Fitting shop

Definition:
The work carried out by hand at the bench is called bench work.
Whereas fitting is the assembling of parts together by fitting, chipping, sawing,
fore capping, tapping etc. fitting shop tool the tool which are used in fitting lab
are called fitting shop tools. In all these processes, components are produced
with the help of either machines or manual effort. The attention of a fitter is
required at various stages of manufacture starting from marking to assembling
and testing the finished processes.

Processes in the fitting shop

There are some processes in fitting shop:

 Drilling
 Marking
 Measuring
 Sawing
 Drilling
 Reaming
 Dieing
 Tapping

Fitting shop tools

Classification:
 Marking, measuring and testing tools
 Cutting tools
 Holding tools
 Striking tools
 Loosing and tightening tools
 Drilling tools
 Threading tool
 Punching tools
 Marking, measuring and testing tool
Definition:
Marking and measuring a work piece accurately is very important whether in a
mechanical workshop or the construction industry. Here is a selection of the
tools that are used for marking and measuring. Marking is done on the job to
locate the exact point where we have to carry out some other processes

Marking and Layout Tools

Marking and Measuring Tools are as follows:

 Scriber
 Punch
 Try square
 Dividers
 Spirit level
 Folding rule
 Vernier calliper
 Micrometer
 Thread pitch gauge

Scriber:
A scriber is a hand tool used in metalworking to mark lines on work pieces,
prior to machining. The process of using a scriber is called scribing and is just
part of the process of marking out. It is used instead of pencils or ink lines,
because the marks are hard to see, easily erased, and inaccurate due to their
wide mark; scribe lines are thin and semi-permanent. On non-coated work
pieces marking blue is commonly used to increase the contrast of the mark lines.

 
Punch:
A punch is a hard metal rod with a sharp tip at one end and a blunt butt end at
the other, which is usually struck by a hammer. Typically, woodworkers use a
ball-peen hammer to strike a punch.

Pin punch:
Metal pins and similar connectors are driven in or out of holes using a pin
punch. For removal, first use a starter punch to loosen the pin, then use a pin
punch to finish.

Center punch:
A center punch is used to mark the center of a point. It is usually used to mark
the center of a hole when drilling holes. A drill has the tendency to "wander" if
it does not start in a recess. A center punch forms a large enough dimple to
"guide" the tip of the drill. The tip of a center punch has an angle between 60
and 90 degrees. When drilling larger holes, and the web, that is the center of the
drill tip, is wider than the indentation produced by a center punch, the drilling of
a pilot hole is usually needed. An automatic center punch operates without the
need for a hammer.
Prick punch:
A prick punch is similar to a center punch but used for marking out. It has a
sharper angled tip to produce a narrower and deeper indentation. The
indentation can then be enlarged with a center punch for drilling. The tip of a
prick punch is 40 degrees (the angle depends on what type of prick punch one is
using). It is also known as a dot punch.

Transfer punch:
A transfer punch is a punch (usually in an index set) of a specific outer diameter
that is non-tapered and extends the entire length of the punch (except for the
tip). It is used to tightly fit the tolerances of an existing hole and, when struck,
precisely transfer the center of that hole to another surface. It can be used, for
example, to duplicate the hole patterns in a part, or precisely set locations for
threaded holes (created by drilling and tapping) to bolt an object to a surface.

Drift punch:
A drift "punch" is misleadingly named; it is not used as a punch in the
traditional sense of the term. A drift punch, or drift pin, or lineup punch, is used
as an aid in aligning bolt or rivet holes prior to inserting a fastener. A drift
punch is constructed as a tapered rod, with the hammer acting on the large end
of the taper. The tapered end of a drift punch is placed into the semi-aligned bolt
holes of two separate components, and then driven into the hole. As it is driven
in, the taper forces the two components into alignment, allowing for easy
insertion of the fastener. Unlike most punches, force is never (and should never
be) applied to the tip, or end of a drift pin.

Spring or roll pins:

Spring punches, also called roll pin punches, are used to drive roll pins.
Standard pin punches should never be used on a roll pin. Because of the hollow,
thin wall construction of a roll pin, a standard pin punch will often collapse, mar
or distort the end of the pin or be driven into, and jammed inside, the hollow
core of the roll pin. When choosing a roll pin punch, select one that is no larger
than the compressed diameter of the pin. If a punch is used that is larger than
the pin, the surrounding metal in which the pin is seated can be damaged. Also,
a roll pin punch should not be used which is smaller than the compressed
diameter of the pin. If this occurs, it may be possible to drive the punch through
the hollow center of the roll pin. Roll pin punches are designed with a small
projection in the center of the pin tip to support the circumference of the roll
pin. The tips of roll pin punches are not flat and should never be used on regular
solid pins. If a roll pin punch is used on a solid pin, it will mar or mark the pin.
Tri Square:
Tri Squares are made from tool steel, and they are particularly useful when we
are to find out if surfaces are right-angled to each other or not.
 

Dividers:
Dividers are made from tool steel, but in the top hoop spring steel is used. They
are used for transferring measurements from rules to a work piece and for
marking out arcs and circles.
 

Spirit Level:
A spirit level can be made out of metal or plastic. Embedded in it is a small
container of ethanol with a bubble in it. When the bubble is in a marked position
the surface will be level, either horizontal or vertical.

 
Measuring Tools
Engineers’ Rule and Folding Rule:
An engineers' rule is made of stainless or carbon steel and is used for measuring
length. A folding rule is made of wood and is used by carpenters and others who
work with wood.
 

Measuring Tape:
This is used to measure the length of an object where the measurement does not
have to be so accurate.
 

Vernier calliper:
Vernier calipers give an accurate measurement of width and inside and outside
diameters. They may also measure depth.
 
Micrometer:
There are several types of micrometers. A micrometer is used to measure
diameters and depth when higher accuracy is demanded. It can give a reading to
the accuracy of 0.001 mm.
 

Thread Pitch Gauge:

A thread pitch gauge is used to measure the threads on a screw. It has many thin
blades each with a number which shows the distance between the threads.

Cutting tools
Cutting tool includes:

 Files
 Drills
 Taps
 Dies
 Reamers
 Hack saw
 Chizzles
Files:
A file is a tool used to remove fine amounts of material from a workpiece. It is
common in woodworking, metalworking, and other similar trade and hobby
tasks. Most are hand tools, made of a case hardened steel bar of rectangular,
square, triangular, or round cross-section, with one or more surfaces cut with
sharp, generally parallel teeth. A narrow, pointed tang is common at one end, to
which a handle may be fitted. A rasp is a form of file with distinct, individually
cut teeth used for coarsely removing large amounts of material.

Single cut:

Single-cut files have rows of

teeth cut parallel to each
other at an angle of about 65
degrees from the centreline.
Single-cut files are used for
sharpening tools, finish
filing and draw-filing. They are also the best tools for smoothing the edges of
sheet metal.

Double cut file:

A file with a surface cut

into two series of
parallel ridges crossing
each other usually at less
than a right angle, both
ridges being diagonal to
the centre line of the file.
FLATE FILE:

It is similar to a hand file rectangular in section, tapered slightly in width and

thickness towards the tip. It has Double Cut teeth on two faces and Single Cut
teeth on two sides.

SQAURE FILE:

A square file is a metal tool with a rough surface used to

remove small amounts of wood or metal from a work
piece.

ROUND FILE:

Round files are machinist's files and, just like half round
files, they can be used for creating semicircular grooves,
finishing and deburring concave

HALF ROUND FILE:

A file is a tool used to remove fine amounts of

material from a work piece. It is common
in woodworking, metalworking, and other similar
trade and hobby tasks. However, the half round
file has a curved surface which is especially useful for filing internal curves

TRIANGULAR FILE:
 A triangular file is a specialized tool for trimming and sharpening edges. Its
unique, three-sided design makes it a great tool for sharpening hard-to-reach
places such as saw teeth.

HAND FILE:

The common file used for

roughing and finishing. It is a
rectangular in section and
parallel in width. It has double cut teeth on two faces, single cut teeth on one
edge, and one save edge.
Drill:
A drill is a tool fitted with a cutting tool attachment or driving tool attachment,
usually a drill bit or driver bit, used for making holes in various materials or
driving screws. The attachment is gripped by a chuck at one end of the drill and
rotated while pressed against the target material. The tip, and sometimes edges,
of the cutting tool does the work of cutting into the target material. This may be
slicing off thin shavings (twist drills or auger bits), grinding off small particles
(oil drilling), crushing and removing pieces of the work piece (SDS masonry
drill), countersinking, counter boring, or other operations.

 Parts of drill bit

 Neck
 Lip
 Lip handle
 Heal

Length:

For Morse taper-shank drill bits,

the standard continues in 1/64 inch
increments up to 1¾ inch, then 1/32 inch increments up to 2¼ inch, 1/16 inch
increments up to 3 inches, 1/8 inch increments up to 3¼ inches, and a single 1/4
inch increment to 3½ inches.

Neck:

Drilling the neck bolt holes is one of the

most critical operations in the construction of
a bolt-on neck guitar. The holes must be
properly sized and located so that the neck is
secure in the pocket, insuring that the vibrations and resonance of the
instrument are not compromised.

Shank:

The shank is the end of a drill

bit grasped by the chuck of a
drill. The cutting edges of the
drill bit contact the work piece,
and are connected via the shaft
with the shank, which fits into
the chuck. In many cases a
general-purpose arrangement is used, such as a bit with cylindrical shaft and
shank in a three-jaw chuck which grips a cylindrical shank tightly. Different
shank and chuck combination can deliver improved performance, such as
allowing higher torque, greater centering accuracy, or moving the bit, but not
the chuck, with a hammer action.

Lip angle:

The lip angle determines the amount of

support provided to the cutting edge. A greater
lip angle will cause the bit to cut more aggressively under the same amount of
point pressure as a bit with a smaller lip angle. Both conditions can cause
binding, wear, and eventual catastrophic failure of the tool. The proper amount
of lip clearance is determined by the point angle. A very acute point angle has
more web surface area presented to the work at any one time, requiring an
aggressive lip angle, where a flat bit is extremely sensitive to small changes in
lip angle due to the small surface area supporting the cutting edges.

Heal:

The geometry and sharpening of the cutting edges is crucial to the performance
of the bit. Small bits that become blunt are often discarded because sharpening
them correctly is difficult and they are cheap to replace. For larger bits, special
grinding jigs are available. A special tool grinder is available for sharpening or
reshaping cutting surfaces on twist drill bits in order to optimize the bit for a
particular material.

Reamers:

A reamer is a multi-point cutting tool used for enlarging by finishing

previously drilled holes to accurate sizes.

Advantages of 'reaming':

 Reaming produces
 High quality surface finish
 Dimensional accuracy to close limits.
  Also small holes, which cannot be finished by other processes, can be
finished.

Classification of reamers:

Reamers are classified as a) Hand reamers and b) Machine reamers. (As shown
in the below two figs.)

Reaming by using hand reamers is done manually, for which great skill is
needed.

Machine reamers are fitted on spindles of machine tools and rotated for
reaming.

Machine reamers are provided with Morse taper shanks for holding on machine
spindles.

Hacksaw:
A hacksaw is a fine-toothed saw, originally and mainly made for cutting metal.
The equivalent saw for cutting wood is usually called bow saw. Most hacksaws
are hand saws with a C-shaped frame that holds a blade under tension. Such
hacksaws have a handle, usually a pistol grip, with pins for attaching a narrow
disposable blade.
Chisel:
A chisel is a tool with a characteristically shaped cutting edge (such that wood
chisels have lent part of their name to a particular grind) of blade on its end, for
carving or cutting a hard material such as wood, stone, or metal by hand, struck
with a mallet, or mechanical power. The handle and blade of some types of
chisel are made of metal or of wood with a sharp edge in it.

DIE:

Die is a tool use for producing thread.

DIE STOCK:

The die cuts a thread on a preformed cylinder

rod, which creates a male threaded piece which
functions like a bolt.

TAP:

A tap cuts a thread on the inside surface of a hole

creating a female surface which functions like a nut

TAP HANDLE:

The device which hold the tap

 Striking tools:
Striking tool is a very basic hand tool consisting of a weighted head attached to
a handle.

Hammer:
A wide range of Hammers are available, varying in shape, size and weight. The
different styles reflect different uses. Around the house, the average dyer only
really needs one or two type. The shape of Hammer heads has not changed
much over the years although some modern materials are now used in both the
head and handle. Traditionally handle were made of wood fixed through a hole
in the head; this allowed the handle to be easily replaced if required. Modern
hammers use modern materials and the handles are often built into the head -
often with a form of built-in shock absorber to make them easier to use.

Claw Hammer:
 The most popular hammer for general work, available with a wooden (often
hickory), glass-fibre or steel handle; with or without rubber grip.The most
popular weights are 455-680g (16 to 24oz). The claw is normally curved, and
incorporates a 'V' cut-out to draw nails from timber. The claw can be used to
lever up floorboards or where other places where a lever is required; care must
be taken (especially with cheaper models) as the force applied can easily
weaken the joint between the handle and the head.

Ball pain:
Normally used by engineers, the pein in this case, is rounded and is usually used
for shaping metal and closing rivets. Ball pein hammers are available from 55 -
1100 (4 oz up to 2 lb.), 110 - 165g (8oz 12oz) are the most suitable for general
use. Handles are normally wood, usually Ash or Hickory.

Cross and straight pein:

Again, mainly used for shaping metal, the pein can be at right angles to the
handle or parallel with it. The most useful domestically is the cross pein, where
the pein can be used for starting panel pins and tacks. Handles are normally
wood, usually Ash.

Cross Pein Pin Hammer :

A lighter version of the Cross and Straight Pein hammer, ideal for light joinery
and cabinet work. Weight 55g (4oz).

Club hammer:

Sometimes called a Lump hammer, it has a double faced head, and is useful for
light demolition work, driving steel chisels and masonry nails. As debris is
likely to fly, the wearing of safety glasses and working gloves is recommended.
Weight 1135g (2 1/2 lb) being best suited to domestic work. Handles are
normally wood, usually Hickory, or synthetic resin
Sledge Hammer 

Used for the heavier jobs, such as driving in stakes or to break up concrete,
stone or masonry. For lighter jobs just the weight of the head may be used for
blow, but for heavier work, the hammer is swung like an axe. Wear suitable
protective clothing, including safety glasses. Weights 7, 10 and 14 lb

Joiner's Mallet:

Used to drive chisels or to tap wood joints together where a metal-faced

hammer would cause damage or bruising Note that the head is slightly tapered
to ensure correct contact with the work. Both the handle and head are wood,
usually Beech or Lignum Vitae.
Soft-faced Hammers:

Various types are available, with hard and soft rubber, plastic or copper faces.
Some come with a choice of faces which are interchangeable .Useful for
striking materials such as chrome wing outs, where a steel face would cause
damage .In some cases, can replace a mallet for cabinet work.

Special Hammers:

From here on, there are specialist hammers developed to meet the needs of
various trades. These include a Brick Hammer for striking a bolster or splitting
bricks; Woodcarving Mallet, with rounded body; Veneer Hammer, for pressing
and tapping veneers into place; Upholsterer's hammer for driving tacks and nails
in confined spaces, and Sprig Hammer, used by picture frame makers.
Power Hammers: 

More often referred to as 'powered nailers', these take the hard work out of
fitting nails, staples etc. They are ideal where a large number of nails need to be
fitted, such as fixing floorboards. They range from light duty (for use when
fixing edge mouldings, picture frames etc) to heavy duty nailers, used to fix
floorboards and garden decking etc.