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$6.

95 DISPLAY UNTIL AUGUST 31, 2016


CONTENTS

GET YOUR BEARINGS


8 CALIFORNIA MAP

10 EDITOR’S NOTE

12 DISCOVER
California Dreaming

14 HISTORY
A Place for Starting Over

DISCOVER THE GOLDEN STATE


18 CITIES 54 ROAD TRIPS
Surprising Cities Get Behind the Wheel and Go

22 FAMILY FUN 58 STATE & NATIONAL PARKS


Golden State Fun Stay and Play

26 THEME PARKS 62 ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS


Fun for All Building in Harmony

30 CUISINE 65 GOLF
ON THE COVER
Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco
The Dining Scene Golden Glow to California’s Golf Courses
Photo: Luciano Mortula/Shutterstock

34 WINE COUNTRY 68 SUMMER SPORTS


Fruit of the Vine Fun in the Sun

40 MUSEUMS & ART 72 WINTER SPORTS


Celebrating the Human Spirit A Grand Season for Play

43 PERFORMING ARTS 74 SHOPPING


Encore! Encore! Shopping Paradise

46 MOVIES 78 SPAS & WELLNESS


Shooting on Location Treat Yourself to the Ultimate Escape

50 RAILWAY JOURNEYS 82 CASINOS Point Vicente Lighthouse,


Hear My Train a Comin’ High Rolling Ranchos Palos Verdes, top

6 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
22

EXPLORE CALIFORNIA’S TOURISM REGIONS


86 LOS ANGELES COUNTY
92 West Hollywood
94 Redondo Beach
96 LA Waterfront

98 ORANGE COUNTY
102 Huntington Beach FIND USEFUL INFORMATION
104 Laguna Beach
106 Costa Mesa
183 RESOURCES
GENERAL INFORMATION
108 SAN DIEGO COUNTY CALIFORNIA WELCOME CENTERS
114 San Diego Zoo & Safari Park
QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE TO TRAVEL
116 SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAUS
120 San Francisco HOLIDAYS
122 Berkeley CLIMATE/TEMPERATURES
124 Healdsburg MEDICAL CARE & TRAVEL INSURANCE
DRIVING REGULATIONS
126 SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY
RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED
130 Santa Clara
AIR DISTANCES BETWEEN SELECTED CITIES
134 MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR DRIVING DISTANCES
139 Gilroy NATIONAL PARKS & HISTORIC SITES
140 Monterey County HOTELS, RESORTS & INNS
AIRPORTS
142 CENTRAL COAST
TRANSPORTATION
146 Ventura
148 Pismo Beach CAR & RV RENTALS
ART MUSEUMS
JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK; RON BERG; MEUNIERD/SHUTTERSTOCK

150 NORTH COAST THEME PARKS

155 SHASTA CASCADE

160 HIGH SIERRA


164 Lake Tahoe South Shore

168 GOLD COUNTRY

172 CENTRAL VALLEY

176 DESERTS

180 INLAND EMPIRE

15
201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 7
199 Tulelake
Dorris
Willow Ranch
Fort Dick
96

Klamath R.
139
Yreka Montague
Clear Creek
Crescent City Del Norte
Bray Modoc Lake City
Siskiyou
Hackamore
Klamath 299

299
Alturas
Etna
Weed

Orleans Mount Shasta


Callahan
Orick 3
89 Likely
96 Dunsmuir

Cecilville

Trinidad Sacramento R.
299
Nubieber

SHASTA
CASCADE
Lamoine
139
Termo
Eureka Arcata
Blue Lake
299
Trinity 299
89
Hat Creek
Humboldt
Lassen
Big Bar Weaverville
Shasta Lake
395
Shasta
Fortuna 44

Ferndale Redding 44

3 44
273
Rio Dell 89
36
Anderson Susanville
Platina Mineral 36

36
Blocksburg 36 Westwood
Honeydew
Eel R.

89 Milford
Red Bluff
Taylorsville
Te h a m a
Whitethorn 5
32

Corning Quincy
Plumas
THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA
NORTH
208
Leggett
Paskenta
99
70
70

Portola GOLD
has 58 counties, whose
101
Orland Paradise 49
Dos Rios

COUNTRY
89
32
Chico

COAST 1
Glenn Willows Butte
Downieville
Sierra
Loyalton

Fort Bragg

20
Willits Biggs 70
Oroville
49

Nevada
89

boundaries are shown on


Gridley Truckee
Mendocino 80

this map. The state’s


Live Oak Yu b a
Colusa 45
20 Colusa Nevada City
Lake Grass Valley
Ukiah Williams Sutter
Elk Lake
Yuba City Marysville Tahoe
128 Placer
253

tourism regions sometimes


Sacram

Wheatland Colfax
Lakeport
ento

49
R.

70
Clearlake 113

Point Arena
128
29
16
Lincoln Auburn
South Lake
Tahoe
spill over several counties
El Dorado
1
Cloverdale Yo l o Rocklin 50
Roseville 49

Sonoma Placerville
Folsom Markleeville

Sacramento
89

Windsor
Calistoga
Napa
Woodland

Davis 80
88
Coleville HIGH SIERRA and in some places jump
Santa Rosa Saint Helena
Dixon
16 Amador
Alpine

Sacramento Sutter Creek 4


Sebastopol Rohnert Park Vacaville Ione 182

borders to include portions


108
Jackson
Napa 5 88
Calaveras
395
1 Galt

SAN FRANCISCO
160
Bridgeport
Petaluma Fairfield San Andreas
12 49 Tuolumne
Solano
Novato 37

of counties. The colored sec-


Lodi
Marin Vallejo Rio Vista
Angels City

BAY AREA
167

San Rafael Martinez San Joaquin Sonora Tuolumne City


Concord Lee Vining
Berkeley Stockton 120

tions on the map show


120
Contra
Costa Lathrop
Oakland
San Francisco Manteca
99 Ripon
120
Yosemite Village Mono
San Francisco Oakdale
Alameda
Riverbank
Daly City
Modesto
where these regions are.
Livermore Waterford 49 140

92
Hayward 132
Mammoth Lakes
Mariposa

San Mateo Alameda


Stanislaus 6

Redwood City Fremont Turlock Mariposa Madera


Milpitas Patterson

Sunnyvale Livingston 99 Atwater


140

Santa Clara San Jose Newman


Merced
Coarsegold
Bishop
168
Lakeshore
San Mateo
1

SAN JOSE Santa Cruz


Los Gatos
Morgan Hill

Santa Clara Los Banos


Merced
Chowchilla 41
168

Fresno

& SILICON VALLEY


152 395

Capitola Gilroy Dos Palos


Madera
Santa Cruz Trimmer
33
Watsonville Hollister

DESERTS
99
Firebaugh 41
Independence
Fresno Clovis
Kings
Mendota 180
R.
Marina Salinas Sanger Owenyo Inyo

Monterey Seaside
25
San Benito
San Joaquin
Parlier Reedley
245
33
Selma 136
Gonzales Dinuba
Kingsburg 198

MONTEREY BAY Soledad

Greenfield
145

Hanford Visalia
Woodlake

Cartago
190
190
Death Valley
190

& BIG SUR


Lemoore 198
Big Sur 43 Exeter
Tulare
King City Huron Tulare Lindsay
1 127
Coalinga Haiwee
41
198 33 Corcoran
Porterville 178

Monterey
Avenal Johnsondale
101 Shoshone
99

Kings Tecopa

Delano Searles Valley 127


5
1
McFarland 178
San Simeon 46
65
El Paso de Robles Wasco Mountain Mesa
41 Ridgecrest
33

CENTRAL Morro Bay


41
Atascadero

San Luis Obispo 58


Buttonwillow
Shafter
43
99

Bakersfield
Kern R.
178

Saltdale C a l i f o r n i a
15

VALLEY San Luis Obispo


227
119

99
58

Arvin
Kern

14 California City
Cima

Arroyo Grande Tehachapi


Taft
Grover Beach
Maricopa
Afton
1 58

Santa Maria 166


Boron
33 58
Guadalupe Barstow San Bernardino

Santa Barbara Frazier Park Needles


101 14
138
Helendale Essex
Lancaster Ludlow

CENTRAL
40
Lake Hughes
247
Lompoc 15
Solvang Adelanto Bagdad
33 Ve n t u r a
Buellton Apple Valley

COAST 1

Santa Barbara
Fillmore
Palmdale

Santa Clarita
Los Angeles 138
Victorville 18

Chubbuck
Lake
Havasu

Santa Paula Hesperia 247

118 Simi Valley


Big Bear Lake

o R.
San Buenaventura Oxnard La Canada Flintridge

orad
Col
Glendale Pasadena San Bernardino
Yucca
Thousand Oaks Agoura Hills Fontana
30 Valley 62
Twentynine Palms Rice
1
Los Angeles 62

Riverside 62
Desert Hot Springs
177

Moreno Valley
Torrance Anaheim Corona Palm Springs Riverside

LOS ANGELES
Palos Verdes Estates
Santa Ana Hemet Cathedral City
Indio Desert Center
Long Beach Irvine Palm Desert
Lake Elsinore

COUNTY Orange 10
Blythe
Huntington Beach Costa Mesa 74

Laguna Niguel
371
1

Oasis

5 79 78
Avalon 111

ORANGE Oceanside Vista


San Diego
Borrego Springs

86
Salton
Sea
Imperial

COUNTY Carlsbad

Encinitas
78
San Marcos

Escondido
15 Westmorland
Calipatria

Poway Brawley Imperial


79 78
Reservoir

Santee Imperial
Holtville
El Cajon El Centro
San Diego Lemon Grove 8 Calexico
98
Coronado Chula Vista

SAN DIEGO Imperial Beach

COUNTY INLAND
EMPIRE

BEST BEACHSIDE DINING Innumerable fine watering holes dot


California’s famous coastal Highway 1, but take a diversion when you
reach San Francisco to head to the Beach Chalet on the Great
INSIDER’S Highway at Ocean Beach. One of the city’s first brewpubs, the
BEACHCHALET.COM

restaurant sits atop a San Francisco history museum with WPA


» TIP murals from the 1930s on the walls, is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week and has
a menu ranging from burgers to seafood to prime rib. In addition, out back facing Golden Gate Park is
sister restaurant the Park Chalet. With the Pacific or the park as your options, you can’t go wrong.

8 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
EDITOR’S NOTE 2016 TRAVEL GUIDE TO

CALIFORNIA
PRESIDENT & GROUP Joseph P. Turkel
PUBLISHER

EDITOR Larry Habegger

You Don’t EXECUTIVE EDITOR Judi Scharf

Have to Go Far ART DIRECTOR

WRITERS
Mark Tzerelshtein

David Armstrong
Christopher P. Baker
Sometimes when I look out over San Francisco Bay from my perch on Tele- Susan Brady (Resources)
Laura Del Rosso
graph Hill, I forget that the sweeping Pacific Ocean is at my back, just a few Christine Delsol
Bill Fink
miles away over the hilly, city-covered terrain. It can be like that in our busy
John Flinn
lives, when we focus so much on the task at hand that we forget the grand Don George
Marcy Gordon
scope of our time here on this earth. Jeff Greenwald
Luckily for me, it doesn’t take a lot to regain my bearings. I can make my Lenore Greiner
Robert Kaufman
way out to Ocean Beach to contemplate infinity, watch the waves wash in at Maribeth Mellin
Laura Ness
the nearby ruins of the Sutro Baths, take a hike in what feels like wilderness
Jill K. Robinson
in the city at Lands End, a woodsy, mile-and-a-half trail with spectacular Michael Shapiro
Bonnie Smetts
views of the sea from the cliffs at every turn. Lavinia Spalding
If I venture a little farther I can cross the Golden Gate Bridge to the Marin Matt Villano
Laurie Weed
Headlands, where dozens of miles of trails await with equally breathtaking Jacqueline Yau

views. In less than 30 minutes from my house in the busy city I can be reviving CIRCULATION Julia Wall
my spirits in the open outdoors. Truly, you don’t have to go far to rejuvenate MANAGER

yourself here. DIRECTOR OF FINANCE Gloria Mungo


California is a big state, but this notion that you don’t have to go far holds
ACCOUNT MANAGERS Collier C. Granberry
true statewide. If your pleasure is wine tasting, you’ll find it almost every- Dexter Taylor
Joe Turkel
where. Fine dining? Same story. Surfing, kayaking, swimming, boogie
boarding, paddle boarding? There are 840 miles of coastline here with some CALIFORNIA OFFICE 1288 Columbus Ave., Suite 292
San Francisco, CA 94133
of the world’s best beaches. Opera, art, theater, music, film, sports? You name
it, it’s all here, and easy to find. TEL: 1-888-700-4464 • FAX: 416-497-0871
E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com
Does escaping into truly magnificent landscape away from the cities appeal californiatravelguide.travel

to you? That’s a breeze. We have easy access to the ancient natural world of The Travel Guide to California is published by
the giant sequoias, Death Valley National Park, Lake Tahoe and Yosemite Globelite Travel Marketing Inc., a leading
lifestyle media company and publisher of
National Park, the stunning volcanic peak of Mount Shasta. The Travel Guides to Canada, The Travel Guide to
Florida, The Travel Guide to California, and
We also have access to all that’s new, in technology, architecture, design,
Dreamscapes Travel and Lifestyle Magazine.
resorts and spas. How about golf? You won’t find a better collection of golf
CANADIAN OFFICE Globelite Travel Marketing Inc.
courses anywhere. 3 Bluffwood Drive
When it’s time to rejuvenate, just get yourself to California. Once here, Toronto, Ontario
M2H 3L4
you’ll quickly learn that you don’t have to go far to find what restores your TEL: 416-497-5353, 1-888-700-4464
FAX: 416-497-0871
energy and feeds your soul. And makes you happy, of course.
E-MAIL: tigc@rogers.com
In these pages we help you get ready, with profiles of the state’s main californiatravelguide.travel

tourism regions, essays on history, cuisine, museums, theme parks and many No part of this publication can be reproduced or
other topics, plus resource pages with information on visitors bureaus, duplicated without the written permission of
Globelite Travel Marketing Inc. The opinions in this
driving distances, average temperatures, California Welcome Centers and magazine are those of the writers and do not
necessarily reflect the views of Globelite Travel
much more.
Marketing Inc. Publications Mail Agreement
As you make your plans for a trip to the Golden State, you’ll have a lot to 40047932. Contents © copyright 2016

look forward to. California offers a profound richness of experience all within
ÉRNE Mc CABE

Printed in Canada
easy reach, and once you’re here, I’m sure you’ll quickly regain your bearings. ISSN 1926-304X (Print)
ISSN 1927-7245 (Online)

—L A R RY H A B EG G E R , Editor

10 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
DISCOVER
BY DON GEORGE

California Dreaming
The Golden State is a special place with a world’s worth of experiences to be savored

PACIFIC OCEAN
The world’s largest ocean, the fabled
Pacific, embraces California’s entire
western boundary. It’s a place to dream, THE SEDUCTIVE STATE OF CALIFORNIA For boaters, birders and fishermen,
to ponder life’s possibilities and endless is large in every sense of the word. It’s the there’s Lake Shasta, home to an abundance
mysteries, and a place to play. Surfers most populous state in the U.S. and the third of fish and fowl. For whitewater fans, more
ride the sea’s prodigious waves; sailors largest in terms of geographical size. Its than a dozen rivers, including the mighty
ply her waters; boogie boarders and economy ranks eighth in the entire world. American and Sacramento, provide
body surfers splash in her surf; When it comes to visitor attractions, Cali- thrilling rides. Kayakers and canoers find
kayakers explore her coves and shore fornia presents travelers with as wide a range paradise in Point Reyes National Seashore
breaks; children of all ages wade in her of riches as many countries. Whether you’re in the north and watery wonders at Morro
froth and comb her beaches. Life passionate about natural activities, cultural Bay on the central coast.
happens on the edge of the Pacific, pursuits or dining and wining, the Golden In the southern part of the state, visitors
where the sun shines, and sets in State has diverse delights to entice you. savor the sere splendors of the Mojave
ethereal colors. Desert and Death Valley, the lowest point
Outdoor Adventurer in North America, 282 feet below sea level.
If you’re a nature lover and active adven- If tide pooling tempts you, Shaw’s Cove
turer, you’ll be dazzled by the state’s tide pools in the Laguna Beach State
spectacular spectrum. On the western edge Marine Reserve and the Terranea tide
there’s the Pacific Ocean, the largest body pools in the Point Vicente State Marine
of water in the world, perfect for surfing, Conservation Area in Rancho Palos Verdes
sailing and swimming. In the east there are showcase sea anemones, crabs, urchins,
the magnificent mountains of the Sierra sea slugs, sea stars and more. The five
Nevada, a haven for skiers and snow- islands of Channel Islands National Park,
boarders in winter and hikers and accessible only by boat or plane from Ven-
bicyclists in summer. This region is home tura and Oxnard, provide a peaceful,
to Mount Whitney, the tallest mountain in pristine home for more than 2,000 plant
the “Lower 48” and a mecca for climbers, and animal species, including 145 found
WELCOMIA/SHUTTERSTOCK

topping off at 14,505 feet. Among Cali- nowhere else on the planet.
fornia’s most moving experiences are
walking through the natural cathedral of Cultural Connoisseur
Muir Woods and camping in the granite If you love culture, you’ll find a treasure
grandeur of Yosemite National Park. trove of activities in the Golden State, from

12 2 0 1 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
museum and art gallery exhibitions to From the Siskiyou County Museum in even offer travelers the chance to stay and
shops showcasing contemporary handi- Yreka to the San Diego Museum of Art, work, which reveals from the inside the rites
crafts and timeworn antiques, and from museums and galleries celebrating his- and rhythms of modern farm life.
performances of theater, dance and music tory, human endeavor and artistic heritage California is the birthplace of California
to displays at aquariums and hands-on abound throughout the state. Creative cuisine, of course, a culinary revolution
education centers. exploring will yield access to small-scale spearheaded by Berkeley’s Alice Waters—
For music, the world-class concert halls of museums that specialize in everything whose Chez Panisse is still serving
Los Angeles and San Francisco are well- from comics and cable cars to surfing and extraordinary food 45 years after it opened.
known, but equally appealing are smaller sewing. Other outstanding educational That revolution has spawned numerous
sites such as the Redlands Bowl in the Inland institutions that focus on interactive other channels of creative culinary freshness
Empire city of Redlands, where an elegant experiences include the Monterey Bay and fusion, blending Asian, European and
amphitheater spotlights California’s oldest Aquarium, the California Academy of Sci- Latin American ingredients and traditions,
free concert series, presenting everything ences and the Exploratorium. which are showcased throughout the state.
from classical music to bluegrass bands each As Alice Waters and her followers focused
summer, or the Joan and Sanford I. Weill Hall Food Aficionado attention on local purveyors, food-related
on the California State University Sonoma For food aficionados, California is a wonder- opportunities for travelers expanded. One
campus, where warm-weather concert-goers land of tastes, textures and innovative result today is the California Cheese Trail,
can spread a blanket on the terraced lawn for culinary creations. One of the most which connects artisanal cheese makers in
an alfresco music fest. delightful and enlightening experiences is Sonoma County, from Point Reyes and
A lively variety of performances, visiting a farmers market, where fresh- Bodega to Santa Rosa and Sonoma.
including ballet, theater, variety shows, from-the-farm produce will be on delicious Wine trails have long drawn travelers to
comedy and even onstage conversations, display and fresh-from-the-field farmers California, but these have expanded as
are presented at Oakland’s  ornately Art will be happy to offer samples and stories. well in recent years. In addition to world-
Deco Paramount Theater. Another multi- Farmers markets can now be found renowned regions such as Napa and
faceted venue lovingly restored to its throughout the state. As a further outgrowth Sonoma, up-and-coming areas that offer
former glory is Fresno’s Warnors Center for of the popularity of these markets, more and their own winery routes include Liver-
the Performing Arts, listed on the National more farms are now offering visitors the more, Paso Robles, Madera and Temecula.
Register of  Historic Places  and distin- opportunity to pay to pick their own straw- Whatever interest has drawn you to Cal-
guished by a pipe organ that replicates the berries, peaches or plums and savor the ifornia, you’ll find almost infinite reasons
sound of a full orchestra. sweetness of just-plucked fruit. Some farms to be seduced and stay.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 13
HISTORY BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

A Place for Starting Over


Innovation and starting fresh are embedded in California’s cultural DNA

NATALIA BRATSLAVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MEUNIERD/SHUTTERSTOCK; RADOSLAW LECYK/SHUTTERSTOCK; BLUEBEAT76/SHUTTERSTOCK; MEUNIERD/SHUTTERSTOCK


MISSION BASILICA
SAN DIEGO DE ALCALÁ
The first of the 21 California missions,
Mission San Diego de Alcalá was founded
The Spanish Franciscan friar blessing an California is the “America” of America.
in 1769 by Father Junipero Serra, the
Franciscan friar who was canonized in adobe church at Mission Basilica San Diego This was so even in pre-history, when the
2015 by Pope Francis. Today, the mission de Alcalá in 1769; the Chilean miner trying first migrants from Asia crossed the land
remains an active parish church and his luck panning for gold in a cold Sierra bridge between Siberia and Alaska, hung a
cultural center for people of all faiths.
cataract in 1849; the Chinese laborer right, walked southward, found pastures of
Among other things, California’s first
crossing the heaving Pacific to work on the plenty, rich marine life and heart-stop-
olives were cultivated here.
transcontinental railroad in 1869; the pingly beautiful mountains and either
African American leaving the South to decided to keep walking or stop right
build warships on the Oakland waterfront where they were.
in 1942; the Haight-Ashbury hippie with The place wasn’t called California then,
her wakeful dreaming in San Francisco’s of course. That came later, the name taken
Summer of Love in 1967; the Indian engi- from a 16th-century Spanish novel and used
neer launching a high-tech startup in Palo by explorers, soldiers and missionaries,
Alto in 2016, all have something in who were themselves starting over in the
common: starting over. New World. The Spanish built 21 Roman
The United States is said to be a place Catholic missions, from San Diego in the
where the world comes to begin again—to south to Sonoma in the north, from 1769 to
reinvent itself, in the current coinage. If so, 1823. In converting native communities to

14 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
3000 BC: THE PLANET’S OLDEST LIVING TREES, bristlecone pines, are found at high
elevations in eastern California’s rugged Inyo National Forest. Long thought to be
» WORLD'S
OLDEST
the oldest individual tree, the aptly named bristlecone pine Methuselah, is
reckoned to be 4,800 years old. In 2012, another bristlecone pine was found that is
TREES even older—nearly 5,100 years old.

Christianity, the newcomers overwhelmed


native cultures. Of necessity, the Native Ameri-
cans started over in a bewildering new world.
In 1821, Mexico, with its remote northern-
most province, Alta California, wrenched itself
free of the Spanish Empire. In 1833, the mis-
sions were secularized by the Mexican
government and abandoned. Their buildings
moldered, their pioneering vineyards and olive
groves were eventually overgrown and for- THE DOLORES DEL RIO
gotten. Not until the 20th century were the mural on Hollywood Boulevard
missions restored and revived. Many flourish depicts the movie star from the
today as redoubts of history and contemporary 1920s and 1930s, above; she was
one of the most important
worship, handsome, evocative reminders of the
female figures of the Golden
first major European presence. Age of Mexican cinema;
buildings at the ghost town of
The Gold Rush Bodie State Park, right; radio
Alta California grew slowly in its isolation. That station inside Alcatraz
Penitentiary and Alcatraz Island
changed on January 24, 1848, with the discovery
in San Francisco, below.
of gold on the American River. The California
Gold Rush, beginning in earnest in 1849, gave for-
tune-seekers a second—some said a last—chance
to make good. Half-a-million newcomers—many
from Europe, Asia, Latin America and Africa—
globalized California in a hurry. The Mexican
descendants of Spanish settlers—the Californios,
with their sprawling ranchos and lives attuned to
the slow turning of the seasons—were swept
aside, left to start over.
Many 49ers stayed on and found another kind
of gold: richly productive new lives in a place
where beginning afresh—personally, financially,
even spiritually—was already a common rite of
passage. In 1850, pried loose by the U.S. victory
in the Mexican War and accelerated by the Gold
Rush, California became the 31st state of the
United States. New Californians brought the new
Golden State into being, plowing its fields,
founding its great universities, building its cities.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 15
HISTORY
California’s lustrous reputation was tar- begin anew, lent the movies an Old World
nished on the morning of April 18, 1906, artistic sensibility.
when a massive earthquake rocked California’s story since World War II has
Northern California and leveled much of featured growth and more growth. Com-
San Francisco; what the rolling, rumbling bined with in-country migration, global
ground didn’t knock down, the ensuing immigration made California the most
firestorm burned down. Some 3,000 people populous state in the Union in 1962.
died. Now, it was San Francisco’s turn to
start over. San Francisco dramatized its A Center for Change
recovery, and celebrated the new Panama From the 1960s on, California has been, in
Canal linking the Atlantic and the Pacific, a positive sense, the most disruptive state
with the splendidly showy Panama-Pacific in the nation. Student political activism,
International Exposition of 1915. the hip counter-culture and early awaken-
WHOLE EARTH CATALOG, ings of the New Age movement found
symbol of California innovation,
The Rise of Hollywood fertile ground in California. The in-season,
above; the Hollywood sign on
Just two years after that optimistic dis- sustainable, slow-food movement arguably
Mount Lee in the Hollywood Hills
play, the nation plunged into World War I. took root fastest in California. American
area of Los Angeles, below.
After the war ended in 1918, still more environmentalism in large part began in
migrants rushed to California. In 1920, California, when Scottish immigrant John
Los Angeles (and much later San Diego Muir founded the Sierra Club in San Fran-
and San Jose) surged past San Francisco in cisco back in 1892 and took President
population. The orange groves and dusty Theodore Roosevelt camping amid the nat-
byways of old Los Angeles began mor- ural wonders of Yosemite Valley in 1903.
phing into “LA”—more specifically, and From the 1980s on, Silicon Valley has
more mythically, “Hollywood.” joined Hollywood as a creative lodestar for
Actors, writers, directors and producers the whole planet. In the present decade, Sil-
streamed to Los Angeles, growing a quiet icon Valley reached northward, dramatically
cottage industry of silent motion pictures transforming the economy and even the cul-
into a technologically advanced business. ture of San Francisco. The high-technology
Stars were born in a place that came to be world has enshrined risk-taking, innova-
called “the dream factory.” Not a few of the tion, learning from failure and—you
Dust Bowl migrants who left the drought- guessed it—starting over. Quoting another
stricken Midwest for California in the California innovation, the 1960s Whole Earth
1930s got their first impressions of their Catalog, Apple’s Steve Jobs urged Stanford
new home from the dream-weavers of University graduates in a commencement
Hollywood. In the 1940s, creative people speech in 2005 to “stay hungry, stay foolish.”
from Europe such as Billy Wilder and Californians, across centuries and cul-
Thomas Mann, fleeing fascism and war to tures, always have.

THE FORTUNE COOKIE, commonly believed to come from


China, actually comes from California. While there are
1914:
» competing creation myths, the most widely accepted version
TURTIX/SHUTTERSTOCK

FORTUNE credits the invention of the fortune cookie to Japanese American


landscape designer Makoto Hagiwawa. He created the sweet treat with
COOKIES a written fortune tucked inside while working at San Francisco’s Japanese Tea
Garden, still a favorite of visitors and locals, in Golden Gate Park, back in 1914.

16 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
CITIES BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Surprising Cities
California’s smaller towns have plenty of urban delights

California’s golden cities—Los Angeles, Dah Parade. Some 800 restored early 20th-
San Francisco, San Diego—are celebrated century wooden bungalows, clustered in
around the world, and rightly so. But the the Bungalow Heaven Historic District,
PASADENA Golden State has an engaging range of give Pasadena a signature architectural
One of Los Angeles County’s more things to see and do in less-well-known look. Shopping and dining are abundant
vibrant cities, Pasadena was a tourist locales, as well. In cities ranging in size along pedestrian-friendly South Lake
destination drawing visitors from
from 11,000 inhabitants to 470,000, a sur- Avenue, in the Playhouse District and in
JAMIE PHAM. OPPOSITE: RYAN FORBES/AVABLU; LONG BEACH CVB
the eastern U.S. as far back as the
1880s. In 1886, the first of many great prising, eclectic menu of food and drink, revived, 22-block Old Pasadena. The
hotels here, the Raymond, was built art and architecture, history and sports is Huntington combines a distinguished
atop Bacon Hill, which was later available to visitors. library complete with a Gutenberg Bible,
renamed Raymond Hill when the centuries of priceless fine-art pieces and
hotel was completed.
PASADENA: Rose Bowl & Bungalows extensive and beautiful botanical gar-
Located 10 miles northeast of Los Angeles dens all in one place.
at the foot of the imposing San Gabriel
Mountains, this pretty city of 140,000 is WEST HOLLYWOOD: Creative City
best-known for the Granddaddy of ’em West Hollywood, population 35,000, pro-
All: the annual Rose Bowl football game, vides style and spark to sprawling Greater
its ever-popular Tournament of Roses Los Angeles well out of proportion to its
Parade and delightful parody the Doo- size. Vibrant “WeHo,’’ bounded on the east

18 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
DESIGN DISTRICT, left, and
Sunset Boulevard in West
Hollywood, below; Long
Beach skyline, bottom.

by Hollywood and the west by Beverly Hills, Halloween Carnival is a huge and hugely has been permanently anchored there.
is Greater LA’s gay village, with about one- popular party. An influx of Russian Jews Now a hotel and meetings venue, the
third of residents identifying as lesbian, late last century from the disintegrating Queen Mary is linked on-land by the Pass-
gay, bisexual or transgender (LGBT). Within Soviet Union adds to West Hollywood’s cos- port shuttle bus to the Aquarium of the
its tightly packed 1.9 square miles is mopolitan character. Pacific, Long Beach Convention and Enter-
western Sunset Boulevard, aka the Sunset tainment Center and other sites. The arts
Strip, with its famous music venues, LONG BEACH: As Seen in the Movies are served by the Museum of Latin Amer-
among them the Troubadour, Viper Room A frequent stand-in for national and global ican Art, the Long Beach Playhouse and a
and Whisky a Go Go. The city also boasts locations in television, video and film lively street-art scene. Aquatic sports and
hip hotels such as the Mondrian, Andaz shoots, Long Beach is very much itself. beach volleyball thrive in the sunny cli-
and the Sunset Marquis. Classic retro Art Boasting 5.5 miles of sandy beaches, the mate. Moreover, a wide range of dining
Deco and Spanish Revival apartment build- city of 470,000 some 20 miles southwest options abounds, thanks to the city’s multi-
ings dot swathes of the city, while western of downtown Los Angeles is home to a ethnic make-up, which embraces white
Melrose Avenue is abuzz with restaurants, major ocean cargo port and an outpost of and black residents, Hispanics, Pacific
shops, antique and furniture stores and the aircraft manufacturer Boeing. Since 1967, Islanders, and Asians, notably Cambo-
nearby Pacific Design Center. The annual the 1930s Art Deco ocean liner Queen Mary dians and Filipinos.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 19
CITIES
LA JOLLA CLIFFS, below; statue of Father
Junipero Serra, downtown Ventura, right;
Sundial bridge at Turtle Bay, Redding,
opposite top; Sebastiani Theatre in Sonoma,
opposite bottom.

LA JOLLA: Mediterranean Haven VENTURA: Classic Beach Town year-round to splendid, rugged off-shore
La Jolla is an engaging city-within-a-city. Under-the-radar Ventura city, the county isles, churning past leaping dolphins and
The community of 43,000 on the coast 15 seat of agricultural Ventura County, is a spouting migratory whales.
miles north of downtown San Diego is classic Southern California beach town,
actually part of San Diego. Yet the affluent with surprising twists. Located a few min- BERKELEY: The Arts and More
enclave, known for beach life, dining, utes south of Santa Barbara and an hour’s Long famed for its commitment to brainiac
shopping and the scientific prowess of the drive north of Los Angeles, the Ventura inquiry, Berkeley, on the eastern shores of San
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, the Beach section is popular with surfers, Francisco Bay, doubles as a richly diverse
Salk Institute and others, has its own zip paddle boarders, joggers, sailors and sun- travel destination. The college town of
code, and physical mail addressed to “La worshippers. Walking distance from the 120,000 boasts unique shops and restaurants
Jolla” is routinely delivered. Downtown La sands, Ventura city’s fast-reviving down- along Fourth Street in west Berkeley, and
Jolla along Prospect Avenue is a nexus of town boasts a mix of restaurants, shops and shopping, theater, music and movie-going
upscale shopping. Torrey Pines State wine bars along Main Street, including the downtown on and off south Shattuck Avenue.
Reserve is a rugged, 2,000-acre nature pre- massive, multi-level restaurant and music The expansive University of California
serve with 8 miles of trails. Torrey Pines venue Watermark. The Beaux-Arts 1912 City campus includes first-rate entertainment
Golf Course, with high-end Torrey Pines Hall is an impressive sight on its downtown venues and athletic contests ranging from
Lodge, is home every January to the PGA hilltop; Erle Stanley Gardener, creator of the intercollegiate football and basketball to pop-
event the Farmers Insurance Open. This fictional courtroom wizard Perry Mason, ular niche sports such as men’s and women’s
seaside community, with a mild, year- practiced law just down the hill. The out- rugby, played at jewel box Witter Field. The
round Mediterranean climate, is also a door apparel company Patagonia showcases Gourmet Ghetto, with classic California-
haven for sunbathing, surfing and swim- its world headquarters store in a renovated American restaurant Chez Panisse, the
ming. Black’s Beach is a popular heritage building on West Santa Clara Street. original 1966 Peet’s Coffee & Tea shop and
clothing-optional destination. The arts are At the city’s bustling marina, the Channel many more, is arrayed on and around north
alive here, too, especially at the renowned Islands National Park visitor center Shattuck Avenue. The Elmwood neighbor-
La Jolla Playhouse, on the University of Cal- dispenses useful information. Park Conces- hood along College Avenue offers visitors and
ifornia San Diego campus. sionaire Island Packers operates ferry runs locals a relaxed village ambience.

20 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SONOMA: More than Wine
Laid out around a traditional Mexican
plaza flanked with heritage buildings, this
city of 11,000, an hour north of San Fran-
cisco, grew up around Mission San
Francisco Solano. The northernmost and
last of the Roman Catholic missions built
by Franciscan friars along the north-south
spine of California, the 1823 adobe and its
recently revived historic olive groves is
still a focal point of spiritual and cultural REDDING: Recreation Center anchored by the stunning 2004 Sundial
life. Sonoma was home to the 25-day Bear Created by the timber and mining indus- Bridge, a contemporary, cantilivered beauty
Flag Revolt and “Republic of California” of tries, the city of 92,000 in the northern for walkers and cyclists designed by star
1846, an American rising against Mexican reaches of the state has diversified its Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. With
authorities that led to California statehood economy and culture in recent years to more than 300 days of sunshine a year,
in 1850. The plaza is flanked with mid 19th- emerge as a prime travel and tourism des- Redding is foremost an outdoor recreation
century buildings that now comprise tination. Located on Interstate 5 and the spot, but indoor performances are staged
Sonoma State Historic Park. Contemporary Sacramento River south of the Oregon state year-round in the beautifully restored Cas-
Sonoma is a family-friendly getaway and line, Redding takes advantage of its natural cade Theatre, a 997-seat city landmark built
jumping-off point to Sonoma Valley wonders. Nearby attractions include in Art Deco style in 1935.
wineries and the Sonoma County coast. A Mount Shasta and Mount Lassen, Mount
variety of appealing restaurants and one- Lassen Volcanic National Park and Turtle
of-a-kind shops thrive on and near the
plaza, as does the 1933 Sebastiani Theatre
Bay Exploration Park. Together with the
river, these prime natural features offer a » FIND YOUR
CITY FUN
cinema. The Fairmont Sonoma Mission wide range of hiking, biking, paddling and
Inn & Spa is a popular resort hotel. fishing. Turtle Bay Exploration Park is
Pasadena
visitpasadena.com, 800-307-7977

West Hollywood
SHASTA COUNTY; REBECCA GOSSELIN. OPPOSITE: FUTUREGALORE/SHUTTERSTOCK; HECTOR VARGAS

visitwesthollywood.com, 800-368-6020

Long Beach
visitlongbeach.com, 562-436-3645

La Jolla
sandiego.org, 619-232-3101

Ventura
visitventuraca.com, 800-648-2075

Berkeley
visitberkeley.com, 800-847.4823

Sonoma
sonomavalley.com, 866-996-1090
sonomacounty.com, 800-576-6662

Redding
visitredding.com, 800-874-7562

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 21
FAMILY FUN BY JILL K. ROBINSON

Golden State Fun


Family adventures, big and small

CALIFORNIA’S
BEACHES
Up and down the state, the sea
draws people of all ages to play in
On a map, California looks huge, but less wild wonders, and more than 840
its surf, paddle in its foam and, of
with so much fun for families around miles of coastline all combine to give visi-
course, frolic on its sandy beaches.
From the sunny, warm-water every corner, the state needs all that space tors and locals alike a vast selection of
stretches of Southern California to to ensure that there’s something for places to go outside and play. Start with
the fog-shrouded, cooler climes of everyone—no matter how you define Yosemite National Park, the jewel of the
the north, the beaches are a natural
“fun.” Choose from theme parks for fan- High Sierra. Famous for waterfalls,
playground for all manner of fun,
tasy and wild fun, natural wonders for camping, wildlife and granite monoliths,
whether organized volleyball,
sandcastle competitions or simply pure awe and an escape from civilization, the park is accessible for light experiences
digging with a plastic shovel and historical spots for discovery and educa- as well as serious outdoor activities. Junior
bucket. Bring the kids! tion, and Golden-State landmarks for that Ranger programs are available for eager
special California sparkle. String it all young naturalists.
together, and it’s easy to find that magical From Mount Tamalpais State Park near
combination to fit your family’s require- San Francisco Bay to the giant Anza-Bor-
ments perfectly. rego Desert State Park on the east side of
San Diego County, the state parks cover ter-
Natural Wonders rain from desert to alpine forest. The
California’s 279 state parks and 32 national second-deepest lake in the U.S., Lake Tahoe
parks, monuments and seashores, count- lures visitors to its shores with its ethereal

22 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
REDWOODS NATIONAL PARK hiking, right; Pointe Discovery
fire pit, Terranea Resort, middle; Monterey Bay Aquarium,
bottom; playing on the beach in Santa Barbara, opposite.

blue color no matter the season for water modern day, can be traced at Oakland’s
activities, hiking or winter snow fun. Museum of California.
While wildlife is plentiful in California’s
wild spaces, one place to get a guaranteed Notable Landmarks
close experience is at the Monterey Bay History blends with fun at a wealth of Cali-
Aquarium, which inspires conservation of fornia’s landmarks. Rent bicycles in San
the ocean with its rich collection of ani- Francisco (Blazing Saddles and Bike and Roll
mals and learning opportunities. But don’t are two popular shops) and ride from Fish-
forget to walk on the beach anywhere in erman’s Wharf through Fort Mason, the
the state, as the varied habitats are home to Marina and the Presidio past Crissy Field. All
tide pools, places to explore and play and along the way, you’ll see amazing views of
spy wildlife from migratory birds to ele- the Golden Gate Bridge. But why just look
phant seals and whales. when you can extend your ride and cross it?

Historical Highlights
History is far from boring in California,
and there’s plenty to go around. It’s evident
in the adobe buildings in Monterey, which
still remain in what was once the capital of
Alta California under Spanish and Mexican
rule. The California Gold Rush brought for-
tune seekers and workers from around the
world to Sacramento and the Sierra
foothills, and a handful of attractions—
KRIS WIKTOR/SHUTTERSTOCK; TERRANNEA RESORT; KARLIS DAMBRAN. OPPOSITE: RON BERG

from Sutter’s Fort State Historic Park to the


town of Columbia to the ghost town of
Bodie—bring that exciting era to life.
Built up heavily during the Gold Rush,
the city of San Francisco suffered a devas-
tating earthquake and fire in 1906, and the
curious can experience the sustained
tremors at the California Academy of Sci-
ences. The growth of Los Angeles from
fruit orchards to film powerhouse can be
traced at the Natural History Museum of
Los Angeles. The Tech Museum of Innova-
tion in San Jose celebrates inventive
Silicon Valley, inspiring visitors and letting
them make technological creations of their
own. Above all, the history of the entire
state, from life before the explorers to

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 23
FAMILY FUN

GUIDED TOUR in Griffith


Observatory, Los Angeles, right;
Kidspace Children’s Museum,
Pasadena, above.

» FIND
YOUR FUN
In San Francisco Bay, Alcatraz Island is even has a little bit of Hollywood history
National Parks the site of the first lighthouse and U.S.- with iconic scenes from movies like Rebel
nps.gov
built fort on the West Coast, as well as the Without a Cause. Public programs range
California State Parks noted federal penitentiary. Gardens, tide from planetarium shows to free public tel-
parks.ca.gov
pools, bird colonies and bay views add to escopes. Plan a visit around the monthly
Monterey Bay Aquarium the prison history. The San Francisco Mar- public star party on the lawn and side-
montereybayaquarium.org
itime National Historical Park gives a walks outside the observatory.
California Academy of Sciences glimpse into the days when sailing ships For a different view, look out from the
calacademy.org
were one of the only ways to get to this observatory’s parking lot at the panorama
Natural History Museum region. Commute from there through San of Los Angeles and the Hollywood sign.
of Los Angeles Francisco on the city’s beloved cable cars You can’t visit the sign, but you can see it
nhm.org
(the world’s largest manually operated from a variety of other vantage points in
The Tech Museum of Innovation cable car system) to the San Francisco the area, such as Mulholland Drive and the
thetech.org
Cable Car Museum. intersection of Hollywood and Highland.
Museum of California Combine California beaches with a car- Other viewing areas are accessible by
museumca.org
nival atmosphere at two spots along the hiking trail: the Mount Hollywood trail,
San Francisco Cable Car Museum coast: Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk and the Canyon Boulevard trail, Lake Hollywood
cablecarmuseum.org
KIDSPACE MUSEUM; PHOTOGOLFER/SHUTTERSTOCK

Santa Monica Pier. Whereas the boardwalk trail and Cahuenga Peak.
Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk has two National Historic Landmarks (the
beachboardwalk.com Giant Dipper roller coaster and the Looff Theme Parks
Santa Monica Pier Carousel), the pier has a trapeze school and With a treasure of attractions across the
santamonicapier.org the amusement park juts out above the Golden State, families aren’t limited to tra-

Griffith Observatory ocean. To get the best of coastal family fun, ditional venues like theme parks for fun.
griffithobservatory.org you should really try both. But there’s a reason why they’re popular
Space fans flock to the Griffith Observa- with children of all ages, and California
Hollywood Sign
hollywoodsign.org tory in Los Angeles, one of Southern has plenty of choices. See our Theme Parks
California’s most popular attractions. It article for more information.

24 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
THEME PARKS BY MATT VILLANO

Fun for All


There’s loads of excitement at California’s theme parks

ASIF ISLAM/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: DISCOVER LA; JEREMY THOMPSON/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; RICKY BRIGANTE/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR
AMUSEMENT PARKS Diversions are as plentiful as sunshine lot; this tram remains the best way to
Europeans started the concept of in California. One of the most popular experience stunt demonstrations and
amusement parks centuries ago with outlets: original theme parks. These attrac- staged events (such as an encounter with
fairs and pleasure gardens created for
tions are meccas to amusement, each the shark from Jaws). The official studio
people’s recreation. The world’s oldest
amusement park is Bakken, just
focusing rides and exhibits around dif- tour commemorated its 50th anniversary
north of Copenhagen, Denmark, ferent concepts such as fairies, film, in 2015 with the opening of a brand new
which opened in 1583. The oldest plastic blocks, sea life and an inimitable grand finale dubbed Fast & Furious:
theme park in the United States is mouse. Most of the parks are situated in Supercharged.
Holiday World & Splashin’ Safari
the southern part of the state (where the The rest of the park is divided into two
(called Santa Claus Land from its
opening in 1946 until 1984) in Santa
weather is generally warmer), but the areas connected by escalator: the Upper
Claus, Indiana. California’s theme granddaddy of them all is up north. Each and Lower lots. Transformers: The Ride
parks date from 1950. of the parks is worth a closer look. 3-D is a fan-favorite on the Lower Lot.
On the Upper Lot, Despicable Me Minion
Universal Studios Hollywood Mayhem, a 3-D simulator ride, and Super
This film-themed park got its formal start Silly Fun Land, an outdoor family-friendly
in the 1960s when walk-throughs of Uni- playground, both opened in April 2014.
versal Studios soundstages and sets were The Wizarding World of Happy Potter, a
expanded to include peeks at actual pro- rides-and-shopping attraction based on
duction. Over the years, the studio added the Harry Potter books and movies, will
a tram to shuttle visitors through the back open on the Upper Lot in April.

26 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Children’s Fairyland
Believe it or not, the first theme park in the
U.S. to cater to families with young kids was
Children’s Fairyland, a blink-and-you’ll-
miss-it theme park on the shores of Lake
Merritt in Oakland. The place opened in 1950
(original admission started between 9 and 14
cents), making it the first official theme park
in California, as well. According to some, it
was one of Walt Disney’s inspirations for the
eponymous park he created five years later.
Today, Fairyland includes small rides such
PACIFIC PARK at Santa
as a mini Ferris wheel and carousels, and life- Monica, above; Gold Striker
sized sets depicting scenes from timeless at California’s Great
storybooks (Pinocchio’s castle and the America, right; Despicable
Humpty Dumpty wall are two favorites). The Me Minion Mayhem grand
theme park also is home to the Storybook opening at Universal

Puppet Theater, which opened in 1956. A Studios Hollywood, bottom;


The Simpsons Ride at
number of the country’s most famous pup-
Universal Studios
peteers got their start here, including a
Hollywood, opposite.
teenager by the name of Frances Oznowicz.
You likely know him as Frank Oz.

Disneyland
If the lovable (and life-sized) Mickey Mouse
and friends don’t pique your interest and
attention at California’s most famous theme
park, surely the rides will. The park, which
opened in 1955, features rides for all ages,
including some of the most ballyhooed
roller coasters anywhere in the state (one
favorite is Space Mountain, which speeds
along almost entirely in the dark).
Overall, Disneyland is divided into eight
themed areas, or “lands.” Some of these areas
focus on actual history: Frontierland recre-
ates the setting of the American frontier,
while Main Street U.S.A. is patterned after a
small Midwestern town (many believe Walt
Disney got his inspiration from his own boy-
hood town of Marceline, Missouri).
The park opened with one hotel, but
since the 1990s it has grown exponentially,
adding a new theme park (Disney’s Cali-
fornia Adventure), a shopping district
(Downtown Disney) and two additional
hotels. One of the newest attractions, Cars

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 27
THEME PARKS
Coaster, a roller coaster that takes passen-
gers upside-down in both forward and
backward directions.

San Diego Area Parks


San Diego and its surrounding suburbs also
comprise a great region for theme parks; two
family favorites are SeaWorld and Legoland.
Out near Mission Bay, in San Diego
proper, SeaWorld is a sprawling homage to
dozens of different species of marine life,
including dolphins, sea lions, walruses,
polar bears and beluga whales. It also is one
of only two places in the world where
emperor penguins are kept in captivity.
In the nearby community of Carlsbad,
PIRATEVILLE AT LEGOLAND Land, was inspired by the Cars movies, and Legoland is dedicated to tiny plastic bricks
California, Carlsbad, above. opened in June 2012. In 2015, the park (dubbed “Legos”), and boasts mind-bog-
unveiled a new and interactive light show, gling Lego replicas of famous architectural
the Paint the Night Parade. icons (the Statue of Liberty and the Taj
Mahal among them) as well as dioramas of
Other Bay Area Parks seven areas of the U.S. The park incorpo-
The San Francisco Bay Area is home to two rates rides and eateries, and is home to the
other popular parks: California’s Great Model Shop, the headquarters for the park’s
FIND YOUR
» FANTASY
America (in Santa Clara) and Six Flags Dis-
covery Kingdom (in Vallejo).
Great America, next to the new Levi’s
10 master builders (a window allows guests
to witness these professionals at work). In
the summer of 2013, the park also opened
Stadium, is all about rides. Diversions a hotel; the lobby has a giant pit of Legos
Universal Studios Hollywood range from scream-inducing (Flight Deck, with which children can play. There also is
universalstudioshollywood.com
a roller coaster, has one 360-degree loop an on-site water park.
Children’s Fairyland and a zero-gravity roll) to family-friendly
fairyland.org
(the Carousel Columbia is the world’s CityPASS
Disneyland
disneyland.disney.go.com tallest double-decker carousel). In 2015, the Once you’ve decided where to go, try City-
park expanded the Planet Snoopy kids area PASS for saving some money: In Southern
California’s Great America
cagreatamerica.com and added three new attractions, including California, it knocks as much as one third
two new racing rides. off the price of admission to Disneyland,
Six Flags Discovery Kingdom
sixflags.com/discoverykingdom The vibe at Discovery Kingdom is more Disney California Adventure Park, Legoland
CHRIS CHRISTIAN/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

Legoland California eclectic. In addition to rides such as the and SeaWorld. The Southern California City-
california.legoland.com Medusa roller coaster and SkyScreamer (a PASS is a single-admission card that’s good
SeaWorld swing ride), the park also is home to a over a 14-day period and allows you to skip
seaworldparks.com/en/
seaworld-sandiego
number of animals, including Jocko the most ticket lines. In San Francisco, CityPass
walrus, who starred in the 2004 movie, 50 offers similar discounts (for attractions such
Knott’s Berry Farm
knotts.com First Dates, and Brandon the reticulated as the California Academy of Sciences and
giraffe, who was named after San Francisco the Exploratorium), and is good for nine
CityPASS
citypass.com Giants slugger, Brandon Belt. In 2015, park days. Buy your CityPASS at any of the above
officials added the Dare Devil Chaos attractions or online at citypass.com.

28 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
CUISINE
BY LAURA NESS

The Dining Scene


California cuisine is more than food

PASADENA CVB. OPPOSITE: YOSEMITE SIGNATURE FOOD & WINE EVENTS; LOS ANGELES CVB; PASO ROBLES CVB
ALFRESCO DINING
All up and down the state dining in the
open air is popular, as it is here in
Pasadena, above. Los Angeles is known Like everything else in California from If the Midwest is the bread basket of
for its wide variety of exquisite politics to entertainment, food is a America, California is its dairy queen, its
restaurants, and its cousin to the north, celebrity-driven business. From the rock grape goddess, its almond alma mater, its
San Francisco, has more restaurants per
star antics of Guy Fieri to the farm-to-table greenhouse fairy godmother, and, sorry,
capita than any other U.S. city. Old
standards that have been around for phenom that took the country by storm, Texas, its meat locker. Yes, California does
decades still hold their own against the culinary scene is a mix of where to be have happier cows, with dairy being its
innovative new arrivals. SF’s Mission seen and those unseen farmers and field largest export, followed by grapes,
district has become a foodie haven and laborers who actually do all the dirty work almonds, nursery plants, cattle, strawber-
surrounding communities from Berkeley
necessary to put food on tables. Thanks to ries, lettuce and walnuts.
to Palo Alto to Napa and Sonoma all
bring fine food to the table. garden-to-table pioneer Alice Waters, who Between the Salinas Valley—America’s
made growing your own green the new Salad Bowl and top strawberry producer—
black before that was even an expression. and the Imperial Valley for tomatoes,
Today, California is the largest producer California farmers really put out. In record
of agricultural products in the country, numbers they are forming CSAs (Community
with more than 400 commodities. Nearly Supported Agriculture organizations) and it’s
half of USA-grown fruit, nuts and vegeta- no surprise that California has upwards of
bles come from the Golden State. 800 farmers markets, the most nationwide.

30 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
B. FARMERIE PLATING FOOD at Chefs’ Holidays at Yosemite
Signature Food & Wine Events, left; Angel City Brewery, Los Angeles,
below; a tempting plate at Pasolivo Family Bistro, Paso Robles, bottom.

Cadente (Fort Bragg), Victorine Valley the top of their game include Atelier
Farms (Livermore) and Olea (Paso Robles) Crenn, Boulevard, Perbacco, Zuni Café,
all producing decadent flavor-infusions, Nopa, Gary Danko, Slanted Door and Jar-
along with balsamics. dinière. In Berkeley, it’s still Chez Panisse
Restaurants with farm-to-table partner- and in Oakland, try Camino.
ships are prevalent, including The
Restaurant at Wente in Livermore with its Silicon Valley
sustainable gardens, and Michelin darling In Los Gatos, gem of Silicon Valley, the new
Manresa, in Los Gatos, whose relationship buzz is Hult’s (Scandinavian meets Cali-
with Love Apple Farms is legendary. Cham- fornia), Bywater (David Kinch’s latest, this
inade, in Santa Cruz, holds a series of one a homage to New Orleans), Verge
farm-to-table wine dinners featuring local (eclectic Asian-Fusion) and Nick’s Next
wineries and farm-fresh produce. Door (creatively exquisite comfort food),
while in Campbell it’s Orchard City Kitchen
Sustainability is the keyword in all Top Dining Destinations (by Michelin starred Chef Jeffrey Stout) and
things agriculture, and we can tip our hat LA & Environs Chef Ocean Orsten of Citrus at Hotel V on
to the Monterey Bay Aquarium for its Trendy dining spots in star-studded LA Santana Row.
impactful Seafood Watch program that include Animal, Bestia, The Bellweather,
helps diners make informed choices, Catch & Release, Cicada, Faith & Flower,
whether selecting fish at Whole Foods or Field Trip, Koi, Marlowe, Maude, Mozza,
dining at classic Pacific Grove spots like Petit Trois, Pot Commissary Café, Provi-
Passionfish and Fandango. dence, Saint Martha, Sam’s by the Beach,
Niman Ranch, a pioneer in hormone Toca Madera, Trois Mec and Valentino.
free, humanely raised meats, set the stage
for conscious consumption. Look for it on San Diego
finer menus everywhere. San Diego’s food scene is buzzing over Baci
Sonoma and Marin counties have Ristorante, Bracero, Bottega Americano,
become the Cheese hub, with names like Comun Kitchen & Tavern, Cucina Enoteca,
Barinaga (Marshall) and Cowgirl Creamery Coastera, Juniper & Ivy, Prado, Rustic Root
(Point Reyes) consistent award-winners. in the historic Gaslamp Quarter, the Red
Check out cheesetrail.org. Door and Trulucks.
Apple lovers can rejoice in Sebastopol,
home of Gravensteins, and in El Dorado’s San Francisco
Apple Hill, where 50 farms welcome you to San Francisco is a constant blender bender
pick. On the coast, berry farms (Swanton) of change, with restaurants opening and
and pumpkin patches (Arata’s in Half closing weekly. Top new culinary darling is
Moon Bay, complete with corn labyrinth) Al’s Place in the Mission, along with
beckon, and Duarte’s Tavern in Pescadero Acquerello, Bar Tartine, Commonwealth,
will warm you on foggy days with cream of Delfina, Flour + Water, La Folie, Liholiho
artichoke and chile soup. Yacht Club, Monsieur Benjamin, Quince,
California’s olive oil production has Michael Mina’s Pabu and The Ramen Bar,
skyrocketed, with favorites like Stella Range and The Richmond. Classics still at

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 31
CUISINE
DINING UNDER THE STARS
with a view at Pier 39, San Francisco, left;
the Chef introduces the Peacock Pie at
Bracebridge Dinner at Yosemite Signature
Food & Wine Events, opposite.

» FIND YOUR
NEXT MEAL

seafoodwatch.org
passionfish.net
fandangorestaurant.com

Seacoast Stars otherworldly experience, with views nimanranch.com


barinagaranch.com
Think Mendocino for some of the most plunging to the Pacific deep.
cowgirlcreamery.com
romantic and isolated coastal dining estab-
cheesetrail.org
lishments with drop-dead gorgeous views Food Trucks Bring It On
gravensteinapplefair.com
and zero traffic. North Coast stars include Trending skyward, food trucks have gone
applehill.com
Chef Marc Dym of Little River Inn and Chef from flash mob craze to commonplace. Off
swantonberryfarm.com
Nicolas Petti of Mendo Bistro, multiple the Grid, a Bay Area network offering just
aratapumpkinfarm.com
winner of the Dungeness crab cake cookoff about every imaginable international cui- duartestavern.com
held each January during Mendocino’s sine, now includes an artisan cheese truck stellacadente.com
Crabfest. The gourmet cuisine of Chef Peg called “Cheese Therapy.” victorinevalleyfarms.com
Davis at Brewery Gulch Inn makes it the oleafarms.com
finest B&B in Mendocino, and newcomer Food & Wine Extravaganzas wentevineyards.com/restaurant
The Wild Fish in Albion sets new standards True epicures should not miss the defin- manresarestaurant.com
for white linen seaside dining. itive food and wine events put on yearly loveapplefarms.com
by Pebble Beach’s Coastal Luxury Man- chaminade.com
Carmel & Monterey agement. First, there’s Pebble Beach Food summit2seawinetrail.com

La Balena’s authentic Italian cuisine is the & Wine in April, a multi-day extrava- littleriverinn.com

PIER 39, SAN FRANCISCO. OPPOSITE: LANI SPICER/ANDREA FULTON PRODUCTIONS


current fave in Carmel. Michelin-starred ganza showcasing the hottest new chefs mendobistro.com
mendocino.com
Aubergine, where Chef Justin Cogley and doing live cooking demos. And the wine
bernarduslodge.com
Pastry Chef Ron Mendoza work wonders, and selection is so unbeatable, you’d best
postranchinn.com
Anton & Michel, Casanova and Cantinetta learn to spit.
cheesetherapytruck.com
Lucca. Carmel Valley’s newly remodeled and LA Food & Wine follows in August. Sem-
offthegridsf.com
renamed Lucia at Bernardus Lodge, headed inars at both bring world-class educators,
pbfw.com
by esteemed Chef Cal Stamenov, continue to chefs and winemakers together to create
lafw.com
wow diners. Wills Fargo’s new owners, learning experiences that will open your testarossa.com
Hunter and Nick Lowder of Holman Ranch, eyes to the incomparable scope of the culi-
are revamping the revered steakhouse, while nary cosmos. Mouthwatering News
La Rustica puts out solid fare that will please Fans of Testarossa Winery will not want chow.com
a diverse audience before or after wine to miss the 3rd Annual Testarossa Wine & slofoodbank.org
tasting in the Village. Food festival on June 5 in Los Gatos, fea- tastingtable.com
In Big Sur, superstar Chef John Cox turing Michelin-starred chefs at the seriouseats.com
makes any meal at clifftop Sierra Mar an historic Novitiate.

32 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 33
WINE COUNTRY BY MARCY GORDON

Fruit of the Vine


When it comes to wine, there’s always something to celebrate

CALIFORNIA
VINEYARDS
Sampling local wines is a popular
There are so many wines, varieties and the casual wine fan seeking a few hours of
activity, whether in Santa Ynez
Valley, above, or in the many wine regions in California (the fourth largest food and fun, as well as to the experienced
growing regions up and down the wine producing area in the world after wine enthusiast determined to discover
state. California wines became Spain, France and Italy) that figuring out the next great grape producer.
famous when a Chardonnay from
where to go and what to taste can be
Chateau Montelena in Napa Valley
daunting. Aside from taking a tour, one of NORTHERN CALIFORNIA COAST
won the Judgment of Paris in 1976.
It was an event that rocked the wine the best ways to get acquainted with an Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, Livermore,
world, and the quality of California area is by attending a local wine festival. Santa Cruz Mountains
wines has only grown since then. Think of it as Wine-Recon, a most The most famous California wine region by
delightful way to gather insight and infor- far is in Northern California. Napa Valley is
mation on local wineries in a short span of known around the world for its exceptional
time. From large-scale food and wine fests wines, and draws more visitors than any
to small, quirky events focused on specific other area. The quintessential wine country
wines such as Pinot Noir, sparkling, or experience was perfected here, with more
Rhônes, wine festivals can cater to both than 300 wineries vying for your taste buds

34 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SANTA BARBARA WINE COUNTRY,
right; wine barrels stacked outside
Chateau Montelena, Calistoga, below
right; cycling among the vines, Paso
Robles, bottom right.

along Highway 29 and the Silverado Trail.


Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are
the signature grapes grown in the valley, but
other varieties have been making a strong
showing in the last decade. While the
majority of visitors go to the big-name
wineries such as Robert Mondavi, Beringer
and Sterling, those in the know are heading
for Coombsville. Located just minutes from
downtown Napa, Coombsville’s unusual
cool climate results in sensational Caber- Signal Ridge. Just up the road from the The Passport to Hopland, a true locals event, is
nets from grower/producers such as Meteor, Madrones you’ll find the Baxter Winery held twice a year in spring and fall.
Sodaro, Caldwell and Farella. Most are open tasting room, a must stop for outstanding In Sonoma County, Healdsburg reigns
by appointment only, but well worth the Pinot Noir from a father and son wine- as the king of the tasting rooms in Cali-
effort to call and go. making team. Anderson Valley hosts two fornia. Local under-the-radar favorites
Foodies and wine lovers will want to exceptional festivals, the highly regarded include Banshee, Stark and Cartograph.
check out Flavor! Napa Valley, an annual Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Fest in May, Healdsburg is also home to one of the most
event featuring world class Napa Valley and the Alsace Fest in February, focusing eclectic wine events of the year—the uber
wines alongside food prepared by the on Alsace-style white wines including hip 7% Solution Fest dedicated to rare,
DINA MANDE; WOLLERTZ/SHUTTERSTOCK; JAY SINCLAIR. OPPOSITE: MICAH/SHUTTERSTOCK

master chefs and graduates of The Culinary Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, lesser grown grape varieties with
Institute of America at the Greystone Pinot Blanc and Muscat. Farther inland, extremely limited production.
Campus in St. Helena. The Valley’s most
famous event, Auction Napa Valley is the
place to hob-nob with serious wine collec-
tors in a weekend of intimate soirees,
casual luncheons and grand tastings, cul-
minating with the auction, where bids on
exclusive wine lots reach the stratosphere
for a worthy cause.
Prefer something more pastoral? Wind
your way up Highway 128 in Mendocino
County to Anderson Valley, the premier
growing region in Mendocino, and stop in
at the The Madrones, a wine-tasting and
luxury lodging “suite spot” that showcases
local wines from Drew, Bink, Knez and

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 35
WINE COUNTRY

One of the oldest regions, Livermore, is The Central Coast is one of the largest and
just 30 miles east of San Francisco and best most diverse wine growing regions, and
known for its Chardonnay production and Monterey is home to the granddaddy of
the well-established winery estates of all wine festivals, the Pebble Beach Food
Wente and Concannon. In March, you can and Wine Classic in April, where you can
meet the winemakers and taste wine right sip fine wines and enjoy small plates by
out of the barrel during the Livermore star chefs.
A ROMANTIC WINE TASTING in Sonoma,
Valley Annual Barrel Tasting Weekend. If you are a Pinot or Syrah fan, head for
above; San Luis Obispo wine country, top.
the highlands, the Santa Lucia Highlands, an
SIERRA FOOTHILLS appellation with many noteworthy wineries
Visiting Northern Sonoma in January? El Dorado, Amador, Calaveras such as Morgan, Mer Soleil, and Hahn.
Warm up a chill winter day with new The mining towns of the Sierra foothills— Santa Clara Valley is one of the oldest
releases, barrel tasting and food pairings Placerville, Amador City and Sutter wine regions in California. Founded by
at Winter WINEland, a self-paced winery Creek—used to draw prospectors in search Italian immigrants in the early 1800s, this
tour that’s the toasty event of the season. of gold. Now wine lovers come in search of region has now grown to approximately 23
For a veritable movable feast of food, wine riches in liquid form, such as Grenache, wineries featuring such varietals as
and vineyard vistas, head to Jordan Sangiovese and particularly Old-vine Zin- Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and
Winery, just outside of town on Alexander fandel. The proximity to natural wonders harder-to-find varietals such as Barbera,
Valley Road, for the three-hour Estate Tour from groves of giant sequoias to caves and Sangiovese and Pinot Blanc. Follow the
and Tasting experience. caverns makes this region the perfect stop new, 28-mile-loop Wine Trail for a taste of
Sebastopol, an area previously noted for for the active oenophile. this re-emerging wine region.
its apples, is gaining ground as a place for The main street of Murphys is lined Paso Robles is said to be the region with
great wine too with several tasting rooms in with Gold Rush-era buildings and more the most potential, and wineries here
the new Barlow complex featuring boutique than 20 tasting rooms equal parts rustic range from large commercial producers to
wines from Kosta Browne, LaFollette, Wind and sophisticated. If possible, time your small boutiques making limited quanti-
Gap, MacPhail, and Marimar Estate. Just visit to coincide with the Barbera Fest in ties. Peachy Canyon, Gray Wolf, J. Lohr and
CHRIS LESCHINSKY; DOUGLAS THOMPSON

south of Sebastopol, the Petaluma Gap Wine June, or the Rocks & Rhônes Weekend on Tablas Creek are some of the standouts
Growers Alliance hosts the Wind to Wine Memorial Day weekend. along the wine trail. Looking to meet the
Festival, a new event showcasing wines pro- next great winemaker? The Garagiste Fest
duced with fruit grown within the CENTRAL COAST in Paso Robles will introduce you to the
boundaries of the newly proposed Petaluma Monterey, Santa Lucia Highlands, small guys with bright futures. And if bub-
Gap AVA, a sub-region of the Sonoma Coast Chalone, Carmel Valley, Paso Robles, bles make you happy, BubblyFest by the Sea
AVA, characterized by intense afternoon Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande, in Pismo Beach is one of the only festivals
winds in the growing season. Santa Clara Valley in the county dedicated to sparkling wines.

36 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
WINE COUNTRY

» WINE FESTIVALS
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA SIERRA FOOTHILLS
NAPA Rocks & Rhônes Weekend—May 21-22
Auction Napa Valley—June 2-5 pleasantvalleywineries.com
auctionnapavalley.org
The Barbera Fest—June 11
Flavor! Napa Valley—Nov. 17-20 barberafestival.com
flavornapavalley.com
CENTRAL COAST
SONOMA Passport Weekend—March 19-20
Winter WINEland—Jan. 16-17 santaclarawines.com
wineroad.com/events/winter_wineland
Pebble Beach Food & Wine Classic
7% Solution (Healdsburg) March 31-April 3
May (check site for date) pbfw.com
bergamotalley.com/seven-solution
BUBBLYFest by the Sea (Pismo Beach)
Wind to Wine Festival (Petaluma) Oct. 1-2
Nov. 5 bubblyfest.com
petalumagap.com/event/wind-to-wine-
festival Garagiste Festival (Paso Robles)
Nov. 10-12
MENDOCINO garagistefestival.com
The International Alsace Varietals
Festival—Feb. 13-14 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
avwines.com/alsace-festival & CENTRAL VALLEY
Zin Fest (Lodi Lake)—May 13-15
Hopland Passport zinfest.com Olivos is the place. Don’t miss Alta Maria’s
April 30-May 1 & Oct. 15-16
destinationhopland.com/hopland-pass- Temecula Valley Balloon & world class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay,
port Wine Festival—May 20-22 Tercero for Rhône varietals, and the stun-
tvbwf.com
Anderson Valley Pinot Fest ning Riesling at Fess Parker. But if you are
May 20-22 Bacon & Barrels (Los Olivos)—July 15-17 a hardcore pork and pinot lover, make
avwines.com/anderson-valley-pinot- baconandbarrels.com/the-event
noir-festival plans to be in Los Olivos in July for the
San Diego Zoo Wine and Food—Sept. 24 Bacon & Barrels Festival.
LIVERMORE sandiegozoo.org/zoo/celebration
Livermore Valley Barrel Tasting Zinfandel grows well in the Central
Weekend—March 19-20 Santa Barbara Celebration of Harvest Valley, a major agricultural region that

CHRIS ANDRE PHOTOGRAPHY. OPPOSITE: LEONARD ZHUKOVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK


lvwine.org/event/1192/Barrel_Tasting_ Oct. 7-10
Weekend.html celebrationofharvest.com runs down the middle of the state from
Sacramento to Bakersfield, and Lodi Zin
Fest is the most famous and longest run-
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA & Noir hot spot (or cool spot, as Pinot grapes ning festival for Zinfandel lovers. Lodi’s
CENTRAL VALLEY don’t like too much heat). But the ghosts of star is on the rise, its status as merely bulk
Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills, Sideways’ Miles and Jack are long gone and wine territory is fading fast and it’s now
Santa Ynez Valley, Los Olivos, it’s safe to drink Merlot again. Fall brings the recognized as one of the top wine regions
Temecula, Lodi, Madera, Clarksburg annual Celebration of Harvest with Santa in the new world, a hotbed of production
The Southern California coastal region vine- Barbara Vintners offering free wine tasting growing over 100 varieties in addition to
yards in Santa Barbara, Santa Rita Hills and over Columbus Day Weekend along the wine it’s legendary Zin. Two popular producers
Santa Ynez Valley produce primarily trails of Buellton, Foxen Canyon, Lompoc, are the Berghold Estate Winery and
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, the new Los Olivos, Santa Barbara, Santa Ynez Valley, Michael-David Winery, best known for its
emerging star. Santa Ynez Valley became the Santa Rita Hills and Solvang. 7 Deadly Zins blend. Wine geeks in the
poster child for wine tourism when the 2004 In search of the ideal town to spend the know head to McCay Cellars for the Zin,
film Sideways confirmed its status as a Pinot day tasting, shopping and dining? Tiny Los but stay for the Viognier.

38 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
MAYO FAMILY WINERY, Glen Ellen,
right; Bordeaux tasting at Vintners’
Holidays, Yosemite Signature Food &
Wine Events, opposite.

Vineyards inland in Southern Cali-


fornia’s mostly hot and arid region are
gaining notice, and Temecula in particular
is generating an ardent following for its wine too. The two primary growing Food Festival where you can stroll the
wines and sheer determination to grow regions, San Pasqual and Ramona Valley, grounds and sip wine in the midst of the
grapes in a challenging location. Get an continue to develop with many wineries wild kingdom.
overview of the wine scene, literally, offering tastings and tours. One standout California wine festivals and events fill
during the Temecula Valley Balloon and in San Pasqual is Orfila, an ultra-premium the calendar all year long, like a roulette
Wine festival. boutique winery making Rhônes, Zin- wheel of juicy prospects. Whether you plan
San Diego usually means sun and sand, fandel, and Merlot. Animal lovers will ahead, or spin the big wine wheel and see
but just an hour north you’ll find there’s enjoy the annual San Diego Zoo Wine and where it lands, the odds are delicious.

» FIND A WINERY
GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA WINE Paso Robles Livermore Valley
californiawineryadvisor.com peachycanyon.com Wine Growers Association
greywolfcellars.com lvwine.org
WINERIES & VINEYARDS jlohr.com
tablascreek.com Lodi Wineries
Northern California Coast
lodiwine.com/wineries
robertmondavi.com
beringer.com Southern California
Mendocino Wine Country
sterlingvineyards.com & Central Valley mendowine.com
meteorvineyard.com altamaria.com
farella.com fessparkerwines.com Napa Valley Vintners
sodarowines.com tercerowines.com napavintners.com
caldwellvineyard.com
baxterwinery.com Lodi Paso Robles Wine
binkwines.com bergholdvineyards.com pasowine.com
knezwinery.com michaeldavidwinery.com
drewwines.com mccaycellars.com Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance
signalridge.com petalumagap.com
bansheewines.com San Diego
starkwine.com orfila.com Pleasant Valley Wineries
cartographwines.com pleasantvalleywineries.com
jordanwinery.com TASTING ROOMS
themadrones.com San Diego/Ramona Valley
kostabrowne.com
Vineyard Association
lafollettewines.com
WINERY ASSOCIATIONS ramonavalleyvineyards.org
marimarestate.com
windgapwines.com Anderson Valley Wine Growers Association
avwines.com Santa Barbara Vintners Association
macphailwine.com sbcountywines.com
Central Coast & Coombsville Winery Members
Sonoma Wine Road Association
Santa Lucia Highlands coombsvillenapa.org wineroad.com
mersoleilvineyard.com
hahnestates.com El Dorado County & Sierra Foothills Temecula Wineries
morganwinery.com eldoradowines.org temeculawines.org/wineries-vineyards
clos.com
guglielmowinery.com Hopland West Sonoma Coast Vintners
sycamorecreekvineyards.com destinationhopland.com/wineries westsonomacoast.com

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 39
MUSEUMS & ART BY JEFF GREENWALD & LAURIE WEED

Celebrating the Human Spirit


Art, science and culture flourish on the Left Coast

HUNTINGTON
ART GALLERY
Part of the Huntington Library,
Art Collections and Botanical Maybe it’s something about the sunshine, The Arts
Gardens in San Marino, the the sense of freedom, that West Coast cul- Visiting Los Angeles? It’s easy to spend
gallery contains an extensive
ture, the mystery of desert-meets-Pacific… hours gleefully lost in the galleries at the
collection with a focus on 18th-
who knows? Whatever the reason, Cali- Los Angeles County Museum of Art
and 19th-century European art

HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTION, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS. OPPOSITE: DISCOVER LA; SACRAMENTO CVB
and 17th- to mid 20th-century fornia has a long tradition of attracting (LACMA). The museum always features
American art. The institution artists and innovators—not to mention some great temporary exhibitions, but
was established by railroad generous arts patrons and benefactors. As don’t miss their permanent collections of
magnate Henry E. Huntington
a result, the Golden State is rich in Asian, African and Japanese art. Deeper
and opened in 1928, a year after
museums, science centers and thriving arts downtown, the Museum of Contemporary
his death.
scenes, all in astonishing variety. Art (MoCA) and Geffen Contemporary
Coastal cities are hubs for much of the showcase the best in 20th- and 21st-century
arty goodness. From the San Francisco Bay painting, sculpture and conceptual art-
Area to San Diego, you are never very far work. Late 2015 saw the opening of the
from a world-class collection of classical or architecturally dazzling Broad Museum, a
contemporary art. In addition to visual arts “theater of ideas” featuring more than
of every stripe, there are museums high- 2,000 works of contemporary art—with
lighting natural and cultural history, science free general admission.
and technology, and many that celebrate the One highlight of a California visit is
diverse cultures of the state’s nearly 39 mil- often the renowned Getty Museum, which
lion residents. Whether you prefer to ogle includes both the Getty Center in Los
modern art or antiquities, space shuttles or Angeles and the Getty Villa in Malibu. The
steam engines, you’re sure to find at least Villa’s 2016 offerings will include an exhi-
one museum to dazzle you. bition of Roman mosaics, while the more

40 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER,
Los Angeles, right; California State
Railroad Museum, Sacramento,
bottom right.

contemporary Center (which spans the


Medieval period to the present) will
present the photography of Robert Map-
plethorpe, ancient Buddhist cave art from
the Gobi Desert and a collection of illumi- of 70 Rodins in the museum’s permanent
nated manuscripts. collection. In nearby Golden Gate Park,
Pasadena’s wonderful Norton Simon meanwhile, the reimagined de Young is lit-
showcases a spectrum of European and erally a pillar of modern architecture. A
Modern artists, amid a beautiful and serene distinctive copper building featuring a 10-
sculpture garden. In nearby San Marino, story observation tower, the de Young is
the impressive Beaux-Arts mansion and Northern California’s premier metropol-
grounds of financier Henry E. Huntington itan art museum, showcasing the arts of
are now The Huntington, with an impres- Africa, Oceania and the New World. Special you’re in the East Bay, check out the
sive library, art collections and 120 acres of exhibits in 2016 will include a lavish Oscar Berkeley Art Museum—on the campus of
botanical gardens. Here you can admire de la Renta retrospective, Raphael’s iconic UC Berkeley—with its often odd mix of
Audubon’s bird drawings, view an actual “Portrait of a Lady with a Unicorn” and super-contemporary, Abstract Expres-
Gutenberg Bible and wander through one painter Ed Ruscha’s provocative take on the sionist and traditional Asian art.
of the West Coast’s most surreal displays of modern mythology of the American West.
flowering cacti and succulents. The San Francisco Museum of Modern Science
Ninety miles north of LA, the Santa Bar- Art (SFMOMA) is in the midst of a massive The marvelous California Science Center
bara Museum of Art is renowned for its expansion project, expected to be com- in Los Angeles’ Exposition Park claims to
ambitious and imaginative exhibitions. An plete in 2016. Their motto is, “We’ve be the largest hands-on science museum
equal distance to the south, San Diego’s temporarily moved...everywhere.” Check on the West Coast, with ongoing exhibits
Museum of Contemporary Art features a their website (see sidebar) for satellite on invention, space travel and life sci-
variety of exhibits in two locations, the exhibitions around the Bay Area. ences. Visitors can get up close to the Space
historic Jacob building downtown and A short BART ride (or drive across the Shuttle Endeavor or explore some of the
their sparkling oceanfront La Jolla prop- Bay Bridge) from San Francisco, the Oak- Earth’s harshest ecosystems, from boiling
erty. In Balboa Park, the Museum of land Museum of California (OMCA) is sea vents to the polar zones. The most
Photographic Arts is California’s only dedicated to the arts, history and ecology amazing thing of all? It’s free!
museum dedicated exclusively to photog- of California. This handsome gem is one of Ten years and half a billion dollars in
raphy, film and video. the state’s finest museums, offering tem- the making, the California Academy of Sci-
San Francisco’s two most important art porary exhibits on themes ranging from ences in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park
museums are as architecturally different the Day of the Dead to “A Cinematic Study features the Steinhart Aquarium, “home to
as two buildings can be. The Legion of of Fog.” The museum’s beautiful new wing nearly 40,000 live animals,” a walk-
Honor—set in Lincoln Park, on a hill over- on California’s Natural History includes through rainforest with free-ranging birds
looking the Golden Gate Bridge and Pacific displays of life and work from the Gold and butterflies, the world’s largest all-dig-
Ocean—is a ¾-scale recreation of Paris’ Rush to Hollywood, from the Beats to ital planetarium and a “Living Roof” with
Palais de la Légion d’Honneur, and holds an the Tech Boom. Also one of the more 1.7 million native California plants: a world
extraordinary collection of drawings as family-friendly museums around, OMCA unto itself. The long admission lines can
well as changing exhibitions from around sponsors many events, hands-on exhibits be daunting (it’s one of the most-visited
the world. At the entrance, surrounded by and activities designed to engage young museums in the country), but they move
Beaux-Arts columns, sits The Thinker—one artists and budding naturalists. And while fast and it’s worth the effort.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 41
MUSEUMS & ART
PACIFIC ASIA MUSEUM, Pasadena, right. » FIND
YOUR ART

After nearly 45 years at the Palace of THE ARTS


Fine Arts Museums of SF
Fine Arts, the legendary Exploratorium famsf.org
moved to Piers 15 and 17 on San Francisco’s SF MOMA
sfmoma.org
Embarcadero in 2013. The vast new space Oakland Museum of California
houses more than 650 interactive museumca.org
LACMA
exhibits—including an amazing “Tin- What follows is but a sample; there are lacma.org
kerers’ Clock,” mind-boggling optical many, many more cultural museums to MoCA
moca.org
illusions and a popular “After Dark” event choose from. We wish we could include Geffen Contemporary
on the first Thursday evening of every them all! moca.org
The Broad Museum
month. The crawl-through Tactile Dome, In Sacramento, the California Museum thebroad.org
recently refurbished, remains a highlight features the California Hall of Fame, cele- Norton Simon Museum
nortonsimon.org
(reservations required). brating local legends from John Muir to The Huntington Library
Both the Academy of Sciences and Sally Ride. huntington.org
Getty Center & Getty Villa
Exploratorium are geared toward kids of all In San Francisco’s North Beach, the Beat getty.edu/visit
ages. For those traveling with children Museum is affectionately known as “The Santa Barbara Museum of Art
sbmuseart.org
under eight, the Bay Area Discovery House Jack (Kerouac) Built.” Downtown, Museum of Contemporary Art,
Museum at Fort Baker in Sausalito, a pint- the Contemporary Jewish Museum and San Diego
mcasd.org
sized Wonderland dedicated to promoting nearby Museum of the African Diaspora Museum of Photographic Arts
creative thinking, makes a worthwhile day (MoAD) provide fascinating insights into mopa.org

trip. From San Francisco, it’s a short drive two of California’s most creative ethnic tra- SCIENCE
across the Golden Gate Bridge. ditions. Visiting the Asian Art Museum, in California Science Center
californiasciencecenter.org
The Tech Museum of Innovation in San San Francisco’s former Public Library, is The Tech Museum
Jose (the heart of Silicon Valley) is the the next best thing to a trip along the thetech.org
Monterey Bay Aquarium
country’s first museum dedicated to the dig- ancient Silk Road. The small but beloved montereybayaquarium.org
ital revolution, with exhibits on Artificial Mexican Museum of San Francisco will California Academy of Sciences
calacademy.org
Intelligence, Robotics and Cyber-Security. soon be moving from its Fort Mason out- Exploratorium
Two hours south of San Francisco by car, post to Yerba Buena Gardens—and exploratorium.edu
Bay Area Discovery Museum
the Monterey Bay Aquarium deserves to be enjoying a long-overdue expansion. baykidsmuseum.org
included among the Wonders of the World For a taste of luminous California
CULTURE
for its astonishing displays of sea otters and kitsch, the nebulous Museum of Neon The California Museum
jellies, its mesmerizing three-story kelp Art—scheduled to reopen in Glendale’s californiamuseum.org
Beat Museum
forest and a staggering million-gallon new Cultural Arts District—plans to offer thebeatmuseum.org
“Outer Bay” tank as fascinating as any IMAX seasonal “Neon Cruises” through the high- Contemporary Jewish Museum
thecjm.org
film. Give yourself a full day to enjoy Mon- voltage landmarks of downtown Los MoAD
terey’s iconic Cannery Row and explore this Angeles. In Long Beach, the Museum of moadsf.org
Asian Art Museum
PASADENA CVB; OPPOSITE: SF OPERA.

marvel of a museum. Latin American Art (MoLAA) features asianart.org


modern and contemporary work by artists Museum of Neon Art
neonmona.org
Culture from the New World. In Little Tokyo, the Japanese American National Museum
California is a rare and enduring alloy of Japanese American National Museum fea- janm.org
Mexican Museum
more than 50 ethnic groups. Its museums tures exhibitions ranging from the World mexicanmuseum.org
reflect the racial diversity and cultural his- War II incarcerations to a sprawling show MoLAA
molaa.com
tory of this melting pot in microcosm. on Hello Kitty.

42 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
PERFORMING ARTS BY JEFF GREENWALD & LAURIE WEED

Encore! Encore!
California celebrates every flavor of live performance

What would one expect, though, from


the birthplace of I Love Lucy and the home
of the San Francisco Mime Troupe? The
performing arts are one of California’s
great attractions, with a dizzying variety of
choices—sacred, profane and everything
in between—that is both inspiring and
maddening. A full accounting is impos-
sible, but here are some suggestions to
consider if you are visiting any of the
state’s urban hubs.

Regional Theaters
In San Diego, near the Mexican border, the
La Jolla Playhouse has seen 26 of its pro-
ductions move across the continent to
Broadway, earning 35 Tony Awards. The Old
Globe Theatre presents the plays of Shake-
SAN FRANCISCO Performance is the lifeblood of the arts, speare (of course), as well as works by the
OPERA especially in California. From the Barbary likes of Arthur Miller and an annual
The world-renowned San Francisco Coast docks to the Paramount studio lots, Christmas production penned by a late
Opera is the second largest opera
drama, dance and music have always been local resident: Dr. Seuss.
company in North America.
an indelible part of the “Left Coast” spirit. Los Angeles, naturally, features dozens
Founded in 1923, the company’s
first performance was Puccini’s It makes perfect sense that, in the classic of small theater companies—such as Santa
La Bohème. Opera had been popular 1936 film San Francisco, Mary Blake Monica’s Open Fist, the Actor’s Co-op, the
in San Francisco since Gold Rush (Jeanette MacDonald) is singing her heart diverse Cornerstone and Hollywood’s pro-
days, but until 1923 had only been
out when the Great Earthquake strikes. found Blank Theater (which hosts the
performed by visiting opera
Today, nearly every town in California annual Young Playwrights Festival every
companies. Today, opening night is
a festive occasion, with the War boasts a stage of its own—from the Light- summer). The city’s star attraction is the
Memorial Opera House always house Repertory Theater in Crescent City Center Theatre Group, with three stages:
packed. A scene from a recent to San Diego’s Coronado Playhouse. The The Mark Taper Forum, Kirk Douglas
production of Tosca appears above.
state’s scores of concert halls, symphony and Ahmanson theaters. Here you’ll find
The Opera also produces an annual
orchestras, theaters, jazz clubs, dance com- everything from top-shelf classics to
simulcast at AT&T Park, home of the
San Francisco Giants, above right. panies, comedy troupes, cabarets, operas cutting-edge solo performances.
and fringe festivals lay waste to the notion It is San Francisco, though, that quali-
of spending a quiet evening (or even an fies as California’s theater epicenter. Home
afternoon) at home. of the legendary American Conservatory

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 43
PERFORMING ARTS
Theater (A.C.T., which premiered Cole highest distinction in American theater. most striking buildings, inside and out—
Porter’s High Society in 1997), the city offers These include the Berkeley Repertory The- as well as the home of the renowned and
live performance for every taste. The atre, 30 minutes by car or a short BART ride innovative Los Angeles Philharmonic. Cal-
Eureka Theatre (which premiered Angels in from San Francisco. They continue a tradi- ifornia’s other preeminent orchestra is of
America), the Magic Theatre (which estab- tion of inspired experimentation, with a course the San Francisco Symphony, under
lished playwright Sam Shepard), Z Space roster that has included works by artists the legendary musical direction of Michael
and Aurora are just a few of the city’s native such as Mary Zimmerman and Green Day, Tilson Thomas, at home in the Louise M.
companies—not to mention the politically and solo shows by Rita Moreno, Anna Davies Symphony Hall.
charged San Francisco Mime Troupe, now Devere Smith and many others. There was a time, not too long ago, when
in its 58th rabble-rousing year. For superb And while you’re in the East Bay, don’t the pride of every major city in the world
solo performance, check out both Intersec- overlook “Cal Shakes”—the California was its opera house. Opera still maintains
tion for the Arts and The Marsh (“A Shakespeare Company—with its gorgeous a huge following in California, with nearly
breeding ground for new performance”), open-air venue in the Orinda hills. thirty companies across the state—five in
which has built an enviable reputation Other excellent theaters include the the LA area alone. The San Francisco Opera
with its four intimate theaters in two loca- South Coast Repertory in Costa Mesa, San and Los Angeles Opera are two of the largest
tions, San Francisco and Berkeley. Jose Repertory and the Sacramento Theater in North America, with global reputations
A terrific recent addition to the Bay Area Company. Finally, the state hosts no less for set production and excellence. Kudos as
theater scene is We Players, led by than five cutting-edge Fringe Festivals— well to the renowned Long Beach Opera,
visionary artistic director Ava Roy. In col- search online for “Fringe Festival California” now in its fourth decade.
laboration with the National Park Service, to find up-to-date listings. But California’s two most prominent
We Players have performed Ondine at the cities don’t have a monopoly on great
Sutro Baths, The Odyssey on Angel Island Symphonies, Opera & Ballet music. San Diego, Sacramento, Oakland,
and Macbeth at Fort Point. Check their Designed by visionary architect Frank Santa Cruz and Santa Barbara all support
website (see sidebar) for upcoming site- Owen Gehry, the Walt Disney Concert Hall superb orchestras.
specific shows. in downtown LA was designed to be one of Ballet in the Golden State has an equally
Half a dozen California regional play- the most acoustically perfect performance impressive pedigree. The San Francisco

MATT MARRIOTT/DISCOVER LA. OPPOSITE: PLAYING FOR CHANGE FOUNDATION/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICR


houses have won Tony Awards—the spaces on earth. It’s also one of the planet’s Ballet, founded in 1933, was the first pro-
fessional ballet company in the United
States. The California Ballet Company in
San Diego has attained a stellar interna-
tional reputation, and remains the largest
professional ballet company in Southern
California. Celebrating its 10th season in
2016, the Los Angeles Ballet is a newcomer
to the scene, while the reinvigorated Oak-
land Ballet recently marked its golden 50th
anniversary.

Jazz & Blues


Here’s a quick sampler of the state’s best
jazz and blues clubs. Oakland, a rising star
in many arenas, is a hotbed of jazz with
clubs like Yoshi’s in Jack London Square,
Geoffrey’s Inner Circle and Birdland
leading the pack. Across the Bay in San
Francisco, don’t miss the SF Jazz Center,

44 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
1LOVE PLAYING FOR CHANGE DAY at Whisky a Go Go,
West Hollywood, left; Broadway in downtown Los Angeles,
opposite bottom.

» FIND A
PERFORMANCE

La Jolla Playhouse LA Opera


and visit The Saloon and Club Deluxe for blues. In Santa lajollaplayhouse.org laopera.org
Cruz, it’s the Kuumbwa Jazz Center; in Fullerton, The Old Globe Long Beach Opera
Steamers; the Baked Potato and Catalina in Hollywood; theoldglobe.org longbeachopera.org

Charlie O’s in Van Nuys; and The Torch Club (for blues) in Open Fist Theatre San Francisco Symphony
openfist.org sfsymphony.org
Sacramento. In LA, find the hottest new offerings at the
Jazz Bakery. Actor’s Co-op Los Angeles Philharmonic
actorsco-op.org laphil.com

Cornerstone Theater San Francisco Ballet


Rock ’n’ Roll ’n’ More cornerstonetheater.org sfballet.org
From the Doors to the Dead, California has long been
Blank Theater California Ballet Company
Ground Zero for great live music. Here are a few of Cali- theblank.com californiaballet.org
fornia’s legendary rock ’n’ roll haunts, still going strong. In
Center Theatre Group Los Angeles Ballet
San Francisco, check out what’s on at the Fillmore, the centertheatregroup.org losangelesballet.org
Warfield, the Independent and Great American Music Hall. American Conservatory Theater Oakland Ballet
Just across the Bay Bridge, some of the best venues include act-sf.org oaklandballet.org

the Fox and glorious Paramount Theater in Oakland, as Eureka Theatre SF Jazz Center
theeurekatheatre.com sfjazz.org
well as Berkeley’s Greek Theatre—known simply as “the
Greek.” Over the Golden Gate, Sweetwater Music Hall in Magic Theatre Kuumbwa Jazz Center
magictheatre.org kuumbwajazz.org
Mill Valley, Marin County, often hosts well-known artists.
Z Space Yoshi’s Jazz Club
Looking to rock it in LA? Check out the Troubadour, the zspace.org yoshis.com
Roxy and Whisky a Go Go, an LA institution since 1964.
Aurora Theatre The Jazz Bakery
Some other legendary California venues include the Cat- auroratheatre.org jazzbakery.org
alyst in Santa Cruz, the Casbah and “the Brick” (Brick by
Intersection for the Arts The Baked Potato
Brick) in San Diego. theintersection.org thebakedpotato.com

The Marsh Catalina


Circus & Cabaret themarsh.org catalinajazzclub.com

Originally founded in 1969 by the late Clifford Vargas, San Francisco Mime Troupe The Casbah
sfmt.org casbahmusic.com
Circus Vargas is California’s largest home-grown circus,
featuring a vast Big Top that covers two acres and requires We Players Brick by Brick
weplayers.org brickbybrick.com
30 people to put up and pull down. Quebec-based Cirque
Berkeley Repertory Theatre Circus Vargas
du Soleil is also a frequent visitor to the state, with sched- berkeleyrep.org circusvargas.org
uled appearances in most major cities. Teatro Zinzanni
California Shakespeare Company Cirque du Soleil
(“Love, Chaos, and Dinner”) sadly departed San Francisco’s calshakes.org cirquedusoleil.com
waterfront in 2011, but the beloved dinner theater/vaude-
San Francisco Opera Teatro Zinzanni
ville/cabaret is making plans to return in 2016. Check their sfopera.com zinzanni.com/sf
website for re-opening news.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 45
MOVIES BY JACQUELINE YAU

Shooting on Location It’s the movies that have really been running things in
Many of your favorite films were made America ever since they were invented. They show you
what to do, how to do it, when to do it, how to feel
in California, at a location near you
about it, and how to look how you feel about it.
—Andy Warhol

SAN FRANCISCO
For decades, San Francisco has been a
popular location for films because of its
breathtaking setting and beautiful
architecture, as seen here on Lombard For more than a century, filmmakers memorable quotes as, “Just one word…
Street, the famous “crookedest street in have been inspired by California’s polyglot plastics,” from The Graduate (1967) and
the world.” Countless films have been culture, striking landscapes and laid-back Arnold Schwarzenegger’s line in The Ter-
F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK
shot in the city and tours visit as many
lifestyle to create a breathless diversity of minator (1984), “I’ll be back.” There’s a
as 70 movie locations.
movies representing the human condi- symbiotic relationship between the film
tion. A Paramount Studio location map industry and the state, and many cities
from 1927 shows what locations in Cali- have benefited economically from films
fornia could stand in for places across the shot in and around them.
country and around the world—from
Wyoming cattle country to the Nile River Film Locations by the Hundreds
to the Swiss Alps to Sherwood Forest in So many movies have been filmed in Cali-
England. These movie-making master fornia that cottage industries have cropped
illusionists have shaped perceptions up guiding tourists to film locations. There
of the Golden State and influenced atti- are hundreds of places to visit in Holly-
tudes and dress globally through such wood and greater LA, the cradle of the

46 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
HOLLYWOOD’S DOLBY THEATRE
and Walk of Fame, right.

movie business. One of the better-kept


secrets is Greystone Mansion and Park in
Beverly Hills. This estate is part of a public
park that sits on 16 acres of land and is the
setting for dozens of movies, including
Star Trek Into Darkness (2013), The Social downtown Petaluma in Sonoma County,
Network (2010), the Spiderman series and East of Eden (1955), filmed in Mendo-
(2002-2007) and X-Men (2000). cino, or Some Like It Hot (1959) filmed at the
If you are hungry, snack on an apple Hotel del Coronado in San Diego. Or you
fritter at Randy’s Donuts, the oft-filmed want to retrace Tippi Hedren’s steps in
and iconic 24-hour drive-thru bakery, seen Alfred Hitchcock’s iconic suspense film, The
in Iron Man 2 (2010) as protagonist Tony Birds, shot in Bodega Bay and other parts of
Stark munches on the sweets reclining Sonoma County and in San Francisco.
inside the giant donut sign. Take a tour of Beyond these coastal film locations, the
the Walt Disney Concert Hall featured in Sacramento River Delta has been used many
The Soloist (2009) in downtown Los times as a movie location, especially as a
Angeles. Or join Dearly Departed Tours for stand-in for the Mississippi Delta. In the late
their special Halloween Horror Film Loca- 1950s, at least seven major movies were
tion Tour around Hollywood and Pasadena. filmed in the Stockton area, such as God’s
LA isn’t the only place movies are shot. Little Acre, The Big Country (with Gregory
San Francisco has been the backdrop for Peck and Charlton Heston), Miss Brooks,
countless films. San Francisco Movie Tours Porgy and Bess (Sammy Davis, Jr. and Pearl
offers multiple tours. Its three-hour bus Bailey), Cool Hand Luke (1967) starring Paul
excursion visits locations where 70 movie Newman and Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981).
scenes from more than 55 movies were
filmed (e.g., Vertigo, Mrs. Doubtfire, Basic Studio Tours, TV Audiences & Extras
Instinct, The Rock, Contagion, The Pursuit of Other ways to get a glimpse of the enter-
Happyness). Down the coast a bit, the Mon- tainment business are to take a studio
terey Movie Tours winds through Monterey, tour, attend a live taping of a TV show or
Pacific Grove and Carmel, spotlighting loca- sign up to be an extra in a movie.
tions of other films; still farther south, a Although there are movie studios in
more active tour put together by the Santa other parts of California, including Pixar
Barbara Bicycle Coalition cycles along two Animation Studios and Lucasfilm in the
Sideways (2004) routes. You can also devise San Francisco Bay Area, most are located in
your own itinerary up and down the state and around Los Angeles. Those that offer
and visit the locations of your favorite behind-the-scenes studio tours include
movies shot in California. Warner Bros. (peek into the costume and
Perhaps you’re nostalgic for classic films prop room for the Harry Potter movies),
such as American Graffiti (1973), shot in Universal (Hollywood’s most famous

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 47
MOVIES
GATEWAY TO Universal Studios
» GO TO
THE MOVIES
Hollywood, right.

MOVIE LOCATIONS
Beverly Hills
greystonemansion.org
Inglewood
randysdonuts.com
Los Angeles
hollywoodmovietours.com
dearlydepartedtours.com
ultimatehollywoodtours.com
Monterey
montereymovietours.com
San Francisco
sanfranciscomovietours.com
Santa Barbara
bike-
santabarbara.org/rides/DIY/DIY.html
Sonoma County
sonoma-
county.org/film/moviemap.htm
Stockton
riverboatdaves.com/docs/cmovies.html
Regional Film Offices
film.ca.gov
Statewide
backlot, 13 city blocks on four acres in the
movie-locations.com
world’s largest working movie studio),
STUDIO TOURS
Sony Pictures (formerly the historic MGM Paramount
studios famous for Gone with the Wind and paramountstudiotour.com
Sony
The Wizard of Oz) and Paramount studios sonypicturesstudiostours.com
Universal
(the one remaining studio that is still
universalstudioshollywood.com
located in Hollywood). Many movies that Warner Bros.
wbtour.com
are shot on location outside LA also often Watch a Movie
have scenes shot on a studio soundstage. While in LA, consider doing what Ange- JOIN A STUDIO AUDIENCE
On Camera Audiences
Check for tickets before going on a studio lenos love to do: watch movies. During the on-camera-audiences.com
tour because many require advance tick- summer, enjoy a classic film under 1iota
1iota.com
eting or reservations. Ask your guide if you starlight with the dead and the living at the Audience Associates
tvtix.com
can take a peek into a current movie shoot Hollywood Forever Cemetery, going on its Audiences Unlimited
and you may spot a celebrity walking by. 15th season. tvtickets.com
Game shows, talk shows and TV Catch a movie where many directors BECOME AN EXTRA
comedy shows often need a live audience. screen their films and sometimes key off Central Casting
centralcasting.com/LA/actors
Free studio audience tickets are handled audience reactions to tweak a scene or two Casting Networks
home.sfcasting.com/casting-calls
through distributors such as On Camera at the AMC/IMAX Century City 15 Theatres
Be in a Movie
Audiences and 1iota. at Westfield Century City shopping center. beinamovie.com
Becoming a film extra isn’t as easy as it Pay homage to the pioneers of the motion FILM BUFF
might seem. There are a number of services picture era by watching a silent film on the Hollywood Forever Cemetery
summer movie screenings
SUPANNEE HICKMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK

that do casting calls for extras such as Cen- second Saturday of the month at The Silent cinespia.org
Pacific Film Archive
tral Casting in Los Angeles or Casting Movie Theatre, a recently restored, Art
bampfa.berkeley.edu
Networks in San Francisco. Often you are Deco cultural landmark built in 1942. The Silent Movie Theatre
cinefamily.org/films/the-silent-treatment
required to sign up and provide a headshot. When you next watch a movie filmed in Street Food Cinema
If you do get cast as an extra, it requires the state, remember that not only are you streetfoodcinema.com
Westfield Century City
patience as you can stand around all day experiencing the drama of life, you’re also westfield.com/centurycity/movies
with nothing to do. getting a taste of California.

48 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
RAILWAY JOURNEYS BY JEFF GREENWALD & LAURIE WEED

Hear My Train a Comin’


All aboard for panoramic views and a blast of nostalgia

with train robbery reenactment) or take


the whole family along for a relaxed hol-
iday, you’re sure to find at least one train
ride that shakes your caboose.

Amtrak Adventures
The gold standard of California rail trips is
arguably Amtrak’s Coast Starlight. Before
crossing the border into Oregon, north-
bound passengers experience the full
spectrum of California’s greatest hits.
Whether you board at Los Angeles’ Union
Station or Oakland’s Jack London Square,
Can you hear that whistle blow? His- you’ll pass snow-capped peaks, gorgeous
AMTRAK
toric, romantic, immortalized in legend forests and shimmering shorelines. The
Founded in 1971 to provide
intercity passenger train service and song, a train journey goes beyond full trip, from Los Angeles to Seattle (or
across the country, Amtrak mere transportation—it’s an experience, reverse), takes 35 hours.
serves 46 of the 50 states and one that recalls the Golden Age of travel. But accolades for the “most beautiful
three Canadian provinces on
With the historic completion of the first train trip in North America” are lavished on
21,000 miles (34,000 km) of track.
transcontinental rail line in 1876, travelers Amtrak’s California Zephyr, a 51-hour
Passengers enjoy themselves in
st
the lounge car, above; the Coast could suddenly reach the 31 state from the adventure linking the Bay Area with
Starlight passes Mount Shasta, East Coast in a seemingly magical four Chicago. The daily departure boards in
above right. days—a journey that previously took many Emeryville (right across the bay from San
perilous weeks, even months, to complete. Francisco) and crosses two mountain
California’s fame and fortune were built on ranges—the Sierra Nevada to Reno, and the
those long lines of track, some would say, Rockies to Denver—with unparalleled
and Californians still love their trains—not vistas. You can also disembark at Truckee to
just for nostalgic reasons. There’s no better explore Lake Tahoe, a stress-and-traffic-free
way to view the state’s magnificently alternative to crawling over the summit in
diverse landscapes, from breathtaking your own vehicle. If you’re drawn to a desert
coastal bluffs lapped by Pacific surf to red- crossing, Amtrak’s Southwest Chief con-
wood forests, vast shimmering deserts, nects LA with Chicago via the Mojave. The
alpine lakes and towering mountain peaks. Sunset Limited/Texas Eagle—Amtrak’s most
Whether you prefer to sip fine Napa southern route—joins LA with New Orleans
AMTRAK

wines in a luxuriously restored Pullman and Chicago via Tucson, San Antonio and
car, ride the rails Old West-style (complete Houston.

50 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
RAILWAY JOURNEYS

THE COAST STARLIGHT hugs the Pacific


north of Santa Barbara, right.

Three other popular California train


routes are operated by Amtrak, all of which
accommodate bicycles and offer free Wi- ticket. Lunch trains run daily, with winery days when logs harvested in the Sierras were
Fi service. The Capital Corridor, beloved by tours available. For their frequent dinner delivered to the fast-growing settlements in
business commuters, runs from San Jose train schedule and popular special events, the Central Valley.
to Auburn (via Sacramento), crossing the please visit the website (see sidebar).
state’s agricultural Central Valley. The Departing from Woodland, the Sacra- Second Childhood
much more scenic Pacific Surfliner, a six- mento RiverTrain features beer, wine, fine Speaking of super-short train rides, a peren-
hour run that skirts the Pacific, joins San food and live music as it follows the Sacra- nial favorite is the Redwood Valley Railway
Luis Obispo and San Diego (via Santa Bar- mento River on a three-hour, 32-mile trip. in Tilden Park, Berkeley. The 12-minute
bara and Los Angeles). Travelers can There are several specialty rides, including ride—with hand-built steam locomotives
arrange trips to Yosemite via the San Sunset Dinners, Great Train Robberies, pulling open-bed flatcars—chugs through
Joaquin line to Fresno or Merced, where a Beer Trains and Murder Mysteries. rustic tunnels and around wooded curves,
waiting bus will ferry them to the national Another option is the Sierra Dinner Train, with (season permitting) panoramic views
park. The San Joaquin joins the San Fran- which runs on one of several rail lines of San Francisco Bay. Tickets are $3, a five-
th
cisco Bay Area and Oakland to Los Angeles built in the late 19 century to link the ride ticket only $12, and children under two
via Sacramento, Fresno and Bakersfield. Gold Country with the Central Valley. ride free. It’s a real family experience—even
Today, the excursion “provides visitors an dogs are welcome!
Excursion Favorites opportunity to travel on the historic Sierra
Until 1930, tourists visiting Mt. Tamal- Railroad while enjoying a delicious meal,
pais—the Bay Area’s signature 2,574-foot
peak—could board the Mt. Tamalpais &
Muir Woods Railway: “The Crookedest
beautiful countryside and a wide range of
entertainment.” Passengers board in Oak-
dale, 90 miles east of San Francisco (70
» CATCH
A TRAIN!
Railroad in the World.” Though that line miles south of Sacramento). Both the
was sadly dismantled, there are still plenty Sacramento River and Sierra lines also Amtrak
of unusual steam-and-theme excursions offer Zombie Train experiences: “One part amtrak.com
available to the 21st-century traveler. These passenger train, one part zombie killing Skunk Train
skunktrain.com
include Mendocino’s irresistible Skunk machine.” Just sayin’.
Train. Starting at the coastal town of Fort Napa Valley Wine Train
winetrain.com
Bragg, the Skunk navigates some 30 Historic Revivals
bridges, trestles and tunnels on its 40-mile A variety of shorter train rides lace through Sacramento RiverTrain
sacramentorivertrain.com
journey between Fort Bragg and Willits. the California landscape, recreating (more or
Following an old redwood lumber delivery less) a taste of what travel was like for settlers Sierra Railroad: Oakdale
sierrarailroad.com
route, it’s said to be one of the “Ten most of the 1800s. Santa Cruz’s Roaring Camp
scenic train rides” in North America. Railroad offers a Beach Train from Felton to Roaring Camp Railroad
roaringcamp.com
Book your tickets early for the popular the Santa Cruz shore, or a steam train into
Yosemite Mountain Sugar
Napa Valley Wine Train, with three-hour the Bear Mountain redwood forests. With Pine Railroad
round trips in “meticulously restored rail several trips daily plus a regular “Moonlight ymsprr.com
cars” between Napa and St. Helena in Cali- Special,” which includes a BBQ and campfire Redwood Valley Railway
AMTRAK

fornia’s wine country. Enjoy a la carte or sing-along, the narrow-gauge Yosemite redwoodvalleyrailway.com
gourmet dining, depending on your class of Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad recalls the

52 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
ROAD TRIPS
BY JOHN FLINN

Get Behind the Wheel and Go


Explore California’s highways and byways

JEROME KUNDROTAS/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: ASIF ISLAM/SHUTTERSTOCK; SUPPAVUT VARUTBANGKUL; RADOSLAW LECYK/SHUTTERSTOCK


FAMOUS BRIDGES
The Golden Gate Bridge, above,
might be America’s most famous
bridge, but it’s not alone when it
Californians didn’t invent the car, but there’s no doubt that the road that hugs the
comes to notable structures in
they like to think, with some justification, state’s remarkable coastline, often close
California. The San Francisco Bay
that they invented the automobile lifestyle. enough to feel the salt spray, offers one of
Bridge with its new eastern span
is a breathtaking workhorse
With drive-thru grocery stores, drive- the world’s classic driving trips.
linking SF and Oakland, and the thru pharmacies, drive-thru churches and From sun-splashed Southern California
Bixby Bridge in Big Sur, opposite, even drive-thru mortuaries, one gets the beaches to the misty redwood forests near
is emblematic of California’s feeling that if Californians could only the Oregon border, the journey, which
rugged coast and Highway 1. invent a drive-thru delivery room they includes a few stretches on other high-
could happily go from cradle to grave ways, is a touch over 1,000 miles.
without ever having to pull over to the curb. The sights are so numerous we can
California is a land of supersized dis- barely scratch the surface: The Hotel Del
tances, jumbo landscapes and big-gulp Coronado, where Marilyn Monroe frol-
vistas, and the best way to see it all is on a icked in Some Like It Hot; classic surf
road trip, or, better yet, a series of road breaks made famous by the Beach Boys;
trips. Here are a few of our favorites. star-studded Malibu; Riviera-like Santa
Barbara; Hearst Castle; Big Sur; Santa
Up the Coast Cruz, with its old-timey beach boardwalk;
Northern Californians call it “Highway 1” San Francisco; Point Reyes National
and Southern Californians call it the “Pacific Seashore; artsy Mendocino; Redwood
Coast Highway”—or, simply, the “PCH”—but National Park.

54 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BIXBY BRIDGE on Highway 1, Big
Sur, left; Hotel del Coronado, San
Diego, below; you have two
choices when you hit Highway
395, LA or Bishop, bottom.

A few tips: Allow far more time than you Highway 395 grazes the shore of enor-
think you need; besides the frequent diver- mous Mono Lake, which is so alkaline
sions, the road is so winding in places it’s Mark Twain once joked he could do his
hard to average more than 30 miles per laundry merely by dragging it behind him
hour. If you’re prone to carsickness, this in a boat. In Bishop, the studio of the late
isn’t the trip for you. Keep your gas tank photographer Galen Rowell has become a
full and your bladder empty. In some areas, major attraction. Stop at Manzanar, just off
particularly Big Sur, it’s more than 40 miles the highway, for a poignant visit to the site
between gas stations—and restrooms. of a relocation camp for Americans of
Japanese heritage during World War II. In
Cowboys & Indians Lone Pine, the Indian Trading Post sports
East of the Sierra Nevada the green, popu- autographs on the wall from Gary Cooper,
lated West Coast ends and the brown, John Wayne and other cinematic cowboys
sagebrush-covered West begins. This is who filmed Westerns in the nearby Ala-
the Old Frontier of our imagination, a bama Hills.
realm of real cowboys and real Indians A few tips: Springtime, when the Sierra
(and also, as we shall see, of cinematic is still clad in snow, is the prettiest time for
cowboys and Indians.) the drive, although some side trips may be
Highway 395 hugs the state’s eastern limited. For an overnight stop, the town of
border, and the 264-mile stretch of high Bishop offers the largest selection of
desert from Reno to Lone Pine, which motels and restaurants.
passes tumbleweeds, swinging-door
saloons and ghost towns beneath the
breathtakingly sheer eastern wall of the
Sierra Nevada, is one of California’s most
iconic drives.
The northern stretch traverses ranch-
land that was once—and sometimes still
is—the domain of Basque sheepherders,
and in the town of Gardnerville, just over
the border in Nevada, you have your choice
of excellent Basque restaurants. As you
drive south, keep an eye out for cowboys,
although these days they’re as likely to be
riding an all-terrain vehicle as a horse. Far-
ther south, as you approach Mono Lake,
you’ll probably encounter members of the
Washoe and Paiute tribes.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 55
ROAD TRIPS

AN F-LINE HISTORIC streetcar


passes the Ferry Building on the
Embarcadero, San Francisco,
below; a passenger ship docks at
San Francisco’s cruise ship
terminal, right; Dodger Stadium
in Los Angeles, opposite top;
San Diego from Seaport Village,
opposite bottom.

of San Francisco’s skyscrapers you’ll come


to Muir Woods National Monument, a
cathedral-like preserve of old-growth red-
woods at the foot of Mount Tamalpais.
Follow Highway 1 to Point Reyes National
Seashore, where you might catch tule elk
grazing on misty hillsides above the wave-
battered coast. West Marin County, with its
organic farms, artisanal bakeries and

PIKAPPA51/SHUTTERSTOCK; TURTIX/SHUTTERSTOCK; PUNG/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: DISCOVER LA; GIMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK


gourmet cheesemakers, is the breadbasket
for San Francisco’s foodie culture. Stop for
lunch at the Hog Island Oyster Farm, where
you can munch on bivalve mollusks pulled
straight out of Tomales Bay. The long,
narrow bay, incidentally, is a submerged
section of the notorious San Andreas Fault.
Farther north on Highway 1 you’ll come to
Bodega Bay, a sleepy fishing village where
Alfred Hitchcock unleashed avian terror in
The Birds. The Tides restaurant, where ter-
rified townspeople took shelter, is still
there, although hardly recognizable in its
Day Trips current form. A few miles inland, in the
PICK YOUR
»
You don’t have to spend days or weeks on separate town of Bodega, you can find the

HIGHWAY the highway to see the best of California. familiar schoolhouse and church from the
Within easy reach of major cities are exqui- movie. Continue on to Sebastopol,
site road trips you can do in less than a day. renowned for its juicy Gravenstein apples
CA-1 The Coast and an outpost of Sonoma County’s wine
pacific-coast-highway-travel.com San Francisco country. Turn south on Highway 101 and

US-395 Eastern Sierra


Head north, across the Golden Gate Bridge, head back to San Francisco, stopping for a
aaroads.com/California/us-395_ca to sample some of Northern California’s celebratory cocktail in Sausalito, with the
most bucolic scenery. Almost within sight lights of the city twinkling across the bay.

56 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Los Angeles
On a day trip along the Angeles Crest Scenic
Byway you’re more likely to spot a bighorn
sheep than a Kardashian. As you wind up
and over narrow ridgetops in the San
Gabriel Mountains, above the smog, your
vistas can range from the vast, chocolate-
brown Mojave Desert to Catalina Island.
Also known as State Highway 2, the 66-
mile-long Angeles Crest Scenic Byway was
built 100 years ago to be “the most scenic
and picturesque mountain road in the
state.” Access it from the suburb of La
Canada Flintridge at the western end of the
San Gabriel Valley. The popular side-trip you step out of your car. Stop for a slice, A local landowner commissioned artist
hike to the summit of 6,164-foot Strawberry just out of the oven, warm and gooey with Ricardo Arroyo Breceda to produce more
Peak reopened in 2014 after being closed a scoop of French vanilla ice cream. The air than 130 giant sculptures in the desert,
since 2009 due to a fire. As you drive east here is so clean, and the views so exten- everything from life-size replicas of gom-
on the narrow two-lane road, keep an eye sive, that the California Institute of photheres (elephant-like creatures that
out for bears, mountain lions and bighorn Technology built the Palomar Observatory once lived there) to prehistoric camels and
sheep. Another side trip brings you to the a few miles away. Continue east, downhill, ground sloths to scenes from California
Mount Wilson Observatory, where on Highway 78 to Anza-Borrego Desert history: a Spanish padre, a gold miner and
astronomers found the first observational State Park, a 937-square-mile preserve that farmworkers. One of the latest is the
evidence for the Big Bang theory. If you’ve encompasses the eastern fifth of San undisputed highlight: an enormous sea
brought along your fishing rod, try your Diego County. If it’s spring, and the winter serpent that undulates so far across the
luck in Little Rock Creek near the Mt. has been wet, you’ll be treated to one of desert that it spans one of the main roads.
Waterman Ski Resort. Farther east, the road the most vivid and sweeping displays of From here you can retrace your route or
crosses the 2,665-mile-long Pacific Crest wildflowers in the United States. If the take the long way home via the Salton Sea
National Scenic Trail: From here you can flowers aren’t up, there’s still plenty to see. and Palm Springs.
hike south to Mexico or north to Canada.
From the road’s end at Highway 138, head
southeast to Interstate 15, which will whisk
you back to the Los Angeles Basin.

San Diego
Cross the Palomar Mountains to soak up
the vast and colorful Anza-Borrego desert
on a daylong drive from San Diego. Make
your way north on I-15 and east to
Ramona, and then continue on to the
ridgetop town of Julian. A beautifully pre-
served relic of an 1870s gold rush, Julian
these days is renowned for apples. You’ll
smell the aroma of baking pies as soon as

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 57
STATE & NATIONAL PARKS BY BONNIE SMETTS

Stay and Play


Spend a day or fill a week exploring California’s natural grandeur

DELAWARE NORTH IN YOSEMITE PARK. OPPOSITE: M01229/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; NOANYFRAMES/SHUTTERSTOCK; WADE TREGASKIS/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR
YOSEMITE
NATIONAL PARK
First protected by Abraham Lincoln
in 1864, then championed by John
Muir to become a national park in
1890, Yosemite is one of America’s Make friends with banana slugs on a something for everyone. Come in spring
most beloved and visited national tour of the redwoods. Snorkel through a when the waterfalls thunder to the valley
parks. It is known for its soaring
kelp forest at an offshore island. floor. Come in summer when the park is
granite cliffs and majestic waterfalls
as well as some of the country’s
Thrill at the sight of a rare condor abuzz with visitors to explore by tram, bike
most dramatic and accessible floating above the spires of California’s or on foot. Choose a gentle half-hour hike
backcountry wilderness. Yosemite newest park. Whatever your passion, Cal- or reserve a spot for the all-day climb of
Valley, where most visitors spend ifornia’s 279 state parks and 32 national Half Dome. Junior Ranger Walks are pop-
much of their time, has a wide range
parks, seashores and monuments— ular with kids. Backpackers can enjoy the
of recreational activities, including
cycling to see the sights, the best
whose mission is to protect the state’s solitude of the park’s high country and
way to get around. natural and cultural treasures—are the expert rock climbers have dozens of
gateway to experiences as varied as the granite walls to scale. Don’t leave the park
state’s geography. without stopping at Glacier Point with its
views of Half Dome and Yosemite Valley or
Yosemite & the Sierra Nevada at the Mariposa Grove of giant sequoias to
Yosemite National Park, with its glacier- marvel at its 2,700-year-old Grizzly Giant.
sculpted valley and granite peaks, has To see a really big tree—the world’s

58 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
EMERALD BAY, LAKE TAHOE, left; giant sequoia forest,
below, and a California black bear, bottom, both in
Redwood National and State Parks.

largest by volume—head south to Sequoia


and Kings Canyon National Parks and
marvel at the weighty General Sherman.
While still in the mountains, take a trip to
Lake Tahoe, North America’s largest alpine
lake. Along the lake’s west shore, D.L. Bliss,
Emerald Bay and Sugar Pine Point state
parks offer camping, hiking and white
sand beaches. Farther north at Lassen Vol-
canic National Park, watch California take
shape in the roaring fumaroles, thumping
mud pots and boiling pools.

Giants in the Mist


While the Sierras are home to the heftiest
redwoods, the state’s fog-shrouded coastal
range from Oregon to Big Sur boasts the
loftiest—several are taller than the Statue Farther north and closer to the coast, the
of Liberty. These rare trees, once logged to Redwood National and State Parks is a col-
near extinction, are now protected within lection of four parks with miles of
California’s redwood parks. unspoiled coast and hiking trails. The
At Humboldt Redwoods State Park, tallest recorded Coast Redwood hides here,
home to the largest continuous old growth its location kept secret to protect it. How-
redwood forest on earth, drive the 31-mile ever, you can visit the remote Tall Trees
Avenue of the Giants and make stops along Grove if you have a day to spare and want
the way to stroll among the titans. to nab one of the 50 daily permits. But all
Founders Grove with its majestic 346-foot the parks provide easy access to magnifi-
specimen is always a favorite. Visit in cent groves as well as picnic sites,
spring to see the pink redwood lilies and campgrounds and trails for hikers, cyclists
purple calypso orchids in bloom. and horses.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 59
STATE & NATIONAL PARKS
Burning Sands & Delicate Wildflowers
Miles from the coast, California’s deserts
are lands of extremes. Vast Death Valley
National Park holds the record for the
hottest temperature, driest climate and
lowest elevation in North America. It is
also famous for its explosion of wild-
flowers after winter rains. For a bird’s-eye
panorama, stop at Dante’s View. On the
valley floor, walk the Badwater Salt Flats or
take an afternoon drive to Zabriskie Point
to snap the garishly colored badlands. At
Scotty’s Castle, take a living-history tour to
sample the life of one of the valley’s most
colorful settlers. Trips to Titus Canyon and
the Racetrack take you deeper into the
park’s unique landscape, but only for those
with proper vehicles and preparation. Fur-

CHRIS GRANT/SHUTTERSTOCK; ANTON FOLTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: RANDY ANDY/SHUTTERSTOCK; LUCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK


nace Creek Campground, one of nine in
the park, with sites for RVs, groups and
tents, makes for a central location for
exploring the park. Because of favorable
weather and temperatures, fall to spring is
the park’s busiest time.
The Mojave National Preserve is famous
for its singing sand dunes and seven-mil-
lion-year-old volcanic cinder cones. Joshua
Tree National Park, a favorite with rock
climbers, mountain bikers and birders, is
home to the gangly tree that gives the park
its name. While both have spring wild-
flower displays, Anza-Borrego Desert State
Park is legendary. Its flowers are usually
the first to burst into color—catching the
park’s cactus bloom is the prize.

To the Beach
JOSHUA TREES in, A visit to California is incomplete without
appropriately, Joshua spending time on the beach, but not all of
Tree National Park,
them are the iconic white sandy kind. You
above; blooming barrel
cacti in Mojave National will find black sand at Sinkyone Wilder-
Preserve, right. ness State Park on the north coast. At the
Mendocino Headlands State Park, bundle
up and enjoy a beach walk with a view of
the Victorian village.

60 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BROWN PELICANS on the rugged Big
Sur coastline near Cambria, below; dining
room and table settings at Hearst Castle,
San Simeon, right.

Closer to San Francisco, the sweeping


arc of Point Reyes National Seashore is
home to a dozen beaches, with drive-up
Drakes Beach and hike-in Limantour as Rocks to Castles Hollywood stars who gathered there. Also
favorites. Make your way to park headlands California is more than its geography. at mid state, climbers and birders will not
in early spring to view the gray whale Living history programs bring the past to be disappointed at Pinnacles, California’s
migration. Edging the entrance to San life in many parks. Indian Grinding Rock newest national park.
Francisco Bay, the beaches and cliff trails State Historic Park features a reconstructed Whatever kind of experience you seek,
of the Golden Gate National Recreation village with a ceremonial roundhouse and from a city adventure to a high country
Area are the gateways to urban adventures presentations by descendants of the trek, California’s parks have just what
and historic sights such as Alcatraz Island. Miwoks. The 21 missions founded by the you’re looking for.
Continuing down the coast to Santa Spanish along El Camino Real, or the
Cruz and Monterey, surfing spots alternate King’s Highway, preserve the arrival of
with quiet coves home to sea otters and
seals. At Año Nuevo State Reserve, witness
non-natives to California. Imagine mis-
sion life at La Purisima Mission State » FIND
YOUR PARK
elephant seals in breeding season. In Historic Park, one of the best along the His-
Carmel, whose beauty has been long toric Mission Trail. Old Town San Diego
favored by plein air artists, Point Lobos State Historic Park, with its restored plaza Individual State Parks
parks.ca.gov
State Natural Reserve is a must-visit for and adobes, captures the period when San
everyone. Big Sur’s Julia Pfeiffer Burns Diego grew from a Mexican pueblo into an National Parks
nps.gov/state/CA
State Park offers stunning views of the American town. And then there’s gold
rugged coast from its cliff-side trails. fever. Pan for gold at Marshall Gold Dis- Campsites & Lodging Reservations
reserveamerica.com
Access to Pfeiffer Beach, a day beach, is just covery State Historic Park where the recreation.gov
south of the Big Sur Ranger Station. mineral was first discovered. Visualize a
Lighthouses
At mid coast, rocky cliffs finally give miner’s life at Bodie State Historic Park, an (many open to the public, some
way to warm water and California’s famous intact ghost town from the era. offering accommodations)
nps.gov/maritime/inventories/
endless flat beaches. Movie buffs can camp No place reflects California’s big lights/ca.htm
at Malibu Creek State Park where M*A*S*H dreamers better than the Hearst San
Wildflower Updates at
and Planet of the Apes were filmed. And Simeon State Historical Monument, a tes- Anza-Borrego Desert State Park
then there’s Huntington Beach, aka Surf tament to publisher William Randolph Wildflower Hotline
760-767-4684
City USA. Huntington State Beach’s soft Hearst and architect Julia Morgan. Tour Or check the park’s website
sand, safe swimming and good surfing the 115-room castle and imagine the at parks.ca.gov.
make it the California classic. presidents, publishing luminaries and

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 61
ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

Building in Harmony
Californians have always embraced the new and environmentally attuned

sons and, of course, worship. Today, you


can find information about all things Mis-
sion online at the California Missions
Resource Center.

Missions to Victorians to Beaux Arts


The missions influenced California archi-
tecture and design for years to come. The
abundant open spaces, arches, tile-roofed
buildings and breezy arcades of Stanford
University’s main quad are legacies of the
Mission colonial era. The ornately  and
eclectically elaborated Casa de Balboa, in
San Diego’s Balboa Park, incorporates ele-
ments of the Mission Revival style. The

FILOLI Architecture in California and the lush splendid 1927  San Gabriel Mission Play-
Sixteen acres of formal gardens public gardens that add grace notes to the house is a direct architectural descendant
surround the country house Golden State began to take shape in the late of the missions.
known as Filoli, designed by Willis th
18 century, when the Spanish advanced By the 1860s, long, deep, narrow, high-
Polk and built for William Bowers
north from Mexico City to the rustic, ceilinged wooden row houses populated
Bourn III in 1917. The site is now
owned by the National Trust for
remote province of Alta California. boomtowns like San Francisco. The Victo-
Historic Preservation and is a The California missions, 21 Roman
California Historical Landmark and Catholic churches built from 1769 to 1823 on
is listed on the National Register of a north-south axis, set the tone. The adobe-
Historic Places.
walled, orange-tile-roofed churches erected
by the Franciscan friars eventually formed
the heart of major cities such as San Diego,
Los Angeles and San Francisco. The mis-
sions’ gardens were strictly utilitarian,
intended to produce food. Eye-pleasing
garden design blossomed later.
The Spanish-flavored colonial buildings
fell into disrepair after the newly inde-
pendent Mexican government desanctified
them. After moldering for years, many
were reconstructed in the 20th century,
opening to the public for tours, history les-

62 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
THE DE YOUNG MUSEUM,
San Francisco, below; Walt Disney
Concert Hall, Los Angeles, right;
Montgomery Street and the
Transamerica Pyramid,
San Francisco, previous page, bottom.
RAFAEL RAMIREZ LEE/SHUTTERSTOCK; MR. INTERIOR/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: CHUCK B./CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; RANDY ANDY/SHUTTERSTOCK

rians were built from the 1860s to the fornians’ deep feeling for nature. Such Frank Gehry’s brilliantly realized 2003
1910s. In the 1970s, the once-modest buildings, exemplified by the 1908 Gamble Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles,
houses were reborn as gentrified, vibrantly House in Pasadena, seemed to grow organ- with its swooping roofs and shining metallic
hued Painted Ladies. Surviving California ically out of the earth. The cedar brown exterior, is a fantasia that couldn’t have been
Victorians are especially numerous in San shingle wooden homes of Berkeley, fea- designed without sophisticated computers
Francisco, clustered on Alamo Square and tured on Berkeley Architecture Heritage or built without modern alloys. The perfo-
in the Haight-Ashbury, Western Addition Association walking tours, are pleasing rated copper exterior of San Francisco’s 2005
and Mission districts. Urban eye candy, examples of the American Arts and Crafts de Young Museum is of a piece with the con-
they are featured on City Guides San Fran- style. Berkeley affords glimpses of the Bay temporary, cutting edge work inside. For an
cisco walking tours. Region style, a version of Arts and Crafts artful fusion of modern technique and nat-
By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, practiced by Bay Area architects Bernard uralism, the environmentally attuned 2008
other, newer styles began catching on in Maybeck and Julia Morgan. home of the California Academy of Sciences
California. The streamlined power of early 20th- in Golden Gate Park is a must-see.
Beaux Arts architecture lent grandeur to century technology found mesmerizing
citadels of commerce and government form in the Art Deco style of the 1920s and Gardens North & South
buildings, bequeathing to San Francisco its 1930s. Perhaps the noblest example of Art Major formal public gardens in the
majestic, domed 1915 City Hall, and the Deco in North America is the 1937 Golden modern sense blossomed in California in
classically graceful, open-air Palace of Fine Gate Bridge. With its taut suspension the early 20th century, often in association
Arts. But Beaux Arts was a European cables, thrusting towers and trademark with great private fortunes, enormous
import, not essentially Californian. International Orange color, the Golden mansions and expansive public parks.
Gate Bridge dramatizes the energy, ambi- The Asian splendor of Hakone Garden,
Arts & Crafts to Computer Contemporary tion and power of Art Deco. opened in Saratoga in 1915, showed the way.
American Arts and Crafts became closely The next breakthrough for architecture Hailed as the oldest Japanese and Asian
associated with California at the turn of in California came around the turn of the estate garden in the Americas, Hakone is a
th
the 20 century. The use of natural mate- new millennium with what could be called loving replica of a traditional Samurai or
rials such as warm, burnished wood panels Computer Contemporary style. Here, too, Shogun estate garden. Spreading over 18
and beams, glass and stone reflected Cali- the Golden State shines. hilly acres, serene Hakone Garden is

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 63
ARCHITECTURE & GARDENS
quick succession, more major public gar-
dens followed.
Among them: 654-acre Filoli, nestled in
the hills of Woodside south of San Fran-
cisco. Debuting in 1975, Filoli is known for
CONSERVATORY of Flowers, San Francisco, lovely paths and ponds, a charming rose
right; roses in the Huntington Botanical garden, 250-year-old live oak trees and
Gardens, Pasadena, bottom. 16th-century English Renaissance Garden.
In 1985, Palo Alto opened its 2.5-acre Eliza-
beth F. Gamble Garden. In 1993, the former
known for koi ponds, waterfalls and was opened in 1956 in aptly named estate of Polish opera singer and socialite
strolling and meditative walks. Arcadia, with a lovely waterfall, Queen Ganna Walska opened near Santa Barbara
A decade later, in 1925, Casa del Her- Anne cottage and garden of perennials. as Lotusland, featuring fruit orchards, a
rero (House of the Blacksmith) opened its By mid century, great gardens were succulent garden and a butterfly garden.
decorative Spanish Colonial Revival man- blooming around the state. The Mendo- Each garden has its own charms and par-
sion, a style still hugely popular in host cino Coast Botanical Gardens (1961) shows ticularities, but every one shares California’s
city Santa Barbara. Today, the estate is off an inspired profusion of blooms on passionate embrace of the new, the innova-
also celebrated for its Moorish garden winding Highway 1 at Fort Bragg. In fairly tive and the environmentally attuned.
with its water fountain and hedged out-

HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTION, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS; CO LEONG/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: PHOTOGOLFER/SHUTTERSTOCK
doors “rooms.”
Both Los Angeles and San Francisco
host distinguished public botanical
» FIND YOUR STYLE & DESIGN
gardens. San Francisco debuted the erst-
while Strybing Arboretum in 1940 on
55 acres in Golden Gate Park. Now called ARCHITECTURE de Young Museum
California Missions Resource Center deyoung.famsf.org
San Francisco Botanical Garden, it is missionscalifornia.com
GARDENS
renowned for its rhododendron glen,
Main Quad, Stanford University Hakone Garden
magnolia collection, redwood grove and stanford.edu/dept/visitorinfo/tours hakone.com
native California plants. The Los Angeles
Casa de Balboa Casa del Herrero,
County Arboretum and Botanic Garden balboapark.org House of the Blacksmith
casadelherrero.com
San Gabriel Mission Playhouse
San Francisco Botanical Garden
missionplayhouse.org
(formerly Strybing Arboretum)
sfbotanicalgarden.org
Walking Tours of San Francisco
sfcityguides.org Los Angeles County Arboretum
& Botanic Garden
The Gamble House arboretum.org
gamblehouse.org
Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens
Maybeck Houses Tour of Berkeley gardenbythesea.org
(Berkeley Architectural
Heritage Association) Filoli
berkeleyheritage.com filoli.org

Golden Gate Bridge Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden


goldengatebridge.org gamblegarden.org

Walt Disney Concert Hall Ganna Walska Lotusland


laphil.com lotusland.org

64 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
GOLF
BY ROBERT KAUFMAN
Golden Glow
to California’s Golf Courses
Diverse geography provides a cornucopia of options to tee up

Ever since the game of golf originated in On that note, the good news for Cali-
the 15th century, the sport has continued to fornia golfers is there are more than 600
thrive with cooperation from an assort- public courses offering a broad range of
ment of landscapes to test player’s skills, iconic masterpieces like Pebble Beach Golf
and nowhere is that diversity more distinct Links to hidden gems like Greenhorn
MONTEREY than throughout California. Mother Nature Creek Golf Course in the Gold Country. The
PENINSULA has bestowed this land of mountains, val- bad news is there are too many choices!
One of the world’s top golf
leys, forests, coastline and desert with a Therefore, depending upon one’s level of
destinations, the Monterey Peninsula
heavenly canvas to provide a foundation of golf and preferred environment, here are
is home to the legendary Pebble
Beach Golf Links, above, as well as
fairways and greens that make the Golden some notable nuggets that will help unlock
several other top golf courses, State one of the most attractive golf desti- a golf experience of a lifetime.
including Spyglass Hill, the Links at nations on the planet.
Spanish Bay, Poppy Hills and Pacific To take advantage of these geological OCEAN COURSES
Grove Golf Links, fondly known as assets, a who’s-who of golf course archi- Pebble Beach Golf Links
the “poor man’s Pebble Beach.” tects, from old-school designers like Located along the storied Monterey Penin-
Alister MacKenzie, A.W. Tillinghast and sula, there are few golf thrills like
Willie Watson to modern-day shapers such teeing-up for the first time on Pebble
as Jack Nicklaus, Robert Trent Jones, Sr. & Beach Golf Links, ranked No. 1 on Golf
Jr., Arnold Palmer and Tom Fazio have Digest’s “America’s 100 Greatest Public Golf
crafted their mark with challenges to suit Courses” (2013/14). At the Jack Neville/
every golfer’s taste and budget. Douglas Grant design (1919), golfers can

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 65
GOLF

WHITEHAWK RANCH GOLF CLUB, feel the presence of the game’s biggest leg- MOUNTAIN COURSES
below; Presidio Golf Course, bottom. ends that have competed in the annual Whitehawk Ranch Golf Club
AT&T Pebble Beach National Pro-Am and Carved from the natural terrain of the
five U.S. Open Championships. Jack Nick- Mohawk Valley, approximately one hour
laus said, “If I only had one more round to north of Lake Tahoe in the Plumas National
play, I would choose to play it at Pebble Forest, the fairways are framed with native
Beach.” pebblebeach.com grasses and a profusion of wildflowers.
Seven meandering streams through tall
Spyglass Hill Golf Course pines, cedars, firs and quaking aspens con-
Taking a page from Robert Louis tribute to the challenge and beauty of the
Stevenson’s classic novel, Treasure Island, 6,955-yard, Dick Bailey-designed course.
Spyglass has hole names such as “Black golfwhitehawk.com
Dog” and “Billy Bones,” hints for the
unwary at this demanding 6,960-yard Coyote Moon Golf Course
layout. Designed (1966) by Robert Trent Nestled in a serene setting at 6,800 feet above
Jones, Sr., holes 6, 8 and 16 are listed sea level in Truckee (Lake Tahoe) among
among the toughest on the PGA Tour. Spy- towering pines and enormous granite out-
glass features two distinctly different croppings, the 7,177-yard Brad Bell design
kinds of terrain that influence how the serves up one of the best mountain golf expe-
fairways look and play: the first five holes riences in the country. With generous
roll through sandy seaside dunes while the fairways and not a single home to spoil the
remaining 13 holes cut through majestic dramatic views, this upscale daily-fee course
pines with elevated greens and strategi- provides dramatic elements of risk,
th
cally placed bunkers and lakes to grab including the 13 , a 200-yard par 3 that drops
errant shots. pebblebeach.com 80 feet from tee to green. coyotemoongolf.com

DESERT COURSES
PGA West—TPC Stadium Course
Since opening in 1986, the TPC Stadium
Course in La Quinta has been rated one of
the “Top 100 Courses in the World” by
GOLF Magazine. This 7,300-yard challenge
designed by Pete Dye hosts PGA Tour “Q-
School” Finals every other year with
players having to navigate cavernous
bunkers, an island green (known as “Alca-
traz”) at hole #17 as well as the menacing
water-lined 18th. Named “Stadium” due to
Dye’s ingenious plan to sculpt spectator
seating into the natural terrain, one of the
most memorable events includes Lee
ROBERT KAUFMAN

Trevino’s hole-in-one on #17 earning him


$175,000 from a carry-over skin in the 1987
“Skins Game.” pgawest.com

66 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
» FIND
TPC HARDING PARK, right;
Pasatiempo Golf Club, below.
YOUR GOLF

MORE TOP CHOICES


Old Greenwood
oldgreenwoodgolf.com
Edgewood Tahoe Golf Course
edgewoodtahoe.com
Greenhorn Creek Golf Course
greenhorncreek.com
Sierra Star Golf Club
mammothmountain.com/summer/
golf/sierra-star-golf-course
The Links at Bodega Harbour
bodegaharbourgolf.com
Yocha Dehe Golf Club
yochadehegolfclub.com
Windsor Golf Club
windsorgolf.com
Chardonnay Golf Club
chardonnaygolfclub.com
Presidio Golf Course
Indian Wells Golf Resort The memorable layout hosts the annual presidiogolf.com

Only 20 minutes from Palm Springs Inter- LPGA Kia Classic and rewards all golfers The Course at Wente Vineyards
wentevineyards.com/course
national Airport, golfers have the with Tootsie Roll Pops during the round
Pasatiempo Golf Course
opportunity to play the newly transformed and chocolate chip cookies after. Golfers pasatiempo.com
Players Course (John Fought, 2007) and can also get a tune-up at the nationally Bayonet & Black Horse Golf
Courses
Celebrity Course (Clive Clark, 2006), at a ranked Kip Puterbaugh Golf Academy. bbhgolf.com
property with the distinction of being the golfaviara.com Alisal Guest Ranch & Resort
only 36-hole public golf facility with both alisal.com

courses on Golfweek’s “Best Courses You TPC Harding Park La Purisima Golf Course
lapurisimagolf.com
Can Play” in California. Combined with a Traversing a gently rolling peninsula sur-
Sandpiper Golf Course
lighted, 9-hole, natural grass putting rounded by Monterey Cypress trees and sandpipergolf.com
course and a brand new 53,000-square- Lake Merced in San Francisco, the 7,169- Pelican Hill Golf Club
golfpelicanhill.com
foot clubhouse, this “muni” golf yard layout follows the original routing
Rustic Canyon Golf Course
experience in the desert is unparalleled. designed in 1925 by architects Willie rusticcanyongolfcourse.com
indianwellsgolfresort.com Watson and Sam Whiting. Also included is Journey at Pechanga
the interior 9-hole Fleming Course. In pechanga.com/golf

PARKLAND COURSES 2005, Harding’s strategy and character was Tustin Ranch Golf Club
tustinranchgolf.com
Aviara Golf Club substantially enhanced with additional
Torrey Pines Golf Course
Located in Carlsbad, the “Golf Manufac- bunkers, re-contoured green complexes torreypinesgolfcourse.com
turing Capital of the World” with more and an additional 400 yards to prepare the La Costa Resort & Spa
omnihotels.com/hotels/san-diego-la-
than 35 golf companies, including Call- course for PGA Tour action that, so far, has costa/golf
away, TaylorMade and Titleist, the Arnold included the 2009 Presidents Cup, 2005 The Grand Golf Club
Palmer-designed Aviara GC overlooks the WGC-American Express Championship fairmont.com/san-diego/golf

Batiquitos Lagoon nature preserve where and 2015 WGC Match Play. Harding’s rich The Classic Club
classicclubgolf.com
it is sculpted around rolling hillsides com- history continues in 2020 with the PGA
Tahquitz Creek Golf Resort
plemented with native wildflowers and Championship, and the Presidents Cup in tahquitzgolfresort.com
plenty of bunker and water challenges. 2025. tpc.com/tpc-harding-park.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 67
SUMMER SPORTS BY BILL FINK

Fun in the Sun


California’s summer sunshine, seashores and soaring mountain summits
serve as inspiration to get outdoors and play

HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB. OPPOSITE: RON BERG; TRINITY COUNTY; RACHAEL GOLDBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK
BEACH
VOLLEYBALL
The de facto state sport on
California’s 840 miles of coastline The California ideal of sun, surf and sand the Strand. Drive the hills near San Fran-
has to be beach volleyball. Players of
has been popularized in decades of film cisco on a sunny day, and in a matter of
all skill levels up and down the coast
and TV shows, from Beach Blanket Bingo to minutes you’ll pass pelotons of road bikers,
jump in for informal games, such as
this foursome at Huntington Beach, Baywatch. But visitors to California in the and hikers, horseback riders and mountain
above. It’s generally accepted that summer can discover even more of the bikers launching onto trailheads. In the
California beach volleyball began in state’s natural beauty heading inland to shadow of the Golden Gate Bridge, fleets of
Santa Monica in the 1920s, then
majestic national parks. sailboats ride ocean breezes, while the
grew more organized with
wind powers kiteboarders and windsurfers
competitions over the decades, and
eventually became an Olympic Sports into acrobatics as mellow joggers and their
sport in 1996. Take a walk to the pier in Manhattan Beach dogs enjoy the spectacle from shoreline
in Southern California on any given day pathways. North and south, young and old,
and you’ll see surfers whipping around the Californians love their sports, and the state
waves, volleyball players diving in the sand, provides limitless opportunities to ply your
and bikers and skateboarders rolling along favorite or try a new one.

68 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SURFERS AT SANTA BARBARA beach,
right; river rafting in Trinity County, center;
mountain biker near San Francisco, bottom.

On Land
California has some of the world’s best golf,
including the legendary seaside Pebble
Beach Golf Links, home of Bill Murray’s
favorite annual event, the AT&T National
Pro-Am tournament. Or try any one of the
hundreds of public and private clubs scat-
tered across the state. If you aren’t into the
clubs, grab a frisbee and try some disc golf at
one of the more than 200 California courses.
Mountain and road biking are great
ways to get a workout while experiencing
the state’s landscape, whether it be from
tricky single-track downhill trails around
Lake Tahoe, flatter cross-country trips or
perhaps a rental in San Francisco’s new
Bike Share program. Skateboarding is prac-
tically the state sport, with skateparks seen
everywhere from the sport’s birthplace at
Venice Beach to the smallest inland town.
For a different sort of ride, make like
native son John Wayne and saddle up for
some horseback riding on trails near cities,
around dude ranches or on multi-day
wilderness journeys. If desert sands don’t
appeal to you, try those on the beaches of
Southern California that are lined with
volleyball nets for pickup games and pro-
fessional tournaments. California sunshine
is also good for year-round tennis, be it on
public courts or at a posh resort.

In Water
California has more than 840 miles of
coastline along the Pacific Ocean, a prime
launching spot for every manner of water
sport, including surfing, sailing, SCUBA
and sea kayaking. California has fully

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 69
SUMMER SPORTS

THE LINKS at Terranea Resort, above;


hiking at Castle Crags, Shasta County, right.

embraced stand-up paddle boarding, with Beach. Marinas dot the coast from north to paths of Muir Woods, easily accessible
many rental shops bordering lakes and the south, where experienced sailors can rent from nearby San Francisco.
ocean. Catalina Island and the kelp forests power yachts for deep-sea fishing or sail- A trip to the bubbling volcanic pools at
of Monterey Bay are popular diving spots, boats to ride the winds. Lassen Volcanic National Park or to the Dr.
but be sure to wear a wetsuit in the chilly Moving inland, gentle streams and scat- Seuss-like trees of Joshua Tree can make
Pacific waters. Surf breaks range from 50- tered lakes provide fertile sport-fishing visitors feel they’re on another planet,
foot monster waves in Half Moon Bay to grounds, while melting mountain snow while sunset in Yosemite Valley with views
more gentle rollers around Manhattan can create raging rapids for kayaking and of towering waterfalls can make it seem
rafting enthusiasts, but those looking for a like you’re in heaven.
gentle river float on an inner tube with a California’s many mountains mean
FIND
» YOUR FUN
beer cooler can still find their spots.
Boating is popular with waterskiers and
climbing is a popular activity, be it a hike
up 14,505-foot Mount Whitney (the highest
wakeboarders across the Sacramento Delta point in the continental U.S.) or technical
and at a huge number of marinas on lakes rock climbing routes from the easy to the
Biking and reservoirs throughout the state. extreme in legendary areas such as
bikecal.com
Yosemite, Joshua Tree and Pinnacles
labikepaths.com
sfbike.org The Great Outdoors national parks.

Boating
California boasts 32 national parks, California’s state flag features a bear,
dbw.ca.gov seashores and monuments, 279 state parks and you may see some among the wildlife
Climbing and a plethora of wilderness areas, nature during your outdoor journeys. Black bears,
mountainproject.com/v/ preserves and other outdoor playgrounds. mountain lions, rattlesnakes and coyotes
California/105708959
rockclimbing.org
With landscapes ranging from the sheer put the “wild” in California wildlife, but
cliffs of Yosemite to the searing deserts of careful visitors should have no problem
Golf
pga.com/golf-courses/details/CA Death Valley and the scenic shorelines of with them. Abundant migratory and native
TERRANEA RESORT; SHASTA COUNTY

the Channel Islands, California offers a birdlife makes California a prime birding
Disc Golf
pdga.com lifetime of outdoor opportunities for the destination, while at sea, whale watching
visitor. Exploration options range from is a perennial tourist favorite. Even
Horseback Riding
horseandtravel.com/states/california multi-day backpacking trips for the hardy without an organized tour, visitors can
in remote areas such as Lake Tahoe’s Des- walk to view sea lions on San Francisco
Surfing
surfingcalifornia.com olation Wilderness to relaxed, hour-long and Santa Cruz piers, and observe sea
walking tours through the gentle winding otters playing in the surf at Monterey.

70 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
WINTER SPORTS
BY BILL FINK
A Grand Season for Play
Bears may be hibernating in winter, but California’s many winter
activities provide lots of reasons to get outdoors

PETER MORNING/MAMMOTH MOUNTAIN SKI AREA. OPPOSITE: DELAWARE NORTH AT YOSEMITE; MONOCOUNTY.ORG
PLAYING IN SNOW
Snow play isn’t usually foremost
in people’s minds when they
think of California, but the state Southern California has long been pleasant vacationland of San Diego or Los
has some of the best skiing in the known as a warm-weather winter vacation Angeles. But for those seeking winter
West, with the area around Lake
area, with sports and outdoor activities sports, there may be no better place on
Tahoe offering more options than
centered in San Diego and Los Angeles earth than the mountains surrounding
anywhere in North America.
Young snowboarders are ready to and desert retreats like Palm Springs. But Lake Tahoe. The area hosted the 1960
attack the Mammoth Unbound the mountains of Lake Tahoe, Mammoth Winter Olympics at Squaw Valley and con-
terrain park at Mammoth Lakes and Yosemite beckon winter visitors tinues to be home base for many U.S.
Mountain Ski Area, above.
who want to embrace snow-based sports Winter Olympians who bang moguls, rip
and recreation. the half-pipes and race on downhill runs
at more than a dozen area ski resorts. For
Sports the non-extreme, plenty of beginner trails,
In winter, Southern California is still an group lessons and smaller hills offer a safe
oasis for outdoor sports and adventure, introduction to the sport.
from golf to tennis, hiking and horseback Tahoe resorts including Squaw Valley,
riding, whether in the still-baking desert Northstar and Heavenly feature ice skating
around Palm Springs or the perpetually rinks and innertube runs for those looking

72 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
for more mellow activities, best enjoyed by to as well. Avoiding the hot summer
a fire pit with toasted marshmallows for months means visitors can enjoy temperate
dessert. Cross-country skiing and snow- winter hiking and camping opportunities
shoeing courses dot the Tahoe area, in desert parks such as Death Valley, Joshua
offering a brisk aerobic workout amidst Tree and around Palm Springs (but be fore-
pine forests and sweeping mountain warned that the nights can still get frigid).
scenery. South of Tahoe, Mammoth Moun- Prior to snowfall, the Sierra Nevada moun-
tain boasts a world-class ski resort, while tain forests are ablaze with colorful fall
Big Bear offers skiing within a reasonable foliage, making a hike through the hills a
commute from Los Angeles, enabling the prime “shoulder season” activity.
highly motivated to surf and ski in a single Wintertime provides an escape from the
day. Outside of the ski resorts, snowmo- summer crowds often found in Yosemite
biling provides high-octane motor sport National Park. Visit the near-empty wilder-
fun, while dogsledding is a way to enjoy a ness to enjoy a quiet blanket of snow
different sort of ride with some furry covering towering cliffs, the sun glistening
friends. For the adventurous, remote back- off frozen waterfalls and the muffled
country skiing, the increasingly popular clomping sound of guided snowshoe
“sidecountry” Alpine Touring connected to tours—and then retire to one of their
the ski resorts, ice climbing and hut-to-hut lodges for special winter food and wine Winter also is the time when visitors
hiking in the Sierra Nevada mountains can events. Hot springs around Mammoth can spot many animals migrating south to
feed one’s hunger for adrenaline. Lakes provide toasty outdoor relaxation follow the sun. From massive gray whales
with a view of snowcapped mountains. Or, to miniature monarch butterflies, flocks of
The Great Outdoors perhaps bundle up and climb a mountain birds in the central wetlands and pods of
Step away from organized resort sports and for prime star-gazing opportunities in the seals come to mate on the shores of the
there’s still a wealth of winter outdoor crisp and clear mountain air, then add a Pacific, the world’s wildlife also seems to
activities in California. The bears may be few more layers and try some ice fishing on think that California’s outdoors is a great
hibernating but that doesn’t mean you have a high alpine lake. place to visit in winter.

» FIND
SPORT
YOUR

Skiing
skilaketahoe.com
mammothmountain.com
bearmountain.com
xcski.org

Hiking/Camping
yosemitepark.com
nps.gov/state/ca
parks.ca.gov

Wildlife
whalewatching.com/california
birding.com/wheretobird/california.asp
FAMILY ICE SKATING at Curry Village ice rink, Yosemite, dfg.ca.gov/wildlife
above; cross-country skiing in Mono County, top right.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 73
SHOPPING BY LENORE GREINER

Shopping Paradise
From outlet bargains to high fashion, California shopping
has everything you’d expect and many surprises

CALIFORNIA
SHOPPING
There are countless ways to enjoy
yourself on shopping sprees in The Golden State’s iconic malls, bargains behind the walls of a recreated
California, from one-of-a-kind bohemian shops and posh boutiques can Mesopotamian palace. And super shop-
hole-in-the-wall shops to the astound even the most jaded sophisticate. ping opportunities entice savvy shoppers

HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB. OPPOSITE: CARMEL PLAZA; PASADENA CVB


grandest department stores and An enticing range of California’s eclectic in millions of square feet of retail space.
shopping districts. All of the top
creativity awaits visitors throughout the
brands are here, from Neiman
Marcus to Nordstrom to state, from theme park collectibles to SoCal Glamour
Bloomingdale’s, and famous homegrown surfing gear to fine wine. Malls sprawl throughout Los Angeles,
districts from Orange County Foodies can sample fresh-made cheeses in crowned by Rodeo Drive’s stratospheric
malls to LA’s Rodeo Drive to San artisanal food shops. Fashionistas will love price tags. But you’ll find significant bar-
Francisco’s Union Square will give
San Francisco’s luxurious haute couture gains in rings, necklaces and other pieces in
you plenty to explore. You can
always try on a new look, like haunts. And art lovers can bring home an the historic Jewelry District at prices up to
these shoppers in Huntington original California landscape from a red- 70 percent less than those in Beverly Hills.
Beach, above. wood-scented artists’ enclave. More than 3,000 jewelry showrooms stand
California shopping safaris may entail on 6th and 8th streets between Olive Street
sighting a celebrity in a Los Angeles bou- and Broadway Avenue. Behind a facade of
tique, arriving at a mall by boat or hunting bas-reliefs of Babylonian princes and

74 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
CARMEL PLAZA in
Carmel-by-the-Sea, left;
shopping in Pasadena, below.

heraldic griffins, the Citadel Outlets holds Spectrum Center holds 130 stores, restau-
700,000 square feet of retail bargains inside rants and a 21-screen cinema, anchored by
a one-time 1929 tire plant modeled on an Nordstrom and Macy’s.
ancient Assyrian palace. And between the Fashion Island, with its casual resort
Farmer’s Market and The Grove shopping setting featuring splashing fountains and
center, the Grove Trolley provides shoppers a koi pond, overlooks the Pacific. Leading
free rides along First Street. with Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, this
The West Hollywood Design District fea- coastal center has more than 100 shops
tures high-end fashion, interior design, and 36 restaurants.
furniture, decorative arts and luxury brand Beyond the malls, Laguna Beach’s
stores on Melrose Avenue and Robertson stylish art galleries line streets sloping to a
and Beverly boulevards. Sunset Boulevard’s pretty beach. And, if heading to Palm Northern California Elegance
world famous Amoeba Music is the Springs, stop at the 180-store Desert Hills San Francisco’s massive malls and quirky
nation’s largest music emporium, stocking Premium Outlets in Cabazon for luxury boutiques showcase the city’s European
an overwhelming selection of vinyl, CDs, designer brands. style. Join the Prada-clad parade circling
tapes, posters and collectibles—at rock- Southward in San Diego, begin your downtown Union Square to max out your
bottom prices. shopping trip with a delightful morning at platinum card in the upscale department
In Santa Monica’s breezy, outdoor Third waterside Seaport Village. Then, hop on the stores. Stroll down nearby Maiden Lane,
Street Promenade, find the usual mall sus- Coronado Island ferry and cruise to the once lined with Barbary Coast brothels, for
pects, Anthropologie and Gap, as well as Coronado Ferry Landing Shops for more more luxury.
celebrity-soaked Fred Segal and Zara, a sunny shopping. Nearby, the Westfield San Francisco
trendy European chain. San Diego’s own Rodeo Drive—Prospect Centre is an architectural gem with 200
Artsy shoppers should head to nearby Street in La Jolla—has art galleries, bou- stores, restaurants and two food empo-
Venice Beach’s hip art galleries, bookstores tiques and sweeping Pacific views. In the riums under a stunning 1908 dome.
and vintage shops. For bargains, drive city center, the 16½-block Gaslamp Quarter Don’t miss San Francisco’s great shop-
north to Camarillo’s giant 160-store Camar- features mall chains as well as hip shops ping neighborhoods. On Chinatown’s
illo Premium Outlets. and art galleries occupying restored Victo- Stockton Street you can pick up Asian
In Orange County, quintessential SoCal rian buildings. antiques, silk clothing bargains or rare tea.
shopping experiences await in huge open- In coastal Carlsbad, north of San Diego, Herbal pharmacies proffer Chinese medic-
air malls, complete with valet parking. you’ll find an elegant outlet mall, the inal remedies, ginseng, deer antlers or
Inspired by Spain’s Alhambra, the Irvine Carlsbad Premium Outlets. herbs costing $100 per pound.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 75
SHOPPING
WILSHIRE BOULEVARD
and Rodeo Drive are two of
» FIND YOUR
FASHION
LA’s most celebrated shopping
areas, right and below.
West Hollywood Design District
westhollywooddesigndistrict.com

Citadel Outlets
citadeloutlets.com

The Grove
thegrovela.com

Santa Monica Third Street Promenade


3rdstreetpromenade.com
Farm and in local farmers markets. Or
Amoeba Music
explore Saint Helena’s historic main street amoeba.com
for culinary tools and vintage luxuries.
Fred Segal
Three outlet malls—in Petaluma, Napa fredsegal.com
and Vacaville—offer brand names and
Venice Beach
Near Pacific Heights, Sacramento Street mall time. venicebeach.com/shopping
houses fancy consignment shops, luxury San Diego Gaslamp Quarter
goods retailers and haute couture children’s Farther Afield: North Coast, gaslamp.org

boutiques. Hippie culture thrives in Haight Yosemite & Theme Parks Coronado Ferry Landing Shops
coronadoferrylandingshops.com
Street shops selling incense, used records California’s wild North Coast inspires the
and vintage San Francisco postcards, handcrafted furniture and handicrafts, Seaport Village
seaportvillage.com
which make great gifts. pottery or jewelry found in artsy Mendo-
Irvine Spectrum Center
North Beach and Jackson Square are cino’s ocean view lanes. shopirvinespectrumcenter.com
famous for the legendary City Lights book- Yosemite Valley’s majesty and history
Fashion Island
store, Italian cafés and antique stores. inspire the gifts and mementos found in shopfashionisland.com
Japantown offers authentic Japanese Yosemite Museum’s Gift Shop, including Carlsbad Premium Outlets
goods, tansu chests, bonsai and antique authentic Native American-woven basketry. premiumoutlets.com/carlsbad

kimonos. Finally, Hayes Valley, a hipster The Ansel Adams Gallery sells photographic Westfield San Francisco Centre
westfield.com/sanfrancisco
haven, has trendy stores and nary a chain reproductions and collectible prints.
store in sight. Shopping in theme parks goes beyond Carmel-by-the-Sea
carmelcalifornia.com
Two hours south, in Carmel-by-the- sunscreen or souvenirs. In San Diego Zoo
Carmel Plaza
Sea’s storybook village, shops display fine Safari Park, The Bazaar stocks authentic carmelplaza.com
French linen and European antiques. Big African artifacts and unusual jewelry. In
Sonoma’s Main Plaza
Sur’s rugged coast inspires the art found in Disneyland’s Downtown Disney District, sonomavalley.com/sonoma.html
small art galleries. On Ocean Avenue, you’ll find surf gear and Disney col- FRAZAO PRODUCTION/SHUTTERSTOCK; VIEW APART/SHUTTERSTOCK
Mendocino Shopping
explore  designer shops  such as lectibles. Finally, the world’s largest mendocino.com

Bottega Veneta or Kate Spade in the Carmel selection of LEGOs awaits in Carlsbad’s Napa Premium Outlets
premiumoutlets.com/Napa
Plaza shopping center  amid cafés,  artful LEGOLAND California Resort.
bronze sculptures and  abundant plants From sun-splashed malls to sophisticated Green String Farm
greenstringfarm.com
and flowers. art galleries, even the most experienced
Saint Helena’s Main Street
North, in the wine country, discover arti- shopaholic can score the perfect gift or sthelena.com
sanal food shops, olive oil producers and memento during a delirious California
Downtown Disney District
cheese makers on Sonoma’s main plaza. shopping experience. And it’s all located disneyland.disney.go.com/
destinations/downtown-disney-district
Napa Valley wineries offer fine vintages, on stage sets of ocean views, mountain
and foodies will love the seasonal abun- majesty, innovative architecture and quiet Yosemite National Park
nps.gov/yose
dance at Petaluma’s organic Green String redwood groves.

76 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SPAS & WELLNESS BY LAVINIA SPALDING

Treat Yourself to the Ultimate Escape


California’s world-famous spas invite you to unplug and unwind

NAPA VALLEY
This celebrated region and
neighboring Sonoma Valley are In San Francisco’s vibrant Japantown dis- For people around the world, the name
known primarily for their wine,
trict, buses and bikes whiz by, teens “California” means escape and conjures
but their appeal runs deeper than
that. You can pamper yourself at congregate and people text as fast as they images of sunny beaches. But in today’s
luxury spas—such as Meadowood walk. But inside the Kabuki Hot Springs, demanding, perpetually wired world, a
in Saint Helena or the Sonoma the city vanishes. The only sounds in the true vacation requires more than just a
Mission Inn & Spa—dine at some dimly lit, Japanese-style communal baths break from the office; it takes unplugging,
of California’s (and the USA’s) best
are the gentle splashing of water and occa- purifying and restoring. Luckily, this is
restaurants, shop at trendy
boutiques or live a little rougher sional strains of soothing music. In the practically the state motto.
and explore wild state parks. sauna, you can lie back and detoxify as you California has been a resort destination
treat your eyes to chilled cucumber slices. since the early 20th century, beckoning trav-
Then hit the steam room and exfoliate elers with its year-round warm weather,
with lemon and sea salt. Follow with a spectacular geography and mineral springs.
long, lazy soak in the hot tub, and if you’re The 1950s brought yoga to the state, and the
brave, a cold plunge. When you’re finished, 1960s ushered in a wave of young hippies
start all over again. In fact, linger all day: it passionate about all-natural food and
only costs $25. intentional living. Today, California is the

78 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
nation’s vortex of personal health and self- Wine Country Wellness
improvement, with spas and wellness Californians are known to soak up a lot
centers almost as ubiquitous as scenic more than wine in Napa Valley and
views. From five-star luxury resorts and Sonoma. Residents have long enjoyed the
posh day spas to holistic healing programs area’s natural mineral waters, and today’s
and “hippie hot springs,” the array of spa menus overflow with treatments using
retreats will dazzle even the most experi- grape seeds and skins, rich in antioxidants
enced serenity seeker. Here are some of our and polyphenols. At the Kenwood Inn and
favorite spots for the ultimate escape. Spa, order up a vinotherapy bath and you’ll
soak in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or
Taking the Waters sparkling wine elixirs, salts and oils. Or
Home to numerous large geothermal refresh with a Vinosource Hydrating
areas, California has for centuries been a Facial, a moisturizing treatment with
celebrated mineral springs destination, gentle exfoliation and fresh grape extracts.
with myriad spas statewide. Two hours But it’s not all about grapes in wine
inland from Los Angeles, Desert Hot country. At Sonoma’s Osmosis Day Spa
JENNA ROSE ROBBINS/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; SKENT KANOUSE/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; SONOMA MISSION INN SPA. OPPOSITE: MEADOWOOD SPA

Springs offers dozens of options, from the


glamorous, sprawling Two Bunch Palms
(featured in the movie The Player) to cozy
boutique inns like Hacienda Hot Springs.
The Central Coast also boasts famous
baths, such as Esalen (equally known for
its extensive list of alternative-education
workshops) and Tassajara, the first Zen
monastery built outside of Asia. But small,
funky Calistoga in the north is the state’s
oldest spa town, renowned not only for hot
springs but also abundant volcanic ash
used for therapeutic mud treatments.
Eight thousand years ago, the Wappo
Indians named the area “Ta La Ha Lu Si,”
meaning “Beautiful Land” or “Oven Place,”
and today spa facilities run the gamut
from luxurious to laid-back. The oldest in
Calistoga—and likely California—is Indian
Springs, opened in 1862 by Sam Brannan, the
first Gold Rush millionaire. The property fea- A SHRINE WELCOMES
tures an Olympic-size heated mineral pool visitors to the bathhouse at
Tassajara Zen Mountain
(complimentary with spa treatment on week-
Center, top; Indian Springs
days; $30 extra on weekends), an adults-only Resort & Spa, Calistoga,
saltwater pool, mud baths, steam rooms above; facial in Sonoma
steeped with eucalyptus, and a meditation Mission Inn & Spa, left.
pond. Tip: book a hotel stay between
November and March (excluding certain hol-
idays) and get one free mud bath per room
and 10 percent off dinner at Sam’s Social Club.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 79
SPAS & WELLNESS

PRACTICING YOGA in Long Beach, right.

Sanctuary, an innovative, eco-conscious


day spa, the specialty is a cedar enzyme
“bath.” Guests immerse themselves to the
chin in warm, finely ground cedar, rice
bran and plant enzymes. Heated by natural
fermentation, the treatment is said to aid
digestion, improve circulation and relieve
muscle tension.
Or for first-class pampering, lavish
accommodations and a three-star
Michelin dinner, visit the brand-new
14,000-square-foot all-suite Meadowood

» FIND
Spa, and choose a curated treatment Health First
package such as “From the Earth,” which When the sublime Golden Door opened in
includes a black walnut scrub enhanced Escondido in 1958, it was a pioneer among
YOUR SPA
with custom-blended aromatherapy oils. American spas. It’s since become one of
Located on a private, two-hundred-fifty- the world’s finest health resorts, regularly Kabuki Hot Springs
acre estate, Meadowood also offers golf, hosting Hollywood’s biggest stars. Golden kabukisprings.com
tennis, croquet, hiking and swimming. Door specializes in fitness, Eastern philos- Two Bunch Palms Resort & Spa
ophy, relaxation and opulence. Guests twobunchpalms.com
Om Sweet Om pre-arrange completely customized four- Hacienda Hot Springs
When yoga came to America, some of the to seven-day packages with fitness options haciendahotsprings.com
first studios appeared in Hollywood and as diverse as Pilates, fencing, tennis, dance Esalen
San Francisco. The practice has since and archery. Best of all, each stay includes esalen.org
become a way of life for countless Califor- facial treatments, herbal wraps, mani- Tassajara Hot Springs
nians, and hundreds of top-notch centers, pedis, and daily in-room massages. sfzc.org/tassajara
from ritzy to rustic, cater to beginners and Another excellent (and more affordable) Indian Springs
gurus alike. option is The Oaks at Ojai, where healthy indianspringscalistoga.com
One of the world’s most renowned yoga weight loss and conscious eating are Meadowood
retreats is tucked into the Santa Ynez emphasized, and activities include belly meadowood.com/spa
Mountains above Santa Barbara. At the dancing, hula hooping, Qigong, hiking and Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary
White Lotus Foundation Center, guests aqua Zumba. Indulge in a seasonal sugar osmosis.com
spend their days doing sun salutations in rub (think Pixie tangerine, lavender or fig), Kenwood Inn and Spa
a canyon with ocean views, hiking through lemongrass lavender pedicure or hot kenwoodinn.com
RAY SMITH/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICR

old-growth oaks, meditating in an under- Himalayan salt stone massage. White Lotus
ground Hopi-style kiva and swimming in Ultimately, California’s spa culture prom- whitelotus.org
natural stone pools. Massages are avail- ises visitors far more than relaxation; it Golden Door
able, gourmet vegetarian fare is served, ensures that this time you won’t need a goldendoor.com
and sleeping quarters are private accom- vacation from your vacation. You’ll return The Oaks at Ojai
modations, heated yurts or creekside home relaxed and recharged—that is, if you oaksspa.com
camping under the stars. can bring yourself to return home at all.

80 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
CASINOS BY MATT VILLANO

High Rolling
Las Vegas isn’t the only show out West, California is a gambling destination, too

now offer gambling, the best (and most


plentiful) options are in California.
The Golden State has two choices for
people looking to place bets: Native Amer-
ican casinos, and card rooms (which are
glorified bars where gambling is legal, so
long as the house doesn’t win).
The Native American outposts tend to
be farther from major cities but offer nicer
digs. They have slots. They have table
games. They even have bingo. Many of
these wagering wonderlands are “Vegas-
style” resorts, complete with luxury hotels,
top-notch restaurants and indulgent spas.
A few of the properties even have their own
golf courses.
Card rooms are smaller, quieter and, in
many cases, more geared toward locals.

RAY SMITH/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR. OPPOSITE: PECHANGA CASINO; PECHANGA CASINO; SOUTH LAKE TAHOE CVB
Games here are far less varied—in most
cases, as the name suggests, only card games
are available. The upside? Gambling action
is usually loose (and that’s a good thing).
We’ve divided California’s gambling
scene into four distinct geographical
regions. Wherever you go, bet wisely, and
remember to stay within your means.

San Francisco Bay Area & Beyond


Without question, the Bay Area is the most
exciting region of California for gambling,
with more options than any other part of
PECHANGA CASINO the state. It also is home to the newest major
The Pechanga Resort & Casino in
Temecula opened in 2002, and is still spot to let chips fly: Graton Resort & Casino.
the largest casino in California. The In the olden days—the days of Frank This attraction, located in Rohnert Park,
resort is the biggest employer in the Sinatra and Bugsy Siegel—U.S. gamblers is a hulking casino built and operated by
Temecula Valley, a place the
looking for a date with Lady Luck had one Station Casinos, one of the largest casino
Pechanga people have called home
option: Las Vegas. Nowadays, with changes companies in Las Vegas. Bettors cheer the
for more than 10,000 years.
to gambling laws in many states, it’s a safe swanky gambling floor, which boasts a 20-
bet that bettors can throw down their cash table poker room, more than 130 table
just about anywhere. Of all the states that games, and thousands of slots. Foodies

82 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
EXCITING SLOT ACTION in Pechanga
Casino, right; Hard Rock Hotel & Casino,
Lake Tahoe, bottom left; tuna sushi in
Pechanga, bottom right; Thunder Valley
Casino Resort, Lincoln, next page.

flock to the place, too—the restaurant


lineup includes a Chinese bistro from Chef
Martin Yan, and a food-court outpost of
Tony’s Neapolitan-style pizzeria.
Other Native American casinos in this
region are small but superlative in other
ways. Many, including Cache Creek
(Brooks) and Thunder Valley (Lincoln),
have full-service hotels. Red Hawk, in Plac-
erville, offers child-care services for tykes in cash prizes (not to mention lots of seats home to some of the biggest Native Amer-
while mom and dad play. to the annual World Series of Poker) over ican casinos in the state, including Harrah’s
Most of the other gambling options in the course of every year. Casino M8trix, in Resort Southern California in Valley Center;
Northern California are card rooms, and San Jose, distinguishes itself with a Pala Casino Spa Resort in Pala; Barona
many are located in the suburbs of San thumping nightclub. Resort & Casino in Lakeside; and Pechanga
Francisco and Sacramento. The two most Resort & Casino in Temecula. All of these
popular: San Jose’s Bay 101, which hosts a SoCal and LA properties boast Vegas-style hotels with
number of World Poker Tour events Southern California—from the northern eateries, shopping and spas. In 2014, after a
throughout the year, and Colma’s Lucky edge of the San Fernando Valley to the $160-million renovation, Harrah’s opened a
Chances, which doles out nearly $1 million Mexico border, the Pacific Ocean to I-15—is new 403-room hotel tower and a pool deck
that features a lazy river and weekend par-
ties with live deejays.
Closer to Los Angeles, the name of the
game is card rooms. Two facilities are
worth visiting for their grandeur alone:
the Commerce Casino (Commerce) and the
Bicycle Club (Bell Gardens). Both venues
have expansive poker rooms and host
some of the most popular tournaments in
the area.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 83
CASINOS

» KNOW
THE RULES

Just because California has casinos The Desert Excluding those in Reno, the most
doesn’t mean games there play the Package deals abound for stay-and-play accessible venues are located in South
same way they’d play in Las Vegas or vacations at casino resorts in and around Lake Tahoe. Here, the Montbleu Resort,
Atlantic City. Perhaps the biggest dif-
the Coachella Valley and Palm Springs. At Casino & Spa (formerly a Caesars prop-
ferences: craps and roulette. State
Morongo Casino Resort & Spa in Cabazon, erty) is by far the swankiest, with
gaming laws expressly prohibit the
for instance, $229 per night gets guests a ultra-modern lounges and a steakhouse
outcome of a game to be determined
room plus a $30 casino credit and a 50- that makes Ruth’s Chris seem like
by dice or a ball. While the games
minute massage. Similar deals are available McDonald’s. The new Hard Rock Hotel &
incorporate traditional elements
of dice and a ball, the games at the Agua Caliente Casino Resort Spa Casino Lake Tahoe, with 500 hotel rooms
themselves hinge on overturning (Rancho Mirage). Most area casinos have and a 25,000-square-foot casino, opened
different types of cards. their own golf courses, but locals rave about in 2015 in the old Horizon Casino Resort
For novices (or those just looking Eagle Falls, the course at Fantasy Springs space located down the street.
WORLD POKER TOUR/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICR

for a good time), these differences Resort Casino in Indio. The 18-hole course Of course the best thing about casinos
are minimal. For hard-core craps and was designed by architect Clive Clark. at Lake Tahoe is that because they’re in
roulette players, however, they make Nevada, they play by Nevada rules (see
the games so foreign that adjusting Lake Tahoe sidebar). Since sports books and dice
becomes tough. Ask the croupier to
Okay, okay, so the casinos that sidle up to games are illegal in the state of California,
review the rules before buying-in.
Lake Tahoe are on the Nevada side of the this means Tahoe is the spot to place
If a game seems confusing, don’t
state line. Still, they’re close enough to those kinds of bets.
bother; there are dozens of other
most other destinations in California that Big spenders, consider yourselves
options throughout the casino.
they deserve a mention here. warned. And good luck.

84 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
LOS ANGELES COUNTY
A place for dreams and reinvention

BY JACQUELINE YAU
TOP CITIES
Los Angeles, West Hollywood, Burbank, Santa
Monica, Malibu, Beverly Hills, Pasadena, Venice,
Redondo Beach

T
hanks to the Beach Boys harmonizing about California girls,
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY beach party movies of the ’60s and TV shows like Baywatch, many
Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), people think of Los Angeles as palm trees, endless beaches and
19 miles (31 km) from downtown LA
bikini-clad women. But LA is far more complex. It’s a mix of the old and
DOMESTIC GATEWAYS new, from cuisines to culture to ideas. The creativity and diversity of the
Long Beach Airport (LGB), 24 miles (38 km) region are reflected in the over 100 museums focused on the odd to the
from downtown LA; Burbank’s Bob Hope Airport
divine, vibrant global street art community and constant evolution of the
(BUR), 16 miles (26 km) from downtown LA
food scene.
TOURISM WEBSITES The City of Angels is also the land of reinvention. Henry Rollins—jour-
experiencela.com
nalist, punk legend, radio host, spoken word artist and actor—once
discoverlosangeles.com
lamag.com remarked, “For me, returning to Los Angeles annihilates the memories of
visitwesthollywood.com where I have just been with an astonishing speed.” Los Angeles County
LOS ANGELES CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

lovebeverlyhills.com
attracts seekers, dreamers, hustlers and wannabe actors/screenwriters/direc-
downtownla.com
visitpasadena.com tors. Most come from somewhere else and are looking for something better.
visitredondo.com A persistent optimism and self-expressiveness permeate the air.

POPULATION
10.1 million The Nation’s Largest County
As the most populous county in the nation, with over 10 million resi-
LOS dents, Los Angeles County comprises 88 cities with more than 100
ANGELES
COUNTY languages spoken within its 4,084 square miles. The county is larger than
the states of Rhode Island and Delaware.

86 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SPECIAL
» EVENTS 2016 MUST
» SEE,
THE HOLLYWOOD REEL INDEPENDENT FILM FESTIVAL Screens new feature films, DO
documentaries, shorts and videos by emerging filmmakers who possess an independent
spirit and create innovative work outside the studio system. Feb. 3-21 at multiple venues
and locations in Los Angeles. hollywoodreelindependentfilmfestival.com
FESTIVAL OF BOOKS Meet hundreds of literary lights and browse the booths at one of
the largest book festivals in the country. The Los Angeles Times Festival of Books celebrates
» Street Food Cinema Pack a blanket, beach
chair and pillows and join other Angelenos for this
its 20th year. April 9-10 at USC. events.latimes.com/festivalofbooks
curated outdoor movie series at one of the 11 loca-
SCI-FEST LA The third annual Los Angeles Science Fiction One-Act Play Festival returns, tions from Pasadena to the Pacific Palisades. Choose
creating and showcasing new science fiction content on the live stage featuring many actors from over 50 events. Enjoy the confluence of pop
from well-known sci-fi TV and movie franchises. May 5-29 at The Acme Theater in Hollywood.
culture films, celebrity guests, gourmet food trucks
sci-fest.com
and live music under the sun and stars.
LA STREET FOOD FESTIVAL Follow your nose to the seventh annual fest celebrating › streetfoodcinema.com
over 100 of L.A.’s food vendors, from top chefs and renowned restaurants to gourmet food
trucks and street food stalls. Sample a variety of libations too including craft cocktails and
tequila. Whether you’re looking for a gourmet treat or a simple repast, you’ll find something
» Venice Boardwalk Hang out with surfers,
that satisfies. In May at the Rose Bowl in Pasadena. lastreetfoodfest.com skateboarders, body builders, street basketball
players, buskers, fortune-tellers and artists at the
HERO COMPLEX FILM FESTIVAL The Hero Complex Film Festival brings together sci- Venice boardwalk on Ocean Front Walk, a 1.5-mile
fi, comic book and fantasy film fans to watch their favorites on the silver screen and hear pedestrian-only promenade. Don’t miss the Venice
from those behind some of the biggest hits. In May at TCL Chinese Theatres in Hollywood.
events.latimes.com/herocomplex/film-festival Public Art Walls featuring graffiti art on the sand,
west of the bike path between Windward Street
JULY 4TH FIREWORKS SPECTACULAR—HOLLYWOOD BOWL Set against the Hollywood and Market Street.
Hills, this mecca for music is a 1920s-era amphitheater. The annual July 4th fireworks program › venicebeach.com
at the Hollywood Bowl features renowned musicians and fantastic fireworks displays.
hollywoodbowl.com › veniceartwalls.com

626 NIGHT MARKET Inspired by the bustling Asian night markets, this evening bazaar will
spice up your senses with more than 200 food vendors (tempting your taste buds with
» Olvera Street Browse lucha libre (Mexican
wrestling) masks, Day of the Dead figurines, piñatas
skewers of beef, spiraled fried potatoes, stinky tofu and mango shave ice), performers and
retail booths. Entering its fifth year, this Asian-food-themed festival is held in the summer at and other souvenirs in this block-long Mexican
Santa Anita Park in Arcadia. July-September. Check website for details. New this year: Taste marketplace located in Los Angeles Plaza Historic
of Night Market in Santa Monica, Feb. 5-6. 626nightmarket.com District. This section of LA was the town center
during the colonial era under Spanish and Mexican
THE ABBOT KINNEY FESTIVAL Founded in 1984, this eco-conscious artisan and food fes-
tival attracts many to this bohemian-chic area in Venice. Located on a one-mile stretch on rule through most of the 19th century. Many vendors
Abbot Kinney Blvd., from Venice Blvd. to Main Street. Sept. 25 in Venice. abbotkinney.org are the descendants of the original merchants in
this marketplace that was established in 1930 to
WEST HOLLYWOOD CARNAVAL Every Oct. 31, more than 500,000 people attend the world’s preserve and bring back “old Los Angeles” and its
largest Halloween street party along Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood. Dress up in your
customs. Try a churro from Mr. Churro’s or a taco
favorite costume and prepare to dance the night away. visitwesthollywood.com/halloween-carnaval
amidst the street stalls and old structures.
› olvera-street.com

» See Improv, Sketch or Stand-up


Comedy Plan to laugh a lot when you visit one of
the many comedy clubs in Los Angeles. You may see
up-and-coming comedic geniuses honing their craft
or a legendary veteran headlining or dropping by.
Notable clubs include The Groundlings, Hollywood
Improv Comedy Club, Laugh Factory, Upright Citizens
Brigade and Comedy Store.
› discoverlosangeles.com/blog/comedy-clubs-los-angeles

» Kayak the Los Angeles River Paddle with


the LA Conservation Corps and its partners down a
1.5-mile stretch of the Los Angeles River in the San
Fernando Valley within the Sepulveda Basin. This
waterway has been open to the public through
supervised kayak trips since the summer of 2011. The
season runs from June through the end of Sep-
tember. Tickets sell out quickly, so don’t hesitate,
book now and paddle!
SANTA MONICA, above; Griffith Observatory, Los Angeles, opposite. › paddlethelariver.org

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 87
LIVE MUSIC at Perch, a rooftop lounge, left;
LA art district, below.

downtown LA’s Chinatown, Little Tokyo,


the Art and Fashion Districts, the Latino
enclaves around Echo Park, Hollywood’s
Laurel Canyon, Little Armenia, Thai Town
or Melrose District where hipsters shop.
When in LA, do as the celebs do and
start the day in downward dog at Bryan
Kest’s Power Yoga studio in Santa Monica.
Go shopping at Fred Segal, an LA institu-
tion known for cult beauty and makeup
The entertainment industry is an inte- brands. Need an outfit for an awards
gral part of the local economy, annually show? Head over to Decades on Melrose
contributing $47 billion to the region. For Avenue, a couture vintage store where
decades, the name Hollywood has been many stylists choose red-carpet gowns
synonymous with the movie business, for their star clients.
but today, most studios have moved into Hungry? Eat at The Ivy, a Beverly Hills
neighboring suburbs such as Burbank institution known for its casual chic
and Culver City. atmosphere and the steady flow of
Some of the better-known areas in LA celebrities lunching there. Or chow down
County aren’t even cities but rather dis- on a Chili dog at Pink’s in Hollywood.
tricts or neighborhoods within Los Watch an LA Lakers basketball game at
Angeles, such as Hollywood, Silver Lake the Staples Center and see stars on the
INSIDER’S and Venice. In contrast, Beverly Hills, court and in the stands. End the day sip-
» TIP home to the most expensive residences ping a cocktail at Chateau Marmont on
in the world, and West Hollywood, a Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood,
Near the GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY diverse mélange of gays, Russians and where celebrities meet their agents and
is a local favorite. Mingle with musicians, are cities but completely sur- studio execs.
celebrities, moms, seniors, dog rounded by the city of Los Angeles.
walkers and more as you hike up Seventy miles of beaches run along LA Hollywood
Mt. Hollywood to take in the County’s southwest border. Malibu, an Conceived originally as an outdoor bill-
gorgeous 360-degree views of the exclusive seaside community, has some board promoting a housing development
entire LA Basin, from the Pacific to of the most beautiful beaches in the area. called “Hollywoodland” in 1923, the Hol-
the SAN GABRIEL MOUNTAINS, To the north of the city of LA, hikers and lywood sign sits on the south side of
including the Hollywood sign on mountain climbers can explore trails in Mount Lee and Griffith Park—long a
MOUNT LEE. START on FERN DELL the Santa Monica Mountains. To the east, symbol that this is a place where dreams
DRIVE off LOS FELIZ in GRIFFITH the San Gabriel Mountains rise up to can come true.
LOS ANGELES CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

PARK and walk away from Los Feliz more than 10,000 feet above sea level. The first movie studio, the Nestor
up the hill to the Observatory and
Motion Picture Company, opened in the
continue up the path, or for a
City & Town fall of 1911 in Hollywood on the north-
shorter walk, park at the
Los Angeles, the second largest city in the west corner of Sunset Boulevard and
Observatory and start there on the
nation, dominates the county. Writer Gower Street. It was absorbed by the Uni-
CHARLIE TURNER TRAIL.
Dorothy Parker once quipped, “Los versal Film Manufacturing Company,
yelp.com/biz/ griffith-observatory-
Angeles is 72 suburbs in search of a city.” which later became Universal Studios. By
hike-los-angeles
yelp.com/biz/charlie-turners-trail-los-angeles Now, well over 100 neighborhoods in LA the 1920s, 80 percent of the world’s films
form a rich cultural stew. Meander around were shot in California.

88 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
LOS ANGELES THAI TOWN, below.
DRIVE
» TOUR
MULHOLLAND DRIVE
offers spectacular views of
the HOLLYWOOD BOWL,
the LA BASIN and
SAN FERNANDO VALLEY.
It’s about 24 miles from the
405 freeway to Highway 101 with overlooks all along the way. Or, drive
in a loop from HOLLYWOOD. Starting at the DOLBY THEATRE, home of
the Academy Awards, go west on HOLLYWOOD BLVD. in Los Angeles
till it ends. Turn right on LAUREL CANYON BLVD. and at the top, turn
left on Mulholland Drive. Stop at the NANCY HOOVER POHL
OVERLOOK and enjoy a great view of the “Valley.” Return to
Mulholland Drive, going eastbound, past Laurel Canyon Road until
you see the HOLLYWOOD BOWL OVERLOOK on your right. Park and
walk up to see the panoramic views of downtown LA, the Hollywood
sign, Griffith Observatory and the Hollywood Bowl Amphitheater.
Continue east until you reach the bottom of Mulholland Drive. Turn
right on Woodrow Wilson and make an immediate right onto
CAHUENGA BLVD., heading south back to Hollywood.

Learn more about Tinsel Town’s history, summer, moist marine air is pulled inland the Rancho La Brea Tar Pits. Or if the kids
and experience its memorabilia at The Hol- and forms a misty cover till it burns off by are tired of trying to spot stars on the
lywood Museum. Or participate in the the afternoon. Start in Malibu and show ground, take them to the Griffith Observa-
Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sci- your stuff at the iconic “Surfrider Beach” at tory. Featured in many movies including
ences events and get swept up in the Malibu Lagoon State Beach and explore Rebel Without a Cause (1955), the observa-
pre-Oscar buzz. tide pools and caves at Leo Carrillo State tory is set on the southern slope of Mount
Park. Perhaps watch filming in progress at Hollywood in Griffith Park, with a view of
The Great Outdoors Malibu’s Point Dume State Beach, often the Hollywood sign and greater LA below.
Despite its car culture rap, LA County featured in movies such as the Iron Man In addition to visiting the exhibits and
offers lots of outdoor activities. Rent a series (2008-2013), and it appeared in the events held Tuesday through Sunday at the
bike along the Santa Monica Pier and last scene of Planet of the Apes (1968). Or Samuel Oschin Planetarium and Leonard
ride down the path that parallels the look out for California gray whales during Nimoy Event Horizon Theater, go enjoy the
ocean, through Venice and on to Marina their migration from December to mid monthly, free public star parties held at the
del Rey before doubling back. Pack a April. Next, wind your way down through Observatory from 2:00 p.m. to 9:45 p.m.
picnic lunch and hike Echo Mountain in Topanga Beach and stop over for a volley- Budding astronomers and their families
LOS ANGELES CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

Altadena or the Arroyo Seco trail system ball game at Will Rogers State Beach in are encouraged to try out different tele-
in the San Gabriel Mountains. Sign up Pacific Palisades. Then hop over to Venice scopes and talk to amateur astronomers
for rock-climbing instruction, take a and the Strand on Manhattan Beach to about the sun, moon and planets.
surfing or stand-up paddle boarding people-watch. Or for something different, head to Long
lesson from one of the many surfing Beach and tour the Queen Mary, a retired
centers in Santa Monica. Family Fun ocean liner that sailed on the North
Explore the county’s many and varied Check out fossils of saber-toothed cats and Atlantic from 1936 to 1967 and is now a
beaches, from the iconic to the little mammoths that roamed the LA Basin hotel, historical landmark and entertain-
known, but bring a sweater. In the during the Ice Age at the Page Museum at ment venue.

90 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
WEST HOLLYWOOD
“The Creative City” is a place to indulge your senses and let loose

BY JACQUELINE YAU

SUNSET BOULEVARD at night, above; KNOWN FOR ITS live-and-let-live atti- Neil Diamond and Elton John, who per-
rainbow crosswalk, below; boys’ night tude since the late 19 th
century, West formed his first U.S. show there in 1970.
out, opposite bottom.
Hollywood (WeHo to the locals) has always And Whisky a Go Go served as a rock incu-
been a little looser than its neighbors. This bator, hosting early performances by The
central Los Angeles area, formerly an unin- Byrds, Buffalo Springfield, Blondie, Guns
corporated stretch known as “Sherman” N’ Roses and Red Hot Chili Peppers. The
during Prohibition, was loosely regulated club also gave The Doors their start as the
and out of reach of the Los Angeles Police house band.
Department—an ideal place for oppor-
tunists, developers, mafia money and Creative City
celebrities. Speakeasies, nightclubs and West Hollywood is a densely packed 1.9
casinos proliferated along the Sunset Strip square miles, a key-shaped city within a
where glam, glitz and grit rubbed shoulders. city, straddling the iconic Sunset Boulevard
Marilyn Monroe had her first date with and Santa Monica Boulevard, part of the
baseball Hall of Famer Joe DiMaggio at the historic Route 66. Today, this cosmopolitan
Rainbow Bar & Grill, right across the street and self-styled “creative city” is where
from the iconic music venue, The Roxy The- music, art, fashion and design intersect. A
atre—the birthplace of many rock legends. mix of Spanish Colonial Revival and Art
The decadent era of the 1920s and ’30s Deco buildings, designer flagship stores,
gave way to the counterculture movement furniture showrooms, art galleries, restau-
in the ’60s—bringing to the area musi- rants and clubs vie for attention. Music
cians, seekers, publishers, promoters and lovers, entertainers, fashionistas, glitterati
VISIT WEST HOLLYWOOD

hippies—and fueling a renaissance in and people-watchers alike indulge their


music clubs, including Troubadour and senses and let loose here.
Whisky a Go Go, that are now part of rock West Hollywood is home to a vibrant
’n’ roll lore. The Troubadour cultivated gay and lesbian community and the largest
singer-songwriters like Randy Newman, Russian community in the U.S. outside of

92 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
New York. The city hosts a number of section of San Vicente and Santa Monica
must-see annual events such as Halloween Boulevard, a reflection of West Holly-
Carnaval, when nearly 500,000 people cel- wood’s inclusiveness. » LIVE IT UP!
ebrate in the streets, and in June, the LA Next, head over to Sunset Boulevard and
PRIDE Festival, one of the largest gay pride visit Book Soup, an independent and
Tourism Websites
celebrations in the country. beloved local bookstore known for its
visitwesthollywood.com
celebrity readings and teetering towers of weho.org
Get Pampered, Shop, Eat & Rock Out books on music, art and film. facebook.com/wehoarts
To prepare yourself for a packed day in As the evening progresses, enjoy the weho.org/business/
West Hollywood, visit a first-class spa like pulse-pounding nightlife of the Strip and stir weho-pickup
The Gendarmerie or Voda. Then enjoy the it up at Whisky a Go Go, 1 Oak and The Roxy.
finest culinary creations where celebrities Or, if still energized for more entertainment, Events
like to dine with a touch of glamour at Cec- go south to Santa Monica Boulevard to the visitwesthollywood.com/
coni’s West Hollywood serving up refined popular gay clubs like Flaming Saddles, The
halloween-carnaval
Northern Italian cuisine, or savor modern- Abbey Food & Bar and Here Lounge. On
weho.org/pride
American dim sum at The Church Key. Friday and Saturday evenings, hop onto The
lapride.org
Now fortified, walk around the West PickUp Line, WeHo’s free trolley service, a
Hollywood Design District, bounded by six-mile circular line shuttling passengers
Melrose Avenue, Robertson Boulevard and between the city’s most popular venues on
Spa, Food & Fashion
Beverly Boulevard. Anchored by the Pacific Santa Monica Boulevard. thegendarmerie.com
Design Center, this area is a shopping Finally, rest your feet and lounge at one vodaspa.com
mecca for interiors and top fashions such of the many A-list hotels such as the cecconiswesthollywood.com
as Moschino, Christian Louboutin and 3.1 Sunset Tower, an elegant Art Deco building thechurchkeyla.com
Phillip Lim. Next, head over to Santa known for its city views and famous westhollywood
Monica Boulevard and see where locals eat former residents including Howard designdistrict.com
and shop. Grab a sandwich at Mendocino Hughes, Elizabeth Taylor and Frank pacificdesigncenter.com
Farms, sangria at Café D’Étoile or coffee at Sinatra; or the London West Hollywood,
mendocinofarms.com
Mocafe. Don’t miss walking across the known for its impeccable service, chic
cafedetoile.net
rainbow-colored crosswalks at the inter- interiors and rooftop bar.
mocafela.com
booksoup.com

Nightlife
theroxy.com
troubadour.com
whiskyagogo.com
1oakla.com
flamingsaddles.com
abbeyfoodandbar.com
herelounge.com
sunsettowerhotel.com
thelondonwesthollywood.com

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 93
REDONDO BEACH
SoCal’s family friendly seaside playground

BY MICHAEL SHAPIRO

PERCHED ALONGSIDE the Pacific Ocean shops, rides and restaurants. Dining options
with glorious sands and a lively pier, Redondo include seafood, Mexican specialties and hot
SWIM, BIKE,
» DINE, RELAX! Beach is an ideal venue for living the Cali-
fornia dream, even if only for the weekend.
dogs. And there are more choices, such as a
bakery and a Japanese restaurant, on the pier’s
Redondo Beach Just seven miles from LAX and not far from adjacent International Boardwalk.
Chamber of Commerce Los Angeles’ top attractions, historic Redondo The city’s cultural anchor is the Redondo
& Visitors Bureau Beach is a destination in its own right. Beach Performing Arts Center. The 1,457-seat
visitredondo.com Typically sunny and in the 80s in summer venue hosts performances by the Los
and comfortable most of the rest of the year, Angeles Ballet, a slack key guitar festival, The
the beach is less crowded than better-known Nutcracker and theatrical musicals such as
sands in Malibu and Santa Monica. Activities Jersey Boys.
range from sport fishing to whale watching, For lodging, a top pick is The Portofino, a
REDONDO BEACH panorama, above; diving, surfing and stand-up paddle boarding waterfront hotel located in Redondo Beach’s
shopping at South Bay Galleria, below. to biking and beach volleyball. marina with soul-stirring ocean views.
Redondo Beach rose to prominence early While staying in Redondo Beach, don’t miss
in the 20th century when George Freeth came SEA Lab, a marine science education center
from Oahu and introduced surfing to the (lacorps.org/programs/sea-lab).
mainland. Known as the “Man Who Can If you’re in Redondo Beach between
Walk on Water,” Freeth attracted thousands November and April, look out to sea and try MORTAUPAT/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; REDONDO BEACH CVB

of spectators who gawked in amazement as to spot gray whales migrating between Cali-
he rode his eight-foot-long wooden surf- fornia and Mexico. You can often see the
board from sea to shore. behemoths from shore; to get closer, book a
Today the Redondo Beach Pier attracts visi- whale-watching tour on a boat such as the
tors with events including the annual Redondo Voyager (voyagerexcursions.com).
th
Beach Lobster Festival (LobsterFestival.com), 38 But don’t feel obliged to fill your
Annual Super Bowl Sunday 10k/5k run/walk schedule. Perhaps the best way to enjoy
(Redondo10k.com), a classic car show and a kite Redondo Beach is to simply relax in the
festival (redondopier.com/events). On the third sand, watch the waves curl and enjoy some
Saturday of each month there are free yoga ses- California dreamin’ in one of the state’s pre-
sions on the pier, which has more than 50 mier beach towns.

94 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
LA WATERFRONT
Bring the family and explore LA’s maritime past

BY JACQUELINE YAU

TWENTY MINUTES SOUTH of downtown African backgrounds, it is also home to the

STROLL, DINE, Los Angeles, framing the busiest container first Wienerschnitzel restaurant, the world’s
» PLAY, EXPLORE! port and global trade gateway in the United largest lobster festival and the only
States, is the LA Waterfront. This emerging remaining Warner Brothers theater in the
LA Waterfront destination encompasses LA’s San Pedro and nation (the Warner Grand, a gorgeous Art
Visitor Information Wilmington communities and delights even Deco movie palace). Due to the work of John
lawaterfront.org native Angelenos, many of whom don’t yet Olguin, San Pedro’s beloved marine life edu-
facebook.com/LAWaterfront know that this place exists. More than a cator, the nation’s first commercial whale
decade ago, redevelopment began to turn the watching program for children launched
waterfront from an industrial area to a place here in 1972, and the Frank Gehry-designed
filled with recreational spaces, artists’ stu- Cabrillo Marine Aquarium was established.
ST
1 THURSDAY ARTWALKS bring dios and restored historical sites all geared Get ready to explore more than fifty points
out all ages, above; children explore for families and visitors. of interest along the LA Waterfront, starting
the tide pool at Cabrillo Marine
In 1542, Portuguese explorer Juan Rodriguez with the spectacular water ballet at the
Aquarium, below.
Cabrillo visited San Pedro Bay, surrounded by Gateway Fanfare Fountain near the World
tidal flats and marshes. Centuries later, Cruise Center. Visit San Pedro’s historic art
through the efforts of the “Father of Los district, LA Maritime Museum, Ports O’Call
Angeles Harbor” Phineas Banning and his Village, CRAFTED weekend artisan market-
sons, the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 place, Brouwerij West (a brewery with
and the result of shipbuilding for both World Belgian-inspired ales), Banning Museum, the
Wars, LA’s working class harbor has trans- Battleship USS Iowa museum and SS Lane
formed into one of the world’s busiest ports. Victory (a fully operational World War II-era
The LA Waterfront is not only a multi- cargo ship museum). Events include open art
ethnic stew of descendants from the original studios during 1st Thursday Artwalks, live
LA WATERFRONT

fishing families that came from Italy, music performances, Los Angeles Fleet Week
Croatia, Greece, Portugal, Norway and Japan, (three-day event over Labor Day) and annual
and of “new” residents with Mexican and classic car shows and film festivals.

96 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
ORANGE COUNTY
Beyond surfer dudes and Mickey Mouse, an ethnic melting pot with artistic energy

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL AND MARIBETH MELLIN


TOP CITIES
Anaheim, Buena Park, Costa Mesa, Fullerton,

D
Garden Grove, Huntington Beach, Irvine, isneyland put Anaheim, and thus Orange County, on the
Laguna Beach, Newport Beach, Orange,
travel map, but visitors lost no time following locals to the
San Juan Capistrano, Santa Ana, San Clemente
warm, idyllic beach cities dotting 42 miles of postcard-
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY worthy coastline. Celebrities and surfers alike congregate on
John Wayne/Orange County Airport (SNA), now-famous beaches enhanced by historic missions, art colonies,
located at the juncture of Costa Mesa,
Santa Ana and Newport Beach near I-405 scenic marinas and renowned surf breaks.
Its teeming freeways reveal little more than mirrored office build-
TOURISM WEBSITES ings, sprawling malls and cookie-cutter residential developments,
visittheoc.com
but behind that facade, “The OC” is surprisingly diverse. Even Ana-
visitanaheim.org
visitbuenapark.com heim has established its own identity apart from the “Magic
travelcostamesa.com Kingdom,” with a massive convention center complex offering out-
surfcityusa.com
door dining and concert space, the Center Street Promenade revival
destinationirvine.com
visitlagunabeach.com of its historic commerce district and the bustling Packing House
visitnewportbeach.com food hall and market.
sanjuancapistrano.org
The seductive beach towns also have their own identities, from surf-
POPULATION centric Huntington Beach to tony Newport to artsy Laguna to serene
3,145,515 San Clemente. In addition to inland cities that grew of their own
accord, master-planned communities have supplanted great swaths of
orange groves. Primary among these is Irvine, encompassing a Univer-
sity of California campus, the still-developing Orange County Great
ORANGE Park and several “villages.”
COUNTY
These varied communities host distinctive festivals, farmers mar-
kets and events. Cultural attractions and performing arts venues, such

98 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
MUST
» SEE,
DO

» Laguna Beach and Pageant of the Masters


Laguna Beach originated as a small artists’ colony in
the early 1900s, and its continuing devotion to the
arts is evident in its many festivals, galleries and
abundant public art. Best of all is Pageant of the
Masters, 90 minutes of living art tableaux in which
costumed people portray some of the world’s great
art masterpieces.
› visitlagunabeach.com
› foapom.com
» Mission San Juan Capistrano This
beautifully preserved, 18th-century mission covers 10
acres of gardens and adobe buildings in a scenic
town famous for the swallows that return every
spring. Besides the mission tours and religious
services, this important cultural hub hosts year-
round events, from rock concerts to mariachi
HISTORIC DC-3 “Flagship contests to the annual Christmas tree lighting
Orange County” at Lyon Air ceremony.
DENIS BLOFIELD/SHUTTERSTOCK; HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB; HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB; . OPPOSITE: JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK

Museum, Santa Ana, top; › missionsjc.com


surfer at sunset, Huntington
Beach, left; shopping for
» Balboa Island Ferry Fun-seekers have been
making the short crossing to Balboa Island since
suroards, above; view from 1916. You can take the ride whether you’re on two
Crescent Bay Point Park, wheels or four, or just your own two feet. Explore the
Laguna Beach, opposite. classic beach bungalow architecture and magnificent
scenery on your own, or take the two-hour Saturday
walking tour.
› balboaislandferry.com
› balboa-island.net
» Bowers Museum More than one-third of the
OC’s population is Latin American and 18 percent is
SPECIAL Asian; English is a second language for 45 percent of
» EVENTS 2016 its residents. This Santa Ana museum honors the
county’s many cultures through their art in
exhibitions that have toured nationally and
DANA POINT WHALE FESTIVAL March 5-6, 12-13, Dana Point festivalofwhales.org internationally. It also hosts cultural festivals
throughout the year.
SWALLOWS’ DAY PARADE March 12, San Juan Capistrano swallowsparade.com › bowers.org
BATTLE OF THE MARIACHIS May 14, Mission San Juan Capistrano missionsjc.com » Disneyland Resort Before exploring Disney
SAWDUST ART FESTIVAL June 24-Aug. 28, Laguna Beach sawdustartfestival.org California Adventure Park and Downtown Disney’s
array of restaurants and clubs, walk in Walt Disney’s
HUNTINGTON BEACH 4TH OF JULY PARADE July 4, Huntington Beach hb4thofjuly.org footsteps on a guided behind-the-scenes tour
revealing the imagination and challenges behind his
PAGEANT OF THE MASTERS July 7-Aug. 31, Laguna Beach foapom.com
creation of the place that forever changed the
TALL SHIPS FESTIVAL Sept. 9-11, Dana Point Harbor tallshipsfestival.com meaning of “amusement park” in 1955. Spend a night
at the acclaimed Craftsman-style Grand Californian
NEWPORT BEACH CHRISTMAS BOAT PARADE Dec. 14-18, Newport Beach Hotel and return to the park in the morning for the
christmasboatparade.com
full-on Disney experience.
› disneyland.disney.go.com

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 99
as the Orange County Performing Arts
Center and the South Coast Repertory, are DRIVE
sprinkled throughout the county. When » TOUR
retail therapy is required, destination
shopping malls such as Irvine Spectrum, Highway 1 offers the most
Costa Mesa’s South Coast Plaza and Fashion scenic drive following the
Island in Newport Beach vie with dozens of coastline from DANA
out-of-the-way local shopping districts. POINT to LONG BEACH, a
For sports fans, the Los Angeles Angels drive best attempted on
play at the Angel Stadium of Anaheim and weekdays between rush
the Anaheim Ducks hockey team speeds
hours. Stop in the popular
over the ice at Anaheim’s Honda Center, towns of LAGUNA BEACH,
which also hosts concerts with major acts
NEWPORT BEACH or
such as the Rolling Stones and Bruce Spring-
HUNTINGTON BEACH for
steen. More than 40 championship courses
a taste of the Southern
and a year-round temperate climate lure
California beach scene.
golfers. Hotel and day spas help the OC’s
beautiful people maintain tone and tan.

THE HARBOR from Ken Sampson Overlook


Park in Dana Point, above; Huntington Beach
volleyball, left; Segerstrom Center for the Arts
in Costa Mesa, opposite top; garden in San
Juan Capistrano Mission, opposite bottom.

100 2016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
INSIDER’S
» TIP
After the fall of Saigon, droves of
Vietnamese refugees touched
down first at Camp Pendleton,
just south of the county line.
Many stayed and became the
largest Vietnamese community
outside of Vietnam. LITTLE
SAIGON, straddling Westminster
and Garden Grove, held Southern
California’s first Tet Festival, the
exuberant lunar new year
celebration. It also published the
country’s first Vietnamese
newspaper and elected the first
Vietnamese-American to public
office. To delve into this rich
culture, browse the shops at
City & Town Family Fun ASIAN GARDEN MALL, find
Orange County encompasses 34 cities and Disneyland and Knott’s Berry Farm might unique specialty ingredients at

several master-planned communities but be all most kids need to hear about Orange A. DONG SUPERMARKET and seek
lacks a single distinctive downtown. Dis- County, but there’s plenty more. Thrills respite from city streets at the

neyland makes Anaheim the most famous, await parents and kids at Sky Zone Ana- CHUA HUE QUANG Buddhist
but history buffs enjoy San Juan Capis- heim’s indoor trampolines and the temple. Stylish QUAN HY turns
CHRIS COSTEA; RARENA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: KESTERHU/SHUTTERSTOCK; JON BILOUS/SHUTTERSTOCK

trano’s mission, Yorba Linda’s Nixon 100-plus hands-on exhibits and 4D theater out upscale lunches, while simple
restaurants throughout the area
Presidential Library and the restored Vic- at Santa Ana’s Discovery Science Center.
serve pho, the traditional
torian homes and historic commercial And what better way to learn about marine
Vietnamese staple.
centers in Santa Ana and Orange. Hunt- science and maritime history than on a tall
littlesaigonnow.com
ington Beach offers the most vibrant ship or a research vessel with Dana Point’s
downtown beside the sea. Ocean Institute?

The Great Outdoors


For a mega-suburb, Orange County is
packed with natural wonders. Its coast
contains world-famous surf spots (Hunt-
ington Beach, the Wedge at Newport
Beach, Trestles in San Clemente), yacht
harbors (Newport Beach, Dana Point) and
Crystal Cove State Park’s protected under-
water reserve. Doheny State Beach,
California’s first, is adjacent to one of sev-
eral wetland reserves filled with birds.
Wild inland canyons and parks offer
countless hiking and biking trails.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 101
HUNTINGTON BEACH
Mellow surf vibe and chic shopping and dining
are quintessential Southern California

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL

WHEN LEGENDARY Surfer George Freeth This city on the fabled Pacific Coast

DINE, SHOP, brought the age-old sport to Southern Cali- Highway is more than its beaches. Beginning
» SURF, PLAY! fornia in 1907, he brought Huntington
Beach’s destiny along with him. In 2006, the
where the beach leaves off, downtown
beckons avid shoppers and diners to its
Visit city won the official “Surf City USA” trade- lively, casual mix of surf shacks, outdoor
Huntington Beach mark on the strength of its history, ten miles cafés and bohemian bars. A self-guided his-
surfcityusa.com of tawny sand, extraordinarily consistent tory walk from the pier takes in not just
waves, and its longtime role as host of the surfing landmarks but the site of the Hunt-
annual U.S. Open of Surfing. The Interna- ington Beach Company, railroad tycoon
BEACH FUN HAPPENS both day, below, tional Surfing Museum, a favorite pilgrimage, Henry Huntington’s brainchild that devel-
and night, above. displays exhibits on titans of surfing and oped much of the original city, along with
such historic relics as massive early 20th-cen- surviving turn-of-the-20th-century architec-
tury longboards. tural gems.
Much of life happens outdoors in Hunt- One-fifth of a mile south and well within
ington Beach (pop. 200,000), from The Ocean view of HB’s iconic pier, the new Pacific City
Strand, a paved beach path, to the superb beachfront shopping, dining and artisanal
Huntington State Beach stretching three marketplace opened in late 2015. Its upscale
miles south of the pier, to leafy, 350-acre Cen- shops and restaurants favor local indie
tral Park. The Strand is ideal for family bike stores, including a specialty food hall called
rides or a spin in a surrey, and the beach Lot 159 after the nearby lifeguard stations,
draws kids of all ages to play in the surf or plus popular hipster brands from Los
HUNTINGTON BEACH CVB

build bonfires at sunset. The pride of the city Angeles, Chicago and New York. Four ocean-
is the Bolsa Chica Ecological Reserve and front resort hotels, including the new
Huntington Beach Wetlands, the largest 250-room Pasea Hotel & Spa opening in
restored saltwater marsh between Monterey summer 2016, are all within easy walking dis-
Bay and the Mexican border. tance of downtown and Pacific City.

102 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
LAGUNA BEACH
Oasis at the seaside

BY MICHAEL SHAPIRO

LOCATED ON THE COAST about 50 miles ater as a live orchestra plays along with live
PADDLE, SHOP, south of Los Angeles, Laguna Beach is a sub- narration; it’s an exhilarating performance,
» VIEW THE ART lime destination for sun worshippers, outdoor from July 7 to Aug. 31. The Pageant is part of
enthusiasts and art lovers, with more beach- Festival of Arts, one of the nation’s oldest
Laguna Beach front lodging than any other city in California. and most highly acclaimed juried fine art
Tourism Information In the early 1900s its idyllic beauty attracted shows, from July 5 to Aug. 31.
visitlagunabeach.com well-known artists who founded the Laguna Perhaps the best year-round activity is to
Beach Art Association and set the course for the walk along the trails of Heisler Park on the
seaside hamlet to remain a locus of creativity. bluffs above the beaches. The natural beauty
Laguna Beach’s first art gallery opened in of sea, sand and wildflowers is accentuated
SUNSET ON MAIN BEACH, above; 1918 and is now the Laguna Art Museum, which by sculptures placed along the trail and
shopping in downtown Laguna Beach, features more than 3,500 works by California artists who bring their easels and paint. The
below. th
artists from the early 19 century to the present park is a great place for a picnic, or you can
day. On tap for 2016 are a Helen Lundeberg ret- eat at nearby restaurants such as Las Brisas.
rospective and an exhibition of drawings by Los Some favorites among Laguna Beach’s
Angeles modernist Frederick Hammersley. Art more than 80 restaurants include Nirvana
festivals enliven Laguna Beach during summer. Grille, whose menus change with the
The Laguna Beach Music Festival (Feb. 10- seasons, and Slapfish, specializing in super-
14) features such outstanding classical and fresh seafood from owner/chef Andrew
contemporary talents as violinist Jennifer Koh. Gruel, whose fish shack was featured on the
The seaside town (pop. 24,000) has a mild Food Network. For elegant cocktails, try Drift-
climate, typically reaching highs in the 80s wood Kitchen’s Stateroom Bar in the former
during the summer. The protected beaches home library of actor Slim Summerville.
and waters are ideal for dolphin and whale Among the other attractions, the Pacific
watching, volleyball, kayaking, snorkeling, Marine Mammal Center (open daily, free but
tide pooling and stand-up paddle boarding. donations appreciated) is a rescue center for
Laguna Beach’s seven-mile coastline is pro- sea lions and other marine mammals that
tected as a marine reserve: fishing and have been injured or stranded along the
motorized vehicles are banned, and no crea- Orange County coastline.
tures can be touched in the tide pools. The Free Laguna Beach Trolley shuttles
Don’t miss Pageant of the Masters, a 90- visitors along the coast daily during the
minute show of living art masterpieces, such summer months, and on Friday evenings,
VISIT LAGUNA BEACH

as The Last Supper or paintings by Norman Saturdays and Sundays from September
Rockwell, created by people dressed as the through June. The motorized trolleys
figures they represent. These tableaux resemble San Francisco cable cars but run on
vivants come to life in an outdoor amphithe- roads, not tracks.

104 2016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
COSTA MESA
City of the Arts also offers retail therapy and is a foodie haven
TM

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL

TUCKED BETWEEN Anaheim and the mixing diverse and quirky shops and eating
coveted zip codes of Newport Beach on the spots with art and DJ events; across the
SHOP, EAT,
» PLAY, STAY coast, Costa Mesa (pop. 113,000) would be
easy for a visitor speeding through the city
street, The CAMP is a bastion of eco-con-
scious local artisans, equally enticing for
Costa Mesa Conference on the I-405 freeway to dismiss as a typical innovative restaurants serving rabbit tacos,
& Visitor Bureau suburb, except for one thing: the locals native cashew cheese and gelato flights. The
travelcostamesa.com streaming in from all corners of the county OC MIX is a something-for-everyone collec-
and beyond to the city’s retail centers, inven- tion of unique shops and specialty foods.
tive restaurants and major arts venues. The Foodies can eat their way from Costa Mesa to
SEGERSTROM CENTER FOR THE ARTS, coast is within easy reach, but Costa Mesa is Newport Beach along the renowned East 17th
above; couple dining at The LAB in Costa
removed from the crowds and offers less St. Culinary Corridor, but even the funky
Mesa, below.
expensive lodging. strip malls harbor intriguing indie shops.
First a native village visited by Mission Costa Mesa adopted the motto, “City of the
San Juan Capistrano padres who grazed Arts,” in 1999. The four performance halls,
cattle there, and later a prosperous agricul- studio space and education lab of the
tural community, Costa Mesa hosted many Segerstrom Center for the Arts constitute
thousands of trainees during World War II at Orange County’s primary performing arts
the Santa Ana Army Air Base (site of today’s venue, hosting three resident companies and
Civic Center, Orange Coast College and offering the best lineup of Broadway shows,
COSTA MESA CONFERENCE & VISITOR BUREAU

county fairgrounds). Many returned after the dance and musical performers outside of Los
war, rapidly building the city into a major Angeles. Also notable: the South Coast Reper-
commercial and industrial center. tory theater, Costa Mesa Playhouse, and a local
Luxurious South Coast Plaza is the West secret: the California Scenario, also called the
Coast’s largest shopping destination and “Noguchi Garden” for famous artist Isamu
claims one of the world’s largest collections Noguchi, whose 1.6-acre sculpture garden
of fashion designers, but Costa Mesa also weaves native plants and stone into an abstract
hosts a thriving alternative shopping cul- representation of the state’s redwoods, desert,
ture. The LAB “antimall” started the trend, and everything in between.

106 2016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SAN DIEGO COUNTY
From sun-kissed shoreline to inland desertscapes,
wide open spaces meet urban culture and history

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL AND MARIBETH MELLIN

TOP CITIES

C
alifornia has no shortage of beach towns, but San Diego is its only
San Diego, Coronado, Chula Vista, La Jolla, Del Mar,
Encinitas, Solana Beach, Carlsbad, Oceanside, “beach city,” with the state’s second-largest population but also 70
Escondido, El Cajon, Julian, Borrego Springs miles of scenic coastline and an ideal climate (averaging 70 degrees)
in which to enjoy them. Those sands, a wealth of outdoor recreation and
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY
family-oriented attractions are the city’s primary lure, but San Diego takes the
San Diego International Airport (SAN), also known as
Lindbergh Field, is conveniently located on the edge of “city” part seriously, too. Arts and intellectual pursuits enjoy deep support here,
downtown and writers, artists, musicians and scientists find inspiration while surfing at
La Jolla Shores or jogging in Mission Bay Park. The Tony-winning Old Globe
TOURISM WEBSITES
and La Jolla Playhouse frequently send plays to Broadway. Scientific landmarks
sandiego.org
lajollabythesea.com include the Salk Institute and Scripps Institute of Oceanography, magnets for
coronadovisitorcenter.com some of the world’s brightest minds.
delmarmainstreet.com Downtown’s diversions alone could easily fill a week. Something is always
visitcarlsbad.com
going on in the Gaslamp Quarter, Little Italy and East Village, neighborhoods
RIGUCCI/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LILYLING1982/SHUTTERSTOCK
visitoceanside.com
eastcountychamber.org packed with restaurants, clubs and shops. The Embarcadero traces San Diego
Bay’s edge, offering access to the USS Midway aircraft carrier turned museum;
POPULATION the Maritime Museum with its venerable Star of India’s tall sails and new San
3 million
Salvador, a replica of Spanish explorers’ ships; the expansive Waterfront Park;
and the sail-like rooftop of the San Diego Convention Center.
Cruise ships berth at the foot of Broadway, the main artery into downtown,
and passengers into San Diego International Airport fly over high-rise business
towers to land at the northern edge of downtown. Just a couple of blocks from

SAN the Embarcadero, the Santa Fe Depot also funnels Amtrak passengers into the
DIEGO city center. Hotels of every description and hip-quotient are scattered
COUNTY throughout the city’s core, making it one of the region’s most desirable places
to stay while exploring the county.

108 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
MUST
A Bridge to Coronado
The swooping San Diego-Coronado
» SEE,
Bridge connects downtown to Coronado, DO
a genteel city with an active Navy base. Its
“island” actually is a peninsula tethered
to the mainland by the Silver Strand, a
narrow strip of road and sand running » USS Midway Though known for its beaches
past quiet lagoons and pristine beaches and cultural diversions, San Diego is a Navy town at
heart. This 1,001-foot-long, 20th-century aircraft
to the southern part of the county.
carrier museum honors the more than 200,000
Whether you arrive by bridge or by ferry, sailors who served aboard the vessel over its 47
Coronado promises serenity by one of years at sea and spotlights the city’s rich military
the world’s loveliest beaches—named history. Exhibits and activities include the new
holographic Battle of Midway Theater, restored
America’s best by Dr. Beach in 2012—after skimming the water through the Coro- aircraft, flight simulators and a self-guided audio
the rigors of urban exploring. The Victo- nado Cays in a gondola, visiting the tour of the crew’s living and working quarters.
rian confection called the Hotel del Coronado Museum of History & Art, › midway.org
Coronado commands this broad sweep of ogling the San Diego skyline from Tide-
» La Jolla This upscale Mediterranean-style
impeccable white sand. Coronado’s lands Park and, on the other side of the community lives up to its name (“The Jewel” in
beguiling simple pleasures include shop- bridge, teeing off at the stellar Coronado Spanish), with a postcard-ready setting, white sands,
turquoise waters, sea caves (including Sunny Jim
ping and dining on Orange Avenue, Municipal Golf Course on Glorietta Bay.
Cave, California’s only known land-access sea cave)
and an Underwater Park teeming with pinnipeds,
SAN DIEGO-CORONADO BRIDGE, above; San Diego from Coronado island, opposite. rays, scuttling lobsters and countless fish. It’s not
just another pretty face, though; it hosts the Tony
Award-winning La Jolla Playhouse, Museum of
SPECIAL Contemporary Art San Diego, Murals of La Jolla and

» EVENTS 2016 the Birch Aquarium—while also offering the “Rodeo


Drive of San Diego,” named for Prospect Street’s
stellar shops, galleries and restaurants.

FARMERS INSURANCE OPEN Jan. 28-31, Torrey Pines Golf Course, La Jolla
› lajollabythesea.com
farmersinsuranceopen.com
» San Diego Zoo Known for its naturalistic
GASLAMP QUARTER MARDI GRAS Feb. 6, Downtown San Diego sdmardigras.com habitats, endangered animal species and adorable
giant pandas, the zoo requires a minimum of a full
ART WALK @ LITTLE ITALY April 30-May 1, Little Italy artwalksandiego.org
day. Allow time for the fabulous shops.
FIESTA OLD TOWN CINCO DE MAYO April 30-May 1, Old Town San Diego › sandiegozoo.org
cincodemayooldtown.com

ROCK ’N’ ROLL MARATHON June 3-5, Central San Diego runrocknroll.competitor.com/san-diego » Balboa Park The country’s largest urban
cultural park is a rambling landscape of museums,
SAN DIEGO COUNTY FAIR June 3-July 4, Del Mar Fairgrounds sdfair.com theaters, artists’ studios and gardens. The tiled
PORT OF SAN DIEGO BIG BAY BOOM July 4, San Diego Bay bigbayboom.com California Tower, with its unobstructed 360-degree
view of the park and city, has become a treasured
COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL July 20-24, Downtown San Diego comic-con.org landmark, reopened after an 80-year closure for the
DEL MAR THOROUGHBRED CLUB HORSERACING July 15-Sept. 5, Nov. 10-Dec. 4, Del Mar park’s centennial in 2015
dmtc.com › balboapark.org
SAN DIEGO LGBT PRIDE PARADE, RALLY & FESTIVAL July 16, Hillcrest and Balboa Park
sdpride.org » Coronado Islanders at a happy remove from
Downtown’s bustle and clamor revel in their serene,
ARTWALK NTC @ LIBERTY STATION Aug. 13-14, San Diego artwalksandiego.org small-town ambience with beautifully restored
SAN DIEGO BEER WEEK Nov. 4-13, Throughout San Diego County www.sdbw.org Victorian homes and wide streets festooned with rose
gardens. The Hotel del Coronado serves as a landmark
POINSETTIA BOWL & HOLIDAY BOWL December, Qualcomm Stadium Mission Valley and attraction for the compact community, which
sandiegobowlgames.com/poinsettia-bowl
actually sits on a peninsula rather than an island.
› coronadovisitorcenter.com

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 109
LA JOLLA SHORES is a popular place for
beach activities of all kinds, including
launching kayaks and canoes, right.

INSIDER’S
» TIP
Tex-Mex has nothing on San
Diego’s newest food sensation,
CALI-BAJA, a creative fusion
born of California’s locavore
movement and Mexico’s Baja-
Med cuisine. Baja-Med, created
in Tijuana, blends traditional
Mexican cooking with
Mediterranean ingredients and
techniques. San Diego’s location Balboa Park City & Town
and climate ensure year-round San Diego’s century-old cultural heart occu- Prescient developers and preservationists
fresh bounty from land and sea pies 1,200 acres of hills and canyons just have given San Diego an exciting, cosmo-
on both sides of the border. east of downtown. It hosts 16 museums and politan downtown with several hip
Chef Javier Plascencia first The Old Globe theater, winner of multiple neighborhoods, beginning with the his-
brought his Tijuana vision Tony Awards. Its most famous tenant, the toric Gaslamp Quarter in the 1980s. Its
across the border to ROMESCO justly renowned San Diego Zoo, celebrates picturesque streets are packed with classy
MEXITERRANEAN BISTRO in its Centennial in 2016 with a huge new restaurants and clubs in restored 19th-cen-
Bonita, 10 miles north of the Africa Rocks exhibit. Gourmet restaurants tury Victorian, Baroque and Frontier

border; and in spring 2015 he and gorgeous Victorian mansions line quiet buildings. Petco Park, downtown’s excep-
streets in nearby neighborhoods such as tional baseball stadium and sometime
founded BRACERO: COCINA
Bankers Hill, Hillcrest and Mission Hills. concert venue, spurred development of
MEXICANA DE RAIZ in Little
the burgeoning East Village neighborhood
Italy. Cali-Baja has spread
Beach Towns filled with trendy condo complexes, bou-
throughout San Diego and
The coast between the Mexican border (18 tiques, cafés and a stunning Central
throughout price ranges. Try
miles south of downtown) and Oceanside Library. Little Italy, a few blocks north of
PUESTO in Seaport Village, the
is lined with beach towns. Each has a downtown’s core, managed to hold on to
BLIND BURRO in the Gaslamp
unique character, from Ocean Beach’s some venerable pizza parlors, bakeries
Quarter or GALAXY BURRITO in
hippie holdover vibe to classy La Jolla’s and bars while evolving from a simple
La Jolla—that is, pretty much
DOBINO/SHUTTERSTOCK

Mediterranean village atmosphere. Italian community into a desirable urban


anywhere a craving for fresh,
Beloved by surfers and escapists with suf- neighborhood of modernist condo com-
truly multicultural cuisine
ficient wherewithal, a series of small plexes, trendy shops and gourmet
might strike.
communities line the coast north of La restaurants helmed by some of the
Jolla’s pristine Torrey Pines State Reserve. region’s top chefs.

110 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
As the hub of San Diego’s nightlife The Great Outdoors
scene, the entire downtown now pulses Surfers, swimmers, boaters and anglers all
with energy day and night. The city has play in and on the Pacific Ocean, from Mis-
become one of the nation’s top craft beer sion Beach’s boardwalk and Belmont Park’s
meccas, with more than 90 breweries with historic Giant Dipper roller coaster to La Jolla
a huge collection of awards. Shores’ mile-long beach with kayaking,
The urban core continues uptown diving, surfing and swimming areas. Electric
through such established neighborhoods orange Garibaldi and other exotic fish—
as Bankers Hill and Hillcrest, the lively including curious but harmless leopard
heart of the LGBT community. A brand-new sharks in late summer—draw snorkelers to
neighborhood continues to evolve on the La Jolla Cove, and harbor seals have taken
site of the former Naval Training Center, charge of the nearby Children’s Pool.
now called Liberty Station. The mixed-use East and north of the city center, the
project already has completed the Point landscape abruptly gives way to rolling
Loma residential area, along with stores, foothills and canyons. Lakes and reservoirs
office space, galleries and educational offer freshwater fishing and tranquility.
facilities. The capstone, occupying the The vast Anza-Borrego Desert State Park,
base’s Spanish Colonial-style former com- home of “California’s Grand Canyon” at
missary building, is the new Liberty Public Fonts Point, provides hiking trails through
Market, next to the existing Stone Brewery palm canyons and fields of cacti, and puts
and Restaurant. on dazzling spring wildflower displays.
CASA DEL PRADO at Balboa Park in
San Diego, left.

Family Fun
Adults and children alike relish the San
Diego Zoo and its separate Safari Park,
LEGOLAND California and SeaWorld San
Diego. Downtown’s New Children’s
Museum is an eco-friendly playground for
all ages, with multicultural, bilingual
exhibits that make learning fun, and its
Heritage & Culture Cabrillo’s brief but momentous stay is adjacent one-acre park allows kids to burn
Explorer Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo, long commemorated at Cabrillo National Monu- energy. Teens flock to fighter planes and
claimed by Portugal but now believed to ment at the tip of Point Loma overlooking the flight simulators at the USS Midway
have been Spanish, discovered San Diego bay. European settlers who returned in 1769 Museum; the aircraft carrier is the most-
Bay in 1542 but sailed on north, leaving built a fort and mission church at Presidio visited ship museum in the world. Top
the Kumeyaay Indians to their warm, Hill, a gorgeous swath of lawns above Old choices for inexpensive entertainment:
bountiful home. San Diego County’s 18 Town State Historic Park, which contains Bicycling at Mission Bay and Coronado,
tribes represent the largest concentration many of San Diego’s oldest buildings. Today’s fishing off piers in Imperial Beach and
in the country, and more than half benefit downtown evolved in a burst of development Ocean Beach, stargazing from Mount
today from casinos in the east and north in 1867, producing the historic homes that Palomar and spotting spring wildflowers
county areas. give the vibrant Gaslamp Quarter its character. in the Anza-Borrego Desert.

DRIVE
» TOUR OCEANSIDE

CARLSBAD

Historic Highway 101, also called the PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY, runs through
San Diego’s idyllic NORTH COUNTY coastal communities, passing by gor-
geous long beaches and wild lagoons. You can do the trip in a couple of
hours, but why hurry? Begin at the north end of La Jolla at TORREY PINES
LEUCADIA
STATE PARK and descend a steep hill to Torrey Pines beach, then uphill again
MOONLIGHT BEACH
ENCINITAS
to DEL MAR. Stop signs at each block force you to slow down and appreciate
the Tudor-style buildings and quaint shops and cafés in town before you CARDIFF-BY-THE-SEA

descend again and cruise through SOLANA BEACH, CARDIFF-BY-THE-SEA,


SOLANA BEACH
ENCINITAS, LEUCADIA, CARLSBAD and OCEANSIDE. Each town’s main street
presents an array of dining and browsing options, from funky Mexican take- DEL MAR

out stands to fancy restaurants on the sand. Of the many beaches along the
way, MOONLIGHT BEACH in Encinitas presents the most playtime possibili- TORREY PINES
STATE PARK
ties including a playground, snack bar, picnic tables and a year-round
SHALUNTS/SHUTTERSTOCK

lifeguard station. Take your time and stop often. The distance between
Torrey Pines and Oceanside is only 25 miles, but you can easily spend a full
day exploring. When you’re ready to return to central San Diego, just hop on
I-5 South at one of the many entrances along 101.

112 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SAN DIEGO ZOO
& SAFARI PARK
Born to be wild

BY CHRISTINE DELSOL AND MARIBETH MELLIN

ONE OF THE WORLD’S 10 largest zoos, 14, 2016, a new film about the zoo’s conser-
San Diego Zoo earns its worldwide fame on vation work was unveiled in January, and
many fronts. It pioneered the concept of a history-oriented multimedia animal
zoos without cages. It houses 4,000 ani- show opens in March. A 75-foot mural
mals representing 660 species on 100 acres depicting the zoo’s history already fes-
of Balboa Park, forming a lush, 700,000- toons Centennial Plaza, behind the Reptile
plant arboretum in the process of House.
re-creating the animals’ natural habitats.
Many of its denizens are increasingly San Diego Zoo Safari Park
scarce in the wild. Perhaps most impor- Originally a breeding facility for the down-
tant, the zoo’s Institute for Conservation town zoo, this 1,800-acre adjunct park 35
Research lends its expertise to 132 conser- miles to the northeast in Escondido offers
vation and species-preservation projects wide open spaces where more than 2,600
in 62 countries and has been instrumental animals run free. While it concentrates on STAR ATTRACTION of the Panda Trek, top;
in replenishing populations of the giant herd animals such as giraffes, antelopes relaxing on the Tiger Trail, above.

condor, giant panda and Tasmanian devil, and rhinos from the African and Asian
among many other species. savannahs, the park houses about 300
The Panda Trek and the Australian Out- species. Many rotate between the down- exotic birds. To focus on a favorite animal,
back, home to koalas mingling with other town zoo and the Safari Park. join one of the various safaris, undertaken
marsupials and birds, are among the most Getting close to these creatures can be by cart, trike, jungle ropes or zip line. You
popular areas. 2015 brought a new Asian as simple as walking through areas such as can even sleep among the animals on a
SAN DIEGO ZOO & SAFARI PARK

leopard habitat and a pair of endangered the Tiger Trail, the Lemur Walk or the Roar and Snore Safari. Like the downtown
African penguins, the vanguard of what Cheetah Run, where you can feel the zoo, the Safari Park creates a lineup of spe-
will be a large breeding flock in a major whoosh of the world’s fastest cat speeding cial exhibits and animal presentations that
new Africa Rocks project to open in 2017. past you. Riding on the popular Africa guarantee a new experience even for visi-
The focus right now is the zoo’s centen- Tram presents photo ops with herds of tors who return over and over throughout
nial. Leading up to the main event on May giraffes, crashes of rhinos and flocks of their lives.

114 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA
The Bay Area’s diversity and scenic beauty make it a top destination

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO


TOP CITIES
San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley, San Jose, Napa,
Sonoma, Palo Alto, Santa Rosa, Sausalito

T
he San Francisco Bay Area never disappoints visitors: the
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS majestic towers of the Golden Gate Bridge, the San Francisco
San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 12 miles skyline and other cities of culture and great dining, ancient
(19 km) from downtown San Francisco; Oakland redwood groves, expansive vineyards and a coastline of rocky cliffs and
International Airport (OAK), 8 miles (13 km) from
sandy beaches. Combine those with a Mediterranean climate and a
downtown Oakland; San Jose International Airport
(SJC), 4 miles (6 km) from downtown San Jose dynamic environment of high-tech entrepreneurs and it’s no wonder
the San Francisco Bay Area encourages a seductive, can-do way of life
TOURISM WEBSITES that revolves around the high energy of its residents and the great out-
sanfrancisco.travel visitoakland.org
doors at its doorstep. The hub of the area is San Francisco, a city of
visitnapavalley.com santaclara.org
santacruzca.org sanjose.org diverse neighborhoods, world-class cuisine and a welcoming spirit of

SARAPORN/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LUCIANO MORTULA/SHUTTERSTOCK


sanmateocountycvb.com visitmarin.org openness and tolerance in the most European of American cities.
visitberkeley.com sonomacounty.com Besides the landmark bridge, other popular attractions draw millions
sonomavalley.com
each year to what boosters call “Everyone’s Favorite City” at the center
POPULATION of the Bay Area.
7.35 million
North Bay: Marin, Sonoma & Napa
Across the Golden Gate to the north lies Marin County, one of the most
beautiful and affluent areas of the U.S. Sausalito, Tiburon and Mill
Valley are among its many inviting towns. The mountain bike was
invented here to maneuver the twisty trails on Mount Tamalpais. On
the Marin coast, one ruggedly gorgeous beach follows another,
SAN including along spectacular Point Reyes National Seashore.
FRANCISCO Also in the North Bay, Sonoma and Napa counties are home to acres
BAY AREA
of vineyards and dozens of wineries producing some of the world’s

116 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
THE GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE spans the
entrance to San Francisco Bay, right; an
aerial view of downtown San Francisco,
opposite.

finest wines. Among the small towns


full of boutiques, shops and tasting
rooms is the Napa Valley hamlet of MUST
Yountville, a foodie dining mecca, with » SEE,
several Michelin-starred restaurants. DO
South Bay: Palo Alto
& Santa Cruz
In Palo Alto on the peninsula south of
San Francisco lies the bucolic campus » SAMPLE LOCAL FARE San Francisco is
perennially rated tops in the U.S. for its dining, and
of Stanford University, one of the choke fields and miles of pristine
visits aren’t complete without stops at the Ferry
country’s leading universities. Neigh- beaches. Santa Cruz County to the Building’s Marketplace and neighborhoods such as
boring San Mateo County’s coastline south offers visitors a wealth of attrac- Chinatown for dim sum at City View or the Mission
for tacos at La Taqueria, a burrito at Taqueria Cancun
still shows its traditional fishing and tions, including parks and wineries in
or pastries at renowned Tartine Bakery.
agricultural roots. It’s within a short its redwood-covered mountain range, › sanfrancisco.travel
drive of major population centers yet a and laid-back beaches where surfers
world away, with its sprawling arti- polish their technique. » SEE THE REDWOODS Muir Woods is the
most popular old growth redwood grove close to
San Francisco, but it is also the most packed. You
can avoid crowds and gape at equally awe-inspiring
mammoth trees at Sonoma County’s Armstrong
Woods State Natural Reserve or Big Basin Redwoods
DRIVE State Park in the Santa Cruz mountains.
» TOUR › parks.ca.gov

» URBAN OUTING Oakland has undergone a


Start by crossing the Golden boom in its food and cultural scene, with its
Gate Bridge driving north, Uptown, historic Old Oakland and Temescal neigh-
borhoods undergoing a renaissance that has
stopping in SAUSALITO.
attracted new art galleries, cafés and restaurants.
Head northwest to MOUNT Jack London Square on the waterfront is also in the
TAMALPAIS STATE PARK and midst of revitalization.
take the steep, twisting road › visitoakland.org
to the Pantoll Ranger Station
and drive the PANORAMIC
» NAPA EXCURSION The Napa Valley has recov-
ered after the 2014 earthquake and is thriving with the
HIGHWAY for ocean, city and leafy downtown dotted with 19th-century Victorians
mountain views. Drive to lined with wine tasting rooms, restaurants, cafés and
galleries. Don’t miss Oxbow Public Market for casual
MUIR WOODS NATIONAL
dining and souvenir shopping.
MONUMENT for a short walk
› visitnapavalley.com
among redwoods. Head back
toward Sausalito and » COASTAL JOURNEY Driving Highway 1 along
Highway 101 and drive north the spectacular coasts of Marin and Sonoma coun-
ties is an unbeatable excursion. Stop at Point Reyes
to the wine country town of SONOMA. Explore its shady plaza,
Station to sample cheese at Cowgirl Creamery, visit
surrounded by shops, wine tasting rooms and historic sites. From the wharf at Bodega Bay for clam chowder, and
Sonoma, it’s a short drive to California’s other major wine region, Napa stroll the bluffs and beaches north to Jenner, where
Valley, and the city of NAPA. the Russian River meets the Pacific and a colony of
harbor seals thrives on the shore.
› visitmarin.org, sonomacounty.com

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 117
INSIDER’S
» TIP
Don’t overlook travel by water
for unforgettable sightseeing in
the San Francisco Bay Area.
Sail the bay by ferry to or from
SAN FRANCISCO’S EMBARCADERO
and FISHERMAN’S WHARF to
OAKLAND, SAUSALITO or TIBURON
and enjoy remarkable city and
bridge views. Along the SAN
MATEO county coast, three-hour
cruises from HALF MOON BAY
are awesome experiences in the
Pacific Ocean, particularly during
the December-May gray whale
migration.

East Bay: Berkeley & Oakland The city is easy to explore on foot, with vast open spaces to savor the Bay Area’s
On the eastern side of the bay lies the col- the waterfront Embarcadero, Fisherman’s varied natural beauty. Among the high-
lege town of Berkeley, with its history of Wharf, Chinatown and Union Square (the lights are the majestic Marin Headlands
political idealism, University of California largest shopping area in the western U.S.) and San Francisco’s Presidio and Crissy
academic prestige and coffeehouse intel- all within a short walk of each other. Col- Field, a popular walking area and restored
lectualism. Berkeley is almost synonymous orful vintage streetcars rumble down the wetlands that also draws kite boarders to
with Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse and the Embarcadero and Market Street, con- the white-capped waters at the Golden Gate.
movement to organic, local and seasonal necting to public transportation that carries Rolling green hillsides dotted with Cal-
food. Berkeley’s larger neighbor, Oakland, visitors to the city’s many diverse neighbor- ifornia golden poppies make spring an
is a culturally diverse city with vibrant hoods and to Golden Gate Park, the large especially ideal time to explore Mount
neighborhoods and lovely Lake Merritt, greenbelt that extends to the Pacific Ocean. Tamalpais and Muir Woods in Marin
whose three-mile path draws joggers The region’s other major cities are San County. Point Reyes National Seashore’s
and walkers. Jose, where revitalization has brought an beautiful coastal terrain contains an abun-
urban vibe, restaurants and museums dance of wildlife, including migrating
City & Town downtown, and Oakland, which attracts shorebirds and ducks, whales that are
Even though it was surpassed in popula- visitors with the renovated Museum of easily seen off the coast in migration
tion by San Jose long ago, San Francisco California, bay-front Jack London Square season (mid January to mid March) and a
remains the region’s cultural hub. The city and a trendy dining scene it shares with its herd of tule elk.
draws more than 18 million travelers each college town neighbor, Berkeley. There also is no lack of wide-open
year to its dense 49 square miles con- spaces in the East Bay, where the regional
taining its famously steep hills, thousands The Great Outdoors park district includes 65 parks covering
of restaurants offering an astonishing One of the world’s largest urban parks—the 113,000 acres in Alameda and Contra Costa
variety of cuisines, different groups of Golden Gate National Recreation Area— counties. In the Santa Cruz mountains,
people, fascinating neighborhoods, parks, stretches over 60 miles of Bay Area amid several vast open space preserves lies
Victorian-era houses and world-class coastline. The area encompasses beaches, California’s oldest state park, Big Basin
PIER 39

museums and cultural activities. historic sites, biking and hiking trails and Redwoods, established in 1902.

118 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Heritage & Culture Museum of Modern Art, the de Young
Early Mexican and Spanish explorers and Museum and California Academy of Sci-
settlers in the Bay Area left their mark, ences in Golden Gate Park. In Oakland,
mostly in place names but also in historic there’s the Museum of California and, in
buildings from that era. San Francisco’s Palo Alto, the Cantor Arts Center at Stan-
Mission Dolores, established in 1776, is the ford. A lively art scene is found
oldest building in San Francisco and the throughout the region and dozens of the-
oldest intact original Mission in Cali- ater, opera, symphony and dance
fornia. The patchwork design of its companies are based here.
beamed ceilings resembles local Native Diverse cultural influences thrive in
American basket weaving. Other old mis- pockets spread throughout the region,
sions are found elsewhere in the Bay Area: including many from Asia: Japantown and
in Sonoma, San Rafael, Santa Clara, San Chinatown in San Francisco, another
Jose and Santa Cruz. Chinatown in Oakland and thriving Viet-
Vestiges of San Francisco’s colorful past, namese and Southeast Asian communities
when the 1849 Gold Rush catapulted it from in South Bay cities. Mexican and other
a hamlet to a large city almost overnight, Latin American influences can be found
th
can still be seen in thousands of 19 - throughout, particularly in San Francisco’s
century Victorians and quaint old quarters Mission district, while Italian immigrants
AQUARIUM OF THE BAY such as Alamo Square and Jackson Square. left their indelible mark in San Francisco’s
at Pier 39, above. The Bay Area is home to world-class North Beach and Sonoma and Napa wine-
museums, including the San Francisco growing areas.

Family Fun
SPECIAL Spend a day at the Santa Cruz Beach Board-
» EVENTS 2016 walk, a century-old amusement park
famous for The Giant Dipper, a 1920s-era
CHINESE NEW YEAR PARADE Feb. 20, San Francisco chineseparade.com roller coaster.
On the San Mateo County coast, Half
CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL April 9-10, 16-17, San Francisco nccbf.org
Moon Bay’s mid-October festival features
BAY TO BREAKERS May 15, San Francisco baytobreakers.com pumpkin carving and pie-eating contests,
CARNAVAL May 28-29, San Francisco carnavalsanfrancisco.org while nearby, Santa Clara’s Great America
theme park thrills visitors with the most
ETHNIC DANCE FESTIVAL throughout June, San Francisco worldartswest.org
water rides in Northern California.
STERN GROVE FESTIVAL Sundays, mid June-mid August, San Francisco sterngrove.org
San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf and
GAY PRIDE WEEKEND June 25-26, San Francisco sfpride.org Pier 39 are lined with shops, restaurants,

KITE FESTIVAL July 30-31, Berkeley highlinekites.com


street performers and even a colony of sea
lions that wow crowds. The pier also offers
ART FESTIVAL Sept. 3-5, Sausalito sausalitoartfestival.org
an antique carousel and the Aquarium of
HARDLY STRICTLY BLUEGRASS Oct. 7-9, San Francisco hardlystrictlybluegrass.com the Bay, with more than 20,000 marine
ART & PUMPKIN FESTIVAL Oct. 15-16, Half Moon Bay miramarevents.com animals. Over in Golden Gate Park, the Cal-
ifornia Academy of Sciences draws
UNION SQUARE TREE LIGHTING Nov. 25, San Francisco macys.com
families with its penguin exhibit, a walk-
FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS Nov. 25, Yountville yountville.com through rain forest and aquarium with a
live coral reef tank.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 119
SAN FRANCISCO
No wonder it’s known as “everyone’s favorite city”

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

IN JUST 49 SQUARE MILES, San Francisco Gate Bridge. The next two years will bring acres of
contains more scenic beauty, neighborhood new landscaped areas, walking and biking trails
COIT TOWER atop Telegraph
Hill, above; live music at Pier 39, diversity, good food and range of arts and cul- and a visitor center above the parkway.
below; the Hyde Street cable ture than any U.S. city of its size. The landmark The Round House, an Art Deco-style circular
car climbs from San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge, cable cars, Alcatraz and building at the southeast foot of the Golden Gate
Aquatic Park with Alcatraz and
Fisherman’s Wharf are synonymous with the Bridge reopened in 2015, giving bridge visitors a
Angel Island in the
City by the Bay, also known for an atmosphere place to stop for food and drinks before browsing
background, opposite.
of tolerance that stretches back to the Gold Rush the adjacent Bridge Pavilion that provides infor-
when one of the largest migrations in human mation and exhibits. In 2016, there’s also much
history brought thousands west. new in San Francisco, including the permanent
San Francisco is one of the great U.S. cities for installation of the 25,000 LED lights on the
food and dining, with renowned chefs, a wide western span of the Bay Bridge that “perform” in
variety of ethnic cuisine and restaurant-mad locals patterns created by light artist Leo Villareal. The
spending more on eating out than residents of any Bay Lights are being re-installed in time for Super
other American city. Culture is abundant, with Bowl 50 in February, which will turn the interna-
world-class museums, theater, opera, symphony tional spotlight on San Francisco, officially the
and ballet, helped by a public commitment that host city. The NFL Experience—an interactive

MARI CHING/SHUTTERSTOCK; PIER 39. OPPOSITE: T PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK


pre-dates the National Endowment for the Arts. theme park—and a Super Bowl Fan Village are
There’s a tech-fueled vitality in many parts of expected to host one million fans downtown.
the city: An influx of start-ups and young tech Elsewhere in the city, the Original Ghirardelli
workers has led to a boom in restaurants, bars Chocolate Manufactory at the Cannery reopened
and nightlife, especially in the vibrant Mission after renovation with displays of more than 150
district and South of Market areas. At popular Off years of chocolate-making history alongside the
The Grid events, groups of mobile food trucks company’s perennially popular ice cream and
serve up gourmet food, including Sundays in the chocolate shop.
Presidio and Friday evenings at Fort Mason. The major cultural development of 2016 is
The Presidio continues its stunning transfor- the reopening of the expanded San Francisco
mation from Army base to a vast national park Museum of Modern Art, scheduled for spring.
filled with historic sites, museums, artwork and The doubling of the museum’s exhibit space
miles of walking and biking trails in forests and makes room for The Doris and Donald Fisher
along the bay. In 2015, the Presidio Parkway tun- Collection, considered one of the world’s finest
nels replaced a highway eyesore and smoothly collections of modern art.
funnels traffic to and from the city and the Golden For trip planning, see sanfrancisco.travel.

120 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
BERKELEY
Bastion of liberal thought, superb
dining and performing arts

BY DAVID ARMSTRONG

WORLD-FAMOUS as a historic center of rants such as the organic, artisan-minded

DINE, free speech and 1960s counterculture, Mission Heirloom eatery.


Berkeley, on the eastern shore of San Fran- One-of-a-kind shopping abounds on
» SHOP, GOLF, cisco Bay, has morphed into a foodie Fourth Street, north of University Avenue
SEE A PLAY destination and unique arts and shopping in West Berkeley; standouts include Miki’s
Berkeley Tourism mecca. But it’s still Berkeley, proudly off- Paper, which features hand-made Japanese
Information beat, quirky and fun to visit, especially now. stationery and wrapping paper.
visitberkeley.com The Downtown Arts District on Addison Gorgeous brown-shingle wooden homes
Street showcases the Berkeley Repertory and public buildings by celebrated architects
Theatre, the Aurora Theatre Company and Bernard Maybeck and Julia Morgan—who
the venerable folk music haven Freight & adapted Arts and Crafts design to form the
SUNSET OVER SAN FRANCISCO BAY Salvage Coffeehouse, which is both a per- Bay Region style in the early 20th century—
and the Berkeley Campanile, above;
formance venue and community-minded enrich the city. Maybeck’s serene 1910 First
Berkeley Kite Festival, below.
folk music learning center. Two major Church of Christ, Scientist, just east of Tele-
venues are set to open downtown this year: graph Avenue and south of the UC Berkeley
The new, 83,000-square-foot Berkeley Art campus, is an architectural hymn to silence.
Museum and Pacific Film Archive On campus, Cal Performances brings

DANIEL PARKS/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; CDRIN/SHUTTERSTOCK


(BAMPFA), at 2155 Center St. and, in later international headliners to Zellerbach Hall.
months, the handsomely renovated UC You can toast the artists and debate the true
Theatre, a 1917 cinema-turned-music per- meaning of art in a plenitude of craft micro-
formance space on University Avenue just breweries that dot the area near campus and
west of Shattuck Avenue. North Berkeley beyond; the Berkeley Brew Trail highlights
along and near Shattuck is the city’s places to sip hand-crafted suds; specifics
Gourmet Ghetto, with its jewel in the are available from the city’s Visitor Informa-
crown, Chez Panisse, founded by the tion Center, 2030 Addison St. Let’s not forget
doyenne of fresh, local, seasonal California cocktails; they’re original and inspired at
cuisine, Alice Waters. The 1966 original Tupper & Reed, located downtown. Got
Peet’s Coffee and Tea shop is right nearby, golf? Certainly. You can tee it up at the 18-
as are excellent food markets, the Cheese hole Tilden Park Golf Course, in the woodsy
Board cheese shop/bakery and fine restau- Berkeley Hills above the bay.

122 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
HEALDSBURG
Sonoma’s sophisticated, relaxed, wine country town

BY MARCY GORDON

DATING FROM 1857, the centerpiece and Street to see scores of colorful, well-pre-

TASTE, BROWSE, defining feature of Healdsburg is its served historic homes, many in use as
» DINE, EXPLORE beloved Spanish style plaza designed by B&Bs. Surrounded by vineyards, and located
Harmon Heald. The one-acre quadrangle, just off Highway 101, Healdsburg is the
Healdsburg Chamber shaded by towering redwoods and date ideal home base from which to explore the
of Commerce and palms, is grand in scale but has an intimate, world-renowned wine appellations of
Visitors Bureau
accessible feel. Possibly the liveliest plaza Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill, Dry Creek
healdsburg.com
in Sonoma, it was recently voted one of Valley and Russian River Valley. Wine, of
“America’s Most Beautiful Town Squares” course, is a main focus of the town with
WILLIAMS SELYEM WINERY, above; and Healdsburg was ranked among the best more than 25 tasting rooms and wineries
enjoying Healdsburg Plaza, below.
small towns to visit in 2014. within walking distance of its center.
The plaza plays host to numerous Dining options are plentiful, from
events including the Antique Fair spon- casual cafés to elite restaurants creating
sored by the Historical Society in May and sublime seasonal fare incorporating the
the popular Beer and Sausage Festival in bounty of local ingredients and show-
September. The highly regarded Healds- casing regional wines. Although most
burg Jazz Festival held in early June takes famous for its wine, Healdsburg also has a
place in various venues and locations lively craft beer scene and is home to the DAVID SPENCER/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; HEALDSBURG CVB

around the town. Throughout the summer locally brewed Racer 5 India Pale Ale.
months, on Tuesday evenings, the plaza Beyond the city center, the Russian River
transforms into an outdoor community and peaceful stands of ancient redwoods are
living room where locals and visitors the focal point for hiking and canoeing, and
gather for a free concert series. the mostly flat back roads that wind through
From the plaza it’s a leisurely stroll to the the vineyard valleys make the area a world-
many wine tasting rooms, artisan bakeries, class bicycling destination.
coffee spots, cheese shops, art galleries, Sophisticated, yet rustic, Healdsburg,
bookshops and boutiques offering clothing, with its agrarian roots, delivers small town
house wares and inspired one-of-a-kind charm and a wine country lifestyle that’s
gifts. Or venture a few blocks off Center both laid-back and luxurious.

124 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SAN JOSE & SILICON VALLEY
High-tech, innovation, museums and more

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

TOP CITIES
San Jose, Santa Clara, Sunnyvale, Cupertino, Los Gatos,

S
Saratoga, Mountain View, Palo Alto, Menlo Park, Los Altos
an Jose and Silicon Valley, known worldwide for technology inno-
vation, have come of age as centers for the arts, culture and
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS attractions. The region will be in the national spotlight in February
San Jose International Airport (SJC),
when Santa Clara’s Levi’s Stadium hosts the NFL’s Super Bowl 50. In Palo

FRANCESCO CARUCCI/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK


4 miles (6 km) north of downtown San Jose
Alto, one of the world’s leading private collections of modern American
San Francisco International Airport (SFO), art, the Anderson Collection, is drawing art lovers to its architecturally
36 miles (58 km) north of downtown San Jose
striking building on the Stanford campus.
TOURISM WEBSITES Downtown San Jose’s vibrant urban scene continues to grow with
sanjose.org museums, galleries and robust dining and nightlife. San Jose Jazz, which
santaclara.org
presents more than 100 live music events annually, is one of many
sanmateocountycvb.com
dynamic cultural groups.
POPULATION The valley has undergone a dramatic change since the mid 20th century
1.8 million
when farms, orchards and ranches lined Santa Clara Valley, and the area
was called “The Valley of Heart’s Delight.” With the technology boom came
the development of acres of office parks and an influx of bright, young
entrepreneurs—and the new name, Silicon Valley.
In the last decade, the vigorous economy led to a revitalization of cities
whose residents are known more for their long workdays than nights on
SAN JOSE the town. Visitors find pedestrian-friendly burgs, such as charming
& SILICON
Saratoga and Los Gatos, with Michelin-starred restaurants and chic shops.
VALLEY
Mountain View’s Castro Street and Palo Alto’s University Avenue are hop-

126 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
ping, and San Jose’s downtown and the significant to Silicon Valley history: the
Santana Row district are alive with HP Garage, the garage where Stanford
nightlife and attractions, including the classmates Bill Hewlett and Dave Packard
MUST
Tech Museum, which pays homage to the founded Hewlett-Packard in 1939. » SEE,
valley’s innovative spirit. The valley also offers theme parks for DO
Palo Alto, home of Stanford Univer- families and outdoor recreation in the
sity, also features a tiny museum Santa Cruz Mountains.
Nestled at the foot of the mountains
are Saratoga and Los Gatos, hamlets with » Stanford Art Stanford University’s campus
includes the Anderson Collection, a private
picture-perfect Victorian homes and
modern American art collection that features
Craftsman bungalows. Vast stretches of major works by Pollock, Still, Rothko and
parks, open space preserves and rows of Diebenkorn, housed in a striking 33,000-square-
vineyards and winery tasting rooms foot building. Next door is the Cantor Arts Center,
cluster in the surrounding mountains, as which includes 24 galleries and one of the largest
collections of Rodin bronzes outside Paris.
well as south of San Jose, along the
› stanford.edu
Hecker Pass Highway and around the city
» History Park Stretching over 14 acres, San
Jose’s History Park conveys the richness of Santa
Clara Valley’s long history. The park features 27
FIVE WOUNDS PORTUGUESE original and re-created buildings connected by
National Church in San Jose, left; running trolleys. Included are the Chinese-
Lick Observatory on Mount American Museum, the Portuguese Historical
Hamilton, opposite. Museum and one of the first banks opened by A.P.
Giannini, founder of the Bank of America, who
was born in San Jose.

DRIVE › historysanjose.org

» TOUR » Planet Snoopy California’s Great America


theme park includes Gold Striker, Northern
Starting in PALO ALTO, take in California’s tallest and fastest roller coaster, with

vibrant University Avenue and PALO ALTO high-speed turns and drops, one falling 103 feet at
a 50-degree angle. In 2015 it expanded its Planet
drive the leafy lanes of the
SAN JOSE Snoopy children’s area to include three rides,
STANFORD CAMPUS, stopping SARATOGA taking kids on Snoopy’s skateboard, around a
to see the mosaics in LOS racetrack and on space buggies.
GATOS
Memorial Church and the › cagreatamerica.com
CASTLE ROCK
MAIN QUAD. Head west on STATE PARK
Sand Hill Road to Highway 280 » Super Bowl 50 Explore the venue of Super
Bowl 50 at Levi’s Stadium, the home of the NFL’s
south to revitalized downtown
San Francisco 49ers. Ninety-minute public tours
SAN JOSE for a visit to the
are conducted daily. Visits to the stadium’s 49ers
striking Tech Museum of Innovation. Take Highway 17 west to LOS
Museum and its 11 galleries that trace the team’s
GATOS, stopping to enjoy the village-like downtown and its shady history and a gourmet lunch are add-on options.
plaza, then head south on Highway 9 to the equally charming hamlet › levisstadium.com
of SARATOGA, nestled at the foot of the Santa Cruz Mountains.
Continue on Highway 9 up into the mountains to Skyline Boulevard » Computer History Museum Technology
(Highway 35), the crest of the range. Here you’ll find uncrowded giants call Silicon Valley home and this museum
explores their history and impact on society.
wineries, pristine forests and many open space preserves and parks,
Large-scale exhibits describe the creation of self-
including CASTLE ROCK STATE PARK, the most spectacular. Follow
driving cars, and are filled with the world’s largest
Skyline Boulevard south and rejoin Highway 17 east, which leads back collection of computing hardware, software,
to San Jose and the heart of Silicon Valley. ephemera and photographs.
› computerhistory.org

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 127
DANIEL AUSTIN HOHERD/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK; NAOTAKE MURAYAMA/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR
University. In 2014, the $1.2 billion Levi’s
Stadium opened, the home of the San
Francisco 49ers NFL team and the venue
for Super Bowl 50 on Feb. 7.

Heritage and Culture


San Jose offers a big-city cultural scene
with first-rate museums that include the
Tech Museum, where visitors discover
what made Silicon Valley successful, the
Children’s Discovery Museum, the San
of Gilroy, which is home to an annual Jose Museum of Art and the West Coast’s
INSIDER’S Garlic Festival that draws thousands. largest collection of ancient Egyptian arti-
» TIP With its Mediterranean climate of facts at the Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum
warm summers and mild winters, and and Planetarium. About 10 percent of San
Visitors to the Stanford campus location 50 miles south of San Fran- Jose’s population is Vietnamese, and this
can take advantage of several free cisco and 30 miles inland from the ethnic group has a strong presence partic-
tours, including a new Pacific Ocean, it’s no wonder that Sil- ularly in restaurants along Story Road and
HUMANITIES AND ART TOUR, icon Valley developed as a world center at the Museum of the Boat People in
which debuted in 2015. for innovation, drawing some of the charming History Park, which also fea-
Undergraduates are the guides, best and brightest engineers in the tures buildings representing Portuguese,
leading participants on tours of world to a quiet valley where once only Chinese, Italian and other ethnic commu-
BING CONCERT HALL, the fruit trees blossomed. nities that were instrumental in the city’s
ANDERSON COLLECTION, the long history.
CANTOR ARTS CENTER, the RODIN City and Town
SCULPTURE GARDEN and the new
San Jose, the county seat of Santa Clara The Great Outdoors
McMURTRY BUILDING that houses
County, was founded in 1777 and today is Wherever you are in Silicon Valley, beau-
the Department of Art and Art
the largest city in Northern California and tiful open space is not far away. In
History. There’s also a SCIENCE
th
10 largest in the nation. Downtown has downtown San Jose, Guadalupe River Park
AND ENGINEERING QUAD TOUR
undergone significant revitalization over is a convenient greenbelt. Nearby Alum
that provides a look at two of the
the last decade, with historic buildings Rock Park offers 720 acres filled with tree-
University’s highly regarded
departments, where many of such as the California Theatre on the lined walking paths. Miles of roads in the
Silicon Valley’s top executives same block where dozens of software Santa Cruz Mountains lead to a diverse
once walked the halls as companies have relocated. The adjacent collection of county and state parks and
undergraduates. city of Santa Clara features historic Mis- open space preserves in redwood forests
visit.stanford.edu sion Santa Clara de Asis and its lovely ideal for camping, hiking, mountain
grounds on the campus of Santa Clara biking or a simple picnic.

128 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Family Fun
For fascinating local lore, head to the Win-
SPECIAL
chester Mystery House, the 160-room
» EVENTS 2016
Victorian estate built by Sara Winchester,
the heiress of Winchester Rifles. The huge NFL SUPER BOWL 50 Feb. 7, Santa Clara sfbaysuperbowl.com
house is creepy but beautiful at the same
SANTA CLARA WINERIES SPRING PASSPORT WEEKEND
time, with its weird “Stairs to the Ceiling” March 19-20, Santa Clara County santaclarawines.com
that lead to nowhere, séance chambers
DOWNTOWN FARMERS’ MARKET Fridays, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., May-Nov., San Jose pcfma.com
and fine woodwork.
California’s Great America theme park MOUNTAIN WINERY CONCERT SERIES July-Oct., Saratoga mountainwinery.com
offers the most thrill rides in Northern
CONNOISSEUR’S MARKETPLACE July 16-17, Menlo Park menloparkchamber.com
California and includes the massive Great
Barrier Reef wave pool. Additional fun is GILROY GARLIC FESTIVAL July 29-31, Gilroy gilroygarlicfestival.com

found at 23-acre Raging Waters in San SANTA CLARA COUNTY FAIR Aug. 4-7, San Jose thefair.org
Jose, which bills itself as the region’s
SAN JOSE JAZZ SUMMER FEST Aug. 12-14, San Jose summerfest.sanjosejazz.org
largest water park. San Jose’s Happy
Hollow Park and Zoo and Los Gatos’ ART AND WINE FESTIVAL Sept. 10-11, Mountain View miramarevents.com
Vasona Lake County Park, a lovely oasis SANTA CLARA ART AND WINE FESTIVAL Sept. 17-18, Santa Clara santaclaraca.gov
with a train and 1915 carousel, are two
other parks that kids love.

SANTA CLARA COUNTY FAIR, opposite left;


San Jose Museum of Art, opposite top;
annual Silicon Valley Duck Race in Vasona
Lake Park, Los Gatos, below; climbing at
Castle Rock State Park, right.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 129
SANTA CLARA
Levi’s Stadium adds to city’s theme park fun, history and high-tech

BY LAURA DEL ROSSO

LEVI’S STADIUM, home of the SANTA CLARA, just an hour south of San water park, California’s Great America,
San Francisco 49ers, above; dining Francisco in the heart of tech capital Silicon which offers more than 100 acres of rides
in Levi’s stadium, below.
Valley, has stepped into the national spot- and shows. The park, open late March
light as home to Levi’s Stadium, host of the through October, expanded with the Planet
National Football League’s Super Bowl 50. Snoopy play area last year. Rides include an
Not only is the 69,900-seat stadium interactive ride aboard Snoopy’s giant
home to the San Francisco 49ers, but it also skateboard, a Peanuts 500 race-car ride and
hosts college football, domestic and inter- Snoopy’s Space Buggies, which lifts astro-
national soccer, concerts and other special nauts high in the air for a lunar landing. The
events. Its 20,000-square-foot 49ers vast Boomerang Bay water park features
Museum celebrates the team’s history in 11 water slides, rivers for tubing and pools.
galleries and interactive exhibit spaces Elsewhere in the city, sports fans will
devoted to sports history, Super Bowl find plenty to cheer. The city hosts major
Championships and the Lombardi Tro- swim meets at the George F. Haines Inter-
phies. The museum and the stadium are national Swim Center, and Santa Clara
open for tours and visits year-round. University holds NCAA Division 1 athletic
competitions year-round.
Theme Park Fun, Sports, A visit to Santa Clara wouldn’t be com-
Shopping & Festivals plete without a look into the innovative high
Families find entertainment and thrills at tech giants of Silicon Valley. At the Intel
California’s only combination theme and Museum at corporate headquarters, visitors

130 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
see how computer chips are made in an
automated chip factory and how the valley’s
engineers shaped and changed society.
Some of Silicon Valley’s best shopping
is found at Santa Clara’s Westfield Valley
Fair mall, which is across the street from
the high-end Santana Row shopping dis-
trict. Santa Clara also draws visitors to its
Triton Museum of Art with an emphasis on
Bay Area artists and popular events,
GOLD STRIKER roller coaster at
including an annual Art and Wine Festival is the oldest college in California. The cur-
SANTA CLARA CVB; SANTA CLARA CVB; MARIUSZ S. JURGIELEWICZ/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: SANTA CLARA CVB.

California’s Great America, top left;


in September, Pacific International Quilt rent Mission Church was built in 1925 after
Santa Clara Convention Center, above;
Festival in October, and the spine-tingling a fire destroyed the previous 19th-century Mission Santa Clara de Asís, below.
Halloween Haunt in October. building. Statues, paintings, liturgical
objects, one bell and the flavor of the
Mission Santa Clara de Asis & Spanish-style architecture remain. A new
Santa Clara University pedestrian-only walkway leads to the
Santa Clara has a long history that’s closely church, flanked by historic gardens.
tied with that of California. The fertile Also on the Santa Clara University
valley that became known as Santa Clara campus is the de Saisset Art Museum,
Valley and more recently, Silicon Valley, whose most significant feature is a Cali-
was inhabited by the Ohlone when Spain fornia history collection. Artifacts that
began colonizing California. Franciscan trace Santa Clara history include a corner-
missionaries established 21 missions that stone uncovered in an archaeological
stretched from San Diego to Sonoma, excavation and 18th-century woodwork and
choosing a spot in the valley in 1777 for art. The museum also houses European art
their eighth mission. They named it Mis- from the Renaissance to the 19th century,
sion Santa Clara de Asis after Saint Clare. including prints by Durer and Piranesi;
Visitors are welcome to visit the Mis- modern works by Chagall, Matisse and
sion Church and adjacent Mission Gardens Picasso; and prints by San Francisco Bay
on the beautiful campus of Santa Clara Area artists Arneson, Diebenkorn, Neri,
University. Founded in 1851, the university Thiebaud and others.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 131
MONTEREY BAY & BIG SUR
The real “laid-back” California

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

TOP CITIES
Santa Cruz, Monterey, Carmel, Pacific Grove, Salinas

S
tretching south of one of the largest urban areas of the state—the
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY San Francisco Bay Area—the coastal region from Santa Cruz

SONGQUAN DENG/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LUCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER/SHUTTERSTOCK; SEEMONTEREY.COM


San Francisco International Airport (SFO), through Big Sur is the ideal place to slow down and adopt a Cali-
62 miles (100 km) from Santa Cruz; fornia-style appreciation of the great outdoors and a laid-back lifestyle.
101 miles (163 km) from Monterey
With views that rival the rest of the state all packed into one area, this is
TOURISM WEBSITES where many Californians vacation, ditch workday stress and relax within
santacruzca.org earshot of the crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean.
seemonterey.com The two biggest population centers of the region are Santa Cruz and
carmelcalifornia.com
the Monterey Peninsula. In historic Monterey, small-town Pacific Grove
pacificgrove.org
www.ci.salinas.ca.us and fashionable artist retreat Carmel-by-the-Sea, there are beautiful
beaches, ample performing and fine arts venues, outdoor pursuits, stylish
POPULATION shops, epicurean delights and an inland region known for wine and agri-
700,000
culture. Much of the same can be said of funky Santa Cruz, but away from
the redwoods, the university town resembles a beachside playground,
with its historic boardwalk and many surf spots.
The grand Big Sur coastline inspired artist Francis McComas to claim
that the area was the “greatest meeting of land and sea,” and the wild coast
perched on the edge of the continent has lured artists and fans of the great
outdoors to enjoy its remoteness as well as its rich restaurant choices—
MONTEREY
from Nepenthe to the Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant. On the other side of
BAY &
BIG SUR the Santa Lucia Range lie the otherworldly spires and crags of Pinnacles
National Park, an extinct volcano on a long voyage north on the edge of

134 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
MUST
» SEE,
the San Andreas Fault. Both regions are the stars, fresh regional cuisine, world-
havens for hikers, bikers, climbers, famous wines, getting active outdoors DO
campers and birdwatchers. or a leisurely beachcombing stroll—all
Wine lovers won’t have much can be found here, and nobody’s
chance to miss Napa and Sonoma, with rushing you.
a wealth of quality vineyards in this » Wild Coast Cruise Highway 1 along
the majestic Big Sur coast, where the sky
region. From Carmel Valley to the City & Town
touches the sea.
Monterey River Road, there are more Downtown Santa Cruz is between the
› bigsurcalifornia.org
than enough award-winning wines to city’s vibrant beach attractions and the
go around. mountains, where redwood groves » California Condors Get a close-up view of
soaring California condors from the High Peaks
With such rich and varied geography, embrace the University of California at
trail of Pinnacles National Park.
it’s a blessing that the wonders of Mon- Santa Cruz. Monterey’s Fisherman’s
› nps.gov/pinn
terey Bay and Big Sur are laid wide open Wharf is just steps from the city’s his-
for residents and visitors to appreciate toric buildings that date from the 18th » Mission Style Set among flowering gardens,
Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo is one of
them. Whether your preference is a and 19th centuries—before California was
the most beautiful of California’s missions.
charming urban escape, camping under part of the United States. Made famous
› carmelmission.org
» Dead Central Get a colorful look at exhibits
from the Grateful Dead Archive, on display at the
University of California Santa Cruz McHenry
Library.
› library.ucsc.edu/grateful-dead-archive/about
» Historic Fun Ride two National Historic
Landmarks, the Giant Dipper and the Looff
Carousel, at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk.
› beachboardwalk.com

INSIDER’S
» TIP
The best views of some
spectacular surf moves are from
the cliffs overlooking Steamer
Lane, near THE SANTA CRUZ
SEASCAPE in Big Sur, SURFING MUSEUM. Grab a spot
opposite; Walton
by the railing to watch top-notch
Lighthouse, Santa Cruz,
surfers get some sweet rides,
above; Carmel Mission,
right. and then head on in to the
museum to see the best in Santa
Cruz surfing history.
santacruzsurfingmuseum.org

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 135
MONTEREY CANNING COMPANY
on Cannery Row, right; sea nettle jellyfish at
Monterey Bay Aquarium, below.

by John Steinbeck’s eponymous novel, Can-


nery Row has morphed from a fishing
center to a bustling street with shops
and ocean-view restaurants. Steinbeck’s
hometown, Salinas, is a working-class agri-
cultural city, known as the “Salad Bowl of
the World.” Carmel, a freethinker’s retreat
born as an artist village, is home to stylish
shops, exquisite dining and top-notch art.

The Great Outdoors


While well-known urban areas dot this
DRIVE region, there’s more than enough wide-
» TOUR open space for fans of the outdoors. Take
a whale watching boat tour in Monterey

Trace a beautiful path along the


Bay, where you can spot migrating gray,
California coast by starting on humpback and blue whales. Seventeen-
HIGHWAY 1 and drive south, from Mile Drive in Pebble Beach winds through
Santa Cruz through the forest and along the Pacific coastline as it TASFOTONL/SHUTTERSTOCK; KEN WOLTER/SHUTTERSTOCK

MONTEREY PENINSULA. Once you skirts exclusive golf courses and resorts.
pass CARMEL, you enter the 90-mile The eerie-looking spires and monoliths
stretch of California coastline of Pinnacles National Park lure climbers
between Carmel and SAN SIMEON as well as hikers interested in the explo-
called BIG SUR, shoehorned sion of colorful spring wildflowers and
between the ocean and the Santa soaring California condors.
Lucia Mountains. The road twists In Big Sur, where rocky cliffs drop into
and turns along the wild coast, so
the Pacific Ocean and cypress trees twist
take your time and be sure to stop
in the wind, nature lovers can walk along
and enjoy the view along the way.
the beach or hike deep into redwood
forests, where waterfalls spring to life.

136 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Heritage & Culture
SPECIAL The inland region is dominated by agricul-
» EVENTS 2016 ture—from the Salinas salad bowl to
Carmel Valley wines—while the coast is
AT&T PEBBLE BEACH NATIONAL PRO-AM Feb. 8-14, Pebble Beach attpbgolf.com home to fishermen, artists, surfers and a
booming tourism industry. Don’t think the
STEINBECK’S BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION Feb. 27, Salinas steinbeck.org
model of the easy-going Californian only
JAZZ BASH BY THE BAY March 4-6, Monterey jazzbashmonterey.com exists on Orange County beaches. Whether
it’s a chef from Carmel, an artist from Santa
PEBBLE BEACH FOOD & WINE March 31-April 3, Pebble Beach pbfw.com
Cruz or a farmer from Soledad—all take
STEINBECK FESTIVAL May 6-8, Salinas steinbeck.org time to enjoy Monterey Bay and Big Sur.
CARMEL ART FESTIVAL May 13-15, Carmel carmelartfestival.org
Family Fun
CARMEL BACH FESTIVAL July 16-30, Carmel bachfestival.org
No matter your age, you can’t go wrong at
GILROY GARLIC FESTIVAL July 29-31, Gilroy gilroygarlicfestival.com the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, with rides
and entertainment for everyone. The Mon-
FEAST OF LANTERNS July 27-31, Pacific Grove feast-of-lanterns.org
terey Peninsula is a wonderland for
PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE Aug. 21, Pebble Beach pebblebeachconcours.net
families, with historic sites, accessible
CAPITOLA BEGONIA FESTIVAL Sept. 2-5, Capitola begoniafestival.com beaches, Dennis the Menace Park, the Mon-
terey Bay Aquarium and a wealth of outdoor
MONTEREY JAZZ FESTIVAL Sept. 16-18, Monterey montereyjazzfestival.org
activities. South through Big Sur, camping
BUTTERFLY PARADE Oct. 1, Pacific Grove seemonterey.com/regions/pacific-grove options abound along the wild coast, and

FIRST NIGHT MONTEREY Dec. 31, Monterey firstnightmonterey.org the variety of hiking paths can lead you to a

SEEMONTEREY.COM. OPPOSITE: RICK K. WONG/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; ERIC CHAN/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR


pink-sand beach or a seaside waterfall.
Inland, get a look at California’s pre-state-
hood past and follow the California
Missions Trail along Highway 101.

Monarch butterfly, above;


kids at Monterey tide pools, right.

138 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
GILROY
Great outdoors attractions for all ages

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

WITH MILES OF TRAILS, amusement The region’s wineries offer tastings and
parks full of gardens and agricultural mas- tours for the grape-obsessed, and local
» GARLIC, GOLF,
WINE, FUN!
tery, there is enough in Gilroy to please restaurants often include Gilroy’s beloved
everyone in the family. This Santa Clara garlic. The dedicated garlic heads come for

Gilroy Tourism County city is well known as the Garlic the Gilroy Garlic Festival at the end of July—
Information Capital of the World, but the annual fes- a three-day celebration of food and drink,
gilroywelcomecenter.org tival that celebrates the pungent plant is music, arts and family entertainment.
only one of Gilroy’s many attractions. Shoppers enjoy searching for special buys
Start with a visit to 4,595-acre Coyote at the 145 designer and name-brand stores
Lake/Harvey Bear Ranch park. It’s possible to at Gilroy Premium Outlets.
FAMILY DAY at Gilroy Gardens, top;
spend more than a day here, with local Walk back in time near downtown
garlic harvesting contestant at the
Gilroy Garlic Festival, below. wildlife exhibits, a 635-acre lake for fishing Gilroy, where more than 75 historic build-
and boating, camping and boat-launch facil- ings allow history buffs to meander at their
ities, and miles of hiking, bicycle and horse own pace to learn more about the region
trails winding through oak canyons. The once called “Pleasant Valley” and the
Gilroy Gardens family theme park lures fam- town’s founder, John Cameron Gilroy.
ilies with more than 40 fun rides, exhibits Favorite stops include the City Museum (in
and majestic gardens (including the leg- a building that housed the town’s first
endary “circus trees”). Once just a fruit public library) and Old City Hall. A dif-
stand, Casa de Fruta is another popular des- ferent kind of history haunts The Milias
tination for travelers, from its Casa de Choo Restaurant, where friendly ghosts tap
Choo miniature locomotive to antique farm patrons on the shoulder and move kitchen
machinery and freshly baked treats. items around.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 139
MONTEREY COUNTY
Early California history and modern wine

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

WITH ITS GARDENS and old adobe Monterey appellation, so wine fans will
SIGHTSEE, buildings from California’s Spanish and enjoy visiting vineyards, wine bars, tasting
» WINE & DINE, Mexican eras, it’s quickly evident that Mon- rooms, and shopping for wine with labels
terey has an important place in state denoting the region’s best new vintages from
PLAY GOLF!
history. That doesn’t mean Monterey Arroyo Seco, Carmel Valley, Chalone, Hames
Monterey County County’s best days are in the past. The Valley, San Antonio Valley, San Bernabe, San
Convention & Visitors region regularly adds to its tried-and-true Lucas and Santa Lucia Highlands.
Bureau highlights, pleasing both locals and visitors. Among Pebble Beach’s famed golf
seemonterey.com One of the best ways to see Monterey courses with spectacular views, Pebble
through a resident’s eyes, complete with his- Beach Golf Links is on every golfer’s dream
torical and cultural elements (but based on list. But that’s not the only place in Mon-
THE MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM,
above; winery on Highway G16, Carmel your preferences), is a private tour with terey County where you can play next to
Tours by Locals. Learn more about Old Mon- the pros. Pebble Beach is also home to RANDY WILDER/SEEMONEREY.COM; RANDY ANDY/SHUTTERSTOCK
Valley, below.
terey, John Steinbeck’s Cannery Row, the Poppy Hills and Spyglass Hill, two courses
city’s most famous attractions, or combine that have co-hosted the AT&T National
two in one day with a Monterey and Carmel Pro-Am. The nearby Del Monte Golf Course
tour. Be sure to ask your guide for her favorite is the site of the Callaway Golf Pebble
local restaurant or bar to add to your list. Beach Invitational and First Tee Open. At
Wine grapes were first introduced to the Poppy Hills, golfers can also choose to
region by the Franciscan Friars near the advance directly to Porter’s in the Forest
Soledad Mission in southern Monterey restaurant—a far cry from the traditional
County. Today, Monterey County encom- clubhouse café with its farm-to-table
passes eight smaller American Viticultural menu, outdoor dining and panoramic view
Areas (AVAs) in addition to the larger of the Del Monte Forest.

140 201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
CENTRAL COAST
Endless and uncrowded beaches

BY JILL K. ROBINSON
TOP CITIES
Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, Paso Robles, Morro Bay,
Cambria, Ventura, Lompoc, Solvang, Pismo Beach

L
ining the coast south of Big Sur to Santa Barbara is a string of small
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY beach towns, assembled just above the high-tide line of the Pacific
Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), Ocean, as if they’re merely part of the ocean’s treasure. Southern
98 miles (158 km) from Santa Barbara;
California may get prime beach town attention, but it’s California’s Central
192 miles (309 km) from San Luis Obispo
Coast region that has it all, except for the crowds vying for each sandy
TOURISM WEBSITES square foot. If you’re looking for a place to learn to chill-out like a local,
sanluisobispocounty.com get some fun and sun, escape the hustle and bustle, and sample some of
santabarbaraca.com
the best food and wine in California, pack your bags for the Central Coast.
travelpaso.com
morrobay.org The biggest population center is the Santa Barbara area, with its white
cambriachamber.org Spanish-style buildings and red-tiled roofs. In Santa Barbara, there are
visitventuraca.com RON BERG. OPPOSITE: SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY CVB; ONX WINES
vast beaches, plenty of fine arts venues, bright boutiques, outdoor adven-
lompoc.com
tures, culinary tastes and an inland region (the Santa Ynez Valley, featured
solvangusa.com
classiccalifornia.com in the movie Sideways) known for wine and Santa Maria barbecue.
Visitors can tour hilltop Hearst Castle, see hulking elephant seals at
POPULATION Piedras Blancas, relax in the sleepy beach towns of Cayucos and Morro
1,542,000
Bay, or find some action in college-town San Luis Obispo. Fresh seafood
often tastes best with a view of the ocean, and the old-fashioned piers of
Avila Beach and Pismo Beach are ideal spots to take that meal break. Ven-
tura’s Mission San Buenaventura is the last of the California missions
CENTRAL founded by Junipero Serra. The oceanside town is also a jumping-off point
COAST for adventures in Channel Islands National Park, called “California’s Galá-
pagos,” with tide pools, kelp forests and unique flora and fauna species.

142 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Even though the Central Coast region’s perches on pine-forested hills above the
main highlight is indeed, its coast, the ocean, and has galleries and antique
varied geography and moderate climate shops. Laid-back Cayucos is an old-school MUST
ensure that there are plenty of treats for beach retreat with a surf break and fishing » SEE,
visitors to find. Whether your preference pier near the main drag. Morro Bay’s land- DO
is digging for clams, surfing the perfect mark, an ancient volcanic peak emerging
wave, strolling Mediterranean-style village from the ocean floor, stands at the
streets, sampling fresh regional cuisine entrance to a beautiful estuary.
and world-famous wines, or lazing on the Tucked between the ocean and the Santa
beach, it’s all right here on the Central Ynez Mountains, Santa Barbara is often » Pink Moment Look to the east for the set-
ting sun’s reflection on the bluffs of the Topatopa
Coast—and there’s enough for everyone. called the “American Riviera” because of its
Mountains in Ojai for a brilliant pink sunset.
Mediterranean climate and red-tiled build-
› ojaicity.org
City & Town ings. Head inland to artist enclave Ojai to
South of Big Sur, the sweep of coastline is unwind and take in the “pink moment” » Spanish History Get a glimpse into Santa
Barbara’s origins with a visit to Mission Santa Bar-
dotted with small beach towns. Cambria sunsets—the color of cotton candy.
bara, known as “Queen of the Missions.”
› santabarbaramission.org
» Castle on a Hill Visit Hearst Castle, the
over-the-top estate that William Randolph Hearst
called “the ranch.”
› hearstcastle.org
» Volcanic Sister Walk out to the base of
Morro Rock, one of a series of volcanic plugs
known as the Nine Sisters of San Luis Obispo
County, in Morro Bay.
› morrobay.org
» American Riviera Step off Stearns Wharf in
Santa Barbara and stroll along the miles of
beaches studded with palm trees.
› santabarbaraca.com

A ROMANTIC MOMENT on the beach at


Santa Barbara, opposite; Pismo Beach
seascape, above; wine tasting among the
vines in Paso Robles, right.

INSIDER’S
» TIP
THE FASTEST GROWING WINE
REGION in California isn’t Napa
or Sonoma. Paso Robles
recently added 11 sub-AVAs
(American Viticultural Areas)
to distinguish the differences
in terroir in its entire growing
region. Try some at Paso
Robles’ best wineries and
tasting rooms. pasowine.com

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 143
SURFER at Morro Bay, left; Jeep
ride at Adelaide, San Luis Obispo
County, above; Hunter Ranch
Golf Course, opposite left; Santa
Barbara Mission, opposite top
right; downtown Solvang.
opposite bottom right.

The Great Outdoors


SPECIAL
» EVENTS 2016 Even though Santa Barbara and San Luis
Obispo are larger than the rest of the beach
towns, there’s enough space throughout
SANTA BARBARA INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Feb. 3-13, Santa Barbara sbiff.org the Central Coast region to find ample
breathing room. Hike to the top of Bishop
WINTER WINE CLASSIC Feb. 20, Santa Barbara californiawinefestival.com
Peak, the tallest of the Nine Sisters, a chain
SAN LUIS OBISPO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL March 15-20, San Luis Obispo slofilmfest.org of volcanic peaks. Take advantage of some
sweet surf spots and catch the perfect
TASTE OF SOLVANG March 16-20, Solvang solvangusa.com
wave. Head out from Santa Barbara on a
PASO ROBLES WINE FESTIVAL May 19-22, Paso Robles pasowine.com/events/winefestival.php whale watching tour to see some of the
largest mammals in the Pacific Ocean.
CALIFORNIA STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL May 21-22, Oxnard strawberry-fest.org
On the Carrizo Plain, considered the
I MADONNARI May 28-30, Santa Barbara imadonnarifestival.com largest single native grassland in the state,
it’s possible to see surface fractures of the
LOS OLIVOS JAZZ & OLIVE FESTIVAL June 4, Los Olivos jazzandolivefestival.org San Andreas Fault. The Los Padres
National Forest stretches across the scenic
SUMMER SOLSTICE CELEBRATION June 24-26, Santa Barbara solsticeparade.com
Coast and Transverse ranges, and offers a
SAN BENITO COUNTY SADDLE HORSE SHOW & RODEO June 24-26, Hollister wealth of opportunities for fishing,
sanbenitocountyrodeo.com
hiking, camping and bicycling. Kayak

GOLETA LEMON FESTIVAL Sept. 24-25, Goleta lemonfestival.com among tide pools and kelp forests where
sea otters live in Morro Bay, or just amble
EPICURE.SB Oct. 1-31, Santa Barbara santabarbaraca.com along miles of scenic beaches and dig your
toes in the sand.

144 201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
Heritage & Culture
Many place names on the Central Coast
DRIVE
remain from Native American tribes, as well » TOUR
as Spanish and Mexican settlers. The Cali-
fornia missions and other well-preserved
Get more than a glimpse of
buildings still remain from pre-statehood Cal- the Central Coast by driving
ifornia. The Central Coast’s inland region has south of Big Sur on
a wealth of land for agriculture—from wine to Highway 1 past the small
olives—but farmers here are just as comfort- beach towns of CAMBRIA,
able taking a quick trip to the wide, sandy MORRO BAY and PISMO
beaches during breaks from the harvest. Even BEACH. Be sure to stop
though Santa Barbara is the big city in the regularly to sample local
area, it has a relaxing vibe that would suffo- delicacies, whether caught
cate in a second in downtown Los Angeles. from oceanside piers or
made by hand in beach-
town bakeries. The highway
Family Fun
cuts inland for a short jog
The Central Coast is rich with adventure for fam-
after San Luis Obispo, but
ilies, including plenty of beaches and outdoor
pops back to the beach
space, historic sites and water activities. View
before approaching the
underwater life on a semi-submersible tour in
Santa Ynez Mountains and
Morro Bay. Discover how the ocean has shaped the
posh SANTA BARBARA.
history of the Central Coast at the Santa Barbara
Maritime Museum. Go camping in the Channel
Islands or Los Padres National Forest. Even
picking your own berries at a local farm is far
more fun when you can smell the ocean air.
TRAVELPASO.COM. OPPOSITE: J. MCPHAIL/SHUTTERSTOCK; TRAVELPASO.COM

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 145
VENTURA
Beach haven and North America’s Galápagos

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

THE ORIGINAL NAME of this California table overlooking the ocean to enjoy a meal

BIKE, PADDLE, city, San Buenaventura, labels it as a city of of fresh, local seafood and wine. The
» SWIM, STROLL good fortune. And Ventura, with its beau- harbor arcade, carousel and ice cream shop

HAYDEN BERGER; KAMILO BUSTAMANTE. OPPOSITE: KAMILO BUSTAMANTE; KAMILO BUSTAMANTE; CONNOR DETKO
tiful beach setting framed by mountains will easily figure into a child’s dream list.
Ventura Visitors & and the Channel Islands, does indeed
Convention Bureau make visitors feel as if they’ve stumbled Channel Islands Adventures
visitventuraca.com upon a bit of good fortune in finding this Adventures abound at the Ventura Harbor
scenic spot along California’s central coast. Village—from kayak and stand-up paddle-
Start with your toes in the surf, because board rentals in the harbor to whale watching
Ventura’s miles of beaches stretching from trips to boat trips to visit the Channel Islands
Surfer’s Point to Ventura Harbor are one of National Park and Marine Sanctuary. Also
the city’s star attractions. Take a long walk, known as North America’s Galápagos, this
lounge in the sun or grab a board and enjoy string of five islands and its surrounding
the water yourself. The south-facing water- waters are home to an abundance of wildlife,
front and breaks along the beaches are including whales, dolphins, foxes and even
essential qualities that lure surfers from bald eagles. Hike along miles of trails to enjoy
far and wide, so you owe it to yourself to the spectacular views of the islands’ rugged
either try it out or settle down to watch a beauty, or take advantage of the various
few surf sessions. water-based activities and snorkel, dive, surf
Another reminder of how much the or kayak in island sea caves.
Pacific Ocean figures into the daily life of The Channel Islands National Park is
Ventura can be found at Ventura Harbor also known as an important breeding and
Village. Wander through the boutiques for resting area for a variety of seabirds. Back
that perfect souvenir, or score an outdoor on the mainland, birders have more to

146 201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
VENTURA AT DUSK, opposite top;
surfer at Ventura Pier, opposite bottom;
Santa Cruz Island hiking, right;
Mission San Buenaventura, center right;
Ventura harbor, below.

choose from for viewing feathered friends.


With a varied elevation from sea level to
8,831 feet at the summit of Mount Pinos,
the area is rich with bird life. Up to 457 bird
species have been recorded in the county,
which includes globally important bird
areas such as Mugu Lagoon and the Los
Padres National Forest.

What’s Cooking Downtown


Early California history has a special place foodie scene, the downtown area is an
in Ventura’s historic downtown cultural ideal base for visitors. Tour along, using
district, which began as Father Junipero the free trolley that runs between down-
Serra’s final mission settlement. Meander town and Ventura Harbor Village, stopping
through downtown to see Mission San at major attractions and most major hotels.
Buenaventura and the historic homes, Wine lovers can easily duck into a
museums, boutiques, antique shops and downtown wine bar to taste the best of Cal-
restaurants that dot the palm tree-lined ifornia’s Central Coast, which is recognized
streets. With a wealth of family-owned as one of the world’s leading wine growing
stores, cultural arts and thriving music and regions. If you want to get closer to the

winemaking process, stop by the Ventura


Visitors Center to learn about the Ventura
County Wine Trail, which has a handful of
wineries that you can visit on your own or
on an organized tour, like the Sip and Savor
Wine Tour, which features some of Ven-
tura’s wine tasting rooms.
Ventura’s thriving music scene counts
more than 35 venues offering live music,
along with dozens of special events and
festivals annually. On nearly any day of the
year, you can check out local bands, solo
artists and musicians who play just about
every genre of music—and you never know
who will be sitting in with the band.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 147
PISMO BEACH
Classic California beach town

BY JILL K. ROBINSON

PICTURE YOUR IDEA of a classic Cali- While famous Pismo Clam (one of the

DINE, BEACH fornia beach town, and Pismo Beach may largest types of clam found along the Cali-
» COMB, PLAY, look exactly like what’s in your mind. A fornia Coast) has become scarce, folks here
sandy strand, a wooden pier and surfers still love to go clamming on Pismo’s
EXPLORE! out past the break—waiting for the perfect beaches. Offshore, you can spy sea otters,
Pismo Beach wave. It sits on California’s Central Coast, migrating whales, seals and tide pool
Conference & midway between San Francisco and Los inhabitants without having to get too wet.
Visitors Bureau Angeles, encouraging territorial Northern Following their annual migration, thou-
classiccalifornia.com and Southern California residents to claim sands of monarch butterflies drip from the
it equally. limbs of eucalyptus and Monterey pine
Start with a walk on the 1,370-foot-long trees from late October through February.
SURFERS AT PISMO BEACH, above;
Pismo Beach Pier, which allows a peek at
surrey ride on the promenade, below.
the ocean and the beach below as easily as Pismo’s Great Outdoors
it provides an optimal vantage point to With six state beaches, two nature preserves
look back at land and view the homes, and three state parks within a 30-minute
hotels, restaurants and shops in town. drive of town, Pismo Beach is an outdoors
From there, plan your itinerary. fan’s dream. Discover these reserves on foot
or by bike, while your best options for water-
Wine Country and Wildlife borne adventure are kayak, surfboard, and
Pismo Beach lets visitors divide their time stand-up paddle board. Even at a slow pace,
between the waves of the Pacific Ocean and one of the ideal ways to commune with
the winemaking regions of Edna Valley, Pismo’s coastal environment is to snag a
Arroyo Grande and Avila Valley, located sandy spot on the beach for a sunset picnic.
only 30 minutes outside of town. And even Sports enthusiasts can find plenty to do
if you’re strolling through downtown around Pismo, whether their favorite pas-
Pismo Beach, many restaurants include a time is golf, fishing, surfing, kayaking,
PISMO BEACH CVB

few local wines on their extensive wine kiteboarding, or horseback riding. And
lists, to be paired with fresh wine-country- once all the activity is over, the beach is
inspired cuisine. still there, beautiful as ever.

148 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
NORTH COAST
The “Land of the Giants” is a lush region
of redwood forests, fishing harbors
and Victorian villages

TOP CITIES
BY JOHN FLINN
Mendocino, Eureka, Crescent City, Fort Bragg,
Garberville, Arcata, Ukiah, Cloverdale, Ferndale

GATEWAY

U
The Arcata-Eureka Airport (EKA), 16 miles (26 km) from ntil you’ve seen one up close, it’s hard to grasp just how
downtown Eureka, has service from San Francisco and neck-craningly tall a coastal redwood tree is. Remember the
other hubs, but no international flights gargantuan Saturn V, the 35-story-high rocket that sent
astronauts to the moon? The largest Sequoia sempervirens grow even
TOURISM WEBSITES
exploredelnorte.com higher, topping out at 379 feet. These 3,000-year-old arboreal titans—
northcoastca.com nature’s loftiest skyscrapers—grow in only one place in the world: a
redwoods.info narrow strip of fog-shrouded mountains along California’s wild and DON LEONARD. OPPOSITE: VICTORIA DITKOVSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK
visitmendocino.com
relatively unvisited North Coast.
POPULATION
782,000 The Redwood Highway
Old-growth redwoods are preserved in a chain of parks strung along
Highway 101, known in these parts as the Redwood Highway. In
southern Humboldt County, Humboldt Redwoods State Park strad-
dles the scenic drive known as the Avenue of the Giants. In northern
Humboldt and Del Norte counties, a cluster of parks—Redwood
NORTH National Park and Prairie Creek Redwoods, Del Norte Coast Red-
COAST
woods and Jedediah Smith Redwoods state parks—form one
contiguous redwood reserve.

150 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
MUST
» SEE,
DO

» Big Footin’ The Bigfoot Collection is the big


attraction at the Willow Creek-China Flat Museum
in the mountain community of Willow Creek.
Plaster footprint casts, photos and pop culture
artifacts tell the story of the mysterious beast.
› bigfootcountry.net

The sounds of chainsaws and buzzing


» Big Eatin’ To satisfy a lumberjack-sized
appetite, drive across Humboldt Bay on the Samoa
sawmills that once dominated the North Bridge to the Samoa Cookhouse for colossal, all-
Coast are rapidly fading as the lumber you-can-eat meals served family style. The last
industry winds down. In former mill towns surviving cookhouse of its kind in the U.S., it’s
been serving hungry mill workers, longshoremen
such as Fort Bragg, tourism is replacing
and tourists since 1890.
timber as innovative galleries, restaurants › samoacookhouse.net
and brew-pubs spring to life.
Although it’s sometimes called the Red- » Ferry Tales Tour Humboldt Bay aboard the
Maraket, the last of a fleet of tiny ferries that once
wood Empire, the North Coast is more than
carried mill workers to their jobs. It’s the oldest
just tall trees: It’s also salmon-fishing boats vessel in continuous service in the country, with
LADY WASHINGTON at Humboldt bobbing in tiny harbors; Roosevelt elk bugling the tiniest licensed bar in California.
Bay’s marina, opposite; the Carson across misty meadows; steam trains chuffing › humboldtbaymaritimemuseum.com
Mansion is an elegant Victorian through a damp and dripping forest; hole-in-
house in Old Town Eureka, above.
» Boulevard of Big Trees Some of the most
magnificent redwoods on the North Coast are also
the easiest to see. At Garberville, turn off Highway
101 onto the Avenue of the Giants, a 31-mile
SPECIAL
» EVENTS 2016 stretch of the old highway that weaves like a
slalom course between vertiginous, old-growth
redwoods. The route takes you through the heart
TALL SHIPS AHOY Watch a recreation of an 18th-century naval battle in Humboldt Bay of Humboldt Redwoods State Park, which is
as two classic tall ships, the Lady Washington and the Hawaiian Chieftain, skirmish with sunnier and drier than redwood parks farther
north.
cannon fire (blanks only) and close-quarter maneuvers. April 15-20. redwoods.info
› avenueofthegiants.net
KINETIC SCULPTURE RACE Peripatetic artists of genius or possibly borderline insanity
» Victorian Hamlet Gaily painted Victorian
gather each Memorial Day weekend to race giant, whimsical, people-powered sculptures mansions line the streets of Ferndale, an idyllic
from Arcata to Ferndale along a 40-mile course that includes a crossing of Humboldt hamlet on the Eel River delta in southern Humboldt
Bay. It’s called “the triathalon of the art world.” May 28-30. kineticgrandchampionship.com County. Lovingly preserved, they give the town a
turn-of-the-last-century look that has proven
BIGFOOT DAYS The earliest and most persistent sightings of that elusive creature known irresistible to Hollywood. More than a dozen
as Bigfoot have happened around the Siskiyou Mountain town of Willow Creek. Each movies have been filmed here. Main Street’s shops
year on Labor Day weekend, the community fetes its furry friend with Bigfoot Days. Don’t keep the Victorian theme going, with old-fashioned
expect to see the big guy himself, but you’ll encounter a number of people who claim to mercantiles and even a blacksmith shop. Cradled
between two redwood forests, the entire town is
have met him. Sept. 5 bigfootcountry.net
listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
› victorianferndale.com

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 151
California can legally prescribe; and bouts of
inspired lunacy such as elaborate sculptures
racing across the landscape.
For generations, the North Coast was
said to be on the far side of the “redwood
curtain,” the psychological barrier formed
by narrow, tortuous Highway 101, which
was little more than a two-lane conduit for
heavily-laden logging trucks. But Cali-
fornia has spent the last two decades
improving the road—straightening curves,
widening it in many places to four lanes—
and now the road is an easy drive.

the-wall restaurants serving fish smoked City & Town


according to traditional Native American Transplanted New Englanders founded the
recipes; vineyards close enough to the coast town of Mendocino on a rocky bluff above
to catch the salt spray; an old Russian trading the crashing Pacific Ocean, and it still
fort; handsome Victorian villages; possible sports a whitewashed Cape Cod look. Once
glimpses of the elusive creature known as a mill town, it went into decay in the 1930s
Bigfoot; wealthy, tie-dyed growers of the as the local timber trade waned but was
region’s largest cash crop, which doctors in rediscovered in the 1960s by bohemians

CRESCENT
CITY
DRIVE
» TOUR
From the GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE,
head over to the SONOMA COAST EUREKA

MENDOCINO COUNTY CVB; REDWOOD COAST; JIRKA MATOUSEK/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR


at Bodega Bay (yes, that Bodega
Bay: Alfred Hitchcock filmed The
TOASTING THE SUNSET at Little River in HUMBOLDT
Birds there), and follow dramatic, AVENUE OF THE GIANTS
Mendocino County, top; a drive-thru REDWOODS
winding Highway 1 north past the STATE PARK
redwood and classic VW van, above; LEGGETT
historic Fort Ross, below. old Russian fort, FORT ROSS, and
Sea Ranch, GUALALA, MENDOCINO
and FORT BRAGG before heading
inland to connect with Highway MENDOCINO
101—“The Redwood Highway”—at
LEGGETT, site of the DRIVE-THRU
GUALALA
TREE PARK. Continuing north on
the Redwood Highway, you’ll come
FORT ROSS
to HUMBOLDT REDWOODS STATE BODEGA BAY
PARK and the AVENUE OF THE
GIANTS, EUREKA and the cluster of
redwood parks extending almost to
SAN FRANCISCO
the Oregon border.

152 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
and artists. On the shore of Humboldt Bay,
Eureka, the largest town on the North INSIDER’S
Coast, has also reversed decades of decline
» TIP
and turned its waterfront Old Town into
an inviting Victorian district of galleries,
Part clown, part mime, part
boutiques and cafés. Crescent City was vir-
acrobat, part juggler, the actors of
tually wiped off the map by a tsunami in
the DELL’ARTE COMPANY perform
1964. Rebuilt now, it sports a smattering of
in a uniquely physical style. A
hotels and motels that make it a good base
third of all the clowns in Cirque
for exploring nearby Jedediah Smith Red- du Soleil shows are graduates of
woods State Park. this school in the tiny town of
Blue Lake. Drop by to catch a
Heritage & Culture performance or even enroll in the
Native American tribes such as the Yurok School of Physical Theatre.
and Hoopa lived along the North Coast for dellarte.com
centuries before the arrival of fur trap-
pers—both Russians working their way
down from Alaska and American moun- Family Fun
tain men such as Jedediah Smith coming Young children might have trouble fully
overland. For more than two centuries, appreciating the timelessness of an ancient
resource extraction—primarily logging— redwood tree, but they’ll enjoy a gondola
was the region’s economic engine. As ride through the silent forest canopy and a
dwindling forests and stricter environ- chance to have their picture taken with
mental laws took their tolls starting in the four-story-high statues of Paul Bunyan and
1970s, the North Coast has transitioned to Babe the Blue Ox. Look for it at Trees of
tourism as its mainstay. Mystery, near the town of Klamath.

THE REDWOOD COAST, below.

BOB WICK/VISIT MENDOCINO. OPPOSITE: SISKIYOU COUNTY


SHASTA CASCADE
A mystical mountain towers over an
outdoor adventure playground

BY JOHN FLINN
TOP CITIES
Redding, Mount Shasta City, Weaverville, Weed,
Chico, Oroville

T
hrusting 14,179 feet into the Northern California sky, Mount
Shasta is such an imposing presence that it creates its own
GATEWAY
Redding Municipal Airport (RDD) has flights from weather—most notably the eerie-looking lenticular clouds
Los Angeles and San Francisco, and is 9 miles (14 km) that form on its summit. Some people see in them a jaunty beret,
from the Redding city center others a UFO mother ship. It’s no wonder the snow-capped volcano
has long held a mysterious attraction for poets, artists, adventurers
TOURISM WEBSITES
visitsiskiyou.org and New Age mystics.
shastacascade.com At least two religions have been founded on the flanks of the
visitredding.com mountain, which some believe to be a vortex for spiritual activity,
and a race of psychically advanced people named the Lemurians is
POPULATION
274,000 rumored to live inside.
Mount Shasta is the focal point of one of California’s least-pop-
ulated regions, a land of high-desert tumbleweeds, majestic rivers
and craggy volcanoes. This is where the West Coast’s two major
mountain ranges—the Sierra Nevada and the Cascades—run head-
long into each other.
Just to the south of Shasta, Mount Lassen, the southernmost of
the Cascade peaks, erupted less than a century ago, spewing ash as
far as 200 miles away. Today, pots of boiling mud and steam vents
SHASTA smelling of rotten eggs attest that this volcano is far from dormant.
CASCADE
To the west rise the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountains, relatively
unvisited gems that are popular venues for fly fishing and horseback

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 155
MUST
» SEE, MODOC INDIAN in traditional dress,
DO right; Red Bluff Rodeo in Tehama
County, below; Mount Shasta from
Military Pass Road, previous page.

» Vision Quest Embark on a guided, day-long


vision quest to the sacred springs, portals and
other sites that many believe make Mount Shasta
a spiritual energy vortex.
› shastavortex.com

» Crystal Persuasion Experience Mount


Shasta City’s metaphysical side by shopping for a
Lemurian Seed Crystal at The Crystal Room. But be
warned that they won’t let it go home with you
unless it’s a “good energy match.”
› crystalsmtshasta.com

» Castle Crags Do some exquisite hiking


among the soaring granite battlements of Castle
Crags State Park. It’s right off Interstate 5 a few
miles south of Mount Shasta.
› parks.ca.gov/?page_id=454

» Sundial Bridge Stroll across the Sundial


Bridge, Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava’s
now-iconic cantilever pedestrian span across the
Sacramento River, the centerpiece of the worth-
trips. To the north, the Klamath Basin The Great Outdoors
while Turtle Bay Exploration Park in Redding.
National Wildlife Refuge, which extends Mount Shasta is irresistible to climbers;
› turtlebay.org/sundialbridge
into southern Oregon, is part of the Pacific in the spring, summit-seekers are strung
»

LORISSA SORIANO; TEHAMA COYNTY. OPPOSITE: SHASTA COUNTY; LASSEN VOLCANIC NATIONAL PARK
Rolling on a River The Mount Shasta Flyway: In the fall its skies are darkened out along its most popular routes like
region is a wonderland for whitewater rafting,
with a multitude of rivers offering everything from
by more than a million migratory birds. ants on an anthill. To get to the top you
easy float trips to challenging class 4 whitewater, need an ice axe, crampons and the skill
and trips lasting anywhere from a few hours to a City & Town to use them safely. But on Mount Lassen,
few days.
For travelers, Redding was nothing more its neighbor to the south, a well-graded
› mtshastachamber.com
than a pit stop along Interstate 5 until trail runs all the way to the 10,457-foot-
the opening of the instantly iconic Sun- high summit. World-class fly fishing
INSIDER’S dial Bridge across the Sacramento River abounds in the Trinity Alps, and those
» TIP in 2004. On the lower flanks of its name- willing to walk a short distance with
sake peak, Mount Shasta City sports a their rods are almost guaranteed a spot
You don’t need to be a skilled main street lined with New Age book- to themselves. On the Salmon River,
mountaineer to stand on the stores and shops selling crystals said to between the Trinity Alps and Marble
summit of 10,463-foot MOUNT have mystical powers. No less an Mountains, Otter Bar Lodge (otterbar.com)
LASSEN. A well-graded trail authority than James Hilton, author of is one of the West’s premier whitewater
(summer only) winds past Lost Horizon, once claimed that the kayaking schools.
steaming, sulfurous fumaroles to
pretty alpine hamlet of Weaverville,
the top of the southernmost
gateway to the Trinity Alps, was the Heritage & Culture
volcano in the Cascade Range.
closest he’s ever come to a real-life The Shasta Tribe of Native Americans, a
nps.gov/lavo
Shangri-La. band of hunters and fishermen who

156 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SPECIAL
» EVENTS 2016
Classic cars, sock hops and ’50s-style burger joints are the big attractions of Redding’s
KOOL APRIL NITES. April 16-24 koolaprilnites.com

Get a close-up look at Redding’s two celebrity bald eagles, LIBERTY AND SPIRIT, on a
free tour of their nesting spots along the Sacramento River. Tours run every second
Saturday from October through mid June. facebook.com/FriendsoftheReddingEagles

lived in cedar-plank houses with base- New Age seekers began filtering into the
ments, once occupied much of what is area, culminating in 1987’s “Harmonic
now far-northern California and Convergence,” which identified Shasta
southern Oregon. Their population as one of the world’s “power centers.”
dropped rapidly as settlers seized land
following the discovery of gold in Yreka Family Fun
and Upper Soda Springs in 1850. To the The Sundial Bridge is the big draw, but
east, at what is now Lava Beds National for families, the surrounding Turtle Bay
Monument, the Modoc tribe and the Exploration Center in Redding offers a
U.S. Army fought the last of the Indian full day’s worth of activities empha-
wars in California in 1872-73. In the late sizing the Sacramento River watershed,
1880s, the Central Pacific Railroad including an aquarium, museum, zoo,
spurred development of the timber and botanical garden and a recreated logging
tourism industries, and in the 1970s, camp. turtlebay.org

DRIVE
» TOUR
The VOLCANIC LEGACY
SCENIC BYWAY is a
500-mile-long route that
winds from LAKE
ALMANOR, south of
Mount Lassen, to CRATER
LAKE in southern Oregon,
with access to most of the
region’s major attractions.
volcaniclegacybyway.org

BUMPASS HELL, Lassen Volcanic


National Park, top right; Shasta
Dam and Lake, left.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 157
HIGH SIERRA
The Range of Light is a user-friendly
land of superlatives

BY JOHN FLINN
TOP CITIES
South Lake Tahoe, Truckee, Tahoe City, Bishop,

“T
Mammoth Lakes, Oakhurst, Madera he Range of Light” was John Muir’s pet name for his
beloved Sierra Nevada. It’s not just the ethereal lumi-
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY
Reno-Tahoe International Airport (RNO),
nosity of the glacially polished granite that drew the
3 miles from Reno, Nevada city center renowned naturalist—and continues to draw people—to the Sierra
again and again. It’s the pristine lakes and rivers, the dramatic
TOURISM WEBSITES
hiking and biking trails, the contrast between the green meadows
yosemitepark.com
visitinglaketahoe.com
and stony battlements.
tahoesouth.com The Sierra Nevada may be one of the highest and most majestic
yosemitethisyear.com mountain ranges in North America, but it’s also one of the most
visitmammoth.com
accessible and user-friendly. Stretching 400 miles from north to
south, and about 70 from east to west, it’s crossed by seven high- RCPPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LYNN Y/SHUTTERSTOCK
POPULATION
600,000 ways—four of them open all year—and encompasses everything
from Lake Tahoe—where you might find yourself crowding
shoulder-to-shoulder around a boisterous craps table—to remote
canyons in Yosemite or Kings Canyon national parks where you
can spend a silent and solitary afternoon watching Muir’s favorite
bird, the water ouzel, plunge into waterfalls and cascades.
In a state with no shortage of superlatives, the region has more
than its share: It can boast the world’s oldest tree, the world’s most
HIGH massive tree, the Old West’s largest ghost town, the nation’s
SIERRA
highest waterfall and—until Alaska came along and rewrote the
record books—the nation’s highest peak.

160 2016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
MUST
» SEE,
The range is home to three national DO
parks, 15 state parks, two national mon-
uments and 20 officially designated
wilderness areas. Hikers get itchy feet at
the mere mention of its celebrated
walking paths: the John Muir Trail; the » Long Live Mono Lake Set in a brooding,
Tahoe Rim Trail; the Pacific Crest Trail; volcanic, Tolkienesque landscape, Mono Lake is
one of the most otherworldly sights in California,
the Tahoe-Yosemite Trail. At the drop of
with spiky tufa towers rising out of an alkaline
winter’s first snowflake, skiers begin lake. Explore it by kayak or canoe, or take a
making plans for the three premier ski guided naturalist walk along the shoreline.
resorts on America’s West Coast: Squaw Geographically speaking, the moun- › monolake.org
Valley (site of the 1960 Winter tain range is pretty much one big chunk
› calderakayak.com
Olympics), Heavenly and Mammoth of granite tilted like a badly placed brick » The Big Picture It’s nearly impossible to
Mountain. Streams rushing down the in a cobblestone street: It’s gently take a boring picture in Yosemite Valley, but to ele-
vate your camera work to the next level, sign up
range’s sheer east slope into the Owens sloped on the west side and quite steep
for a guided photography walk. They range from
Valley are renowned for their fly fishing. on the east, lower in the north and free beginners classes to inexpensive four-hour
courses offered through the Ansel Adams Galley.
› nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/art.htm
DRIVE › yosemitepark.com/ansel-adams-photography-
classes.aspx
» TOUR
» California’s Everest You don’t have to be
Sir Edmund Hillary or Tenzing Norgay to plant your
flag on the 14,495-foot summit of Mount Whitney,
the tallest mountain in the Lower 48. The pathway
to the top begins west of the town of Lone Pine
and gains an ear-popping 6,100 feet in 11 miles.
› mount-whitney.com
» Biggest Tree Tree-huggers, don’t bother
trying to wrap your arms around the General
Sherman Tree in Sequoia National Park. With a cir-
cumference of 102 feet, the giant sequoia is the
largest known tree on the planet. While not quite
as tall as its coastal cousins, its staggering girth
more than makes up for it.
› nps.gov/seki/naturescience/sherman.htm
Highway 120 is a magical mystery tour through the heart of Yosemite
National Park’s exquisite high country. From the handsome old mining » The Wild, Wild West Bodie, possibly the
town of GROVELAND, follow 120 east into the park (HETCH HETCHY, the Old West’s most notorious mining town, now
exists in a state of “arrested decay” on a high,
fraternal twin of Yosemite Valley that was dammed to provide San
windswept plain northeast of Yosemite. It’s one of
Francisco’s water supply, is a short side trip) past the TUOLUMNE GROVE of America’s most extensive ghost towns.
giant sequoias and up into the rarified alpine world. Pull over at OLMSTEAD › parks.ca.gov/?page_id=509
POINT to view HALF DOME from an angle you’ve never seen before. You’ll
traverse TUOLUMNE MEADOWS, the jumping-off point for some of
Yosemite’s finest hiking trails, and cross 9,943-foot TIOGA PASS before KAYAKING on crystalline Lake Tahoe,
top; hiking in Yosemite National Park
descending three-quarters of a vertical mile to shimmering MONO LAKE.
with Half Dome, opposite.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 161
Row now houses busy restaurants and watch the progress of climbers inching

KENNY KARST/DNC PARKS & RESORTS AT YOSEMITE, INC.; KAVRAM/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: KENNY KARST/DNC PARKS & RESORTS AT YOSEMITE, INC.
bars, some adorned with portraits of gun- their way up the impossibly sheer granite
slingers and desperadoes. Farther south, walls. Tempted to try it? Sign up for an
sprawling Bishop sports the Owens Valley’s introductory class at the Yosemite Moun-
most extensive collection of lodging, taineering School—or at least treat
dining and resupply outlets. yourself to a “Go Climb a Rock” T-shirt.
With some of the most reliably sunny
The Great Outdoors summer weather of any major mountain
Just a few hours’ drive from San Francisco range, the High Sierra is a hiker’s paradise,
or Los Angeles, the Sierra Nevada has been from easy day walks in the Desolation
higher in the south. Keep that in mind California’s outdoor playground almost Wilderness to challenging, multi-week
when choosing a hiking trail: for an easier since the arrival of the original 49ers. In journeys through Kings Canyon and
amble, look to the north and west; for a Yosemite Valley, spectators with telescopes Sequoia national parks. Skiers have their
challenging ascent, head south and east.

SPECIAL
City & Town
Now connected by gondola to the Heav-
» EVENTS 2016
enly ski resort, the bustling town of South
Lake Tahoe, located on the lakeshore and Celebrate with some of America’s top chefs for evenings full of cooking demonstrations, meet-
the Nevada border, has seen an injection of and-greets and, of course, sumptuous dinners at Yosemite CHEF’S HOLIDAYS, held in the
landmark Ahwahnee Hotel. Runs most evenings from Jan. 10 through Feb. 4
energy and interest in recent years, with
yosemitepark.com/chefs-holidays
new restaurants, shops and galleries. With
a large inventory of hotel rooms and a
“LIGHTS ON THE LAKE,” held each Fourth of July at South Lake Tahoe, is the largest
cluster of hotel-casinos just a few steps synchronized fireworks show west of the Mississippi. July 4 tahoesouth.com
over the border, it’s a good bet for inexpen-
sive lodging. In Truckee, a handsome old With past participants such as Michael Jordan, Charles Barkley and John Elway, South Lake
railroad and lumber town between Donner Tahoe’s AMERICAN CENTURY GOLF CHAMPIONSHIP has been called the “Super Bowl

Pass and Squaw Valley, a collection of Old of Celebrity Sports.” July 19-24 tahoecelebritygolf.com

West historic buildings along Commercial

162 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
choice of world-class venues, from Sierra. One of the best places to see one is the
beginner-friendly Granlibakken to the Great Sierra Mine, a short but steep hike
INSIDER’S
double-diamond chutes of Squaw Valley from Tioga Pass in Yosemite. You’ll find the
» TIP
and Heavenly. In summer, many of the remains of old miners’ cabins, but exercise
resorts—particularly Northstar and Mam- care around the shafts, several of which The hardest part of hiking to
moth—convert their lifts and gondolas to remain open and unfenced. the top of YOSEMITE’S HALF
carry mountain bikes. DOME might not be the mile of
Family Fun elevation gain or the vertiginous
Heritage & Culture If the kids aren’t yet ready for full-on metal cables covering the last
Native Americans, pioneer emigrants and camping, Lake Tahoe has two old-timey 400 feet: It’s scoring the coveted,
gold miners all left their marks on the High resorts with knotty-pine cabins scattered mandatory permit. They’re

Sierra—often literally. At Grinding Rock in the trees near the lakeshore, bike and issued via a daily online lottery

State Historic Park near the town of Twain paddleboat rentals and ice cream parlors. beginning March 1 and ending

Harte, Miwok Indians once ground acorns Camp Richardson is on the west shore, March 31.
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/
on an outcrop of marbleized limestone. The near Tahoe City; Zephyr Cove is on the
hdpermits
1,185 mortar holes they left behind consti- south shore, just over the border in Nevada.
tute the largest such collection in North camprichardson.com zephyrcove.com
America. In the Hope Valley, just south of
Lake Tahoe, you can still see ruts in the rocks
left by the covered wagons of settlers on the
Emigrant Trail. The shafts of thousands of
abandoned mines pockmark the High

FAMILY IN THE MARIPOSA GROVE of giant


sequoias, Yosemite, opposite left; sunset on
Mono Lake, opposite top; chef demo at
Yosemite Food and Wine Events, below;
cross-country skiing in the high country, right;
Bracebridge Dinner at Yosemite, bottom right.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 163
LAKE TAHOE SOUTH SHORE
Indoor and outdoor playground

BY BILL FINK

FROM SERENE VIEWS over mirror-flat South Lake makeover, the choices are
HIKE, PLAY, morning waters of Lake Tahoe and the greater than ever.
» EAT, DANCE! gentle footfall of hikers on pine needle-
covered forest paths, to the jangle of slot Summer
Visitor Information
machines and the pumping bass of a Summer activity around the South Shore
tahoesouth.com
casino dance club, Lake Tahoe South Shore is understandably focused on the beautiful
skiheavenly.com
(what the marketers call Tahoe South) is a waters of spectacular Lake Tahoe. Beaches
tahoecelebritygolf.com
destination hosting a unique mix of are packed with summer revelers, while
fs.usda.gov/ltbmu
wilderness and wild-ness, an indoor and the waters are filled with every type of
kirkwood.com
outdoor playground with equal measures floating vessel imaginable—from kayaks
sierraattahoe.com of altitude and attitude. Visitors can follow and stand-up paddle boards to small sail-
thelandingtahoe.com their desires to find peace and solitude on boats, fishing cruisers, water-ski boats,
basecamphotels.com back country hikes or ski runs, or dive into luxury cruising vessels and even two mas-
hardrockcasinolaketahoe.com a swirling social scene at a packed summer sive paddleboats, the Tahoe Queen and Ms.
beach, holler at a crowded craps table or Dixie II that run daily Emerald Bay cruises.
slurp microbrews at an après ski bar com- For fun out of the water, the South
plete with go-go dancers. It’s dealer’s Shore is a hiker’s paradise with journeys
choice on the South Shore. And with new ranging from multi-day treks into the Des-
hotel, restaurant and retail spaces contin- olation Wilderness and a steep day’s climb
uing to open this year as part of a full up to the awe-inspiring views of Mt. Tallac,

164 201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SLEIGH RIDE fun, right; biking at
Corral Loop, below; kayaking on the
lake, opposite.
JAMIE KINGHAM/LAKE TAHOE VISITORS AUTHORITY; BEN FISH/LAKE TAHOE VISITORS AUTHORITY. OPPOSITE: JEFF DOW/CAMP RICHARDSON RESORT

to relaxed family strolls in flat meadows at popular mountain celebrating its 60th performers ranging from Elton John to
Camp Richardson and around the Tallac anniversary. It spans two states, with con- Kenny Chesney and Aerosmith, while the
Historic Site or just lazing at the beach. trasting views of the blue Tahoe waters Hard Rock Hotel has hosted both heavy
Cyclists can take advantage of a network of and the high-prairie Nevada countryside. metal and bluegrass shows. Packed bars
road rides and mountain paths with every- The Heavenly Gondola drops visitors right and clubs give this indoor playground a
thing from a scenic roll in the woods to into the action in the center of the city. Vegas feel, albeit at 6200 feet above sea
treacherous, teeth-rattling mountain Heavenly’s Tamarack Lodge has an après level. Outside the casinos, the main strip
descents. The ambitious can even bike the ski scene with pumping music, multiple of town boasts shopping opportunities
entire 72-mile circumference of Lake bars and go-go dancers gyrating to keep with continued new openings in the
Tahoe, while the cautious can pedal themselves (and the viewers) warm. Kirk- “Chateau at the Village” retail area, name-
recently opened bike paths close to town. wood, about a 45-minute drive from town, brand boutiques as well as quirky local
Golfers can check out the lakeside Edge- is known for its off-piste terrain, deep ski shops and crafts stores. Dining can be
wood Tahoe Golf Course (home of the snow and relaxed vibe. Sierra-at-Tahoe is anything from sushi to pizza and
popular American Century celebrity golf a medium-sized family-oriented ski resort gourmet cuisine—offered at casual local
tournament in July) and several other featuring a new base plaza, located on diners (like the newly opened California
nearby courses. Highway 50 between South Lake Tahoe Burger Company)—to luxury lakeside
Heavenly Mountain Resort’s on-moun- and Sacramento. restaurants. When you finally decide to
tain Epic Discovery adventure center take a rest, South Lake Tahoe offers a vast
includes new zip lines, an educational forest 24/7/365 array of lodging options, including
canopy tour and a kids ropes course, as well When the day of outdoor activity is done, recently launched boutique hotels like
as a network of hiking trails branching off the second shift of fun is just beginning the outdoorsy-themed Basecamp Hotel
from their gondola (which is worth a sight- around South Lake Tahoe. High-rise and the waterfront five-star resort of The
seeing ride even if you never step off it). casinos rock with the sounds and energy Landing and the newly opened Hard Rock
of non-stop gambling. Gamers get Hotel & Casino.
Winter recharged in an array of restaurants and Regardless of your choice of food,
Lake Tahoe South Shore boasts three top- buffets, as well as at comedy shows and activity or season, Lake Tahoe South Shore
notch ski resorts: Heavenly, Kirkwood and live music events like Harveys Summer is a spot to satisfy any sort of appetite—
Sierra-at-Tahoe. Heavenly is a huge and Concert Series, whose 2015 events featured you’ll only be hungry for another trip.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 165
GOLD COUNTRY
A Mother Lode of attractions
in the Sierra Foothills

BY JOHN FLINN
TOP CITIES
Sacramento, Sonora, Placerville, Auburn, Downieville,
Sutter Creek, Nevada City, Jackson, Columbia, Murphys,
Jamestown, Angels Camp

I
t was a flash in the pan that changed the history of
California, and of the world. The sparkling gold nugget
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY
Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 13 miles (21 km) that caught the eye of James W. Marshall as he tended a
from the city center sawmill in the Sierra Nevada foothills in January 1848 set off
a gold rush that drew more than 300,000 would-be prospec-
TOURISM WEBSITES
tors the following year from the eastern U.S., South America,
discovergold.org
visit-eldorado.com Europe, even China. They were known as the 49ers.
visitsacramento.com Overnight, the Gold Rush transformed San Francisco
from a sleepy port to a rollicking city and persuaded Con-
POPULATION
gress to put California—wrested from Mexico by war just
650,000
two years earlier—on the fast track to statehood. Most of the
gold was found in a 300-mile belt that extended through the
Sierra foothills, from Downieville in the north to Coarsegold
in the south. Miners called it the “Mother Lode.”
In a state working tirelessly to invent the future, the Gold
Country remains the most visible manifestation of its not-
so-distant past, with towns sporting wood-plank sidewalks,
swinging saloon doors, hitching posts and red-brick build-
GOLD ings. (You’ll quickly discover that the best preserved of these
COUNTRY
belonged to Wells Fargo and, oddly, the Independent Order
of Odd Fellows.)

168 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SPECIAL
» EVENTS 2016 MUST
» SEE,
Nearly three dozen El Dorado County wineries participate in TALES FROM THE DO
CELLAR, a blend of wine-tasting, live music, food and literary-themed events. April 9-10
and 16-17 passporteldorado.com

Wager on a jumping frog as Mark Twain’s most beloved story is commemorated each
year at the CALAVERAS COUNTY FAIR & JUMPING FROG JUBILEE in Angels Camp. » All Aboard Rail buffs will want to lay tracks
May 19-22 frogtown.org for the California State Railroad Museum, one of
the best of its kind in the nation. It’s located in Old
The HANGTOWN HARMONICA CHAMPIONSHIP is the highlight of the Cowboys Sacramento, which preserves a district of the state
and Cornbread festival celebrating western living at the El Dorado County Fairgrounds. capital pretty much as it looked in Gold Rush days.
July 16 cowboysandcornbread.com › csrmf.org
» Mother Lode Underground Scratch
beneath the surface for a tour of limestone cav-
TOWER BRIDGE in Sacramento, opposite; Calaveras Big Trees Association carriage ride erns sporting dogtooth spar crystals and
at Winter Wonderland, below; a historic building in Old Sacramento, bottom right. head-banging stalactites at Mercer Caverns.
› mercercaverns.com
» Bottoms Up Sample rich, jammy Zinfandels
and other wines without the crowds at dozens of
wineries in California’s up-and-coming wine
region—Amador, El Dorado and Calaveras counties.
› discovercaliforniawines.com/discover-
california/sierra-foothills

» There’s an Apple for That Allow the aroma


ALAN BEYMER/GOLD COUNTRY VISITOR’S ASSOCIATION; MILOSK50/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: PHOTO.UA/SHUTTERSTOCK

of freshly baked apple pies, fritters, turnovers and


strudel to lure you off Highway 50 east of Plac-
erville to a place called Apple Hill. More than 50
growers participate in a celebration of the apple
harvest—and of autumn itself—with cider,
hayrides, pumpkin patches, hay mazes and other
family fun. It runs from Labor Day to Christmas.
› applehill.com
» “Gem of the Southern Mines” Step back
into the 1850s with a visit to Columbia State His-
toric Park, a functioning town preserved as it was
in the Gold Rush era.
› parks.ca.gov/?page_id=552

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 169
Today you can still pan for gold—it’s point for exploring the Gold Country.
INSIDER’S often said there’s more left in the ground Since the arrival of the 49ers, the small
» TIP than the original 49ers ever took out—but towns of the Gold Country proper have
you can also raft some of California’s froth- morphed through several distinct stages,
Inspect the signatures of everyone iest rivers, explore caverns and sample from rough-and-tumble boomtowns, to
from Mark Twain to Ulysses S. Chardonnay and Syrah in a number of somnolent hamlets, to destinations for

Grant to Charles Bolles (better uncrowded, up-and-coming wineries. biker rallies, to, finally, genteel venues for
weekend getaways sporting comfortable
known as Black Bart) in the
City & Town B&Bs, sophisticated restaurants, antique
register of the historic MURPHYS
Sacramento was the terminus of the stores and nearby wineries. Among the
HOTEL, one of the oldest
Transcontinental Railroad—from there, most popular are Sutter Creek, Nevada
continually operating hotels in
passengers completed their journey to San City and Murphys. The two largest towns
California. murphyshotel.com Francisco by ferry and barge—and the city of the Sierra foothills—Sonora and Plac-
still plays a vital role as the jumping-off erville—offer all this, plus a large
selection of motels, restaurants and shops
in all price categories.

The Great Outdoors


From May to mid October, the American
River is California’s top venue for white-
water rafting. The river flow is controlled
by releases from upstream reservoirs, so
rafters are assured of good conditions.
Outfitters offer both half-day and full-day

COLUMBIA STATE HISTORIC PARK,


left; old timers making music in the
western gold mining town of
Columbia, above; California’s State
Capitol in Sacramento, opposite.

170 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
trips through Class III whitewater,
ending up at Marshall Gold Discovery
State Historic Park or Folsom Lake. In the
northern Sierra, the town of Downieville
has become a center for mountain
biking. Local bike shops offer rentals and
shuttles on old mining roads and single
tracks from the casual to the technical,
including a 15-mile ride with a 4,000-
foot descent. Houseboaters flock to vast,
sprawling Gold Country reservoirs such
as New Melones Lake, Don Pedro Lake
and Lake McClure.

DRIVE
» TOUR

NAVIGATING A TOUR
through the Gold Country
couldn’t be easier: HIGHWAY
49—named for the original
49ers—traverses the entire
HERMOSA CHRIS/SHUTTERSOCK. OPPOSITE: JASPERDO/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; PIERDELUNE/SHUTTERSTOCK

region. It stretches nearly


300 miles through the
Sierra foothills, from
DOWNIEVILLE in the north
to OAKHURST in the south,
linking all the Gold
Country’s major towns and
sights. Allow at least two
days for the journey. Start
with a mountain-biking excursion in DOWNIEVILLE, poke around the
galleries and antique shops of NEVADA CITY and drop by the site where
Marshall and Sutter found those first sparkling nuggets in COLOMA.
SUTTER CREEK, with a bounty of inviting B&Bs and restaurants serving
the local wine, is a good place to spend the night. On your second day,
explore ANGELS CAMP—perhaps pausing to wager on a frog if it’s
jumping season (the third week in May)—try your hand at panning for
gold at COLUMBIA STATE HISTORIC PARK and take a ride on the historic
steam train in JAMESTOWN’S RAILTOWN 1897 STATE HISTORIC PARK.
CENTRAL VALLEY
California’s rich garden

TOP CITIES BY JILL K. ROBINSON


Modesto, Fresno, Bakersfield, Davis, Stockton,
Fairfield, Merced, Visalia, Madera, Vacaville,
Manteca, Lodi

C
alifornia’s Central Valley contains thousands of acres of land

GARY C. TOGNONI/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LODI CVB; JUVENILE TETE-A-TETE/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR


INTERNATIONAL GATEWAYS
under cultivation and small farming communities that seem
Sacramento International Airport (SMF), 80 miles to have been frozen in time. The fertile green strip in the center
(129 km) from Modesto, 172 miles (277 km) from Fresno of California is considered by many to be the greatest garden in the
San Francisco International Airport (SFO), 94 miles world. The 400-mile-long Central Valley, wedged between the Sierra
(151 km) from Modesto, 186 miles (299 km) from Fresno Nevada range and the coastal mountains in the center of California, is
Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), filled with farms, orchards and vineyards growing everything from
118 miles (190 km) from Bakersfield almonds to peaches to grapes. It’s likely that you’ve benefited from the
region even if you haven’t visited before, as it supplies as much as 45
TOURISM WEBSITE
visitcentralvalley.com
percent of the food eaten in the United States.
In the larger cities of the Central Valley (Modesto, Fresno and Bak-
POPULATION ersfield), there’s still a small-town friendliness that encourages visitors
4,858,000
to slow down and look beyond the farmland. From the quiet, northern-
most towns of Orland, Yuba City and Davis to Visalia, Tulare and
Maricopa at the southern end of the valley, it’s easy to feel at home and
see what some call “the Other California.”
Travelers using Interstate 5 to get through the Central Valley may
believe the agricultural region is nothing more than a sleepy little
farming area, but it also has a wealth of spectacular scenery, opportu-
CENTRAL
VALLEY nities for outdoor recreation, highlights of California history and funky
roadside diners. The best way to discover the area is by slowing down

172 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
MUST
» SEE,
DO

» Middle Mountains Hike the Sutter Buttes,


remnants of an ancient volcano and known as the
“world’s smallest mountain range.”
› sutterbutteslandtrust.org
» Baseball Island Catch a baseball game at
Banner Island, home of the Stockton Ports, an off-
shoot of the team credited with inspiring Ernest
Lawrence Thayer’s famous poem, “Casey at the Bat.”
› stocktonports.com

» Underground Gardens Wander through


the gardens in the hand-built network of
Forestiere Gardens’ underground rooms, court-
yards and passageways.
› undergroundgardens.com
PADDLE BOARDING at Lodi Lake, above; Sandhill Crane Festival, bottom right;
rolling green hills of a ranch outside Fresno, opposite. » Wine Tasting Pay a visit to one of the 85
wineries in Lodi, producing more than 40 percent
of the state’s premium Zinfandel.
› lodiwine.com
DRIVE
» TOUR » Old Town Wander through the delta town of
Locke, the only U.S. town built exclusively by the
Chinese for the Chinese.
It may be tempting to cover › locketown.com
the Central Valley by zooming
along on Interstate 5, but
instead, take the slower
HIGHWAY 99—often referred
to as “California’s Main Street,”
and the very same road the
fictional Joad family traveled
in The Grapes of Wrath. Start
in oil-town BAKERSFIELD and
head north toward FRESNO,
MERCED and MODESTO. As
you pass from the San
Joaquin Valley into the
Sacramento River Delta, take
a jog over to Interstate 5 to pass to the west of Sacramento and into
Yolo, Colusa and Glenn counties at the north end of the great
Central Valley.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 173
THE OLD SOUTHERN PACIFIC TRAIN STATION, Modesto, right;
food and wine tasting at Lodi, below.

and taking Highway 99, which feels more


like a back road. Cities and towns cluster
along the route, giving you a chance to pull
off and explore at your leisure.
Two river valleys—the Sacramento and
San Joaquin—dominate the majority of the
region, and the area waterways serve as
opportunities for sport (fishing, rafting,
waterskiing) and bird migration rest stops,
as well as a necessary element of farming.
In the hot summer months, the area’s
rivers and lakes help residents and tourists
alike cool off, and a shady swimming hole
is an ideal spot to spend an afternoon.
The most notable souvenir from a trip
through the Central Valley comes from any
of the unbeatable roadside produce stands.

ANTHONY MCCAMMON PHOTOGRAPHY; SCOTT PROKOP/SHUTTERSTOCK


Be sure to enjoy them before you return
home, because the edible treasure of the
region is best sampled fresh.

City & Town


INSIDER’S Bicycles outnumber cars in college-town
» TIP Davis, with more bikes per capita than any
U.S. city. Hotrods and Modesto were the
Get to know the distinctive country music style known as the stars of American Graffiti—and auto fans
BAKERSFIELD SOUND, popularized by Buck Owens and Merle still flock to the valley city. Fresno’s archi-
Haggard in one of the best places to hear it: Buck Owens’ Crystal tectural history includes brick warehouses
Palace in Bakersfield. along the Santa Fe railroad tracks and the
1928 Pantages Theatre.

174 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
SPECIAL
» EVENTS 2016

MARCH MEET March 3-6, Bakersfield famosoraceway.com

ROGUE PERFORMANCE FESTIVAL March 3-12, Fresno roguefestival.com

PICNIC DAY April 16, Davis picnicday.ucdavis.edu

ZINFEST WINE FESTIVAL May 13-15, Lodi zinfest.com

AMERICAN GRAFFITI CAR SHOW & FESTIVAL June 10-12, Modesto americangraffitifestival.com

VILLAGE FEST Sept. 10, Bakersfield bakersfieldvillagefest.com

FESTIVAL OF ROSES Sept. 10, Wasco ci.wasco.ca.us

BIG FRESNO FAIR Oct. 5-16, Fresno fresnofair.com


The Great Outdoors
BRUBECK FESTIVAL Oct. 14-15, Stockton pacific.edu/Brubeck-Institute.html
A sprawling web of rivers twists through the
Central Valley—from the Sacramento to the SANDHILL CRANE FESTIVAL Nov. 4-6, Lodi cranefestival.com
San Joaquin to the Feather. The best place to
enjoy river life is in the Sacramento Delta,
with lush wetlands and vast orchards. The
Sutter Buttes—considered the world’s
smallest mountain range—rise above the
flat valley at its northernmost point.

Heritage & Culture


Agriculture has drawn a diverse group of
people to the Central Valley over the years,
including migrant workers from Latin
America, Dust Bowl-era farmers and
entertaining country music masters. Vis-
itors are always welcome to join regional
celebrations, from Basque festivals to har-
vest days to Portuguese festas—which
include bloodless bullfights.

Family Fun
Families who love wide-open spaces will
find plenty to do in the Central Valley.
Escape the summer heat by tubing down
the Sacramento River, discover the
amazing Forestiere Underground Gardens
in Fresno, wander through the delta town
of Locke, or gawk at restored military air-
craft at the Castle Air Museum.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 175
DESERTS
A fun in the sun playground for everyone

B Y C H R I S TO P H E R P. B A K E R
TOP CITIES
Palm Springs, Palm Desert, La Quinta, Rancho Mirage,
Barstow, Indian Wells, Needles, Salton Sea, Mojave

W
ith its awesome landscapes and sublime winter weather, Cal-
INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY ifornia’s desert region has a unique allure. More than five
Palm Springs International Airport (PSP), 10 minutes million visitors annually descend on Palm Springs and envi-
from downtown Palm Springs, 44 miles (71 km) from
rons for club- and racket-swinging recreation and to sample nature’s raw
Anza-Borrego State Park
beauty, from lush palm oases to soothing hot mineral spas. Add hip trade-
TOURISM WEBSITES mark mid-century architecture and a slow-and-easy lifestyle that’s being
ci.palm-springs.ca.us revived with a feverish and youthful new Hollywood energy. No wonder
palm-desert.org
“It’s hot!” has new meaning. After all, where else can you golf in the
la-quinta.org
morning, go snowshoeing in the afternoon, and enjoy a chilled martini

WELCOMIA/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: JPHOTOGOLFER/SHUTTERSTOCK


ranchomirageca.gov
barstowca.org by the pool in the evening?
indio.org In the 1950s and ’60s, Frank Sinatra and his Rat Pack made Palm Springs
Anza-Borrego SP: parks.ca.gov/?page_id=638
the definition of cool. By the 1970s, the Hollywood set had moved “down
Death Valley NP: nps.gov/deva
Joshua Tree NP: nps.gov/jotr valley” to Palm Desert and Rancho Mirage, with their luxurious golf
courses and country clubs. But Palm Springs has staged an impressive
POPULATION comeback. Newly fresh and compelling, this epicenter for desert vaca-
750,000
tions exudes contemporary cool. No wonder a whole new generation of
Hollywood stars and millennials is flocking to where it’s the 1960s all over
again. Plus, a spectacular and dramatic redevelopment plan, which broke
ground in 2014, promises to add even more luster to downtown Palm
Springs, with several exciting new luxury hotels, a stunning new Agua
DESERTS Caliente Cultural Museum, and a pedestrian walkway linking the world-
class Palm Springs Art Museum to “The Strip.”

176 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
OLD TOWN LA QUINTA, Coachella Valley, opposite; LPGA Tour MUST
tournament at Mission Hills Country Club, Rancho Mirage, below. » SEE,
DO
SPECIAL
» EVENTS 2016
PALM SPRINGS INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL
Jan. 1-11, Palm Springs psfilmfest.org » Palm Springs Aerial Tramway Revolving through 360
degrees as it climbs more than two miles to the mountain station at
RIVERSIDE COUNTY FAIR AND NATIONAL DATE FESTIVAL
8,516 feet elevation, this tram whisks you to another world. It’s a
Feb. 12-21, Indio datefest.org
sensational ride, perfect for escaping the heat of summer to hike
BNP PARIBAS OPEN March 7-20, Indian Wells bnpparibasopen.com amid pine forest where the temperatures are pleasantly cool. Or
head up to the snows in winter to explore by snowshoe or on cross-
FASHION WEEK April 3-9, Palm Desert fashionweekelpaseo.com
country skis. The mountain station has a gourmet restaurant—great
COACHELLA MUSIC FESTIVAL April 15-17, 22-24 Indio coachella.com for a candlelit dinner with the lights of the valley sparkling far below.
STAGECOACH COUNTRY MUSIC FESTIVAL › pstramway.com
April 29-May 1, Indio stagecoachfestival.com

JOSHUA TREE MUSIC FESTIVAL


» Palm Springs Modern The mid-20th-century Modernist
movement imbues Palm Springs with much of its unique appeal. For
May 12-15, Oct. 6-9 Joshua Tree joshuatreemusicfestival.com
a fascinating insight into sophisticated designs, explore the city with
51ST ANNUAL BORREGO DAYS DESERT FESTIVAL an expert architectural guide who can explain the inspiration for the
Oct. 28-30 Borrego Springs borregodays.com iconic Bank of America building, Kaufmann House and “Ship of the
DEATH VALLEY 49ERS ENCAMPMENT Desert.” Perhaps you’ll even get to see inside the famous steel
Nov. 9-13 Death Valley deathvalley49ers.org houses, and even a home or two of the rich and famous.
FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS PARADE Dec. 3, Palm Springs psfestivaloflights.com › palmspringsmodern.com

» Palm Springs Museums To satisfy cultural yearnings, start


at the Palm Springs Art Museum. Considered one of California’s
finest regional museums, this world-class venue is notable for its
contemporary art and astounding glass art in the Denney Western
An easy 90-minute drive from Los Angeles, “Palm Springs” is under-
American Art Wing. Its Mesoamerican collection includes basketry,
stood as the entire Coachella Valley, comprising eight “desert resort pottery and other artifacts by local Amerindian tribes. The Palm
communities” clustered at the foot of the San Jacinto Mountains. They Springs Air Museum is one of the world’s foremost museums
merge into one another along Highway 111—one of California’s great dedicated to WWII aircraft, displayed in two hangars replicating the
European and Pacific theaters.
urban drives. The physical setting is out of this world. Majestic moun-
› psmuseum.org
tains soar on three sides, glistening with snow in the winter sunshine. › palmspringsairmuseum.org
There’s no shortage of activities and attractions. The dining is fabulous.
The spas are among California’s best. And the region boasts several ritzy » Valley Vistas To truly appreciate the desert’s beauty and
scale, get up high. Look to the horizon from the Coachella Valley
casinos. Museums cater to WWII aviation buffs, art fans and nature lovers
Vista Point, on Highway 74, five miles uphill from Palm Desert. The
keen to experience desert ecology. El Paseo gives Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive Bump and Grind trail rewards hikers with sensational views over
a run for its money in its quality and range of boutiques. Palm Springs’ Palm Springs, as does the Peaks Restaurant at the Palm Springs
Aerial Tram’s Mountain Station. And hauling yourself out of bed
early for the pre-dawn drive to Dante’s View is well worth it to
watch Death Valley, far below, unveiled at sunrise.
› nps.gov/deva

» Windmill Tours There’s a reason thousands of wind turbines


stud the landscape north of Palm Springs and northwest of Mojave:
gale-force winds whip through the San Gregorio and Tehachapi
passes, respectively. Thick as forests, the turbines inspire a “WOW!”
response. Curious to find out the facts behind these giant fans with
blades half the length of a football field? Palm Springs Windmill
Tours will take you behind the scenes and give you the low-down on
four generations of technology.
› windmilltours.com

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 177
you can shake a 4-iron at: about 120 in all.
Incising the slopes of the San Jacinto
Mountains, the three Indian Canyons
tempt hikers with 30 miles of trails and
picnic sites. Fed by natural springs, stands
of desert fan palms crowd the canyon
floors, providing sheltering oases for kit
fox, bighorn sheep and coyote. Ancient
petroglyphs can be seen while hiking
Andreas Canyon and Tahquitz Canyon,
with its spectacular 60-foot-tall waterfall.

Natural Wonders
Brimming with the glories of nature, the
desert is a paradise for anyone who appre-
ciates stupendous landscapes. The scenery
is far more diverse than you might imagine,
ranging from below sea level to more than
music, film and arts festivals are world- 10,000 feet atop Mount San Jacinto.
renowned. More than two million visitors Abundant rains in winter carpet the
come annually to play golf on more than desert with wildflowers—nowhere more
one hundred courses. Almost as many spectacular than the springtime bloom of
arrive to explore the palm groves, alpine Antelope Valley Poppy State Reserve, near

KEITH CUDDEBACK/FLICKR/CREATIVE COMMONS. PALM SPRINGS CVB. OPPOSITE: GORD MCKENNA/FLICKR CREATIVE COMMONS
summits or spectacular desert landscapes the town of Mojave. Snaking south through
of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park and the Coachella Valley, scenic palm-lined
Joshua Tree National Park. And farther Highway 111 will deliver you to Anza-Borrego
MILKY WAY BEFORE DAWN at Joshua afield, Death Valley National Park outdoes Desert State Park. Capital of desert botanica,
Tree National Park, top; BNP Paribas them all for its kaleidoscopic physical this 500,000-acre park is ablaze with fiery
Open, above; Marilyn Monroe statue in
beauty. red poppies and other wildflowers.
Palm Springs, opposite.
A 30-minute drive northeast from Palm
Active Adventures Springs, Joshua Tree National Park spans
You might be forgiven for thinking that a 1,240 square miles of Mojave and lower
desert offers little to do and that it’s just too Colorado deserts and protects one of the
INSIDER’S darn hot to do it in any event. Wrong on most spectacular desert regions in North
» TIP both counts! The region is replete with America. Popular with rock climbers, its
exciting recreational activities. Fabulous dramatic landscapes are made surreal by
Wildlife abounds in the desert,
winter weather spells Nirvana for hikers, the “Joshua tree” species of yucca, with
but for the most part you’d never
rock-climbers, cyclists and other out- strange, arm-like branches.
know it—critters hide by day,
doorsy folk. From Joshua Tree, historic Route 66
especially in summer. It’s easy to
Let’s start with golf. There’s no more unfurls past Mojave National Preserve,
get close to desert flora and fauna
quintessential image of the Palm Springs where the Kelso Dunes tower almost 1,000
at LIVING DESERT ZOO & PARK,
region than an emerald greensward feet above the desert floor. They’re known
which displays animals from arid
environments around the world.
studded by palms and framed by boulder- as the “singing dunes” because they emit a

Local denizens include bighorn strewn mountains gloriously snowcapped buzz or rumble when sand slides down the
sheep, rattlesnakes and coyotes. in winter. In fact, the Coachella Valley has dune-face. Nearby, 32 ancient volcanic
livingdesert.org earned the distinction of “Golf Capital of cones stud Cinder Cones National Natural
the World,” with more golf courses than Landmark—a gateway to the stand-out

178 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
draw of the northern Mojave: Death Valley
National Park. The highest ground temper-
DRIVE
ature ever recorded on earth was here, at
» TOUR
Badwater, a sunken trough that reaches 282
feet below sea level. Yet Death Valley is
Start in downtown PALM SPRINGS
rimmed by 11,000-foot mountains. Winter
and follow Highway 111 southeast to
months are deliciously temperate, when
PALM DESERT, then head into the
tourists flock to marvel at chromatic
San Jacinto Mountains along steep,
canyons and sun-bleached salt pans. Well-
twisting Highway 74 to the
paved roads lace the park, while dirt roads
COACHELLA VALLEY VISTA POINT
open up a world of extreme adventure for April, be there or be square for the
for a sensational view. Retrace your
visitors with suitable vehicles. Coachella Music Festival, hosted in the route to Highway 111 and continue
warm open air of neighboring Indio. east. Turn south onto Highway 86
Cultural Connections Almost 200 performers rock half a million past date palms and vineyards and
Culture vultures thrill to find the desert is attendees; unannounced surprise per- the Salton Sea to SALTON CITY, then
far from dry. The Native American Agua formances have included Beyoncé, Paul head west along Highway 522
Caliente occupied the Palm Springs region McCartney and Gwen Stefani. through the BORREGO BADLANDS
long before Europeans arrived. Their proud Higher culture? Palm Desert’s McCallum to the artists’ community of BOR-
legacy is on show at the Agua Caliente Cul- Theater resounds to laughter and cheers REGO SPRINGS. Explore the
tural Museum in downtown Palm Springs. of delight with a lineup that can range fantastical metal sculptures in GAL-
History buffs also delight in the Palm from Itzhak Perlman and The Vienna Boys LETA MEADOWS, then lace up your
Springs Air Museum, replete with World Choir to The Nutcracker ballet and the hiking boots to explore cactus-
War II-era warplanes from a P-51 Mustang Peking Acrobats. studded ANZA-BORREGO DESERT
to a B-17 Flying Fortress. Since the valley’s Cahuilla Indian terri- STATE PARK.
The monied elite that pours into Palm tory is a sovereign nation, it’s exempt from
Springs for the winter is a major patron of California’s state ban on gambling. Try PALM SPRINGS

the arts. Hollywood star and long-time your hand with Lady Luck at any of half a PALM
DESERT
resident Kirk Douglas was a major donor dozen casinos. And shopaholics are in for
COACHELLA VALLEY
to the Palm Springs Art Museum, one of a treat: Art galleries, haute couturiers, and VISTA POINT

California’s top regional art venues—its boutique stores specializing in retro mod-
Plein Art, MesoAmerican, and Contempo- ernist décor offer a dash of retail therapy
rary Glass collections are outstanding. between your spa treatments.
And any sojourn through Palm Springs is
a magical mystery tour of “art-chitecture,” Family Fun
thanks to the city’s stock of more than two Kids love the desert, which offers heaps of BORREGO
GALLETA BADLANDS
MEADOWS
thousand midcentury Modernist homes. family fun, including old ghost towns such as SALTON CITY
ANZA-BORREGO
DESERT STATE PARK
Many of the finest exemplars of Mod- Pioneertown and Randsburg. Another favorite VISITOR CENTER
BORREGO
SPRINGS
ernism are boutique hotels, and almost all is the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens, exhibiting
have played host to the Hollywood A-list. nearly 400 species of animals, from aardvark
“Sinatra slept here” and “This was Angela to zebra. With luck you might even spot eye view of the Coachella Valley. Then
Jolie’s room” is no idle chatter. bighorn sheep in the wild on a Desert Adven- delight the kids, and yourself, with a ten-
tures eco-tour by Jeep. Even camels add to the minute jaunt to Alaska (at least
Festivals to Casinos fun at Indio’s Riverside County Fair & metaphorically) aboard the Palm Springs
Palm Springs has festivals to please National Date Festival in February. Aerial Tramway. It ascends through four
everyone. In March, the world-class Indian In summer, beat the heat splashing life zones to the mountaintop station,
Wells Tennis Garden fills to overflowing about at Knott’s Soak City. Or take to the air where the air is 30 degrees cooler than it is
for the annual BNP Paribas Open. And in with Fantasy Balloon Flights for a bird’s- in the desert below.

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 179
INLAND EMPIRE
This often-overlooked region offers highlights of California, from deserts
to soaring mountain ranges and abundant vineyards and orchards

BY LENORE GREINER

TOP CITIES

W
ithin the Inland Empire’s vast 5,000 square miles, the scenery
Big Bear Lake, Lake Arrowhead, Temecula, Ontario,
and historic sites deftly capture quintessential California, from
San Bernardino, Riverside
Spanish and Native American history to the era of stagecoaches

CREATIVE JEN DESIGNS/SHUTTERSTOCK. OPPOSITE: LOWE LLAGUNO/SHUTTERSTOCK; STEVE MINKLER/SHUTTERSTOCK.


INTERNATIONAL GATEWAY and the Golden Age of traveling Route 66. The diverse landscape reflects
Ontario International Airport (ONT), 35 miles (56 km) Golden State extremes: snow-capped granite peaks of the San Bernardino
east of downtown Los Angeles, 23 miles (37 km) west
Mountains to the north and the San Jacinto range to the east fast descend
of San Bernardino, 16 miles (26 km) west of Riverside
into arid high deserts and, finally, to verdant vineyards and groves.
TOURISM WEBSITES In the birthplace of California’s citrus industry, discover tranquil, scenic
bigbear.com beauty among vineyards, hiking paths or ski runs. Or partake in distinctly
lakearrowhead.net
Californian pursuits: wine tasting, escaping to a quiet golf resort, or
temeculacvb.com
riversidecvb.com soaking in steamy hot springs. And with fewer crowds and lower prices
than Lake Tahoe and Napa Valley, the Inland Empire offers the same thrills
POPULATION and diversions with less fuss.
2.1 million

The Great Outdoors


In the San Bernardino Mountains’ fresh alpine air, vacationers head to two
popular lakes. At Big Bear Lake, outdoor enthusiasts enjoy year-round recre-
ation, from summer watersports to winter’s alpine sports at Big Bear
Mountain and Snow Summit for excellent skiing and snowboarding. Sum-
mertime watersports lovers will find abundant fishing, boating, kayaking
and even parasailing on Big Bear Lake. Lake Arrowhead offers hiking, horse-
back riding, biking and stream fishing. Or wander in the natural beauty of
INLAND the Swiss Chalet-style alpine village of Lake Arrowhead with charming
EMPIRE
shops and year-round ice skating. Or simply stargaze, watch the autumn
leaves turn or the winter snowflakes fall.

180 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
TREASURE ISLAND AND BOULDER BAY at Big Bear Lake, below; tour boat on MUST
Lake Arrowhead, bottom right; vineyard in Temecula, opposite.
» SEE,
DO

» Saddle Up Wine Tours Take a scenic ride


on horseback through the vineyards with stops for
tastings at one, two or three wineries of Temecula’s
wine country.
› saddleupwinetours.com

» March Field Air Museum Encounter the


world’s fastest airplane, the SR-71 Blackbird, and
the massive B-52 Stratofortress among the 70 air-
craft on display. More than 30,000 artifacts
encompass U.S. aviation history, from World War I
until the era of space exploration.
› marchfield.org

» San Bernardino National Forest Jutting


skyward from the Riverside valley floor, this
660,000-acre national forest mountain range reaches
as high as the 11,502-foot Mount San Gorgonio.
› fs.usda.gov/sbnf

» Pechanga Resort & Casino The Luiseno


Indians’ tribal casino, California’s largest, offers a
SPECIAL huge concert venue, a 200,000-square-foot

» EVENTS 2016 gaming floor, all night poker and a AAA Four Dia-
mond resort hotel.
› pechanga.com
TEMECULA ROD RUN Roaring hot rods descend upon Old Town Temecula.
March 4-5 rodruntemecula.com » Mission Inn Hotel & Spa Since 1902, this
National Historic Landmark has hosted eight presi-
Playing since 1926, the RAMONA OUTDOOR PLAY, a tragic romance about the dents and countless movie stars in a rambling
Ponca Indians, is America’s longest running drama and California’s Official Outdoor Play. blend of Mission Revival, Moorish and Oriental
April 16-17, 23-24, 30 & May 1 ramonabowl.com architecture, and Louis Comfort Tiffany mosaics.
› missioninn.com
At the KORONEBURG OLD WORLD RENAISSANCE FESTIVAL a 1450-1600 European
village comes alive in Southern California’s only permanent renaissance hamlet inside
the 120-acre woods of Riverview Park in Corona. Weekends, May 7-June 19 renaissanceinfo.com

TEMECULA VALLEY BALLOON & WINE FESTIVAL features hot-air balloon rides,
wine and craft beer tastings, gourmet food, live music and more on Lake Skinner.
May 20-22 tvbwf.com

LAKE ARROWHEAD ANNUAL ANTIQUE & CLASSIC WOODEN BOAT SHOW


showcases rare antique and classic wooden boats in Lake Arrowhead Village.
June 11-12 lakearrowhead.net

BIG BEAR LAKE & LAKE ARROWHEAD VILLAGE OKTOBERFESTS feature bands,
beer and brats at a 7,000-foot elevation. Weekends, Sept. 10-Oct. 29
bigbear.com, lakearrowhead.net

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 181
WELCOME SIGN to the town of Big Bear
Lake, below; Mark Knopfler concert at
DRIVE Pechanga Casino, Temecula, below left.
» TOUR
RIM OF THE WORLD SCENIC North of Temecula, play in the mud or
BYWAY: This 107-mile scenic soak in the soothing mineral waters of the
drive begins on State Highway 150-year-old Glen Ivy Hot Springs, dating
138 just west of I-15 at the from early stagecoach days. For excitement,
MORMON ROCK FIRE spend an evening at the gaming tables at
STATION. Travel east on 138 to the Pechanga Casino. Or soar in a hot air
the CAJON PASS OVERLOOK
balloon over Temecula Valley’s 35,000-acre
for breathtaking views, then
wine country, dotted with B&Bs and luxury
east to SILVERWOOD LAKE
resorts amid endless vineyards. Afterwards,
and the Mojave River basin. 138 merges with 18 along the rim of the San
relax with a glass of local wine on a winery
Bernardino forest and provides sweeping vistas of San Bernardino,
portico or play golf in this quiet oasis of the
Redlands and the Los Angeles Basin. At BIG BEAR LAKE DAM, follow the
California good life.
road around Big Bear Lake to MILL CREEK RANGER STATION. This tour
can be done in four hours.
Heritage & Culture
Head into Riverside to discover a wealth of
California history. Here, the state’s first and
oldest orange tree, planted in 1873, still
stands on Magnolia Avenue where Cali-
fornia’s multi-million-dollar citrus industry
began. Since 1880, the Mission Inn has
hosted U.S. presidents and delighted trav-
elers with a Hearst Castle-like eclectic mix of
Spanish and Moorish architecture, adorned
with priceless Italian and Spanish treasures.
The San Bernardino Museum explores
local history by exhibiting a covered
wagon that crossed the Mojave Desert

SD DIRK/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR; PAUL MATTHEW PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK


INSIDER’S from Salt Lake City and a Wells Fargo

» TIP stagecoach. The Hall of Anthropology


showcases local native cultures, the

Since 1949, drivers on historic Mojave, Serrano and Gabrielino. Within


Route 66 checked into this icon the citrus groves surrounding the
of roadside Americana, the museum, the Zimmerman Citrus Kiosk
WIGWAM MOTEL, once encircled explores the area’s citrus heritage.
by San Bernardino orange City & Town
groves. One of only three Food and wine fans can stroll through Family Fun
remaining, remodeled, 30-foot- Old Town Temecula’s historic district of The fun begins with rides on the trains and
tall, free-standing concrete 1890s buildings while wine tasting and trolleys of the Orange Empire Railway
tepees surround a kidney- sampling local fare in a friendly, Old Museum. Tom’s Farms offers kids an 1800s
shaped swimming pool and West ambience. Or visit Redlands, the steam train, a carousel, a real gem mine and
have WiFi and air-conditioning. “City of Beautiful Homes,” and its opu- pony rides. Take a fast, cool water ride on
wigwammotel.com lent Victorians and Arts and Crafts style the twisting curves of the Alpine Slide in the
homes of yesteryear. Magic Mountain Recreation Area.

182 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
2016 TRAVEL GUIDE TO
CALIFORNIA RESOURCES
» GENERAL
INFORMATION
» CALIFORNIA WELCOME CENTERS

THERE ARE SEVENTEEN OFFICIAL state Welcome Central Valley


POPULATION: 38,042,000
Centers in 10 of the state’s tourism regions. Each 710 W. 16th Street, Suite A
AREA: 158,693 square miles. It is approx- center is listed by the region in which it is located. Merced 209-724-8104
imately 770 miles long from the Mexican For more information, go to VisitCWC.com.
border to the Oregon border, and 250 San Francisco Bay Area
miles wide from the Pacific Ocean to the Pier 39, Building B, Second Level, Unit B12
Nevada and Arizona borders. San Diego County San Francisco 415-981-1280
928 North Coast Highway
TIME: California is in the Pacific Time Oceanside 1-800-350-7873 Gold Country
Zone (GMT minus 8 hours). The state 760-721-1101 1103 High Street, Suite 150
observes daylight saving time. Auburn 530-887-2111
5005 Willow Road, Suite 110
TAXES: The state sales tax is 7.5%. Local
Alpine 619-445-0180 2085 Vine Street, Suite 105
taxes may be as much as an additional 1%.
El Dorado Hills 916-358-3700
DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE: For local Desert Region
numbers, dial 411; long-distance, 2796 Tanger Way, Suite 100 High Sierra
1 plus area code plus 555-1212; toll-free, Barstow 760-253-4782 10065 Donner Pass Road
1-800-555-1212. Truckee 530-587-8808
56711 29 Palms Highway
EMERGENCY ASSISTANCE: Call 911 Yucca Valley 760-365-5464 2510 Main Street
toll free from any public telephone to Mammoth Lakes 760-924-5500
obtain police, fire or medical assistance. Orange County
LIQUOR LAWS: Alcohol is sold throughout 6601 Beach Blvd. North Coast
California. Legal drinking age is 21. Buena Park 1635 Heindon Road
1-800-541-3953 Arcata 707-822-3619
SMOKING LAWS: You must be 18 to
purchase tobacco products. Smoking is Central Coast 9 Fourth Street
prohibited in all public buildings and 333 Five Cities Drive, Suite 100 Santa Rosa 1-800-404-7673
enclosed spaces throughout California. Pismo Beach 805-773-7924
Many cities in California have passed Shasta/Cascade
ordinances prohibiting smoking in all 1213 North Davis Road 1699 Highway 273
public places. It is even illegal to smoke Salinas 831-757-8687 Anderson 530-365-1180
on certain beaches in Southern
California—watch for signs. 2786 Seaglass Way, Space 5105 2 California 96
Oxnard 805-988-0717 Yreka 530-475-3814

QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE TO TRAVEL

GENERAL TRAVEL FESTIVALS SENIOR TRAVEL


visitcalifornia.com californiafairsandfestivals.com roadscholar.org
BEACHES festivals.com aarp.org
beachcalifornia.com FISHING SKI CONDITIONS
BORDER SERVICES wildlife.ca.gov onthesnow.com
cbp.gov fishingnetwork.net SOLO TRAVEL
BUS TRAVEL FREQUENT FLYER PROGRAMS cstn.org
greyhound.com frequentflier.com STUDENT TRAVEL
CALIFORNIA STATE GOVERNMENT webflyer.com statravel.com
ca.gov GAY & LESBIAN TRAVEL SPORTS TRAVEL
CALIFORNIA NATIONAL PARKS, gaytravel.com sportstravel.com
NATIONAL FORESTS & PUBLIC LANDS gogaycalifornia.com TRANSPORTATION REGULATIONS
nps.gov/state/ca GOLF dmv.ca.gov
fs.fed.us/r5/ca.blm.gov golfcalifornia.com TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN
CALIFORNIA STATE PARKS golflink.com travelforkids.com/Funtodo/California/california.htm
parks.ca.gov HUNTING familyvacationcritic.com
COOKING SCHOOLS wildlife.ca.gov TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
epitourean.com/Destination/8/California.aspx RAIL TRAVEL accessnca.org/resources
ECO, ADVENTURE, OUTDOOR amtrak.com WEATHER CONDITIONS
alopexadventures.com ROAD CONDITIONS wunderground.com
infohub.com dot.ca.gov/cgi-bin/roads.cgi WOMEN TRAVELERS
adventurewomen.com
journeywoman.com

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 183
RESOURCES

» CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAUS

Amador County Chamber of Commerce Long Beach Convention & Visitors Bureau San Francisco Travel Association
& Visitors Bureau 1-800-452-7829 415-391-2000
209-223-0350 visitlongbeach.com sanfrancisco.travel
amadorcountychamber.com
Los Angeles Convention & Visitors Bureau San Jose Convention & Visitors Bureau
Anaheim/Orange County Visitor and Conven- 1-800-228-2452 1-800-726-5673
tion Bureau discoverlosangeles.com sanjose.org
1-855-405-5020
anaheimoc.org Mammoth Lakes Tourism San Luis Obispo County Tourism Information
1-888-GO-MAMMOTH 805-541-8000
Bakersfield Convention & Visitors Bureau visitmammoth.com visitsanluisobispocounty.com
1-866-425-7353
visitbakersfield.com Marin County Convention & Visitors Bureau San Mateo County Convention
415-925-2060 & Visitors Bureau
Berkeley Convention & Visitors Bureau visitmarin.org 1-800-288-4748
1-800-847-4823 smccvb.com
visitberkeley.com Marina del Rey Convention & Visitors Bureau
310-305-9545 Santa Barbara Conference & Visitors Bureau
Beverly Hills Visitors Bureau visitmarinadelrey.com 805-966-9222
1-800-345-2210 santabarbaraca.com
lovebeverlyhills.com Mendocino County
310-305-9545; 1-866-466-3636 Santa Clara Convention & Visitors Bureau
Calaveras Visitors Bureau visitmendocino.com 1-800-272-6822
1-800-225-3764 santaclara.org
visitcalaveras.org Modesto Convention & Visitors Bureau
1-888-640-8467 Santa Cruz County Conference
Central Valley Tourism Association visitmodesto.com & Visitors Council
visitcentralvalley.com 1-800-833-3494
Monterey County Convention & Visitors Bureau santacruzca.org
Costa Mesa Conference & Visitor Bureau 1-888-221-1010
1-888-588-9417 seemonterey.com Santa Monica Convention & Visitors Bureau
travelcostamesa.com 1-800-544-5319
Napa Valley Destination Council santamonica.com
Crescent City/Del Norte County Chamber 707-251-5895
of Commerce legendarynapavalley.com Solvang Conference & Visitors Bureau
1-800-343-8300 805-688-6144
exploredelnorte.com Newport Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau solvangusa.com
1-888-5-NEWPORT
El Dorado County Visitors Authority visitnewportbeach.com Sonoma County Tourism Bureau
1-800-457-6279 707-522- 5800
visit-eldorado.com North Lake Tahoe Visitors & Convention Bureau sonomacounty.com
1-888-434-1262
gotahoenorth.com Stockton Convention & Visitors Bureau
Eureka/Humboldt County Convention 1-877-778-6258
and Visitors Bureau Oakdale Tourism & Visitors Bureau celebratestockton.com
1-800-346-3482 209-345-9264
redwoods.info visitoakdale.com Temecula Valley Convention & Visitors Bureau
1-888-363-2852
Fairfield Tourism Association Oakland Convention & Visitors Bureau temeculacvb.com
707-399-2445 510-839-9000
visitfairfieldca.com visitoakland.org Tri-Valley Convention & Visitors Bureau
925-846-8910
Fresno City and County Convention Palm Desert Visitors Center visittrivalley.com
& Visitors Bureau 1-800-873-2428
1-800-788-0836 palm-desert.org Tuolumne County Visitors Bureau
playfresno.org 1-800-446-1333
Palm Springs Desert Resorts Convention tcvb.com
Gilroy Visitors Bureau & Visitors Authority
408-842-1625 1-800-967-3767 Vacaville Conference & Visitors Bureau
gilroywelcomecenter.org visitgreaterpalmsprings.com 707-450-0500
visitvacaville.com
Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce Pasadena Convention & Visitors Authority
& Visitors Bureau 1-800-307-7977 Vallejo Convention & Visitors Bureau
707-433-6935 visitpasadena.com 707- 642-3653
healdsburg.com visitvallejo.com
Pismo Beach Conference & Visitors Bureau
Huntington Beach Visitors Bureau 805-773-4657 Ventura Visitors & Convention Bureau
1-800-729-6232 classiccalifornia.com 805-648-2075
surfcityusa.com visitventuraca.com
Redding Convention & Visitors Bureau
Kern County Board of Trade and Film Commission 1-800-874-7562 West Hollywood Convention & Visitors Bureau
661-868-5376 visitredding.com 1-800-368-6020
visitkern.com visitwesthollywood.com
Redondo Beach Chamber of Commerce
Laguna Beach Visitors Bureau & Visitors Bureau Yolo County Visitors Bureau
949-497-9229 310-376-6911 530-297-1900
visitlagunabeach.com visitredondo.com yolocvb.org
Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority Sacramento Convention & Visitors Bureau Yosemite Mariposa County Visitors Bureau
530-544-541-5255 1-800-292-2334 209-742-4567
tahoesouth.com discovergold.org yosemiteexperience.com
Lodi Conference & Visitors Bureau San Diego Convention & Visitors Bureau Yosemite Sierra Visitors Bureau
209-365-1195 619-232-3101 559-683-4636
visitlodi.com sandiego.org yosemitethisyear.com

184 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
» HOLIDAYS
January 1 New Year’s Day September 5 Labor Day
January 18 Martin Luther King Jr.’s Birthday October 10 Columbus Day
February 15 Presidents’ Birthdays November 11 Veterans Day
March 31 César Chávez Day November 24 Thanksgiving Day
May 30 Memorial Day December 25 Christmas Day
July 4 Independence Day

» CLIMATE/TEMPERATURES

Average temperatures reflect those of a city centrally located in the region. Temperatures at the coast are often 5 or more degrees cooler than inland tem-
peratures because of coastal breezes and fog, and farther inland, temperatures are often significantly warmer than central locations at the same elevation.
Cities for average temperatures: San Diego County: San Diego; Desert: Palm Springs; Orange County: Orange; Inland Empire: San Bernardino; Los Angeles
County: Los Angeles; Central Coast: San Luis Obispo; Central Valley: Merced; San Francisco Bay Area: San Francisco; Gold Country: Sacramento; High Sierra:
Truckee; North Coast: Arcata; Shasta Cascade: Redding
Source: Weatherbase.com
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC

SAN DIEGO F° 49/65 51/65 53/66 56/68 59/69 62/71 65/75 67/76 65/76 61/73 54/69 48/65
COUNTY C° 9/18 10/18 12/19 13/20 15/20 17/22 19/24 19/25 18/24 16/23 12/21 9/18

F° 46/69 48/73 53/79 57/85 65/93 71/102 77/107 78/106 73/100 62/89 52/77 44/67
DESERTS C° 8/21 9/23 12/26 14/29 18/34 22/34 25/42 25/41 23/38 17/32 11/25 7/20

ORANGE F° 45/65 46/67 47/67 50/71 54/72 57/77 61/82 62/83 60/82 56/77 50/71 46/66
COUNTY C° 7/18 7/19 8/19 10/21 12/22 13/25 16/27 16/28 15/27 13/25 10/21 7/18

INLAND F° 37/62 39/66 41/68 46/71 50/77 53/84 60/93 60/93 57/89 50/80 42/71 37/64
EMPIRE C° 3/17 4/19 5/20 8/22 10/25 12/29 16/34 16/34 14/32 10/27 6/22 3/18

LOS ANGELES F° 48/65 49/66 50/68 53/70 56/73 58/76 62/82 63/82 61/81 58/77 53/73 50/68
COUNTY C° 8/18 9/18 10/20 11/21 13/22 14/24 16/27 17/27 16/27 14/25 11/22 10/20

CENTRAL F° 41/64 42/64 44/65 45/69 48/72 51/75 54/77 55/80 54/79 50/76 44/70 40/65
COAST C° 5/18 6/18 7/19 7/20 9/22 11/24 12/25 13/26 12/26 10/24 7/21 4/18

CENTRAL F° 38/53 41/59 43/64 47/72 53/80 58/88 63/94 62/92 58/87 51/77 43/63 38/53
VALLEY C° 3/11 5/15 6/17 8/22 11/26 14/31 17/34 16/33 14/30 10/25 6/17 3/11

SAN FRANCISCO F° 46/56 48/60 49/61 50/63 51/64 53/66 54/66 54/66 56/70 55/69 51/64 47/57
BAY AREA C° 7/13 8/15 9/16 10/17 10/17 11/18 12/18 12/18 13/21 12/20 10/17 8/13

GOLD F° 38/53 41/60 43/64 46/71 50/80 55/87 58/93 58/91 56/88 50/78 43/64 38/53
COUNTRY C° 3/11 5/15 6/17 7/21 10/26 12/30 14/33 14/32 13/31 10/25 6/17 3/11

HIGH F° 14/39 17/43 21/46 26/54 31/63 37/72 42/82 40/81 36/74 29/64 22/49 16/41
SIERRA C° -9/3 -8/6 -6/7 -3/11 0/17 2/22 5/27 4/27 2/23 -1/17 -5/9 -8/4

NORTH F° 42/53 42/54 42/54 44/55 48/57 51/60 52/60 52/61 51/62 48/60 45/57 43/55
COAST C° 5/11 5/12 5/12 6/12 8/13 10/15 11/15 11/16 10/16 8/15 7/13 6/12

SHASTA F° 36/55 38/61 43/6 48/73 53/81 60/89 66/98 62/97 57/91 50/81 40/65 35/55
CASCADE C° 2/12 3/16 6/18 8/22 11/27 15/31 18/36 16/36 13/32 10/27 4/18 1/12

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 185
RESOURCES
MEDICAL CARE &
» TRAVEL INSURANCE

Visitor Medical Insurance plans are designed to cover DRIVING REGULATIONS


medical expenses resulting from a sudden illness or
injury while visiting the USA or other countries.
Typically, visitor insurance plans offer benefits to cover LICENSE/DOCUMENTATION: You must have a valid driver’s license from a U.S. state or foreign
inpatient hospital, outpatient doctor ojjfice visits, country. Minimum driving age is 16. For more information about California driver’s license regu-
surgery and prescription drug expenses. lations, call 1-800-777-0133.

Go One Global Corporation SEATBELT: By law, everyone in a vehicle must wear a seatbelt. Children under the age of eight
1-800-257-7718 g1g.com (8) must be secured in a car seat or booster seat in the back seat. Infants should stay in rear-
Distributor of online travel and international medical facing seats until they weigh at least 20 pounds, can pull themselves up to stand, or reach one
insurance products and services. year of age.

Insubuy 1-866-467-8289 insubuy.com HELMETS: Motorcycle helmets must be worn by all motorcycle riders, as well as their passengers.
Provides a variety of short—term medical insurance Bicycle riders under the age of 18 must wear helmets.
for foreigners visiting the USA.
SPEED LIMITS: These are posted in miles-per-hour (mph). Generally, the speed limit on multi-
International Services, Inc. lane freeways is 65 mph. On two-lane highways it is usually 55 mph. The speed limit on city streets
1-877-593-5403 nriol.net is usually 25-35 mph. In residential areas, near schools and in areas with heavy foot traffic, the
Financial services company with focus on providing speed limit is almost always 25 mph.
quality insurance for U.S. residents, travel
insurance for tourists, and medical insurance for CARPOOL LANES: Major urban areas have carpool lanes (or “diamond lanes”) identified by small
international students. black-and-white signs and by diamonds painted on the roadway. To drive in a carpool lane, you
must usually have two people (including the driver) in the car. Some carpool lanes in the San Fran-
Multichoice Insurance Services cisco Bay Area require three people (including the driver).
1-855-444-6247 insurancemultichoice.com
Fast, simple, online (secured) and effective way to CELL PHONES: The Wireless Communications Device Law makes it an infraction to write, send
fulfill travel insurance needs. or read text-based communication on an electronic wireless communications device, such as a
cell phone, while driving a motor vehicle. Drivers must also use a hands-free device when speaking
Patriot America 1-877-778-4562 on a cell phone.
patriotamericainsurance.net
Worldwide travel medical insurance for non-U.S. ACCIDENTS: You must report accidents to the California Department of Motor Vehicles if injury
citizens traveling outside of their citizenship country. or death occurs, or if damage exceeds $750.

Visitors Care 1-877-593-5403 DRINKING AND DRIVING: It is illegal to drive under the influence of alcohol (blood alcohol
visitorscareinsurance.net concentration of .08% or higher).
Low Cost Travel Medical Insurance for all non-US
citizens traveling to the United States. ROAD CONDITIONS: The California Department of Transportation maintains a free 24-hour hot-
line for information at 1-800-427-7623. In the San Francisco Bay Area, dial 511 on your phone to
USA-Assist Worldwide Protect get up-to-the-minute transportation information.
1-877-539-8619 usa-assist.com
Provides travel insurance, assistance and protection OTHER: Roundabouts are uncommon in California. Most intersections are either signed by traffic
to all kinds of travelers, including groups and lights or by stop signs. Unless signed otherwise, it is legal to make a right turn on a red light after
business travelers worldwide. you come to a complete stop.

» RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED

RESOURCES FOR THE DISABLED ACCESS NORT- CAR RENTAL: Avis Rent a Car has an “Avis Access” permanent disability. The Golden Access Passport is
HERN CALIFORNIA: A non-profit organization program that offers a dedicated 24-hour toll-free available at any National Park Service Headquarters.
dedicated to providing increased opportunities and number (1-888-879-4273) for customers with special
improving access to travel and outdoor recreation travel needs; special car features such as swivel STATE PARKS: The California Department of Parks
for people with disabilities throughout Northern seats, spinner knobs and hand controls; and acces- and Recreation offers a Disabled Discount Pass
California. Website (accessnca.org) has a large sible bus service. which provides a 50 percent discount for use of all
resource section with lodging, parks, transportation, basic facilities (including day use parking, camping
adaptive recreation and more. HEARING IMPAIRED ASSISTANCE: Dial 711 for and boat/day use parking fees) at any unit of the
TDD-to-voice or voice-to-TDD relays. California State Park System operated by the State
ACCESSIBLE SAN DIEGO: This is a non-profit Department of Parks and Recreation. Cost is $3.50
information center for travelers with disabilities in LOS ANGELES HANDICAPPED TOURIST ACCES- and is available online (parks.ca.gov) or by calling 1-
San Diego County. Information available via their SIBILITY GUIDE: Available online at latourist.com. 800-777-0369.
website (access-sandiego.org) and they publish an Includes accessible tourist attractions, hiking trails,
annual guide available via download or hard copy. outdoor activities, transportation and more. TRAIN TRAVEL: All rail services in California are
wheelchair accessible. In addition, Amtrak offers a
NATIONAL PARKS: Free access to national parks 15% discount to travelers with disabilities (1-800-
is available to U.S. citizens and residents who have a 872-7245 or amtrak.com).

186 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
» AIR DISTANCES BETWEEN SELECTED CITIES
SAN DIEGO PALM SPRINGS LOS ANGELES SAN JOSE SAN FRANCISCO SACRAMENTO
(SAN) (PSP) (LAX) (SJC) (SFO) (SMF)

SAN DIEGO mile/km/h — 85/137/<1 109/175/<1 417/671/1 437/703/1 480/772/1

LOS ANGELES mile/km/h 109/175/<1 110/176/<1 — 308/495/1 327/527/1 373/600/1

SAN FRANCISCO mile/km/h 437/703/1 410/660/1 327/527/1 20/32/<1 — 84/135/<1

NEW YORK mile/km/h 2440/3928/5 2373/3819/5 2469/3974/5 2562/4124/5 2570/4136/5 2514/4046/5

MIAMI mile/km/h 2267/3649/5 2232/3593/4 2432/3769/5 2559/4118/5 2574/4142/5 2552/4107/5

CHICAGO mile/km/h 1723/2773/3 1652/2658/3 1744/2807/3 1829/2944/4 1837/2956/4 1781/2867/4

DENVER mile/km/h 853/1373/2 776/1249/2 862/1387/2 948/1526/2 957/1541/2 910/1464/2

SEATTLE mile/km/h 1050/1690/2 987/1589/2 954/1535/2 696/1121/2 682/1097/2 605/974/2

TORONTO mile/km/h 2157/3472/5 2085/3355/5 2176/3501/5 2245/3612/5 2251/3622/5 2191/3526/4

VANCOUVER mile/km/h 1177/1894/2 1114/1793/2 1080/1739/2 819/1318/2 804/1293/2 729/1173/2

h = flight time rounded to nearest number of hours; <1 = less than 1 hour

» DRIVING DISTANCES
SAN PALM LOS SANTA SAN SAN
DIEGO SPRINGS ANGELES BARBARA MONTEREY JOSE FRANCISCO SACRAMENTO YOSEMITE LAKE TAHOE REDDING

SAN DIEGO mile/km — 126/203 127/204 218/351 450/724 468/753 514/827 509/819 482/776 604/972 664/1069

PALM
mile/km 126/203 — 114/183 204/328 453/729 447/719 487/784 490/789 468/753 591/951 651/1048
SPRINGS

LOS
mile/km 127/204 114/183 — 91/146 327/526 347/558 387/623 388/624 359/578 484/779 544/875
ANGELES

SANTA
mile/km 218/351 204/328 91/146 — 242/389 286/460 327/526 379/610 398/641 500/805 535/861
BARBARA

MONTEREY mile/km 450/724 453/729 327/526 242/389 — 69/111 114/183 188/303 203/327 284/457 316/509

SAN
mile/km 514/827 487/784 387/623 327/526 114/183 44/71 — 90/145 182/293 185/298 217/349
FRANCISCO

YOSEMITE mile/km 482/776 468/753 359/578 398/641 203/327 174/280 182/293 196/315 — 198/319 247/397

LAKE TAHOE mile/km 604/972 591/951 484/779 500/805 284/457 214/344 185/298 102/164 198/319 — 256/412

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 187
RESOURCES
» NATIONAL PARKS & HISTORIC SITES

Arranged north to south. Golden Gate National Recreation Area, San Francisco Manzanar National Historic Site, Independence
One of the world’s largest urban parks, the GGNRA Manzanar served as a relocation center for
Lava Beds National Monument, Tulelake encompasses venues from San Mateo to Marin Japanese citizens during WWII. This internment
Rugged landscape dotted with diverse volcanic counties and includes such sites as Alcatraz, Sutro camp is now a museum that illustrates the land’s
features. Hiking, camping. Baths, Fort Funston, Crissy Field, Muir Woods and past uses. Tours.
nps.gov/labe more. Hiking, cycling, camping, water sports, tours. nps.gov/manz
nps.gov/goga
Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, Whiskeytown Pinnacles National Park, Paicines
Mountain lake recreation area. Hiking, mountain Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site, Danville These massive monoliths, spires, sheer-walled canyons
biking, camping, water sports. The home of the famed American writer is now a and talus passages are the remains of an ancient
nps.gov/whis museum, and can be visited by reservation only. volcano. Hiking, camping, caving, backpacking, tours.
Tours. nps.gov/euon nps.gov/pinn
Redwood National and State Parks,
Del Norte & Humboldt counties Port Chicago Naval Magazine Death Valley National Park, Death Valley
An ancient coast redwood ecosystem that is National Memorial, Concord Three million acres of mountains and desert terrain,
home to the world’s tallest trees. Park is This memorial to the men and women who lost their Death Valley is also home to abandoned mines,
comprised of 112,000 acres of forests, rivers and lives loading munitions during WWII is located Scotty’s Castle, hiking trails and large stands of
wild coastline. Hiking, camping. inside the Concord Naval Weapons Station. Tours. Joshua Trees. Hiking, camping, tours.
nps.gov/redw nps.gov/poch nps.gov/deva

Lassen Volcanic National Park, Mineral Rosie the Riveter WWII Home Front Mojave National Preserve, Barstow
Large group of volcanic domes set in the Cascade National Historical Park, Richmond Another desert wilderness covering 1.6 million
Mountains. Hiking, camping, geothermal pools. One of the newest national parks, this park honors acres, the Mojave is home to sand dunes, volcanic
nps.gov/lavo the men and women who worked behind the scenes cinder cones, Joshua Tree forests and carpets of
during WWII. Includes the SS Red Oak Victory Ship, wildflowers. Hiking, camping, hunting, tours.
Point Reyes National Seashore, Point Reyes which is accessible to visitors. Tours. nps.gov/moja
Rare undeveloped California coastline hosting myriad nps.gov/rori
plant, animal and marine life. Hiking, mountain Santa Monica Mountains National
biking, bird and whale watching. John Muir National Historic Site, Martinez Recreation Area, Thousand Oaks
nps.gov/pore John Muir is considered the father of the National This park encompasses multiple mountains, parks
Park Service. His home and Mt. Wanda are both part and open space preserves and is one of the best
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley of this historic site. Hiking, tours. examples of a Mediterranean climate ecosystem in
Set just outside San Francisco, this old-growth forest nps.gov/jomu the world. Hiking, camping, tours.
leads down to Muir Beach. Hiking only. nps.gov/samo
nps.gov/muwo Devils Postpile National Monument, Mammoth Lakes
Devils Postpile formation is a geologic wonder Channel Islands National Park, Ventura
Alcatraz Island, San Francisco towering 60 feet high and one of the world’s finest This park is made up of a chain of five islands
The first lighthouse and fort on the West Coast that examples of columnar basalt. The area also boasts located off the Southern California coast and is also
later became an (almost) inescapable federal prison. the 101-foot high Rainbow Falls and pristine a national marine sanctuary. Hiking, camping,
Tours. mountain scenery. Hiking, camping. snorkeling, kayaking, birdwatching, tours.
nps.gov/alca nps.gov/depo nps.gov/chis

San Francisco Maritime National Yosemite National Park, the Sierra Nevada Joshua Tree National Park, Twentynine Palms
Historical Park, San Francisco One of the first wilderness parks in the United This desert wilderness, composed of both the
Located at Fisherman’s Wharf, this museum is host States, and now a World Heritage Site, this famous Mojave and Colorado deserts, lies atop hundreds of
to a number of historic sailing vessels. park spans three counties and 760,000 acres. It is earthquake faults, allowing visitors to see unique
Tours. nps.gov/safr host to spectacular waterfalls, mountains, granite rock formations throughout its 789,745 acres.
cliffs, forests and backcountry. Hiking, rock Hiking, camping, backpacking, mountain biking,
Fort Point National Historic Site, San Francisco climbing, camping, backpacking, mountain biking, rock climbing, tours. nps.gov/jotr
A decommissioned fort in the Presidio, you can tour fishing, water sports, tours.
the facility that began guarding the entrance to the nps.gov/yose Cabrillo National Monument, San Diego
Bay during the Civil War. Celebrating the first European to step on West Coast
nps.gov/fopo Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, shores, this park boasts a monument, tidepools,
Southern Sierra Nevada in Tulare & Fresno counties trails, a lighthouse, museum and former military
Presidio of San Francisco, San Francisco Also known as the Land of the Giants, this park is installations. Hiking, bird and whale watching.
A former army post, this 1500-acre park contains a home to huge mountains, rugged foothills, deep nps.gov/cabr
museum, national cemetery, historic architecture, canyons, vast caverns, and some of the world’s
miles of coastline and forested hiking trails. Tours, largest trees. Hiking, camping, backpacking, rock
hiking, biking. climbing, tours.
nps.gov/prsf nps.gov/seki

188 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
» HOTELS, RESORTS & INNS
Auberge Resorts 1-866-282-3743 Hawthorn Suites 1-800-337-0202; hawthorn.com Marriott Hotels 1-888-236-2427; marriott.com
aubergeresorts.com Hilton Hotels 1-800-HILTONS; Hilton.com Preferred Hotels & Resorts 1-866-990-9491
Best Western 1-800-780-7234 Historic Hotels of America 1-800-678-8946 preferredhotels.com
bestwesterncalifornia.com historichotels.org Radisson Hotel & Suites 1-800-967-9033
California Association of Bed & Holiday Inn/Holiday Inn Express radisson.com
Broughton Hotels 714-848-2224; broughtonhotels.com 1-877-865-6578; holidayinn.com Ramada Inn 1-800-854-9517
Choice Hotels 1-877-424-6423; choicehotels.com Homestead Studio Suites Hotels ramada.com
Crowne Plaza 1-888-233-0368; crowneplaza.com 1-800-804-3724; homesteadhotels.com The Ritz-Carlton 1-800-542-8680
Days Inn 1-800-225-3297; daysinn.com Howard Johnson 1-800-221-5801; hojo.com ritzcarlton.com
Doubletree 1-855-610-TREE Hyatt Hotels 1-888-591-1234; hyatt.com St. Regis and Luxury Collection
doubletree.hilton.com Intercontinental Hotels 1-877-865-6578 1-800-325-3539; starwoodhotels.com
Embassy Suites 1-800-EMBASSY ihg.com Starwood Hotels 1-877-782-0150
embassysuites.hilton.com Joie de Vivre 1-800-738-7477; jdvhotels.com starwoodhotels.com
Fairmont Hotels & Resorts 1-800-257-7544 Kimpton Hotels 1-800-KIMPTON Travelodge 1-800-525-4055
fairmont.com kimptonhotels.com travelodge.com
Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts La Quinta Inn and Suites 1-800-SLEEPLQ W Hotels 1-877-W-HOTELS
1-800-819-5053; fourseasons.com lq.com starwoodhotels.com
Hampton Inn & Suites 1-800-HAMPTON Larkspur Hotels 1-877-527-5778 Wyndham Hotels & Resorts 1-800-347-7559
hamptoninn.hilton.com larkspurhotels.com wyndhamworldwide.com

» AIRPORTS

DISTANCE COST COST OF


AIRPORT/CODE OF TAXI SHUTTLE PUBLIC TRANSIT PHONE WEBSITE
FROM CITY (APPROX.) (APPROX.)

BOB HOPE AIRPORT


2.7 mi Metrolink, Amtrak, MTA Bus,
(BUR)
4.3 km $15 $15 1-818-840-8840 burbankairport.com
Burbank Bus
BURBANK

FRESNO-YOSEMITE
5.4 mi
8.7km Fresno Area Express Bus, VIA
INTERNATIONAL (FAT)
Yosemite 92 mi $20 — 1-800-244-2359 flyfresno.com
(Yosemite Connection Service)
FRESNO
148 km

LONG BEACH
6 mi Long Beach
AIRPORT (LGB)
9.6 km $23 $20 562-570-2600 lgb.org
Transit Bus
LONG BEACH

LOS ANGELES
16.5 mi Metro Bus and
INTERNATIONAL (LAX)
26.5 km $70 $18 310-646-5252 lawa.org/welcomelax.aspx
Rail lines
LOS ANGELES

OAKLAND
4.6 mi
INTERNATIONAL (OAK)
7.4 km $40 $29 AC Transit Bus, BART 510-563-3300 oaklandairport.com
OAKLAND

ONTARIO
2.3 mi
INTERNATIONAL (ONT)
3.7 km $18 $18 OmniTans Bus 909-937-2700 lawa.org/welcomeont.aspx
ONTARIO

PALM SPRINGS
1.8 mi
INTERNATIONAL (PSP)
3 km $17 $15 MBTA Bus, SunLine Bus 760-318-3800 palmspringsca.gov
PALM SPRINGS

SACRAMENTO
10 mi
INTERNATIONAL (SMF)
16 km $45 $15 YoloBus 916-929-5411 sacairports.org
SACRAMENTO

SAN DIEGO
5.3 mi
INTERNATIONAL (SAN)
8.5 km $18 $12 Metro Bus 619-400-2404 san.org
SAN DIEGO

SAN FRANCISCO
14 mi AC Transit Bus, BART,
INTERNATIONAL (SFO)
22.5 km $60 $17 1-800-435-9736 flysfo.com
SamTrans Bus, CalTrain
SAN FRANCISCO

SAN JOSE
2.5 mi
INTERNATIONAL (SJC)
4 km $20 $19 VTA Bus 408-392-3600 flysanjose.com
SAN JOSE

JOHN WAYNE – ORANGE


9.3 mi OCTA Bus,
COUNTY AIRPORT (SNA)
15 km $40 $21 949-252-5200 ocair.com
Irvine Shuttle Bus
SANTA ANA

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 189
RESOURCES
» TRANSPORTATION
AIRLINES Hornblower Cruises and Events
Air Canada 1-888-467-6256 hornblower.com Offers half- and full-
1-888-247-2262 aircanada.com day cruises from San Diego, Long Beach, Newport
Alaska Airlines, Inc. Beach, Marina Del Rey, San Francisco, Berkeley and
1-800-252-7522 alaskaair.com Old Sacramento. CAR RENTALS
American Airlines 1-800-433-7300 aa.com Red & White Fleet 415-673-2900
Delta Air Lines 1-800-221-1212 delta.com redandwhite.com San Francisco Bay cruises.
Frontier Airlines 801-401-9000 ADVANTAGE
frontierairlines.com TRANSPORTATION BY REGION 1-800-777-5500
advantage.com
Hawaiian Airlines 1-800-367-5320 San Diego Metropolitan Transit System
hawaiianair.com 619-233-3004 sdmts.com Train, bus and trolley system
ALAMO
JetBlue Airways 1-800-538-2583 jetblue.com around the San Diego environs.
1-877-222-9075
Southwest Airlines 1-800-435-9792 SunLine Transit Agency 1-800-347-8628 sunline.org aIamo.com
southwest.com Bus service for the Desert Region (Coachella Valley).
Spirit Airlines 801-401-2222 spirit.com Orange County Transportation Agency AVIS
United Airlines 1-800-864-8331 united.com 714-560-6282 octa.net Bus and rail service for 1-800-633-3469
Virgin America 1-877-359-8474 all of Orange County. avis.com
virginamerica.com Riverside Transit Agency (RTA) 951-565-5002
Westjet 1-888-937-8538 riversidetransit.com Bus service for the Inland BUDGET
westjet.com Empire/Desert communities. 1-800-218-7992
Los Angeles Metropolitan Transit Authority budget.com
RAIL 1-323-466-3876 metro.net
DOLLAR
Amtrak California 1-800-USA-RAIL Train and bus system for the greater Los Angeles area.
1-800-800-5252
amtrakcalifornia.com Santa Barbara Metropolitan Transit District (MTD)
d0IIar.c0m
Train travel throughout California and beyond. 805-963-3366 sbmtd.gov Bus service for Santa Barbara
County/Central Coast. ENTERPRISE
BUS Regional Transit Authority 805-781-4472 855-571-8410
Greyhound Bus Line slorta.org Bus service for San Luis Obispo enterprise.com
1-800-231-2222 greyhound.com County/Central Coast.
National bus service serving all of California. Monterey-Salinas Transit FOX
1-888-678-2871 mst.org Bus service 855-571-8410
BUS TOUR COMPANIES for Monterey County. foxrentacar.com
California Parlor Car Tours 1-800-227-4250 Santa Cruz Metro 831-425-8600 scmtd.com
HERTZ
calpartours.com One- to seven-day tours of California Bus service for Santa Cruz County/Central Coast.
1-800-654-3131
sights. Tri-Delta Transit 925-754-6622
hertz.com
Caravan.com 1-800-CARAVAN caravan.com California trideltatransit.com Bus service for Delta
coast and Yosemite tours. communities/Central Valley. NATIONAL
Gray Line Bus Tours 1-888-428-6937; YoloBus 530-661-0816 yolobus.com Bus service for 1-877-222-9058
1-800-828-6699 sanfranciscosightseeing.com; the Central Valley. nationalcar.com
graylineanaheim.com Transit 511 511 transit.511.org Train, light rail, bus,
Tours of San Francisco Bay Area sights, wine country, trolley, cable car, BART, and ferry system serving San PAYLESS
Central Coast, Yosemite and more; tours of Southern Francisco, Marin, East Bay and Peninsula, South Bay 1-800-729-5377
California including Tijuana, Mexico. and parts of the Central Coast. paylesscar.com
Silverado Stages 1-888-383-8109 Sacramento Regional Transit 916-321-2877 sacrt.com
silveradostages.com Day and weekend tours, primarily Bus and light rail for Sacramento County/ THRIFTY
1-800-334-1705
up and down the California coast to various destinations. Gold Country.
thrifty.com
Starline Tours 1-800-959-3131 starlinetours.com Santa Rosa CityBus 707-543-3333
Hourly, daily or multi-day tours of srcity.org/departments/transit/CityBus
California sights. Bus service for Santa Rosa/North Coast.
Sonoma County Transit 1-800-345-7433
RV RENTALS
CRUISE LINES sctransit.com Bus service for Sonoma County/
Catalina Express 1-800-481-3470 North Coast.
catalinaexpress.com Cruise and ferries from Southern Mendocino Transit Authority 1-800-696-4682
CALIFORNIA RV RENTALS
California to Catalina Island. mendocinotransit.org Bus service for Mendocino 1-866-838-4465
Flagship Cruises & Events 1-800-442-7847 County/North Coast. caIiforniarvrentaIs.com
flagshipsd.com Tours of San Diego Bay, as well as
Pacific Ocean tours (including whale watching). FERRY TERMINALS CAMPER TRAVEL USA
Also dinner and brunch tours. Includes Coronado Transit 511 511 transit.511.org Includes all ferry 1-877-778-1752
Island ferry information. systems serving the San Francisco Bay Area. campertraveIUSA.com
Harbor Breeze Cruises 562-432-4900
2seewhales.com Whale watching tours from Long CRUISE AMERICA
Beach (Los Angeles area).
1-800-671-8042
cruiseamerica.c0m

190 2 016 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A
» ART MUSEUMS
SAN DIEGO PALM SPRINGS John Natsoulas Center for the Arts
San Diego Museum of Art Coda Gallery 521 1st Street, Davis 530-756-3938
1450 El Prado, San Diego 73-151 El Paseo, Palm Desert natsoulas.com
619-232-7931 sdmart.org 1-760-346-4661
Museum of Photographic Art codagallery.com/palm_desert OAKLAND
Palm Springs Art Museum Oakland Museum of California
1649 El Prado, San Diego
101 Museum Drive, Palm Springs 1000 Oak Street, Oakland
619-238-7559 mopa.org
1-760-322-4800 psmuseum.org 510-451-3322 museumca.org
Museum of Contemporary Art
700 Prospect Street, La Jolla
SAN JOSE SANTA BARBARA
858-454-3541 mcasd.org
San Jose Museum of Art Santa Barbara Museum of Art
Mingei International Museum 110 S. Market Street, San Jose 1130 State Street, Santa Barbara
1439 El Prado, San Diego 408-271-6840 sjmusart.org 805-963-4364
619-239-0003 mingei.org Cantor Arts Center 328 Lomita Drive sbmuseart.org
Stanford 650-723-4177
LOS ANGELES & ORANGE COUNTY museum.stanford.edu MONTEREY/CARMEL
American Museum of Ceramic Art Triton Museum of Art Monterey Museum of Art
340 S. Garey Avenue, Pomona 1505 Warburton Avenue, Santa Clara 559 Pacific Street, Monterey
909-865-3146 408-247-3754 tritonmuseum.org 831-372-5477
amoca.org Movimiento de Arte y Cultura montereyart.org
California African American Museum Latino Americana Center for Photographic Art
510 South 1st Street, San Jose San Carlos Street at 9th Avenue,
600 State Drive, Exposition Park,
408-998-2783 maclaarte.org Carmel-by-the-Sea
Los Angeles 213-744-7432
831-625-5181 photography.org
caamuseum.org
SAN FRANCISCO
California Heritage Museum
Asian Art Museum SANTA CRUZ
2612 Main Street, Santa Monica 200 Larkin Street, San Francisco The Museum of Art & History
310-392-8537 415-581-3500 asianart.org at McPherson Center
californiaheritagemuseum.org California Historical Society 705 Front Street, Santa Cruz
Craft and Folk Art Museum 678 Mission Street, San Francisco 831-429-1964
5814 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles 415-357-1848 californiahistoricalsociety.org santacruzmah.org
323-937-4230 Cartoon Art Museum
cafam.org 655 Mission Street, San Francisco MARIN COUNTY
The Huntington Library 415-227-8666 cartoonart.org Marin Museum of Contemporary Art
and Art Collections The Contemporary Jewish Museum 500 Palm Drive, Novato
1151 Oxford Road, San Marino 736 Mission Street, San Francisco 415-506-0137
415-655-7800 thecjm.org marinmoca.org
626-405-2100 huntington.org
de Young Museum
The J. Paul Getty Museum
50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, SAN LUIS OBISPO
1200 Getty Center Drive, Los Angeles
San Francisco 415-750-3600 San Luis Obispo Museum of Art
310-440-7300
deyoung.famsf.org 1010 Broad Street, San Luis Obispo
getty.edu/museum Legion of Honor 805-543-8562
The Getty Villa 17985 Pacific Coast 100 34th Avenue, San Francisco sloma.org
Highway, Pacific Palisades 310-440-7300 415-750-3600 legionofhonor.famsf.org
getty.edu/museum Museum of African Diaspora IRVINE
Los Angeles County Museum of Art 685 Mission Street, San Francisco The Irvine Museum
5905 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles 415-358-7200 moadsf.org 18881 Von Karman Ave. Suite 100, Irvine
323-857-6000 lacma.org San Francisco Museum of Modern Art 949-476-0294
Museum of Contemporary Art (SFMOMA) 151 Third Street, San Francisco irvinemuseum.org
250 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles 415-357-4000 sfmoma.org Closed for
and The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA expansion until May 14. NAPA
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts di Rosa Preserve
152 North Central Avenue, Los Angeles
701 Mission Street, San Francisco 5200 Sonoma Highway, Napa
213-626-6222 moca.org
415-978-2787 ybca.org 707-226-5991
Norton Simon Museum
dirosaart.org
411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena
SACRAMENTO VALLEY
626-449-6840 nortonsimon.org
Crocker Art Museum FRESNO
Orange County Museum of Art 216 O Street, Sacramento 916-808-7000 Arte Américas
850 San Clemente Drive, Newport Beach crockerartmuseum.org 1630 Van Ness, Fresno
949-759-1122 ocma.net Viewpoint Photographic Art Center 559-266-2623
Pasadena Museum of California Art 2015 J Street, Sacramento arteamericas.org
490 E. Union Street, Pasadena 916-441-2341
626-568-3665 pmcaonline.org viewpointgallery.org

201 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A 191
RESOURCES
» THEME PARKS

Adventure City PixieLand


1238 South Beach Blvd., Anaheim 2740 E. Olivera Road, Concord
714-236-9300 925-676-9612
adventurecity.com pixieland.com

Balboa Fun Zone San Diego Zoo Safari Park


600 East Bay Ave., Balboa 15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido
thebalboafunzone.com 619-231-1515
sdzsafaripark.org
Belmont Park
3146 Mission Blvd., San Diego Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk
858-488-1549 400 Beach Street, Santa Cruz
belmontpark.com 831-423-5590
beachboardwalk.com
California’s Great America
4701 Great America Pkwy., Santa Clara Scandia Ontario
408-988-1776 1155 S. Wanamaker Ave., Ontario
cagreatamerica.com 909-390-3092
scandiafun.com/ontario
Castle Park
3500 Polk Street, Riverside Scandia Sacramento
5070 Hillsdale Blvd. Sacramento
951-785-3000
916-331-5757
castlepark.com
scandiafun.com/sacramento
Children’s Fairyland
Scandia Victorville
699 Bellevue Ave., Oakland
12627 Mariposa Rd, Victorville
510-452-2259
760-241-4007
fairyland.org
scandiafun.com/victorville
Disneyland/Disney California Adventure
SeaWorld
1313 South Harbor Blvd., Anaheim 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego
714-781-4000 1-800-257-4268
Disneyland.disney.go.com seaworld.com

Fairytale Town Six Flags Discovery Kingdom


3901 Land Park Drive, Sacramento 1001 Fairgrounds Drive, Vallejo
916-808-5233 707-644-4000
fairytaletown.org sixflags.com/discoveryKingdom

Funderland Six Flags Hurricane Harbor


1350 17th Ave., Sacramento 26101 Magic Mountain Parkway, Valencia
916-456-0131 661-255-4527
funderlandpark.com sixflags.com/hurricaneharborLA

Gilroy Gardens Six Flags Magic Mountain


3050 Hecker Pass Hwy, Gilroy 26101 Magic Mountain Pkwy., Valencia
408-840-7100 661-255-4100
gilroygardens.org sixflags.com/magicmountain

Knott’s Berry Farm Splash Kingdom Waterpark


8039 Beach Blvd., Buena Park 1101 California Street, Redlands
714-220-5200 909-335-7275
knotts.com splashkingdom.net

Legoland Storyland Playland Family Amusement Park


1 Legoland Drive, Carlsbad 890 W. Belmont Avenue, Fresno
760-918-5346 559-486-2124
California.legoland.com storylandplayland.com

Pacific Park Universal Studios


380 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City
310-260-8744 1-800-UNIVERSAL
pacpark.com Universalstudioshollywood.com

192 2 01 6 T R AV E L G U I D E T O C A L I F O R N I A

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