Allure USA June 2017

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THE BEAUT Y EXPERT

JUN

RS’ CH
DE
O
A

IC
RE

E
AW

2017
A
E

RD N
WIN

READERS’
CHOICE
AWARDS
Your 54
Winning
Products

SMASHING
BEAUTY’S
GLASS
CEILING

THE LAST

zoe
SAFE PLACE
Our Writer Goes
Inside Planned
Parenthood

Kravitz
On Her Parents,
Her Meteoric Rise,
And That Hair
THE BEAUT Y EXPERT

“People always
ys
ume I’m
assume
much moreore
hippie-dippy
hippie-dip
pie-dipppy
than am.”
n I am.
am
JUNE

IN THIS ISSUE
BEAUTY REPORTER
35 Look We Love: A Streak of
Brilliance

36 Editors’ Favorites
40 Colorist Cassondra Kaeding’s
Rooney Mara Confession and
Her Favorite Coloring Job • Sodium
Without the Negative Effects

110
SHINE ON
Five dreamy, glittery,
FASHION
42 Elements of Style. Model and
folk singer Karen Elson pairs
florals with an acoustic guitar.

46 The Bright Side. Allure’s


happy looks to try now accessories director gets inspired
by her roots.
ROE ETHRIDGE

Polyester dress by
Wanda Nylon. Eyeliner
in Baroque by
Lancôme. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

2 ALLURE JUNE 2017


JUNE
NEWS & TRENDS 104 Who Run the (Beauty) REGULARS
World? For decades, the top
22 My Look. Talking Beauty With hairstylists and makeup artists 12 Contributors
Ilfenesh Hadera. The Baywatch have been men—now that’s finally
star on the iconic red one-piece, 16 Cover Look
changing. By Liana Schaffner
cat-eye struggles, and the oil 20 Editor’s Letter
she splurges on. 110 Sparkles Fly. Colorful glittery
makeup that’s as pretty as it 26 Beauty by Numbers
28 Beauty School. We got to the is eye-catching. By Lexi Novak
bottom of this runway lash trend. 116 Shopping Guide

50
50 Readers’ Choice Awards. 118 Autobiography. Ellie Kemper
The 49 hair, makeup, and skin-care fills in the blanks.
products Allure readers swear by.

63 Readers’ Choice
Breakthroughs. We asked you to
pick the best beauty innovations READERS’
of the year. Here are the five CHOICE AWARDS
new products worthy of the term You voted; we
“breakthrough.” counted: the 49
winning products
69 Skin Special. The Light Within. Allure readers
Experts weigh in on seven skin
can’t live without.
issues and how to solve each one.

74 Beauty Passport. Playing


Dirty. One writer finds a centuries-
old beauty ritual among fine
wine, truffles, and a lot of pasta.

FEATURES
78 Zoë. The daughter of a rock
star, Zoë Kravitz grew up wanting
to blend in. The actress reveals
whom she’s inspired by and how
she’s different from her Big Little
Lies character. By David DeNicolo

86 The Last Safe Place. Kathy


Dobie spends a few days at
a Planned Parenthood center in
southern Arizona.

94 The Resistance in Bloom.


Flowers and their grand gestures.
By Danielle Pergament

98 Taking the Plunge. Make


a splash in these bold, graphic,
daring bathing suits.
GRAHAM POLLACK (PROP STYLIST: JENNIFER TRAN)

ON THE COVERS
Zoë Kravitz’s look can be re-created with the following: Top Secrets
Lip Perfector, Eyeliner Effet Faux Cils Shocking in Majorelle Blue, and
Full Metal Shadow in Eau d’Argent by Yves Saint Laurent. Silk dress
by Topshop Bride. Hair crown, custom-made by hairstylist. Hair clips
(on crown) by Urban Outfitters. Tourmaline-sapphire-garnet-and-
peridot earrings by Daniela Villegas. Earrings, Kravitz’s own. Gold
body chain by Jacquie Aiche. Photographed by Patrick Demarchelier.
Fashion stylist: Beth Fenton. Hair: Nikki Nelms. Makeup: Tom
Pecheux. Manicure: Rieko Okusa. Set design: Josephine Shokrian.
Details, see Shopping Guide.

4 ALLURE JUNE 2017


.COM
ALLURE

Beauty Beyond
1
BINARIES
Activist Janet Mock opens eyes—and minds—
about the definition of beauty in her new
biweekly column for allure.com.
I can’t discuss my beauty journey without mentioning my
best friend.
I met Wendi Miyake two decades ago, when I was an insecure
seventh grader. I worried about my acne-prone complexion, my
curly Afro, and my inability to be seen as the girl I knew myself
to be. With her green bob and liner-rimmed eyes, Wendi was
unapologetic about her identity as a transgender girl. Her
audacity to be herself inspired my fullest self-expression.
The morning after our first sleepover, Wendi pulled out
her purple Kaboodle and sent me to homeroom
with tweezed brows, shimmering eye shadow,
and a silver barrette. The girls in class lauded
2 my look, and I felt beautiful, a term that had
seemed elusive—until Wendi.
Now a makeup artist, Wendi and her kit
have been present for many milestones:
senior prom, both of my book-cover
shoots, my wedding. The world may have
dismissed my hair texture, multiracial
skin tone, and gender expression—but my
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

best friend intervened, showing me that


5
beauty was expansive, empowering, and free
from restrictions.
It is in that spirit that I’m here to announce Beauty
Beyond Binaries, my new column for allure.com that will cover
everything from the politics of presentation and the
undervaluing of femininity to pretty privilege (yes, it’s real!),
3 femmephobia, and why glam is vital to survival. Beauty culture
should be inclusive and affirming—and that’s the mission of
this deliberately feminist space.
I hope you will join me in it.
1. “This was in St. John. I had just gotten a haircut from Anthony Dickey of Hair
Rules, and I loved the way my curls dried with the salty seawater.” 2. A selfie-
stick portrait of Miyake and Mock. 3. “With Wendi in 1999, when I wore nothing
but microbraids.” 4. Mock’s new memoir, Surpassing Certainty (Atria Books).
4 5. Miyake giving Mock a touch-up before her wedding.
EDITOR IN CHIEF
MICHELLE LEE
CREATIVE DIRECTOR EXECUTIVE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
MARIE SUTER DANIELLE PERGAMENT AMANDA MEIGHER PHILLIP PICARDI

B E AU T Y FAS H I O N
EXECUTIVE BEAUT Y DIRECTOR FASHION DIRECTOR
JENNY BAILLY RACHAEL WANG
DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR ACCESSORIES DIRECTOR
ELIZABETH SIEGEL NICOLE CHAPOTEAU
SENIOR BEAUT Y EDITOR ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR
JESSICA CHIA JENNA WOJCIECHOWSKI
BEAUT Y EDITOR
LEXI NOVAK A RT I C L E S
ASSOCIATE EDITOR


BEAUT Y ASSISTANT
What will KATHLEEN SUICO LOREN SAVINI

you do with the


extra hours
of daylight? P H OTO
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
JESA MARIE CALAOR

A RT
DESIGN DIRECTOR

Apply that much
more sunscreen.
RENEE RUPCICH
VISUALS DIRECTOR
RHIANNA RULE SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
NICOLE ARGENTO
BOOKINGS DIRECTOR
RO PENULIAR
P RO D U CT I O N
SENIOR VISUALS EDITORS
DEPUT Y MANAGING EDITOR
JACQUELINE LADNER, HOLLY WATSON
NICOLE STUART
ASSOCIATE VISUALS EDITOR
DEPUT Y PRODUCTION DIRECTOR
HANNAH CHOI
GRETCHEN VITAMVAS
PRODUCTION MANAGER
BRENT BURKET

R E S E A RC H C O PY


RESEARCH DIRECTOR COPY DIRECTOR
LORI SEGAL CATHERINE GAMBRELL
RESEARCH MANAGERS COPY MANAGERS
AMBER ANGELLE, CRISTINA RIVERA AURA DAVIES, LESLIE LIPTON
Rejoice!

Daylight is a
photographer’s
best friend.
A L LU R E .C O M
DEPUT Y DIGITAL EDITOR SAM ESCOBAR


DIGITAL DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR SOPHIA PANYCH
DIGITAL BEAUT Y EDITOR SABLE YONG
DIGITAL WELLNESS EDITOR HALEY M AC MILLEN
DIGITAL EDITORS ELIZABETH DENTON, JIHAN FORBES Wear my
DIGITAL PRODUCTION MANAGER MONICA PERRY sunglasses at
SENIOR VIDEO PRODUCER MAYA MARGOLINA
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL BEAUT Y EDITOR SARAH KINONEN
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR DEVON ABELMAN
ASSOCIATE PREDITOR ANNA ST YPKO

night—and date
myself with
these ’80s lyrics.
DIGITAL EDITORIAL ASSISTANT SHAMMARA LAWRENCE
SENIOR PRODUCT MANAGER CATHY ZHANG
ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT LINDSAY SANSONE
ANALY TICS MANAGER TULIKA SINGH

SOCIAL
SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR TERRON MOORE
SENIOR SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER RAWAN EEWSHAH
SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER REBECCA SHINNERS
ASSOCIATE SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER LARA ADEKOLA

CONTRIBUTING EDITORIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, PUBLIC RELATIONS


PATRICIA ALFONSO TORTOLANI ERIN KAPLAN
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS CONTRIBUTING ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR
JILLIAN DEMPSEY, DAVID D ENICOLO, LAURA MORGAN
MEIRAV DEVASH, JOLENE EDGAR,
SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR
FRANCIS KURKDJIAN,
MEGAN SALERNO
BROOKE LE POER TRENCH,
CHRIS McMILLAN, JUDITH NEWMAN, ASSISTANT BUSINESS MANAGER
LIANA SCHAFFNER TAYLOR SHEA

FO U N D I N G E D I TO R
LUCAS VISSER

LINDA WELLS

ARTISTIC DIRECTOR
ANNA WINTOUR

8 ALLURE JUNE 2017


CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER
KIMBERLY KELLEHER
HEAD OF BRAND MARKETING & STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, FINANCE & OPERATIONS
JILL STEINBACH FRIEDSON KEVIN DONOVAN
HEAD OF DIGITAL REVENUE
NICOLE AMICO SMITH

A DV E RT I S I N G D I G I TA L
EXECUTIVE DIRECTORS DIGITAL SALES DEVELOPMENT MANAGER
KIM CONWAY HALEY, SAMANTHA DANA


LAUREN DECKER LERMAN, SANDRA MAURIELLO DIGITAL CAMPAIGN MANAGER
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR– ERICA CHEUNG
FASHION, JEWELRY & WATCH DIGITAL SALES PLANNER
Enjoy that SARAH YORK RICHARDS ELIZABETH MILLER

sunlight DIRECTOR
CARLY GRESH CONTENT MARKETING
with a glass & PA RT N E RS H I PS


of rosé and a
fresh coat of
SPF.
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
HARRIET KADAR, ALISON WOOD

MANAGER
ALEXANDRIA HAUGHEY

EXECUTIVE SOUTHWEST DIRECTOR


EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CONTENT MARKETING
ALEXIS WALL
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, STRATEGIC
SAMPLING & E-COMMERCE
LEAH ASHLEY
EZRA SEAN ALVAREZ 323-965-3564 STRATEGIC SAMPLING MANAGER
NICOLE SAFIR


EXECUTIVE MIDWEST DIRECTORS
CHRISTINA KROLOPP 312-649-6731 MARKETING & BUSINESS
ANGIE PACKARD PRENDERGAST 312-649-3509 OPERATIONS ASSOCIATE
BECCA LEVENSON
PACIFIC NORTHWEST DIRECTOR
NATALIE BANKER TAQUINO 415-955-8280 Go for runs
I N T EG R AT E D M A R K E T I N G
NEW ENGLAND & C R E AT I V E S E RV I C E S outside—or
What will KRISTIN HAVENS 585-255-0207 EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR rooftop happy
you do with the
extra hours
of daylight?
DIRECT RESPONSE
REBECCA VOLK
800-753-5370 EXT. 489

ITALY
ERIN BRENNAN
DESIGN DIRECTOR
MARIS BODELL
SENIOR DIRECTORS
STEFENI BELLOCK, CHRIS MANCIVALANO

hours. I plan
to split those
50/50.
ELENA DE GIULI
011-39-02-655-84223 DIRECTOR
JUSTIN REIS
U.K./FRANCE
SELIM MATARACI 011-33-1-44-78-00-62 SENIOR MANAGER
MALLORY MILLER
SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTOR
SHERRI GINSBERG
M A R K E T I N G S E RV I C E S
SALES ASSOCIATE EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
CAROLINE GRANGER GERARD FARRELL
INTEGRATED ASSISTANTS SENIOR DIRECTOR,
ZUIE BILLINGS, ALEXANDRA KELIKIAN, MARKETING INTELLIGENCE
CARA KURICA, STEPHANIE TILLISON JENNIFER FRIEDMAN PEREZ

P U B L I S H E D BY C O N D É N AST
CHAIRMAN EMERITUS S. I. NEWHOUSE , JR.
PRESIDENT & CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER ROBERT A . SAUERBERG, JR.
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER DAVID E . GEITHNER
CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER & PRESIDENT OF REVENUE JAMES M. NORTON
EVP & CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER FRED SANTARPIA
CHIEF HUMAN RESOURCES OFFICER JOANN MURRAY
CHIEF COMMUNICATIONS OFFICER CAMERON R. BLANCHARD
CHIEF TECHNOLOGY OFFICER EDWARD CUDAHY
EVP–CONSUMER MARKETING MONICA RAY
SVP–MANAGING DIRECTOR, 23 STORIES JOSH STINCHCOMB
SVP–NET WORK SALES & PARTNERSHIPS, CONDÉ NAST
& CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER, CNÉ LISA VALENTINO
SVP–FINANCIAL PLANNING & ANALYSIS SUZANNE REINHARDT
SVP–AD PRODUCTS & MONETIZATION DAVID ADAMS
SVP–LICENSING CATHY HOFFMAN GLOSSER
SVP–RESEARCH & ANALY TICS STEPHANIE FRIED
SVP–DIGITAL OPERATIONS LARRY BAACH
SVP–HUMAN RESOURCES NICOLE ZUSSMAN
GENERAL MANAGER–DIGITAL MATTHEW STARKER

C O N D É N AST E N T E RTA I N M E N T C O N D É N AST I N T E R N AT I O N A L


PRESIDENT DAWN OSTROFF CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE JONATHAN NEWHOUSE
EVP/GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL VIDEO JOY MARCUS PRESIDENT NICHOLAS COLERIDGE
EVP & CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER SAHAR ELHABASHI Condé Nast is a global media company
TIM HOUT

EVP–MOTION PICTURES JEREMY STECKLER producing premium content for more


EVP–ALTERNATIVE T V JOE LABRACIO than 263 million consumers in 30 markets.
EVP–CNÉ STUDIOS AL EDGINGTON CONDENAST.COM
SVP–MARKETING & PARTNER MANAGEMENT TEAL NEWLAND CONDENASTINTERNATIONAL .COM

10 ALLURE JUNE 2017


CONTRIBUTORS

NIKKI
NELMS
She’s thrown safety pins into
updos and gone thrift-store
shopping with one of the
most famous women in the
world, and she bakes a mean
peach cobbler. Meet Nikki
Nelms, influential hairstylist
slash Renaissance woman.

Nelms at One Stop


Main Beauty
Supply in Brooklyn.
Left: on set with
Zoë Kravitz.

W
hile most women music-video production. Next
spent their thing she knew, she was putting
middle-school jewelry into hair for Timbaland
years doing and Magoo’s “Indian Flute” music
things that girls video. In short order, her clientele
do in middle school, Nikki Nelms came to include the A-list—our
was starting a business. “I’ve cover star Zoë Kravitz, Solange,
been doing hair since I was in the and Björk. And through it all,
seventh grade,” says Nelms. At 12 Nelms has refused to be typecast.
years old, the industrious young One day, a sculptural braided bun
woman was taking requests for Kravitz. Another day, loose pin
from her friends and family in her curls for Janelle Monáe (yes, she’s
hometown of St. Petersburg, also a client). Despite Nelms’s
Florida. Twenty dollars per success, she never really saw her
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

French roll (or braid). A move to life playing out this way. “I didn’t
Miami put her in the hotbed of think of hairstyling as being
something glamorous,” she says.
Then again, coming from
someone who has gone vintage
shopping in Japan with Beyoncé,
“glamorous” is a relative term.

“I get random accessories for my kit


from thrift and craft stores,” says Nelms,
who has used everything from googly
eyes (left, on Janelle Monáe) to safety
pins to create showstopping hair.

12 ALLURE JUNE 2017


COVER LOOK

Zoë KRAVITZ Behind the scenes at


Allure’s cover shoot.

M y mother just bought


a donkey.” Safe to
say that’s not a line
we’ve heard before at
an Allure cover shoot.
But when the subject is
Zoë Kravitz and her
costars include a Bengal
cat and a white dove, nothing is off limits. The star
of this month’s Rough Night (and the daughter of
Lenny Kravitz and Lisa Bonet) cozied up with a veritable
menagerie for photographer Patrick Demarchelier.
“I love animals,” she said. Other loves: a pair of
custom-made silk slippers from stylist Beth Fenton
that she slipped on, a soy chai-spiced tea, and
an eclectic mix of music. With the actress-singer’s
iPhone hooked up to the speakers, the New York
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux drew points along Kravitz’s
lower lashes “very roughly, like a child would do.”
These pages: For fashion credits, see Shopping Guide.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PATRICK DEMARCHELIER; ROBERT MASSMAN (2)

City studio was filled with Life of Pablo tracks,


gospel, and songs by Childish Gambino, adding to Watch a behind-the-scenes video of Zoë Kravitz’s cover
the surreal feel of the day. —JESA MARIE CALAOR shoot at allure.com/zoe-bts.

16 ALLURE JUNE 2017


COVER LOOK

BEAUTY
LESSON

Hair
Kravitz’s look can be The styling began several days
re-created with the following before the shoot, when hairstylist
(below, clockwise from Nikki Nelms began weaving
top): Top Secrets Lip
Kravitz’s white-blonde hair into tiny
Perfector, Eyeliner Effet
braids that would serve as the
Faux Cils Shocking in
Majorelle Blue, and Full Metal backdrop for her artful creations.
Shadow in Eau d’Argent Once the braiding was complete,
by Yves Saint Laurent. out came the crown that Nelms
had created with rose-gold wire
and hair and adorned with earrings
and stones.

Makeup
“[Her bone structure] is perfection,”
FROM TOP: ROBERT MASSMAN; LIAM GOODMAN

said makeup artist Tom Pecheux,


who kept Kravitz’s contouring and
highlighting to a minimum. He
dusted pink shadow on her eyelids,
blended a shimmering white shade
around the inner corners, and drew
blue points under the lower lash
lines with liquid liner. He finished
with a dab of clear lip balm.

18 ALLURE JUNE 2017


LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Push Comes
to Shove
t’s really easy for me to get—and stay—
comfortable. Camping? Not my thing.
walk through common areas, which are decidedly
kitschy: Pepto-pink Victorian chairs, gurgling fountains,
Ultraendurance mud races? Rather not. In fact, glittery plastic plants, golden lion statues, and giant
I’d feel very much at home in Scandinavia amethyst geodes.
amidst its many hygge disciples on the hunt for It’s a go-big-or-go-home kind of place. The pinnacle is
all things cozy. the “fire room”—the ghost pepper to every other room’s
That said, I’ve battled my natural jalapeño—which reaches up to 392 degrees Fahrenheit
leanings toward comfort for most of my life, (hot enough to bake a chicken). I couldn’t muster the
understanding that growth (and sometimes courage to enter but watched as others emerged from
silly fun) happens when you push yourself. My the dark cave, covered in heavy burlap blankets to
latest stretch into the abyss? A day at the massive protect their skin, drenched, red-faced, and spent.
40,000-square-foot King Spa & Sauna in Palisades Another boundary-stretching observation: Other
Park, New Jersey. Such supercenters, called jjimjilbang, guests had zero inhibitions about nudity. I’m no prude. At
are popular in Korea, and now more of these spa the same time, I’ve also never been that lady drying her
amusement parks are popping up in other corners of the hair naked in front of the communal sink. T-shirts and
world. This place is not for the faint of heart. Think of it shorts are provided and required in the saunas. But in the
as a bathhouse for maximalists. locker rooms and bathing pools, almost everyone—of
First, I got an aggressive (yet effective) massage from every age and body type—let it all hang out and seemed
a petite Korean woman who tossed my limbs around like completely, unabashedly, comfortable in her own skin.
a baggage handler with a grudge (I mean that in the best The whole experience got me thinking about how much
way possible). The rest of my four-hour visit was spent we all obsess over swimsuit season and our ridiculous
exploring different saunas—including an infrared room, a body quibbles. We worry so much about what other
yellow-mud room, and a mineral-salt room—and then people think about our bodies when honestly, guys, no
occasionally ducking into the ice room, lined with frost- one else cares. Realistically, I’m more likely to spend a
coated coils and spruce sprigs, to cool off. Each space few minutes in the fire room than I am to hang out towel-
looks different: some covered with stone or clay less among strangers anytime soon. But this summer, I’m
FROM TOP: BEN STOCKLEY; HANNAH CHOI

walls, some with bags of salt and other also trying to adopt a more jjimjilbang attitude
minerals hanging down from domed toward my body, no matter what’s covering it.
ceilings. As you leave each sauna, you I’d call that progress.

Michelle Lee, Editor in Chief


@heymichellelee
20 ALLURE JUNE 2017
MY LOOK
Talking Beauty

WITH
ILFENESH
HADERA She conquered the
“I’m big on brows,” says
Hadera. Her go-to:

iconic Baywatch Anastasia Beverly Hills


Perfect Brow Pencil
swimsuit, no problem. (above). Suede jacket by
Helmut Lang. Swimsuit
But nailing a cat eye?

t
by Kopper & Zink. Earrings,
That’s another story. Hadera’s own. Makeup
By Elizabeth Siegel colors: MoistureSmooth
Color Stick in Pink Nude
and Healthy Skin Blush
in Rosy by Neutrogena.
These pages: Fashion
stylist, Turner. Hair: Nikki
Providence. Makeup:
Natasha Severino. Details,
see Shopping Guide.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY
GUY LOWNDES
COURTESY OF ANASTASIA BEVERLY HILLS

here are moments when you know you’ve made it—one of those moments sneaked up on
Ilfenesh Hadera from behind a bush. “Dwayne [Johnson] is like, ‘There’s a camera there, there,
and there,’ ” says Hadera. She was smack-dab in the middle of a paparazzi stakeout. “I’m flexing.
I’m in a bathing suit. These guys are hanging out in the bushes. The next day, you’ve got
50 photos of yourself from every angle online.” She wasn’t caught in some steamy affair
or snapped during a tropical getaway. But when those paparazzi lenses zoomed in on
the 31-year-old, Hadera (who has an Ethiopian father and a European-American mother and
was born in New York City) became a bona fide movie star. It was her first day playing Stephanie
Holden on the set of the new Baywatch movie in a cherry-red number inspired by the world’s
most famous one-piece. “You think of Pam Anderson and what she looked like in hers,” says
Hadera, imparting some one-piece wisdom: “Gotta arch your back.”

22 ALLURE JUNE 2017


MY LOOK

Swimsuit by Eres.
Details, see
Shopping Guide.

“I’m not too adventurous with makeup,”


says Hadera. “I’ve found my things and
I stick to them.” Among her favorites:
Guerlain Terracotta The Bronzing
Powder in Moyen Blondes and L’Oréal
Paris Voluminous Original Mascara.

On stepping into the red bathing suit: “They’re fairly


racy and skimpy one-pieces. You’re thinking, I need
to whip my butt into shape.”
On why dinners were less fun: “I did lots of low
weights, lots of reps, a lot of swimming. It was just
full-body nonstop. In the month leading up, I cut
out alcohol. That was just a killer, but it’s the fastest
way to drop weight. You don’t want to believe it is,
because you want your wine.”
On rewards: “It’s unrealistic to think you’re going
to stay in that shape forever. You’d kill yourself.
So there was a light at the end of the tunnel. I went
to a restaurant in New York City called Raoul’s—it’s
an institution—and had steak au poivre and all the
fries and all the wine. It was so good!”
On newfound beach habits: “Sunscreen all the time,
which I haven’t always used. When I was a teenager,
I would just bake in the sun, which is a terrible thing
to do, and now I see my little crow’s-feet coming in....
And I have wavy hair, so I use Bumble and Bumble
Surf Spray. It keeps my hair from getting frizzy and
lets it do what it does—I’ll spray it, put it in a bun,
and get a nice wave.”
On bathroom fails: “A million Q-tips die in the
making of my cat eye. My fiancé is like, ‘How are we
out of Q-tips again?’ I use a Sephora waterproof
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

liquid eyeliner in black.”


On her own insecurities: “I haven’t always had great
skin. I don’t care if you’re in the best shape or you’ve
got the nicest head of hair—when your skin is bad, you
“When you find a skin- just feel like you don’t want to be seen. It just sucks.”
care routine that’s On relieving guilt: “I started using La Mer Renewal
good for you, it’s like Oil, which is like heaven—it makes your skin glow-y
gold,” says Hadera. and dewy. If my mom knew how much I spent on
After cleansing, she
it she would slap my wrists, but you gotta do what
mists her face with
you gotta do. Maybe I’ll get her one so I don’t feel
Caudalie Beauty Elixir
and moisturizes with La guilty about it.”
Mer The Renewal Oil.
Ilfenesh Hadera shares her biggest beauty mistake and more
at allure.com/ilfenesh-hadera.

24 ALLURE JUNE 2017


BEAUT Y BY NUMBERS

Mermaids
To the Greeks, they’re a sailor’s weakness. To us, they’re a Hans
Christian Andersen story, a YouTube sensation, or the logo
on our coffee cups. But no matter how many times we see them,
this archetype never fails to make waves. —JESA MARIE CALAOR

8 HOURS IT TOOK
actress Daryl
Hannah to put on
her handpainted
mermaid tail for
the 1984 film Splash.

2,163, 289
20
NUMBER OF TIMES (and
counting) Rose’s “mermaid
makeup” tutorial has been
viewed on Instagram and
YouTube since it was posted
just under a year ago.
NUMBER OF
makeup products
Monica Rose
uses in her
iridescent “mermaid
makeup” tutorial.

2016
THE YEAR #MERMAIDTHIGHS
hit social media. The hashtag
refers to thighs that touch and
promotes body confidence.
6 YEARS
AFTER SALLY
RIDE became
the first
American woman
in space that Disney
animators used
footage from her
expedition to mimic
the movement
of Ariel’s hair under
water in The

4
Little Mermaid.
CARTER SMITH/ART+COMMERCE

SHADES OF MANIC

125%
GROWTH IN THE
PANIC that colorist
Aura Friedman uses
to create purple-
and-blue-streaked hair.
number of Google
searches for “mermaid
hair” between 2014
and 2015.

26 ALLURE JUNE 2017


T H E T I P S , T H E S H O R T C U T S , A N D A L L T H E S T E P - B Y- S T E P S

Beauty School

DOWN
UNDER
Our top lashes usually
get all the attention,
but it may be time for a change
of perspective. By Lexi Novak
FROM TOP: COREY TENOLD; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

JEREMY SCOTT, FALL 2017

28 ALLURE JUNE 2017


BEAUT Y SCHOOL

BOTTOM
OUT
Exaggerated, spidery, or
glittery—this season’s lashes
stuck to the bottom line.

Alanna Arrington
(left) and Slick
Woods backstage at
Jeremy Scott

1
For the doll-eyed look at Jeremy
Scott, makeup artist Kabuki cut TOTAL
strip lashes into narrow sections TEASE
and spaced them out along the Unlike dense mascara bristles,
lower lash line. To pull off this the small comb on CoverGirl’s
look, you’ll need guts—and falsies new Total Tease wand rakes
designed for the top lashes (ones through bottom lashes without
for the bottom are too short). clumping. To prevent smudges,
hold a mascara shield (or
Glue the longest clumps onto the
credit card) under the
middle of your lash line for a lashes before
cartoonishly rounded effect. swiping.

2
The chunky lower lashes at
MSGM were inspired by Twin
Peaks—both are surreal and a
little eerie. Hold a mascara wand
vertically as you sweep it back
and forth across the lower lashes
until they’re this spidery. It’ll
work even better if you use
a ball-tip mascara wand, like It
Cosmetics Hello Lashes. FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

3
At Tadashi Shoji, makeup artist
Pep Gay used liquid liner to
approximate the look of thick fake
lashes—he drew stripes under
the lower lash line (right on the
skin) and then added silver glitter
between each “lash.” He used
loose glitter and lash glue, but a
glittery liner, like M.A.C. Superslick
Liquid Eye Liner in Nocturnal,
creates the same effect.

30 ALLURE JUNE 2017


T H E B E AU T Y N E W S YO U N E E D T O K N O W N O W

Beauty Reporter
Hairstylist James
Pecis left pieces
out around the
hairline for a
windswept effect
at Issey Miyake’s
fall show.

LOOK WE LOVE

Modern Art
If the works in the Mauritshuis came to life overnight, the halls
would be filled with Dutch ingenues, all bathed in golden light
(and hopefully doing more with their new freedom than pouring milk
and staring into the middle distance). The star of this midnight ball
would be Vermeer’s Girl With a Pearl Earring. But in our fairy tale she
ditches the blue turban and goes for something way more festive,
like the brightly colored bands hairstylist James Pecis created for the
IMAXTREE.COM

Issey Miyake runway. Pecis wrapped a section of each model’s hair


around her head, then blended temporary color sprays over it. It was
an effect worthy of a Dutch master. —LOREN SAVINI

JUNE 2017 ALLURE 35


BE AUT Y REPORTER

Urban Decay Tenant Palette.


This is a work of art. No,
really. It’s wrapped in Jean-
Michel Basquiat’s Tenant, and
the rainbow of eye shadows
inside lets you indulge in
your own free-form color play.
$39 ($57,284,961 less
than an untitled Basquiat that
sold at Christie’s last year).

EDITORS’
FAVORITES
Basquiat at his studio in
Venice Beach, California,
in 1984, photographed
by Brad Branson

THE STUFF WE PLAN TO


STEAL FROM THE
Foreo Espada.
BEAUTY CLOSET WHEN
Behold the NO ONE’S LOOKING.
highest-tech
of spot
Buly Eau Triple
treatments.
fragrances.
Shine this blue
Direct from an
LED light on
apothecary shop
pimples for 30
on Rue Bonaparte,
seconds twice
these alcohol-
a day to help
free fragrances
shrink them
are now available
without drying
in the U.S. The
skin. $149.
quirky scents (like
mint-lemon and Vichy Minéral 89.
sandalwood-violet) That’s 89 as in the
last all day. Shake percentage of mineral
before spritzing water in this ultralight
to revive the serum. The other 11
water emulsion. percent? Hyaluronic acid
$158 each. and glycerin that also
leave skin quenched and
seriously soft. $29.50.
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFES)

Nars Lipstick and Liquid Blush in


Orgasm. Our love affair with the iconic
blush has us reaching, well, multiple
orgasms. (Oh, grow up.) The OG
pinkish-peach shade now
comes in two other forms:
a sheer lipstick and a liquid
cheek stain. $28 and $30.

36 ALLURE JUNE 2017


BEAUT Y REPORTER

BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE

CASSONDRA
KAEDING

i t was a Tuesday. It was probably


one of those southern California
days you could order from a
catalog: sunny, bright, perfect.
Cassondra Kaeding, now a
colorist at Sally Hershberger in Los
Angeles, had only recently moved
up from her assistant role at Warren-
Tricomi Salon when an actress
From left: Kaeding; client Rooney Mara.

to shy away from a Herculean hair-


color feat. When she was about eight,
she tinted her neighbors’ baby-
blonde hair hot pink using the best
tool available to an eight-year-old—
Kool-Aid. Perhaps not surprisingly,
“I got in trouble,” she says.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF SUBJECT; ANTHONY HARVEY/GETTY IMAGES; LIAM GOODMAN
plopped into her chair. She was A couple of decades later, that
wrapping up a new movie and wanted same daring has earned Kaeding
to maintain her character’s raven- much more positive attention. One
black hair. The actress: Rooney Mara. of her personal favorites: a
The movie: The Girl With the Dragon shimmering gold-blonde color that
Tattoo. The result: success for all. she created for one of Effie Trinket’s
Kaeding, who now calls Amber wigs in The Hunger Games. “There’s
Valletta, Ciara, and Kate Hudson no such thing as metallic hair color,
clients, has since confessed to Mara and glitter looks patchy and falls
what a novice she was at their first off,” she says. “So I created this really
meeting. “We laughed about it,” she awesome blonde on the wig, and
says. And they still work together— then airbrushed metallic gold body
Kaeding took Mara from inky paint over it. It was malleable, so you
brunette to platinum last year (in two could move it and style the hair.”
appointments and a total of nine Eye-catching. And almost as scrappy
hours). Kaeding has never been one as Kool-Aid. —LEXI NOVAK

TA K I N G N OT E S

JUST A PINCH
From left: Hermès
Eau des Merveilles
Bleue, Michael
Kors Turquoise,
It is, in a word, flavor. No surprise that salt has Maison Margiela
inspired wars. But it doesn’t just make food worth Replica Beach
eating (and, we’d argue, life worth living). Some of Walk Dry Oil, and
the best fragrances are also made far more delicious Paco Rabanne
by ingredients (like seaweed extract) used to Olympéa Intense.
approximate the aroma of salt.
These mineral notes add
depth to fruity, floral,
and citrus scents and
play up the smokiness of
woody ones, explains
Linda Song, a
perfumer at
Givaudan. Here are
four new examples
you’ll want to
savor. —JESSICA CHIA

40 ALLURE JUNE 2017


NOTES

ELEMENTS
of

STYLE PHOTOGRAPHED BY
JEFF HENRIKSON

FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS
What makes a floral print really
sing? Model and folk singer
Karen Elson—whose latest album
is out now—pairs whimsical retro
blooms with her favorite
accessory: an acoustic guitar.
Jersey top and pants by Prada. Ring,
Elson’s own. Makeup colors: Lash Power
Flutter-to-Full Mascara and Chubby
Plump & Shine Liquid Lip Plumping Gloss
in ‘Normous Nude by Clinique. These
pages: Fashion editor, Rachael Wang.
Hair: Shingo Shibata. Makeup: Chiho
Omae. Manicure: Alicia Torello. Details,
see Shopping Guide.
NOTES: ELEMENTS OF STYLE

“MY STYLE IS PART ’20S,


PART ’90S: BETTE DAVIS MEETS
HELENA BONHAM CARTER.”

Clockwise from above:


a Polaroid from her
first modeling job; Jo
Malone London Red
Roses Cologne; Vogue,
2008; in the Zaldy
spring 2005 show.

Below: Elson
performing in New
York City in 2010.

Satin jersey dress by Michael Kors Collection.


Silk sandals by Miu Miu. Necklace, Elson’s
own. Details, see Shopping Guide.

FAVORITE
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

THINGS
POEM: “‘Double Roses’ by Sam Shepard
inspired the name of my album [left].”
FRAGRANCE: “Jo Malone London Red
Roses.” SKIN CARE: “Sisley Black Rose
Precious Face Oil.” FACIAL: “Dr. Colbert’s
Triad when I’m in New York.” JEWELRY:
“A Catbird necklace with my kids’
initials.” DESIGNER: “Oh, my God, Dior
is so dreamy right now.” ALBUM:
“Father John Misty’s new record.”
VACATION: “Iceland in the summer.”

44 ALLURE JUNE 2017


NOTES: EDITOR’S OBSESSIONS

1 2

3 4

The
Bright Side Allure accessories director
7

1. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
LEATHER BAG. “Reminds
Nicole Chapoteau draws me of the wild colors and
patterns of Haiti’s tap-tap
inspiration from her buses.” $2,100, at Salvatore
Haitian roots and the Ferragamo stores.
5 country’s vibrant culture. 2. LEVOY EXIL, LOA, 1995.
“My favorite Haitian artist.
I grew up with his work in
my family’s home.”
6 3. CÉLINE SUNGLASSES.
“A cool, modern vibe.” $405,
at Solstice Sunglasses stores.
4. MARYSIA SWIMSUIT.
“Cutouts give the illusion
of a bikini but are way
more forgiving.” $348
(marysiaswim.com).
5. MIU MIU SPRING 2017.
“A fun collection filled with
retro prints and silhouettes.”
6. ROXANNE ASSOULIN
8 BRACELETS. “Forget
wrists; these are going on
my ankles!” $75 each
(roxanneassoulin.com).
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

7. RED VALENTINO SKIRT.


“It’s crochet, so you can wear
it to the beach, to lunch,
or to dinner.” $1,195 for similar
9 styles (redvalentino.com).
8. AWAY SUITCASE.
“Four words: built-in
phone charger.”
$225 (awaytravel.com).
9. AUSTRALIAN GOLD
SUNSCREEN. “Blends so
well, and it’s nonchemical.”
$15.99 (australiangold.com).
10. ALUMNAE SUEDE
10 MULES. “The perfect shape
for summer—or any
season.” $525 (alumnae.nyc).

46 ALLURE JUNE 2017


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READERS’

APH
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THE BALLOTS ARE IN. THE VOTES ARE COUNTED.

EP
O
THE WINNERS ARE READY FOR THEIR DRUMROLL. THESE ARE
CHOICE

IBL
THE 49 SHAMPOOS, SERUMS, LIPSTICKS, AND MORE THAT ALLURE READERS

AN
C
HAVE ANOINTED WITH THE ULTIMATE TROPHY. BY ELIZABETH SIEGEL

PROP STYLIST: HANA AL-SAYED; JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (GOLD DROPS)


AWARDS
2017
R E A D E R S ’ C H O I C E AWA R D S

SKIN FACIAL CLEANSER


Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser
Face & Body. The OG creamy
soap—which won’t strip away the oils
that keep skin dewy—just turned 70,
but it doesn’t look a day over 20.
FACIAL SCRUB
St. Ives Fresh Skin Apricot Scrub.
This 13-time winner moisturizes with
apricot extract and buffs away dry
spots with biodegradable walnut-
shell powder (it’s more eco-friendly
than many of its peers).
FACIAL MOISTURIZER
Clinique Dramatically Different
Moisturizing Lotion+. It’s everything
you want in a daily moisturizer—
long-lasting hydration for any skin
type—without all the stuff you don’t.
There’s no residue, no breaking out
your skin.

“I’LL SPLURGE ON GLAMGLOW


SUPERMUD CLEARING TREATMENT
FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE. MY SKIN
JUST ISN’T THE SAME WITHOUT IT.”
—KYLE KERCHAERT

FACIAL SUNSCREEN
Neutrogena Clear Face Liquid-
GRAHAM POLLACK (PROP STYLIST: JENNIFER TRAN)

Lotion Sunscreen SPF 55. The SPF


value is high, not that you’d know FACE MASK
it—the light lotion rubs in quickly GlamGlow SuperMud Clearing
and actually makes skin feel silky Treatment. This dove-gray paste
(not sunscreen-y) so you can wear (it’s made for mask selfies) detoxifies
Clockwise from above left:
foundation on top. as it hardens—kaolin clay sucks oil
St. Ives Fresh Skin Apricot
out of pores and brings pimples to
Scrub, Clinique ANTI-AGING PRODUCT a head as it dries.
Dramatically Different
Olay Regenerist Regenerating
Moisturizing Lotion+,
Serum. One of the active ingredients EYE CREAM
and GlamGlow SuperMud Clinique All About Eyes. The cream
is a peptide that’s long been a
Clearing Treatment. in this little pink pot works mini
dermatologist favorite for getting rid
of lines. miracles, simultaneously tightening
bags with caffeine and minimizing
crow’s-feet with whey protein and
vitamin E.

52 ALLURE JUNE 2017


2017
MASCARA
Benefit They’re Real Mascara. It
never fails to deliver long, fluttery
lashes that won’t clump.
CONCEALER
Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer.
MAKEUP
This creamy liquid—which comes in
16 shades—is really pigmented but
easy to layer.
BB/CC CREAM
It Cosmetics Your Skin But Better
CC+ Cream. It’s the next best thing
to walking through life with your own
soft-focus lens.
FOUNDATION
Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Invisible
Cover Foundation. Dear Allure
readers: Thank you. We started using
From left: E.L.F. lipstick this natural-finish foundation on your
in Velvet Rope, Make Up recommendation, and our skin has
For Ever foundation in Y535, never looked better.
It Cosmetics CC cream in
Medium, and Urban Decay
NAIL POLISH
Naked2 (Chopper and Foxy). OPI Nail Lacquer in Big Apple Red.
It’s bright and glossy, like freshly
washed cherries.
MAKEUP BRUSH
Real Techniques Blush Brush.
This works as well as (way) more
expensive brushes. Its soft bristles
give you the perfect flush of color
exactly where you want it.

LIPSTICK
E.L.F. Moisturizing Lipstick in
Velvet Rope. This is one bold cherry
red, but it’s surprisingly easy to
wear—the formula hydrates lips, so
it won’t feather or crack.
LIP GLOSS/CRAYON
NYX Butter Gloss in Crème Brulee.
This pinkish-peach gloss is a sexpot
nude; the sweet scent lives up to its
caramelized inspiration.
BLUSH
Nars Blush in Orgasm. A provocative
name will get you a little attention—
but not 16 wins. That credit goes to a
GRAHAM POLLACK (PROP STYLIST: JENNIFER TRAN)

golden peachy-pink shade that works


sun-kissed magic on every skin tone.
EYE SHADOW
Urban Decay Naked2. It’s a palette
unicorn: Not one of the glistening,
eye-brightening nudes in this “THE IT COSMETICS YOUR SKIN
12-shadow set will go unused.
(The matte black won’t, either.)
BUT BETTER CC+ CREAM
HAS FULL COVERAGE BUT
EYELINER
Kat Von D Tattoo Liner in Trooper.
FEELS LIKE YOU’RE
Whether you want a thin line or a WEARING NOTHING AT ALL.”
cool cat eye, this black liquid liner is —CANDACE CAREY
up to the task. It goes on smooth,
precise, dark, and glossy.

54 ALLURE JUNE 2017


2017
R E A D E R S ’ C H O I C E AWA R D S

SCRUB
Bath & Body Works Aromatherapy
Stress Relief Eucalyptus Spearmint
Sugar Scrub. This stuff leaves skin
crazy soft, and the minty smell
BODY
reminds us of a sexy men’s cologne.
LOTION
Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion.
Cute breezy sundress, meet
oatmeal—one of the most reliable
moisturizers out there, it makes skin
silky and ash-free for up to 24 hours.
SUNSCREEN
Neutrogena Beach Defense Water +
Sun Protection Sunscreen Spray SPF
70. This spray sinks in so quickly
(there’s no discernible smell or shine)
that we’d forget all about it if we didn’t
have to reapply every two hours.

From left: Jergens Natural


Glow + Protect Daily
Moisturizer, Secret Fresh
Collection, and Bath &
Body Works Eucalyptus
Spearmint scrub.

TOOTH WHITENER
Crest 3D White Classic Vivid
Whitestrips. The 9.5 percent
hydrogen peroxide on these strips
works so well, we can drink as
many cappuccinos as we want...
and that’s a lot.
SELF-TANNER
GRAHAM POLLACK (PROP STYLIST: JENNIFER TRAN)

Jergens Natural Glow + Protect Daily WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE


Moisturizer With Sunscreen. You Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb. Man, this

“MY DRY SKIN JUST wear sunscreen all summer anyway


(right?), so it’s pretty genius that this
perfume is good—the 12-year-old
classic is sweet and floral, like
DRINKS IN AVEENO DAILY SPF 20 is also a gradual self-tanner. candied rose petals, and it brings
MOISTURIZING LOTION AND Use it daily to get a wherever-you-go-
to-the-beach-y glow.
back lots of happy memories.

LOOKS SO MUCH BETTER MEN’S FRAGRANCE


DEODORANT
EVERY TIME I USE IT.” Secret Fresh Collection. Don’t worry
Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò. This
fragrance smells crisp and bright, like
—KAYLEY SHIMMIN about armpit checks—this sea air over citrus groves.
antiperspirant leaves a clean scent on
skin for up to 48 hours. (But really:
Find a scent you like because it will
linger until the next morning. We love
Wild Sugar and Luxe Lavender.)

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“THE DEVACURL LIGHT DEFINING GEL


DEFINES MY CURLS, ZAPS ALL FRIZZ,
AND LEAVES NO CRUNCH.
HAIR
MY HAIR STAYS SUPER SOFT.”
—JOY COHEN

SHAMPOO
Pantene Pro-V Daily Moisture
Renewal Shampoo. It smells amazing
(like sweet-almond oil), rinses clean‚
From top: DevaCurl
and makes hair glossy without
Light Defining Gel and
weighing it down.
L’Oréal Paris Superior
CONDITIONER Preference Fade-
Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair Deep Defying Color + Shine
Conditioning Mask. Until we all quit System in Deep
hot tools—yeah, right—this creamy Burgundy.
almond-oil-rich mask will keep our
hair shiny and healthy. Use a small
dollop after every shampoo; lay it on
thicker as a weekly treatment.
CURL DEFINER
VOLUMIZER
DevaCurl Light Defining Gel.
Living Proof Full Dry Volume Blast.
This gel is water-based and
Mist on this finishing spray and
alcohol-free, which is key for
GRAHAM POLLACK (PROP STYLIST: JENNIFER TRAN)

lightweight aerospheres and


noncrunchy curls—scrunch it into
polymers fill in the spaces between
wet hair and your spirals will dry
individual strands of hair, so it looks
soft and touchable.
like you have twice as many of them.
HOT TOOL
DEFRIZZER
Chi Ultra Chi Hairstyling Iron. This
John Frieda Frizz Ease Original 6
workhorse heats in seconds and
Effects Serum. The original silicone
smooths hair in one or two passes.
serum has been fighting the good
fight against frizz for 25 years. The HOME HAIR COLOR
formula hasn’t changed one bit in all L’Oréal Paris Superior Preference
that time—because it works. Fade-Defying Color + Shine System.
Covering grays at home is risky, so
we’re grateful to have a reader-
approved line of 53 shades with the
nuance and gloss of salon color.
2017
R E A D E R S ’ C H O I C E AWA R D S

NATURAL
FACIAL CLEANSER
BareMinerals Clay Chameleon
Transforming Purifying Cleanser.
Detoxifying clay yanks gunk out
of pores without drying skin.
FACIAL MOISTURIZER
Drunk Elephant Lala Retro
Whipped Cream. It’s loaded with
moisturizing oils, so it makes skin
look dewy right away. From left:
FACIAL SUNSCREEN BareMinerals Clay
Alba Botanica Sensitive Mineral Chameleon
Sunscreen SPF 30. It takes a second Cleanser,
BareMinerals Ready
to blend it in, but once you do, it
Blush in The Natural
doesn’t leave behind a chalky cast.
High, Honest
BODY WASH Beauty Lip Crayon
Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Body in Coral Kiss,
Wash. The clean-laundry scent, and BareMinerals
the milky suds—everything about Correcting
this body wash is comforting. Concealer in
Medium 2. (Yes,
BODY MOISTURIZER you guys love
Josie Maran Whipped Argan Oil BareMinerals.)
Body Butter. It’s packed with argan
and coconut oils and gives your
limbs a glow that lasts for hours.
MASCARA TINTED MOISTURIZER
SHAMPOO/CONDITIONER BareMinerals Flawless Definition BareMinerals Complexion Rescue
Aveeno Pure Renewal Shampoo and Mascara. It’s hard to find a natural Tinted Hydrating Gel Cream. It’s a
Conditioner. This sulfate- and mascara that won’t smudge or sweep! We get why you’re obsessed.
phthalate-free shampoo sudses up flake—but you did. It also makes lashes BareMinerals’ tinted moisturizer
without irritating sensitive scalps; the superdark and impressively long. makes skin look fresh and dewy, even
conditioner is just as coddling. when you’re tired as hell.
EYE SHADOW
STYLER BareMinerals Ready Eyeshadow 8.0 LIPSTICK
Carol’s Daughter Monoi Oil Sacred in The Power Neutrals. This palette Burt’s Bees Lipstick in Juniper Water.
Strengthening Serum. It smells of eight neutrals has a sexy twist: The Natural oils and vitamin E make lips
like a beach vacation, smooths frizz shades shimmer in the sun and come silky—and the rich raspberry color is
on contact, and even makes hair with how-tos for soft smoky eyes. the perfect pink-y red.
stronger over time.
BLUSH LIP GLOSS/CRAYON
GRAHAM POLLACK (PROP STYLIST: JENNIFER TRAN)

BareMinerals Ready Blush. This Honest Beauty Truly Kissable Lip


powder (which comes in eight muted, Crayon. Dusty rose, rich berry,
natural shades) has the faintest hint sheer caramel—this chubby crayon
of shimmer to make cheeks glow. comes in 12 gorgeous wear-every-
day shades.
“THE BAREMINERALS FOUNDATION
BareMinerals Original Foundation.
READY EYE SHADOWS It’s a loose powder but leaves
ARE BUTTERY SOFT AND a glow-y finish. Plus, the gentle
THE ALLURE
LONG-LASTING, EVEN mineral formula won’t exacerbate
redness or acne.
NATURAL STANDARD
WITHOUT A PRIMER.” CONCEALER
Every product on this page is
free of parabens, phthalates,
—DEB CHRISTIANO BareMinerals Correcting Concealer. sodium lauryl sulfate, triclosan,
This is one serious concealer that talc, mineral oil, petrolatum,
won’t cake or crease, so you can formaldehyde, toluene, and
layer until dark circles disappear. chemical sunscreens.

60 ALLURE JUNE 2017


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BREAKTHROUGHS
CHOICE
A SIP OF COFFEE,
READERS’
A SWIPE OF LIPSTICK—
MOST MORNINGS ARE
PRETTY ROUTINE. BUT
EVERY NOW AND THEN,
SOMETHING COMES ALONG
TO SHAKE IT ALL UP.
THIS YEAR, THERE WERE
FIVE SOMETHINGS—THE
BEAUTY PRODUCTS
INNOVATIVE ENOUGH FOR
YOU TO DEEM THEM
BREAKTHROUGHS. THEY
BRIGHTENED UP YOUR
SKIN, SPED UP YOUR
PROP STYLIST: HANA AL-SAYED

BLOWOUT, AND FREED UP


TIME FOR IMPORTANT
THINGS. LIKE A SECOND
CUP OF COFFEE.
BY ELIZABETH SIEGEL C
OIBLAN
Y MAXIME P
ED B
GRAPH
PHOTO
2017
R E A D E R S ’ C H O I C E AWA R D S

MAKEUP
Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Concealer
You tapped, you swiped, you crossed your fingers—and
you found a keeper. This is the rare concealer that checks
all the right boxes. It comes in a wide range of shades,
and each one is designated “Y” or “R” (for yellow or red
undertones), so it’s pretty easy to find your best match.
Plus it covers dark circles really well, really fast—and you
don’t need to do any fancy maneuvering to blend. “Heavily
pigmented concealers can be thick and hard to spread,
but this one balances high pigment levels with an ingredient
called dicaprylyl carbonate that keeps the formula ‘wet,’ ”
explains cosmetic chemist Ni’Kita Wilson. “It’s soft and
smooth on skin because it contains lots of emollients, like
dimethicone.” It’s also loaded with more surprising
ingredients, including amino acids that brighten skin. “If
you took the pigments off this ingredients list,” says Wilson,
“I would say I was looking at an eye cream.”

NAILS
Essie Gel Couture
On the upside, a gel manicure lasts
a superlong time without chipping.
SKIN
Bioré Baking Soda
On the downside, if it doesn’t look
perfect it will look not-perfect for Cleansing Scrub
a superlong time without chipping. Not to ruin cupcakes for you or
That’s where Essie’s gel polish anything, but the same white
comes in. It has a wide, rounded powder that makes them chewy
brush that’s “more user-friendly than and delicious is also good at
most—it fits the contours of your degunking your pores (warned
cuticle, so you can press down and you). “When you mix baking soda
the color fills in the nail perfectly,” with water, a mild desincrustation
says manicurist Holly Falcone. If you solution is formed,” says Wilson.
look at it really carefully, you’ll see “On your skin, the force of that
the brush’s stem is twirled like reaction pushes some oil out of
a Twizzler. The design is meant to your pores.” When you pop open
dispense exactly the right amount this bottle and pour its powdery
of polish‚ so you get a smooth contents into your hand, you’re
application of color without “any getting baking soda plus other
globby drops that ruin a manicure,” powders, like silica, “that also soak
she says. Our least-exacting tester up oil; it’s a really clever mix,” says
gave it a go, and her manicure Wilson. She suggests using it daily
turned out smooth and glossy—and for oily skin or weekly for normal
stayed that way for seven days. to dry complexions—and mixing
it with plenty of water as you
massage it over your skin: “The
more water you add, the more
effective it’ll be.”

64 ALLURE JUNE 2017


2017
R E A D E R S ’ C H O I C E AWA R D S

HAIR
Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer
Four minutes, 17 seconds: That’s how long it
took for the Dyson to dry one tester’s hair,
and her hair is thick. But maybe that’s not
so surprising when you consider another
number: $71 million. That’s how much Dyson
spent on R&D to build this blow-dryer.
“The first time I saw the Dyson blow-dryer, it
was like seeing an iPhone for the first time—
a glimpse into the future,” says hairstylist
Adir Abergel. “It’s truly revolutionary. It
seals the hair’s cuticle quickly to enhance
shine, it’s light in the hand, and my clients
love it because it’s so quiet, we can actually
have a conversation without struggling
to hear. There’s no other blow-dryer like it.”
It’s also a game changer for curls, adds
hairstylist Frank Rizzieri, a cofounder of
Fourteenjay Salon in New York City: “You
can lower the heat and airflow enough
to dry curls without making them fuzzy or
frizzy. Having that kind of control is unique.”
You can also crank up the heat if you
choose because this dryer is calibrated to
dry your hair without passing 302 degrees.
“Dryers that get hotter than that—and
most do—dull and damage hair quickly,”

BODY
says cosmetic chemist Jim Hammer.

Dove Dry Oil Moisture


Body Wash
This creamy cleanser smells
coconutty—it reminds us of Maui (or
what we imagine Maui smells like)—
but that’s not even close to its best
feature. “It’s got the kind of long-term
moisturizing claims you normally
see on a body lotion, not a body wash,”
says Wilson. It’s flecked with capsules
of heavy-duty moisturizers, like lauric
acid, and argan, sunflower-seed,
and soybean oils. “When the capsules
dissolve in water, the oils and fatty
acids are released and stick to your
skin. They replace some of the natural
oils that your skin loses whenever
you cleanse,” says Wilson. Two of the
ingredients—lauric acid and soybean
oil—also help make your skin’s
moisture barrier stronger over time,
so the more you use this wash, the
softer your body will be.
SKIN SPECIAL
On Alexis Jae: Silver
earrings by Erin
Considine. Tinted Lip
Oil in Caramel Cloud by
Burt’s Bees. These
pages: Fashion stylist,
Emily Dawn Long. Hair
and makeup: Katy
Albright. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY
NIKKI KRECICKI

LIGHTThe
WITHIN
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

SO YOUR SKIN ISN’T GLOWING LIKE IT’S PLUGGED IN? THERE’S


PROBABLY MORE THAN ONE REASON. THERE MIGHT BE CLOSER
TO SEVEN. AND WE HAVE BRIGHT IDEAS
FOR HOW TO DEAL WITH EACH ONE. BY LEXI NOVAK
i
SKIN SPECIAL

can’t define it, but I know it when I see it.” The famous dictum was uttered by Supreme Court
Justice Potter Stewart upon hearing a case about radiant skin. (OK, maybe he was talking
about something else, come to think of it.) Anyway, you get the point: Skin with that ineffable
glow is hard to define. It seems to come from eight hours of sleep, a well-balanced chi,
and inner beauty. But good news for those of us short on any of the above: It also comes from
a few great products and some excellent advice on how to use them. We’ve identified every
saboteur standing between your skin and that elusive lit-from-within-ness—and come up with
a very concrete plan to unseat it. (And by “we,” we mean us and top dermatologists.) Whether
you need a simple at-home solution or more intense professional backup, here’s your guide to
fixing whatever is dimming your epidermal wattage.

PROBLEM: PROBLEM:

DEAD SKIN SKIN ISSUES


CELLS—THEY’RE CAUSE STRESS,
EVERYWHERE. WHICH CAUSES
No, you’re not seeing things—that PROBLEM:
SKIN ISSUES,
probably is an ashy tint on your
face. “We shed millions of skin cells A FOSSIL-FUEL- WHICH...
a day, so unless you do something
to actively remove the ones that
BASED ECONOMY A work deadline, an argument, or

don’t fall off naturally, you’re going AND EASED a bad night’s sleep has you a little
on edge. Then you hear the most
to have a grayish look no matter
your skin tone,” says Mona Gohara, ENVIRONMENTAL obnoxious three words ever strung
together: “You look tired.” Whatever
an associate clinical professor of
dermatology at Yale School of
REGULATIONS form stress takes, the result is
Oh, yes, that’s also a skin-care concern. the same. “Cortisol levels go up, your
Medicine. Think of that dead-cell
Polluted air contains a host of tiny fight-or-flight response kicks in,
buildup like dust. Until you wipe it
particles, like dirt and sulfur dioxide, and blood flow goes to your vital
clean, it’s a dingy layer that prevents
that create free radicals on skin. organs, not your face, leading to skin
your skin from reflecting light.
Free radicals damage collagen (hello, looking sallow,” says Gohara.
SOLUTION: Mist some Pledge on a new wrinkles!) and stimulate pigment SOLUTION: Being told to relax or
face wipe—kidding, please don’t do production over time—and when your get more rest tends to raise cortisol
that. But you are going to need to skin’s tone and texture are uneven, it levels further rather than lower
gently exfoliate once or twice a week. diffuses light and looks dull. them, so we’ll skip the obvious
“Scrubs with sugar or jojoba esters
SOLUTION: Wash your face at advice for now. Instead, try a quick
are mild enough for even sensitive
night—every night. If the day’s filth facial massage while cleansing or
skin, and grainy scrubs with pulverized
lingers, it will damage your skin while applying moisturizer. “It’s a great way
nut shells are good for everyone else,”
you sleep. (But feel free to skip a to stimulate blood flow, which will
says Joshua Zeichner, the director of
morning wash.) “Because pollution add radiance and plump the skin,”
cosmetic and clinical research in
causes inflammation and can disrupt says Gohara. For a more lasting glow,
dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital
the skin barrier, it’s important to consider a microdermabrasion
in New York City. (Try First Aid
choose a gentle creamy cleanser that session at a dermatologist’s office.
Beauty Facial Radiance Polish.) Peels
helps build it back up,” says Zeichner. It will remove dead skin cells and
use alpha and beta hydroxy acids
(Try Olay Luminous Brightening boost circulation.
to remove dead skin cells; look for
Cream Cleanser.) Studies have shown
formulas that contain soothing
that using soap with a cleansing
ingredients, like aloe and green tea,
brush is more effective at removing
to minimize irritation. (We like Drunk
nanoparticles of pollution than manual
Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial.)
cleansing. (Facial wipes aren’t
thorough enough to remove pollution,
but if you’re too tired to wash your
face, they’re better than nothing.) In
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

the morning, load up on serums


and lotions that contain antioxidants,
like vitamin C and idebenone. “It’s
like having a safety net to minimize
potential damage from pollution’s free
radicals,” says Zeichner.

70 ALLURE JUNE 2017


SKIN SPECIAL

PROBLEM:
Left: Dress, stylist’s own.
Model (right): Marley Parker. IT’S IMPOSSIBLE
TO AVOID THE
SUN ENTIRELY.
We don’t know anyone who gets
excited to discover a new sun spot
on her face. Even less thrilling?
Allover hyperpigmentation, which
can result in mottled skin. Sun
damage is also a main cause of
weakened collagen—and the slack,
dull skin that comes with it.
SOLUTION: We know you know, but
do it: Wear. Sunscreen. No treatment
will be effective as long as your
skin is still exposed. Next—and, OK,
you probably know this, too—use
a product with retinol every night. It
will protect existing collagen from
breaking down and build more of the
structural protein, says Gohara.
Then add in a serum or a cream with
a brightening ingredient, like kojic
acid or arbutin (try iS Clinical Pro-Heal
Serum Advance+) to fade dark spots.

PROBLEM:

HORMONES GO
OUT OF WHACK.
When hormone levels fluctuate—
PROBLEM: because of puberty, menopause,

YOUR SKIN IS “FACIAL MASSAGE IS A medications, or other uncontrollable


circumstances—they often affect
GREAT WAY TO STIMULATE
DEHYDRATION BLOOD FLOW, WHICH
the appearance of skin. Just look at
what happens when estrogen dips,
STATION. WILL ADD RADIANCE leaving a higher proportion of
Without moisture, your skin looks testosterone: Skin can get oilier,
AND PLUMP THE SKIN.” and greasiness creates a surface
dull, but the problem is deeper
than you may realize. And we mean shine that accentuates pores and
that literally. “Loss of hydration makes your skin look less glow-y.
from below the skin’s surface—in PROBLEM: And melasma, a hormonal form
the dermis and the lower levels
of the epidermis—causes a decrease
YOU’RE NOT of hyperpigmentation, leaves you
with dark patches that don’t fade
in thickness of the skin,” says GETTING YOUR with topical brighteners because
the pigment takes hold in both the
Zeichner. “Think of a deflated
balloon: It doesn’t shine as well as DAILY SERVING uppermost and deeper layers of
an inflated one.”
OF...METAL? skin, says Arielle Kauvar, a clinical
professor of dermatology at NYU
SOLUTION: Pat on a hyaluronic Trace minerals are vital to forming Langone Medical Center.
acid serum with damp fingers the body’s natural antioxidants,
to drive moisture deep into skin. which protect the components of SOLUTION: Blotting sheets and
(Try SkinCeuticals H.A. Intensifier.) healthy, radiant skin, says Draelos. But clay masks get excess oil off
Then layer a moisturizer with it’s difficult to get the recommended your skin. But if that’s not enough,
powerful emollients, like cetyl alcohol daily amounts from food alone your dermatologist can prescribe
or dimethicone, on top. (Olay Total (current farming practices are causing a medication, like the Pill or
Effects 7-in-One Anti-Aging Daily soil to become increasingly nutrient- spironolactone, to treat the hormonal
Face Moisturizer is a good choice.) bare, according to a study in the cause of oiliness. For stubborn
“Emollients create a thin, transparent Proceedings of the National Academy melasma, ask your dermatologist
film over the skin’s surface,” says of Sciences). about prescribing hydroquinone
Zoe Diana Draelos, a consulting or obliterating the pigment with
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

SOLUTION: Pop a daily multivitamin. a YAG laser or Fraxel treatment.


professor of dermatology at Duke
Draelos says to look for one that
University. That film will help skin
includes selenium, copper, iron, and
cells lie flat and reflect light better.
zinc. The required amount of each
depends on your age and sex, so clear
the breakdown with your doctor first.

72 ALLURE JUNE 2017


Beauty
PASSPORT
UMBRIA, ITALY

NEWS, TREATMENTS, AND OUR LATEST OBSESSIONS FROM ABROAD

Cleansing
with mineral-
rich clay is
an Umbrian
tradition.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: SVEND LINDBAEK; KOTY 2; GETTY IMAGES

PLAYING
DIRTY
The Umbrian countryside
offers truffles, Orvieto
Classico—and a centuries-
old beauty secret.
By David DeNicolo
B E AU T Y PAS S P O RT

T hough I am here to talk about the earth


(clay to be precise), the first thing you
will notice is the sky. You’ll hear proud
locals refer to Umbria as the “green
heart of Italy” more times than you can
count (OK, OK, basta!) because it’s
smack in the middle of the country,
and the fertile hillsides are awash in
emerald. Green has its virtues, but it
doesn’t have the breathtaking power of
an Umbrian sky at dusk, transforming
from terra-cotta to butter yellow to pale
gray-blue before yielding to the stars.
The town of
Nocera Umbra

IT’S AN ENERGY
It’s as if heaven were touching earth.
There are similarities to its neighbor,

FROM THE LAND—


Tuscany, but Umbria is less refined
(that’s a compliment), less swooned

RAW, UNTAMED.
over, and every bit as seductive. This is
a spiritual place, a land of saints and

This work of
martyrs, of evangelists and hermits. And although every little town is
art, created by
Rometti dominated by stone churches, there is something pagan about the
exclusively for Umbrian hills, too. It’s an energy from the land—raw, untamed.
Fresh, appears Where the pagan and the Christian meet is Assisi, in the teachings of
on every the mystic friar St. Francis. Francis wasn’t some nutjob preaching to the
limited-edition birds (though he did that, too). He was a visionary who saw God, and by
jar of Fresh’s extension beauty and love, in all of creation. It’s hard to overstate how
Umbrian Clay deeply radical a notion this was in the thirteenth century—and is today,
Purifying Mask.
for that matter. The white limestone basilica built after his death houses
a jaw-dropping collection of frescoes by the Florentine master Giotto,
who clearly took his cues from the ethereal blue of the sky, the russet of
the earth, and the golden aura of the Umbrian sun.
Assisi (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and several of the other hill
towns—Orvieto, Spoleto, Montone, Todi—are certainly worth a stroll.
But the best way to see Umbria is to get out into the countryside. One
of the most charming vineyards is Castello Monte Vibiano Vecchio
in Marsciano. The winemaker Giacomo Sensi, an Italian dreamboat with
Samson hair and a disarming smile, could make you drink just about

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE; CHRIS BAKER/COURTESY OF FRESH (4)
anything, but go for the intense red blend L’Andrea. Oh, and there will
be food—wild boar, porcini mushrooms, black truffles, wild asparagus,
and pasta, pasta, pasta. If you are gluten-free, choose another region.
Or another country. Or better yet, another planet.
The pleasures of Umbrian food and wine, sun, and scenery are enough
to impress, but the fertile land offers something more. For centuries—
some anthropologists theorize going as far back as the sixth
century B.C.—the white clay in Umbria’s hills has been known
for its healing properties (some locals even drink it); its
alkaline minerals are credited with cleansing and purifying the
skin. It’s one of Italian women’s oldest beauty secrets, still
in use today. On a tip from a friend in Rome, Fresh founders
Lev Glazman and Alina Roytberg hunted down the source
Right: Fresh
Umbrian Clay of the mythic clay in the sleepy town of Nocera Umbra and
Purifying developed a variety of skin-care products in the Umbrian
Treatment Bar, Clay line. More than fifteen years later, the clay in these Fresh
Facial Toner, and masks and cleansers still comes from Umbria. That’s why
Mask. Plus, the Fresh turned to the venerable Italian ceramics workshop
clay in raw form. Rometti to create limited-edition packaging (out now) for its
Umbrian Clay Purifying Mask. It only makes sense to have
the clay encased in clay. The colors of the delicately painted
new jar are inspired by terra-cotta tile roofs, the soft taupe of
sandstone, and the pale-blue sky so common to the region.
It can be a trap, of course, to overromanticize nature, to
think it’s always benign. Even St. Francis, the legend goes, had
to face down a man-eating wolf. But in this ancient land, in the
realms of beauty and the spirit, the earth provides its bounty.

76 ALLURE JUNE 2017


PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER


Beyond the famous pedigree, the
formidable Ms. Kravitz is poised
for single-name stardom.

BY DAVID DENICOLO
FEELING CATTY
Velvet dress by Gucci.
Slippers throughout,
custom-made by
stylist. Earrings from
New York Vintage, by
Haus of Topper, and
Kravitz's own. Couture
Mono Eye Shadow in
Caftan by Yves Saint
Laurent. These pages:
Fashion stylist, Beth
Fenton. Hair: Nikki
Nelms. Makeup: Tom
Pecheux. Manicure:
Rieko Okusa. Set
design: Josephine
Shokrian. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
SPOT ON
Silk dress by Monse.
Beret and bracelet
from New York
Vintage. Earrings by
3.1 Phillip Lim. Rings
by Chris Habana
Jewelry and My
Enemy Jewelry by
Chris Habana. Rouge
Pur Couture The Mats
lipstick in Orange
Imagine by Yves Saint
Laurent. Details,
see Shopping Guide.
i n an unspeakably
hip café in
unspeakably
hip Williamsburg
in unspeakably
hip Brooklyn, it is time to meet
unspeakably hip Zoë Kravitz. I’m
going to spoil it for you: This is a
story about how off base media first
impressions can be. For while I do
feel like the oldest, most unpierced,
least genderqueer extra on the set
of Girls, and while she is thoroughly
on point with her dark hoodie, long
platinum braids, artistically placed
tattoos, and gypsy trove of vintage
silver rings, Kravitz doesn’t project one
iota of snotty millennial smugness,
nor the condescension of the beautiful,
famous, and extremely fashionable.

YOU GET THE SENSE THAT


always assume I’m much more hippie-
dippy than I am,” she says. Her
character, Bonnie, kind of an alt-left
paragon, on the surface at least, seems
uncannily laid-back and reasonable
and generous in the drama’s tense,
repressive environment. “I’m certainly
not as patient as Bonnie is. I can be
quite confrontational at times,” says
Kravitz. “Bonnie has an amazing level
of compassion; she’s very aware of
others’ struggles.”
Best known for her success in
action movies (X-Men, Divergent),
Kravitz showed a side of herself in the
sophisticated drama of Lies that the
world is likely to see more of. “I want
to do more drama,” she says. There is
an intensity as she says it. You get the
sense that Hollywood is only starting
to scratch the surface of her talent.
This month we’ll see another facet
in Rough Night, a broad physical
comedy about a bachelorette party
in Miami that goes absurdly off the
rails, also starring Scarlett Johansson
and Kate McKinnon. “I had so much
fun,” Kravitz says. “Kate is genius. It’s
hard not to laugh in every scene with
her. There was definitely this idea
behind doing the movie that it’s our
turn to do a film like The Hangover
where male characters get rowdy and
dirty and outrageous. Women want
to do that, too.”
for me of what it meant to be female.
My mother had really great girlfriends.
Marisa Tomei is my godmother. I’ve
always been around strong women,
funny women. Humor is a big thing in
my family.”
It’s probably best to leave the
following exchange verbatim.
As you mention your mother, has
the Bill Cosby scandal upset her?
“I think it bummed her out. Though
she didn’t seem incredibly surprised.
I don’t think she wants to hear about
anyone being abused, especially
by someone she spent so much time
with. It feels shitty. You want to
shower.” She smiles, in a slightly
pained way, clearly having said all
she wants to say on the topic.
It’s time to move on to happier
subjects, like inspiration. The first
name to drop: Susan Sarandon. “I’ve
known her a little bit,” Kravitz says.
“I think she’s sexy and talented and
amazing and outspoken and
intelligent.” The next one seems to
come out of left field: Helena Bonham
Carter. Really? An English actress
with a CBE after her name? She clearly
senses some bemusement from
across the table. “Come on, she’s
amazing,” says Kravitz. “I recently saw
Fight Club again. We’ve been doing
movie nights. Me and my boyfriend
[actor Karl Glusman] have been

HOLLYWOOD IS ONLY
STARTING TO SCRATCH THE
SURFACE OF HER TALENT.
In fact, the opposite is true. “Rowdy,” “dirty,” and “outrageous,” hosting. We’ve been trying to start a
The daughter of Lenny Kravitz and however, would probably be among weekly movie night. We cook a big
Lisa Bonet and a star in her own the last words that come to mind to dinner.” Last night, that meant kale
right, she’s not exactly conventional, describe the young woman sitting and lentils and quinoa and butternut
but she does have some markedly across from me. I would start with squash. Anyway, Helena Bonham
traditional tastes. “Lovely” is the word “poised,” “thoughtful,” and “pleasant.” Carter, check. Kravitz's movie nights,
that springs to mind, and it is a Followed closely by “beautiful” and as she describes them, are more than
word she uses, without irony, as if we “sexy.” Her role models are certainly on fun, more than an excuse to entertain.
were having tea at the Ritz. the traditional side, as Hollywood role To hear her tell it, the experience
The role Kravitz played in HBO’s Big models go. “I’d start with my family,” seems to fall somewhere between
Little Lies might exploit the common she says. “Both my grandmothers and work and worship. “Last night we
perception a little bit. “I think people my mother. They planted the seeds watched Opening Night,” she says.

81
a little
background:
Opening Night
is a dense and
difficult 1977 film-student favorite
directed by John Cassavetes, a
champion of improvisation, cinema
verité, and working outside of the
Hollywood system. Again, she picks
up on my face. “Yes, it’s exhausting.
But watching Opening Night, I think
Cassavetes and Gena Rowlands are
the ultimate couple because they’re
both beautiful and talented actors,
but the fact that they [as husband
and wife] made art together, to me
that’s the ultimate relationship. She is
so natural. She does everything that
I was 15. Part of [what I love about
it] is the spontaneity that’s possible
here. There’s life and diversity and
art everywhere. It makes me happy.”
It would be journalistic negligence
to do an interview with Zoë Kravitz
and not bring up her style. We start
with the hair: “The platinum’s fun. It’s
work. But it’s something I’ve always
wanted to do.” Her fashion sense, for
all its bohemian overtones, is rooted
in common sense. “I’ve always liked
contrasts, contradiction,” she says. “I
think too much of anything doesn’t
work—like if everything you wear is
expensive-looking, you look stale. And
if everything you wear is ripped and
falling apart, you look crazy.” (Every
fashion blogger in the world, please,
oh please, take note.) “I live in New
York City. I walk. I have to be
comfortable. You don’t look cool if
you’re uncomfortable.” Her sense of
style hasn’t gone unnoticed. “I’ve had
a contract with YSL Beauty for about a
year,” she says. “They’ve been very
if we all lived in a postracial,
bigotry-free world. Kravitz is having
none of it.
“Racism is very real, and white
supremacy is going strong,” she says.
And identity is not something to be
taken lightly: “I am mixed. My parents
are mixed. The more I experience life,
I am identifying more and more with
being black and what that means—
being more proud of that and feeling
connected to my history. I was always
one of the only black kids in any of my
schools. I went to private schools full
of white kids. I think a lot of that made
me want to blend in or not be looked
at as black. The white kids are always
talking about your hair and making
you feel weird. I had this struggle of
accepting myself as black. And now
I’m so in love with my culture and so
proud to be black. It’s still ongoing,
but a big shift has occurred. My dad
especially has always been very
connected to his history, and it’s
important to him that I understand
you’re told not to do. It’s nice to see supportive of me. It’s nice to find a where I come from.”
someone throw all the rules away.” brand that wants to elevate you as Maybe it’s a cliché, but as with a lot
Not to mention they were a opposed to change you.” of clichés, there’s truth in it: If you
quintessentially New York couple. There’s no insecurity with Kravitz, don’t know where you come from, you
And though Kravitz grew up in Los but there’s no false confidence, can’t know where you’re going. And at
Angeles, the East Coast is in her either. This seems to go beyond her 28, Zoë Kravitz—already a movie star,
blood. “I feel most at home in New professional life. Conservatives already a fashion icon—might have
York,” she says. “I’ve been here since like to sneer at “identity politics” as the best GPS in the business.

HAIR APPARENT From pixie bangs to retro flips to platinum


braids to (most recently) a pixie cut, there’s
not much Kravitz hasn’t tried. 2017

2008
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

2015

2014
4

2017
2011

2013

2009
2007
M. BUTTERFLY
Tulle dress by
Simone Rocha.
Earring, stylist's
own. Bracelet and
ring from New York
Vintage. Rings by
Scosha. Couture
Mono Eye Shadow
in Orient by Yves
Saint Laurent.
Details, see
Shopping Guide.
PIECE OF WORK
Patchwork jacket
and silk dress
by Dior. Necklace
by Monica
Sordo Jewelry.
Earrings from My
Enemy Jewelry
by Chris Habana.
Details, see
Shopping Guide.
METAL HEAD
Wool jacket by
Moschino.
Embellished tulle
dress by Michael
Kors Collection.
Beret by Moschino
x Judy Blame Beret.
Earrings from My
Enemy Jewelry by
Chris Habana. Rings
by Ariana Boussard-
Reifel and Scosha.
Makeup colors:
Couture Mono Eye
Shadow in Argane
and Fastes by
Yves Saint Laurent.
Details, see
Shopping Guide.

Look back at Zoë


Kravitz’s best
beauty moments
at allure.com/
zoe-beauty-looks.
THE
LAST
SAFE
AS PLANNED
PARENTHOOD FACES
NEAR-EXTINCTION,
KATHY DOBIE VISITS
ONE CLINIC IN
SOUTHERN ARIZONA
AND FINDS A WORLD
FULL OF COMPASSION,
HUMANITY, AND HOPE.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
ROSE MARIE CROMWELL

PLACE
O n Tuesday morning at the Planned Parenthood office in
Maryvale, Arizona, eight adults and three children sit in
the waiting room. “Yap! Yap! Yap!” A toddler wobbles
across the room. “Are you barking?” her father says,
smiling. “Come back here, social butterfly!” Diego Rivera’s
The Flower Seller hangs on one wall. Two pink posters
read: “These doors stay open.” The girl is making a beeline
across the room, past a pregnant woman holding an owl-eyed
baby in her lap, past a couple filling out paperwork while they
whisper and laugh, and straight to the other little girl in the
room, who’s wearing a pink-and-purple cape. Every few minutes
someone comes in from outside—8 patients become 9, then 10,
11.... “It’s beginning to pick up,” Esther Cervantes says. I thought
it already had.
Esther manages the Maryvale Health Center, one of the
busiest Planned Parenthood health centers in the state, serving
more than 6,400 patients a year. She and Carmen Sanchez, the
team leader, sit side by side at the receiving window, checking
in patients, managing payments. Esther has worked for Planned
Parenthood for about 15 years. She calls the Maryvale clinic “my
clinic” and the four young health-care assistants “my girls,” and
when a workman arrives to fix the front door, she calls it “my
door,” asking if he can etch the name “Planned Parenthood” into
the glass. Esther has a mass of dark hair and a down-to-earth,
humorous manner. She’s warm and gregarious and protective—
of her staff and her patients. “She’s a mother hen,” Carmen says.
The staff of the clinic is bilingual, and most live in Maryvale, a
racially and ethnically mixed neighborhood in western Phoenix.
More than half of the patients rely on Title X funds or Medicaid
to cover all or part of their visit. It’s a front-page issue these days
as politicians work furiously to cut that funding from Planned
Parenthood. In the two days that I visited, the clinic saw and
treated 70 patients: 32 for birth control consultations, 20 for
STD testing and treatment, 11 for Depo-Provera shots (a
hormonal form of birth control that’s 99 percent effective—if
administered properly—and lasts three months), and 7 for well-
woman exams. Of those 70 patients, 42 qualified for Title X
funding, the federal program that provides grants for family-
planning services and preventive health care; 12 had private
insurance; 10 used Medicaid coverage; and 6 paid out of pocket.
Abortion services are not offered at Maryvale; they’re performed
at only four Planned Parenthood clinics in Arizona.
The clinic has been in Maryvale for more than 30 years,
serving a neighborhood that has a shortage of health
professionals and is medically underserved; the median
household income in Maryvale is $40,054. Esther’s connection to
HELP, AND SHE HATES ASKING
WITHOUT A JOB, SHE NEEDS Esther
Cervantes and
NOW IN A NEW PLACE

her reliably
infectious smile

heart,” Esther later told me.)


The woman, whose name is Jessica*, had left
her job in Tucson when her boyfriend was
posted to an army base in Phoenix. Her birth
control prescription’s about to run out, and she
needs a Pap smear, too. “I was kind of running
out of time, and either I have a baby, which I
can’t afford, or I go and get this done,” she says.
FOR IT.

Jessica has worked as a hairstylist, a baker,


a night-shift stock person at Home Depot, and
a census taker, but she’s never made enough
to be able to afford health insurance. She’s
always paid out of pocket: $30 to $35 a month
for birth control, about $800 every two years
for her Pap smear. Now in a new place without
Planned Parenthood is personal. It goes back to being a teenager in love a job, she needs help, and she hates asking for
with a boy, both of them clueless about almost everything but their it. Jessica is a military brat, the youngest
attraction to each other. Esther describes her family as “a very Hispanic daughter of a pilot and a firm believer in not
family where you don’t talk about birth control, you don’t talk about sex, you asking for “government handouts.”
don’t talk about all that fun stuff.” The first education she got was at Planned She was wary about coming to the Maryvale
Parenthood—she was 17, and her older sister’s friend had taken her there for clinic. She worried it would be like a Social
a pregnancy test. “I remember the compassion and the educating,” Esther Security office or the DMV—crowded and
recalls. That was 24 years ago. She had the baby, a boy, and married her dingy. Instead, she walked into a clean, well-lit
childhood sweetheart. She describes their two grown children as “Planned place. “The women at the front desk were so
Parenthood babies”—both so knowledgeable about birth control and STDs incredibly kind, which was unexpected,”
that their friends come to them with questions. Jessica says. “They could very well walk around
Carmen is another old hand, having worked at Planned Parenthood for annoyed at people who can’t afford to pay...but
20 years, long enough to see two generations of families coming into the they were very understanding.”
clinic. “My daughter’s our patient,” Carmen says, laughing. “Her friends are Twelve years ago, Jessica went to a
our patients. She started four years ago at Arizona State University, and Planned Parenthood for an abortion. She was
she brought her roommate, everybody here.” Carmen and Esther met at 23 and in a violent relationship. Her mom
the Maryvale Health Center. Carmen was working as a health-care went with her to the clinic in Tucson. Not
assistant; Esther had come in for another pregnancy test. Carmen gave even one month pregnant, she was able to
Esther the results. When Esther gave birth to her second child, Carmen get a nonsurgical (a.k.a. medical) abortion,
became the godmother. Now Esther is her boss. The two work the front taking two sets of pills over two days. Nothing
office together in complete synchronicity. lingers from that day, except being glad her
A blonde woman wearing skinny jeans and sneakers is at the window. mom was there: “I don’t really think much of
“I’m not employed. I wrote down what I made last year,” she tells Carmen, it either way. It was something that I had to
sounding a little shaky. The woman explains: She just moved to Phoenix, do for myself, and I did it.”
doesn’t have a job yet, and has no health insurance. Esther invites the
woman inside the offices to talk privately about her financial situation.
There she starts to cry, and Esther gives her a long hug. (“That broke my *Some names have been changed.

89
B efore being seen by the nurse
practitioner, Jessica sits down with
Cecilia Ibarra, one of the health-care
assistants. Cecilia is the baby of the
office, having come on only two and a
half years ago and being only 25.
“They’ve been together for a lot longer than I
have been here, but I kind of just squeezed myself in,” she says,
smiling. Cecilia’s dark hair is lightened on the ends, so it looks
sunlit. She’s got a round, pretty face; a strong, confident
presence; and a dry sense of humor. The office joke is that she’s
Esther’s child. “She’s really my mom—she gave me up when I
was little,” Cecilia jokes, but with a straight face. “And now we’re
reunited. She’s not very happy about it, but I followed her here.”
Health-care assistants do the intake interviews. They also
take care of STD, HIV, and pregnancy testing—anything that
Elma Munoz.
Her patients
call her
la doctora.

“YOU CANNOT TEACH


doesn’t have to be performed by a nurse practitioner. Jessica
sits in Cecilia’s office, ankles crossed, jiggling her legs,
SOMEBODY TO HAVE THAT
cracking jokes when she can.
“How old were you when you first became sexually active?”
HEART FOR THE PATIENTS.”
Cecilia asks.
“Hooooh!” Jessica says, exhaling sharply. view, his lips curl into a sumptuous smile. Esmeralda’s a
“I’m taking you way back.” great planner; even as a teenager she was clear-eyed
“You are!” Jessica says. “Welcome to the depths! Ah, Jesus!” beyond her years. “I got my first boyfriend in high school,
“Something you never forget, right?” and I knew right away I didn’t want to be a teen mom. A lot
“Uh, but I’d like to! Fourteen. I didn’t even know what a of my cousins were,” she says. She didn’t want to talk to
wiener looked like. I thought the whole thing was covered in her mother about getting contraceptives, Esmeralda says,
hair,” Jessica says. Cecilia laughs and keeps typing. “And even because she knew she would “never let me leave the
after I had sex the first time—still thought the entire thing was house.” Fortunately, her good friend had a cool aunt named
covered in hair because I didn’t see it.” Esther Cervantes who worked at Planned Parenthood.
Cecilia thinks of herself as an educator: “My mother was very Before arriving at the clinic, Esmeralda was thinking she
closed off—she never talked about birth control; she never would go on the Pill, not knowing there were any other
talked to me about periods. And here I have a lot of those forms of birth control, except condoms. “I went to a high
patients. And it’s not only young patients; it’s also older women.” school in south Phoenix. We had health education, but we
When the staff goes out to lunch wearing their navy blue never talked about STDs or birth control, HIV, none of that
clinic uniforms and Planned Parenthood name tags, they stuff,” she says. Arizona public schools are not required
always run into people who want help. Esther says, “If I’m in my to offer sex education. If a school chooses to offer sex ed,
scrubs, I’ll get stopped: ‘Oh, you work at Planned Parenthood? the law requires that students get parental permission
That’s so cool. I have a question....’ Once you hear that ‘That’s to take the class and that educators stress abstinence. Gay
so cool,’ I know a question’s coming.” teens are completely abandoned since any discussion
of homosexuality, including methods
Esmeralda is 27. Her two-year-old of safe sex, is forbidden. Oddly, some
boy, Jeremiah Anthony, sits on her polls of Arizona residents show support
lap, mesmerized as his mother draws of comprehensive sex education,
a shark on his forearm with a blue which would suggest this is a case of
magic marker. As the fin comes into the tail (90 state legislators) wagging
the dog (6.7 million citizens).
“I went in thinking, I’m going to
get on birth control and that’s it,”
Esmeralda recalls. “I didn’t know there
was so much more to it, that it still
doesn’t prevent STDs, that there’s still
a chance you could get pregnant, the
side effects....” After hearing her
options, Esmeralda decided on Depo-
Provera. She thought that would be
safer than trying to remember to take
a pill at the same time every day.
At 18, Esmeralda switched to a five-
year IUD. By 23, she had an associate’s
degree in business, her boyfriend had
a BA in applied science, and both were employed in their fields.
They decided they were ready for a baby. After Jeremiah Anthony
was born, Esmeralda went back to Planned Parenthood for another
IUD and continued her education. Now she’s a year away from
finishing her bachelor’s degree, and she and her boyfriend have

“THAT WAS SCARY. WHAT IF IT WAS MY


bought their first home. “I came about three weeks ago to get my
IUD taken out, and now I’m here to have a pregnancy test,” she Planned Parenthood rail against abortion, they
says, unable to hide her excitement. “We’ll see.” know that what these cuts would really affect
“Planned Parenthood really helped me,” Esmeralda says. is people’s access to affordable birth control,
“Because when I was 16, I couldn’t tell my parents, so that was a big cancer screenings, and STD and HIV testing.
thing. When I was going to college I didn’t have insurance, and if I Then there’s the threat of arrest and
wanted an IUD it would’ve cost me $2,000. I was in college and deportation of their undocumented patients.
I had a part-time job waitressing, so I couldn’t afford that.... Literally, This past February, Guadalupe Garcia de Rayos,
Planned Parenthood helped me plan my way to where I’m at now.” an Arizona mother of two U.S.-born children,
who has lived in this country since she was 14,

E
lma Munoz, the clinic’s nurse was detained and deported to Mexico. At an
practitioner, sits behind a desk taking emotional press conference, her 14-year-old
small sips of a giant-size Diet Coke that daughter, speaking through tears, said, “To me
will last her the whole day. She eats her it’s sad seeing what this world has come to,

MOM OR MY SISTER?”
lunch here while she makes calls and seeing how this world has so much hate in it....
reviews patient records. In the two days Seeing my mom in that [Immigration and
I’m at the clinic, I interview Elma in tiny Customs Enforcement] van was unexplainable.
installments, seven minutes here, nine It was really heart-dropping.”
there, whenever she can squeeze me in. The last time immigrants were heavily
She’s a small woman with a soft, cottony targeted in Arizona was in 2011, when the state
voice. The patients call her la doctora. passed one of the toughest anti-immigration
“You cannot teach somebody to have laws in the country, allowing police to demand
that heart for the patients—that’s what Elma proof of citizenship or immigration papers
has,” Esther says. “The girls who do the during any stop where they suspected the
[intake] can get a lot of information, but there are certain things our person might be here illegally. Many churches
patients will never tell the girls; they will only tell Elma.” They may and schools reported a noticeable drop in
come for cancer screenings or birth control, but they often end up attendance as people stayed home, afraid
talking to Elma about other issues. “I’ve had ladies come back with even to go outside. And studies done after the
different problems, whether it’s diabetes or hernias that needed to law was enacted suggest that the impact of
be repaired,” says Elma, who then refers them to doctors. these policies contributed to decreases in
Many of the patients here are recent immigrants, and some are preventive health care among those most at
undocumented. These recent immigrants come from Mexico and risk. Esther remembers the day they set up a
Central and South America, but also from Romania, Africa, the
Middle East. The Maryvale clinic is often their first contact with the
U.S. health-care system, and sometimes their only one. Financial
constraints and the fear of being reported to immigration authorities
can keep people from seeking medical care, but over time the
Maryvale clinic has built a reputation for being affordable—and
trustworthy. “We built a rapport with patients, and word travels in
that community,” Elma says. “My cousin will tell her cousin, who will
tell the neighbor. We have a reputation that we’re a safe place.”
One story that sticks with Elma is the woman who came in for an
exam after having not seen a doctor in four or five years. She was
an undocumented immigrant in her 30s, and an abnormal result
from her Pap smear that day led to the discovery that she had
uterine cancer. “Thankfully we were able to find it [and] we could
start helping her, but you wonder if she had waited...” Elma says.
“This was a lady with five or six kids at home and...if it weren’t for us,
she probably wouldn’t have gone too many places. That was scary.
What if that was my mom or my sister?”
There are twin pressures on this clinic: There’s the threat of the
federal government cutting Medicaid reimbursements and Title X
funding (the latter would affect all family-
planning providers, including Planned
Parenthood; the former would affect
Planned Parenthood specifically). By law, no
federal funds can cover abortions, except in
cases of rape or incest or when the mother’s
health is endangered. So while the
politicians working to strip funds from
checkpoint outside of the Maryvale hospital, only blocks from the
clinic, and how many patients missed their appointments that
day. Much of that law was overturned in court, but now, under
the Trump administration, the fear has returned. “I can see it in
their eyes when we ask for their ID,” says Esther, who always
explains in great detail that this is for record keeping only and measures that are hostile to women’s health
that they would never report a patient to the authorities. (including restrictions on access to birth control
and cancer screenings at Planned Parenthood)

W
hen Kendra* arrives have been signed into law by Brewer and Ducey.
for her well-woman Among them:
exam and STD testing, A law forbidding nurse practitioners from
she has come straight giving patients a medical abortion or performing
from basketball practice, first-trimester abortions. That law led to many
so she’s still in sweats and rural Planned Parenthood health centers in
high-tops. She’s been coming Arizona being forced to close, due in part to
to Planned Parenthood since policies that targeted women’s access to health
she was 17; now she’s 42. That first care and reproductive-health-care providers.
visit she came alone, taking a city A law requiring women seeking an abortion
bus after school, and if you could have to make three visits to the doctor over two
seen her mind then, it would’ve looked days. “Given the fact that 60 percent of our
like an animal trying to hide from a predator: abortion patients already have children at
Oh, my God, my mom’s gonna kill me! My home...they’re having to find child care; they’re
grandmother’s gonna kill me! She was a high-school senior with a having to stay overnight at a hotel,” says
college scholarship and dreams of law school, but she was pretty Bryan Howard, president and CEO of Planned
sure she was pregnant and the ground was about to drop out Parenthood Arizona.
from under her. “I think for me that was the number-one thing, A law forcing patients to receive state-directed
that I didn’t have to walk in being scared that they were going to in-person counseling, with information designed
call my mom,” Kendra says. After informing her that she was, to discourage abortions, and then wait 24 hours
indeed, pregnant, a staffer talked to her about how to break the before the procedure is provided.
news to her mother. Kendra decided on a note. “Please read this A law forcing minors to get notarized
before you come back to my room,” it began. statements of permission from a parent in order
Throughout her pregnancy, she returned to the Planned to get an abortion.
Parenthood clinic every time she had a question. Always a A law that blocks Medicaid reimbursement
“school worm,” Kendra went on to college (without the basketball for nonabortion health care, making it difficult
scholarship), got an associate’s degree, then a bachelor’s, or impossible for low-income people to get
and this spring she got her PhD in psychology. She has raised her contraception, infectious-disease testing, and
two daughters more strictly than she was raised, but also with cancer screenings. This bill was overturned in
a lot more sex talk. When her girls each turned 18 and became court, but last summer it was reintroduced and
sexually active, she brought them to Planned Parenthood for signed into law again. (It has yet to be enforced
birth control. One daughter is a college graduate and teaches while the state figures out the logistics.)
fifth grade. The other is in her senior year of college. “They In 2007, the state had 20 Planned Parenthood
are not young mothers. They health centers; today there are 10.
broke the cycle,” Kendra says. Elma has always loved her job. “The patients
“I’m so proud of that.” are very appreciative,” she says. “I kind of fell
Not that long ago, there in love with that. And I still kid around with
were pro-choice, pro–Planned my patients—when I was first here, I couldn’t
Parenthood Republicans in the afford pills. So you see what we do, and you
State Senate, but in the early know it helps so many people. I guess I fell in
2000s, those members began to love with that, too.”
be replaced by ultraconservative The pressures on this clinic would make a
Republicans, followed by the strong man fold, but the women who work here
election of two antichoice do what most of us do when the future looks
governors, Jan Brewer and now scary: They focus on the day-to-day. They do
Doug Ducey. Since then, legislation their jobs. The threat looms, of course. But then
aimed at shutting down Planned there’s a real, live person right in front of you—a
Parenthood and a woman’s right mother of five, perhaps, who’s come for a cancer
to abortion has come at a fast and screening; or a young man, blushing as he
furious pace. At least 13 antichoice pushes a note through the window saying he
needs an STD test; or maybe a teenager with
Cecilia Ibarra, questions about planning her future.
an office health-
And that looms larger.
care assistant

At press time, the president had just signed legislation


that would allow states to bar Title X funding to family-
planning providers, though Title X money cannot
actually be used to fund abortions.
IN 2007, THE STATE HAD
20 PLANNED PARENTHOOD
HEALTH CENTERS;
TODAY THERE ARE 10.
the
resistance
in bloom
Peace and love. Seduction or protest.
A flower has always meant
something more. By Danielle Pergament
Let’s start with daisies, the flora of little girls’ swimsuits and pinafores. Daisies
scattered over rolling meadows—the kind with a light breeze, a beautiful bride, a
few tumbling puppies. Or the depletion of white petals in the hands of a young
woman. A “loves me, loves me not” ritual. Try to think of something that telegraphs
innocence like a daisy. You can’t do it.
Then there’s the rose. A rose will woo you, it will seduce you, it will teach you to
love, and when the time is right, it will ask for forgiveness. But you’d best keep up
because a rose brings with it a dark side. Subversive. This flower is also the
hallmark of the wicked. It’s the one that lures you in, pricks your finger, makes you
suffer, delivers you to reckoning. Don’t believe it? Just ask that prince who spent all
those years as a hideous beast.
Flowers are never just flowers. The decrepit ones in Miss Havisham’s hair. The
FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF GUCCI; TIM WALKER

enticing ones that lulled Dorothy to sleep. The pansies that Ophelia gave away as
easily as her sanity. Whatever mood or sentiment we can imagine, we can find a
flower to articulate it. We use them to offer friendship, to send condolences, to get
laid. Flowers have killed world leaders and stopped wars. They see us through
baptisms, weddings, and funerals. Flowers have a unique ability to be all things to
all people. They say as much or as little as we choose.

94
flowers are
never just
flowers.
We use them to decorate: a ranunculus in our hair, peonies on our desks, lilies
on our night tables, even a paper-thin forget-me-not on our cheeks. Here at
Allure, we have always celebrated flowers for their ability to make us smell better,
to make us look better—to simply make us feel better. Flowers will always come
into fashion when political indifference falls out of it. We look to these bursts
of color and joy when the world turns dark. And the darker the turn, the more
significance our flowers assume. They lift us up when our leaders fail to.
Maybe it’s no surprise that the runways this season were in full bloom. Daisies
splashed across a trench at Michael Kors or sprinkled over slides at Prada.
A hat laden with crimson poppies at Gucci and orange blooms glowing against
black boots at Balenciaga. But it’s their rich history and unparalleled symbolism
that make flowers so much more than a device at a fashion show.
Whether they were offered to soldiers at the Pentagon in 1967 or handed out
to demonstrators at the Women’s March in 2017, flowers epitomize peaceful
protest. We slide them through a ponytail in a quiet gesture of defiance. We
weave a dandelion crown in an homage to summer, joy, and love. They say, “I will
not fight.” They are dissidence of the highest, most beautiful order. “I will meet
your ugly with my inalienable beauty.” “I will meet your hate with dignity and
grace.” A horticultural “When they go low, we go high.”
A flower can make us cry or whimper. It can lift us up and give us hope. We
hold it; we cherish it; we dry it or press it. All to savor its beauty.
A flower can speak volumes—and never make a sound.

From top left: Martin Luther King Jr. led the Selma-to-Montgomery march in 1965 wearing a
lei, a Hawaiian symbol of friendship. Some models were crowned with floral headdresses at
Marchesa’s fall 2017 show. A woman in Hyde Park in 1967 championing love (and fornication).
A demonstrator offers a flower to military police at a Vietnam War protest in 1967.

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.

96
Clockwise from top
center: Makeup artist
Val Garland took the
natural look very literally
for Preen by Thornton
Bregazzi, using
dried flowers and lash
glue. Hibiscus in the
hair at Dolce &
Gabbana. A spectator
at Woodstock’s twenty-
fifth-anniversary concert
in 1994. Flowers were
pinned in the hair and
painted across the face
(with M.A.C. pigments)
at the fall 2017 Tata Naka
show. Gucci’s fall 2017
runway featured flowers
on dresses, tights, and
shoes (sometimes all
at once). Demonstrators
in Hyde Park in 1967.

97
taking
the
plunge

Graphic prints,
crisp lines, maybe
a daring reveal
or two. Meet the
swimsuits that
cut as striking a
figure in the water
as out of it.
deep dive
Left, on Mayowa
Nicholas: Bikini top by
Araks. Right, on Aamito
Lagum: Swimsuit by
Fella. Opposite page:
Swimsuit by Eres. Alain
Mikli sunglasses from
C. Madeleine’s. These
pages: Fashion stylist,
Alexandra Carl. Hair:
Tamas Tuzes. Makeup:
Cyndle Komarovski.
Manicure: Donna D.
Production: HG
Producers. Details, see
Shopping Guide.

photographed by
Tanya and Zhenya Posternak
color blocking
Left: Swimsuit by Eres.
Right: Swimsuit by
Araks. Sunglasses by
Selima Optique. Details,
see Shopping Guide.
getting in line
Left: Swimsuit by Solid
& Striped. Infallible
Paints Liquid Eyeliner in
Vivid Aqua by L’Oréal
Paris. Right: Bikini top
by Lisa Marie Fernandez.
Earrings, stylist’s own.
Infallible Paints Eye
Shadow in BRB Blue by
L’Oréal Paris. Details,
see Shopping Guide.
fire and ice
Left: Swimsuit by Mara
Hoffman. Earrings
by Annelise Michelson.
Right: Swimsuit by
Acacia Swimwear.
Earrings by Annelise
Michelson. Makeup
colors, on both: Master
Strobing Liquid
Illuminating Highlighter
Liquid in 300 and
Shine Shot Lip Topcoat
by Maybelline New
York. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
the shape of things
Left: Swimsuit by Solid
& Striped. Earrings
by Modern Weaving.
Right: Swimsuit
by Eres. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
>
O Who
RUN
the
(Beauty)
WORLD?
Aeronautics, NASCAR racing, deep-sea fishing—
just a few of the professions dominated by men.
Oh, and don’t forget hairstyling and makeup
artistry. For a long time, most of the people creating
the beauty looks for ad campaigns and magazine covers,
the people shaping our perceptions of beauty, have been
men. Very talented men, but nonetheless: dudes. Just how
and why did that happen? And where are we now? The women
who are changing the paradigm have a few ideas.

By Liana Schaffner

Photographed by Horacio Salinas


A woman enters a tiny nail salon in
Phoenix and gazes at the impressive wall
of polish. She’s feeling overwhelmed; the
bottles progress all the way from pale
eggshell to deep eggplant. A helpful young
technician with a creative eye approaches
and suggests a glossy cranberry lacquer.
The woman folds her mouth into a tight line
and shakes her head firmly: no. A second
technician points to a feisty coral hue, but
that doesn’t quite appeal to the customer
either. The woman continues to reject the
staff’s recommendations (five in all) until

FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS’ CREDITS, SEE CREDITS PAGE.


the salon’s only male employee strolls up.
He reaches for a cranberry polish—the
same one his colleague had proposed
only moments before. The woman breaks
into a smile and gives an enthusiastic nod.
“Perfect!” she beams.

THREE WOMEN WHO WERE AMONG THE FIRST TO BREAK THROUGH—AND CHANGE THE FACE OF THE INDUSTRY: Makeup
artists Diane Kendal (left) and Pat McGrath (right) and hairstylist Odile Gilbert (center) have long led backstage teams at the world’s highest-profile
runway shows, an alpha position typically held by their male peers. “When people first met me, they were surprised I was a woman,” says Gilbert.
“But a lot of young girls today tell me I’ve helped open doors.”
attention, in case your personal style pigeonholed you or
didn’t match the client’s vision.” For Violette, whose
background was in painting and costume design, trying
to mimic a blank slate went against every creative
impulse. “I forced myself to express my aesthetic. It was
difficult at first, and even my agent at the time—whom I
left—told me to stop. But I think having my own style
helped define me as an artist.”
Now Violette’s individual style draws tens of thousands
of followers to her Instagram feed and YouTube channel,
where she deconstructs beauty looks—and breaks down
old industry standards. “Social media has changed
everything,” she says. “It allows women like me to take risks
elebrity manicurist Deborah and be creative. We don’t have to be invisible anymore.”
Lippmann laughs as she recounts But social media has allowed women in beauty to do
this incident from her early days in nail design. She more than just emerge from the sidelines. For some, it’s
remembers it clearly—not because it was an isolated meant name recognition—a level of prominence once
event, but because it was part of a recurring theme. “This reserved for industry icons. “If I asked my mother to name
happened all the time,” Lippmann says. “We even turned famous hairstylists, she’d say Vidal Sassoon, Frédéric
it into a game by getting the guy to suggest something Fekkai, Paul Mitchell, John Frieda—all guys,” says Lacy
the girls had already tried. The client always, always took Redway, a hairstylist who works with celebrities including
his advice. It was funny. But not, like, funny ha, ha.” Alicia Keys and Olivia Palermo. “Now she may know Jen
It may sound anecdotal, but the story of a man having Atkin, too. And as a woman in this industry, that makes
more beauty sway than a woman isn’t confined to a small me proud—and optimistic.”
local salon. It plays out on a grander, global stage. Glimpse With a cult product line and nearly 2 million followers
behind the scenes of an editorial shoot, an advertising on Instagram, Atkin is an international phenom—a
campaign, or a fashion show in New York City or Paris and singular accomplishment in the testosterone-charged
you’ll discover a world traditionally dominated by men. world of hairstyling, where a thick skin and sheer physical
And, sure, we realize that there are many creative realms— strength are essential to survival. “It’s pretty brutal,”
art, food, film—that remain male-dominated in the year admits hairstylist and business owner Teddi Cranford,
2017. But the longtime male domination in the beauty who cut her teeth backstage assisting Guido, one of
industry is more surprising, ironic even, given that the vast fashion’s most prolific, creative, and coveted hairstylists,
majority of the people consuming the product it generates for six years. “Guido had this badass group of women
are and always have been women. working for him, and we were all extremely driven,”
Yet for years (and with a few notable exceptions), the Cranford says. “I remember women on the team who
biggest names in hair and makeup have belonged to were seven months pregnant lugging their equipment to
guys who don’t actually put much effort into their hair or a shoot. If you’re in that arena, you have to guard your
wear makeup. They create beauty ideals while remaining space, be on your game, and prove you can work harder,
slightly removed from beauty realities—a surreal formula better, faster than the person standing next to you. You
that women, with their practical connection to the don’t ever ask for help, which means you’re hauling your
medium, have had trouble tapping into. own fucking bag, no matter what.”
“It’s harder for women in this business to stay above Exuding independence is the most valuable lesson
the fray,” says Sandy Linter, a makeup artist who has Bethany Brill learned from her days assisting Odile Gilbert,
been working on fashion shoots since 1973. “I remember one of the most lauded and legendary hairstylists on
showing up on set and the photographer telling me, editorial shoots and fashion shows in New York City and
‘I don’t like your makeup. Don’t do that on the model.’ ” Paris. Even 42 years after starting her career in 1975, Gilbert
Linter gives an incredulous laugh. “That’s why most is still the profession’s only woman to have earned such
female makeup artists never wear makeup. We have to prestige. “Odile taught me how to enter a room,” says Brill
be so careful about our image. And I don’t think that’s from her home in Los Angeles, speaking softly so as not to
changed in 40 years.” wake up her napping daughter. “When I first started
Linter isn’t alone in her thinking. And her experience [hairstyling], I was so eager to please. I have dimples and I’m
isn’t the result of an earlier era, when measuring a smiley, and I figured being nice to people would help get
woman’s skill set against her physical appearance was me work. They just ordered me around. But when I saw how
just par for the course. “Oh, that still happens,” says self-assured Odile was, I started standing my ground.”
Violette, a makeup artist who consults for brands such as
Dior and La Mer. “When I first started, in 2003, there was
this unspoken rule that girls on set had to play down their
looks and avoid being noticed. You couldn’t attract
right now,” says makeup artist Susie Sobol. “If you think
about magazine covers and advertisements in the 1980s
and 1990s, the images were so stylized. It was about
transforming a woman into an ideal or pandering to the
male gaze. Now the trend is to draw out a cool or
interesting quality. I think women beauty makers really
bring that to the table.”
Making room for more perspectives—men’s and
women’s—is necessary in a landscape that’s moved
beyond narrow standards. Women across the board
eveloping a steely continue to reject a one-size-fits-all notion of beauty,
outer shell, Brill worked in embracing instead their natural hair textures and using
New York City for ten years, makeup as a tool for self-expression. “I’ll style Priyanka
becoming a fixture at shows such as Chopra’s waves, pivot to Lupita Nyong’o’s Afro hair,
Rodarte, Zac Posen, and Jason Wu. But and then turn around and do a cover shoot with Jourdan
her success didn’t guarantee her a place in Dunn all in a single day,” says Jamaican-born Redway,
an industry that has a habit of leaving whose mastery of black women’s hair is a skill that
women behind—especially those who shift she believes the industry is finally beginning to value
their gaze to more personal pursuits. “I mentally and even seek out.
prepared myself to be pushed aside as soon as I got All good news. But what about the tendency to value
married and stopped working 24 hours a day,” says Brill. a guy’s opinion just a little bit more than a woman’s—that
Cranford, who had also been immersed in the New York unconscious habit that relegates female nail technicians,
fashion scene for a full decade, considered the writing makeup artists, and hairstylists to a secondary role? “I’ve
on the wall as well. “I saw that the chances of getting to been on shoots where my ability to achieve a certain
the top, especially for a woman, were really slim,” she look has been openly questioned and I have to work to
says. It’s not anecdotal. It’s quantifiable. We crunched prove myself, instead of just plain work,” says editorial
our own numbers through the years and they were hairstylist Esther Langham. “I can’t imagine a man
disappointing, if not shocking: Only 12 percent of the having to justify himself like that.” The old patterns still
hairstylists Allure used on shoots in 2006 were women exist, but they’re changing, thanks to new priorities.
(we feel guilty). Those numbers climbed to 32 percent “When I started in the 1990s, women wanted to sit in
last year (we feel exactly 20 percent less guilty). the chair and have this glamorous, almost therapeutic

Only 12 percent of the hairstylists


Allure used on shoots in 2006
were women. That number climbed
to 32 percent last year.
Realizing that hard work alone might not be enough to experience,” says colorist Rita Hazan, an industry star
achieve her goals, Cranford decided to forge her own who opened her first salon at the age of 27. “One of the
path. “I started carving out a niche and networking like perks of having your hair done was to have a guy tell
a boss,” she says. you how pretty you looked. Now women don’t need me
Cranford now owns White Rose Collective, a sunlit to compliment or reassure them—they need me to
New York City hair studio and beauty cooperative that understand their schedule and their lifestyle and to give
matches backstage pros with everyday women for them something that works. And when they walk out
events and weddings. Brill moved to Los Angeles to the door, they know they look good.”
shoot short films and create online beauty tutorials. And that right there may be the key. The more
Both hairstylists have young children. “Women aren’t beauty evolves to meet individual needs and points of
bowing out of the industry because our lives change,” view, the more inclusive the industry will become.
says Brill. “We’re changing the industry to fit our lives.” Because the problem isn’t having too many choices—
Even as female hairstylists and makeup artists the problem is not having enough.
reshape the contours of the beauty industry, the
biggest and most meaningful shift is coming from the
outside. “Women want a more natural and nuanced look
GLASSY EYED
With tweezers, lash
glue, and a steady
hand, makeup artist
Francelle Daly
glued silver confetti
piece by piece on
the lash line (and ear).
“It’s playful and
unconventional,” she
says. Makeup colors,
on Greta Varlese:
Stylo Yeux Waterproof
Long-Lasting Eyeliner
in Noir Intense,
Rouge Coco Gloss in
Physical, and Le
Vernis Longwear Nail
Colour in Sargasso
by Chanel. These
pages: Fashion stylist,
Stella Greenspan.
Makeup: Francelle
Daly. Hair: Tomo Jidai.
Manicure: April
Foreman. Production:
Connect the Dots.

Sparkles
Fly
It’s surreal and
ridiculous, uplifting
and defiant. But
one thing’s for
certain: The new
grown-up glitter is
guaranteed to
make you smile.
By Lexi Novak
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFE)

Photographed by
Roe Ethridge
MORE IS MORE
Think of glitter as an
accessory to your
accessories. (Still
with us?) Daly coated
lids in yellow and
aqua glitter to bring
on more color and
more shine. The one
rule here: Don’t hold
back. On Lou
Schoof: Embroidered
sweater and wool
top by Prada.
Earrings by Oscar de
la Renta. Oh Sugar
lip balm in Cupcake
by CoverGirl.
Details, see
Shopping Guide.
BESPOKE BROWS
Crazy? Fun? Crazy
fun? Whatever
you think of these
rhinestone-covered
brows, “you feel
the excitement when
you look at them,”
says Daly. “You don’t
think, Why is she
wearing jewels on her
brows?” Velvet dress
by Gucci. Gloves
by Wing & Weft
Gloves. Lip Pen in
Vallette by Lovecraft
Beauty. Details,
see Shopping Guide.
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFE)

STARDUST
Go ahead and lick
your lips. No,
really. The tiny gold
stars that Daly
placed over coral-
colored glitter were
actually edible
cake decorations
(genius, right?).
Earrings by
Christopher Kane.
Makeup colors:
Glitter in Reflects
Copper and
Lipglass Clear by
M.A.C. Details, see
Shopping Guide.
STRIKING GOLD
If you go for gold,
don’t stop at the
lids. Daly brushed
metallic cream
shadow through
the brows and
then topped it with
fine loose glitter.
“It’s painterly and
pretty,” she says.
Sequined dress
by Rodarte.
Makeup colors:
Color Cream Face
& Body Cream
Color in 322 and
Artist Rouge
Lipstick in C211 by
Make Up For Ever.
Details, see
Shopping Guide.

For every last


detail on how to
achieve these
sparkly looks, go
to allure.com/
glitter-makeup.
SHOPPING GUIDE .com. Page 83: Simone Rocha
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London; Steven Meisel; Randy
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Hadera, page 22: Helmut Lang swimsuit, $285. Araks.com.
suede jacket, $2,255. Helmut Selima Optique sunglasses, ALLURE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC.
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116 ALLURE JUNE 2017


AUTOBIOGRAPHY

Ellie
Kemper FILLS IN THE BLANKS.

VICTOR PRADO (PROP STYLIST: SARAH GUIDO-LAAKSO) (STILL LIFE); ROY ROCHLIN/FILMMAGIC (KEMPER)

This summer Kemper is back as Kimmy Schmidt in the wickedly funny Netflix comedy Unbreakable
Kimmy Schmidt. For details on a few of her favorite products (shown here), see Shopping Guide.

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