formulation book

Pharmaceutical laws, no claims like

”keeps/prevents/cures something” (p.4)
-table p.5

All cosmetic products need to be temperature resistant and stable over a long period of time.
Use of preservatives, pH regulators, chelating agents, and antioxi- dants needs to be
investigated. Stability must be checked for changes in color, smell, and viscosity. Antiseptic
effects must last long, and secondary pollution after open- ing the pack also needs to be
prevented.

Vegetable oils and fats are especially prone to oxidization and changes in color by light, oxygen,
and heat because the alkyl group has unsaturated fatty acids, which have a double bond(s)
prone to oxidization.

Search: linoleic acid,

Care should be taken in using natural fats and acids that have linoleic acid and large iodine
num- bers, and it is recommended to lower the pH or add antioxidants such as vitamin E and
lecithin.
Oils and fats that contain lauric acid and/or myristic acid, which have short alkyl chains, give a
light touch. Solid fats that contain large amounts of palmitic acid and/ or stearic acid reduce
lubrication. Liquid oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid, give a moisturized
feeling. Table 2.2 lists representative vegetable and animal oils and fats.
It is easy to understand the properties of the vegetable and animal oils and fats, which helps
designing cosmetics formulations, by classifying them by the length of the saturated alkyl
chains, iodine number and the distributions (and contents) of unsaturated acids, such as oleic,
linoleic and linolenic acids.

2.1.2.4 Vegetable Oils and Fats Rich in Lauric Acid

Coconut and palm kernel oils contain approximately 50% lauric acid. They are prone to
producing a unique sweet smell, and the stability should be confirmed before use. Solid oils give
a light and dry feeling but are not widely used.

2.1.2.8 Vegetable Oils and Fats Containing Oleic and Steric Acids
A typical fat of this group is shear butter. It contains 65% oleic acid and 20% stearic acid. It
gives a moisturized and relatively heavy touch. Due to its small iodine num- ber, it is stable
against oxidization. It is useful for giving a moderate moisturized feeling to skincare and hair
care products.
**********

Creams

Oily components:
- carbohydrates
- Esters
- Higher alcohols
^squalane, paraffin, petrolatum, coconut oil, shea butter
^esters: isopropyl myristate, “ palmitate, butyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, cetyl
lactate
^higher alcohol: behenyl alcohol

Non ionic surfactants & fatty acids

- mainly used to emulsify the oily comp
FATTY ACIDS
: lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic, stearic,
: check table for ref, ingredients to combine ****
SURFACTANTS
Anionic surfactant shampoos body soaps and facial cleansers
: myristyl, stearyl, cetyl, oleyl lipophilic groups
Longer alkyl groups are less water affinitive and more affinitive to oily ingredients, C16-18
SLS
Nonionic surfactant

Nonionic surfactants that have lipophilic groups of C12–C18 are mainly used as emulsifiers.
Those that consist of a small number of carbons are used for other special purposes. Most
common hydrophilic groups are glycerin and polyethylene. The hydrophilic group can also be
sorbitan, sorbitol, glucose and combinations of glycerin, polyethylene glycol, and polypropylene
glycol. The bond between the lipophilic and hydrophilic groups is either ester or ether bond.

Polymers
- to stabilize the form
Polyhydric alcohols
- for moisturizing

Alkalis
- combined to neutralize fatty acids

(Silicone)
- dimethicone, cyclomethicone

**********