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Fire On The Mountain
Fire On The Mountain
MOUNTAIN
O
n 23 June 1802, German geo- By Tim Appenzeller grand patterns—is giving scientists an intel-
grapher Alexander von Humboldt lectual framework for understanding a phe-
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Alexander von Humboldt’s 1807 Tableau Physique Tuolombo, 37, who guides and outfits hikers often comes down as rain. And humidity is
mapped vegetation onto fanciful versions of the and has a small farm—five cows and fields rising, which transfers heat more efficiently
volcanoes Chimborazo and Cotopaxi. of garlic—at an elevation of 4200 meters. “I to the ice.
remember when I was a boy, the glacier was Those processes are converting Chim-
equator. On the peak’s eastern slopes, mois- tremendous,” he says. “Now, it’s rock.” borazo’s gleaming ice to a sodden, pitted
ture from the Amazon Basin next door— The waning of the ice has made the moonscape. Seven years ago, La Frenierre
plus temperatures that rarely drop below mountain even more treacherous than in planted a stake in the tongue of the Resch-
freezing except at the highest elevations— Humboldt’s day. Rocks once cemented into reiter Glacier to measure the rate of melt-
nurture grassland, bogs, and springy cush- place by ice now tumble down its slopes, ing; this summer he found it bent, lying on
ions of moss and dwarf alpine plants, all endangering climbers; one guide died this bare gravel. The nearest ice was 260 meters
highly sensitive to climate change. Below the past spring. Lakes of meltwater that accu- away, above a sheer cliff.
summit sprawl 17 small glaciers, bellweth- mulate at the foot of the glaciers periodically
ers of global warming and a crucial water burst their banks, unleashing floods that AS THE ICE RETREATS, farmers are moving
source for tens of thousands of people living sweep mud and boulders into the valleys upward. When Humboldt visited Chimbo-
at lower elevations. below. “Many lakes are collapsing,” Punina razo in 1802, the farm fields ended at about
As a result, the volcano has again become Tuolombo says. In 2007, he watched a melt- 3600 meters. Now, population growth and a
a draw for researchers. Some have tracked water flood race down the mountain: “We more benign climate have pushed agricul-
how fast the plants that Humboldt observed
are migrating upward as temperatures rise.
Other scientists are probing how retreat-
how climate change is affecting its among the fastest-warming re- study area, annual peak flows have dropped
glaciers, stream flow, and ground- gions of the planet, by about by as much as half since the early 1980s.
water. He is astonished at how one-tenth of a degree Celsius per That decrease has strained agreements that
fast the ice is succumbing. decade. One factor is a feedback divide the water among farming communi-
Chimborazo’s glaciers have lost loop familiar from the Arctic: As ties. “Eighty percent of the time, there’s not
about 20% of their surface area since reflective ice and snow vanish, they ex- enough water to supply the allocation,” he
the 1980s, and the 2.5-square-kilometer Re- pose darker surfaces that absorb more solar says. As a result, “You’re already starting to
schreiter has retreated by more than 1 kilo- radiation, amplifying the warming. Changes see conflicts between upstream users and
meter, he says. Leonardo Punina Tuolombo, in moisture are also speeding glacier loss. In downstream users.”
who grew up in an Indigenous community some places, dry seasons are lasting longer, La Frenierre thinks the plight of the Re-
nearby, has watched it happen. “All the starving the glaciers of snowfall; elsewhere, schreiter Glacier, melting away 6 kilometers
time, the glacier moves higher,” says Punina precipitation that once fell as snow more up the valley from the irrigation intake, is
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one reason. In the early years of retreat, springs are mysteriously drying up. ter even scarcer and less reliable for down-
a glacier produces a surge of meltwater, Ng and La Frenierre are investigating a stream users—not just on Chimborazo, but
swelling streams. But as the ice shrivels, the possible explanation: that some of the melt- on glacierized mountains everywhere.
system passes a tipping point and the flow water from Chimborazo’s glaciers doesn’t To make their model fully realistic, how-
of meltwater declines. Mark has observed drain directly into streams but instead per- ever, the researchers need to include one
that effect in Peru; on Chimborazo, too, “We colates down into the porous volcanic rock more claimant on the mountain’s water:
could have passed the threshold to lower at the base of the ice. The water then cir- the ranks of vegetation that Humboldt
runoff,” La Frenierre says. culates underground, adding to the ground- depicted—and that are now moving upslope.
To gauge the importance of that runoff, water that feeds the wells and springs in
La Frenierre, hydrologist G.-H. Crystal Ng of farming communities at lower elevations. ON CHIMBORAZO, gray-green lichens and
the University of Minnesota in Minneapolis, “The big question is how much of the pillows of moss are colonizing the rocks
and their colleagues do a kind of watershed groundwater is glacial,” La Frenierre says. and gravel recently bared by retreating ice.
accounting. They tally the water entering “That’s what we’re trying to quantify.” Here and there, tabletop-size islands of
their study area—rain, snow, and glacial So far, the computer models suggest in- brighter green stand out, each centered on
meltwater—as measured by automated filtrating melt contributes about 20% of the a small mound of droppings deposited by
weather stations and surveys of the vicuñas. The small, llamalike crea-
shrinking ice. Then, the research- tures, introduced to Chimborazo
ers enter those data into computer decades ago from farther south in
models and adjust the models to the Andes, defecate on communal
match the ebb and flow of water dung heaps, supplying a boon of
users “can’t afford to lose any more water,” of the mountain could be to blame for fail- (PNAS) in 2015, detailed a startling transfor-
Ng adds. ing springs at lower elevations—which is mation. Whereas Humboldt had recorded an
Another phenomenon is contributing to spurring the communities to build still upper limit for seed plants of 4600 meters,
the channel’s shrinking flow, and it, too, more water diversions that further reduce Morueta-Holme and her team found pio-
may be linked—indirectly—to glacier loss. the flow in the irrigation channel. neers as high as 5185 meters. Other, lower-
Farther up the valley, labor cooperatives More diversions could amplify the ten- living species—showy gentians, a spiky aster
from villages on Chimborazo’s drier slopes sions over water. Already, La Frenierre says, relative called Chuquiraga, purple lupines—
have built dozens of small concrete dams “You tread very carefully when you ask [local had moved upslope by an average of more
to capture water from springs. The water people] about water supplies.” To aid plan- than 500 meters since 1802. It was eye-
is diverted into pipes and canals that carry ning and defuse future conflicts, he and his catching evidence that climate change has
it across the flanks of the mountain and colleagues hope to build a model that would upended the world Humboldt mapped.
down to farms and villages, whose own forecast how glacial retreat will make wa- Not everyone was convinced that the
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Farmers grow potatoes and other crops above 4000 meters on Ecuador’s peaks. For many, irrigation—supplied in part by dwindling ice—is crucial.
data displayed in the Tableau were reli- vey of those patterns—not on Chimborazo, The researchers hope to fine-tune esti-
able enough to support those conclusions. but on Antisana, the source of most of mates of how much groundwater plants
Humboldt himself warned against expect- Humboldt’s data. In 2017, the researchers are intercepting by taking samples—espe-
ing high precision from what was as much systematically mapped the current ranges cially of deep-rooted, woody plants such
a work of art as of science, writing, “in a of 31 species there. For most, the impreci- as Polylepis, the Andean “fairy trees” with
work of this kind, one must consider two sion of the Tableau made it hard to calcu- twisting limbs and papery bark. The plan
conflicting interests, appearance and exac- late just how far upslope those plants have is to analyze water flowing in the xylem,
titude.” This year, a team including Muriel moved. But for one species, a silvery leafed the water-carrying layers of wood, for trac-
scrutinized Humboldt’s diaries and collec- shrub called Senecio nivalis, Bonpland had ers suggesting it came from the melting
tions, concluding that his Tableau was not a clearly recorded a maximum altitude of glacier. If the amounts are significant, the
faithful record of what grew on Chimborazo 4860 meters, right where Antisana’s per- vegetation zones that Humboldt mapped
200 years ago. manent snow began. The plant now grows will join glaciers, streams, and groundwa-
For one thing, the researchers noted, above 5100 meters, having climbed more ter in a complex hydrological interplay, ul-
Humboldt spent just a few hours on the than 200 vertical meters, in step with the timately driven by global warming.
highest slopes of Chimborazo, and he and rising snow line.
Bonpland collected no plants above 3600 That’s only half of the 500 meters CLIMATE CHANGE and other human impacts
meters. They also sampled less system- Morueta-Holme and colleagues originally may have made Humboldt’s Tableau unrec-
atically than modern botanists. “Humboldt calculated, but still a dramatic shift upslope. ognizable, but he remains a vivid presence
never has precise information about ranges. “I’ll continue to believe the patterns, but for scientists following in his footsteps—
He and Bonpland probably collected plants not the precise numbers,” says Daniel including Sisimac Duchicela, who grew up
when they first saw them,” says Pierre Moret Stanton, a botanist from the University of in Quito, 200 kilometers north of Chim-
of Toulouse University in France, lead author Minnesota in St. Paul, who works with Ng borazo, and is working on her Ph.D. at
of the paper, published this year in PNAS. and La Frenierre. “Whether it’s 300 meters the University of Texas in Austin. In a bid
What’s more, Moret and his co-authors or 500 meters, we’re still talking about sub- to preview warming impacts, she and col-
found that much of the data Humboldt dis- stantial change.” leagues are doing field experiments on
PHOTO: EVAN TAYLOR/GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS COLLEGE
played on the slopes of Chimborazo actually As the vegetation marches upward, Pichincha, another Ecuadorian volcano
came from another volcano, 5700-meter An- it may be adding to the strain on water Humboldt climbed. They have enclosed
tisana, 130 kilometers to the northeast. He resources—in particular the groundwater small patches of high-altitude vegetation
and Bonpland spent 4 days there, collecting likely coming from the melting glaciers, in clear plastic, creating a focused, artificial
and recording dozens of species. Humboldt Stanton and Ng say. Plants can tap deep greenhouse effect.
mapped the data onto Chimborazo because, water and release it into the atmosphere As Duchicela monitors those microcosms,
well, Chimborazo was more famous. as water vapor, which means the greening she remembers how Humboldt approached
“It’s definitely messy,” says Morueta- of the mountain could exacerbate water those same mountains: “by looking at
Holme, who is now at the University of shortages in the settlements below. To fore- everything—at the little things and the big
Copenhagen. “We were sticking with broad- cast water flows, Ng says, “You need to ac- things and how they connect to each other.
scale patterns.” count for [both glacier loss] and vegetation That part,” she adds, “was particularly in-
Moret’s team decided to do its own sur- migrating upslope and transpiring.” spiring for me.” j
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Fire on the mountain
Tim Appenzeller
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