 Spreading:

 Definition:
Fabric spreading is a process by which plies of fabric is spread in order to get required length and
width as per marker dimension. This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying.
Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layer (plies) of specified
length. The cutting marker is layed on the top most layers. The maximum width of the cutting
marker is constrained by the usable width of the fabric.

 Objects of spreading:
1. To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly aligned as to
length and width and without tension.
2. To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the use of multi garment marker plans
and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting many plies at a time.
3. To make every ply plain and flat.

 Requirements of fabric spreading:

1. Alignment of fabric plies:

Every ply should comprise at least width of the marker plan, but should have the minimum
possible extra outside those measurements. The natures of textile materials vary in width. The
marker plan is made of fit the narrowest width. Inaccuracy in this alignment could mean that
plies do not cover the whole area of the marker plan and parts of some pattern pieces would be
missing when cut.
2. Correct ply tension:
The ply tension should be correct. If the tension is low then there will be ridges in the plies and if
the tension is too high then the fabric may shrink after cutting and sewing. The use of spreading
machine gives uniform tension.
3. Fabric must be flat:
The fabric laid on the table should be flat otherwise there will be ridges in it.
4. Elimination of fabric faults:
Fabric faults (holes, stains etc) may be identified by the fabric supplier and additional faults may
be detected during examination of the fabric by the garment manufacturer prior to spreading. The
spreader cuts across the ply at the position of the fault and pulls back the cut end to overlap as far
back on the next splice mark. Splice marks are marked on the edge of the spreading table prior to
spreading, by reference to the marker and ensure that whenever a splice is created the overlap of
fabric is sufficient to allow complete garment parts rather than sections only to be cut.
Computerized methods of achieving this are now available which provide a display of the marker
plan on a computer screen on the spreading machine.
5. Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability:
These two factors must be considered together. They depend on fabric type, pattern shape and
the spreading equipment that is available. When the pattern pieces have been positioned in a
particular direction in the marker plan, it is essential that the fabric is spread in a way that
maintains that direction. Symmetrical pattern pieces all the same way up or face to face. If the
pattern pieces are asymmetrical all the pieces face up or face down.
6. Elimination of static electricity:
In spreading plies of fabric containing manmade fibres, friction may increase the charge of static
electricity in the fabric. Friction may be reduced by changing the method of threading the fabric
through the guide bars of the spreading machine. Humidity in the atmosphere of the cutting room
may also be increased, thus allowing the static electric to discharge continuously through the
atmosphere. In some case it may be necessary to earth the lay.
7. Avoidance of fusion of plies:
In case of thermoplastic fibre fabrics may fuse together during cutting if the cutting knife
becomes hot. We can prevent fabric from fusion by-
a. Using anti-fusion paper,
b. Using silicon lubricants on the knife blade.
c. Reducing ply height.
8. Avoidance of distortion in spread:
There should not be unnecessary friction between the bottom of the spread and the surface of the
table. So a layer of hard polythene sheet is laid at the bottom of the spread.
9. Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles:
Identification marks are used into plies due to color or shade variation of fabric or other cases.
For this separation, low valued colored paper is used to plies.
10. Matching checks or stripes:
If the fabric is checked or stripped then it must be laid to the marker plan and they should be
matched by the help of needle.

 Spreading of textile materials:

 a) Manual spreading
The manual spreading process is suitable for small-scale production. Manual spreading may be
used for all kind of fabrics, including those with complex structures and intricate patterns. In
large-scale production, manual cutting is often used for working with intricately patterned and
high-cut pile fabrics. When compared to automated spreading, the cost of technical equipment in
manual spreading is low, but the productivity is poor.
The manual spreading process is performed in sequential steps. They are marking of the spread
data; spreading of the fabric plies; and fixing a marker on the top of the spread.

 Marking of the spread data

The marker, which is printed on paper, is placed on the spreading table. It is fixed in the required
position and the following spread data are marked on the both sides of the table: the beginning
and end of a spread, splice marks (places in the spread where the fabric may be cut and laid
double to deal with flaws without damaging the cut components) and size change places.

 Fabric spreading
At the beginning of the spreading process, an underlay paper ply is laid on the table to ensure
easy transfer of the spread along the table during the cutting process. The fabric spreading
process is carried out by one/two workers at each side of the spreading table who move the fabric
ply to the beginning of a spread. The end of the fabric ply is placed precisely at the beginning of
the spread and secured. Returning to the initial position (the place where the fabric roll is fixed)
one worker aligns the laid down fabric ply with the edge of the table and the previously spread
fabric plies with a permitted variant of 0.5 cm. The second worker smoothens the surface of the
ply, ensures an even tension in the fabric and prevents creases or folds appearing during the
spreading process. The spreading process is repeated until the desired number of fabric plies are
laid down.
The number of fabric plies in a spread depends on the size of the order, the fabric properties
(thickness, slickness, friction between the fabric and a cutting device, etc.) and the technical
limits of the manual cutting machines (the stroke size, shape of the blade, etc.). Narrow tubular
fabrics and interlinings are spread by a single worker.

 The fixing of a marker on the top of a spread

A marker printed on a paper is placed on the top of a prepared spread. Clamps are placed around
the edges of the spread to hold it in position. If the marker is printed on the paper with glue on its
reverse side, it is lightly fixed to the top ply of the spread by using a special large base iron.
 b) Semi-automated spreading process:
Spreading machine is run on the rails (2 rails) which are placed at two sides of fabric spreading
table surface and operated by motor. Fabric roll is set in a predetermined place of the machine.
Spreading machine is run from one side to the other side of the table by using electrical and
mechanical motion and fabric is spread to make lay. The operator smooths the surface of the lay,
identifies faults in the spread fabric and decides whether to leave faults in the spread or to cut
them out. The operator uses a manually operated speed control handle to change the spreading
speed and to reduce the speed in problematic areas, or even to stop the spreading process if it is
necessary to define the location of a fault and to cut it out. Some machines have three control
buttons instead of a speed control handle: forward, reverse and stop. In these machines, the
height of the cutting device is also changed manually or by using a special control button.

 c) Automated spreading
Automated spreading systems have significantly increased the productivity of the spreading
process, but have not altered its main work principles. Similar operations are performed in both
the manual and the automated spreading processes.
Several companies produce automated spreading machines for a variety of textile products such
as: clothing, furniture, car interiors, technical textiles and several other industries. The best
known of these are: Lectra1 (France), spreading machines of Progress- Brio series; Gerber10
(USA), XLs series; Kuris11 (Germany), SHATTLE and A series; Assyst-Bullmer6 (USA);
Eastman12 (USA); Cosmotex13 (Spain), APOLO series; FK group7 (Italy); B.K.R. Italia14
(Italy); and Oshima15 (Taiwan).

 Advantages of Automated spreading:

1. Fabric checking system is available by photo-sensor cell.
2. Automatic Tensioning device is available.
3. Auto leveler is used to align the fabric selvedge.
4. Any crease or fold in the fabric is removed by method.
5. Ply number is previously set automatically and after spreading of the lay, the machine gives
signal and stopped automatically.
6. Automatic loading and unloading device present for fabric rolls.
7. Spreading length is maintained automatically as per set length.
8. This method has rolled turning arrangement.
9. Automatic cutting device is present at the end of spreading.
10. Operator does not require walking up and down because the running head has a small
platform for the operator.
11. By robotic method, during spreading if fabric roll is finished, spreading head turns to the end
of housing of the table and the new fabric roll takes spreading head and starts spreading with
splice.
12. All types of fabric and fabric lay can be spread by this method.

 Disadvantages of Automated spreading:

 High expenses
 Cannot spread materials with intricate patterns
 Very skilled worker is needed for operating machine.
Comparison of manual and automated spreading processes:

Parameters Manual spreading Automated spreading

Spreading equipment
Spreading principles
Spreading method
Advantages of the method
Disadvantages of the method
 Spreading table
 Fabric feeder
 Cutting device
 Spreading of pre-set
number of plies
 Visual flaw
identification by an
operator
 Splicing manually
using on the table marked
splice marks and printed
markers
 All kind of fabrics –
manually
 Ability to spread all
kind of materials
 Low expenses
 Low productivity
 Two operators
needed minimum
 High work load for
an operator
 Spreading table
 Spreading machine
 Spreading of pre-set
number of plies
 Visual flaw
identification by an
operator
 Splicing using
registered data about flaw
placements and special
software
 High-quality easy
spread fabrics – fully
automated way
 High productivity
 Only one operator
needed
 Low work load for
an operator
 High expenses
 Cannot spread
materials with intricate
patterns

 Spreading machine and its main parts

Multiply spreading is performed by a spreading machine that provides fabric feeding and
transportation over the spreading table and ensures tension-free spreading. Spreading machines
can work with materials of varied types and quality, as well as with woven, nonwoven or knitted
materials. Fabrics can be kept folded and rolled.
Spreading machines are designed to work with fabrics of differing weight and are categorised
according to the maximum weight of the spread fabric roll:
• Rolls up to 60 kg - spreading machines for light fabrics (roll diameter 300e500 mm).
• Rolls of 100-200 kg - spreading machines for medium heavy fabrics (roll diameter 500-700
mm).
• Rolls of more than 200 kg - spreading machines for heavy fabrics (roll diameter more than 700
mm).
Special spreading machines are available for: napped and pile fabrics (machines with a
turntable); technical materials and denim fabrics (for long and high lays, large and heavy rolls);
highly elastic fabrics (for production of lingerie) and tubular fabrics. Spreading machines are
also characterised by the maximum height of a fabric lay, the working width and spreading
speed. The automated spreading process is performed on special tables. The main parts of a
spreading machine are a fabric spreader truck, a fabric feed system, an automatic cutting
device, an end-catcher, an operator stand panel, an encoder system, and a control panel.

Automated Fabric Spreading Machine

 Spreading table
 Fabric spreader truck
 Fabric feed system
 Automatic cutting device
 End-catcher
 Operator stand panel
 Encoder system
 Control panel