INTERNSHIP REPORT

WETPROCESSING
(1ST JANUARY- 6TH JANUARY 2018)

GROUP MEMBERS:
WASEELA AURANGZEB KHAN, ASIFA SATTAR, AFIFA TUL AIN, SAIMA
BROHI, SYEDA BATOOL ZAHRA.

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 In the name of Allah the most merciful and the most
beneficent.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
First of all, we have the pleasure to express my gratitude to Almighty Allah for
giving us the opportunity to complete my internship program and finally to
prepare this report.
We would like to express our sincere thanks and gratitude to Internship
coordinator and Program Director Assistant Professor Dr. Shamshad Ali of
Textile Department (Mehran University of Engineering And
Technology) for giving us opportunity for internship in such a great company
‘YUNUS TEXTILE MILLS’.
However, it would not have been possible without the kind support and help
of many individuals and the YTM unit-I officials. We would like to extend
sincere thanks to all of them.
We are highly indebted to HR Department Official Sir Zeeshan Ayub and
Wet Processing Department Official Sir Javed Salat for their guidance and
constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information regarding
the pretreatment department & also for their support in completing the
report.
We would like to express our gratitude towards members of YUNUS
TEXTILEMILLS for their kind co-operation and encouragement which help us
in completion of this.
We would like to express our special gratitude and thanks to industry persons
for giving us such attention and time.

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 TABLE OF CONTENT
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT …………………………………………………………………………..2
COMPANY’S INTRODUCTION...……………………………………………………………….4
FLOW CHART OF WET PROCESSING ………………………………………………………7
GREIGH DEPARTMENT …………………………………………………………………………..8
PRETREATMENT ……………………………………………………………………………………9
o SINGE/DESIZING …………………………………………………………………………11
o SCOURING AND BLEACHING………………………………………………………...14
o MERCERIZATION…………………………………………………………………………17
SETTING ………………………………………………………………………………………………21
DYEING ………………………………………………………………………………………………..22
PRINTING ……………………………………………………………………………………………28
PROCESSING LAB …………………………………………………………………………………42
FINISHING ……………………………………………………………………………………………48
CALENDERING ……………………………………………………………………………………..49
SANFORIZING ………………………………………………………………………………………50
FOLDING ……………………………………………………………………………………………...51
INSPECTION …………………………………………………………………………………………51
FAULTS OF FABRIC ………………………………………………………………………………51
GRADING SYSTEMS ………………………………………………………………………………52
FEATURES OF YTM WHICH MAKING IT LEADING COMPANY OF PAKISTAN
………………………………………………………………………………………………………….....53
SUGGESTIONS ………………………………………………………………………………………54
GENERAL EXPERIENCE …………………………………………………………………………55

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 INTRODUCTION
OVERVIEW OF COMPANY
Yunus Brothers was established in 1962 as a yarn and fabric business house.
Yunus Textile Mills started operations in 1998, on the basis of advanced
technical support, strong infrastructure, and quality human resource. Over a
short period of time, we have secured a prominent position as an export
oriented company. The sales volume of our export deliveries exceeds 99.9
percent of entire sales volume
Yunus Textile Mills Limited is a vertically integrated textile mills located in
Karachi, Pakistan. We have an annual production capacity of 10 million
meters per month, which makes us the largest exporter of Home Textile
Products from Pakistan. In addition to manufacturing Yunus Textile Mills also
provides its customers design and distribution services with offices based in
USA and France. At present, Yunus Textile Mills Supplies directly to majority
of private and leading retail brands of USA and Europe.

Yunus Brothers Group consists of a number of industrial establishments other

than YTML which include:
 Lucky Textile Mills.
 Fazal Textile Mills Limited.
 Gadoon Textile Mills Limited.
 Lucky Energy (Private) Limited.
 Lucky Cement Limited.

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 COMPANY’S VISION

“To provide the most compelling value proposition to our customers

in terms of quality, service and cost effectiveness as well as fulfilling
our responsibilities as a responsible corporate citizen”.

COMPANY’S STRENGTHS
o Modern Infrastructure.
o 4 decades of experience in Home Textiles.
o Technical and Production capability to handle Volume Business.
o Financial Strength to hold.
o Raw Material Inventory.
o Safety Stock.
o Constant Expansion and investment in new technology.
o Design and Product Development Support.
o Dedicated Planning Department.

ADVANTAGES TO CUSTOMERS:
 On Time Shipments.
 Shorter Lead Time.
 Warehousing and Inventory Management.

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 QUALITY AND COMPLIANCES

Yunus Textile Mills Limited believes that quality is the backbone of today’s
competitive manufacturing environment. In line with its corporate strategy
YTM has not only implemented a very effective internal quality system, but is
also compliant with various organizations which monitor and approve quality
and compliance systems.
YTM is certified with various compliant observation organizations:
 ISO 9000:2008
 OEKOTEX 100
 SA 8000:2008
 GSV (C-TPAT)
 GOTS
PRODUCTS

 Bed in a Bags Comforters.

 Curtain.
 Draperies.
 Cushions & Dec Pillows
 Quilt Sets.
 Duvet Cover Sets
 Sheet Sets.

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 FLOW CHART OF WET PROCESSING
WOVEN FABRIC

GREY DEPARTMENT

PRETREATMENT

(SINGEINGDESIZINGSOURINGBLEACHINGMERCERIZING)

SETTING

DYEING/PRINTING

FINISHING

FOLDING

STITCHING

PACKING

SHIPPING

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 GRIEGE DEPARTMENT
Griege department is the first department where the wet processing array
start the fabric come here from the weaving and then stitching process, in this
department the required form of package of fabric i.e. batcher is the end
product, the fabric is then ready for the subsequent processes in this form.
This department has 2 major machines;
 BATCHER MACHINE

 OVERLOCKING MACHINE

The fabric comes in than form and has to be wound into a batcher of
thousands of meter of fabric and this task is done by batching machine and
the ends of each than is joint or stitched by overlocking machine.

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 PRE-TREATMENT
Pretreatment is a heart of processing of textile. In Pretreatment, all these
impurities are removed and fabric is brought to a stage where it is more
absorbent and white and can be easily processed further. The process which is
done to make the textile materials suitable for dyeing and printing. Such as
singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching etc.

LAYOUT OF WET PROCESSING

SINGEING

DESIZING

SCOURING

BLEACHING

MERCERIZATION

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 LAYOUT OF MACHINERIES

BATCHING OSTHOFF#1 MERCERIZE

MACHINE
SINGE/DESIZE MACHINE
TECOMA#1

BATCHING OSTHOFF#2
SCOUR SOLOMATIC MERCERIZE
MACHINE SINGE/DESIZE
/BLEACH BLEACH MACHINE
TECOMA#2

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 SINGEING AND DESIZEING
Singeing and desize is the first process in the pretreatment department. Gas
singeing is the most practically used singeing process while for desize
enzymatic desize is used.

SINGE/ DESIZE MACHINE:

DESIZE
SINGEING CHAMBER

MACHINE SPECIFICATION
 Gas singeing machine:
 Name: Osthoff-(Senge-Desize m/c)
 42327 Wuppertal
 Bj-1994
 Model-pk94
 No-6400
 Origin: Germany

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SINGEING:
The verb singe literally means to burn superficially. Technically, singeing
refers to the burning-off of:
 Loose fibers not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric structure;
 Loose yarns not firmly bound into the fabric structure;
 Protruding fiber ends sticking out of the textile yarns and/or fabrics.

Up to 3 singer positions, extreme controlled performance and intensive

singe.

 The basic singer is equipped with 2 Double-Jet burners, to singe both

sides in one pass or one side twice, offering three, two or one singeing
position(s).
 Heating medium, all types of gas or on request with gasified petrol or
kerosene; gasifyer made by Osthoff-senge.
 Proportional gas: air mixing device.
 Flame intensity adjustable in a wide range.
 Flame width steplessly adjustable.
 Distance flame – fabric steplessly adjustable.
 Singeing parameters to be set manually or program controlled.
 Safety installations in accordance with local regulations.
 4-burner singers are available for high-speed processes, i.e. rope
bleaching lines.

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DESIZING:
Desizing is an essential stage of all textile processing, in which ‘size’ is
removed from fabric before completing the pre-treatment process, which is
necessary before dyeing, printing and finishing. Before yarn is woven into
fabric, the ‘Warp’ yarns are coated with sizing agents. This strengthens the
yarn (decreasing breakages on the loom), reduces friction and improves
productivity.
However the sizing agents often resist the dyes and chemicals commonly used
in textile processing, so they have to be thoroughly removed before any wet
processing can take place.
Nowadays, enzymatic desizing – removing starch using enzymes – is by far the
most widely used method and is accepted as standard by the textile
processing industry.

ADVANTAGES OF ENZYMATIC DESIZING:

 No damage to the fiber.
 No use of aggressive chemicals.
 Wide variety of application processes.
 Some optical brighteners can be incorporated in the desizing process.
 High biodegradability.

CHEMICALS USED IN DEZING UNIT:

 Renizyme (desizer)
 Alkapal (wetting agent)
 Alkaqu (sequesting agent)
 CDA (defoamer)
 TSR (lycosol)
 Oxalic acid.

QC OF SINGE/ DESIZE:
 Gas pressure to be checked in singeing: the pressure is mainly
increased for satin fabric
 Degree of desize: tegawa rating is the most modern method to check
desize efficiency if it is lower than 50% then fabric goes for reprocess.

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 SCOURING AND BLEACHING
Continuous scouring and bleaching systems.
OBJECTIVE: After singeing and desizing, scouring and bleaching of the
fabrics is carried out to complete the pre-treatment phase. Scouring
essentially involves boiling of the fabrics in alkali. The object is to remove
impurities such as seed coat fragments, dirt, oils and waxes i.e. all natural and
other impurities added during the processes of spinning, weaving and
handling.
Fabrics made from man-made fibers do not contain impurities. These fabrics
are treated with solutions of detergents at temperatures of 80°C to 90°C for 3
to 4 hours to complete scouring.

MACHINE SPECIFICATION:
Production speed: 50m/min
Compensator j box pressure- 1.8 bar
Compensator pressure: 3.8 bar
Squeezer j box: 2.8 bar squeezer fix: 4.8 bar
Squeezer: 2.8 bar
Temperature: 73.40c

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SCOURING:
For scouring of cotton fabrics, processes of saponification and emulsification
are adopted. Fatty acids are used to esterify hydroxyl groups of glycerol,
followed by treatment of the resulting fat with alkali to form soap which is
water soluble. Thus, the processes not only remove oils, waxes and fats but
also dirt, soil, husk etc. Scouring done by using alkali such as NaoH & Na2Co3.
Natural impurities of cellulosic fabric are normally removed by boiling off in a
strong alkaline solution. The main object of scouring cotton fabrics is to
remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic
character as completely as possible and leave the fabric in a highly absorptive
condition without undergoing chemical or physical damage significantly.

3C17 – COOH + 3NaOH = 3C17H35COONa +3H2O Or

Oil + Caustic = Soap + Glycerine

In the scouring process the cotton cellulose material is treated with a solution
containing alkali (soda ash and caustic soda), an anionic and/or nonionic
detergent, a wetting agent, a complexing and sequestering for the removal of
metal ions and polyacrylates or polyphosphonates as special surfactant free
dispersing agents, at high temperature.

BLEACHING:
Fabrics are bleached after scouring to remove any coloring matter
and render the fabrics white. For bleaching cotton fabrics are passed through
a liquor containing 2 to 4 gms/l of hydrogen peroxide at a temperature of
90°C to 100°C. The reaction time is 2 to 3 hours. After bleaching the
purification is complete and the fabrics are ready for further processing. For
adding special chemical and physical properties, cotton fabrics may also be
mercerized. The process involves impregnation of the fabrics with 18 to 30%
solution of NaoH at temperatures of 13°C to 15°C while held under tension at
full width.
Bleaching means destroying the natural color of the cotton fiber by using
oxidative (H2O2 or other peroxides or oxidative Cl- chemicals) or reductive
chemistry followed by a wash of and a neutralization.
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Following properties are added to the fabrics by the process of mercerisation.
 Fabrics become chemically more reactive and absorbent.
 Acceptability of the dyes by the fabrics increases.
 Fabrics are made lustrous and stronger.

CHEMICAL USED IN SCOUR/ BLEACH:

 Caustic soda
 RGN
 Alkaquest KEB (scouring agent)
 Hydrogen peroxide
 Flosparse DT (oil partical removal)
 Alkabright(leco)
 Alkaqugel (stabilizer)
 Biocid ECO acid.

QC OF SCOUR/BLEACH MACHINE:

 Absorbency test by Turquoise K2BL2%: To test the absorbencies of

different fabrics, I took 10cm (4″) square pieces of the (prewashed)
fabric’s pickup check after bleach. if polyester it is 38-40 while for PC->
30-35
 If no capillary: If this case occurs the RGN, alkagel parameters are
checked.
 If whiteness low: Then bleaching agents are checked.

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 MERCERIZATION
Mercerization is a process in which textiles (typically cotton) are treated with
a caustic (NaOH) solution to improve properties such as fiber strength,
shrinkage resistance, luster, and dye affinity. The caustic actually rearranges
the cellulose molecules in the fiber to produce these changes. Higher-end
fabrics may be double or triple mercerized for added benefits.
Effective Mercerization requires attention to variables such as caustic
strength, dwell time (feed rate), temperature, and neutralization. The feed
rate of the fabric may also be limited by its strength and weight and is usually
run at 80 to 120 yards (73 to 110 m) per minute.

CONTINUOUS MERCERIZATION
MACHINE: (Goller 2004)

MACHINE SPECIFICATION:
Goller mercerizing machine
Year: 1989 (2004 change automation)
6 chambers
Working width: 220 cm.
Consists the features of:
 Counter current flow,
 Dipping washing,
 Low energy consumption and
 Power spray.

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PROCESS OCCURING IN MERCERIZATION
MACHINE:
To get the desired luster and tensile strength, cotton is held under specified
tension for about ten minutes with an application of between 21%-23%
caustic soda (NaOH) and wetting agents (used to facilitate the transfer of the
NaOH into the fibers), at room temperature. Then the fabric is neutralized in
an acid bath.
The fabric is passed through a number of guide and Bow rolls. After that the
material is dipped in to the main section, which is a strong lye containing
chamber. The number of chambers in mercerizing machine is different and
depends upon the manufacturer of the machine. In this chamber the material
is continuously treated with caustic soda of about 26-30°Be at 60°c. The lye is
showered in zigzag manner the fabric is rolled over a number of padder. Load
cell are used to maintain tension to the coming fabric. After strong lye the
fabric is passed through weak lye chamber. The temperature is increased up
to 85°c and caustic concentration is decreased up to 7-8°Be.
Then after washing drying of fabric occurs through the setup of vertically
placed drying cylinder and fabric is then batched.

CHEMICAL PROCESS:

Under the action of concentrated alkaline solutions chemical, physico-

chemical and structural modifications of cellulose take place. Native cellulose
(Cellulose I) forms alkali cellulose I with concentrated sodium hydroxide. On
washing and neutralization cellulose II is formed.

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CHEMICALS OF MERCERIZATION:
 Caustic soda (lye)
 Biocid ECO
 Weak lye: 7-8Be (practically 5 Be)
 Strong lye.
Fabric going for dyeing 38 Be
Fabric going for print 26 Be
White fabric 22Be

Mercerization Leads To A Number Of Changes In Fibre And

Fabric Properties:

• More circular fiber cross-section.

• Increased luster.
• Increased tensile strength, a major factor for technical textile fabrics.
• Increased apparent color depth after dyeing.
• Improved dyeability of immature cotton (greater uniformity of appearance).
• Increase in fibre moisture regain.
• Increase in water sorption.
• Improved dimensional stability.

QC OF MERCERIZATION:
 Baume meter/ twaddle: Checking the Baume or twaddle degree of
strong lye chamber.
 Determination of degree of mercerization: By barium number
activity (BAN)
 Time: The dwell time is also checked and vary for lots of different
quality.
 Temperature: It is an important parameter as at temperature 18-20 °C
high degree of lusture is attainted.
 Tension: If tension is less or the fabric is allowed to shrink then the
luster is impaired.

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 SETTING
As because of continuous process of the fabric the fabric lose its required
dimensions lengthwise and widthwise. Setting occurs in stenter machine.

STENTER MACHINE(MONFORT
MORTEX):
A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of
the stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine
dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing
chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. The main function of the
stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform width.

There are 9 stenter machines in YTM, and in these 7 are used for finishing and
set for mercerize/ print and dye. The FBO is also being used in the trough of
stenter machine for subsequent processes after bleaching.

Working Procedure of Stenter Machine

open-width fabric entry → spreading → infrared
centering→ padder→ weft straightener → overfeed →
uncurling → infrared detect→ pinning → stentering → air
cooling → depinning → fabric exit→ plaiting/winding Page | 20
FUNCTIONS OF STENTER MACHINE:
1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for Lycra fabric, synthetic and
blended fabric.
2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.
4. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
5. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
6. Spirility controlled by the stenter.
7. GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.
8. Fabric is dried by the stentering process.
9. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
10.Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.

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 DYEING PROCESS
Dyeing is the process to apply color on fabric.

TYPE OF DYES USED IN YTM:

 Disperse Dyes (these dyes are used for polyester).
 Reactive Dyes.
 VAT Dyes. (These dyes are used for PC, CVC and Cotton).
 Pigments.

MACHINES USED FOR DYEING:

1. Thermosol.
2. Pad Steam.
There are two Thermosol machines in Yunus Textile Mills.
 One machine has 5 chambers (3 drying chambers and 2 curing
chambers).
 And other has 4 chambers (2 drying chambers and 2 curing chambers).

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 FLOW PROCESS CHART OF
THERMOSOL MACHINE
Fabric Inlet

J-box

Padder Dip

IR (Drying)

Drying Chambers

Curing Chambers

Fabric Outlet

PAD STEAM:
There is one pad steam machine in Yunus Textile Mills. It is used to perform
many processes such as:
 Dyeing.
 Chemical padding.
 RC (reducing cleaning).
 Washing (in which fabric is washed with hot water).

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THE FLOW PROCESS CHART OF PAD
STEAM
Batcher

Fabric inlet

Pad Dip Set

Steamer

Washing
Chambers

Cane Dryer

Batcher

(PAD STEAM)

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MACHINES SPECIFICATION:
 Thermosol-I Code: 30039
 Thermosol-II Code: 30040
 Origin: Germany.
 Made by: MonfortsThermex.
 Pad Steam Code: 30038
 Made by: Goller.

DYEING PROCESSES:
There are two processes are done in YTM.
 One Bath Process. (Reactive Pad-Dry)

 Padding (Pad Thermosol)

 Drying (Pad Thermosol)
 Fixation (Pad Steam)
 Washing (Pad Steam)
 Drying (Cane Dryer)

 𝐓𝐰𝐨 𝐁𝐚𝐭𝐡 𝐏𝐫𝐨𝐜𝐞𝐬𝐬. (𝐏𝐂 𝐁𝐥𝐞𝐧𝐝)

 Disperse Dyeing Padding (Pad Thermosol)

 Drying (Pad Thermosol)
 Curing (Pad Thermosol)
 Reduction Cleaning (Pad Steam)
 Reactive Dyeing Padding (Pad Thermosol)
 Fixation (Pad Steam)
 Drying (Cane Dryer)

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PROCESS SPECIFICATIONS:
 IR drying temperature: 800°F.
 Curing temperature for disperse dyeing: 190°C.
 Curing temperature for reactive dyeing: 160°C.
 Curing temperature for pigment dyeing: 160°C.
 Washing chamber temperature: 95°C-100°C.

OTHER MACHINES FOR SHORT LOTS:

 JIGGER DYEING MACHINE:
There are eight jigger machines in YTM in which four are used for
dyeing process and other four are used for pretreatment processes for
short lots.
In this machine there are two main rollers, the fabric moves from one
roll to another roll through dyeing liquor trough.

 JET DYEING MACHINE:

There are three jet dyeing machines in YTM, which are used for dyeing of
short lots.

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  STENTER:
There are nine stenters in YTM in which one stenter (Stenter 3) is used for
dyeing process. There are 7 chambers of this machine for drying and curing.
Other stenters are used for finishing and setting purpose.

AUXILARIES USED FOR DYEING:

 Refine salt (to boost up the process).
 Caustic liquid.
(For fixation of reactive dyes)
 Soda Ash.
 Anti-migrating agents.
 Wetting agents.
 Dispersing agents.
 Binders (For fixation of pigments).

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 PRINTING

LAYOUT OF PRINTING
PRE-PROCESSES

CAD/CAM

ENGRAVING

COLOR KITCHEN

PRINTING
POST-PROCESSE

CURING

FINISHING

FOLDING

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PRINTING PREPARATION:
Before printing the three pre-processes are carried out:
 CAD/CAM
 ENGRAVING
 COLOR KITCHEN

CAD/CAM:
CAD/CAM is a department where the sample of a fabric given by the customer
is scan on computer to set that design for the printing process.
The software RAMSETE III version 9.05-1994-2006 is used in YTM and
sample is set by the designers in CAD/CAM.
The main work of this department is to set the gaps between the designs as
they will not show on fabric after printing. It this type of mistake is occurs
then that fabric will be rejected by the customer
In YTM the four standard screens are used (64cm, 81.9cm, 91.4cm, &101cm).
Its function is to repeat of a design, screen size and mesh count.

ENGRAVING:

ENDING WASHING

CURE COATING

DEVELOP EXPOSING

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  Engraving department contains:

 WASHING/ STRIPPING:
In engraving department the washing is done when we need to take new
designs on the screen so first we wash it to remove the design for the new one.
In stripping process the chemical cleaning is processed for the reuse of the
screens.

 COATING:
The material used for the screens is nickel 100%. Coated plates contain a
number like (SCR100, SCR61, SCR64).the screens is coated with SCR64 or
SCR61.screen is coated at high temperature over 180-200°C for 15to30 min
and then left it about 10-30 min for dry.

MACHINE: Coater
COMPANY: SPG PRINTS

 EXPOSING:
The two types of machines in YTM which a used for the exposing on the
screens. Because YTM has two types of screens soft and hard.

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  STORK STK:
This machine is used for hard screen. The laser is used in this exposing
machine. The hard screen is treated with the temperature of 200°C for 2
hours.
 SMARTEX 7043:
This machine is used for soft screen. This soft screen is heated at 45°C and
then it exposed. This exposing is known as light exposing.

 DEVELOP:
After being heated these screens were exposed by exposing machine the
machine develop the pattern or design and then it will sent for the curing.

 CURE:
In curing area the screen is cured at 180°C the curing is occurred only that
area where the SCR coating is present where the remaining area will not cure.

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  ENDING:
After all these processes now finally the screen is checked by the electric gun
of 2000 bar. And on the last the tapes are applied on the both end of the
screen and then sent to printing department.

COLOR KITCHEN:
In color kitchen, all types of dyes are preparing like reactive, disperse and
pigment.
The pigment dyes are in diluted form whereas the reactive and disperse dyes
are in powder form.

In color kitchen the 1st step is to make gum. There are 6 tanks are available
where the gum will be stored after making.

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For pigment dyes the gum which is use that contain a different recipe and for
reactive and disperse dye the gum recipe is different.
The difference in both dyes gum is the chemicals which are used for preparing
the gum.

FOR DISPERSE DYES FOR REACTIVE DYES

 WATER
 MONO SODIUM
 WATER
 NEO
 SODIUM WHITE R
 THICKENER 250
 PRINT TAX RE5
 PNR
 REVERTOL X
 PLP
 ANTIFOAM
 MEGO TAX

FOR PIGMENT DYE

 WATER
 BINDER
 UREA
 THICKENER 60
 ANTIFOAM
 LIQUOR AMMONIA

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The machine used for pigment color matching is FIMAT .when the pigment is
added into gum then this gum tank is further sent for mixing. The average
production is 100-120 drums/day. And one drum is of 100kg

For reactive and disperse dye the mixing of dye into gum is manually done.

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PRINTING MACHINES:
Printing is a process for reproducing text and images using a master form of
template.
In YTM there are 5 printing machines of three different types. One is flat
bed, three are rotary and also have one digital machine.

DIGITAL PRINTING MACHINE

DURST
ALPHA 330
64 HEADS

FLATBED PRINTING MACHINE

REGGIANI
10-12
SCREENS

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ROTARY PRINTING MACHINE

REGGIANI

1. CODE:30044
2. CODE:30045
3. CODE:30046

DIGITAL PRINTING MACHINE:

Before doing digital printing the fabric send to gum padding. After gum
padding the digital printing is start to process.
Only the digital printing requires gum padding.
In digital machine 64 heads are present. Each color contains 8 rows.
Machine contains a washer and 2 dryer one for drying the fabric and one for
drying the black bed after its washing.
The fabric passed from:

ROLLER TO HEADS
BATCHER DRYER BATCHER
GUIDE &BLANKET

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 FAULT:
 The main fault in digital printing machine is head chock.

ROTARY PRINTING MACHINE:

In rotary printing machine screens are used. These screens are placed on
heads of the machine. Each color of the design contains single screen which is
obtained from the engraving department. The screens contain dark color print
is placed first then light colors are place.
The fabric passed from:

BATCHER SUCTION GLUE HEATER BLANKET

DEVICE DEVICE PLATE

CURING:
Curing is a process of fixation of a color onto fabric.
After printing, the print color is not fixed on the fabric so curing is carried out.
This process is needed for pigment dyes. We need to stay the fabric into the
machine or just 5 minutes.
NAME: STEAM AGER
CODE#30048
TEMPERATURE: 150-155C

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POST PROCESSES:

FOR REACTIVE PRINTING

(100% COTTON)

FOLDING
STEAMING (AROLI+SALVADE)

WASHING (KUSTER)

TESTING (LAB TESTING)

FINISHING (STENTOR 4, 9)

CALENDER +
SANFORIZE

TESTING (LAB TESTING)

FOLDING

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FOR PIGMENT PRINTING
(CC, PC, CVC)

CURING (AROLI + SITARA)

FINISHING (STENTOR 4, 9)

CALENDER +
SANFORIZE

TESTING
(LAB TESTING)

FOLDING

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FOR DISPERSE PRINTING
(100% POLYESTER)

(AROLI)
HIGH TEMPERATURE

WASHING
(RC KUSTER)

TESTING
(LAB TESTING)

FINISHIG

TESTING (LAB TESTING)

FOLDING

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PRINTING FAULTS:
 Design Out.
 Flashing.
 Touching.
 Screen Dent.
 Overlapping.
 Blanket.
 Copy.

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 WET PROCESSING LAB
Wet processing lab plays a vital role in the quality control of wet processing
department. YTM wet processing lab is divided into mainly three portions.

WET PROCESSING LAB

PHYSICAL R &D COLOR MATCHING

RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

DEPARTMENT (R&D):
The main objective of R&D department is to check all the incoming and
running chemicals used in the industry also different kinds of tests are
performed in this section. The task of R&D section start from fabrication and
ends at final inspection of finished fabric and new chemicals are developed
which are less costly and produce less environment hazards. Since YTM plays
special attention to environment and pollution, therefore this department
plays an important and special role in YTM.
WORK FLOW CHART OF R&D SECTION
Sampling order receive from Merchandisers
Analysis of sample
Selection of yarn
Knitting Parameters setting
Finishing Parameters (sample + Production)
Check and testing of the sample
Approved the sample

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DIFFERENT KINDS OF TEST HELD IN
R&D SECTION:
FORMALDEHYDE TEST:
Water Bath oscillatory Machine SHZ-82 A is used for formaldehyde testing.
After curing, finishing and sanforizing sample will be taken for formaldehyde
test. In binder, fixer and resin formaldehyde is present so to check the
contents of formaldehyde in cotton, and PC fabric during different stages
formaldehyde test will be done. Indicator used for formaldehyde testing is
Nesh Reagent which is composed of Acetyl Acetone, Acetic Acid and
Ammonium Acetate. Formaldehyde is dangerous for our skin therefore
formaldehyde test is necessary.
PH TEST:
PH is a measure of acidic or alkaline condition of water. To start the test take
250ml distilled H2O in conical flask and boil it. Add 4gm strips of sample fabric
in conical flask for 10 minutes and then cool down it at room temperature.
When temperature falls to 24-25ᵒC then check the PH of the fabric sample.

COLOR MATCHING SECTION:

The main objective of color matching section is to predict the color of a
sample. In lab dip section it is necessary to match the shade of the sample.
CMS (Color Matching Section) it easy to match the shade quickly. Yellow, Blue
and Red are primary colors whereas olive black and brown are compound
colors. These colors are used to make further color combination makes in
Grey Scale. PANTONE TC is the color matching book for polyester through
which we can match our desired shade.
Pigment dyes are adhesive dyes. They make layers on fabric surface with the
help of binders. They don’t have direct contact with fibers. These dyes are
used for all fibers. Dyes recipe will prepare in g/l.
Disperse dyes make dark shades even on outline.

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 PROCESSES OF REACTIVE DYE FOR COTTON:
 Pad Dry Cure (PDC)
 Pad Dry and chemical Pad Steam (CPS)
 Wet on wet.

Wet dyes are expensive dyes.

PROCESS OF DISPERSE DYE FOR POLYESTER:
 Pad dry cure method for 100% polyester.
DARK ROOM:
Dark room is an essential room used for the assessment of color. In the dark
room dyed are checked to see if they meet customer demand.
LIGHT BOX AREA:
It is used for finding out deviation of shed between the batch and reference.
Here a dyed sample is checked in the specific light recommended by buyer.
Following are the light sources used in YTM in dark room:
 PL 84
 D 65
 CWF
 Ultra Violet (UV)
 Fluorescent
 D 65 light source is required more by customer.
 European customer demands yellow light.

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DATA COLOR SOFTWARE:
Data color software used to check the whiteness of fabric. First of all
collaboration is done and error is adjusted. Divide the recipe of g/l by 4.

METAMERISM:
Metamerism is the property of dyes behavior according to light. Two different
shades match on one light but these same shades show different on other light
due to dyes on fabric.

PHYSICAL TESTING:
In this portion test methods are performed according to customer
requirement.
LIGHT FASTNESS MACHINE:
Light fastness machine of XENOTESTAPHALM Company is used to determine
the color fastness of textiles against sunlight in YTM.

SHRINKAGE APPEARANCE MACHINE:

ISO European recommended machine. Sample is washed in its washing
machine and dried. Then its size is checked and change in size is noted. Both
warp and weft shrinkage is tested.
WASHER:
AATCC washer used for washing any sample.

AATCC DRYER:
AATCC dryer is used for drying samples.
Whirl pool front load recommended by European customer.
Whirl pool top load recommended by US customer.
Accudry recommended by European customer.

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LAUNDER-O-METER:
Launder-o-Meter used for assessing color fastness to non-chlorine bleach.

ELMA TEAR MACHINE:

Elma tear PRL/81 machine is used to check the strength of fabric. It checks the
strength of fabric from yarn to yarn. Test results are displayed digitally no
calculations are required.

TENSILE TEAR MACHINE:

Titan PRL/84 is used to check the tensile of fabric. In gram force tear force
will be measured.
PERSPIRATION TEST:
PRL/07 incubator PF-60 use to check the perspiration. Perspiration test is
performed for both acidic and alkaline medium. After perspiration test stains
on the fabric is matched with the grey scale.
CROCK METER:
Crock meter is used for testing the rubbing fastness of sample. The sample is
clipped in the sample stand and a staining fabric is clipped in the nose. Then
the nose is rubbed against the sample for 10 times. At first rubbing is done in

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wet condition, and then again rubbing is done in dry condition with another
piece of staining fabric. Then the staining fabrics are assessed with standards
and grade is assigned to the sample.

PILLING MACHINE:
Random Tumble Pilling Tester PRL/52.
Martinadole is used to determine the pilling and fuzzing characteristics of
textile fabrics.
SPECTROPHOTOMETER:
Spectrophotometry involves the use of a spectrophotometer. A
spectrophotometer is a photometer (a device for measuring light intensity)
that can measure intensity as a function of the color, or more specifically, the
wavelength of light. CIE whiteness test, Burger whiteness test can also be
checked by this instrument and also this instrument give us the composition
of shade.

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 FINISHING
Finishing is the last step of wet processing. The making of marketable and
consumer useable textile is not completed after fabric products dyeing or
printing operation fabric usually still need to undergo additional steps known
as finishing. A textile products either it is printed or dyed it is necessary to add
some finishing materials on finishers before marketing. By applying different
finishing techniques a textile material becomes more comfortable to use so
finishing should be easier to apply.
Finishing of textile material is depend on the requirements of the buyer.
Finishing process give the textile material certain desirable properties like;
 Softness
 Lusture
 Better hand feel
 Dimensional stability

FINISHING

MECHANICAL FINISH CHEMICAL FINISH

SANFORIZING CALENDERING
STENTER MACHINE
BY ADDITION OF
SOFTNERS

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STENTER MACHINE:
In YTM, there are nine stenter machines are used. Stenter machine is used for
setting of fabric, for finishing, to control the width of fabric and to control the
shrinkage property of fabric. For stenter machine fabric is used in open form.
For finishing of fabric, in stenter fabric is coming from batcher is passes
through padders immerse in chemical solution containing softeners and then
passing through bow and skew rollers to control the bow and skew of the
fabric after that fabric enters into Mahlo. In Mahlo the fabric is griped by clips
and pins at the selvedge and these are attached to endless moving chain. The
main function of Mahlo is maintains the dimensional stability of fabric. The
stenter machine contains burners in which they contains a burner and filters
to remove dust particles. The circulating fan blow hot air around the fabric.
Temperature set according to the fabric as for;
 Cotton : 180C
 PC : 200-220C

CALENDERING:
Calendering is a mechanical finishing process in which fabric is passing
between the one or more pair of rollers at high temperature and pressure.
The process is done after the chemical finishing as buyers requirements.

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OBJECTIVES:
 To increase the shininess of fabric.
 To increase lusture of fabric.
 To give better hand feel to fabric.
 To compress fabric and reduce thickness of fabric.

In YTM, There are two calendaring machines used.

1. CALANDER-I CODE#30059
2. CALANDER-II CODE#30060

Speed of machine: 100m/min

Temperature: 90C

SANFORIZING:
Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing which prevent the dimensional
alternation of warp and weft yarn. The fabric is treated with water or steam
to promote shrinkage. For more shrinkage we increase temperature and
pressure. It done on customers demand.

OBJECTIVES:
 To shrink the fabric.
 To give better hand feel.
In YTM, only one sanforizing
machine used.
SANFORIZING CODE# 30061

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 FOLDING
There are two objectives of folding;
1. To fold a fabric.
2. To inspect the faults of fabric.
In folding department, the fabric fold in roll form, double folded form and
thaan form it depends on requirement. Rolling sheet is used on which job
number, quality, construction, design, length and width of fabric.

INSPECTION
On inspection machine the inspection of fabric takes place. For inspection
100m of fabric is inspected. For inspection fabric coming from weaving,
dyeing, printing and finishing department on which number of faults inspect
for subsequent processes. For shade and color matching Worker takes strips
of fabric from rolling fabric before and after the rolling of fabric then compare
them and faults inspected and grading is done. For inspection and grading 4
point system is use. In YTM 4 point system and bar code system use.

FAULTS OF FABRIC:

1. WEAVING FAULTS:
Color fly, sluff, oil spots, fold mark, polyester line, double pick, miss pick,
hanging thread, hole, float, weaving line and weaving joint.

2. DYEING FAULTS:
Color fraction, dyeing crease, dyeing drops, dyeing streaks and white spots.

3. PRINTING FAULTS:
Design out, flashing, overlapping, copy touching and screen out.

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 4. FINISHING:
Bowing, skewing, center cut, carbon particles, clips, harsh hand feel,
distortion, selvedge cut, shade out, short width, silicon spots, chemical spots,
solvent mark, tensile of fabric and moisture of fabric.

GRADING SYSTEM:
YTM grading system is;
GRADE : LENGTH OF FABRIC : FAULTS
A 100m 3.3
A1 100m 5
A2 100m more than 6
B 100m full of faults

4 POINT SYSTEM:
LENGTH OF DEFECT FABRIC : POINT ALLOTTED
(LENGTH OR WIDTH)
 Up to 3inches : 1
 Over 3incher up to 6inches : 2
 Over 6inches up to 9 inches : 3
 Over 9inches : 4

FOR HOLES AND OPENING:

 1inch or less : 2
 Over 1inch : 4

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FEATURES OF YTM MAKING IT A
LEADING COMPANY OF PAKISTAN

 100% INSPECTION OF FABRIC: One of the major part that assures the
customers of the high quality and well processed fabric is the 100
inspection of the fabric that is only done in YTM throughout the country.

 99% WATER PURIFICATION: The water that is going in waste is

recovered upto 99%, this not only is the profit for company but also a
environmental friendly step.

 ELECTRICITY GENERATION: Electricity is self-generated within the

industry, thus YTM is independent of the energy crisis occurring in the
country.

 CAUSTIC RECOVERY PLANT: The caustic used in mercerization is

recovered to 5 degree Baume for weak lye section.

 DYEING IN STENTER MACHINE: Usually stenter machine is used for

setting and finishing but in YTM the stenter machine is used for pigment
dyeing it is not only a profitable step but it also shows the efficiency of
the officials working.

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 SUGGESTIONS

 The batchers should be given a proper floor and shed as the batchers
that are to be exported is there on the floor and the exposure of sunlight
can have negative impact on the fabric.

 Workers should be instructed of the precautions and should be if

possible, forced to wear measures like mask and gloves in the shed.

 They should be given things like banana and milk as they are constantly
being exposed to cotton flies.

 The ducts on the floor of pretreatment sheds are open they should be
covered.

 The water filters should be available in different areas for drinking

water.

 The proper air-conditioning (good moisture and breathable

environment) facility should be provided in the shed.

 The daily and monthly maintenance team should be separated so that

they can have specialization in their work.

 The water that is standing in front of HR department at parking area of

bikes is an issue to the person crossing the area and can also cause
health issues.

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  The chemicals and water that are leaking from the sides of machines in
pretreatment should be treated properly for cleanliness purpose of the
department.

GENERAL EXPERIENCE IN YTM:

The overall experience of YTM, the environment and the working staff was
very good and is praiseworthy. Thanks to HR department official Sir Zeeshan
Ayub, and processing dept official Sir Javed Salat. Also special thanks to Sir
Faizan who guided us very well in our visit to every department, as without
them this internship would not have been such a great experience.
We are very grateful.

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