Concept Building:

What You Need to Know

Learning Outcomes
In this lesson, students are expected to have:
1. drafted the patterns of a blouse with sleeves and pencil cut skirt; and
2. mastered skills in pattern drafting.

Lesson 2. Pattern Drafting

A. Front pattern
Steps Measurements Needed
1. Draw foundation line. Shoulder = 15” ÷ 2 = 7 1/2”
Apex distance = 7” ÷ 2 = 3 1/2”
2. A-B = 3” neck depth
Bust = 34” ÷ 4 = 8 1/2”
3. A-C = ½ shoulder measurement plus 1” Waist = 26” ÷ 4 = 6 1/2”
4. A-D = apex height Hips = 35” ÷ 4 = 8 3/4”
Apex height = 9 1/2”
5. A-E = figure
Figure = 15 1/2”
6. A-F = blouse length Blouse Length = 24”
7. Project points A, C, D, E and F sideward
8. F-G = 3/4”
9. A-H = 2 ½” (neck width)
10. Shape the neckline by connecting points B
and H with a french curve
11. A-I = 1/2 shoulder measurement
12. Project point I downward
13. I-J = 1 ½”
14. Connect points H and J
15. J-K = 4”
16. K-L = 3/4”
17. C-M = ¼ bust measurement plus 1”
18. Shape the armhole by connecting points J, L
and M with a french curve.
19. E-N = ¼ waist measurement plus 1 ½”
20. F-O = ¼ hip measurement plus ½”
21. Shape the sides by connecting points M and
N; N and P with a hip curce.
22. Connect points O and G using a hip curve
23. D-P = 1/2 apex distance
24. E-Q = 1/2 apex distance
25. Connect points P and Q. Extend the line
downward.
26. Q-R = 5 1/2”
27. Q-S = 5/8”
28. Q-T = 5/8”
29. Shape the dart by connecting points P and S;
S and R; P and T ; and T and R.
30. B-b = 1” or as desired
31. H-h = 1” or as desired
32. Re-shape the neckline by connecting points b
and h with a french curve.

B. Back Pattern

Steps:
1. Extend all horizontal lines.
2. Draw foundation line.
3. Mark intersections as point 1, 3, 5, and 6.
4. Project lines 1, 3, 5, and 6 sideward.
5. 1-2 = 1”
6. 1-7 = 2 1/2” (neck width)
7. Shape the neckline by connecting points 2 and 7 with a french curve
8. 1-8 = ½ shoulder measurement.
9. Project point 8 downward
10. 8-9 = 1 1/2”
11. Connect points 7 and 9
12. 9-10 = 4”
13. 10-11 = 1/2”
14. 3-12 = 1/4 bust measurement plus 1/2”
15. Shape the armhole by connecting points 9, 11 and 12 with a french curve
16. 5-13 = ¼ waist measurement plus 1 ½”
17. 6-14 = ¼ hip measurement plus ½”
18. Shape the side by connecting points 12 and 13; and points 13 and 14 with a hip
curve
19. 4-15 = 1/2 apex distance
20. 5-16 = 1/2 apex distance
21. Connect points 15 and 16. extend the line downward
22. 16-17 = 5 1/2”
23. 16-18 = 5/8”
24. 16-19 = 5/8”
25. Shape the dart by connecting points 15 and 18; 18 and 17; 15 and 19; and 19
and 17.
26. 7- 20 = 1” or as desired (Note. The width of the back neckline should be the
same with the front pattern.)
27. Re-shape the neckline by connecting points 2 and 20 with a french curve

C. Sleeve Pattern

Steps:
1. Draw foundation line.
2. Mark corner as point A. Measurements needed:
3. A- B = sleeve cap measurement Sleeve cap 4 ½”
Sleeve length 7”
4. A-C = sleeve length Upper arm girth 13 ÷ 2 = 6½”
measurement
Lower arm girth 12”÷ 2 = 6”
5. Project points A, B and c on both
sides of the pattern
6. B-D = ½ upper arm girth plus 1
¼”
7. B-E = B-D
8. C-F = ½ lower arm girth plus 1”
9. Connect points D and F
10. C-G = C-F
11. Connect points E and G
12. H = midpoint of points B and D
13. I = midpoint of points B and E
14. J = midpoint of H and D
15. A-K = same as distance of points
H to J or J to D
16. Connect points K and J
17. L = midpoint of points K and J
18. M = 1/3 distance of E to I
19. A-N = same as distance of E to M
20. Connect points E and N
21. O = midpoints of points E and
N
22. Shape the armscye by connecting points A, L and D; and points A, O, and E with a
french curve.

D. Skirt Pattern (Front Part)

Steps
Measurements needed:
1. Draw foundation line. Waist 28” ÷ 4 = 7”
2. Mark the corner as point A
Hips 35” ÷ 4 = 8 ¾”
3. A-B = hip depth
4. A-C =skirt length Apex distance 7” ÷ 2 = 3 ½”
5. C-D = 3/4” downward Hip depth 7”
6. Project points A, B, and C Skirt length 15”
sideward
7. A-E = 1/4 waist measurement
plus 1 1/4” .
8. B-F = 1/4 hip measurement plus
1/2”
9. C-G = B-F
10. Connect points E and F with a
hip curve.
11. Connect points F and G
12. A-H = 1/2 apex distance
13. Project point H downward
14. H- I = 3 1/2” downward
15. H-J = 5/8” sideward
16. H -K = 5/8” sideward
17. Connect points J and I
18. Connect points K and I
19. Connect points D and G with a
hip curve
20. A- L = 1/2” downward
21. Connect points E and L with a
hip curve.
E. Skirt Pattern (Back Part)

Steps:
1. Extend lines A, B and C
sideward Measurements needed:
2. Draw foundation line. Waist 28” ÷ 4 = 7”
3. Mark intersections as points Hips 35” ÷ 4 = 8 ¾”
1, 2, and 3. Apex distance 7” ÷ 2 = 3 ½”
4. 1-4 = 1/4 waist Hip depth 7”
measurement plus 1 1/4” . Skirt length 15”
5. 2-5 = 1/4 hip measurement
plus 1/2”
6. 3-6 = 2-5
7. 7-8 = 5 1/2”
8. Connect points 4 and 5 with
a hip curve
9. Connect points 5 and 6
10. 1-7 = 1/2 apex distance
11. Project point 7 downward
12. 7-9 = 5/8” sideward
13. 7-10= 5/8” sideward
14. Connect points 9 and 8
15. Connect points 10 and 8