2017 TRA VEL G U I D E T O

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CELEBRATE
CANADA
Vibrant, Diverse
and Naturally
Spectacular

Feature Sections on
Canada’s Provinces
and Territories

$7.95 DISPLAY UNTIL OCTOBER 31, 2017

ULTIMATE ADVENTURES
DYNAMIC CITIES
FESTIVALS, GOLF, SHOPPING, SPAS . . .
Do ȓMǪȻǬǯȡLǷ>TǻɁȣ[J
In South Eastern Ontario

Bay of Quinte | Prince Edward County | Land O’Lakes

Rideau Heritage Route | Kingston | 1000 Islands | Cornwall and The Counties
With an abundance of fresh, flowing water to play in and relax on and 150 years
of heritage to celebrate; we’re authentic, vibrant...always entertaining.
What will you do?

DoSoutheast.ca
CANADA
YOU’LL FIND IT HERE
Looking for authentic Canadian experiences? You’ll find them in abundance
in Ottawa, our nation’s capital. From inspiring new galleries and museums
that tell our stories, to iconic landmark sites, arts, adventure and urban
delights – Ottawa lets you experience some of the best of Canada, all in
one place. Come see for yourself.

#MyOttawa WWW.OTTAWATOURISM .CA

Canadian & Indigenous Galleries
at the National Gallery of Canada

Canadian History Hall at the

Canadian Museum of History

Canada Goose Arctic Gallery

at the Canadian Museum of Nature
6-14 October 2017 • Cape Breton Island celtic-colours.com

Come ceilidh with us!

Join us for nine days in October when Cape Breton
Island is alive with music, energy and excitement!

Enjoy the spectacular fall colours and renowned

hospitality as we celebrate our rich culture with
dozens of concerts, world class musicians and
hundreds of community events all over the Island.

T H E T R AV E L G U I D E S TO

THE 2017 TRAVEL GUIDE TO CANADA - CONSUMER EDITION

THE 2017 TRAVEL INDUSTRY GUIDE TO CANADA

The Travel Guides to Canada are published by Globelite Travel Marketing Inc.
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1496 LOWER WATER STREET HALIFAX
STEPS FROM THE WATERFRONT!
 NATIONAL
10 MAP OF CANADA
12 13 REASONS WHY CANADA ROCKS
16 CANADA 150: CELEBRATING A NATION
18 TRAVELLERS’ TIPS
20 OTTAWA: THE CAPITAL OF EXCITEMENT
26 CRUISING IN CANADA:

TABLE OF FROM SEA TO SHINING SEA

28 CANADA’S 18 WORLD HERITAGE SITES

CONTENTS 29 MISTAKEN POINT

30 WHAT’S NEW AT PARKS CANADA IN 2017
32 CELEBRATE CANADA’S 150TH ON THE RAILS!
36 A LAND FOR ALL SEASONS
40 WILDLIFE VIEWING: WILD CREATURES OF CANADA
44 RVING: YOU SET THE LIFESTYLE IN AN RV
46 ABORIGINAL TOURISM LEADS
INTERNATIONAL VISITS
49 FOOD: A TASTE OF CANADA
52 FIND YOUR PERFECT SPA
54 DRINK: A TOAST TO CANADA
57 SHOPPING: MORE THAN SOUVENIRS
60 CELEBRATE WITH US:
CANADA’S VIBRANT FESTIVALS
62 GOLF: CALLING ALL SWINGERS!
CANADA’S FINEST FAIRWAYS BECKON

TORONTO, ON • ON TOURISM/DESTINATION CANADA HODGES HILL, NL • NL TOURISM

 REF
9

PROVINCES AND
TERRITORIES
64 BRITISH COLUMBIA FROM
CITY LIGHTS TO MOUNTAIN HEIGHTS

70 ALBERTA ALPINE VISTAS, CITY

SOJOURNS AND RURAL RETREATS
ROYAL TYRRELL MUSEUM:
74
VISIT THE LOST WORLD OF DINOSAURS

76 SASKATCHEWAN
LAND OF LIVING SKIES

80 MANITOBA FOR FOODIES,

FAMILIES AND FRESH AIR FANATICS

84ONTARIO SO NATURAL,
SO SOPHISTICATED
90 NIAGARA: ENGAGE YOUR SENSES
96 YOUR ONTARIO RESORT IS WAITING
THE GREAT WATERWAY TAKES YOU
104
TO UNEXPECTED PLACES

110 QUÉBEC LIVING AT

THE HEART OF IT ALL

116 NEW BRUNSWICK

EAST OF ORDINARY
120 NOVA SCOTIA SAY “HELLO”
124 HALIFAX: WHERE OLD AND NEW INTERSECT

128 P.E.I. PATCHWORK PERFECT

NEWFOUNDLAND
132 AND LABRADOR
ANOINTED BY UNESCO
FOUR WAYS TO ENJOY WESTERN
137
NEWFOUNDLAND

140 YUKON GOING TO THE

MOST UNEXPECTED PLACES
WHITEHORSE: IT’S BIGGER
145
THAN THE WILDERNESS

150 NORTHWEST TERRITORIES

NO APPOINTMENT NECESSARY
154 NUNAVUT CANADA’S TRUE NORTH
159 ARCTIC AIR MAP

CONSUMER GUIDE COVER: VALLEY OF THE TEN PEAKS AND

MORAINE LAKE, BANFF NATIONAL PARK, AB • ESTOCK PHOTO/SIME
TRAVEL INDUSTRY GUIDE COVER: VANCOUVER, BC • SHUTTERSTOCK/MFFOTO
QUÉBEC CITY • SHUTTERSTOCK/ELZBIETA SEKOWSKA
12

13
Canada, being the world’s second
largest country, covers a lot of
ground. So its far-lung boundaries
encompass many diferences in
terms of geography and culture. One
thing, however, remains constant:
wherever you go in this vast land,

REASONS you’re sure to ind something

remarkable. Here are 13 of the
reasons why Canada rocks.

WHY
CANADA 1 WHALE TALES:
BRITISH COLUMBIA
In some places, red-breasted robins

ROCKS
BY SUSAN MACCALLUM-WHITCOMB
announce the arrival of spring. On the
western shore of Vancouver Island, it’s the
return of the grey whales—some 20,000 of
which swim by as they make the 8,000-km
(4,970-mi.) trip from the balmy breeding
lagoons of Mexico to feeding grounds up
north. Whale-watching boats depart from
towns like Ucluelet and Toino. But since
the massive mammals follow the coast
closely, you can also observe them without
leaving land. The peak viewing time in
Paciic Rim National Park Reserve is from
March through May (www.parkscanada.gc.
ca/paciicrim).

2 ALBERTA
PANCAKE
PANDEMONIUM:
Hungry attendees will be happy to hear that
pancake lipping is as much a part of the
Calgary Stampede as bull riding and barrel
racing. In fact, an estimated 200,000
pancakes—topped with 454 kg (1,000 lb.)
of butter and 1,728 l (380 gal.) of syrup—are
served at free breakfasts hosted city-wide
each July during the 10-day event. Many
also come with a side order of entertain-
ment. The tradition started in 1923, when
chuckwagon driver Jack Morton began
inviting random folks to share his morning
meal; now it serves as edible evidence
of that legendary Western hospitality
(www.stampedebreakfast.ca).

3 REEL LIFE:
SASKATCHEWAN
For many people, Saskatchewan calls to
mind waving ields of prairie grain, yet this
landlocked spot has real waves as well. In
FISHING • TOURISM SK

fact, 100,000 or so lakes and rivers cover
about a tenth of the province, providing
some of the best freshwater ishing
anywhere. Local waters, furthermore, have
yielded many trophy catches over the years.
Consider the walleye, Saskatchewan’s
oicial provincial ish and its most popular
game species. An average walleye weighs
less than 1.5 kg (3.3 lb.): the world-record
holder caught here by an ice isherman
was an astounding 8.33 kg (18.36 lb.)
(www.tourismsaskatchewan.com/things-
to-do/ishing).
4 BEAR ESSENTIALS:
MANITOBA
You can see a polar bear just by picking up
a “toonie”—the two-dollar coin. But if you
want an up-close look at the planet’s largest
land predators, make tracks for Churchill.
This tiny community on the western shore
of Hudson Bay is one of the only human
settlements where they can be seen in the
wild. Because it sits on a polar bear
migration route, hundreds pass through as
they travel to the ice loes in October and
November. Cool Tundra Buggies—complete
with oversized wheels and an outside
viewing platform—take guests to observe
them on unforgettable day tours (www.
everythingchurchill.com).
5 THE PLAY’S THE THING:
ONTARIO
7 NEW
ALLURING LOBSTERS:
BRUNSWICK
Shakespeare said “All the world’s a stage,”
and Stratford—a small city in southwestern
Ontario named for the Bard’s birthplace—
actually feels like one during its signature
event. Each year, from April through
STRATFORD FESTIVAL • ON TOURISM/J. SPEED
13
October, the Stratford Festival draws
nearly half a million theatregoers to
four separate venues. Founded in
1953, it had humble beginnings: plays
were originally performed in a tent.
From the start, however, the festival
attracted luminaries from the theatre
world. Sir Tyrone Guthrie was its irst
artistic director and Sir Alec Guinness
starred in its inaugural production of
Richard III (www.stratfordfestival.ca).
6 COOL
ACCOMMODATIONS:
QUÉBEC
What beats walking in a winter
wonderland? How about sleeping in
one? At the Hôtel de Glace, every-
thing—including the glittering guest
room furniture—is made entirely of
ice and snow: 30,500,000 kg (30,500
tons) of it to be exact. Its thick walls
act like a thermos, so you can chill
without getting too chilly; and the
ice-block beds, topped with specially-
designed mattresses, thick woolen
blankets and Arctic-rated sleeping ICE HOTEL, QC • CTC
bags, are très cosy. Built anew each
year, the Hôtel de Glace is in Valcartier Crustaceans. One is proudly displayed on
Vacation Village and open from January to its coat of arms; another—a 55,000-kg
late March (www.hotel (55-ton) whopper, albeit made from
deglace-canada.com). metal—is its main attraction. Moreover,
since 1949, it has honoured the catch du
jour each July during the ive-day Shediac
Lobster Festival. The highlight of the event
Shediac, a cute Acadian ishing community, is a nightly contest during which recruits
bills itself as the “Lobster Capital of the attempt to crack and consume three
World.” Whether or not that’s technically lobsters as quickly as possible (www.
true, this town obviously loves the King of shediaclobsterfestival.ca).
CHURCHILL, MB • TRAVEL MB
14
SHEDIAC BAY, NB • CTC
8 ROCK STARS:
NOVA SCOTIA
The Joggins Fossil Clifs on Chignecto Bay
are more than just another pretty rock face.
After all, they provide an unparalleled look
at what life was like 300 million years ago
during the Carboniferous Period. Some
200 species of fossilized plants and animals
CONFEDERATION BRIDGE, PE • SHUTTERSTOCK/DAVID P. LEWIS
have been discovered here, among them
Hylonomus lyelli, the earliest known reptile
and the irst known vertebrate able to live
entirely on land. Cited by Charles Darwin in
The Origin of Species, this 15-km-long
(9.3-mi.), tide-washed UNESCO World
Heritage site has been dubbed the “Coal Age
Galápagos” (www.jogginsfossilclifs.net).
9 BRIDGING THE GAP:
PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND
Although P.E.I. joined Confederation in
1873, the province wasn’t physically
connected to the rest of Canada until the
billion-dollar Confederation Bridge opened
between Borden-Carleton and Cape
Jourimain, New Brunswick, 124 years later.
Comprised of almost 13 km (8 mi.) of
curvaceous concrete, the so-called “ixed
link” qualiies as the longest bridge in the
world spanning ice-covered water. It took a
team of more than 5,000 workers four years
to build this 11-m-wide (36-ft.) engineering
marvel; motorists can cross it in a mere 12
minutes (www.confederationbridge.com).
10 MIXED SIGNALS:
NEWFOUNDLAND &
LABRADOR
The provincial capital’s leading landmark,
Signal Hill, is crowned by an imposing
stone tower, which was erected to com-
memorate the arrival of Giovanni Caboto in
1497. The Genoese explorer is better known
to anglophones as John Cabot. Coincidently,
all of the modern-day visitors who tweet
about the tower or post cellphone pics of it
 15

SIGNAL HILL, ST. JOHN’S NL • SHUTTERSTOCK/CHRIS HOWEY

to Facebook and Instagram owe a debt to
another trail-blazing Italian, Guglielmo
Marconi. The radio pioneer ushered in the
era of global communications when he
received the irst transatlantic wireless
signal here on December 12, 1901 (www.
parkscanada.gc.ca/signalhill).
11 YUKON
CRAZY COCKTAILS:
More than a century after the Klondike
world’s largest Dark Sky Preserve—
creates top viewing opportunities
from mid-December to mid-March
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/wood
bufalo).
13 THAT SINKING
FEELING:
NUNAVUT
Nunavut doesn’t make headlines
often, but in 2014 the news went viral: after
HMS EREBUS, NU • PARKS CANADA

his crew and both vessels disappeared in

Gold Rush ended, Dawson City is still a 168 years, the HMS Erebus—one of the ships 1846 while trying to traverse the Northwest
place where “strange things are done in the from the ill-fated Franklin Expedition—had Passage—and gain a lucrative trade route
midnight sun.” If you want proof—about 40 been discovered in its icy waters by Parks between the Atlantic and Paciic. Finding
proof to be precise—head to the Sourdough Canada archaeologists. The feat was them helps solve one of the world’s great
Saloon in the Downtown Hotel and order a repeated in 2016 when her sister ship, the marine mysteries (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
Sourtoe Cocktail. The of-beat beverage has HMS Terror was located. Sir John Franklin, franklin).
one key ingredient that hip mixologists
tend to overlook—namely a dehydrated
human toe. To become a certiicate-carry-
ing member of the Cocktail Club, you can
drink your shot fast or you can drink it
slow, “but your lips have gotta touch the
toe” (www.downtownhotel.ca/sourtoe-
cocktail).

12 TERRITORIES
LIGHT DELIGHTS:
NORTHWEST
Neither words nor pictures can truly
convey the beauty of the aurora borealis, a
natural phenomenon sparked by surges of
solar and magnetic energy. You simply have
to see the iridescent colours dance across
the night sky yourself. An ideal place to do
it is the Northwest Territories, where “The
Greatest Light Show on Earth” is visible
about 240 days a year. The absence of light
pollution in Wood Bufalo National Park—
Canada’s largest national park and the
WOOD BUFFALO NATIONAL PARK, NT • PARKS CANADA/JOHN D. MCKINNON
16

SKY LOUNGE • OTTAWA CELEBRATIONS BUREAU

CANADA 150: This year marks Canada’s 150th anniversary, and

Canadians are using the occasion as the spring-
CELEBRATING board for a dizzying array of celebrations and art
projects. The commemorations range from Sky
A NATION BY LAURA BYRNE PAQUET
Lounge, a dinner party on a platform suspended
46 m (150 ft.) above the nation’s capital, to a tall
ships regatta that will visit six provinces.

Want to join in the fun? One of the best
opportunities will be on Canada Day, July 1,
when communities large and small will
celebrate with ireworks, concerts and
more. Here are just a few of the many, many
other ways to enjoy Canada’s big birthday
party throughout 2017.
GREAT PERFORMANCES
In Toronto, the TIFF Bell Lightbox—head-
quarters of the Toronto International Film
Festival—is running a free program of
Canadian movies all year long (www.tif.
net). Movie bufs can also check out
National Canadian Film Day 150 on April 19,
when more than 600 screenings of
Canadian movies will take place nation-
wide (www.canadianilmday.ca/about-ncfd).
North: A Pan-Territorial Celebration—
mid-October to mid-November—will be a
series of events featuring performers,
artists, and Dene, Inuit and Arctic athletes
from the Yukon, the Northwest Territories
and Nunavut (www.north150nord.ca ).
The Toronto Symphony Orchestra is co-
ordinating with some 40 ensembles across
the country to produce Canada Mosaic, a
year-long series of performances of
Canadian compositions (canadamosaic.tso.
ca). Also for classical music fans, the
National Youth Orchestra will stop in 12
cities across the country to perform new
works during The Edges of Canada Tour,
July 20 to August 15. In select cities, the
orchestra will perform with Native
Canadian artists or the National Youth
Choir (www.nyoc.org/2017tour?language
=en_CA&).
GOOD EXERCISE
Several regions are celebrating the
country’s anniversary with epic running
events. For instance, Manitoba’s Canada 150
Ultramarathon on Canada Day winds
through 241 km (150 mi.) of forests and
hills in the Canadian Shield (www.canada
150ultra.com), and the Scotiabank Calgary
Marathon—May 25 to 28—is running
 17

special solo and relay 150K (93 mi.) races AT THE MUSEUMS throughout the year, to celebrate Canada’s
this year (www.calgarymarathon.com). The Canadian Museum of Immigration birthday and the 375th anniversary of the city’s
at Pier 21 in Halifax began celebrating founding. The illuminations start on May 17.
OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Canada’s big birthday early by developing Ottawa, the nation’s capital, is also
As a huge birthday present to the country, an exhibition called Canada: Day 1 as a hosting a huge range of sesquicentennial
Parks Canada is ofering free admission to Canada 150 legacy project. Focusing on events. They include the Sky Lounge, the
all of its national parks, national marine newcomers’ irst impressions of their aforementioned dinner in the sky (July 7 to
conservation areas and national historic new home, the exhibition has been criss- 22), a multimedia show in a soon-to-open
sites throughout 2017. As just three examples crossing the country for several years. This underground transit station (June to
of ways to put this to good use: see Canada’s year, two versions of it will be on display September), huge mechanical creatures—
highest mountain in Kluane National Park simultaneously in special recognition of La Machine—making their way through the
and Reserve in the Yukon, spot beluga the country’s anniversary: one at the city core from July 22 to 26 and a planned
whales right from the shore in Saguenay–St. Canada Museum of History in Gatineau, illumination of Chaudière Falls late in the
Lawrence Marine Park in Québec, or tour Québec from June 2017 to January 2018, and year (www.ottawa2017.ca ).
Green Gables Heritage Place—which the other at the Halifax museum from April In spring, 150 communities across the
inspired the setting of the classic children’s to October 2017 (www.pier21.ca/canada- country will bloom with red and white
novel Anne of Green Gables—in Prince day-1-travelling-exhibition-schedule). tulips as part of the 150 Celebration Garden
Edward Island. The free Discovery Pass is In Toronto, the Ontario Science Centre program (www.canadasgardenroute.ca ).
available at www.parkscanada.gc.ca. is presenting Canada 150: Discovery Way, an Many are small towns and villages, such as
The Great Trail is also scheduled for installation celebrating Canadian scientiic Saltcoats, Saskatchewan, and Hillsborough,
completion in 2017. Conceived 25 years ago achievements. It will run throughout 2017 New Brunswick.
during Canada’s 125th anniversary celebra- (www.ontariosciencecentre.ca/calendar/336 ). Vancouver hosts the second-largest
tions, the nation-spanning network of Canada Day bash in the country, outside of
recreational trails will stretch almost ONE OF A KIND Ottawa, and this year the celebrations at
24,000 km (14,913 mi.) and cross every Rendez-vous 2017, a regatta of over Canada Place will go on for three days, with
province and territory—there’s even a trail 40 tall ships, will be visiting more than food trucks, ireworks, a citizenship
across the tip of Bain Island in Nunavut 30 communities in Ontario, Québec and ceremony and more (www.canadaplace.ca ).
(www.thegreattrail.ca ). Atlantic Canada between June 30 and
August 20 (www.rdv2017.com). That’s just a taste of the events coming
ARTISTIC FLAIR In Montréal, a $39-million project will up. For more information on Canada 150
In the Peace Liard region of northern British see the landmark Jacques Cartier Bridge projects across the country, please see
Columbia, artists and other residents are illuminated with thousands of lights that www.canada.pch.gc.ca/eng/1475163068164;
collaborating on a project to celebrate both will change colour for diferent occasions www.canada.pch.gc.ca/eng/1468262573081
Canada’s big birthday and the 75th anniversary
of the Alaska Highway. They are transform-
ing one of the machines used to build the
highway into a piece of steampunk art
(www.peaceliardarts.org/special-projects/
public-art-sculpture).
A charitable organization called Partners
in Art is coordinating LandMarks 2017, June 10
to 25, a series of contemporary art installations
in or near national parks, marine conserva-
tion areas and historic sites (www.landmarks
2017.ca), including Pingo Canadian Landmark
in the Northwest Territories and Gros Morne
National Park in Newfoundland and Labrador.
Another nationwide project, Canada 150
Mosaic, will see the creation of 150 murals
in communities across the country, with
railroads as the connecting theme (www.
canada150mosaic.com ).
The Winnipeg Art Gallery is coordinating
ART EXPRESS’D (canada150.wag.ca), in which
three shipping containers converted into mo-
bile art studios will travel across the country
to encourage the public to express their
feelings about Canada in art—June to August.
NEW YEAR’S EVE, IGNITING OTTAWA 2017 CELEBRATIONS • OTTAWA CELEBRATIONS BUREAU
18

CANADIAN MUSEUM OF HISTORY • ON TOURISM

TRAVELLERS’ Before travelling, it is useful to have some basic information on

your destination. Provincial and territorial agencies can provide

TIPS
BY SUSAN MACCALLUM-WHITCOMB
material covering every aspect of tourism in their region, allowing
you to plan accordingly. We’ve compiled our own list of tips—
consider this Canada 101, a primer to help you prep for your trip.

ENTERING THE COUNTRY
First impressions count, so the Canada
Border Services Agency makes entering the
country comparatively easy. Vacationing
citizens of Britain and most EU or
Commonwealth countries need only a valid
passport and Electronic Travel
Authorization (eTA). Visas aren’t required;
however, a return ticket and proof of
suicient funds may be requested.
American citizens travelling between the
U.S. and Canada must produce a passport
or other WHTI-compliant document, such
as a NEXUS card (www.cbp.gov/travel). If in
doubt, consult Citizenship and
Immigration Canada (www.cic.gc.ca).
There are no limitations on what
personal efects can be brought into
Canada. Gifts must be valued at $60 or less
each. Duty-free limits for adults are 1.5 l (53
imp. oz.) of wine, 1.14 l (40 imp. oz.) of
spirits or 8.5 l (287 imp. oz.) of beer or ale.
Adults may also bring up to 200 cigarettes,
50 cigars, 200 g (7 oz.) of tobacco or 200
tobacco sticks.
The use of irearms is strictly con-
trolled, and the buying or selling of illicit
drugs is severely dealt with. When
travelling, prescription medications should
be kept in original containers in case
customs oicials want to see them. In the
interest of public health, restrictions are
also placed on the importation of animals,
plants and foods (www.inspection.gc.ca ).
GETTING AROUND
Flights operated by Air Canada (www.
aircanada.ca) and carriers like WestJet
(www.westjet.com) or Porter (www.
lyporter.com) link many Canadian cities.
In some airports, a departure tax is levied
on top of taxes included in your ticket
price. The national train system, VIA Rail,
ofers cross-country service, with connec-
tions to certain U.S. cities (www.viarail.ca).
Inter-city bus service is also available in
some areas through companies such as
Greyhound (www.greyhound.ca). Civic
buses provide public transit in many
communities; Vancouver, Calgary,
Edmonton, Toronto and Montréal,
moreover, have excellent subway and local
rail systems. Taxi service has been a
foundation in cities and municipalities for
many years, however, upstart Uber is
available in some major cities. For many
travellers, though, driving is the preferred
way to go.
The cornerstone of the national road
network is the Trans-Canada Highway,
which stretches 8,030 km (4,990 mi.) from
Victoria, B.C., to St. John’s, Newfoundland,
with ferries covering coastal waters at each
end. Canadians drive on the right and
follow rules similar to those in Britain and
the U.S. At intersections you may turn right
on a red light if the way is clear and unless
posted otherwise (except on the Island of
Montréal). Speed limits, stated in kilome-
tres, vary but are usually around 100 to 110
km/h (62 to 68 mph) on highways and 50 to
60 km/h (31 to 37 mph) in urban areas.
Radar detectors are illegal in most locales.
Seat belts are compulsory, and children
weighing less than 18 kg (40 lb.) must be in
child restraint seats. Every province and
territory, save for Nunavut, forbids using
hand-held electronic devices when driving.
Permissible blood alcohol limits vary, but
drinking and driving laws are strictly
enforced nationwide.

British and U.S. driver’s licences are
valid in Canada for up to three months. Car
rental companies are found at airports and
in many municipalities. Internationally-
observed age limits apply, and drivers
should present an acceptable credit card.
All motorists must have accident liability
insurance. Americans driving across the
border should obtain a Canadian Non-
resident Inter-Province Motor Vehicle
Liability Card, commonly known as a
yellow card (available from their insurer in
the U.S. only) before leaving. Drivers should
also bring their vehicle registration card,
a letter of permission from the registered
owner or a rental company contract
stipulating permission for use in Canada.
HEALTH AND SAFETY
Even in Canada’s largest cities it is generally
safe to walk the streets and use public trans-
portation at night. Nevertheless, prudent
visitors will let common sense be their
guide and take the usual precautions.
Belongings left in parked cars should be
stowed out of sight. Purses and wallets are
best kept beneath outer clothing; passports
and other valuables stored in a hotel safe.
To avoid unnecessary grief if theft occurs,
keep a list of credit card and other import-
ant numbers in a secure place.
In the event of illness or accident, it is
reassuring to know that Canada’s health
services rank among the world’s inest.
Most hospitals are publicly managed, their
fees set by provincial authorities. Non-
residents hospitalized in Canada are
charged a daily rate. These difer by province
and can be cost prohibitive, so it is import-
ant to purchase travel health insurance
before leaving home.
Canadians travelling domestically can
typically rely on their provincial health
coverage. All provinces and territories
except Québec have a co-operative agree-
ment allowing physicians to submit claims
for services involving out-of-province
residents to the local medical plan; these
are then charged to that resident’s home
plan. Residents who are required to pay for
health services can submit receipts to their
local ministry oice for possible reimburse-
ment. Services not covered while travelling
out of province include ambulances and
prescription drugs from pharmacies.
Buying supplementary medical insurance
can alleviate these costs.
MONEY MATTERS
Canada’s paper currency comes in 5, 10, 20,
50, 100 and 1,000 dollar bills, which difer
in colour but not size. Coins are in 5¢, 10¢
and 25¢ denominations; there are also $1
and $2 coins, dubbed the loonie and toonie.
U.S. currency is widely accepted at the
prevailing exchange rate, though you
should expect to receive change in
Canadian funds.
Sales taxes are added to the price of
virtually everything, including meals and
lodgings. For starters, there is a federal 5
percent Goods and Services Tax (GST).
Except in Alberta and the territories, there is
also a provincial sales tax (PST), which is
sometimes combined with the GST to create
one Harmonized Sales Tax (HST). This
means you’ll pay an extra 10-15 percent on
top of most advertised purchase prices.
A TIP ABOUT TIPPING
Service charges are seldom added to
bills, except in resorts. Gratuities of
15 to 20 percent are customary for
waiters, taxi drivers and similar
personnel. Porters and bellmen
expect $2 to $5 per bag handled; a
room maid, $2 or $3 per day.
Automated teller machines (ATMs) that
accept international debit cards are
plentiful, and many are accessible around
the clock. Just bear in mind that four-digit
PIN codes are considered standard—if yours
has more, change it before leaving home. To
minimize transaction fees, choose an ATM
ailiated with your home bank; users of
Cirrus or PLUS networks can research
locations on-line. Americans who’d rather
pay by credit card should note that chip &
PIN cards are commonplace here; however,
transactions can often be processed using
the old swipe and sign method, too.
OPERATING HOURS
Most communities have branches of major
banks which are open, at minimum, from 10
to 3 on weekdays. Banks are closed on legal
holidays, but exchange bureaus in cities,
airports and at border crossings usually
remain open. Museums and similar sites
are typically open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; some
close on Monday but have evening hours
(and often reduced prices) once a week.
19
Store hours are generally 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.,
Monday through Saturday, though these may
be extended on Thursday and Friday nights;
times vary on Sunday. Shopping centres are
typically open 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. on week-
days, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday, and
noon to 5 p.m. on Sunday. Supermarkets
often have longer hours. Drugstores may
remain open until midnight with some
24-hour locations, and convenience stores
sometimes operate 24/7.
Canada’s liquor laws vary between
provinces and territories, and liquor store
hours vary accordingly. The sale of spirits,
wines and beer in provinces difer, with
most being sold in provincially-owned or
supervised stores, as well as some available
in private shops. In Alberta privately owned
liquor stores are allowed to sell alcohol.
COMMUNICATIONS
The Canadian telephone system is identical
to the U.S. one and shares the same
international country code (01). Telephone
numbers have a 3-digit area code followed
by the 7-digit local number. Toll-free
numbers are preixed by 1-800, 1-888, 1-877,
1-866, 1-855 or 1-844. For emergencies, dial
911; for directory assistance, dial 411; for the
operator, dial 0.
Public phone booths, while increasingly
rare, can be used for local or long-distance
calls. The cost of the former is 50¢; you can
pay for the latter with coins, a phone card
and sometimes a credit card, or by reversing
the charges. International visitors can
typically use their own multiband cell phone
but should be mindful of high roaming and
data charges. One way to avoid these is to
ask your provider to temporarily add
Canadian access to your service plan before
arriving. Renting a travel phone or bringing
an “unlocked” cell phone and then buying a
local SIM card are other alternatives.
On-line options such as Skype, FaceTime
or WhatsApp ofer cheaper ways to keep in
touch. Most hotels provide broadband
connections or WiFi, at least in common
areas. Many airports, bus and train stations,
ferry terminals and libraries also ofer WiFi;
ditto for countless cofee shops and fast
food franchises, including those ubiquitous
Tim Hortons outlets. If you are bringing a
phone charger, laptop, or any other electrical
device, be advised that Canada (like the
U.S.) has a 110-V, 60-Hz current. To use
220-V British equipment, you’ll need a
power converter plus a plug adaptor.
20

OTTAWA CONVENTION CENTRE • CTC

 21

OTTAWA: THE If you’ve never visited Ottawa before—and even if

you have—this is the year to put Canada’s capital on
CAPITAL OF your “must see” calendar. Not only will the city be
throwing a year-long party to celebrate Canada’s 150th
EXCITEMENT BY LAURA BYRNE PAQUET
anniversary, but it will also see the opening of a
$110.5-million expansion of the National Arts Centre
(NAC) and a new home for the Ottawa Art Gallery.

In addition, Ottawa will host both the

Juno Awards for music and the Canadian
Football League’s Grey Cup championship.
And, of course, you can still enjoy activities
ranging from the Changing of the Guard
ceremony to skating on the Rideau Canal.
Here’s just a taste of what you can expect in
Canada’s sixth-largest city in 2017.

ARTISTIC FLAIR
Whether you’re a fan of theatre, music,
dance, photography or painting, you’ll be
able to enjoy your favourite cultural treats
in stylish new surroundings.
The NAC recently renovated its largest
theatre, Southam Hall, but that’s just the
beginning of the big news at the city’s
lagship home of theatre, music and dance.
On Canada Day (July 1), the NAC is set to
unveil a multi-storey glass atrium over- RIDEAU CANAL SKATEWAY • OTTAWA TOURISM
looking the National War Memorial,
Confederation Square and Parliament Hill. Photographers visiting Ottawa can also The new space will present Native Canadian
In fall, the Ottawa Art Gallery will move draw inspiration from the Canadian and Western-style art together, helping
into a new ive-storey building of over 7,432 Photography Institute—one of the conti- visitors understand Canada’s art history
sq. m (80,000 sq. ft.), which includes a nent’s largest public photography insti- from a new perspective.
screening space that will be home to the tutes—whose dedicated exhibition space
Canadian Film Institute. The new gallery is opened within the National Gallery of WATER WORLD
centrally located between the University of Canada last October. It focuses on Canadian Ottawa ofers lots of chances to clamber
Ottawa and the Rideau Centre. works created between 1960 and 2000. aboard your choice of watercraft. Rideau
In summer, the private School of the Speaking of the National Gallery, it is Canal Cruises is set to launch its second
Photographic Arts: Ottawa (SPAO) plans to currently transforming its Canadian electric-powered boat this year, providing
move into stylish new quarters in Little Galleries and some of the Contemporary environmentally friendly tours of the
Italy that will include a public gallery Galleries, which will reopen mid-year Rideau Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage
featuring students’ work. as the Canadian and Indigenous Galleries. Site in the heart of the city. Visitors can also
22

enjoy the canal by houseboat, kayak or
canoe—or cycle, walk or jog on paths along its
banks. In winter, the groomed ice surface
becomes the world’s largest skating rink.
In nearby Gatineau, the airboat tours
ofered by Bayou-Outaouais give visitors the
chance to spot a variety of wildlife including
STAY BIG
great blue herons, painted turtles,
ospreys, beavers and rare water plants.
Thrill-seekers can take a short road
trip west of the city to test their mettle
against Class III to Class V whitewater
rapids on the Ottawa River. Whitewater
rafting companies, such as OWL Rafting
near Foresters Falls, provide trips to suit a
wide range of ages and abilities—no
previous paddling experience required!
HIP HOTELS
Festival, the Ottawa Wine and Food
Festival, and Christmas Lights Across
Canada (www.ottawatourism.ca/en/
visitors/what-to-do/festival-and-events).
MUSEUM NEWS
The Canadian Museum of Nature will
open the 743-sq.-m (8,000-sq.-ft.) Canada
Goose Arctic Gallery on June 21. The new
permanent gallery will allow people to
virtually “visit” the hard-to-reach region,

OR STAY Ottawa welcomed two sleek new hotels in

HOME! 2016. The Andaz Ottawa Byward Market—
the irst Canadian location for Hyatt’s
Andaz brand—features a farm-to-table
restaurant, a sensational rooftop bar and
OTTAWA’SBIGGEST 3 blocks
terrace, and rooms with loor-to-ceiling
HOTELSUITES from Parliament Hill
windows. The Alt Hotel Ottawa in
Centretown ofers 148 rooms with Keurig
cofee makers, Italian-designed armchairs
and spa-style showers. In 2018, the Alt’s
sister property, Le Germain Hotel Ottawa,
is slated to open as part of the new Ottawa
Art Gallery complex.
FEELING FESTIVE
New Year’s Eve celebrations and
Winterlude kick of the Capital’s busy
festival schedule, which later in the year
features such events as the Canadian
Tulip Festival, the Ottawa Children’s
albertatbay.com | 1-800-267-6644
Festival, the Festival franco-ontarien
Banque Nationale, the TD Ottawa Jazz
Festival, RBC Bluesfest, Ottawa
C E L E B R AT I N G 3 5 Y E A R S
Chamberfest, the Casino Lac-Leamy
Sound of Light, CityFolk music festival,
the Ottawa International Animation
which comprises roughly 40 percent of
Canada’s area. Interactive games, two
aquaria, videos by northerners and
artefacts will illuminate four themes:
climate, ecosystems, sustainability and
geography.
Less than two weeks later, on July 1,
the Canadian Museum of History will
open the Canadian History Hall, a
3,716-sq.-m (40,000-sq.-ft.) space which
includes three galleries, 1,500 artefacts,
100 digital productions and 75 maps. This
permanent exhibition will tell the story of
Canada from the irst human habitation
to the present day. The museum’s major
temporary exhibition for the year will be
Hockey in Canada: More Than Just a Game
(March 10 to October 9).
At the Royal Canadian Mint, a
permanent guided tour gives visitors a
peek into how Canadian coins are made.
Nearby, the Bytown Museum, which
focuses on the city’s history, is celebrating
its 100th anniversary this year with a
special exhibition called Bytown Museum:
A Century of Community (February 3, 2017
to February 18, 2018).

CANTONESE &
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We offer all-day Dim Sum!

613-236-0555
700 Somerset St. W., Ottawa
www.yangtze.ca
BYWARD MARKET • OTTAWA TOURISM
 23

The Canada Aviation and Space

Museum is launching a new interactive
audio guide, while the Canada Agriculture
and Food Museum has a spring exhibition
about farmers’ use of satellite data and a
summer show about canola.
The Canadian War Museum’s major
Boulangerie
show is Vimy – Battle, Memorial, Icon WHERE PASSION BEGINS. Diplôme de Cuisine
(April 6, 2017, to January 7, 2018). Not built
by the museum, but located nearby, the THE WORLD’S LEADING Diplôme de Pâtisserie
Grand Diplôme®
new National Holocaust Monument is
scheduled to be unveiled late in the year.
CULINARY INSTITUTE. Short Courses
Also in late 2017, the Canada Science and
Technology Museum plans to reopen after
an $80.5-million renovation.
Ottawa’s quirkiest museum may be the
Diefenbunker—once an unused Cold
War-era underground hideout for politi-
cians. Filled with 1960s furniture and
technology, it ofers intriguing activities,
such as Halloween zombie adventures and
a huge “escape room” where teams of up to
12 have an hour to foil some “spies” and
work their way out of the facility.

FINE FOOD cordonbleu.edu/ottawa

Opportunities to dine well abound in
LCBOttawa @cordonbleuott lecordonbleuottawa
Ottawa. Neighbourhoods such as the
Byward Market, West Wellington,
Westboro, Little Italy and the Glebe are
home to a wide range of restaurants, while
the number of destination bistros in areas
such as New Edinburgh and Hintonburg
continues to grow. In Chinatown, the
Yangtze Dining Hall has been renowned for COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT
its dim sum for more than three decades. In
Sandy Hill, Signatures—a Le Cordon Bleu
OTTAWA EAST
restaurant housed in an elegant Victorian
mansion—serves classic French cuisine
Offering our guests the following features:
prepared by chefs training at the presti- • Complimentary underground parking
gious school. • Complimentary hi-speed internet
• 395 spacious guest rooms
BE A SPORT • Access to 43,000 sq.ft. of event space
In 2016, the Ottawa REDBLACKS were the • 37 meeting rooms
irst Ottawa team in four decades to bring • 2 ballrooms with unobstructed views
home the Canadian Football League’s Grey • Just off of Highway 417 & minutes from downtown Ottawa
Cup, and this year the city will host the next • The Bistro, where you can find a delicious meal
championship. Sports fans can also cheer and refreshing beverage
on the National Hockey League’s Ottawa • Proudly serving Starbucks coffee
Senators, the Ottawa Fury of the North
American Soccer League, and several other
sports teams.

Clearly, this year, Ottawa will have Courtyard by Marriott Ottawa East
enough happening to amuse just about 200 Coventry Rd, Ottawa, ON K1K 4S3
every visitor. To ind out more, see the Direct: (613) 741-9862
Toll Free: (855) 333-6896
Ottawa Tourism website at www.ottawa CourtyardOttawaEast.com
tourism.ca .
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WELCOME TO YOUR HISTORY

Breathtaking setting. Majestic architecture. Fascinating exhibitions.
Canada’s national museum of history explores this country’s rich
cultural heritage, including the outstanding achievements of its First Peoples.

Opening July 1, visit the Canadian History Hall, our new signature
CANADIAN exhibition, where evidence of the past tells a tale as vast and
HISTORY
HALL varied as the land itself.

100 LAURIER STREET, GAT INEAU Q C, CANADA historymuseum.ca

Canada’s vibrant capital city of national landmarks, cultural attractions,
urban experiences and natural beauty.

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CANADIAN MUSEUM OF NATURE

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240 Mcleod Street, Ottawa, Ontario
1-800-263-4433 NATURE.CA

WWW.OTTAWATOURISM.CA
26

TORONTO HARBOUR • SHUTTERSTOCK/JAMES WHEELER

CRUISING Taken together, the three oceans that lap this country’s
borders—the Atlantic, Paciic and Arctic—create the
IN CANADA longest continuous coastline in the world: one that
stretches a whopping 243,042 km (151,019 mi). As if that
FROM SEA TO wasn’t enough to satisfy cruisers’ cravings, Canada is
also laced with mighty rivers and punctuated by lakes
SHINING SEABY SUSAN MACCALLUM-WHITCOMB
that can rightly be called “great,” so it is no surprise that
this place holds lots of promise for passengers.

WESTERN WONDERS
Canada’s signature cruise is undoubtedly
the west coast one that traces the British
Columbian shoreline from mid-April
through mid-October. Since it covers a
hefty portion of the so-called Alaska Route,
stunning vistas are guaranteed—indeed
few sea-going experiences can compare
with threading the island-studded Inside
Passage, where snow-crowned mountains,
glacier-carved jords and abundant marine
life vie for attention. Luckily, the ports you
visit en route are as appealing as the sights
you see from your deck chair.
Take Vancouver. The nation’s busiest
home port drew 830,000-odd passengers in
2016 alone, most of them travelling north on
big-name boats; however, this vibrant city
isn’t just a convenient embarkation point.
It delivers a full slate of urban enticements
—top-rated restaurants, theatres and oh-
so-trendy shops among them—along with
easy access to the area’s parks and peaks.
Victoria, meanwhile, mixes a “high tea”
tradition with high adventure opportunities.
If you really want to go wild, eco-oriented
outits like Maple Leaf Adventures,
Bluewater Adventures, and Outer Shores
Expeditions all have sailings that include
Haida Gwaii, “The Galapagos of the North.”
THE ATLANTIC
On the opposite side of the country,
historic communities, towering tides and
legendary Maritime hospitality make the
Canada/New England Route another classic
choice from late April to November. The
scenery does not disappoint, especially in
autumn when forests blaze with brilliant
foliage; nor do the distinctive ports.
Leading the list in passenger traic is
Halifax (coincidentally, the birthplace of
cruise pioneer Samuel Cunard). Notable
for its deep harbour and charming
waterfront attractions, Nova Scotia’s capital
received over 238,000 cruisers last year.
Charlottetown (home to Anne of Green
Gables and world-class golf), Saint John and
Sydney (gateways to the Bay of Fundy and
Cabot Trail, respectively) are other top calls.
Specialty sojourns that focus exclusively
 27

on this area—like Adventure Canada’s trip the irst large, luxury liner to traverse the cruisers across the Atlantic (www.viking
to Sable Island—are increasingly available; Northwest Passage. cruisescanada.com).
however, most cruises begin or end in New Admittedly, such voyages aren’t for
York or Boston, meaning you can see key everyone. Speciic destinations can be hard The Port of Halifax made Cruise Critic’s
ports in as little as four nights. Extended to pinpoint due to the vagaries of tides or latest annual list of the top ive American
itineraries are ofered, too. So boats may weather; and landing places, sometimes and Canadian cruise destinations (www.
veer across open seas to Newfoundland, accessible only via Zodiac, aren’t necessari- cruisehalifax.ca).
where ports like St. John’s (a centuries-old ly ports per se since the population might
city that also features on transatlantic trips) consist solely of walruses. The upside is Trois-Rivières solidiied its status as an
and Corner Brook (the launch pad for Gros that the “Great White North” has great white up-and-coming port of call by opening a
Morne National Park) extend a warm wildlife (think polar bears, beluga whales new port terminal in 2016 (www.tourisme
welcome; or they may head through the and snowy owls), unspoiled scenery, plus a troisrivieres.com/en/cruise).
Gulf of St. Lawrence and follow the rich Inuit culture; and the vessels that sail
eponymous river. here can get cruisers up close to it all. As an After a $78-millon makeover, Montréal will
added bonus, the majority have resident cut the ribbon on its re-imagined Alexandra
INLAND ADVENTURES experts well-versed in subjects like natural Pier facility in May, 2017 (www.cruises.ala
This second alternative is rapidly growing history and Native customs who will share montreal.com).
in popularity, and rightly so because the their knowledge through formal lectures
fabled St. Lawrence has much to recommend and guided excursions. The new Victory Cruise Lines brought
it. Woods, whales, jords and photogenic With choices like that available, there’s all-inclusive cruising to the Great Lakes
headlands make it an eastern answer to B.C.’s never been a better time to come aboard in when it launched in 2016 (www.victory
Inside Passage—one infused with Québécois Canada! cruiselines.com)
charm. Consequently, pocket-sized ports
that showcase its natural beauty are emerging WHAT’S NEW? The return of Crystal Cruises last year
as destinations in their own right, while two Viking Ocean Cruises entered Canadian means that 11 lines currently call Vancouver
marquee stops routinely win rave reviews. waters with ive new itineraries that carry their homeport (www.portvancouver.com).
Québec City, after all, is famous for its
UNESCO-designated fortiications and
beautiful heritage buildings; while Montréal
(one of the world’s largest French-speaking
cities) has a storied past that is accented
with cosmopolitan élan. The vessels that
visit these ports, moreover, cover an impres-
sively broad spectrum in terms of size and
style. Cruisers, for example, can live large
on Cunard’s luxurious Queen Mary 2, opt for
an expedition on Adventure Canada’s Ocean
Endeavour, or aim for intimacy on Victory
Cruise Line’s boutiquey M/V Victory I. The
mere arrival of the last of these, which
debuted in 2016 and ofers 10-day itinerar-
ies on the gorgeous Great Lakes, further
illustrates the way that new entries on the
Canadian cruise scene are maximizing the
potential of our inland waterways.

NORTHERN DELIGHTS
The once-frozen Arctic is heating up as well,
and in summer, when seas are navigable,
there are ever-increasing possibilities for
bucket listers and nature bufs who feel its
magnetic pull. Quark Expeditions and
Adventure Canada, for instance, both put
new vessels into service on the Arctic Route
in recent years. New lines, similarly, are
coming in to showcase the area’s austere
beauty—most notably Crystal Cruises; last
August, its Crystal Serenity made history as
28
CANADA’S 18 WORLD
HERITAGE SITES
BRITISH COLUMBIA
SGANG GWAAY
(Anthony Island)
Gwaii Haanas National Park
Reserve, National Marine
Conservation Area Reserve, and
Haida Heritage Site
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
gwaiihaanas
ALBERTA
CANADIAN ROCKY
MOUNTAIN PARKS
(Alberta & British Columbia)
Banf National Park
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/banf
Jasper National Park
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/jasper
Kootenay National Park
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/kootenay
Yoho National Park
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/yoho
Mount Robson, Mount Assiniboine
and Hamber provincial parks
(Managed by BC Parks)
www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks
DINOSAUR PROVINCIAL PARK
www.albertaparks.ca/dinosaur.aspx
HEAD-SMASHED-IN BUFFALO
JUMP
www.history.alberta.ca/
headsmashedin
WATERTON GLACIER
INTERNATIONAL PEACE PARK
(Alberta & Montana)
Waterton Lakes National Park
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/waterton
Glacier National Park (Operated
by the U.S. National Park Service)
www.nps.gov/glac/index.htm
ONTARIO
RIDEAU CANAL NATIONAL
HISTORIC SITE
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/rideau
QUÉBEC
HISTORIC DISTRICT OF OLD
QUÉBEC
Fortiications of Québec
National Historic Site
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
fortiications
MIGUASHA NATIONAL PARK
www.sepaq.com/pq/mig
In 1972, the United Nations Educational,
Scientiic and Cultural Organization (UNESCO)
established, and continues to update, a published list
of cultural and natural heritage properties around the
world considered to be of outstanding universal
value to humanity. The goal is to encourage the
preservation of the identiied properties both at a
NOVA SCOTIA local and international level.
OLD TOWN LUNENBURG Entry and service fees are charged at most
www.explorelunenburg.ca national parks and national historic sites, where the
JOGGINS FOSSIL CLIFFS revenues are kept to support visitor services and
www.jogginsfossilclifs.net facilities. This means that every time you visit a park
LANDSCAPE OF GRAND PRÉ or site you are investing in its future—and in a legacy
NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE for future generations. For Canada’s 150th throughout
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/grandpre 2017, admission will be free for all Canadian national
NEWFOUNDLAND & parks, national historic sites, national marine
conservation areas operated by Parks Canada and
LABRADOR
GROS MORNE NATIONAL PARK lockage at Parks Canada historic canals and water-
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/grosmorne ways.
L’ANSE AUX MEADOWS For more information on World Heritage Sites visit
NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE the UNESCO website at: whc.unesco.org/en/list
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/meadows
MISTAKEN POINT ECOLOGICAL
RESERVE
www.env.gov.nl.ca/env/parks/
wer/r_mpe
RED BAY BASQUE WHALING
STATION
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/redbay
YUKON
KLUANE/WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS/
GLACIER BAY/TATSHENSHINI-
ALSEK (Yukon, British
Columbia & Alaska)
Kluane National Park and Reserve
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/kluane
Tatshenshini-Alsek Park
(Managed by BC Parks)
www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/
explore/parkpgs/tatshens
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
and Preserve (Operated by the U.S.
National Park Service)
www.nps.gov/wrst/index.htm
Glacier Bay National Park &
Preserve (Operated by the U.S.
National Park Service)
www.nps.gov/glba/index.htm
NORTHWEST
TERRITORIES
NAHANNI NATIONAL PARK
RESERVE
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/nahanni
WOOD BUFFALO NATIONAL
PARK OF CANADA (Alberta
& Northwest Territories)
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
woodbufalo
QUÉBEC CITY FORTIFICATIONS • CTC
 29

MISTAKEN POINT ECOLOGICAL RESERVE • NL TOURISM/BARRETT & MACKAY

How can a place that holds a key to the evolution of life be named Mistaken
MISTAKEN Point? Located on the southeastern tip of Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula

POINT BY BARB & RON KROLL

between Portugal Cove South and Cape Race, Mistaken Point is a two-hour drive
south of St. John’s on Route 10, the Irish Loop Drive. Early sailors often confused
the Mistaken Point promontory with Cape Race, so it was named Mistaken Point.

Why did UNESCO designate the
Ecological Reserve as a World Heritage Site
in 2016? The 146-ha (361-acre) property and
its bufer zone protect fossils of the oldest
complex multicellular life forms found on
Earth from the middle Ediacaran Period
(580-560 million years ago).
MISSING LINK IN THE
EVOLUTION OF LIFE
The UNESCO site’s 17-km (11-mi.) strip of
coastal clifs represents a signiicant
milestone in the history of life. After nearly
three billion years of microbial evolution,
these large multicellular organisms
appeared in deepsea communities. The
more than 10,000 known fossil impres-
sions, now exposed by erosion, range in
size from a few centimetres to nearly two
metres (6.5 ft.) long.
Deposition of volcanic ash helped
create exceptionally well-preserved
imprints of the soft-bodied creatures,
where they lived and died on more than
100 sea loor surfaces—in what has been
called an “Ediacaran Pompeii.” The 20 fossil
species at Mistaken Point vary from fronds
to a sponge-like organism. Researchers
believe that the site contains more Ediacaran
Period impression fossils than in the total
collections of all the world’s museums.
INTERPRETIVE CENTRE
At the Edge of Avalon Interpretive Centre
in Portugal Cove South, visitors can watch
a video about Mistaken Point Ecological
Reserve and the global signiicance of its
fossils. Exhibits include fossils and a
casting of E surface, one of the most
impressive fossil beds. Visitors learn about
regulations to protect themselves and the
fossils during tours, such as bringing
appropriate footwear, rain gear, sunscreen
and insect repellent. Dogs, vehicles—
including bicycles, and collecting rocks
and fossils are all prohibited.
GUIDED TOURS
The only way visitors can view the fossils
is on guided tours which depart from the
interpretive centre daily from late May to
early October. In-person or phone reserva-
tions are required (tel: 709-438-1011).
Parks and Natural Areas Division
interpreters lead four-hour tours to the
fossil vantage point. Participants drive their
own vehicles on a gravel road, following
the guide to the trailhead. The six-km
(four-mi.) round-trip hike is moderately
diicult because the trail can be wet or
muddy, with some inclines and a shallow
river crossing with stepping stones.
During their walk, visitors see some of
the 150 plant species recorded in the reserve,
such as cloudberries, blueberries, cranber-
ries and insectivorous sundews. Hikers with
binoculars may identify some of the 180 bird
species that have been sighted, including
black-legged kittiwakes, other clif-nesting
seabirds and migrating Arctic-nesting
shorebirds. Short-tailed swallowtail butter-
lies, red fox, woodland caribou, moose and
other mammals inhabit the reserve.
Ofshore sightings of humpback and minke
whales, harbour and Atlantic grey seals and
harbour porpoises also delight participants.
Wildlife viewing is an added bonus to
experiencing a fossil snapshot of life on the
sea loor a half-billion years ago.
More information
www.env.gov.nl.ca/env/parks/wer/r_mpe/
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/mistakenpoint
whc.unesco.org/en/list/1497
30

GWAII HAANAS NATIONAL PARK RESERVE, BC • PARKS CANADA

WHAT’S NEW AT Do you like presents? To celebrate the 150th

anniversary of Confederation, Canada is giving you
PARKS CANADA a fantastic gift! In 2017, you’ll enjoy free admission
to all Parks Canada national historic sites, national
IN 2017 BY BARB & RON KROLL
parks and national marine conservation areas,
including lockage on historic canals.

PICNIC AND CAMPFIRE
PROGRAMS
Food always tastes better alfresco by
picturesque lakes, waterfalls, beaches and
forested hills. Many national parks and
national historic sites ofer picnic facilities
with panoramic views (www.parkscanada.
gc.ca/sault; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
gulislands; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
grosseile).
Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Highlands
National Park has a new May-to-October
program with 10 picnic areas and several
menu options. Simply place your order for
sandwiches, fruit, cheese, dessert and
bottled water at Keltic Lodge in Ingonish or
Harbour Restaurant in Chéticamp. Pick up
your picnic and enjoy it at scenic spots
such as Mary Ann Falls or Middle Head,
where you’re surrounded by ocean on three
sides. You can even buy a souvenir picnic
basket and blanket (www.parkscanada.gc.
ca/capebreton ).
Few family activities are more fun than
sitting around a glowing campire while
listening to storytellers, singing songs and
roasting marshmallows or s’mores.
Check out these campire programs:
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/mauricie;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/kouchibouguac;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/terranova;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/pei ).
100TH ANNIVERSARY OF
NATIONAL HISTORIC SITES
Parks Canada administers more than 170 of
nearly 1,000 diverse places where you can
walk in the footsteps of history, interact with
characters from the past and experience

PURPLE SAXIFRAGE, AULAVIK NATIONAL PARK, NT • PARKS CANADA/WAYNE LYNCH
Canada’s uniqueness. The oldest of these
national historic sites, Fort Anne, was
established in Nova Scotia 100 years ago.
With free admission in 2017, you can
simultaneously celebrate Canada’s 150th
birthday and the national historic sites’
centennial with special programs that bring
to life stories, people and events from
Canada’s history (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
fortanne; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/cartier;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/laurier;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/chilkoot;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/baru;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/hawthornecottage;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/roddhill ).
INDIGENOUS PROGRAMS
Canada’s Indigenous Peoples have deep,
long-term connections to nationally
protected areas. At several Parks Canada
places, you can learn about First Nations,
Inuit and Métis culture on guided walks and
PACIFIC RIM NATIONAL PARK RESERVE, BC • PARKS CANADA/SCOTT MUNN
PUKASKWA NATIONAL PARK, ON • PARKS CANADA/WILLY WATERTON
Indigenous interpretive programs which
show you how to bake bannock, weave and
identify birds, whales and plants.
An example? Listen to Haida songs and
stories and join fun, free and family-friendly
hands-on activities such as identifying
barnacles and shoreline creatures at British
Columbia’s Gwaii Haanas National Park
Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area
Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. During hikes
with Gwaii Haanas interpreters, discover how
the Haida harvested plants and trees to obtain
chewing gum, sun block and baby diapers
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/gwaiihaanas ).
BIOBLITZ
Do you want to be a citizen scientist? Team
up with Parks Canada ecologists and ield
naturalists to identify and count birds,
butterlies, wildlowers, plants, animals,
bumblebees and other critters. Snap photos
with your mobile devices or record sounds
31
and upload your observations to the
iNaturalist.ca app. Previous participants
have recorded new types of mushrooms,
plants and bats. What biodiversity will you
and your family discover?
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/gulislands;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/fundy;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/chamblycanal;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/superior;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/rouge;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/woodbufalo;
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/waterton).
With free sesquicentennial admission,
2017 is the year to experience more than 200
Parks Canada special places from coast-to-
coast.
More information
For more information about national parks
and historic sites: www.parkscanada.gc.ca;
1-888-773-8888.
32

VIA RAIL CANADA

CELEBRATE Celebrating Canada’s 150th birthday? Never forget

that what brought us together to form a country on
CANADA’S that fateful day in Charlottetown, Prince Edward
Island, was the promise of a railway that would link
150TH ON the West to the Maritimes. That railway, inally built
in the late 1800s, would enable valuable freight to
THE RAILS!
BY LIZ FLEMING
be moved, making our country a viable business
proposition for all provinces.

Soon that freight railway became even
more valuable as European tourists, keen to
see the New World, hurried to sail to Canada
and book their tickets. At the time, there
were few cars and fewer roads, so the
railway was the answer for all inland travel.
Passenger travel soon became as important
as freight, and touring the exciting young
country of Canada by train became ultra-
fashionable. Recognizing a growth trend
when they saw it, the Canadian Paciic
Railway Company hastened to build
glamorous high-style hotels to rival the
most elegant European châteaux, and
located them conveniently near the train
tracks so guests could relax at the end of a
day of touring. The combination of elegant
accommodation, and what must have been
in that day an absolutely magical manner of
travel, gave birth to a thriving Canadian rail
tourism industry.
That same rail tourism is still hugely
popular in Canada, with train journeys
topping the list for sophisticated travellers
from all over the world, eager to tour parts
of the rugged country that are otherwise
simply inaccessible. Many parts of the Far
North, for example, can only be explored by
train, and sitting in a comfortable railway
car is by far the most inviting way to cross
vast stretches of prairie, see the Rocky
Mountains and experience the wealth of
natural beauty that is Canada.
VIA RAIL
For travellers looking for eicient and
environmentally friendly transportation,
VIA Rail is a popular choice. With the
support of the Government of Canada, a
major modernization program has greatly
enhanced the VIA Rail experience,
including upgrades to the business class
service on the Québec City-Windsor
corridor route, which now ofers refur-
bished lounges, a more spacious on-board
environment, a greener and more comfort-
able trip, new meals and more personal-
ized service. WiFi accessibility is also
VIA RAIL CANADA
included on the Ocean eastern overnight
long-haul service between Montréal and
Halifax.
VIA Rail ofers some of Canada’s best
scenic travel experiences such as the
Canadian, a cross-country service linking
Toronto and Vancouver that is one of the
world’s most legendary and popular
long-haul rail journeys. Combining
breathtaking landscapes, cosy accommoda-
tions, attentive and courteous service and
outstanding dining, this train welcomes
more than 100,000 travellers every year.
For day trippers, the Québec City-
Windsor corridor is perfect for experiencing
some of the country’s most vibrant cities.
Every year, Toronto, Ottawa, Montréal and
Québec City come alive with iconic festivals
and events featuring top talent from around
the world, and VIA Rail Canada makes
getting there part of the thrill. Plan to
“festival hop” from city to city to experience
some of Canada’s many great events.
If unspoiled nature is your passion,
travel by train between Jasper National Park
and the rugged North Paciic Coast of Prince
Rupert, B.C. This two-day journey winds
along the Skeena River providing incredible
wildlife viewing of grizzlies, black bears,
moose, bald eagles, elk and mountain
sheep. Explore Prince Rupert’s remarkable
Museum of Northern BC, which houses the
fascinating history, culture and art of the
Northwest Coast in a traditional longhouse,
and visit the Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear
Sanctuary.
Canada’s north is also accessible with
VIA Rail Canada on a two-day trip from
Winnipeg to Churchill, MB that winds
34

AGAWA CANYON TOUR TRAIN • ON TOURISM
through prairie ields before reaching the
open expanse of the boreal forest.
Churchill, the “Polar Bear Capital of the
World,” also provides up-close and personal
experiences with beluga whales in summer-
time and stunning views of the magical
aurora borealis in winter (www.viarail.ca).
Rocky Mountaineer trips, or combine your
rail tour with a pre or post Alaskan cruise
experience from Vancouver, BC or Seattle,
Washington aboard select Holland America
Line ships (www.rockymountaineer.com).
WHITE PASS & YUKON
ROUTE RAILWAY
If you’ve ever longed to see Canada’s
farthest northern locations, such as the
Klondike Gold Rush country, you’ll want to
book a seat on the long-serving diesel and
steam locomotives of the White Pass &
Yukon Route Railway. Passengers aboard
this authentic vintage train, an
International Historic Civil Engineering
Landmark, make a steep 914 m (3,000 ft.)
climb through gorges and glaciers on a
narrow-gauge track. If you are really dying
to explore further, complete your adventur-
ous itinerary by adding a motor coach tour
through parts of Alaska, British Columbia or
the Yukon (www.wpyr.com).
AGAWA CANYON TOUR TRAIN
Fans of the legendary Group of Seven artists
will want to journey into the remote
northern Ontario wilderness that inspired
these talented painters on board the
Algoma Central Railway’s Agawa Canyon
Tour Train. Not only does the 367-km
(228-mi.) round trip from Sault Ste. Marie
wind through the spectacular canyon from
late June until mid-October, attracting
wildlife lovers and nature enthusiasts alike,
but it also makes a stop at Mile 114 to allow
for exciting hikes to nearby waterfalls and
sightseeing points. A GPS-triggered
commentary in ive languages makes sure
you don’t miss a thing along the way.
While spring and summer tours are
certainly beautiful, autumn is the most
popular time for this train tour. In fact,
so many “leaf peepers” come looking for
autumn colours that booking a full year
ahead is recommended (www.agawatrain.
com).
TRAIN DE CHARLEVOIX
This train-tour service runs on select days
from June through October. It travels
between Québec City’s stunning
Montmorency Falls and La Malbaie for 125
km (78 mi.), stopping in seven picturesque
towns and coastal villages as travellers
enjoy a gorgeous view of the St. Lawrence
River (www.reseaucharlevoix.com).
There is no other country in the world
that can rival Canada for stunning land-
scapes, untouched wilderness views,
rugged Rocky Mountain peaks and shim-
mering northern lakes. Could there be a
better way to celebrate this wonderful
country’s birthday than by exploring her
beauty from the comfort of a train?

ROCKY MOUNTAINEER
It’s no wonder that the Rocky Mountaineer
tops so many bucket lists. Ofering
once-in-a-lifetime views of the majestic
mountains, glittering lakes and pristine
wilderness that characterize western
Canada, this iconic train ofers a spectacu-
lar experience. Guests can choose from two
levels of service: SilverLeaf or GoldLeaf.
Both include top quality food and wine,
outstanding attention to detail and
fascinating, informative on-board com-
mentaries. Multi-day excursions include
such iconic destinations as Vancouver,
Victoria, Whistler, Lake Louise, Jasper,
Calgary, Banf and Kamloops. Add optional
excursions such as city tours and helicopter
rides to your itinerary, and enjoy the
overnight accommodations included in
WHITE PASS & YUKON ROUTE RAILWAY DEPOT • TOURISM YT/DEREK CROWE
36

SNOWSHOEING • TOURISM LAURENTIANS

It has been said that “to every thing there is a season and a
A LAND FOR time to every purpose under the heaven.” Well, in Canada—

ALL SEASONSBY SUSAN MACCALLUM-WHITCOMB

an undeniably heavenly place—that means a time to ski and
a time to swim, a time to hike and a time for harvest feasts.
This, after all, is a land of dramatic seasonal shifts, and
visitors can embrace all of nature’s cycles.

WINTER
Come in the coldest months and you’ll
understand why Canada is nicknamed the
“Great White North.” Vast quantities of snow
fall on much of the country, but there’s no
need to hibernate. Old Man Winter provides
ample outdoor opportunities.
SKIING AND SNOWBOARDING
Impressive mountains and deep powder
translate into high-calibre skiing—particu-
larly in the Rockies, which straddle the
British Columbia/Alberta border. Whistler
Blackcomb is the continent’s largest ski
resort. It has slopes appropriate for every
skill level, plus cross-country trails, tricky
terrain parks, amenity-illed accommoda-
tions and après-ski action, all within two
hours of Vancouver (www.whistlerblack
comb.com).
Kicking Horse (www.kickinghorse
resort.com), Fernie (www.skifernie.com ),
Sunshine Village (www.skibanf.com ) and
Lake Louise (www.skilouise.com ) are other
regional standouts. Away from their
well-groomed runs, adrenaline junkies can
take advantage of many of-piste possibili-
ties as well. It’s estimated that 90 percent of
the world’s heli-skiing occurs in British
Columbia, and local operators let skiers
and snowboarders access pristine powder
by air (www.heliski.com ).
Veering east, Ontario’s premiere ski
 37

resort is Blue Mountain, about two hours

north of Toronto (www.bluemountain.ca); SPRING (www.meewasin.com ) or the Grand
Concourse in St. John’s, give urbanites a
Québec’s leading ones are Mont Tremblant The irst day of spring can look very taste of the country (www.grandconcourse.ca ).
north of Montréal (www.tremblant.ca ) and diferent depending on where you are.
Mont-Sainte-Anne near Québec City (www. Some Canadians will be digging out from FLOURISHING FLORA
mont-sainte-anne.com). Newfoundland’s the latest snowstorm; others will already be The maple leaf is our national symbol, yet
Marble Mountain (www.skimarble.com) is in gardening mode. No matter when the this time of year the tree’s sap matters just
also noteworthy. Aside from having Atlantic thaw sets in, though, it’s greeted warmly. as much because making syrup from it is a
Canada’s highest vertical drop, the area rite of spring. About 80 percent of all maple
features Whistler-esque perks such as TRAIL MIX syrup comes from Canada and, as the sap
cat-skiing and winter zip-lining. Events like the World Ski and Snowboard rises, producers from Ontario to the Atlantic
Festival, staged in Whistler each April, kick into high gear for “sugaring of.”
ICY ALTERNATIVES prove how persistent the white stuf is Québec alone has 400-odd cabanes à sucre
From climbing frozen waterfalls in the (www.wssf.com). As the mercury rises, (sugar shacks), so there are lots of places
Rockies to snowkiting over frozen lakes on however, even winter wonderlands morph where you can see the sweet treat made,
“The Rock” (Newfoundland), cool options into playgrounds for sunnier pursuits. In then sample it poured on pancakes or
abound. If you want to stick with the fact, once the snow melts, it isn’t uncom- poured over snow to create tafy-like
classics, you can skate alfresco almost mon to see mountain bikers tackling the la tire.
anywhere—even in the middle of major vertigo-inducing slopes that Alpine skiers Blooming lowers are another sure sign
cities—given the wealth of natural and formerly swooshed down, or nature bufs of spring. Residents of Victoria do a
artiicial rinks. Variations on tobogganing, taking to the paths their Nordic counter- blossom count in late February, gleefully
similarly, are available on countless hills parts traversed earlier. broadcasting the results; and before long
and slick pro tracks, like those at WinSport’s Each province and territory has trails the city’s acclaimed Butchart Gardens are
Canada Olympic Park in Calgary (www. that put lovely landscapes within easy reach awash with colour (www.butchartgardens.
winsport.ca) or the Whistler Sliding Centre of hikers and bikers. The marquee one is com ). But it takes the rest of the country
(www.whistlerslidingcentre.com). And don’t The Great Trail which, when complete, time to catch up. The Devonian Botanic
forget snowshoeing, an ancient mode of will be the longest of its kind in the world Garden outside Edmonton doesn’t open
transportation made easier by today’s (www.tctrail.ca ). P.E.I.’s pastoral section— until May (www.devonian.ualberta.ca );
lighter equipment. the gently graded Confederation Trail— ditto for notable Maritime cousins includ-
Folks who dream of yelling “mush” follows a converted rail bed across the ing Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Royal Historic
can try dogsledding, another time- Island from tip to tip (www.islandtrails.ca ). Gardens (www.historicgardens.com ) and
honoured tradition, in most provinces If that sounds daunting, city systems such New Brunswick’s Kingsbrae Garden
and territories. Snowmobiling is a as Saskatoon’s Meewasin Valley Trail (www.kingsbraegarden.com ).
speedier update, and there’s no shortage
of trails; you’ll ind more than 22,000 km
(13,670 mi.) worth just in Manitoba and
Saskatchewan. Of course, simply sitting
back to savour the aurora borealis is
appealing, too. While Mother Nature’s
dazzling light display is visible in many
northern locales, clear skies and an
enviable position below the aurora oval
make Yellowknife an optimal observation
point (www.astronomynorth.com ).
Not to be outdone, city dwellers host
their own dazzling seasonal celebrations.
Foremost among them is the Québec Winter
Carnival —the world’s largest winter festival
—which brings snow sculptures, sleigh rides
and cold-weather competitions, all enhanced
by the joie de vivre of historic Vieux-Québec,
from the end of January through mid-February
(www.carnaval.qc.ca/en ).
Top draws elsewhere include
Winterlude in the National Capital Region
(canada.pch.gc.ca/eng/1416239267950)
and Winnipeg’s Festival du Voyageur
(www.festivalvoyageur.mb.ca ).
VICTORIA, BC • SHUTTERSTOCK/STEVE SMITH
38
PEI NATIONAL PARK • PARKS CANADA/DALE WILSON
SUMMER
Summer—when the weather is warmest,
the days are longest and the tour options
are broadest—is the peak period for
vacationers. Landlubbers have plenty to do
and warmed-up water beckons, making this
the time for a true surf-and-turf experience.
LAND-BASED ACTIVITIES
The number of hiking and cycling enthusi-
asts enjoying recreational trails continues to
multiply in summer. Towering mountains,
moreover, tempt an increasing number of
climbers. With the Coast Mountains and
Rocky Mountains to the west, the
Appalachians to the east, the Canadian
Shield in between, and the heart-stopping St.
KILDONAN PARK, MB • TOURISM WINNIPEG/JOHN SLIPEC
Elias Range to the north, the choices are
endless for intrepid types who have set their
sights high (www.alpineclubofcanada.ca).
When something more down to earth is
in order, Canada’s National Parks deliver
(www.pc.gc.ca). During July and August they
put together a full roster of programs,
enabling visitors to participate in scheduled
events that run the gamut from horseback
riding and birdwatching to interpretive walks
and nighttime stargazing sessions. The fact
that many of these are afordable or free, and
geared toward families, is a welcome bonus.
BEACHES
If beach bums had to pick a single province,
it would probably be P.E.I. Boasting over
800 km (500 mi.) of sand and saltwater
temperatures that can reach 21º C (70º F),
the smallest province is a summer paradise.
From the sandy expanses of Cavendish and
Greenwich—both part of Prince Edward
Island National Park (www.parkscanada.
gc.ca/princeedwardisland)—to the “singing
sands” of Basin Head (www.tourismpei.
com/provincial-park/basin-head), there is a
beach to suit every taste. Tourists continu-
ing cross-country, though, don’t have to
wait until they hit the Paciic to take the
plunge again.
Witness Wasaga Beach on Georgian
Bay (www.wasagabeach.com ), the world’s
longest freshwater strand; or Lake
Winnipeg’s aptly-named Grand Beach
(www.grandbeachtourism.com ), complete
with 12-m-high (39-ft.) sand dunes. Then
there are the beaches of Saskatchewan’s
Little Manitou Lake where it’s never a case
of sink or swim—the water has a high
saline content that allows you to loat
efortlessly (www.manitoubeach.ca ). Based
on the destination, activities can range
from swimming and sandcastle-building to
organized entertainment and educational
programs.
BOATING
Visitors who would rather be on the water
than in it are spoiled for choice as well.
Canoeing, a quintessentially Canadian
pastime, is popular, especially in Ontario
where the longest network of interconnect-
ing canoe routes on earth awaits. Ready to
amp things up? Whether you brave waves
generated by Fundy’s record-smashing tides
in the far east or churning whitewater rapids
in the wild west, rafting is a rush. For the
ultimate adventure, soak in the scenery—
and get plain soaked—on an extended
rafting expedition down a challenging river
in the Yukon or Northwest Territories.
If ishing is your idea of fun, boat
operators—both on oceans and interior
waterways—will happily hook you up.
Multi-taskers will be pleased to hear that it’s
also easy to combine boating with world-
class wildlife watching. From the seat of a
tour vessel or your own kayak, you can
admire beluga whales in northern Manitoba,
ogle bowhead whales and tusked narwhals
in Nunavut, or commune with the orcas in
Johnstone Strait of Vancouver Island.
Newfoundland’s Notre Dame Bay promises
a double delight; whales there, humpbacks
among them, often come with a side order
of icebergs.

AUTUMN
Thanks to bountiful harvests and brilliant
foliage, fall is an ideal travel time. Just arrive
early if you’re venturing beyond major
locales. Outlying tour operators, and even
lodgings, might close after Canadian
Thanksgiving—Columbus Day in the U.S.—
and not reopen until May.
FALL FLAVOURS
Nationwide, vintners toast the grape harvest
by popping corks and hosting festivals that
feature winery tours, tastings, seminars,
food pairings and the like. The largest of the
lot—the Niagara Wine Festival, held in the
heart of Ontario wine country—bridges three
September weekends (www.niagarawine
festival.com). B.C. counters in early October
with the Fall Okanagan Wine Festival, a
10-day fete in the famously fertile Okanagan
Valley (www.thewinefestivals.com).
Nova Scotia’s burgeoning wine industry
also shows of with open houses and the
occasional grape stomp. For a diferent spin
on the harvest theme, visit a U-pick apple
orchard, negotiate a corn maze, or attend an
canada
EXPERIENCE CANADA FROM COAST TO COAST TO COAST
Supported Self Guided & Small Group Active Holidays
1-866-305-2257
47 William St, Ottawa (ON) K1N 6Z9
agricultural event in the province’s
Annapolis Valley. Top contenders are the
Hants County Exhibition, a September
ixture since 1765 (www.hantscountyex.com ),
and the Pumpkin Festival, a quirky October
afair that begins with a pumpkin weigh-in
and ends with a race involving boats crafted
from giant pumpkins (www.worldsbiggest
pumpkins.com ).
FLAMBOYANT FOLIAGE
It’s not only foodies and farm fans who
appreciate autumn here. Canada ranks high
on any leaf peeper’s bucket list because the
blend of deciduous trees creates a remark-
able range of colours. Once contrasting
stands of evergreen and a backdrop of blue
water are added to the equation, the results
are extraordinary. Although beautiful across
Canada, the iery display tends to be best in
the central and eastern portions of the
country from the third week of September
until mid-October.
Québec’s Laurentian Mountains and the
Gaspé Peninsula ofer spectacular fall road
trips, as do New Brunswick’s Fundy Coast
and the St. John River Valley where
HIKING / BACKPACKING
CYCLING
PADDLING
MOUNTAINEERING
WOMEN’S ADVENTURES
GREATCANADIANTRAILS.COM
39
weathered bridges and barns enhance the
postcard-worthy palette. Cape Breton’s
Cabot Trail is a feast for ears and eyes since
peak colours coincide with the music-
oriented Celtic Colours International
Festival in mid-October (www.celtic-
colours.com ). For a painterly perspective,
drive into Ontario’s Algonquin Park or
ride the Algoma Central Railroad (www.
agawacanyontourtrain.com) to see scenery
that inspired the Group of Seven.
DEGREES OF DIFFERENCE
Big-name attractions can be equally
fabulous in diferent seasons. Consider
Ontario’s Rideau Canal. In warm weather,
this UNESCO World Heritage Site is beloved
by boaters; in the coldest months, a 7.8-km
(4.85-mi.) stretch in central Ottawa becomes
the world’s largest naturally frozen skating
rink. Niagara Falls is another case in point.
Summer’s iconic cascades resemble
supersized ice sculptures in winter; rushing
melt-water lends extra oomph in spring
while the proximity of so much ine Niagara
wine adds an intoxicating element in
autumn.
40

GRIZZLY BEAR, YT • SHUTTERSTOCK/MARTIN MICHAEL RUDLOF

WILD Canada is renowned for her majestic geology. But our

nation is also deined by an incredible variety of
CREATURES creatures who inhabit the snow-capped mountains, the
vast prairies, the lake-speckled Canadian Shield and
OF CANADA BY HANS TAMMEMAGI
lengthy coastlines. Here are some of these iconic
animals, and where—if you’re alert—you can spot them.

FURRY BEASTS
Canada is blessed with several species of
bear. The iercest are the grizzlies, who
reside mostly in the western and north-
western part of the country in forested and
mountainous areas. Grizzlies can be seen
from spring to fall (they hibernate in
winter) on cruises along the Great Bear
Rainforest or on several guide-led outings.
They can also be viewed in sanctuaries at
Grouse Mountain, Vancouver, and Kicking
Horse Resort near Golden, B.C.
Black bears, smaller than grizzlies
although still formidable, are found
throughout Canada and it’s not unusual to
spot them while driving in remote areas or
canoeing. Their fur can be black, brown and
occasionally even white, such as with the
ghostly kermode or spirit bear found along
the central and northern B.C. coast.
Although black bears, like grizzlies, are shy
and generally avoid humans, if you
encounter one, keep a safe distance away.
Polar bears are white like the snow of
their northern habitat. Beware, they are not
shy. In Churchill, Manitoba, the “Polar Bear
Capital of the World,” you can take a tour
from mid-October to early November
aboard a large-wheeled tundra vehicle that
lets you safely get close to these powerful,
attractive animals.
Nothing is more evocative of Canadian
wilderness than the spine-tingling howl of
a wolf. The largest members of the dog
family, wolves hunt in packs of six to ten
throughout remote areas. You can learn

FOX KITS, SK • SHUTTERSTOCK/PICTUREGUY
about wolves, and even go for walks with
them, at the Northern Lights Wolf Centre in
Golden, B.C. At Algonquin Provincial Park in
Ontario, park rangers organize “Wolf
Howls” where you can imitate a howl, and
hope to receive answering cries.
DEER, OMEGA PARK, QC • SHUTTERSTOCK/MARK BRUXELLE
BIG HOOFED ANIMALS
Nothing sets the pulse beating like the sight
of a large bull moose with enormous antlers
stretching 1.8 m (6 ft.) across. The largest
member of the deer family, moose are
present in most forested wilderness areas.
Adept swimmers, they are often seen in
41
wetlands. Gros Morne National Park,
Newfoundland is an excellent viewing area
all year. Bull moose can be aggressive,
particularly during the autumn rut. Drive
carefully in moose country, especially at
night; moose encounters can cause serious
damage.
Once large herds of bison/bufalo
thundered across the plains of North America
providing livelihood for Indigenous Peoples,
but they were hunted close to extinction
during the 19th and 20th centuries. Since then
they have made a partial recovery and herds
can be viewed in Wood Bufalo National
Park in northeastern Alberta and southern
Northwest Territories, as well as Prince
Albert National Park in Saskatchewan, and
in Riding Mountain National Park, Manitoba.
It is awe-inspiring, but rare, to see an
immense herd of handsomely antlered
caribou stretching far across the tundra.
From late April to early May, Arctic Haven
Wilderness Lodge in Nunavut will take you
to watch the migration of approximately
350,000 caribou.
42
BIGHORN SHEEP, LAKE MINNEWANKA, AB • SHUTTERSTOCK/NATALIA PUSHCHINA
SWIMMERS
The beaver, Canada’s national symbol, is a
big, aquatic rodent with a large lat tail like
a paddle and prized thick fur. Found in
waterways throughout Canada, beavers are
industrious, felling trees with their sharp
buckteeth and building lodges and dams.
Primarily nocturnal, beavers are best
viewed at dusk. A Beaver Boardwalk winds
through wetlands and past a beaver pond in
Hinton, Alberta.
Beluga whales, not much bigger than
dolphins and white in colour, are called the
canaries of the sea for their constant
singing. Every summer about 3,000 belugas
gather in the Churchill River delta in
northern Manitoba. You can get close by
boat tour and listen to them chattering via a
hydrophone. Belugas are so gentle you can
swim among them—a once-in-a-lifetime
experience.
Orca, a.k.a. killer whales, cruise all
oceans, but are particularly abundant
around Johnstone Strait near northeastern
Vancouver Island and in the Salish Sea near
Victoria. Extremely intelligent animals who
live in matrilineal pods, their high dorsal
ins slice elegantly through the water.
Numerous boat tours are ofered. You may
also see grey whales up to 15 m (49 ft.) long,
especially around Toino during their
migration twice a year in March and
October, as well as dolphins, seals and sea
lions.
The east coast and the St. Lawrence
River are also prime sources for whale
watching. Every summer some 15 species of
whales including minke, humpback,
inback and the right whale come to the Bay
of Fundy to mate, play and feast on the
bountiful food churned up twice daily by
the powerful tides.
Salmon live in both the Atlantic and
Paciic oceans and are renowned for
spawning, that is ighting their way
upstream to lay eggs and die in the same
freshwater location where they were
hatched. Spawning salmon, the lifeblood of
the west coast, provide food for bears, foxes,
wolves, eagles and more, who then fertilize
the forest with their droppings. Spawning
salmon can be seen in fall and the irst half
of winter at many locations, often far
inland.
FLYERS
Featured on our dollar coin, loons are
duck-sized birds, regally patterned in black
and white. Excellent swimmers, they catch
small ish in fast underwater chases. Other
than in the extreme north, their eerie,
echoing calls can be heard on numerous
lakes across Canada, especially in the
Canadian Shield.
The bald eagle, a noble raptor with a
2-m (6.6-ft.) wingspan, builds enormous
nests in tall trees across most of North
America. The bald eagle, with its white head
and tail, is particularly abundant in western
British Columbia. The best time to see
eagles in B.C. is in fall and the irst half of
winter when they gather, sometimes in the
thousands, at spawning rivers such as at
Brackendale and the upper Harrison River.
Canada geese are so common across the
country they have become a pest on some
golf courses and parks. In the air, however,
they ly in an elegant V-formation. Once
 43

migratory, many now reside here year-

round.
There are three major north-south
migratory lyways (Paciic, Central, Atlantic)
and nearly 600 Important Bird Areas in
Canada (www.ibacanada.ca ). At Oak
Hammock Marsh, Manitoba, some days the
sky is dark with birds and quacking
reverberates like thunder. The Belleisle
Marsh in Nova Scotia is excellent for
summertime viewing of waterfowl,
pied-billed grebe, short-eared owl, northern
harrier, bobolink and warbler species, and
there are countless bird classes found in the
Bay of Fundy area. Beautiful locks of
gannets and colonies of puins can be
found on Bonaventure Island and the
Magdalen Islands in Québec, as well as at
the Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve in
Newfoundland.

MUCH MORE
This is but a small sampling, a teaser, to
encourage you to get outdoors and see the
vast panoply of creatures that live in
Canada.
KILLER WHALE, VICTORIA, BC • CTC/PRINCE OF WHALES WHALE WATCHING

For your guide to the adventure of a lifetime: 1-855-NUNAVIK | NUNAVIK-TOURISM.COM

44

RV CAMPING ON THE BRUCE PENINSULA, ON • GO RVING CANADA

YOU SET THE For many people, the freedom of the open road is an irresistible
draw. In 2017, to celebrate Canada’s sesquicentennial, Parks
LIFESTYLE Canada is ofering free day admission to its 200-plus national
parks, historic sites and marine conservation areas across the
IN AN RV BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
country. So, this is the year to try out the RV lifestyle—get out
and explore this vast nation, from coast-to-coast-to-coast
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca).

RV enthusiasts say they love the
lexibility and freedom that’s unlike any
other holiday experience. Rather than a trip
that focuses on the destination, RVing puts
the journey at the heart of the vacation,
creating memories from start to inish.
Downturns in the weather or a sudden
change in travel plans won’t derail valuable
getaway time. For families, a dry place to
wait out a storm can be an on-the-road
lifesaver. For seniors, it can be a simple
matter of safety and comfort.
Canada is known for its wilderness; a
country rich in unspoiled destinations that
are often made easily accessible when
travelling by RV. The driving routes in the
Yukon are tailor-made for travellers
interested in Gold Rush history, First
Nations culture and quirky small towns
like Carcross and Dawson City. In the
compact Maritime region, RVers can easily
skip from watching New Brunswick’s Bay
of Fundy tides, to indulging in a lobster
dinner on Prince Edward Island and then
moving southwest to explore the
music-happening city of Halifax and the
artisan-rich small towns like Chester and
Lunenburg along the south shore of Nova
Scotia. Québec’s Gaspé region was recog-
nized by National Geographic Traveler as
one of “Canada’s 50 Places of a Lifetime.”
The forests, lakes and rivers of Ontario and
Québec call out to anglers, hikers and those
who love a good dose of wilderness. In the
west, the Rocky Mountain parks are
popular destinations for travellers looking
for dramatic scenery, wildlife and star-
splashed skies. Across the country,
travelling by RV can also be a way to explore
festivals and special events in large cities
by staying in nearby campgrounds.
There’s an RV for every budget and every
lifestyle. The most popular RV entry point is
with a small tent trailer or camper, some-
thing easy to manoeuvre and tow behind
an SUV or minivan. Once bitten by the
lifestyle, RVers often “move up” to larger
ifth-wheel units or motorhomes, often
taking along the comforts of home. With
extra space at the push of a button, RVs
contain queen and king-sized beds, leather
sofas, gourmet kitchens and even ireplaces.
An RV vacation—staying at campsites
and cooking meals rather than eating out—
can be very budget-friendly. Cooking
s’mores and singing songs around a
campire, grilling dinner lakeside or
playing board games while staying dry
on a rainy day, all create precious family
memories.
The Go RVing Canada website is a
one-stop resource about RVing, with
information on buying and renting RVs,
listings of RV dealers and RV parks and
campgrounds across Canada, and about
the RV lifestyle. Consumer tools include
how-to videos, a trip-planning guide, the
RV afordability guide and RV camping
themed newsletter, along with a choose-
your-RV feature helping users decide what
sort of RV and type of trip best its their
travel style (www.gorving.ca).
 Kids want to stare at the
stars past their bedtime,
to play not have playdates,
to wander and roam free.
B R I N G B AC K W I L D H O O D
46

CALGARY STAMPEDE PARADE, AB • SHUTTERSTOCK

ABORIGINAL Like ceremonial smoke wafting across sacred lands,

Aboriginal tourism is quietly evolving throughout
TOURISM LEADS Canada’s provinces and territories, and attracting
vigourous international tourism eforts into Canada.
INTERNATIONAL According to the Aboriginal Tourism Association of
Canada (ATAC) and Destination Canada, this market
VISITS BY GREGORY B. GALLAGHER
sector is becoming a powerful and compelling option
for foreign travellers, as well as homegrown vacationers,
seeking viable opportunities for their dollar.

Tribal interests nationwide are estab-
lishing a rich menu of unique activities for
even the most travelled clients. First Nations
travel and tourism products and services
ofer lasting memories steeped in the
dynamic cultures of the most ancient
people of Canada.
Timing is paramount for meaningful
success in the volatile tourism industry,
and it appears Aboriginal tourism is blessed
in this regard, heading for a record year of
fortuitous happenings coast-to-coast-to-
coast. Following the dramatic Parks Canada
discoveries of the long-lost Franklin ships,
Erebus and Terror, over the last two years,
interest in the North is ever more robust.
The 2015 federal election in Canada also
relects a newly-charged national Aboriginal
consciousness with the election of ten First
Nations Members of Parliament, a irst in
the history of the country.
WEST
The Crossing at Ghost River is an enchant-
ed overnight Aboriginal adventure in the
Alberta foothills between Calgary and Banf.
Guides lead visitors on a journey spanning
notions of time and culture, highlighted
by traditional drumming and unique story-
telling, walking through captivating
landscapes to learn about the healing plants
growing underfoot, and watching authentic
Aboriginal cuisine being made. Choose to
stay in their comfortable lodge for one or
two nights, set on 145 picturesque acres,
or book your corporate retreat and mix
business with pleasure Rockies-style
(www.crossingexperience.ca).
Spirit Bear Lodge, in British Columbia’s
tiny central coast community of Klemtu, is
150 nautical miles by loat plane from
Vancouver Island’s northern-most town of
Port Hardy. Protected from the Paciic Ocean
tumult by the largest intact coastal temper-
ate rainforest on the planet, travellers make
the efort to view one of our world’s great
natural mysteries—the kermode or “spirit
bear.” A visit here also allows you to encoun-
ter orca whales, grizzly bears, eagles, ravens
and a host of other inhabitants of this
remarkable locale (www.spiritbear.com).
CENTRAL
The Canadian Museum for Human Rights
(CMHR) opened in Winnipeg, Manitoba in
2014, and has already won dozens of
awards, including the National Cultural
 47

Tourism Award from the Travel Industry
Association of Canada (TIAC). Izzie Asper’s
lifelong dream beckons visitors to architect
Antoine Predock’s astounding exterior
design, modelled after ice, clouds and
stone, and set in a ield of sweet grass at the
legendary Forks of the Red River. Venture
indoors where designer Ralph Applebaum’s
amazing interactive installations highlight
First Nations culture in a mesmerizing
journey through time and geography,
language and tradition. Don’t miss the “Our
Canada, My Story” video presentation
celebrating Canada’s 150th Anniversary, the
Witness Blanket exhibition or the muse-
um’s on-site boutique where exciting fair
trade and handmade mementos celebrating
Indigenous culture worldwide can be
purchased (www.humanrights.ca).
If your spirit needs renewal, go west to
visit Saskatchewan’s Northern Plains
People. Body/mind/spirit experiences
unfold at the Wanuskewin Heritage Park;
witness a bufalo hunt and explore
medicine wheel circles to learn about the
relationship locals maintain with healing
plants, culinary wisdom, and the cycles of
the animals (www.wanuskewin.com).
February is Aboriginal Storytelling Month,
and there is no better place to experience
this rich tradition than at the Saskatchewan
Indian Cultural Centre in Saskatoon
(www.sicc.sk.ca).
EAST
Follow the ceremonial smoke of hospitality
east to Ontario, home to Manitoulin Island,
the largest freshwater lake island in the
world. Indigenous experiences range from
soft adventure to wilderness eco-adventures
and educational interpretive tours. High
on anyone’s list should be the Great Spirit
Circle Trail’s cornucopia of packages, such
as Medicine Walks, Legends of the Land
Riding Trail, Demwe Cycling Tour, or the
luxurious Horse and Teepee overnight
adventure, which leaves the Honora Bay
Riding Stable at noon and returns the day
after at 2:00 in the afternoon. Savour the
campire dinner, medicine walk, storytell-
ing and drumming around the ire, as well
as swimming with horses and breakfast the
next morning (www.circletrail.com).
Also on Manitoulin is the annual
Wiikwemikoong Cultural Festival. Eastern
North America's oldest competition
powwow is running this year from August 5
through 7 on Canada's only oicially
recognized Unceded Territory. Traditional
dancing, hand drumming, authentic Native
cuisine and crafts with interactive workshops
abound. Plus you can even purchase the new
Anishinaabemowin Language App from the
Google Play Store, featuring 32 categories in
Three Fires Confederacy languages of Odawa,
Ojibwe and Pottawatami. Wikwemikong
Tourism hosts several cultural tour packages
that showcase the lifestyles and traditions
of the Three Fires People. Satisfy your need
for culture and outdoor adventure in one of
Canada's largest Indigenous territories.
Just outside the UNESCO site of Old
Québec City, you may discover what the
Huron-Wendake community calls “the
history we never told you.” Stay in an
authentic Aboriginal 4-star boutique hotel
called Hôtel-Musée Premières Nations,
gracefully built along the banks of the
Akiawenrahk (St.Charles River). Inspired
from traditional longhouses, units are
constructed with natural materials such as

A gathering place to
celebrate our traditions
and share our stories
Take a break from your world… and experience ours!

WELCOME TO THE KWANLIN DÜN

CULTURAL CENTRE
where we celebrate the culture and traditions of the Kwanlin Dün
First Nation. Come explore our exhibits, experience amazing
festivals, meet Artists in Residence, and take a tour of our
inspirational Centre with a local guide.

1171 Front Street • Whitehorse Yukon • www.kdcc.ca • 867-456-5322

48
stone, leather and wood. Or invite the whole
family to stay in a longhouse, the First
Nations symbol of family, hospitality and
the legendary welcome of Indigenous
Peoples worldwide. This option encourages
visitors to experience the myths and
legends, to taste the traditional bread
(bannock), have a ire keeper tend the
embers as well as your dreams throughout
the night, plus you’ll have a regular room in
the hotel for modern conveniences, and
breakfast the next day at La Traite restaurant
(www.tourismewendake.ca).
MARITIMES
Mi’kmaq powwows on Prince Edward
Island’s Lennox Island ignite in late July;
the hungry crowds go to the Aboriginal
Food Festival (www.lennoxisland.com). The
Indian Art & Craft store makes its home on
the peaceful shores of famous Malpeque Bay.
Across this bay in Nova Scotia, elders
share stories about creation at the
Wagmatcook Culture and Heritage Centre
(www.wagmatcook.com). Listen to their
ancient tales teaching how to live properly,
how animals interact with the elements,
and details about powerful ceremonial tools
of their society—like the medicine wheel.
Less than two hours from Halifax, view
petroglyphs created by the Mi’kmaq First
Nations People in the 18th and 19th centuries
at Kejimkujik National Park, where it is
also possible to camp out under the stars
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca ).
New Brunswick calls everyone interest-
ed in attending powwows to a full seasonal
menu of options, from St. Mary’s First
Nation Powwow which takes place June 16
to 18 at the Devon Indian Reserve #24, to the
Pabineau First Nation Powwow at the new
Flying Eagle Memorial Powwow Grounds
during the irst weekend of July, or the Eel
Ground First Nation Powwow in mid-July
(www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca).
Newfoundland and Labrador summon
outdoor adventurers to their majestic
Torngat Mountains Inuit-led Base Camp
experience, immersing participants in the
culture of this dreamy geography and giving
access to stunning wildlife viewing. The
highest peaks in Canada east of the Rockies
frame a magical mix of jords, rivers, lood
plains, and coastal wilderness. There is no
place on the planet like the Torngat
Mountains and the Base Camp trek is a
classic one-of-a-kind memory for travellers
(www.thetorngats.com).
NORTH
The Yukon’s Whitehorse waterfront is the
site for this year’s Adäka Cultural Festival
held at the Kwanlin Dün Cultural Centre
from June 30 to July 6 (www.kwanlindun
culturalcentre.com). This popular event
mixes traditional and contemporary musical
performers and creative artists from local
First Nations tribes, as well as guests from
Alaska, Greenland, B.C. and Northwest
Territories. The mélange of entertainment,
together with unique workshops and
handmade crafts—imbued with the
infectious Yukon spirit—guarantees visitors
memorable fun (www.travelyukon.com).
If Nunavut and the Canadian Arctic
are on your bucket list, contact Adventure
Canada for access to Canada’s northern
passages aboard a cruise ship (www.
adventurecanada.com ). Follow whales,
seals and narwhals in small Zodiac boats
up close, photograph endangered polar
bears, or bask in the other-worldliness
of the aurora borealis in the comfort of
your ship.

CAPE D’OR LIGHTHOUSE • NS TOURISM/SCOTT MUNN
A TASTE OF Culinary tourism is a force of nature
in Canada. From walking food tours
CANADA BY MARGARET SWAINE
of cities to tasty rural trails, there’s
a cornucopia of good eats on the
road. Creative young chefs
reinterpret Canada’s regional
dishes, showcase ethnic inluences
and play with exotic spicing.
49
Heirloom produce from local farms, indige-
nous wild foods foraged from the forests,
organic meats and fresh seafood ished
from the oceans and lakes are among their
cherished ingredients. Sustainable,
artisanal and locavore are their buzz words.
BRITISH COLUMBIA
BOUNTY FROM THE OCEAN,
FORESTS & LAND
Specialties on the menu in British Columbia
include wild salmon, golden honey mussels,
spot prawns, geoduck, BC bison, Fraser
Valley duck and Salt Spring Island lamb.
There is a wide range of guided culinary
tours—sometimes led by chefs—in southern
B.C., particularly near the Okanagan Valley,
Cowichan Valley and Fraser Valley. City
tasting tours in Victoria, Vancouver and
Whistler visit restaurants and culinary
neighbourhoods (www.hellobc.com).
Cornucopia Whistler, celebrating 21 years
in November, is an annual 11-day indul-
gence of local food and drink, that pairs
homegrown chefs with top B.C. producers,
breweries, distilleries, and wineries (www.
whistlercornucopia.com).
Kissa Tanto, a jewel of a place that fuses
Japanese with Italian in Vancouver’s
Chinatown, was named Canada’s Best New
Restaurant in 2016 by Air Canada’s enRoute
magazine (www.kissatanto.com).
Of the Eaten Track ofers fun foodie
tours such as the Gourmet Ice Cream Tour
of Vancouver and the Craft Beer and Culinary
Tour of Victoria (www.oftheeatentrack
tours.ca/vancouver). On the Wild Foraging
– BC Rainforest Lunch & Walk, ofered by
Swallow Tail Culinary Tours, participants
discover native B.C. ingredients in the
forest: iddleheads, licorice fern, big leaf
maple lowers, nettles, oyster mushrooms
and wild chamomile, to name a few (www.
swallowtail.ca). Edible Canada on Granville
Island ofers a restaurant, artisan retail
shop and an appetizing selection of
culinary tours, events and adventures in
Vancouver (www.ediblecanada.com).
THE PRAIRIES
GRASSLAND GRAINS AND
RANCHLAND MEATS
Manitoba’s Parkland region has a self-guided
Flavour Trail with about 14 trail stops along
the way, including Elkhorn Resort where
local specialties such as Northern Manitoba
pickerel, wild rice and saskatoon berries
are on the menu (www.lavourtrail.ca).
50
NEW GLASGOW LOBSTER BOIL • TOURISM PEI/YVONNE DUIVENVOORDEN
In season, Winnipeg’s Exchange District BIZ
ofers tours to some of their delectable one-
of-a-kind restaurants (www.exchangedistrict.
org/tours/food-tours). West End BIZ covers
the eateries in the west of the city (www.
westendbiz.ca/visiting-the-west-end/tours/
food-tours-4). Eating and drinking tours of
the downtown area feature patio crawls,
moveable feasts and even breakfast samplings
(www.downtownwinnipegbiz.com/tours).
The rolling grassland plains of
Saskatchewan are best known for growing
grains. The most exotic is wild rice, an
aquatic grass grown in shallow waters.
Saskatoon berries are baked into all kinds
of desserts at places such as The Berry Barn,
near the shores of the South Saskatchewan
River (www.berrybarn.ca).
In Alberta, as Canada’s ranch heartland,
elk, bison, wild boar, caribou and beef—
which many refer to as Canadian Rocky
Mountain Cuisine—are plentiful. Canadian
Rocky Mountain Resorts has their own 500
acre game ranch to provide for their four
restaurants in the city of Calgary and dining
at the lodges in Banf, Lake Louise and
Emerald Lake (www.crmr.com/mountain-city-
restaurants-rockies). In Calgary, at The Guild,
Chef Ryan O’Flynn, who spent time learning
cooking techniques from the Dene, ofers
Indigenous-inspired Jacob’s Ladder Bison
served Saskatoon style with wild rice and
prairie corn (www.theguildrestaurant.com).
ONTARIO
COUNTLESS TASTE TRAILS
AND FOOD FESTIVALS
Home to the Ontario Pork Council,
LE CORDON BLEU CULINARY ARTS INSTITUTE, OTTAWA, ON
Stratford, famous for the Stratford Festival,
boasts a Bacon & Ale Trail along with a
Chocolate Trail and seasonal trails such
as the Savour Stratford Maple Trail.
On Prince Edward County’s Taste Trail,
visitors can pop into a cidery, brewery, or
ice cream shop for a cold treat or sample
ine pinots and chardonnays at wineries
in this picturesque area on the north shore
of Lake Ontario (www.tastetrail.ca). Check
out the cool cocktail and food scene at the
Drake Devonshire (www.drakedevonshire.ca),
enjoy fresh laid eggs for breakfast at one of
the bucolic B&Bs such as Wilfrid Boutique
Farmhouse (www.thewilfrid.com ) or sign
up for a cooking class to learn the tools of
the trade at The Waring House (www.waring
house.com ).
Butter tarts were a staple of pioneer
cooking in both Upper and Lower Canada
(now Ontario and Québec). The townships of
Minto, Southgate and Wellington North’s
self-guided Butter Tarts and Buggies Trail
combines these sweetly delicious pastries
with insights into the Mennonite culture
(www.buttertartsandbuggies.com).
Ottawa is home to the only Canadian
campus of the renowned Le Cordon Bleu
French cooking school (www.lcbottawa.com).
C’est Bon’s gourmet walking tours are an
ideal introduction to the National Capital
Region’s vibrant food scene (www.cest
boncooking.ca/gourmet-food-tours).
Ontario has some 450 annual culinary-
themed festivals and events listed in their
on-line calendar (www.ontarioculinary.com).
QUÉBEC
A GOLDMINE OF
FRENCH-CANADIAN
SPECIALTIES
New France’s irst inhabitants ate hearty
meals to cope with the rigours of everyday
life and the cold winter climate—evolving
a distinct home-cooking style over the
centuries, that became Québec classics,
such as: tourtière, meat and pork pie; cipaille,
a layered wild meat pie; fèves au lard, baked
beans; cretons, a fatty pork spread; tarte au
sucre, sugar pie; and soupe aux gourganes,
broad bean soup (www.quebecoriginal.com/
en-ca/food#local-specialties).
Maple syrup plays a big role in tradi-
tional food with more than 10,000 produc-
ers in the province. In spring, Québécois
gather at some 400 cabanes à sucre (sugar
shacks) to enjoy baked beans, oreilles des
crisse (crispy pork rinds), and pancakes

all drenched in maple syrup (www.quebec
original.com/en).
A dish that has gained North American
recognition is poutine—french fries topped
with cheese curds, then slathered in gravy.
On the Route to Gourmet Delights in central
Québec (www.tourismecentreduquebec.com),
Fromagerie Lemaire ofers poutine in its
country-style restaurant and still warm curd
cheese to eat while watching the cheese-
makers at work through a panoramic window.
From Petite-Rivière-Saint-François to La
Malbaie, epicureans treat themselves to a
gastronomic adventure on the Charlevoix
Flavour Trail which features some 23
specialty producers and 15 restaurants
(www.tourisme-charlevoix.com/en/what-
to-do/routes-and-circuits/lavour-trail).
The Eastern Townships, renowned for
its gourmet cuisine, has over 100 “Creators
of Flavours,” as well as a number of Creative
Chef Restaurants and Village Cafés—brands
created by Tourism Eastern Townships to
recognize special products, agritourism,
cafés and restaurants in the region (www.
easterntownships.org/restaurant).
Montréal counts more than 400 chefs
including many top names. But it is also
famous for bagels (St-Viateur and
Fairmount) and smoked meat (Schwartz’
and Main Deli). The city is host to around
40 annual Food Festivals and events, from
the most famous Montréal Highlights
Festival to La Poutine Week (montreal.
lapoutineweek.com).
In the Laurentians, the Chemin du Terroir
is a signposted trail that takes travellers
through more than 226 km of country
backroads and byways, with delicious food
and drink discoveries at every turn (www.
laurentides.com/en/chemin-du-terroir).
THE MARITIMES
THE GLORY OF SEAFOOD
The culinary scene has exploded in Nova
Scotia. The Chowder Trail merged into The
Seafood Trail, bringing together a collection
of restaurant, retail and ishery experiences
that highlight the province’s incredible
seafood products (www.novascotiaculinary
trails.com/seafood-trail/overview). The
Highwayman in Halifax, named one of
Canada’s Best New Restaurants in 2016
by enRoute magazine, is a restobar that
celebrates the provinces seaside ties
(www.highwaymanhfx.com).
In New Brunswick, travellers can
build their own trail to farmers’ markets,
51
restaurants and sites via the website (www.
tourismnewbrunswick.ca ). There are tasty
snacks hard to ind anywhere else, like
dulse—a salty sea treat—and hearty Acadian
dishes. Visitors to Acadian Sturgeon and
Caviar will meet owner Dr. Cornel Ceapa
(a PhD in sturgeon biology) who raises
sturgeon to sell around the world.
The PEI Flavours Culinary Trail guides
people to the Island’s distinct regions, each
with its own culinary traditions, as well as
to restaurants, farmers, ishers and local
markets (www.peilavours.ca). In Fortune
Bay, long-time Islander and Food Network
Chef Michael Smith has transformed the
restaurant at The Inn at Bay Fortune into
FireWorks, where a 25-foot brick-lined,
wood-burning ireplace in the centre of the
restaurant is the anchor for the “Fire Kitchen”
—every dish is cooked over ire (www.
innatbayfortune.com). The International
Shellish Festival includes shucking competi-
tions using local Malpeque, one of the world’s
inest oysters; about ten million are harvested
every year (www.peishellish.com).
BEIGE
Newfoundland is known for its seafood
and traditional dishes such as salt ish and
brewis (made with hard tack or dry bread)
and Jiggs dinner (boiled salted beef and Not on your itinerary.
vegetables). At remote and gorgeous Fogo
Island Inn, everything coming out of the Designed for those who love open
Inn’s kitchen is house made: caribou spaces, open thinking and open
sausages, pickled quail eggs, grainy expression, this is where travel
creates possibilities. Where style
mustards and berry-jewelled breakfast
is necessary. Connectivity keep up
scones (www.fogoislandinn.ca). with you. Social scenes are vibrant.
And the only direction is forward.
THE NORTH This is Aloft Hotels.
WILD HARVESTS UNDER
THE MIDNIGHT SUN
In the Yukon, Michele Genest and Beverley
Gray are authors of the books The Boreal Book now at alofthotels.com
Gourmet and The Boreal Herbal, respectively.
They explain what you can harvest in the
100+ hotels open now including
Land of the Midnight Sun. At Gray’s Aroma Calgary, Montreal, and Toronto
Borealis Herb Shop in Whitehorse, visitors
can arrange to join her on a foraging outing
(www.aromaborealis.com). Michele Genest
ofers workshops and events, along with her
latest cook book, The Boreal Feast (www.
borealgourmet.com). In the Northwest
Territories “Shopping in the Boreal Forest”
is an interpretive walk with biologist
Rosanna Strong (www.experienceyellow
knife.com/packaged-tours/#tour-73).
Whatever their fancy, wherever travellers ©2017 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All
Rights Reserved. Aloft and its logos are the trademarks of
go in Canada, they are sure to ind their taste Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.
nirvana.
52

LE SCANDINAVE SPA, MONT-TREMBLANT, QC

FIND YOUR Are you seeking a rural retreat? A haven by the sea? A
getaway where you can enjoy tapas in your bathrobe?
PERFECT SPA BY ANITA DRAYCOTT
Perhaps an ancient Asian-inspired ritual or the rejuvenating
beneits of taking the waters? From coast to coast, there’s a
Canadian spa experience to soothe our body and soul.

COUNTRY CHARM
STE. ANNE’S SPA,
GRAFTON, ON
Tucked into the rolling hills of
Northumberland County, Ste. Anne’s, at
irst glance, looks more like a Scottish
castle than a spa. One enters the rambling
19th century ieldstone estate via a walled
perennial garden. Guests choose from all
sorts of treatments and activities including
moorish mud baths, hiking, painting
classes and yoga. Where else can you make
a bathrobe your uniform during the entire
stay—whether en route to one of your
treatments, while sipping afternoon tea or
enjoying a four-course dinner?
The gluten-free goodies from Ste.
Anne’s Spa Bakery make sweet souvenirs,
especially the tarts, now part of the
Kawarthas Northumberland Butter Tart
Tour (www.steannes.com ).
SPA EASTMAN, EASTMAN, QC
Located in the Eastern Townships, about an
hour from Montréal, seven pavilions house
over 40 distinctive rooms around a pond
with views of Mont Orford. The Health
Immersion Package starts the session with
a health coach to determine goals, naturo-
pathic and kinesiology consultations, and
a health routine package to take home. The
regimen includes three gourmet “tonic”
meals and numerous daily activities such
as hikes, itness classes, workshops and the
use of various baths, pools and saunas. Spa
Eastman was known as the irst health and
wellness resort in Canada when it opened
in 1977; it was recently awarded “The Best
Spa in Canada” by Spainder’s 2015 Wellness
Travel Awards in all categories combined.
They also operate the urban Spa Eastman
Montréal (www.spa-eastman.com).
MOUNTAIN RETREATS
WILLOW STREAM SPA,
FAIRMONT BANFF SPRINGS, AB
The Willow Stream Spa pays homage to the
natural mineral springs that irst beckoned
travellers to this “Castle in the Rockies”
more than a century ago, while drawing
energy from the surrounding Rocky
Mountain setting. The indoor mineral pool
provides the ultimate in relaxation,
complete with classical music piped in
from below. Outside on the terrace, inhale
the invigorating alpine air while steeping
in the whirlpool. Many treatments
incorporate local ingredients such as pine,
rose oil and mountain lavender (www.
fairmont.com/banf-springs/willow-stream).
FOUR SEASONS RESORT AND
RESIDENCES WHISTLER, BC
The Four Seasons Spa ofers high altitude
therapies at the base of Blackcomb
Mountain—a top ski destination with
breathtaking scenery. The signature treat-
ment starts with an exfoliating scrub using
maple syrup and brown sugar. Next, while
cocooned in a warm clay and algae body
wrap, a therapist massages your hair and
scalp with Moroccan oil. A full body massage
using detoxifying butter completes the
pampered journey. Treat the kids to a Glacier
Spa fruit-scented manicure and pedicure
(www.fourseasons.com/whistler/spa).

BY THE SEA
THE SPA AT THE ALGONQUIN,
ST. ANDREWS, NB
The Algonquin Resort opened in the seaside
resort town of St. Andrews in 1889. In 2014,
after a $50 million renovation, the resort
reopened as the irst Canadian property
in Marriott’s “Autograph Collection.”
Combined with AVEDA products, organic
honey from the resort’s own hives, igures
prominently on the spa menu. Try the
Lavender Honey Facial, Warm Honey Body
Scrub or Warm Honey Manicure and
Pedicure. Honey possesses natural antibac-
terial properties and antioxidants. It is
extremely moisturizing and soothing to the
skin (www.algonquinresort.com/spa).  “liquid gold” waters, piped in from an
THE DOL-ÁS SPA
FOX HARB’R RESORT,
WALLACE, NS
The recently renovated Dol-ás Spa was named
one of the “Top 25 Spas in Canada” in the
2016 Canadian Spa & Wellness Awards.
Owned by the multi-millionaire co-founder
of the Tim Hortons fast food restaurant
chain, the Dol-ás Spa at Fox Harb’r Resort
excels at pampering its clientele. Consider a
massage using stones from the sea in the
outdoor gazebo. The spa ofers a full range
of treatments, including a Men`s Executive
Menu and the Fox Harb’r Signature Facial,
developed exclusively for the resort by
CELLCOSMET, an anti-aging skin care line
from Switzerland (www.foxharbr.com/spa).
ORIENTAL INFLUENCES
SPA OFURO, MORIN-HEIGHTS, QC
Ofuro’s Nordic-style spa ofers replenishing
rituals in several Asia-inspired buildings in
the Laurentian Mountain retreat. Immerse
yourself in a variety of hot and cold indoor
and outdoor pools, steams and saunas. Or
take a dip in the river. Try a shiatsu massage
or consider a Zen pedicure. Prolong your
healthy holiday with a stay in one of ive
guest rooms on the property (www.
spaofuro.com).
TEN SPA AT THE FORT
GARRY HOTEL, WINNIPEG, MB
Pamper yourself like a sultan. Ten Spa in the
Fort Garry Hotel ofers a variety of cleansing
and puriication therapies modelled after
the ancient bathing rituals of the Ottoman
Empire. All hamams begin with Moroccan
53
mint tea and a Turkish delight. After that,
chose from several steamy journeys including
a self-administered salt rub, preceding a
head, scalp and foot massage, olive oil
washes and the application of warm mud.
Add on a facial, manicure, pedicure and
lunch with a glass of bubbly (www.tenspa.ca).
TAKING THE WATERS
TEMPLE GARDENS HOTEL &
SPA, MOOSE JAW, SK
Take a soothing soak any time of the year in
Canada’s largest indoor/outdoor therapeutic
geothermal mineral pool on the rooftop of
the Temple Gardens Hotel & Spa. Similar to
the famous pools in Bath, England, the
ancient underground seabed, contain such
compounds as Epsom salts and a variety of
minerals to soothe weary muscles and
relieve tension.  At the Sun Tree Spa, aquatic
yoga classes take advantage of the water’s
buoyancy to improve lexibility and balance
in an exceptional rooftop Prairie setting.
The spa also practices the ancient healing
art of relexology (www.templegardens.
sk.ca).
Space to live
SCANDINAVE SPAS, FOUR
LOCATIONS ACROSS CANADA
Scandinave Spas are designed so guests
your life
Be inspired by natural light-filled
may relax and rejuvenate by participating
spaces, in-suite kitchens, functional
in a cycle of heat therapies, refreshing cool
rinses and relaxation periods. The pre- workspaces in every guestroom, and
scribed routine: spend about ten minutes spacious spa-inspired bathrooms.
warming your body in a sauna, eucalyptus- Plus, enjoy complimentary
scented steam bath, hot tub or thermal
Rise: Breakfast bar and fast &
waterfall. Heating the body helps increase
blood circulation, which, in turn, cleanses free WiFi during your stay.
by promoting the elimination of toxins.
Then it’s time to close the skin’s pores by Discover Element Hotels in
cooling of beneath a bracing Nordic Vancouver, Calgary, and Toronto.
waterfall or a dip in a cold tub. The third
part of Scandinave’s routine is chill-out Book now at
time. Snooze in the solarium, swing in a elementhotels.com
hammock or cosy up with a good book and
a cup of organic tea. The warming, chilling
and relaxing steps may be repeated as often
as you wish. Most people spend at least
three hours. The optional inal step to
ultimate bliss is a relaxing massage that
promotes circulation and recharges the
body’s cells by releasing toxins.
Scandinave Spas are located in Whistler,
BC, Blue Mountain, ON and in Mont- ©2017 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Preferred Guest, SPG, Element and their logos are the trademarks of
Tremblant and Old Montréal, QC (www. Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.
scandinave.com).
54

BANFF NATIONAL PARK, AB • CTC

A TOAST TO Canadians love a good homegrown drink. Of late, craft breweries,

artisanal distilleries and cideries have blossomed across the nation. Spirits
CANADA BY MARGARET SWAINE
range from the unique Birmingham’s Dill Pickle Vodka to the sublime
Royal Crown Northern Harvest Rye Whisky called out last year by a British
critic as the world’s best whisky. This northern country is also home to
over 700 licenced wineries and is the world’s leading producer of icewine.

BRITISH COLUMBIA
SUNNY WAYS AND SUNNY
VINEYARDS
Sunny Okanagan is the place many
Canadians think about moving to for their
retirement years. The Canadian version of a
Riviera, it has glittering lakes as a backdrop
to ski hills, golf courses, cycling and hiking
routes, and wine trails. Three 10-day annual
wine festivals take place in winter, spring and
fall as well as signature events throughout
the summer (www.thewinefestivals.com).
Winter season mountain-top wine
festivals at Sun Peaks are days illed with
skiing, wine crawls, sparkling brunches and
progressive tastings (www.thewinefestivals.
com/events/festival/4/Winter_Festival).
Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country has some
great signature events: the Half Corked
Marathon in May, an 18 km (11 mi.) run
through beautiful vineyards; Festival of the
Grape in October, with a grape stomping
competition; and Pig Out in April (www.
oliverosoyoos.com).
Many of the wineries have excellent
restaurants and some have great accommo-
dations. Mission Hill’s Terrace Restaurant,
open May to October, ofers an unforgettable
alfresco dining experience overlooking the
vineyards and set against the spectacular
backdrop of Okanagan Lake. Locally-sourced
fare is complemented with herbs and
vegetables from their own varietal gardens,
along with locally foraged ingredients
(www.missionhillwinery.com). Quails’ Gate
ofers lights of wines and locavore meals
in their Old Vines Restaurant and patio
overlooking the same lake (www.quailsgate.
com). The Sonora Room at Burrowing Owl
Estate Winery (www.burrowingowlwine.ca)
and Tinhorn Creek’s Miradoro Restaurant
(www.tinhorn.com) have both breathtaking
views and delectable food. Hester Creek,
one of the oldest wineries in the region, has
a great restaurant, Terraina, and unique
accommodations (www.hestercreek.com).
Spirit Ridge at Nk’Mip Resort was the irst
Aboriginal owned and operated winery
resort in Canada. Here the Osoyoos Indian
Band has created a wine and cultural
experience, bar none (www.spiritridge.ca).
On Vancouver Island, travellers can visit
wine, mead, cider, and premium spirits
producers. The irst commercial vineyard
was established in the Cowichan Valley in
1970 and the Island’s irst winery opened in
1992. Today, around 80 vineyards cultivate
grapes for over 40 wineries (www.wine
islands.ca). Vancouver Island Expeditions
ofers local food and drink tours such as
A Taste of Nanaimo and the Comox Valley
Craft Brewery Tour (www.vancouverisland
expeditions.com).

The BC Distilled Festival is the largest
spirits event in Canada, exclusively for local
distilleries (www.bcdistilled.ca). For brews
there is the BC Ale Trail (www.bcaletrail.ca).
THE PRAIRIES
CRAFTY TIPPLES
While the Prairies are not known for their
wines—the climate just isn’t suitable—the
craft brewery business is booming and
spirits are on the rise.
Winnipeg Tasting Tours takes customers
to the city’s best microbreweries—including
PEG Beer Co., Little Brown Jug, Barn Hammer
Brewing and The Common at The Forks
Market (www.winnipegtastingtours.ca).
Capital K Distillery, Manitoba’s irst
craft distillery, led by master distiller Jason
Kang, makes Crystal Vodka and soon will
have small-batch rum, brandy and whisky.
Visitors are welcome for cocktails in their
tasting room and tours for up to 30 people
at a time (www.capitalkdistillery.com).
Royal Crown Northern Harvest Rye
Whisky, distilled in Gimli, Manitoba, was
named the best whisky in the world in 2016
by renowned British whisky reviewer, Jim
Murray (www.crownroyal.com).
Alberta also has a booming craft beer
scene. Calgary Brewery Tours ofers several
tours showcasing the local breweries and
distilleries. The Spirit of Alberta Tasting
Tour along the Cowboy Trail takes partici-
pants to the region’s earliest craft beer
producers, to makers of mead and to Eau
Claire Distillery, a farm-to-glass operation
in Turner Valley (www.calgarybrewerytours.
beer).
NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE • ON TOURISM/GOH IROMOTO
55
ONTARIO
A CENTRE OF WINE FESTIVALS
AND ICEWINE
The Niagara region is a major Canadian
wine district with more than 100 wineries
and 5,665 ha (14,000 acres) of grapevines.
The wine route starts less than an hour from
downtown Toronto (www.winecountry
ontario.ca). In Niagara-on-the-Lake a
Winemakers’ Selections Tasting Pass allows
purchasers to enjoy a local wine at some
two dozen wineries around town (www.
wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com).
The annual Niagara Wine Festival takes TRAVEL
place over three weekends at wineries and
other locations throughout Niagara. The fall REINVENTED
harvest celebration is packed with live
entertainment, culinary and wine seminars,
parades and, of course, Niagara wines at
7:05 am
Post-workout
favourite local restaurants. The wineries get breakfast in
the room.
into the groove by ofering wine and culinary
pairings (www.niagarawinefestival.com).
Icewine, made from frozen-on-the-vine
grapes, is an iconic Canadian wine often
touted as Canada’s greatest liquid luxury.
8:00 am
Cab it to a meeting.
Niagara’s Icewine Festival ofers wine lovers, Take a conference
call on the way.
cocktail fans and foodies fabulous winter
experiences. Held over three weekends in
January, there are gala dinners, icewine
tasting menus, ireside samplings and lots
of icewine poured at the outdoor street 7:40 pm
festivals in the towns of Niagara-on-the-Lake Kick back, relax
with beers and
and Jordan Village (www.niagarawinefestival. the game.
com/events).
Prince Edward County, Ontario’s newest
wine appellation, has been touted as one of
Canada’s top tourist destinations. The area’s
allure in the past had been its giant sand
dunes, quaint towns and nature trails. Now
it has grown into an important wine region Kick back at Four Points hotels
with close to 40 wineries; some, such as Huf across Canada. Get what you’re
Estate, with excellent accommodation and looking for with the style and
dining (www.princeedwardcountywine.ca). the service you want, all at a
A visit to Essex Pelee Island Coast (EPIC) great price. Enjoy fast & free
Wine Country could mean meandering along WiFi, great local beer with
the shoreline to sample the wares of any one Best Brews,™ and more.
of the 16 or so wineries, lunch or dinner at
a winery and an overnight stay in a unique BOOK NOW AT
B&B (www.epicwineries.com). Take an FOURPOINTS.COM
overnight Cycle and Snore Wine Trail Ride
for both exercise and relaxation (www.
windsoreats.com/packages/wine-trail-ride).
QUÉBEC
SUPER COOL WINES
AND CIDERS ©2017 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights
Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Four Points and their logos
are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide,
Inc., or its affiliates.
Visitors can plan their own tours on the
website choosing from ive distinct wine
56
OKANAGAN VINEYARD, BC • SHUTTERSTOCK/CHASE CLAUSEN
growing regions: Eastern Townships,
Montérégie, Ouest-du-Québec, Centre-du-
Québec and Est-du-Québec. Located 40
minutes east of Montréal, The Brome-
Missisquoi Wine Route links wineries along
a 140-km (87-mi.) signposted route in the
beautiful Eastern Townships (www.laroute
desvins.ca). On this route, you will ind the
province’s irst winery, Domaine des Côtes
d’Ardoise, opened in 1981 in Dunham, which
is remarkable not only for its wines but for its
exhibition of sculptures gathered from more
than 80 artists (www.cotesdardoise.com).
The Magog-Orford Wine Festival, held
annually on the irst two weekends of
September, ofers an opportunity to sample
Québec regional food and wine products in a
picturesque setting (www.fetedesvendanges.
com/en).
With an annual production of over 60
ciders, Montérégie is the pioneer of cider
production in Québec (www.maroutedes
cidres.com/en/cider-mills). Ice cider (made
from frozen-on-the-tree apples) was irst
made in the Eastern Townships by a French
winemaker, Christian Barthomeuf, at his
winery/cider house, Clos Saragnat, in
Frelighsburg (www.saragnat.com). Domaine
Pinnacle, famous for its lat, sparkling and
ice ciders, exports to more than 50 countries
(www.domainepinnacle.com/en).
Top microbreweries in Montréal include
Dieu du Ciel, Harricana, Boswell, HELM,
Benelux, Broue Pub Brouhaha, McAuslan,
Brasseur de Montréal and Bistro Soeurs
Grises, many which also serve gastro pub
food. In 2016, RateBeer named Dieu du Ciel,
in Mile End, the best microbrewery in Québec
and in the Top 100 in the world (www.
montreal.eater.com/maps/best-montreal-
brewpubs-beer-bars).
On Île d’Orléans, Cassis Monna & Filles
cultivates 16 ha (39.5 acres) of blackcurrants
to produce over 40,000 bottles per year of
cassis liqueurs (www.cassismonna.com/en).
THE MARITIMES
LOCAL FLAIR COMING
ON STREAM
Nova Scotia is Canada’s fourth largest wine
producing province. Its wine trail has about
a dozen wineries making quality wines from
100% locally grown Nova Scotia grapes and
fruit (www.winesofnovascotia.ca). Grape
Escapes ofers a number of tours, some
which include lunch or dinner at a winery
(www.novascotiawinetours.com). Domaine
de Grand Pré, the oldest farm winery in
Atlantic Canada, has an award-winning
restaurant, Le Caveau, which focuses on
regional Nova Scotia product prepared with
a global lair (www.grandprewines.ns.ca).
Benjamin Bridge makes champagne-method
sparkling wines recognized as among the
top in the world (www.benjaminbridge.com).
The Good Cheer Trail ofers an exciting mix of
tours, tastings and special events at wineries,
cideries, microbreweries and distilleries
(www.goodcheertrail.com). The Halifax Beer
Bus takes people around Halifax to taste
and learn all about Halifax’s exploding craft
beer scene (www.halifaxfoodtours.com).
The new state-of-the-art Authentic Seacoast
Distillery opened its doors as the home
to award-winning spirits and craft beer
brands, including the new GLYNNEVAN
whisky (www.authenticseacoast.com).
The Halifax Distilling Company is the irst
of its kind on the Halifax waterfront (www.
halifaxdistillingco.ca).
New Brunswick has around a dozen
wineries to visit (www.tourismnew
brunswick.ca/Products/Groups/Wineries ).
At Motts Landing Vineyard & Winery in the
beautiful St. John River Valley, wines are
made from estate grown grapes such as the
unusual Louise Swenson grape (www.motts
landingvineyard.com). At Magnetic Hill
Winery and B&B, in a restored 1867 historic
site overlooking Moncton, visitors can picnic
on the grounds while enjoying a sip of
estate-grown fruit wines such as blueberry,
cranberry and strawberry, as well as those
from local New Brunswick grapes—all vinted
on the premises (www.magnetichillwinery.
com). In 2012, Distillerie Fils du Roy opened
in Petit-Paquetville making absinthe and a
gin that uses a local tree, the Thuja occiden-
talis evergreen, in its botanical recipe (www.
distillerieilsduroy.com).
In P.E.I., the Rossignol Estate Winery ofers
a remarkable variety of table wines, fruit wines
and liqueurs. Family-owned Matos Winery &
Distillery ofers tours and tastings just minutes
from Charlottetown, and the Beamish Family
Organic Orchard has expanded to produce
craft spirits and liqueurs relecting an auth-
entic Island taste experience at Deep Roots
Distillery. Prince Edward Distillery makes PEI
Wild Blueberry Vodka, and Canada’s irst and
only vodka made from PEI potatoes (www.
tourismpei.com/wineries-distilleries).
In Newfoundland, Rodriguez Winery,
Auk Island Winery, Quidi Vidi Brewery, Port
Rexton Brewing Co., YellowBelly Brewery
and WesternNL Brewing Co. have all come
on stream.
THE NORTH
SPIRITS AND BREWS
In 2016 Yukon Brewing Company released
Two Brewers Yukon Single Malt Whisky—
one of only two single malt whiskies made
in Canada. The Company has international
award-winning craft beers and does brewery/
tasting tours on a daily basis, except Sundays
(www.yukonbeer.com). The NWT Brewing
Company opened in the fall of 2015 (www.
nwtbrewingco.com).
With all these new craft distilleries,
breweries, cideries and over 700 licenced
wineries, a good local drink is always near at
hand in Canada.
 57

VAUGHAN MILLS, ON • IVANHOÉ CAMBRIDGE

Savvy travellers should arrive in Canada with a bit

SHOPPING: of empty space in their luggage, since the country
MORE THAN is full of shopping opportunities—whether one’s
taste runs to historic farmers’ markets, deal-
SOUVENIRS BY LAURA BYRNE PAQUET
packed fashion outlets, lively neighbourhoods,
spacious malls or sleek museum shops.

As for what to buy, the choices range
from maple syrup and saskatoon berry jam
to Inuit soapstone carvings and high-end
fashion. Perhaps a second suitcase would
be wise.
HIT THE MALL
Many urban malls aim themselves squarely
at fashion-conscious shoppers. In Ottawa,
the CF Rideau Centre recently completed a
three-year, $360-million expansion and
welcomed Nordstrom and Québec fashion
retailer Simons, among others. At the
Yorkdale Shopping Centre in northwest
Toronto, a $331-million expansion in late
2016 brought the mall’s total size to 185,806
sq. m (2 million sq. ft.). Downtown, the CF
Toronto Eaton Centre ofers more than 250
stores and services in a multi-storey atrium;
the complex is so big that it stretches across
two subway stops
Even larger is the West Edmonton Mall
—with more than 800 shops and services, it
is Alberta’s top tourist attraction and Canada’s
largest shopping centre. More than a mall,
it also ofers a National Hockey League-
sized ice rink, the world’s largest indoor
amusement park and indoor wave pool,
a zip-line, and an aquarium.
One of Canada’s most unusual malls is
the Aberdeen Centre in Richmond, a
Vancouver suburb. Customers can shop for
Asian herbs and Korean cosmetics, browse
through a branch of Japan’s Daiso bargain
and novelty chain, enjoy Asian cultural
performances, and sample treats such as
congee, bubble tea and noodles in the
800-seat food court.
SEEK AN OUTLET
Outlet malls—featuring a huge range of
retailers, as well as restaurants and services
—are excellent options for visitors who
want to spend the whole day shopping.
Vaughan Mills on Toronto’s northern
outskirts—one of 28 Ivanhoé Cambridge
retail centres across the country—ofers a
complimentary shopping shuttle service
58
BANFF, AB • BANFF & LAKE LOUISE TOURISM/PAUL ZIZKA
from downtown Toronto during peak travel
seasons, as well as savings booklets, gifts
with minimum purchase, coat and parcel
checks, free WiFi and discounts at nearby
hotels. The mix of full-price and discount
retailers includes Saks Fifth Avenue OFF
5TH, Tommy Hiliger, Sephora, Vans and
many more.
The company’s newest outlet mall is
the Outlet Collection in Winnipeg, a
37,100-sq.-m (400,000-sq.-ft.) destination
with more than 100 retailers, slated to open
in late spring.
There are many other outlet malls
across the country well worth a visit.
In Richmond, British Columbia,
McArthurGlen is a ive-minute drive from
Vancouver International Airport and is
easily accessible by the SkyTrain rapid
transit system. The complex is home to
international names such as Coach, Armani
and Fossil. In Québec, the Premium Outlets
complex near Montréal attracts shoppers
with promises of discounts of 25 to 65
percent on brands such as MaxMara and
Gucci.
UNIQUE NEIGHBOURHOODS
Across the country, historic sites and
pedestrian-scaled neighbourhoods are
home to one-of-a-kind stores.
Along False Creek in Vancouver,
Granville Island is a one-time industrial
site that was reclaimed and redeveloped in
the 1970s. Today, it features a farmers’
market, bakeries, restaurants, and artisans
crafting everything from pottery to sake.
Dating back to the 1870s, Calgary’s
Inglewood has recently evolved into a hip
hub of galleries, music venues, cafés, and
boutiques specializing in everything from
bedding to spices. Its counterpart in
Saskatoon is Riversdale, once home to
carriage makers and furniture stores and
now the site of two theatre companies, the
Saskatoon Symphony Orchestra, a fashion
design school and scores of quirky shops.
For vibrant street life in retail-rich
Montréal, the Plateau Mont-Royal neigh-
bourhood is a good bet.
The Forks in Winnipeg, a former rail yard
at the junction of the Red and Assiniboine
rivers, has been reclaimed and is now a
hive of activity. One of the city’s top tourist
attractions, it is busy with restaurants,
specialty retailers, a farmers’ market, out-
door performance spaces and the landmark
Canadian Museum for Human Rights.
Speaking of farmers’ markets, several
across the country date back to the 1700s or
early 1800s, including the Saint John City
Market in New Brunswick, the ByWard
Market in Ottawa, the St. Lawrence Market
in Toronto and the Halifax Seaport Farmers’
Market.
Also in Halifax, a district of shipping
warehouses built in the early 19th century
is now a popular waterfront destination
called the Historic Properties, where
visitors can explore a range of boutiques
and enjoy premium ice cream, craft beers
and fresh seafood.
Finally, one of Canada’s most pictur-
esque shopping streets is the narrow rue du
Petit-Champlain in Québec City. In December,
when it is decorated with Christmas trees
and usually at least dusted with snow, it is
like something out of a Dickens novel—if
Dickens had been French-Canadian.
ONLY IN CANADA
For many travellers, the highlight of a trip
is inding a unique item to bring home
and proudly display or give as a gift.
Fortunately, Canada has no shortage of those.
 59

Since the country is celebrating its 150th

anniversary this year, the Royal Canadian
Mint is selling a wide variety of beautiful
commemorative coins. The 12-coin anniver-
sary collection features a painted 25-cent
piece and a glow-in-the-dark $2 coin, both
emblazoned with designs from the “My
Canada, My Inspiration” contest. They are
available on-line and through the Mint’s bou-
tiques in Ottawa, Winnipeg and Vancouver.
Museum shops are ideal spots to ind
Canadian artworks, such as Inuit prints and
soapstone carvings, and First Nations and
Métis paintings, carvings and sculptures.
Craft galleries abound across the country;
one hotbed is Fredericton, New Brunswick,
home of the New Brunswick College of Craft
and Design.
Many visitors return home with some of BYWARD MARKET, OTTAWA • ON TOURISM
Canada’s distinctive foods, such as B.C.
salmon, saskatoon berry jam from the bottle of Canada’s famous icewine. Brave From outlet centres and funky neigh-
Prairies, maple syrup from Central Canada, visitors can also pick up a bottle of bourhoods to malls and museum shops,
or bakeapple tea or pickled iddleheads Newfoundland screech, a hearty rum Canada has a wealth of choices for visitors
from the East Coast. The inal touch? A popular in the easternmost province. looking to indulge in a bit of retail therapy.

Toronto’s premier fashion

& outlet destination
our free savings booklet
Tourists can receive a Love Everything About Savings Booklet.

free shopping shuttle service

From Union Station Jun 1 - Sept 30 & Nov 24 - Dec 24.

VAUGHANMILLS.COM
60

CARNAVAL DE QUÉBEC

CELEBRATE WITH US: Canada is a country of festivals. Whatever the

season, there’s a celebratory event going on
CANADA’S VIBRANT somewhere. You’ll ind harvest festivals in the
fall, Aboriginal powwows starting in spring,
FESTIVALS BY DIANE SLAWYCH
carnival and ski and snowboard festivals in
winter, plus theatre and music events all
summer long. Here’s a sample:

IN THE LAND OF ICE
AND SNOW
“My country is not a country, it’s winter.”
You’d have to live in Québec to truly
appreciate the famous line from French
Canadian singer Gilles Vigneault’s song
“My Country” (“Mon pays”). While cold,
snowy days may seem to drag on for months,
that hasn’t stopped Québecers, known for
their joie de vivre, from turning winter into
a time for celebration. The centerpiece of
the Québec Winter Carnival, a 17-day event
in Québec City which begins in late January,
is the magniicent Ice Palace—made from
300 lb. blocks of ice—which everyone
enjoys exploring. Other must-sees include
the international snow sculpture competi-
tion and the night parades. Elsewhere,
check out the ice canoe and dogsled races,
try ice ishing and have your photo taken
with Bonhomme—the friendly snowman
mascot (www.carnaval.qc.ca).
WINNIPEG’S INDIGENOUS
EXTRAVAGANZA
Lively singing, dancing and drumming are
all part of the powwow, along with colourful
and imaginative Indigenous regalia, from
the elaborate feather headdress to beaded
moccasins, and the jingle dress. Every year
dozens of powwows take place in various
parts of the country, but the one billed as
the largest in Canada happens in Winnipeg
during May. The Manito Ahbee Festival
presents hundreds of dancers who compete
for cash prizes in numerous categories,
along with award-winning drum groups
from across the continent. The event also
recognizes the accomplishments of
Indigenous recording artists and music
industry professionals from around the
globe, and features a marketplace and trade
show. New to the powwow is the Music
and Arts Program which includes a music
conference and music showcase along with
an art expo and traditional art competition
with quillwork, beadwork, ribbon skirts and
star-blankets. There is also a square dance
and jigging competition in honour of the
Métis community (www.manitoahbee.com).
BOLDLY GOING WHERE
NO PRAIRIE TOWN HAS
GONE BEFORE
How did a quiet southern Alberta town
with a population of 1,836 people become
“the Oicial Star Trek Capital of Canada?”

It helps to have a name like Vulcan, the
home planet of Mr. Spock, one of the show’s
main characters. Played by the late Leonard
Nimoy, as it turns out, he supported the idea.
For three days in late July fans of the popular
American TV series, and the franchise it
spawned, lock here for the Vulcan Conven-
tion, known as Vul-Con. This year’s lineup
is still being inalized, but last year’s
convention included guest celebrities from
all ive Star Trek series. The weekend includes
academic presentations, costume and trivia
contests and, of course, a vendor’s room.
While there, see the U.S.S. Enterprise
replica located near Highway 23, Vulcan’s
space-themed water park and the spaceship-
shaped Vulcan Tourism & Trek Station—
a combination visitor information and
Trekkie memorabilia centre, with a
commemorative Gene Roddenberry
plaque (www.vulcanconvention.com).
“PARTY IN APRIL,
SLEEP IN MAY”
Among the many entertaining winter
sporting events in Canada, nothing quite
compares with the scale of the World Ski
and Snowboard Festival (WSSF) in British
Columbia. This 10-day marathon in April
doesn’t just celebrate sports, but music and
art are included as well, with athletes and
artists alike pushing the limits of their abili-
ties. And it all takes place in Whistler, one
of North America’s top-rated ski resorts,
which was the host mountain resort of the
2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games.
Events feature high-intensity boarderstyle
and freeski events, roller derby showdowns,
and ski and snowboard competitions on big
mountain terrain. It becomes non-stop
entertainment when combined with concerts
—from indie acts to Juno award-winners,
exciting photography events, the signature
Multiplicity event, and the Olympus 72
Hour Filmmaker Showdown contest for
pre-assigned groups to produce short ski/
snowboard ilms near Whistler, which are
screened and judged culminating in a grand
prize winner (www.wssf.com).
FALL MAGIC IN AN
HISTORIC SETTING
Enjoying the fall colours and bountiful
apple harvest is all the more enticing within
the setting of a 19th century village. Welcome
to Kings Landing in New Brunswick. The
popular Thanksgiving weekend in October is
the harvest celebration—a time to partici-
ALLISON CROWE, NEWFOUNDLAND VINYL, GROS MORNE THEATRE FESTIVAL • THEATRE NL/PB PRODUCTIONS
pate in pumpkin carving, games of skill and
chance, a turkey shoot, a Thanksgiving
English-style country dance and children’s
games. Victorian and Loyalist traditional
dinners are prepared in select homes. Reserve
in advance for a traditional Thanksgiving
dinner with all the trimmings at the King’s
Head Inn. The weekend before Thanksgiving,
during Apple Fest, you can join in the apple
dance, help the village ladies bake an apple
cake, or try your hand at Applewood carving
(www.kingslanding.nb.ca).
THE PLAY’S THE THING
Cow Head, Newfoundland might normally
be a blip on the map except for the fact that
it is located within a national park and is host
to an increasingly popular theatre festival
that highlights plays with a connection to
the province. The Gros Morne Theatre
Festival’s eclectic program is a mix of drama,
comedy, music and dinner theatre. This
year’s lineup includes “Newfoundland
Vinyl”—with hits of the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s
by Newfoundland’s biggest recording stars.
A crowd favourite is “S.S. Ethie,” a true story
about a ship that ended up on the rocks near
Sally’s Cove in 1919. The festival runs for
16 weeks from early June to late September
with 160 performances in two intimate
90-seat venues. The plays are staggered so
you can see two diferent shows in one night,
or, if you’re in town for three days, you can
see all six shows. And some visitors do
(www.theatrenewfoundland.com).
SEAFOOD CELEBRATION
IN THE MARITIMES
Where can you indulge in 35 varieties of
oysters, chow down a portion of the world’s
longest lobster roll, or sidle up to a bar for
61
an award-winning Caesar, all in one place?
Try the Prince Edward Island International
Shellish Festival—a four-day culinary
smorgasbord from September 14 - 17 in
Charlottetown. It is packed with culinary
demos, dining experiences, celebrity chefs,
and non-stop East Coast entertainment all
weekend long. Curate your own experience,
whether attending one of the culinary
competitions, watching some of the world’s
best oyster shuckers and inest chefs
competing for cash prizes, claiming bragging
rights for helping make another record-
breaking lobster roll, or sampling an array
of fresh local seafood from the Shellish
Pavilion. Oh, and new this year is PEI’s
longest oyster bar (www.peishellish.com).
ALL THAT JAZZ,
AND THEN SOME
Ten days, some 1,500 musicians and more
than 350 concerts make the TD Toronto Jazz
Festival one of the country’s most exciting
musical events. Did we mention there are
dozens of free concerts? The music on ofer
is more all-encompassing than the name
suggests, with other genres also represent-
ed, including blues, gospel, swing, rock,
R&B, soul, hip-hop, pop, calypso, funk, big
band, cabaret, and lamenco! The core of
the festival takes place at Nathan Phillips
Square in downtown Toronto, but includes
more than 30 other venues across the city.
The festival starts in late June. This year’s
complete lineup has yet to be inalized but
will include Mavis Staples, Joss Stone and
Gregory Porter (www.torontojazz.com).
For more information on festivals, see
the Special Events heading in each of the
provincial sections.
62

ALGONQUIN GOLF COURSE, ST. ANDREWS BY-THE-SEA • TOURISM NB

CALLING Having chased dimpled white Titleists over six

continents in my quest to play the world’s best
ALL SWINGERS! courses, this golf addict proudly opines that
Canada boasts no lack of stellar tracts. My
CANADA’S FINEST bucket list includes oceanside gems, mountain
marvels, prairie bargains and some surprises
FAIRWAYS BECKON BY ANITA DRAYCOTT
that have been ranked among the best on the
planet. We are spoiled by choice.

THE RISE, VERNON, BC
Aptly named, The Rise, a rollicking roller
coaster set high above Okanagan Lake, is
the design debut of PGA pro Fred Couples
in collaboration with Gene Bates. The sixth
hole, an elevated tee, par-three, is a sight
to behold. To your right, water washes
down a rock clif face. The green teases
from behind a glistening pond at the foot
of the waterfall about 30 m (98 ft.) below.
Bring you camera as this course is truly a
drama queen, and don’t be surprised if
your ears pop due to the alpine altitude
(www.therise.ca).
SAGEBRUSH, MERRITT, BC
The previously-private Sagebrush is now a
public course managed by Troon Golf. Rod
Whitman’s design tumbles and rolls with
natural rhythm. Golfers may also try their
luck at world-class ly ishing for feisty
Kamloops rainbow trout as they pause for
refreshments at the pond between the 12th
and 13th fairways. Because of Sagebrush’s
remote location—about three hours from
Vancouver—there are no set tee times. Play
when you arrive and are ready to go (www.
sagebrushlife.com).
STEWART CREEK GOLF &
COUNTRY CLUB, CANMORE, AB
Formerly a coal mining area, Stewart Creek
ofers sensational views of the Three Sisters
peaks. Despite its formidable setting,
Canadian architect Gary Browning
accomplished his goal to create a course
that is playable and challenging from all
ive sets of tees. “Too often the forward tees
miss the great pleasures of a championship
course,” remarked Browning who has
succeeded in his intent to “take players’
breath away” (www.stewartcreekgolf.com).
EVERGREEN GOLF COURSE,
NIPAWIN, SK
Canadian architect Les Furber’s redesign of
Evergreen Golf Course, set in the middle of
a mature forest of Jack pines, spruce and
poplar trees, will challenge golfers of all
levels. The forest is in play throughout the
championship tract, especially on the 15th
and 16th holes that are like islands in a sea
of trees. Nearby, Tobin Lake attracts avid
anglers hoping to break walleye and
northern pike records (www.evergreen
golfcourse.ca).
GRANITE HILLS GOLF CLUB,
LAC DU BONNET, MB
Carved out of the rugged Canadian Shield
and spectacular woodlands, Granite Hills,
winding its way along the shores of scenic
Lac du Bonnet, is Manitoba’s newest golf
course—opened in 2007. Lots of elevated
 63

tees provide sweeping vistas of ive
lakeside fairways. For those arriving by
boat, Granite Hills has a public dock. The
golf scene in Manitoba is surprisingly
good and afordable (www.granitehills.ca).
THE BRIARS GOLF CLUB,
JACKSON'S POINT, ON
The Briars is a private golf club, but
guests of The Briars resort have playing
privileges. The irst nine holes, designed
by Stanley Thompson, opened in 1922. In
1971, Stanley Thompson’s able apprentice,
Robbie Robinson, created the back nine.
In the years following, architect Doug
Carrick, who apprenticed for Robinson
and his team, made some alterations.
Perhaps it’s because of this seemingly
seamless series of designers that The
Briars has retained the traditional style
of a Scottish woodlands course. You can
take a cart but it’s really a joy to walk the
meticulously manicured fairways and
greens shaded by mature trees (www.
briarsgolf.com).
FAIRMONT
LE CHÂTEAU MONTEBELLO
GOLF CLUB, QC
Designed in 1929 by Canada’s legendary
Stanley Thompson, the Montebello golf
course meanders over hilly forested
terrain with plenty of rocky outcroppings
and wondrous views of the surrounding
Laurentian Mountains. Keep an eye out
for wildlife as the course is designated as a
Certiied Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary.
After your round, check into the Fairmont
Château Montebello—possibly the cosiest,
yet largest, log cabin in the world (www.
fairmont.com/montebello/golf).
CABOT CLIFFS, INVERNESS,
CAPE BRETON, NS
When Cabot Links opened in 2012 it caused
a sensation in the golf world as Canada’s
irst and only true links course. In 2016, the
folks who own Cabot Links opened Cabot
Clifs, created by the renowned design team
of Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw. Fairways
tumble and twist down from a forested
glade high above the sea. They meander up
and over dunes, cross meadows and
ravines, and skirt ragged clifs. Golf Digest
has described Cabot Clifs as, “the second
coming of Cypress Point,” and has ranked it
19th on its list of 100 Greatest Golf Courses
in the World (www.cabotlinks.com).
THE LINKS AT CROWBUSH
COVE, MORELL, PEI
Thomas McBroom routed his Maritime
masterpiece through 1000-year-old sand
dunes on the Island’s north shore. Each
fairway presents its own unique series of
challenges. There are nine water holes, plenty
of pot bunkers and sudden gusts from Crow-
bush Cove to keep you on your toes. You’ll get
great bang for your buck here and on other
PEI courses (www.roddvacations.com/golf).
Nova Scotia’s Premiere
Oceanfront Resort
TERRA NOVA RESORT &
GOLF COMMUNITY, PORT
BLANDFORD, NL
Terra Nova, dubbed the Pebble Beach of
Newfoundland, is located in the National
Park of the same name. The irst hole is a
knockout—from elevated tees it doglegs
right to a raised green with sparkling
Bonavista Bay ahead of you. Most of the
fairways are wide enough to accommodate
the Titanic, tempting you to let it rip.
Perhaps what makes Terra Nova’s lagship
Twin Rivers course so special is the
outstanding par threes. Number eight, for
example, requires crossing a raging river of
whitewater to an elevated green protected
by bunkers. Thanks to the second
nine-hole Eagle Creek course, and very
attractive “stay and play” packages, you
can swing to your heart’s content (www.
terranovagolf.com).
For golf course listings across Canada:
www.golfcanada.com/golf-courses
Provincial golf associations are listed
at the bottom of Golf Canada’s home page:
www.golfcanada.ca

THE ALGONQUIN GOLF

COURSE, ST. ANDREWS, NB
The Algonquin Golf Course boasts a
distinguished history. First opened in
1894 with design input by the acclaimed
Donald Ross (of Pinehurst No. 2 fame), Championship Golf • Luxury Spa
The Algonquin was recently redesigned
• Fine Dining • Private Vineyard
by Canadian golf course architect, Rod
Whitman. The maritime tract overlooking • Deluxe Accommodation
St. Andrews-by-the Sea and the Bay of
Fundy is slated to reopen in August with FoxHarbr.com • 1-866-257-1801
eight new holes and ten new greens. On
the 12th par-three, new tees built on the
sides of the clifs drop down to the world’s
highest tides in the Bay of Fundy (www.
algonquinresort.com/golf).
BC
64

BRITISH
COLUMBIA

VANCOUVER, BC • SHUTTERSTOCK/MARIO DUARTE

FROM CITY In British Columbia, the wilderness is never

far away, not even when you’re in the middle

LIGHTS TO of a busy urban centre. This is a place of

great natural beauty, of magniicent
MOUNTAIN mountain ranges to climb, lush forests to
explore and endless beaches to surf.
HEIGHTS BY JOANNE SASVARI
But it is also much more than just a pretty
playground.

Canada’s westernmost province is a
gateway between Asia to the west and the
rest of the country to the east. It is an
important centre for trade and commerce.
It has cosmopolitan cities and lourishing
creative industries. And it is, above all,
a place where work and play coexist
beautifully.
GETTING VANGROOVY
Vancouver is the province’s biggest city, a
modern, multicultural metropolis that is
regularly rated one of the world’s most
ROUNDHOUSE LODGE, WHISTLER • TOURISM VANCOUVER/TOURISM WHISTLER
livable cities. Bordered by mountains and
ocean, it has an easygoing lifestyle that
combines outdoor adventure with urban
sophistication. It is home to Canada’s largest
and busiest port, as well as thriving ilm,
tech, tourism and green businesses. It is also
a centre for culinary excellence, celebrated
for its obsession with fresh, seasonal
farm-to-table ingredients. From Vancouver,
it’s just a short drive to the farming commu-
nities of Fraser Valley, the exceptional Asian
cuisine of Richmond and the seaside
communities of the Sunshine Coast.
BC
65
4,751,600
Victoria
www.hellobc.com
Victoria International Airport,
25 km (16 mi.) from downtown
Vancouver International Airport,
15 km (9 mi.) from downtown
Abbotsford International Airport,
5 km (3 mi.) from downtown and
64 km (40 mi.) from Vancouver
Kelowna International Airport,
12 km (7 mi.) from downtown
ISLAND HOPPING
Escape to the idyllic isles along the Paciic
coast. The largest is Vancouver Island, a
ninety-minute ferry ride from the main-
land; it is home to B.C.’s historic capital city,
Victoria, as well as vineyards, mountain
parks and the suring mecca of Toino.
Between Vancouver Island and the
mainland are the Gulf Islands, populated
by a quirky mix of artisans and isherfolk.
Further north is Haida Gwaii, a remote
archipelago of unspoiled natural beauty
and traditional Aboriginal culture.
BC
66

PEAKS OF PERFECTION on. Today, people are more likely to visit

SPECIAL EVENTS Think of B.C. as wave upon wave of
towering mountain ranges: the Coastal
the wide open spaces of B.C.’s north for
unparalleled wilderness experiences.
JANUARY Mountains, Cascades, Selkirks, Kootenays That could mean bear watching along the
• Winter Eagle Festival & Count,
Brackendale and Rockies, just to name a few. Those northern coast, ly ishing in a rushing
mountains are not only scenic, they are river, paddling through the still waters of
JANUARY – FEBRUARY
• Dine Out Vancouver also popular destinations for outdoor the Bowron Lakes, camping out under the
enthusiasts of all sorts. Many are located northern lights, or panning for gold in
FEBRUARY
• Vancouver International Wine in the province’s more than 1,000 parks historic Barkerville.
Festival and protected areas. Others, like Whistler
MARCH Blackcomb, Sun Peaks and Big White, are WHAT’S NEW?
• Pacific Rim Whale Festival, Tofino/ world-class ski resorts with full-service Hang with the grizzlies at the loating
Ucluelet villages and year-round activities, Khutzeymateen Wilderness Lodge, the only
APRIL including dozens of top-notch golf place to stay in this wild bear sanctuary
• World Ski & Snowboard Festival, courses. along B.C.’s wild North Coast (www.
Whistler khutzlodge.com).
MAY COWBOYS AND
• Cloverdale Rodeo & Country Fair CHARDONNAY Follow the BC Ale Trail to the best craft
• Feast Tofino The sunny Thompson and Okanagan brews and nearby attractions from
MAY – JUNE valleys stretch through the middle of the Vancouver Island to the Kootenay Rockies
• Vancouver International
province. To the west is the cowboy (www.bcaletrail.ca).
Children’s Festival
country of the Thompson region, with its
MAY – OCTOBER
dude ranches and vast grasslands. To the Hike across the Cascade Mountains along
• Richmond Night Market and
Summer Night Market east, the Okanagan is B.C.’s wine country, an old fur-trading trail that’s been trans-
with its vineyards, orchards and sophisti- formed into the 74 km (46 mi.) HBC
JUNE
• Aboriginal Cultural Festival, cated culinary culture. Both ofer plenty for Heritage Trail (www.hopemountain.org/
Victoria outdoor enthusiasts to do, whether it’s trails/hbc-heritage-trail).
JUNE - JULY houseboating on Shuswap Lake, scaling the
• TD Vancouver International Jazz Skaha Blufs or cycling along the trestles of Set up home base at the Savoy Hotel,
Festival the abandoned railway line that hurtles Nelson’s chicly fun new boutique hotel
• Williams Lake Stampede across Myra Canyon. housed in an historic building (www.
JUNE – SEPTEMBER savoyhotel.ca ).
• Bard on the Beach Shakespeare INTO THE WILDERNESS
Festival, Vancouver Back in the 1860s, gold was discovered up Meander along Whistler’s Cultural
JULY in the Cariboo region, and the Rush was Connector, a scenic pathway and bikeway
• Kamloopa Powwow, Kamloops
• Nanaimo Marine Festival & World
Championship Bathtub Race
JULY – AUGUST
• Honda Celebration of Light
Fireworks Competition,
Vancouver
AUGUST
• Filberg Arts Festival, Comox
• Pride Week, Vancouver
SEPTEMBER
• Vancouver Fringe Theatre Festival
• Victoria International Chalk Art
Festival
OCTOBER
• Okanagan Fall Wine Festival
• Vancouver Writers Fest
NOVEMBER
• Cornucopia, Whistler
NOVEMBER – DECEMBER
• Canada’s National Gingerbread
Showcase, Victoria

www.HelloBC.com/Events
HAIDA GWAII • CTC

linking everything from the Squamish
Lil’wat Cultural Centre to the Audain Art
Museum (www.whistler.ca).
Chewy or crispy, steamed or fried, illed
with soup or stufed with meat—who
doesn’t love Asian dumplings? Get your
ill along the Dumpling Trail in Richmond
(www.dumplingtrail.com).
CITY LIGHTS
Beauty and personality—Vancouver has it
all. Think craft beer and food truck festivals,
yoga on the beach and glitzy shopping
destinations such as North America’s only
McArthurGlen Designer Outlet (www.
mcarthurglen.com). Embraced by the ocean
and mountains, the city features a livable
mix of high-rises and heritage homes,
graceful gardens and funky neighbour-
hoods. At its heart is the lushly forested
400-ha (1,000-acre) Stanley Park, one of the
world’s great urban parks. But Vancouver is
also the glittering glass towers of down-
town; the multicultural neighbourhoods of
Chinatown, Little Italy and Little India; the
hipster cool of Gastown and the trendy
restaurants of Kitsilano; as well as attrac-
tions including Science World, the North
Downtown Vancouver, Canada - Luxury Boutique Hotel
reservations@wedgewoodhotel.com t
1.800.663.0666 t wedgewoodhotel.com
Shore ski hills and Capilano Suspension
Bridge Park (www.tourismvancouver.com).
Across the Strait of Georgia, at the
southern tip of Vancouver Island, Victoria is
a city of historic charm, passionate foodies
and endless outdoor activities. It is
considered by many to be Canada’s most
cycling-friendly city, and is home to several
spectacular gardens, including the world-
renowned Butchart Gardens. Many of the
city’s attractions cluster around the bustling
Inner Harbour, including the loating homes
of Fisherman’s Wharf, the Royal BC Museum
and the neo-baroque BC Parliament Buildings
(www.tourismvictoria.com).
Head inland to the Okanagan Valley
and you’ll come to Kelowna, a bustling
centre of commerce, technological
innovation and wine culture (www.
tourismkelowna.com ).
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
In British Columbia, the great outdoors
truly is just that—great: from ocean
playground to mountain peaks, windswept
plains and fertile farmland.
Head for the hills—there are plenty of
them. This mountainous province boasts 13
major ski resorts (and many smaller ones)
BC
67
with epic powder, heart-stopping descents
and pristine backcountry bowls, as well as
miles of trails for those who prefer skinny
skis and snowshoes. In summer, the resorts
turn their lifts and trails over to daredevil
mountain bikers and hikers eager to explore
the alpine meadows.
QUICK FACT
THE ALASKA HIGHWAY TURNS 75 THIS
YEAR AND, IN CELEBRATION, HAS BEEN
NOMINATED AS A NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE.
But you don’t have to climb a mountain
to ind adventure here. Awash as it is with
rivers, lakes and the Paciic Ocean, B.C.
is popular for water sport enthusiasts.
You can sail alongside orcas in Desolation
Sound, paddle the Bowron Lakes, raft down
the Fraser Canyon, surf the waves near
Toino or cast for trout in Lake Country.
Those who prefer to stay on dry land can
also hike through dozens of national and
provincial parks or ride a horse under the
endless skies in the grasslands. Even city
slickers can ind mountains to climb and
waters to sail right in their own backyard.
BC
68
YOHO DOCK • KRISTINA CAJIPE
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
First there were the Aboriginal Peoples who
ished, hunted and traded for some 10,000
years in what is now British Columbia. Then
the Europeans arrived, followed by new-
comers from Asia. Today, the three cultural
strands are woven together here, vibrantly
and indelibly.
KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK • PARKS CANADA/OLIVIA ROBINSON
First Nations culture is preserved in
many galleries and museums, including the
renowned UBC Museum of Anthropology
(www.moa.ubc.ca ), and thrives in authentic
experiences such as the Kamloopa Powwow
(www.aboriginalbc.com ). The stories of the
Europeans who arrived to extract B.C.’s vast
natural resources in the 18th and 19th
centuries come to life in Barkerville, a
former Gold Rush town turned living
museum (www.barkerville.ca ), or the Fort
Langley National Historic Site (www.
parkscanada.gc.ca/langley ). The Asian
experience is captured in the historic
Chinatowns of Victoria and Vancouver, as
well as in the City of Richmond, with its
modern Asian shopping malls (www.
tourismrichmond.com ). And all three
traditions come together at the Gulf of
Georgia Cannery National Historic Site
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/georgiacannery ).
MUST SEE, MUST DO
Climb the Via Ferrata—an “iron road”—of
cables, ladders and handholds up Whistler
Mountain (www.whistler.com). Then swing
over to Whistler’s new Audain Art Museum
to take in a remarkable collection of works
by B.C. artists (www.audainartmuseum.com).
In Vancouver, take the foot passenger
ferry across False Creek to Granville Island
and its galleries, shops, restaurants,
theatres and popular Public Market
(www.granvilleisland.com).
Go faster, higher, stronger at the Richmond
Olympic Experience, North America’s irst

and only oicial member of the Olympic
Museums Network (www.therox.ca).
Join a whale-watching tour from Toino.
You’ll spot dolphins, orcas, sea lions and, if
you’re lucky, majestic humpbacks frolicking
in the waters of Vancouver Island (www.
tourismtoino.com).
At the Great Bear Rainforest on B.C.’s
northern coast, First Nations guides will
take you on a search for the elusive white
kermode spirit bear (www.spiritbear.com).
Taking tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel
is a longstanding Victoria tradition. Even
better? Cocktails. Stop by for an Empress
Sour at the hotel’s chic new Q Bar (www.
fairmont.com/empress).
SCENIC DRIVES
From the rushing waters of Hell’s Gate to the
First Nations heritage village of Tuckkwiowhum,
the winding Fraser Canyon scenic drive
along Hwy 1 ofers a thrill a minute, with
delicious stops en route.
The open road of Route 97 takes you from
the windswept grasslands of the Thompson
River Valley cowboy country through the
bountiful Okanagan Valley vineyards (www.
route97.net).
VICTORIA INNER HARBOUR • SHUTTERSTOCK/CHASE CLAUSEN
BC
69
The Paciic Marine Circle Route meanders
from Cowichan Valley’s wineries to the
towering rainforests of remote southwest
PARK PICK
Vancouver Island, with panoramic ocean
KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK
Icy waterfalls and steamy hot springs.
views along the way.
Deep canyons and towering moun-
tain peaks. Remote wilderness,
Take the week-long Hot Springs Circle
within easy reach. Kootenay National
Route through the Kootenay Rockies
Park, part of a UNESCO World
and soak in the region’s spectacular
Heritage Site, is a place of beautiful
mountain views as well as its mineral-
contrasts. It is long and narrow,
rich hot springs.
running eight km (ive mi.) on either
side of Hwy 93 in southeastern B.C.
For info on these and other driving trips
Its quirky shape is the result of a 1920
visit: www.HelloBC.com/driving-routes
agreement between the provincial
and federal governments that created
FAMILY FUN
the park in exchange for a highway
Little ones (and big ones, too!) will love
through the Rocky Mountains. As a
meeting British Columba’s wilder
result, rugged though it is, many of
residents. Whale watching of Vancouver
the park’s greatest attractions are
Island is an epic adrenaline rush, but you
easily accessible, even by wheelchair,
can also hang with dolphins and belugas
including the popular healing
at the Vancouver Aquarium (www.van
Radium Hot Springs (www.parks
aqua.org). Prefer to stay on dry land?
canada.gc.ca/kootenay).
Learn about cougars and coyotes at the
BC Wildlife Park in Kamloops (www. Forget the map, use the app: To
bcwildlife.org), go bug-eyed at the Victoria explore Kootenay National Park,
Bug Zoo (www.victoriabugzoo.ca) and download Parks Canada’s irst guided
The Exploration Place Museum and driving tour app, Explora Kootenay.
Science Centre in Prince George (www.
theexplorationplace.com), or visit the National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
resident grizzlies at Grouse Mountain 1-888-773-8888
(www.grousemountain.com).
AB
70

4,252,900
Edmonton
www.travelalberta.com
Calgary International Airport,
23 km (14 mi.) from downtown
Edmonton International Airport,
26 km (16 mi.) from downtown

ALBERTA
BOW RIVER, CALGARY • TRAVEL AB/GEORGE SIMHONI

Aside from the allure of the Rocky Mountains and

ALPINE VISTAS, the prehistoric badlands, Canada’s fourth largest

CITY SOJOURNS province counts resilience as one of its many

attributes. Bred from its Wild West heritage
AND RURAL mixed with the boom-and-bust drama of its
oil-driven economy, Alberta has overcome its
RETREATS BY SUSAN MATE
share of adversity with a characteristic “Let’s get
’er done” attitude that ensures the welcome mat
is always unfurled.

Alberta’s diverse heritage is a varied
ofering of First Nations history, pioneer
spirit and rich immigrant culture that
draws New Canadians from all parts of the
globe. The annual 10-day whoop-up called
the Calgary Stampede celebrates all things
cowboy and rodeo early each July.
Edmonton’s K-Days follows up with a
tribute to northern Alberta’s Klondike
heritage, while dozens of other festivals
across the province celebrate its unique
pockets of regional pride—think perogies
in Vegreville, or beef jerky in Longview.
From the granite spires of Waterton
Lakes in Alberta’s south to Wood Bufalo
National Park in the rugged north, the
Wild Rose province delivers hall-of-fame
experiences including ive sprawling
national parks and 300 provincial recre-
ational areas such as Kananaskis Country,
Cypress Hills, Writing-On-Stone and
Dinosaur Provincial Park.
The two biggest urban centres, Edmonton
and Calgary, are cosmopolitan cities, while
smaller cities including Red Deer, Grande
Prairie, Fort McMurray, Medicine Hat,
Lethbridge and Airdrie serve as important
regional hubs for shopping, government,
tourism and agriculture/industry.
Alberta’s dining scene is innovative and
local, emphasizing Rocky Mountain cuisine
such as game, ish and world-famous
grain-fed beef. From upscale hotel dining
rooms in the big city to eclectic alpine
bistros in Banf, Jasper and Lake Louise, the
restaurants consistently win international
awards. So, too, do Alberta’s major attrac-
tions—like the retail city/theme park of
West Edmonton Mall, or the Alberta Sports
Hall of Fame in Red Deer.
NATURE’S WONDERLAND
Provincial recreational areas help keep
Albertans and their visitors outdoors.
Spread across 661,848 sq. km (255,541 sq.
mi.) of pristine terrain, the ive major snow
resorts and sprawling backcountry lure
powder-hounds from November to May.
Try dogsledding through the untouched
Spray Lakes valley, or take a guided ice walk
in frozen Maligne Canyon near Jasper. The
lakes of Kananaskis Country, west of
Calgary, are a paradise for ice ishing in
winter, and boating, hiking and cycling in
the summer. Elk Island National Park east
of Edmonton ofers a great opportunity to
photograph wildlife, including its resident
bufalo and, of course, elk.
Rent a mountain bike in West Bragg
Creek, or enjoy a more sedate bike ride on
the paved path between the towns of
Canmore and Lake Louise. Alberta’s glacier-
fed waterways—particularly the Bow and
Red Deer rivers—lure anglers with the
promise of top-notch trout ishing. In the
same day, visitors can play the back nine of
a world-class golf course, hopscotch past
cactus patches in search of ancient rock
carvings in the desert, and then retire to the
hotel hot tub to watch the sunset.
VENTURING OUT
Float your boat down a river or head for
calmer waters along Lake Minnewanka or
Moraine Lake in picturesque Banf National
Park. Bonus: hear the crack of avalanches
overhead, well out of your path but still
powerful. Chase champagne powder from
the top of irst-rate resorts such as Sunshine
Village, Lake Louise or Marmot Basin, or
explore them in summer to unveil a hiker’s
paradise of abundant wildlife and colourful
carpets of wildlowers. Canada Olympic
Park in northwest Calgary has a national
athlete training centre, a snow park and
Olympic museum, while Peter Lougheed
Provincial Park boasts unparalleled
opportunities for adventure all year round.
Bar U Ranch National Historic Site,
south of Calgary, chronicles pioneer life
from 1882-1950; this pristine setting in the
shadow of the southern Rockies is featured
on many postcards. Travellers with time on
their hands head north to Wood Bufalo
National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site with 44,807 sq. km (17,300 sq. mi.) of
protected wilderness where the endangered
whooping crane and the world’s largest herd
of free-roaming wood bison can be found.
AB
71
ICEFIELDS PARKWAY • KRISTINA CAJIPE
WHAT’S NEW?
The highly touted National Music Centre
depicts Canada’s musical heritage. Built to
sprawl overtop of a street running through
Calgary’s East Village, the ive-storey
building, which opened last summer,
features high-tech music studio space, live
programs, numerous stages and theatres,
and more than 2,000 instruments and
artefacts spanning several centuries
(www.nmc.ca).
The relocated Royal Alberta Museum is
scheduled to reopen later this year. The new
facility, including exhibit space devoted to
human history, a children’s gallery, bug
room and Manitou Stone Gallery, will be
the largest museum in western Canada
(www.royalalbertamuseum.ca).
Renovations have made the popular Banf
Gondola terminal more accessible and also
more informative. It now features a sparkling
new mountaintop indoor interpretive
centre to accompany the existing exterior
boardwalk and hiking trails. Open year-
round, it afords spectacular views of
nearby peaks as well as the town of Banf
(www.brewster.ca/attractions-sightseeing).
CITY LIGHTS
Alberta’s two major cities ofer quite
diferent insights into the province, though
they share a love of green space, sprawling
river pathways and tidy, bustling downtowns.
The provincial capital of Edmonton is a
government city with a grand legislature
building, a thriving arts community and
numerous galleries, craft stores and art
shops. Most can be found along trendy
Whyte Avenue or in the downtown arts
AB
72
SPECIAL EVENTS
JANUARY
• Ice Magic Festival, Lake Louise
JANUARY – FEBRUARY
• Ice on Whyte Ice Carving Festival,
Edmonton
JUNE
• Sled Island Music and Arts Festival,
Calgary
• Waterton Wildflower Festival
JULY
• Calgary Stampede
• Canadian Badlands Passion Play,
Drumheller
• Edmonton International Street
Performers Festival
• K-Days, Edmonton
• Vul-Con, Vulcan
AUGUST
• Big Valley Jamboree, Camrose
• Canmore Folk Music Festival
• Edmonton International Fringe
Theatre Festival
NOVEMBER
• Agri-Trade Exposition, Red Deer
• Canadian Finals Rodeo, Edmonton
www.travelalberta.com/ca/
things-to-do/events-festivals
district, the location of the modern Art
Gallery of Alberta, the Winspear Centre and
the Citadel Theatre. The meandering North
Saskatchewan River cuts a steep swath through
the city north of downtown, and can be
explored by canoe, raft or the Edmonton
Queen Riverboat (www.edmonton.ca ).
The “Festival City” boasts more than 60
events a year. Its long winters are cause for
several events including the Ice on Whyte
winter festival in January/February. Summer
oferings include the Fringe Theatre
Festival, the Folk Music Festival, K-Days and
Heritage Festival. North America’s largest
indoor shopping complex is like a self-
contained mini-city. West Edmonton Mall
spans the equivalent of 48 city blocks, has
800+ retail/food outlets and the year-round
World Waterpark. Fort Edmonton Park along
the North Saskatchewan River showcases
the fur trade and Gold Rush eras.
Calgary’s oice towers, which contain
the majority of Canada’s oil and gas
company headquarters, were built to
capture the Rockies on the western
horizon. An inner-city energy hub called
the Bow Tower is a modern architectural
skyscraper that spans two city blocks.
MT. NORQUAY, BANFF NATIONAL PARK • BANFF & LAKE LOUISE TOURISM/PAUL ZIZKA
Nearby Chinatown segues to the Bow River
pathway and the ongoing redevelopment of
the East Village has revitalized this historic
section of downtown.
The city has preserved much of the
sandstone buildings along Stephen Avenue
Walk, where many great restaurants and
shops are found, along with the Glenbow
Museum, Olympic Plaza and the Calgary
Tower. Numerous retail stores and eateries
are also part of The CORE complex (www.
visitcalgary.com ).
Residents are devout nature lovers,
locking to the city’s network of river
pathways as well as the inner city Prince’s
Island Park, Inglewood Bird Sanctuary and
Bowness Park lagoon, where families can
skate in winter and canoe and paddleboat
in summer. Just west of City Hall, Olympic
Plaza is a busy festival and performance
venue that hosted the 1988 Winter Olympic
ceremonies. The Calgary Zoo is renowned
for its conservation initiatives, while south
of the city, Spruce Meadows attracts
equestrians to several international
show-jumping competitions each summer.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Head for the hills from summer to fall for a
guided multi-day backcountry pack trip on
horseback. Sleep under the stars and listen
to coyotes howl in a riverside tent camp in
Dinosaur Provincial Park, home to some of
the planet’s largest fossil beds and fantastic
interpretive programs. Or scramble up the
Via Ferrata (Italian for iron path), a rope
and cable-assisted mountain journey at Mt.
Norquay near Banf. Should winter be your
season, abundant ice-climbing, skiing,
ishing, snowshoeing and ATV journeys can
be found across the province.
Explore the snow-caked Spray Lakes
valley on dogsled. Drive the winter ice road
to Fort Chipewyan, Alberta’s oldest First
Nations community north of Fort
McMurray, or photograph wildlowers
among the alpine lakes at Sunshine Village
resort west of Banf or the Plain of Six
Glaciers trail near Lake Louise.
QUICK FACT
THE WILD ROSE BLOOMS ABUNDANTLY
ACROSS ALBERTA; IT BECAME
THE OFFICIAL FLOWER IN 1930.
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
The province’s history is just over a century
old, but the First Nations heritage dates to
prehistoric times. Métis Crossing, north-
east of Edmonton, ofers a taste of the
musical culture created by the melding of
First Nations Peoples with European settlers
in the 19th century. Fort Edmonton tells of
the city’s Gold Rush era, when these same
voyageurs paved the way for the fur trade.
Calgary’s Heritage Park Historical Village
overlooks the calm waters of the Glenmore
Reservoir—which has dragon boat racing
and other water sports. History is also
chronicled at Head-Smashed-In Bufalo
Jump, one of ive UNESCO sites in Alberta,
or Blackfoot Crossing—a modern interpre-
tive centre built into the Bow River blufs
east of Calgary.
Explore transportation history at the
Remington Carriage Museum at Cardston,
or hop aboard an open air Tiger Moth at
Reynolds-Alberta Museum for a bird’s-eye
view of the prairies around Camrose and
Wetaskiwin. Palaeontology enthusiasts will
want to head north to the city of Grande

Prairie to tour the newly-minted Philip J.
Currie Dinosaur Museum, which chroni-
cles the work done to preserve the world’s
largest hornbill dinosaur bonebed.
MUST SEE, MUST DO
The resource town of Grande Cache,
northwest of Edmonton, is a rugged former
forestry and coal-mining community
ringed by a dozen massive peaks. Largely
undeveloped, the town is a fantastic
jumping-of spot to explore nearby
Willmore Wilderness Park. This 4,600 sq.
km. (1,840 sq. mi.) park afords a rugged
backcountry experience that is popular
with ATV enthusiasts, travellers on
horseback and extreme athletes.
Nestled into the lush coulees of the
Rosebud River Valley, the abandoned
railway town of Rosebud was overtaken by a
group of faith-based artists three decades
ago. They created a thriving professional
theatre school and arts centre that ofers
high-calibre, family-friendly theatre and
music to more than 35,000 visitors a year.
Many visitors stroll the hamlet’s two streets,
which are spattered with funky art shops
and galleries (www.rosebudtheatre.com).
Historic Fort Macleod in southern Alberta
is the birthplace of the North-West Mounted
Police—now the RCMP. The irst musical
ride in Canada was held in the town in 1876.
Modelled after British Army cavalry drills,
the musical ride features 36 riders perform-
ing intricate moves. The 30-minute shows
are held four times daily from July to
September (www.nwmpmuseum.com).
SCENIC DRIVES
Iceields Parkway: Ranked one of the most
scenic drives in Canada, Hwy 93 from
Jasper to Lake Louise, is a 237-km (147-mi.)
stretch that zips past dozens of waterfalls,
glaciers, emerald lakes and rocky gorges.
A gateway to the Alaska Highway, the town
of Jasper is a portal to nearby destinations
such as Athabasca and Sunwapta falls,
Miette Hot Springs and Maligne Lake (www.
iceieldsparkway.com).
UNESCO Trail: It’s no day trip, but this
classic trek is worth the several weeks it
takes to properly travel the 1,900-km
(1,181-mi.) north-south corridor. From the
southern tip of Alberta at stunning
Waterton Lakes to Wood Bufalo National
Park in the remote north, road trippers pass
through a diverse range of terrain including
alpine, parkland, boreal forests and
sections of the badlands.
Cowboy Trail: Western Heritage takes the
spotlight along this scenic Hwy 22 drive
through the foothills of the Rockies
between Pincher Creek and Mayerthorpe.
Highlights of the 700-km (435-mi.) route
include Bar U Ranch National Historic Site
and historic Cochrane Ranch (www.
thecowboytrail.com).
FAMILY FUN
Families shouldn’t miss the World
Waterpark at West Edmonton Mall, the
Calgary Zoo’s Penguin Plunge or The
Brainasium outdoor centre/slide at the
TELUS Spark Centre. Kids lock to the
Tropical Pyramid at the Muttart
STEPHEN AVENUE, CALGARY • TRAVEL AB/GERARD YUNKER
AB
73
Conservatory. The Great Canadian Barn
Dance at Hillspring features campires,
music and food (www.gcbd.ca), while the
Innisfail Discovery Wildlife Park is a
90-acre zoo housing more than 40 species
of orphaned animals including bears,
wolves and lions (www.discoverywild
lifepark.com). The Royal Tyrrell Museum
ofers a Jurassic joyride; also the chance to
climb into the belly of the World’s Largest
Dinosaur in Drumheller in the Canadian
Badlands. Star Trek bufs should stop at the
town of Vulcan for its otherworldly visitor
centre and annual Vul-Con festival, a living
tribute to the popular Star Trek TV series.
PARK PICK
ROCKY MOUNTAIN HOUSE
NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE
Immerse yourself in nine authentic
Aboriginal cultures at this former
fur-trading post along the conluence
of the mighty North Saskatchewan
and Clearwater rivers, where 200
years of fur trade heritage have been
brought to life. Play traditional
Blackfoot games or cook bannock
(unleavened bread) using just a stick
and an open campire. Tap your toes
in harmony with a local drummer or
dancer, or learn to make an authentic
Native dream catcher. Bed down for
the night in a teepee or Métis
trapper’s tent under a canopy of stars.
Step into the wide-bottomed York
boats built to navigate the northern
trading routes, or check out the
authentic Red River carts that
brought Métis settlers West across
Saskatchewan and Manitoba. Two
interpretive trails wind past remains
of the Hudson’s Bay Company and
North West Company, rival fur-
trading forts established in 1799.
Relive the adventures of British-
Canadian explorer David Thompson,
who helped chart a huge portion of
northwestern North America on a
quest to ind a passage to the Paciic
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/rocky
mountainhouse).
National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
1-888-773-8888
AB
74
ROYAL TYRRELL MUSEUM OF PALAEONTOLOGY
VISIT THE LOST WORLD
OF DINOSAURS
BY DEB CUMMINGS
The best way to experience the Canadian
Badlands is by looking up at the earth, not
down, on a hike through the very lands
where dinosaurs once roamed.
In a landscape that could have been
pinched together by the hands of fairies lies
a place so fantastical that it is easy to imagine
that the colossal likes of Tyrannosaurus rex
and Albertosaurus once thundered through
this land.
Located some 135 km (84 mi.) east of
Calgary or 280 km (174 mi.) southeast of
Edmonton, the scenery of rippling grasslands
dramatically cracks open in what is known
as the Canadian Badlands. Here you’ll ind
wind-scraped hoodoos, spires and coulees
that tumble through canyons, leading you to
the town of Drumheller. Most visitors make
a beeline for the world-famous Royal Tyrrell
Museum of Palaeontology, six km northwest
of town, but don’t—the surrounding area is
also worth exploring. Take a tour of the Atlas
Coal Mine, count the number of wacky
dinosaur statues that spackle the townsite,
climb the world’s largest dinosaur to stick
your head out its mouth for a jaw-dropping
selie and then have lunch in the Last
Chance Saloon on the skirts of “Drum”
(www.canadianbadlands.com).
After you’ve enjoyed those sites, spend
an afternoon touring some of the Tyrrell
Museum’s 13 galleries, and if that doesn’t
slake your wanderlust for all things ancient,
do what 20 percent of the museum’s visitors
do and join a program (www.tyrrellmuseum.
com/programs). From fossil casting and
geological hikes to storytime for wee ones
and science breaks—all programs are
family-friendly. Even some of the ive-day
summer camps keep kinfolk front and
centre, where parents and children
participate together on guided digs, and
sleep in teepees under the stars.
Considered one of the top dinosaur
museums in the world, what makes the
Royal Tyrrell Museum so spectacular is its
unique setting. It was right here, in these
parched canyons and coulees where
scientiic research continues today, that
geologist Joseph Tyrrell discovered what
turned out to be Canada’s irst carnivorous
dinosaur skull in 1884. Later dubbed
Albertosaurus, it was this 72-million-year-
old ind that sparked the Great Canadian
Dinosaur Rush where scientists, researchers
and opportunists from around the planet
plundered the land.
However, the embarrassment of riches
seemingly knows no end. Fast forward 133
years later and you’ll discover that only
three percent of the Royal Tyrrell Museum's
vast collection of 160,000 specimens ever
gets exhibited—precisely why several of the
museum’s newest expansions include
galleries that now rotate their oferings
more than before. Opening in May is
Grounds for Discovery, the last exhibit of a
three-year renovation project. This new
exhibit will tell the untold stories of
remarkable discoveries made by industries
such as mining, highway construction, as
well as oil and gas. Here is where you’ll ind
their oldest dinosaur—a 112 to 110-million-
year-old nodosaur, unearthed in 2011 at a
Suncor mine in Fort McMurray.
The leading crowd-pleaser, however, is
likely to remain Dinosaur Hall where 40
articulated skeletons are imaginatively
presented, the centrepiece of the story of
the evolutionary rise and fall of the dinosaur.
The second most popular stop is the on-site
preparation lab window where visitors can
watch scientists and technicians toil over
fossils.
But don’t assume that the Royal Tyrrell
Museum is only focused on old bones. This
spectacular museum plots a chronological
course through evolutionary history, making
its points with the help of computer stations,
hands-on displays and immersive galleries.
Place an extraordinary museum like this in
a setting that swirls in weird and wonderful
ways, and the names of its former inhabitants
such as Triceratops and Xiphactinus seem
itting—in a lost-world sort of way.
Museum Hours
May 15-Aug. 31 (daily, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.)
Sept. 1-30 (daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.)
Oct. 1-May 14 (10 a.m. to 5 p.m., closed Mondays)
Contact:
In Alberta, toll-free: 310-0000
then dial 1-403-823-7707
In North America, toll-free: 1-888-440-4240
Outside North America: +1 403-823-7707
Email: tyrrell.info@gov.ab.ca
Website: www.tyrrellmuseum.com
SK
76

1,150,600
Regina
www.tourismsaskatchewan.com
Regina International Airport,
8 km (5 mi.) from downtown
Skyxe, Saskatoon Airport,
6 km (4 mi.) from downtown

SASKATCHEWAN
MEEWASIN VALLEY • SHUTTERSTOCK/RICHARD ESPENANT

LAND OF Saskatchewan licence plates proudly proclaim the

“Land of Living Skies,” a poetic salute to the

LIVING SKIES BY ROBIN AND ARLENE KARPAN

province’s big open skies, clear air, dancing northern
lights and breathtaking spectacles during bird
migrations. Sunrises and sunsets have a well-deserved
reputation as the most dazzling on the planet.

NATURE AT ITS FINEST highlands, grasslands and forest (www. pristine northern setting, these dunes
Beneath those skies lies a tremendously saskparks.net/cypresshills), or the spire-like support some 50 rare plants and ofer the

SASKATCHEWAN
diverse landscape. Head south to ride the
open range in some of the largest expanses
of rare native grasslands left in North
America; explore rugged badlands or
experience rural life in Canada’s agricultural
heartland. Venture north to choose among
Sandcastles formation of Lake Diefenbaker
(www.beechysask.ca).
Saskatchewan is the sand dune capital
of Canada, boasting both the largest and
second largest dunes in the country, plus a
few others thrown in for variety. The vast,
ultimate wilderness adventure.

100,000 lakes famous for ishing, and a
boundless network of unspoiled wild rivers.
Then there are unique landscapes such as
the Cypress Hills with its enchanting mix of
other-worldly Athabasca Sand Dunes are
some of the largest active dunes this far
north anywhere in the world. Situated along
the south shore of Lake Athabasca in a
A RICH LEGACY
With locations in Saskatoon, Moose Jaw,
North Battleford and Yorkton, the Western
Development Museum is the most promi-
nent chronicler of Saskatchewan’s early
years (www.wdm.ca). The Hepburn Museum
of Wheat, a half-hour north of Saskatoon,
makes it easy to experience that most iconic

prairie symbol—the traditional wooden
grain elevator. Two national historic sites,
Fort Walsh and Fort Battleford, bring to life
the early days of the North-West Mounted
Police, and their role in establishing law
and order in the West (www.parkscanada.
gc.ca/fortwalsh; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
battleford). Visitors are always awe-struck
by the remarkable rare book collection at
the Athol Murray College of Notre Dame in
Wilcox, just south of Regina. It houses the
largest collection of 13th to 17th century
books and manuscripts in Canada—every-
thing from original treatises of philoso-
phers and saints to handwritten decrees by
popes and kings. To really go back in time,
as much as 6,000 years, head to
Wanuskewin Heritage Park in a scenic
valley on Saskatoon’s northern outskirts
(www.wanuskewin.com). It is considered
among the best examples of pre-contact
occupation sites on the North American
FORT WALSH NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE • TOURISM SK/GREG HUSZAR PHOTOGRAPHY
Great Plains. Ancient archaeological inds
including a bison kill site and medicine
wheel meld with a vibrant present-day
Aboriginal culture.
ENJOYING THE BEST
Given that Saskatchewan is a major food
producer, it is not surprising that folks here
like to eat well. With a cuisine relecting
local products and the province’s diverse
ethnic makeup, there are more food-
centred events than you can shake a
skewer stick at. Try Mortlach’s Saskatoon
Berry Festival (www.mortlach.ca) or
Saskatoon’s Taste of Saskatchewan
(www.tasteofsaskatchewan.ca). Foodies
can also take Taste-It Food Tours in Moose
Jaw, Regina, Saskatoon and the Cypress
Hills (www.tasteitfoodtours.ca).
Calling Saskatchewan golf-crazy is an
understatement; there are more courses
per capita than anywhere in the country.
Choose from hidden gems in small
communities to famous award-winners
such as Dakota Dunes Golf Links (www.
dakotadunes.ca ), named among the top
public courses in Canada by SCOREGolf. For
an extensive listing, see www.saskgolfer.com.
WHAT’S NEW
Grotto Gardens Country Market, just south
of Maple Creek, is a new destination for
farm food in a family-fun setting. The
combination fruit orchard, bakery and
eatery specializes in local and seasonal
fare, plus Saskatchewan’s irst “Goat Walk”
(www.grottogardens.ca).
SK
77
Regina’s spanking new Mosaic Stadium,
home of the beloved Saskatchewan
Roughriders football team, is now open
(www.newmosaicstadium.com).
Fishing is wildly popular in Saskatchewan.
If you are new to the sport, the “Learn
to Fish Program” operated by Waskesiu
Marina in Prince Albert National Park
shows you how to get in on the action
and land that big one (www.waskesiu
marina.com).
CITY LIGHTS
Regina’s heart is Wascana Centre, one of the
largest urban parks in North America and
home to several key attractions including
the Saskatchewan Legislative Building,
lined by an impressive summer lower
garden; the Saskatchewan Science Centre
and Kramer IMAX Theatre; and the Royal
Saskatchewan Museum, interpreting
everything from the Age of Dinosaurs to
Saskatchewan’s diverse landscapes and
wildlife, and Aboriginal Peoples link to the
land (www.wascana.sk.ca). The 125-year-old
Government House, with its impressive
Edwardian Garden, captures a bygone era
when this was the residence of the
Lieutenant Governor (www.government
house.gov.sk.ca). Regina is famous as home
of the RCMP, where Mounties have trained
since 1885. The RCMP Heritage Centre show-
cases the history of this world-renowned
police force (www.rcmphc.com).
Saskatoon’s most deining feature
is its beautiful riverbank along the South
SK
78

SPECIAL EVENTS
FEBRUARY
• Canadian Challenge Dog Sled
Race, La Ronge
APRIL
• Spring Celebration Powwow, First
Nations University, Regina
MAY
• Yorkton Film Festival—Golden
Sheaf Awards
JUNE
• PotashCorp Children’s Festival of
Saskatchewan, Saskatoon
• SaskPower Windscape Kite Festival,
Swift Current
• SaskTel Saskatchewan Jazz
Festival, Saskatoon
JULY
• Back to Batoche Festival, Batoche
• Country Thunder Saskatchewan,
Craven SASKATOON • SHUTTERSTOCK/JEFF WHYTE
• Ness Creek Music Festival
near Big River
• Saskatchewan Festival of Words,
Saskatchewan River—home to parks, THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Moose Jaw walking trails, numerous festivals and the Saskatchewan is known as a stellar canoeing
• Wood Mountain Sports & Stampede popular River Landing development in the destination with everything from adrenaline-
south downtown (www.tourismsaskatoon. pumping whitewater to tranquility in
JULY – AUGUST
• RCMP Sunset Retreat Ceremonies, com ). For a diferent perspective of the stunning wilderness. Churchill River Canoe
Regina heart of Saskatoon, climb aboard the Prairie Outitters is the go-to source for guided
Lily riverboat for a one-hour river cruise, or trips, equipment rentals and advice
AUGUST
• Regina Folk Festival opt for a Sunday brunch or dinner cruise (www.churchillrivercanoe.com). They are
• Saskatchewan Premier’s Walleye (www.theprairielily.com ). members of the Canada Nature Escapes
Cup Fishing Tournament, Nipawin Moose Jaw has capitalized on its Co-operative, ofering an array of nature-
SEPTEMBER Roaring Twenties’ past when it was a based trips and experiences such as
• PotashCorp Fireworks Festival, hotbed for Prohibition-era bootlegging horseback excursions and dogsledding
Saskatoon and gangster activity. The Tunnels of (www.canadanatureescapes.ca).
NOVEMBER Moose Jaw runs tours recreating this The ishing in Saskatchewan is
• Canadian Western Agribition, colourful time when Al Capone was legendary, where trophy-sized catches are
Regina rumoured to have been a regular visitor practically taken for granted. For the
(www.tunnelsofmoosejaw.com). ultimate experience, head to a remote ly-in
www.saskatchewan-events.com lodge for a combination of exceptional
ishing and resort-style pampering in
pristine forested lakelands. The
Saskatchewan Outitters Association lists
sport ishing operators that meet high
standards (www.soa.ca ).
Situated on the Central North American
Migratory Flyway, Saskatchewan is a
birdwatcher’s dream. Among the easiest
hotspots to visit is Chaplin Lake, right
beside the Trans-Canada Highway. The lake
is so signiicant that the Western
Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network
named it a Site of Hemispheric Importance.
Each spring, a hundred thousand migrating
shorebirds of some 30 species stop here to
feed on their northward migration,
including half the world’s sanderlings.
RCMP SUNSET RETREAT CEREMONY, REGINA • CTC/ASYMETRIC/FINN O’HARA

Learn more from the exhibits at the Chaplin
Nature Centre or take in a tour (www.
chaplintourism.com ).
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
Follow driving tours through the Trails of
1885 to relive a challenging era in the
development of the West, when disappear-
ance of the bufalo and the increasing pace
of settlement led to unrest by some
Aboriginal bands and the Métis under Louis
Riel (www.trailsof1885.com).
A great way to get in touch with
Saskatchewan’s contemporary Aboriginal
culture is to attend a powwow. Powerful
drumming, chanting singers and swirling
dancers in brilliant outits make for an
unforgettable experience. Powwows carry
on traditions, but also serve as social
gatherings and dance competitions. Above
all, they are a lot of fun. One of the biggest
is the annual Spring Powwow at Regina’s
First Nations University (www.fnuniv.ca/
powwow ).
Saskatchewan culture is deined by its
rich diversity of ethnic backgrounds.
Saskatoon’s Ukrainian Museum of Canada,
for example, chronicles the contributions
of this prominent segment of Saskatchewan’s
makeup (www.umc.sk.ca ). In northeast
Saskatchewan, ind out more about the
Doukhobors at the National Doukhobor
Heritage Village at Veregin.
QUICK FACT
LAST MOUNTAIN LAKE NATIONAL WILDLIFE
AREA IS THE OLDEST BIRD SANCTUARY IN
NORTH AMERICA.
MUST SEE, MUST DO
Camp or rent a teepee in Grasslands National
Park to experience the wild prairie at its
inest (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/grasslands).
Witness one of Nature’s most awesome
spectacles as hundreds of thousands of
migrating geese, cranes and other water-
fowl stage in late September and October.
Hotspots include Last Mountain Lake
National Wildlife Area and the Quill Lakes
International Bird Area (www.quill-lakes-
bird-area.com).
Challenge yourself on Saskatchewan’s
longest documented hike, the 120-km
(75-mi.) Boreal Trail across Meadow Lake
Provincial Park’s picture-perfect forested
lakelands. Dedicated backcountry camp-
sites make for a true wilderness experience
(www.saskparks.net/borealtrail).
The Great Sand Hills are Canada’s second
largest sand dunes, eclipsed only by
Saskatchewan’s remote Athabasca Sand
Dunes. These, however, are easily accessi-
ble; simply drive right up to massive walls
of sand beside the road, then go for a hike.
Set the stage with a stop at the Great
Sandhills Museum & Interpretive Centre in
Sceptre, then follow the signs south to the
magical landscape (www.greatsandhills
museum.com).
SCENIC DRIVES
Tourism Saskatchewan’s suggested driving
routes include everything from spectacular
scenery to history, the arts and the best in
local food (www.tourismsaskatchewan.
com/experience-saskatchewan).
A Drive Through the North West Frontier
takes you back to the turbulent days of 1885
when Chief Big Bear’s Cree clashed with the
Canadian militia. The inal skirmish at
Steele Narrows is considered the last
military engagement to take place on
Canadian soil.
A Journey Through Cowboy Country hits
the best of the southwest, rich in ranching
culture, steeped in the history of early
mounted police posts and cattle-rustling
outlaws, and home to outstanding natural
wonders such as badlands and the Cypress
Hills.
SK
79
HISTORIC REESOR RANCH, CYPRESS HILLS • CTC
FAMILY FUN
While youngsters may be impressed by
dinosaur replicas, nothing compares to
seeing the “real” thing moving and roaring.
Named Megamunch by local school
children, the half-size robotic Tyrannosaurus
rex is the most kid-friendly highlight of
Regina’s Royal Saskatchewan Museum.
Kids are even invited to friend Megamunch
on Facebook—if they dare (www.royalsask
museum.ca).
PARK PICK
PRINCE ALBERT NATONAL PARK
Grey Owl called it one of Canada’s
greatest wilderness playgrounds.
Saskatchewan’s largest protected area
is almost smack in the centre of the
province, preserving a transition zone
from southern aspen parkland and
fescue grasslands to northern boreal
forest. Almost a third of the park is
water, with huge lakes, small ponds,
rivers and streams and wildlife-rich
wetlands galore. Canoeing and other
watersports are especially popular.
Tiny Ajawaan Lake is where Canada’s
famous conservationist, Grey Owl,
lived, worked, wrote his bestselling
books and was inally buried. The hike
or canoe trip to his cabin is a pilgrim-
age to the home of a Canadian icon
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/princealbert).
National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
1-888-773-8888
MB
80

1,318,100
Winnipeg
www.travelmanitoba.com
Winnipeg Richardson
International Airport,
10 km (6 mi.) from downtown

MANITOBA
ESPLANADE RIEL AND THE MUSEUM FOR HUMAN RIGHTS • TOURISM WINNIPEG/ZYRON PAUL FELIX

Manitoba’s unique mix of founding peoples—

FOR FOODIES, the indigenous First Nations, and then the

FAMILIES AND descendants of early French, British, and

Scottish explorers—has been spiced up over
FRESH AIR the centuries with waves of newer immigrants,
eager both to embrace their new culture and
FANATICS BY JUDY WAYTIUK
to celebrate their roots. The result is a province
that is a kaleidoscope of culture: Vietnamese,
Japanese, Ethiopian, Filipino and dozens more.

There is no better showcase to sample
them all than through Folklorama, the early
August celebration of Manitoba’s people,
where immigrants and their children create
pavilions that showcase their food, history,
and culture. Visit some four dozen coun-
tries all in the span of two solid weeks
(www.folklorama.ca ). But visitors who don’t
make it to Folklorama can drop into city
neighbourhoods and traditional ethnic
communities anytime; they all ofer their
own mini-cultural immersions: Corydon
Avenue’s Little Italy; the city centre’s tiny,
vibrant Chinatown; the Filipino stretch
along Ellice Avenue; and a sprinkling of
tiny, family-run southeast Asian eateries,
from Japanese to Vietnamese.
Winnipeg is the province’s dominant
city, sitting just west of the precise
longitudinal centre of Canada—30 km
(19 mi.) east of the city, on the Trans-Canada
Highway at 96 degrees, 38 minutes and
45 seconds west. But the entire province,
smack in the middle of Canada, is a
playground for more adventurous souls
seeking the beauty and solitude of
unspoiled nature. Rugged Precambrian
Shield granite, lush with forests and
thousands of lakes to the northeast,
gives way to rolling hills and vast, rich,

agricultural prairie to the southwest. Dead
centre are three massive lakes: Manitoba,
Winnipegosis and Winnipeg (Canada’s
13th, 11th and 6th largest, respectively).
GOING, GOING, GONE WILD
With all that wilderness, it’s no wonder
many of the province’s more than ten
million annual visitors are recreational
hunters and ishermen headed for remote
lodges and small towns tucked away in
thick lake or riverside forests. As well,
paddlers, hikers, photographers and
wildlife viewers love these natural areas,
and families can pitch tents or park campers
in one of dozens of provincial parks, or
settle into hotel rooms from two to ive-star
rated. In Riding Mountain National Park,
campsites and hotels abound around
crystal clear, icy cold Clear Lake and
the historic townsite of Wasagaming
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/riding ).
The three big lakes are fringed by
summer-oriented towns and villages,
and an October or November visit to far
northern Churchill virtually guarantees
sightings of increasingly-endangered
polar bears in their natural setting (www.
churchillwild.com; www.lazybearlodge.
com; www.frontiersnorth.com ), and
probable displays of aurora borealis. In
summer, hardy adventurers can go
snorkelling with more than 57,000 white
beluga whales that calve and raise their
babies near the mouth of the Churchill
River (www.everythingchurchill.com).
But while nature’s the big draw for much
of Manitoba, there’s a whole lot more to
be discovered in this varied province.
WHAT’S NEW?
Celebrated chef Scott Bagshaw has closed
Deseo on Osborne Street in favour of the
new small-plates Máquè on Staford Street.
His Enoteca, on Corydon Avenue, is still
going strong.
RAW:almond, a pop-up ine-dining
restaurant at the conluence of the frozen
Assiniboine and Red rivers, returns
annually to the Forks area of the city on
weekends in January and February. A
satellite version launched in 2016,
RAW:churchill, is expected to be reprised
near Churchill. Enjoy an extraordinary
experience travelling across the Churchill
River in a Tundra Buggy to dine in a heated
pop-up restaurant with a transparent roof,
under the northern lights within the
historic Hudson's Bay Company’s Prince
of Wales Fort.
Neechi Foods, the province’s irst Native
co-operative, stocks Aboriginal foods like
fresh bannock, wild game meats and wild
rice. It boasts a crafts shop on the second
level.
CITY LIGHTS
Foodies alert: Manitoba’s culinary scene
is a rising gem, from haute to heavy-duty
chowing down. Outside the city, Jennifer’s
Picnic, a long-loved local spot on Highway
307 near Seven Sisters Falls, has become a
food truck favoured by gourmet palates—
kangaroo soup, anyone? The local
epicurean website (www.pegcitygrub.com)
keeps track of new hotspots and old
favourites like the Salisbury House with its
Mr. Big Nip burger, the Goog ice cream
sundae at the Bridge Drive-In, and the
latest Broadway Avenue noon-hour food
trucks. Manitoba’s famous fall supper
circuit ofers home-cooked hearty,
community hall family-style fare all
autumn long, with listings at Travel
Manitoba (www.travelmanitoba.com).
Summer brings the Goldeyes AAA
baseball to Shaw Park (www.goldeyes.com).
The MTS Centre, the winter home of NHL
hockey’s Winnipeg Jets, mounts concerts
and special events year-round (www.
mtscentre.ca), while the city’s south end
CFL Blue Bombers’ Investors Group Field
tackles big blockbuster concerts (www.
bluebombers.com/stadium). In July, the
INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL • TOURISM WINNIPEG/LEIF NORMAN
MB
81
four-day Winnipeg Folk Festival at Birds Hill
Provincial Park, north of the city, is family-
friendly (www.winnipegfolkfestival.ca), as
is the Royal Winnipeg Ballet’s “Ballet in the
Park” at Assiniboine Park’s outdoor Lyric
Theatre (www.rwb.org).
Winnipeg warms up winter with the
Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra (www.wso.
ca), Manitoba Opera (www.manitobaopera.
mb.ca), the Royal Manitoba Theatre Centre,
Tom Hendry Warehouse Theatre (www.
mtc.mb.ca ) and Prairie Theatre Exchange
(www.pte.mb.ca). Year-round, Thermëa by
Nordik Spa in the city’s south end (www.
thermea.ca), and Ten Spa at the Hotel Fort
Garry (www.tenspa.ca) provide sybaritic
pleasures.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Provincial parks provide groomed hiking
trails and ofer summer campsite bookings
by computer, and most are near small
towns where local motels appeal to
family-oriented explorers (www.gov.
mb.ca/conservation/parks/popular_parks/
map.html). Whiteshell Provincial Park
(www.whiteshell.mb.ca) is a handy hour’s
drive east of Winnipeg, and further aield,
wilderness wanderers can take to lakes
and rivers in canoes, kayaks, or ishing
boats. Cosy resort communities like Grand
Beach, Gimli, Winnipeg Beach, Victoria
Beach, Sandy Hook, Matlock, and many
more lay claim to wide, sandy beaches.
Gimli is a favourite weekend hangout with
its charming marina and beach-town
atmosphere (www.gimli.ca). In Spruce
Woods Provincial Park, a day tripper’s
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SPECIAL EVENTS
JANUARY
• Big Fun Festival, Winnipeg
• Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra
New Music Festival
FEBRUARY
• Festival du Voyageur, Winnipeg
• Northern Manitoba Trappers’
Festival, The Pas
MARCH
• Festival of Fools, Winnipeg
• Hudson Bay Quest, Churchill
APRIL
• Winnipeg Comedy Festival
MAY
• Manito Ahbee Festival, Winnipeg
• True North: The Canadian Songbook,
the WSO and Eleanor McCain for
Canada’s 150th birthday, Winnipeg
MAY – JUNE
• Pride Winnipeg Festival
JUNE
• Manitoba Summer Fair, Brandon
• TD Winnipeg International Jazz
Festival
JULY
• Dauphin’s CountryFest
• Manitoba Stampede & Exhibition,
Morris
• Winnipeg Folk Festival,
Birds Hill Provincial Park
• Winnipeg Fringe Theatre Festival
JULY – AUGUST
• Canada Summer Games, Winnipeg
AUGUST
• Canada's National Ukrainian
Festival, Dauphin
• Icelandic Festival, Gimli
SEPTEMBER
• ManyFest, Winnipeg
www.travelmanitoba.com/
festivalsevents
hiking trail covers forests, hills, a genuine
desert, and the eerie, deep-water blue
Devil’s Punch Bowl (www.gov.mb.ca/
conservation/parks/popular_parks/western/
spruce_spirit.html).
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
Winnipeg’s historic Exchange District
ofers tours of the largest collection of terra
cotta and cut stone architecture in North
America, and Hollywood ilmmakers
frequently ilm here. Outside the city,
historic gems include Brandon’s
Commonwealth Air Training Plan Museum
and its stories of World War II air ighter
training (www.airmuseum.ca); Thompson’s
Heritage North Museum’s tales of the area’s
Aboriginal Peoples (www.heritagenorth
museum.ca); and, in far western Manitoba,
the Inglis Grain Elevators National Historic
Site (www.ingliselevators.com) is the best
remaining example of an “elevator row” in
Canada. Winnipeg’s Manitoba Legislative
Building, the Tyndall limestone-clad Beaux
Arts Classical seat of government, opened
on July 15, 1920, on the 50th anniversary of
Manitoba’s entry into Confederation (www.
gov.mb.ca/chc/hrb/prov/p040.html).
Architectural historian, Dr. Frank Albo,
leads small groups on “Hermetic Code”
tours of the building (www.frankalbo.com/
the_hermetic_code/tour/). In May, the
Manito Ahbee Festival in Winnipeg
showcases Aboriginal culture and spectac-
ular powwow performances (www.
manitoahbee.com). February’s French
Festival du Voyageur, centred in St.
Boniface, focuses on Franco-Manitoban
history and culture (www.festivalvoyageur.
mb.ca).
MUST SEE, MUST DO
Lower Fort Garry, the national historic site
just south of the city of Selkirk, shelters an
historic fur-trading fort. It is also the site
where Treaty 1, the irst treaty between
colonial explorers and Aboriginal tribes,
was signed, and where the North-West
Mounted Police—the precursor to Canada’s
Mounties—were irst trained (www.
parkscanada.gc.ca/fortgarry).
The Royal Aviation Museum of Western
Canada, near Winnipeg’s international
FOLKLORAMA • TOURISM WINNIPEG/DR. TSE LI LUK
airport, houses Canada’s second-largest
collection of vintage planes, including bush
planes and a real lying saucer—the Avro
Avrocar (www.royalaviationmuseum.com).
The Canadian Museum for Human Rights,
adjacent to The Forks National Historic
Site, is the only national museum located
outside of Ottawa, and honours human
rights around the world with technically-
innovative and highly interactive exhibits
(www.humanrights.ca).
The 2017 Canada Summer Games are
coming to Winnipeg, just in time for
Canada’s 150th birthday. The games run
from July 28 to August 13 (www.2017canada
games.ca/en/content/winnipeg-2017).
QUICK FACT
THE ST. BONIFACE MUSEUM, ORIGINALLY
BUILT AS A GREY NUNS CONVENT, IS
WINNIPEG’S OLDEST BUILDING AND NORTH
AMERICA’S LARGEST OAK LOG STRUCTURE.
SCENIC DRIVES
Bunk in at Riding Mountain National Park’s
Wasagaming townsite, and take the next
day to drive to the park for early morning
wildlife-spotting, a visit to the resident
bison herd, selie stops all around beautiful
Clear Lake and ups and downs in the park’s
unique topography. Return to Winnipeg via
Highway 5 and McCreary and the self-
proclaimed world lily capital of Neepawa,
then the scenic Highway 16 Yellowhead
route through vast farmland (www.discover
clearlake.com).
 MB
83

From north Winnipeg, take River Road

along the Red River to Selkirk and the
Marine Museum of Manitoba (www.
marinemuseum.ca), with Lower Fort Garry
National Historic Site about two-thirds
along the 60-km (37-mi.) route. Tiny
Lockport, an historic catishing spot (rent
a boat and gear) and hot dog stand heaven,
lies between the two. From Selkirk, return
to Winnipeg via pretty Henderson Highway.

For a longer day trip, take Highway 44 east

from Lockport, through the Agassiz
Provincial Forest and all the way to Seven
Sisters Falls and the classic hydro station
there, then onto Pinawa for a visit to Pinawa
Dam Provincial Park and the picturesque
town and lake. Stop to walk the suspension
bridge and hiking trails (www.gov.mb.ca/
conservation/parks/popular_parks/eastern/
pinawa.html).
FAMILY FUN
Kids go wild at FortWhyte Alive, where
bison roam on prairie grasses near a
pioneer sod house, teepee encampment
and prairie dog town (www.fortwhyte.org),
and at Assiniboine Park’s Nature
Playground and Polar Playground (www.
assiniboinepark.ca). Journey to Churchill is
home to eleven polar bears, including
Nanuk and Siku, two cubs rescued this past
winter from the Churchill area.
For history and fun, families can ride
the vintage steam train Prairie Dog Central
Railway from north Winnipeg to the
villages of Grosse Isle and Warren and back
(www.pdcrailway.com).
THE FORKS MARKET • TOURISM WINNIPEG/BRENT BELLAMY
En route to Gimli, Oak Hammock Marsh
Interpretive Centre welcomes thousands
of migrating geese in the fall (www.oak
hammockmarsh.ca); and, at the Canadian
Fossil Discovery Centre in Morden, see
monster fossils from prehistoric Lake
Agassiz and the new 15-m-long (50-ft.)
life-sized replica of Bruce, the world’s
biggest publicly displayed mosasaur
(www.discoverfossils.com ).

PARK PICK
THE FORKS NATIONAL
HISTORIC SITE SET SAIL ON
The Forks National Historic Site ranks
at the top of visitor to-do lists, thanks
A WORLD-CLASS
to its marketplaces, Sunday summer
farmers’ market, Children’s Museum, ADVENTURE
Manitoba Theatre for Young People,
traditional Aboriginal Oodena Celebra-
tion Circle, Festival Park and Stage with
free concerts, Riverwalk and summer
boat rides along the Assiniboine. In
winter, the river becomes a skating,
skiing and snowball-throwing play-
ground, with warming huts designed
by an assortment of international
IMMERSE YOURSELF
architects. Around the borders of The
IN MANITOBA’S HISTORY…
Forks is the Beaux Arts 1911-vintage
climb aboard the Nonsuch, a replica 17th-century
Union Station rail terminal, the post-
ship ...watch a polar bear under the northern lights
contemporary Canadian Museum for
...smell the Boreal forest as you pass a Cree settlement
Human Rights, and the elegant cable-
...and, step into the past as you stroll the boardwalks
stayed Provencher Bridge with little
of 1920s Winnipeg!
restaurant Mon Ami Louis halfway
across it (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/forks). ALWAYS MORE TO DISCOVER

National Parks and Historic Sites:

www.parkscanada.gc.ca ManitobaMuseum.ca @ManitobaMuseum
1-888-773-8888
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ONTARIO
TORONTO SKYLINE • SHUTTERSTOCK/JAVEN

If you just can’t decide what sort of

SO NATURAL, SO vacation destination appeals to you

SOPHISTICATED BY LAURA BYRNE PAQUET

most—wild or urban, cultural or
culinary, active or relaxed—Ontario
may be the place for you.

Canada’s second-largest province ofers
visitors a vast range of things to see and do.
Train your zoom lens on polar bears, walrus
and beluga whales on the shore of Hudson
Bay . . . or sway to a concert under the stars
at a huge music festival. Mingle with
crowds or meditate beside a silent lake. Ski,
sail, cycle or shop. Or do it all!
Ontario is home to Canada’s capital,
Ottawa. Always a high point on visitors’
lists, the city will be even more of a must-see
in 2017 due to the many events it will host
to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Canadian
Confederation—everything from huge
“machines” stalking the streets above
ground to a multimedia experience in a new
underground train station (www.ottawa2017.
ca ). You can also thrill to the Changing of
the Guard ceremony on Parliament Hill
(www.parl.gc.ca ), see dinosaur skeletons at
the Canadian Museum of Nature (www.
nature.ca ) and learn about Canada’s military
history at the Canadian War Museum (www.
warmuseum.ca).
ONTARIO PARKS
ON
85
13,983,000
Toronto; National Capital: Ottawa
www.ontariotravel.net
Toronto Pearson International Airport,
27 km (16 mi.) from downtown
Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport,
3 km (2 mi.) from downtown
Ottawa MacDonald-Cartier
International Airport, 10 km
(6 mi.) from downtown
Leave lots of time to explore Toronto, the
country’s largest metropolis (www.seetoronto
now.com). Book early to see world premieres
—and, perhaps, a few Hollywood stars—at the
Toronto International Film Festival (www.
tif.net). And don’t miss the Aga Khan Museum
of Muslim culture (www.agakhanmuseum.
org), the Ontario Science Centre (www.
ontariosciencecentre.ca), the landmark CN
Tower (www.cntower.ca) and Canada’s irst
panda cubs—born in October 2015—at the
Toronto Zoo (www.torontozoo.com).
Ottawa and Toronto are just the
beginning of what Ontario has to ofer. You
can also tour wineries along Lake Erie, in
Prince Edward County or on the Niagara
Peninsula (www.winecountryontario.ca). If
outdoor adventure is more your style, camp
in breathtaking Killarney (www.ontario
parks.com/park/killarney), Sleeping Giant
(www.ontarioparks.com/park/sleepinggiant )
or Algonquin (www.algonquinpark.on.ca )
provincial parks, or canoe along the Grand
River (www.theheartofontario.com ).
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SPECIAL EVENTS
JANUARY
• Winter Sleddog World
Championship, Haliburton
FEBRUARY
• Voyageur Winter Carnival,
Thunder Bay
• Winterlude, Ottawa
MAY
• Canadian Tulip Festival, Ottawa
JUNE
• Luminato, Toronto
JUNE – JULY
• TD Ottawa Jazz Festival
JULY
• Honda Indy, Toronto PRIME MINISTER TRUDEAU, GAY PRIDE PARADE, TORONTO • SHUTTERSTOCK/STUDIOLASKA
• RBC Royal Bank Bluesfest, Ottawa
JULY – AUGUST Take in a play or build a sandcastle on One of Canada’s largest aerial adventure
• Toronto Caribbean Carnival
the beach in Grand Bend (www.grandbend. and zip-line parks, Skywood Eco Adventure,
AUGUST com ). Explore charming shops and an opened near Brockville in 2016 (www.
• Fergus Scottish Festival and
Highland Games historic mill in Elora (www.grandand skywoodzip.com). And the new WildPlay
gorgeous.com), enjoy a spa day in Cobourg MistRider Zipline lets you “ly” 67 m (220
• Siege at Fort Erie
(www.cobourgtourism.ca ) or unwind at ft.) above the Niagara Gorge for thrilling
SEPTEMBER
one of Almonte’s many festivals (www. views of Niagara Falls (www.wildplay.com/
• Festival of Small Halls, Eastern ON
lanarkcountytourism.com ). And delve into niagarafalls).
• Nuit Blanche, Toronto
Ontario’s intriguing history at sites like The
• Toronto International Film Festival
• Western Fair, London Diefenbunker: Canada’s Cold War Museum in Saks Fifth Avenue opened its irst two
Carp (www.diefenbunker.ca ), the Canadian Canadian stores in Toronto last year,
OCTOBER
Warplane Heritage Museum in Mount Hope including a store at Sherway Gardens with
• Algoma Fall Festival, Sault Ste. Marie
(www.warplane.com ) and the Canadian a Saks Food Hall by Pusateri’s (www.
• International Festival of Authors,
Toronto Transportation Museum and Heritage saksifthavenue.com).
• Kitchener-Waterloo Oktoberfest Village in Kingsville (www.ctmhv.com ).
• Pumpkinferno, Morrisburg and Cineplex is scheduled to open The Rec
Sudbury ENJOY WATERFRONT VIEWS Room, a 3,716-sq.-m (40,000-sq.-ft.) arcade
NOVEMBER When Ontarians say “cottage country,” they game and live entertainment complex, near
• Grey Cup, Ottawa generally mean any of a number of rural Toronto’s Rogers Centre and Ripley’s
• Royal Agricultural Winter Fair, regions dotted with clear lakes perfect for Aquarium (www.cineplex.com).
Toronto canoeing, kayaking, swimming, waterski-
NOVEMBER – DECEMBER ing . . . or just admiring from the shore Here’s something you can only do in
• First Light at Sainte-Marie Among while ensconced in a comfortable ham- Ontario: have dinner below a raised 20-m
the Hurons, Midland mock. Bring your camera and binoculars, as (65-ft.) hydraulic lift lock on the Trent-
• River Lights Winter Festival, you may well spot deer, loons or coyotes. Severn Waterway. The Under Water Dining
Amherstburg
Popular cottage areas include Muskoka at Lock 21 experience will be available
NOVEMBER – JANUARY (www.discovermuskoka.ca ), the Kawarthas in Peterborough this year (www.the
• Winter Festival of Lights, (www.thekawarthas.ca), Ontario’s kawarthas.ca/uwd).
Niagara Falls
Highlands (www.ontarioshighlands.ca) and
the Rideau Valley (www.rideauheritage Ottawa’s National Arts Centre is scheduled
www.festivalsandeventsontario.ca
route.ca). Pamper yourself with a restful to have a glittering new entrance and
weekend at one of Ontario’s summer an upgraded main theatre by Canada
resorts (www.resortsofontario.com). Day, as part of a $225-million renovation
TAKE A SMALL-TOWN BREAK (www.nac-cna.ca/en/).
Amble along lanes lined with locally-owned WHAT’S NEW?
shops. Linger over dinner at a table overlook- The Polar Bear Express, a train to Moosonee CITY LIGHTS
ing a waterfall, lake or canal, then unwind on the shore of James Bay, will inish a major Toronto is a magnet for cosmopolitan
in a quaint B&B. Ontario’s many small upgrade of its coaches (www.ontarionorth travellers. Browse for merchandise in
towns and cities are havens of relaxation. land.ca/en/refurbishment/polar-bear-express). lagship international stores along Bloor
 ON
87

Street and luxurious shops in Yorkville

(www.bloor-yorkville.com), or unique
boutiques and galleries in the restored
Victorian-era buildings of the Distillery
District (www.thedistillerydistrict.
com). Teeter 116 storeys above the city on
the CN Tower’s EdgeWalk (www.edgewalk
cntower.ca). Relax on the shore of Lake
Ontario at Harbourfront Centre (www.
harbourfrontcentre.com), or on the green
parkland of the islands across the city
harbour (www.torontoisland.com).
Luxurious hotels, noted restaurants, and
professional baseball, hockey, basketball,
football and soccer—Toronto has it all.
In Ottawa, the irst stop for many is
Parliament Hill, where you can enjoy ABORIGINAL EXPERIENCES, THUNDER BAY • ON TOURISM/JOEY PANETTA
everything from a sound-and-light show to
yoga on the lawn (www.parl.gc.ca ). The Hill
overlooks the Rideau Canal, a UNESCO at Lansdowne Park is home to the city’s Don’t miss the excellent attractions in
World Heritage Site that draws cyclists, Canadian Football League franchise, the the province’s smaller cities, which range
boaters and skaters (www.parkscanada.ca/ Ottawa REDBLACKS (www.ottawaredblacks. from the Art Gallery of Hamilton (www.
eng/lhn-nhs/on/rideau/index.aspx ). com ), as well as the Ottawa 67’s of the artgalleryohamilton.com ), the Canadian
Nearby, farmers’ stalls, independent Ontario Hockey League (www.ottawa67s. Canoe Museum in Peterborough (www.
boutiques and popular nightclubs keep the com ). And Ottawa will be a focal point of canoemuseum.ca ) and the Canadian
ByWard Market humming from morning to the country’s 150th birthday celebrations Bushplane Heritage Centre in Sault Ste.
night (www.byward-market.com ). TD Place this year (www.ottawa2017.ca ). Marie (www.bushplane.com ), to historic
ON
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ST. JACOBS • SHUTTERSTOCK/JHVEPHOTO
public markets such as the Kingston Public
Market (www.kingstonpublicmarket.ca ) and
the Covent Garden Market in London (www.
coventmarket.com ).
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Whether you’re a nature novice or a
seasoned outdoor adventurer, Ontario has
wilderness space for you—and many ways
to help you enjoy it.
Unspoiled landscapes vary from the
remote lakes and rivers of ly-in ishing
camps (www.northwest-ontario.com ) to the
quaint cottage country of Thousand Islands
National Park (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
thousandislands ).
The Ontario Parks’ Learn to Camp
program ofers hands-on practice in
pitching a tent and cooking outdoors at
several of Ontario’s provincial parks (www.
ontarioparks.com/learntocamp).
Wherever you go, you can choose from
an incredible range of adventures. Train
your binoculars on migrating birds at the
Pelee Island Bird Observatory (www.pibo.ca/
en ). Walk high above the forest loor in the
Ganaraska Forest (www.treetoptrekking.
com/en/ganaraska ) or the Haliburton Forest
(www.haliburtonforest.com ). Hunt for rare
stones in Bancroft (www.hastingscounty.
com/visit/rockhounding ) or hike an
outstanding long-distance trail (www.
ontariotrails.on.ca ). The Canadian Canoe
Route (www.thecanadiancanoeroute.ca )
starts in Toronto and inishes in Ottawa. Go
cross-country or downhill skiing near
Collingwood, on the scenic shores of
Georgian Bay (www.visitsouthgeorgianbay.ca ).
Dive among shipwrecks at Fathom Five
National Marine Park near Tobermory
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/fathomive ) or in
the St. Lawrence River (www.1000islands.
com/sunken-treasures-the-wrecks-of-the-
1000-islands). Try cycling, sailing, kayaking,
rock climbing, spelunking, snowmobiling,
dogsledding, ice ishing, snowshoeing or
snowboarding!
QUICK FACT
THE LAST ICE AGE CARVED SOME 250,000
LAKES INTO THE ROCKY CANADIAN SHIELD
ACROSS ONTARIO.
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
Theatre lovers are spoiled for choice in
Ontario. Toronto alone ofers blockbuster
productions by Mirvish Productions (www.
mirvish.com) and a wide range of plays
presented by other theatre companies; check
What’s On TOnight for tickets (www.whatson
tonight.ca). Elsewhere, noteworthy theatre
festivals include the Stratford Festival
(www.stratfordfestival.ca) and the Shaw
Festival (www.shawfest.com). Classical
music fans can revel in performances by
Ottawa’s National Arts Centre Orchestra
(www.nac-cna.ca/orchestra), the Toronto
Symphony Orchestra (www.tso.ca) and the
Canadian Opera Company (www.coc.ca),
while dance aicionados have the National
Ballet of Canada (national.ballet.ca).
Fine art has many homes across the
province, including the Art Gallery of
Ontario (www.ago.net ), the McMichael
Canadian Art Collection (www.mcmichael.
com ) and the National Gallery of Canada
(www.gallery.ca). Learn about Ontario’s
Aboriginal Peoples at Petroglyphs Provincial
Park near Peterborough (www.ontarioparks.
com/park/petroglyphs ) and the Museum of
Ontario Archaeology in London (www.
archaeologymuseum.ca ). Aboriginal history
is also one of many topics covered by the
world-renowned Royal Ontario Museum
(www.rom.on.ca).
History bufs can choose from meticu-
lously preserved historic sites and living
history museums, including: Fort Henry
(www.forthenry.com ) and Upper Canada
Village (www.uppercanadavillage.com )
in Eastern Ontario; Fort George (www.
parkscanada.gc.ca/fortgeorge ) and Old Fort
Erie (www.niagaraparks.com/niagara-
falls-attractions/old-fort-erie.html) near
Niagara Falls; Fort York (www.fortyork.ca )
and Black Creek Pioneer Village (www.
blackcreek.ca ) in Toronto; Doon Heritage
Village (www.waterlooregionmuseum.com/
doon-heritage-village.aspx ) in Kitchener;
and the Buxton National Historic Site and
Museum in North Buxton, near Chatham
(www.buxtonmuseum.com).
MUST SEE, MUST DO
Discover an underwater wonderland of
some 16,000 creatures at Ripley’s Aquarium
of Canada in downtown Toronto (www.
ripleyaquariums.com/canada).
See one of the world’s most diverse lilac
collections at Canada’s largest botanic
garden, the Royal Botanical Gardens in
Burlington (www.rbg.ca).
Thrill to the thunder of North America’s
most powerful cataract, Niagara Falls,
where nearby attractions range from great
shopping and family fun to glittering
casinos (www.niagarafallstourism.com).
Travel to the base of Niagara Falls on a
catamaran with Hornblower Niagara
Cruises (www.niagaracruises.com).
Revel in Ontario’s glorious fall colours
aboard the Agawa Canyon Tour Train,
which departs from Sault Ste. Marie
(www.agawacanyontourtrain.com).
Cutting across Southern Ontario from
Windsor to the Québec border, the over
1,600-km (1,000-mi.) Waterfront Trail—
open for cycling, hiking and other types

of non-motorized transport—links 84
communities and over 400 parks and
natural areas (www.waterfronttrail.org).
Learn about everything from the earth’s
crust to the far reaches of the galaxy at
Science North in Sudbury, which features
a planetarium, a butterly gallery and a
wetlands lab, as well as Dynamic Earth—
home of the Big Nickel (www.science
north.ca).
Delve into Canada’s fur-trading history
at Fort William Historical Park, a living
history site in Thunder Bay (www.fwhp.ca).
SCENIC DRIVES
The 1000 Islands Parkway winds along the
St. Lawrence River, where you can kayak,
canoe, scuba dive or take a boat tour
(www.visit1000islands.com).
Driving routes through the Ottawa Valley
focus on everything from logging history
to Group of Seven artist A.Y. Jackson
(www.ottawavalley.travel).
The Apple Pie Trail winds through scenic
landscapes in the Blue Mountains region
(www.applepietrail.ca).
The Loyalist Parkway between Trenton and
Kingston traces Ontario’s late 18th century
ON
89
history (www.pec.on.ca/lpa).
There’s a scenic route in Southwestern
Ontario for just about every interest, from
birding to beaches (www.ontariossouth
west.com).
The area around Stratford is home to
culinary trails devoted to chocolate, maple,
and bacon and ale (www.visitstratford.ca/
savour-stratford).
Enjoy rugged, dramatic vistas and superb
camping along Lake Superior’s north shore
(www.superiorcountry.ca).
FAMILY FUN
Amusements abound at Wild Waterworks
(www.wild-waterworks.com), Playdium
(www.playdium.com) and Canada’s
Wonderland (www.canadaswonderland.
com). Santa’s Village appeals to both
toddlers and teens (www.santasvillage.ca).
Little ones might also enjoy Storybook
Gardens (www.storybook.london.ca). Plane
bufs should see the Canada Aviation and PUKASKWA NATIONAL PARK • PARKS CANADA
Space Museum (www.casmuseum.techno-
science.ca). Finally, sites for animal lovers
include the Cambridge Butterly
Conservatory (www.cambridgebutterly. PARK PICK
com) and African Lion Safari (www.
PUKASKWA NATIONAL PARK
lionsafari.com). For more inspiration:
Explore 1,878 sq. km (725 sq. mi.)
www.ontariotravel.net.
of northern forests and rugged
Canadian Shield landscapes on the
shore of Lake Superior, the world’s
largest freshwater lake by surface
area. The province’s only wilderness
national park, Pukaskwa ofers
visitors superb outdoor experiences
and opportunities to connect with
the rich history of local First Nations
people. You can learn about the
Seven Grandfather Teachings of the
Anishinaabe on a guided hike, create
an Ojibway loral beaded item or
dream catcher, or enjoy a night of
drumming around a Fire Circle.
On summer nights, sunsets bathe
driftwood-dotted beaches and
towering clifs in shades of crimson
and gold. Set up your tent in a
campground or truly escape the
world at a backcountry campsite
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/pukaskwa).
National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
1-888-773-8888
OTTAWA, ON • SHUTTERSTOCK/MICHEL LOISELLE
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NIAGARA FALLS MISTRIDER ZIPLINE • SHUTTERSTOCK/JHVEPHOTO
NIAGARA: ENGAGE YOUR SENSES
BY BARBARA RAMSAY ORR
There’s something personally signii-
cant about visiting one of the world’s
natural wonders like Niagara Falls. A irst
view will take your breath away and make a
permanent impression, a reminder of the
awesome power of Nature and of our place
in the grand scheme of things.
It is something you never forget. From
the wild waters of the Falls to the rolling
beauty of wine country, the Niagara Region
is a testament to natural majesty, and a
banquet for all of the senses.
And for the mind? Niagara’s history,
theatres, visual arts and the new opportuni-
ties for meditation take care of that.
Niagara has you covered, head to toe.
CHOOSE YOUR VIEW
OF THE FALLS
For visual impact, nothing beats the Falls,
no matter what angle from which you view
them. The most famous way to get an
intimate look at this wonder is on a
Hornblower cruise, which will take you
right up to the base of Horseshoe Falls
(www.niagaracruises.com).
For a diferent view, hover above the
spray in one of Niagara Helicopters’ lights,
getting a bird’s-eye look at the area. Their
new leet of whirlybirds provides the added
comfort of air conditioning, lower noise
levels and unrivalled safety (www.niagara
helicopters.com). Want a more sybaritic way
to enjoy the Falls? Dinner at a Fallsview
restaurant, like Elements on the Falls, lets
you enjoy ine local cuisine and wine while

watching the low. Even more relaxing is
waking up and seeing the morning mist
over the Falls from your bedroom window
in one of the hotels that ofers spectacular
overviews. Or see the rush of the rapids
with a visit to the White Water Walk or on a
journey across the Niagara Gorge on the
Whirlpool Aero car (www.niagaraparks.com ).
To see the Niagara River down low, take
a jet boat ride with Whirlpool Jet Boat Tours.
Be prepared to get wet (www.whirlpooljet.com).
LIGHT UP THE NIGHT
Niagara has long been famous for the artful
lighting of the night Falls, but now it is even
more spectacular. In a major investment
last year, the existing lights were replaced
with new, energy-eicient LED lighting
technology, providing more than twice the
previous lighting levels, programmable
lighting, and a wider spectrum of colour.
In addition to the nightly illuminations,
there is the brilliance of ireworks over the
Falls. Niagara Parks continues to host
Canada’s longest running ireworks series
in Queen Victoria Park, from May to
September.
Visitors in September will not want to
miss the Onguiaahra Sound and Light Show,
a presentation by Niagara Parks that will
combine the power of water, sound
and laser lights to showcase the magic of
Niagara Falls, projected on a 100 by 35 ft.
water and mist screen (www.niagaraparks.
com/niagara-falls-events/sound-and-light-
show.html ).
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91
WHIRLPOOL AERO CAR • ON TOURISM/GOH IROMOTO
NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE • ON TOURISM
MINDFULNESS IN THE MIST,
OR IN THE VINEYARDS
It’s good for the body and mind to slow
down, contemplate and connect with your
surroundings, and Niagara encourages
visitors to do just that. One of the newest
popular activities is Namaste Niagara, a
yoga series organized by Niagara Parks and
held on select Sundays during the summer.
Admission to the event includes parking,
private access to Journey Behind the Falls, a
45-minute yoga workshop right at the brink
of the Falls and brunch at the Queenston
Heights Restaurant.
For those who like an indulgence after
their workout and meditation, Megalomaniac
Winery in Vineland runs yoga sessions on
their outdoor terrace during warm weather,
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JOURNEY BEHIND THE FALLS • SHUTTERSTOCK/NICK STARICHENKO
with fantastic views of Lake Ontario, and
the opportunity to visit the tasting rooms
afterwards. They host live jazz nights too
(www.megalomaniacwine.com ).
SIPPING AND SAVOURING
It’s not surprising that the culinary scene
and the wineries of Niagara now rival the
Falls in popularity. Year-round, visitors
can tour, taste and feast at the many easily
accessed wineries. In winter, visitors can
“chill” at the Ice Wine Festival. You haven’t
really experienced a “Nuit Blanche” until
you have dined in the icy (but heated!)
white tents set up on the streets of
Niagara-on-the-Lake on a chilly winter
evening (www.niagarawinefestival.com).
Be one of the irst to try this year’s wines
at the Niagara New Vintage Festival,
and indulge your love of ine white
wines at the International Cool Climate
Chardonnay Celebration, or i4C, in July
(www.coolchardonnay.org).
Companies like Crush on Niagara
Wine Tours ofer visits to the vineyards
(www.crushtours.com ), while Zoom
Leisure Bikes organizes cycling tours
(www.zoomleisure.com ). Another
attractive option is the Niagara Helicopters
wine tour where you can ly over the Falls
and then take in the vineyards by air,
landing at a local winery for a tour and
tasting or a gourmet meal (www.niagara
helicopters.com ).
WINES WITH ALTITUDE
It’s easy to do your own individual tasting
tour as most wineries are well-signed and
an excellent self-touring map allows you
to choose between large establishments
FLORAL SHOWHOUSE • NIAGARA PARKS
 ON
93

and smaller ones that are aggressively for a breath-stopping ride. Experience the jumping, and swinging aerial games—a
pushing the boundaries of winemaking Falls in a whole new way: hanging from a diferent way to explore the Niagara River
(www.wineriesofniagaraonthelake.com/cta/ 67-m-high (220-ft.) vantage point on one of —with options for both adventurous adults
greatest-winery-tour). four parallel zip-lines at speeds over 70 and kids aged 5-12 (www.wildplay.com ).
How about a visit to Ontario’s only ly-in km/h (40 mph), along the edge of the
vineyard? Sue-Ann Staf Estate Winery is a Niagara River gorge and down to the Falls GOURMET NIAGARA
small boutique operation, with the tasting observation area. Niagara is synonymous with good food, so
room in the family dining room. Owner and In addition, WildPlay’s new Whirlpool it is logical that some of Canada’s celebrity
vintner Sue-Ann is also a pilot, and her winery Adventure Course presents the thrill of chefs have moved to Niagara and are
is the only ly-in winery in Ontario with two suspended obstacles and zip-lines above producing superb locally-sourced food.
grass runways and coordinates available the Niagara gorge. It also includes climbing, All of the Niagara Parks restaurants are
for touch down (www.sue-annstaf.com ).
Westcott Vineyards is another small
family-run winery, located in a re-situated
200-year-old Mennonite barn. The winery
makes a bubbly that will blow your socks of
and serves fresh and tasty lunches on the
verandah (www.jordanstationwinery.ca ).
OF 18 12 CO ME TO LIFE
CELEBRATING 150 YEARS SEE THE WAR RE DE 1812
E LA GU ER
OF CANADIAN PRIDE
IENCE D
History abounds in Niagara, and it is no
surprise that the area will be busy with
VIVEZ L’EXPÉR
special events and celebrations for Canada’s
sesquicentennial.
Fort George National Historic Site is an
accurately restored fort where costumed
interpreters re-enact history (www.parks
canada.gc.ca/fortgeorge ). The Fort will
salute Canada during a rousing Canada Day
event, featuring period music, a barbeque,
musket demonstrations and cannon irings,
concluding with a concert and ire-
works display. This season Fort George will
also be paying homage to author Jane Austin
with lectures, and a “Persuasion” tea party.
Niagara Parks is planning a year-long
series of programs and initiatives to
celebrate the sesquicentennial around the
theme of “Rooted.” There will be new
pollinator gardens throughout the parks
and the ongoing Life on Display installation
of miniature replica houses at the Floral
Showhouse.
A new exhibit at the Butterly Conservatory
will celebrate Ontario’s native species, in late
Celebrate the 150th anniversary of Confederation in 2017
summer. The signature event, Rooted, will
by taking advantage of free admission to all Parks Canada
include the Majestic Monarch Release at the
places for the entire year.
Butterly Conservatory, and Nuit Vert: Dinner
parkscanada.gc.ca/fortgeorge
Under the Canopy, prepared by local chefs.
Not to be missed are the 25,000 red and Célébrez le 150e anniversaire de la Confédération en 2017
white tulips planted by Niagara Parks en profitant de l'entrée gratuite à tous les endroits de
within Queen Victoria Park. Parcs Canada pour toute l’année.
parcscanada.gc.ca/fortgeorge
GRAB THE GUSTO
Adrenaline junkies will rejoice at WildPlay’s
MistRider Zipline to the Falls which
whistles you along the edge of the Falls
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NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE • SHUTTERSTOCK/KIEV VICTOR
now “Feast ON” certiied, a criteria-based
program that recognizes businesses that
use products sourced as locally as possible,
celebrates local producers, and commits to
NIAGARA PARKS BUTTERFLY CONSERVATORY •
ON TOURISM/GOH IROMOTO
showcasing Ontario’s unique taste of place.
Expect fresh and interesting local dishes at
all their dining places, like Queenston Heights
Restaurant, or Legends on the Niagara
where you can enjoy a locally sourced meal
in the clubhouse and also get in a few
rounds of golf on its renowned courses.
There are excellent afordable dining
options in the area. The Backhouse, a
Niagara-on-the-Lake restaurant devoted to
cool climate sustainable cuisine, ofers an
intimate dining experience with a seat at
the chef’s bar where you can sit by the ire
and watch the cooks in action (www.
backhouse.xyz ).
Many wineries have developed
excellent in-house restaurants serving
locally-inspired food. The 13th Street Winery
is a family-run winery with a brand new
tasting bar and wine boutique, a sculpture
garden, original Canadian art on the walls,
and culinary art (think butter tarts) in the
on-site bakery (www.13thstreetwinery.com ).
Creekside Estate Vineyards, which is
producing some great Riesling and a
delicious unfussy bubbly, is serving all
things smoked—ribs, pulled pork, salmon—
on the wooden verandah overlooking the
vineyard (www.creeksidewine.com ).
DRAMA ON THE LAKE
Niagara-on-the-Lake is well-known for the
Shaw Festival (www.shawfest.com) and is
featuring George Bernard Shaw’s Saint Joan
and Alan Bennett’s Madness of George III this
year. But this historic town also ofers good
shopping along the historic main street and
carefully restored inns and manor house
hotels, such as the elegant neo-Georgian
Queen’s Landing (www.vintage-hotels.com)
or the intimate Harbour House Hotel (www.
harbourhousehotel.ca). The Prince of Wales
Hotel is a Victorian-style hotel located close
to the Shaw Festival theatres and shopping
area. The town is also well supplied with
bed and breakfast establishments, like the
Historic Davy House Bed & Breakfast Inn
(www.davyhouse.com).
GET IN TOUCH WITH
YOUR INNER TOURIST . . .
IN NIAGARA
Niagara has so much—and the Falls are just
the beginning of the adventure. Plan to spend
some serious time here to fully connect to
the energy of this exceptional place, and to
experience all that the region has to ofer
every one of your senses (www.tourismnia
gara.com; www.niagarafallstourism.com).
A view to thrill
Niagara Helicopters Flightseeing Tours

Niagara Helicopters
3731 Victoria Avenue
Niagara Falls, ON
905 357 5672
niagarahelicopters.com
ON
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ALGONQUIN PROVINCIAL PARK • CTC
YOUR ONTARIO RESORT IS WAITING
BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
Perhaps it’s the comfort and traditions
that keep regulars coming back to Ontario’s
resorts. Like a well-rounded menu, there
seems to be something for everyone—cou-
ples looking for a little “we” time, families
looking to carve out some moments on the
same page, high-stressed working profes-
sionals looking to disconnect, unwind and
. . . breathe deeply. It’s all part of a growing
trend to “Go Resorting.”
Ontario’s resorts are a four-season afair,
the perfect getaway where rocks, forests and
water paint the backdrop. “Getting away to
the lake” is a quintessential Ontario
experience, served up with a dose of
personal lavour that’s a special part of
many family-operated properties. As
family-owned inns, resorts and cottages are
passed from one generation to the next,
they are noticing that repeat guests are
now introducing their own children and
grandchildren to the treasured resort
experience. Nostalgia is enjoying a come-
back as people look for opportunities to
go back to simpler times.
THE HARVEST IS HALF
THE FUN
You are… intrigued by learning about and
awakening your tastebuds to new lavours
and scents.
Head to… The chefs at The Briars—
an hour north of Toronto—choose local
ingredients, from their own gardens when
possible. Guests love the popular weekly
Garden Barbeque, an outdoors classic to
make the most of Lake Simcoe’s lovely
summer evenings (www.thebriars.ca ). In the
Kawarthas, Viamede Resort’s two restaurants
are guided by a farm-to-table philosophy,
featuring foraged, locally-sourced ingredi-
ents. The Boathouse ofers casual lakefront
dining while the intimate Mount Julian
restaurant is a ine dining experience with
multi-course tasting menus and a well-
stocked wine cellar (www.viamede.com ).
Elmhirst’s Resort, on the shores of Rice
Lake, helps guests ind the perfect culinary
vacation style. Enjoy being catered to with
the resort meal plan or cook your day’s catch
in your well-appointed cottage kitchen or
on the barbeque on the deck overlooking
the water (www.elmhirst.ca ). For those that
like to dabble in the kitchen, a visit at The
Waring House incorporates overnight stays
at one of Prince Edward County’s most
exclusive inns with hands-on, themed
 ON
97

cookery classes (www.waringhouse.com ).
Because… For those who appreciate good
food and drink, exploring a culinary destina-
tion is a way to learn how chefs source
fresh, local ingredients and create magic to
bring exciting tastes to your dinner plate.
A SHORELINE IS THE
SHORTEST DISTANCE
BETWEEN TWO
GENERATIONS
You are… hoping to ind a favourite place
for you and your family to reconnect.
Stay at… Most of Ontario’s resort
properties are on the water and people love
to swim in the province’s lakes. The inn and
cottage-style accommodation at Fern Resort
is one of the few family all-inclusive resorts
in Ontario. A year-round activities program
keeps all family members busy—from wee
ones through seniors. Their successful
formula creates time for kids to explore and
experience throughout the daytime and for
families to reunite at meal times and
evenings. The emphasis is on quality:
games, trails, watersports, and especially
family time together (www.fernresort.com ).
Bayview Wildwood Resort has been
recognized by ResortsandLodges.com as a
“Top Ontario Family Vacation” property.
Activities include wintertime pond hockey,
summertime ishing, swimming, biking
and watersports (www.bayviewwildwood.
com ). The summer months at Beachwood
Resort near Peterborough are family time.
The four-season, lakefront property ofers a
variety of lodgings to accommodate
diferent-sized groups (lodge rooms,
condos and cottages sleep from two to 12),
perfect for popular multi-generational
vacations. Set on 121.4 ha (330 acre), all
activities are included—from the on-site
waterpark, waterskiing and tubing, canoes
and kayaks, to irewood for the nightly
campire (www.beachwoodresort.com ).
Because… The range of possible family
experiences is unlimited. The authentic
choices at Ontario’s resorts have a broad-
based appeal and are perfect for multi-
generational travel.
those who love the wilderness but appreci-
ate the comforts of a good bed at day’s end.
The adventuresome traveller will appreciate
the Destination Canada Signature
Experience—a three-day Algonquin Park
canoe trip topped of by two nights at the
Algonquin Log Cabin (www.voyageurquest.
com ). Inside Algonquin Park, the intimate
Bartlett Lodge greets guests with a water
taxi and a solar electric-powered pontoon
boat for the short trip to the lodge. With
only 46 resort guests, Bartlett Lodge is a
restful and relaxing setting, without the
interruption of radios, telephones or
televisions in any of the accommodations
(www.bartlettlodge.com ). Hockley Valley
aims to make as small a carbon footprint as
possible by maintaining an on-site fruit and
vegetable farm that supplies 80 percent of
the produce for the resort’s restaurants,
choosing green products and following
responsible and sustainable business
practices (www.hockley.com ).
Because… Appreciating Ontario’s
unique and precious environment is an
important part of who you are and the
conscious choices you make.
KINDLE THE FLAME OF
ROMANCE
You are… looking for ways to keep the lame
glowing, spending time to reconnect and
relax for a little romance.
Head to… The classic Elm Hurst Inn &
Spa in southwest Ontario has been a long-
time favourite destination for weddings,
anniversaries and romantic getaways. The
expansive grounds can accommodate all-
sized functions from intimate celebrations
in the unique wood beam carriage house to
larger tented events for up to 300 people. The
inn also ofers in-room couples massages as
part of the Romantic Overnight Getaway
package (www.elmhurstinn.com ). The
Westwind Inn caters primarily to adults—
mostly couples—but singles will feel right
at home as well. The small, all-inclusive
country inn is surrounded by the breathtak-
ing nature of the Kawartha Lakes District.
Low key, casual and comfortable, Westwind
is an inviting rustic lodge-style getaway that
is perfect for couples looking to spend quality
time together (www.westwindinn.net ).
Because… You need time for romance to
strengthen the bonds that make you a couple.
More Information
Resorts of Ontario members include more
than 100 resort hotels, resort lodges, cottage
resorts and intimate country inns. In 2017,
the association marks its 75th anniversary.
Check the Resorts of Ontario website for
information and an on-line reservations
service (www.resortsofontario.com).

NATURE COMES CALLING

You are… wanting to experience Ontario’s
wildlands and make a gentle footprint when
you take time for yourself.
Head to… Algonquin Canoe and Log
Cabin Adventures is located of the beaten
track and 100 percent of the grid—ideal for
ALGONQUIN PROVINCIAL PARK • CTC
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KILLARNEY LODGE
KILLARNEY LODGE: A QUIET REFUGE
BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
Memories built and memories still to be
shaped and remembered. That’s at the heart
of Killarney Lodge, an historic family-run
resort in Ontario’s Algonquin Park.
The lodge is a quiet refuge of 27 private
lakeside log cabins dotting the shoreline,
tucked into the woods and craggy rocks of
the Canadian Shield landscape.
Visitors to the lodge will discover a
comfortable spot with the lovely, familiar
feel of somewhere they may have experi-
enced in the past—a cottage, cabin, resort or
inn from travels gone by. Killarney Lodge is
always improving but is modest about
creating that special place, attracting repeat
guests, over and over again. Being so close
to everything Algonquin Park has to ofer,
the lodge makes a great base from which to
experience the best of the parkland.
Now into its eighth decade, this historic
property was started in 1935 as a ishing
lodge with a few cabins. At the time, there
was just one gravel road from Huntsville,
bringing visitors to Algonquin Park,
SPECIAL INFORMATION FEATURE
Ontario’s oldest provincial park. Algonquin
and Killarney Lodge have become much-
loved destinations for those who crave the
outdoors, as a wilderness getaway, a place to
reconnect with nature and, for some, a
personal spiritual retreat.
Killarney Lodge is “a little oasis” on a
peninsula jutting out into Lake of Two
Rivers, so every cabin has its own private
stretch of waterfront. One of few resort
properties located inside the park boundar-
ies, it is the perfect base camp for exploring
the surrounding lakes, trails and primeval
forests. Close to the roadway corridor that
passes through the park, there is easy access
to the best the area has to ofer—including
hiking trails that criss-cross the parkland,
the visitor centre, bike rentals and nature
centre programs on everything from the
park’s human history to the magical sound
of the howling wolf.
Killarney Lodge is a true “getaway” where
guests are persuaded to unplug and discon-
nect, leaving the fast pace of everyday life
behind. Cabins are light on high tech—you
won’t ind television, radio or a telephone.
Step outside on a crisp, clear night for some
natural entertainment as the magic of
star-illed skies grabs hold. Push a canoe of
from shore (each cabin comes with its own
canoe) and head out for a slow morning
paddle, drinking in the sights and sounds
on the quiet waters of the lake. Indulge in a
little wildlife watching—moose, deer,
beavers, loons and, if luck is on your side,
perhaps a bear or the elusive wolf.
A stay at the lodge includes three meals
each day and nighttime snacks 24/7. Guests
heading of to explore the park can pack a
hearty picnic lunch illed with enough food
to keep energy levels up along the trail. The
lodge’s kitchen is known for ine country-
style dining, making full use of herbs fresh
from the garden and home-baked desserts
served in a casual log dining room that has
been described as “both rustic and elegant.”
Killarney Lodge is a three-season resort,
open from early May until mid-October.
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100
BLUEBERRY POINT • PORT CUNNINGTON LODGE
PORT CUNNINGTON LODGE
LEAVES YOU WANTING MORE
BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
It’s impossible to ind someone who
remembers the irst day they opened the
doors at Port Cunnington Lodge—in 2017
the Muskoka property celebrates 127
years—a unique spot where old world
charm and a peaceful lakeside setting keeps
generations of vacationers coming back.
Port Cunnington is a gathering place; a
small, family-owned resort property where
staf pride themselves on providing
attentive service and building relationships
with their guests. As one of the Muskoka’s
oldest resorts, the focus is on the quality of
surroundings and time spent by guests,
creating a calmness and relaxation by
trimming the distractions and stresses of
the outside world. Taking time and
developing connections is at the heart of the
lodge philosophy: connections with family
and connections with nature.
Just 20 minutes outside Algonquin Park,
Port Cunnington Lodge aims to create a
special space where guests can step away
from the noise and the hustle and bustle of
everyday life. Whether a guest is from the
next town over, from a big city or from
SPECIAL INFORMATION FEATURE
overseas, a stay at the lodge creates the
quintessential Canadian experience. It’s
more of a time-honoured, traditional style
of hospitality, encouraging people to
reconnect with friends and family, to slow
the pace down. There is no television in the
units, WiFi access may be limited and,
often, by the end of a week’s stay, guests ind
they have happily disengaged from the
“wired world” and have managed to reunify
with the people important to them.
That’s not to say there is nothing to do at
Port Cunnington. While the lodge doesn’t
ofer a dedicated children’s program, the
focus is on encouraging a family platform
with low key activities that help people to
relax and renew relationships: painting
classes, wildlife shows, evening hikes, yoga
and campire storytelling. It’s also an oppor-
tunity to try new things. Imagine mothers
and daughters developing a new, shared
hobby at the easels during paint night.
Or, if programming is not in the cards,
it is possible to just curl up in front of the
ireplace with a good book or a board game.
Recreational options are all included in a
stay. On the water there are canoes, kayaks
or paddleboards, and nearby marinas ofer
powerboat rentals. The Lake of Bays
waterfront is family-friendly with excellent
swimming along two sand bottom beaches.
Water trampolines and a dive platform
challenge the more adventurous. Landside
there is a small putting green, volleyball,
shuleboard, ping pong, tennis courts and
hiking trails, with the wilderness of
Algonquin Park just a short drive away.
Open for three seasons—spring through
fall—the resort’s personality changes with
the time of year. Springtime is popular for
weddings, corporate functions and golf
getaways, when groups can rent the entire
property if needed (the suites and chalets
can accommodate up to 134 people).
Summertime is dedicated to families, the
most popular time for week-long stays.
Although meals are not included in daily/
weekly rates, dining room meal plan
options are available in the historic main
lodge. Self-catering is popular; cooking
together can be another way families
reconnect.
Our historic resort has been welcoming guests for over 125 years. At Port Cunnington Lodge
& Resort we make it easy to relax and unwind with our commitment to old-fashioned warm
hospitality. Escape it all with a romantic getaway for two, a cottage country family vacation or a
retreat with colleagues to refocus and energize — there are so many reasons to choose Port
Cunnington Lodge & Resort. Visit our website for complete details on planning your best vacation
ever. We look forward to seeing you this summer!

CUSTOM CHALETS • TRADITIONAL COTTAGES • MULTIPLEXES • WEDDINGS & BANQUETS

portcunnington.com • 1-800-894-1105 • 705-635-2505

1679 PORT CUNNINGTON ROAD LAKE OF BAYS, R.R. #1 • DWIGHT, ON P0A 1H0
 Westwind Inn on the Lake Beachwood Resort
Cosy Lakefront Country Inn in Scenic Kawartha Lakes A Hidden Gem in the Heart of the Kawartha Lakes

Romantic 35 room cedar lodge nestled amongst towering pines on
pink granite rock at the water’s edge in a truly spectacular natural
wilderness setting. Primarily for adults, mostly couples, singles love
it here also. Comfy rooms. Delicious meals. Casual dining & dress.
Peaceful relaxation. Quiet, Serene. 1/4 mile of private lakeshore on
65 acres. Nature trails, beach, boats, bikes, pool, hot tub.
Tucked away on the edge of Lower Buckhorn Lake, Beachwood’s gentle
sloping shoreline and 330 acres of trails and wildlife offer a “Kawartha
Cottage Getaway” with the amenities of home. Lakeside lodgings,
flexible meal plans and resort activities are perfect for intimate getaway
family holidays, multi generational retreats, weddings & meetings.
2 hrs from Toronto Int’l Airport, 30 min. from Peterborough Airport.

TEL: 705.657.8095• TOLL-FREE: 1.800.387.8100 TEL: 705.657.3481 • TOLL-FREE: 1.888.313.1118

info@westwindinn.net • westwindinn.net info@beachwoodresort.com • beachwoodresort.com

Fern Resort
No one treats families like Fern!

With over a mile and a half of lakeshore, our exclusive location is the ideal blend of safety, fun and relaxation, perfect for your time together.
With all inclusive meals in our Heritage Dining Room over-looking Lake Couchiching and our entertainment & resort facilities, every family
member’s day at Fern Resort is full of carefree enjoyment. Teens love the excitement of the Extreme Park; Youths love the high energy sports
as well as the crafts; Juniors are thrilled with the fabulous fishing; the younger guests are completely spoiled with the supervised Playvillage;
and parents love the hassle free time to do what they want to do. Discover the priceless experience of 120 years of the Downing family’s
commitment to creating family memories.

TEL: 705.325.2256 • TOLL-FREE: 1. 800.567.3376 • getaway@fernresort.com • fernresort.com

Ask for your FREE Resort Guide at resortsofontario.com

 Elm Hurst Inn & Spa The Waring House Inn
Unique Country Inn, Restaurant & Spa In SW Ontario Restaurant, Conference Centre & Cookery School

Enjoy a breath of fresh air at Ingersoll’s Elm Hurst Inn & Spa. Nestled
on 33-acres of countryside, our newly renovated 49-room Inn, has
been a SW Ontario landmark since 1872. Conveniently located
for day-tripping or a relaxing stop-over. Just off Hwy 401, midway
between Toronto & Windsor. Stay. Dine. Spa. Celebrate. Explore.
Member, Ontario’s Finest Inns.
With 49 individually decorated rooms and suites and a choice for
dining (Amelia’s Garden or the Barley Room), the Waring House
enjoys a reputation for hospitality, fine regional cuisine, an excellent
meeting venue, picture-perfect weddings, recreational cookery
classes, and a location central to Prince Edward County’s attractions.

TEL: 519.485.5321 • TOLL-FREE: 1.800.561.5321 TEL: 613.476.7492 • TOLL-FREE: 1.800.621.4956

accommodations@elmhurstinn.com • elmhurstinn.com reception@waringhouse.com • waringhouse.com

Hockley Valley Resort

A Boutique Four Season Destination

Nestled in the picturesque Hills of Headwaters, just 45 minutes north of Toronto, Hockley Valley Resort boasts scenic landscapes and beautiful
backdrops and modern, upscale guest rooms. An 18-hole golf course, 15 ski and snowboard runs during the winter season and a luxurious
8,000 square foot spa are just a few of the amenities we offer. And don’t forget about our food! Our farm-to-table dining experience is sure
to impress with many of the ingredients harvested right from our own farm. Be sure to visit Adamo Estate Winery during your visit, we are
Canada’s only four season resort with its own full scale winery!

TEL: 519.942.0754 • TOLL-FREE: 1.866.HOCKLEY (462.5539) • info@hockley.com • hockley.com

Ask for your FREE Resort Guide at resortsofontario.com

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1000 ISLANDS • THE GREAT WATERWAY
THE GREAT WATERWAY TAKES
YOU TO UNEXPECTED PLACES
BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
When somewhere is known as “great” it
broadens the spectrum of possible experi-
ences. This is true in Southeastern Ontario
where ribbons of meandering lakes, rivers
and bays of the majestic St. Lawrence River,
the historic Rideau Canal, Lake Ontario and
the Bay of Quinte are known collectively as
The Great Waterway—just a 90-minute drive
from Toronto, Ottawa or Montréal, and a
quick hop from the United States at the
Thousand Islands, Prescott-Ogdensburg and
Cornwall-Massena bridges (www.thegreat
waterway.com).
It begins with water—sandy beaches
and dune-lined shores, some of the world’s
best freshwater sailing, outstanding dive
sites and exploration by kayak, powerboat
or on a leisurely cruise. But not everything
is on the water. Visit award-winning
wineries, parks and hiking trails, golf
courses, community festivals, music,
theatre and slot in some time for fantastic
downtown shopping.
BAY OF QUINTE
In the Bay of Quinte, getting outdoors is a
way of life. Walleye abound for those with a
passion for lake ishing; area guides and
outitters ofer chartered ishing tours or
point ishermen to “walleye hotspots.”
Cruising Canoes specializes in water and
nature experiences with small group kayak
trips and camping expeditions. GoActive
Ontario customizes adventure tours like
stand up paddleboarding or snowshoeing.
The Bay of Quinte has earned its spot on
the map as an active golf destination.
There’s a it for golfers of every skill level,
with some of the country’s inest public
facilities and one of Ontario’s oldest
courses. Some have sweeping vistas over
the Bay of Quinte and Picton Bay, others are
tucked between groves of trees, rolling hills
and natural grasslands.
The National Air Force Museum of
Canada honours Canada’s military aviation
and its evolution into today’s modern air
force. It boasts a world-class collection of

aircraft, including one of a few remaining
WWII Halifax bombers, the Handley Page
Halifax (www.bayofquinte.ca/tourism).
PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY
“The County” has become a fast-growing
culinary destination, renowned for artisanal
cheesemakers, cideries, breweries, distil-
leries and market stands. The Great Canadian
Cheese Festival is a nod to The County’s
deep cheesemaking roots providing tasting,
buying and learning opportunities. The
popular Taste Trail is a self-guided tour
linking the producers of fresh-picked fruits
and vegetables, locally-raised meats,
artisanal cheeses, homemade baked goods,
wines, ciders and craft beers.
Prince Edward County is also known as
one of Ontario’s top wine destinations, home
to more than 40 wineries with an incredible
diversity of vintages. Local chefs incorpo-
rate local wines and farm-fresh produce
into their seasonally-changing menus.
Sunbathers, water babies, campers and
nature lovers are drawn to the expansive
beaches and towering dunes at Sandbanks
Provincial Park. It is also a popular spot
for birdwatchers who come during spring
and fall to watch the annual migrations
(prince-edward-county.com ).
LAND O’LAKES
A short drive from Kingston is a picturesque
region of some 5,000 lakes and rivers; a vast
playground ideal for outdoor play, serviced
by marinas, lodges, cottage resorts, B&Bs
and campgrounds.
Cast a line or troll as your boat loats
down the river. Fishing here is easy—even
for youngsters and those new to the sport.
The OFAH TackleShare program at Frontenac
Provincial Park provides free rod and tackle
loaners. Experienced anglers can choose
from a menu of lakes, streams and rivers
across the region.
The semi-wilderness of Frontenac
Provincial Park is a patchwork of Canadian
Shield granite outcrops, vast wetlands and
deep lakes—a hiker and paddler’s dream. This
is cottage country and a destination for star-
gazers with clear views of the night sky and
the Milky Way (www.travellandolakes.com).
RIDEAU HERITAGE ROUTE
The Rideau Canal is the watery link
connecting small villages between the city
of Kingston and the nation’s capital, Ottawa.
Towns along the Rideau—including
Merrickville, Perth and Westport—are
popular stops for cottagers and daytrippers
searching for unique products, attentive
service and an intimate atmosphere.
Westport ofers the perfect lakefront
PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY • THE GREAT WATERWAY
ON
105
setting; small back streets sprinkled with
unique shops, antique haunts, bakeries,
restaurants and tea rooms. Picturesque
Merrickville has worn the mantle of
Canada’s most beautiful village. The
compact downtown is home to boutiques,
studios and galleries housed in many
heritage, Victorian-era properties.
The historic 202-km (126-mi.) waterway
draws the boating crowd, from canoes to
luxury houseboats. In all, there are 47 locks,
most still operating the original hand-
cranks to open and close the water cham-
bers. To celebrate Canada’s 150th this year,
Parks Canada admissions are free, as well as
lockage at historic canals and waterways
(www.rideauheritageroute.ca).
KINGSTON 1000 ISLANDS
There’s no shortage of atmosphere inside
Kingston’s Fort Henry, one of the city’s top
attractions. Behind the thick limestone
walls of the largest fortiication west of
Québec City is a living museum of 1800s
military life, highlighted by marching
demonstrations and the world-famous
Sunset Ceremony re-enactment.
Kingston’s beautiful downtown streets
are a showcase of 19th century limestone
architecture. You can also experience an
authentic farmers’ market, a hopping culinary
scene and unique one-of-a-kind shops.
There’s lots of action on the water too.
A great way to explore the heart of the 1000
Islands is aboard a scenic boat tour, meander-
ing through the beauty of the islands from
the deck of a magniicent cruise vessel.
Choose from a harbour cruise along
Kingston’s historic waterfront, a sunset
dinner cruise or longer voyage through the
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GLENGARRY HIGHLAND GAMES • THE GREAT WATERWAY
heart of the Islands. Lake Ontario’s reliable
winds attract sailors, windsurfers and kite
surfers. Downtown slips are illed with
bobbing watercraft, especially during late
summer when Kingston hosts the annual
Canadian Olympic-training Regatta
Kingston—CORK (www.visitkingston.ca).
GANANOQUE 1000 ISLANDS
The soul of Gananoque is a main street
lined with historical and cultural sites, in
addition to a popular waterfront that is a
major gateway to the scenic 1000 Islands.
It is possible to arrive by boat to take in
a play or concert at the internationally-
acclaimed Thousand Islands Playhouse,
one of the region’s most active theatres,
consistently named one of the top summer
theatre festivals in the province.
Gananoque visitors get out on the water
—kayaking expeditions just steps from
downtown, throwing in a ishing line,
renting a houseboat or getting aboard one
of the popular island boat cruises. You can
also experience the quaint village of Rockport
via a scenic drive along the 1000 Islands
Parkway. While in Rockport enjoy a scenic
cruise that visits the famous Boldt Castle.
Not far from downtown, hop aboard a
helicopter for a bird’s-eye view of the
islands (www.1000islandstourism.com).
BROCKVILLE 1000 ISLANDS
Downtown Brockville is home to the
Aquatarium, a discovery centre with
interactive adventures and experiences
telling the story of the seafaring history,
culture and ecosystems of the 1000 Islands.
This summer will mark the grand reopening
of Canada’s oldest railway tunnel, at the
Rails to Trails Festival in mid-August. The
historic tunnel was completed more than
two decades before construction of the
Canadian Paciic Railway even broke ground.
Along the 1000 Islands Parkway, the
new Skywood Eco Adventure is Canada’s
largest aerial adventure and zip-line park,
with tree top adventures including zip-lines,
canopy tours and aerial games for all skill
levels.
Brockville’s waterfront is also a popular
departure point for traditional and high-speed
cruises of the 1000 Islands, including stops
at both Singer and Boldt castles, dining
cruises and unique outings aboard a tall ship.
Scuba divers can expect world-class
freshwater diving, thanks to excellent water
clarity and an abundance of shipwrecks.
Local dive operators provide a full menu of
SKYWOOD ECO ADVENTURE • THE GREAT WATERWAY
training, support services and equipment
rentals (www.brockvilletourism.com).
CORNWALL AND THE
COUNTIES
Enjoying the outdoors is easy along the
Waterfront Trail, a dedicated cycle/recre-
ational path along Cornwall’s St. Lawrence
River shoreline. Cyclists, runners and
walkers can enjoy water bottle reill
stations, plenty of park benches, nature
trails and picnic areas. 
In Cornwall, there’s a reinvigorated
downtown core illed with boutique shops
and unique eateries. Festivalgoers mark
their calendars for events like the annual
Cornwall Ribfest and the renowned Glengarry
Highland Games—one of the world’s largest
Highland Games.
Local museums track area history. The
furniture and artefacts at the Cornwall
Community Museum tell of life from 1784
to the completion of the St. Lawrence Seaway
Project in 1959. The interactive, historical
Upper Canada Village portrays life in the
1860s. Costumed interpreters create a
“living history” where visitors can step into
a working bakery, sawmill, blacksmith,
schoolhouse and small cheese factory
(www.cornwalltourism.com ).
As an authentic destination, The Great
Waterway shouldn’t be missed. From a place
to explore on (or under) the water to a hub
for cultural events to a display of rich history,
this water-infused destination thrives and
takes visitors to unexpected places.
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QC
110

QUÉBEC

ST. PAUL ST., OLD MONTRÉAL • SHUTTERSTOCK/BAKER JARVIS

What you can say about Québec is that it always leaves you
LIVING wanting more.

AT THE There’s a little something for everyone—for the well-heeled

culture divas as well as those who prefer laced-up hiking boots
HEART OF and a crackling campire at the end of the day. The uniqueness
of these experiences is found in ive-star resorts and
IT ALL BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
campgrounds, the joie de vivre of Québécois festivals—many
rich in song and music—as well as on the dinner plate, along
tasting trails and in craft breweries.

Canada’s largest province, la belle
province is known for its deep traditions
rooted in centuries of French history and
culture. The heart-warming traditions of
the people and communities are found in
their warm smiles and pride of place and
history.
That famous Québec passion is in the
air. Visitors ind themselves immersed in
an irresistible tableau of experiences,
sights and emotions that spark the
beginning of a love afair with the
province. Visit, share and open yourself to
becoming wrapped in the heart of it all.
FOUR SEASON ADVENTURES
Québec is a landscape of superlatives
easily explored throughout the entire year.
There’s warmth, plus an energy and glow
that blanket the province. Québecers love
to celebrate by illing their months with
special events and festivals. It’s their way
to mark dignity and joy in their vibrant
heritage and, happily, doors are wide open
to visitors.
Everywhere, Québec’s National Holiday
is celebrated on June 24th with shows,
parades, bonires and ireworks. When the
sun shines and the air is warm, there are
music festivals—Montréal International
Jazz Festival (Festival International de Jazz
de Montréal), Québec City Summer
Festival (Festival d’été de Québec) and
many others—as well as cultural festivals,
including the Just for Laughs Festival
(Juste pour rire).
Summertime is glorious in both the
cities and the countryside. It is the perfect
time to visit pick-your-own farms, follow
the province’s food trails, or become
immersed in the unspoiled wilderness by
hiking, climbing and paddling. There is
something for everyone who is drawn to
the outdoors.
As the seasons peak, autumn brings a
dramatic splash of colour to the hardwood
8,326,100
Québec City
www.quebecoriginal.com/en
Montréal-Pierre Elliott Trudeau
International Airport,
20 km (13 mi.) from downtown
Québec City Jean Lesage
International Airport,
16 km (10 mi.) from downtown
forests, and springtime follows with the
sweetness of maple syrup. A large percent
of the world’s maple syrup is produced in
Québec, making its many sugar shacks a
popular springtime destination for
samples of just-boiled syrup and treats
like traditional maple syrup tafy.
When snowlakes fall, the people of
Québec embrace the natural wonder of
wintertime. Snowmobiling, cross-country
and downhill skiing, snowshoeing, ice
skating and dogsledding are just the tip of
the iceberg. Québecers celebrate hockey
like no other spot on earth—the Montréal
Canadiens are the oldest hockey team in
the world that has played without
interruption.
The Québec Winter Carnival—the
world’s largest—anchors the wintertime
with its snow slides, ice sculptures and
canoe race on the frozen St. Lawrence
River. Across the province, they pay
homage to the cooler seasons—from Polar
Nights (Les Nuits Polaires) in Trois-
MINGAN ARCHIPELAGO NATIONAL PARK RESERVE • LE QUÉBEC MARITIME/ÉRIC MARCHAND
QC
111
Rivières to the fall Oktobierfest in
Sainte-Adèle, and all points between.
HISTORY IS A PART OF THE
CULTURAL FABRIC
History is not forgotten in Québec. Rather
than being relics that are swept aside,
history and heritage are embraced and
celebrated. Locals and visitors dress up in
period costume at the New France Festival
(Les Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France) in
Québec City, a place that knows how to
show of its roots. Canada’s most
“European” city, Québec City, is known for
heritage buildings that harken back to the
days of New France, narrow cobblestone
streets and excellent cuisine.
The Old Port of Montréal stretches for
two km (1.24 mi.) along the St. Lawrence
River. An historic clock tower marks the
entrance to the port, a pedestrian-friendly
area of boutiques, bistros, small markets
and street entertainment.
In Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean, the Site
of New France (Site de la Nouvelle-France)
recreates the daily life of the colony of
Quebéc in the 17th century. Nearby, the
historical village of Val-Jalbert is a way to
experience company town life in the
1920s, complete with 40 or so original
period buildings.
FOLLOW YOUR TASTEBUDS
There’s a deep connection between land
and people—from the soil that produces a
breadbasket of crops and the dedicated
QC
112
SPECIAL EVENTS
JANUARY – FEBRUARY
• Igloofest, Montréal
• Montréal Snow Festival
• Québec Winter Carnival,
Québec City
FEBRUARY – MARCH
• Montréal en Lumière
APRIL
• Saguenay Jazz & Blues Festival
MAY – JUNE
• Go Bike Montréal Fest
JUNE
• Canadian Formula 1 Grand Prix,
Montréal
• Les FrancoFolies de Montréal
JUNE – OCTOBER
• International Garden Festival,
Gaspésie
JULY
• International Fireworks Festival,
Montréal
• International Percussions
Festival, Montréal
• Just for Laughs Festival,
Montréal
• Montréal Cirque Festival
• Montréal International Jazz
Festival
• Québec City Summer Festival
• Tremblant International Music
Festival
AUGUST
• Montréal First Peoples Festival
• Montréal Pride
• New France Festival, Québec City
• Rogers Cup, Montréal
AUGUST – SEPTEMBER
• Gatineau Hot Air Balloon Festival
OCTOBER
• Fright Fest, Montréal
• Québec Intercultural
Storytelling Festival, Montréal
www.quebecoriginal.com/en-ca
farmers who create this culinary magic.
Québec’s gastronomic trails link the
harvest of the countryside with the
markets of the cities. The trails are known
for artisanal cheese producers, small
production vintners, local growers and
specialty producers. Exploring the trails is
a way to meet the people who create the
province’s signature products, from foie
gras to springtime maple syrup.
The Farmlands Route (Chemin du
PLACE ROYALE • QUÉBEC CITY TOURISM/JEAN-FRANÇOIS BERGERON/ENVIRO FOTO
Terroir) loops through the Laurentians
countryside, with stops at producers of
wines and ciders, maple goods, fresh-
picked apples and Québec’s famous
fromageries.
The Gourmet Route (Le Parcours
gourmand) links restaurants and craft
producers in the greater Québec City area,
including those on historic Île d’Orléans,
famous for pick-your-own berries in the
height of summer.
Charlevoix’s Flavour Trail (La Route des
Saveurs) links more than 40 local growers,
producers and restaurateurs who produce
and serve regional products such as ciders,
artisanal beers, pâtés, cheeses, spices and
ine chocolates.
Grape growers and vintners—and many
bistros and restaurants—are a part of
Québec’s Wine Route (La Route des vins).
The winemakers in ive distinct regions
have created an on-line tool to help visitors
design customized routes (www.vinsdu
quebec.com/en/route-des-vins).
THERE’S ALWAYS ROOM
Whether in the big city or the small villages,
the people in Québec know how to open
their doors and make visitors feel welcome.
It could be quirky and fun, like Zoobox,
an innovative solar-wind-powered loft
where everything is lexible—even beds
and the bathtub can be moved outside! Or
Parc Aventures Cap Jaseux’s tree houses,
suspended spheres and rustic log cabins. In
the Québec Maritime region, the lighthouse
at Brandy Pot is run as a B&B that retains its
historical charm. In Charlevoix, Maison du
Bootlegger is a colourful house with hidden
doors and secret passages that date back to
the era of Prohibition.
Of course, there are the resorts and
historic properties that the province is
famous for: the much-loved Le Château
Frontenac perched on a bluf in Québec
City; the boutique Auberge Saint-Antoine;
and, in Montréal, the luxurious Hôtel Le
St-James; The Queen Elizabeth (undergoing
renovations and reopening mid-year); and
Le Saint Sulpice.
QUICK FACT
THE LE MASSIF DE CHARLEVOIX SKI HILL
HAS THE HIGHEST VERTICAL DROP EAST OF
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
WHAT’S NEW?
The new Pierre Lassonde Pavilion at
Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec
(MNBAQ) is an architectural gem—the
four museum galleries cover every facet
of Québec’s art history.
Those looking for an adrenaline rush can
brave the new 300-m (984-ft.) double
zip-line crossing spectacular Montmorency
Falls. The trip can be done duo or solo
(www.sepaq.com/ct/pcm/?language_id=1 ).
Valcartier Vacation Village completed the
addition of a major indoor recreation and
tourism complex to complement the
seasonal outdoor waterpark. It features an
indoor waterpark and four-star hotel. The
site has also acquired the unique Hôtel du
 QC
113

Glace—Ice Hotel—with its 44 rooms, huge Sauvage de Saint-Félicien (www.zoo 2017 marks the 50th anniversary of the
snow vaults and crystalline ice sculptures sauvage.org/en/anima-lumina). Festival d’été de Québec (July 6-16). Ten
(www.valcartier.com).   stages on the Plains of Abraham and in the
A new seven-day, hop-on/hop-of pass Old Town showcase world music.
Visitors to Carnaval de Québec can now is now available on the Saguenay Fjord
participate in an ice canoe race experience. marine shuttle. The pass allows CITY LIGHTS
The challenging activity includes equip- travellers to create their own cruise The province’s unique European sensibility
ment, instruction, guide and even a on the jord by hopping on and of at lavours the intersection of art, culture and
warm-up hot chocolate on the ice (www. the ive stops between La Baie and history. This is a big part of the city centres—
quebecicecanoeing.com).  Tadoussac, from July 1 to September 4 Montréal and Québec City—with their wealth
(www.croisieresdujord.com). of museums, galleries and special exhibits.
Ulittaniujalik National Park is a new park
in Nunavik, Québec’s far north region. As
Québec’s second largest park, it provides a
sanctuary for caribou calving grounds on
the expansive George River Plateau.
THE MONTREAL
Winter 2016/17 was the irst season for a
new wintertime experience package at TOWER
Tursujuq National Park, located near the
shores of Hudson Bay. Nine-day excursions
to explore the Inuit way of life include SEE MONTRÉAL FROM
THE TOP OF THE TALLEST
snowmobiling, Nordic skiing, snowshoe-
ing, guided excursions and camping (www.
nunavikparks.ca/en/parks/tursujuq).
INCLINED TOWER IN
The National Hockey League (NHL) will be
celebrating its 100th anniversary and Montréal
THE WORLD. *
will be hosting some of the activities,
joined by Wayne Gretzky, the centenary’s
oicial ambassador (www.nhl.com).

Nova Lumina is a new 1.5-km (0.9-mi.)

multimedia nighttime walk under the
starry skies at Chandler in the Gaspésie,
where the land meets the sky (www.
novalumina.com).

Îles de la Madeleine has added two new

lavour trails — the Food Trail and the Tour
of Typical Dishes—with stops at local food
producers, growers and artisans, and
samplings of authentic Island dishes
served in local restaurants (www.tourism
eilesdelamadeleine.com). EXHIBIT GUIDED
STADIUM TOUR
Want to stay in a shelter resembling giant
bird nesting boxes? The unusual glamping
SINCE 1976 INCLUDED

experience is found at Parc Nature de AT THE BASE OF THE

Pointe-aux-Outardes on the north shore of
the St. Lawrence River. Tucked into an
OLYMPIC STADIUM TOWER
old-growth pine forest, a “nest” stay COME REDISCOVER THE OLYMPIC
includes sleeping bags, propane stove, PARK’S GREATEST MOMENTS.
cooler, dishes and utensils (www.quebec
maritime.ca/parcoutardes).
 
Anima Lumina is a multimedia nighttime
forest walk recently opened at the Zoo * For more information: parcolympique.ca/latour
QC
114
SNOWSHOEING • TOURISM LAURENTIANS
In Québec City, small music clubs, funky
bars, boîtes à chansons (intimate venues for
the province’s singer/songwriters) and
music festivals like the Québec City Summer
Festival (Festival d’été de Québec), one of
Canada’s biggest music festivals (www.
infofestival.com ), contribute to a vibrant
arts scene.
Cosmopolitan Montréal sits at a cultural
crossroads, rooted in both Anglo and franco-
phone heritage. This year, Montréal celebrates
this diversity as a part of its 375th anniversary.
The city has put together itineraries to help
inspire visitors (www.tourisme-montreal.
org/blog ).
Montréal abounds with theatre and dance,
music and circus arts, and museums and art
galleries showcasing everything from cutting-
edge works to timeless classics. An under-
ground system of pedestrian passageways,
RÉSO, connects Métro stations and corridors
illed with boutiques and small shops.
Montréal is renowned for its lively
summer gatherings—from jamming
sessions to dance fests. In cool contrast,
take in a concert at Old Montréal’s Notre-
Dame Basilica, a neo-Gothic masterpiece
with marvellous acoustics (www.basilique
nddm.org/en). Or visit the quays of the Old
Port on foot or by Segway, where perfor-
mances range from reggae to harbour
symphonies created with ships’ horns.
Year-round, chic prevails in Old
Montréal’s clubs, trendy bistros and the free-
spirited Latin Quarter’s cocktail bars. The city
teems with bars, discos, microbreweries,
cigar lounges, cafés and outdoor terraces.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Outdoor enthusiasts can soak up Québec’s
untamed wilderness by visiting the province’s
numerous parks. With thousands of
crystal-clear lakes and an impressive range
of wildlife, they are idyllic for camping,
canoeing, ishing, cycling, mountain biking
and hiking. In winter, the guarantee of snow
creates a paradise for downhill and
cross-country skiing, dogsledding and
snowshoeing (www.sepaq.com).
Every August the sky becomes a canvas
for the shooting stars of the Perseid meteor
showers, and in Tremblant they mark the
occasion with a family-friendly event,
“Tremblant Beneath the Stars” (www.
tremblant.ca ).
Two-wheelers take to “la Route verte,”
a 5,300-km (3,293-mi.) web of cycling and
multi-use paths that criss-cross the
province, creating the largest cycling
network in the Americas.
Spectacular sightlines are the norm
at about 300 Québec public golf courses.
One of the most challenging is Le Géant at
Mont-Tremblant, a master’s 18-hole
championship course carved out of the
Laurentian landscape.
In the Laurentian Mountains north of
Montréal, Le P’tit Train du Nord Linear Park
is a former railroad track converted into a
230-km (143-mi.) level biking trail—and a
cross-country ski trail in winter—between
Saint-Jérôme and Mont-Laurier (www.
laurentides.com/en ). Or ride a panoramic
gondola to the summit of Mont-Tremblant.
Whale watching from Tadoussac, Baie-
Sainte-Catherine and Rivière-du-Loup, gets
visitors close to nature with sightings of
minke, humpback and even the rare blue
whale, as do boat cruises from the tip of
the Gaspé Peninsula to the seabird sanctu-
ary at Bonaventure Island (www.quebec
maritime.ca ).
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
Montréal has designed a unique way for
anyone with a good helping of curiosity and
an interest in heritage to learn about the
city. “Montréal en Histoires” is an interac-
tive way to play with history and test
knowledge using a mobile app that guides
users through 60 points of interest. The
project includes daytime and nighttime
scenarios, including 19 short movies
projected on buildings, streets and trees
through Old Montréal (www.montrealen
histoires.com).
Québec City is the only walled city north
of Mexico, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
and a textbook of 17th and 18th century
architecture. Begin with a visit to
Battleields Park, also known as the Plains of
Abraham, the site of pivotal clashes between
French and English forces (www.ccbn-nbc.
gc.ca ). Catch the view from the Duferin
Terrace overlooking the St. Lawrence River,
or stop for tea at Le Château Frontenac, the
world’s most photographed hotel (www.
quebecregion.com).
One of Canada’s premiere community
festivals happens in the Old World ambi-
ence of Québec City. The summertime New
France Festival (Les Fêtes de la Nouvelle-
France) is a showcase of the roots of
francophone culture. Costumed revellers
celebrate all that makes Québec unique,
from music and history to food and
literature (nouvellefrance.qc.ca/home).
The Québec Aboriginal Tourism
Corporation is home to the Pow-Wow Trail, a
one-stop list of First Nations special events
including music, dance, handicrafts and
food (www.quebecaboriginal.com ).
MUST SEE, MUST DO
More than 40 tall ships will be rallying at
Québec City (July 18-23) as part of Rendez-
vous 2017’s celebration of the 150th anniver-
sary of Canada’s Confederation (www.
rdv2017.com).
The region of Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean is
well-known for its premier biking routes,
including the Véloroute des Bleuets
(Blueberry Route) encircling a scenic lake
(www.veloroute-bleuets.qc.ca/en).
The city of Montréal is marking its 375th
anniversary with a year-long celebration of
more than 175 events including musical
shows, world-class dance, parties, historic
experiences and giant marionettes
(www.375mtl.com).

 In the Gaspésie region, Plongée Forillon and
Auberge Grifon Aventure provide unforget-
table experiences swimming with harbour
seals, starish and lobster (www.plongee
forillon.com; www.aubergegaspe.com/en).
Foresta Lumina in the Eastern Township’s
Parc de la Gorge de Coaticook is an interac-
tive multimedia trail that wanders along a
night-illuminated pathway for a magical
experience (www.forestalumina.com/en).
Visitors to Huttopia Canada’s getaways in
Sutton experience a serene outdoors stay in
chalets and high-end eco-tents tucked into
forest settings with a river nearby for
paddling (canada.huttopia.com/en).
  
SCENIC DRIVES
Dominated by the highest mountain peaks
of southern Québec, the Eastern Townships’
193-km (120-mi.) Summit Drive reveals one
gorgeous panorama after another.
Forged by glaciers, the picturesque Fjord
Route follows the winding Saguenay jord
—one of the longest in the world (235-km/
QC
115
146-mi.)—with a never-ending show of
imposing rock faces and majestic capes.
PARK PICK
Route du Richelieu’s historic 265-km FORT LENNOX NATIONAL
(165-mi.) transportation road traces both
HISTORIC SITE
An hour south of Montréal, hop onto
sides of the lovely Richelieu River,
a ferry and cross the Richelieu River
encompassing historic villages, archaeo-
to Fort Lennox National Historic Site
logical digs, museums, heritage churches
and you are transported back in time
and bucolic landscapes.
to 19th century British North America.
The fort was originally built as a
The 280-km (174-mi.) King’s Road (Chemin
stronghold against potential invasion
du Roy) is Canada’s oldest roadway,
from the U.S. to the south. Soldiers in
linking Québec City to Montréal along
period costume act as interpretive
the St. Lawrence River’s spectacular north
guides, giving a glimpse into what
shore.
garrison life was like for British
Redcoats and their families. Fort
FAMILY FUN
Lennox is also a place for peaceful
Montréal’s Barbie Expo is the largest
and relective walks along the fort’s
permanent exhibit of Barbie dolls in the
stone ramparts or on one of the trails
world. More than a thousand one-of-a-
through the surrounding green space
kind Barbies are dressed in the haute
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/lennox).
couture of world-renowned designers
including Christian Dior and Diane Von
Furstenberg. There are celebrity Barbies— National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
Cher, Jennifer Lopez, Elizabeth Taylor— 1-888-773-8888
and movie themed Barbies like The Wizard
of Oz and Cleopatra. Admission is free.
NB
116
756,800
Fredericton
www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca
Greater Moncton Roméo LeBlanc
International Airport,
8 km (5 mi.) from downtown
Fredericton Airport, 15 km
(9 mi.) from downtown
Saint John Airport, 16 km
(10 mi.) from downtown

NEW BRUNSWICK
HOPEWELL ROCKS

The province of New Brunswick makes this bold statement on its

EAST OF tourism homepage: Travel East of Ordinary where original people

ORDINARY BY SANDRA PHINNEY

perfectly complement the beauty of this place. Explore and discover
what being East of Ordinary is all about. So be inspired. Be
adventurous. Be yourself. Be East of Ordinary.
Now that’s a big claim, but one that the province fulills in spades.

CLAIMS TO FAME
For starters, New Brunswick has spawned
countless larger-than-life characters. To
wit: novelist Julia Hart wrote St. Ursula’s
Convent back in 1824—the irst piece of
iction by a Canadian-born author to be
published in Canada. John Peters
Humphrey penned the Universal
Declaration of Human Rights which was
adopted by the United Nations General
Assembly in 1948, and people are still
talking about Yvon Durelle and his
light-heavyweight championship boxing
match against the great Archie Moore in
1958.
Hollywood has featured many New
Brunswickers on the big screen, including
Donald Sutherland, Walter Pidgeon and
Brett Somers. And the lists of “irsts” run
the gamut from Willie Eldon O’Ree, the
irst black player in the NHL, to Myrtle
“Molly” Kool, the irst female sea captain
in North America.
New Brunswick is also the birthplace of
other famous characters including Stompin’
Tom Connors and Klondike Kate (Katherine
Ryan). Abraham Gesner invented kerosene
here. The list is endless: this is the stuf that
New Brunswickers are made of.
DEEP ROOTS
Roots run deep in the province. In fact,
Metepenagiag—a 3000-year-old Mi’kmaq
ishing village also known as Red Bank—
is New Brunswick’s oldest continuously
occupied community. Along with the

Maliseet and Passamaquoddy, they were
the irst known inhabitants in the region.
Fast forward to 1604 when the French
established the irst colony in North
America on St. Croix Island. Although the
expulsion of the Acadians began in 1755,
they were allowed to return nine years later.
Before the end of that century, thousands of
Loyalist exiles from the American
Revolution moved into New Brunswick. In
1785, Partridge Island (on the outskirts of
Saint John) was established as a quarantine
station—100 years before Ellis Island! Over
3,000,000 immigrants from all over the
world stepped foot on Partridge Island.
Many communities in the province
showcase their culture. Events and festivals
take centre stage and experiences abound.
Oh yes—and New Brunswick is the only
bilingual province (English/French) in the
country.
ALL SEASON PROVINCE
One of the unique things about New
Brunswick is that it is also big on winter
sports and activities. With one of the longest
snow seasons in the province, Sugarloaf
Provincial Park ofers the largest variety of
winter outdoor activities in one location,
from Alpine skiing, cross-country, snow-
shoeing and tobogganing, to ice skating,
snowmobiling, tubing and snowboarding.
Fredericton is noted for Frostival, a
family-friendly outdoor festival, which will
be celebrating its 5th anniversary this year
with over 150 events. For something out of
the ordinary, slip up to Plaster Rock for the
World Pond Hockey Championship, where
over 120 teams worldwide compete for
trophies—and for the pure love of the sport.
WHAT’S NEW
The Fundy Biosphere Reserve has created
an Amazing Places Challenge from April to
August for Canada’s 150th celebration. Fifty
amazing hiking destinations have been
identiied in the reserve and the challenge
is for people of all ages to experience them,
with prizes being awarded for those
completing speciic increments of the
challenge. A website companion piece will
include logistical information as well as
stories about local characters, photographs
and important historical events in the
region (www.fbramazingplaces.ca/en).
West Hills Golf Club features a newly
completed 18-hole Par 72 course—a visually
dramatic course that is challenging,
memorable and exciting to play (www.
westhillsgolf.com).
NB
117
SHEDIAC BAY LOBSTER TOURS • CTC
Skywalk Saint John opened above the
Reversing Falls and is the talk of the town.
The Restigouche River Experience Centre
in Campbellton explores the history and
ishing of the region—and more! (www.
campbellton.org).
Village Historique Acadien has a new
restaurant called Café Bistro du Village,
with authentic Acadian fare including their
famous sugar pie (www.villagehistorique
acadien.com).
CITY LIGHTS
New Brunswick has one of the highest
concentrations of craft breweries in Atlantic
Canada. Several outlets featuring locally-
made meads, ciders and craft beers are
within walking distance of each other in the
capital city of Fredericton. To top it of,
Queen Street is chockablock full of unique
shops, tons of gobsmacking open spaces,
along with a performance theatre, hotel,
convention centre, and world-class gallery.
No wonder Fredericton is referred to as a
cultural capital (www.tourismfredericton.ca).
Saint John has earned the moniker
“Saint Awesome” because of a hugely
successful campaign by the same name
whereby it reintroduced the city’s distinc-
tive dining, outdoor, heritage and urban
experiences. It’s all here, including the
world-famous Reversing Falls and
Stonehammer Geopark—North America’s
irst UNESCO Global Geopark (www.
discoversaintjohn.com ).
Moncton/Dieppe, long known as “Hub
City,” is a feisty urban centre that features
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118
SPECIAL EVENTS
JANUARY – FEBRUARY
• Frostival, Fredericton
JUNE
• St. Mary’s (Sitansisk) First Nation
Powwow, Fredericton
JUNE – JULY
• Campbellton Salmon Festival
JULY
• Buskers on the Bay, Saint John
• Canada’s Irish Festival, Miramichi
• Lamèque International Baroque
Music Festival
• New Brunswick Highland Games
Festival, Fredericton
• Shediac Lobster Festival
AUGUST
• Chocolate Fest, St. Stephen
• Festival Acadien de Caraquet
• La Foire Brayonne, Edmundston
• Miramichi Folksong Festival
SEPTEMBER
• Atlantic International Balloon
Fiesta, Sussex
• Harvest Jazz & Blues Festival,
Fredericton
OCTOBER
• Thanksgiving Festival,
Kings Landing
www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca/
Do/FestivalsAndEvents.aspx
everything from major concerts and
incredible shopping, to a unique winery
and a zoo! In just two years, 17 murals have
been created here as a legacy of Festival
Inspire. And, believe it or not, you can
watch folks surf the tidal bore right into
the city; better yet, do it yourself!
(www.moncton.ca ).
For a walk on the wild side—and a good
dose of French Acadian culture—scoot up to
Edmundston. In 1949, two enthusiastic
citizens invented the concept of the
“Republic of Madawaska,” including a lag,
coat of arms, and the Order of the Knights of
the Republic. The concept stuck. This small
city rocks (www.tourismedmundston.com).
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Imagine kayaking among Hopewell Rocks,
paddling to Partridge Island, or slipping
into sea caves along the famous Bay of
Fundy! If you prefer fresh water paddling,
you can’t beat putting your canoe or kayak
in the lazy Green River close to Edmundston.
On Sundays, scores of people head to the
upper reaches of the river and party
downstream. Want to try tubing? Head to
the Miramichi. While in the region, hop
aboard a voyageur canoe at the Beaubears
Island Interpretive Centre and scoot across
the river for a tour of this famous island—
the only untouched shipbuilding site left in
Canada and home to two Parks Canada
national historic sites.
There are lots of outitters in the
province who can take you on short or
longer expeditions, including wilderness
paddling.
Hikers will be in hiking heaven
anywhere in the province as villages, towns
and cities have a plethora of hiking trails.
As well, Fundy Parkway Trail opened
another section leading to Long Beach,
which is 2.5 km (1.6 mi.) long. Close by,
climb down a cable ladder to the face of
Fuller Falls and enjoy the lookout above the
falls. Looking for a signiicant challenge?
Hike the Fundy Footpath—a 41-km
(25.5-mi.) continuous wilderness trail
(www.fundytrailparkway.com ).
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
New Brunswick has many attractions and
experiences to showcase its history and
diversity. For example, Kings Landing is a
living museum with costumed “British
Loyalist” interpreters. It spans over 300
acres, houses over 70,000 artefacts, and
ofers over 40 exhibits and engaging
activities and workshops (www.kings
landing.nb.ca).
To get a sense of Mi’kmaq culture—
both past and present—the place to be is
the Metepenagiag Heritage Park, located in
Red Bank on the Miramichi River, where
visitors are invited to share their music,
FROSTIVAL • FREDERICTON TOURISM
listen to stories told by the elders, and view
archaeological inds from the Augustine
Mound and Oxbow national historic sites
(www.metpark.ca).
Two of the best places to be immersed
in Acadian life are: Village Historique
Acadien up in Caraquet, where life plays
out between 1770 and 1949 (www.village
historiqueacadien.com); and Le Pays de la
Sagouine in Bouctouche where guests can
view spectacular theatre productions, enjoy
authentic Acadian food and foot-stomping
kitchen parties (www.sagouine.com/en).
QUICK FACT
RON TURCOTTE, A JOCKEY FROM GRAND
FALLS, RODE SECRETARIAT TO WIN THE
TRIPLE CROWN IN 1973.
MUST SEE, MUST DO
The Magnetic Hill Zoo—the largest
accredited zoo in Atlantic Canada—recently
opened a new Big Cats Exhibit featuring
two new tigers and a leopard (www.
moncton.ca/zoo).
Resurgo Place, home of the Moncton
Museum and Transportation Discovery
Centre, gives visitors a unique and
interactive experience focused on fascinat-
ing aspects of history, science and trans-
portation (www.resurgo.ca).
The Saint John City Market—open six days
a week—is one of the oldest continuing
farmers’ markets in Canada. Be sure to
check out Slocum & Ferris, famous for local
products such as lobster antipasto, dulse,
pickled iddle heads, and Ganong’s
“chicken bones” (www.sjcitymarket.ca).

The Miramichi Striper Cup—Atlantic Canada’s
premier striped bass “catch and release”
ishing tournament, with over $50,000 in
cash and prizes, takes place the last week of
May. During July, Miramichi will host a
number of Tall Ships as part of Canada’s 150th
birthday celebration (www.miramichi.org).
The New Brunswick Botanical Garden in
Edmunston is a fascinating attraction,
replete with a medicinal garden and herb
centre where workshops are ofered. Be
sure to locate Khronos, an outdoor
interactive installation (www.jardin
nbgarden.com).
SCENIC DRIVES
The Fundy Coastal Drive presents diversity
galore from island hopping in car ferries to
exploring the world’s highest tides and
savvy cosmopolitan centres.
The Acadian Coastal Drive is the place to
watch whales and to experience the
Acadian lifestyle. It also boasts the warmest
salt water beaches in the East.
Make us part of your travel plans
New Brunswick’s capital, nestled along the banks of the historic Saint John River, is rich in heritage,
culture and nature. Tree-lined streets lead to over 88 km of scenic trails connecting historic and cultural
sites like the Historic Garrison District, Beaverbrook Art Gallery, Provincial Legislature, Government
House and the award-winning living history museum, Kings Landing Historical Settlement.
www.fredericton.travel
NB
119
The River Valley Scenic Drive features the
storied Saint John River which is loaded
with history, intrigue, beauty and exciting
PARK PICK
experiences.
FUNDY NATIONAL PARK
Picture this: over 100 km (62 mi.) of
hiking trails, an historic covered
The Miramichi River Route encompasses
bridge, more than two dozen water-
the best of both worlds between Fredericton
falls, eight backcountry sites, three
—the hip and happening capital—and the
campgrounds, 12 km (8 mi.) of famous
Miramichi, renowned for salmon ishing
Fundy shoreline and a large chunk of
and Aboriginal culture.
the Acadian Highlands forest region. If
you don’t have your own tent, no
Along the Apalachian Range Route is
problem! You can rent accommoda-
Mount Carleton, the highest peak in the
tions including a yurt, oTENTik, rustic
Maritimes, and Sugarloaf Provincial
cabin, or the new and funky Goutte
Park—both perfect for outdoor adventures.
d’Ô. Part of the park’s charm is also the
variety of activities on ofer, from
FAMILY FUN
paddling the world’s highest tides, to
Magic Mountain Waterpark is hugely
swimming with the salmon for
popular—especially the new FunZone. As
science, or taking part in a traditional
well, kids love the long suspension bridge
Acadian kitchen party (www.parks
over Big Salmon River on the Fundy
canada.gc.ca/fundy).
Parkway Trail and the discovery hunt
checklist! At Kings Landing, “Visiting
Cousins” continues to get rave reviews, National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
along with a week-long “Keeper Camp” for 1-888-773-8888
teens at Magnetic Hill Zoo.
NS
120

949,500
Halifax
www.novascotia.com
Halifax stanield
International Airport,
35 km (22 mi.) from downtown

NOVA SCOTIA
SKYLINE TRAIL, CAPE BRETON HIGHLANDS • SHUTTERSTOCK/JUSTEK16

SAY “Farewell to Nova Scotia,” the province’s oft-recorded

unoicial anthem, is a soulful folk song that bids adieu to this

“HELLO”
BY SUSAN MACCALLUM-WHITCOMB
“sea-bound coast.” If you have been here before, you already
understand why so many people “grieve to leave.” If not, it’s
high time you were introduced to Nova Scotia’s charms.

SENSATIONAL SCENERY
The scenery alone can make you want to
linger indeinitely. Connected to the rest of
Canada by just a narrow neck of land, Nova
Scotia is essentially surrounded by water;
and every stretch of its 7,600-km (4,722 mi.)
coastline promises adventure opportunities
as well as oh-so-fresh seafood. Yet each also
has its own distinctive character.
The Minas Basin, for one, is a magnet
for migrating shorebirds, hundreds of
thousands of which descend each summer
to dine on its mud lats before lying to
South America. Nearby, the constant
beating of the Bay of Fundy tides uncovers
300-million-year-old fossils in Joggins’
UNESCO-designated clifs. The South Shore,
conversely, is dotted with centuries-old
towns and sheltered coves once frequented
by privateers; the Eastern Shore boasts
pounding surf; and between them is
Halifax, home to one of the world’s largest
natural harbours. Northumberland Strait,
meanwhile, is notable for warm, sandy
strands, whereas much of Cape Breton is
marked by loch-like inlets and rocky
highlands that drop dramatically to the sea.
Inland, the geography is equally varied,
which is why A-type vacationers can
explore the orderly vineyards of the
agricultural heartland and the wondrous
wilds of the Southwest Nova Biosphere
Reserve within a single day.

MUST-SEE SITES
Like its scenery, Nova Scotia’s man-made
attractions cover a broad range, from
museums to amusement parks, art galleries
to golf courses. Historic ones, however, are
especially plentiful here because the region
once played a crucial role in the imperial
plans of both British and French forces.
The star-shaped Halifax Citadel, for
example, is a literal highlight of any trip to
the capital city (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
halifaxcitadel), and the meticulously re-
created Fortress of Louisbourg lures history
lovers north to Cape Breton (www.
parkscanada.gc.ca/louisbourg ). The
Annapolis Valley, which contains some of
the continent’s oldest European settle-
ments, has even more in store. Witness
Port-Royal, founded by the French in 1605,
three years before they established their
base at Québec City (www.parkscanada.gc.
ca/portroyal ); Fort Anne, a.k.a. “the most
attacked site in Canadian history,” originally
erected in 1629 as an Anglo counterbalance
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/fortanne ); and
gorgeous Grand-Pré, where politically-
neutral Acadians were forced into exile for
refusing to pledge their allegiance to the
British crown in 1755 (www.parkscanada.
gc.ca/grandpre ). All are national historic
sites, and Parks Canada is waiving entry
fees to them in honour of Canada’s 150th
birthday.
Since so many major attractions here
fall under the Parks Canada umbrella—and
thereby qualify for complimentary
admission in 2017—the province ofers
visitors top value for their vacation dollar;
and the fact that it’s a good buy is just one
more reason why you’ll want to say “hello”
to Nova Scotia.
WHAT’S NEW?
In 2016, Bay Ferries reintroduced The Cat:
a high-speed catamaran that makes the
crossing between Portland, Maine, and
Yarmouth in 5.5 hours (www.ferries.ca/
thecat).
Last spring, WestJet’s regional carrier,
Encore, expanded into the U.S. and began
ofering direct daily lights between Halifax
and Boston (www.westjet.com/en-ca/index).
The Halifax Distilling Company and
Guysborough’s Authentic Seacoast
Distillery give visitors two more ways to
NS
121
PEGGY'S COVE • SHUTTERSTOCK/MEUNIERD
wet their whistle (www.halifaxdistillingco.
ca, www.authenticseacoastdistillery.com).
Cape Breton’s Cabot Clifs, named 2015’s
best new course in North America by
Golf Digest, oicially opened to the public
last year (www.cabotlinks.com/golf/
cabot-clifs).
In late July, a leet of tall ships arrives in the
capital to help celebrate Canada’s 150th
birthday (www.sailtraininginternational.org
/events/2017-canada-150-tall-ships-regatta).
The Discovery Centre’s new larger location
—featuring ive themed galleries—gives
families an added incentive to visit the
Halifax waterfront (www.thediscovery
centre.ca). 
CITY LIGHTS
If you need an urban ix, Halifax is the place
to go. Although this is Atlantic Canada’s
largest, most cosmopolitan city, its tourist
centre is conveniently compact, and most
major attractions—the Halifax Citadel, the
Historic Properties, the Maritime Museum
of the Atlantic and the Canadian Museum
of Immigration at Pier 21 among them—are
all within blocks of its huge natural harbour.
Tempting shopping, dining, and nightlife
options are close at hand as well. After
strolling around the bustling waterfront
boardwalk, you can take a leisurely harbour
cruise or follow the locals’ lead and hop a
commuter ferry for a quick cross-harbour
trip (www.destinationhalifax.com).
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122
SPECIAL EVENTS
JUNE
• Privateer Days, Liverpool
JUNE – JULY
• Royal Nova Scotia International
Tattoo, Halifax
• Stan Rogers Folk Festival, Canso
JULY
• Antigonish Highland Games
• Halifax Pride Festival
• Pictou Lobster Carnival
• TD Halifax Jazz Festival
AUGUST
• Chester Race Week
• Festival Acadien de Clare
• Festival de l’escaouette, Chéticamp
• Halifax International Busker Festival
• Lunenburg Folk Harbour Festival
AUGUST – SEPTEMBER
• Wharf Rat Rally, Digby
SEPTEMBER
• Atlantic Film Festival, Halifax
• Deep Roots Music Festival, Wolfville
• Gran Fondo, Baie Sainte-Marie
OCTOBER
• Celtic Colours International
Festival, Cape Breton
• Nocturne: Art at Night, Halifax
NOVEMBER
• Devour! The Food Film Fest,
Wolfville
www.novascotia.com/events
Sydney, technically part of the Cape
Breton Regional Municipality, is Nova
Scotia’s only other urban centre. Located on
the Island’s east coast, it has its own
waterfront boardwalk and a smattering of
heritage buildings. Moreover, it makes a
handy base for exploring attractions in
nearby Glace Bay, including the Marconi
National Historic Site which is dedicated to
the Italian radio pioneer who established a
transatlantic messaging station there in
1902, and the Cape Breton Miners’ Museum
where you can don a hard hat and descend
into a coal mine. The Fortress of
Louisbourg National Historic Site is 45
minutes away by car (www.cbrm.ns.ca ).
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Nova Scotia has been dubbed “Canada’s
Ocean Playground,” and since you’re never
more than 67 km (42 mi.) from a coast,
enjoying on-the-water activities is easy.
Boating is a top draw, which is no surprise
considering options include sailing on Bras
d’Or Lake, a stunning inland sea, and
paddling in Kejimkujik National Park and
National Historic Site—retracing routes
Native Mi’kmaq used for thousands of
years. Scuba diving and deepsea ishing are
also popular; ditto for suring, a fun if
somewhat frigid alternative on the Eastern
Shore. Looking for something truly unique?
You can experience the rush of rafting on
the Shubenacadie River, where a tidal bore
whips up big waves.
Landlubbers, of course, needn’t feel left
out. Choices for bikers and hikers abound.
The former love to pedal on the 119-km
(74-mi.) Rum Runners Trail connecting
Halifax and Lunenburg; while Cape Breton
Highlands National Park, which alone has
26 trails, is an ideal place for the latter to
lace up their boots. If golf is your game,
world-class courses span the province.
Standouts range from traditional favourites
HALIFAX CITADEL NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE • CTC
like Highlands Links and Fox Harb’r Golf
Resort, to new stars like Cabot Links and
Cabot Clifs, acclaimed sister courses.
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
Nova Scotia is Latin for “New Scotland” and
descendants of its Scottish settlers make
much of that connection—particularly on
Cape Breton Island, where you can take a
class or buy a kilt at North America’s only
Gaelic college (www.gaeliccollege.edu),
raise a glass at the continent’s irst single
malt whisky distillery (www.glenora
distillery.com), tour the Celtic Music
Interpretive Centre (www.celticmusiccentre.
com), then dance your feet of at one of the
summer ceilidhs (traditional Gaelic-inlected
parties) held Island-wide. The province,
however, isn’t entirely draped in tartan.
QUICK FACT
THE PROVINCE’S WINE INDUSTRY HAS A
LONG HISTORY; CHAMPLAIN PLANTED THE
FIRST GRAPEVINES HERE IN 1611.
After all, events like Festival acadien
de Clare (www.festivalacadiendeclare.ca )
and the Musique de la Baie concert series
(www.yarmouthandacadianshores.com/en/
things-to-do/view/musique-de-la-baie )
are tuneful testaments to the strength
of francophone culture here. Mi’kmaq
communities carry on the legacy of this
land’s original residents through powwows
and other special programs (www.nova
scotia.com/explore/culture/mikmaq-
culture), while contributions made by
new arrivals are celebrated at the moving
Canadian Museum of Immigration at
Pier 21 (www.pier21.ca ).
MUST SEE, MUST DO
Feast on fresh seafood. Lobster . . . scallops
. . . salmon: from waterfront shacks and
roadside fast food restaurants to ine dining
rooms, you’ll ind seafood topping menus
everywhere (www.tasteofnovascotia.com).
Ogle Lunenburg’s Old Town. Hundreds of
well-preserved heritage buildings have
earned this pretty port community’s
downtown core recognition from UNESCO
(www.explorelunenburg.ca).
Explore the Fortress of Louisbourg National
Historic Site. Turn back time to the mid-18th
century at North America’s largest historical

reconstruction (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/
louisbourg).
Snap a picture at Peggy’s Cove. It’s almost
obligatory to visit this seaside hamlet
where one of the world’s most iconic
lighthouses sits atop a slab of wave-blasted
rock (www.peggyscoveregion.com).
Follow the Good Cheer Trail. On the irst
winery, cidery, craft brewery and distillery
trail of its kind in Canada, you can sip
beverages from 35-plus local producers
(www.novascotiaculinarytrails.com).
Remember the Great War. WWI was raging
100 years ago, and the Halifax Citadel
National Historic Site commemorates it
through themed exhibits (www.parks
canada.gc.ca/halifaxcitadel).
SCENIC DRIVES
The Cabot Trail delivers one of the most
dramatic drives anywhere. The 300-km
(186-mi.) road runs straight through Cape
Breton Highlands National Park and, in
places, rises and falls like a roller coaster as
it follows the Atlantic coast.
Uncomplicated. Just another Nova Scotia day at the beach.
★ SAINT JOHN
★ PORTLAND
★ DIGBY
★ HALIFAX
★ YARMOUTH
*Breakfast daily, based on 2 people,
1 bedroom White Point Cottage. Plus tax.
90 minutes from Halifax,Yarmouth, Digby by car... and Toronto by air!
NS
123
Hugging the South Shore for 339 km (211
mi.), the Lighthouse Route boasts over
20 postcard-perfect beacons, including
PARK PICK
those at Peggy’s Cove and Cape Forchu.
ALEXANDER GRAHAM BELL
NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE
Charming towns like Mahone Bay and
Besotted by Cape Breton, Alexander
Lunenburg make ideal stopovers.
Graham Bell chose to spend his last
37 summers in Baddeck—arguably
The 291-km (181-mi.) Evangeline Trail—
the Island’s prettiest resort town.
less poetically known as Highway
Today it is home to an eponymous
101—connects Yarmouth and Mount
national historic site which spot-
Uniacke. Named for Longfellow’s tragic
lights the famed inventor’s achieve-
narrative, Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie,
ments. On display you’ll see personal
it showcases the scenery that inspired
photos and artefacts along with
his setting.
intriguing models of the telephone and
many other Bell creations, including
FAMILY FUN an early airplane, a manned kite and a
Animated by buskers, glassblowers and
full-scale hydrofoil boat. Special
tour-boat operators, Halifax’s working
activities, which run the gamut from
waterfront has proven kid appeal. Along
kid-friendly experiments and
it lies the Maritime Museum of the
kite-making sessions to detailed
Atlantic (maritimemuseum.novascotia.
behind-the-scenes tours, draw
ca), the Canadian Museum of
visitors of all ages (www.parkscanada.
Immigration at Pier 21 (www.pier21.ca),
gc.ca/alexandergrahambell).
plus the new, hands-on Discovery Centre
(www.thediscoverycentre.ca). When
hunger hits, refuel at the Halifax National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
Seaport Farmers’ Market (www.halifax 1-888-773-8888
farmersmarket.com).
5 nighte
cottagfor 2
package *
from
899
$
Plus tax
Mussel bakes. Surfing. Lobster rolls. Cottages. Add a guitar, a sunset, and s’mores at a beachside bonfire –
and you’ve got a good old-fashioned beach holiday! White Point has been the sweetheart of Nova Scotia’s South
Shore for 89 years. Maybe it’s our friendly “of course, dear” hospitality, or fresh, local seafood that has families,
couples, businesses, and clans coming back, year after year. We’re a perfect launching pad for day trips to UNESCO
site Lunenburg and Keji parks – but it’s amazing how many folks park the car and never leave the property!
Who can blame them with warm pools, golf, year-round activities, spa massages, local craft beers,
and a good book on a cottage porch? Come. Unplug, unwind, and uncomplicate life for a while.
1.800.565.5068 whitepoint.com
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124
HALIFAX AT NIGHT • DESTINATION HALIFAX/SCOTT MUNN
HALIFAX: WHERE OLD AND NEW INTERSECT
BY SUSAN MACCALLUM-WHITCOMB
Nova Scotia’s 268-year-old capital
somehow feels like both a vintage port town
and a vibrant 21st century urban centre.
Being by far the largest city in Atlantic
Canada, Halifax boasts the region’s densest
concentration of up-to-date architecture,
attractions and entertainment options yet
remains understandably proud of its
illustrious roots. The end result is a
compelling mix of the trendy and tradition-
al that appeals equally to vacationers and
the 418,000-odd folks who call this place
home (www.destinationhalifax.com).
A BLAST FROM THE PAST
Halifax’s greatest asset and signature sight
—its huge natural harbour—reminds visitors
that the air is tinged with salt and touched
by history. After all, it was this deep body of
water that irst drew British settlers in 1749,
and the deining role it has played over the
centuries is still obvious on the scenic
waterfront boardwalk. Just witness the
Historic Properties (www.historicproperties.
ca), a cluster of converted marine warehouses
dating from the late 18th and early 19th century.
Always evocative, they will appear even

more so July 29 to August 1 when dozens
of vintage vessels sail in for the 2017 Tall
Ships Regatta (www.mtcw.ca/tall-ships-
festival-2017).
If you want to dive into the harbour’s
history, the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic
sits on the boardwalk too (maritimemuseum.
novascotia.ca). Partly housed in a ship
chandlery, the oldest and largest facility of
its kind in Canada showcases our seafaring
legacy and contains particularly poignant
exhibits relating to the Titanic disaster—
recovery operations were based here when
the “unsinkable” sunk in 1912—and the
horriic Halifax Explosion, which claimed
nearly 2,000 lives in 1917. The museum also
has a gallery highlighting national naval
history, which is itting considering Halifax
has long been home port for the Royal
Canadian Navy’s Atlantic Fleet.
Strategically overlooking the harbour,
the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site is
another place where the past seems
palpable (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/halifax
citadel). On Citadel Hill, you can literally
see the passage of time in the Old Town
Clock, which has ticked away in its
octagonal tower for more than two
centuries; and hear it in the iring of the
Noon Gun, a daily ritual since 1857. You can
feel it, as well, inside the formidable
star-shaped fort. From May through
October, costumed interpreters recreate
garrison life within the ramparts, while
re-enactors wearing the kilted uniform of
the 78th Highland Regiment practice
synchronized drills on the broad parade
ground.
A BREATH OF FRESH AIR
As you would expect in a bustling urban
centre, there are more recent landmarks
that underscore Halifax’s cool contempo-
rary side. In fact, this city has been on an
architectural roll ever since the Seaport
Farmers’ Market opened on the waterfront
in 2010 (www.halifaxfarmersmarket.com).
A green grocery in more ways than one, the
airy ediice sports rooftop windmills that
are visually distinctive and energy eicient.
Nearby, the Discovery Centre’s new location
already has children cheering (www.the
discoverycentre.ca). Covering four loors, it
features ive galleries devoted to such topics
as water and light, plus a state-of-the-art
Innovation Lab and Immersive Dome
Theatre.
Towering cranes, moreover, mark the
NS
125
spot where a striking new downtown such as Alex Colville and Mary Pratt, along
convention centre is nearing completion with a strong assortment of Maritime folk
(www.halifaxconventioncentre.com). pieces, most notably the wee, whimsical,
Pointing toward the water like a ship’s prow, paint-slathered home of Maud Lewis, which
it is part of one of the largest development was reassembled on the premises. But
projects in civic history. However, even the curators keep things current by mounting
buzz surrounding that can’t dampen the dynamic shows that spotlight up-and-
enthusiasm locals and visitors alike feel for comers, and then shake things up further
the eye-popping Halifax Central Library, by hosting trendy events, like the after-
which was shortlisted for the “2015 World hours ArtParty which aims for cool rather
Building of the Year Award” and was awarded than quaint.
the Governor General’s Architecture Medal Even the venerable Alexander Keith’s
in 2016 (www.halifaxcentrallibrary.ca). Brewery, a local institution opened in 1820
Cantilevered glass boxes, a camera-ready by the eponymous former mayor, has
interior, and stellar views combine to make recently given tradition a modern twist
this building a must-see. (www.keiths.ca). Following a makeover last
Of course, it is not just up-to-the-minute year that allows for small-batch brewing, it
architecture that helps keep “Hali” on its 21st has launched a new tour experience and
century toes. Home to seven universities, introduced a series of craft beers—including
the city has a disproportionately large the seasonal Lunenburg Cofee Cacao
number of students who lend it a youthful Stout—that honour the brand’s long legacy
vitality; Dalhousie alone has about 18,500 while catering to today’s more adventurous
enrolled in 180-plus undergraduate, graduate tastes. In doing so, it could be said to distill
and professional programs. They energize the true essence of Halifax, for this too is a
the arts scene and ensure the club culture is place that combines the hip and historic in
always evolving. They also inluence menus, perfect proportion.
meaning eateries focused on classic Maritime
fare are ofset by an array of international
ones, including Highwayman—a Spanish-
inspired spot that made enRoute magazine’s
most recent list of Canada’s Top 10 new
restaurants (www.highwaymanhfx.com).
AND A BLENDING
OF THE TWO. . .
Happily, many Halifax attractions have
managed to create an au courant character
while simultaneously taking pride in their
pedigree. The top-rated Canadian Museum
of Immigration at Pier 21, which occupies
an erstwhile immigration shed where
around a million prospective citizens were
processed between 1928 and 1971, is a case
in point (www.pier21.ca). Known as Canada’s
answer to Ellis Island, it morphed into a
museum in 1999 and doubled its display
space in 2015. Now the re-imagined facility
uses cutting-edge digital technology,
multimedia experiences, and innovative
hands-on activities to illustrate the
immigrant experience in both a local and
national context.
A few blocks away, yet another converted
building—an 1868 Italianate beauty housing
the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia—yields similar
surprises (www.artgalleryofnovascotia.ca).
Its collection of some 17,000 works contains
paintings by venerated Canadian artists,
HALIFAX CITADEL • NS TOURISM/C. REARDON
 =PZP[PUN/HSPMH_[OPZZ\TTLY&
REST ASSURED YOU’LL
REST AFFORDABLY.
Accommodations
from
$49.95/night*
0UJS\KLZ^PÄWHYRPUNOV[IYLHRMHZ[HUK[H_LZ

Information/ Reservations:
www.smu.ca/conferences
1.888.347.5555
stay@smu.ca
 SLEEP,
DINE &
UNWIND
at the centre of
everything Halifax
JUNE 29-JULY 6, 2017
Come See SCOTIABANK CENTRE, HALIFAX has to ofer.

WHAT YOU’RE Stay Downtown Diferent.

MISSING TICKETS
1-902-451-1221
www.ticketatlantic.com
INFO
1-902-420-1114
www.nstattoo.ca
Call (888) 810-7288

AT L A N T I C A H OT E L H A L I FA X .C O M

To get the most out of your day in Halifax,

visit destinationhalifax.com

A world of stories
• National historic site
• Genealogical research
• Canada’s newest
national museum

Pier21.ca
PE
128

PRINCE
EDWARD
ISLAND
FRENCH RIVER • TOURISM PEI/YVONNE DUIVENVOORDEN

Not only is Canada’s smallest and greenest province known for

PATCHWORK its patchwork colours, gentle rolling landscapes and miles of

PERFECT BY SANDRA PHINNEY

pink sandy beaches, punctuated by iconic red clifs—it is also
the birthplace of Canada! It will come as no surprise then, that
when Canada takes the world stage celebrating the country’s
150th year of Confederation this year, Prince Edward Island will
occupy a front row seat and everyone is invited to tag along.
 PE
129

148,600
Charlottetown
www.gov.pe.ca
Charlottetown Airport,
located within city limits

historic vignettes presented in innovative
ways by the Confederation Players; and
Parks Canada’s stunning new 20-minute
ilm A Building of Destiny. But that’s a mere
taste of what’s in store.
A FOOD LOVER’S PARADISE
Hardly a month goes by without new
restaurants, food tours, and culinary
experiences sprouting on the scene. To wit:
HopYard in Charlottetown is one of the
newest kids on the block and features craft
brews from all over North America. With a
menu that changes every two weeks, you
are apt to ind imaginative dishes like Bahn
Mi Belly Tacos and Bulgogi Burgers. Bonus:
select a song from over 500 vinyl records
for the bartender to play (www.hopyard.ca).
There are several places to learn how to
cook like a pro, including The Table in New
London, a popular culinary studio with
hands-on cooking classes. Culinary Boot
Camps—including classes for kids—are a
big hit at Holland College, regarded by many
as Canada’s premier culinary institute.
Food is so important on the Island that
the entire month of September is devoted to
a food festival titled “Fall Flavours.” Without
a doubt, the Island has become an interna-
tional culinary mecca (www.falllavours.ca).
a kitchen, bathroom, BBQ and personal hot
tub; only 15 minutes from the Confederation
Bridge (www.treetophaven.ca).
As craft beer is made on-site, Moth Lane
Brewing in Ellerslie on the North Cape
Coastal Drive ofers a water view—and
oysters (www.peilavours.ca/culinary-trail/
entry/moth-lane-brewing).
Chef Duncan Smith and his wife Coreen
Pickering provide unique food items and
events under one roof at their gastro-pub,
Broadway 45, in Kensington (www.pei
lavours.ca/culinary-trail/entry/broadway-45).
LOT 45 Pub & Eatery in Souris, overlooking
the beautiful Colville Bay in the
Northumberland Strait, has created a lot
of excitement with homestyle meals in a
casual atmosphere (www.lot45.ca).

2017 ON THE ISLAND
Celebrations kick of with the City of
Charlottetown’s New Year’s outdoor party
and will continue throughout the following
12 months. Parks Canada will be ofering
free admission to all its parks and historic
sites for the entire year. During the summer,
the Confederation Centre of the Arts will
showcase “The Story of Confederation,”
including a variety of experiences depicting
the birth of the nation such as: “The
Confederation Chamber Experience” in the
centre’s upper foyer; guided tours and
SERENE TO SENSATIONAL
The beauty about P.E.I. is that you can be as
laid-back as you please or as busy as you
want. Looking for a secluded beach? Check.
Or maybe you’d like to chat with someone
who knows how to make cheese or choco-
lates. Check and check. If dancing the night
away or shopping till you drop are on your
wish list, no problem. Love theater and
musical productions? You’ll be spoiled for
choice. If you play your cards right, you can
even learn how to place great bets at the
raceway. It’s all here. Just ask the locals.
WHAT’S NEW?
Sleep in the trees at Treetop Haven in Mount
Tryon! Five tree pods are fully equipped with
QUILTING • TOURISM PEI/JOHN SYLVESTER
PE
130

SPECIAL EVENTS
JUNE
• Festival of Small Halls,
Province-wide
• TD PEI Jazz & Blues Festival,
Charlottetown
JUNE – JULY
• DiverseCity Festival, Island-wide
JUNE – SEPTEMBER
• Indian River Festival
• The Charlottetown Festival
• Victoria Playhouse Festival,
Victoria-by-the-Sea
JULY
• Cavendish Beach Music Festival
• “Mermaid Tears” Sea Glass
Festival, Souris
• Summerside Lobster Festival
JULY – AUGUST
• Highland Storm Festival,
Summerside
AUGUST
• Island Fringe Festival,
Charlottetown
• Old Home Week, Charlottetown
• Tyne Valley Oyster Festival
SEPTEMBER
• Beef n’ Blues, Summerside
• Fall Flavours, Province-wide
OCTOBER
• Farm Day in the City, Charlottetown
www.tourismpei.com/
pei-festivals-and-events
CITY LIGHTS
This year, The Charlottetown Festival
features the 53rd season of the Guinness
record-setting production of Anne of Green
Gables—The Musical as well as the sensational
musical, Million Dollar Quartet in the 1000-
seat theatre, and Bittergirl: the Musical in
the cabaret (www.confederationcentre.com).
Taste the Town is a leisurely three-hour
culinary walking tour of Charlottetown
establishments. Sample some of the Island’s
unique food and beverages along the way.
Throughout the capital city, you’ll also ind
a network of walking trails and waterside
boardwalks, craft and specialty shops.
Look for numerous miniature dream
catchers that have been integrated into one
gigantic dream catcher that is on display in
Charlottetown as part of the 150th anniversary.
CHARLOTTETOWN • TOURISM PEI/EMILY O`BRIEN
NEW GLASGOW • TOURISM PEI/PAUL BAGLOLE
Atlantic Canada’s longest-running
dinner theatre is hugely popular and
continues to combine good food with funky
performances at the Rodd Charlottetown
Hotel and the Brothers 2 Restaurant in
Summerside, where they originated
(www.roddvacations.com/feast ).
Although the city of Summerside is
smaller than Charlottetown, it also has a
bustling waterfront replete with indoor
and outdoor theatres, interesting boutiques
and places to eat. The musical production
Highland Storm continues to get excellent
reviews. Held at the College of Piping and
Celtic Performing Arts of Canada, the show
features Highland bagpiping, step-dancing,
iddling and snare drumming (www.
collegeofpiping.com ).
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Be prepared to be mesmerized by the rare
parabolic dune system in the Greenwich Dunes
area of PEI National Park, which also acts as
a stunning backdrop to an extensive trail
system that includes a loating boardwalk.
Remember that entrance to the park is free!
Cyclists can peddle from one end of the
Island to the other, and GranFondo PEI,
sponsored by Cycling PEI, is fast becoming
a premier event (www.granfondo-pei.ca ).
The P.E.I. portion of The Great Trail—
the Confederation Trail—stretches 444 km
(276 mi.) from Tignish in the west to Elmira
in the east, and connects to the Island’s two
entry points (www.tourismpei.com/
pei-cycling ).
Golf enthusiasts agree that P.E.I.’s
courses are spectacular and they are all
within an hour’s drive of each other (www.
golfpei.ca ). Aside from golf, the Island is
known for its authentic experiences—many
outdoors, including fun with falcons, going

clam digging or out on a lobster boat,
helping with farm chores, doing a GPS
adventure, or owning a racehorse for an
evening (www.experiencepei.ca ).
Throughout the Island there are endless
opportunities to get up close and personal
with nature. Kayaking, paddle boarding,
biking, and birdwatching—to name just a
few outdoor activities—are ofered in many
regions. No equipment? No problem; the
Island has several outitters (www.
tourismpei.com).
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
The Arts & Heritage Trail is an Island-wide
guide for authentic Prince Edward Island
cultural experiences with elements such as
museums and historic sites, performing
arts venues, festivals, special events,
theatre, galleries, craft shops and artisan
studios (www.artsandheritagepei.ca).
To get a taste of Acadian culture, visit
Abrams Village or Roma at Three Rivers for
festivals, exhibits and tours galore. A trip
to The Acadian Museum in Miscouche will
also introduce you to the fascinating
history of the French pioneers. Music and
dance have long been embedded in the
culture as evidenced at soirées and concerts
all around the Island.
QUICK FACT
IN 1864, P.E.I. HOSTED THE
CHARLOTTETOWN CONFERENCE, WHICH
LED TO THE CREATION OF CANADA IN 1867.
Be sure to visit the Lennox Island
Mi’kmaq Cultural Centre, as well as the
annual Abegweit Pow Wow in August, to
learn more about the Island’s Aboriginal
heritage.
Art in the Open highlights Charlottetown’s
visual arts scene and the Island’s diverse
cultural traditions. It also engages visitors
and the community in the creation and
appreciation of art in its various forms
(www.artintheopenpei.com ).
MUST SEE, MUST DO
The FireWorks Feast at The Inn at Bay
Fortune is a seven-course meal where
everything is cooked in a 7.5 m-long
(25-ft.) wood-burning, ire-breathing
stove that has an integrated smokehouse,
hearth, grill, plancha, rotisserie and
oven (www.innatbayfortune.com).
Jigs & Reels provides an authentic P.E.I.
experience with a world-class musician
(J.J. Chaisson—also known as “The Fiddling
Fisherman”) on his lobster boat. They’ve
even had weddings on board! (www.
iddlingisherman.com).
Deep Roots Distillery in Warren Grove is the
irst in the province to produce absinthe, a
potent green spirit made from carefully
selected herbs and produced in small
batches. It is shrouded with history and
mystery (www.deeprootsdistillery.com).
The entire world seems to know about
COWS ice cream. It’s available at several
locations in P.E.I., but the best place to visit
is COWS Creamery on the outskirts of
Charlottetown. Sign up for a tour which is
educational, fun and delicious (www.cows.ca).
SCENIC DRIVES
North Cape Coastal Drive is full of contrasts.
It’s quickly getting a reputation as the
Canadian Oyster Coast. There is everything
here from Mi’kmaq and Acadian communi-
ties to secluded beaches and towering wind
turbines (www.northcapedrive.com).
Central Coastal Drive combines Green
Gables Shore and Red Sands Shore. It is
home to Victoria-by-the-Sea—a ishing
village with great theatre, lots of charm and
a gourmet chocolatier called Island
Chocolates (www.centralcoastalpei.ca).
Points East Coastal Drive is more seclud-
ed—perhaps because there are 34 beaches,
24 harbours, 12 provincial parks and PEI
National Park, Greenwich. Step back in
time at Orwell Corner Historic Village
(www.pointseastcoastaldrive.com).
PE
131
DARNLEY SHORE • TOURISM PEI/HEATHER OGG
FAMILY FUN
Kids of all ages love making sandcastles, and
Maurice Bernard is the expert in residence at
Cavendish Beach. Ask the staf there when
Maurice is expected to be around or sign up
for Experience PEI’s “Sensational
Sandcastles.” Throughout the Island there
are 22 provincial parks, and many have
sections geared for kids. Other popular
places include Shining Waters Family Fun
Park and Sandspit Amusement Park (www.
tourismpei.com/pei-holiday-fun).
PARK PICK
ARDGOWAN NATIONAL
HISTORIC SITE,
CHARLOTTETOWN
Ardgowan is a gracious house from
the 19th century and was the home of
William Henry Pope, one of the Fathers
of Confederation. It is an example of
a picturesque, large rural cottage from
the Victorian era and was the scene
of lavish entertaining during the
historic Charlottetown Conference.
The staf is eager to tell stories about
this site and its inhabitants. The house
and grounds have been restored to
the period. Pope was an avid gardener
and the property relects his passion.
Visitors are encouraged to stroll around
the grounds and have a picnic. Parks
Canada administrative oices for all
the holdings on P.E.I. are located inside
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/ardgowan).
National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
1-888-773-8888
NL
132

530,100
St. John’s
www.newfoundlandlabrador.com
St. John’s International Airport,
8 km (5 mi.) from downtown

NEWFOUNDLAND
& LABRADOR

WESTERN BROOK POND FJORD, GROS MORNE NATIONAL PARK • NL TOURISM

Locals here are a famously gregarious lot who love

ANOINTED to have a good time, whether at a full-blown

BY UNESCO
BY SUSAN MACCALLUM-WHITCOMB
festival, a down-home scuf ’n scof (dinner dance)
or an impromptu gathering in a neighbour’s
kitchen. Nevertheless, when it came to celebrating
Confederation, they arrived at the party late.

That’s understandable when you
consider how remote Newfoundland &
Labrador must have seemed back in 1867.
Even today, despite ferries and planes, it
retains a faraway feel because the island of
Newfoundland (a.k.a. The Rock) sits alone
in the North Atlantic, while Labrador (The
Big Land) is tucked into northern Québec.
Bound by language, latitude and kindred
economies, the two only joined the country
VICTORIA ST., ST. JOHN’S • NL TOURISM/BARRETT AND MACKAY
as a single entity in 1949. But even though
it has been part of Canada for a compara-
tively short time, this place isn’t short on
attractions. Four UNESCO World Heritage
Sites attest to that.
CULTURALLY
SIGNIFICANT SITES
History lovers will appreciate the fact that
Canada’s youngest province is actually
very old. The UNESCO-designated Red Bay
Basque Whaling Station, for instance, is
proof that Labrador was already an
international industrial centre well before
our “motherland” made its irst attempts to
settle the New World further south. On-site,
visitors can ogle archaeological inds that
recall the mid-1500s and catch a ilm
recounting the heady days when whalers
from France and Spain busily manufac-
tured much-coveted oil from blubber here
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/redbay).
That seems like only yesterday
compared to Newfoundland’s millennium-
old sister site, L’Anse aux Meadows. Leif
Eriksson and his Viking crew arrived on the
spot in 1000 AD, then proceeded to build
shelters out of the earth and craft iron from
the bog-ore it yielded. Their settlement was
so shrouded in time that its very existence
was dismissed as a myth until 1960, when
Helge Ingstad and his archaeologist wife,
Anne, uncovered what was left of it. Today
it features atmospheric sod huts, faux
Vikings, and an artefact-illed visitor’s
centre (www.parkscanada.gc.ca/meadows ).
NL
133
NATURAL WONDERS
While exploring the province’s coastal
waters in summer, you might observe
whales like the ones that lured the Basque
isherman all those centuries ago, or see
super-sized icebergs that predate the
Vikings. The land itself, moreover, is
positively primeval. Just witness another
world heritage site, popular Gros Morne
National Park, where you can loat on a
freshwater jord sculpted by retreating
glaciers during the last ice age and admire
geological anomalies formed hundreds of
millions of years ago when tectonic
upheavals thrust the earth’s crust upward
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/grosmorne).
Tellingly, the extraordinary animal fossils
discovered at the province’s most recently
inscribed UNESCO Site, the 5.7-sq.-km (2.2-
sq.-mi.) Mistaken Point Ecological Reserve
dates back further still. With a discerning eye
and a knowledgeable guide, you can spot
20 diferent species embedded right on the
surface of the wave-washed rocks. Represent-
ing the oldest complex life forms ever found,
they are more than half a billion years old
(www.env.gov.nl.ca/env/parks/wer/r_mpe ).
Such ancient attractions—together with
others that are oicially protected, privately
operated or provided by Mother Nature—
are tangible reminders of Newfoundland &
Labrador’s timeless appeal.
WHAT’S NEW?
Fossil-rich Mistaken Point, on the south-
eastern tip of the Avalon Peninsula, became
NL
134

SPECIAL EVENTS
MAY
• Trails, Tales and Tunes Festival,
Norris Point
MAY – OCTOBER
• Seasons in the Bight Theatre
Festival, Trinity
JUNE
• The Iceberg Festival, St. Anthony
JUNE – SEPTEMBER
• Gros Morne Theatre Festival,
Cow Head
JULY
• Exploits Valley Salmon Festival,
Grand Falls-Windsor
• Fish, Fun & Folk Festival, Twillingate
• Miawpukek Pow Wow, Conne River
• North West River Beach Festival
AUGUST
• Brigus Blueberry Festival
• Festival of Flight, Gander
• Great Labrador Canoe Race,
Happy Valley-Goose Bay
• Muddy Hole Scuff ’n Scoff,
Musgrave Harbour
• Newfoundland & Labrador Folk
Festival, St. John’s
• Royal St. John’s Regatta
• The Gathering: Food + Music Fest,
Burlington
OCTOBER
• Fogo Island Partridgeberry
Harvest Festival
DECEMBER
• North America’s First New Year,
St. John’s
www.newfoundlandlabrador.com/
ThingsToDo/FestivalsEvents
Newfoundland & Labrador’s fourth UNESCO
World Heritage Site last year (whc.unesco.
org/en/list/1497).
Launched in 2016, the Sagas and Shadows
interpretive program at L’Anse aux
Meadows is a fun evening of ireside
storytelling that evokes the Viking era
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/meadows).
Flyers rejoice: the province’s largest airport
has gained both a Category III landing
system and a new hotel—the Holiday Inn
Express & Suites St. John’s Airport (www.
stjohnsairport.com).
Air Labrador now operates direct lights
year-round between Goose Bay and St.
John's, thereby providing an easy link
between The Rock and The Big Land
(www.westjet.com, www.airlabrador.com).
Curious epicures can savour traditional
lavours by sussing out native ingredients
and then preparing a feast over an open
ire on the new Foraging Tour (www.
codsounds.ca).
CITY LIGHTS
St. John’s—which has earned a spot on
National Geographic’s list of “Top 10
Oceanfront Cities”—is a compelling mix of
old and new. Designated heritage venues
and classic Crayola-coloured houses blend
with contemporary oice buildings in this
upbeat seaport. Boutiques, galleries and
restaurants, many of which give tradition a
modern twist, are plentiful here. So are
ICEBERG OFF QUIRPON ISLAND • NL TOURISM
bars: jumping George Street reputedly has
more per square metre than any street in
North America! The province’s largest
urban centre also boasts its broadest
selection of accommodations, including
business class and boutique hotels, historic
inns and quaint B&Bs. The newest
additions—the Holiday Inn Express &
Suites at the airport and The Luxus
downtown—amp up the levels of practi-
cality and pampering, respectively. (www.
stjohns.ca).
QUICK FACT
READY TO GET REEL? 60% OF NORTH
AMERICA’S ATLANTIC SALMON RIVERS ARE
IN NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR.
Corner Brook, the province’s second
city, makes a convenient base for sports
and nature-loving day trippers. Sitting in the
shadow of the Blow Me Down Mountains, it
puts visitors within easy reach of both
Marble Mountain and Humber Valley. An
average annual 5-m (16-ft.) snowfall draws
an international contingent of downhill
and cross-country skiers to the former each
winter, while the latter is a favourite locale
for anglers and golfers. Sailing or kayaking
on the boater-friendly Bay of Islands is a
memorable summertime alternative (www.
cornerbrook.com).
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
This province boasts a 17,542-km (10,900-
mi.) coast and land that encompasses
everything from daunting mountains and
dense boreal forests to starkly beautiful
barrens. So, naturally, it has much in store.
For starters, it is home to four national
parks, including Mealy Mountains—the
country’s newest and Atlantic Canada’s
largest—which will welcome its irst guests
in a few years. The remaining three—Gros
Morne in western Newfoundland, Terra
Nova in eastern Newfoundland and the
Torngat Mountains on Labrador’s northern-
most tip—are all stand-outs in their own
right. Collectively, they ofer activities
ranging from snowshoeing and snowmo-
biling to hiking, biking and botanical treks,
along with kids’ programs and campire
events for all ages. These parks, however,
don’t hold a monopoly on outdoor fun.
Take the Humber River area: known
primarily as a skiing and snowboarding
destination, it promises warm-weather
NL
136
pursuits like hiking, rappelling, goling and
caving too. On-the-water options in the
province include world-class salmon
ishing, kayaking and whitewater rafting.
Increasingly, scuba divers and snorkellers
are donning dry suits for a peek at what lies
beneath as well. If you would rather see the
sights from a boat deck, whale and
birdwatching trips are widely available, but
that’s just the tip of the proverbial iceberg.
June through early July, berg chasing is so
popular that the tourism board maintains a
website to track the movement of these
mountains of ice (www.iceberginder.com ).
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
The past is proudly displayed at dozens of
historic attractions and more than 100
museums. Some are modest operations;
others, such as The Rooms—St. John’s
provincial museum, gallery and archives
complex—are state-of-the-art. Yet the true
beauty of Newfoundland & Labrador’s strong
culture is evident everywhere. History and
folklore, for instance, are passed on orally
with the number of tales being matched
only by the number of enthusiastic tellers.
Music is handed down as well, so old tunes
from Europe sound as fresh as they did
when they were irst carried across the
Atlantic, especially when performed by
popular bands like The Irish Descendants.
Traditional inluences are equally apparent
in the visual arts because the motifs that
knitters, quilters and other craftspeople
used for generations have been adapted by
today’s cutting-edge artisans. The provincial
Craft Council website shows you where to
buy the best (www.craftcouncil.nl.ca).
MUST SEE, MUST DO
Start your day by watching the sunrise at
the Cape Spear Lighthouse. Dawn breaks at
this easternmost point before anywhere
else on the continent (www.parkscanada.
gc.ca/capespear).
Get a bird’s-eye view of gannets at Cape St.
Mary’s Ecological Reserve or pretty Atlantic
puins at Witless Bay Ecological Reserve
(www.env.gov.nl.ca/env/parks/wer/index.
html).
Twillingate is the place for vacationers
wanting to go with the loe. This old-school
outport on Notre Dame Bay calls itself
“The Iceberg Capital of the World” (www.
twillingatetourism.ca).
TORNGAT MOUNTAINS, LABRADOR • NL TOURISM/BARRETT AND MACKAY
At the Johnson GEO CENTRE in St. John’s,
visitors can go below ground to explore the
earth’s interior and its origins. Tours, talks
and innovative exhibits make learning fun
(www.geocentre.ca).
A series of architecturally advanced studios
turned tiny Fogo Island into a big art-and-
design destination. Now a stunning inn
provides ive-star lodgings (www.townof
fogoisland.ca).
Norstead, a recreated Viking village near
L’Anse aux Meadows, features costumed
interpreters, authentic-looking structures,
and a full-scale replica of a period ship
(www.norstead.com).
SCENIC DRIVES
Moose alert! Newfoundland’s 120,000 moose
can be a major hazard for motorists. So be
especially careful when driving highways at
dusk and dawn.
The Viking Trail, 489 km (304 mi.) on
Newfoundland’s west coast, paves the way
to a pair of world heritage sites—L’Anse aux
Meadows and Gros Morne National
Park—providing a crash course in history
en route.
The 230-km (143-mi.) Discovery Trail winds
along Newfoundland’s east coast. The
ample cod stocks John Cabot observed in
1497 have been depleted, yet ishing
villages, fertile farmlands and tall timber
stands remain.
The Kittiwake Coast—Road to the Isles Route,
172 km (107 mi.) in the province’s Central
Region, stretches from Notre Dame Provincial
Park to Notre Dame Bay where icebergs,
whales and coastal hiking trails await.
FAMILY FUN
If you dream of having your kids help with
the housework, sign up for “Yale of
Chores,” a family-oriented add-on program
at Gros Morne National Park. Traditional
duties your ofspring might be invited to do
include gathering irewood, hanging
laundry, or even gutting ish (www.
parkscanada.gc.ca/grosmorne).
PARK PICK
GROS MORNE NATIONAL PARK
There is a reason why this UNESCO-
designated National Park outside
Corner Brook is one of Newfoundland
& Labrador’s signature sites. The
place rocks . . . literally. Brush up on
its natural history at the Discovery
Centre in Woody Point; then explore
the Tablelands—a massive lat-topped
formation created when the North
American and African continental
plates collided—either independently
or on a guided excursion. Cap your
visit by hiking the handsome board-
walk to Western Brook Pond and
boarding a tour boat for an up-close
look at spectacular jord-like scenery
dating from the Pleistocene period.
A range of engaging interpretive
programs is also available (www.
parkscanada.gc.ca/grosmorne).
National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
1-888-773-8888

TABLELANDS, GROS MORNE NATIONAL PARK • NL TOURISM/BARRETT AND MACKAY
FOUR WAYS TO ENJOY
WESTERN NEWFOUNDLAND
BY SUSAN MACCALLUM-WHITCOMB
Those looking for urban pleasures will
feel no big city buzz in Western Newfoundland.
Tracing the shoreline for 683 km (424 mi.),
this edge of the island doesn’t boast glitzy
mega-malls or a late-night club scene and
skyscrapers here are noticeably absent.
But a pair of signature attractions—one
a superlative national park, the other a
haunting heritage site—plus ample oppor-
tunities for outdoor adventures and cultural
interactions—make it a natural choice for
many diferent types of vacationers (www.
newfoundlandlabrador.com/western ).
LANDSCAPE LOVERS
Although the province is famous for
camera-ready vistas, those in gorgeous
Gros Morne National Park, roughly half-
way up the coast, are truly unparalleled
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/grosmorne). More
than a year-round playground for nature
lovers, this ruggedly beautiful 1,805-sq.-km
(697-sq.-mi.) locale is a natural wonder
almost 500 million years in the making. The
Tablelands, which helped earn Gros Morne a
UNESCO World Heritage Site designation in
1987, is one case in point. Created eons ago
by a massive tectonic upheaval, the
red-hued, lat-topped mountain is always
ready for its close-up.
The scenery of Western Brook Pond—a
freshwater jord formed during the last ice
age—is equally compelling. Most people are
content to view its glacier-carved granite
walls and dramatic 610-m (2,000-ft.)
waterfalls from the photogenic boardwalk or
the deck of a tour boat; however, energetic
types can launch out from here on the Long
NL
137
Range Traverse, a hiking route which ranks
among the world’s most memorable.
HISTORY HOUNDS
Back in 1497, when John Cabot dubbed the
island Terra Nova (or “New Land”), this
region already had a long history. The
Viking Trail (www.vikingtrail.org), which
starts just below Gros Morne and extends
the length of the Great Northern Peninsula
before crossing into Labrador, lets you
experience life in the past lane. Remains of
three ancient Aboriginal cultures can be
seen at Port au Choix National Historic Site
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/portauchoix),
while evidence of the irst Europeans to
arrive in the New World lies further north at
L’Anse aux Meadows (www.parkscanada.gc.
ca/meadows).
NL
138

Contrary to what Columbus fans
profess, it was actually Leif Eriksson who
“discovered” North America in 1000 AD,
and the Viking settlement he erected here
has itself been recognized by UNESCO.
Open from late May through early October,
the site includes a complex of sod huts and
a visitor’s centre showcasing artefacts used
a millennium ago. For an entertaining
variation on the theme, continue on to
nearby Norstead, a meticulously recreated
port of trade populated by faux Norse folk
(www.norstead.com).
OUDOOR ADVENTURERS
If it’s fresh air fun you’re after, head for the
area around Newfoundland & Labrador’s
second largest city, Corner Brook (www.
cornerbrook.com). The Bay of Islands, for
starters, is a magnet for whale watchers and
boaters. Prefer ishing? Cod, squid, and
more can also be caught here. Of course,
there aren’t just lots of ish in the sea—they
ill other bodies of water, too. In fact, this
province is home to most of North
America’s Atlantic salmon rivers, a
disproportionate number of which are right
here. The Humber, which sees tens of
thousands of ish swim through during its
annual run, is a particular hot spot for
trophy-sized salmon.
Back on dry land, other warm-weather
activities in the Corner Brook vicinity include
hiking, mountain biking, and goling at
Humber Valley Resort’s highly-regarded
18-hole championship golf course (www.
humbervalley.com). In winter, popular
Marble Mountain promises skiing, snow-
boarding, snowmobiling, snowshoeing,
dogsledding, and even zip-lining (www.
skimarble.com; www.marbleziptours.com).
LOCAL COLOUR
CONNOISSEURS
Travellers increasingly crave cultural
experiences these days, and Western
Newfoundland delivers in this regard as
well. The simple fact that folks around here
are so friendly means opportunities for
authentic interaction are plentiful. To meet
locals en masse, try attending one of the
region’s annual events. Not surprisingly,
many of them focus on food. The Exploits
Valley Salmon Festival, the Cow Head
Lobster Festival and the Deer Lake Strawberry
Festival are, for instance, all peak-season
favourites. But others, like the Iceberg
Festival held each June in St. Anthony,
prove that residents can always ind a
reason to celebrate.
Artsy alternatives, including the Gros
Morne Theatre Festival which breathes new
life into vintage songs and stories through
its summer repertory lineup, ofers a
diferent way for you to immerse in local
culture (www.theatrenewfoundland.com/
gmtf.html). The same is true for the engaging
interpretative programs sponsored by the
park itself, several of which explore traditional
outport life in a fun and informative way.
Such a rich range of attractions and
activities make Western Newfoundland
almost impossible to resist.
GETTING HERE
Board a Marine Atlantic ferry (www.marine
atlantic.ca) from North Sydney, Nova Scotia,
to Port aux Basques at the island’s south-
west tip (www.portauxbasques.ca). This
historic town, founded by 16th century
Basque ishermen, is a ine place to stop
before or after the six-hour crossing. If
you’re arriving via Québec or Labrador, take
the Blanc Sablon to St. Barbe or Corner
Brook ferry instead (www.tw.gov.nl.ca/
ferryservices/index.html). If you’d rather ly,
land at Deer Lake Regional Airport (www.
deerlakeairport.com). The titular town
(www.town.deerlake.nf.ca), 35 minutes
north of Corner Brook and 35 minutes south
of Gros Morne National Park, marks the
start of the Viking Trail, otherwise known
as Route 430.

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 Reveal your

in Gros Morne

YOUR ROAD TO AMAZING MEMORIES

IN NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR!
Explore our scenic beauty with whales and icebergs;
Experience our history and culture with traditional
music, dance and storytelling; Discover a friendly
people and place where time seems to stand still.
Find your path on your journey to the Viking Trail!

Photo by Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism

Fisherman’s Landing Inn Gros Morne Cabins Neddies Harbour Inn
Rocky Harbour (866) 458-2711 Rocky Harbour (888) 603-2020 Norris Point (877) 458-2929
fishermanslandinginn.com grosmornecabins.com theinn.ca
Ocean View Hotel Shallow Bay Motel & Cabins Sugar Hill Inn
Rocky Harbour (800) 563-9887 Cow Head (800) 563-1946 Norris Point (888) 299-2147
theoceanview.ca shallowbaymotel.com sugarhillinn.nf.ca
Plan your trip by visiting vikingtrail.org
SOURCE PHOTOS BY HANS VAN KLINKEN

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YT
140

37,500
Whitehorse
www.travelyukon.com
Erik Nielsen Whitehorse
International Airport,
8 km (5 mi.) from downtown

YUKON
TOMBSTONE TERRITORIAL PARK • TOURISM YT/FRITZ MUELLER

Talk about a winning combination. Take some of

GOING TO Canada’s most colourful history—the Klondike Gold

THE MOST Rush, for starters—and mix in abundant recreational

and cultural opportunities, outstanding wildlife and
UNEXPECTED pure, scenic beauty. It’s an irresistible recipe for an
authentic and adventurous style of living. And,
PLACES BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
happily, the people of the Yukon make wonderful
hosts, welcoming visitors to share their unique
lifestyle in the land “north of 60.”
 YT
141

A FULL MENU OF
POSSIBILITIES
Winter and summer, the Yukon gleams
with sparkling lakes, rugged mountains
(Mount Logan in Yukon is Canada’s highest
peak) and emerald green forests. A little
winter weather doesn’t slow down a Yukoner
—join them in snowmobiling, ice ishing,
dogsledding and sitting out on a pitch-
black night to watch the “silver dance of
the mystic Northern Lights,” as described
by poet Robert Service. When the weather
warms, there’s canoeing, kayaking and
rafting on lakes and rivers; and hiking,
biking, horseback riding, camping and DIAMOND TOOTH GERTIES • TOURISM YT
wildlife viewing on dry land. Meet the people
—you’ll ind unassuming, unspoiled and linking Dawson Creek, B.C. to Delta Junction celebrate it with a host of outdoor activities,
unhurried individuals and communities. in Alaska. The highway passes through the eccentric festivals, world-class races and
western reaches of the Yukon, a vital link competitions. Bundle up and jump in for
REFUEL YOUR WANDERLUST to the smaller areas of Watson Lake, Teslin, sled dog mushing experiences, snow sculp-
A summertime road trip through the Yukon Whitehorse, Haines Junction and Beaver ture competitions, snowshoeing, cross-
is high on many bucket lists. This year, a Creek. On two wheels or four, it’s a road country skiing and snowmobiling. After a
major anniversary is being celebrated as trip made in heaven! long day, dip into thermal hot springs.
2017 marks the 75th anniversary of the In the warmer months, the “Land of the
construction of the Alaska Highway. In THE GREAT YUKON Midnight Sun” means light-illed days and
1942, a workforce of thousands of U.S. GETAWAY—YEAR-ROUND nights of summer, perfect for enjoying the
soldiers and Canadian and U.S. civilians Yukoners know how to embrace the outdoors. The June solstice sun doesn’t set
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YT
142
SPECIAL EVENTS
FEBRUARY
• Available Light Film Festival,
Whitehorse
• Yukon Arctic Ultra, Whitehorse
• Yukon Quest International Sled Dog
Race, Whitehorse to Fairbanks, Alaska
• Yukon Sourdough Rendezvous
Festival, Whitehorse
MARCH
• Percy DeWolfe Memorial Mail Race,
Dawson City
• Thaw-Di-Gras Spring Carnival,
Dawson City
• Trek Over the Top, Dawson City
APRIL
• DC International Short Film
Festival, Dawson City
MAY
• Dawson City International Gold Show
JUNE
• Da KŞ Nän Ts’étthèt Dance
Festival, Haines Junction
• Dustball Invitational Slo-Pitch
Tournament, Whitehorse
• Kluane Chilkat International Bike
Relay, Haines Junction
• Kluane Mountain Bluegrass
Festival, Haines Junction
• National Aboriginal Day,
Territory-wide
JUNE – JULY
• Adäka Cultural Festival, Whitehorse
• Yukon River Quest Canoe and Kayak
Race, Whitehorse to Dawson City
JULY
• Dawson City Music Festival
• Hà Kus Teyea Celebration, Teslin
• Yukon Gold Panning Championships,
Dawson City
AUGUST
• Discovery Days Festival, Dawson City
• Yukon Riverside Arts Festival,
Dawson City
SEPTEMBER
• Klondike Trail of ’98 International
Road Relay, Skagway, Alaska to
Whitehorse
www.travelyukon.com/explore/events
or hiking into the wee hours are both
possible. In Whitehorse, the June sun
brings an average of 269 hours of sunshine.
There are all sorts of ways to connect—
across the territory you’ll ind both
accessible experiences and of the beaten
path escapes.
S.S. KLONDIKE NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE • PARKS CANADA/FRITZ MUELLER
HEAD OUTDOORS—THE
GRAPHICS ARE AMAZING!
The Yukon can lay claim to true wilderness
like nowhere else south of the 60th parallel.
More than 80 percent of the territory is still
pristine forests, tundra and even desert.
Throughout 2017, Canada’s 150th anniversa-
ry celebrations include free admission to
all Parks Canada sites, including the
protected lands in vast, uninhabited parks
like Kluane, Ivvavik and Tombstone.
The chance of encountering Yukon
wildlife is excellent. Bears and mountain
sheep create “wildlife jams” as passersby
spot them beside the roadways; caribou,
moose and grizzly bears are found across
the territory.
The wilderness knocks at the back
doors of the Yukon’s few urban areas—the
city of Whitehorse and the historic town
of Dawson City. Dense greenery edges
ribbons of highway and, in summer,
brilliant magenta ireweed, the Yukon’s
territorial lower, lines many roadsides.
Mountains, lakes, rivers and some of the
country’s most majestic glaciers provide a
photographer’s dream.
CULTURAL FOOTPRINTS
The territory’s dynamic 1890s Klondike
Gold Rush history is still on display.
Museums, roadside stops and the entire
downtown of Dawson City are the lessons
of a time when desperate stampeders
surmounted unimaginable hardships to
reach stream beds they believed were thick
with gold nuggets. Few found these riches
and many lost their lives or their savings in
the quest for instant wealth. Gold is still a
vibrant part of the Yukon economy, but
modern machinery has replaced the gold
pan, although visitors can still pan for gold
in the creeksides.
For the Klondike gold seekers, the Yukon’s
many waterways were the highways into
the north. Today’s paddlers trace many of
the same water-borne routes—this time in
search of canoeing and kayaking adven-
tures on the territory’s many lakes and 70
wilderness rivers. In winter, the frozen
rivers are the routes of world-class sled dog
endurance races; some commemorate the
wintertime “highway of the north” along
the frozen Yukon River, the traditional
route to the gold ields of the Klondike.
The people long connected to the land
are the members of the First Nations. Across
the Yukon, visitors can observe or immerse
themselves in authentic experiences like
drum making, herbal nature hikes, circle
healing and sweat lodge ceremonies.
WHAT’S NEW?
Inconnu Lodge, one of the Yukon¹s iconic
ishing lodges, has added personalized,
small-group, all-inclusive ive and
seven-day packages to introduce visitors
to the northern lights, while enjoying
ishing, glacier-viewing and excellent
opportunities to observe local wildlife
(www.inconnulodge.com).
Chilkoot Trail Village is one of Parks Canada’s
new Northern Iconic Experiences. Accom-
modation is in Gold Rush-themed canvas
wall tents with a full range of comforts and
amenities. Packages include historical
walking tours on sections of the Chilkoot
Trail, an historic trail followed by the gold
seekers (www.chilkootvillage.com).
 YT
143

To mark Canada’s 150th anniversary, Music
Yukon is spearheading “Our North: a
Pan-Territorial Celebration,” bringing
together performers and artists to celebrate
the art of Canada’s North and share it with
all Canadians (www.musicyukon.com).
CITY LIGHTS
Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon,
gained its name from the roiling White
Horse Rapids on the Yukon River.
Whitehorse is the urban heart of the
territory, with historic and heritage sites,
a vibrant arts locale, and a wide range of
dining and accommodation choices
(www.travelyukon.com).
Quirky and historic Dawson City
preserves its storied Gold Rush past with
false-fronted buildings, rustic log cabins,
can-can dancing and a frontier energy.
Downtown Dawson is designated a national
historic site (www.dawsoncity.ca ).
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
In the Yukon’s unspoiled wilderness,
outdoor enthusiasts can explore on foot or
by mountain bike, or retrace the prospec-
tors’ footsteps by hiking the challenging
Chilkoot Trail. Angle for trophy ish in a
northern glacier-fed lake or climb a
mountain. Go heli-hiking or heli-skiing,
kayaking, canoeing or rafting part of the
Yukon River—Canada’s second longest.
QUICK FACT
MOOSE OUTNUMBER YUKONERS 2:1 AND
CARIBOU OUTNUMBER YUKONERS 6:1.
The Yukon, home to some of the most
renowned rivers in Canada, is a paddler’s
dreamscape. In addition to the Yukon and
Klondike rivers, the territory has four
Canadian Heritage Rivers: the Alsek, Thirty
Mile, Tatshenshini and Bonnet Plume.
These ribbons of water ofer challenging
whitewater to lat waters, with outstanding
opportunities to observe wildlife.
Anglers come from around the world
to experience some of Canada’s best ishing
for lake trout, northern pike, Arctic
grayling, rainbow trout and salmon in
the Yukon’s pristine lakes and rivers.
Experienced guides can create a day of
superb ishing in remote waters where
you can really get away from it all.
Spectators cheer on mushers in the
famous 1,609-km (1,000-mi.) Yukon Quest
International Sled Dog Race (www.
yukonquest.com ). Visitors can mush their
own team on one-hour to multi-day dog-
sledding adventures just minutes from
Whitehorse (www.skyhighwilderness.com ).
Yukon Wild, a group of professional
adventure travel companies, holds
year-round trips with experienced local
guides and equipment. Activities range
from ishing, hiking, canoeing, mountain
biking, horseback riding or rafting, to
dogsledding, snowshoeing, skiing and
snowmobiling (www.yukonwild.com).
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
When the news of “Gold!” echoed from the
Klondike, tens of thousands of gold seekers
set of, lured by dreams of riches. The histo-
ry of the Gold Rush is still at the hub of
many Yukon experiences.
The Dawson City Museum is the perfect
spot to learn about the town at the heart of
the Gold Rush (www.dawsonmuseum.ca ).

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YT
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MONTANA MOUNTAIN, NEAR CARCROSS • TOURISM YT/DEREK CROWE
Watch the award-winning ilm, City of Gold,
narrated by Yukon-native Pierre Berton.
Dawson City likes to show of a rich
literary heritage. Along Writers’ Block
(Eighth Street), stop at the Robert Service
Cabin where visitors are treated to readings
of his poems and some insights into the
more idiosyncratic aspects of the author’s
personality. Next door is the log cabin that
was once home to storyteller Jack London,
author of Yukon classics such as White Fang
and Call of the Wild (www.dawsoncity.ca).
At the MacBride Museum of Yukon
History in Whitehorse, pretend you’re a
stampeder panning on the Klondike creeks
or peer into prospector Sam McGee’s cabin
(www.macbridemuseum.com ).
Many communities have First Nations
cultural centres—Kwanlin Dün Cultural
Centre in Whitehorse, Dänojà Zho Cultural
Centre in Dawson City and Big Jonathan
House at Pelly Crossing are just a few spots
where visitors can learn about the tradi-
tions, crafts and history of the First Nations.
The Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre
transports visitors to the unforgiving
prehistoric landscape of Beringia (the dry,
unglaciated land bridge that once linked
Alaska and Siberia). Multimedia displays
and dioramas tell the story of a time when
woolly mammoths and gigantic mastodons
roamed the region (www.beringia.com ).
Every summer musicians and music
lovers come to the Yukon for the Dawson
City Music Festival, a world-class showcase
of North American talent (www.dcmf.com ).
MUST SEE, MUST DO
Rent an RV and take the ultimate road trip
along iconic northern roadways like the
Dempster Highway across the Arctic Circle
or the winding Silver Trail to historic
frontier mining towns.
Dawson City, the “heart of the Klondike
Gold Rush,” bustles with the history of a
wild era when prospectors rushed to follow
dreams of riches.
At Montana Mountain in Carcross, about 40
km (25 mi.) of trail have been built for the
enjoyment of hikers, mountain bikers,
snowshoers and skiers.
Winter or summer, take a sightseeing light by
small plane or helicopter over the spectacular
Kluane National Park Iceield Ranges, one of
the world’s largest non-polar iceields (www.
kluaneglacierairtours.com).
Enjoy the magical aurora borealis—or
northern lights—as brilliant colours
shimmer across dark winter skies on a
silent Yukon night (www.northernlights
centre.ca; www.northerntales.ca).
Try a traditional healing camp, First Nations
adventure tour or cultural experience (www.
shakattunadventures.com).
SCENIC DRIVES
The Golden Circle Route’s 600-km (373-mi.)
begins in Whitehorse and circles to include
Skagway, Alaska and Kluane National Park,
showcasing spectacular alpine scenery.
The secluded Top of the World Highway,
open seasonally only, hugs the top of
mountains for outstanding scenery. At the
east end of the unpaved drive, hop on the
free car ferry and cross the Yukon River to
Dawson City. Bring your passport—the
crossing from the Yukon to Alaska is the
most northern international border
crossing in all of North America.
The breathtaking and bumpy Dempster
Highway, a wilderness route, is best
travelled in summertime. The 736-km
(457-mi.) gravel roadway is Canada’s only
all-weather road across the Arctic Circle.
The paved Alaska Highway—celebrating its
75th anniversary this year—is one of the
continent’s great wilderness drives. It winds
through eight communities, Kluane National
Park and major attractions including the
Sign Post Forest, the Northern Lights Centre
and the Teslin Tlingit Heritage Centre.
FAMILY FUN
All kids brighten up at the chance to spy
some wildlife. The Yukon Wildlife Preserve
features 13 species of northern Canadian
mammals in their natural environment—
including woodland caribou, lynx, moose,
mountain goats, wood bison and foxes.
Open year-round, the preserve can be
explored on self-guided walking/biking/
skiing trails or by interpretive bus tour
(www.yukonwildlife.ca).
PARK PICK
S.S. KLONDIKE NATIONAL
HISTORIC SITE
In the early 20th century, before roads
opened up the north, riverboats and
rails linked the Yukon to the rest of
the country. The S.S. Klondike was the
last Yukon River sternwheeler in active
service and was designated a national
historic site to commemorate the era
of steam-powered riverboat transpor-
tation in the north. It was the largest
in a leet of wood-ired sternwheelers
that carried passengers and cargo along
the Yukon River between Whitehorse
and Dawson City. The Klondike now
sits on dry land in Whitehorse,
restored and refurbished to her 1937-40
appearance, and is open for self-
guided tours as well as guided tours
with knowledgeable tour operators
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/ssklondike).
National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
1-888-773-8888

WHITEHORSE • CTC/NORTHERN TALES TRAVEL SERVICES
WHITEHORSE: IT’S BIGGER
THAN THE WILDERNESS
BY JOSEPHINE MATYAS
They’ve nicknamed Whitehorse the
“Wilderness City”—and while it’s surround-
ed by some of the country’s most pristine
backcountry, there is so much more that
draws visitors.
As the Yukon’s largest and most vibrant
settlement, Whitehorse is a place with deep
historic roots and a timeless First Nations
heritage, as well as almost unlimited ways
to explore and enjoy the outdoors. It is this
full menu of authentic experiences that
helps Whitehorse and its surrounding
communities stand apart. This is a gateway
to Canada’s True North—where you can
YT
145
mush a team of sled dogs through a silent
forest, pull a champion-sized ish from a
sparkling lake, learn the traditional First
Nations ways, or dabble in the history of the
Klondike Gold Rush.
For much of its history, Whitehorse has
been the transportation and commercial
YT
146
heart of the region, getting its name from
the churning white waters of the Yukon
River that resemble the lowing manes of
horses. It’s a walkable city, easily navigated
in summertime aboard the Waterfront
Trolley—the bright-yellow restored 1925
vintage trolley that travels along the city’s
riverfront. For walkers, the scenic ive-km,
paved, non-motorized Millennium Trail
loops along both sides of the Yukon River.
As the hub of the territory, Whitehorse
connected the outpost communities. In
summer, when the river was navigable,
fortune seekers and daring entrepreneurs of
the Gold Rush loated their boats downriver
toward the goldields. Through the long
winter months, sled dog teams moved mail
and supplies along the frozen river and
lakes. The year 2017 marks the 75th anniver-
sary of the famed Alaska Highway and there
is no better time to use Whitehorse as a
base to explore the many noteworthy sights
along the historic roadway.
Whitehorse is deinitely bigger than its
untouched wilderness. It is about people,
communication, culture and history too.
AN ACTIVE NATURE GETAWAY
There’s no denying that people are drawn to
Whitehorse for the outdoors. The city is a
magnet for experienced guides who ofer a
full slate of activities for every season,
KLUANE NATIONAL PARK AND RESERVE • PARKS CANADA/FRITZ MUELLER
whether inding a mountain biking trail
under the midnight sun, canoeing a heritage
river, dogsledding, snowshoeing or cross-
country skiing through snowy woodlands.
Yukon Wild is a one-stop collective of
licenced adventure experts who know how
to experience the famed Canadian back-
country in a safe and eco-friendly manner
(www.yukonwild.com). Away from the glare
of city lights, a stay in a private cabin at
Sundog Retreat opens the door to spectacular
views of the swirling aurora borealis or
spotting some of the Yukon’s famed wildlife
(www.sundogretreat.com). Black Feather
outitter caters to both the novice and
seasoned outdoors traveller, with hiking,
skiing, canoeing and kayaking expeditions
that show of the best of the northern
wilderness. To celebrate Canada’s 150th, they
have designed a menu of 13 True Canada
Experiences (www.blackfeather.com). A
short drive from downtown, at Muktuk
Adventures, dozens of Alaskan huskies love
to run, taking guests on guided sled dog
outings, year-round (www.muktuk.com). In
winter months, the specialists at Up North
Adventures arrange dog mushing, snow-
shoeing, ice ishing and snowmobiling tours
and shuttle visitors to prime viewing spots
to watch the colours of the aurora borealis
unfold across the northern sky (www.
upnorthadventures). Visitors can custom
design a Yukon Essentials package with
Nature Tours of Yukon, including small
group photography outings (www.nature
toursyukon.com).
In February, Whitehorse is energized by
the Yukon Quest sled dog race, when some
of the world’s best mushers race their teams
along a 1,600-km (1,000-mi.) trail, follow-
ing the historical winter routes that once
connected the Klondike goldields and the
Alaskan interior (www.yukonquest.com).
There is guaranteed wildlife spotting at
the 283-ha (700-acre) Yukon Wildlife Preserve
by interpretive bus tour, self-guided walking
tour or on cross-country skis along groomed
trails to see woodland caribou, lynx, Rocky
Mountain elk, mountain goats and sheep,
moose, mule deer, muskox, wood bison and
foxes in their natural environment (www.
yukonwildlife.ca).
FIRST NATIONS CELEBRATE
AND SHARE THEIR STORIES
The traditions of drumming, singing,
dancing and feasting are powerful ways to
learn about the rich heritage and culture of
the Yukon’s 14 First Nations communities.
Whitehorse lies within the traditional
territory of the Kwanlin Dün First Nation,
whose people incorporate the lifestyles,
history and traditions of several diferent
tribes of the Yukon and northern British
Columbia. Just south of the city, Miles
Canyon (Kwanlin) is the namesake of the
Kwanlin Dün First Nation, who traditionally
ished and hunted above the canyon. In
town, the walls and rooms of the Kwanlin
Dün Cultural Centre enclose a space
designed for the celebration of Yukon First
Nations culture, its location symbolizing a
return to the traditional riverside roots. The
centre’s multimedia exhibits, workshops
and guided tours explain the history,
challenges and arts of the First Nations
people in original and authentic ways,
educating guests while extending a warm
welcome (www.kdcc.ca).
In early July, the centre is the site for the
annual Adäka Cultural Festival, featuring a
mixture of traditional and contemporary
art, music, dance and storytelling to
celebrate the Yukon’s diverse and distinc-
tive First Nations (www.adakafestival.ca).
Not far from Whitehorse, traditional art,
clan songs and dances can be experienced
at the Carcross/Tagish First Nation carving
shed located in the small hamlet of Carcross.

STEEPED IN CULTURE
AND HISTORY
Nothing shaped the history of Whitehorse
like the Klondike Gold Rush of the late 1800s,
when an estimated 100,000 prospectors
crossed through town before beginning
their trek north to Dawson City, braving the
wilderness of an unknown land in their
quest for riches. They were a quirky, strong
bunch who left their stamp on Whitehorse’s
history, architecture and frontier mentality.
That natural and cultural history is
found at the MacBride Museum of Yukon
History, a treasure trove of the Yukon’s
largest collection of artefacts. Exhibits
highlight the traditions of the First Nations
culture, the history and role of the Royal
Canadian Mounted Police, the territory’s
mining history and the importance of the
momentous Klondike Gold Rush—an event
which forever changed the land and the
communities. MacBride is home to the
original cabin of prospector Sam McGee
who was immortalized in Robert Service’s
poem, The Cremation of Sam McGee (www.
macbridemuseum.com).
Visitors can indulge in a little time
travel at the Yukon Beringia Interpretive
Centre’s displays and dioramas of the
prehistoric subcontinent of Beringia—the
KLUANE NATIONAL PARK AND RESERVE • PARKS CANADA/FRITZ MUELLER
dry, unglaciated land bridge that once
linked Alaska and Siberia. Beringia was
home to animals like the woolly mammoth
and steppe bison (www.beringia.com).
In the summer months, the carefully
refurbished S.S. Klondike National Historic
Site is open in dry dock for public tours
(guided and self-guided), a testimony to a
time before roads linked the Yukon to the
outside world. The craft was the largest
sternwheeler to travel the upper Yukon
River in an era in which steam-powered
riverboats shuttled cargo and passengers
between Whitehorse and Dawson City
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/ssklondike).
The world’s biggest weather vane—a
restored DC-3 aircraft—marks the entrance
to the Yukon Transportation Museum. The
exhibits relate tales of bush pilots, Klondike
stampeders, dogsledders and their spirited
sourdough perseverance and ingenuity
(www.goytm.ca).
On the edge of the historic copper
mining region, The Copperbelt Railway &
Mining Museum shines a spotlight on the
northern mining and rail history of the
Yukon (www.yukonrails.com).
In the heart of downtown, the Old Log
Church Museum is one of the oldest
buildings in Whitehorse. Inside, exhibits
YT
147
tell the stories of early missionaries,
whalers, explorers and Yukon First Nations
(www.oldlogchurchmuseum.ca).
Underwater viewing windows are an
up-close way to see the annual salmon
migration at the Whitehorse Fish Ladder,
the longest wooden ish ladder in the world.
KLUANE NATIONAL PARK
AND RESERVE
Canada’s highest mountain—Mount
Logan—is found in the dramatic mountain
and ice ranges of Kluane National Park and
Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site just
a two-hour drive from Whitehorse. Kluane’s
lakes and rivers are ideal for avid paddlers;
mountain bikers and hikers can ind their
perfect challenge from a network of trails;
wildlife watching, camping, horseback
riding and mountaineering round out the
choices for the active adventurer. Seeing
Kluane from the air is truly an indescribable
experience. Summer or winter, sightseeing
lights cross over the world’s largest
non-polar iceields—the vista of the glaciers
and mountains is breathtaking (www.
parkscanada.gc.ca/kluane).
For more information, contact
www.travelyukon.com.
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Summer hours: Daily: 9 a.m. - 6 p.m.
NT
150
44,500
Yellowknife
www.spectacularnwt.com
Direct lights to Yellowknife
Airport depart from Edmonton,
Calgary, Ottawa and Whitehorse
Yellowknife Airport is 5 km
(3 mi.) from downtown

NORTHWEST
TERRITORIES
NAHANNI NATIONAL PARK RESERVE • PARKS CANADA/F. MUELLER

The northern lights appear as a faint band at

NO irst. Then they grow in intensity, as if gaining

APPOINTMENT momentum. The green gets brighter and

shimmies as another line starts moving across
NECESSARY BY HÉLÈNA KATZ
the sky. Soon, the two bands merge and separate
repeatedly as reds and greens blend and change.

In the Northwest Territories, the phrase
“the lights are out” means the aurora
borealis is lighting up the sky. On a clear
night between October and March, when
the sky is dark enough, perhaps the aurora
will come out to play. But remember, the
lights are an unpredictable natural
phenomenon that come out on their own
schedule. That is why no appointment is
necessary.
The N.W.T. lies between the Yukon and
Nunavut but the southern part of the
territory is accessed by road from British
Columbia and Alberta. The landscape
features boreal forest in the south, tundra
north of the Arctic Circle, and the
Mackenzie and Richardson mountains to
the west. The Mackenzie River, North
America’s second-longest river, starts its
journey at Fort Providence before lowing
more than 1,000 km (621 mi.) into the
Arctic Ocean. Great Slave Lake is the
continent’s deepest lake and Great Bear
Lake is the territory’s largest lake.
The N.W.T. has 33 communities divided
into ive regions: Inuvik region, Sahtu,
North Slave, South Slave and Dehcho.
Aboriginal Peoples comprise half the
population—Dene, Métis or Inuvialuit.
Although there are 11 oicial languages,
most people speak English.
AURORA HUNTING
The Northwest Territories sits directly
beneath the auroral oval. On a clear night,
check the aurora forecast on Yellowknife’s
Astronomy North website to ind out the
likelihood of spotting the northern lights
(www.astronomynorth.com/aurora-
forecast). There are diferent ways to
experience the aurora (www.spectacular
nwt.com/what-to-do/aurora). Join a tour
operator and head out on the trail by
snowmobile or dog team to a cosy camp
that ofers a clear view of the night sky.
Head out onto frozen Great Slave Lake in
an eight-passenger Bombardier, or ly out
to a wilderness lodge for a few days.
FEEDING FRENZY
Summer brings opportunities to try
NT
151
YELLOWKNIFE • CTC
northern fare. Cast a line into a river or lake
for feisty northern pike, Arctic grayling,
Dolly Varden or lake trout. Dine on
whiteish that an outitter has prepared
over an open ire for your lunch. Spend a
day ishing near a community, or enjoy a
multi-day package at a remote lodge (www.
spectacularnwt.com/what-to-do/ishing).
Weekly summer markets in Inuvik,
Yellowknife, Hay River and Fort Smith
feature locally-grown produce as well as
homemade goods such as ireweed jelly
and birch syrup. Stop by the Inuvialuit
Regional Corporation Craft Store in Inuvik
for some dry ish and other local delicacies.
UNIQUELY NORTHERN
Drive up the Dempster Highway and take a
selie at the Arctic Circle. Compete in the
annual Billy Joss Open Celebrity Golf
Tournament on Ulukhaktok’s nine-hole
course, North America’s most northerly
course (www.arcticcharinn.com/arctic-
goling.htm). Visit the popular Igloo Church
in Inuvik. The interior is decorated with
paintings by Inuit artist Mona Thrasher.
WHAT’S NEW?
Be one of the irst to drive the all-weather
road from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk when this
new road opens in late 2017. You’ll be able
to drive to the Arctic Ocean.
Paddle bouncy whitewater, explore craggy
peaks, hike through alpine valleys or soak
in hot springs in Nááts’ihch’oh National
Park Reserve, the territory’s newest national
park, during guided or self-guided trips.
Old Town Paddle & Co. ofers stand-up
paddle boarding, another way to experience
NT
152
SPECIAL EVENTS
JANUARY
• Inuvik Sunrise Festival
MARCH
• Long John Jamboree, Yellowknife
• Polar Pond Hockey Tournament,
Hay River
• Snowking Winter Festival,
Yellowknife
• Thebacha Ski Loppet, Fort Smith
APRIL
• Muskrat Jamboree, Inuvik
JUNE
• National Aboriginal Day,
Territory-wide
• NorthWords Writers Festival,
Yellowknife
JULY
• Folk on the Rocks Music Festival,
Yellowknife
• Great Northern Arts Festival, Inuvik
• Open Sky Festival, Fort Simpson
AUGUST
• Fort Smith Summer Splash Arts
Festival
• Midway Lake Music Festival, Fort
McPherson
• Slave River Paddlefest, Fort Smith
• Thebacha & Wood Buffalo Dark Sky
Festival
www.nwtarts.com/events
the water on local rivers and lakes near
Yellowknife (www.oldtownpaddle.com).
Learn about local geology and medicinal
plants during interpretive hikes around
Yellowknife with Strong Interpretation
(www.visityellowknife.com).
CITY LIGHTS
Explore Yellowknife, the territorial capital,
on foot (www.visityellowknife.com). Enjoy
a 360-degree view of Yellowknife Bay and
surrounding Old Town from the top of the
Bush Pilots’ Monument. Take a boat tour of
Yellowknife Bay, home to North America’s
most northerly houseboat community.
Sandblast a northern motif on recycled
glass during a workshop at Old Town
Glassworks (www.oldtownglassworks.com).
A Yellowknife Farmers’ Market is held
weekly downtown throughout the summer.
The Prince of Wales Northern Heritage
Centre provides a peek into northern
culture (www.pwnhc.ca). Next door, the
Northwest Territories Legislative Assembly
ofers guided and audio tours (www.
assembly.gov.nt.ca/visitors).
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Choose from front-country campsites and
hikes to backcountry day hikes and epic
multi-week backcountry experiences in the
territory’s ive national parks and 34
territorial parks (www.nwtparks.ca). The
historic Canol Heritage Trail near Norman
Wells is a very remote, extremely rugged
and rigourous hike (www.normanwells
museum.com/the-sathu/canol-heritage-
trail). Opportunities for guided or self-guided
paddling and rafting trips are plentiful
along one of the N.W.T.’s historic rivers
including the challenging Coppermine
River, the meandering Thomsen River and
the Slave River’s world-renowned white
water (www.spectacularnwt.com/what-to-do/
summer-adventure/paddling). Enjoy ishing
day trips with an outitter or a multi-day
package experience at a wilderness lodge.
QUICK FACT
NORTHWEST TERRITORIES HAS NO
POLITICAL PARTIES. IN ELECTIONS, PEOPLE
VOTE FOR CANDIDATES BY NAME. THE MLAS
THEN VOTE FOR WHO WILL BE PREMIER.
The territory’s wildlife has a schedule
all its own, but look for nesting pelicans on
rocky outcrops in the rapids near Fort
Smith. Keep an eye out for free-roaming
bison in Wood Bufalo National Park and
the Mackenzie Bison Sanctuary near Fort
Providence. Dall sheep and mountain goats
travel on the craggy slopes of the Mackenzie
NATIVE SCULPTURE, YELLOWKNIFE • CTC
Mountains. Prehistoric-looking muskox
roam around Banks Island. Black bears,
moose, caribou and grizzly bears also call
the N.W.T. home. See peregrine falcons,
eagles and gryfalcons—the oicial N.W.T.
bird. You never know when they may
appear on your journey—and theirs.
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
Experience local music and culture such as
jigging, drumming, drum dancing and Dene
hand games at community events. Make
your own crafts during artist-led workshops
at Inuvik’s renowned Great Northern Arts
Festival (www.gnaf.org ). Learn about local
history at the Norman Wells Historical
Centre (www.normanwellsmuseum.com/
visitor-centre), the Northern Life Museum
and Cultural Centre (www.nlmcc.ca) and the
Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre.
Purchase Dene, Inuvialuit and Métis crafts
at visitor centres, museums and shops. Feel
the cashmere softness of a sweater that a
local artist knitted from qiviut, wool that
was harvested from shaggy muskox near
Sachs Harbour. Admire carvings made of
soapstone, bone or antler and created by
northern artists. Buy a Dene birchbark
basket at the Acho Dene Native Crafts store
made by women in Fort Liard. The
Inuvialuit Regional Corporation Craft Store
in Inuvik has a good selection of locally
made moccasins, carvings, jewellery, crafts
and some traditional food.
MUST SEE, MUST DO
In spring, watch some 4,500 semi-
domesticated reindeer being herded
across the Inuvik-to-Tuktoyaktuk ice
road to their summer grazing grounds.

During the summer, eat locally sourced
reindeer dishes and ish and chips cooked
inside a converted school bus at Alestine’s
and served on a terrace overlooking the
Mackenzie River in Inuvik north of the
Arctic Circle.
Travel along the edge of scenic Yellowknife
Bay in a 12-person voyageur canoe for a
Floating Dinner Theatre experience in the
summer with Narwal Northern Adventures.
Feast on a traditional meal of soup and
bannock, accompanied by lively entertain-
ment (www.narwal.ca/tours ).
Get a bird’s-eye view of the landscape during
a lightseeing tour (www.spectacular
nwt.com/what-to-do/culture-and-touring/
lightseeing).
SCENIC DRIVES
Travel through two mountain ranges and
the Continental Divide, then take your
photo at the Arctic Circle when you drive
the iconic 740-km (460-mi.) Dempster
Highway from Dawson City, Yukon to Inuvik
Arctic Lodges
´7KH:RUOG·V)LQHVW)LVKLQJ”
Celebrating
([SHULHQFHLW¿QDOO\IRU\RXUVHOI
1-800-665-0240
www.plummerslodges.com
NT
153
(www.travelyukon.com/Plan/Itineraries/
Iconic-Drives/Drive-the-Dempster).
PARK PICK
By late 2017, you will be able to drive all the
AULAVIK NATIONAL PARK
Aulavik means “place where people
way to the tiny community of Tuktoyaktuk
travel” in the local Inuvialuktun
on the Arctic Ocean. That’s when a perma-
language. This remote, ly-in only
nent road is expected to link Inuvik and “Tuk”
Arctic park is located on Banks Island
—as it is known to locals. Until then, make
near the community of Sachs
like an ice road trucker when you drive the
Harbour. Aulavik is home to the
185-km (115-mi.) winter road that’s open from
endangered Peary caribou and the
December to April. There are also winter
world’s highest concentration of
roads that link Dettah to Yellowknife, Fort
muskox. The landscape includes
Simpson to communities in the Mackenzie
rolling hills, buttes, badlands, river
Valley, and Fort Smith to Fort Chipewyan, AB.
valleys and seacoasts. The Thomsen
River, one of the continent’s most
FAMILY FUN
northerly navigable river, runs
Climb into a sled and listen to the sounds
through the heart of the park. The
of excited huskies barking with anticipation.
land has supported pre-Dorset
Then silence descends when you hit the
cultures and the Inuvialuit people for
trail and feel the power of a team of dogs
more than 3,400 years (www.
pulling you through the forest during a
parkscanada.gc.ca/aulavik).
dogsledding excursion (www.spectacular
nwt.com/what-to-do/winter-adventure/
dogsledding). In summer, the Great National Parks and Historic Sites:
www.parkscanada.gc.ca
Northern Arts Festival ofers workshops 1-888-773-8888
for both kids and adults.
Spectacular Wilderness…
Five lodges to choose we’ll get you there.
from on Great Slave
Lake, Great Bear
Lake, and the World
Famous Tree River
Home of the IGFA
World Record Lake
Trout, Arctic Char
and Arctic Grayling
YOUR
NEWFAVOURITE
ADVENTURE
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canyons cut beside natural hotsprings and thundering Virginia Falls.
Experience flight tours, fishing, and wilderness lodging with Simpson
Air – the gateway to Canada’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Talk to us & plan for adventure.
simpsonair.ca
TOLL FREE
TEL.
1-866-995-2505
867-695-2505
NORTHWEST TERRITORIES: YOU NEED TO SEE THIS
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NU
154

37,100
Iqaluit
www.nunavuttourism.com
Flights to Nunavut depart from
Ottawa, Montréal, Edmonton,
Calgary, Winnipeg, Churchill
and Yellowknife

NUNAVUT

SUNSET • NU TOURISM/WWW.NUNAVUTIMAGES.COM

CANADA’S With a burst of ireworks across the Arctic sky on

April 1, 1999, Canada’s newest territory came into

TRUE NORTH BY MARGO PFEIFF

being, a vast and spectacular expanse of treeless
tundra, glaciers, mountains and ocean that freezes in
winter. It is called Nunavut, “our land” in Inuktitut, the
language of the native Inuit people who govern the
territory and make up 84 percent of the population.

The size of Western Europe, Nunavut is
the biggest and least populated of Canada’s
provinces and territories, 2,093,190 sq. km
(808,185 sq. mi.) covering one-ifth of the
country’s total area and reaching almost to
the North Pole. With a population that
could it into an average sports stadium, it
means there is one statistically solitary
person for every 56.72 sq. km (21.9 sq. mi.);
Inuit are outnumbered nearly 17 to 1 by
caribou.
TRADITIONS LIVE ON
While the capital of Iqaluit is an increas-
ingly modern frontier town with a
population of 6,700, the 24 other commu-
nities scattered across the territory are
much smaller, some home to just a few
hundred residents. No roads link the tiny
settlements, nor are there roads connecting
Nunavut to the rest of Canada.
In the remote hamlets, life is often still
lived according to age-old timetables and
traditions. Though snowmobiles, boats and
guns have largely replaced dogsleds, kayaks
and harpoons, many Inuit continue to hunt
and ish to support their extended families.
Once nomadic, they love to go out “on the
land,” camping throughout summer,
collecting bird eggs and picking berries.
Women wear homemade amauti jackets that
keep their babies tucked against their backs.
Drum dancing, throat singing, story-
telling, sewing traditional clothes and
carving are still practiced throughout
Nunavut and locals are happy to share
the experiences.
OUT ON THE LAND
While the communities are cultural
outposts, most visitors also want to
experience the mystical Arctic wilderness
with its dramatic scenery and wealth of
wildlife. While there are certiied local
outitters in most hamlets, it is important
to book well in advance as many guides are
often hunters and won’t always be available
NU
155
SLED DOGS, BAFFIN BAY • SHUTTERSTOCK/ANDREANITA
on short notice. Southern-based outitters
ofer a variety of adventures from canoeing
and hiking to dogsledding and cultural
visits with speciic ixed dates and using
some locals as guides.
An increasingly popular way to explore
Canada’s Arctic is via cruise ships that
hopscotch along the coast, stopping at
several communities where locals welcome
guests with performances, feasts and
handmade artwork and souvenirs. Often,
Inuit elders, artists and cultural experts will
travel on-board to enhance the experience.
EXTREME TERRITORY
Temperatures range from +30 °C (86 °F) in
summer to -50 °C (-58 °F) in winter when
much of the territory lies in almost 24-hour
darkness as skies shimmer with the magical
colours of the aurora borealis. So most
visitors come during the short summers,
when pleasantly cool days are lit around
the clock by the midnight sun and the
tundra comes to life with wildlowers and
wildlife and the waters teem with whales,
walrus and seals.
WHAT’S NEW?
A new international airport is expected to
be completed in Iqaluit by the end of the
year (www.gov.nu.ca/edt/documents/
iqaluit-international-airport-project).
In September, for Canada’s 150th birthday,
Parks Canada is partnering with Adventure
NU
156
SPECIAL EVENTS
APRIL
• Hamlet Day, most communities
• Nattiq Frolics, Kuglutuk
• Nunavut Quest dogsled race
• Toonik Tyme, Iqaluit
MAY
• Omingmak Frolics, Cambridge Bay
• Pakallak Tyme, Rankin Inlet
JUNE – JULY
• Alianait Arts Festival, Iqaluit
JULY
• Canada Day, Territory-wide
• Nunavut Day, Territory-wide
AUGUST
• Nunavut Arts Festival, Cambridge Bay
www.nunavuttourism.com
Canada for a 16-day celebratory cruise
through the Northwest Passage. This
special sailing will stop at four Parks
Canada sites in Nunavut, including
Qausuittuq, Sirmilik and Auyuittuq, as well
as the wreck of HMS Erebus—the irst cruise
ship to do so (www.adventurecanada.com).
The world’s northernmost heli-skiing
operation is being launched out of the
community of Clyde River (www.weber
arctic.com/expeditions).
CITY LIGHTS
Nunavut’s capital of Iqaluit can easily be
strolled on foot. Visit the igloo-shaped
Anglican church and the Nunatta
Sunakkutaangit Museum with its Inuit
artefacts, as well as carvings and prints for
purchase in the gift shop. The Unikkaarvik
Visitor Centre features wildlife and cultural
exhibits, while the Nunavut Legislative
Building displays temporary art shows along-
side their permanent northern art collection
including the Legislative Mace carved from a
RANKIN INLET • SHUTTERSTOCK/SOPHIA GRANCHINHO
INUIT CHILDREN • NU TOURISM/FRED LEMIRE
narwhal tusk. Check the Iqaluit Visitors
Guide for local events and places to stay,
eat and shop.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Nunavut has four national parks—with a
ifth in the making—11 territorial parks and
special places, four Canadian Heritage
Rivers, as well as migratory bird sanctuar-
ies and wildlife reserves. But in reality,
untouched Arctic wilderness starts on the
doorstep of every hamlet.
From June through September there is
hiking, kayaking, whitewater rafting and
marine-mammal watching for narwhal,
bowhead and beluga whales as well as
walrus, seals and polar bears. Many of these
activities can be experienced on day trips
from communities. Sport ishing for Arctic
char, grayling, lake trout or northern pike is
popular, with ishing lodges and camps
accessible by boat and loat planes. In
winter, there is ice ishing and travelling
across the frozen tundra and sea ice by
snowmobile, on cross-country skis and via
dogsled. Choose a hamlet hotel base, camp
on the tundra with an outitter, or enjoy the
comfort of luxury wilderness lodges (www.
nunavuttourism.com ).
More adventurous travellers can canoe
the Soper River in Katannalik Territorial
Park on Southern Bain Island or the
Thelon River on the Barren Lands. Rock
climb granite peaks in Auyuittuq National
Park, BASE jump from clifs in Clyde River,
or paddle Alexandra Fjord and hike in

Quttinirpaaq National Park on Ellesmere
Island (www.blackfeather.com ).
HERITAGE AND CULTURE
Throughout Nunavut are sites once used
by nomadic Inuit. Stone rings marking the
locations of skin tents used in summers
are commonly spotted. In Qaummaarviit
Territorial Park, near Iqaluit, semi-
subterranean sod houses used by Thule
people between AD 1200 and 1700 can
be seen (www.nunavuttourism.com/
parks-special-places/territorial-parks/
qaummaarviit). There are also many
Hudson’s Bay Company trading posts,
remnants from the 19th century whaling
era and, on Beechey Island, the graves of
three men from Sir John Franklin’s
ill-fated 1845 search for the Northwest
Passage. In September 2014, one of
Franklin’s ships, the HMS Erebus, was
found by a remotely operated underwater
vehicle near King William Island and, in
September 2016, Franklin’s second ship,
the HMS Terror, was discovered of the
shores of King William Island. The
Northwest Passage can be explored on
© Scott Rosborough 2016
BRINGING ARCTIC DREAMS TO LIFE
Arctic Safaris Family Adventures Private Journeys
expedition cruises stafed with artists,
academics and Inuit (www.adventure
canada.com).
Carving is common through Nunavut,
but Cape Dorset is the epicentre of iconic
Inuit sculptures that have been gifted to
presidents, popes and royalty (www.
dorsetinearts.com). Their printmaking is
also acclaimed, as is that of Pangnirtung
(www.uqqurmiut.ca).
QUICK FACT
INUIT OFTEN RAISE THEIR EYEBROWS
INSTEAD OF SAYING “II” WHICH
MEANS YES IN INUKTITUT.
MUST SEE, MUST DO
Dogsled or kayak on a day trip out of Iqaluit
(www.inukpakoutitting.ca).
Watch polar bears and walrus emerge from
stone, antler and whalebone as carvers
work outside their homes in most hamlets.
See colourful northern lights licker across
the sky in fall and winter.
www.arctickingdom.com
NU
157
Experience Inuit throat singing and drum
dancing (www.alianait.ca).
Taste traditional Inuit country food like
Arctic char, caribou, muskox and fresh, hot
bannock bread.
Take an Arctic safari aboard a snowmobile-
drawn Inuit sled from coastal Pond Inlet,
Arctic Bay or Igloolik to the loe edge in
springtime as wildlife, from whales to polar
bears, take part in an open water feeding
frenzy (www.blackfeather.com/loe-edge).
SCENIC WALKS
Stroll easy paths through a tundra valley to
waterfalls and cultural sites at Sylvia
Grinnell Territorial Park just outside Iqaluit
(www.nunavuttourism.com/parks-special-
places/territorial-parks/sylvia-grinnell).
Hike the trail up the peak of 200-m (656-ft.)
Mount Pelly in Ovayok Territorial Park east
of Cambridge Bay for views, wildlowers
and archaeological sites (www.nunavut
tourism.com/parks-special-places/
territorial-parks/ovayok-territorial).
NU
158

Experienced backpackers can traverse the

97-km (60-mi.) Akshayuk Pass through
Auyuittuq National Park, a 10 to 14-day
PARK PICK
hike amid glaciers, sheer clifs and river
SIRMILIK NATIONAL PARK
Between the communities of Pond
crossings. Travel with an operator or
Inlet and Arctic Bay on northern Bain
arrange logistics with local boat operators
Island, Sirmilik National Park’s 22,200
in Pangnirtung and Qikiqtarjuaq. The less
sq. km (8,572 sq. mi.) are comprised
adventurous can glimpse the pass’
of three parts: Borden Peninsula is a
spectacular mountain terrain on a day’s
plateau sliced by broad river valleys;
boat ride up the jord from Pangnirtung to
Oliver Sound is a scenic jord for boating,
hike to the Arctic Circle (www.parkscanada.
wilderness hiking and camping; and Bylot
gc.ca/eng/pn-np/nu/auyuittuq/index.aspx).
Island is a spectacular and rugged island
of mountains, valleys, glaciers and
FAMILY FUN
seabird colonies. Kayak iceberg-dotted
Head to Iqaluit from Ottawa on a family-
waters, trek to red rock hoodoo spires,
friendly long weekend between February
spot migratory snow geese at their
and October. Flights, hotel and a town
biggest nesting area and visit ancient
tour are included. Activities are seasonal
archaeological Thule sites. Bylot abuts
and might include hiking, boating,
Lancaster Sound, called the “Serengeti
kayaking, ATV adventures, igloo-building,
of the Arctic” for its abundance of seals,
ice ishing, dogsledding and cross-country
narwhal, beluga and bowhead whales,
skiing (www.arctickingdom.com/getaways/
as well as walrus and polar bears
arctic-weekend-getaway/overview). While
(www.parkscanada.gc.ca/sirmilik).
there, take the kids to play with Canadian
purebred Eskimo dog puppies on a two-
National Parks and Historic Sites:
hour tour (www.inukpakoutitting.ca). www.parkscanada.gc.ca
INUIT ARTIST, DORSET ISLAND • 1-888-773-8888
NU TOURISM/L. NARRAWAY
 TRAVEL THE ARCTIC WITH
CANADA’S PAN-NORTHERN
AIR CONNECTIONS

SASKATCHEWAN
Sanikiluaq
Fort St John
Terrace
Prince George
Saskatoon

Air North, Yukon’s Airline Calm Air

Canadian North First Air
Guelph
Canadian North’s partner airlines:
Air Tindi, North Wright Air, Aklak Air DRIVING FORCE Location
Artist’s Rendition – Route details subject to change. 2017 EDITION

SP ONSORED BY:
160
TIME
ZONES
Canada stretches over six time zones all of which are behind Sections of Northwest Territories (NT) and Nunavut
Coordinated Universal Time (UTC). Time zones stated are (NU) relate to provincial time zones geographically to
universal throughout North America: the south. Labrador uses Atlantic Standard Time except
for a small southeast area which is on Newfoundland
NEWFOUNDLAND AND Newfoundland & UTC - 3.5 hours and Labrador Standard Time.
LABRADOR (NL) Labrador Standard Time
MARITIME PROVINCES Atlantic Standard Time UTC - 4 hours
The 24-hour clock is used on air, train and bus
(NS, NB, PE) schedules. Daylight saving time is in efect from
ONTARIO (ON) Eastern Standard Time UTC - 5 hours the second Sunday in March, when the clock is put
QUÉBEC (QC) forward one hour, to the irst Sunday in November.
MANITOBA (MB) Central Standard Time UTC - 6 hours Saskatchewan, the eastern reaches of Québec’s north
SASKATCHEWAN (SK) shore, Nunavut’s Southampton Island/Coral Harbour,
ALBERTA (AB) Mountain Standard Time UTC - 7 hours some eastern sections of British Columbia near the
BRITISH COLUMBIA (BC) Pacific Standard Time UTC - 8 hours Alberta border, and a few remote areas in northwestern
YUKON (YT) Ontario do not use daylight saving time.
North Pole
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Inspiration: Untamed beauty

Destination: Newfoundland & Labrador

How do we inspire a dream vacation?

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR – 10 or 12 DAYS
Contact your local travel professional or call 1-800-668-6859.
Visit denuretours.com for more inspiration.
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