Concept Building:

What You Need to Know

Learning Outcomes
In this lesson, students are expected to have:
1. discussed the different types of fabric;
2. described the methods of fabric construction; and
3. identified types of basic weaves.

Lesson 1. Types of Fabrics

Fabrics are constructed from yarns. Basically, there are 3 main types of fabrics,
woven and knit and non-woven fabric. They are produced completely differently, and
they certainly possess different properties.
A. Woven fabrics
It consists of two series of threads, warp, and weft, interlaced at right angles
to each other. The warp threads run the length of the fabric and the weft threads run
across the width of the fabric. The edge at each long side of a woven fabric is called
the selvedge and it is commonly of a different construction or appearance, to the rest
of the fabric because its function is not only to provide a firm neat edge finish to the
fabric for the sake of appearance, but also to provide a secure grip for finishing
machinery. For this reason, small regular groups of pinholes can often be seen in a
fabric selvedge showing where it was held by the machine pin. Other types of machine
use clips which do not mark the selvedges.
Common Weave Patterns
1. Plain Weave

Plain weave is the most

fundamental type of textile weave which
forms a strong, durable, and versatile cloth.

customshirt.com

In plain weave, the warp and weft

are interlaced in a basic criss-cross pattern,
with the weft thread passing over the warp
in an ‘over and under’ sequence. This
results in a checkerboard style appearance
which you can see if you closely examine a
plain-weave textile, such as cotton poplin.

pinterest.com

Image v
2. Twill

Twill is among the most widely

used weaves within textile production.
Easily identified by its pattern of diagonal
lines, twill weave is used to create strong
fabrics such as tweed, gabardine, and of
course, denim.

trimfabric.com
 Image As you can see from the diagram,
twill weave is formed by passing the weft
yarn under and over multiple warp yarns,
in an alternating sequence which creates
a diagonal ribbed pattern on fabrics
surface.

pinterest.com

3. Satin

Satin weave creates a super

smooth fabric that has a soft hand and
drapes well. This weave is achieved by
‘floating’ the warp or weft yarn over four
or more of the opposite yarn. The floating
yarn is then passed under one of the
opposite yarn before repeating the
process again.
pinterest.com

Image via
It is this long distance between the
interlocking of the yarns which helps to
create a smooth, lustrous sheen on the face
of a fabric.

pinterest.com
4. Basket weave

Basket Weave is highly like plain weave.

The same plain weave pattern is followed,
but with two or more yarns combined and
woven as one (the number of yarns used is
even and consistent throughout).

papercloth.com

This creates a more textured fabric

that greater emphasizes the checkerboard
pattern of the plain weave. Oxford cloth is
an example of a fabric that utilizes basket
weaving.

pinterest.com

5. Jacquard

Jacquard weave refers to a weaving

process that creates a bespoke patterns or
image within a fabric. A Jacquard weave is
produced on a special loom called the
Jacquard Loom, which uses a vast series of
hole-punched cards to control which yarns
are raised during the weaving process,
allowing patterns of endless complexity to
jakuten.com
be woven into the cloth.
6. Herringbone weave
This refers to a broken twill weave which
gives a herringbone (zig zag) pattern with right
and left twills appearing alternatively side by side,
both having the same width.
The herringbone weave is also called
feather twill or arrowhead twill.

pinterest.com

B. Knit Fabrics
The construction of knit fabrics is completely different from that of woven
fabrics. They are formed by interlocking yarn loops. The process is called knitting.
Yarns are running across the width of fabrics. The direction is called course. The
direction parallel to length is called wale.

heddels.com

Common Knit Fabrics

1. Single Jersey Knit

This is a light to medium weight single

knit fabric. This is the most preferred knit fabric
for making dresses and t shirts. It has good
drape. The two sides of the fabric are different.
One side of the fabric has only knit stitches
which looks like chain stitches and the other side
has purl stitches.

sewguide.com
2. Rib knit

Rib knits are fabrics with visible distinct

vertical ribs on both sides of the fabric. It is
a double-faced reversible fabric.
It is usually used to make bands on
turtlenecks, t-shirt neckband but you can make
whole garments with this fabric as well. It has a
crosswise stretch and a very soft feel. You can make
drapey flattering clothes with this. Cardigans,
sweaters, and camisoles are usually made with rib
knit fabric.
sewguide.com

3. Double knit

Double knit is a medium weight knit fabric

(almost double thickness of single knit) which usually
looks the same on both sides and has less stretch
than a single knit fabric. Ponte di Roma is a popular
double-knit fabric.

taiwantrade.com

4. Purl knit

Purl knit is a bulky knit fabric with 2 way

stretch. It is about 2-3 times the thickness of jersey
knit. It has the same look on both sides of the fabric -
with knit stitches and purl stitches appearing in the
same column along the length on the surface of the
fabric. It has a crosswise as well as lengthwise stretch.
It is usually used to make sweaters.

sewguide.com
5. Mesh knits

This is a durable open work knit which has the

look of tulle fabric. It is sheer, lightweight and has a good
stretch with good strength.

sewguide.com

C. Non-woven fabrics
Non-woven fabrics are defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by
entangling fiber or filaments, mechanically, thermally, or chemically. They are flat,
porous sheets that are made directly from separate fibers or from molten plastic or
plastic film. They do not fray and can be cut in any direction, which means there is a
little waste when laying out patterns.

1. Felted fabrics
Felt is a textile material that is produced be
matting, condensing, and pressing fibers together. Felt
can be made of natural fibers such as wool or animal
fur, or from synthetic fibers such as a petroleum-based
acrylic or acrylonitrile or wood pulp-based rayon. The
heat and damp conditions cause the fibers to curl up,
and the scales locking together prevents the fibers from
straightening out again.

wikipedia.com

2. Bonded fabrics

Bonded fabrics are made of two or more already-

constructed fabrics held together by wet adhesives or thin
polyurethane foam. Wet bonding adhesives aid in
preserving the original hand and drape of fabrics. Foam
bonding adds body, shape retention and thermal qualities
where needed in fabrics.

alibaba.com
There are three main methods of making bonded fabrics:

1. Dry laid: a web of fibers is laid in a drum and hot air is injected to bond the
fibers together.
2. Wet-laid: a web of fibers is mixed with a solvent that softens the fibers and
releases a glue-like substance that bonds the fibers together and then the
web is laid out to dry.
3. Direct spun: the fibers are spun on to a conveyer belt and glues are sprayed
on to the fibers, which are then pressed to bond; if the fibers are
thermoplastic (will change shape with heat) then the glue is not needed in
this process.

4. Laminated Fabrics

Laminated fabrics are made by bonding two or

more fabrics together. Many fabrics require extra
insulation or protection, and the foam is bonded to
provide this.

lovbeshine.com
References:
https://www.nios.ac.in/media/documents/srsec321newE/321-E-Lesson-24.pdf
http://resource.download.wjec.co.uk.s3.amazonaws.com/vtc/2016-17/16-17_1-
4/website/category/5/5natural_Synthetic_blended_and_mixed_fibres/natural_and_
manufactured_polymers/media/documents/12Fabric%20Construction.pdf
https://sewguide.com/fabric-weaving-types/
http://blog.pdfsewingpatterns.com/knit-woven-nonwoven-fabrics/
https://www.heddels.com/2017/12/7-weave-patterns-to-know-twill-basketweave-
satin-and-more/
https://www.textileschool.com/352/non-woven-fabrics/#felted-fabrics
https://oaktrust.library.tamu.edu/bitstream/handle/1969.1/164920/897/Leaf0897.p
df?sequence=2&isAllowed=y#:~:text=Bonded%20fabrics%20are%20made%20of,qual
ities%20where%20needed%20in%20fabrics.