NIKKO SELECTING TOOL

KEY EMULSIFIERS

2017
 Purephos LC
Lecinol Series

Nikkolipid 81S

Purephos Alpha
Nikkomulese LH

Nikkomulese SE
Nikkomix CW (2)

Nikkomulese WO

Selachyl Alcohol V
Nikkomulese WO-CF

Nikkomulese WO-NS
Nikkomulese 41 / 41Eco
Deca(Tetra/Hexa)glyn serie
 Gel

O/W

O/Gel/W

O/Liquid Crystal/W

O/Polymer/W
Emulsion types

WO

W/Si

Bicontinuous ph.

Cream / Milk

Gel / Lotion
Textures
NIKKO SELECTING TOOL – KEY EMULSIFIERS – 2017

Fluid milky serums

Long lasting
hydration
Anti-inflammatory
*

Water resistance

SPF Booster
Quick Break /
Transform. formula
*

Cold process

Air pollution barrier

Anti wrinkle
Main claims

Improved skin
texture
Pigments dispersion

Transparency

Thixotropy
*Depending on the Deca(Tetra/Hexa)glyn grade
*

Evanescent texture
*

Rich texture
OK China (IECIC
*

082014)
Natural origin /
COSMOS
PEG free
Miscallenous

Cyclomethicone free
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TAKINOU VOL.2, 2017

DECAGLYN (TETRAGLYN, HEXAGLYN) SERIES (1/2) EMULSION – TRANSFORMATION

GREEN ORIGIN OR ECOCERT APPROVED

Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters = Natural ingredients with versatile applications:

Emulsifiers, dispersants, solubilizers, emollients…

35 GRADES – 9 COSMOS APPROVED
Trade name INCI name HLB
R: Hydrogen or fatty acid moiety
Nikkol Decaglyn 10-OV Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate -
Non ionic surfactants: pH and salt-tolerant Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 15.5

Polyglycerol structure: highly stable against chemical and physical stress (heating, Nikkol Decaglyn 1-M Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate 11.0
Nikkol Decaglyn 2-SV Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate 9.5
oxidation, acidic or alkaline stress…)
Nikkol Decaglyn 3-SV Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate 7.5
Oligomeric structure: low biological toxicity, no risks of skin penetration
Nikkol Decaglyn 5-ISV Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate 3.5
Plant origin / Some ECOCERT approvals: highly compatible with environment Nikkol Decaglyn 5-OV Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate 3.5

Wide range of cosmetic applications: very innovative textures Nikkol Decaglyn 5-SV Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate 3.5
Nikkol Decaglyn 7-HS Polyglyceryl-10 Heptaoxystearate 5.9
Has to work with HLB (wide range) – Often needs a co-emulsifier
(Nikkol MGS-BV2) Glyceryl Stearate 3
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TAKINOU VOL.2, 2017

DECAGLYN 1-M (2/2) CLEANSER – MASSAGE – TRANSFORMATION

Emulsifier for clear jelly – O/Glycerin emulsions COSMOS APPROVED

INCI Name: Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

% of use: 2-4% KEY 2017 TEXTURES

Water phase
Max. 40%, 800tpm, MELTING CREAM CLEANSER
Oily phase deflocculator
50°C, 800rpm, Lot.No.27-BAC-14
deflocculator CLEAR RINSABLE JELLY
Ref. FR-12297-1
SPARKLING MIDNIGHT MIST
Ref. FR-13218-1
BLACK SUGAR MASK WASH OFF
Nikkol Decaglyn 1-M
50°C, gentle stirring

Glycerin phase Clear gels Translucent gels or

10-50%, 50°C that turn to milks when Milky lotions
rinsed off with water (depending on the amount of water)

SPECIFICITY OF DECAGLYN 1-M - O/GL. EMULSIONS

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LECINOL S-10 / S-GF (1/2) SHORT INCI – SENSITIVE SKINS

GREEN ORIGIN
Emulsifier for sensitive skins Oil-in-Water (O/W)
INCI Name: Hydrogenated Lecithin KEY 2017 TEXTURES
% of use: 2-4%

MEN’S SKIN BARRIER SERUM

Irritant ingredients
O/W emulsifier / Stabilizer Ref. FR-0067D-15019

Plant origin / Soy derivative (Lecinol S-GF= GMO BLACK INTENSE GEL EYELINER

free) Lot No. 28-BGE-28

PEG free / Mild for the skin / Anti-irritant

Long lasting moisturizing effect
High amount of Phosphatidyl Choline (25-35%):
Excellent emulsifying properties and active
delivery
Hydrogenation step: very stable lecithin against REINFORCED SKIN BARRIER FUNCTION
oxidation Stabilized intercellular lamellar structure
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LECINOL S-10 / S-GF (2/2) SHORT INCI – SENSITIVE SKINS

GREEN ORIGIN
ANTI-IRRITANT ACTION

Closed patch / after 72h

ANTI-STINGING EFFECT

No penetration of anionic
surfactants

Healthy cells SLS (5%) + SLS (5%) +

(corneocytes) Non treated cells Cells treated with 1% Lecinol S-10

In vivo, n=13
Placebo = acrylates derivative

LONG MOISTURIZATION

In vivo test - 9 volonteers – 2 applications / day

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NIKKOLIPID 81 S (1/2) SENSITIVE SKINS – LUXURY TEXTURES

GREEN ORIGIN

Emulsifier with anti-inflammatory properties and long-lasting hydration: Perfect for High stability due to O/G/W system
sensitive skins.
Improves skin condition and skin barrier
INCI name: Batyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin Emulsifier + Active (all in one): stable and elegant O/W emulsions with
% of use: 2-4% anti-inflammatory / anti-stress properties
Anti-inflammatory effect (due to presence of Batyl Alcohol) / Synergistic
effect with ant-inflammatory actives
Oil-in-Gel-in-Water
(O/G/W) Improves skin penetration / delivery of actives (due to presence of
Lecithin)
Long lasting moisturizing effect
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NIKKOLIPID 81 S (2/2) SENSITIVE SKINS – LUXURY TEXTURES

GREEN ORIGIN
25

Rough KEY 2017 TEXTURES

TEWL Change Rate (%)

20

15

Normal 10 LUXURY LIFT CREAM Lot. No 27-MLC-7

(before 5
Nikkolipid 81S
treatment Cream
with solvent) 0

-5 No Ethoxylated
application surfactant
-10
Good of cream cream
-15 SKIN BARRIER IMPROVEMENT EFFECT

Rough skin improvement effect of Nikkolipid 81S (in vivo; 5 days after cream application)

Before After treatment Ethoxylated Nikkolipid

treatment with solvent: surfactant cream: 81S cream
with solvent skin becomes does not remove
rough skin roughness
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TAKINOU VOL.2, 2017

NIKKOMIX CW (1/3) BICONTINUOUS PHASE

INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate Mixture of non-ionic surfactants
% of use: 3-33% Liquid form -> Easy Handling
Low Energy -> No homomixer
Oil Bi-Continuous Phase Cold Processable
 Quick Development
Water

2 main applications
-> Cleanser / “Bi-continuous” cleansing water/oil
-> Skin Care / “Bi-continuous” serum translucent serum
Milky Lotion
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TAKINOU VOL.2, 2017

NIKKOMIX CW (2/3) BICONTINUOUS PHASE – STRONG CLEANSING – WET HANDS

Aqueous gels / Creams / oils

lotions High cleansing ability (keep KEY 2017 TEXTURES
Good
Cleansing power bicontinuous phase even with
Fresh after feel Good
humid environment) BLACK SLICK CLEANSING Lot. No.34-BSC-23
BICONTINUOUS MAKE-UP REMOVING WATER
During removal
Recommended dosage: ~30% Ref. FR-13345-3

After wash-off
CURRENT TYPES OF MAKEUP REMOVAL PRODUCTS
BI-CONTINUOUS CLEANSING FORMULA
1. Slower emulsification 2. Rinsable microemulsion CLEANSING ABILITY AGAINST WATERPROOF MASCARA
Equal amount of water and oil chanel Emulsified oils droplets become micelles
 Extra water doesn’t mean immediate  No re-adhesion and easy rinesd-off
emulsification Used with
DRY hands
Market Prod. A Liquid Cleansing Market Prod. B
Before Cleansing (bicontinuous type) Prepared by (conventional type )
NIKKOMIX CW

Used with
WET hands
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TAKINOU VOL.2, 2017

NIKKOMIX CW (3/3) BICONTINUOUS PHASE – SMOOTH EMULSIONS

Phase inversion (W/O to O/W emulsion) PH. Ingredients % w/w KEY 2017 TEXTURES
Low particle size for enhanced stability A PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Sorbitan 3,00
Oleate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
Low energy emulsification (Nikkomix CW) D-TOX ULTRA FINE SERUM
Low viscosity emulsion Ref. FR-0166K-16341
Mineral Oil 5,00
Milky Lotion HYDRATING LIFT FEELING LOTION
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5,00
Lot. No. 30-IWB-17
B Carbomer 0,30
Recommended dosage: ~3%
Xanthan Gum 0,10
1,3-Butylene Glycol 5,00
Phenoxyethanol 0,40
Water 75,90
C Arginine 0,30
Water 5,00
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TAKINOU VOL.1, 2016

NIKKOMULESE 41 / 41 ECO (1/2) LIQUID CRYSTAL – HYDRATION – SPF – WATERPROOF

N 41: GREEN ORIGIN

N 41 ECO: ECOCERT AND COSMOS APPROVED

Emulsifier for long lasting hydration O/GM/W emulsifier

INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Water resistance

% of use: 1-5% Long lasting emollient effect

SPF boosting effect in sun care formulations
Thickening effect
Oil-in-Gel Matrix-in-
Water (O/GM/W) Microbial stability: enables to reduce preservatives

Multilayer liquid crystal (with bound water phase)

Oil
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TAKINOU VOL.1, 2016

NIKKOMULESE 41 / 41 ECO (2/2) LIQUID CRYSTAL – HYDRATION – SPF – WATERPROOF

N 41: GREEN ORIGIN

N 41 ECO: ECOCERT AND COSMOS APPROVED
MOISTURIZING EFFECT
Evaluation by SKICON 301 at 23°C and 45 % relative KEY 2017 TEXTURES
humidity.
Results show that O/W emulsion based on NIKKOMULESE
41 provided longer lasting emolliency to the skin. WEEKEND REPAIR SERUM FOUNDATIONLot No. 34-WRS-14
PREMIUM CARE Ref. FR-0119R-15329

WATER RESISTANT ILLUMINATING ESSENCE Lot No. FR-27-ILZ-7

O/GM/W SYSTEM KEEPS SPRAYABLE SUN CARE REF. FR-0150AG-16260
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS ON BOUNCY BLUSH Lot No. CH924-2
SKIN AND IMPROVES
DELIVERY
Active ingredients, oil soluble or water soluble, were
separately added to three identical cream
formulations at 0.1% concentration.

Then each cream was evenly placed on slide glass

and left to dry at room temperature. After that the
slide glasses with cream were exposed to water for
30 minutes. The residue of cream was collected from
slide glass and residual amount of each active (%)
was evaluated.
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TAKINOU VOL.2, 2017

NIKKOMULESE LH (1/2) LIPOSOMES – ELECTROLYTE RESISTANCE – PUDDING-LIKE

INCI name: Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, GREEN ORIGIN

Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Squalane,
Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate
O/PM/W emulsifier
% of use: 3-5% Plant derived polymeric emulsifier
Possible “pudding-like” texture or less bouncy with addition of wax
Liposomes structure
Oil-in-Polymer Matrix-in-Water (O/PM/W)

Quick water release

Effective thickener
Strong eletcrolyte stability
Wide pH tolerance

INTERACTION BETWEEN A HYDROPHOBICALLY

MODIFIED POLYMER, SURFACTANT AND
HYDROGENATED LECITHIN
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TAKINOU VOL.2, 2017

NIKKOMULESE LH (2/2) LIPOSOMES – ELECTROLYTE RESISTANCE – PUDDING-LIKE

GREEN ORIGIN

KEY 2017 TEXTURES

HONEY-C OIL GELLot.No.12-VCSG-33

HEALTHY GREEK YOGHURT Ref. FR-0090U-15257
CRYO-TEM IMAGE
LIPOSOME IN AN AQUEOUS NIKKOMULESE LH
SOL. (0,135%)
LIPOSOME MEMBRANE: 8 NM THICK

Wide oils compatibility ELECTROLYTES STABILITY OF A

NIKKOMULESE LH AQ. SOL. (4,5%)
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TAKINOU VOL.1, 2016

NIKKOMULESE SE (1/2) SPRAY – QUICK-BREAK – MEMORY FORM

Emulsifier for ultra quick break effect ULTRA QUICK BREAK EFFECT
O/PM/Water emulsifier
Translucent quick break gel, was applied on artificial
Quick break
INCI Name: Sorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate, Sorbitan leather and rubbed several times
Gel cream or translucent gels
Sesquiisostearate, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, Low energy / Cold process
Acrylates/Begeneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, HLB-free
Dipropylene Glycol, Water Alcohol compatible
% of use: 3-5% Possibility to reach high SPF
with light textures

Oil / Polymer / Water

(O/P/W)
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TAKINOU VOL.1, 2016

NIKKOMULESE SE (2/2) SPRAY – QUICK-BREAK – MEMORY FORM

KEY 2017 TEXTURES

MANUFACTURING PROCESS

SE – WATER BREAK OCEAN GEL Lot. 06-WBG-32

Neutralizer Oily phase
Sodium or potassium hydroxide, Translucent gel: <10% SE – BRIGHTENING CIRCULATOR Lot. 06-SMC-17
Aqueous phase L-Arginine…. Gel-cream: 10-25%
Cream: 25-50%
SE – COOL COME-BACK GEL (LIGHT/RICH)
Lot. 12-CBG-28 / 12-CBG-27
SE – SUPER MILD CREAM REF. FR-0158AB-17045

SEW – JELLY EYE COLOR Lot No. N-ESG126-2

SEW – EVANESCENT 50+ Ref. FR-0056AP-14294

Gentle stirring Nikkol Nikkomulese SE

3-5%
(200-300 rpm for the Nikkol (4% for the best quick break effect)
Nikkomulese SE dispersion and 500-
1000 rpm for the emulsification step)

pH at least 2 points above the expected final pH 2nd option: Premix Nikkomulese SE with
(Optimum final pH: 6-8.5) glycol , then add water + neutralizer
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TAKINOU VOL.1, 2016

NIKKOMULESE WO / WO-CF / WO-NS (1/2) W/O or SI – THIXOTROPY – PIGMENTS

Water
Nikkomulese WO:
Disteardimonium
INCI name: Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite
Hectorite
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Nikkomulese WO-CF:
Disteardimonium
INCI name: Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite
Hectorite Oil
Phase
Nikkomulese WO-NS: Disteardimonium Hectorite

INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Disteardimonium

Disteardimonium Hectorite
Hectorite
Silicone-
type
% of use: 3-7% emulsifier

Enlarged illustration of gel

structure
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TAKINOU VOL.1, 2016

NIKKOMULESE WO / WO-CF / WO-NS (2/2) W/O or SI – THIXOTROPY – PIGMENTS

KEY 2017 TEXTURES

Non tacky, elegant and glossy textures with some specificities:
Evanescent textures for Nikkomulese WO / WO-CF 50% WATER ELEMENT FOUNDATION Lot No. 27-WCF-1
Richer texture, and possibility to obtain low viscosity products even with high inner FLUID POWDER FOUNDATION Lot No. 26-AMB-10-1
phase, for Nikkomulese WO-NS AQUA POWER GELEE Lot. 26-OGC-03
WATER RELEASE OCEAN GEL Lot. 42-WRW-17
Extremely easy to use and stable WATER-IN-LIP TINT Lot No. 28-WLG-12
Very stable fluid emulsions (even with high inner phase, WO-NS: max. 75% of water)
Thixotropic emulsions with excellent stability and spreading
Improved pigment dispersion in sun care products or fluid foundations
Active ingredients delivery
Oily continuous phase: an asset for the water resistance % of the oily phase
WO WO-CF WO-NS
Silicones 70-100% 60-100% 0-30%
Dimethicone (5-6cSt)
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TAKINOU VOL.1, 2016
PUREPHOS ALPHA (1/2)
O/W emulsifier with stable -Gel
structure and anti-pollution properties
INCI Name: Cetyl Phosphate
% of use: 0,7 – 2%
High level (>90%) of mono cetyl
phosphate
-> stable -Gel structure
HEALTHY AND BEAUTIFUL SKIN
THANKS TO PUREPHOS ALPHA !
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α GEL – ANTI POLLUTION – MULTIFUNCTIONAL/TAKINOU
COSMOS APPROVED (LEAVE-ON)
KEY 2017 TEXTURES
ALPHA MASK LOTION Lot. 27-SKL-9
WHITE CHOCOLATE SEALING CREAM Ref. FR-0096F-15182
LIPGLOSS WITH PUREPHOS α Lot.No 27-AOG-17
LIPURE PRIMER Lot No. 34-PLG-10
PURIFYING MASSAGE GELEE Ref. FR-0155Z-16239
EGG WHITE PACK Ref. SA-0011E-17025
Huge amount of water / High occlusive effect
Instant wrinkles and skin texture improvement
Anti-pollution effect
Crystallisation reduction
Unique, light feel for moisture-rich gel, milk, thick cream...
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TAKINOU VOL.1, 2016

PUREPHOS ALPHA (2/2) α GEL – ANTI POLLUTION – MULTIFUNCTIONAL/TAKINOU

COSMOS APPROVED (LEAVE-ON)

ANTI-WRINKLE EFFECT
After Acetone/Ether
After After application
6 male volunteers / Face / 30 mins / Diagnostic imaging (VISIA Evolution) defatting
application (Binarization)
(Before application)

PUREPHOS α

Placebo

SKIN’S TEXTURE IMPROVEMENT

2% Purephos  cream Placebo 5 male volunteers / 2% Purephos 

cream / Forearm / 30 mins / Cup
method - micrscope

AIR POLLUTION BARRIER EFFECT

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TAKINOU VOL.2, 2017

PUREPHOS LC (1/2) LIQUID CRYSTAL EMULSIONS – TRANSPARENT LC OIL GEL

INCI name: Arginine Hexyldecyl Phosphate Water as the external phase

% of use: 0,5 – 5% Already neutralized
High lamellar liquid crystalline ability
Strong moisturization
To be put in the water phase

Liquid Crystal

LIQUID CRYSTAL EMULSIFICATION TECHNOLOGY

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TAKINOU VOL.2, 2017

PUREPHOS LC (2/2) LIQUID CRYSTAL EMULSIONS – TRANSPARENT LC OIL GEL

KEY 2017 TEXTURES

LIQUID CRYSTAL ESSENCE Lot.No 22-PLE-7

PUREPHOS LC GEL Ref. FR-0126A-15286
PURE OIL COCKTAIL PACK Lot.No 06-ASG-30

LIQUID CRYSTAL ABILITY IN WATER

MOISTURIZING EFFECT OF NIKKOL PUREPHOS LC

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TAKINOU VOL.2, 2017 NEW IN-COSMETICS 2017

SELACHYL ALCOHOL V (1/1) W/O – HIGH WATER – COST EFFECTIVE FORMULAS

INCI Name: Oleyl Glyceryl Ether Precursor structure of lamellar PARTIALLY GREEN ORIGIN

% of use: 2% crystal
KEY 2017 TEXTURE
Water-rich W/O emulsifier (more
than 80% water)
WO SELACHYL ALCOHOL V CREAM Lot.No 43-VCA-11
Emulsifier-Free concept
MOISTURE DELIVERY HAND CREAM Ref. FR-0164L-16320
Excellent sealing and water
EXTRA MOISTURE DELIVERY HAND CREAM Ref. FR-0164AO-17019
Reversed Hexagonal resistance

A Selachyl Alcohol V 2,00

Squalane 8,00
B Glycerin 5,00
Magnesium Sulfate 0,50

90% Phenoxyethanol 0,40

Water Water 84,10
Phase
Polarized microscopy (100x)
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THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION

All the enclosed datas have been sourced from Nikkol group technical documentations/presentations