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Build A Low Cost & Simple Magnetic Pulser
Build A Low Cost & Simple Magnetic Pulser
Build A Low Cost & Simple Magnetic Pulser
extensive update (of the 2003-08-19 original) that many have been
requesting. Some additions are:
Stop all processed foods (this includes all vegetable oils (unrefined
cold pressed oils such as organic Fax, olive (uncooked only) for
salads, coconut and palm for cooking are the only exceptions) and
most milk products, unless raw, rest are all adulterated. No breads
unless cultured and made from stone ground grains! - Best to reduce
carbohydrates and especially salt (but increase raw and cooked
organic vegetables) and no artificial sweeteners. If you want a little
sweetener go to totally unprocessed ones such as little unpasteurized
honey and cane sugar. Take a little lugols iodine say a drop or two a
day - don't overdo it.
Also note: dehydrated patients may not respond well to any type of
therapy! Nearly all water has toxins in it! Best to use distilled to which
a little magnesium has been added. Better to make herbal teas
and/or drink fresh vegetable fruit juices
Please note that this is not a permanent magnet but a pulsed magnet
and as such the polarity is not an issue, when the pulse collapses the
magnetic field reverses. Hence one need not worry about the
magnetic polarity.
I still don't like the auto types as the body gets habituated to non
random pulses the only exceptions are possilbly the natural beat
frequency of the Earth magnetic field (9.6 Hz) AND the Schumann
waves (7.83 Hz) - a random pulser circuit is still the goal but due to
great demand, much against my will, have now included a constant
pulsing option for those who requested it. For the sake of simplicity a
neon lamp is used. Unfortunately neons are not very stable and tend
to vary as time goes by and may need to be replaced so use a socket
for a quick change. The pulsing rate can be changed and should be
changed every so often so the body does not get habituated, to that
end I have added a switch to change the pulse rates...
Formula: W=(CE^2)/2
# capacitors #Joules
5* 29
6 35
7 41
*Present circuit.
Any SCR with PEAK current of at least 600 to 1000 amps should
work. The one shown is 20 amp continuous with the appropriate peak
rating. The lamps act as current limiters and protect the SCR against
a short circuit. The circuit can be further simplified as discussed in
point 3 below.
http://www.keelynet.com/biology/thumind.htm
"Junk VHS videocassette reels are cheap, plentiful and adequate for
this application. Remove 5 screws from shell, remove reels and
discard tape. Be SURE alternative spools (if used) are non-
conductive or system will not work. Avoid shorter length VHS tape
reels which may have center hubs larger than 1" dia. and won't hold
sufficient wire. Drill 1/4" holes through hub and through center of
flange(s). Make two 4" discs from 1/4" thick plastic or fiberboard, drill
1/4" center holes and another 1/4" hole off-center so coil's inside lead
wire can be pulled through. These 'stiffeners' will sandwich reel's
flanges so they won't warp or split as wire pressure builds up while
winding progresses. A 2" (or longer) 1/4-20 machine nut and bolt with
washers through centers will clamp flange stiffeners and reel and also
provide a shaft to hold in a variable speed drill motor or similar
winding device if used. Then remove bolt and stiffeners.
I have also attached a file for the free CircuitMaker Student Version
electronics software for those interested in modifying the simple
circuit that I have developed.
pulserworking20090209.ckt
Chris Gupta
Sites of interest:
- Here are a few articles on Pulsed Electro-Magnetic Field (PEMF)
Therapy.
- Steffan Heydon' Home-Made Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser
based on this basic design.
- Bil Green's M-Pulse 5000 with lots of supporting info.
Flowing is some feedback I recieved regarging the use of this
device.
Chris Gupta
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 04:34:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: sergio masiddo
Subject: YOU ARE SAVING LIVES
Cris. I have a sota puler that is not very strong as you know. It is
effective to a couple of inches?? However I have also a magnetic
waist belt that I use against my skin witht he pulser on the other side.
Boy does that pack a whallop and it does the job in a few zaps. Need
to have some professional attention to this method of inhansing the
pulser to penitrate deeper . I have used it on the sinus area on my
head with great relief.alson on kidneys same results. Gods speed and
keep the reaseach going. The Truth will set you free owh.
Gerhard Ditterich
Weistfeld 17
30539 Hannover
Germany
T +495119524360
Also it is not always true that the "problem will move to anther
place" as the magnetic pulse or electric currents change the profile of
he cell membranes that facilitate nutriment uptake and detox that can
heal the injury pronto....
Also it is not always true that the "problem will move to anther
place" as the magnetic pulse or electric currents change the profile of
he cell membranes that facilitate nutriment uptake and detox that can
heal the injury pronto....
www.FuellessPower.com
sales@fuellesspower.com
Hi, it would be nice if you could post some pictures of the final
project/board. Though a schematics is fine then for me it would be
easier to also have a picture to look at.
Hi, I bought all the parts today which was pretty easy except for the
SCR.
3 things:
2) I have used 6x 560 UF capacitors (at 250 v) for the unit - will
that be ok when I use 250 volt? I wanted to make it more powerful
than your schematics (also, i could not find any capacitors lowwer
than 270 UF anyway). Or, should I increase the capacitors to
capacitors who can handle 400 volt instead of just 250 volt?
3) Your schematic is good. You could make it more clear your text
because sometimes it seems like you talk about a schematic/part of a
schematic which is not on the page, other times you talk about
schematic 1 or 2 - and its not really clear for a newbie at least :-).
4) pictures of your units would be a great enhancement also.
Hi, make sure that if you use 220 volt instead of 110 volt that the
capacitors can handle at least 450 volt.
Also, be aware that the click switch should be made of very good
quality - mine blew off afer just 1-2 clicks (where I did not use the
SCR also).
John
Please sent it John, will have a look. Incidentally you cannot pulse
at 5000 Hz at the powers here unless you have a humongous power
supply!
Thanks
Hi Chris, 12.Nov.2005
I have used your schematic to construct a Magnetic Pulser. I am
not wonderfully electronically minded; I try to follow the picture. I will
try to include some pics with this email. If they do not come through,
let me know how to get them to your site.
I was unable to get a 130uF capacitor, so used a 100uF @ 160v. I
used, used PhotoFlash capacitors from disposable cameras and had
an assortment. I firstly used 5 120uF (= 600uF) at 330V. I attached it
all to a simple board. My SCR is 600v 25 A.
I had some problems. Firstly, I had wired up the SCR incorrectly,
so it was not happy. (Thought that the gate was the middle terminal,
not the # 3 terminal. Had to have an electronics friend help for that.
Secondly, I did not clean up the board well enough and caused a
small burn across some connection, which were too close to each
other. (Photo 1: Note the board scorch beneath the SCR.) I removed
the SCR from the board as it gets warm with rapid use. I also
changed the position of the rectifier (2N5402) as it was too close the
PhotoFlash-legs connector.
Hi! Cris could you tell me please the difference between a Photo
flash capacitor and Electrolytic capacitor. Will they work just the same
on the magnetic pulser circuit?
Thanks,
Ricardo
Cris, Could not find SCR here would a TRIAC work in place of it in
the magnetic pulser circuit? Thanks again
Please read:
Hi Chris, 02.Dec.2005
I emailed you Nov 12 to this forum, but I believe that I messed up
my new email address, which I have now amended.
I hope that you may be able to find time to answer some of my
questions from that November post.
With thanks
Al
Just found your site and have Looked at your schematic circuit. I
am very interested in your circuit design and have a few questions for
you?
Why did not you use a transformer to step up the current in the
magnetic loop?
Have you designed a timer control.
Have you designed a means by which you can adjust the current in
the magnetic loop?
Yes I have designed a timer but just have not updated it yet.
The circuit is self limiting hence there was no need for adjustable
current.
What is the function of the 120 Volt, 120 watt lamps or 2 - 60w
lamps in parallel? Circuit Voltage dropping?
What is the function of the The 10K resistor the Diode and the
manual switch in the top schematic?
The link to free Circuit Maker Student Version electronics does not
transfer to the link.
I have examined your circuit more closely and now found the
answer to my previous question regarding the inductor.. And find in
your preamble, this induction coil is wound on to the Video Cassette.
However, you have not shown the "Therapy Loop" as a device in
your circuit, Is it in series with the Induction Circuit?
Anders,
There is no need for xformer it will not make the circuit more
effective. Study the circuit more and you will have the answer.
Hi Chris; have built the pulser. used five 350uf 450v cps and a
220uf 350v after the bulbs. used two very small halogen chandelier
bulbs under a small mason jar on top of housing. a 15a micro-sw for
the trigger. when I fire it up the bulbs light and go out in about 1.5
seconds and when triggered get only a weak pulse that barely rocks
a 1.5" washer. Should the caps be closer on value to the schematic?
I did the scr one.
Dear Chris,
The link to circuitmaker is not working... can you please send me
the JPG of the circuit with the modified SCR version ??
Regards/Mohammed Haris
Hello
Could I inquire Chris 7hVhycis their a modulaing frequency that
would be most beneficial.
Than you
Ray
Build a new Thumper and got some very interesting results with it. I
use a bridge rectifier on a 240Volt supply. In series with an oven
element of 2.2 KW to limit the current. Originally I used 3 650 uF
capacitors from old photo flash units, the SCR is rated for 30 amps
continuous. Now with the total capacity of 1950 uF I had a reasonable
strong magnetic field. I then replaced the photo flash capacitors with
high quality elyt capacitors. Also 3 X 650 UF. They are not flash rated
but are very large indeed. They have screw terminals on top and are
the size of rather large jam glasses. The interesting results are as
following, the capacity is the same but the large capacitors actually
generate pulses which are may be 50 to 100 times stronger as the
flash capacitors. Also I noticed that after 30 to 40 pulses the coil gets
so hot that its impossible to hold her in the hand. Also the original
capacitors got rather hot after a few discharges, the big capacitors
stay completely cool. One thing I have to be very careful is to keep
the coil away from monitors or television receivers. During the first
tests it magnetized the shadow mask of my monitor from a distance
of more then 6 feet. I had a hell of a lot of work to do to degauss the
tube. What I do not understand is that the overall capacity is the
same, but the results are spectacular different. Best Regards
Posted by: Jurgen Vogel on January 7, 2008 11:34 AM
Chris, can you please give me the modification for 240VAC version
of your pulser? Thanks
Hello Chris:
I am confused about how to attach the extension cord wire (or
speaker wire) to the coil itself. Beck explains:
Does he mean that the ends of the coil wire are attached to the
ends of the cord wires or soldered directly to the sides of the coil?
Response: Yes.
Chris
Hi, With regard to the 240 volt operation you should all be aware
that lone capacitor at the beginning is forming a voltage Doubler, so
removing it and shorting it out would lower the voltage to similar to
the that intended at the capacitor bank. I would also put the bulbs in
series if they are 110 bulbs. Although I have not tried it so take care,
and at your own risk of course.
They sell 100w step down transformers on ebay for about £15, or
300w for £27. Don't think 100w would be powerful enough but would
300w suffice? Not sure what the amperage is of this beastie! I
assume that it's at least 120w because of the 2 bulbs. Also if you visit
http://www.twotowers.com/beck/beck_emp.html and view Steffan's
pulser he put the live wire to the switch which seems to go straight to
the coil! Live to coil looks v dangerous. He said that a switch should
always work on the hot wire, which I agree. But if you look at the
diagram, that would lead the live to the coil, with no diodes blocking.
This would either shock you or just turn the coil into an electromagnet
without firing it off. Anyway, not sure if Chris's design should have the
switch just between the bulb and power as I would not normally wire
a bulb to the neutral wire alone and to go through all that circuitry to
get the live back or maybe Steffan is correct? He did say that it may
not matter about the polarity. After all it is AC and the nature of AC is
that is loops from plus to minus. I don't fully understand that though
because in that case then why can I not get a shock of a neutral wire,
but I would always get a shock of a live wire. Then there's something
I read recently that a switch should always be at the end of a circuit.
The only problem is if I do get a stepdown transformer I would have
to source 2 X 60w 110v bulbs and I'm not sure about the diodes,
would the higher voltage ones still block a reverse current? Still at
21p a diode I may as well replace them eh? The bulbs seem harder
to get, unless they are from china.
i would just like to ask chris or anyone here i just built my first
pulser and used old school modified camera flash. the flash is a vivtar
2000 model, what the power from a flash like that will produce out of
the coil? and second when i discharge the flash there is definitely a
pulse coming off the coil but the flash is not any dimmer than usual,
does that mean most of the power is not getting dumped to the coil?
And also to anyone who doesnt want to wind the coil, the msm
electronics is no longer selling them, but I found a company that does
sell almost all size, gauge, and mH coils
http://erseaudio.com/
Nearly there now guys. I tried wiring the scr every which way then
gave up and bypassed the SCR and resistor. Pop, the washer
jumped!! YAY!! BUT..... The SCR is good for holding the power down
until it dissipates as I found out when I got a shock. I'm still here! I
needed that!!! Anyway I could do with some help with alternative
SCR's please and how the 'ek you wire them. I am quite naughty!
Coz I ignored some peoples advice and went for wiring it up for 240v.
Sorry Jon. What I did was wire everything by the diagram with the live
going to the switch (even if I don't really like that, I would prefer the
switch to go just before the bulbs and to wire the live that way round.)
Because if this has been build 100s of times before it must be right!
Anyway the secret was to wire the capacitors in both parallel and
series. + to + and then - to + and + to the next - on the next cap. I got
660v rather than 330v that way, which I admit is fooooookin
dangerous but it works, and there is no chance of the caps blowing
that way. All capacitors ran cool and my switch has worked a few
times, I'm not planning on using it much without the SCR as I don't
think it's as safe without it. My smoothing capacitor for the bulbs is a
single 120uf 330v (I worked it out because my other caps are 660v) If
you look at Chris's brill plan the first cap is 150 v and the capacitor
bank is 300v so to me 330 and 660v seemed perfect. My problem
was that my SCR would not feed the caps. I had a multimeter placed
accross the capacitors initially to watch them charge. They charged in
about 1-2 seconds the first time then less then a second following
that. When I pressed the switch (with a plastic ruler) the coil thumped
and lights flickered and went out. I then unplugged the device and
watched the multimeter, back up to 660v so I pressed the button..
Thump again. Then I think the single capacitor must have been
charging the bank because the voltage went up to 330. This circuit as
it stands is v hard to discharge. I have left it upstairs with a massive
resistor across the cap bank. Another question is when unplugged
the actual plug seems to get a charge from the 330v cap! I put a
multimeter across and it read about 330v? Whats going on, should it
do that. I will say that I left the power switch in the circuit on, maybee
that has a lot to do with it. Please advise. I know I'm a monkey for
playing with 240v (or 660v)but at least I know it works, and I may as
well persevere with it. Another question I have is when you see Bob
Beck with the coil he actually puts his tongue on it and presses the
trigger. Stupid question (I'm not about to put my tongue on it now),but
does the coil now need to be heavily insulated so that I can hold it, or
is it still just a magnet that can't harm me? I have put insulation tape
around the connections to the black box, but just simple sellotape (for
now) around the coil, mainly to keep it together. Paul...