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FIRE ON THE

MOUNTAIN

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More than 2 centuries after Humboldt charted life zones on Ecuador’s
Chimborazo, climate change is transforming the peak

ENGRAVED BY BOUQUET/TYPEFACE BY L. AUBERT/PRINTED BY LANGLOIS/WIKIMEDIA COMMONS

O
n 23 June 1802, German geo- By Tim Appenzeller grand patterns—is giving scientists an intel-
grapher Alexander von Humboldt lectual framework for understanding a phe-

IMAGE: DESIGNED BY A. VON HUMBOLDT/DRAWN BY SCHÖNBERGER AND TURPIN/


and his companions could climb Chimborazo into a triumph that cemented nomenon Humboldt himself could not have
no higher. Plagued by altitude his reputation as the era’s superstar scien- anticipated: how human-driven climate
sickness, their gloveless hands tist and explorer—and his legacy. Not long change is transforming life.
bloodied from jagged handholds, after his descent from the mountain, he Tropical mountains are ideal stages for
and their boots sodden, they faced sketched a spectacular diagram that used watching climate change unfold. They com-
a final obstacle in their quest to the slopes of Chimborazo to depict a con- press many climates into a small space, as
climb Chimborazo, a 6268-meter- cept that had crystallized during his climb: Humboldt wrote in his Essay on the Geo-
high volcano in Ecuador then thought to be that climate is an organizing principle of life, graphy of Plants: “On this steep surface
the world’s highest mountain. The clouds shaping the distinct communities of plants climbing from the ocean level to the per-
briefly parted, revealing the summit—and a and animals found at different altitudes and petual snows, various climates follow one
chasm barring their way. They had reached latitudes. The diagram—Humboldt called another and are superimposed, so to speak.”
“a place higher than all others that men had it his Tableau Physique—has become what Now, global warming is quickly reshuffling
reached on the backs of the mountains,” one recent paper described as “an iconic those montane climates. And few peaks re-
Humboldt boasted later. But they had to milestone, almost a foundation myth, in the cord the impact of human-driven climate
turn back, some 400 vertical meters short history of ecology.” change more vividly than Chimborazo itself.
of their goal. Today, the idea born on Chimborazo— The massive volcano, which last erupted
In the end, Humboldt spun his defeat on that the physical environment shapes life’s 1500 years ago, rises just 1° south of the

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Alexander von Humboldt’s 1807 Tableau Physique Tuolombo, 37, who guides and outfits hikers often comes down as rain. And humidity is
mapped vegetation onto fanciful versions of the and has a small farm—five cows and fields rising, which transfers heat more efficiently
volcanoes Chimborazo and Cotopaxi. of garlic—at an elevation of 4200 meters. “I to the ice.
remember when I was a boy, the glacier was Those processes are converting Chim-
equator. On the peak’s eastern slopes, mois- tremendous,” he says. “Now, it’s rock.” borazo’s gleaming ice to a sodden, pitted
ture from the Amazon Basin next door— The waning of the ice has made the moonscape. Seven years ago, La Frenierre
plus temperatures that rarely drop below mountain even more treacherous than in planted a stake in the tongue of the Resch-
freezing except at the highest elevations— Humboldt’s day. Rocks once cemented into reiter Glacier to measure the rate of melt-
nurture grassland, bogs, and springy cush- place by ice now tumble down its slopes, ing; this summer he found it bent, lying on
ions of moss and dwarf alpine plants, all endangering climbers; one guide died this bare gravel. The nearest ice was 260 meters
highly sensitive to climate change. Below the past spring. Lakes of meltwater that accu- away, above a sheer cliff.
summit sprawl 17 small glaciers, bellweth- mulate at the foot of the glaciers periodically
ers of global warming and a crucial water burst their banks, unleashing floods that AS THE ICE RETREATS, farmers are moving
source for tens of thousands of people living sweep mud and boulders into the valleys upward. When Humboldt visited Chimbo-
at lower elevations. below. “Many lakes are collapsing,” Punina razo in 1802, the farm fields ended at about
As a result, the volcano has again become Tuolombo says. In 2007, he watched a melt- 3600 meters. Now, population growth and a
a draw for researchers. Some have tracked water flood race down the mountain: “We more benign climate have pushed agricul-
how fast the plants that Humboldt observed
are migrating upward as temperatures rise.
Other scientists are probing how retreat-

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ing glaciers and shifting vegetation may be
altering the flow of water from the moun-
tain to thirsty communities below. Together,
those studies are mapping the interplay of
plants, people, and an environment that is
now changing because of humanity’s impact.
The modern research adopts Humboldt’s
holistic approach, repurposed for an era
of climate change, says ecologist Priscilla
Muriel of the Pontifical Catholic University
of Ecuador in Quito. “Data is not just data;
you have to actually go out and look at
things, observe things, and try to get a feel of
what nature actually is.”

IN JUNE, in a lush valley at 4000 meters—


more than two vertical kilometers below
Chimborazo’s summit—geographer Jeff La
Frenierre stood waist deep in a concrete ir- Flows are dwindling in irrigation canals carrying water from Ecuador’s volcanoes. Geographer Jef La Frenierre
rigation channel flowing with turbid water. (left) and graduate student Leah Nelson (right) are investigating the role of shrinking glaciers.
Clad in fishing waders, he dipped an instru-
ment into the torrent, measuring its veloc-
ity to calibrate an automated stream gauge saw rocks falling, people climbing hills for ture hundreds of meters upslope. Dark beds
nearby. “This is all the water coming out of safety.” of potato and other crops are encroaching
our study area,” he said—the full harvest of Similar stories are unfolding throughout on the grasslands above 4000 meters, where
the melting Reschreiter Glacier, Chimbora- the tropics. “The story of loss of glaciers frosts have become rarer.
zo’s largest, plus the rain and snow that fall is pretty common,” says Bryan Mark, a ge- Meanwhile, rainfall has become less pre-
in the same 7.5-square-kilometer watershed. ographer at Ohio State University in Co- dictable, farmers say. At lower altitudes, ir-
For the past decade, La Frenierre, who lumbus who has chronicled the retreat of rigation can make the difference between
teaches at Gustavus Adolphus College in St. ice and its impact on water supplies in the two harvests a year—enough to survive as
Peter, Minnesota, has visited Chimbo- Andes of Peru. “It’s a warming thing.” a full-time farmer—and one. But in the ir-
razo once or twice a year to study High tropical mountains are rigation canal that drains La Frenierre’s
PHOTO: EVAN TAYLOR/GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS COLLEGE

how climate change is affecting its among the fastest-warming re- study area, annual peak flows have dropped
glaciers, stream flow, and ground- gions of the planet, by about by as much as half since the early 1980s.
water. He is astonished at how one-tenth of a degree Celsius per That decrease has strained agreements that
fast the ice is succumbing. decade. One factor is a feedback divide the water among farming communi-
Chimborazo’s glaciers have lost loop familiar from the Arctic: As ties. “Eighty percent of the time, there’s not
about 20% of their surface area since reflective ice and snow vanish, they ex- enough water to supply the allocation,” he
the 1980s, and the 2.5-square-kilometer Re- pose darker surfaces that absorb more solar says. As a result, “You’re already starting to
schreiter has retreated by more than 1 kilo- radiation, amplifying the warming. Changes see conflicts between upstream users and
meter, he says. Leonardo Punina Tuolombo, in moisture are also speeding glacier loss. In downstream users.”
who grew up in an Indigenous community some places, dry seasons are lasting longer, La Frenierre thinks the plight of the Re-
nearby, has watched it happen. “All the starving the glaciers of snowfall; elsewhere, schreiter Glacier, melting away 6 kilometers
time, the glacier moves higher,” says Punina precipitation that once fell as snow more up the valley from the irrigation intake, is

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one reason. In the early years of retreat, springs are mysteriously drying up. ter even scarcer and less reliable for down-
a glacier produces a surge of meltwater, Ng and La Frenierre are investigating a stream users—not just on Chimborazo, but
swelling streams. But as the ice shrivels, the possible explanation: that some of the melt- on glacierized mountains everywhere.
system passes a tipping point and the flow water from Chimborazo’s glaciers doesn’t To make their model fully realistic, how-
of meltwater declines. Mark has observed drain directly into streams but instead per- ever, the researchers need to include one
that effect in Peru; on Chimborazo, too, “We colates down into the porous volcanic rock more claimant on the mountain’s water:
could have passed the threshold to lower at the base of the ice. The water then cir- the ranks of vegetation that Humboldt
runoff,” La Frenierre says. culates underground, adding to the ground- depicted—and that are now moving upslope.
To gauge the importance of that runoff, water that feeds the wells and springs in
La Frenierre, hydrologist G.-H. Crystal Ng of farming communities at lower elevations. ON CHIMBORAZO, gray-green lichens and
the University of Minnesota in Minneapolis, “The big question is how much of the pillows of moss are colonizing the rocks
and their colleagues do a kind of watershed groundwater is glacial,” La Frenierre says. and gravel recently bared by retreating ice.
accounting. They tally the water entering “That’s what we’re trying to quantify.” Here and there, tabletop-size islands of
their study area—rain, snow, and glacial So far, the computer models suggest in- brighter green stand out, each centered on
meltwater—as measured by automated filtrating melt contributes about 20% of the a small mound of droppings deposited by
weather stations and surveys of the vicuñas. The small, llamalike crea-
shrinking ice. Then, the research- tures, introduced to Chimborazo
ers enter those data into computer decades ago from farther south in
models and adjust the models to the Andes, defecate on communal
match the ebb and flow of water dung heaps, supplying a boon of

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out of the valley, recorded by their nitrogen for plants.
automated stream gauges. Newly verdant slopes are easy
Water draining straight from to see on many Andean peaks.
the melting glacier can vary over But Humboldt’s data, compiled
just a few hours, depending on on his Tableau Physique, offer
the weather. The flow is “really something much rarer: a chance
flashy, really peaky,” Ng says. But to reconstruct a 200-year his-
the amount of groundwater seep- tory of how plants have migrated
ing into the stream varies more upward. During his climbs,
slowly, over time scales of a week Humboldt stopped periodically
or so. From the tempo at which to take elevation readings with a
stream flow rises and falls, the fragile glass barometer and, with
models can disentangle how much his botanist companion Aimé
of the water runs straight off the Bonpland, to record and collect
ice and how much originates as plants. The result is a record of
groundwater, which is fed largely mountain biogeography from the
by precipitation. beginning of the Industrial Revo-
Ng’s team has also analyzed the lution—a unique baseline for gaug-
water’s levels of dissolved minerals, ing the changes since then.
mainly magnesium and calcium. A group led by ecologist Naia
They can be used to trace ground- Morueta-Holme, then at Aarhus
water, which picks up the minerals University in Denmark, was the
as it percolates through soil and first to try to tap those data. Comb-
bedrock. Together, the modeling ing the Tableau and other records
and dissolved minerals confirm Humboldt compiled, the team
that only a fraction of the flow into found information on the altitude
the irrigation system, perhaps 10%, Botanist Daniel Stanton is studying how vegetation on Chimborazo and ranges of some 50 alpine plant va-
originates directly from the glacier. other tropical peaks captures water—and how the upward migration of rieties. Then, they climbed much of
But it is a crucial 10%. “The loss of plants as the climate warms may worsen water shortages. the way up Chimborazo themselves
5% to 10% of your water from los- to see where those plants now grow.
ing the glacier is going to only enhance the groundwater in their study area. If that re- Their resurvey, published in the Proceed-
shortage,” La Frenierre says. Downstream sult holds up, glacier retreat on other flanks ings of the National Academy of Sciences
PHOTOS: EVAN TAYLOR/GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS COLLEGE

users “can’t afford to lose any more water,” of the mountain could be to blame for fail- (PNAS) in 2015, detailed a startling transfor-
Ng adds. ing springs at lower elevations—which is mation. Whereas Humboldt had recorded an
Another phenomenon is contributing to spurring the communities to build still upper limit for seed plants of 4600 meters,
the channel’s shrinking flow, and it, too, more water diversions that further reduce Morueta-Holme and her team found pio-
may be linked—indirectly—to glacier loss. the flow in the irrigation channel. neers as high as 5185 meters. Other, lower-
Farther up the valley, labor cooperatives More diversions could amplify the ten- living species—showy gentians, a spiky aster
from villages on Chimborazo’s drier slopes sions over water. Already, La Frenierre says, relative called Chuquiraga, purple lupines—
have built dozens of small concrete dams “You tread very carefully when you ask [local had moved upslope by an average of more
to capture water from springs. The water people] about water supplies.” To aid plan- than 500 meters since 1802. It was eye-
is diverted into pipes and canals that carry ning and defuse future conflicts, he and his catching evidence that climate change has
it across the flanks of the mountain and colleagues hope to build a model that would upended the world Humboldt mapped.
down to farms and villages, whose own forecast how glacial retreat will make wa- Not everyone was convinced that the

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Farmers grow potatoes and other crops above 4000 meters on Ecuador’s peaks. For many, irrigation—supplied in part by dwindling ice—is crucial.

data displayed in the Tableau were reli- vey of those patterns—not on Chimborazo, The researchers hope to fine-tune esti-
able enough to support those conclusions. but on Antisana, the source of most of mates of how much groundwater plants
Humboldt himself warned against expect- Humboldt’s data. In 2017, the researchers are intercepting by taking samples—espe-
ing high precision from what was as much systematically mapped the current ranges cially of deep-rooted, woody plants such
a work of art as of science, writing, “in a of 31 species there. For most, the impreci- as Polylepis, the Andean “fairy trees” with
work of this kind, one must consider two sion of the Tableau made it hard to calcu- twisting limbs and papery bark. The plan
conflicting interests, appearance and exac- late just how far upslope those plants have is to analyze water flowing in the xylem,
titude.” This year, a team including Muriel moved. But for one species, a silvery leafed the water-carrying layers of wood, for trac-
scrutinized Humboldt’s diaries and collec- shrub called Senecio nivalis, Bonpland had ers suggesting it came from the melting
tions, concluding that his Tableau was not a clearly recorded a maximum altitude of glacier. If the amounts are significant, the
faithful record of what grew on Chimborazo 4860 meters, right where Antisana’s per- vegetation zones that Humboldt mapped
200 years ago. manent snow began. The plant now grows will join glaciers, streams, and groundwa-
For one thing, the researchers noted, above 5100 meters, having climbed more ter in a complex hydrological interplay, ul-
Humboldt spent just a few hours on the than 200 vertical meters, in step with the timately driven by global warming.
highest slopes of Chimborazo, and he and rising snow line.
Bonpland collected no plants above 3600 That’s only half of the 500 meters CLIMATE CHANGE and other human impacts
meters. They also sampled less system- Morueta-Holme and colleagues originally may have made Humboldt’s Tableau unrec-
atically than modern botanists. “Humboldt calculated, but still a dramatic shift upslope. ognizable, but he remains a vivid presence
never has precise information about ranges. “I’ll continue to believe the patterns, but for scientists following in his footsteps—
He and Bonpland probably collected plants not the precise numbers,” says Daniel including Sisimac Duchicela, who grew up
when they first saw them,” says Pierre Moret Stanton, a botanist from the University of in Quito, 200 kilometers north of Chim-
of Toulouse University in France, lead author Minnesota in St. Paul, who works with Ng borazo, and is working on her Ph.D. at
of the paper, published this year in PNAS. and La Frenierre. “Whether it’s 300 meters the University of Texas in Austin. In a bid
What’s more, Moret and his co-authors or 500 meters, we’re still talking about sub- to preview warming impacts, she and col-
found that much of the data Humboldt dis- stantial change.” leagues are doing field experiments on
PHOTO: EVAN TAYLOR/GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS COLLEGE

played on the slopes of Chimborazo actually As the vegetation marches upward, Pichincha, another Ecuadorian volcano
came from another volcano, 5700-meter An- it may be adding to the strain on water Humboldt climbed. They have enclosed
tisana, 130 kilometers to the northeast. He resources—in particular the groundwater small patches of high-altitude vegetation
and Bonpland spent 4 days there, collecting likely coming from the melting glaciers, in clear plastic, creating a focused, artificial
and recording dozens of species. Humboldt Stanton and Ng say. Plants can tap deep greenhouse effect.
mapped the data onto Chimborazo because, water and release it into the atmosphere As Duchicela monitors those microcosms,
well, Chimborazo was more famous. as water vapor, which means the greening she remembers how Humboldt approached
“It’s definitely messy,” says Morueta- of the mountain could exacerbate water those same mountains: “by looking at
Holme, who is now at the University of shortages in the settlements below. To fore- everything—at the little things and the big
Copenhagen. “We were sticking with broad- cast water flows, Ng says, “You need to ac- things and how they connect to each other.
scale patterns.” count for [both glacier loss] and vegetation That part,” she adds, “was particularly in-
Moret’s team decided to do its own sur- migrating upslope and transpiring.” spiring for me.” j

SCIENCE sciencemag.org 13 SEP TEMBER 2019 • VOL 365 ISSUE 6458 1097
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Fire on the mountain
Tim Appenzeller

Science 365 (6458), 1094-1097.


DOI: 10.1126/science.365.6458.1094

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ARTICLE TOOLS http://science.sciencemag.org/content/365/6458/1094

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