DESIZING OF COTTON

(Enzymatic DE sizing)

Aim: To estimate the size content of the fabric by enzyme desizing method.

Apparatus: Vats, measuring jar, physical balance, steel rods

Object : to remove the size content in the fabric.

Chemicals used and their functions:

T R oil: remove the surface tension of the fabric improves the wettability.

Salt : Regulate the temperature

Enzyme: Hydrolyze the starch content in the fabric.

Procedure:

 The given cotton fabric is weighed in a physical balance

 The fabric is boiled in warm water for 15-20 minutes.
 In a clean vat small quantity of water is taken in which 2-3 drops of wetting agent
T R Oil is added and fabric is wetted thoroughly.
 In another clean vat, water (1:30) enzyme and salt are added as per calculation.
 Sample is dipped in the mixture at 60 ® C for an hour.
 Fabric is washed in hot water and then in cold water.
 Fabric dried after washing.

Recipe:

M:L=1:30

T R Oil 0.5 %

Salt: 1%

Enzyme: 2%

Temperature 60 ® C

Fabric Fabric
Before Desizing After Desizing
Calculations:

Calculation:

Weight of the material 8.2 gms

M:L=1:30

Total amount of water = 8.2 X 30 =246

Wetting agent = 0.5%

= 8.2 x 0.5

100

=0.041

Salt = 8.2 x 1

100

=0.082

Enzyme = 8.2 X 2

100

=0.164

% age of size content = 8.2 – 7.7 X 100 = -85.7024390243

8.2
 Result : The percentage of starch content in the fabric -85.7024390243%

Scouring of Cotton

Aim: To remove the fats, oil, wax, pectin’s proteins in the fabric by scouring and
estimate the percentage of scouring loss and strength loss.

Apparatus: Physical weighing balance, vat, steel rods, measuring jar, heating bath.

Chemicals used and their functions:

T R Oil : To increase the wettability in the fabric.

Caustic Soda NaoH And soda Ash : to make oils and fats to emulsified liquid.

Detergent: To remove the dirt, and natural and added emulsified liquid from the fabric.

Recipe:

T R Oil: 0.5%

NaoH 2%

Na2Co3 2%

Detergent 1%

PH 8 to 9

Temperature : Boiling

Duration 2 hours

Procedure:

 The given cotton material is first weighed in a physical balance.

 Fabric is wetted in a vat with wetting agent for 10 minutes.
  Caustic soda, soda ash, and detergent are added in the vat, mixed well and
fabric is entered in it.
 Due bath temperature is raised for boiling.
 Worked for 2 hours
 Washed in hot water and then cold water.
 Dried.

Before scouring after

scouring

Calculation:

Weight of the material 8.2gms

M:L ratio = 1:30

Amount of water =8.2 x 30=246

T Roil = 0.5%

8.2x0.5/100=0.041

Caustic Soda NaOH = 2%

8.2x2/100=0.164

Soda Ash Na2CO3 = 2 %

8.2x2/100=0.164

Detergent = 1%

8.2x1/100=0.082

Scouring loss: 8.2-7.7x100/8.2= -85.1024390243

Result: Scouring loss o cotton is -85.1024390243%

BLEACHING OF COTTON

Aim: To bleach the given cotton fabric using hydrogen peroxide

Apparatus: Physical balance, vat, stirrer, measuring jar, heating bath etc,

Objective: the scouring process will remove wax and other impurities from cotton and
leaves the material in a very absorbent condition but natural colouring matter is still
present in the cloth and has a creamy appearance. In order to obtain to white material
and facilitate the production pale and bright shades it is necessary to determine the
natural colouring matter in the fabric.

Chemicals used and their functions:

Hydrogen peroxide H2O2: removes the natural colouring matter.

Sodium silicate: It acts as stabilizer for the bleaching action of H 2O2.

Recipe:

Hydrogen peroxide: 20 ml/ Liter

Sodium Silicate : 1 gpl

Temperature 80 to 85®C

Time 1.5 hours

PH 10-11

 Procedure:
 The given cotton material is weighed first
 As per the M:L amount of water is taken in a bleaching bath
 Hydrogen peroxide and sodium silicate is added to the bath
 Material is entered in bath worked for 15 minutes
 PH is maintained at 10-11
 Temperature is raised to 80-85® C
 Worked for 1 hour 15 minutes
 Cold wash
 Dried

Calculation:
Material weight8.2gms
M:L = 1:30
Amount of water = 8.2 X 30=246
Hydrogen peroxide = 20 ml / liter
246x20/1000= 4.92

Sodium silicate = 246x1/1000-0.246

Result: natural colouring matter is removed and achieved white effect on the
cotton fabric.
Mercerizing

Aim: To obtain more absorption and luster in cotton fabric

Apparatus : measuring jar, mercerizing bath, hydrometer,

Chemicals used and their functions:

Caustic soda: NaOH make structural change in cotton fiber, from ribbon state to round
in nature. Cotton convolution also changes from been shape to almost round in nature.

Recipe:

M: L = 1:20

NaOH caustic soda: 50 to 55® Twaddle

Duration: 10 minutes

Calulation: 300 gms/ liter caustic soda

Procedure:

 Mercerization is a process of treating of cotton material with concentrated

solution of caustic soda under tension.
 The bleached fabric is given sufficient stretch under tension.
 Caustic soda is mixed in water and checked for its strength up to 50-55® twaddle
with hydrometer.
 Fabric is passed in the concentrated caustic soda solution for ten minutes.
 The fabric is then washed thoroughly one or two times.
 Drying properly under the sun or in a woven.

Result: The treated fabric is more shine, absorbent, more strength.

Optical Brightening
Aim: To achieve more whiteness in the cotton fabric.
Apparatus: measuring Jar, weighing Balance, dye bath.
Chemicals used and their function:
 Ranipal or Tinopal: It improves the brightness in the cotton fiber
Recipe:
Ranipal : 1-2 gpl
Duration: 10 to 15 minutes.

Procedure:

 The fabric is wetted first in water

 Fabric is passed in 1-2 gpl Ranipal solution in padding mangle one or two times.
 Washed and dried.

Result: The fabric is much bright.

Dyeing with Direct dyes

Dyes derived from the formation of benzadine and its substitute derivative and amines
from polyazo dyes. Direct dyes are so named because the Dyestuff colours material
directly without pre-treatment or preparation in a neutral or alkaline bath. Direct dyes are
water soluble.

Procedure:

Direct dyes are the first dyes invented and directly applied on to the cotton material.

They are water soluble dyes.

Direct dyes have affinity and substantively towards cotton material.

The dye solution is prepared by mixing the dye with pinch of soda ash and cold water
followed by addition of hot water.

Set the dye bath with dye solution and cold water using M:L = 1:20 after proper
calculation as per % shade and weight of the material.

Wet the fabric in cold water and squeeze thoroughly. Enter this fabric in the set dye bath
and work for few minutes.

Initial dyeing at room temperature for 10 min. Raise the temperature to 40°C in 10
minutes. Add 10% of common salt work for 10 min.

Remove the fabric anther 10% of common salt is added mixed with the steel rod, raise
the temperature 70 - 80®C for 30 min. works with the fabric thoroughly.

Remove the fabric from the dyeing bath wash with hot water and then with cold water.

Produce wide range of colours and shades.

Colours are duller than basic or acid dyes

Applied primarily to cellulosic fibers of cotton

Most widely used of all dyestuff for viscose rayon fibers.

Used limited extent on protein fibers such as wool and polyamides

Simple to apply and require no special equipment of fixative.

Applies colours to fabric directly with one application or impregnation and without
preliminary treatment.

Require no fixative agents or mordents to adhere or fix colors.

Used as background color of discharge printing.

Not as a color fast to light, perspiration, crocking and laundering as other dyes.

To improve color fastness, an after treatment of resins may be applied

Tend to bleed readily.

Least expensive to produce and easy to apply.

After treatment: the fabric is washed with non-ionic dye fixing agent with 1-2 gpl.

Report: The given cotton fabric is dyed with direct dyes at 0.5%, 1.5%. and 2.5% shade.

Given data

Weight of the material =2 gms (say)

Shade = 2%

Dye conc. = 1.5%

Common salt = 20%

M:L = 1:20

Dye calculation:

Weight of the material = 8.2gms

100 gm of fabric requires 2 gm of dye

Therefore 8.2gm of fabric requires 8.2X 2÷100 = 0.164gm of dye

Salt calculation:

Conc. Of common salt = 20%

100 gm of fabric needs 20 gm of salt

Therefore 8.2gm of fabric requires 20×8.2 ÷ 100 = 1.64m of salt

Water calculation:

Total volume of the bath = M:L = 1:20

= 8.2X 20

= 164ml

Therefore volume of water required:

Total volume of the bath – (volume of dye solution + volume of salt solution)

= 40 – (8.2 + 2)

= 40 - 16.4

= 23.6 ml

Aim: To the dye the cotton fabric with the given direct dyes

Apparatus: stainless steel Wesel, Steel rod, thermometer, weighing machine, stove.

Chemicals used and their functions:

T. R Oil: It reduces the surface tension of the fabric and improves the wettability of the
fabric.

Soda ash (Na2Co3): It removes the hardness of the water.

Glauber salt or Common salt: It acts as an exhausting agent for direct dyes.

Dye fixing agent: It improves the fastness properties for direct dyes.
Cotton Dyeing with Reactive Dyes (Hot Brand)

`Dyes derived from the formulation of anthraquinoid and pathalocynane which combine
and react chemically with molecules of fibers. Reactive dyes are water soluble.
  Produce bright colours in brilliant shades
 Absorb rapidly
 Used primarily on cellulosic fibres of cotton, linen and rayon
 May be used on wool, silk, acrylic, nylon and blended fabrics.
 Relatively expensive due to use high cost of dyestuff and lengthier wash cycles.
 Excellent colour fastness to washing, dry cleaning, sun light, crocking, gas
fading, and perspiration.
 Susceptible to chlorine bleach damage.
 Procion-H type will react with cellulose in presence of sodium carbonate at the
temperature range of 75-90®C;

Aim: To dye the given cotton fabric with Hot brand reactive dyes

Apparatus: weighing balance, heating bath, steel rods, PH paper,.

Chemicals used and their functions:

Glauber Salt: Used as an exhausting agent for reactive dyes

Soda Ash: Used as a dye fixing agent for reactive dye.

Reactive dyes, the most important class of dyes available today, reacts with hydroxyl
group of cellulose (-OH) forming covalent bond. These water soluble dyes give brilliant
shade on cellulosic material with good fastness to washing & rubbing. The reactive dyes
which exhibit reactivity even at room temperature are known as cold brand reactive
dyes.

Chemical table

Depth of shade Common salt Soda ash

gpl gpl
Light up to 0.5% 10-20 2.5-5
Medium 0.5 to 2% 20-30 5-10
Dark above 2% 30-60 10

Recipe:

Dye – x
M:L-1:20

Common salt refer table

Soda ash refer table

Duration – 1 hour 20 minutes

After treatment (Soaping)

Detergent- 2 gpl

M:L-1:20

Temp – Boil

Time - 15 minutes

Procedure:

 Take required amount of dye and make smooth paste with little water, add more
hot water.
 Set the dye bath with water and dye solution.
 Enter the pre wetted fabric in to the dye bath
 Raise the temperature
 After 10 min. add half portion of common salt
 After another 10 min. add remaining portion of salt
 Continue dyeing under boiling for 30 min
 Add soda ash continue dyeing under boiling for another 30 min.
 Rinse the fabric in cold water
 Carryout soaping.
 Wash in cold water
 Dry

Calculation:

Fabric weight 8.2 gms

Volume of water 8.2X 20 = 164ml

Dye = 8.4 x 0.5 /100= 0.041 gms

164ml of water contains 0.041gram of dye

164 ml of water contains 0.041 gm dye

X = 164x 0.041/1= 67.24ml

Common salt = 1.64 x 20 = 0.0328gms

1000

But 20 % concentration

100 ml water contains 20 gms of salt

Therefore 164ml of water contains 0.0328gram

X = 164 x 0.0328 = 0.26896ml

20

Soda ash = 8.2x 5 = 0.041gms

1000

But 20 % concentration of soda ash

164 ml of water contains 0.041 gms. Of soda ash

164 ml of water contains0.041 gms. Of soda ash

Therefore x = 164 x 0.041 = 0.3362 ml

20

Water required =

volume of water – ( volume of dye + volume of salt + volume of soda ash)

= 8.2ml – {0.3362+0.041+0.0328}

=8.2-0.41

=7.79ml
Cotton Dyeing with Reactive Dyes (cold Brand)

Dyes derived from the formulation of anthraquinoid and pathalocynane which combine
and react chemically with molecules of fibres. Reactive dyes are water soluble.

 Produce bright colours in brilliant shades

 Absorb rapidly
 Used primarily on cellulosic fibers of cotton, linen and rayon
 May be used on wool, silk, acrylic, nylon and blended fabrics.
 Relatively expensive due to use high cost of dyestuff and lengthier wash cycles.
 Excellent colour fastness to washing, dry cleaning, sun light, crocking, gas
fading, and perspiration.
 Susceptible to chlorine bleach damage.
 Reactive cold brand (Procion-C) brand dye react at room temperature in
presence of sodium carbonate.
Aim: To dye the given cotton fabric with cold brand reactive dyes

Apparatus: weighing balance, heating bath, steel rods, PH paper,.

Chemicals used and their functions:

Glauber Salt: Used as an exhausting agent for reactive dyes

Soda Ash: Used as a dye fixing agent for reactive dye.

Reactive dyes, the most important class of dyes available today, reacts with hydroxyl
group of cellulose (-OH) forming covalent bond. These water soluble dyes give brilliant
shade on cellulosic material with good fastness to washing & rubbing. The reactive dyes
which exhibit reactivity even at room temperature are known as cold brand reactive
dyes.

Chemical table

Depth of shade Common salt Soda ash

gpl gpl
Light up to 0.5% 10-20 2.5-5
Medium 0.5 to 2% 20-30 5-10
Dark above 2% 30-60 10

Recipe:

Dye – x

M:L-1:20

Common salt refer table

Soda ash refer table

Duration – 1 hour 20 minutes

After treatment (Soaping)

Detergent- 2 gpl
M:L-1:20

Temp – Room temperature

Time - 15 minutes

Procedure:

 Take required amount of dye and make smooth paste with little water, add more
hot water.
 Set the dye bath with water and dye solution.
 Enter the pre wetted fabric in to the dye bath
 After 10 min. add half portion of common salt
 After another 10 min. add remaining portion of salt
 Continue dyeing for 30 min
 Add soda ash continue dyeing for another 30 min.
 Rinse the fabric in cold water
 Carryout soaping.
 Wash in cold water
 Dry

Calculation:

Fabric weight 8.2 gms

Volume of water 8.2 X 20 = 164ml

Dye = 8.2x 0.5 = 0.041 gms

100

100 ml of water contains 1 gram of dye

164ml of water contains 0.041 gm dye

X = 164x 0.041 = 6.724 ml

Common salt = 164 x 20 = 3.28gms

1000
But 20 % concentration

100 ml water contains 20 gms of salt

Therefore 164 ml of water contains 3.28gram

X = 164 x 3.28 = 26.896ml

20

Soda ash = 164 x 5 = 0.82 gms

1000

But 20 % concentration of soda ash

1oo ml of water contains 2o gms. Of soda ash

164 ml of water contains0.82 gms. Of soda ash

Therefore x = 164 x 0.82 = 6.724ml

20

Water required =

volume of water – ( volume of dye + volume of salt + volume of soda ash)

= 164ml – {6.724+0.82+3.28}

= 164-10.824

= 1563.176 ml
Dyeing of cotton with vat dyes

Vat Dyes

Dyes derived from the formulation of indigo and anthraquinoid which are attached to the
fibre. Vat dyes are insoluble in water and require an alkaline reduction apply to fibre.

 Vat dyes are insoluble organic compounds and not substantive to cellulose.
 Widely used for cellulose fibers can be used for protein and nylon fibers.
 Produce good color range but limited selection of orange, blue and bright green.
 Large amount of dyes are required for deep shade.
 Excellent fastness to washing.
 Very good fastness to crocking, perspiration, chlorine bleaching, oxidizing and
high temperature treatments.
 Do not bleed during washing.
 Expensive process: High initial cost of dye and method of application

 Derived from the formulation of compounds containing sulfur;

 Water insoluble – applied in exhaust dyeing;

  Water soluble – applied in continuous dyeing;

 Widely used for celluloses;

 Relatively easy way to dye cellulose’s with good-to-excellent washes and light

fastness at a low cost;

Aim: To dye the cotton fabric with vat dyes.

Apparatus: Heating bath, steel rods, thermometer, weighing balance.

Chemicals used and their function:

T R Oil: To make the smooth paste this oil is used.

Caustic soda and Hydrose: For vatting and dyeing process these chemicals are used.
For making solubilizing the dye these are helpful.

Recipe:

M:L=1:20

Vatting: As per the % age of shade equal amount of caustic soda and hydrose is
weighed.

Dyeing:

Caustic soda – 2 gpl

Hydrose – 4 gpl

Temperature - 50®C

Duration – 30 to 45 minutes.

Procedure:
As per the % of shade, the dye is weighed and pasted with little amount of wetting agent
and hot water as required is added. Add to this solution caustic soda and hydrose
respectively which weigh exactly as the amount of dye. Maintain the temperature as
recommended complete vatting process.

In the meantime set blank bath with caustic soda and hydrose as per M:L=1:20 and
raise the temperature as per the recipe and work with the cotton fabric for 5 to 10
minutes.

Take out the fabric from the blank bath and add the vatted dye to the bath. Check the
temperature of the dye bath should be 50® C continue dyeing for 30 to 45 minutes.

After dyeing is complete take out the fabric squeeze give cold wash squeeze and
oxidize in the air.

After air oxidation soap the material in a bath containing 32 gpl soap and 2 gpl soda ash
at 60 to 70® temperature wash and dry.
Dyeing of Sulpur on Cotton

Being nonionic, Sulphur dyes are insoluble in water. Dyeing includes

a few stages, viz. reduction, dyeing, washing, oxidation, soaping

and final washing. The anion is developed on reducing and

solubilizing at boil when it shows affinity for cellulose.

• Derived from the formulation of compounds containing sulfur;

• Water insoluble – applied in exhaust dyeing;

• Water soluble – applied in continuous dyeing;

• Widely used for celluloses;

• Relatively easy way to dye cellulose with good-to-excellent washes and

light fastness at a low cost;

Aim: To dye the cotton fabric with Sulpur dyes.

Apparatus: Heating bath, steel rods, thermometer, weighing balance.

Chemicals used and their function:

T R Oil: To make the smooth paste this oil is used.

sodaash and Sodium sulphide : For vatting and dyeing process these chemicals are
used.

For making solubilizing the dye these are helpful.

Recipe:

M:L=1:20
Reduction

Dyeing:Dyeing of Sulpur on Cotton

Soda ash or Na2Co3 – Double the quantity of dyep

Sodium sulphide Na2s – 4 gpl

Temperature - Boiling

Duration – 30 to 45 minutes.

Procedure:

As per the % of shade, the dye is weighed and pasted with little amount of wetting agent
and

hot water as required is added. Soda ash is added exactly double the amount of dye.

In the meantime set blank bath with Sodium Sulphide as per M:L=1:20 and raise the

temperature as per the recipe and work with the cotton fabric for 5 to 10 minutes.

Take out the fabric from the blank bath and add the reduced dye to the bath. Check the

temperature of the dye bath should be 50® C continue dyeing at boil for 30 to 45
minutes.

After dyeing completes take out the fabric squeeze give cold wash squeeze and oxidize
in the

air.

After air oxidation soap the material in a bath containing 32 gpl soap and 2 gpl soda ash
at 60

to 70® temperature wash and dry.

Calculations

Weight of the material =8.2

M : L = 1 : 20

8.2X 20 = 164ml of water

Soda ash = 2X 0.041

Sodium sulphide = 0.082GPL

= 4 X 164÷ 1000= 0.656