FABRIC

FUNDAMENTALS
Jury assignment
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 1.
Garment dyeing
Let’s start with the first topic chosen.
 What is garment dyeing?
It is the process of coloring completely made clothing item like shirts, t-shirts , coats, tops, pullovers , dresses,
bottoms etc. In Conventional method, Garments are made with pre-colored fabrics and cutting and sewing
is done afterwards.

Presently Grey Fabric (also knows as greige fabric which is an unfinished fabric that hasn’t been bleached
or dyed) are dyed in required colour after manufactured. It has gotten famous lately because of cost
saving and design patterns.

How it evolved and when?

Until the mid-1970s, the process was seldom used for
commercial clothing production. It was used domestically
to overdye aged, worn and fading garments, as well as
to resellers of used or surplus military uniforms. The first
major industrial use of this technique was made by
Benetton, which dyed its Shetland wool knitwear.
What are the types of garment dye?
Below mentioned are few of the most used Garment Dyes in Fashion Industry
• Reactive dye
• Direct dye
• Sulphar dye
• Pigment dye
• Dischargable dye etc.

REACTIVE DYE – This is the only form of

dye with a reactive group to form covalent bonds
with fiber. This group reacts chemically with the
fiber polymer molecules.

Reactive dyes are most widely used to dye

cellulose, such as cotton or flax, but reactive dyes
often dye wool. The most important approach for
the coloration of cellulosic fibres is reactive
dyeing.
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 DIRECT DYE PIGMENT DYE SULPHUR DYE DISCHARGABLE
Direct dye is mostly Pigment dyeing is an These dyes are
DYE
used because it reacts electrical process used mainly
Discharging is the
directly with the fiber whereby an electrical for dyeing textile
process of
and it can be done on charge is given to the cellulosic materials or
removing dye with
both hot and cool items to be dyed blends of cellulosic
various chemicals or
process. Wash fastness opposite to that of the fibers with synthetic
bleach, often in pleasing
of those color is less pigment. The opposite fibers such as acrylic
patterns or designs
which is why washing is electrical charges attract fibers, nylons, and
through Shibori or
done after dyeing. each other when the polyesters.
Tie Dye methods, or by
pigment is added to the
stamping, stenciling or
These are usually cheap Sulphur dyes are so
block printing.
and easily applied, The pigment sticks on the called as they all
and can yield bright fabric creating bright contain Sulphur linkage
It is widely used in
colours. shades. within their molecules.
present times.

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 garment dyeing techniques
• Tie dying - A hand method of producing patterns in textiles by tying portions of the fabric or yarn so
that they will not absorb the dye.

• Dip Dying - dip dyeing fabric involves submerging your fabric into a bucket or vat of dye to make it a
different color.

• Spray dyeing - spraying the outer surfaces of the fabric with a dye, and exposing the fabric to
atmospheric steam to chemically react and affix the dye to the fabric.

• Over dyeing - Overdyeing is a process where the fabric is either dyed for too long or dyed a second
time. It is most often used on denim to add an overtone of color to the indigo.

• Cold dyeing - The garments are dyed as ready-made goods in a cold process at room temperature
without heating.

• Reverse dyeing- reverse dyeing involves removing the color that is already in the shirt. It’s a simple way
to add specific designs and shapes to your colored tee.
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 Cold Dyeing

Reverse Dyeing

Dip Dyeing

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 GARMENT DYEING MACHINERIES
A machine that gently move the goods
using paddle similar to a paddle wheel on
a boat. This is a slow process, but there is
extremely little abrasion on the goods.
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A machine that dyes by rotating the garment
with periodic reversal in a stainless steel box
holding dye liquor. It consist of horizontal
perforated cylinder, radially partitioned into
three or four compartments
 Quality control
Price of finished garment chiefly depends upon three factors
• history of the fabric turned into garment
• technical inputs
• use of appropriate processing machineries
which means quality is a major aspect affecting the price. The major areas for quality control of
garment are as follows.

• These areas must be reasonably loose and seams should not be tautly prepared, otherwise this
can result in poor dye pentration in highly swelling fibres.

• High temperatures can be used to help facilitate liquid movement in the diffusion, penetration
and running of fabric. For multi layered seams or elasticized waists, this is important.

• Normally, before cooling for fixation, a temperature of 95 degree celcius is maintained.

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• excessive or uneven shrinkage of garment where knitted or woven fabrics are mixed contributes to
seam puckering.
• It is essential to pre relax knitted fabric and at the same time preshrink woven part which is done by
various shrink proof treatments for high quality garments.

• Due to mechanical stress in dyeing machine, these are defects developed especially on delicate clothing
which degrade the final product.
• In the presence of non-foaming lubricant, garments prone to chafe marks or pilling effect should be
turned inside out and dyed. 02
• overloading of dyeing drum can also be avoided.

• selection of accessories such as buttons, zips etc should be done to prevent their corrosion or breakage.
• ferrous metals are avoided and preference is made for nickel and its alloy
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Sewing threads must have desirable properties, such as strength and fineness, to produce a neat seam
and last for the entire life of the product.
The choice of fiber for thread preparation depends on the type of fabric to be sewn. Generally, the
thread used for fabric preparation and sewing is commonly selected so there wont be difference in
absorption of dyes.

• Fastness properties of dyed garments is very essential for customers demand.

• Care labeling should be provided which tells the customers precautions to be adopted while cleaning
the garment.
• These care labels has specific instructions with respect to method of washing, bleaching, drying, ironing
and suitability for dry cleaning.

Through proper fabric and dyestuff selection, the quality level of garment dyeing can be increased
to survive the rigours of processing, proper sizing, good programming of dyeing equipment and
innovations to increase production.
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 Advantages and disadvantages

• Lower expenses.
• High processing costs
• less time required.
• More handling of
• There are fewer shade variations.
materials
• Flexible Size of Batch.
• Special care in the choice
• Old clothes can be redone.
of interline fabric, thread,
• Lower initial investment
accessories etc.
• Lower ratio of liquor
• A higher rate of seconds
• In the same machine, desizing,
in production
scouring, bleaching can be done.
• Intensive Process of Labor
• Able to respond to rapidly changing
• Full check of all pieces
market trends
required
• Fancy effects can be derived from
• Comparatively lower rate of rejection

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 CONCLUSION
While the dyeing of the garment was initiated in those daysas a means of covering the
hue variations in the garments, the process has gone a long way to develop itself as a
viable one. The efforts made to make clothing dyeing through scientific approaches in the
early 1980s, today, have resulted in many takers in this field responding instantly to
consumer demands.

The problems faced by fabric dyeing in terms of operating economy and other cost
factors can be streamlined and minimized in the dyeing of clothes, to a large extent. The
garment dyeing appears to be very attractive at the surface level, but strict conditions
are necessary when making the garments to resolve the problems related to the seams,
closures, interlining and pleated areas.

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 1.
Non wovens
 Fabric development
POLYMERS

FIBERS

YARNS

WOVEN KNITTED BRAIDED NON WOVEN

FABRIC

This table was drawn to understand the position of Non Wovens in Fabric Development.
 What are non wovens?
Non woven is a sheet of natural or man made fibers or filaments, excluding paper, that
have not been converted into yarns and they are bonded in different ways.

Other Names – Shaped Fabric, Yarn Free Fabrics.

BRAIDED WOVEN KNITTED

NON
WOVEN
STRUCTURE
 CHARACTERISTICS OF NON WOVEN FABRICS
‐ Nonwovens have specific characteristics that allow them to deliver high-performance
across a wide range of applications. Specific functions include:

▪ Absorbency ▪ flame retardancy

▪ liquid repellency ▪ wash ability (selective products)
▪ Resilience ▪ Cushioning
▪ stretch ▪ Filtering
▪ Softness ▪ bacterial barrier and sterility
▪ strength

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 Non woven fabric production stages
It is possible to describe the production of nonwovens in three stages, although modern
technology allows certain stages to overlap, and in some cases all three stages can take
place at the same time. There are three phases.

WEB FORMATION WEB BONDING FINISHING TREATMENTS

Nonwoven manufacturing
starts with the arrangement
of a sheet or web of fibres.
There are several ways the
web can be formed. In
mechanical, chemical, and
thermal terms, this can be
done.
The loose cohesion of the
fibers is treated -in one or
more steps- to form a more
solid type of web, the
nonwoven.
The selection of the
bonding technology is
decisive for the features
and the applications of the
nonwoven.
Nonwovens are given one or
more of a variety of finishing
processes as a means of
enhancing fabric
performance or aesthetic
properties.
Generally, finishing of
Nonwoven bonded fabrics
are classified as Dry finishing
and Wet finishing.

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 Types of web formation
• DRYLAID-CARDED - Carding is a mechanical method which starts from fibre bales. These fibres are
opened and mixed, after which they are transmitted to the card. A carding machine, which is a rotating
drum or series of drums covered by card wire, will then combine them into a web.

• SHORT FIBER AIRLAID – Relatively short fibers are fed into the forming head by an air stream and
homogeneous mix of all fibres is guaranteed by the forming head which is deposited on a moving belt
where a randomly oriented web is created.

• WETLAID - A dilute slurry of water and fibers is deposited on a moving wire screen, where the water is
drained and the fibres form a web. The web is dewatered by pressing between rollers and dried.

• SPUNLAID - Polymer granules are extruded into filaments through so called spinnerets. The continuous
filaments are stretched and quenched before being deposited on conveyor belt to form a uniform web.

• MELTBLOWN - The filaments are attenuated by hot air streams, keeping the filaments in a partially
molten state where they hit a belt or conveyor belt where the web is formed.
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This method uses the
thermoplastic properties of
certain
synthetic fibres to form bonds
under controlled heating.
There are several thermal
bonding systems in use:
• Calendering
• Air through
• Drum and blanket
systems
Web bonding
In mechanical bonding, the
reinforcement of the web
is achieved by inter-fibre
friction due to the physical
entanglement of the
fibres. There are two
major types of mechanical
bonding:
• Needle punching
• Hydroentanglement
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Chemical bonding refers to a
liquid-based bonding agent being
added to the web. Three groups of
materials are commonly used as
binders – acrylate polymers and
copolymers, styrene-butadiene
copolymers, and vinyl acetate
ethylene copolymers.
• can be applied uniformly by
impregnating, coating or
spraying or intermittently, as in
print bonding.
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Changing the texture of fabric
Chemical finishing requires
surfaces by physically reorienting Thermal mechanical
adding chemical agents to
or shaping fibres on or near the finishing involves altering
fabric surfaces as coatings
fabric surface requires fabric dimensions or
or impregnating fabrics
mechanical finishing. physical properties with the
with chemical additives or
fillers. use of heat and pressure.
 Finishing types

• Shrinkage • Coloration
• Glazing • Printing
• Crabbing • Anti static finishing
• Calendering • Hygiene finishing
• Pressing • Dust bonding treatment
• Perforating • Absorbent and Repellent finishes
• Slitting (Oil, Static, Water, etc.,)
• Velouring • Softeners

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 Nonwoven in Technical Textiles
Technical Textiles are textile materials manufactured mainly for their technical performance
and functional properties. Nonwovens are the only Technical textiles which offers different
qualities to economical solutions for a wide range of applications.

CAR KITCHEN FURNISHING

Some examples of
Day-to-Day use of Carpets, Roof-liners, Floor Mops. Carpets
Technical Textiles Seat belts, Tyres, Tea Bags Vertical Blinds
Airbags Coffee Filters Wall Coverings

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HOSPITAL
CIVIL ENGINEERING CLOTHING FACTORY
Railway Tracks Soil Shoulder Pads Collar Masks, Gowns, Caps, Dust Collection Filter
Erosion Slope / Cuff Interlinings Bandage, Baby Bags Liquid Filtration
Stabilizations Flyovers Waddings in Jackets Diaper, Sanitary Battery separators
Landfills Napkin
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In medical field, non wovens are used due to their maximized levels of safety and hygiene.
They are used in adhesive plasters, wound pads, and compresses, orthopedic waddings
and stoma products.

Must be absorbent and air permeable , must not stick to the wound and be skin friendly.

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• In horticultural applications, nonwovens shield plants day
and night from extreme temperatures, thereby providing
the basis for earlier harvests with excellent results.

• They are both air and water permeable, UV-stabilized,

and rot-resistant.

• Non-wovens fulfill different functional criteria for the 02

development of upholstered chairs, beds,Ware and
quilted items, and clothing for safety.

• In terms of their textile appearance, they excel in their

airpermeable breathability, and high abrasion
resistance qualities.
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 Advantages and disadvantages

• ventilation
• filtration • the textile cloth ,intensity an
• insulation d durability, poor compared
• water absorbent to other fabrics.
• waterproof
• flexible • Not like other cleaning
• not disheveled clothes
• good hand feeling, soft
• light • fiber in
• flexible, resilient certain direction, so easily
• no cloth direction crack from the right
• low price, can be mass-produced. angle etc.

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 CONCLUSION
▪ Nonwoven fabrics are fabrics that are intended to have a short life. Single-use fabric or
a fabric which is very durable.
▪ Fabrics that are nonwoven include Relevant functions, such as
absorbency, repellency of liquids, resilience, Stretching, softness, power, flame
retardancy, cushioning, washing ability, Filtering, sterility and a bacterial barrier.
▪ Sometimes these properties are combined to produce fabrics that are appropriate for
particular jobs while achieving a strong balance between the use-life of the product and
cost.
▪ Combined with other Materials, they provide variety of goods with different properties
and characteristics.
▪ They are used alone or as clothing components, home furnishings, health care, Treatment,
manufacturing, products for industrial and consumer use.

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Fabric swatches
 : Cotton

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – Black

Weft Ply – 1 ; Colour – White

: Twill Weave

: Vintage Denim Wash, Stretch

Denim, Faded finish.

: Apparels like Jeans Jacket,

footwear, bags, seat covers, mobile cases,
insulation textiles
 : Cotton

Warp Ply – 1 ; Colour – Off White

Weft Ply – 1 ; Colour – Off White

: Plain Weave

: Soft finish

: Clothing, upholstery, curtains,

sewing patterns, photography backdrop,
Cooking, Surgical Procedures.
 : Cotton

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – Off White

Weft Ply – 1 ; Colour – Off White

: Plain Weave

: wash and wear finish, flame

retardant, and peach finishing

: Clothing, upholstery, curtains,

sewing patterns, photography backdrop,
Cooking, Surgical Procedures.
 : Cotton

Warp Ply – 3 ; Colour – Magenta

Weft Ply – 3 ; Colour – Magenta

: Satin Weave

: Singeing, Anti-static, Water and

stain repellency, Calendering

: Clothing, upholstery, curtains,

sewing patterns, photography backdrop,
Cooking, Surgical Procedures.
 : Wool

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – Maroon

Weft Ply – 2 ; Colour – Red

: Twill Weave

: Textured finish, Acid Treatment

: Scottish kilts, bagpipes, scarfs

and other fashion items.
 : Satin

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – Red

Weft Ply – 2 ; Colour – Red

: Satin Weave

: Lustrous Finish, Resin Surface

Glazing.

: women's lingerie, nightgowns,

blouses, evening gowns, boxer shorts, shirts,
neckties, ballet shoes, interior furnishing
fabrics, upholstery, and bed sheets.
 : Cotton

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – White

Weft Ply – 1 ; Colour – White and Red Prints

: Plain Weave

: textured finish

: Pants, overalls, jackets,

uniforms, shirts, dresses, pillows,
upholstery
 : Cotton(65%) and
Polyester(35%)

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – Light Blue

Weft Ply – 2 ; Colour – Blue

: Plain Weave

: Wrinkle Free Finishing, Enzymatic

Treatment.

: uniforms for correctional facilities,

and for non-apparel applications such as
futons and seat cushion covers.
 : Linen

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – White

Weft Ply – 2 ; Colour – Light Peach

: Plain Weave

: delicate finishing, biological

finishing using cellulosic enzymes

: bed and bath fabrics, home and

commercial furnishing items, apparel items
and industrial products (luggage, canvases,
sewing thread).
 : Silk

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – Purple

Weft Ply – 2 ; Colour – Purple

: Plain Weave

: calendering, decatizing, breaking,

tamponing

: upholstery and draperies. They

are also used for evening and formal
clothing, for vestments, as well as for
costumes.
 : Cotton

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – Off White

Weft Ply – 1 ; Colour – Off White(slightly

coloured)

: Twill Weave

: Napping, Brushing Finish

: clothing, blankets, bed sheets,

and sleepwear.
 : Rayon (100%
regenerated cellulose)

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – Cream

Weft Ply – 2 ; Colour – Cream

: Plain Weave

: mercerization, sanforization
(shrink resistance), and permanent press

: textile industry, furnishing,

medical field for making bandages and
surgical dressing
 : Silk

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – White

Weft Ply – 2 ; Colour – White

: Plain Weave

: stiff and wiry finish, moire effect

calendering

: clothing like blouses, full

dresses, airy skirts, evening gowns and
bridal dresses; accessory like bracelets and
bands.
 : Pure Silk

Warp Ply – 1 ; Colour – Black

Weft Ply – 1 ; Colour – Multi Coloured

: Plain Weave

: Lightweight, transparent,
glossy finish

: evening wear, especially as

an overlay, blouses, ribbons, scarves and
lingerie
 : Nylon ( Polyamide
Polymers)

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – Magenta

Weft Ply – 1 ; Colour – Magenta

: Twill Weave

: Schreinering Effect, Glossy Finish

: Clothing , Industrial uses like

Conveyer and seat belts, parachutes, airbags,
nets and ropes, as plastic in manufacturing
machine parts.
 : Silk

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – Red

Weft Ply – 2 ; Colour – Red

: Plain Weave

: Brushing finish, Sanding finish

: used in intimate garments,

upholstery ,other textile application; Drapes,
curtains, throw pillow covers and furniture
upholstery
 : Cotton and Silk

Warp Ply – 1 ; Colour – White

Weft Ply – 1 ; Colour – Multi Coloured

: Plain Weave

: Shrink effect, rippling, three-

dimensional texture finish, crisp and crimped
finish.

: women's garments like traditional

skirts, blouses, evening wear and gowns.
 : Cotton

Warp Ply – 1 ; Colour – Light Peach

Weft Ply – 1 ; Colour – Light Peach

: Satin Weave

: Glossy Surface finishing, Stiff

Finish

: used for sheets and bed, lining

for garments, curtains and upholstery.
 : Cotton

Warp Ply – 3 ; Colour – Cream

Weft Ply – 1 ; Colour – Cream

: Twill Weave

: Mercerised finish, lustrous finish,

stain resistant finish

: Typically used in making of pants

trousers, shirts and military wear
 : Cotton

Warp Ply – 2 ; Colour – white

Weft Ply – 2 ; Colour – white

: Plain Weave

: bleach finished, glossy, enamel-

like finish.

: making sails, tents, marquees,

backpacks, shelters, as a support for oil
painting, other fashion objects as handbags,
electronic device cases, and shoes.
THANKYOU
Manjusha Mary Mathews

FD 3

Faculty – Thippeswamy Sir