Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine

A single needle lock stitch machine is called a plain needle sewing machine. A single needle lock

stitch machine is mostly used as an industrial sewing machine. Modern single needle lockstitch has a
thread trimmer which operates at the highest speed of its kind. Lockstitch machine is the most
commonly used sewing machine in the apparel industry, especially in woven garments. Here in this
article, I am going to share Features of Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine with you for a clear
understanding of a single needle lock stitch sewing machine.
There are two types of lock stitch sewing machine used in a garments factory.
1. Single needle lockstitch machine
2. Double(two) needle lockstitch machine
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine
A single needle lock stitch machine is stitch by one needle of a machine by lock stitch.
Double-Needle Lock Stitch Machine
Double-needle /twin/two needles is a needle with a single shank and two shafts, proceed stitching
with the double stitching you will get two parallel rows on the face of the fabric and a zig-zag stitch
on the back of the fabric.

Features of Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine

1. Two thread need for a machine, one for needle and another one for bobbin
2. Needle thread set in the upper side of fabric and bobbin thread set in the lower side of the
fabric in stitch
3. Stitching type only lock stitch
4. Machine speed is 4000-5000 RPM
5. 1 needle in every machine
6. Edge cutting, automatic bobbin winding
7. Less noise, low vibration, no radiation, and environment-friendly
 8. SPI generally 7-9
9. Sewing Shirts, Jackets, Suits, Over-coats, Bed covers, Curtains, Children’s Clothes, Bags,
Leather, Wool, Chemical fiber, and Canvas.
Overlock Sewing Machine
The overlock machine is different from the lockstitch sewing machine, cut the edge of fabrics, and
cover two parts of fabrics by stitching. Overlock machine has different types of specifications, from
2/3 to 6 threads that e used. Here in this article, we will have a tail discussion of Overlock Sewing
Machine Types, Specifications, and Technical Adjustment.

Types of Overlock Sewing Machine

An overlock / over edge machine is a high-speed sewing machine. This is the quickest performing
machine for giving overedge stitches. Overlock Machines Are available in following Specifications
1. Thread Overlock machine
2. Thread Overlock Machine
3. Thread Overlock Machine
4. Thread Overlock Machine
5. Thread Overlock Machine

Features of Overlock Sewing Machine

1. Maximum Machine speed 6500 SPM (vary operation wise)
2. Stitch can be made using 2,3,4,5 or 6 threads, depending on the no. of needles and looper
3. Stitch length 2 to 4 mm
4. Stitching type- Overlock stitch
5. The used feed is Deferential feed
6. Oil lubrication system- Automatic
7. Used in Woven, knit; all types of garments

Double needle lockstitch machine

A double needle lockstitch machine works on the same principle as the SNLS machine while using
two needles and two bobbins thus resulting in two parallel rows of lockstitch.
The distance between the two stitch lines depends upon the distance between the two needles on the
needle bar which can be adjusted.
When the stitch forms correctly equal amounts of bobbin and needle thread are used. Upper and lower
threads interlock in the centre of the fabric
It is a poor choice in areas that must stretch, it has the least amount of elongation potential.
hence inappropriate to attach elastic or to sow knit fabrics or bias seams.

Characteristics
1. 2-needle, Bottom-feed, Lockstitch Machine with an automatic thread trimmer<br />
2. Low noise
3. fast speed
4. steady and enduring especially when sewing underwear, jeans, coat's turning and decorative
parts.
5. Synchronized feed of the needle bar and feed dog to avoid distraction.
6. Adopt inside oil line box to realize cycling oil supply
7. Double needle bar discrete design, easy for sewing turning , acute angle and direct stitch.
Applications
1. Sew box pockets on safari jackets, light jeans and pyjamas
2. Topstitch front collar edges of safari jackets etc
3. Sew pockets on coats
4. Sew skirt box pleats
5. Topstitch the collars of ladies’ wear
6. Topstitch the cuffs of ladies’ wear
7. Suitable for sewing Shirts, Uniforms, Jeans and Women
Underwear
8. The double needle lockstitch is the tightest and most secure
stitch which makes it a good choice for stitching the inseam of trousers

Button hole sewing machine is used to make hole of button of a apparel. Various types of button hole
is formed by the button hole machine. Apparel may contain one or more button hole. The style of hole
depends on the button. The entire button has not same shape.
So, it is important to use correct button hole sewing machine for making the button hole.
Features
1. The features of button hole sewing machine are given below.
2. A button hole sewing machine is a straight or shaped slit cut.
3. The material is cut either before or after the sewing machine.
4. The button hole is cut before sewing on non fray fabrics.
5. Sewing is performed before cutting tendency to fray.
6. Adjustments to the control cam and the gear drive afterthe stitch density and button
7. hole length.
 8. Buttons with 2 holes, 4 holes or shanks can be sewn on the same machine.
9. Buttons can be placed manually or by a magazine.
10. Generally the needle has a vertical movement only.
11. Button is moved from side to side by the button clamp.
12. Machine has a number of stitches. i.e. 16, 24 or 32 are adjusted.
13. Button can be sewn using lock stitch or chain stitch.
so, if you want to sew button, you have to use button sewing machine.
Uses:
In the following cases, button hole machine is used.
1. Straight hole are mainly used for shirts and blouses.
2. Eyed holes are for trousers, coats and jackets.
3. Button holes used lock stitch or chain stitch.
So, button hole machine is important for button hole sewing.

Bar tacking sewing machine is important one in apparel manufacturing. It is used to form lock stitch.
Features
The features of bar tacking machine are given below.
1. Bar tacking machine provides forward and backward stitching in short length (about 6 cm)
and sew a dense tack.
2. Bar tacks containing 18 to 72 stitches, has option to change stitch density.
3. Bar tacking machine based on lock stitches.
Uses
The uses of bartacking machine in ap-
parel sewing are given below.
1. Bar tacking sewing machine is used to secure pocket corners, belt loops, the open
end ofa button hole, zipper flies.
2. Bar tacking machine is also used for small decorative tacks and shapes.
Button sewing machine is used for garment sewing because huge amount of apparel is made here.
Button can be sewing by hand but it is used for bespoke garment making. Button sewing machine is
used to sew the button to adjust with the apparel. Generally lockstitch or chain stitch is used to sew
the button.
Features
The features of a button sewing machine are given below.
1. Buttons with 2 holes, 4 holes or shanks can be sewn on the same machine.
2. Buttons can be placed manually or by a magazine.
3. Generally the needle has a vertical movement only.
4. Button is moved from side to side by the button clamp.
5. Machine has a number of stitches. i.e. 16, 24 or 32 are adjusted.
6. Button can be sewn using lock stitch or chain stitch.
So, if you want to sew button, you have to use button sewing machine.

Blind stitch sewing machine

The blind stitch sewing machine is special types of sewing machine which is used for special
purposes.
Features
The features of a blind stitch sewing machine are given below.
1. The blind stitch means the stitch is not visible on fabric.
2. Blind stitch is formed based on chain stitch (1 thread) and lock stitch (2 threads).
3. The hem and facings are folded back and caught by the needle (at even intervals).
4. In this machine, curved needle is used which penetrate straightly in the fabric.
5. Sewing speed of blind stitch machine is up to 3000 stitch/min.
So, that's all about the blind stitch sewing machine.
 1. Oxford Button-Down Shirt
Created by John Brooks in 1896, the Oxford button-down was an instant classic. Characterized by the
thicker fabric and button-down collar, this shirt is a casual take on the traditional dress style. It’s
perfect for many events, whether it be at a wedding or the office. Opt for lighter colors for a
professional setting and darker shades for a casual event.
2. Dress Shirt
Elegant and simplistic, the dress shirt is exactly what you need when you’re aiming to impress. It is
typically thicker than a regular shirt, with a pointed, wing or cutaway collar and double cuffs. The
dress shirt looks best with a tuxedo or three-piece suit, complete with a bow tie and cufflinks. It is
often seen at black or white tie events or on James Bond himself.
3. Cuban Collar Shirt
Get out your finest cigars and soak up the sun in a Cuban collar shirt. With short sleeves and an open
collar, these shirts are an essential summer staple that makes you look and feel cool. Don’t be fooled,
this shirt doesn’t have to make you appear like you’re on holiday with the kids; you can look cool as a
cucumber with the right styling. With an array of colors and designs to choose from, you can keep it
casual or beachy keen, no matter what your mood is. It is best for laid back events such as a festival or
an afternoon at the pub; show a bit of chest and look slick all at once.
4. Overshirt
For the in-between seasons where it’s too cold for a T-shirt alone but too warm for a coat, the
overshirt comes into play. It is versatile and typically worn over the top of another shirt, whether it be
a T-shirt or a button-down. The beauty of the overshirt is its simplicity; opt for a plain T-shirt
underneath paired with a block-colored?.b overshirt. Blues and grey are great for a night out, whereas
neutral shades are best suited for day time activities.
5. Flannel Shirt
Stay warm and stylish with a flannel shirt. Often seen on those who live in cold climates, the flannel
shirt is made of thick, soft fabric and traditionally comes in a checked pattern. For those days where
you need to keep warm, flannel is your best choice. Pair it with a T-shirt and jeans, and you’ll be the
coolest guy in the room.
6. Office Shirt
Roll up your sleeves and get to work while looking effortlessly smart. The office shirt is an ideal
choice for those who work in a desk job; think business casual. Colors such as whites and pale blues
are an excellent option for the workplace. Opt for textures such as oxfords and herringbones for a
more casual appearance without having to don a tie.
7. Chambray
Chambray shirts are one of the most versatile items to have in your wardrobe. Unlike denim, it is
woven in a light fabric and plain-weave construction, creating a casual and comfortable piece of
clothing. These shirts are perfect for any laidback or smart casual event. Keep it relaxed by pairing it
with jeans or chinos. If you need to smarten the look up, you can rock the chambray with a blazer; the
possibilities are endless.
8. Classic Short Sleeve Shirt
Roll up your sleeves with style in a classic short sleeve shirt. Similar to the traditional button-down,
this shirt style has an open and pointed collar. It is a stylish option for a casual day at the beach or a
cafe. Available in a massive range of colors and patterns, you can choose to style it any way you like.
These shirts look great without a tie and with a pair of jeans, chinos or shorts.
9. Poet Shirts- these do not inspire inspiration but they come with frills on the front and bishop
sleeves. Usually, they are made from natural fabrics and velvet.

10. Baseball Shirts-- opens with buttons and has a simple look, usually with a team name or logo.
There is no collar and it buttons up usually

11. Guayabera- This is a men’s summer shirt and its best feature is the two vertical seams sewn
on the front. Lots of buttons help embellish the fabric. You will find these in warmer climates
 Finishing
Sanding
Mechanical abrading is used whereby the fabric is passed, dry, over a series of rollers covered with
emery paper which rub and break the fibres to produce a soft weathered effect. Also known as
emerised, sueded (for heavier fabric types) or peau de peche (suede-like fabrics are not achieved in
this way). The process removes shine and softens the handle and color.

Washing
Sand-washing, like stone-washing uses the abrasive power of mineral particles in the wash. Being
finer, it is generally applied to silk and viscose fabrics and has a similar effect to using sandpaper.

Mercerizing
Mercerizing is a shrinkage process which involves passing fabric through a cold solution of 15-20%
sodium carbonate, causing the flat ribbon-like cotton fibres to swell in cross-section and contract in
length, making it much more lustrous. The process increases strength by as much as 20% and makes
the fibres more receptive to dyes.

Coating
The earliest ‘performance’ fabrics were wovens coated with natural oils or wax to keep out water.
Increasingly, though, with the benefits of petrochemical technology, the base fabric is used only to act
as a stable ground for a layer of plastic. Many of what are called coated fabrics are little more than the
coated layer itself. These fabrics are often finished by ‘embossing’ to give animal skin effects, created
much like pile embossing. Polyurethane and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are the most common
materials. Companies are reluctant to divulge details of the different chemical treatments that create
high gloss, matt or metallic finishes.

Glazing
Starch, shellac or glue can be applied to the surface of a fabric to give a glazed or polished
appearance. The surface is then ironed under pressure. The finish allows resistance to dirt penetration
and is often applied to cotton fabrics making them stiff and shiny.

Burn-Out
The fabric is made from two fibres, for example polyester and cotton. A pattern effect is achieved by
using a screen to force through chemicals which burn away one of the fibres, leaving sheer and
opaque areas.
Anti-Bacterial
Fabrics can acquire a self-sterilizing quality by applying an antiseptic finish. The fabric remains
unaffected by perspiration and can be washed or dry cleaned.
Lastly, we can say that there are many more finishes possible which come and go with the vagaries of
fashion; this is not a definitive list.

Wrinkle Resistance
Fabrics made from cotton, rayon, and linen wrinkle easily and will also retain these wrinkles. Cotton
and cotton-blend fabrics particularly will often have wrinkle-resistance finishes applied to lessen the
need for ironing. These finishes date back to 1929 when cotton fabrics were treated with a chemical
compound of urea and formaldehyde to form a polymer resin inside the fiber. The chemical treatment
stiffened the fabric, making it "crease resistant."

Soil and Stain Resistance

Soiling can be inhibited by preventing its deposition on the fabric or by facilitating its removal. The
range of finishes that includes the patented Scotchgard are examples of the first category. The most
effective ones contain fluoropolymers and work similarly to the finish on stick-resistant cookware in
repelling stains and soils. The surface energy of the fluoropolymer finish is so much lower than that of
liquids that may spill on the fabric that both water-borne and oily soils bead up and do not penetrate
into the fibers. These stain- and soil-resistant finishes also provide a degree of water repellency to the
treated fabrics. Another general class of stain-resistant finishes is based on silicones. Silicone finishes
resist water-borne stains but do not repel oily liquids.

Absorbency finish :
Although the cellulose fibers like cotton, linen and rayon have good absorbency, sometimes it is
desired that they should be more absorbent. Appropriate application of ammonium compounds
modifies the cellulose to become more absorbent, providing greater comfort and usefulness for such
uses as undergarments and towels.

Calendering :
Calendering is essentially an ironing process that adds sheen to the fabric. The method varies
according to the type of finish desired. Calenders are heavy machines made up of at least two rolls.
One is usually of chilled steel; the other, a softer material like wood, paper, cotton fiber, corn husks or
combinations of cotton and corn husk. The rolls are supported in vertical frames. Plain rolling
calenders may have as many as seven rolls, four steel rolls and three horn husk or cotton rolls. The
steel rolls may be equipped to be heated by gas or steam. The textile material is passed through the
calendering machine rapidly between the gap formed by the rollers. This is done at an average rate of
150 yards (135m) per minute, and under pressure of 40 to 60 tons (550-827 MPa); the goods are then
wound up on the back of the machine.
Bleaching :
If the cloth is to be finished as white or to be given surface ornamentation, all natural colours must be
removed by bleaching. This is also necessary if discoloration or stains have occurred during the
previous manufacturing process. Bleaching can be done in the yarn stage as well as in the constructed
fabric. Suitable bleaching agents are used to remove the colour from the fabric namely oxidizing or
reducing bleaches. Bleaching is done for the cotton, woolen and silk. Man-made fabrics do not need
bleaching, as they are naturally white. The kind of chemical to be used depends upon the kind of
textile fiber of which the fabrics is composed.