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APPLYING VALUE STREAM MAPPING TECHNIQUE IN APPAREL INDUSTRY

KONFEKSİYON SEKTÖRÜNDE DEĞER AKIŞI HARİTALANDIRMA TEKNİĞİNİN
UYGULANMASI

Article  in  Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon · October 2013

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APPLYING VALUE STREAM MAPPING

TECHNIQUE IN APPAREL INDUSTRY

KONFEKSİYON SEKTÖRÜNDE DEĞER AKIŞI HARİTALANDIRMA

TEKNİĞİNİN UYGULANMASI
*
Esra Zeynep YILDIZ1, Mücella GÜNER2

1
Ege University, Emel Akın Vocational Training School, Izmir, Turkey
2
Ege University, Department of Textile Engineering, Izmir, Turkey

Received: 02.05.2013 Accepted: 16.07.2013

ABSTRACT
Lean production focuses on eliminating waste and increasing the effiency of system continuously. Value, the starting point of lean
production, is a property of a product or service that customer is willing to pay and it provides the needs of customer at a specific time
and price. Value stream mapping is one of the important tools of lean production. It is a pencil and paper tool that helps to see and
understand the flow of material and information as a product makes its waythrough the value stream. In this paper, a value stream
mapping study was carried out in a apparel company which produces jeans. First, the current state was introduced. Then by using lean
techniques and methods future state map was created. The results of this study, outlining improvements and expected benefits, were
proposed.
Key Words: Lean production, Value, Waste, Value stream mapping, Apparel industry.

ÖZET
Yalın üretim, sistemdeki israfları ortadan kaldırmak ve sürekli olarak sistem etkinliğini artırmak temeline dayanmaktadır. Yalın
düşüncenin başlangıç noktası olan değer; müşterinin parasını ödemeye hazır olduğu, ihtiyaçlarını belirli zaman diliminde, belirli fiyattan
karşılayan, belirli özelliklere sahip belirli bir ürün ve/veya hizmet yaratılmasıdır. Değer akışı haritalandırma yalın üretimin önemli
araçlarından birisidir. Bir kağıt kalem tekniği olarak ifade edilen değer akışı haritalandırma, ürünün geçtiği akışlar boyunca oluşan
malzeme ve bilgi akışının görülmesine ve anlaşılmasına yardımcı olur. Bu çalışmada, denim pantolon üretimi yapan bir konfeksiyon
firmasında değer akışı haritalandırma çalışması uygulanmıştır. Öncelikle mevcut durum ortaya konulmuş, sonrasında yalın teknik ve
metotlar uygulanarak gelecek durum haritası oluşturulmuştur. Önerilen gelişmeler ve beklenen faydalar çalışmanın sonuçları olarak
sunulmuştur.
Anahtar Kelimeler: Yalın üretim, Değer, İsraf, Değer akışı haritalandırma, Konfeksiyon sektörü.

Corresponding Author: Esra Zeynep Yıldız, esra.zeynep.yildiz@ege.edu.tr, Tel: +90 232 311 18 66, Fax: +90 232 342 60 53

1. INTRODUCTION
The term “lean” means a series of
activities or solutions to eliminate
waste, reduce non-value added
operations, and improve the value
added (1). Waste takes many forms
and can be found at any time and in
any place. It may be found hidden in
policies, procedures, process and
product designs, and in operations.
Waste consumes resources but does
not add any value to the product (2).
Waste can be defined as anything
other than the minimum amount of
equipment, materials, parts, and
working time that are essential to
production. It (“muda” in Japanese)
has seven types: overproduction,
waiting time, transportation, inventory,
over processing, motion, and defective
product (3). Waiting times, correcting
the seam faults and breakdown of
machines are the major causes of
disturbance. These disturbances
reduce the efficiency of manufacturing
time and may upset production
schedules during execution (4).
Value stream mapping (VSM) is one of
the important subjects and tools of
lean production. It was pioneered by
Taiichi Ohno and Shiego Shingo (5). A
value stream is a collection of all
actions (value added as well as non-
value-added) that are required to bring
a product (or a group of products that
use the same resources) through the
main flows, starting with raw material
and ending with the customer. These
actions consider the flow of both
information and materials within the
overall supply chain. The ultimate goal
of VSM is to identify all types of waste
in the value stream and to take steps
to try and eliminate these (6). Another
goal is to build a chain of production

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013 393

where the individual processes are
linked to their customers either by
continuous flow or pull, and each
process gets as close as possible to
producing only what its customer need
when they need it (7).
By this technique, a product’s
production path from customer to
supplier is followed, and a visual
representation of every process in
material and information flow is
carefully drawn. Then by answering a
set of key questions, a future stare
map of how value should flow is
drawn. Doing this over and over is the
simplest way to learn how to see value
and especially the sources of waste
(7).
2. LITERATURE REVIEW
Rother and Shook had introduced the
value stream mapping tool to the lean
production literature and they
described the current and future state
value stream map creation processes
in their book, “Learning to See: Value-
Stream Mapping to Create Value and
Eliminate Muda” (7). Hines and Rich
(1997) proposed seven tools derived
from industrial engineering to identify
the wastes present in any system (8).
In recent years, many literatures have
extensively documented the
implementation of lean manufacturing,
in various manufacturing sectors (9).
Arbulu et al. (2003) presented a case
study that documents the most
common configuration of the supply
chain for pipe supports used in power
plants in the USA (10). McDonald et al.
(2002) selected motor as a product
family (11). Braglia et al. (2006),
implemented their application within an
electro domestic manufacturing firm
considering in particular the plant
devoted to refrigerators production
(12).
Emiliani and Stec (2004) emphasized
the use of value stream maps to the
field of leadership and organizational
improvement. They described the use
of value stream maps for determining
the beliefs, behaviors and
competencies possessed by business
leaders (13).
Shen and Han (2006) analyzed the
possiblity to adapt VSM in electrical
manufacturing services (EMS) industry
394
in China. Production lead time was
reduced from 23.5 days to 4.5 days
and value added lead time was
reduced from 184 sec to 166 sec. Also
costs were reduced, response to the
customer’s needs were increased (14).
Lasa et al (2008) carried out VSM
application in a company which
manufactures plastic parts that make
up mobile phone bodies, button units
and keypads. Production lead time
was reduced from 26 days to 20 days
and value added lead time was
reduced from 0.7 days to 0.5 days.
Also they reported an achievement in
cost savings and a reduction of raw
material, semi-finished and finished
goods inventory (15).
Another application of VSM was carried
out by Singh and Sharma (2009) in
crank shaft gear manufacturing line.
They made development by calculating
TAKT time and improving Kanban
system. Production lead time was
reduced from 53.31 days to 4.11 days,
92,58 percent reduction in lead time
was achieved. Value added lead time
was also reduced from 1702 minutes to
1665 minutes (2).
VSM has been applied in variety of
industries and major of the studies
were especially carried out in
automative industry. However, there
are a limited number of articles about
VSM application in apparel industry.
Hodge et al. (2011) conducted a
research project to determine which
lean principles are appropriate for
implementation in the textile industry.
The use of lean manufacturing in the
textile industry was examined in the
research through interviews, plant
tours and case studies (16).
Senthil Kumar and Sampath (2012)
focused on implementation of Lean
tool for minimizing the Work in
progress (WIP), line setting time in a
knitted t-shirt production industry which
in turn reduces the cost of production.
The paper was based on the two fold
objective of investigation of VSM in
existing product line and to alter the
same with new cellular based layout.
The proposed VSM through the
support of cellular layout reduced the
WIP level significantly. By reducing
various non value activities in the
cellular layout the production lead time
had reduced from 2 days to 20 min,
which would enhance the
manufacturer to go with short term
order quantity also (17).
Marudhamuthu et al. (2011) presented
a case study of VSM in an Indian
garment export industry. The objective
was to evolve and test various
strategies to eliminate waste and to
improve the productivity. Existing state
production floor was modified by using
VSM efficiently to improve the
production process by identifying
waste and its causes. At the same
time, set up time was also reduced
considerably (9).
Silva (2012), identified the applicability
of VSM for the apparel industry in Sri
Lanka. The findings revealed that VSM
can be applied to mass production
apparel industries in order to derive
positive results such as reducing
wastes in inventory and defects.
Further, VSM helped the managers of
the case company to visualize the
different types of wastes generated in
the organization and future possibilities
of eliminating or reducing them. The
lead time reduced from 23.916 to
11.951 min, also there was reduction
in work-in-progress (WIP) inventory
(18).
3. MATERIAL AND METHOD
The research is conducted in an
apparel company whose major
products are jeans, skirts and shorts in
various order size. Company's
manufacturing units comprise cutting,
sewing, washing, quality control and
finishing departments. All products
manufactured are processed through
finishing, preliminary quality control,
ironing and final quality control
processes, which include sewing of
such accessories as buttons, rivets,
snappers and eyelets. The company
has a monthly production capacity of
500.000 pieces.
3.1. Material
The most important product group of
the manufacturer is jeans. In this
study, the model given in Figure 1
which is frequently produced within
jeans product group is chosen as
material.
TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013

Figure 1. Jeans model
3.2. Method
VSM was used for the elimination of
the wastes in the enterprise. It is
based on four phases. The main steps
in VSM are shown in Figure 2.
Figure 2. Value stream mapping
processes
3.2.1. Selecting product family
The first step in VSM is selecting the
product family. A family is a group of
products that pass through similar
processing steps and over common
equipment in processes (7).
The jean model seen in Figure 1 which
is frequently produced as product
group is chosen for VSM application.
3.2.2. Drawing the Current State
Map
The second step in VSM process is
drawing the current state map.
Drawing material flow on the current
state map should always start with the
process that is most linked to the
customers, which in most cases is the
shipping department, and then working
ones way up to the upstream
processes (19).
TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013
While walking the flow, several types
of information can be collected, such
as (20, 21);
• Cycle time or processing time,
• Changeover time,
• Machine utilization rate,
• First pass yield,
• Quantities,
• Operating times (except the breaks),
• Number of operators and shifts,
• Electronic information,
• Inventory levels,
• Queue or waiting times,
• Production batch sizes,
• Product line,
• Pallets dimension.
So the current state is cleared and
below steps are mentioned (22);
1. Value-added activities involve the
conversion or processing of raw
materials or semi-finished products
through the use of manual labor.
Examples include activities such as
subassembling of parts, forging
raw materials, and painting
bodywork. Thus, value added
activities are the machinery
working time required to produce a
product.
2. Necessary but non-value added
activities may be wasteful but are
necessary under the current
operating procedures. Examples
include such as walking long
distances to pick up parts,
unpacking deliveries, and
transferring a tool from one hand to
another.
3. Non-value added activities stands
for the pure waste and involves
unnecessary actions, which can be
eliminated completely. Examples
include waiting time, stacking
intermediate products, double
handling. Typically, 95% of all lead
time is non-value added activities.
Figure 3 shows the current-state
value-stream map of the selected
product family. It includes the following
informations.
• The daily working time: 540 min.,
Break time: 90 min. ,
Available working time: 450 min.
• Customer requirements communicated
electronically as 60 day forecasts and
30 day orders; production control
communicated to supplier electronically
as 60 day forecasts and 30 day
orders according to customer
requirements.
• Production control department
calculates weekly requirements and
delivers a print-out of schedule to
each process, and print-out of daily
ship schedule to shipping
department.
• For this product family, the demand
of the customer is 28.350.
• 270 cloth batch is necessary to
complete the order. Shipment of raw
materials from supplier takes place
1 time in 10 days.
• The product is shipped to customer
after the steps of incoming quality
control (IQC), spreading, cutting,
preparation for sewing, assembly,
washing and quality control
processes.
• There are 35 cloth batches waiting
for incoming quality control process.
Each cloth batch contains
approximately 150 meters of fabric.
Fabric consumption for this model is
about 1.3 m./pcs. The day basis
inventory amount between
processes is calculated as follows;
Amount of daily production: 28.350
pcs.: 21 day = 1.350 pcs./day
35 batch* 150 m. = 5250 m. fabric
5250 m.: 1.3 m./pcs. = 4038 pcs
inventory,
4038 pcs. : 1350 pcs./day = 3 days
inventory.
• In incoming quality control process
(IQC), a cloth batch which contains
150 meters of fabric is controlled
approximately in 10 min. (600 sec.)
600 sec. : 150 m. = 4 sec./m.
IQC time for a product = 1,3 m. *4
sec./m. = 5.2 sec. cycle time (C.T.)
Changeover time (C/O) = 250 sec.
• The fabrics contains elasthane so
that fabrics must be hung for at
least 12 hours after the IQC
process.
395
• There is 5000 m. fabric inventory
between IQC and spreading. The
day basis inventory amount between
processes is calculated as follows;
Amount of daily production: 28.350
pcs.: 21 day = 1.350 pcs./day
5000 m.: 1.3 m./pcs. = 3846 pcs
inventory,
3846 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 2.85
days inventory.
• The marker length for this model is
calculated as 9.91 m. Spreading the
fabrics with 50 plies take 43
minutes. The cycle time required to
spread one piece is calculated as
follows;
50 plies * 9.91 m. = 495.5 m. fabric
495.5 m.: 1.3 m./pcs. = 381 pcs. (43
min. * 60 sec.): 381 pcs. = 6.75 sec.
(Cycle time of spreading for a piece)
• There is 307 m. fabric inventory
between spreading and cutting
processes.
307 m.: 1.3 m./pcs. = 236 pieces
inventory,
236 pcs.: 1.350 pcs./day = 0.175
days inventory.
• It takes approximately 40 minutes to
cut 50 plies with 9.91 m. marker
length. The cycle time required to cut
one piece is calculated as follows;
50 plies * 9.91m. = 495.5 m. fabric
495.5 m.: 1.3 m./pcs. = 381 pcs.
(40 min.* 60 sec.): 381 pcs. = 6.29 sec.
(Cycle time of cutting for a piece)
• In the “preparation of front part of
jeans”, “preparation of back part of
jeans”, “assembly 1” and “assembly
2” processes, different operations
take place sequentially. Durations of
these processes are calculated. The
process time of preparation of front
part of jeans is 13.11 min.,
preparation of back part of jeans is
1.35 min., assembly 1 is 6.1 min.
and assembly 2 is 1.75 min.
• Between sewing and cutting processes,
there is 1250 pieces inventory.
1250 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.925 days
• The preparation of front part of
jeans and preparation of back part
of jeans processes take place
parallel. Because the cycle time of
back piece is much shorter than
front, too much inventory is created
before assembly 1 process.
396
• Between preparation of front part of
jeans and assembly 1 processes,
there is 125 pieces. The day basis
inventory amount between
processes is calculated as follows;
125 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.09
days inventory.
• Between preparation of back part of
jeans and assembly 1 processes,
there is 700 pieces. The day basis
inventory amount between processes
is calculated as follows;
700 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.52
days inventory.
• After the preparation of front part of
jeans and preparation of back part
of jeans processes, the front and
back pieces are sewn to each other
in assembly 1 process. Between
sewing and assembly 1 processes,
there is 0.61 (0.09 + 0.52) daily
inventory.
• Between assembly 1 and assembly
2 processes, there is 225 pieces
inventory. The day basis inventory
amount between processes is
calculated as follows;
225 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.167
days inventory.
• The washing process is carried out
by sub-contractor. This process
takes about 4.5 hour.
• Between assembly 2 and washing
processes, there is 475 pieces.
Also between washing and quality
control processes, there is 1780
pieces. The day basis inventory
amount between processes is
calculated as follows;
475 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.35
days inventory.
1780 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 1.32
days inventory.
• After washing process, the finished
products are taken into quality
control process. Quality control
process for each product is
approximately 35 sec. Between
quality control and shipping there is
520 finished product. The day basis
inventory amount between
processes is calculated as follows;
520 pcs.: 1350 pcs./day = 0.385
days inventory.
• Completed products are shipped to
the customer once per week.
The lead times between each process
were added to get the production lead
time, and the cycle times at each
process were added to get the value
added time.
As can be seen from the map (Figure
3) the value added lead time for the
existing process is 0.2 days (4 hours
and 53 Minutes), whereas production
lead time is 9.782 days. 97.95% of the
lead time is consist of preparation and
waiting time. It is not possible to
eliminate this durations completely, but
it should be reduced to a reasonable
level. The result of this situation is the
necessity to work on eliminating
preparation and waiting times. For this
purpose, it is continued to draw
“Future State Map”.
3.2.3. Drawing The Future State Map
The third step in VSM is to create the
future state map, which is a picture of
how the system should look after the
inefficiencies have been removed.
Creating a future state map is done by
answering a set of questions on issues
related to efficiency, and on technical
implementation related to the use of
lean tools. This map then becomes the
basis for making the necessary
changes to the system (6).
The main purpose of drawing the
future state map is to identify which
and where the lean manufacturing
tools and techniques will be used.
The current state value stream map
serves as the starting point for
developing the future state (23). It
should represent the elimination of
non-value added steps, the
implementation of a pull system, and
the unobstructed flow of the product
through the system (24).
When the current state map is
examined, it is observed that production
lead time is increased because of the
inventory levels between processes.
Therefore, inventory is one of the
biggest waste source.
Figure 4 shows the future state value
stream map. It includes the following
informations.
Shipment of raw materials from supplier
takes place in a long period, so raw
material inventory stays longer in the
warehouse. By increasing the frequency
of shipping, big amounts of inventory can
be prevented. Establishing a
supermarket for cloth batches and
shipping raw materials from supplier
twice a week are proposed.
TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013
 Figure 3. Current state map

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013 397

In the future state, the schedule is sent
to shipping, where a supermarket will
be created. When the stock in the
supermarket reaches a certain level, a
kanban signal will schedule the
production at the downstream
processes.
By providing IQC is done by supplier,
only statistically quality controlled raw
materials will be taken into spreading.
For a cloth batch that consist of 150
meter fabric, 10 minute time saving will
be provided and waste of waiting time
will be prevented.
Because of the disorganisation of
enterprise, between spreading and
cutting departments, waiting times are
occured. By making Kaizen
applications, continuous flow is aimed
to be achieved between spreading and
cutting processes. So the spreaded
fabrics will be taken directly into cutting
without inventory and waiting times.
Pacemaker process sets the pace for
the rest of the value stream. It’s the
one and only operation that receives
the production schedule. The
pacemaker produces to the takt time
and sets the pace for the upstream
operations to produce only enough to
replenish what the pacemaker
operation has consumed. Downstream
of the pacemaker operation, the
process must produce in a continuous
flow (25).
For this case it was decided that the
pacemaker process should coincide
with the system’s bottleneck, the
preparation of back part of jeans /
assembly processes. From this point,
the aforementioned FIFO lines will be
established downstream, as will the
supermarket pull systems upstream.
Therefore, supermarkets will be placed
IQC and spreading / cutting, spreading
/ cutting and preparation of front part of
jeans.
Table 1. The gains obtained after future state map on the basis of departments
Incoming
Warehous Spreadin
quality
e g
control
Befor
e 3 day 2,85 day 0.175 day
VSM
After
1 day - 0.3 day
VSM
398
In the future state map, similar
operation with respect to product
families or the operations, which are all
forming a common, product are
grouped. So assembly processes and
preparation of back parts are grouped
together.
Preparation of back part of jeans /
assembly department pulls products
from preparation of front part of jeans
department.
Because of the washing process is
carried out by sub-contractor, FIFO
system was established between
preparation of back part of jeans /
assembly and quality control
departments, to ensure continuous
flow.
Due to the long changeover time of
sewing and assembly processes, with
implementations for reducing the
changeover time, an increment in
productivity will be provided.
By daily shipment to the customers,
the inventory will be prevented in
quality control process.
In addition to these activities, with total
productive maintenance (TPM), the
equipments and materials will be
maintained periodically, so the faults
and downtimes caused by machine
failure will be prevented. Also with 5S
methodology, a clean and neat
workplace will be established.
As can be seen from Figure 4,
production lead time is reduced from
9.762 days to 3.4 days, 65.17%
reduction in lead time was achieved.
4. FINDINGS
After all these activities, an action plan
is prepared. This plan describes how,
when and by whom the transition to
the new situation will be performed. As
the plans for future state is fulfilled, at
a certain time they will turn into the
Preparatio
n of front Assembly Assembly
Cutting
part of 1 2
jeans
0.925
0.61 day 0.167 day 0.35 day
day
0.1 day 1 day
current situation and consequently the
mapping process will be repeated by
preparing a new future state map. In
other words, “continuous
improvement” will be provided in the
value stream (20). Table 1 shows the
gains that are obtained by the VSM
applications on the basis of
departments when the current state
map and the proposed future state
map is compared.
5. CONCLUSIONS
The goal of lean manufacturing is to
become highly responsive to customer
demand while producing quality
products in the most efficient and
economical manner by reducing
various waste in human effort,
inventory, time to market and
manufacturing space (2).
For this purpose, it is required to see
the complete visual flow in value chain,
to eliminate the wastes and to canalize
all activities to create value for
customers.
Waste is defined as anything that does
not add value to the customer and also
it could be defined as anything the
customer is unwilling to pay for.
At this point, value stream mapping
technique is used to implement lean
transformation and to improve it
continually. VSM applications provides
increased competitiveness by making
enterprises become more simplier.
In this study, flow of value, waste and
waste sources in the value stream was
tried to clarified by using value stream
mapping. The current state was
analyzed and ideas for improving
system performance were proposed.
Value stream mapping should be
repeated periodically in order to
achieve better system performance
with continuous improvement view.
Washin Quality Production
g Control lead time
0.385
1.32 day 9.782 day
day
1 day - 3.4 day
TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013
 Figure 4. Future state map

TEKSTİL ve KONFEKSİYON 23(4), 2013 399

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