Chapter I

FUNDAMENTALS OF CLOTHING
CONSTRUCTION

This chapter covers the

following lessons:

Lesson 1. Sewing Tools and

Equipment
Lesson 2. The Sewing Machine

Definition of Key Terms

Clothing. An item worn on the human body. It is specifically made of fabrics

or textiles, animal skin or other thin sheets of materials put
together.

Sewing. the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with
a needle and thread

Sewing Machine. A machine which is mechanically driven needle used to

stitch materials together with thread. It is designed to join pieces
of fabric or leather by means of either a lockstitch or a chain
stitch.
 Concept Building:
What You Need to Know

Learning Outcomes
In this lesson, students are expected to have:
1. classified tools according to their functions and uses;
2. identified the types of sewing machines and their functions; and
3. familiarized the different parts of the sewing machine.

Lesson 1- Sewing Tools and Equipment

In today’s fashion era, well fitted comfortable garments are given greater
importance. Garments construction starts with the accurate measurements on hand
used in drafting patterns, cutting, and stitching the fabric. Each of these processes
requires the use of tools and equipment for quick and accurate work. Knowledge of
the tools and equipment is very important to communicate effectively in the
workplace and to minimize errors.

Classification of Tools
Clothing construction requires a variety of tools that can be classified into the
following categories: measuring tools, marking tools, cutting tools, fitting tools,
sewing tools, finishing tools, general tools.

Using the right tool will help make the garment construction easier. These tools
help increase the accuracy of the finished output, saves time, and simplify tasks.

A. Measuring Tools
The following are the commonly used tools for measuring:

1. Tape Measure
A soft and flexible strip/ribbon with linear measurement markings use in
taking body measurements.

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2. Ruler or Yard Stick
Ruler or yard stick is the best device for taking long, straight measurements on
paper.

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3. L-square or Tailor’s square

It resembles the letter L with perfect right-angled corner. Divides the garment
into the desired measurement. It perfects squares and is useful in making straight
lines and numbers. It can also function like a tape measure. It has two arms
connected perpendicularly.

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 The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.

 The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long.

Characteristics of the Longer Arm

 In front of the longer arm, there are six (6)
different columns. The numbers found in
every column are equal.
 The six (6) column parts are: a. 1/24

b. 1/12
c. 1/6
d. 1/3
e. 2/3
 By inch or the 24 inches column

Characteristics of the Shorter Arm

 Starting from the corner of the short one we
can observe the following:
a. 1/32
b. 1/16
c. 1/8
d. 1/4
 4. Hem Marker/ Skirt Marker
A hem marker is used to measure skirt hem lengths evenly from the floor. It
provides much quicker and more accurate method of marking hems than yardstick.

strima.com

5. Gauge
A sewing gauge is a ruler, typically 6 inches long, used for measuring short
spaces. It is typically a metal scale, marked in both inches and centimeters with a
sliding pointer, similar in use to a caliper.

jbhphoto

B. Marking Tools

The following are the most used marking tools.

1. Tailor’s Chalk
A thin flat piece of hard chalk or soapstone used by tailors and seamstresses
for making temporary marks on cloth. This type of special chalk marks the spot on a
garment where a garment might need to be taken in or let out, shortened or mark
the placement of where to place an embellishment making it easy to see the exact
placement.

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2. Marking pencil
These are convenient and precise tools for marking cutting and stitching
lines. These are available in white and pastel colours. Since the marking pencil is
made of wax, the coloured lines can be removed by simple washing.

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3. Tracing wheel

It is used with or without dressmaker’s carbon paper to transfer pattern

marking onto the fabric. Tracing wheel is about 15 cm in length, having a wheel with
saw-like periphery, which is connected by means of stem and at the rear end with a
convenient handle.
Tracing wheels are available in variety of edges.
1) Needle-point wheel makes a faint line that is desirable on fine thin
fabrics.

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2) A serrated edge produces a prominent line that is good for marking

heavy, loosely woven fabrics deep points are more effective on thicken
fabrics.

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 3) A smooth wheel is recommended for delicate fabrics such as velvet
and knit that are subjected to snagging and are damaged by other types of
wheels.

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4. Dressmaker’s Carbon paper

By using carbon paper constructional details such as shape of the pattern,
cutting and stitching line can easily be transferred on the material. These are
available in white and several colors.

C. Cutting Tools

1. Dressmaking Shears
Dress making shears are heavy duty scissors which are designed
specifically with the needs of seamstresses in mind.

The distinguishing feature of dressmaker's shears is that the handle is

offset from the blades, allowing them to be used to cut fabric against a flat surface
without distortion. In shears, one of the finger rings is typically larger than the other.
In industrial terms, the finger rings on scissors and shears are known as “bows”. The
large bow of a shear is usually on the side of the blade which points towards the
floor when in use. The length of the blade varies from 25 to 30 cm.

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2. Electric Shears
These are used in most sample rooms. Electric shear is a type of hand tool
suitable for a variety of cutting applications. They are essentially battery-powered
shears. Electric shears are also known as power scissors or cordless scissors. They
resemble a utility knife with dual crossing blades on the end rather than a single
blade, but a few models are designed slightly different. Most varieties are powered
by alkaline batteries, but a few are powered by rechargeable batteries. They are
ideal for cutting silk, nylon, and soft, hard-to-cut fabric.
They produce a notched cutting line

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3. Pinking Shears
These shears are used for pinking seams or decorative edges. They are
used to add a ravel-resistant seam finish to loosely woven fabric. It automatically
notches and reduces bulk in seams and creates a decorative finish. Blade lengths
range from 7" to 10 1/2" and are available in lightweight models, as well as
scalloping shears for a more rounded effect.

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4. Serrated Shears
Serrated blade shears range in size from 7 to 8 inches with offset
blunt-shaped blades, one of which is serrated. Blades are joined by an adjustable
bolt and designed with equally sized ring handles.

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5. Scissors
Scissors are hand operated cutting instruments. They are 5 to 6 inches
long, used for light cutting, trimming, clipping corners and cutting curves. They are
designed for snipping threads and trimming seams. They are also used for cutting
various thin materials, such as paper, cardboard, metal foil, thin plastic, cloth, rope,
and wire.

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Care Guidelines While Using Shears and Scissors

1. Take long strokes using the length of the blades.

2. Do not use fabric-cutting scissors for cutting paper or other non-fabric
materials.
3. Wipe scissors with dry cloth after each use. This is especially important after
cutting polyesters and other synthetics since lint from these manmade
fibers is abrasive and can dull the blades.
4. Keep the cutting blades sharp. Scissors and shears may be sharpened using
a professional-style electric sharpener or they may be sent to a professional
sharpening service.
5. Occasionally oil the pivot screw with a tiny drop of sewing machine oil.
Open and close the blades few times, then wipe the blades with a soft cloth.
6. Don't force a cut -this can deform the blades or spread them permanently.
7. Store scissors or shear in a box or pouch.
8. Never drop shears the floor, it loses its sharpness.

6. Rotary Cutter
This tool helps in cutting more than five layers of cloth at a time. It is
electrically operated having a round circular shaped blade with a guard in the front
of the blade

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D. Fitting Tools
French Curve / Tailor’s Curve:
The main function of the curve stick is to give shape especially at
neckline, arm hole, waist, crotch etc. It is made up of good quality wood or plastic
with shaped curves marked in inches. Sometimes it is also used for measuring the
length of the curve that is shaped.

sewingworkshop.com

E. Sewing Tools

The correct selection of sewing thread and needle prior to garment

assembly is essential to achieve required finish to the garment.

 Needle
 Sewing Threads
 Sewing Aids

1. Needle
Needles are classified as follows:
Hand Sewing Needles
A hand sewing needle is a long, slender steel shaft, with an eye at
one end. The shaft tapers to a fine ball point tip or wedge end. These
needles function to carry the thread through the fabric while hand sewing.
Needles are designed in a variety of sizes, types, and classifications
developed according to specific use.

For each needle type, sizes range from a low number, (coarse
needle) to higher number (finer needle). Diameter of the needle shaft
increases proportionately at the eye end according to the length and size.

Machine Sewing Needles

Sewing machine needles are made up of steel. They are
manufactured in different sizes and types for both industrial and home
sewing machines. Size range from fine to coarse and are chosen regarding
interaction of yarn of the fabric and size of thread. Higher numbers indicate
thicker points and coarser needles. Needles are standardized and classified
regarding the type and model number of machines on which they are used.
 Kinds:

1. Ball-point needles are used for sewing knits and meshes. The rounded
tip of this needle passes between the fibers of the fabric.
2. Sharp-point needles are used for sewing fine woven fabrics. The
pointed, sharp tip pierces the fibers of the fabric.
3. Universal point needles can be used for sewing both knits and woven’s.
It is an excellent needle for general sewing use.
4. Denim needles are used for sewing heavy, dense needle such as denim.
5. Leather needles have a wedge-shaped tip for punching through leather,
even for heavy vinyl and similar fabrics. Care should be taken while
sewing with these needles as they leave large holes on removal of
stitches.
2. Sewing Threads

Sewing thread is an integral component of the garment though it is often

invisible.
3. Sewing Aids
 Dressmaker’s Pins
Comes in different sizes for use in different fabrics, for holding of
fabrics together temporarily before machining. These are long slender pins
with highly polished finish and a fine tip for easy penetration into fabric
without puckering it.

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 Thimble
A sewing thimble protects the middle finger of the right hand while
hand sewing. Helps to push needles through the material being sewn and to
prevent fingers getting pierced by the needle.

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 Seam ripper
A seam ripper is used to remove and pick out unwanted
stitches/threads. The fine tip of a seam ripper picks out single thread and
cuts it.

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 Needle Threader
It can be used for both hand and machine needles to push the wire
through needle eye.

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F. Finishing/Pressing Tools
Once the garment is constructed, it is subjected to neatening through
trimming and pressing. Pressing is important at every stage of stitching because poor
pressing can destroy the appearance of a well-constructed garment. In addition to
the sewing tools and sewing machine, good pressing equipment is also essential.
 Iron
 Ironing board
 Sleeve Board
 Press Cloth

G. General Tools
1. Pin Cushion
Pin cushions are useful to store needles before and after they are
removed from the fabric.

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2. Dress Form

It is a padded form of body and may be made of wood, cardboard,

plaster, reinforced plastic. It is an essential necessity in all sample rooms for
designing and fitting.

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Lesson 2- The Industrial Sewing Machine

Types of Sewing Machine
Well-selected sewing machine is essential for achieving good results. It
should be used correctly in accordance with the job requirements.

1. Lockstitch Sewing Machine

This is usually used in homes and sometimes in school. It is also called

“Domestic Sewing Machine”. It is run by foot and may also be converted to electrical
power machine.

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2. Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine/Industrial Sewing Machine

This is sometimes called “Straight Stitching Machine” or Industrial
sewing machine. It has automatic lubrication and used by tailors and dressmakers.

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2. Over Edging Machine/ Overlock Sewing Machine
Other companies call it “small machine”. It finishes the raw edges of the
pattern for construction.

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3. Embroidery Machine
This is used in making fancy stitches and in making different kinds of
embroidery stitches on fabrics for Barong Tagalog, pillow cases, linen, and other
novelty items.

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4. Button Attachment Machine

This is used in attaching buttons to the garments.

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5. Bartacking Machine
This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets.

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Parts of the Lockstitch Sewing Machine

Thread spool stand

Thread spool
tray

Hand wheel

Stitch Regulator

Bartack lever

Bobbin
Oil sight winder
window
 Thread
tension disc

Spool pin

Thread Guide
Presser adjusting
screw

Take up lever

Hand lifter
Thread tension disc
Face plate
Thread tension
spring

Slide plate

Throat plate

Thread guide
Tension

Needle bar
Needle guard
Needle

Presser foot

Feed dog
 Oil reservior

Power switch

Belt Pulley

Knee lifter

Threadle/Foot pedal

Table drawer

Motor lever adjustment

Bobbin and bobbin case

Machine Terminologies
Arm The horizontal part of the head that houses the drive
shafts.

Bed The working surface of the machine under which is located

the mechanism that handles the lower thread.

Balance wheel/hand The part that controls the motion of the machine manually
wheel and/or electrically.

Bartack lever/ feed A lever at the right side of the machine when pushed
lever downward will make reverse stitches.

Belt (motor belt or The circular strap that transmits motion from the pulley to
machine belt) the hand wheel, allowing the machine to operate.

Bobbin Is one of the integral parts which holds the lower thread.

Bobbin case also known as bobbin holder which is used in holding the
bobbin.

Bobbin Mechanism The parts - bobbin, bobbin case, and bobbin tension spring
- that control the lower thread and Its tension.

Bobbin winder The part that fills another bobbin while the sewing
machine is stitching.

Face plate The cover on the left side of the bead that covers the
needle bar and the presser bar.

Feed dogs (feed dog, The toothed mechanism beneath the presser foot that
feeder, or feed)- moves fabric forward and backward.

Fittings The parts - presser foot, feed dogs, and throat plate - that
control the cloth during stitching.

Hand lifter (presser bar A lever at the back of presser bar to raise and lower the
lifter) presser foot by hand. It is used to raise the presser foot
when winding a bobbin and when not stitching.

Head The part of the machine above the table, containing the
stitching mechanism.

Heel The back of the presser foot.

Hook (rotary hook or A rotating device that hooks the needle thread to carry it
machine hook) around the bobbin and form the “lock” on the lockstitch.
Knee lifter or knee A lever mounted at the right under the sewing table to lift
press and lower the presser foot with the right knee.

Motor The electrical unit that drives the machine.

Motor lever Use for adjusting the pressure of the treadle.

adjustment

Needle The part that penetrates the fabric. It carries the thread to
the hook or shuttle and up again to make the stitch.

Needle bar A vertical bar that holds one or more needles and moves
the needle up and down.

Needle screw (needle The screw that holds the needle in the needle bar.
bar clamp)

Needle guard Use to prevent injuries from the needle while sewing.

Oil gauge The part that Indicates the amount of oil in self-oiling
machines.

Oil reservoir (pan or The metal pan under the head that catches oil, lint, and
machine pan) metal shards. On self-lubricating machines, it holds the oil.

Oil sight window Determines the availability of oil in the machine tank.

Presser bar The bar to which the presser foot is attached.

Power switch A key or button that turns the machine on and off.

Presser adjusting screw Adjusted when sewing heavy and light fabrics.

Presser foot A device that holds the fabric in place for stitching.

Pulley The wheel attached to the motor. It transmits motion from

the motor to the hand wheel by means of a leather belt.

Rotary hook assembly The part that holds the bobbin case.

Shuttle An oscillating device that carries the needle thread around

the bobbin and forms the “lock” on the lockstitch.
Slack thread regulator A metal hook or bar near the tension discs.

Slide plate (slide or bed A removable cover at the left of the machine bed that bed
slide) allows access to the lower mechanism.

Spool pin It is placed vertically or horizontally which is used for

holding the spool of threads.

Sole (shoe or slipper) The bottom part of the presser foot that contracts the
cloth.

Stand A metal structure upon which the table is mounted.

Stitch hole (needle The hole in the throat plate. The needle carries the thread
hole)- into the hole so that it can interlock with the bobbin
thread.

Stitch regulator A device that regulates stitch length.

Table The cabinet upon which the bead rests, it generally has a
drawer on the left side.

Take up lever The part that first loosens the top thread during the stitch
formation, then removes any slack to set or lock the stitch.

Take-up lever guard A piece of metal in front of the thread take-up lever.

Tension Controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.

Tension discs The part that first loosens the top thread during the stitch
formation, then removes any slack to set or lock the stitch.

Thread guides (thread The parts that guide the thread from the thread cone
eyelets) (thread eyelets) to the needle. They smooth the thread
and protect it from abrasion.

Thread retainer A three-hole guide that applies a small amount of tension

(pretension) on the thread so it win flow into the tension discs
uniformly.

Thread spool stand/ A stand for thread safety place.

thread spool tray

Tension spring (check A small wire spring behind or at the top of the tension
spring or take-up discs. It provides a small amount of tension on the needle
spring)-
 thread and acts as a shock absorber.

Threadle or foot pedal The clutch and brake where you place your foot to make
the machine start or stop.

Throat plate The smooth surface directly under the presser foot that
includes the stitch hole and surrounds the feed dog. It
protects the lower mechanism from a build-up of excess
lint.

Toes (Prongs)- The front end of the presser foot, or the part that faces the
oncoming cloth. It is frequently upturned.

References:

https://juki.myalbino.com/
https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2017/02/different-parts-of-sewing-machine-
with.html
https://www.slideshare.net/johnlenonmendoza/parts-and-function-of-sewing-machi
ne
https://www.sewmuchmoore.com/industrial-sewing-machine-maintenance/