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 TABLESAWS
Tablesaw outfeed with PVC rollers
In a one-man shop, ripping sheet goods and long lumber
is difficult. I decided to solve this problem by building a
roller extension on the back of my tablesaw. When I dis-
covered that the commercially available rollers were a bit
pricey, I went shopping. For a few bucks I bought a 10-ft.
length of 11⁄ 2-in.-dia. PVC plumbing pipe, a short length
of nylon bar stock, several lengths of 1⁄ 2-in.-dia. steel bar
stock, and some angle iron.
I made up four rollers by cutting lengths of the PVC
and fitting each end of the pipe with bearings made from
the nylon bar stock. I made axles from the 1⁄ 2-in.-dia.
steel bar stock and drilled and tapped holes in each end
to attach the axles to the frame. I then made a cantile-
vered framework with angle iron and bolted the frame-
work to the back of the saw as shown, so that the rollers
are level with the top of the tablesaw. This extension has
made the handling of large stock much easier, quicker
and safer.
—Don Gilliem, Milford, Mich.
PVC roller
Angle-iron frame mounted
to back of tablesaw
Steel bar stock
11⁄ 2-in.-dia. PVC
plumbing pipe
Nylon bearing
Improved tablesaw splitter
Many woodworkers never attached the splitter that came
with their new tablesaw because it is cumbersome and
inconvenient to use and has to be removed for some
operations, such as cutting dadoes. After experiencing
kickback on a friend’s saw that had no splitter, I was de-
termined to work out a convenient solution for the split-
ter on my own saw (General). With the design shown
below, the splitter can be left in place even when using a
crosscut sled. And because it uses the same arbor mount
as the factory-supplied splitter, it tilts for a miter cut. Not
all splitters work that way.
To make the splitter, cut the basic shape shown from
3⁄ 32-in.-thick aluminum stock. This thickness will leave
1⁄ 64 in. of clearance on each side of a standard sawblade
kerf. You can modify the shape as you wish, but mine sits
21⁄ 2 in. above the table.
The best part of this design is the way the splitter
attaches to the mount. Replace the old splitter attach-
ment bolt with an adjustable ratchet-type of handle that
has the same size threads. These ratchet handles are avail-
able from Reid Supply Company (www.reidsupply.com)
and other sources. The handle will clear the blade and
will make it easier to remove and install the splitter.
—Bud Ruby, Oakland, Calif.
Splitter
Slot slides
over the ratchet-
handle bolt.
TABLESAWS 37
Smart way to cut a
new tablesaw insert to size
A zero-clearance throat plate insert makes a tablesaw safer
and helps you make cleaner cuts. Sizing it right can be
tricky, so here’s an easy way to cut and trim a blank to size.
Because many saws are designed for a 1⁄ 2-in.-thick
throat plate, make the insert from strong, 1⁄ 2-in.-thick
birch plywood. On the tablesaw, cut it 1⁄ 8 in. wider and
1 in. longer than the saw’s throat plate. Center the throat
plate on the blank and attach it with double-faced tape.
Next, using the throat plate as a guide, round the ends
of the blank with a bandsaw or jigsaw, leaving 1⁄16 in. of
waste. Rout off the waste with a bottom-bearing, flush-
trimming bit. The bearing runs against the throat plate as
the bit removes the waste and trims the insert to size.
Keep the new insert attached to the old insert while
you cut the blade and blade guard openings.
—Tom Begnal, Kent, Conn.

1. Make the Blank

Throat plate becomes template. Attach Round the ends. A bandsaw does this Trim the blank. Rout the insert flush to the
the throat plate to the blank with double- best, but a jigsaw also works. Leave about throat plate with a bottom-bearing, flush-
faced tape. 1
⁄16 in. of extra material. trimming bit.

2. CUT THE OPENINGS

Don’t remove the blank. Even at its lowest Two openings to cut. Hold down the blank with a push stick (left), staying away from the
height, a 10-in. blade stops a blank from blade (you also can place a board across the insert, clamping it at the front and back of the
dropping into the throat. Cut the blade saw table). Raise the blade slowly. Afterward, mark the opening for the blade-guard assem-
opening with the blank taped to the insert. bly (right) and cut it with a bandsaw or jigsaw.

TABLESAWS 47
 A splitter you will actually use New zero-clearance
tablesaw insert
Adding a splitter to a new tablesaw throat insert is an
excellent safety practice. Once installed, neglecting it
requires a conscious effort, so the odds are that it will see
everyday, real-life use.
However, the procedure that’s usually recommended
Center
—extending the kerf behind the blade and gluing in a 1⁄8-in. drill bit

wooden tongue—is hard to pull off without introduc- in sawkerf.

ing minuscule errors. And the slightest error will result

in a device that snags the workpiece. This method solves Drill 3⁄ 32-in. hole in line
with and behind the kerf.
those problems.
Raise the sawblade through the new insert. Then
place the insert against a fence on a drill-press table.
Align things by lowering a drill bit of a diameter equal to
the blade thickness (usually 1⁄ 8 in.) into the kerf. When
the bit is centered in the kerf, lock the fence, change to a
drill bit 1⁄ 32 in. smaller, switch on the drill press, and bore
a hole near the outfeed end of the kerf. Now push that
Glue drill-bit shank in
same drill bit into the hole, shank up, along with a dab hole to make splitter.
of cyanoacrylate glue. The drill bit will now serve as the
splitter pin. It will be aligned perfectly with the sawkerf
and should have about 1⁄ 64 in. of clearance on each side.
MICHAEL STANDISH, Roxbury, Mass.

Mark a roller stand for

faster setups
I use my roller stand with several different tools with dif-
ferent table or outfeed heights. This requires me to adjust
the stand frequently, with all the bending over, sighting,
and readjusting that involves.
Use permanent
To speed up the process and save my back, I marked marker to highlight
correct heights for
the extension shaft of the roller stand to indicate the cor- Use easy-to-remember individual tools.
rect height for different machines. Now all I have to do is abbreviations for the
tools (TS means table-
adjust the extension to the right line, tighten the handle, saw, for example).
and go to work.
—JOEL HARRELL, Raleigh, N.C.

46 SHOP HELPERS
Firm anchor for
a tablesaw featherboard
A featherboard is designed to hold stock against a table-
Brace
saw’s fence and tabletop so you can keep your fingers
away from the blade while ripping. Typically made of
3⁄4-in.-thick hardwood with fingers cut into

the end, a featherboard is clamped just ahead

of the blade. To help anchor the feather-
board, clamp a second board behind and at a
right angle to it to act as a brace. This keeps the
featherboard from pivoting on its clamp point
and thereby releasing pressure on the workpiece
being held in place.
—RICHARD BRENING, Bellevue, Wash.

Featherboard

Tablesaw insert from a kitchen

cutting board
When I discovered the cost of aftermarket zero-clearance
throat inserts for my tablesaw, I decided to make my
Plastic cutting board
own. I bought an ordinary white, high-density-plastic
kitchen cutting board, 1⁄ 2 in. thick. I marked and
cut out several inserts, using the existing metal one
Leveling screws
as a template. I then drilled and tapped four holes
in each insert to install leveling set screws. I
also drilled a finger hole to make it easy
to remove the insert from the saw
table. The cutting-board
material is ideal because
it is inexpensive, friction- Finger hole
free, dense, and stable.
I was able to make several
inserts for less than the price of one
commercially available piece.
—SCOTT SPIERLING, Sunnyvale, Calif.

Zero-clearance
tablesaw insert

TABLESAWS 45
 Blocks improve clamping area
under cast-iron machine tops
Blocks glued to
From time to time, I need to clamp featherboards and ribs under tabletop
other devices to the top of my tablesaw and shaper.
Both tools have cast-iron tabletops with ribs on
the underside, which makes it difficult to find the
right place for a large clamp. The solution for both
machines is to glue blocks of wood to the underside
of the tops to provide a level clamping surface.
I used construction adhesive as the glue.
—LARY SHAFFER, Scarborough, Maine

Smoother cuts on the tablesaw

Tablesaws need accurate alignment to perform well. Offset the fence and add a splitter. For cuts free of burns and
sawmarks, adjust the rip fence so that it is slightly out of parallel
The miter-gauge slots must be adjusted parallel with the
with the miter-gauge slot. A splitter attached to the arbor assem-
blade, and the rip fence should be adjusted slightly out of bly, or integrated into the insert, keeps stock from drifting into the
parallel, which can be done by referencing off the miter blade and catching.
Offset between the
slot. Otherwise the rear of the blade will re-cut wood fence and miter-gauge
Splitter prevents
that has already passed through the front of the blade. kickback. slot at rear of tabletop,
1⁄ 64 in. to 1⁄ 32 in.
To keep the rear of the blade from re-cutting the
stock when ripping, the rip fence needs to be out of par-
allel by 1⁄ 64 in. to 1⁄ 32 in. over its length. In this way, only
the first three or four teeth will be engaged in the actual
cutting, and then the good wood will feed freely past the
rear of the blade—no burning and no sawmarks.
In addition, use a splitter in the table insert or attach
Fence
one to the arbor assembly to prevent the work from com-
ing off the fence and into the blade (causing dangerous
kickback) should it decide to bow on you during a cut.
—GARY ROGOWSKI, Portland, Ore.

Miter-gauge slot, parallel

with the blade

44 SHOP HELPERS
Multiuse joinery jig for the tablesaw
Instead of making multiple jigs for cutting different Tenoning fixture
joints on the tablesaw, I saved time, materials, and space
by making one that can do multiple jobs. It consists
of a carriage that rides my Biesemeyer-style fence and
interchangeable fixtures designed to cut various joints. I
have three fixtures: one for cutting tenons, one for keyed
miters, and one for cutting spline slots.
The carriage is made from 3⁄4-in. Baltic-birch plywood,
but MDF would work as well. To ensure that the mount-
ing holes in all fixtures align with those in the carriage,
make a 1⁄ 4-in.-thick plywood template the same size as the
carriage side. Drill the five 1⁄ 4-in.-dia. holes in the template
and use it to drill the mounting holes in the carriage and in
the fixture base. Install any fences, hold-downs, or clamps
Carriage, 3⁄4-in.-thick
you need with glue and/or screws from behind. MDF or plywood 1⁄4-20 threaded insert
I finished the carriage and fixtures with two coats of Handle
shellac and applied paste wax on the interior of the car-
riage so it slides freely on the rip fence.
—DOUGLAS BLACKE, Olivenhain, Calif.
7 in.

TENONING FIXTURE

12 in.

Machine screws Opening sized

secure each fixture for a snug fit
to the carriage. over rip fence
Fixture base, 1⁄4 in.
thick, is the same size
as the carriage side.

KEYED MITER FIXTURE SPLINE SLOT FIXTURE

Clamp block holds

frame for slotting.

Angle fence 45°

TABLESAWS 43
 Rolling lift for the tablesaw
I often have to move my tablesaw around, so I made a
rolling lift that raises the saw onto casters.
My design has a couple of advantages over the typi-
cal commercially made rolling platforms. Unlike those,
it does not raise the height of the saw by 3 in. to 4 in.
Also, when lowered, the base of the saw rests on the shop
floor, so there’s no intermediate platform to compromise
With the lift installed, you raise the saw simply by
pushing down on the pedal-beam arm until the striker
plate engages the screen-door latch. Once engaged, the
two beams lock together to hold the saw up on the cast-
ers. The beams pivot up when the screen-door latch is
released, lowering the saw base to the floor.
—TIM JANSSEN, Toronto, Ont., Canada

sturdiness.
To build the lift, you need four swivel casters, four
butt hinges, a screen-door latch, some scrap hardwood,
and a few assorted nuts, bolts, and washers. Also, you
need a small piece of metal (I used 1⁄ 8-in.-thick alumi-
num) for a striker plate.
The lift has two main parts: a pedal beam and a catch
beam. Attached to each beam are pairs of casters and
butt hinges. The hinges mount to the base of the saw.
Tablesaw base

Rolling lift
Pedal-beam arm

Striker plate
Screen-door latch Saw base

Saw base
on floor
Catch beam Hinge

Latched lift
raises saw base.

42 SHOP HELPERS
Tablesaw-blade
tightening technique
It can be difficult to get sufficient leverage on the blade of
a cabinet saw when tightening it to the arbor. The goal is
to attach the nut to the arbor bracket firmly without inad-
vertently warping the blade by doing so. Jamming a block
of wood against the blade’s rim or clamping the blade
can permanently distort it. I’ve developed a method that
doesn’t put any stress on the blade. After you get the nut
finger-tight against the blade, place the wrench on the nut,
hold the blade with one hand, and strike the wrench with
a block of hardwood, taking two or three moderate blows.
This method simulates the action of an impact wrench,
Because of the way a saw is designed, you don’t have
to worry about the nut coming loose and the blade flying
off. The direction of the threads on the arbor run in the
opposite direction of the arbor’s rotation; so even if the
nut were loose, it wouldn’t spin off the shaft while the
saw was running.
To remove the nut, reverse the procedure. Place a
shop rag on the edge of the table-insert opening to pre-
vent the wrench handle from dinging the edge of the
opening when the nut comes loose.
—John White, Rochester, Vt.

using the inertia of the saw’s drive system to keep the arbor
still while the nut is tightened with a series of blows.

Steady the blade with slight hand pressure. Then rap on the free end of the wrench a few times with a piece of hardwood to
tighten the nut (left). Loosen the blade the same way (right), but protect the tabletop from the loosened wrench.

Sacrificial rip-fence cover Sacrificial box fits

over the rip fence.
Make a box to fit over your tablesaw’s rip fence. It must
be a snug slip fit in both width and length. Use melamine
pieces on the outside, and you’ll have an almost friction-
free fence you can saw or dado into without damaging
your regular rip fence. The cover is very easy to take on and
off, and mine has lasted longer than I thought it would.
—Blaise Gaston, Earlysville, Va.

TABLESAWS 41
 Tablesaw extension supports
large workpieces
Hardwood IN-USE POSITION
When crosscutting wide materials on the tablesaw, you block sized
to fit inside
need extra support at the front and side of the saw. My fence-rail
support extension slides right into the end of the fence tubing

tubing and can be used or stored in seconds. It is sim-

ply a length of aluminum angle lag-bolted to a length
of hardwood that’s cut to fit snugly against the top
and bottom of the tube. When the extension is in posi-
tion, the aluminum angle should be the same height as
Top of
the top of the table. When it’s not in use, I pull out the extension
extension, rotate it 180°, and reinsert it. It is easily acces- should be
the same
sible yet out of the way at the same time. height as
the saw
—BOB HARTIG, Sheboygan, Wis. Lag bolts table.

Aluminum angle

STORED POSITION

Low-dust lubricants for a tablesaw

If the gears of your tablesaw often become clogged with
sawdust, making them hard to turn, there are two choices
of lubricants that can be applied to the gears to prevent
®
dust buildup. I use a white grease stick by Panef that has
the consistency of soft soap. You can find it in
the automotive aisle of most hardware stores. A
toothbrush will let you apply a thin coat to the
gears that won’t attract much dust.
If you can’t find the stick grease, use a fur-
®
niture wax like Johnson’s paste wax. It works
nearly as well.
To help clean the gears before applying the
grease, use a spray penetrating oil
®
such as WD-40 and a stiff brush. Lubricant keeps dust from sticking. A thin coat of Panef’s white
stick lubricant is easy to apply with a toothbrush and isn’t a dust
—JOHN WHITE, Rochester, Vt. magnet. After scraping some grease onto a toothbrush, press the
bristles into the gears as you rotate them with the handle.

40 SHOP HELPERS
Shopmade fence for a miter gauge
A long, straight sacrificial fence attached to the table-
saw’s miter gauge provides better support for workpieces,
which yields more precise cuts. It also provides a mount-
ing surface for stop blocks or a stop extension stick, and
it prevents chipout on the back edge.
To construct a flat, stable fence, start with two 1⁄ 2-in.-
thick pieces of hardwood or plywood. Make them about
20 in. long by 21⁄ 2 in. tall and face-glue them against a flat
reference surface. Before securing the fence to the miter
gauge, cut a small rabbet along the bottom front edge to
give sawdust a place to go.
Mount the fence so that one side can act as a sweep
for moving cutoffs past the blade. That means having a
few inches of fence extending past the blade. To make a
nonslip surface, you can glue fine sand­paper to the fence.
—Tim Albers, Ventura, Calif.

Sacrificial fence, two lay-

ers of 1⁄ 2-in.-thick
plywood, 20 in. long by
21⁄ 2 in. tall

Small rabbet cut on Holding stock steady. A sacrificial fence

bottom front edge will yield cleaner cuts, and it supports the
offcut. A stop block clamped to the fence
allows repetitive cuts.

Nonslip push stick for the tablesaw

When I used my ordinary push stick on a tablesaw, I had
good control in the north/south direction but less in
the east/west direction, especially when trying to keep Push stick

small workpieces tight against the rip fence. So I

added a nonslip shelf-liner strip to the sole of the
push stick. The shelf liner grabs the workpiece,
giving me more control in all directions.
To attach the liner, first sand the sole
of the push stick to help ensure a good
Double-faced
bond, then attach the strip with double- tape
faced tape.
—Serge Duclos, Delson, Que., Canada
Shelf liner

TABLESAWS 39
 A safer crosscut sled
I once saw a beginner in our shop using a cutoff sled to
crosscut a heavy workpiece. As he neared the end of the
cut, with the far edge of the sled hanging over the back of
the saw table, the sled reared up on him. Luckily, some-
one else was nearby and kept him from flopping the sled
back onto the table and into a spinning blade. After that,
the first thing we did was to build an outfeed table for
that saw. I also decided to make a new, safer crosscut sled.
I made the sled of 3⁄4-in.-thick medium-density
fiberboard because it’s inexpensive, it’s about as hard
as soft maple, and it’s very stable. I milled some scraps
of hardwood for the runners and cut a 24-in. by 32-in.
piece of MDF for the base. I laminated two pieces of
Middle fence is installed
Sled stock,
3⁄4-in.-thick square to the sawblade.
MDF
Base of sled,
24 in. wide
by 32 in. long
Hardwood runners ride
in miter-gauge slots.
38 SHOP HELPERS
MDF for the front and back fences and three pieces for
the middle fence.
I secured the runners with glue and screws because I
didn’t want to risk any possibility of them coming loose
during a cutting operation. After installing the runners, I
sealed and lubricated them with several coats of paste wax.
Before attaching the fences, I cut a kerf into the base
of the sled to give me a reference edge to which I could
square them. Last, I added a block of MDF (three pieces
thick) to fit between the middle and back fences. That
block of MDF makes it virtually impossible to cut your
fingers at the end of a crosscut operation because the
blade is completely buried within the MDF.
—Joe Santapau, Yardley, Pa.
Extra weight at
the back end
keeps the sled
from tipping at the
end of the cut.
Blade is buried within
the block of MDF
at the end of the cut.
 W
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From the Editors,

Contributors, and Readers of
Fine Woodworking