EYE CREAM WITH FERMENTED ACTIVE

Oleh :

1. Kenny Nurmalia Brilliani 114118520

2. Chintia Yoseph 114118530

MAGISTER ILMU FARMASI

MINAT INDUSTRI
UNIVERSITAS SURBAYA
2020
I. INTRODUCTION
Asian cosmetics companies discovered that fermentation ingredients derived
from plants are good for skin. They were the first to create fermented skincare and
cosmetic products. They do without preservatives because they would destroy the
microbes essential to the fermentation. Instead harmful bacteria that could cause acne
or skin blemishes and impair the shelf-life of the product are separated by the natural
ingredients. Thanks to the separation of the bacteria, cosmetic products containing
fermentative ingredients are extremely non-perishable. And that is only one of many
benefits. Fermentative ingredients are gifted specialists. Curative herbs, nuts, fruits,
and rose petals are combined with special cultures and fermented to achieve a super-
concentration of natural components with ultimate performance. Fermentation
ingredients are not a short-lived fashion in cosmetics; they are a major step in beauty.
In cosmetic products they are especially favourable for persons with dry skin.
Because of the acids they are great moisturizers. Precious amino acids (e.g. glycine)
firm and invigorate the skin already at the first signs of aging. Glycine stimulates
skin’s natural cell renewal and boosts collagen production. It is an antioxidant that
protects skin from harmful UV-rays and reduces dangerous free radicals. Beauty
products with fermentation ingredients can help to bleach dark spots and
hyperpigmentation and brighten the skin tone evenly all over the face.
Polyglutamic acid, built in the production of fermented soybeans, and fermented
yeast extract are two highly effective fermentation ingredients. They accelerate cell
renewal and boost cell growth; to summarize, they support skin regeneration.
Fermentative ingredients represent a really innovative anti-aging formula increasing
skin’s energy level and helping in the cellular repair process. The result is an
excellently smooth and supple complexion.
A study proved that the antioxidative properties of fermented soy extract are
superior to the non-fermented version. The anti-aging effect of fermented red ginseng
in a test outdid that of the non-fermented substance. The demonstrations of the
advantages of fermentative ingredients are impressive.

Indeed, fermenting natural ingredients gives them new properties:

– the fermentation process maintains the integrity of the ingredients. Most
unfermented cosmetics are made by heating a mixed formula of ingredients to a high
temperature, then cooling it, which can potentially reduce the effectiveness of the
active ingredients,
– a fermented ingredient has a more acidic pH, which has a better affinity with the
skin (with its naturally acidic pH),
– the fermentation process transforms the ingredients: during the fermentation, the
ferments break down their molecular structure. The fermented ingredients have
smaller molecules, which allows them to penetrate the skin more deeply and quickly,
– the fermentation adds nutrients such as amino acids and peptides to the ingredient
and makes the fermented ingredient richer in antioxidants than its unfermented
version,
– the fermented ingredients also have anti-inflammatory properties. Thanks to the
fermentation process, they become rich in enzymes, which are able to soothe and
prevent skin inflammation. Basically, the enzymes eliminate the “bad bacteria” the
skin may contain and replace them with “good bacteria”, this in turn helps to preserve
the skin balance.
The use of both types of ingredients, ferments and fermented ingredients has a lot
of advantages for the skin because they don’t “work” on the same level. The ferments
have an action on the microbial flora of the skin (which is on the surface, in the
protective layer of the epidermis) and the fermented ingredients penetrate into the
deeper layers of the epidermis and promoting its natural renewal.
II. EXAMPLES EYE CREAM THAT USE FERMENTED INGRIDIENTS
Table 1. Examples Eye Cream that use Fermented Ingridients in Market Place
Swanicoco Fermentation Care eye cream
powerful eye cream with eight natural
proprietary peptides plus adenosine to
effectively lift, firm and plump up fine
lines and wrinkles around the eye area,
along with niacinamide to erase dark
circles.
Despite its concentrated formula, the
cream has a fast-absorbing lightweight
texture, making it perfect for day (use it
as a base for makeup!) or nighttime use.
The formula is free of artificial fragrances
and colors, parabens, sulfates, animal
products, alcohol, mineral oil and
silicone.
Price: $38.00
0.7 fl.oz / 20 ml
Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract,
Aspergillus/Rice Ferment Filtrate,
Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Glycerin,
Dicaprylyl carbonate, Niacinamide, 1,2-
Hexanediol, Lactobacillus/Lemon Peel
Ferment Extract, Citrus Aurantium
Dulcis (Orange) Peel Extract, sh-
Polypeptide-11, sh-Oligopeptide-2,
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hexapeptide-12,
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate , Cetearyl
Olivate, Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate,
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper
Tripeptide-1, Sorbitan Laurate,
Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl
Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Ginsenosides,
Colloidal Platinum, Hydrolyzed
Collagen, Punica Granatum Fruit
Extract, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract,
Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Ginkgo
Biloba Nut Extract, Arnica Montana
Flower Extract, Artemisia Absinthium
Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract,
Gentiana Lutea Root Extract,
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria)
Flower Extract, Polyglutamic Acid,
Ascorbyl Glucoside, Grifola Frondosa
Fruiting Body Extract, Maltodextrin,
Magnolia Kobus Bark Extract,
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid,
Biosaccharide Gum-1, Dipeptide
Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide
Diacetate, Beta-Glucan, Camellia
Japonica Seed Oil, Tocopherol,
Carbomer, Allantoin, Arginine,
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil,
Boswellia Carterii Oil, Citrus Aurantium
Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Nobilis
(Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Adenosine
Fermentation Peptine Eye Care Cream
(Peptide Eye Cream) 1.01 Fl. Oz., 30ml
(Jar type)
Contains 8 types of peptide: It improves skin
elasticity and strengthen skin barrier.
- Anti-wrinkle/Whitening difunctional
cosmetics: Adenosine, an anti-wrinkle
functional ingredient, and niacinamide, a
whitening functional ingredient, present
beautiful and elastic skin
Price: $52.00
 (1.01 oz / 30ml)
Aspergillus/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Ginseng
Callus Culture Extract, rh-Oligopeptide-1,
Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1, sh-Octapeptide-4,
Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl
hexapeptide-22, Butylene Glycol,
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dictyopteris
Polypodioides Extract, Stearic Acid,
Niacinamide, Saccharomyces/Viscum
Album (Mistletoe) Ferment Extract,
Saccharomyces/Imperata Cylindrica Root
Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean
Ferment Extract, Ceramide EOP, Glycerin,
1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 60,
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride,
Saccharomyces/Asparagus
Cochinchinensis Root/Lycium Chinense
Root/Ophiopogon Japonicus Root/Panax
Ginseng Root/Poria Cocos/Rehmannia
Glutinosa Root Ferment Filtrate, Allantoin,
Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Arginine,
Centella Asiatica Extract, Magnolia Kobus
Bark Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root
Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root
Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract,
Ruta graveolens Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra
(Licorice) Root Extract, Adenosine,
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf
Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria)
Leaf Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit)
Fruit Extract, and Thujopsis Dolabrata
Branch Extract
Purebess
Galactomyces 80 Eye Cream
Missha, Geum Sul Vitalizing Eye Cream,
30 ml
Premium oriental medicine eye cream treats hydrogenated vegetable oil, macadamia
fine wrinkles and dullness around the eye
area for youthful-looking skin
dual function wrinkle care & brightening.
1. Wrinkle Care: Fermented ginseng water
and other wrinkle-fighting ingredients treat
deep wrinkles to create healthier, revitalized ginseng callus culture extract, zingiber
skin.
2. Brightening Care: Wild Ginseng, Deer
Antler, and Reishi Mushroom extracts and
other brightening ingredients help to brighten oil, honey extract, coptis japonica root
dark areas around the eyes.
3. Firming Care: Fermented Phellinus
Linteus and Ginseng extract help improve
skin's elasticity creating firmer skin
Key Ingredients
Galactomyces ferment filtrate, Glycerin,
Polyglyceryl-3-Methylglucose Distearate,
Canola Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetearyl
alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl
Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Beadwax,
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone,
Plantain herb Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf
Extract, Salix Alba (Willow), Bark Extract,
Ulmus Campestris (Elm) Extract,
Equisetum Giganteum Extract (Elm),
Lemon Extract, Sodium Hyaluronatem,
Adenosin, Carbomer, Arginine,
Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract,
Pawqueflower Extract, Usnea Extract,
Disodium EDTA.
Panax ginseng root water, panax ginseng
root extract, glycerin, butylene glycol,
alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl
ethylhexanoate, velvet extract, butylene
glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, hydrogenated
polydecene, propanediol, butyrospermum
parkii (shea) butter, ganoderma lucidum
(mushroom) extract, stearic acid, palmitic
acid, cetearyl olivate, behenyl alcohol,
ternifolia seed oil, glyceryl stearate,
dipentaerythrityl
hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosi
nate, water, panthenol, phellinus baumii
mycelium/panax ginseng root ferment
extract filtrate, sorbitan olivate, gold, panax
officinale (ginger) root extract, poria cocos
extract, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root
extract, triticum vulgare (wheat) flour
extract, sesamum indicum (sesame) seed
extract, sh-octapeptide-4, hydrolyzed
hyaluronic acid, theobroma cacao (cocoa)
extract, oil soluble licorice(glycyrrhiza)
extract, dextrin, citric acid, dimethicone,
glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer,
beeswax, polyacrylate-13, tocopheryl
acetate, polyisobutene, arginine,
 Ginseng Water - Improves overall polysorbate 20, sorbitan isostearate, mica
skin health. (ci 77019), titanium dioxide (ci 77891),
adenosine, myristic acid, pantolactone,
 25% Wild Ginseng, Deer Antler, and disodium edta, phenoxyethanol,
Reishi Mushroom Extract Content - chlorphenesin, caprylyl glycol,
Revitalizes skin. ethylhexylglycerin, ci 77491, fragrance
 Phellinus Linteus and Ginseng
Extract - Increases elasticity to delicate
eye area.
 Ardisia Crenata Extract - Protects
skin, prevents further damage
Price: Rp.551,136
TONY MOLY-Timeless Ferment
Snail Eye Cream (30 ml)
Enriched with 80% Gold Fermented
Snail Mucus, this lightweight yet
deeply nourishing eye cream sinks
deep into the skin to provide long-
lasting hydration and youthful
resilience with a non-tacky finish so
the delicate skin around the eyes feels
comfortably moisturized and firm
without feeling heavy or irritated.
KEY INGREDIENTS
1. Gold Fermented Snail
2. Extract: Allantoin – Soothes tired
skin.
3.Glycolic Acid – Brightens
hyperpigmentation and evens out skin
tone.
4.Collagen and Elastin – Improves
skin elasticity.
Price: $59.50
LOREAL- FERMENT EYE
ESSENCEYOUTH CODE
Snail Secretion Filtrate, Butylene
Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide,
Cyclopentasiloxane, PVP
Cyclohexasiloxane "Sodium
Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl
Taurate Co polymer", Isohexadecane,
Water, Carbomer, Tromethamine,
Polysorbate 80, Phenoxyethanol,
Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexylglycerin,
Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol,
Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water,
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract,
Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Opuntia
Ficus-Indica Extract, Coptis Japonica
Root Extract, Citrus Medica
Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil,
Propanediol Citrus Aurantium
Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, PEG-
8 Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange)
peel oil, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime)
Oil, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Oil,
Centella Asiatica Extract, Eucalyptus
Globulus Leaf Oil, Carica papaya
(papaya) fruit Extract, Aloe
Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Beta-Glucan,
Potassium sorbate, Sodium Benzoat.
AQUA / WATER, DIPROPYLENE
GLYCOL, BIFIDA FERMENT
LYSATE, ALCOHOL, GLYCERIN,
BIS-PEG-18 METHYL ETHER
DIMETHYL SILANE, VINYL
DIMETHICONE/METHICONE
SILSESQUIOXANE
CROSSPOLYMER,
PEG/PPG/POLYBUTYLENE GLYCOL-
8/5/3 GLYCERIN,
HYDROXYETHYLPIPERAZINE
ETHANE SULFONIC ACID, PPG-3
MYRISTYL ETHER, PEG-32,
STEARETH-20, PAPAIN,
CARBOMER, TRIETHANOLAMINE,
DIMETdICONE, DIMETHICONE

Lighten dark circle, Depuff eyebags, Fade
fine lines
Immediately, eye contour skin looks
moisturized, smooth and silky. Day after
Day, eye bags look relieved and dark
circles are less visible. Eye contour feels
firms and looks younger.
CROSSPOLYMER, CAFFEINE,
SODIUM HYALURONATE, SODIUM
POLYACRYLATE, SALICYLOYL
PHYTOSPHINGOSINE, PALMITOYL
OLIGOPEPTIDE, PALMITOYL
TETRAPEPTIDE-7, ALUMINUM
STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE,
ANANAS SATIVUS FRUIT EXTRACT
/ PINEAPPLE FRUIT EXTRACT,
ADENOSINE, AMMONIUM
POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL
TAURATE, PROPANEDIOL,
CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, XANTHAN
GUM, T-BUTYL ALCOHOL, N-
HYDROXYSUCCINIMIDE, CHRYSIN,
BHT, POTASSIUM SORBATE,
SODIUM BENZOATE,
PHENOXYETHANOL,
CHLORHEXIDINE DIGLUCONATE,
CI 14700 / RED 4, CI 19140 / YELLOW
5

III. MECHANISM OF FERMENTED INGRIDIENTS

Radiance:
Issued from Kombucha-fermented black tea, KOMBUCHKA PHTM has an
antiglycation activity that helps to restore a fresh and youthful complexion.
Furthermore, it enhances skin smoothness, radiance and colour while reducing skin
roughness. KOMBUCHKAPHTM can be considered as a plant-based probiotic
active.

 Energizing:
CHRONODYN™ is a biotechnological extract of a unicellular pseudo-algae, which is
a source of cell vitality and energy adapted to the circadian
rhythm. CHRONODYN™triggers the cell metabolism enhancing the skin tone and
firmness. Furthermore, acting as a chronobiological cell
energizer, CHRONODYN™ fights against the signs of fatigue supplying skin cells
with the required energy.
Wrinkle filler:
Answering the consumer demand for faithful and “better” ageing, OPTIM
HYALTMstimulates the neosynthesis of the skin`s own hyaluronic acid and helps to
deliver optimal moisturising and viscoelastic properties by sustaining its turnover.
Furthermore, OPTIM HYALTM increases the synthesis of elastin and smoothes the
skin`s microrelief by reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
Body beautifier:
HYDRONESIS® is a obtained from biofermentation of a microorganism specific to
the pink salt lake in the Alicante region in Spain. This salt lake is commonly known
as a natural spa with similar health benefits and beauty properties as the Dead
sea. HYDRONESIS® empowers the natural processes of skin renewal to smooth the
skin microrelief and reduce the transepidermal water loss in order to erase disgraceful
keratosis pilaris (chicken skin) and post-waxing redness, making the skin incredibly
soft and attractive.