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590

GARMENT MAKING

A BOOK ORR FIERENCES

AND INSTRUCTION
 University of Michigan- Flint Library

4 9015 00145 2102

12

University of

Michiman
Llibra
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1817
MINI COLL * WO
 W rauau 24 /1

GARMENT MAKING

A TREATISE ,
EMBRACING THE WHOLE SUBJECT OF

SFRACTICAL TAILORINGS
GIVING SPECIAL AND DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
UPON THE

Makingof every Modern Garmentmadeby Tailors.

A BOOK OF REFERENCE
EQUALLY ADAPTED FOR THE

CUTTING ROOM OR WORKSHOP.

EDITED BY J. WILLIAMSON ,
WITH INTRODUCTION BY THE EDITOR .

num

LONDON :
PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY JOHN WILLIAMSON, AT THE
TAILOR AND CUTTER OFFICE , 93 & 44, DRURY LANE , W .C .
 LONDON
PRINTED BY JOHN WILLIAMSON, “ THE TAILOR AND CUTTER"
OFFICE, 93,DRURYLANE, w.c .
 PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

T is with some little feeling of pride and pleasure that we find ourselves
called upon so soon to write the Preface to a Second Edition of this
work . Such a work had long formed one of the many projects we
have had in connection with our business, believing as we do that such a guide is
greatly required — for though there is quite as much first class tailoring done
now as there ever has been, there is infinitely more of an inferior class of work
done, and as apprentices are somewhat rare in first class firms, the natural ten
dency under these circumstances is, that the operative part of the tailoring
profession should degenerate , which very many employers are convinced is the
case. And as time goes, there seems a growing disposition to skimp work even
in respectable shops, so that it not unfrequently becomes a disputed point as to
which is really the way to put certain parts of a garment together. A work
therefore on Garment Making detailing every particular as to how garments are
made in first class London firms— shewing the most approved methods by which
elegance and style can be imparted to a garment, has become a necessity , if we
are to preserve generally — even in respectable trades, a high class or standard
of work .
Such a work as this — so exhaustive in every detail connected with every
garment made by tailors, is necessarily the fruit of great labour, care and pains ;
a very slight acquaintance with the work and its illustrations, will prove this to
be the case. The conception of the work being entirely our own, we have held
ourselves directly responsible for its entire get up and arrangement, employing
such agencies in working out the details as we thought were best likely to effect
our purpose. Our viewsas to the necessity and importance of thiswork we have
embodied in the introduction. Every possible source of securing reliable informa
tion has been embraced and made available towards constituting the work a
standard authority , to which every class of the tailoring profession may resort
with confidence ; and such we have every reason to believe, from many assurances,
both at home and abroad, the book has already become.
An attempt is being made while this Second Edition is issuing from the press,
to make capital out of this work by associating its authorship with the name of
one of our late assistants. Although we have hitherto employed no formalmeans
of correcting this unwarrantable presumption, feeling as we do , that he who at
present makes the statement on trust,may possibly soon enough fail to see the
evidence of such talent sustained in the source from whence he is led to believe
it has emanated ; now however that such a statement has been put forth ,we can
not allow another Edition to appear without stating, that the claim put forth is
unwarranted by the facts . The work is solely and purely the conception
of its Editor, as to its existence, form and arrangement. It is quite true that the
person who has allowed another to put his name forth, assisted in its get up, and
may possibly have written the greater part of several of its sections, but it was
only in the capacity of an assistant, following the instructions embodied in the
plan of the Editor, and every portion of which had either to be re-written , or
made fit to go into the printer's hands. But for the fact of a new Edition , this
statement to which we have referred, would have been treated with the same
contempt as we treat many others from the samequarter ; but not to have put
the matter right here,was to give credence to an assumption, wholly unwarranted
in the form it is put forth .

THE EDITOR .
 INTRODUCTION

mananaman

HILE we think it very probable that there is no work on the Science of

“ Garment Cutting," of any standing , published in this or any other
country during the last fifty years, with which we are not more or less
acquainted, no work exclusively devoted to “ Garment Making " has ever crossed
our path , and some may be disposed to ask - What purpose do you propose to serve
by a work on the subject ? To this we would reply , that the tailoring trade at the
present time stands in need of nothing more than a work on GarmentMaking, for
the following reasons : — The great variety of garments worn has practically divided
thetrade into many branches, each demanding a special knowledge on the part of
those engaged. It is only in the smallest trades in towns and villages that
workmen are expected to take a stitch at anything that comes in their way ;
while in the shops of respectable trades employing from six to eight men and
upwards, some are set apart exclusively for Coat making, others for Trousers
making , and others for Vest making ; while in large shops Coat makers are
further classified, by the garment being made in thirds. Besides this general
classification, there are special men in all the principal shops who only make
Naval and Military garments, Ladies' Riding Habits, Clerical and other Robes,
& c. ; and considerable difficulty - as our daily correspondence testifies — is not
unfrequently experienced, when these and such like garments come in the way of
firmswhere they are not generally made. This,we think, forms one reason why
a reliable and authoritative work on Garment Making is required, which will
give detailed instructions on every branch of the trade, making it possible for a
workman acquainted with one branch , to easily qualify himself with its assistance
to work at another.
Another and more important reason why a reliable work on Garment Making
is desirable , will be found in the fact, that many of the rising generation of
masters and foremen have either a very imperfect knowledge, or no knowledge
at all, of practical tailoring . To learn cutting, and to be a good cutter, seems to
be the grand idea now -a -days, while a thorough knowledge of tailoring in all its
branches, is being considered a secondary matter ; but it is a grand mistake ! There
may be — and we have known one or two exceptions, but the rule is, that a good
successful cutter, is invariably a good practical tailor. One occupying therespon
 INTRODUCTION .

sible position of turning out garments, not only excellent in fit, but in style and
finish , must not only be able to cut the garment, but also know exactly how it
should be put together and manipulated. Successful cutters are invariably men
who have succeeded in training their workmen to carry out their ideas in the
putting together and manipulating their garments ; nor is success, worthy the
name, possible in any other way. Our own opinion is, that masters and foremen ,
in many cases, are asmuch at fault in connection with the turning out of inferior
workmanship as the men they blame. A good foreman will have good workmen
if it is possible for them to be had, and if they are not to be had, he will make it
his business to school into it such as he has. Under any circumstances, some
degree of training is necessary before workmen will be found embodying in a
garment the ideas of a foreman who knows his position . But how shall employ
ers or foremen do this who have but an imperfect knowledge of how a first-class
garment should be put together, and scarcely know when a job is properly finished ?
Even first -class workmen require to be in the hands of foremen who have a tho
rough practical knowledge of their profession .
Many young men , fired with a noble and commendable ambition have resolved
that some day they will take their stand among distinguished cutters, and so all
their thoughts are full of systems and ideas on cutting ; every shilling they can
save is set aside for works and implements connected with the art, and every
spare hour is spent in practising and trying to master what have been recom
mended to them as the best systems; but all this is a mistake. The one object
of a young man ought to be — so far as his profession is concerned , if he intendsto
be a successful cutter - both during his apprenticeship and for two or three years
afterwards, to acquire a thorough practical knowledge of tailoring in all its
branches. Cutting might be resorted to during this period as a recreation and
amusement ; but let no one think seriously of mastering the science and prin
ciples of cutting till he has first gone through those indispensable preliminaries
of acquiring the art of tailoring. Few are in a better position than ourselves for
bearing testimony to the truth of these statements. How common is it for young
men to think they have simply to save five or ten pounds, and come up to the
Cutting Rooms of The TAILOR AND Cutter Office, in order to change their
social position , and begin a career of foremanship , which they hope will some
day lead to their having a business of their own ; but they occasionally discover
they have made a mistake. Young men possessing but an ordinary knowledge
of the making of one garment, having never worked in good shops, who come to
our office for an opinion as to the probabilities of their success as cutters, we
hesitate not in telling them that their chance is small indeed. Ourmost succesful
students are those who have worked in first-class shops in London, or elsewhere,
having a thorough practical knowledge of their trade, with a good notion of how
a garment ought to look when finished. They easily acquire the Art of Cutting,
 INTRODUCTION . vii

and we have no difficulty in getting them a situation . But the question - arising
frequently out of the circumstances in which young men find themselves placed
might be asked, How shall we acquire a general and authentic knowledge of the
many garments that are made ? It is to meet this long felt want that we have
set ourselves to prepare , from themost reliable sources, a work embracing the
whole subject of Practical Tailoring.
A last, and certainly not the least, impressive reason which has impelled us
to undertake the preparation of the present work, is one which will meet with a
ready response by every reader — it is the simple fact, that the tailor trade has
for some years past been sadly deteriorating. This may result from many causes.
One may be the laxity that exists in regard to binding apprentices ; it, undoubt
edly, results in large part from the deficiency of the instruction given to youths
learning the trade, and from the not uncommon practice of youths, as soon as
they can make a pair of trousers, or a part of a garment suitable for a second
class trade in a provincial town , set themselves up for journeymen . They succeed
in getting a job during the busiest part of a season , when employers are glad to
get hold of any one capable of putting a garment together ; but with the end of
the immediate push comes their discharge, and what are they to do ? They
either take to wandering till they can fill up another such gap, or they fall into
the hands of outworkers or slop workers, who, for a trifle , have the use of their
services. Having , as we do, a very extensive correspondence with master tailors
and foremen throughout the Kingdom , the difficulties against which they have
to contend when the demand for labour exceeds their regular supply, forms a
very frequent topic of discourse . We do not anticipate an immediate reforma
tion in this matter from our work ; it is more a matter for the combined action
of masters and men , and if but a small proportion of the energy and sacrifice
expended annually in connection with strikes and lockouts , were directed in a
mutual form in this channel, strikes and lockouts would soon become institutions
of the past. The grand complaint of employers is, that it is the ordinary and
inferior workman that walks off with the booty which comes out of strikes. If
first -class workmen could always be secured for first-class shops, and if workmen
who make almost exclusively first-class garments, could be paid at a higher pro
portion than those only capable ofmaking inferior garments , certainly ,we think
fewer disputes would occur. Be this as it may, something remains to be done
which friendly intercourse between respectable employers and respectable work
men only can effect.
These introductory remarks being specially to point out the necessity for such
a work, what we have stated will, we think, suffice for this purpose . It may
arise from the large proportion of ready-made clothing that is now made, or
the now wide-spread system of outdoor working ; but certain it is, that the
 viii INTRODUCTION .

general standard of excellence in workmanship in the tailoring trade, is not so

high to-day as it has been in years past. A reliable and authoritive work on
Practical Tailoring, compiled from the most reliable sources among masters,
foremen and journeymen, dealing in minute detail with every garment that is
worn , not only by private gentlemen, but naval, military and clerical, with the
various ladies'garments and robes that are made by tailors, is a desideratum for
every class of the trade- for the humble apprentice desiring to learn his profes
sion , for the young man aspiring to be a foreman , and for foremen and masters,
that they may both know when a garment is properly made, and be able to give
instructions as to how it may be.
Such is our work ; and, like many other efforts we have made to meet the
wants of themembers of the profession to which we belong , we cast it upon the
indulgence of those to whom it is addressed.

REAL
 STITCHES USED BY TAILORS
AND THEIR APPLICATION .

S we propose that our work shall be tho- | which case the upper stitch must be as shortas pos
rough and exhaustive of its various sub sible, and theunder one longer, and sewn moderately
V j ects, we will begin at the beginning . tight, so as to effect the slightest possible gathering
After the boy is told which finger the
thimble goes on, has had a little practice in holding
the needle, and has discovered how the propelling
power of the thimble is brought to bear upon the
needle, he is set to learn one or two different styles | of cloth between each stitch, the objectbeing to pro
of stitching - generally beginning with back stitch duce the appearance of a honeycomb. This is done
ing. It is the very foundation of good tailoring to by making each row of the stitching half the dis
understand the various kinds of stitches used , and tance that the stitches are apart, and the stitches
their purposes. Their variety is at oncean evidence arranged as the diagram shews.
of the wide range of work undertaken by the tailor, 2 . - SERGING consists in casting the thread over
and the taste that can be employed in the prosecu
tion of his calling. We doubt not but the enume a material : this is generally done with the unco
ration of the stitches used in the trade will surprise vered seams of washing and ravelling materials,
most tailors, there being very few , even in the course both to prevent the ravelling which would weaken
of a lifetime, who are called upon to use the whole the seam , and the appearance of long unsightly
of them . We are acquainted with nineteen distinct threads. Serging is also used for joining two edges
stitches, some of them capable of being so varied together in cases where it is necessary thatthepieces
as to constitute numerous sub-varieties. Our list joined should be flat, as in the serging a cuff to the
includes Running, Serging , Back -stitching, Back and sleeve. Serging, if well done, can sometimes be
Fore-stitching, Padding, Felling, Side-stitching, substituted for Stoating.
Stoating, Tacking, Drawing, Button-hole, Cross 3 . - The BACK -STITCH is particularly , and almost
stitching, Loop-stitch , Pricking, Rantering, Fine exclusively , the tailor's stitch, and is the most im
drawing, Drawing-in , Chain -stitching, and Quilting. portant used by him , not only from its applicability
Instead of giving a dry detail of the forms of to both sewing and ornamentation , but also on ac
these different stitches, we shall consider the use of count of the structure of the stitch itself, which
each stitch in connection with its nature and con gives such an absolute command in themanipulation
| of the work, by making it long or short, fair ortight
struction. This will prevent repetition , and at the
same time enable the studentmore clearly to under - the particular power ofevery stitch being confined
stand the particular description of sewing to be used to itself, as the looseness or tightness of one cannot
in themaking of different garments, and different be transferred to another, and it is this apparent li
parts of garments. mitation that constitutes the greatness of its power.
1 . – We have the RUNNING STITCH,which simply This peculiarity of the stitch enables the tailor to
consists of passing the needle straight forward in graduate fullness and tightness at pleasure, and to
front of the thread through thematerial being sewn, distribute material, and regulate tension , so as to
leaving the stitches the same length on the top and produce themost artistic effects. Though the Back
undersides. This stitch , in its primitive form , is stitch is the most common and is the one the boy
seldom used by tailors ; but it is often used instead is first set to learn, no description of stitch requires
of rows of side stitching in the stands of collars, in setting with much greater care, than the seaming by
 10 STITCHES MADE BY TAILORS,

which a garment is put together ; few things require presented, the sewing agent being thread, and
more the carefuland experienced hand, than sewing the upper material a coarse cloth, stiffened con
the side-seam , or the lapel seam of a Dress or Frock siderably more by the use of soap ; the reverse, or
coat. To have a permanently good result when right side proper, shewing coarse long stitches, with
properly pressed ,the seam mustbeperfectly straight, out any attempt to improve their appearance by
INSYANVAS
their arrangement, if it were even possible to do so.
SA So soon as better taste began to prevail amongst
good tailors — and we have nothing to do with
and each stitch must be set so as to preserve the bad ones, except to instruct them — a better style
straightunbroken chain behind. The silk should be of padding began to be introduced. Instead of
of the best quality , so as to be no thicker than to putting the needle straight through, and those of
secure the necessary strength . Back -stitching for one row exactly opposite those ofanother,and each
ornamentation by the hand may be said to be en row slightly apart, the practice was adopted ofmak
tirely superseded by the machine, but we doubt ing the stitch longer, putting the rows close together,
the capabilities of the machine to sew such seams and slanting the needle in alternate directions with
as those to which wehave refered . The diagram , every row ,which gives on the sewing side this ap
which represents two pieces of cloth sewn through , 111111111LIVRE
shews the structure of the Back -stitch.
4 . — The BACK and FORE -STITCH , as its name im
plies, is a combination of the back -and-fore orrunning
stitch , and consists in taking a back and then a fore
stitch before the needle is removed from the mate pearance, the sewing agent being silk or fine cotton,
rial, the object being to get sooner over the ground ; and the upper cloth , or stiffening canvas. This
it is the stitch used and well suited for sleeve
and style, instead of a series of long, coarse, straight
other lining. It is also used for pockets, but when stitches on the right side, shewswhen properly done,
so used, it ought to be done closely, and with good little more than an impression worked into a pattern
thread . thus :
5 . - PADDING is a stitch used for giving a fixed
shape to certain portions of a garment, principally
the collars and la pels of coats. Much taste and skill
can be used in theapplication of the stitch. In pad
ding there must necessarily be at least two piecesof
material to sew together, one laid over the other, So little of the thread is intended to be shewn on
and both laying in an elliptical form over the finger the right side that it is the boast of some men that
of the sewer ; in consequence of which, in the act they can pad a collar or lapel with white cotton . To
of sewing, the upper piece is gathered more or less produce the effect of diagram - the needle must be
upon the under one, so that if the necessary care inserted on the sewing side in the direction to be
shewn by the stitch on the right side. But there
and skill is not brought to bear upon the operation ,
are other reasons besides mere appearance in favour
the result.may either be a series ofhard ridges along
the lines of the sewing, or the portion of the gar of this method of padding. When therows are close
ment being sewn may be twisted out of its present together, and the stitches of one row are placed half
form . Weare not of those who believe that tailor way between those of another, a better grip is ob
ing has not improved in modern times ; and, to our tained over the material, and whatever the canvas
mind , there is no better evidence to the contrary may be larger than the cloth , the extra is more
than the difference in the present style of padding equally distributed. To impart extra firmness by
as compared with what it was only thirty years padding, it is necessary to sew thicker.
ago. Then we had the style of padding here re 6 . - FELLING, is a stitch about which much could
besaid ,as it is used in various parts for a large variety
of purposes. In its simplest form Felling consists
/ / / / / / / / /
/ / / // of sewing one piece ofmaterial, by its edge, upon
llllllllllll ll another, the sewn edge being either raw or turned
in according to the material, or the purpose to be
accomplished. The stitch is formed by first taking
 AND THEIR APPLICATION . II

hold of the lower material close up to the edge of or the stand of a collar, the stitch is formed by pla
the one to be felled upon it, and in such a manner cing the needle close by the side of the silk ; but in
as that the needle shall pass through the latter. In stitching an edge of a coat, where one object is ,
every case, Felling requires to be done with care ; that the sewing should command the
when applied to linings, neatness and cleanness is forming the stitch, the needle is put slightly in the
required, a small hold being taken of the upper ma front of the thread, and the hand drawn carefully
terial, great care is necessary in taking hold with the tight ; in this way the stitching commands the edge,
needle of the under material, the hold being such , which is of considerable importance to the garment.
and the silk so drawn that the stitch will not be To stitch an edge of a fine material properly , is the
shewn, and the impression left as little as possible work only of a skilful practised hand.
on the other side.
There are many varieties of Felling, three distinct 8 . – STOATING isan operation by which two edges
types of which are represented by the following are sewn togetherbymeansofa stitch taken through,
diagram . Thearrows sheww the
the direction
direction of
of the
the point
point || and
and over both at the same time. Its object is to

of the needle to produce each form of stitch ; the secure thinness ,and secure also the join being less
position of the thread after it is sewn is also repre- prominent than a seam , and it may be done with
sented , from which it will be seen that owing to the such care as to elude observation . It is generally
different forms of each stitch, the quantity of thread used where seams are not supposed to be, either on
used with each varies. It is also evident that the the inside or outside of a garment – in piecing fa
relative strength of each stitch varies with the quan cings inside, cuts under rolls, and wheel pieces out
tity of thread consumed in its formation, that re side. In Stoating, the two edges of the material
quiring the most being the strongest. The stitch A are placed together, and held between the forefinger
approaches nearest a straight line and consumes the and thumb, in which position , except as regards the
least quantity of thread. This form is mostly used piece so held, the hand is between the two edges,
for Felling in linings, or in any position where no the work passing out as the sewing proceeds. The
thing more than lightness is required, being unsuit edges being laid together, the stitch is formed by
able in any portion of a garmentwhere there is any the needle passing through the two, splitting them
strain. Where there is a strain, such as in the Fell- in the process, so that the silk is not seen, on the
ing of a sleeve head , the stitch marked C is the pro- right side, and the join but faintly seen after being
per one to use. The stitch marked B is a top stitch properly pressed. In the act of sewing, the needle
- instead of the needle being first inserted in the must be passed through the material at a rightangle
lower material, it is first inserted in the upper, and
carried well under at every stitch . This stitch is
used when great strength is required , or when it is
desired to sink the edge of the upper material as
much as possible in the lower, as in substituting
Felling for drawing the end of a collar. There are
two ways of Felling . When felling linings or edges, to its edges, as shewn by the Diagram , the needle
passing from the sewer, as indicated by the arrow .
the edge felled is turned from the sewer, but when In the finished work therefore the biassed portion
felling an upturn or inturn of cloth upon itself, the of the stitch would be seen , the straight portion
edge to be felled is turned longways towards the passing
sewer, begun at the left side and proceeds towards rection ofthrough
the
thematerial. Attention to the di
needle is of considerable importance
the right ; in the other case it is begun at the right
and proceeds towards the left side. in Stoating ; as if it does not pass straight through ,
one or other of the edges will be held on. In Stoat
7. - The SIDE-STITCH is used for sewing two ing, after the sewing is complete, the two edges are
pieces of material together, leaving an impression not perfectly flat, as in sewing, the edges are turned
merely, without showing the thread. A skilful tai upwards, by which means, on the surface side, the
lor alters the form or position of this stitch, both to two portions of material are drawn close together.
suit the material, and the object for which the stitch In Stoating, the thread is drawn with a jerk just so
is being used . In fancy stitching, such as facings tight as not to break. Besides holding thematerial
 12 STITCHES USED BY TAILORS,
between the finger and thumb, Stoating may be per of the thumb ; then with the scissors open insert
formed by laying the two edges together on the sur the point where the front end of the hole is to be,
face of another piece of material, usually one or working it through till felt by the finger, then pro
another of those being joined is turned back forthis ceed to cut, three cuts being required to each hole ;
purpose, when the whole is then held between the in taking the last cut the intended length of the
finger and thumb. hole must be gauged by the finger, by which means
9 . - Although we treat TACKING as a separate any number of holes can be cut of the same length .
stitch, with one exception, it is usually an applica If the hole is to have a piece out in front, the lapel
tion of either the Back or Side-stitch, according to must be turned round so that the edge is furthest
the position of the part to which it is applied , of from the worker, and the piece cut out, which , ex
which we shall speak in their proper places. The cept in the case of heavy materials or thick necked
Tacking stitch proper consists in first making three buttons need not be large. The piece should be cut
or four bars of thread by alternately passing the out clean , and of a roundish oblong form . The
needle up and down at each end of the intended next step, and the first towards the working of the
tacking, by which means a series of threadsare laid hole, is the barring, which consists of carrying the
as a foundation on both the upper and under sur twist round the hole at a distance from the edge,
face ; after which the needle is passed alternately according to the width it is intended to make the
up and down on each side of those threads, so that button-hole. The object of carrying the thread
round the edge previous to beginning the button
a series of stitches are cast over
them , finally presenting this aphole stitch, is to command the edge ; it is also a
pearance, except that the dia guide
round .
towards regulating the width of stitch all
The twist is generally carried twice round
gram shews the long or under
threads wider apart than they in barring button-holes that are in continual use .
would be in an actual tacking , Before commencing to work a coat hole , a loose
in which, instead of the threads looped thread held under the thumb is generally
being placed by the side of each other, they would passed over the barring to keep it from falling over
be upon the top, the practice being to advance the the edge, which must be prevented under all circum
needle at the ends,slightly beyond where the pre stances. To commence working, place the lefthand
side of the hole between the fingerand thumb,with
vious stitch ended.
10. — The BUTTON-HOLE Stitch, as regards the the side of the hole laying along the finger ; then
press the point of the needle through the open hole
finished appearance of a garment, is one of themost to its under side and through the material to the
important used by the Tailor, and for the full un upper side, then , before pulling it out, cast the two
derstanding of which it is necessary to describe the threads hanging from the eye of the needle towards
whole process ofmaking a Button-hole. In the first the sewer and over the pointof the needle from him ,
place, wherever there are a number of holes, care then draw out the needle and pull the thread home,
must be taken to cut them all the same length , and when the first pearl stitch will be complete, and all
never longer than required , as, both for strength that remains is to continue the same operation till
and appearance, a hole should never be worked the hole is finished: If a round ended-hole, in going
shorter than it is cut. As in some respect or other round the end the stitches must be put very thickly
applying to most descriptions of holes, we will deal and the pearl thrown well up, so as to preserve it
with those in the breast of a coat, without noticing from the neck of the button . On reaching the end
here the stages in the progress of the garment at of the last side of the hole the end stitches of the
which some of the operations will be performed , two sides should, with the needle, be brought close
which will be treated of in their proper place. The together, and then bound close by a couple of
first thing is to mark our holes straight, in their pro stitches formed by passing the needle up and down
per directions, and correctdistances apart ; this is alternate sides, and finished off by two or three loop
best done with a chalked thread , laying the lapel or stitches formed over the cross ones. In the case of
edge on which the holes are to be placed on the thigh, square-ended holes, the finish at the first end reached
and drawing the thread in the desired direction. is precisely the same as thatwehave just described ,
Having marked them ,we proceed to cut, by taking with the difference that it is formed with only one
the place where the hole is to be between the finger side of the hole finished, therefore in starting to
and thumb, with the edge of the lapel towards us, work the second side, care must be taken that it is
the end of the finger being advanced beyond that very close under the end.
 AND THEIR APPLICATION . 13

So far we have simply described the process of 12 . - The Cross Stitch is used for ornamenta
button -hole working, but while it may be the same tion, or as a substitute for felling in thin and wash
stitch , all the difference between a good and bad ing materials, or those liable to fray on the edge.
tradesman can be seen in the button -holes of diffe- The formation of the stitch commences on the left
rent garments. Shew an experienced foreman a and consists in passing the needle alternately on and
newly finished coat, and the first thing he looks at off the edge, slightly through the material and in
is the form of collar and la pel, and the next is the advance of the last stitch. The nature and effect
button -holes ; if these two are right, it is taken of this stitch is clearly shewn by the accompanying
pretty well for granted that every thing else will be diagram :
It is scarcely possible to give such written instruc
tion , as would of itself be sufficient to make any one
a good button -hole worker, so much is it a matter
of careful observation during practice ; having first | A development of the Cross Stitch producing two
formed a correct idea of what a good button-hole distinct appearances is also occasionally used for
ornamental purposes ; following the diagram , the
should be, it must be studiously aimed at tillaccom
plished. Note two thingshowever : thestitch should stitch is formed, commencing to the left,by starting
be thrown slightly up and for
ward,and every stitch pulled to
its place with exactly the same
tightness ; very much depends
in the appearance of a button
hole upon the strain on the
thread when the stitches are car
ried home. The peculiarities
in button -hole working suitable
for each material and garment
1
will be treated under their pro
per heads.
11. - DRAWING is a stitch sewn on the surface with a knot under the material at 1, then putting
for the purpose of joining two double edges together the needle through at 2 bringing it up at 3, down
so as to give it the appearance of being seamed in again at 4, up at 5 , down at 6 , up again at 2, down
the ordinary way, as in the case of collar ends. The at 7, up at 4, down at 8, up at 6, down at 9 ,upat 7,
stitch consists in alternately passing the needle and so on to the end ; each advance of the needle
through each double edge,and drawing the thread being half the length of a stitch, as for example a ,
moderately tight so as to pull the two edges close where the needle is inserted, is in advance of b, a
together. Another form of Drawing is a stitch previously laid thread, and from where the needle
substituted in the case of thick materials, to join rises at c the next thread will be carried forward to
two edges together in place of serging, or in situa | d. A considerable difference can be given to this
tions where the latter could not be conveniently stitch by varying the the angle of the threads. As
accomplished. The stitch is formed by passing the will be seen in the finished work, the threads com
needle alternately under and over each edge of the posing the stitches are alternately above and below
material, thus : each other, a peculiarity represented on the diagram .
This diagram shews a variation presenting a dif.
It will ferent appearance, but the figures shew hat the
be seen by working of the stitch is precisely the same as that
this arrange given above, the change of appearance being pro
ment that duced by widening the space occupied by the sew

the stitch on the under side

assumes the appearance of a
series of V's, as shewn at the
end of the diagram .
 14 STITCHES USED BY TAILORS,
ing and considerably reducing the angle of the 15 . - Rantering is a process used for the pur
threads. The same as in the other case, the threads | pose of concealing the presence of a seam , and
fall one over and one under ; and as in the previous although a practice of the past, it is still sometimes
diagram , to produce a perfect pattern , the lower resorted to. The seam to be rantered must first be
place of inserting the needle must be half the | lightly and evenly seamed by the Back Stitch. We
breadth between the stitches nearer the right hand. have seen in our day, seams prepared for Rantering,
13 . – The LOOP STITCH may very appropriately done both by the half Back -stitch and the Running
be described after the Cross Stitch, as in one of its stitch , either of which gives an uneven appearance
forms, under the designation of Post and Rail, it is when the work is finished, and such an amount of
extra trouble in pressing as to prove no saving of
used for overcasting edges when it is not desirable time. After sewing the seam , double both edges
to increase their thickness by either binding or
turning over and felling. The stitch is produced back on the right side, working them with the
finger and thumb as close down to the sewing as
as follows:
possible, then pass the needle backwards and for
wards through both edges, taking the smallest pos
AN sible grip of the material, and pull the hand just
tight enough to sink the stitch, the stitch itself
being a Side-stitch set slightly forward. For Ran
tering, a fine needle should be used and very fine
silk , the best being a strand pulled out of a piece of
good silk braid . Having finished the Rantering,
A B represents the edge of the material; at the turn the seam over to the wrong side, into the
left hand we shew several finished stitches, and at same position as when being sewn, and rub the
C the loose thread leaving the last formed stitch ; seam along between the fingers and thumbs of both
this thread is caught by the worker under the hands, then turn it over to the right side, and
thumb, D, at any convenient distance from the scratch the wool over the Ranter with a stout
edge ; the needle is then inserted at the back of needle . When waist seams in coats were first in
thematerial, brought through to the surface, E re troduced, the idea prevailed that they should be seen
presenting the needle end of the thread ; the thread as little as possible, and hence were frequently
is just pulled home and the process repeated. The Rantered. Waist seams now form a special feature
arrows shew the direction in which the thread | in a coat.
travels. 16 . - FINE DRAWING is a process by which two
14 . - The PRICK STITCH is employed to give edges are joined together without the sewing being
either strength or appearance, and consists in alter visible, and to be as strong as if there were no join .
nately passing the needle straight up and down In practice it is used for mending tears. The
through thematerial, the stitch itself being either a finest needle made— 12 sharp, must be used , and
Back or a Side Stitch , the former being very seldom one strand of the finest twist, then the needle is
used it calls for no special consideration. In nearly passed backwards and forwards across the edges to
all cases of strapping, Pricking must be resorted to be joined, and just under the surface of the mate
in consequence of the thickness of material; the rial ; but,at each insertion of the needle,the length
same also in the lapped seams of heavy Beavers, of the stitch must be varied, so as to prevent the
Devons, and Kerseys, when not done by the ma appearance of a ridge at the ends of the sewing ;
chine, the work of which we shall treat separately . the form and arrangement of the stitches being
Pricking, though not so much as formerly , is used thus :
to make up the edges of Vests and Coats made of
thin material; when used for these purposes, it
should be moderately close to the edge, and the
needle so inserted that both sides of the work will
appear nearly the same. To produce a pleasing
effect, all the stitches must be equal distances apart, A and B representing the edges to be joined .
and the hand so pulled as that the stitch sinks Although sometimes expected, it is impossible suc
gently into the material, and so that each stitch not cessfully to apply Fine Drawing to any other than
only leaves its own impression, but that the whole torn edges, for the simple reason that if an edge is
forms a moderately sunk groove. cut, the wool thatshould overlay the join is cut
 AND THEIR APPLICATION . 15

short off, and the cut must therefore necessarily ever the creasing is not more than three-eighths of
shew itself. If the material is very stout, it is an inch apart each way, so as to give a square in
often necessary to draw on both sides. A Fine stead of a diamond pattern. In this Quilting the
Draw should be pressed on the wrong side, with appearance of the cross creasing can be produced
the right side laying on a piece of linen , and a by the method of sewing , but if made with the
piece also between the iron and the cloth, with an iron, the one used for the perpendicular rows will
iron just off the burn . Previous to pressing, scratch | be hot enough to crease the cross ones after the
the wool gently over the whole of the Fine Draw former are done.
with a couple of fine needles. 18 . - DRAWING IN may be originally described
17. - Quilting is of two descriptions, the one as a running stitch drawn tight so as to gather the
consisting of rows of side stitching crossing each materialmore or less upon itself ; but in this form
other so as to throw a diamond pattern, of which it is seldom used by the tailor, except for basting
we need say little here. Then there is Quilting purposes, and therefore in this particular does not
that is preceded by the use of an iron to crease the require any notice. The Drawing-in we shall de
material to the pattern to be represented, after scribe, is used for the production of piping in vari
which it is basted on the interlining, consisting of ous descriptions of Robes,as in the gowns of Bar
either Wadding or Domett, and sewn with a Side risters, or those of some public schools. These
stitch at each corner only. This kind of Quilting Robes are made of thin material, the backs and
is used for linings of Dressing Gowns, and some sleeves being gathered , in the form of piping, on to
times for extra warm Overcoats, the pattern being a shoulder piece . The following diagram will
produced by first creasing the silk or other material explain the whole process :
straight with the warp from top to bottom in rows The diagram represents a piece ofmaterial in the
from two to three inches apart, and then creasing act of being piped , the pipes being shown asdrawn
other rows across the woof at any desired degree of up on the right side. Suppose the work to be com
inclination , the same distance apart as the straight mencing, a piece of firm Tweed or Melton should
ones, by which a diamond pattern is given. A be basted on the back of the material, the depth
Quilting of the same description is also used for the that the piping is to extend, then lines must be
body linings of Military clothing, and the side lin - drawn across, as from the lines marked A A , at
ings of dress and frock coats, in which cases how about one inch apart ; then perpendicular lines,as

ALES
 16 STITCHES USED BY TAILORS,

marked B B , which must be regulated in their dis - | ticular would be fatal to the finished work , which
tance apart, according to the amount ofmaterial to could scarcely be remedied by even taking out,as
be drawn in , only, that thespaces marked C - which the material takes a set, which it is very difficult to
in drawing-in will become pipes,must never exceed remove.
from three-eighths to half an inch, just according 19 . - The CHAIN STITCH
is exclusi
vely used for
as the thickness of thematerial will allow of a good ornamentation , and is in reality an elongated Loop
close round pipe being produced. In the diagram , stitch, formed in precisely the samemanner except
the dotted lines represent the working marks, and that the needle is put forward instead of sideways,
the black lines the thread used , the E's slowing the and begun from the right instead of the left.
loose ends. The next step, aftermarking, is to take The
as many needles threaded with four cord thread, as following diagram shows the form and method of
there are rows to be drawn, and beginning at the
right hand run each needle through the proper
spaces, that is the junction of the lines A A and
B B. Having run in the threads, or an equal por
tion of them on every line, the drawing-in can be
commenced, to effect which, the needle ends of the producing the stitch , the needle being inserted at
threads must be taken hold of equally , and all at the points forming the back ends of the stitch, and
once in the right hand, with the left hand portion withdrawn at the point immediately behind where
of the materialto the worker ; then with the left the loop is intended to fall, the loose thread being
hand pass thematerial equally on to the threads, it held under the thumb, as at C, until the needle is
being remembered that any failure in the latter par- inserted and withdrawn.

THE SEWING MACHINE,

20 . - It is within the memory of many of the its strength, but does not prevent, as in the case of
present generation , that while machinery was fast machine sewing, the sewn part of a garment from
superseding hand labour in other professions, tailors adapting itself to the motion of the weareras freely
confidently predicted that a machine could not be as if it were not cut up into parts. Adopting the
invented to sew . Disappointed in this, they con word for convenience ,machine sewing,as compared
tented themselves with the idea that there were with hand sewing, fails in every quality except
several parts of a garment, including button holes, regularity of appearance. Its sole capability is
which machinery could never accomplish ; while confined to a good imitation of Back -stitching, and
the facts are , that there is now very little indeed in is made to do duty in that capacity,and is also made
the way of putting garments together that may not a substitute for Side-stitching. It must be under
be done by the machine, providing that those who stood that there are only two descriptions of stitch
wear them are satisfied with the result. We, how - formed by sewing machines, viz. : the lock and the
ever say, that in the proper acceptation of the term , chain ; as regards these, the experience of tailors
there is no such thing as a SEWING machine : has taught them to discard the chain or single
Sewing is accomplished with one thread only, its thread machine ; we have, therefore, practically
excellency of appearance depends upon its regu only to do with the lock -stitch. Candidly, however,
larity , and its strength upon the quantity of thread it must be admitted that the chain-stitch is the
used , over the length being sewn. It is this latter nearestapproach to hand sewing, butwhich is really
quality that also gives that degree of elasticity to not in its favour, as this is a stitch, when made by
sewing by hand which not only constitute a part of hand, that is used for ornamental purposes only ,
 THE SEWING MACHINE. 17

and never for putting together. One peculiarity rigid ; the whole of the conditions being the oppo
common to both stitches is, that whatever elasticity site of those in the case of the tailor.
they possess is largely dependent upon their short 22. – Of course we have been speaking of the
ness ; this carries it more frequently into the centre
perfect stitch, without at all discussing defects
of the material, and so is one means of increasing arising from unskilful performance ; where that
the quantity of thread used . operates, a variety of evils arise which we need not
21. - It is true that in machine sewing we have enumerate. A constant operating cause of weak
a comparatively large consumption of thread ; it is, ness in machine sewing arises from a difference of
however used in a way that does not impart elas tension , or of length between the upper and under
ticity , but rather prevents it. The form of ma threads, arising from the difference in the circum
chine sewing and the means by which it is accom ference of the spools or bobbins on which the two
plished will be clearly understood by this diagram : threads are wound. The gradual influence of this
difference, if not counteracted, produces this re
BEEEE

sult - passing gradually from the junction of the

threads being in the centre of the material, as on
the left of the diagram , to a straight thread on the
aaaa
back , as on the right of the diagram . From what

We here represent two thicknesses of material we have said itwill be seen that we do not consider
being joined together, which is accomplished by machine sewing can be used with such satisfac
the needle, A , being driven straight through at B ; tory results for general tailoring purposes as hand
this carries the upper thread C, with it, and throws sewing ; neither is it so used in first-class trades.
out the loop D ; the shuttle E , then passes through
this loop carrying with it the lower thread , F, the 23 . - What we have said is founded upon a
needle then rises and what is called the stitch is consideration of good tailoring , which we believe
completed, and so on successively producing the cannot be accomplished along with an indiscrimi
stitches G G . It will be seen that the whole opera nate use of the machine. We are perfectly aware
tion is progressive only , and that there is none ofthat the machine is largely used , and that our ob
that back or sideling method, which, by permitting servations, even if so intended, will have no effect
stress gives strength and elasticity to hand , or true upon it ; our object is not to take into considera
sewing . What is accomplished by the machine tion what is done, but simply to treat of first-class
may fairly be called a double Fore-stitch drawn workmanship . Having so far explained the rea
sons why the machine cannot be used for general
tight, and the only elasticity it possesses is derived first-class work , we consider that it can be used
from the thickness of thematerialand the shortness
of the stitch , viz ., that the stitches themselves with advantage for all non -elastic fabrics, such as
amount to no more than two threads twisted to Cords, Moleskins, Velveteens. and Plush ; in all
gether. The nature of the machine lock- stitch will these materials the machine will produce a better
be readily understood by a comparison with the result than hand sewing , as the hand cannot pull
shoemaker's stitch,and its value in tailoring readily the thread tight enough without cutting the mate
estimated. The shoemaker forms a double fore rial. As a rule the machine may also be used with
stitch with two threads, but unaccompanied by any advantage for lapped seams and strapping ; also for
edges, single or double stitched, except the raw
twisting of the threads ; he uses, however, a strong edge of superfines, and where not objectionable ,for
adhesive wax, and his stitches are shorter on the putting on binding. The machine is also equally
surface than they are through thematerial, besides well adapted for all description of ornamental work
which, his material is non -elastic and his work

mmmm
 HOW TO MAKE
A SUPERFINE FROCK COAT .

24 . - Having disposed of the mechanical for- | with the cutter, and is held responsible for the
mation of stitches, we will now proceed to the proper carrying out of his orders. Serious mistakes
making of various garments, commencing with a might occur in making up, through a collar-man
Superfine Frock Coat. We choose to start with this not comprehending the directions given him , or not
garment, as it demands the highest efforts of the properly repeating them to his partners. Upon the
tailor to make and finish it to perfection, and be collar-man devolves the task of finishing a coat, in
cause the instructions we give in connection with doing which he can either make or mar its appear
as we proceed with other
it will be largely available ance. We say this much on the qualifications
demanded of a good collar-man so as to guard
garments. As wemust proceed upon a fixed plan,we against
shall follow that adopted by the best London trades , the belief that “ anybody " can fill the post,
and to impress upon young men the importance of
and treat coats as being made in thirds, one man always keeping their eyes and ears open, so as to
always making the collar third , and two forepart gather all the knowledge they can, whether they
men always taking alternate sides. We follow this them
course, not only because it is themost usual in the intend to continue journeymen , or to qualify assure
convenient, selves for a higher position , and we can
best trades,
enabling garments madetheinmost
but alsotoasbebeing a shorter time, every young man who desires to advance him
and lessens the work of the cutter by giving him
self, that it is of the first importance he should
fewermen to deal with , as well as making his in thoroughly understand collar-making, and the in
fluence of shape of gorge on style and fit. This is
structions more effective,by always giving them to the point upon which , as a rule, cutters are least
he same person . informed ; they usually leave the board without
25 . — The way in which a coat is divided into having had any practice in this particular, and it
thirds is settled by the practice of the shop, and is scarcely ever forms any part in the instructions
influenced by the method in which the “ extras ” . given by teachers of cutting . Many cutters enter
are disposed of. In some cases each third takes its tain the idea that the whole fit and appearance of a
own extras, in others , they are shared by the three collar depends upon the maker, that a good collar
partners ; but we need not inquire too minutely maker can take a strip of cloth and manipulate it
into this, as it will be sufficient for our purpose to to any required form . The wildest romance was
assume that fitting up, collar and sleeves, are one never further from the truth . Cutting and making
third ; the left forepart another ; the right forepart must go hand in hand, and not only so as regards
and joining the coat the other. the collar, but the gorge must be of such shape,
26 . - It is the collar man's duty to receive the length, height, or depth as will admit of a collar of
. So well do some professional
“ job,” which is generally rolled up in the canvas, the style required
collar-men understand this, that they
and practised
and tied with stay tape. But before we proceed, it
will be useful at this stage to know what the duties , have
have
standard patterns, and make the gorges they
to deal with subservientto them - a " wrinkle "
responsibilities and qualifications of a collar man
are — the proper discharge of his duties requiring not always known to some of our most satisfied
more experience than any other branch of the trade; cutters. Some think that one definite rule is capa
indeed, a good collar man is a perfect adept in all ble of producing any desired style, or fit of collar,
matters connected with it, and is expected to direct which is quite as far from themark as the “ strip of
his partners in every emergency. To be useful to cloth ” delusion. We believe there is nothing so
his employer and partners, he must also know ex mutable as the collar of a coat, and that no part of
actly what the latter and himself can accomplish in the garment requires more attention on the part of
a given time. He it is who comes in direct contact both cutter and maker.
 HOW TO MAKE A SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 19
27 . - But to proceed to business, the first thing ask for whatever may be deficient, and then to di
the collar man does, after he has got the job before vide the sewings. The next step is to put in the
him , is to read the ticket, note the particulars of | marking stitches,which should be done by a fore
making, and time wanted. The ticket we will sup - stitch with double thread ; we use the word thread
pose is as follows : in its usual sense as meaning linen thread. As the
law holds the collar man responsible for the whole
H . GREY, Esq., job , although he only makes a part, hemust be al
lowed some control over his partners, and he cannot
be too careful to keep in his own hands the means
BLACK SUPER, FROCK , of knowing if the two sides of a garment aremade
P . P., I. B. P., Col 1 13. alike ; wemean as regards putting together. Be
Silk Sleeve Linings . sides leaving all the marking stitches in till the
Wednesday 4 o'clock. finishing , when any difference could be readily de
tected , in all cases where there are outlets, such as
H . GREY, ESQ. at back scyeand gorge point of shoulder, they should
be slightly cut in on the edge, also for the purpose
If further directions have been received, so faras of detecting any difference in putting together. We
they concern them , they should be repeated to the are here speaking in the interest of the workman,
forepart men . The ticket informs us apart from that of the employer in having his work
1st. The name of the person the garment is for. properly done ; to many, because they finally pass
2nd. The nature of the garment. unnoticed, these points may appear of little conse
quence , but the fact is, as every man of experience
3rd . The position and kind of pockets, viz : P. P. knows, they give rise to much trouble , and many
(pockets outsidepleat), I. B. P.( insidebreast pocket) disagreements . Suppose one man puts his
always in the left side, if not otherwise directed back on
4th . That there is to be silk sleeve linings. longer than the other, it is impossible that the side
5th . That the stand of collar is to be one inch ,and | seams can be alike, and one hip will be lower than
the fall one inch and a half ; and | the other, often attributed by theuninitiated to the
joining, and often by knowing ones apparently set
6th . Itis to be finished by 4 o'clock on Wednesday, right
This is a very general form in which a ticket is in the joining, by allowing the back that has
been kept long on at the side seams to pass up an
given with a job ; still, in the hands of a stranger, equal quantity
he would be at considerable loss in regard tomany at the top ; the coat then appears all
right at the hip, but what sort of a plight is the
points of detail ; the position of inside breast pocket collar man when he comes to finish ? he will find
being one, nor is there any particulars as to the
making up the edges, number of holes, cuff or no all right collar,
that his if properly fitted and made, goes on
on one side, but is all wrong on the other,
cuff, or droop of sleeve if there be a cuff, and if
with cuffs, whether hole and button or plain round ; the one gorge having been carried up as much too
nor is there any mention of skirt, or side lining. high as the back was passed up ; and unless he is
what is called “ fly " he will not know the reason of
But in all these particulars, the practice of the shop
is followed, when nothing to the contrary is stated his discomfiture. Exactly the same thing happens
on the ticket. Sometimes even height and fall of if, when there is a usual at the gorge, one back at
colour are omitted, in which case they follow a ge the shoulder seam is carried up higher than the other.
neral rule. In trades where jobs are given out by Wecould givemany other examples of the way a
the trimmer, or some one other than the cutter, the bycollar man's time is wasted , and his patience taxed
careless fore part men , but what we have given
latter, if he wishes to give instructions that cannot is illustration enough , and justifies the use of pre
be written or detailed on a ticket, simply puts on
the word “ enquire ;” in which case it is the duty of cautions against their occurrence. A very good way
the collarman to enquire, before he begins the job. to secure the proper joining of a coat, is to put a
slight cut in the backs, about an inch from the top.
28 . - Supposing all these preliminaries settled , Here we may state that for basting generally,
we arrive at the conclusion that a “ squad " are about any description of material, unglazed linen thread
to make a plain superfine Frock coat with plain is the best ; not only as giving a firmer hold of the
edges, a round cuff, and five holes up the breast ; | article basted, but being also less liable to cut in
we shall begin so far with the collar third . His first pulling out, and as leaving the least mark behind .
duty is to see that all the trimmings are in , and to ' In putting in the marking stitches, they should be
 20 HOW TO MAKE A

put in the plait of the shirt, the whole way down, width of the sleeve from the fore arm . After as
so as to ensure that the two plaits are made up certaining the width that the under side should be,
alike, and as a test of correct putting together, the puff should be taken out before the sleeve is
covered marking stitches should not be taken out, | hollowed , and if a pleat be laid , it should be basted
and those in sightnot till the garment is ready for to the required size before hollowing, the basting
pressing off. In the course of putting in themarks, remaining till the sleeve is sewn in . If the extra
any inequality of size, resulting from careless cut- size is kept on as fullness, the sleeve must not be
ting, should be observed and corrected , as these 80 much hollowed as if hooked in. If a puff is
produce a difference in relative size of sleeve, scye, taken out, the way it is done is not a matter of in
and gorge. This is a point indeed upon which cut difference. In the annexed Diagram we have
ters themselves should be exceedingly careful, as
neglect on their part gives rise to carelessness on
the part of workmen .
29. - After putting in the marks,measure the
length of lapel, and cut it by the standard pattern ,
of which every collar man should keep several, for
different sizes and styles ; this, for the ease of the
forepart men , should be carefully and properly
done ; then fit the collar, so far as its form and
length is concerned. The next thing is to cut and
plan the facings, laying aside cloth for collar and
cuffs till the collar man is ready to commence his
own part ; the breast facing should be cut in
advance of the forepart at the bottom , and more or
less according to the degree of round on the breast
of the forepart. The planing of linings also falls
within the province of the fitter-up.
From what we have said it will be seen that we
attach much importance to fitting up, looking upon
it as something more than a mere piece of routine,
laying as it does the groundwork for the correct
and regular progression of the garment toward its
completion .
30 . - Having now prepared for his forepartmen shown two ways — one, straight down, shown by
proceeding with their parts, the collar man will dotted lines, the other slightly curved and pointed
next make his sleeves. It is a common thing for towards the elbow . It is evident that which ever
men to say “ anybody can make a sleeve," and in mode is followed , the two sides of the puff, as from
the sense that " anybody " can make " anything," A to B,must be made of equal length , and it is
no doubt it is true, but in no other, for as much equally evident, if it is cut straight down, that the
side next the hind-arm is shorter than if cut on the
taste can be displayed in making a sleeve as in any
thing else. But, however carefully it may be cut, slant, as shewn by the heavy lines. The effect
something more than merely putting together has of this difference is so clearly apparent that no
to be attended to by themaker,or in the putting in. argument need be used to enforce which is right.
Upon a most important point, how the difference in One great result between hooking in and taking
size between the top and under sideshall be treated , out a puff, is the effect the two methods have on
the wish of the cutter must be consulted — that is, the hollowing of the under side of sleeve ; themore
whether it shall be hooked in , a pleat laid , a puff it is hooked in, the more must it be hollowed to
taken out, or the extra size kept on as fullness. obtain a run, and consequently the shorter the dis
Which ever method is adopted affects thehollowing tance becomes between the top of side-body and
of the sleeve, and consequently the length of the elbow .
under side between scye and elbow . We consider 31 . – Our object in going into minute particu
hooking-in the most objectionable, and prefer the
taking out of a puff, at about one-third of total lars upon all such matters in tailoring is not influ
enced by the supposition that many things we write
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT .

about are not understood, but to impress the im - | inches, four for width of cuff,one for drop and one
portance of attention to every detail, both as a eighth for seam . In that case the distance to mark
means of turning out better work and as being up the sleeve would be three inches, taking care
really a saving of time ; sparing the trouble and that themark runs fairly round , without any points
annoyance, as a job proceeds, of remedying some atthe seams; then placing the top edge of the cuff,
thing previously one wrong . Foi want of atten upside down to themark, seam it round, then turn
tion to small particulars,manymen are in continual the cuff down, and serge it round to the bottom of
trouble. the sleeve with black silk , which will press better,
32. — The first thing to do in commencing a and will not so readily show if the linings should
pair of sleeves, is to cut the cuffs, if any ; this get worn ; after which bite up the seam , this will
should be done by first marking a straight line on make the cuff lay flat. Many object to a cuff being
the cloth, and placing thebottom edge of the sleeve seamed round, but the objection is generally founded
on it, then below it mark off double the width of upon the seaming notbeing properly done; seaming
the too-set or drop ; now lay a straight edge level certainly leaves little or no mark if the sleeve re
with the back and fore-arm seams and mark the quires to be let down, and it can be done far more
seams of the cuffs to run with those of the sleeve ; evenly than felling, and will lay much flatter. Even
remove the sleeve, mark off the full depth , then if the top of a cuff requires to be stitched we prefer
seam it, and then stitch it with a strand of silk
make the too-set edge hollow by dropping a quarter todrawn piece of good braid . Having finished
of an inch at the seams, taking asmuch off the top the cuff,fromputa the linings in . When silk ribbon is
edge, cut slightly narrower than the sleeve at the used for facings, - as it usually is, when the sleeve
top and slightly wider at the bottom ; do not spring
linings are not of silk , it ought to be run under the
out at the bottom to give breadth to the too-set iron, stretching the top edge as much as possible ,
edge, but before serging to , slightly stretch it. A shrinking
cuff cut and put too in this manner, will be free and the bottom .
from any unsightly hollows at the seams, and will 34 . — The sleeves are now ready for pressing
fit clean and smooth all round. Next cut thesleeve off ; for which purpose lay them smoothly on the
linings,which , below the elbow , should be no wider double so that the seams can be pressed on the
than the sleeve ; above the elbow they should be outside ; this can usually be done to the fore-arm
gradually run to a seam wider than the sleeve at at one run from top to bottom , and the hind arm in
both fore and hind arm , and a turning in higher three parts, the centre one being the elbow portion .
than the sleeve at the top . Sleeve linings should In pressing the seams, so much of the cuffs have
always be flash basted in , slightly longer than the been pressed also ; finish pressing the other por
sleeve, at the fore-arm first, beginning at the top, tions, that of the top side first,after which carefully
or at any rate measuring from the top, so as to damp all over, the seams first and then the centre
keep it in its proper place ; for if more than the portions, and finally hallow ready for putting in .
proper quantity is allowed to pass up, the whole is | 35 . – The collar man having finished his sleeves,
displaced and becomes too tight. One thing to be we will proceed with the foreparts, returning to him
carefully observed in sleeve linings, is to adjust the and his collar when these are ready for him . As a
top exactly to the sleeve, that is, if the one is rule, the collar man is in possession of the succeed
hooked in an inch, so must the other. It is a com ing garment before his two partners have finished
mon error, with a view of giving room , to hook the their foreparts , and has prepared every thing for
lining in less than the sleeve, and to keep on the them and got a little ahead before he begins to put
extra size so obtained in the form of fullness to on his collar. But even if a “ squad " start clean
wards the fore -arm , by which means it becomes handed, the forepartmen need not sit still during
slightly twisted ; the lining, in fact, ought to ex the process of fitting up, as in the meantime they
actly follow the form and position of the sleeve. can be making their backs. Taking the left one
33. - Having sewn the seams and linings, press first, a straight line should be drawn from top to
open those of sleeves and cuffs, and those of the bottom , leaving the “ back tommy " - or portion for
linings flat; then turn out the sleeves and mark a | lapping over,the desired width ; now mark another
line round, so far up as will, after being sewn on, line on the turning in edge and carefully pare to
leave the cuff the intended width ; thus, suppose it ; then firmly, with a private stitch , tack in on the
the cuff is to be four inches deep with one inch of inturn , a straight piece of linen , so that the double
drop , then it will have to be cut five and one-eighth edge will be close to the edge of the back when
 22 HOW TO MAKE A

turned in, after which baist down the inturn as much. The foundation of a good formed front de
marked , and fell as described in par 6 . The same pends upon the proper length of lapel,which should
instruction will apply to the right back , except that be adjusted so as to save the necessity for more
it may be sprung out at the bottom to the extent drawing in than can be avoided , with which its
that its width will allow , and that at the top it form has much to do. As a general rule , the lapel
should be turned in rather less, as, when the back should be cut half a seam shorter than the breast,
skirt is opened when sitting, the stress is less on and should be put to, half a seam easy at the lower
the tacking ; there should be no loose portion of part, which would leave it a seam tight upwards.
the under lap of the back beyond the tacking. The degree of tightness with which the seam should
be sewn, depends upon the degree of round on the
36 . — The partner to whom it ismostconvenient, breast
should thoroughly wet the canvas and lay it aside, and the form of the lapel; it requires that
folded up, to be afterwards smoothed by the first the seam should be drawn into a straight. Weare
iron used. There are few canvases that do not the supposing that our lapel is of the form shown by
shrink upon the application of water, and then annexed diagram , as regards which we shall
come out again more or less under the iron . But have more to say when wereturn to the collar third ,
as the exact nature of the canvas cannot be known, it being sufficient here to say that it is to turn from
it should always be wetted and smoothed, which where the < is, at which point the top lower hole
reduces it to an unalterable condition , will be placed.
37. - We now proceed to put together,— or 39. – Wenow come to the waist seam , our first
duty
technically - get ready for the “ first press ;" first either being to correct any irregularity of run in
putting-to the sidebody, which mustbe, - asregards side, forepart or lapel. The space within
stretching down or not, according to the direction which the fullness is put, must to a large extent
of the cutter. If it is to be stretched, do so with depend the directions of the cutter ; generally , it
should not
the teeth before sewing the seam ; stretching be largest portionbe too near either back or front, and the
of it should always be on the hip,
fore sewing will prevent any difference of length its amount depending upon the form of the skirt,
from shewing itself in the course of wear : and
when stretching can be accom and whether the coat is to button or not. To meet
plished without the use of an the requirements of the hip, the more drapery there
iron it is so much the better, is in a skirt the less fullness is necessary, while a
flat skirt will require more fullness. In sewing
the iron having a tendency to across the waist, sewing in the outlet at the side
harden thematerialby drying it. body should be carefully avoided, both because it
38 . — Wenow come to sew produces an inequality and helps to tie , at a part
ing on the lapel, and on this oc where there should be perfect freedom . If there is
casion we assume that our coat a wheel piece to the skirt, it can be sewn to at any
has no cuts either in breast or time before using the first iron ; if not too large it
gorge. In the first place parti may be seamed, but when it exceeds a moderate
cular attention must be paid to size it should be stoated , as seaming does not lay so
keeping both lapels the same flat and is more liable to rise.
length ; any difference cannot
afterwards be either remedied 40 . — Having seamed the waist across, rub open
or corrected. It is by nomeans with the finger and thumb about two inchesbehind,
an uncommon error to believe, then take a strip of linen , sufficiently wide to sew
that extra length can be over in with the plait pocket and to double over with
come by drawing-in with the the plait,and letting it rise about three quarters of
stay - tape , and so far as length an inch, sew it privately on the waist seam and
is concerned it can , but the form down that portion of the skirt that will form the
of the lapel becomes altered , under part of the plait, keeping it just so tight as
and drawing in on the edge will will permit of the round being pressed back over
not correct any increase of length the hip and leave the line of the plait straight.
that has been imparted down 41. - It is necessary here that we should say a
the seam , which will become few words upon the use of linen , as, from a want of
loose if the edge is drawn in too proper attention to its nature, we have seen other
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 23
wise good tailoring spoilt. It is an invariable prac- the binding and felling in of the two sides of the
tice in trimming every garment to put in a stripe pocket are done according to these directions, the
of linen cut across the piece, so that its longest edge pocket mouth will never open, neither will there be
— which is the one used , is the cross way, or woof | any occasion to baste it ; indeed , to our mind, there
of the material, which always stretches. Therefore is nothing more ridiculous than basting a pocket
each strip, as it is cut off, should be well stretched mouth to keep it close, for, if the pocketis properly
before being used ; if not, it will stretch under the put in it is unnecessary ,and if it is not, the basting
iron , and so cause either blistering or unsteadyness. | is useless. After the pocket is felled -in , put on the
It is sometimes the practice, although a very bad back stays, the one behind so as to come into the
one, to use linen instead of stay tape for a la pel scye, the front one to reach an inch and a half at
edge, in which case, if the linen is not stretched be least above the pocket,and both so that they will
fore sewing on, a wobbling or unsteady edge is sure sew in with the latter, then tack the ends with a
to be the result. bar tacking (see par. 9), from which prick round in
the form of a half circle ,
42. - We now proceed to put to the back , in back stitch,and then aboutwith either a side or a
one inch above the ends
doing which, the greatest care should be exercised
to putthem both on the same length , and to keep stitch for about three-quarters of an inch through
the stays, and sew the pocket round with a thick
any easyness or tightness exactly the sameon both . back
It is impossible for us to say with precision what and fore stitch , using thread, whatever may
should be the amount of back that should be kept be thematerial.
on , or how it should be distributed, as in these re 44. - If the pocket is to be back stitched -in , it
spects much depends upon the way a garment is should be done without first cutting through, but
cut and its style ; a round side-seam obviously re- cut through the linen and turn it back half a seam
quiring less to be kept on than a flat one. As a from each side, then fell-too the top half moderately
general rule a back may be put on, in the total, half close to where the pocket mouth is to be cut, keep
an inch long ; put it easy for little more than a ing it slightly round as before directed ; then turn
third of the length of the side-seam from the bot- it over, and back or side stitch along under the fel
tom , then plain for half an inch , and on the re- ling, taking care to catch through the linen. Turn
mainder half an inch, slightly tight. The first ing over again and having run to the facing, baste
portion will admit of the sidebody being stretched on the back of the pocket slightly hollow along the
down in the hollow of the waist, the second portion top, and turning again to the outside, stitch it along
comes on the flattest part of the back , the third the top , preserving such a distance between it and
gives ease over the blade bone,and the slight tight the felling of the top side of the pocket as will
ness at the top secures a clean back -scye. The leave room for comfortably cutting it open , which
portion of linen passed up at the waist must be should notbe done till the forepart is finished ; in
seamed in with the side-seam , and will then require all other respects finish the pocket as directed in
to be notched in to allow it to lay flat when the preceding par. for the bound one.
seam is opened. 45 . - In sewing on the lapel facings, keep them
43. - The body seams being now sewn, thenext i perfectly fair, and, as with the lapel itself, just tight
thing is to piece the facings, put in the breast enough to make a straight seam . Being now ready
pocket, and seam on the lapel facings. Breast for the first press, take a heavy iron slightly burning,
pockets are put in either plain or bound with silk ; and a moderately broad sleeve board , which must
in either case a piece of inen should be basted on not on any account be hollow on the face, then
theback, so as to be one inch wide both above and smooth over the canvas. If there is a cut, press it
below the pocket mouth , and extending the same first, being careful not to rub the iron backwards
over each end ; if bound, seam the edge of thebind and forwards or the sewing will “ grin ,” then , if
ing along top and bottom of the pocket mouth be there is a wheel piece stoated on, press it also ; after
fore cutting, keeping it the slightest degree tight which press the lapel seam ; in doing so lay it flat
along the top edge, then cut and turn the binding and straight on the board with the top towards the
over on to the inside, sewing it down to the linen right hand, in the case of the left, so that the fore
with a private stitch. Then fell-to the top side of part will lay from the worker, and in that of the
the pocket, keeping the sewing on edge slightly right the forepart will lay towardshim . Distribute
round ; run a piece of silk along the under side for down the seam a very little water, then run the iron
a facing, and in felling-to, keep slightly hollow . If close down on each side of the seam , so as to shrink
 24 HOW TO MAKE A

away any loose cloth resulting from the tightseam | keeping the waist straight, when it will at once be
ing , then , without lifting the seam , press it open, seen if the plait hangs fair or not ; if not, adjust
taking care to continue till it is perfectly dry, for if | accordingly.
this is not done, it will undoubtedly “ rise," and no | 48 . - How to baste in the canvas is a matter
amount of subsequent pressing will make it smooth . upon which there is some diversity of opinion , and
Having disposed of the seam , stillkeeping it straight, when any particular way is desired , it of course
press back the round of the breast to abouthalfway must be followed. Our business is to give such
own experience
across, taking care notto stretch either scye or gorge. | directions as both theory and our
After the lapel, press the side seam , laying it down leads us to believe is best. Most undoubtedly, how
with the top to the right hand and so that centre of a canvas is basted in, is of the highest importance
back lays quite straight, run the iron close up to the to the appearance and easy sitting of a coat on the
seam on the back and then press the seam open , shoulders and front. The purpose of the canvas
stretching down on the lower part, and pressing the being to secure a set, and appearance to a coat, as
round into the side body, taking care at the same well as to serve as a sort of generalstay to the fore
timenot to stretch the scye. After the side seam , part, the direction in which the warp and woof run,
press the side body seam , and then the waist, laying is of more consequence than is generally supposed .
the latter quite straight, with the skirt from the It is now not an uncommon practice to baste in a
worker, first running the iron close up to the seam canvas so that the warp runs with the turn, with
on the skirt side, so as to shrink away the fullness, the intention of keeping it steady, but when this is
and then press open the seam . Having now pressed done, in the end, all benefit derived from it is for
open all the seams, shrink back the round of the feited . Instead of on the bias, we get it straight
skirt at the plait, and generally smooth over ; after at gorge, scye and shoulder, which cannot buthave
which press the facing, except the la pel seam , which a detrimental effect on the set and ease of the
is best left till the second press, as the heat of the shoulder, which no amount of notching in can ob
iron is not now sufficient to do it properly . viate. Besides this, we get the canvas on the bias
46 . - In pressing seams, we recommend a very across the lower part of the forepart,where it ought
sparing use ofwater ; somemen , forits distribution, isto tobe button
on the straight, more particularly if the coat
, as the tendency of all biased material
use either a spunge or a damp rag, but we consider
the fingers best, both as taking up less water and is to elongate in the direction in which it is pulled ,
being better able to spread it more gradually, or and to become narrower in width or to gather up.
only to deposit it where it is actually required. An In a biased canvas we also loose the staying effect
excessive use of water is attendant with several it ought to have on the holes. Our first direction
evils ; first, besides loss of time, unnecessarily ex therefore is that the selvage edge of the canvas
hausting the heat of the iron , giving rise to insuffi should run straight down the front of the lapel.
cient pressing, which has a detrimental effect on the For the purpose of basting in , use the sleeve board ,
ultimate finish of the job ; this of course is con and lay the forepart on the canvas with the top of
siderably aggravated when a wet seam is only half lapel to the right hand, and baste from top to bot
pressed. When , however, a wet seam is sufficiently tom just behind the seam , keeping the lapel to the
pressed to dry it, it becomes hard and glossy ,and form it is cut, and slightly tight on the canvas ;
the latter cannot be removed withoutsuch an amountthen allowing the upper part to fall over the end of
of damping as will “ rise " the seam . the board , baste down from about half way up the
forepart, at about two inches back from the seam ,
47. — The first press being finished , the next and baste down again at the distance back that the
step is to baste up the plait; firstmarking a straight
line from the side seam downwards,where it is in canvas is to go. Having now basted in the lower
part, turn the fore part round and baste up from
tended the edge of the plait should be ; then turning
over, lay the skirt and back skirt on the double, the centre of forepart through the middle of the
shoulder, keeping forepart and canvas fair at the
latter uppermost, and having adjusted their relative scye ; this method places the excess of canvas at
position , so that the edge of the plait when turned
over, will lay against the mark on the back skirt, the front of the top of forepart ; to dispose of it,
turn the forepart over and cut the canvas straight
which itmust do without force,— baste down about down just behind the break as far as required to
midway between the mark and edge ; then turn
over and see that the hang is correct. To observe make it lay fair, and also as far as may be neces
sary from the bottom of this, cut towards the front,
this, hold up the forepart, by the back and front, then baste down where cut, and cross-stitch one
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 25

edge of the canvas over the other,which will give The sewing of the lapel seam tight, has a tendency
a degree of firmness that will make it keep its to make the lapel loose on the outside edge, and the
place. working in of the canvas in padding has also a
49. - Having flash -basted the lower part of tendency
the lapel
in the same direction , as well as to stretch
out in breadth . These results require to
lapel seam in the usualmanner, pull out the basting
first put in at the back of the seam , and proceed to be counteracted by the drawing-in , not only to
pad the lapel,-using fine cotton for the purpose , steady
ginal
the edge, but to restore the lapel to its ori
form ; for this latter purpose, we require to
which is a better colour, and is firmer than either force back the stretching out in padding , drawing
silk or twist. To steady the creese edge, a piece of
silk , or other thin firm material, extending about an the lapel in most where the stretching has been
inch behind the break ,may be padded in . In pad greatest, and not to attempt to restore form by a
ding a lapel, it is not required to work in much wider pairing and less drawing-in. If this latter
canvas on the forepart side of the seam , but on the course is followed, instead of a gentle swelling turn
thatwill keep its place, we should get a floppy one
lapel itself it should be freely worked in , and the which the collar cannot command . In sewing on
hand should not be pulled tight. The degree of the stay tape, fell it on both edges, thickest on the
working-in will regulate itself by the manner of outside one. We recommend felling, as having
hulding the work , which should be with the lapel
laying flat upon the knee till about half done; after more command and giving greater firmness. In
putting the tape across the top, carry it just over
which lay the forepart on the knee, with the right the seam and turn the end upwards, leaving about
side uppermost, and finish the padding with the
lapel laying over the finger, the same as in the case an inch hanging loose, so that it can be carried over
the collar seam . As a matter of course, care should
of a collar. A lapel should always be padded fur be taken by the partners to have both lapels the
ther back than it is intended to turn. (For further same length ; to do this there is no difficulty, if our
instruction on Padding, see par. 5.) directions are followed . If the la pels are seamed
50. - Before being used, stay -tape should be on the same length and are afterwards properly
wetted and passed under the iron, which will pre worked, two good workmen would each draw their
ventits either stretching or shrinking. Previous to fronts into the same length withoutmeasuring.
sewing on the tape, the canvas must be carefully 51. - We now proceed to the pleat pocket.
pared away for about a quarter of an inch from Whichever of the partners are first ready, fits the
the edge ; this must be done evenly , and so as to pockets, on the double. For this purpose the skirt
correct any inequality thatmay exist in the run or should be laid flat on the board , with the plait lay
form of the edge of the lapel. It is an important ing in its proper position ; then fit the pocket by
point that no more canvas should be pared from laying the material doubled breadthways, in the
the edge than the quantity intended to be pared position it is to occupy with the woof double edge
off ; as the stitching of the edge must be close up downwards, at the proper distance up from the bot
to the tape, and the tape itself should only be edge tom , which will vary according to the length of the
and edge with the canvas. If either of these con skirt. Supposing the length of skirt will admit,the
ditions are not complied with , not only a loose edge the pocket mouth should be nine inches long, and
will be the result, but all thatappearance of sinking its depth below that, six inches, or fifteen inches in
of the stitching which constitutes its beauty will be all ; but however short a skirt may be, the pocket
lost. The degree of tightness with which the tape mouth should notbe less than eight inches. Having
should be put on,entirely dependsupon the original marked and cut the sewing on edge of the pocket,
shape of the lapel, and the ultimate form the turn in fitting it to the edge of the back, let any extra
is to assume ; but in an ordinary frock, and lapel of over its proper depth pass upwards ; notch in where
the form given , with which we are now dealing, it is to sew to the top of the plait, and again at the
the edge should only be just steadied below the distance down the length that its mouth is to be,
point where it is to break (at on the diagram , then separate the pockets, passing one over to the
par. 38), and for about half-way between that point other partner. How a pocket should be put in de
and the first hole on the turn, then slightly tighten pends upon whether the skirt is lined through or
to a little above where the top hole will be : above not ; we must, therefore, give directions for both
that, and across the top quite fair. So that the ways, taking first that for a skirt lined through.
value of these directions may be understood wewill We commence by basting, on the edge of back , a
give the reasons upon which they are founded . strip of linen about three-quarters of an inch wide,
: 26 HOW TO MAKE A

then if the plait of the skirt exceeds thewidth of the back skirt ; then having sewed to the remainder
the back , mark duwn the former at where the edge as above directed , tack the bottom of thepocket
of back comes, down to the length of the pocket through the double stay tape, after which fell the
mouth , then seam the under half of the pocket to edge of the pocket over the tape, and proceed with
that mark, to or from the depth of its mouth , and the remainder as with the other pocket.
notch in the back skirt so that the lower part of the
pocket may lay flat upon it, then seam the upper for54 . — The foreparts themselves being row ready
part of the top-half of pocketto the back skirt, after sides, if second
the press, the next step is to make the
done by land , and to stitch the facings, if
which sew both lower halves of the pocket flat, any padding is put in . Assuming that there is
through to the back skirt and plait of skirt. Still
letting the strip of linen down the pocket lay flat, topadding, it will be put through the shoulder, down
within one-third of the bottom , about two and
take a small piece of double linen , and placing it a half inches back from the front, and as far back
over the bottom of the pocket mouth , tack through wards as will enable it to join the sidebody lining ;
all firmly with double thread, making the tacking from six up to any desired number of straight rows
round in form and not too large, half on the back will be side-stitched straight across. The sides may
skirt and half on the pocket ; now take a piece of of course be stitched to any pattern , but it will be
linen about two inches wide and long enough to sufficient for our purpose to direct that they be
extend from the extreme outside of back skirt to stitched in straight rows, running up and down, at
about one inch over the pocket ; double it, and from a half to three -quarters of an inch apart, and
make the double edge the bottom ; put one end
indeed , when hand sewn there is no better looking
under the inturn of the back skirt, half its breadth
down,allowing the other half to rise above the back side. In no case should a side lining be stitched on
“ tommy," then let the other end pass over on to the wadding alone,but should always have a domett,
top of the pocket and tack or sew through it and or some other soft yieldingmaterial behind.
the back skirt and plait. Now thickly back and 55 . - All being now ready we proceed to put in
fore stitch the bottom of the pocket,and with silk , our second press,first pulling out all the basting,
back stitch the lower part of plait, from bottom of except that down the centre of the shoulders. Be
pocket. gin with a heavy iron at a smart heat, and firstpress
52. - Ourmethod not being universally followed the canvas, laying the forepart on the board with
the lapel towards the worker and moderately wet
we will give the reasons why we think it best ; we all the way down the breadth of the turn . After
direct that the linen down the pocketmouth should being careful that it is laid in its place, let the
be left flat, and that the pocket should be sewn lay weight of the iron first take that portion which is
ing flat at its lower part, instead of being sewn most drawn in , starting from the edge, so as to press
down from the inside and turned over, because back and shrink in at the same time, then shift the
we get less thickness , without any diminution of forepart so as to press the upper and lower portion
strength ,and so expose the skirt facing in wear to of the lapel, and then back to the distance wettea ,
the friction of a less resisting surface. We direct taking care to preserve the form . After finishing
that the double edge of the cotton should be at the the front portion, turn the forepart round and
bottom of the pocket, because it is the strongest, smooth the shoulder and back part of canvas ; by
salvages being often defective and liable to give this means we work the round of breast to where it
way ; it must not, however, be supposed that in should be, and finish the canvas by pressing that
any case we approve of double edges forming the portion. In the course of pressing a canvas, or
bottom of a pocket, as in no case is it so strong as anything else, to which more water is used than is
a sewed edge. necessary to merely damp it, it is a good plan, as
53. — When a skirt is not lined through, the the iron is shifted backwards and forwards, to lift
course of procedure will be different to the one the portion just left by the iron, so as to allow the
above described ; instead of linen down the back steam to pass freely from under. As it is important
skirt edge of pocketmouth we must put stay tape, that the work should be dried in the pressing, this
doubling it back at the bottom to take the tacking practice allows a quantity of moisture to pass off
Having in this case baged the bottom of the pocket, without unnecessarily exhausting the heat of the
leaving as much as will cover the tape and an in iron. Next press the facing lapel seam , following
turn ,double back the top side of the pocketand fell the same course as with the forepart one (see par.
it down the length of the opening to the edge of 45), and then the pocket, to properly effect which,
 _ _ _ __

SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 27

lay skirt and back skirt on the double with the the appearance of the lapel; generally the third and
latter undermost, and so press, smoothing the round fourth are the better for being wider apart than the
of the skirt back from the plait, as far as the width others ,as the turn apparently takes up some of the
of the back skirt will allow ; then withdrawing the length ; it should always be a rule not to put the
latter from underneath, continue the smoothing of top hole too near the top of the lapel, but to place
the skirt all over, after which smooth the pocketby | it about as far down as the other holes are a part.
itself, next lay it with the plait in its proper posi After marking the holes,mark the buttons ; then in
tion and smooth again on the top of the skirt, then the case of the three lower ones, laying the front on
with plait laying in its proper place dead press the the knee, with a chalked thread draw a line across ;
hip stay ; this will give the plait its proper set,and draw a line for the top hole running nearly, but a
bind as it were together all the parts meeting there. little less slant, in the same direction as the top of
The side and waist seams may now be touched up ; la pel, and then a line for the next lower one, slant
then press the side lining, and lastly the facing, ing half between the third and the top ones. On
carefully smoothing it over. these lines cut straight, about half the length of
the holes — the centre portion , then turn the forepart
56 . - The second press being finished , our next over and in the canvas only cut each way to the
step is the basting over, the first thing to turn our full length of the hole , and then from each side pare
hand to being the plait pocket ; it is a common away the least possible quantity of canvas. To
practice to reduce its width at the top by cutting preserve the marks where the buttons are to stand,
off its top corner ; of this we do not approve, as it use wet chalk.
leaves a portion of its width without control. The
best plan is to lay a plait, running to a point down 57. - Much of the course now taken depends
wards, both in the top and under side, and forthin upon how facings and linings are to be arranged ;
ness to lay the one in front of the other ; this not we think it best that the edge of all linings should
only secures a command over the whole breadth of be exposed to wear aslittle as possible, by which we
the pocket, but also gives it greater freedom in its mean that they should be putunder cloth instead of
capacity to contain anything . After laying these over it, and shall direct accordingly. Following
plaits, lay the plait in its proper position, with its this course we should now baste in the side, a shade
top towards the right hand ; baste down behind it easy across ; if not in two pieces, and it should re
through the pocket, then as far along the top of quire it, cut up at bottom for a puff as may be
skirt as the pocket goes and down by the back edge necessary to make it lay smooth ,then pare and thin
of it ; this will hold the pocket in its place until all away its interlining at the side seamn , and softly
the sewing and tackings are in the skirt, then pare serge the one to the other and baste the silk down
the top of the pocket even with the lower half of ready for felling on the edge of the inside-half of
the waist seam , and taking a good hold , serge, but the seam . Now baste on the back piece, just wide
not too tight, the edges of the pocket and seam to enough to cover the hip stay, if the skirt is lined
gether. Now baste to the canvas a double linen through long enough to come slightly over the
button stay that will take the three bottom buttons; pocket, but if the skirt is only half-lined, then it
we prefer not to baste on this stay till after the must be long enough to go across the top of the
canvas is pressed , so that it should not run the risk pocket, or to meet the lining as may be necessary.
of being weakened by too hot an iron . We now Now baste on the skirt lining, keeping it a little
mark the holes, three below and two on the turn fuller than the skirt across the top, and then if the
going upon the assumption that our garment is to | skirt is lined through , back and fore stitch on the
button, with a moderately short turn, reserving for wheel piece on back part of lining ; we leave this
after consideration those worn open , with a longer till the basting over so as to cut the material to the
turn . According to present practice,it is not necesbest advantage; baste round ready for felling,turn
sary that the holes should be at equal distances ing the cloth down the front over the lining. Keep
apart, having therefore fixed the point, s, atwhich the lining abouthalf an inch from the bottom , leav
the lapel is to break ,we mark the three bottom ones ing it open about three inches behind , for which
at equal distances, keeping the bottom one a quarter distance turn inward and hem inside thin . Wenow
of an inch above the seam ; we do this because the . proceed to baste over the breast facing ; in the first
hole itself will be stronger there than in the seam , place carefully baste the one lapel seam on the top
and will also be less exposed to wear ; the two top | of the other ; this is required for two reasons, first,
ones are to be in such positions as will best answer to do anything else would alter the intended ap
 28 HOW TO MAKE A

pearance of the lapel ; and secondly, it will really ance. Such being the case, we should fell the in
press thinner with the seams one on the other than turn of front on the skirt lining with the stitch
if wholly or partially aside of each other, as a marked C in par. 6,beginning from the end furthest
greater power of compression is brought to bear in from the worker, after which stitch down the facing
the one case than the other. After basting down, across the bottom , and up the side, in doing which ,
turn back the facing and flash -baste the seam down either the side or back -stitch can be used . We
to the canvas ; then turn down again , and holding prefer the side-stitch as being cleaner. In felling
the front in the form it is to turn , baste the facing in the linings of side and skirt, use the stitch
down moderately thick and near the edge, keeping marked A in par. 6, in doing which it is best to
it a shade easy, leaving the edge without being keep a portion of the job doubled under the part
serged over, as being free allows the worker in stitch being felled. The back of the skirt lining and side
ing more freedom to regulate the material ; then , lining at side seam should run as nearly as possible
still preserving the intended form , baste the facing | in a straight line,and take particular care, whatever
at the gorge back from the lapel, a distance of about plan may be followed in sewing in the facings and
three inches, from which straight down at the back linings, that all parts have a fair and even run , as
of the turn to the forepart. Now , if there is any there is nothing so unsightly and careless looking
padding in the shoulder, turn the facing back and as uneven facings, linings, or sewings. Stitch the
flash baste the padding,by the turned back edgeon edge thick and even, using a fine needle and silk ,
to the canvas ; then turning back the facing, and the best for this purpose being the silk of a piece
commencing again at the gorge, at the point where of good braid. The present practice in a Superfine
we commenced to baste downwards, continue the Frock is to stitch the lapel only, leaving the front
basting round gorge, across shoulder, round scye, of skirt, and edge of back , “ bluff.” It is believed
down back part and across the bottom of facing. to stand the wear better than if stitched . If there
In doing this, care must be taken that the facing is 1 is no padding in the shoulder, or, if it is sewn to
laying in its proper position , and on the shoulder to the canvas instead of being stitched to the facing,
work in no more than the slightest curl over the it will be necessary to side-stitch the facing and
finger will permit ; and when we have got round | canvas together, round scye and gorge. All that
the scye,we prefer to baste the remaining portion now remains
laying flat on the sleeve board , by which meanswe to complete
are able to keep the facing slightly tight across what is call
without twisting it. Before basting down the back ed “ felling
part of the facing , flash -baste the side to the canvas over " is the
if it reaches so far, if not, fill up the vacancy level ta ckings,
with a piece of wadding sewn on to domett. Now which should
baste each side of the cuts where the holes are to be, first :
be, pare round the scye, and the edges of all parts across from
to be sewn : then pare the canvas about two seams where each of
breadth away from the front of the scye running thethree low
off to nothing towards the shoulder , and pare the er buttons
facing and padding to same as shoulder seam of are to stand ,
forepart, leaving the canvas over it, and then pare each about
the padding off a seam ; and having cut the bogie, half an inch long ; second , one at bottom of
sideseam running slantways equally between waist
which we prefer to be single, sew the shoulder and plait ; third , one running in the direction of
seam ; then serge the edge of bogie to the padding, about one inch from the plait,'and fourth one
and stitch through facing, bogie and canvas ; then and
about an inch long running down from the side
thickly cross-stitch the canvas to the padding round body seam , or at front end of top of pocket. The
the scye. annexed diagram will illustrate the tackings. After
58 .- In these directions we have followed a set the last tacking is in, lightly stitch the skirt lining
course, which admits of variation according to fancy across the top to the pocket.
or necessity ; as for example , the linings can be 59. - Wenow come to putting in the holes, for
felled over the cloth, instead of the cloth being the cutting and formation of the stitch of which
felled or stitched over the linings; still we think instructions are given in par. 10, but for the further
the firstmethod is best, both for wear and appear carrying out of these we will now give directions
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT . 29

applicable to the garment in hand. For the narrow halve the scye from the centre of the back pitch, a
description of hole now worn , the choice of twist is traditional practice that came to us from a time
an important matter, a fine thread being generally when there were fewer varieties of style than now ;
preferred. Butalthough a hole is narrow , it ought but it is obvious that just as the back scye is cut
not to be insignificant in appearance, and its pearl high or low , so would this plan shift the position of
ought to have a look of freedom ; with very fine the fore-arm up or down, while at the same time it
twist this cannot be accomplished , as it is necessary is equally obvious that it ought to be a fixture. In
to work the hole too thick , giving a degree of hard the absence of instruction , the proper pitch of fore
ness resulting in a too compact appearance. A soft arm may be readily obtained by laying the shoulder
and stouter twist, reduced to a finer thread by draw on the back of the hand and holding it up , when its
ing out one of its strands will be found to answer exact position can be found , and a mark placed at
the purpose much better. Following our instruc it, which should be with pipe-clay, as in no case
tions in par. 10, proceed to work the hole, commen should the front of the scye be notched. Having
cing by barring once. Put the needle in well back fixed the position of the fore -arm , that of the back
at every stitch , towards the root of theprevious one, arm is entirely a question of style, but generally
and in drawing out lay the stitch well forward, the | may be fixed at one- third of the width of the back
object being to lay an elongated pearl sideways, pitch from the shoulder seam . Before commencing
along the edge of the hole, which , in the “ biting to sew in the sleeves, we recommend that a narrow
up " admits of being still further flattened . Allthis strip or bias silk should be loosely basted in the
refers to the lapel holes only ; for the bottom ones, front of scye, which would effectually prevent its
we should use the same twist, bar the hole twice, splitting . An important caution required to be
and work in the same style, not slanting the stitch given as regards putting in sleeves is never to take
quite so much, but keeping it so close behind the large seams, for under that operation the scye is
barring as will enable it to bite up narrow ; we increased in size and the sleeve diminished, which
shall thus get strength and uniformity of appear adds nothing to the ease of the coat, and often spoils
ance, the difference being that the bottom holes are the fit,without the source being suspected. How a
closer and stouter looking on the edges. All that sleeve should be put in , often depends upon the cut
we require to do now here is to say a few words of the garment ; as a rule, the fullness should be
upon “ biting -up," an operation of considerable deli | spread between the forearm and about two inches
cacy, upon which much of the appearance of a hole from the shoulder seam , but within one inch of the
depends. Biting-up is accomplished by laying the forearm very little should be kept on ,and most of
hole lengthways along the top of the forefinger of it rather forward than towards the back . At the
the left hand, at the same time holding the front of back scye the sleeve should be kept the least trifle
it betweeu the middle finger and thumb of the right easy , and at the sidebody the seam should be sewn
hand, and then gradually bringing each part of it very tight, so as to keep in both sleeve and side
between two of the front teeth, which involves a body, rather than to keep the sleeve tight on the
shifting of the hole along the finger, with which, in sidebody. Before pressing, slightly notch out the
in the case oflapel holes, the cloth should be crowded pipes of fullness gathered in sewing in , then taking
behind and over both sides of the hole, so that when a sharp, but not burning iron , lay the sleeve head
it is pressed only the pearl will be seen ; in the case on the small end of the sleeve-board, shrink away
of the lower holes, which are worked broader, the the fullness ; and then open the seam withoutlift
cloth should not be bit so much over, but be more ing, and so work all round the scye ; then press the
confined to crowding it up behind the stitches. shoulder seam and the bogie. Now , with thread ,
During biting-up a bodkin should be held in the thickly forestitch the facing to the sleeve side of
right hand ready to straighten any part that may be the seam , except at the front of scye, where it
crooked, or to close the end or any other open part. should be half-back stitched . The reasons why we
So as to secure the full benefit of biting-up it should prefer this mode of fastening the facing round the
be done immediately before pressing. scye, is to secure firmness and freedom ; serging, if
60. – Our next step is putting in the sleeves, tight, contracts the scye, and if loose, permits the
and the first thing in connexion with them is the facing to shift , a forestitch can be done close up to
pitch of fore-arm ; this is almost universally left to the seam , holding the facing firmly in its place, and
the judgment of the operative, cutters apparently does not contract the scye ; this method has also
having an objection to commit themselves by giving the further advantage of permitting that portion of
any directions whatever. The usual method is to the facing coming into the scye being pared away
 30 HOW TO MAKE A

close up to the sewing fastening it round, thus con get as wet as damp rags ought to be. After the
siderably adding to its ease. After fastening round , turn , press the lower part of the lapel, then the
turn the sleeve head back , and to the under side of sleeve-head, shoulder and side-seam , in doing which
the seam , forestitch a piece of Domett or thin the greatest care must be used , so as to keep them
Tweed ; if wadding is to put in the top , it should both in their proper form , and not to press the
be firmly sewn down to the sleeve lining, and not round of the latter into the centre of the back , in
loosely serged to the seam . Puffs should never be stead of into the sidebody, as such a practice is not
put in a facing at the scye, as they tend to make only unfair towards the collar man, but it is scarcely
the forepart split, and the facing can always be possible afterwards for him to get it into its proper
stretched to the required extent. We are now place. Now press the waist, the front of skirt, and
ready to fell round the scye, which should be done the back skirt, after doing which we are ready for
with the stitch C , par. 6 . The felling should be damping ; here we can appropriately give a little
done thick , with a small grip ; the stitches of equal advice upon that often carelessly performed opera
length , and the hand no more than pulled home, so tion. It is commonly supposed any iron will do
that the scye can be stretched without any of the for that, and very little attention is paid to the
sewing giving way . quality and condition of the damp rag. A good
61. – We have now reached the pressing off of damp rag ought to be of medium substance, and
the forepart,which should commence with the same not too new ; it ought to be used merely damp, not
iron as that used to open the sleeve head , as after wet, and the iron , though not hot, ought to be suffi
ciently so to drive a steam into the cloth that will
doing so , a good heat remains ; this should be uti dry
lised by pressing the inside, and the holes. This it. Ignorant snobs will often use a thin wet
latter is a delicate operation, upon which their ap rag and a nearly cold iron, which merely deposits a
pearance and closeness much depends ; within our puddle on the surface, instead of leaving behind it
recollection , closeness was unmistakeably secured that indefinable beautiful glossy smoothness charac
by sewing them up on the wrong side ; a good teristic of the work of a thorough tradesman. To
tailor will now secure that object with his teeth receive an equal appearance and proper finish, the
and iron, and leave his holes with a better appear foreparts should be damped all over,and lastly, the
ance than they had in the good old days of fudging, sleeve heads and skirt linings should be smoothed
rantering, and back -stitching. The way to secure so as to remove any unsightly creases that may
a handsome close hole is , as already directed , to exist.
bite it up immediately before pressing, then lay it 62. - The next thing is to sew on the buttons,
carefully on the round edge of the broad end of the using a twisted double thread , putting in from eight
sleeve-board , and, with a thin piece of linen over it, , to ten stitches,not baged ,but right through facings
give it a good hard press ; a hole so treated can and all, except the two top ones, which may be
scarcely be pulled open , as, being pressed on the bagged on. Buttonsmust be put on smoothly so
round, when the lapel is lain flat, the two edges as not to drag any portion of the surface,and neatly
adhere firmly together. With the same iron also enough not to show unsightly stitches on the wrong
press into the line of the stitching of the lapel a side. After putting in a sufficient number of
linen thread , which will improve its appearance stitches into the three lower buttons, pull them well
and help to make the edge thin. Supposing we are up and twist the thread three or four times round
starting with the second iron , or the pressing off the stitches, so as to form a neck ; the two top ,
proper, great care must be taken that it is not hot | and the hip buttons should be sewn close down.
enough to scorch , as we commence with the lapel
on the turn . In pressing off, the lapel should never 63.- The last thing in finishing the foreparts is
be pressed on the under side, as doing so would to pare the edge,which should be done evenly, and
shrink the material on the turn and spoil it ; after as close to the stitching as will leave it sufficient
the latter has been thoroughly pressed , it may be hold ,which depends upon the quality of the cloth
smoothed on the other side with a dry iron, but and thickness of the sewing . Although we have
nothing more. Observe also , that in pressing a reserved the paring till the last, it is a good plan to
lapel, a press cloth should not be used , as with it do it before damping , and afterwards to shave off
good pressing can never be effected ; by its means any roughness with the small cuts, for after that it
a smooth surface is obtained in a short time with is seldom that an edge ever gets rough again .
little labour, but with it, it is impossible to press 64. – Wenow come to the joining,which finally
either flat or dry , indeed press cloths in use often completes the body ready for the collarman ; this
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT . 31

does not call for any particular dircction, except upon the figure. To make our meaning clear, we
that the back seam should be sewn fair and even , give figures A , B, and C , which respectively repre
and moderately tight,and as to the form of tacking. sent a front outline of the neck and shoulders, a
Of the latter there are two descriptions ; the one side section, and a cross section of the same. It is
consisting of two straight prickings across the obvious that the two first, in their entirety, are ab
top and three downward prickings, of which we solutely fixed, and that the space occupied by the
approve, in the form represented by the diagram , neck in the third, is a shifting form and quantity,
par. 58 ; this form of tacking is strongest and neat exactly to the extent of the perpendicular space
est, and at the same time it firmly upholds the over within which we lower and heighten a garment in
and underlay of the back , it also allowsmore free the neck , or the stand of the collar we put on it.
dom with less strain when the backs are opened in At the same time it must be borne in mind, that if
the act of sitting. Looking at the tacking complete, two coats were made for the same person ,both to
the value of our direction in par. 35 for turning in be the sameheight in the neck when finished , and
the under back will be at once apparent. one being cut with a low neck requiring a high
65 . — The forepart men have now finished their stand , and the other with a high neck requiring a
work , and the coat is ready to be handed over to low stand, the collars would have to be differently
the collar man , to put on his collar and finish off. cut and made up ; the reason will become apparent
In the usualway, his collar will not only be ready as we proceed . As a matter of external appear
for going on, but he will have the succeeding job ance it would be difficult to decide where the neck
fitted and ready for his partners to begin. We commences ; for our purpose, it is sufficient to know
must, however, suppose the coat put carefully aside that in all other directions except at the back it
for a little till we go through the operation of rises with a curve from the shoulders and diminishes
making the collar. Although we are at present in size as it increases in altitude. On forming the
dealing with a dress frock only, the instructions keepgorge and making a collar, we have therefore to
connected therewith embody principles that will before us, that below the line of the seam we
serve us in connection with the collars of other gar have to do with an increasing surface, and above it
ments. We shall go more deeply into the matter a decreasing one ; to meet the former we stretch
of collars than merely the making , as, for the ac the gorge in the hollow , the latter is supposed to be
complishment of the desired result, there is no met by a short top edge. The extent to which
either of these is carried depends in the first place
upon the degree of straightness with which the gar
ment is cut, and secondly , its comparative height
in the neck and the height of the stand collar. On
referring to the sectional figure B, it will be seen
that the neck does not rise from the body at one
level all round — that it slants down in front. There
fore all gorges require to be cut lower in front than
behind, and assumes, when laid flat down, an elon
gated appearance,but which, when on the body is
only a downward slant. A properly cut coat placed
on the body will fit its hemispherine form and may
be entirely thrown out of its place by a badly con
structed collar, particularly a short one. It is pos
sible, however, for a collar to be put long on and
yet be too short. Paradoxical as this may appear,
it is of constant occurrence, and is caused by the
way in which puffs are taken out in the gorge.
branch of the trade in which it is so essential that 66 . - Upon the practice of taking out puffs we
cutting and making should go hand in hand. The shall not express an opinion, as it is not within our
first thing to be considered is the form of that por province to do so, but if puffs are taken out we
tion of the figure upon which the collar has to set ; have no hesitation in saying that they ought to be
here “ fit ” is not the proper word to express our fish shaped, taking less out at the top than at the
meaning, the collar must fit the gorge of the gar middle,and notmore, as is the common practice.
ment, and the whole must set with ease and grace | If a puff is taken out in the shape of a V it cannot
 32 HOW TO MAKE A

do otherwise than bave a detrimental influence on and the coat on the body, besides a totaldestruction
of anything like style. It is obvious that the lower
the collar and lapel of a coat. For as these have to
turn back over the chest and shoulders, length is cut gorge gives greater working space between A
required on their outer edge, and length right away and B, not only allowing a more graceful collar
from what we call the crease edge. being cut, but also one that will sit better on the
garment and the figure allowing the gorge to be
67. - In connection with the method to be fol stretched lower down on the neck, and a little fur
lowed in fitting a collar, we must also speak of the ther forward
form of gorge, for although in all cases the collar than if it had been cut higher. The
must fit the gorge from the points A and C in fol importance of this will be at once seen by a refer
lowing diagram , the degree to which the gorge is ence to the dotted marks on figures A and B , para
graph 65 ; in the line of those marks
slightly stretched gorge
the for of
which
cut high or low from A forward has a most impor- of a coat should be ,
purpose the gorge should just about clear
the collar bone. Many no doubt, even
amongst our youngest readers, have seen
coats, the collars of which, if the shoulder is
laid on the hand , appear as if they were
hung on hinges, swinging loosely back
wards and forwards between the space A
and B ; this is the result of a high cut
gorge, and it is the same when on. It is
in coats so cut that we see the appearance
of the front hanging loose from the same
place, which it will notkeep unless actually
buttoned .
68. - In fitting a collar the first thing
to consider is the point at which it is to
button or turn ,and the width of the break ;
we suppose that this coat is to turn two
holes, and to have an ordinary break. We
first lay our lapel too, as conveniently close
at the top as we can , and forming an idea
where the turn will commence, as at E,we
then lay a straight edge so that we can
draw a line from that point to F , which
we continue on to G ; this line constitutes
our crease edge, from which we work both
stand and fall. It must not, however, be
supposed that this crease edge is in any
way a fixture, so as that in all cases it
would occupy the same relative position
on lapel, forepart, and collar, for justas the
buttoning point is shifted and the height
of the stand varied , so will the position of
the crease edge change. Let us suppose for
example that in the present case we had
tant influence on fit, sit, and style of a collar, when three holes on the turn instead of two, it would
it comes to be placed on the body. The gorge in necessarily follow that the line E G would fall
the diagram is drawn at the correct degree of incli further back at F, and that consequently , height
nation for a Frock coat, and we call the student's of stand remaining the same, there would be less
attention to the space between A and B . If the spring on the shoulder, from A backwards, as
gorge is cut higher from A, at any degree of incli continuing the line E F straight on, it would
nation towards D , the result would be a most detri- | rise higher at G . Reverse the process, and sup
mental effect on the fit of the collar to the garment pose we were to have but one hole on the turn ,
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 33
then the line E G would be further forward at F , | rather keep its place, if it is cut to wool up. An
and we should get more spring at the shoulder, other reason why we recommend all collar linings
material, is because
which would also start from a point towards B . to be cut the cross way of themost
We do not here speak of any change that it might in that direction it possesses elasticity, and is
be necessary to make in the front of forepart, but therefore capable of beingmore easily worked . We
simply indicate the changes thatmust be made in should also advise, whenever possible , that a collar
the run of the crease edge, which will be more lining should be cut whole ; piecing interferes with
clearly understood as we proceed with different de stretching and shrinking, and in cloths and fine
scriptions of collars. At present we only direct goods is liable to shew a mark on the outside,which
attention to it to show that there cannot be any rule cannot be removed without an injurious amount of
followed , giving any definite amount of spring at damping.
the shoulder, and that such is not necessary, as it 70 .— Having cut the collar lining,seam it up
must always vary according to the description of the centre, - not stoat it, the reason for which is,
collar. Having fixed the crease edge, measure with that it will be firmer and press better. Only open
great care, the length of the collar from F back the seam , do not smooth over the collar lining,as
wards, allowing the desired amountof length . This doing so shrinks and hardens it. Our collar is now
is a pointwhich we consider of the first importance, ready to be basted on to the interlining, which is
and is one which does not receive the attention it now usually canvas, but whatever the material, it
deserves. The slightest glance at our diagram will ought to be on the bias ; if canvas, it must be .
show that any shifting of the collar, either back Before using, let it be thoroughly wetted and laid
wards or forwards will disturb the relative run of apart to dry of itself — not by the iron . Whatever
the lines of collar and gorge, and consequently de the interlining may be, let the warp of the two
stroying both the fit and the style of the collar ; in halves run the same way, with the straight thread
fact we consider that in the finished garment the along the break portion of the sewing on edge of
line E G should exist in the same unbroken order collar; if this is not attended to , it will be impos
as itdoes in fitting the collar, to secure which both sible to make up the two ends alike, or by any other
collar and gorge should be slightly cut in at F, method to secure a command of the collar over the
which cuts should be kept together in sewing on turn of the forepart. If, therefore, an interlining is
the collar. Forward from F, slightly longer than cut from single width material, itwill be necessary
to the front of the gorge will be sufficient ; after the to cut it across the centre and turn one half over so
length , mark the fall of the collar,allowing slightly as to bring the warp of both fronts to run alike ;
more for the convenience of working. then serge or run the interlining together and baste
the collar lining fair upon it, and stitch moderately
69 . - Supposing we have provided ourselves thick along the line of the crease edge. We advise
with a suitable pattern, the next step is to cut the that the stand should be side-stitched in rows, as
inside collar. For taking this out of the material, making it at the same time firm and moderately
one general rule is applicable in all cases, Cloth or elastic ; after stitching the stand, pad the fall ac
Tweed , wool or no wool, always let the collar lining
be exactly the cross way of the stuff : if there is a cording to directions in par. 5, just keeping the
wool always let it run down. Upon either of these interlining easy on the collar lining at the ends,
points many are not very particular, and somemay both in width and length .
ask the question : Is it of any consequence which 71. - Having now got our collar the length of
way the wool runs ? To be convinced of its im being stitched and padded, our next process is the
portance, we have only to take a piece of cloth and pressing, which requires to be done with great care,
double itlengthways,between the thumb and finger, and for which no specific directions can be given ,
to find that one way the two surfaces will easily except that it should be pressed into the desired
run one over the other, but that the reverse way shape, and till it is thoroughly dry. It will be
they arescarcely moveable. If a collar lining is cut found that making it ready for this stage, in what
to wool down, as a matter of course, its fall portion , we may term the rough , will have a material influ
when the collar is finished , wools up. These are ence on its finished appearance, the shrunk butnot
the conditions under which a collar is kept from smoothed interlining , and the unsmoothed collar
riding up , which it will most certainly do if it is lining will give such a degree of curl to the finished
cut to wool the contrary way. No skill of either collar as will prevent its turning the wrong way
cutting or making can ever make a collar fit, or an obstinate tendency with many bad collars.
 34 HOW TO MAKE A

72. - Our collar being pressed for covering, the not to be bound or stitched on the edge : having
iron has still got a good heat in it which we may done so, cut to the mark , with the exception of
want. Before however proceeding further, the out giving the least possible round towards the front.
side, if it is not velvet,should be well smoothed on Having done this, serge the edge of the outside to
the double, and with one side alternately under the the edge of the interlining of collar, which would
other. This may appear of little importance, but it require to have been previously cut away from the
is one upon which the lasting appearance of a collar edge, beginning at about one inch from centre to
much depends,for the reason, thatan outside should wards the righthalf, serge the left half first,keep
be put on as short as is consistent with preservation ing the outside a little tight till past the break,and
of form ; it is therefore desirable to shrink it as from the break forward keep the outside the least
much as possible, and a piece of cloth laid under thing easy . After having got the left side serged
another will shrink more under the iron than if on , it will be easy to make the right the same, and
smoothed by itself. This admits of easy proof, by then to fell or stitch the lining on to the outside.
cutting two pieces of the same size and smoothing After which , do not press the edge on the inside
them on the double, it will be found that the under before turning it over, but run the iron along it
piece is less than the upper, and that by reversing from the outside,then regularly baste it over along
the process they will be each reduced to the same the crease edge and stretch the inside before stitch
dimensions. While the iron is still at his side the ing it along ; having made up the ends give it a
maker should try on his collar, which ought to be good press, and this make of collar is ready for
done with great care. Having first stretched the going on . If a collar has to be stitched raw on the
gorge in the hollow , baste the collar on to the left edge after the outside is basted on, this latter ope
ration requires to be done with great care , and as
forepart, leaving about half an inch of its length much nicety as in the other case ; commence to
over behind, for as our present object is only to fit
the front, it is best not to be encumbered with too baste along the crease edge frem the centre,slightly
much length on the crease edge ; at the sametime, stretching the outside, and having done this, baist
however, keep on a reasonable quantity , or the along the fall, letting the collar curl over the fingers
collar will be too short when we come to finally as you proceed ; then make your edge and finish as
before. If the outside is of velvet, to be got smooth
put it on. If, in the first instance, our instructions
have been followed and the collar carefully fitted mendon it would require stretching ; we would recom
and properly sewn and pressed , it will fit exactly ; that it should be cut through the middle, and
if the edges are basted down and stoated , the seam
as we cannot, however, secure ourselves against ac would be barely visible. But the best method of
cidents ,and as the making up of the forepart has dealing with velvet is to cut it on the double , in
some effect, it is best to provide against contin
gencies, and in all cases try on. Upon doing so it stead
ends
of across the piece ; by doing so , the two
can be made the same way of the material
may be found that the crease edge is either too far
back , or too forward, and just as it is, so has the and so produce a better fitting and more lasting
collar.
collar been cut, or made up too long or too short
behind the break ,and the hot iron comes into re 74 . - We havenow arrived at the putting on of
quisition to form a new crease edge ; beyond that
it will also be necessary to alter the sewing on edge the collar and pressing off,which is a work of such
by making it rounder in front of break if it is too extreme delicacy in all its details, thatlike all things
long, or by straightening it if too short, by taking into which a workman has to infuse an indefinable
a piece off the round where the crease edge comes, something beyond mere mechanical performance,it
is a difficult, if not an impossible , task to lay down
running off to nothing towards both the back and
the front. Another object in basting on a collar, directions that would be absolutely precise in their
is to mark the front so as to correspond with the application. In tailoring, so much depends upon
lapel and turn of the forepart according to the style tion of the whole, separate
the doing of each
requiring
part towards the perfec
perhaps small,but con
required. stant variation , according to the circumstances of
73. - Supposing the collar to be pared and each case , that our instructions can only be looked
shaped quite ready for covering, lay the outside on upon as enunciations, in many particulars, of gene
the sleeve board with its face downwards, and lay ral principles only, although it is our endeavour to
ing the collar on it,mark the lower edge exactly to make them as complete as possible. Before pro
correspond with that of the collar- that is, if it is ceeding any further,the collar man should examine
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 35

the body of the coat to see in the first place that very short stitches. First draw the right front,
the two foreparts are made up alike and properly beginning at the end furthest from the lapel, and
finished. After which he should examine the at the finish , prick all the parts firmly together ;
shoulder seams and joinings, to see that they are then turn over to the underside and bind the lapel
correct, as any irregularity, or difference, will not and collar together, by running the needle back
only disturb the fit of the collar, but, if discovered, wards and forwards several times through both,
lead to the " job " coming back. All being right, forming what we may call an invisible barring.
the next thing is to pare the canvas, facings, & c., | This method is quite as strong, and much cleaner
round the gorge ; in front, as far back as a little than the common practice of sewing over and over
beyond the turn , the facing should pass up a little, on the outside. Now , having first pared away the
the canvas itself being cut level with the forepart : inside of the collar, so as just to cover the serging
in the hollow of gorge the canvas and facing should up of the gorge, fell alongside of the collar, begin
pass up about a quarter of an inch, and the bogie ) ning from the drawing in of the right front, and
pared level with back across the top ; the canvas finish by drawing the left front ; then, if required ,
should be cut down about an inch in the hollow in put on a hanger, a little long, and on the collar
two places, and the padding, if any, to the same seam so that it will catch both back and collar,
extent between the two cuts in the canvas, these
will give elasticity to the shoulder ; after paring, 76 . - Passing now to the pressing off of the
moderately stretch the gorge in the hollow . coat little remains to be said , except that as this
garment is made in parts, no matter how evenly
75 . - We now commence to sew on the collar : the men employed in making it may work together,
in all coats not made constantly to button up, there they can scarcely avoid some little differences of
is commonly an ugly catch in front, which many appearance, which it ought to be the care of the
endeavour to remedy by cutting their collar a trifle collar man to equalise in the pressing off. To ac
straight from the break forward , a remedy attended complish this he should with one iron press the
with the result of making it swing ; the method shoulders, sleeve heads,back and sideseams, mould
we find successful is, to fit the collar exactly to the ing the whole into one harmonious form ; then with
gorge, and in the sewing on to keep the collar the a second iron press the collar and la pels, still keep
least thing full for about half an inch from the ing uniformity between the two fronts in view . In
front ; this in no way affects theappearance beyond damping off, what we have previously said on the
removing the defect. Still, following out our prin subject should be carefully attended to, being care
ciple, after sewing the collar on, press the seam and ful not to use too thin or too wet a rag, or too cold
n oitbpeotu mn with the thumb as we have known or tuo hot an iron , in fact, avoid boiling, and do not
many “ snobs" do ; this latter course is objection indulge in too much baking, for although a garment,
able,as tending to preventelasticity being preserved after pressing, is the better of being held at the
in serging up the neck by precluding the workman stove for a very short time,if it is boiled in damping
from seeing what he is about. In serging up the and afterwards and dried at the stove, it will be dis
neck do it thickly and be careful not to tie it in any torted in form deficient in beauty of finish .
way in the hollow or across the back : in front it The last thing to do is to cut the name off the bot
is best to draw the edges of the forepart canvas and tom of the ticket and sew it under the bogie, under
interlining of collar together, with the stitch de a cross-stitch,without catching hold of the ticket
scribed in par. 2, which will as firmly join them being the best.
as if they were one piece, then tack the ends of the
77. – Wehave now brought to a conclusion our
staytape, left by the forepart men, over the ends directions
of the seams. Our next step is to turn in the fronts for making a plain Frock Coat ; and hope
preparatory to drawing them , in doing which let that they will be found sufficient to enable any one
the turning in be as small as it can, and right over working at the trade under any other than first-class
the collar seam . Both of these particulars have a conditions to improve themselves. One safe step
most important effect upon the finished appearance towards success which wewould impress upon the
of the garment. Large inturns not only look workman is, to finish as he goes along , that is not
clumsy, but prevent good hard pressing, and if not to leave some defect or uncompleteness to be re
exactly on the seam , the same result follows. In medied or made good at a subsequent stage of his
drawing the fronts use as fine silk as the substance work . Before he covers his collar let him press it
and quality of the material will admit, and take as if no more was to be done to it, the same after
 36 HOW TO MAKE A
it is covered ; also insist upon forepart men finish - | if the work is not finished at each successive step
ing their work and not leaving a half pressed lapel | towards its final completion . Wealso hopethat our
or sleeve top to the embarrassment of the collar labours will prove acceptable to those engaged in the
man. By following this plan , he is always sure of higherbranchesof the trade,as themeansof enabling
what is behind, and has only to look at what he has them to detect errors in making up, and to judge
to do, the final effectofwhich cannot be calculated and appreciate thework of a good tradesman.

EXTRAS AND DEVIATIONS

IN STYLE AND MATERIAL, WHICH MAY BE INTRODUCED INTO A FROCK COAT.

Having given full instructions as to the making baste them back on the sleeves before basting in ;
of a plain superfine Frock, we shall now deal in these precautions will prevent the linings from get
detail, each under its separate head, with the extras ting dirty. In basting to try on, keep all long
and variations that occur in that garment, and stitches on the outside of the coat,as if inside, they
Frock Coats generally. In following this course are liable to catch the fingers, buttons, & c. In
we shall take into account differences of material, basting up the back keep the seam on the outside,
pointing out the modes of making up applicable to as this seam not being opened, it will lay flatter on
each , or where extras may apply to oneand not to the back. The buttons should always be basted on
another. as giving a better idea of appearance, particularly
as regards the hip ones, for length of waist. If
78 . - IF TO TRY ON : Whether a coat is to be there is to be an outside breast pocket the welt
tried on, either half or full-baisted, it should ap should be basted on, and the pleat pockets should
proach as near as possible to the finished garment. be basted on the size, and in the position they will
For full baisting side seams, waists, shoulders, and occupy in the finished garment, so that the true
baisting in of sleeves, silk should be used , cotton
being liable to give way, and thread being abso hang of the pleat may be seen.
lutely non -elastic. For want of this simple pre 79. — IF SIDE-EDGES, they must be made up to
caution it sometimes happens that heavy alterations match the edgeof the back skirt. In making up a
result, to the annoyance and surprise of the cutter, | pleat with side-edges it is a common practice to put
the want of elasticity , in the first place, misleading | linen through them , and not to put any down the
him and causing him to make alterations, which pleat as directed in par. 40 ; but whatever may be
produce defects in the finished garment, calling for done with the side-edge, we consider that the stay
further and opposite ones. Another great source down the pleat should not be omitted, as it com
of alterations after finishing, in full-basted gar mands it better and for a longer distance ; linen in
ments is, that the same amount of stretching and the side-edge, except at the bottom , to take the
shrinking , in its different parts, not having been button , is quite unnecessary if the directions given
done the same as if it was being made,misleads the in par. 40 are followed . Having made the size-edge
cutter. It is a good plan for a workman to keep to the desired length and form , before basting up
a stock of several stitched and padded collars for the pleat, baste it on the back skirt, so that its edge
basters, as it is not a safe course to try on a coat at the top is about a quarter of an inch inside the
without a collar ; nor yet without both sleeves being line (see par. 47) and at the bottom , in relation to
basted in. When the facings are not basted in, it is that line, according as it is desired the side-edge
also a good plan to keep on hand several pairs of should shew , then baste up the pleat and put in the
cotton ones , with the regulation quantity of wad - pocket, sewing the side-edge in with the skirt por
ding in . In basting sleeves for trying on, it is best tion of the pleat. The button at the bottom should
to baste in ,wrong sideout, thetop half linings only ; | be sewn through the side-edge only ; we preferthis
and instead of basting the linings round the scye to to the old and nearly obsolete practice , of tacking
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 37
across the bottom side-edge and setting the button about an inch of the pocket, and laying a stay
through all, which does not add to strength ,and across under tack with the pocket laying each way ;
makes it necessary, in the case of skirts not lined then turn the lower part of the pocket inside out
through, of felling a " thumb piece" on the inside and bag down instead of sewing to the pleat ; then
of the back skirt. lay the pocket in the position it is intended to be,
turn in the bottom edge on the double, and back
80 . - Ir INSIDE PLEAT POCKETS, the staying and stitch it across on the upper side ; put on the hip
basting up should be the same as in the case of out stay, and finish as directed for ordinary pockets in
side ; but in putting in thepocket the upper half of par. 51. Pockets put in this way have greater free
its upper side is sewn through skirt, back skirt,and dom of motion, to meet which that portion of skirt
if any, the side-edge, then a linen staymust be put lining over the pocket must be left open .
down the edge of the top half,which of coursemust 83. - IF THERE IS A SPECTACLE POCKET, it is
be turned in ; then put in the tacking, the same as
for P. P. In basting over the forepart,whether the usually put on the left side, in the samemanner as
skirt is lined through or not, baste a strip of cloth an inside breast. If there is both , the spectacle
about half an inch inside down the edge of the pocket is put about an inch above the otherwith the
pocket, on the top of the skirt lining if any, which front of the two level, the lesser pockethanging at
would expose it to less wear, from the hand going the back of the other.
in and out of the pocket. 84 . - IF THERE IS A POCKET IN THE SKIRT FACING
81. - Ir OUTSIDE BREAST POCKET, it should not it should not be too far forward , it
be put in till after the first press,otherwise it would across, and the top of the welt should be straight
about two inches
interfere with the pressing back of the breast. | below the waist seam . In putting in , first baste a
Having marked its direction and length , baste a piece of linen wide enough to come to the waist,
piece of linen at each end,through which seam with and baste the top side of the pocket on high enough
the welt, the top edge and ends of which must be to come fully above the top of the welt, then baste
made up to correspond with the edges of the coat. linen through the welt and seam through all, now
The welt should be cut the same way of thewool turning back the portion of the pocket above the
or pattern , as the forepart, and double the width it seam , cut the pocket, turn in the welt,and bringing
is intended to be made up, this saves trouble in the upper portion of the pocket through, fell it
marking afterwards, as all that is required when along the top of the welt ; then seam too the under
turning in , is to make the outer edge meet the open half of the pocket, allowing a good inch to pass up,
edge of the seam , which also makes the welt of which turn over the seam and baste along , then put
equal thickness throughout. Instead of felling the on the back stays, the front one so that it will sew
pocket on the welt, we prefer to turn the welt over down on the canvas, and the back one. to take the
the pocket, doubling the edge of the latter under front hip tacking. As these pockets are to hold
the edge of the former ; if the pocket is felled on books and papers, the welt is usually about nine
the welt it will of course be necessary to put a stay inches long, with a hole and button. Care should
under : in putting in the pocket keep in mind the be taken to let the pocket run in its proper direc
direction for inside breast given in par. 43. We tion, straight down with the front, which it will
prefer leaving the tacking of the ends, which should take, even if put in otherwise, to the discomfort of
be made to run at right angles with the seam till the wearer and straining of the tackings.
after the second press, which leaves the canvas at 85. - IF SILK BREAST FACINGS, they may either
liberty to find its proper position. In tacking the be of watered silk , corded silk , or Lamantine, the
ends, the inside one should be put as close to the latter being generally used for frocks, particularly
edge as is consistent with strength , care being taken if of any other material than superfine ; corded silk
to tack in the pocket and the stay of the top edge. is most generally used for what are called Dress
82.- Ir Pleat POCKETS ARE HALF ON THE BACK , Frocks, watered silk being very seldom used in any
in which case they are outside, and the skirt lined description of coat. The mode of procedure in
only half through, the top half of the pocket is making up a coat with silk facings depends upon
first, after the stay is put on as directed in par. 51, how it is intended the facing should be put on,
turned in and felled down the edge of back skirt, whether over the cloth facing or Domett, the former
then turned over and felled a sufficient distance method being seldom followed now , we shall con
back to cover the stay ; then sew down the under fine ourselves to the latter. It will be understood
edge of pocket the length of the tacking, then bag that in this case there are no facings to make, that
 38 HOW TO MAKE A

the silk is put through the shoulder, and below , | part was finished, and with the same iron press the
thatitmeets the sidelining. After the second press sleeveand shoulder seams. The next step is to sew
is in, baste on the lapel facing, which must be regu on the buttons, and baste the bogie to the canvas,
lated in width by wliere it is intended to bring the after which we are ready to baste on the silk facing.
silk , whether to the lapel seam only, or close up to This must be done with great care : the best way
the back of the holes ; the latter being the practice is to lay the forepart on the board, with the front
in good trades, we give an illustration of that style : part laying over the edge from the worker,and then
Then stitch the edge and put in the holes, after run a basting down at the back of the break, and
which take a piece of bias Domett, large enough , behind the buttons, seeing that the silk runs with
when double, to go down the whole length of the the straight thread down the turn of the lapel, and
forepart and two or three inches behind the break, below also as may be convenient : then laying the
forepart on the knee, allow the turn to take its
natural position, baste along top and down the front
to bottom , so that the silk is quite smooth down the
turn, at and just below which it may be a trifle
easy ; then, commencing at from back of turn,
baste round gorge, scye, back part, and bottom of
facing, regulating any extra length behind, so as
not in any way to tie the forepart, keeping it on as
fulness or lying a pleat or pleats. Silk not being so
pliable as cloth, it may sometimes be necessary to
put a puff in the scye. Being basted on, stitch the
silk through bogie and canvas, and fell round the
scye the same as if the facing was cloth. In felling
down the facing in front all above the top hole
should be left free, which willenable the collarman
to press and damp his ends with freedom before
felling down, and to make both the parts exactly
alike at the top. No other descriptions of silk , ex
cept watered and Lamantine,can be pressed without
glossing, and even they are not improved by it ;
hence the necessity of pressing the parts it has to
cover before putting it on. After being finished ,
silk facings may be lightly pressed with a piece of
cloth under the iron .
86 . - IF " Boss " OR DOUBLE EDGE, the lapelmay
be made up in several different ways ; the lapel and
facing may be cut on the single, so that a portion
of the lapel will turn towards the inside below the
turn, and a portion of the la pel facing turn towards
the outside above the turn , and then stoating their
edges together : or both the lapel and its facing
can be cut and basted over in the ordinary manner,
except that below the turn the lapel would be
turned in and the facing pared away and felled on ,
the reverse being the case with the turn ; this is a
process of which we do not approve, as it makes a
then serge the double edge to the edge of the lapel thick clumsy edge. Another method is to cut the
facing, and , if necessary, to make it lay smooth , lapel and facing on the double, and on the double
notch in at the back part, putting separate notches to shrink them into the desired form : whether this
in each single layer ; then flash baste the back part can be done with advantage or not depends upon
to the canvas. Now fell in the skirt, sew the the form of the lapel ; if it is not nearly straight on
shoulder seam , and put in the sleeve. We now the crease edge it is very difficult to make a satis
press and damp the lapel the same as if the fore - factory finish . Another way is to cut the la pels on
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 39
the double, and the edge, and then turned in , then the sleeve be
then between the turned back and felled down close to the top of the
front edges of inturn of the cuff. As regards the collar, when
the upper por- | ready for covering , pare to the correct width and
tion to takeouta length , and at the ends paro away the canvas an
puff, as shewn inturn, and along the fall edge pare the collar
by the annexed lining away a seam , leaving the canvas the full
diagram , the out size ; then having fitted the outside, stoat, or what
line shewing the is better, if well done, serge along the bottom edge
form of both la and put a row of padding in the canvas, and fell
pel and facing, the cord on , leaving the ends to be treated the same
the broken line as the top of the lapel. In putting the collar on,
where it has tosew the ends of the cords firmly down before
be cut, and thebasting the fronts for drawing, seeing that they lay
line below B the straight and even . When a very thin edge is de
making up edge. sired, and t'mewill permit, cord may be put on the
In cutting out raw edge ; in which case the lapel is basted over
thispuff,or lapels the same as for a stitched edge and then pressed
for stoating, a and pared, the inturn of the skirt being cut off, and
slight round should be left on the upper portion of that of the back skirt also,and then carefully basted
the facing,as at A, and in stoating it should be on again . To sew the cord on , it is indispensable
kept slightly easy on the lapel. If the lapels are that a strand of its own silk should be used , and
cut single the portions left on the one and taken off the sewing must be very thick, themode being to
the otherwill require to be cut square across, so as fell on the back side,catching hold of the two edges
to fit into each other,as at B. As a matter of prac of the cloth and the cord at the same time, holding
tice it is not necessary, in fact, it is better not to cut the cord slightly turned over towardsthe right side,
the seaming on edge of the facing exact, it being in sewing put the stitch well back,and do not let it
best to do so after the front edge is made up, which go through, but only split the cloth in front.
it must be, before the breast facing can be seamed 88 .-- IF THERE ARE NO CUFFS, and an imitation
to. The regular course being, after the second one formed by sewing the sleeve across, the space
press is in, to baste over the edge, fit the facing, behind, between that and the upturn should be filled
seam -to the breast facing , and then proceed as for
raw edge ; it being the usual practice to stitch the up ;without this all imitation cuffs betray themselves.
top of the lapel and collar ends raw , so as to pre When the sleeve is only turned up at the bottom ,
vent any mark of stitches or uneveness of appear it is usually stitched round the width of the inturn
ance, below the turn the stay -tape should be sewn from the bottom ,butis sometimes left entirely plain ,
thick to the canvas only . in which case care must be taken that below the
elbow the linings are not put too long in , and that
87. — IF CORDED Edges, the mode of procedure the upturn is well fastened to the seam .
as regards cutting the lapels, are the same as for 89. - IF A BUTTON CUFF, whether the slit er
double edge (see preceding par.) ; and after the tends above the cuff or not, the hind arm of the
second press we proceed to put on the cord. First
chalk the line very fine the cord is to occupy, and sleeve, in the first instance, should be seamed no
then with silk drawn out of itself, or a piece of more than half way down. Then put to the cuff ;
if stitched or “ bluff " edge, seam along the top as
braid , fell the cord on, setting the stitch well back, directed
so that it takesthe same direction as the platting of for round cuffs in par. 33 ; in all other
the cord, taking care not to twist it. Leave the top cases make up the top and under edge of cuff the
of the lapel till basted over, pare the facing , and sameas the edges of the coat. In making up the
then fell on , taking hold at the same time of the buttonhole edge, first make the edge of cuff run
cord , the raw edge of facing and the lapel, in fact, with the sleeve, then inside, close up to top of cuff,
felling the cord and facing on to the lapel, paring notch in about a quarter of an inch so as to admit
the latter away after pressing off. Following the of a piece of stay -tape to pass from the sleeve to
same rule the cord will be felled down the edge ofthe ouff,after basting which on, put on a facing,
back skirt before turning in . In the case of the above the cuff, to take the hole, if there is oneabove
cuffs, the cord should be felled on an inturn from the cuff. Then make up the edge, put in the holes
 40 HOW TO MAKE A

and tack, to do which lay the sleeve fair and seam notmade by the cutter, themaker must do the best
about an inch above the slit, then turn the cuff out he can. The style and fit of a collar so largely de
through the unseamed portion of the sleeve and put pends upon the form of gorge and quantity of
in the tacking, then turn back again , finish the breast thatwe cannot separate them from the collar
seaming, and finish the sleeve as directed in par. 33. itself, and still further, to illustrate the principle
90 . - IF TO OPEN LOW ; this is equivalent to laid down in par.67,we have prepared the annexed
diagram , in which the outline shews the same form
saying that the coat is not to button so that several
as that given by the diagram in par. 67. Applying
points of difference in the making up must be at our principle to a coat to open low , and without
tended to . As the garment is not pulled close to
the body, less provision requires to bemade for the making any change in the form of collar, but
making a pivot, we bring the crease edge on the
broken line,which, continued forward , reaches the
outside of the lapel at A . So, without altering the
collar, to make the lapel turn at A , we should have
to lower the gorge at B, the broken outline there
shewing the form of collar. If the gorge is not
lowered it is obvious that the collar must be cutas
much rounder in front as the difference between
the original gorgeand thebroken line ; if this course
is followed, if anything like style is to be preserved ,
the width of collar must be increased in front. Be
yond this alteration in height of gorge we also find
that the altered position of the collar affects its re
lation to the front of the forepart, coming no fur
ther forward than B ; therefore, if the breadth of
forepart remains the same, the collar must be
lengthened in its front portion , which would give
too wide a turn, as the crease edge is carried back
to C. These reasons shew that for a coat opening
low , a lower gorge and narrower breast are neces
sary. As regards the effect of this change of posi
tion upon making up,the diagram demonstrates that
less stretching is needed on the fall edge, and also
shews that we get less spring at theshoulder point.
91.- IF TO BUTTON HIGH, the changes are ex
actly the opposite of those detailed in the last par.,
making again a pivot,and bringing the original
crease edge upon the dotted line, which , continued,
reaches the outside of the lapel at D . Wehere see
that the same form of collar would bring the gorge
up, and forward to F, the break itself coming for
ward to H , that we get more spring at the shoulder,
and that our fall edge requires more stretching. In
hip, the skirt can therefore be made up flatter, by this case it is obvious that if the gorge is not
heightened, and the width of front increased , we
having less put on, and less round on the pleat. In should scarcely get any turn to the forepart. As
themaking up of the lapel the turn should be well
commanded, and of course should be padded lower regards the making up of the forepart, the lapel re
quires to be firm , and would be the better if a piece
down and further back . As a matter of course an
alteration will have to be made in the fitting of the of silk or other thin material, with the straight
collar,which , as a necessity we must consider in thread along the crease edgewas padded in between
connection with the form of the gorge and degree the cloth and the canvas ; and, as in the course of
of breast cut on the forepart,our opinion being that wear, the lapels of coats buttoning ligh have a
more change is required in gorge and breast than in tendency to turn up, the canvas should be worked
the collar itself, but if an equivalent alteration is in more freely .
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 41

92. - IF THERE ARE WINGS, which are sometimes 96 . - IF BACK LINED it is not usual to put a
put at the back scye, when a person falls away bogie, and after basting in the side it should be
there, instead of being cut up and made separate, flash basted to the side seam . It is sometimes the
they are best continued as part of the side lining , practice to cut a back lining whole, felling it over
which would then run in a straight line from bot on the right side after joining , but we are in favour
tom of side seam to shoulder ; but if cut in one of cutting it down the centre , which allows both
piece, a puff should be taken out at the top in a foreparts to be completely finished off ; in either
linewith the sideseam , less or more required . The case a pleat should be laid in the centre, and it
wing should be made up with the side, and the should be basted in a little long, as, being non
underside should be lined with the same material. elastic, this will prevent its tying the garment.
Made as part of the side, the wing can be basted in At the bottom we should put the lining under the
its place at the same time, and is best left free at back piece , and under the breast facing at the
the sideseam , where , when made separate, it is shoulder.
generally a bungle and often a tie. After basting 97 . — IF LINED THROUGH THE BACK Skirt, ap
over and sewing the shoulder seam , the top of the pearance being the object, we should fell the lining
wing can be fastened to the canvas, and then the above the inturn in front, instead of putting it under
bogie stitched through all, the whole making a as recommended in par. 57. When a skirt is lined
clean , firm , and at the same time, a free finish. through to the back there is usually a back lining ,
93. - IT EXTRA WADDING, it should be placed in which case there should not be a back piece, the
exactly at the part where it is wanted , and thinned back lining at bottom being felled over the back
off at the edges, more or less, as required . But the skirt ; the back skirt lining is also felled down the
chief thing in putting in wadding is to sew it edge to correspond with front of skirt and down
in firmly, either to facing, side or canvas, covering the pleat upon the top of the skirt lining.
it with Domett, wadding always having a tendency 98 . - IF THE SLEEVE TOP IS TO BE PRESSED UP,
to shift and gradually rub away, which it does in after pressing away the fullness, and before open
proportion to the looseness with which it is fixed . ing the seam of the rest of the scye, lay sleeve head
and shoulder over the broad end of the sleeve
94 . - IF THERE IS HORSE HAIR through the board on the double, the seam also being on the
shoulder, it should always run with the hair straight double, and press sharp and firm , so as to give it a
across the breast, and should pass slightly higher set, and " gloss” the right side as little as possible ,
than the canvas at the shoulder, so that it will sew it being impossible to press or damp the sleeve
in with the bogie ; it should comenearly as far for. head from theoutside. In fore stitching the facing
ward as the turn , and be cleared away about half round the scye, the seams at the sleeve head are
an inch from scye and gorge. If there is any diffi kept on the double, and whatever is put into the
culty in getting it wide enough — as it runs narrow sleeve head should be sewed to the scye, in such a
- the piece hollowed out of scye can be put on at manner as to throw the sleeve up ; wadding, being
corner of shoulder, serging it too through canvas loose, is not fit for this purpose, the best being a
and all at the same time, which will keep it firmly piece of thin Tweed double, or three or four pieces
in its place. At scye and gorge it will require to of Domet. Whatever the material, it should be on
be notched in a little in several places, but these the bias, and is best straight on the serging on
must be straight in so as not to cut the hair across, edge, and in sewing keep full on.
and at scye, gorge and down the front it must be 99. - IF THERE IS A VELVET COLLAR, it is usually
bound over the edge with a piece of firm biased cut on the bias across the piece, although the best
cotton ; finally, it should be sewn firm enough down
to the canvas to prevent its shifting. method is that recommended in par. 73 ; but sup
posing it to be cut in the usualmanner, the stretch
95 . - IF SLEEVES ARE INTERLINED, whether ing and preparing it to put on is a work of much
wholly or top side only , the interlining should be nicety ; this difficulty is considerably increased by
privately basted in two rows to the linings and the difference in the run of the threadsat each end ,
be sewed in with them . If top side only is inter the woof running along one of the sewing on edges
lined, the whole may be kept flat, but if interlined and the warp at the other, a straight thread often
all through, the seams should be opened ; in both running with the crease edge at one end, which in
cases the linings at the top should be privately creases the difficulty of getting it smoothly on , par
basted over the interlinings. ticularly if the coat buttons high , and the collar is
 42 HOW TO MAKE A

much stretched. When there is velvet, the collar the velvet is put on, the velvet being felled down
should be pressed and fitted the same as for a cloth close to the edge, and round the holes ; this forms
outside ; after which set the iron 'upon its end,with the only variation from the usual practice, which
the face from the worker, and holding the velvet we will now describe. When there are velvet
quite fair by the selvages, draw the back of it facings, it is usual for the body to be lined with
smoothly and gently over the face of the iron, re silk , which , after the second press, should be basted
membering that no crease or wave then given to in , the buttons sewn on, and up to the basting on
it can afterwards be effectually removed . After the velvet, the forepart should be treated as de
fitting and cutting the collar to the length and form scribed in par. 85, for silk facings ; except that
desired , lay it on the velvet to ascertain the amount above the turn there is no edge to stitch , nor holes
and position of stretching required, which should to put in , nothing but the bare canvas to deal with .
now be done. In covering, several methods may Below the turn a facing should be put on, the edge
be followed : first, the interlining can be pared | stitched and the holes worked , and then the velvet
away, then laying the collar on the velvet, baste brought over. For facings, the velvet is usually
along close up to the crease edge, then turn over | cut on the cross, in which case they should be taken
and baste along the fall, after which fell the velvet the one out of the other, with the outer edge to the
on the collar lining, afterwards paring the latter edge of the velvet ; if the velvet is on the straight,
away. We do not approve of this method, as it then the lapel edges must be towards the centre of
produces a thin uneven edge, which, besides, does thematerial, which throws the biased edge to the
not stand the wear. A second method is to baste front. It being always desirable in the case of
the velvet on in the same manner, without cutting velvet to give an appearance of thickness, Domet
away the interlining, then very lightly to flash should be flash basted on the canvas before basting
baste the velvet and collar together, and then to on the velvet, in doing which use linen thread , and
turn the velvet a quarter of an inch over the edge so baste it on as to secure ease and smoothness
and cross-stitch it down on to the collar lining when the lapel is turned ; to secure this, any loose
this gives a firm bold edge, and is much followed material should be carried between the bottom la pel
in good trades. A third method is to follow the hole and the top lower one, taking care at the same
same course as that directed in par. 73, for cloth time that there is no tightness on the edge upwards.
outsides, but when this is resorted to themost care- | Supposing that on the edge the velvet is to be turned
ful fitting is indispensable, as the iron can do little in , and the lapel felled on it, previous to turning
for velvet except spoil it. Which ever of these in , a narrow strip of silk should be basted down
plans is followed, the slightest possible amount of the edge of the velvet and be turned in with it ; this
soap may be rubbed on the back of the velvet. In will make the edge as firm as if it was a selvage,
putting on the collar, after serging up, the gorge and will enable the workman to see exactly what he
should be well pressed before felling down. As re is doing , and act as a preventative against any
gards the front, the best way is to fell the cloth on stitches being taken through in felling down the
the velvet, which, if hard pressed, will leave the lapel ; this method will at the same time increase
velvet as full and thick looking as if it was felled the thickness of the edge. In felling the edge, a
on the top of the facing. After the coat is other piece of cloth should be held between the velvet
wise pressed off, lay the iron on its side, and then and the finger, so as to prevent the latter from
the fall of the collar on the iron,with the coat lay - | marking the former, and in working the holes, for
ing away from the worker, and as the heat comes the same reason , a piece of cloth should be held
through, brush the velvet the contrary way of the | under the thumb. At the back part, if there are
pile, after which , while still warm , with the hand , cloth facings, the velvet should be felled on the
set the collar into its desired form . In working top ; if silk , it should be felled over the velvet. In
velvet, above all things avoid the use of water, as it velvet, holesmust be worked thick with fine twist,
softens it and spoils its appearance, besides which , and be barred, more or less ,according to the width
if resorted to in the form of steaming , after a gar- required , in any case more than when in cloth . In
ment is finished, the portion subjected to it becomes basting the collar ends for drawing, care must be
shapeless and flabby. taken to keep the velvet full enough , remembering
that the pile stands out from the double edges,
100 .- IF THERE ARE Velvet Facings, they are which should be made to meet. In drawing, use
always accompanied with a velvet collar. If over very fine silk , and take the shortest possible stitch ,
the regular facings — a practice now very seldom and the smallest possible grip of the edges ; thebest
followed — the forepart should be pressed off before
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 43
stitch to use is a serge, without dragging in the the cuff should be thinly back -stitched through all,
pile. As regards pressing follow the directions and the binding be turned down and felled through
given in the preceding par. all.
101. - IF THERE ARE VELVET Cuffs, and the 104. - IF THE BRAID IS SEAMED ON, which is
sleeves are not cut the full length, the to -set should
sometimes preferred, or done because it is too wide,
be serged to before the cuff is put on, which we all the directions in the previous paragraph will
should seam on the same as directed for cloth, in | apply , except in the case of the cuffs ; they must
par. 33, and then at the bottom turn the velvet over first be bound and then the sleeve felled to the
the bottom of the sleeve and fell the lining or hand inside of the binding . In seaming on binding,
facing over it. slightly more than the half should be left to turn
over, so as to cover the back of the first sewing .
102. - The basting of velvet so as to hold it
firmly and leave no marks behind, is one of the 105. - IF BINDING IS OF ANY OTHER MATERIAL
difficulties that tailors have to contend with , more THAN SILK BRAID , it is best sewn on with a strand
of braid silk , and all other directions given in the
particularly in velvets light in colour and of light two preceding paragraphs will apply.
make, some using cotton , some silk , and others
thread for basting, upon which much depends. Our 106 . - IF THE BINDING IS BACKSTITCHED ON, no
experience has taught us that for basting, unglazed matter what the material or its width may be, the
edges should be preparcd as directed in par. 103.
thread is, without exception the best, holding firm
est, and having none of the cutting sharpness of When ready to put the binding on, crease it on the
cotton, which in the case of velvet, drags the pile double, then with the work turned over to the con
through with every stitch , nor the heavy marking trary side to that to be first sewn, baste on the
property of silk , which most unmistakeably leaves binding, with it laying undermost, and let the crease
its mark on velvet, as well as pulls the pile through. | down the centre be the guide for its proper position ,
To prevent basting from marking, one general rule allowing it to pass beyond the edge according to
should be followed : to cut thread on the back be its thickness, so thatwhen the second half is turned
fore pulling them out in front, in which case, if the over, both inside edges of the binding will be level.
pile has been drawn in in basting, it will be drawn According to the width of the binding, provision
outagain . must be made at all corners to produce them square
and sharp, always making the cushions to lay down .
103. - IF EDGES ARE BOUND WITH BRAID they wards, or else disposing of the surplus each way so
should be evenly pared , and there should be no | that the turn will appear like a seam . In the case
preliminary sewing or basting that is intended to of extra broad bindings, the corners can be seamed,
remain, such having a tendency to shew itself in and the under material
the course of wear. It is therefore necessary that laid either sideways, or
in felling on the braid that the stitch should take equally each way. The
the canvas on both sides, or a loose edge will be cuffs should be treated as
the result. Before commencing to sew , see that the directed for binding in
right side of the braid is outwards,which can easily par. 103. In finishing the
be known by the slight tendency of the under edge collar ends, lightness of
to turn inwards. In felling on, use a thread drawn appearance being an object
out of the braid itself, setting the stitch well back in under coats ; braid or
so as to lay with the thread of the braid ; the stitch binding should be arranged
itself should assume the form shewn under B , par. as shewn by the diagram
6 , only that the needle will be inserted in the con with the two ends, C , of
trary direction , and the smallest possible hold must braid or binding, running
be taken of the braid . With a general statement at right angles with both
that the first sewing should always be on the right the lines A and B ; to do
side of the edge, with the braid laid backwards this, careful adjustment
such a distance as will represent half its width , so is often required. In all
that when it is turned over the binding will be equal cases it is best to put the
on both sides, these directions apply to all edges edges of thebinding under
except the top of cuffs ; in their case the braid | the facing ; if the facing is silk , that portion of it
should be laid between the cuff and the sleeve,then on the la pel should be under the binding.
 44 HOW TO MAKE A

107. - IF THE EDGES ARE FLAT BRAIDED they firmly sewn down to the canvas after the second
should be prepared as directed for binding in par. press ; this method saves the necessity of pricking
103. Baste the braid on the edges, on both sides to through , but if that is preferred, it should be done
the extent that they are double, letting it overlap before basting over. After basting over, the fly
the edge to the smallest possible extent, and being portion of the edges can be made up along with the
careful to keep it fair, neither long nor short ; if other portion, except in the case of a double edge.
long, a loose appearance on the edge cannot be If the edge is double, then the fly facing must be
avoided , and if short, the edges will be contracted stoated to the lapel, and the lining to the lapel
and the turn entirely spoilt. The best course to facing, in which case the lapel must be so far basted
follow in basting on the braid is to lay it in its over before the fly is pricked through or fastened
place as the basting progresses,and to slightly lift down, unless it is preferred that the edges should
the thumb with every stitch taken ; this leaves it to be turned in and felled .
find its own length without any force being applied 112,-- IF THE LAPEL IS CUT ON, no precise direc
either way. After basting on, side stitch so as not L tions can be given as to the making up, so much
to be seen, the inside edge of the braid , with a
thread drawn out of itself ; then on all edges where depending upon whether there are puffs or not, and
the braid is single, stitch it on the outside, or turn their nature and size. One thing mustbe carefully
over and fell the edge of the garment on to the attended to, that is, to adjust the outer edge in
length to the space within which the buttons are to
braid , without taking the stitch through ; wherever
the braid is on both sides of the edge, thickly serge stand, without carrying it either up or down. Want
the two edges together, or, if preferred, fell the in of attention to this particular is always attended
with detrimental effects on the sit of the front, and
side layer on the outside one.
on the apparent fit of the collar. When , in a coat
108 . - IF THE EDGES ARE STITCHED OFF for of this kind , the front does not sit well when but
preparation previous to sewing, see par. 86 , and toned, lay it unbuttoned in what appears to be its
follow the directions given, except that ihe stay proper place , and any fault in the making will at
tape should be kept as far from the edge as the once be detected.
stitching is intended to be from it, so that the
stitching itself is close up to, but not through, the 113 . - IF MADE OF HALF MILL MATERIAL,the gar
edge of the stay tape. ment is in all respects made up lighter, there being
less wadding put in , often none whatever ; thinner
109. - IF EDGES ARE DOUBLE SEWN, to give a cotton being used for pockets,and black vestcanvas
good appearance and make them easier to stitch, a for the breast. In making up,the edges are always
double row of stay tape should be put on , the two on
occupying the width the stitching is intended to be, thethe double, and stitched close on the edge, or
width of a button needle off. The breast pocket
the second row requiring no more sewing than will
keep it in its place. Also, to secure a good appear should
away
be bound. The canvas should not be cut
from the holes. To give form , some thin
ance, the material should be kept easy between the material should be padded in with both collar and
two rows of stitching, being held back in putting
in the first row , if raw edge ; and if double edge, lapel, the best being a piece of bias Alpaca. Great
care is required in pressing half millmaterial ; what
making suitable provision in fitting and basting is wanted is to put fair together, thick sewing, and
over .
in pressing to use very little or no water, and to
110.-- IT EDGES ARE TO BE CORDED AND STITCHED damp with a rag that is no more than damp, paying
OFF, proceed as for corded edges, see par. 87, except particular attention to the instructions given in
that as the stitching should not be more than an par. 76.
eighth of an inch behind the cord , the stay tape on
the edge should be doubled , so that the stitching 114 . - IF MADE FROM MELTon , in the substance
will be just behind it ; then to secure a steady edge, of which there is a wide range,the making upmust
there should be a second stay tape coming just be be regulated accordingly, the chief difficulty being
with the pressing, or rather the damping, particu
hind the stitching, which will then fall between the larly
two tapes. of the thinner descriptions. Providing that
the first and second presses have been well at
111. - IF THERE IS A FLY,as there is sometimes tended to, in pressing off,Melton does not require
below the turn , its linings, facings, and stays, the such a dead press as cloth ; too dead pressing
latter extending across to the buttons, should all be creates the difficulty of removing the gloss. For
 SUPERFINE FROCK COAT. 45

Melton especially, cotton should never be used in edges, although sometimes done, should not be
place of a press linen , as it gives a dead gloss diffi- stitched raw , and that a narrow hole must not be
cult to remove ; in pressing Melton the best plan is attempted ; they must be varied in breadth accord
to damp as you go, and when the gloss is difficult ing to thesubstance of the material. Beavers having
to get off, rub it with thedamp rag,after damping, a loose thick wool at the back, require very hard
remembering that the rag must not be too wet. pressing, and in appearance will always repay the
115 . - IF MADE FROM VENETIAN, which , like labour. In making the collar, the loose wool at the
Melton, differs in substance, the edges must either back, both of inside and outside, should be burnt
be bound, or double stitched , on or off. When the off,as it gives a thickness and springiness that pre
vents the collar from sitting well or preserving its
edges are double, proceed as directed in par. 86 . form .
Venetian being a hard unyielding material, it re
quires to be carefully put together, well sewn and 118 . - IF THERE ARE PUFFS TAKEN OUT OF FRONT
stayed. Being liable to blister, as little water as | OF BREAST, the lapel will require less drawing in , as
possible should be used in pressing. What may be , it is shortened by the puff being taken out, the
called a light hole cannot be put in Venetian, as the length required on the outer edge remaining the
raw edge would work its way through behind the same. For general directions for putting on the
barring, therefore nothing less than a moderately stay tape, see par. 50. A puff taken out of the
thick worked hole should ever beattempted . breast does not in any way disturb the fit of the
collar.
116 . - IT MADE OF WORSTED COATING, INCLUDING
CRAPES, owing to their liability to stretch in any 119 . - IF THERE ARE PUFFS TAKEN OUT OF
direction, the greatest care must be exercised in GORGE, whether any alteration is required to be
putting them together. To secure exactness, all made in the collar will depend upon the form of
the edges of the foreparts and backs should be puff taken out ; if fish shaped, as recommended in
serged , separately one on the top of the other, so as par. 66 , then the general directions given in par. 67 ,
to make sure that they are alike ; after seaming, as to the fitting of collars, are sufficient. But if a
wherever required, these threads can be pulled out V shaped puff is taken out a matter over which
or cut. When these materials are not lined in the the operative has no control - he must adapt the
back, the back seam should be taped ,and the side form of his collar accordingly . As we have already
lining brought over to the outside of the seam ; the said , this form of puff has a tendency to shorten a
sleeve lining at the back scye should also be brought | collar more than the quantity taken out, although
over the seam , for which allowance must be made | not necessarily so if proper care is exercised in fit
in cutting the sleeve linings ; the bottom of the l ting it. The effect of a V taken out is to make the
bogie should also be either bound
or thickly overedged with a loop
stitch . All linings in these ma
terials should be felled uppermost.
The holes must always be broad ,
and thickly worked , no canvas
being cut out, no matter whether
it is black or white, but if white,
it must be slightly pushed back
with the needle. The holes should
only be cut out one at a time, as
ready to work them , and before
cutting out they should be back
stitched each side of the chalk , so as to keep the gorge more hollow , which requires to bemetby a
edge firm ; in working, this sewing should be round collar ; this again is supposed to give a short
brought within the breadth of the hole. The top edge, and will do so if not properly fitted .
collar linings of these materials should be of Melu | What should be done is to fit the collar before the
ton, or cloth made up wrong side out. puff is sewn up, not after,which we will suppose
117. - IF MADE FROM BEAVER,which also differs gives the form shewn by the unbroken outline in
much in substance ; all the directions given for the annexed diagram ; then after the puff is sewn
superfine will apply , with the exception that the up, lay the collar again in the same position as be
 46 HOW TO MAKE A SUPERFINE FROCK COAT.
fore at front and shoulder, and mark the sewing on ping the sewing on edge behind. Adding on in
edge by the changed form the gorge has assumed, front will effect one result, and that a very objec
which we will suppose to be represented by the tionable one— the spreading open of the front, and
broken line. Following this method , the crease at the saine timemaking it appear as if forced out
edge is increased in length and the fall edge re of its place, giving it a deep dent just where the
mains in the same position. Suppose, instead of collar and gorge meet at the crease edge, so throw
following this course, we provide the extra round ing it entirely out of both sweep and straightness,
by running the collar off in front,as shewn by the without conferring upon it the quality of turning to
dotted line, the crease edge then becomes shortened, more than one point. Its proper turning point is as
and obviously the collar would becomein every way absolutely fixed as that of the collar shewn by the
contracted , leading to the supposition that it is put outline ; if buttoned higher, it has an ugly look , it
on short ; but it will be seen that although the bags loose from opposite where it breaks ; the ad
length of collar remains the same, that the crease vantage of cutting a collar in this manner is sup
edge is considerably shortened between A and B , posed to consist in giving length to the fall without
which shortening will not allow the coat to fall into giving length to the crease edge, but this it only
its place, no matter how long it may be put on does within a limited space, the additional length
behind the break. not being available along the whole of the bottom
120 . - IF THE COAT IS TO BUTTON AT DIFFERENT of the fall. If the collar is dropped behind, as
HEIGHTS, the collar must be cut differently to the shewn on the diagram by the broken lines, the case
method laid down in par.68,still further illustrating is very different, as the stand must be stretched in
the fact that no definite rule can be laid down as to proportion to the extent to which it is dropped,
the amount of spring, which will be still more ap which disperses the extra length over the whole of
the fall behind the A B ; the length gained by alter
parent by the instructions subsequently given for ing
the collars of coats to button up, or very high. If as per dotted marks laying like a puff in front
the turn of a frock coat is required to button atmore of that line. Neither, by the plan we recommend
is the crease edge lengthened , as the collar is cut
than one place, at whatever place it is buttoned it as much shorter as it is intended to stretch the
ought to appear as if meant to do so exactly there. stand ; that again must depend upon the extent to
So that the question is, as more length is required which it is dropped. When the hand is laid under
on the fall edge, how to provide for it ? Some do a collar cut as we direct, and properly made, the
so by simply stretching ; this, however, is attended turn will follow itsmotion, and at every point will
the collar in course of wcar
with uncertainty , and Supposing there and nowhere
appear as if made to turnperfection else.
gets out of shape. the outline of the This is whatwe call the of collar making
- - - - - - - - - - . . .
S O
and shews a true artist has moulded and
.
endowed it with the poetry of motion .
Adding on in front will produce only a
mechanical curved fixed looking thing,
which no one would like,withoutknowing
the reason why it offended the sight.
121.- IF THERE ARE DOUBLE HOLES,
which are sometimes required when the
garment is wanted to button at different
points, the holes to be double should be
worked on one side before the facing is
basted over. To properly do this, after the second
annexed diagram to show the outline of an ordinary press is in , and the canvas pared away from the
collar; with a view of securing the object, it is a holes, baste on each side of thehole to be double,
common practice to alter the collar as shewn by Prussian binding or narrow Galloon, then work the
the dotted lines forward from A B ; but the best hole bite up , and press it. It is upon this side of
plan is, from the samepoints to let the collar drop the hole that the stress of the buttoning will fall,
down behind ,as shewn by the broken lines, and the therefore after basting over, the other side of the
diagram illustrates the difference and the value of
the twomethods ; the outline representing a collar hole need be only lightly worked ; in doing which ,
catch the under stitches of the first worked side as
that would turn to a fixed point only ; the dotted close to the edgeas possible. The second sidemust
lines forward shew the alteration that would be | be worked narrow so as to require very little biting
made by adding on from the crease edge forward , up, or the appearance of the first worked side will
and the broken lines the change effected by drop - ' be spoiled .
END OF PART ONE .
 GARMENT MAKING --INDEX , PART ONE .
Stitches used by Tailors and their application .
1 Running. Serging. 3 Backstitch . 4 Back and Forestitch. 5 Padding. 6 Felling. 7 Side-stitch .
8 Štoating. 9 Tacking. 10 Buttonhole. 11 Drawing. 12 Cross-stitch . ' 13 Loop-stitch .
14 Pricking. 15 Rantering. 16 Fine Drawing. 17 Quilting. 18 Drawing-in . 19 Chain-stitching.
The Sewing Machine.
20 Its loring
rise, progress,
. and thestitches practicable for Tai- | 22 Thetration
results. of imperfect performance, with illus
21 A critical examination ofthe Lock -stitch, with illustra - 23 The kinds of work for which the Sewing Machine
tion,showing how it is formed. is best adapted . .
How to make a Superfine Frock Coat.
24 Introduction , why we decide to i tailed instructions, with remarks 76 Pressing off and finishing.
make the Coat in “ Thirds."
25 How a Coat is generally divided monythe ted . ofmethods frequent. 77 Concluding Remarks.
adopresults
into “ Thirds."
26 The duties, responsibilities, and
51 THE PLEAT POCKETS. - Cutting the Extras - Morning Frock, & c.
pockets, and putting them in 78 If the coat is to be tried on . - Ne
necessary qualifications of a Col. when the skirt is lined.
lar-Man . 52 Our reasons for preferring the cessary
ready. instructions for making
27 The Coat begun : A Specimen method laid down in the preced 79 Ifit side-edges- how to make and
Ticket, which is explained ;also, ing par. fit them .
the usual method s by which the
instruction as to making the gar
53 Putting in a Pleat Pocket when
the skirt is not lined through . 8081 Outside
Inside pleat pockets.
ment are conveyed to the collar 54 Making the sides and putting the 82 breast pocket.
man in first-class shops. padding in the facings. Pleat pockets half on the back .
28 The first dutiesofthe collar-man : 55 The Second Press, detailed parti. 83 Spectacle pocket.
various necessary precautions in culars asto themode of procedure 8485 Silk
A pocket in skirt facing.
breast facings, detailed parti
the way of “ markingup," & c ., 56 Preparing for basting over; basting
with the view of securing that upthe Pleat pockets,button stays, 86 “ culars, with an illustration .
Boss,” or double edge.
the Coat will be fairly and equally marking and cutting the holes.
put together throughout. 57 The basting over ; full and detailed 87 Corded edges - the latest invented
style of putting the cord on the
29 The process of “ Fitting-up." particulars as to procedure. raw edge.
30 MAKING THE SLEEVES. - Import. 58 Stitching the edge felling in ,tack 88 Imitation cuff.
ant instructions as to booking. ings, & c., with an illustration . 89 A button cuff.
in ; with illustrations. 59 The button holes, instructions for 90 Coat with long roll.
81 Our object, and the necessity for producing the kind of holes re
quired for the coat in hand , both 91 Coat to burton high ,
descending to the minutest par 92 If there are Wings.
ticulars as we proceed . for those on the roll and under 93 If extra Wadding.
32 Directions for cutting Cuffs and
Sleeve iinings
roll, biting up, & c. 94 If there is Horse Hair.
60 PUTTING IN THE SLEEVES. - Pitch
33 Instructions asto furtherprogress, of foreand back arm ; an effective 9596 If the Sleeves are Interlined .
If Back Lined.
pressing, putting-to the cuffs, method for preventing Splitting 97 1f Lined through the Back Skirt.
sleeve linings, and hand facings.
34 The in the front of scye ; how the ful 98 Ifthe Sleeve Top is to be pressed up
pressing-off. ness and tightness should be regu . 99 If there is a Velvet Collar. Three
35 THE FORETARTS. -- Introductory ; lated ,how to press the seam , & c. methods of putting Velvet on a
instructions for turning in and | 61 Pressing off the foreparts. Full Collar.
felling the backs. and detailed particulars as to the 100 If there are Velvet Facings.
36 The necessity for first wetting, whole operation of Pressing and 101 If there are Velvet Cuffs.
and afterwards smoothing the Damping. 102 This Section deals specially with
canvas before being put in . 62 Sewing on the Buttons. the basting of Velvet.
37 Putting-to the sidebody ; how to 63 Paring the Edges. 103 If Edges are bound with Braid .
act when it is short. 64 The Joining and back tacking. 104 If the Braid is Seamed on .
38 The Lapel - how put to, and how 65 THE COLLAR.— This Section treats 105 If the binding is other material
sewnWaist-seam
; illustrated -. directions for of the generalquestion of Collar than Silk Braid .
39 The Fitting, going into a number of 106 If the binding is Back-stitched on .
putting-to the skirt, and sewing matters which have to be con .
107 If the Edges are Flat Braided .
the seam . sidered in fitting a Collar. This 108 If the Edges are Stitched off.
40 Putting the linen on the pleat. is illustrated with 3 diagrams. 109 If Edges are Double Sewn.
41 The necessity of paying proper | 66 Puffs in gorge, how they should 110 If do., are Corded and Stitched off
attention to the nature of linen . be taken out. 111 If there is a Fly .
42 Detailed instructions as to put 67 The form of gorge in connection 112 If the Lapel is Cut on .
ting-to the back .
43 BREAST POCKETS- when bound.
with cutting of collar, illustrated
by a diagram . 113 Ifmade of Half Mill material.
44 Do. when backstitched. | 68 Detailed instructions for cutting 114 Ifmade from Melton .
45 Detailed instructions in connec collar, illustrated. 115 If made from Venetian .
tion with the first press. 69 Important instructions as to how 116 If made from Worsted Coating,
46 Observations upon the use of the collar should be taken out of 117 Ifincluding Crapes.
made from Beaver.
water in pressing seams. the material.
47 Basting up the Pleats . 70 Instructions
collar: as to making the 119 If Puffs takenof out
118 If Puffs out Front of Breast.
of Gorge. Il
48 Full instructions as to basting in lustrations shewing how Collars
the canvas, with general obser | 71 Pressing collar. should be cut to fit the different
vations showing the evils arising 72 Fitting collar, previous to covering.
from certain
49 Padding methodsof
the lapel, how to doing
do so toit. 7473 Covering the collar. remarks pre - 120 Ifforms
A few preliminary
ofGorge.
the same Coat is to button at
get the required form ,and how vious to putting on collar and different heights. Illustrated :
to steadyonthethecrease
50 Putting stayedge. pressing off . putting on collar ) 121 Iffullthere
tape ; de. I 75 Instructionsasto
and detailed instructions.
are Double Holes.
 GARMENT MAKING --INDEX , PART TWO,
Sections 121 to 127shew how to make | 175 If Quilted Linings.
Clerical Coats,
Dress Coats.
128 The Lapel, how cut, with illus
tration — the necessary changes
from a Frock Coat.
129 Putting-to Lapel, & c.
130 If there is an inside Skirt Pocket.
131 Instructions concerning the Lapel
Facing and Pleat.
132 ding
Basting in the Canvas, and Pad
Lapel.
133 Putting on the Siaytape.
134 Putting in the Pockets, & o.
135 Basting over .
136 The Button -holes.
137 The Collar, Finishing, & c.
138 If the Skirts are lined with Silk .
139 IfSilkRoll
.
Collar, and covered with
140 If the Facing on Roll is Cloth.
Morning Coats.
Flpand
AnGlaIllustration its object.
rmenBreasted
141 Single t o c Morning
k Coat;
General rObservations
e et on the
Garment.
142 If there are Flaps.
143 If there are Pockets under the
Flaps.
of Morning Coats ; dif.
144 Collárs formsof
ferent
illustrations.
Rolls,with three
145 Double Breasted Morning Coats,
the difficulty connected with the
holes and buttons fully treated .
146 Variations in making-up .
Hunting Coats.
147. General Observations.
Instruction in Sewing the
148 AnSeams.
149 How to sew the Buttons on
Scarlet Cloths.
150 The edges, and how made up .
151 An important matter to be ob
served in connection with lapped
seams.
152 How to put in the Sleeves when
the seamsare lapped .
153 The edges, seams,and the Sewing
Machine.
154 The Pockets.
155 The Button -holes.
156 The Back Piece .
157
158
The Collar - with illustration .
False Sleeves.
159 How Scarlet may be cleaned and
stains removed .
Shooting Coats.
160 General Observations.
161 Hare Pocket - How put in .
162 Leather on Shoulder.
Lounge, Cambridge & Reefer,
General Remarks on the Pockets.
163 If with a Welt.
164 If the Pockets are Jeated.
165 If Pockets under Flaps.
166 If Flaps to go out and in .
167 If Pockets patched on .
168 If Flap to patch Pocket.
169 If Coat made without linings.
170 General Remarks upon the mak
of Norfolk Shirts. "
171 Reference to Ordinary Frocks.
172 If Pockets in Waist Seam .
173 If the edges are piped .
174 If Silk Breast Facings.
217 If Strap buttons
176 If Edges bound or flat braided . 218 If to button under. foot in French
177 The Collar, and its peculiarities bottom style, full instructions.
for this style of Coat ; full in
structions, with an illustration .
219 If Trousers Full Fall, instructions
178 If there is a Velvet Collar.
as to cutting bearers,and putting
in pockets , with illustration .
Chesterfields. 220 If Narrow Falls, with illustration
179 Observations as to Pocket and 221 If Trousers are lined .
Fly. - Full particulars as to
222 BREECHESmaking
180 The Collar,andGeneralBemarks making ; up Knees, Gar
on Chesterfields. ters , & c ., with illustrations
223 PANTALOONS- How made.
Sacs. 224 - KNICKERBOCKERS
making. - Instructions
181 General Remarks. formaking .
182 The Sewing Machine; detailed HOW TO MAKE WAISTCOATS.
instructions as to preparing the225 Instructions for making a plain
work for it. Vest ; fitting up ; fit
stand collarsewing
183 How to command the edges. ting and on Collar and
184 Awith
Whole-back - how to proceed Welts ; the Pockets ; basting in
the making. the Canvas; preparing for second
185 The slit in the back. press ; basting on Facings; ma
186 Preparing the strapped seams for king up edge ; putting in theholes;
the Machine. breast linings ; should the Canvas
187 Further
Machine.
preparations for the be cut up centre ; joining in two
188 Making the Sleeves. ways ; the back straps; putting
189 The Collar. on the buttons.
190 General Remarks on Driving 226 If Prussian Collar.
Coats. 227 If Single Breasted no collar.
191 Instructionsfor making Ulsters. 228 If Single Breasted, roll collar ;
how to cut a Collar. and put it to :
192 Do. making Inverness Capes.
193 Do. making Cloaks. how to crease the Roll ; full in
194 Do. making Morning Gowns. structions for making it up in its
several stages. If Vest is embroi.
How to examine a Coat. dered .
195 important
This Section contains full and
instructions as to how 229 If Single Breasted Roll and Step.
230 cut
If Double Breasted , with Lapels
to examine a Coat. How to as off ; how Lapels are cut and
certain , 1st, If the Collar is on the put to. Instructions for having the
right length ; 2nd, If properly put holesand but in their proper place
together; 3rd , As to the equal 231 If Double Breasted Roll Collar,
length ofCollars and Lapels ; 4th , or Roll and Collar not to button
As to Linings and Pockets ; 5th , over. If the entire Roll is cutoff.
Asto thestyle and workmanship . If puff taken out of frontofbreast.
Miscellaneous. If front requires to be very open .
232
Sections 196 to 200 contain valuable 233 IfIf there are flaps. .
information on various subjects. there are eyelet holes ; if rot
through the facings.
HOW TO MAKE TROUSERS. 234 edges
Instructions for making up the
in various ways.
201 General Observations. 235 If there is a Fly.
202 Further preliminaries. 236 If the material is White ; how
203 How to makea pair ofplain Trou Marsallas, plain and figured ,
sers, fly front. The seaming ; the Ducks and Drills are made ; in
fly catch , how cut and put to ; structions for pressing off White
making up front and fly lining ; Waistcoats.
making fly ; making up intheflytops
second press ; putting and
; 237 It made of Velvet or Plush.
making up button-catch ; joining 238 If made of material with pattern .
the trousers ; making up the bot 239 Ifmade of Fur - full instructions.
toms: how to deal with washing 240 To make a Cassock .
materials 241 To make an under Vest.
; waist lining; pressing 242 To make a false Vest.
off ; fly buttons.
204 If there is a crutch lining. Sections 243and244 shew how to make
205
206
If Waistbands.
If Buckle and Strap. Under Clothing,
207 If Brace Buttons. Section 245, 246 ,247and 248 shew how
208 If Cash Pocket. to make
209 If Side Pockets. The Highland Jacket, Vest, & c.
210 If Cross Pockets. How to make Robes and Gowns.
211 If Frog Pockets - old fashioned 249
250 How to make a Court Dress.
style and modern style, 2 illust. Sections 251 to 268 contain detailed
212 If Pockets behind. instructions as to making all kinds of
213 If Irench Bearer.
214 If Side seams are lapped . LADIES' GARMENTS,
215 If Braid down the side seam . IncludingRiding Habit, Train, Riding
216 If the Bottoms are faced ; direc Trousers and Jackets.
tions for shrinking bottoms; and 269 and 270 shew how to make
facing with Gutta Percha ; press
ing off. Boys' and Youths' Clothing ,
 .

HOW TO MAKE CLERICAL COATS ,

122. — The coats we treat of in the four suc | twisting it, as he may forçe it too much one way or
ceeding paragraphs are such as are worn by Clergy the other ; it will,astherefore, be seen that position
men, being varied according to individual fancy or well as tightness
has to be studied ant

the practice of thedenomination to which they be very often overlooked .

long. In Clerical coats proper, there are peculiari 124 . - IF SINGLE - BREASTED TO BUTTON UP, with
ties which cannot be separately noticed , amounting
to small minute details dictated by the taste and
a stand and fall collar, the foreparts will be the
same as in last paragraph, but as regards collar
fancies of each customer ; for however unimportant the
the
principle laid down in par. 120 will have to be
they may appear to others , they are vital points more fully applied. In thatparagraph welay down
with those concerned , and demand the closest at the rule, that if extra length is required on the fall
tention of the tailor. Apart from any peculiarity edge of a collar, it should be provided by dropping
of cut, which does not concern the operative, the it behind and stretching
the stand, rather than cut
chief difficulty is the collar, there being often an ting ordinary stretching the fall.
exact quantity that the ends must be apart,which Besides the length required and
it in the form
in consequence of but
is not only affected by the distance the end is from
the edge of the forepart, but also by the distance there is also the height of stand to be
toning up, consideration
taken into ; as a matter of course the
the hole is from the edge ; and in a case where lower it is the more will the back part of the collar
such exactitude is required , this must be taken intorequire to be dropped, and the more will the stand
consideration. Another important point is, that require to be stretched. Besides, in the making,
from the end of the collar to the edge of the fore great nicety be exercised in putting on a
part the space left open must run straight across , collar of this must
description, appearance of the
and not follow the line of the gorge, so that if pro garment will be entirelyor the
destroyed ; the collar
vision for this is notmade in the cutting , the work should not be held tight at any part of the gorge,
man must make up for it by taking no paring at
the top in front. We may say of clerical dress but rather easy the whole way ; this is not always
generally , that in making, no garments requirepossible, as it depends upon the cut of the gorge,
and the collar has often to be put on to a stated
greater care ; they require to be strongly put to length.
gether, and with all the nicety of military uniforms.
One thing must be borne in mind, that Clergymen 125 . - IF BUTTON UP WITH A Fly, theonly point
of all denominations as a rule , are gentlemen with in addition to those in the preceding paragraph, is
comparatively small means, and thatmany of them the fly itself . In putting a fly in the breast of a
are even poor, and therefore,in thematter of clothing , coat, we should first baste a piece of straight linen
must keep in view both appearance and quality . down the front at the degree of tightness it is in
tended to draw in the breast ; press it back, and
123. - IF SINGLE-BREASTED, according to the then put on the staytape ; press it again , put in
point it is to turn to , so must the fitting of the
collar be regulated ; if buttoning high, consult the the fly lining and make up the front edge ; baste
to the fly facing and then baste in the canvas to
directions given in paragraph 120 ;with this excep come to the front edge, in which case the canvas
tion all the directions given in par. 68 will apply . will be through the fly ; then stitch orprick through
In making up the front it should be well pressed such a distance from the edge as will just clear
back ; and in basting over the breast facings, first all, then put the staytape down the edge of
baste down through centre of shoulder and breast ; the fly , so ; that
the holes
when made up it will be a full eighth
then in basting the front part keep the facing of an inch inside the edge of the forepart ; then
slightly tight across, so as to make the forepart sit baste over and finish according to previous direc
round over the breast and to prevent the facing
from bagging over. This requires to be carefully tions. Being usually worn buttoned, strong holes
and properly done; it is not sufficient that the should always be put in single-breasted coats.
facing be simply kept tight, it must be in the right 126 .— IF with a STAND Collar, it invariably
place, or it will be worse than useless ; hence we has some description of stiffening through it, some
say, first baste down the centre of forepart, which times undressed leather, but usually buckram . Sup
will enable the worker to see what he is about. If, posing it to be buckram , first cut to the length ,
without basting the facing down the centre, he width and shape required, then, having previously
attempts to keep it tightacross, he runs the risk of well shrunk the outside, lay the buckram on it,with
 48 HOW TO MAKE A
the face of the outside next the sleeve-board, then fell in the collar lining, basting it in slightly tight.
lay a piece of thin cotton, moderately wet on the If the collar is lined with silk , it is sometimes the
top of the buckram , and press altogether with a practice to stitch it with a chain pattern, or a plain
warm iron, well stretching the cotton lengthwise | row of stitching round, to a piece of thin Tweed,
while doing 80 ; then turn the collar overand laying the edges of which are serged to the inturn of the
it on a dry press cloth, give it a good hard press collar, making all one thickness inside. If the in
outside. After pressing, pare the cotton to the terlining is leather, after cutting to the length and
edge of the buckram , except at the bottom , where width required , first rub a little soap on the rough
leave it a quarter of an inch over, and the outside side, and well stretching a piece of cotton, lay it
to within a quarter of an inch of its edge, then with upon the leather and run it over with a nearly cold
the iron turn the outside over along the top and iron ; then rubbing a little soap on the wrong side of
ends. Then serge the inturn of the outside down outside collar, lay it on thesmooth sideofthe leather
to the cotton and buckram . The collar is now ready and press also with a nearly cold iron . After which
for sewing on, as we prefer putting in the lining proceed and finish the sameas in the case of buckram .
after it is on. In sewing on the collar, seam the I Having exhausted the subject of Frocks, we will
cotton in with it, and after serging up the neck, | now proceed to give instructions upon

HOW TO MAKE A DRESS COAT,

Of course, in the making of a Dress Coat, in very
many cases the instructions for the Frock apply to
which we have referred ; but as there are many
points of minute difference, this necessitates ap
parent repetition to some small extent, which we
have been careful to avoid as far as possible . One
general direction may be given , that Dress Coats,
being made for indoor wear, should be made as
light as possible.
To begin with , all the paragraphs from 24 to 37
inclusive,equally apply to Dress Coats.
127. - Having seamed the sidebody we now
put to the skirt, which , as a Dress Coat does not
button, should be kept on but very little ; aswidth
of skirt and length of strap should be the same on
both foreparts, the line of the plaits should be kept
exactly at the same point behind, one seam in from
sideseam edge of sidebody, so that the marking
threads will run with the sideseam when the back is
put to. In seaming across, keep the strap quite
fair, and whatever fullness there may be keep in
the centre of the skirt.
128 . - The lapel of a Dress Coat is different
in form ,and differently sewn on to that of a Frock ;
the turn of a Dress being more fixed than in the
Frock , as well as a smarter appearance being re
quired . To secure this latter quality, there is less
breast cut on ; and with the same object, as it does
not button , the forepart is slightly run off at the
reading in connection with it par. 41. Put to the
waist. These points must be kept in view by the back as directed in par. 42.
workman, who should adapt the form of his lapel
and making up accordingly. Now , although the
turn of a Dress Coat is more fixed
than that of a Frock, it must not
lack the appearance of freedom ,
which must be effected by not al
lowing it to turn too sharp at the
bottom ; this depends upon the
form of the lapel and its making
up. The annexed diagram shews
the best form in which the lapel
can be cut. Comparing this with
the one given for a Frock Coat in
par. 38, it will be seen that it is
totally different ; the sewing on
edge being rounder at the top and
running inwards at the bottom ,
that is, slightly following the fore
part. By this means we grip the
turn at the top and give it free
dom below , also securing a bolder
outline on the outside edge.
129.- The lapel should be
cut exactly the length of front,
and in sewing on should be kept
fair from top to bottom , sewing
the seam tight enough to draw it
into a straight, from half way
between thesecond and third holes
to the top.
Put linen down the pleat, as directed in par. 40,
130. - If there is an inside skirt pocket, follow
 DRESS COAT. 49

the directions for breast pocket given in par. 44, ex

cept that theremust be a cloth facing loose at the
ends, so that it will go in or out, in which a bared
hole must be put, and a small flexible button puton
at the pocket mouth .
131. – For sewing on the lapel facings and
putting in the first press follow the directions given
in par. 45, but instead of only shrinking the pleat,
crease it down by themarking threads.
Baste up the pleat laying flat on the back skirt,
beginning at the top , and laying its edge to the line
drawn as directed in par. 47.
132 . - In basting in the canvas follow thedirec
tions given in par. 48,except, instead ofkeeping the
seam straight, let it follow the form of the lapel.
In padding the lapel, follow the directions in par.
49, except that in a Dress Coat it should be carried
lower down.
133.- The form of the lapel being adhered to
in basting in the canvas, the staytape will not re
quire to be kept very tight on the edge, and must
not be so at all at its lower part. Keep the tape
fair across the strap,and only just tight down the
skirt, carrying the tape down to the bottom , which
will secure a better appearance to the finished edge.
For general instructions see par. 50.
134. - For putting in the pockets, follow par.
51, except that in cutting, let them be large enough
to reach to within about half an inch of the front
edge of skirt, all the way down ; this will give an
uniform firmness to the skirt. For making sides,
and putting in the second press, see pars.54 and 55.
135 . - For basting over, follow pars. 56 and
57, except that in a Dress Coat the holes are equal without concealing the hole itself. A comparison
distance apart ; and that the skirt facing, except at with diagram in this par. and thatin par. 67,willat
the top, should be kept the least thing tight across. once shew the difference in style between a Frock
and Dress. Both diagrams are drawn to the same
136 . - In putting in the holes, follow the in scale,
structions in par. 59, except that in a Dress Coat gorge isandlowered
in the diagram in this paragraph the
they are always narrow , including the bottom ones, width according toin the
front and the breast reduced in
best practice. Of course in
which have nothing cut out at the end , but are
worked square, the same as a lapel hole. For re speaking of these alterations in cut, we know it is
mainder of forepart see pars. 60 to 64. a matter over which the workman has no control,
still, being necessary, we can only speak of them as
137. - For general instructions on the collar, having been made. Another particular in which
and pressing off,read pars. 65 to 76 ; the exceptions workmen cannot please themselves, is the mode of
to which we will now consider. As the coat is not making up the collar ends : many employers having
to button , in fitting the collar,which it will be un them made up square, although first-class trades
derstood should always be done before seaming on still adhere to the " snips " which, in our opinion,
the lapel, we lay the lapel close at the bottom , are themost preferable, as they enable a narrower
and draw the crease edge to a point fully as low as collar to be put on without appearing insignificant.
the second hole from the bottom , so that when the The form of the snips is entirely a matter of taste ;
lapelis turned it will pass the front end of the hole, our diagram shews a very effective style.
 50 HOW TO MAKE A

Except in so far asafter noted , extras and devia the run of the edge after the collar is on. Put on
tions in Dress Coats, are the same as given under no Demett on the roll under the silk, as it prevents
their proper headings for “ extras and deviations in the silk laying flat. In basting the facing on, a
Frocks." straight basting should be run in close behind the
138 . - IF THE SKIRT IS LINED WITH SILK, its break, taking care to keep the silk short enough on
front edge is made up double or “ boss ;" the silk the edge of the lapel, allowing any looseness behind
to be dealt with as may be most convenient. If
is always brought over the back skirt,and a pleat the coat is lined through with silk , it is usually
should be laid in over the pleat in the skirt. made up boss edged to the bottom of the turn. Do
139, - İF ROLL COLLAR, with which there are not baste the silk over on the roll, but leave it loose
usually silk facings and silk lining throughout, the to be dealt with by the collar man. As regards the
lapel at the top must be cut narrower, the collar be collar, it should only be stitched and padded pre
coming wider in front, the changes being shewn in vious to being sewn on , but in paring away the in
the annexed diagram . In making up, the lapel terlining,which should be the sameas that through
the foreparts, leave over a good half inch beyond
the sewing on edges in front, which , after sewing
on , fasten down to the forepart canvas. In fitting
à roll collar, half an inch of extra length must be
allowed, as, in consequence of its formation, and
the silk facings, it requires to go longer on. After
the collar is seamed on , and the gorge serged up,
pare the edges and put on the staytape, which
should only come about two inches above the top
of the lapel ; press the collar and lapels, pressing
them firmly down on the crease edge, afterwards
pressing crease out, except across the back . Then
baste the silk over the fronts. To give the neces
sary freedom at the shoulder pointof gorge, a puff
should be put in the facing at the point shewn by
dotted line on the diagram . Then turn in the edges
at the back of the collar and draw them , afterwhich
side stitch down'the silk on the edge, and put a
flower hole in the left side. There are only blind
holes below the turn , and, except the flower hole,
none on the turn .
140 . — IF THE FACING ON THE ROLL IS Cloth, it
must be independent of the breast facing, which
should be basted in and the forepart finished inde
pendent of the turn . For the roll itself, the facing
should be a strip of cloth across the piece, the width
should be padded nearly to the bottom of the roll, required,which should be basted on without any
well back and thick. The forepart men should not seam behind , and should be felled down on the
carry the staytape on above the bottom of roll, breast facing inside the roll. When the roll is cloth
leaving it to the collar man to sew it on to answer the edges are stitched raw .

HOW TO MAKE MORNING COATS ,

As a starting point in describing how to make much worn by gentlemen , and likely to remain in
the different descriptions of Morning Coats,we give favour for many years to come. We give the illus
one of our standard illustrations of the pin so that the departures from it we shall have
style, of what may be called a Dress Morning Coat, totration,
treat of may be better understood .
a style, with some slight variation in cut and detail,
 MORNING COAT. 51
141. - We commence with this style, which is tom , at the same time so managing that it is not
a Single Breasted Morning Coat,with a medium turn, tight on the edge that joins the skirt lining. To
not much cutaway,with a skirt ofmoderate length , secure that the linings of a Morning Coat are pro
without flaps,and pockets in the pleat. All the in perly put in, there should be no bagging ; the side
structions given for putting a Frock together will lining and breast facing should be basted in sepa
equally apply to this description of coat ; and those ! rately, and then the one felled or stitched on the
given for Single Breasted Frocks should be followed 1 other ; the skirt lining should also be basted on in
for the remainder, with the exception that thebreast dependent of the breast facing, the latter being first
firmly fastened down to the canvas and the waist
seam , and then the skirt lining felled over it. When
there is an inside breast pocket, a tacking through
all should be put at the front end of the pocket
mouth , to prevent its tendency to pull forward in
course of wear. It should be remembered that
Morning Coats are the garments exposed to most
hard wear, and that strength is required in their
construction ; it is the coat worn by persons in every
station , and except for dress, is never out of place.
From shortcomings in making , and from the fre
quency of torn pockets, and a button falling off
now and then, oftener than not the result of hard
wear, the general public have made up its mind that
tailors have fallen into the habit of sewing with a
“ red hot needle and burnt thread." Still, for a
good number of break downs that people suffer
under, they must blame themselves as much as the
tailor ; in his case it is too common to forget that
the labourer is worthy of his hire. Excluding those
in easy circumstances, all others in a station above
those who are obliged , or content to wear the “ cast
off 's ” of their betters , desire to make the best exter
nal show at the least cost ; presuming that if they
can only appear to belong to a class above their
own, they obtain brevet rank in the world 's estima
tion . To endeavour to advance is a laudable effort ;
merely to appear to have done so, is oftener attended
with injustice towards our fellows, in no particular
more so than in clothing, and always to the detri
ment of the tailor. We say this much in extenua
tion of shortcomings on the part of our poorer paid
brethren , and those engaged in the slop trade, for
we can hardly expect much care to be devoted to
either the quality or the arrangement of their work ,
dear life having to be maintained upon such a
miserable pittance, that the arms must be kept in
constantmotion to keep death at bay.
does not require so much working up. A point ! 142 . - IF THERE ARE FLAPs, the form of the
that requires great attention in a Morning Coat, is skirt must be taken into consideration in cut
to put in the facings so that the edge does not turn ting them . An ordinary Morning Coat skirt is
outwards, which is easily prevented by following intended to lay flat without any drapery ; it is
the instructions given in par. 123, and in the case of therefore usually cut a little round on the top edge,
the skirt facing, keeping it slightly tight on the which is reduced to a straight by the fullness held
edge towards the bottom , and tight across the bot- on . When there is a flap it should be put as tight
 52 HOW TO MAKE A
on the skirt as the amount of fullness intended ,so well round the ends. If these stays are carefully
thatwhen finished , flap and skirt appear quite plain ; put on , this description of pocket requires no other,
but although this is the case, the flap should not they are indeed better without ; there is nothing
appear tight on the bottom edge. To avoid this, | more ridiculous than the practice of loosely tacking
the flap should be cut straight along the top ,and | a piece of staytape round a pocket mouth , then
as in the case of the finished garment— the ends of putting the pocket in ,which is often done, and pre
the flap should run with front of skirt and plait, tending to protect it by a linen stay on the back ,
they should be cut a little less slant than the run | where it is absolutely useless , as it does not protect
they are required to take, as when the top of the the end of the pocket, but is really a burthen upon
flap is put to the top of theskirt, the ends will be it. What is wanted is to strengthen the cloth, so
drawn inwards, and the bottom would become that it can bear the burthen of the strain upon it,
loose, if the flap was not put on tight ; the whole and not to increase the substance of the pocket, so as
arrangement will be readily understood by referring to render it almost inevitable that the material in
to the diagram . After making the flap, taking care which it is putmust give way. So far as strength
is concerned, if a pocket mouth is properly
stayed , the tacking could be put in before
the pocket itself, and would be the better
for being so , as, if necessary , a new one
could be easier put in ; for the same rea
son, the pocket should not be tacked in with
the ends of the flap, nor sewn in across the
top with the skirt and flap linings, but
should be felled independently. In con
junction with these pockets read the in
to have the lining tight enough to prevent it turn structions in pars. 43 and 44, so far as
ing up at the corners , corresponding to the edges of
they apply . In all cases when there are pockets
the coat, baste it on the skirt, then put a stay be under flaps and no pleat pockets, a stay should be
hind that will take the hip and the back flap tack and put down the pleat, so as to give it its proper form
ing , and in front another that will take the tacking ;
hold it in its place.
then tack the ends of the flap, and sew across 144 . — The collars of Morning Coats are made
through flap lining and skirt, from tacking to tack up narrower in the fall than Frocks, and according
ing ; pare the lining away two seams breadth at as they are made, have less sewing in them ; in
the top, and to prevent its shifting, baste it to stout Meltons, particularly if the edges are double
the skirt. In seaming across the waist, do so sewn,we put no interlining except in the stand,and
through the flap only , which gives a thinner seam , consequently no sewing in the fall. All these points,
and after opening, serge the flap lining to the lower however, must be regulated by the practice of the
half of the seam , and with a thick half back stitch shop. The rolls of Morning Coats always turn to
fasten the skirt to the upper half, keeping the sew one particular point only , which is considerably
ing as close down to the seam as possible . When varied according to taste and fashion ; each change
there are flaps, the canvas at the bottom of the requiring a variation in the cut of the forepart and
forepart should be wide enough to come over the form of the collar. So that these alterationsmay
bemore clearly understood , we give three styles :
end of it, otherwise the forepart will hang loose in
front of the flap. Fig . 1, being the ordinary high buttoning Morning
Coat; Fig. 2, the medium , and Fig . 3 , the open or
143 . - IF THERE ARE POCKETS UNDER THF FLAP, long roll. The broken lines on Figures 2 and 3
after cutting, stays should be put on that will reach shew the outline of the gorge and forepart of Fig .
at least an inch and a half into the pocketmouth 1, and the run of its crease edge. Although the
at each end, the back one to take the pleat, and the alteration in the forepart does not belong to the
front one to come an inch in front of the flap tack making , we shew them so that the necessary change
ing and seam in the waist ; the back one also to of collar may be seen, and the fitting understood ,
seam in to within an inch of the pleat, then at the and with reference to which, these diagrams should
end to be turned up and seamed in with the back. be considered inf connection with the instructions
Then a stay of double linen, not staytape, should given in pars. 67 and 68. On regulating the length
be put along the bottom of the pocket mouth and of step, width , and the direction of collar end, con
 MORNING COAT.
sideration must be given to the effect on appear
ance, which may be considerably altered without at
all disturbing the actual width of collar ; if, for
example, we made the collar of Fig. 1, of the form
shewn by the dotted line, we should get a narrow,
puny-looking collar, although it remained in all
other respects the same ; and if we followed the
same course with Fig . 3, we should get a still worse
result. The collars of Morning Coats should be
seamed on according to the height of gorge,and the
height they are to button. Those of the form shewn when buttoned one side of the collar is carried up
FIC .3.
on Fig. 1, require to be kept tighter behind the
break and for a longer distance than Fig . 2, as
shewn by the waved line, and in Fig . 3, not at all.
It is absolutely required in Morning Coats that
there should be a good command over the crease
edge, along its whole length from the buttoning
point to the hollow of the neck ; to effect this, in
dependent of the tye padded in the turn by the fore
part men , it is a good plan to put on a piece of
staytape extending a couple of inches over each
side of the collar seam . In pressing off, even if it
53
is objected to, have the crease pressed down ; this
should be done and then pressed out again , so as
to give the turn its proper set.
145 . - In Double Breasted Morning Coats, no
other instructions are necessary than those given
for Single Breasted, except as regards the position
of buttons on the forepart. In these coats it is a
common occurrence for the buttons to be so put on
that they do notappear straight across,and so that
FIG .2 . FICJ.
or down ; this is occasioned by marking the holes
at equal distance a part on the edge, and then set
ting on the buttons to follow ; the error of which,
and the course that ought to be followed, will be
seen on examining the annexed diagram , which re
presents the button front portion of a double
breasted forepart. From 1 to 3 is the run of the
edge, which, being the segment of a circle, must be
longer than any line drawn within it ; A C, or true
front of breast being such line, is shorter than the
line D F ; not only so, but as the line D F com
 54 HOW TO MAKE A

mences at, and DE and E F are not equal, and are not the same as
gradually re those between A B and B C ; yetwhen a coat is on,
cedes from 2 with the holes and buttons so placed , they would
towards F, in allappear at equal distances. In marking theholes
relation to a and buttons the proper course is, if the cutter has
straight line, it
drawn a line corresponding to A C on the diagram ,
is of different which he should always do, to divide the distance
lengths at dif between these points by the number of holes, and
ferent parts, and then mark the holes and buttons at right angles
thus : the line with the line. If there is only a mark where the
A C is parallel top button is to stand, then draw a line on the
with 1, 2, and board, or a piece of cloth, which will correspond to
although A B 1, 2,and lay the forepart in such relation to it as
and B Care will produce the holes and buttons at right angles
equal distan with it, which can be pretty accurately guessed.
ces apart, and
the holes and 146 . - For variations in the modes of making
buttons are at up, the instructions given for Frocks equally apply
right angles to Morning Coats.
with the line
A C , the dis
tances between

HOW TO MAKE HUNTING COATS ,

147. - Hunting Coats, in their general form , case wherever shrinking and stretching arerequired ,
present a close resemblance to Morning Coats, and it must be done before putting together, the mate
require in putting together to be treated in the same rial being too unyielding in its nature to permit of
manner, but to be firmly sewn ; as, although scarlet its being done afterwards. This more particularly
is the most usual, whatever the colour, they are applies to stretching down of the sidebody, and the
always made from strong milled material, and are forepart across the waist, and the shrinking in of
exposed to heavy stress in wear. the skirt across the top.
148 . — But although resembling a Morning 152. — When the seams are lapped, and both
Coat, a Hunting Coat presents many points of dif rows of sewing are to go through them , the sleeve
ference ; taking it to be made of scarlet, the first tops should be drawn in with a double thread, which
thing is that no wax should be used , as it would should be put at such a distance from the edge as
blacken all the sewing. to come between the two sewings, the sleeves should
then be fitted to the scye, and the fullness pressed
149. — Then , still on account of the colour, away. After the sleeve is in , the drawing stitch
when there are metal shanks to the buttons, a piece should be cut in several places, so as to give free
of the same cloth must always be put under them , dom to the scye. It is, however, sometimes the
and the button sewn through all, the cloth being to stitch the second row , first on a piece of
practice
afterwards pared away close up to the sewing on thinner material, which should be a strip on the
of the button ; this prevents a black mark being left bias, then to serge the sleeve into this, and stitch
by the shank if buttons should have to be shifted .the scye on the edge through it. This method not
150 . — Then again , although scarlet shews a | only has the advantage of thinness, but enables the
white edge, they are often made up raw edged , and second row to be put in with greater ease ; when
double stitched ; if the edges are double they it is followed , the sleeve head should be drawn in
should be stoated. on the edge, and, as in the other case, the stitch cut
151. – Sometimes the seams are lapped, in which after sewing in .
 HUNTING COAT. 55

153 . - In consequence of the stoutness of the gram , the rows running in the direction shewn, so
material it is often necessary to prick the edges that they will break across at right angles with the
and the laped seams of Hunting Coats, but when crease edge. There is a small swivel tab on the
possible the sewing machine can be used with ad collar, of the form shewn on the diagram , and in
vantage for this work . such a position that its centre will fall on the centre
154 . - If the skirt pockets are notmadeentirely of the coat when buttoned ; this willdepend upon
of waterproof, the bottoms, for about three inches the size of step , which should not be so large as
up, have waterproof on the outside. There is usu in a Morning Coat, the ends of the collar being
broader and less cut off. When the tab is buttoned
ally a ticket pocket, which should either be pro back it should lay so as not to interfere with the
tected by a flap to go out and in, or the skirt por crease edge. When seams are lapped it sometimes
tion of the waist seam should be turned upwards, happens that the collar is put too short on , which
so that the pocket mouth will be above the line of arises from putting on only the same amount of
the seam . collar as if it was seamed on . But it should be re
155. - If of scarlet, twist should not be used to membered that as the gorge is hollow , the more
work the holes, but Mohair ; to facilitate the easy there is taken out of it the longer it becomes, so
working of which , draw it gently two or three times that if there are lapped seams,the width of a seam
between a piece of cloth , and if too thick pull a should be paired off the gorge, to make it the same
a strand out. Bar the holes twice and work as length as if the collar was seamed on ; then keep on
thick as the Mohair will permit, taking care not to the same quantity of fullness asif it was seamed on,
pull the hand too tight. Being made to button up, and it will be found that half an inch more goes on
the holes are put in at equal distances apart, the than if the gorge was not pared.
top one about an inch down. 158 .— The body and sleeves of Hunting Coats
156 . — The back piece of a Hunting Coatshould are lined with flannel ; there being also false sleeves
not be put on till after the coat is joined , should be of the same material as the linings. These are made
wide and deep, extending not less than three inches | up as to be about five inches deep when finished ;
below the back tacking, with the corners rounded the method formaking false sleeves is to cut them
off at the bottom ; it must not be sewn lower down about six inches deep , and the same width as the
than about an inch from the top, so as to be per sleeve of the part where they will be attached, then
fectly free below , the object being to protect the sew them up by running and cross stitching the
back when the skirts are open in riding. seam down on the double, turn in and cross stitch
the bottom , having first sewn together the
157. - Hunting Coats being made to button up, round ends of a piece of elastic of such a length as mode
the collarmust be cut accordingly ; for the method
rately
to follow see par 120. After the collar is cut, stretch under thegrip
to thewrist when stretched,which keep
into form basting it on the interlining, which cut or sleeves areinturn in cross-stitching round. After the
otherwise finished, put in the false sleeve,
keeping it about one inch and a half from the bot
tom of the sleeve, running it to the lining at about
half an inch from its top edge, and then cross stitch
its edge down to the lining.
159. - If in the course ofmaking, scarlet should
be dirtied, it can be cleaned with fine pipe- clay, and
stretch as required . Instead of being stitched and any ordinary stain can be removed by using the
padded, the collar is stitched in rows, as per dia - | juice of a lemon.

HOW TO MAKE A SHOOTING COAT,

160. - All the instructions given with reference and edges, provided that the direction given in par.
to Hunting Coats contained in pars. 151, 152, 154, i 151 is followed , and that the collar can be stitched
157, and 158, are also applicable to Shooting Coats, and padded in the ordinary way .
with the exception , thatwhether thematerial is stout 161. - WHEN THERE IS A HARE POCKET, it is put
or not, the machine can be used for lapped seanis ! inside the skirt and occupies its whole size ; the
 56 HOW TO MAKE A
mouth taking the line of the waist seam . Before and put to the other half of the pocket,making it
basting over the breast facing , sew firmly on the up raw edge or bagged at the top according to the
canvas a double linen stay, about an inch and a half nature of the material. If the edges are seamed or
wide, extending three inches up the canvas within | stoated , the skirt facing will have to bebasted along
half an inch of the front, and hanging loose about | with half of the pocket on the outside of the skirt,
two inches below the waist seam , then before in which case the pocket will have to be bagged
basting in the side lining put a similar stay under from behind and sewn, after which baste over the
the pleat, that will tack in with it, slanting forward lining ; make up the back part and top, and tack
at its lower end. Having put in these stays and the ends of the pocket through all, the back one
bastod over the breast facing and side lining, fell being the pleat tacking ; lastly , work two holes in
over them , along the waist seam , one half of the the top side of the pocket equal distances a part.
pocket, having cut it to fit to within an inch of | 162. - IF THERE IS LEATHER ON THE SHOULDER ,
the front and two inches of the side seam ; then fit
seam ;the
thentop,
it I beif not
the skirt facing, put a broad stay across puton
on both
after, ittheshould
coat isbeentirely
on the finished
left, and. should

HOW TO MAKE A
LOUNGE , CAMBRIDGE AND REEFER.
Require no separate directions, as those given for pocket, and the ends tacked , not lower down than
Morning Coats embrace all particulars applicable to the ends of the pocket mouth. If desirable, the
them ,except as regards pockets,which have either seam at top of flap can be cut through and opened ,
a welt, orare jeated, put under a flap, or with flap in which case proceed as directed in par. 142.
to go in and out, or are patched on. Whichever 166 . - IF THE FLAP IS TO GO IN AND OUT, in
way they may be put in , first baste a strip of linen
across from front edge to seam ; then baste on a making the flap, allow the lining to come above the
stay of linen from each end of the pocket mouth , top, seam the flap to the top side of the pocket
the back one slanting up to sew in with the mouth ,and to the lower half the pocket, or jeating,
side seam ; the other to sew on to the canvas ; then put on the tape round the ends, as directed in
then par. 164 ; cut the pocketmouth, open the flap seam ,
fasten the flap lining to its upper half,and finish in
163. — IF WITH A WELT, follow the directions accordancewith the two preceding pars.
given in par. 81.
167. - IF THE POCKETS ARE PATCHED ON, in
164. - IF THE POCKETS ARE JEATED, strips of the making up , put threads where they are to be, shew
material on the straight are seamed with a small
seam to the top and bottom of the pocket mouth cut ing the form of the pocket, the pocket itself being
through the linen , after which cut it and tack a larger than it is to appear when finished,more
or less according to the substance of the material,
piece of stayta pe close to the seaming , turning the
jeating inwards, side stitch below the seams, allow
leaving about an inch at the top to turn down to
ing the jeating to shew itself. Then baste the top form a facing. Put a stay under the inturn at top,
half of the pocket on to the linen , and fell the jeat
keeping it slightly tight and make up the top cor
responding to the edges ; then, if not to be raw
ing over it as a facing ; and in putting to theunder edged , turn the pocket in, baste on, fell the edge,
half turn the jeating down for the same purpose, and stitch behind.
felling the pocket along its bottom edge, and along
the seam at the top, and then tack the ends, no back 168 . - IF FLAP TO PATCH POCKET, it is made to
stay being needed . go in and out,and to secure the flap lining it must
be seamed on half an inch above the pocket, and
165 . — IF THE POCKETS ARE UNDER THE FLAP, in stitched below the seams through all ; or, if it is
making up, a thread is put where the top of the flap desired to avoid this stitching, the flap and lining
will come, then the pocket is put in as directed in can be cut in one piece, then seamed to across where
par. 143, the flap is then seamed on , turned down, its top edge would be, and the flap made up after
the flap lining felled along above the top of the wards.
 NORFOLK SHIRT, & c. 57

169. - IF THE COAT IS MADE UP WITHOUT LININGS, the ends of the pockets, inside. The pockets are
no precise directions can be given as to the mode to put in several ways, patched inside or out, or
follow , there being so many. Generally, all visible bagged and kept loose, according to the quality of
seams should be taped,and thumb pieces felled over the garment.

HOW TO MAKE A NORFOLK SHIRT,

170 , - As regards making up , is in much the į len shirt, with pockets , and opening all the way
same position as the three seamer without lining. | down the front. Departing from its most primitive
In its simplest form the Norfolk Shirt is a wide cut form ,we have the garment pleated back and front,
Sac with a belt round the waist ; the front being and with or withouta yoke. When there are pleats
made up with a pleat like the front of a shirt, and and no yoke, theymust be so arranged that those of
to button up, with either a stand or a fall collar , back and forepartmeet at the shoulder seam . There
and without any lining whatever, the sleeve being are commonly two breast pockets, and when there
gathered on a band like a shirt ; there is sometimes are pleats, they are put up and down in the first
also sewn onmorethenor
strap neither
menta being shoulde r, thea whole
less than gar ' pleat, which, to that extent, is a fixture.
stout wool-

HOW TO MAKE OVERCOATS .

TOP FROCK.
171. - In Frock Overcoats all the instructions | ing ; damping may be left till the finish , butmust
given about Frocks equally apply , as also all the be very light. When there are no pockets in the
extras detailed , with such differences and additions pleat the latter must be made up as directed in
as follows: par. 143.
172. - IF THERE ARE POCKETS' IN THE WAIST 173 . - IF THE EDGES ARE PIPED previous to
SEAM, first baste a piece of linen across the skirt basting over, pare the edge to within about a six
where the pocket is to be, allowing an inch over at teenth of the staytape. Having previously damped
each end, and keeping it as tight as the amount of it, cut the material to be used , which is generally
fullness intended to be kept on, which then shrink thin Melton , into strips, on the bias if possible, if
away ; now stoat on the pocket facing , after which not, on the cross ; and baste in the cord, which
should be regulated in size to the thickness of the
seam across the waist, in doing which also seam on
the back pocket facing. In pressing the waist, let material the coat is made from ; then, without
the seam of the back facing lay on the double, up basting, thickly fell, as privately as possible, the
wards, so that after the pocket is in , its mouth will piping to the edges, keeping the edge close up to
appear to be part of the waist seam . After stitch the cord . After felling, turn over, take the basting
ing along the edge of the pocket mouth, put in the out of the piping, and pare the under side of it
tackings, which should be barred according to the away nearly up to the felling, then baste the piping
substance of the material, the stay behind to extend down along all the edges, keeping it tight back, so
far enough back to take in the pleat tacking, and as to drive the edge close to the cord and conceal
the front one to take the bottom button of forepart ; the sewing , this basting must remain till the edge
now put in the pocket, tacking its top side well up has had a press. Now baste over, and in felling the
under the facing ; fell the latter on it, then the other side of the edge, where there is cloth , keep it
under half of the pocket on the waist seam , and slightly back, so that it will lay close up to thecord ,
along the bottom edge of its facing. If the pocket as in the first sewing. If the edge is to be stitched
is of chamois , which is sometimes the case , the behind the piping, no further directionsare required
pocket mouth must be pressed before the pocket is than those given in par. 110 , for cordingand stitch
put in , as leather will not stand more than smooth | ing behind.
 11
58 HOW TO MAKE
174. — IF THERE ARE SILK BREAST FACINGS, the every possible position, and not comfortable in any.
same course is followed as with Frocks, except that | These defects can easily be avoided by proper care.
if thematerial is thick , an extra layer of Demett It is a common practice to cut collars for Overcoats
should be put under. after the same manner as for others, and then in
175 . - IF THERE ARE QUILTED LININGS, see makingtent.
up to stretch the fall to the required ex
Instead of doing this, the collar should be
par. 17. cut as shewn by the diagram . Suppose the ordi
176 . - IF THE EDGES ARE BOUND OR FLAT nary crease edge to be represented by the line
BRAIDED,and thematerial is too thick or stout to AB ; instead of following that line, so soon as we
allow the instructions given in par. 103 being fol reach opposite X, the point to which the collar is
lowed, then the edges must be previously sewn to - | fitted , drop the line down to CD, or sewing on
gether ; this should be donewith a thin back stitch, edge, following as a matter of course ; then in
and the edge should be pressed before the binding making, from X backwards, stretch the stand so
or braid is sewn on . In flat braiding an overcoat, that C will lay on the line A B ; this will give a
arrange it at the collar erd ,as shewn on the diagram | long fall edge without its being stretched, and one
in the succeeding paragraph . which cannot therefore be afterwards affected by
177. - Although in theory all Overcoats button the weather. Many,no doubt, will say : What does
up, in the Top Frock there is only an apparent , it matter which is stretched ? We will explain the
reason : the collars of Overcoats are
exposed to the influence of all wea
thers, and, consequently, to a consi
derable amount of damp and wet, the
certain result of which is, that what
has been stretched will shrink again,
though not fully to its original state,
still sufficient to spoil the fit and ap
pearance of a collar, which, it must
be remembered, has nothing to hold it
in its place on the fall edge. The
stand is entirely differently circum
stanced, it is not exposed , and is
firmly held in its place by being sewn
to the gorge. A collar made up to
the covering point after this method,
even if the outside is stretched , will
stand better in wear than onemade
in the ordinary manner, but it is
better to avoid stretching the fall of
the outside if possible, more particu
ability to do so, in consequence of the shortress of larly velvet.
the turn , they are however as close at the top as if178. - IF THERE IS A VELVET COLLAR, instead of
stretching it to meet the length of fall edge, it is
they actually buttoned up. Being short in the turn ,
considerable length is required on the fall edge, best to cut it through the middle, as with a cloth
along with a moderate command over the front. | collar, but, instead of seaming , turn in the edges
To meet these conditions, the collar should be cut and stoat them together, then the join will be
and made up differently to that of a body coat ; the
necessity of attention to this point is evident, from scarcely visible. As the collars of Overcoats are
usually exposed to weather and wear, a velvet collar
the many lamentable specimens of collar making
we see on Overcoats, things which, in their shifting should be stitched , by hand ormachine, off the edge
capabilities, appear to be endued with life, and to after being otherwise finished .
suffer fearful tortures, twisting and turning into
 OVERCOATS. 59

CHESTERFIELDS,
179 . - The directions given in par. 166, as re Hunting Coats in par. 157,and if there is a tab, the
gards pockets,apply equally to Chesterfields, except directions in the same paragraph will apply. But
when a Chesterfield is intended to button up, first
that in addition , the ticket pocket is often put in press the crease edge so that it will turn to a point,
front of the buttons, so as to be out of sight when
the coat is buttoned , but so that the finger and and then press it out again . If the material is only
thumb can have access to it between two of the slightly inclined to stretch , a strip of silk should be
holes without unbuttoning thecoat. Thedirections seamed in with the collar across theback . When a
given in par. 125 will also serve for that of a Ches Chesterfield is lined with Tweed, or other stoutma
terfield , except, in consequence of the fuller size of terial, the linings should be basted in first, the edge
well fastened down to the canvas, then the facing
the garment, the fly must be broader. basted over and stitched above the lining. If there
180. - The form of collar will follow , both as are lapped seams, see par. 152 ; and if there are
regards fittingand making up, the instructions given strapped seams, follow the directions in the follow
in par. 177, but it will be stitched as directed for , ing paragraphs.

SACS ,
181. - A Sac being only a wider cut and heavier inch over the pocket mouth , then put in a bar tack
garment of the same description as a Chesterfield, ing, and turn the stay back so that its double edge
all the directions given in the preceding paragraphs will be along the tacking ; the pocket can now be
for the latter will apply , with the addition that the put in as directed in par. 143, then put on the stay
seams are sometimes strapped . As this is a garment tape. According to this method such portion of
for the making of which the machine can be use the canvas as reaches the pocket is worked in
fully employed, we will so direct how to make it ; with it.
we will suppose also that the seams are strapped . | 183. - A Sac being a heavy garment made from
182. - After marking and fitting up, stoat up | heavy material, instead of staytape, a strip ofdouble
the cut and baste in the canvas, baste on stays as linen is best for the edge, and, as a means of hold
directed in par. 162, then cut them along by the ing it firm , it should be wide enough to take the
pocket mouth , but without cutting the material it second row of stitching.
self, and baste a facing on to the lower half, letting 184 . - If there is a whole back , which is usual
its edge pass above the line of the pocket, now turn
over and chalk along the lower half of the pocket in Sacs, the right forepart can be finished, except
mouth for the first line of sewing, and also for the joining the sideseam and shoulder, the sleeve being
second, if the eye is not a sufficient guide ; parallel so far put in by basting to a false back scye ; with
with the line of the sewing,a firm basting must be parts. this exception, our instructions apply to both fore
put in to prevent any creeping under themachine,
and the same with all parts that have to be sewn 185 . — But as the back must be first joined to
by it ; also as a means of binding together, and so the left side, the slit, if there is one,must be made
prevent shifting ; after basting, dampall parts to be up with it, and no matter what the material, is
sewn by the machine. Now baste up the flap, always made up raw edged , otherwise the seam of
having cut it deep enough to allow a sufficient the button catch would shew ; this is usually done
quantity to take the two rows of stitching to pass with a fly, which should be lined and faced with a
up under the pocketmouth. Then machine the flap thinner material on the inside, the whole slit being
and bottom of pocket mouth ; pare the facing of faced round as part of the facings with the same
the top side down to the stitching, after which baste material as the coat itself. Having stoated on the
in the flap and machine the top and round the ends. | button catch , put a linen stay round the top of the
For the straight tackings at the ends baste a piece slit and baste in the fly facing ; the edge is then
of single linen on the back so as to comeabout an ready for the machine.
 60 HOW TO MAKE

186 . - Now , on the assumption that the seams seam . This being done, baste the fly in its place so
are strapped , serge the sideseam , cut and baste on that the linings can be turned back , and the fly
the strapping. The strappingmust be cut perfectly machined behind ; then turn the linings back again ,
even and to the width required, so as not to need basting them in their proper place, close behind the
any pareing after being sewn on . The strapping facing, turn the facing back and baste the loose
must be crossway of the wooland basted on slightly edge of the lining down to the canvas, after which
easy ; instead of basting it on with a straight set baste the facings over, and round the edges, ready
forestitch, let the stitch lay across,which will hold for themachine. After using the machine, finish as
it firm in its place. directed for Chesterfields, except for putting in the
187. - The next step is to fit the facings and sleeves, for which see par. 152.
linings, the linings being usually of Tweed or horse 188. - In making the sleeves, strap the hind
cloth , the facings running round the bottom , and arm first, and sew one side of the strapping down
being about two or three inches wide. First, fit the the forearm , so that, after the sleeve is together,
lining at the sideseam , and temporally baste back there will only remain one side of the forearm
and forepart lining together, then lay the lining fair strapping to sew , which can easily be done on any
on the forepart, it being understood that we are machine.
dealing with the left side, to which the back is 189.- The collar in form will follow that laid
joined , fit the facing, baste its edge on the lining, | down by the diagram in par. 177 ; and in themaking
and baste the fly facing inside that of the coat We and putting on, the instructions given in par. 157,
are now ready to use the machine for the inside except that there is usually a large tab, with two
edges of the facings, the inside and outside edges holes, sewn at one end on to the collar. In other
of the fly in the slit, and the strapping for the side- | respects, finish as directed in Chesterfields.

DRIVING COAT,
190 .-- Driving Coats should be treated the same
as Sacs, and generally the instructions given in the pocket in the left cuff. The collar should be cut
straight, or nearly so, on the sewing on edge, as
preceding paragraphs for Sacs will apply. For con these coats are made to button close up.
venience, it is sometimes the practice to puta ticket

THE ULSTER ,
191. - All the directions, except as to the fly , , and sometimes with holes and buttons only. There
given for Chesterfields, equally apply to Ulsters, are frequently two sets of pockets in front, so placed
which in form is a long wide Sac, with an extra that the hands can conveniently reach the one when
long slit behind , and a belt at the waist. Apart standing, and the other when sitting, and, as in
from its extra length and size, it is the belt that Driving Coats, a ticket pocket is occasionally put
constitutes the special feature of the garment ; it is in the sleeve. Ulsters occasionally have hoods,
cut so as to make up about two inches wide and made in various forms, either sewn in with the
quite straight ; for thinness, it should be lined with collar, or made to take off and on . The forms in
a thin material,and the edges madeup to correspond which the garmentis made are so various that it is
with those of the coat. The belt is usually fastened impossible to give any precise directions,we,there
to the centre of the back and has two holes in the fore, can only refer to the general rules laid down
left end , and two sets of buttons on the right, one for Chesterfields, Sacs and Driving Coats ; the
set on the edge, the otheraboutthree inches behind . Ulster being a sort of combination of the whole
The slit behind is sometimes made up with a fly , | four.
 OVERCOATS, & c. 61

INVERNESS CAPES ,
192. - An Inverness Cape is a Sac without | the one being to keep the sideseam of back and
sleeves, as a substitute for which a front wing or forepart in their intended relative positions ; the
half cape is provided , it being sewn to the back , other, is properly to secure the collar ends, with
and in with the collar. It is usual to make up this which is embodied the front of the Cape ; a piece
garment without linings, the pockets being patched of double linen should be put in the front edge of
on, the facings coming as far back as will take the the cape, passed up an inch at the top, be seamed
buttons. Following generally the instructions given in with the collar, and then fastened down on it, to
for the four preceding garments, there are only two which should be sewn the hook and the eye,and then
points calling for special reference in the Inverness, I a pricking put in behind.

CLOAKS,
193 . - Cloaks do not require much special refer- shoulder, with hook and eye in front. When it is
ence, their cutand make varying very considerably simply straight and drawn in , if of cloth , it will re
from those consisting of only a straight piece of | quire no under layer, see par. 18 ; if of other mate
cloth gathered round the gorge, as directed in par. rial, it must be treated according to its substance,
18, to the full circular. Although mostly plain , but in all cases four double threads should be used ,
some have sleeves and capes, others capes only ,and as there is a heavy weight to sustain , each run in
some have hoods ; but however they may differ in at about quarter of an inch apart from the other, so
other respects, they have all a broad collar, cut that the space occupied by the whole of the piping
straight, that will either stand or lay over the I would be aboutan inch in width .

MORNING GOWNS,
194. - Dressing gowns are mostly cut in the
form of a Sac, with a roll collar, wide enough to
admit of its doubling well over; but sometimes
they are cut like a large Top Frock, either with an
ordinary or a roll collar; the material is usually
flannel, plain or printed, and sometimes shawl pat
terned Cashmere. Whatever its form , there are
cross pockets in front, put in as directed for
Lounges in par. 164. Dressing Gowns are always !
interlined and quilted as described in par. 17 . If
made in the Sac form there is a cord at the waist,
firmly sewn at the centre of the back , and supported
at the sides by a loop, made of the samematerialas
the garment, through which it can fairly run . The
edges are sometimes bound, but mostly made up
plain : that is, either felled or stitched on the
double.

HOW TO EXAMINE A COAT,

195 ,- How to examine a coat with a view of workmanship, if this necessary condition is not
judging themerits of its workmanship, for the sake | complied with the taste expended has been thrown
of saving time and to make sure that all particu- away. Therefore, before the artistic appearance of
lars are correct, should be done under a regular and a garment is looked at, it should first be seen that
unvarying system ; the examination passing from all other requirements are correct, the first of which
themost to the least important points. Many are is, that the collar should be long enough ; to decide
often satisfied with a glance at the style of the this, it is not sufficient simply to look at it on the
lapel and set of the collar ; if they are so far pleased hand , as so examined , it may appear perfect, and
they look no further ; but although it must be yet be too short on . To test the length of a collar,
allowed that beauty of form is evidence of good hold the coat up by the collar ends, with the out
 62 HOW TO MAKE
side towards you, and the collar turned up ; consider putting in and making of the sleeves, and see that
the crease edge as a line over which the coat is thebuttons are firmly sewn on. Now feel down the
hung ; if from the crease edge the coat appears as edges of the lapels to see that the staytape is close
if it hung full on it, the collar is too short ; but, if to the stitching ; after which lay the coat down in
clean and fair, the collar is then long enough . The side out and see that all the linings are fairly and
next point is to see that the shoulder seams are fair, properly put in ,and pass the hand into the pockets
to test which take hold of the bottom of both back to see that they are properly sewn and not caught
scyes and lay the coat flat on the board with the any way, then put the hand down the sleeves to see
double edge of the back towards you, in which posi that they are not twisted. Lastly , examine style of
tion any difference will be at once detected . To front and workmanship . By following this method
see that the sideseams are correct, take hold of them no part escapes observation , and all are examined
by the top and hold the coat up, see that the backs in the order of their importance. 1st. Length of
hang fair across, that the round is properly pressed collar ; 2nd. Putting together ; 3rd . Equal length
away, that the waist seams are opposite each other , of collar and la pels ; 4th . Linings and pockets ;
the buttons at the same level, and the back tacking 5th . Style and workmanship . Wedo not think that
fair between, then see that a stay has been put in too much importance can be attached to a proper
edge of back . If the waist seamsare not opposite examination of work ; the want of it is certain to
each other, the side seams are not put on to the lead to carelessness . We could illustrate this by
same length . Now lay the coat flat down and see almost incredible examples , such as a coat being
that the waist seams, pleats and skirts are all right. made and passed, with four holes and buttons on
After which double the collar by its centre, and lay one forepart and five on the other ; one or more
ing the tops of the lapel and ends of the collar to buttons left off ; pocketsnot sewn and sleeve linings
gether, see that both sides of the collar and the twisted . Although our directions apply to a Frock
lapels are the same length , and that the holes in the Coat, their order is equally applicable to all other
lapel are opposite each other. Then examine the descriptions.

MISCELLANEOUS ,
TO WORK HOLES WITH DOUBLE TWIST. | the pile, if it should happen to be laid ; we did not
196 . - In very heavy materials, when extra do so, on theground thatsuch an occurrence ismostly
strength is required, as in Reefing Jackets for accidentthe result of carelessness. As however such an
rough wear, and a very strong hole is wanted , it is is liable to occur, we will give what we
better that it should be worked with a double thread have found the best remedy. The thing always to
of finer twist, rather than with one thread of very avoid with Velvet is the use of water, as it softens
stout. The difficulty of doing this consists in keep ituseandtwospoils its appearance ; we should , therefore,
ing the two threads of equal length during the pro irons, both laying on their side, one just
cess of working,which can be easily overcome by off the burn , the other moderately warm ; on the
running the one thread through the other, thus : hot one lay a piece of fineish Tweed on the double ,
after the needle is threaded lay the ends level,and and as soon as it is thoroughly hot, wet it as it lays
beginning at the end furthest from the needle, pass on the iron , but not too much ; this will at once
the needle through one of the threads, and continue raise a strong , hot steam ; now lay the back of the
repeating the process until the needle end is reached , velvet close down on the Tweed for a short time,
when the threads will have become so run one into after which immediately lay it on the other iron
the other that they cannot become unequal in and brush up the pile. By this method the velvet,
working. or that portion of the garment which it is on, is
left perfectly dry. It should be understood that
HOW TO RESTORE THE PILE OF VELVET. the pile of velvet is laid by wetting, and what is
wanted instead is the driving power of steam , and,
197. — When we have given directions for using consequently , that it should be applied as hot and
Velvet, we have not said anything about restoring I sharp as possible.
 TROUSERS. 63

HOW TO CUT AND SEW FUR. previously with the iron, or before they have been
198 . - Although not often , tailors have some wet a sufficient time, it willbecome an impossibility
times to deal with Fur, we therefore give a few | to remove them . The same rule should be followed
directions for its cutting and sewing. Fur should with all outlets in the case of alterations, for if once
always be cut on the flesh , or wrong side, with a pressed without being wetted , the old sewing can
sharp knife, and it is best not to lay it down to cut never be got out.
it, but to hold it between the first and second finger THE USE OF SOAP.
and the thumb and third finger, as all danger of 200 . - Having now finished thesubject ofcoats,
cutting the fur itself is then avoided . When it is | we shall say a few words on the use of soap, which
necessary to join fur, the flesh edges are serged to hasbeen only once mentioned by us,and only to the
gether, in doing which none of the fur should be extent that it is directed to be used in par. 126 can
sewn in , or rather dragged in with the stitch, but we approve its use, that being so is the exception
should be carefully pushed back with the needle. that proves the rule, for there it has none of the
When fur has to be felled down an edge from which disadvantages for which we condemn it. Its only
it recedes, it should be turned back, felled on the recommendation is, that it imparts a smoothness of
wrong side and then turned back again ; this hides appearance, which is counterbalanced by many
the skin edge and makes the fur curl over it. serious faults ; wherever used, if the garment is
HOW TO REMOVE MARKS AND CREASES IN folded , it gives an ugly , broken crease ; it draws
CLOTH . damp and imparts a soft, oily feel ; if a garment in
which it is used gets wet, the smooth appearance is
199. - It is often the case that the end of a at once destroyed, and the soap becomes like mud ,
piece of cloth has on it the marks of the board on slipping and sliding in any direction ; finally, if a
which it was folded, as also a number of creases ; garment is to be altered in any part where it isused,
these, from a neglect of a simple remedy, are often it is impossible, from the hardness imparted, that it
very difficult to get out. The proper course is, can be properly done. These are its positive faults,
when there are marks or creases, to wet them at the besides which it has the negative ones of being used
commencement of the job ; if they are smoothed as a substitute for sufficient sewing and pressing.

HOW TO MAKE TROUSERS.

201. - Although it may have appeared to some | pocket mouths,and the turn up of the under as well
that in our directions for garments already treated as that of the top side ; for although it often happens
of, we have spoken rather authoritatively, it hasnot that trousers are not turned up exactly to the marks,
been our intention to suppose that the methods we their being in is a good guide for basting up both
lay down must be closely followed , for we know bottoms alike. If of a ravelly, or a washing mate
full well that in tailoring there are a variety of ways rial, allthe edges of the seamsmust be serged, which
of accomplishing the same result. If such is the must be done thick , and the hand should not be
case with coats, still more is it so with trousers, for pulled tight. Previous to basting up, if the mate
although a simpler garment, from the demand for rial will spot, it should be damped , which will be
comfort, and opposite qualities, they are subject to more convenient and certain, as it can then be done
more experimentation in cutting and making than on the double , and flat, and will save time. In
coats, or any other garment. Butwhatevermay be basting up,all cross marking threads, in tops and
the particular mode of putting together in any undersides,must bekept opposite each other,and to
given case, it is obvious that we can only deal with prevent any doubt of this being done, they should
the garment as being put fairly together, without be left in till the job has passed.
either stretching or shrinking in any particular | 203. - Supposing that we are treating of a pair
direction or degree. of plain trousers, fly front, without either pockets,
202. - In marking up, all cross marks should waistbands, or brace buttons, the first step is the
be carefully put in the lengths of all slits, flys and seaming up the separate sides, which should be
 _

64 HOW TO MAKE

done moderately thick without pulling the hand keep the turn over full between the two bastings.
tight, so as to leave them freely elastic. Except Do not put an iron on the bottoms before they are
forwashing materials , for which thread should be felled , and after felling do not take the basting out
used, all woollen goodsare best sewn with silk of a of the edge before pressing. Thereason weinstruct
corresponding substance to themselves . In cutting bottomsto be made up in this manner is, to prevent
the fly catch, cut it slightly more hollow than the themark of the turn up, a very common fault, from
front of the trousers , so as to give length to the shewing itself in the course of wear; if an upturn
outside edge, the importance of which will be seen is pressed before felling , it is generally felled too
when we come to sewing on the fly buttons, but in flat, and if the least tight, is pulled as it were into
seaming on keep it quite fair. After seaming the the outside, leading to a certainty of its shewing ;
fly catch, put a linen stay on both sides of the bnt if our plan is followed , the hand pulled just
trousers, reaching from the leg seam to about an home in felling , and the bottom first pressed on the
inch into catch and fly , lightly cross-stitching it inside, take out the bottom bastings and press dead
down on its outer edge. Then if there is to be a | outside, without a press cloth , which, however, may
fly lining, baste it in and fell the front edge over it, be used in damping off. If the trousers are of a
stitching the edge or leaving it “ boss ;" if there is washing material the bottoms will require to be
no fly lining turn in the front,and stitch or not as taped , one edge of the tape or binding being felled
desired. Now make the fly, fitting it so that its on to the upturn, leaving it just over its edge, the
edge will lay just inside the turning in of the front. other edge being felled on to the trousers, in the
With a “ spare " open the sideseam at the top , and samemanner as if it was the edge of the upturn it
then baste along the top a piece of fine canvas or self. In washing materials, seat and crutch pieces
double linen, stitching through it about an inch and and cuts should also be taped . Now put the button
a half down from the top , after which bind the tops, on at front of waist, keeping it a seam width back
or turn them in as desired . Now open the seams, on the trousers side of the seam , not setting it on
press the tops and fly, and shrink the underside at the catch as is sometimes the practice, the proper
theham ; if the form of the bottom requires it, the rule being to take as much off one side as the other
upturn can also be stretched, although we think - an inturn off the left, a seam off the right, hole
that that is best done with the teeth . After pres back on the left, button same on the right. Next
fell in the waist lining ; then press off : lastly, put
sing, baste in the fly and stitch down at the back of on the fly buttons, keeping the extra length of the
the holes, from the bottom hole running gradually left side between the bottom hole and the fly tack
off to where the tacking is to be, and put in the top
hole ; then make up the button catch , first basting ing ; this gives a clean sit to the fork, but would
a piece of linen down the line of the buttons ; then leave it contracted if the button catch was not cut
line, allowing the lining, on the single, to overlap so as to give sufficient length on its outer edge, to
the seam , stitch at the back of the seam through all meet the extra length of left side, and the whole
would lose its effect if the catch was put long on .
and fell the lining on the edge. Now join , first
In dress trousers silk trimming should be used
seaming very thick and slack , from the bottom of instead of cotton . If the dress is on the right side
the fly to the leg seam , allowing the left side up instead of the left, the fly must then be reversed .
wards to be slightly the longest, then turn overand
tack the fly, allowing it and the catch to lay fair, 204. — IF THERE IS A CRUTCH LINING it is best
then turn back again and seam up the seat. The felled on each side before joining, or if not felled ,
next step is to make up the bottoms, turning them basted, and the one half felled overthe other after ;
up to the threads, if no length has been given, but if extra large it also requires stitching to the leg
if there has, turn the trousers out and mark the seam ; if of stout cotton, instead of turning it in ,
length ; in basting up, adhere to the run of the turn it back and fell round , so as to leave the edge
threads, unless they evidently require correction. single, and to prevent ravelling notch it round.
One point should be attended to when the leg lays 205 . — IF THERE ARE WAISTBANDS, either in
flat, doubled at the instep , see that the sideseam is
a trifle longer than the leg seam . Bottoms should front or the whole length , a piece of linen or thin
be basted twice round, once thick on the edge, and canvas should be seamed in with them , the seam
standing in the place of the stitching across when
then on the top of the inturn ; put the bottom bast | there are no bands.
ing in first, which will shew the proper position of
each part of the upturn and so prevent its being in 206 . - IF THERE IS A BUCKLE AND STRAP, a stay
any way twisted ; in putting in the second basting should be felled on, coming an inch beyond where
 TROUSERS. 65
the straps will be sewn down, to seam in with the 210 . - IF THERE ARE Cross POCKETS, a linen
sideseam and the waistband , or if no band , to take
stay should be basted right across the top side,
the stitching across the top. If the material will seaming in with the sideseam as low down as the
not stand raw edged the straps should be bound, as bottom of the pocket mouth, and up to the top,
turning in , unless the material is very thin , renders then put in the pocket as directed in par. 164.
them thick and clumsy. The edge of the buckle, | When there is a hole in cross pockets, follow the
according to the size of the trousers, should be from directions given in the preceding paragraph.
one to two inches from the seat seam , and the strap 211. - IF THERE ARE FROG POCKETS, in the old
should be just long enough to pass under thebuckle
bar. When there are pockets the straps must be fashioned style,with waistbands, and no top welt
so adjusted in putting on as not to pull them open. cut on, one must be seamed on , as there also must,
if there are no waistbands and no welt cut on. A
207. - IF THERE ARE BRACE BUTTONS, stays of ' stay should be put that will take top and side of
double linen must be put over the stay put
through the tops, and be firmly sewndown
to it. In the case of the back buttons, a
stay, running to a point, should be put,
coming about three inches down the seat,
and be seamed in with it. The position
of the buttons must be regulated by the
size of the trousers and their cut, except the
back ones, which should not be far apart.
208 . - IF THERE IS A CASH POCKET, it
is put in the space between the front and
side brace buttons, the mouth being hol
lowed out of the top, being placed behind
the pocket mouth , which is about four
inches long. If there is a watch pocket,
it is put in in the same manner, themouth
being about three inches wide. 00

209. - IF THERE ARE SIDE POCKETS, a

back and front stay should be seamed in
with the sideseam , and a pocket facing
seamed or stoated to the top side, the out
let turning forward to form the back
hand facing. The back stay should be felled down the pocket mouth and seam in with the sideseam ,
behind the pocket mouth, stitched off the edge on at the back of which a short stay should also be
the top side, and strong bar tackings put in at top seamed in with the seam and the back pocket
and bottom , see par. 9, the bottom one slanting
downwards, in the direction the hand will take
when inserted, which will prevent the end of the - - - -

tacking from being worn away or splitting. In

putting in the pocket fell the facing over it, and in
sewing it, unless the material is too thick , bag it ;
the material inside then acts as a protection to the
sewing. If too thick to bag, back stitch round out
side and serge the edge over ; if of leather, back
stitch and pare close. When there is a hole in
side pockets it is put either through the top side or
the top side pocket facing is turned into a blind
fly , being lined at the back with linen, and the hole
worked in it, the facing and outside being stitched i facing, which should be cut to fit, the whole when
together round the space occupied by the hole. I finished assuming the form shewn by the diagram ;
 66 HOW TO MAKE
but if there is no waistband there would be no stitched behind, in which case the stitching should
seam forward from the pocket tacking, or if the be outside the inturn , and between the seam and
top welt was cut on there would be no seam from the stitching the material should be kept slightly
the same tacking backwards. When there are no full, so as to give it a swelled appearance when
waistbands, a common method of making up a finished : to procure this, in pressing off , the edge
frog pocket is shewn in diagram a, in which the of the iron should be run close up to the seam to
top is cut down the required distance at b, usually prevent its being flat. In rare cases trousers have
about an inch ; then the back hand facing, c, is notched or raised side seams, to make which, first
fitted so as top and side to take the place of the | turn in the top side from three-eighths to half an
same part of the trousers, and to come under the inch, then side stitch off a full eighth, and after
pocket mouth , as shewn by the broken line ; the the trousers are basted up seam close to the stitch
top side is then turned in, faced, and stitched off
| ing ; in pressing the seam the stitching must be
the edge and the pocket put in as in the other style.
placed in a notch, that is, in a notch board proper,
The stay of this pocket should be long enough to or the grooved edge of an ordinary sleeve board .
come under the stitching across the top of the front
| In finishing off, if required, damp down each side
of the trousers, which extends from the end of the of the raised seam .
pocket to meet the top of the fly. After pressing | 215 . - IF THERE IS BRAID DOWN THE SIDESEAM ,
the seams fell on a hip stay , make up the top of the and there are no directions to the contrary, the back
pocket mouth , and put in the tackings as shewn on
the diagram . Put the hole in the corner of the edge should be placed at the sideseam ,and to give
frog mouth to run straight, in which direction it the braid a thicker appearance, a strip of thin ma
will keep buttoned , but not if it is put either up terial should be basted under it, and thebraid should
and down or slant, in either of which positions the be stitched, not felled on, felling making it look
slightest strain would pull the button out. too flat.
212. - IF THERE ARE POCKETS BEHIND, they are 216 . - IF THE BOTTOMS ARE FACED, which is done
put in with a welt, at a convenient distance from to preserve them in a particular form , the bottoms
the top, the front being about an inch from the are first pressed into the form desired , which may
sideseam . Before putting in the pocket, a linen be done after seaming , providing the shrinking is
which case a broad board should be used ,
stay running in to the top should be basted across so as toin take
slight,
the whole bottom , and the workman
the underside.
may see whathe is about. If,however,the shrink
213 . — IF THERE IS A FRENCH BEARER it woulding is any more than slight, the top side must be
be of the form shewn by the solid line on the dia pressed into form before the trousers are basted
gram in par. 211, and consists of two parts, there up ; in doing which the top side must be laid on
being a tab fastened at the sideseam , and for thin the double, the crease being straight down to where
ness sometimes made of cotton, on the edge of the instep will fall, and the form must be imparted,
which the buttons are set ; to form the other por asmur h as possible by shrinking in on the crease ,
tion , in the end of which the holes are placed, the stretching at the seams no more than can be
button catch is continued to meet the tab. Snug avoided. As the crease does not fall in the centre,
ness being the object of the French bearer it should to clear away the material it may sometimesappear
be kept half an inch tighteracross than the outside. necessary to stretch the leg more than the side
214 . - IF THE SIDESEAMS ARE LAPPED the put seam ; this, however, should not be done, but the
ting together must be so regulated thatthe trousers intervening looseness shrunk away on a press cloth .
are no wider than if they are seamed ; if there are Why stretching should be resorted to in the least
no directions to the contrary, the top side must be degree is, that it has always a tendency to shrink
turned in a seam 's width inside the mark, and the back again to its normal length, thus destroying
turned in edge laid the same width over themark the imparted form , and making the garment short.
ing threads of the under side. When trousers are It is to counteract this that bottomsare faced , either
lapped in this manner the turning in of the top side with the same material, canvas, or horse hair; in the
must always be sufficient to come under the stitch - latter case the hair running up and down ; whatever
ing, whatever may be its distance from the edge, the material, the facing should be fitted to the same
and if there is a stripe the stitching must be down form as the front of the bottom , and be cut and
its inside edge. Sometimes in lapped seams the seamed down in the same place as the crease in the
outside edge is lightly seamed down, and then top side of the trousers. Then baste in the facing ,
 TROUSERS. 67

so that it comes to the bottom , and that the upturn pricked close to the edge on it, the tabsare either of
fells over it. In basting in , first, on the inside lay | leather or the same material as the trousers, with
the facing on the double and baste half the seam on holes in the edge of one, and buttons on that of the
the crease , then turn out and baste each way from other, one, two, or three, according to the width of
the crease towards the side and leg seams respect the tab. After making, they should be basted on
ively, taking care that the facing is perfectly smooth . and fitted on a boot. In all other respects the direc
Then turn back again to the inside, and pare the tions given for faced bottoms in par. 216 , apply to
facings at the sides even in width at the top with trousers that button under the foot. Another form
leg and sidescam , but coming an inch or an inch of trouser bottom which requires to be specially
and a half over both at the bottom ; at the sides, noticed is the French , which comes over the boot in
stitch down to the seams ; bind across the top with various degrees, and coming under the foot without
a strip of cotton ,which turn back and fell down on buttons, the boot being put on before the trousers.
the trousers, pulling the hand slack , so as to leave Bottoms in this style involve much stretching and
no mark on the right side. For faced bottoms there shrinking, and must be very exactly fitted. To
is sometimes used a preparation of gutta percha, in facilitate their making up, but which also serves to
using which, after pressing the bottom into form , hold them better in their form , the top sides are cut
lay it flat by the crease edge on the sleeve board, narrow at the bottom , the whole of the portion to
then lay the preparation on it,with its sticking side come under the foot being cut on to the under side.
next the trousers, coming to the bottom and the From their form it will be understood that their
proper distance over the leg or sideseam ,as the case length , before making up, exceeds thatof what may
may be, and run the iron over it, and pare it away be called the trousers proper, as the top side springs
even with the crease edge ; then turn the leg over forward to cover a portion of the foot, and the under
and repeat the operation, except that you pare only sidepasses under it, it follows therefore, that both
to within two seams of the edge, which press down at back and front the bottoms are hollowed , that in
to the first done half, this at the same time incor front, however, being mostly the result of pressing
porates the whole facing into one and presses out them into their form , which must be done before
the crease ; the bottom will then be felled over in basting up. In properly cut French bottomed
the ordinary way. In pressing off the bottoms care trousers the line of the creasing is always in the
must be taken to preserve their form , the crease centre of the top side, which are cut narrow across
mark down the front being well pressed out before the ankle, from which they gradually spring out to
damping, which should be had resort to as little as the width required to cover the instep, and in pres
possible. sing into shape the bottom must be made to assume
217. - IF THERE ARE STRAPS, then previous to the form of a gaiter down the front. Although
French bottoms partake somewhat of the nature of
turning up the bottoms, a stay of double linen must
be put under the inturn at the place where the but those springing to a less degree over the foot,which,
tons are to be. The rule for placing the buttons in to keep them in form require to be faced, they
plain cut trousers is to put the hindmost button at coming tooverbe the
require faced at that portion only actually
foot, and this facing should be
the leg seam a quarter of an inch in front of the either linen or fine canvas.
seam , then the front one at the side seam , so that
there will be half an inch more space at the front 219 . - IF THE TROUSERS ARE FULL FALL, what
part of the bottom than at the back , and to set the
second buttons one inch from the first, one in front wehave said about top weltsand waistbandsin par.
of the other at the leg seam , and one behind the 211, equally apply . If cut in the ordinary manner,
other at side seam . After turning up the bottoms, a bearer must be fitted by the top side, allowing
band on top, the dotted lines shewing the bottom ,
where the stays are, must be stitched or pricked the buttons being set on , and the holes placed as
through all above the buttons. Whatever may be shewn. In cutting the pocket, do not let the end be
the width of the strap, the same rule must be fol too far from the seam , so as to decrease the strain
lowed in fixing the positions of the first two but upon it, and let it be slightly above the side tacking,
tons, and if there should be three holes in the strap, which will also prevent any strain there. In put
the centre one must be put forward at the leg seam ting in the pocket, first put a stay of single linen ,
and backwards at the side seam . extending into and from the pocket mouth to the
218 . - IF TO BUTTON UNDER THE Foor, in which top buttons, through which seam the pocket facing ,
• case a strap or tab has to be fitted , and the bottom then put double linen along the bottom and round
 68 HOW TO MAKE
the ends ; put a hip stay wide enough to go an inch and are turned in and tacked through the bearer ;
under the pocket, and linen extending from the the point should be sharp and in the centre of the
front, backward enough to allow the pocket to pass | welt ; the tacking should be a side stitch prick
an inch over. Fell the pocket along the top and ing, running from the stitching at the side and the
seam , and its top is pricked straight
across, after which prick round the out
side of the edges. Although a side
welt should not be loose, still in sewing

|
|
on the button it should not be kept tight,
but the bearer may be seamed on the
slightest degree easy and is lined with linen .
back or side stitch under, then fell it down along 221. - IF THE TROUSERS ARE LINED, the lining
the bottom of the bearer, and at each end, laying it
should
three quarters of an inch back at both ends,which same be cut and fitted to go together exactly the
will prevent the sewing giving way from the action open as the trousers ,and the seams should be pressed
of the hand ; then turn the other half of the pocket . After the trousers are well pressed inside,
back, and fell it along thebottom of the facing, turn ! lay the linings and trousers together, back to back ,
it back again, and fell it down on the hip stay, and of and flash baste the seat seam of the linings to that
on to the linen facing in front, and tack the ends the trousers, then flash baste the leg seams and
through all ; or if a clean appearance is required in then the side seams ; then turn out and finish the
side, the endf can be tacked before the top half of tops. If the linings are not put the full length of
the trousers, then turn them back about half an inch
the pocket is felled over.
at the bottom on the underside, and fell along with
220. - IF THE TROUSERS ARE NARROW FALL, they out pulling the hand tight ; turn down again and
are made up with a frog pocket,and the fall and | notch round. If the linings are not put the full
bearer, as shewn on the diagram . The side welt, length they should be basted in before the bottoms
should be sewn on quite fair , and doubled over to are made up , and the upturn should be turned over
form the fall lining, a piece of linen put through it, the lining. If in full fall trousers the pockets are
double in the edge, and to tack in at the bottom to go inside the linings, the bearer must be cut in
the side welt should be made a trifle narrower at the form shewn by the broken line on the diagram
the bottom than the top,and be stitched on theedge in paragraph 219, the fall lining taking the same
and behind the inside edge of the seam , the top can course. The fall lining and bearermust be seamed
either be turned in and stitched behind or double together as far forward as the bearer comes, just
stitched raw edged. The making up of the slanted past the to,
referred edgeforward
of thefrom
pocket
that,atbeing
A , on the
the continua
diagram
edges at the bottom require to be done wiih taste, tion of the fall lining.

BREECHES ,
222. - So far as themaking up of the tops are are equally applicable to breeches, the additional
concerned , all the instructions given for trousers points being the knees and continuations. Taking
 BREECHES, & c. 69

Dress Breeches first, which are short and close fit being represented as in the buckle. The above in
ting at the knee, with a buckle gaiter ; according to structions will apply to ordinary breeches for com
the size of knee and leg, the garter must be put on mon wear, still in use in some parts of the country ,
tight on the top side and easy on the under, inde- | except that sometimes, instead of a buckle, there are
pendent of which the top side, in length, should be strings at the bottom , in which case, one string is
kept half an inch easy on within about four inches sewn on at the end of the top side of the garter,
from the bottom , the object being to form a sort of there being no tongue ; for the other string an eye
cup for the reception of the knee. Previous, there
fore, to basting up, the bottoms should be pressed
into form , shrunk at the seams and bottom of the
top side, and stretched at the seams and bottom of
the underside, and shrunk under the knee. Even if
made of velvet, this should be done, as far as pos
sible, by running the velvet over a warm iron laid
on its side, having basted on stays, for both holes
and buttons. After seaming up, seam on the garter,
cutting it fully double the width it is to be made
up, so as to be the size of the knee within the
making up space, allowing about two and a half
inches to pass out on the top side to form the tongue
of the buckle ; after pressing open the seams, turn . . O
. RD OPE

in the hole edge of the top side and face with silk ,
then baste the garter to about half an inch wide, or
to correspond with the buckle, and baste the tongue let hole is worked in the same place as the hole for
into a width that will comfortably go into the the buckle, the string being sewed to the end of a
buckle, for thinness using silk as a stay ; double in button and drawn up through the hole. Hunting
the edge of the garter, stitch down the hole edge Breeches are now generally made up withoutgarters ,
round the tongue and along the bottom of the and with nothing else than holes and buttons, the
garter, then fell along the top edge of the tongue, knees requiring little or no making up ; but in
and stitch up the back of its seam . To take the length , the top side should be kept on. If there
buckle, a hole is worked in the underside of the are continuations cut on, the garment assumes the
garter, aboutan inch from the edge of the top side, form of Pantaloons, only that they open all the
when buttoned , and at the back of this hole is put way down from the knee, and, of course, should be
sewn down at each end a cock's comb formed of made up with it. If continuations are cut off, no
the same material as the breeches, the whole as precise directions are required for themaking, which
suming the form shewn by the diagram , the tongue to an extent dependsupon the material.

PANTALOONS ,
223. - As with Breeches, all the instructions | should be shrunk and pressed into form . In all
given for trousers apply to themaking up of the cases there is a slit at the bottom of the sideseam ,
tops of Pantaloons, their making in other respects buttoned with flexibles, and of such length as will
depend upon the cut ; in all cases, over the knee allow the leg to go easy in ; but if tight over the
top side should be well shrunk in , and the under knee there is also a slit with three holes in the side
side, under the knee, be stretched at the seams or seam at the knee which should be faced with silk ,
shrunk in the centre ; on the calf, the underside and stitched on the edge only .

KNICKERBOCKERS ,
224. – This is a modern name for an old gar- i garter. The Knickerbocker proper is alwaysmade
ment, and may be described as long and loose į up with waistbands, so as toadmit of thebody being
Breeches, without buttons at the knee, the ancient either gathered or pleated on them ; in either case
strings being superseded by elastic or a buckle the fullnessmust be so disposed as to draw fairly
 70 HOW TO MAKE

from the top to the bottom , without any twist . If
there is elastic at the bottom no slit is left in the
side, and the elastic is either sewn in under the up
turn, or serged to its edge as a band , after being
made up, in which case it must be sewn on the
stretch , so as to ensure ease to the stitch . If there
is a buckle garter, a slit twoinches long is left in
the sideseam ,made up plain,and thegarter is made
|! up the same as for Breeches, see par. 222.

HOW TO MAKE WAISTCOATS ,

225 . - Although there is no difficulty whatever stretched or shrunk . Put staytape down the left
in making up a Waistcoat, yet there is no garment | side, just tight enough to little more than command
in which neat sewing and taste in formation shews the edge ; now pare away the canvas from the edge
to better advantage ; indeed with the wantof either , of left side, but when making vests, we turned the
a Waistcoat has a very common look ; the truth of edge of the canvas into the inside, the width of the
this will be apparent as we proceed with our in - linturn down the front on the right side, this helps
structions. Starting with a plain stand collar vest to command the edge. Now turn in the edges and
to button up ; the first thing is to mark in the stitch them . In turning in the scye, do not notch
pockets, including, if any, the watch pocket, which it, as in pressing the iron will stretch the turned in
is usually in the left side. Then cut the collar,which edge sufficient. Tack the ends of the pockets so
should be nearly straight, only fitting the gorge for that they run respectively with the front and side
aboutan inch in front, although that must largely seam . After piecing the facings, you are now ready
depend upon the heightto which the gorge is cut for the second press, after which baste on your but
- if cut low , according to the degree, the collar ton stay ; we prefer that this should not be basted
must be fitted further back . After marking the on till after the second press, as it is very apt to be
pockets and cutting the collar, fit the facings, burned ,and so be useless. Now baste on the fa
first cutting the welts double the width they are to cings ; flash baste them on the canvasbehind. After
be when made up, and the collar lining the same as felling the edge, we proceed to put in the holes ;
the collar, allow the bottom facings to be a little many baste in the linings when they baste on the
broader in front than behind ; these slight differen- facing, and fell altogether,and join the vest before
ces give a better appearance to the inside than level putting in the holes ; we prefer putting in the holes
widths. If there is any piecing, and the material first,as it gives less opportunity for the linings being
will admit, all joins should be stoated. The first soiled. The linings should be basted in easy, with
thing in commencing to sew , is to seam on the col- out being too full to prevent their being pressed
lars ; as to how a collar should be put on , must of smooth. A common and very good way is to put
course in somemeasure be regulated by the cut and a pleat from top to bottom . We ought to state,
the instructions given ; but the usual way to secure that some, before basting in their linings, cut a
a clean fitting shoulder, is to stretch the hollow of slit right up and down the centre of the canvas, but
gorge with the teeth, previous to putting the collar we think the propriety of this is open to doubt ; it
on , and then keep the collar easy where you have is done with the view of giving play to the vest in
stretched the gorge ; in this way nearly half an inch course of wear ; but with the canvas cut up, the
of collar can be disposed of, which , with careful linings easy, and the material in anymeasure elastic,
pressing, will allow that part of the vest to fit clean it is not difficult to imagine the shape and form the
in the hollow of neck . Next sew on the welts; now vest will assumeon the wearer. The Vest is now
open collar and welt seams, running the iron over ready for joining. There are two ways of joining
the fore parts and smoothing the canvas at the same a vest, which we give, the first being the one we
always followed, and is understood as “ bagging ;"
time. Put in the pockets now as directed in par.
81. In basting in the canvas, care must be taken we joined the back neck before putting on the fa
to have it perfectly smooth ; to securethis itshould cings, so after sewing back and back lining sepa
be basted in on the board ; care must also be taken | rately ,we proceed to baste side and side shoulder
to fit the canvas nicely to any part that has been / of back and breast together ; the foreparts are now
 WAISTCOATS . 71
lying on the right side of the back ; take the back | COLLAR,— orwhat is usually understood by a Prussian
lining, and beginning at the bottom of side seam of Collar, it must be cut in the manner shewn by the
right forepart, sew right round, including side seam , diagram , the stand being cut low and stretched
back scye, shoulders and bottom , keeping the lining along its bottom edge.
a seam over,at bottom and scies ; turn the fore 227. - IF SINGLE BREASTED NO COLLAR, which
parts out at the back neck ; rub it all nice and is a style of vest very commonly made, and in
smooth, and then fell your back neck . The other making which , nothing can be much more plain or
way to join a vest, you proceed, except about an simple. To give the necessary spring at hollow of
inch at the bottom , to sew back and lining together gorge, either one inch of a V is inserted, or a small
for two thirds up, each on the single for the re piece is inserted, the width of a stand collar, about
maining third ; then lay one forepart between the 24 inches, and forming the collar at back neck .
back and lining, and beginning at thebottom of the When the collar does not extend across the back , a
side seam , baste all together, keeping the back stay of double linen should be put across and sewn
slightly easy all the way, but most so upwards, then
in with the joining. Some little care is required to
back stitch through all, now sew all together at the throw a breast on these vests; it is a matter of no
shoulder, allowing the back to pass up an inturn at difficulty however, as it can easily be produced by
the top , then back and forestitch round the scye, the scye, and working up the front edge,
and the half of the bottom , keeping back and lining shrinking
it is entirely a matter of carefulmanipulation .
even at the edges, then, having pared the lining
away, the outside back will slightly turn inwards. 228 . - IF SINGLE BREASTED ROLL COLLAR . This
Now turn out at the top , and proceed in the same style of vest is almost confined to Dress Vests , with
manner with the other sidə, only that both foreparts a long roll.
willnow be between the backs, to give room for the As regards
turning out of which is the reason why we direct the fitting of
one third of the back seam to be sewn on the single. the collar,we
Turn outthe whole, join the back of collar, and fell have found
along the back and lining. As regards the back the method
straps, if they are long they can be sewn in with the shewn on the
side seam , having been previously basted in their accompany
proper position on the outside back , then after the ing diagram ,
vest is turned out, they will require to be stitched the best, that
down about two and a half inches from the centre is to give not
of back ; if they are short they must be sewn on in more than
their proper place after the closing. The cleanest half an inch
way to put on back straps, is to fell them round be spring at the
fore joining , then stitch them across through the shoulder, to
lining. In pressing off, commence with the bottom make it
of the left side and work round to the bottom of the slightly
right side, then smooth the outside back , the upper rounder than
part first, then the linings, and finally damp off. To the gorge in
mark the buttons, lay the right side upon the left, front, and
inside out,and drop broken pipeclay through the ends take about a
of the holes, which will unmistakeably give their quarter of an
correct po inch out be
sition, keep tween the
ing the left hollow of the
a little tight gorge and
on the right back of the
break . Then
which is al
lowed for by before sew
the staytape. ing on ,stretch
the collar slightly along the sewing on edge, as
226 . - IF marked, and keep on about half an inch in the
TURNED DOWN
DOWN | hollow of the gorge, not more . The making up
 72 HOW TO MAKE
the roll of these vests requires particular care, in all canvas fitted and la pel seamed to, sameas outside.
its stages. The collar being properly fitted and To secure that the lapel is put on to the right length
sewn to, the crease edge ought to be well kept or degree of tightness, it should be basted on so
in front, when being formed in the first press, that its outside edge is fair on the forepart as it
pressed slightly hollow . In basting in the canvas, lays back on it. The la pel for a button up vest
taking the left breast , and putting it flat down on must not be cut pointed at the top . The left gorgo
the canvas, with the front of vest to selvage edge, should be lowered half a seam , so that when but
begin to baste at the top of the crease edge, letting | toned up it should go smoothly under the collar on
the crease edge form a straight line,with the excep the right side ; an alteration must be made in the
tion of preserving what little hollow you may have collar in accordance with that in the gorge. In cut
made in pressing the crease ; baste right down to ting the collar, follow the directions given in par.
the bottom of forepart, then all round the side, see 120. If there are double holes on the turn, which
ing the vest lays smooth ; in basting the shoulder, is sometimes the case in this description of vest,
allow the spring at the neck to remain just where it see par. 121. In all double breasted waistcoats,
is — basting round it, afterwardscutit down, tacking whether to button up or not, the holes and buttons
on sufficient to meet the spring. Now cutyour can must be in their proper relative positions ; in single
vas, allowing sufficient to cover the roll, stretching breasted waistcoats any difference in that respect is
it on the edge so as to make it lay, baste the canvas more readily detected. The effect is the same in
round the edge of roll ; then either stitch inside the all cases ; most visible, however, in the double
crease edge, or pad stitch the crease of roll on the breasted, and often attributed to some other cause .
outside with silk , keeping the edge slightly tight To secure that the buttons should be in their proper
with the sewing. If this is properly done, it will place, the lapel should always be turned back on
be unnecessary to take a puff out of the gorge ; if the forepart and cut at the bottom as it would be if
more breast is wanted, it should be got from the buttoned . If this is not done just to the extent that
scye. The next thing requiring attention is the put it is too much or too little cut off-- and if when
ting on the roll,and facing ; the roll having been marking, the buttons are marked by the holes, and
cut the required shape, should be stretched orshrunk, the lapel edge is kept level at the bottom - so will
according to the hollow of the crease edge ; place they be too high or too low , and one or other side
it on the roll doubled, as it will be when finished , of the turn made to appear long.
and baste thick on the edge with a serging stitch , 231. - IF DOUBLE BREASTED ROLL COLLAR, or
keeping the roll just tight enough, so as to make Roll and Collar, and not intended to button over.
sure that it is not easy , then baste round the edge which is probably the most fashionable vest of the
of roll. Caremust be taken in basting the inturn on present day. If the la pels are cut off, the instruc
the edge of collar lining, to keep the roll easy across ;
tions in the previous paragraph will apply ; butas
some prefer basting the inturn on the single on the the lapels are very frequently left on, the instruc
inside. When a roll collar vest is enibroidered , care tions for S. B . roll collar will apply. If the entire
must be taken to get it in the same position on both roll and collar is cut off, as is done by some firms,
rolls, and in pressing off to preserve its boldness : the fitting of the roll to be sewn on will be similar
to do this it should be pressed with a piece of cloth to the Dress Vest collar as illustrated in par. 227.
over, which will not flatten it so much as with linen , If there is a puff taken out in front of breast, the
and save the necessity for damping , but the press lapel, above its buttoning point, must be sprung
ing must be no more than necessary to smooth , or out on its sewing on edge, so as to give additional
the cloth under the iron will cause the vest to shrink . length on the outside edge. The samemust be done
229. - IF SINGLE BREASTED ROLL AND STEP, also if there are no puffs,and it is desired that the
the vest generally buttons higher up, and the roll front should be very open , but these style of fronts
consequently shorter ; the same instructions given are bad in taste,having the appearance of being
in preceding par. apply to the roll, the only differ forced .
ence being that some little taste is required in form 232. - IF THERE ARE Flaps, follow the direc
ing the step . tions given in par. 165, unless the top of the flap
230 - IF DOUBLE BREASTED, WITH LAPELS CUT is to be the pocket mouth, in which case cut the
OFF, and to button up, the lapelshould be cutnearly pocketmouth in the forepart atthe same level as if
straight, and be kept on , more or less tight, in pro - the pocket was to be under, but only about half an
portion to the round cut in the forepart, and the | inch shorter than the flap, put the stays round it,
 WAISTCOATS . 73
and make up the flap, except along its top edge, | flash basted open, and the cotton used for linings
allowing the lining to come to the top. Lay the wetted and smoothed before being used. Under
flap in its place and baste it along below the pocket the head ofwhite, we include all washing materials,
mouth , then seam the pocket mouth to the flap whatever may be their colour and kind, whether
and fell to the top and underside of pocket, | Marsalla , Duck , or Drill, figured or plain . Mar
make up the top of the flap, baste in the canvas, sallas, plain or figured ,are made up with pricked
and tack the ends of the flap down the length of edges ; Drills and Ducksare bound with China tape
the pocketmouth with a double tacking, the same to match. For pricking, see par. 14. The binding
as the ends of a welt. of light waistcoats should be back stitched on the
233 , - IF THERE ARE EYELET HOLES, and they outside and turned over and felled on the inside as
are not to be through all, after the canvas is basted directed in par. 166. When ready to press off,be
fore getting an iron , moderately wet the waistcoat
in, a piece of cotton should be basted over it down all over, and roll up smooth and tight, so that the
the front, going half an inch further back than the dampness may spread regularly all over; then take
width of the facing , through which work the eyelet a large clean iron just off the burn, and using it
holes . If the edge is plain it can be turned in be bare, follow the process laid down in par. 225 ,
fore putting on the cotton , which could then be always taking care that the linings lay smooth be
lightly felled down before putting in the holes, in low , so as to avoid the marks of creases outside, and
other cases this must be ruled by themaking up of so that thelinings themselvesmaybe easier smoothed
the edges. The facing will be left open behind the inside. If the iron is used with anything under it,
eyelet holes, and so far, the lining felled on the the bright gloss, so much admired in light waist
cotton. Except in linen or cotton materials, eyelet
holes should not be made with the bodkin , but coats, cannot be imparted to the surface; at all
should be cut out, small and round, with the small parts the pressing should be continued till perfectly
cuts ; they should be worked with a button hole dry , and before laying on the iron, the part to be
stitch and a thread laid under, a sufficient length pressed should be laid in its proper position and
being allowed for this when commencing the hole ; form . To clean and impart a smooth run to the
in working , the edge must not be contracted or it iron before using, a little soap should be rubbed
over its face, which , of course, must be worked off
will break in wear. before using
234 . - IF THE EDGES ARE NOT PLAIN (we reckon 237. - IF MADE OF VELVET OR PLUSH , the best
a stitched plain edge), if bound with braid , see par. course is not to baste at all, but to use needles to
103 ; if the braid is seamed on, see par. 104 ; if hold the parts together, by which means all danger
bound with any other material than braid , see par. of marking is avoided . The edges are seldom made
105 ; if the binding is back stitched on, see par. up otherwise than plain , in which case the inside
106 ; if flat braided, see par. 107 ; if double sewed , edges are felled on the outside one, without catch
see par. 109. If double , or “ boss ” edge, the one ing through. In the case of Plush , the whole of
edge is turned in and the other felled on it. If the the facings below the top hole and buttons must be
edges are corded , the cord should be sewed on the put in to wool upwards, otherwise the waistcoat
edge before it is turned in , and then the other edge would ride up in wear. Welts, collars, and all
felled on it, unless it is desired to sew it on the raw seams should be rubbed open with the iron standing
edge, in which case, see par. 87. on end. Both with velvet and plush the back should
235 . — IF THERE IS A Fly, follow the method not be bagged in , but the back lining should be first
seamed to the fore parts, and then the outside back
laid down in par. 111. itself felled over, the linings at the back scyes and
236 . - IF THE MATERIAL IS WHITE, - if woollen, bottom being felled on to the back . In pressing off,
no separate directions are required, except that in little more should be done than smoothing the back
pressing off it will require no damping. If the and linings ; for anything further, a smart iron
material is linen or cotton, the least amount of should be laid on its side,a piece of stout woollen
basting should be put in , so as to avoid marking material over it, and the wrong side of any part
and soiling. Having to be washed, no interlining that requires smoothing be laid on it, without any
is put in, only stays for holes, buttons,and pockets. water being used , and as the heat comes through
To keep them in their place , they should be stitched brush it, velvet the wrong way , and plush the side
by their edges to the facings or linings, as the case way of the pile. To sew buttons on plush , so as to
may be ; for the same reason, all seams should be avoid marking and pulling in the pile, pin a piece
 74 HOW TO MAKE

of paper over the edge, on which .mark and set the and interlining together, then baste the interlining
buttons, and then tear off. through the forepart, turn in the remaining edges,
238 .— IF MADE OF MATERIAL WITH A PATTERN, and put in the pocket tackings. The back and
either figured , striped , or checked , welts, fronts, linings of Fur Waistcoats are usually quilted by the
lapel and the two rolls must be made to match . In machine, the backs through all, with wadding be
double breasted vests the patterns of one forepart tween, the forepart linings on wadding and Domett.
should be cut exactly on the top of thatof the other ; The back must be put in the same as for plush , and
but in single breasted each forepart must be cut the buttons sewn in the samemanner, see par. 237.
separately and an allowance made for the inturns, 240 . — TO MAKE A CASSOCK. — This is a double
and the holes and buttons standing off the edge, breasted vest with a lap over or lapel cut on the left
otherwise the front cannot be made up to match. side, the right forepart being cut to the front of
La pels should of course be cut to match the fore breast, or sometimes only to take the collar and
parts, and can be seamed on without trouble ; but to buttons. A Cassock proper is made of silk , but is
secure correctness, welts may be turned in and felled often made in the same form from cloth kerseymere
on, and can then be opened the same as if they had or Cashmere, and although the holes are sometimes
been seamed . In single breasted vests the facings put through, properly it should be made up with a
are best fitted singly when ready to baste over. fly . The edges are always stitched plain . With
239. — IF MADE OF FUR, Sealskin being themost these differences, the directions for a plain Waist
usual, the waistcoat is made single breasted, with coat apply to Cassocks.
out collar, with a fly , and is faced with cloth or 241. - TO MAKE AN UNDER WAISTCOAT. — The
Melton . As delivered from the furrier , the welts body is made, on the single, of either Silk , Flannel
are serged on, but if any cutting or serging has to or Cotton ; and the roll or portion to shew , and to
be done, see par. 198. In putting in the pocnet take the holes and buttons, of such colours and
bag to the top half, and sew in along with it a strip material as may be desired . The edges are made
of linen wideenough to go through the welt,which up plain , and the seams are run and felled down .
turns down with it, and fell or stitch down to the If there are pockets, they should be of the same
serging on of the welt. Put the interlining through material as the body, put in with a welt and bagged
the right side as in an ordinary waistcoat, in the left | inside, thumb pieces being felled over the tackings
side it must go through the fly . To fell the fly | on the inside.
facing do not turn in the edge but fit the facing lay 242. - IF A FALSE WAISTCOAT, which is simply
ing on the outside, and so fell it, pushing the fur a roll made to button inside a vest, it must be made
back with the needle , then turn the facing over and up to fit the portion to which it is to button , and
lightly stitch it down behind the inturn . Then the buttons must be placed thick enough to hold it
make up the fly with the interlining through it, and in its position , ordinarily one at each end, one be
baste down to the front of the forepart, turn the hind and two on each side between the ends and
facing back,and back stitch the fly facing, lining, the centre.

HOW TO MAKE UNDER CLOTHING ,

243.- FLANNEL Vests, or singlets , are made with the loop stitch. In making up the sleeves ,
both double and single breasted, the seams, inturns, either short or long, theedges are sometimes turned
and all pieces sewn on are on the outside of the in and cross stitched down. Sometimes also the
garment. The seamsare run, and while laid on the whole of the seams are laid on one side, on the
double , should be pared to an even width and not double , and cross stitched down, but they are not
left too wide, then opened and cross stitched down so thin as when cross stitched open . If the vest is
the centre, the stitch reaching across to, but not | double breasted, then both on the right and left
over, each edge of the seam . If the sleeves are sides galloon is felled down the line where the but
long, a short slit is left in the bottom ,and the edges tons would stand ; on the left side holes would be
of front gorgeand sleeve are turned in , and galloon worked in the edge, and in the galloon on thebutton
on the flat felled over the inturn , the holes being | line in the right side the buttons are sewed on the
worked in it on the left side and the buttons sewn corresponding lines of galloon , so that when the
on it on the right. The bottom edge is overcast ' vest is on , the buttons on the edge of the under lap
 THE HIGHLAND DRESS. 75
comes through on the left side, and the left side Drawers have always waistbands, the back ends of
buttons over on the right, in the ordinary manner ; which, and for abouttwo inches down the seatseam
by this arrangement the front is held in its place, should be left open ; into the opening so formed, a
and the buttonsare all brought to the outside. In tongue or puff should be sewn, and double eyelet
pressing off,smooth under a slightly damped rag. holes worked in the ends of the band, so as to tie in
or let out by means of a lace. The fronts and bot
244 . — DRAWERS are made up in various forms, toms are faced round with tape, felled on flat,
either long or short, the general rule with reference and if there are not buttons at the bottom , about
to them being that all seams should be outside. two inches of the under side must be turned in and
The first thing is to sew the side seam , first basting left untaped, and about four inches of tape left on
the top side, by its edge, to the making up mark of the top side, and as much on the under side as will
the underside, which brings the sewing to the out go round the ancle and tie. If there are holes at
side, then fell the outlet down on to the top side, the bottom , they are worked in the tape on the top
and turn the outlet to the inside ; this converts that sides and the buttons set on it on the under side.
portion in the slit at the bottom to a catch orbearer, If the drawers are short, the bottoms are either
without cutting it. In sewing the leg seam and taped round or turned up and felled on the outside.
joining allow an inturn for the felling over in the In plain drawers there are two holes in the band in
leg seam on the under side, as with the sideseam , front, and one below , in the middle of the front.
let the first sewing be on the outside ; in joining , All these directions are for plain drawers, the prin
only close about two inches in front of leg seam . | ciples of which apply to those of every description.

HOW TO MAKE THE HIGHLAND DRESS,

245 . — THE JACKET. Although the essential broader at the bottom than the top, and if cut after
part of a Highland dress, as giving it its special dia. B , the tash must be made more pointed behind
feature, are the Kilt and Plaid , still there are some than it is slanted in front : the object of these ar
times distinctive peculiarities in the Jacket and rangements are that the edges of the tashes should
Vest. The Jacket is usually a plain round one,with come together when the Jacket is on , by allowing
or without outside pockets, having either welts or for the spring over the Kilt. B is the form of tash
flaps, with or without tashes at the bottom , and a best adapted for Jackets fitting rather tight, and
plain round , or a gauntlet cuff. If there are flaps, from its form it is evident they cannot be put on
they can be made plain , or pointed ; if pointed , equal all round ; supposing. therefore, thatthe back
there should be three lace or cord holes, with buttons | ones are about two inches apart at the top, a back

at the bottoms; when this is the case, it is usual to tash, cut round at the bottom , an inch wider than
put three corresponding holes on the top side of the the space, and somewhat shorter than the others,
cuff, with buttons at the top of each. And when should be put on so that its respective edges should
the cuff is madeup with holes, it is usual to put go under those of the under back tashes. If the
tashes at the bottom of the Jacket, which may be tashes are double, this back one would still be single.
the form shewn by either of the annexed diagrams, If cut in the form shewn by A , they are put on
and either single or double. In dia . A , the tash is ' equal all round, one in the centre behind, and two
 76 HOW TO MAKE
each side, whichevermay be the form of tash, its required ; and if of thin tartan ,it may be necessary
front edge must not be less than one inch from the to pass over every other one of the stripes thrown
front of the Jacket backward from it. Ifthe tashes up , in which case a still larger quantity will be re
are double, that is, one set on the top of another, quired . The depth of a kilt is the width of the
the top onesmust be cut about three -eighths nar material, and is worn higher or lower on the body,
rower on each side, and at the bottom , the bottom according to the height of the wearer, and the dis
one being plain , and the holes and buttons on the tance he wishes it to cover the limbs. Properly ,
top ones. If, however, the edges of the Jacket are when standing, it should be level with the lower
corded, then the edges of both sets oftashes are also part of the knee, so that in the act of walking it
corded . As regards their width , they mustbe regu - | does not touch the hinder part of the leg . But
lated by the size of the Jacket ; they must be so although this is a matter of adjustment, on the
cut that their top edges will meet when sewn on , part of the wearer, unless braces are worn , wemen
the edges of the under tash when they are double. tion it, so as to save any perplexity to the maker ;
In making the tashes, except the under ones, thin braces, however, have no connection with a kilt, as
canvas or stout cotton should be put through them , the Celt draws his philabeg, at its proper height,
and they should be lined with silk or alpaca, to firmly round his waist,and fastens it with gold or
match. To sew on the tashes, if double, first baste silver headed pins five or six inches long ; themore
the top ones on the bottom ones, turn up the bottom usual practice, however, now -a -days, is to fasten
of the Jacket and baste its double edge on to the with straps, of which we shall speak in the proper
top edge of the tashes, with them laying flat, and place . When on, a kilt appears to consist of two
their edges meeting at the top ; then , if not too portions, the pleated , which is behind and over the
thick , fell or stitch the bottom of the Jacket on the hips, and the plain , which is in front. The plain
tashes ; if stout, fell or side prick , after which fell part is called the apron, and is really double , each
the body lining over the sewing inside. end of the kilt having a quantity left plain , from
246 .— The Vest is either ofthe ordinary form , ten to twelve inches, and in wear they are doubled
over and under, the right under, the left over.
or cut long , with the corners cut off at the bottom ,
and having pointed flaps. In these Waistcoats the Sometimes the edge of the upper apron is fringed
out
top of the flap should run down in front, nearly in threads ; that is , for about three inches in, the cross
the direction of the bottom of Vest, and its front material of the material are pulled out ; and if the
edge should run in the same direction as the bottom is thin, or the fringe wanted to be extra
of the front is cut off, and have three silver or white heavy , one or two pieces equal to the depth of the
fringe must be sewed on to the back side. This
cord holes, with a button at the bottom of each . may be done by basting the extra piece on the back ,
The pocket should be made to go in from top of
flap, for the making up of which see par. 232. If and on the right side chains or cross stitching
the back comes to the bottom of the sideseam , a through, the cross stitching taking the form shewn
slit should be left, in proportion to the length of on the third diagram in par. 12. Sometimes, as in
the case of the 93rd Regiment, an ornamentation of
the Waistcoat. the apron is imperative. Supposing the kilt to be
247. - The Kilt.- Although to the uninitiated | made of tartan, the clan stripe must appear in the
themaking of a kilt appears complicated , it is, in centre of each pleat, which is easily distinguished
reality, very simple , particularly if made of plain by its being the most prominent ; this necessity is
Tweed, in which case it is only necessary to lay the the reason of the peculiarity in pleating up a kilt.
pleats, so that they will appear equal distances The accompanying diagram will make the method
apart on the right side, and may be left flat, with to be followed clear, and shews the section of the
out being turned back in the manner we shall de pleats — that is, that the lines represent the edgeof
scribe when we give directions for pleating up the material. The X 's shew the front of the pleats,
tartan, although it may and would be none the the O's the back of them . In ordinary pleating,
worse of being so . The quantity required for a both back and front would appear the same, each
Kilt is generally about six times the waistmeasure, pleat running to a sharp point, as those represented
or from 7} to 9 yards ; this quantity, however, by the O's, but then as a particular stripe, within
further varies according to the thickness of the given and limited intervals, must be shewn on the
material, the degree of fullness desired , and the front, that portion of the pleat containing it is
pattern, or the distance the stripes composing it are turned back upon itself to the width each pleat is
apart ; the thinner the material the more will be to shew on the surface. The number of pleats in
 THE HIGHLAND DRESS. 77
a kilt will vary with the size, but may be usually of the corresponding pleat, with stringsof the same
taken at about thirty, and in width must be regu- ribbon as the rosettes, passing from under them , so
lated by size of waist, width here meaning the por- as to tie together. To make a rosette , take a stiff
tion that will be turned back . Having fixed upon piece of card , cut round and cover the same as a
the width and number of pleats, keeping in view button with black cotton , then take a ribbon to
the quantity of material and thedistance the stripes match either the ground colour or that of the superior
to be thrown up are apart, proceed to baste down strip of the tartan, about half an inch wide ; draw
each edge of the pleats from top to bottom ,keeping | in one edge, and carry round and round from out
the stripe that is to be thrown up on the under side, side to centre, finishing with a small button , covered
and about five inches from the top, making them with the same, or cut into about three inch lengths,
a little narrower, for hollow of waist. Then turn and sew them on thedouble in rows, beginning with
back this single pleat the width to be shewn , regu the outside and finishing as before, with a button in
lating so that the stripe will be in the centre . the centre.
Having done this, carefully bring all the edges so 248. — THE BELTED PLAID . – A plain Scotch
basted, together one at a time, and baste firmly
down, edge to edge, from top to bottom , keeping Plaid, or Maud, is simply a long shawl,worn on
the undermaterial in the form of box pleats ; that the body in a variety of ways, according to the
is, let it lie both ways, except the two front ones ! necessities of the weather or the taste of the wearer ;

which must all lie one way, backwards : having | it, therefore, requires no making, on the part of the
proceeded thus far, draw the edges together for tailor. The Belted Plaid, however, as a portion of
about ten inches down ; after which, firmly prick the Highland dress, must be made,and in length
across the bottom of the sewed parts of the pleats, and width varies with the size of the person it is
through all. Turning now to the inside, the edges for. What is required is, that the Plaid should
of the pleats may be felled or stitched down as far reach from the shoulder to within abouttwo inches
as the pricking across ; or, what is far better, al of the bottom of the kilt, and then turn up from
though not strictly regular, as it makes the kilt thence a sufficient quantity to comeup to the waist,
thinner and sit better over the hips, is to cut out all from which it will be seen that its bottom edge
the material down to the outside pleats, fill in the hangs double. For an ordinary man , the quantity
space with a piece of firm Tweed,and line over it. required to accomplish this is about forty -eight in
In doing this, shape to hollow of waist, for which ches, and its corresponding breadth would be about
purposewehave directed above that each sewed part forty - five inches ; to commence with , we have,
of the pleats should be narrowed in the centre. therefore, nearly a square of material. The two
Having either stitched the pleats down inside, or sides, and one end,which will become its top, of
cut them out and lined it, bind the top . The kilt is this square is fringed , in the same manner as de
now ready for pressing off, which must be done scribed for the edge of the apron of the kilt, or by
before removing thebasting ; this is not a very parti having an independent fringe sewed on . The fourth
cular operation, butmust be thoroughly and firmly edge is plaited on to a band , sufficiently long to
done, so that every pleat keeps its place ; this , and buckle round the waist, which it does under the
the forming of the waist, being the two points upon jacket. On to this band the whole width of the
which its beauty depends. The next operation , if | material is plaited, in its centre, and to about half
worn , is to put on the strapsand buckles, the straps the size of the waist ; it will thus be understood
of leather being put on the ends of the apron, oppo that in general appearance a Belted Plaid resembles
site the hollow of waist, and the buckles in a cor | a lady's a pron turned upside down . Supposing it to
responding line on the third pleat ; the under strap be buckled at the waist, wrong side out,what would
must of course pass through a hole to the top side. then be its bottom edge must be brought up to the
The last operation is to puton the rosettes, three on shoulder and there fastened , either by being pinned
the edge of upper apron, and three down the edge to the jacket with a brooch, or by a loop of binding
 29
78 HOW TO MAKE
to match being sewed ,at half its width , on the in throwing, as in the case of the kilt,the most promi
side of the Plaid, through which is passed either nent stripe into the centre of each ; the width of
a shoulder strap or cord, made to button at the top, the pleats will, therefore, depend upon the relative
the other end being seamed in with the sleeve ; if | size of pattern and the space into which it has to
it is fastened by a cord it must be used double, be pleated. The pleats should be basted right
either sewed together flat or twisted. In pleating through and lightly pressed down, leaving them
up the end to be sewed to the band, lay box pleats, | afterwards to open as they will.

HOW TO MAKE ROBES AND GOWNS.

249. - No matter of what description, Robes | gram shews that for the distance of the piping the
and Gowns are always made to a set pattern ; the back and sleeves are seamed together from the
only difficulty in making them is, the piping when corner, and that the piping runs off to nothing.
required, and when there is one, the making and But although this is the case, the piping must be
adjustment of the shoulder piece. As regards the continued square to all the ends, as shewn by the
piping itself, full directions are given in par. 18 diagram in par. 18, and the superfluity seamed in
how to do it. The annexed diagram shews the before being cut off. To make the yoke, cut a
arrangement of the parts of a barrister's gown ; that piece of buckram a good seam larger all round than
portion marked D is the plain shoulder piece or yoke, the size it is to be when made up ; baste it and the
the inside circle A , is the gorge, the edge of which material round the edges,then seam the back to the
bottom , the sleeves to the sides, and seam
the sleeves and back together atthe corners,
as represented by the diagram , from thence
thesleeves continuing round the scye. Then
turn the seams on one side, on the top of
the back and sleeves, cut another piece of
HAR

buckram to fit so as to meet the inside

IAN

edges of the seams and thickly flat serge

it into them ; for so far as this second
piece of buckram comes into the gorge
pare it away an inturn . In front of the
yoke, from where the sleeve leaves it, the
foreparts are sewn to the narrow parts,CC,
and the seam turned on one side. Round
the gorge the buckram and material are
turned in together, and, so far as it goes,
over the second layer of buckram . The
yoke is then lined with the samematerial
as the outside. Apart from the points
here treated of, the making of any des
cription of Robe or Gown is very easy ;
for, as we have said , they are all made to a regu
comes no higher up than the seam of the collar of lation style,and the general trade has little to do
the coat over which the robe is worn, the narrow
sides marked C C continue so far down the front, with them ; it would, therefore, be an incumbrance
the larger portion marked Clays partly on the to our work to treat of their many varieties.
shoulder and down theback , and to its hollow edges Whatever may be their special forms, the directions
given will enable any tailor to put in thepiping and
is sewn the sleeves, D D, and the back , E. At the make
corners, where the back and sleeves meet, the dia up a yoke.
 79
A COURT DRESS.

HOW TO MAKE A COURT DRESS.

250 . - COURT DRESS is that prescribed to be collar that will keep its shape ; now pare the cotton
worn by those who have no official costume, it even with the buckram , except at thebottom ,where
being imperative on the part of all Officers,Naval it must be left over a seam , to seam in with the
or Military , and all persons holding offices forwhich collar in sewing on . Then , close at the back of the
embroidery , baste the outside on to the face of the
there is a recognised dress , to appear in the uniform
of their rank or place. A Court Dress Coat is single buckram and turn in the ends and top. To impart
breasted , with a stand collar brought to the front, firmness, if carefully done, thewholemay be pricked
cut round in front of breast, and not to fasten any together with thread through the embroidery . In
where ; the skirt in form the same as an ordi the course of working, the buttons and embroidery
nary Dress Coat, with narrow pointed flaps ; sleeves should be covered with paper or cotton, which should
with a round cuff. The annexed diagram shews not be removed till the coat is finished. As the
the form of coat is not to button, the shanks of the buttons
breast, collar, should all be set through ; to secure flatness on the
and skirt with wrong side, after drawing as much cotton , canvas,
flap. The collar or other material, through the shank as it will hold ,
is embroidered with the ball of a pair of large scissors knock the
all round, the shank on one side, upwards, then spread the ends of
top of ths cuffs whatever is drawn through and sew them down to
and down its the canvas ; to prevent damage in knocking down
top side at the
hind arm , and something soft.
the flaps have The Waistcoat is either of white Cassimere,white
embroidered Quilting, or black Velvet, single breasted , no collar,
edges ; the not cut offat thebottom , and otherwise quite plain ;
whole of the thebuttons are the same pattern as those on the
embroidery coat.
being to pattern. Trousers , when worn , must correspond in colour
The edges are and materialwith the coat, and if of black Velvet,
plain , and the are quite plain ; but if of cloth , then there is a gold
coat is lined
through with lace stripe down the side seam , of prescribed width
black silk . The and pattern ; otherwise the trousers are quite plain .
materialis either So as to secure that the lace is put fair on, in basting
Claret, or Mulberry Cloth , or black silk Velvet. keep as much of the side as possible laying flat,
There are six holes in front, the top one being baste it on the slightest degree easy, and on both
three inches down ; the buttons are gilt, con edges, and turn in the ends at top and bottom , on
vex, bright, mounted with a dead crown. In to the trousers, that is not turned over to the inside.
making, the coatmustbe put fair and plain together, toBaste one stripe first and hold it up the full length
the front must not be drawn in , but the breast see that it is correct ; if either short or long, the
facings should be put in slightly tight across ; in defect will be easily detected . Having got the one
all other respects, except the collar, the directions correct, baste the other stripe to exactly the same
for Dress Coats will apply . The collar is made up length , then side stitch down with yellow or white
with buckram through it, but as we have to deal silk , hiding the stitches as much as possible between
with embroidery, the proceeding must be somewhat the threads of the lace.
Breeches, when worn , like the trousers,must cor
different to that directed in par. 126 , for if an iron
respond in colour and material with the coat.
is applied to either embroidery or lace, it will turn
black in wear. First cut the buckram to the size Whether of Cloth or Velvet, there are either three
and form of the collar, then wet a piece of thin or four flexible buttons at the knee, with a buckle
cotton and press in to the buckram , at the same garter. If of Cloth, the buckle is gilt ; if Velvet,
time stretching it, this will lay the foundation of a either gilt or steel.
 80 HOW TO MAKE

HOW TO MAKE LADIES' GARMENTS,

RIDING HABIT.
251. - Properly speaking, Riding Habit includes , part of both forepart and side,at the sidebody seam ,
the garmentworr on the body, and the train worn and the back part of the cut,whether there are only
to cover the lower part of the person ; but by tailors, one or two cuts. Now seam the side plain , also the
Habit is taken to mean the body garment, and the cut, and if there are two, care must be taken to
train as separate from it. However trimmed , there seam the tongue in quite fair on both edges, other
is no garment subject less to change in its general wise it will bave a twisted appearance when finished .
form than a Riding Habit, which is cut and made If the back and side is not cut in one, keep the back
so as to shew the outline of the figure, its perfection a little easy on at the lower half, if cut in one, then
consisting in its appearance of ease, development a very small seam must be sewn down the line
of the contour, and absenee of creases, conditions marked. As the back of a habit is always cutwhole ,
which must be kept in mind by the maker. To if the back and side are cut in one, the back skirt
accomplish this it is made close fitting, or to ap is stumped to and should be seamed and rantered ;
pear so , by the use of wadding, it is, therefore, when this is the case the skirts and back skirt can
seldom made otherwise than to fasten all the way be seamed across at the sametime. But if the back
up in front, and with a small stand collar. With and side are cut separately , then the skirts can be
the exception, if there are holes and buttons, of a put to before the back, as in a coat, and although
narrow strip of cloth down the front, a Habit, body, there are no pockets and the pleat is made up flat,
skirts and sleeves, are always lined with silk or we prefer to put a hip stay, and we prefer to use
satinet, unless of inferior quality, when Alpaca is silk for all the stays in a habit. A habit skirt being
used . A Habit is always one man's job , and if always cut with a largeamount of spring, no full
wanted in less time than one can make it, help is ness should be kept on ; but to give a clean fit over
obtained by getting the sleeves and linings made. the hip , the bottom of the body should be slightly
Habits are made either to hook and eye or button , stretched before sewing-to, particularly about four
and, although in other respects a habit is made up inches behind the cut. Except the shoulder seams,
the same, this difference of front must be separately which are best left till the linings are basted in, the
considered, we will therefore take in the first place body is now altogether.
a plain habit to button up,and with a Polka skirt. 254 . - Now press the seams, and remember,
252. - First mark and fit up, the fitting up con through all the processes of sewing and pressing,
sisting of no more than cutting the linings, and if that a gradual roundness must be imparted to the
there are any, the cuffs and collar ; the collar should breast, and that there must not be any approach to
be the straight way of the material, themeresttrifle sharpness or point at the top of the cut. After
rounded off in front on the sewing on edge,and not pressing baste in the canvas, usually thin black , lay
much to exceed half an inch in width when made ing the breast flat on it on the board, and first baste
up . In fitting the body lining , consideration must from the top of the cut straight up through the
be given to the amount of wadding , where put, and shoulder, then, with the front part laying smooth ,
how the linings are to be made ; if the wadding is baste down by the cut to the bottom , and round by
to be of an uniform thickness all through, and the front of breast gorge and scye. Let the canvas run
linings put in plain , it will be sufficient to cut them about an inch behind the back of the cut up to the
a little larger than the outside ; but if to be quilted , scye, and as the canvas is thin and on the bias, its
they must be cut still longerand wider ; and if the edge will stretch , so as to lay smooth behind the
wadding is to be thicker over the breast, then to cut. Now pare away the canvas, giving about a
throw the lining fuller across upwards,a little more quarter of an inch step at the end of the gorge, put
should be taken out of the cut than is the case with the stay tape down the fronts, and about four
the outside. inches down the skirts, allowing a sufficient length
253. - After fitting and marking up, seam the at the top to come over the collar seam ; the draw
body together, first slightly stretching the lower | ing in of the frontmust be regulated by theamount
 LADIES' GARMENTS. ' . 81

of breast cut on, the rounder the more must it be the wadding is only flash basted into the linings,
drawn in ; but, in any case , it should not be drawn then they must be basted in easy ; but if they are
in to a straight. The drawing in should commence quilted it will be sufficient to baste them in fair ;
very slightly at the top, be increased in degree , so in basting, they must be kept exactly in their place,
as to be most at the centre of the breast, and then and at this stagedo not baste further forward than
gradually decrease to about a third down from the the centre of the forepart. After the linings are
top of the cut, and be continued quite plain for the basted in , sew theshoulders and seam on the collar,
remaining distance, or, if anything, slightly easy. which is usually of a stated length ; properly, it
At the pleat now compare the length of skirt and should be fair across the back , and not tight on at
back skirt, and turn up and lightly fell the bottom any part of thegorge. Now press the shoulder and
of the skirt for about two inches, then baste down collar seams, and put straight canvas through the
and sew the pleat. collar, not allowing it to comelower down than the
seam , flash baste it on to the forepart canvas, and
255 .- As the body is now ready for the second turn the edges in all round. In a plain habit the
press, the next step is to make the linings, which is edges are stitched in front and along the collar,
done in several ways, but there is always demmett at
the back of thewadding. Totake the two extremes , those of the skirt are left “ bos.”
the wadding is sometimes only flash basted to the 258 . – After the edges are stitched,baste a cloth
linings, and several rows of stitching run round the facing on the left side on the cross with the wool run
top of the cut, and sometimes they are quilted . / ning to the front ; keep it slightly easy, and only
When they are so , the creasing should be done be- wide enough to go a little beyond the back ends of
fore the cut is sewed up , the first row running from the holes. We direct that this facing should be
its top to the top of the facing, and the other rows on the cross as giving more elasticity , and that it
back and front from it. The cross rows should be should wool to the front to prevent any tendency
commenced at the top, run at right angles with the it has to creep and so drawing the foreparts for
others, and carried half way down the cut, below | ward. Now fell the edge of the facings and put
which there would only be the straight rows. After in the holes. The holes in a habit are never more
creasing , sew up the cut and lay the seam on one than an inch apart ; much taste can be shewn in
side, then baste in the wadding to the thickness re marking their run ; the top one, instead of straight
quired, bringing it no lower than the creasing, thin
across, should incline to follow the run of the gorge,
ning it off at the bottom and slightly down the the bottom one the waist seam , which is usually
front. For further directions, see par. 17. more or less pointed ; the intervening ones should
256 . - Now put in the second press, and while I gradually blend in their direction . The holes must
doing so, carefully mold the front and the whole | be clean, strong, and narrow .
body into its proper form , avoid stretching either 259. – After the holes are in , baste on the
the scye or gorge, but slightly stretch the extreme button stay, fell a cloth facing on the right side, to
edge of front in the hollow below the round . If correspond with the left,and press and damp both
this is not done, in consequence of the hollowness, fronts, then put on the buttons, marking them in
when the garment is buttoned , both edges would be the manner directed for Vests in par. 225 . We
tight. After the press is in , the effect of the stretch now come to one of the most delicate operations
ings, for which directions have been given , will be
fully seen ; the breast will shew a gradual swelling connected with Habit making, which, in its degree,
must
form , and behind the cut there will be a clean fit the body, vary with the amount of wadding put through
ting hollow , with a clean spring over the hip. but which , unless very slight, never in
its full thickness comes to the front. To gradually
257. – To enable the shoulder seams to be level off as it were the wadding, with a bodkin
closed and the collar sewed on , baste in the facings, work a quantity between every hole as far down as
skirts, and back linings ; but previous to basting in the wadding comes,most between themiddle ones.
the latter, firmly flash baste to it a piece of wad Then, graduating the one to the other, bring the
ding at the back scye, so as to join that of the fore wadding through the facing to the back of the
part at sideseam and shoulder, also lay about half | holes, let the cloth facing come over the wadding ,
an inch of a pleat in the centre, and baste in slightly, and the silk facing be turned in and back stitched
easy up and down ; in basting in the skirt linings on the cloth . The only object of a cloth facing on
keep them slightly easy across the waist, and at the the right side is for uniformity of appearance, and
hip lay a pleat corresponding to the outside. If gradually thinned off, the wadding should be passed
 82 HOW TO MAKE

under it, and the front finished the same as the left. top one half an inch below the gorge; the eyes so
Next regulate the wadding at side and shoulder that they will project over the edge sufficient to
admit of the hook going in , and the hooks as far
seamsand baste ready for felling in ; then thin the
wadding off towards the gorge, flash baste the back from the edge as the eyes are forward , so that
linings to the collar canvas, and baste the collar when the front is hooked its two edges will meet.
lining over all, across the waist baste the skirt In following this method of putting on the hooks
linings on the top, and fell in all the linings. For and eyes it is necessary to be careful in sewing
making and putting in the sleeves, see pars . 30 to them on not to crease and knock the fronts about,
34, and par. 60. as they cannot be pressed again , but it is attend
260. – Our Habit isnow ready for pressing off, ed with the advantage of securing that the
in doing which let every part lay in the position fronts shall be better pressed than they could be
under the iron must consistent with the form ofthe if the books and eyes were first sewn to the
garment; in pressing across the waist spread the linen , in which case it is scarcely possible to
skirt flat and press as high upon the body as it lays press the front at all in consequence of the obstacle
smooth , then, as much as possible at a time press they would offer. Now fell the edges of the linen
round the cut, always allowing the top to lay on down to those of the front, and on the right side
the end of the board , so as to keep it flat in form . put a catch of the same material as the outfide,
Press the sideseams flat, only press the pleat flat at about three quarters wide, but run off to nothing at
the top ; in pressing the collar lay it straight and bottom and top ; on the inside it is better to face
flat on the board , then the gorge, gradually round, this catch separately than to bring the lining over
laying in its proper position ; in pressing the shoul to the edge. On the collar the position of the hook
ders and sleeve tops keep them flat ; the fronts and eye is reversed, and at each end a piece of the
down the hole and button edgesmustnotbepressed samematerial as the lining should be put under,
again or their appearance would be destroyed , then sew on the hook a little further back from the
Finally damp off and sew on the hip buttons. edge than those on the forepart ; lay the eye in any
261. - IF THERE ARE HOOKS AND EYES,after put convenient place and slightly bend it across its
smallest part, and in sewing it on do not fasten it
ting in the second press baste in the linings, sew down any further forward, and keep it as far back
the shoulder scam and the collar on, but when there as the hook itself , then fell down at the edge and
are hooks and eyes there are no steps to the collar, bottom of collar the material put under the collar
then press them , put the canvas through the collar, lining itself felling over the neck of both hook and
turn in the edges and stitch them . Now take strips eye ), and put a short pricking through all, behind
of linen , across the piece, about two and a half both hook and eye. Weare now ready to baste the
inches wide, and notch them in at intervals of facings down the front, on the right side to fell on
about an inch and a half,nearly half way across, the catch lining in a line with the edge of the fore
then double them down the centre ; the notches part, and on the left side behind the front of the
will allow the stripe to lay flat in the form of the hooks ; after felling down, thinly stitch the linings
edge, and being alternate, no one will be on the top
of the other. Baste these stripes down the fronts at about an inch from the edge, to the canvas, so as
with their double edges very little in from the to preventthem bagging over. In all other respects
front edges, and high enough to take the hook at follow the directions given in the preceding para
collar ends ; then taking the left or hook side for a graphs. Some times, when there are hooks and
guide, stitch on the outside, through all, at a regular eyes, there are also buttons for ornament on the
distance from the edge ; but as it is desirable that left side ; when this is the case, they should be
sewn on before felling down the edgeof the linen.
this stitching should be as near the edge as possible, As buttons are close together on a habit, to save
if the shank of the hook is long it will be sufficient time, instead of fastening off each , the thread can
to allow for the front part of its eye being sewn
down. When there are hooks and eyes the linings be carried on from one to the other.
are brought to the front, and to save the slovenly 262. - IF THERE IS A HUSSAR SKIRT,which is
appearance of holes through them for the front of | now seldom the case, the back is stumped , and the
the hook , bind over the edge of the linen on the left back skirt made up separately. To begin with , the
side, with a stripe of the same material as the back skirt is a plain piece of material, basted on
linings. Then firmly press and damp the fronts, buckram , then draw two lines on each side at their
after which sew on the hooks and eyes, putting the top as wide apart as the width of the bottom of the
 LADIES' GARMENTS.

back and meeting at a point at the bottom , thus
producing the form of a V. Then baste strips of
the materialwith their double edge to these marks,
and as many strips as may be desired , each sepa -
rately, upon these first ones, at the top all to come
edge and edge, but for thinness each under one to
drop a little below the next top one, and at the
bottom each one recedes about an eighth from the
edge of the previous one, and the pleat of the skirt
to recede as much from the edge of the top one. In
other respects proceed as with Polka skirt.
263. - IF THERE IS ANY BRAIDING , no precise
directions can be given , as itmust be done to pat
tern . But if the side seams are braided, and the
back and side are cut in one piece there will be no
occasion to take a seam , as the braid will define its
form . Unless simply bound, if a habit is braided
in the plainest manner, there is always a figure on
the cuff, either a circle , a crow 's toe, or an Austrian
knot. This closes our instructions for making a
Habit ; still, if the train is made up without a body,
that is with a band only , there would have to be
five or six small tabs, placed at proper distances
round thewaist, inside, with a hook in each to sup
port the train , there being corresponding eyes in
the top of the band of the train.

HABIT TRAIN ,
264 . - TRAINS aremadeup in two differentways, for sitting. To accomplish this, and not to throw
the one being cut to a form ,and theother, which we the side pleat too far back requires management ;
will take first, and is now considered old fashioned ,it will be understood that the seams are at the sides,
consisting of two full breadths of the material, and and, therefore, that they will come into the side
has to be made into form by the workman. The pleats, and that a goodly proportion of material
first thing is to seam the two breadths together, can be put into them . Instead, therefore, of placing
leaving an opening about nine inches long in the its centre two thirds of the measure from the front,
left side, and, as we suppose in the first place, the the seam can be placed as shewn by the broken
train is to have a band, sew a broad catch to the line, which would be the under edge of the pleat,
underside of the opening (see next par.), and turn ' and so take nearly the whole of it off the front
breadth of the material, and run
the first front pleat from it a dis
tance under. Supposing, there
fore, themeasure was twelve, the
centre of the pleatwould be seven
inches from the front instead of
eight ; and if it is made two
inches wide, there would be six
inches in front of it and four be
hind. In the front space we
should put six pleats , each shew
ing one inch, and in the back space
eight pleats shewing half an inch
each , allowing the material to run
under as it will, but as much as
possible towards the back. After pleating up, the
in and face the top side of the opening with silk front should be slanted down about three inches,
ferret or binding, and press the seams. The next as shewn by the diagram . Having put in the
thing is to pleat up, laying a top box pleat each pocket, sew on the land , which should run
side, then the pleats , back and front to run from it, backwards from the front edge of the bearer at
so that they will respectively meet back and front D , round the waist to E at the left side ; it is,
as per diagram . A is the side pleat, laying both
ways ; B B are the two front pleats shewn asmeet therefore, double between D and E . Stout can
vas should be seamed in with the band , laying
ing ; and C C the two back ones, also shewn as it at the back of the pleats, so that after sewing
meeting. Taking the half of the skirt, in theory , they will be between it and the band. Make up
two thirds of the material should be pleated behind the edge of the band as required , put on the eyes
into one third of the measure, so as to give room and line it. The diagram represents that the pocket
 84 HOW TO MAKE
bearer is kept in its place by a button on the under other, with the edges of both laying fair on the left
end of the band at D , a hole being worked in the side ; the outline shews the form of the top side,
corresponding part of the band that comes over it ; the broken lines that of the under, the lines D D
the end of the band at E is also kept in its place by being common to both, and the dotted lines the
holes and buttons. But sometimes instead of holes centres of both back and front. It will be seen that
and buttons, strings of ferret are sewn on at D and pleating is nearly dispensed with, and that there is
E ,that at D being brought through a hole in the a considerable difference in the length of the two
top part of the band, which enables them to be sides, the right being the longest. It is this differ
brought round the waist and tie in front. The bot- ence that renders so much pleating unnecessary , as,
tom of the train is turned up about two inches and from the form , length and width are given where
felled round. As the bottom of a train is liable to they are required. As in the train described in the
split in wear, tape should always be tacked round preceding paragraph a slit is left in the left sideand
the bottom , under the upturn . Wemay here men a pocket bearer sewn-to ; D D being the left side ;
tion that this is a modern liability, as our much on the right side A A is to be sewn to CC, level
admired forefathers were in the practice of doub - bottom and top, and whatever A A is longer than
ling a tape, and sewing in abouthalf a dozen small C C must be kept on between E E, which is the
portion that falls over the knee ; A D and C D
shot every four inches or so, and then laying this being
small shot bag under the upturn of the train to the bottoms of the respective halves. At

.
keep it from blowing up. the top, from A to B is the front portion of the
waist, which is kept plain on the band, A resting
265 . — The now more fashionable style of train on the right hip, B on the left ; C to the outside D
is delivered cut into the hands of the workman, but is the top of the underside,and must be pleated so
the uninitiated would find it difficult to put it to as to reduce the whole top to the size of waist.
gether. Instead of two plain breadthsof cloth, the Although the pocket bearer is shewn as laying out
front and back are cut separately and on the single , side the underside, as a matter of course it will be
after the form shewn in the diagram , in which the doubled under the top side and fastened as repre
one is represented as laying one on the top of the sented and described in the prece
ding par. In putting in the pocket,
which should be of silk, first line the
bearer and make up its edges, then
bind the pocketmouth with the pocket
itself, stitch behind,bag it down below
--

the mouth , and at the bottom so that

--

it lays half each way, instead of flat

--

one way. In other respects finish as

--

directed in preceding paragraph .

--
-- -

266 . - IF THERE IS AN UNDER

Body, it is of silk and lined with cot
ton, and is sometimes sewn to the
. . .

train, and sometimes there is a band

between ; it is made to open behind
. . .

and to fasten either with hooks and

eyes, or holes and buttons. In the
. . .

front,at each shoulder, there is a short

strap, with a buckle at the top ; on
. . .

the hinderpart thereare longer straps,

which come over the shoulder and
. . .

pass through the buckle , thus forming

the scye, and enabling the wearer to
. . .

lift up or let down the train at plea

sure ; the annexed diagram shewing
. . .

both the form and arrangement. A is

the centre of front, the top edge B
 LADIES' GARMENTS. 85

B comes under the bust, D is the front strap
with buckle, C shews the strap brought over from
behind and inserted in the buckle. In making ,
whatever seams there are, outsides and linings
can be sewn together, first beginning at the front
and laying the parts in their proper position,
both outsides and insides facing inwards, then lay
them back to back and seam together, then open
and lay one each way ; and if there are quarter
seams, lay the outside back on the outside of front,
face to face ; follow the same with the lining and
seam through all. After seaming put a stay at the
ends of the short straps to take the buckles, and
others through the long ones, then turn in all round,
except the ends of the short straps, pass them from
the outside about half an inch through the buckle
bar, turn down and prick through . If there are
buttons behind put on the proper stays, and fell
the linings all round. But if there are hooks and
eyes there must be a catch on the eye side. As the
body opens behind, somust the train, instead of at
the side ; a slit about nine inches long will therefore
have to be cut in the centre of the under side, to
which a catch should be sewn,and, with the excep
tion of there being no pocket in , it will bemade up
and fastened the sameas the side one ; sew the catch
on the right side, and in tacking lay the left side
over half an inch. When there is a body, a pocket
will still be put in the seam on the left side of the
train ,and can be put in the same as a side pocket
in trousers.

LADIES' RIDING TROUSERS.

267. - LADIES' TROUSERS are usually made have a large crutch and seat lining of chamois.
with waistbands, cut hollow on the bottom edge, so Sometimes ladies'trousers are made of chamois,and
as to grip the waist. The seat is closed behind, but faced round the bottoms, a distance up with cloth .
if there is a fly in front it must come to the leg When made of leather , the best way to sew the
seam , and be made up thin . If the front is closed , seams is to lay them flat, one on the other, and fell
then there are long slits in the side seams, either
made up with flies or holes in the top sides. When both edges with silk . In all other respects treat as
there are openings at the sides, the waistbandsmust cloth , and in pressing use a half cold iron , without
be made to fasten there. If made of cloth they water,merely smoothing over.

LADIES JACKETS ,
268 . - When a Lady desires a Jacket of supe- , special, either in form or trimming , the best advice
rior style and make, it is usual to resort to the we can give the workman is to realise in his own
tailor ; the ordinary Mantle maker not being equal mind what is intended before he commences it, then
to the task of producing such an impressive,although there would be little fear of the result, and an hour
perhaps a more pretentious garment. For although so spent would not be lost time. It would often
even as made by tailors, there is an amount and save much after annoyance if the mind first deter
variety of ornamentation, one of their characteris mined how to guide the hand , so as to supply the
tics is their comparative plainness, relying for their place of special training, and put himself in the
distinction upon perfection of style and excellency same position as regards an unknown garment as he
of workmanship. For this reason Ladies' Jackets is with a known one. Ladies' Jackets are made in
are put into the hands of the best workmen, who a large number of forms ; many are simply loose
have little difficulty in understanding and producing
Reefers or Lounges , and are so made up , with vari
what is wanted. Not only as applicable to these, | ations in form to suit the difference in figure and
but any garment about which there is anything style ; some are loose in front and fit close , or half
 86 HOW TO MAKE

close behind ; others are Joose behind, and fit or box pleating, its top shewing the section of the
half fit in front, and others are altogether close fit pleats and how they are formed , the spaces between
ting ; and whatever may be the form , there is some- the A 's each representing the front of a pleat. If
times a stand collar and sometimes a fall with vari- | pleated regular it will be seen that corresponding
ous lengthsand forms of turn. When there is a turn, pleats are also formed at the back , laying half each
the front part of the collar should be adapted to it, way over the front ones, but if desired,more ma
and at the back of the turn the hind part dropped terial could be pleated in. Taken singly, a box
well down, as the stand is always low , and length pleat can be laid top or under ; B B on the diagram
required on the fall edge . If a Jacket is single in par. 264, is an example of an under one ; and A
breasted and close fitting , the general principles laid on the same diagram of a top one ; both used to
down for Habits will apply ; but if it should be facilitate the throwing of plain pleats to or from
close fitting and double breasted , the fronts would them . The same as in a Habit,in making either a
require some little manipulation , as thewhole of the close or half close Jacket, the figure must be de
hollow at the waist in front should not be taken out veloped , and all pleats and parts must appear to
at the cut. Therefore , to make the one front lay lay free ; there must not be the slightest approach
fair on the other, the edge should be stretched in to restraint anywhere, one of the chief features of
proportion to the hollow , and the width of lapel Ladies' garments being that they should appear to
cut on. Tight, or semi-tight Jackets, are made up take their form from the figure, not adapted to it.
behind with pleats like a coat and a whole back When made by tailors, Ladies' Jackets are often
skirt, with box pleat laid in the centre of back skirt made up with plain edges, but are generally either
or box pleats both at hip and centre, and arranged bound or flat braided , and, if flat braided, are
in various ways. The diagram shews the method of often traced behind ,and sometimes on both edges.
When the edges are traced , the tracing cord should
not be laid on monotonously all round , but eyes
should be thrown inwards or outwards at all ends
and corners. When a jacket is flat braided it is
usual to put some ornamenton the sleeve, such as
an Austrian Knot, a Crow 's Toe, or to throw a
circle ; full instructions for the formation of these
and many other forms of ornamentation will be
found in our directions for military garments.

BOYS' AND YOUTHS' CLOTHING ,

269. - JUVENILE CLOTHING generally does not and satisfactory evidence of progress than the re
require detailed instructions at our hands as to its volution that has taken place in the style and man
making ; two essential elements, however, must ner of clothing the younger generation, who have
always be kept in view - plainness and strength . passed entirely beyond the tyranny of skeleton
By plainness we do not refer to trimming but dresses to the freedom of knickerbockers and loose
making, and mean that there should not be any jackets. To such a degree has their importance in
shrinking and stretching to give form , as in the creased , that instead of the old garments of their
case of garments for adults. With the exception elders being re -made for them — a practice truly of
of the Sailor Jacket, about which it is not neces- putting new wine into old bottles — there are estab
sary to give directions,and the Eton Jacket, which lishments specially devoted to the administration
wewill treat separately, all garments worn by Boys of their comfort and decoration. Yet, although
and Youths are, except as regards size, the same as this is the case, so close, in their plain state , do
men's ; the Round Jacket is only a short Lounge, Juvenile Garments approach the form and make of
and the Polka is the same, rendered still more those worn by men, that we cannot separately deal
simple. There is, perhaps, no more characteristic ) with any but
 BCYS' AND YOUTHS' GARMENTS .

THE ETON JACKET,

270 . - Even this garment does not require always one inside breast pocket, sometimes two,
much explanation at our hands ; before, however, and sometimes an outside one. The edges are
we proceed far, it will be as well to state what is almost invariably plain. In commencing to make,
an Eton Jacket, as the distinction is most errone | shrink the centre of the back , most towards the bot
ously applied to several different forms. The Eton | tom ; having done so , sew all the seams fair. The
Jacket bears nearly the same relation in the dress of front must in no way be shrunk or drawn in , except
a youth ,as a Dress Coat does in that of a man, and when necessary to give form to the turn. At the
is invariably made of superfine cloth ; it is cutwith bottom flash baste the upturn to the canvas, as far
a whole back, is single breasted , not cut to button, as it goes, and also to the sidebody seams, the
has either a small turn with a step collar, a lapel jacket being always lined to the sideseam , and the
turn or a regular roll, and is more or less hollow at upturn across the back felled down on itself. In
the bottom . The turn is always moderately long, all other particulars consult the instructions given
and if a roll it turns nearly to the bottom ; there is
WIDE
for each , under the head of Frock and Dress Coats.
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HOW TO MAKE
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 GARMENT MAKING .- INDEX - PART THREE,
LIVERIES,
271 This section gives an account of
the nature of Liveries and their
ed flap with
diagram pointsupwards,with
shewing 292 If there is a stripe.
the position of :293
origin ; How they have sprung buttons on it. If there is a narrow Jeating.
from the followers of old Aristo 282 Valet's or Butler's Dress Coat, 294 If there is a lapped Jeating.
cracies and branched into two with dia. shewing form of lapel 295 Ifthere is lace downthe sideseam
divisions, 1st, the Livery of Ser.
vants,and 2nd , the Uniforms of 283 and collar and position of holes. 296 Servant's Drawers.
Coachman's plain Frock.
Armies. 297 House Jackets.
272 Instructions as to making, and 284 Coachman 's full Dress Coat. with anof illustra
Jacket,details
Page'sshewing
298 tion
the necessity of displaying their 285 Groom 's Frock. the dif.
peculiar features. 286 Footman 's Dress Coat, with il ferent ways of making up ; the
273 How to edge. lustration shewing the general section treating 1st, Ifwith holes
274 How to work notched holes. form of front and collar, the run and buttons ; 2nd, if with hooks
of notched holes , and the position and eyes ; 3rd , Ifwith studs ; 4th ,
275 How to form Lace holes ; illustra of the buttons. Ifwith side
If with
rowsof buttons; 5th ,
shoulder cords, and how
ted with a diagram shewing how
to form them , and to lay the 287 shewing
Footman 's Coatee,with diagram
the form of lapel and
to twist the cords ; and general
cushions. directions how to make.
276 How to put on buttons. collar, and the number and posi 299 Postilion's Jacket.
tion of holes ; andan illustration
277 How to put on Aigulettes. Epau shewing the form and position of 300 Huntsman's Coat.
lettes, Knots and Shoulder Cords the sword flap. 301 Gamekeeper's Coat.
278 How to make up cuffs, treating 288 Livery Waistcoats, with an illus 302 Livery Great Coats, illustrated
of their different forms— if plain , tration shewing the form and with diagrams, shewing the form
or with notched holes or slashed , position of flap when there is a
skirt cut on . of lapeland position ofholes,and
with two diagramsshewing posi form of flap on Coachman 's Great
tion ofnotched holes, slashes and | 289 Servant's Breeches; 1st, How Coat. The section gives dircc
lacings. they are made for different ser. tions as to the making of Great
279 How to pipe seams. vants ; 2nd, If they have Buckle Coats generally, and their differ
280 How to make up side-edges, long or Gold Garters ; 3rd , If of Vel ence for Coachmen and Footmen ,
and short, with diagrams shew veteen or Plush , and if of Plush , 303 This section treats fully on the
ing their form , position , and po how to counteract their tendency making of Box Coats, and is illus
sition of buttons. to “ creep " in sewing. trated by a diagram shewing the
281 How to cut and make flaps ; 1st, 290 Servant's Gaiters,with diagrams
fully illustrating how they are form of Panteen collar, the band
to which the capes are attached ,
Flap and frame of Coachman's put together and the position of and form of collar tab . The ar
Frock , with diagram shewing the holes and buttons ; also full
laced flap and frame ; 2nd, Flap explanations of their different rangement of capes and tabs to
of Footman's Dress Coat, with furms and modes of making up. button the coat over the knees
diagram shewing form and posi are fully explained , and also every
tion ofbuttons under ; 3rd, Point- | 291 Servant's Trousers. other detail of the garment.

804 Explanation of the course to be
followed in treating thesubject
the importance ofexactitude, and
that ornaments must be paired.
305 This section gives directions as 311 the degrees of rank they denote.
to the principles thatmust be fol
lowed in forming of ornaments.
306 Explains the extentto which the
Dress Regulations of the Army
are dealt with ; object, so as to 313 When and where wax should not
make theinstructionsgivenuseful
whateverchangesmay take place
307 Explains how the different forms
of ornamentation given on the
Plates can be produced to the
full size .
308 States thatthe information given
refers to Officers' Uniforms.
309 Explains how Gold or yellow is
used in the ornamentation of the
- - -
MILITARY UNIFORMS.
Regulars, and Silver or white in 316 How to draw in the fronts of
the Auxiliary Forces. single breasted garments.
310 Explains how badgesareused and 317 How to put in Linen or Canvas,
States where “ garniture ” and
if the garment is single breasted ,
and if it is double breasted .
information may be obtained . 318 How. lapelfacings should be put
812 Why themaking of Uniformsare 319 on
How to arrange the wadding in
described in parts.
a Military Uniform .
be used . 320 How the linings of Military gar
ments are made up.
314 How to treat a back when the 821 has
Howany
to takepuffsoutifthe breast
width it is cutdoes not agree with ornamentation on it.
the ornamentation that is to go
on it. 322 How to edge narrow with either
316 How a lapel should be cut and velvet or cloth .
sewn on so as to affect the draw 323 How to edge broad.
ing in of the front, whether the 324 How to cord edges with Gold,
lapel be broad or narrow . Silver, or Mohair.

325 How to lay Cord,Gimp, or Braid
on the edges.
326 How to put Lace on an edge, and
if there are hooks and eyes and
lace, how to proceed , or if there
are studs and lace.
327 different
How and kinds
under what conditions
of pockets are
put in .
328 How to treat the button stand of
single breasted garments.
329 Why to face the right side of
single breasted garments.
330 How to put leathers acrosswaist.
331 How to put on waist clasps, with
a diagram .
332 How the drop of the sleevemust
be treated when there is orna
mentation on the cuff.
833 This section gives full instruc
tions for the making up of cuffs
when laced ; 1st, Of their form ;
2nd, How to draw the lace in the
hollow ; 3rd , How to turn the
point ; 4th , How to proceed if
there is edging, and to sew on
lace if there is no cuff.
334 How to put the sleeves in .
335 How to proceed if a lapel to turn 350 Infantry Shell Jacket : for a Sub 365 Dragoons; for Lieutenant- Cap
has facings of a different colour
336 How to put in holes if themate
rial is scarlet.
337 How to put on hooks and eyes. 351 Infantry Scarlet PatrolJacket.
338 How to put on studs.
339 How to pipe seams, and to ar 353 Infantry Tunic ; for a Sub-Lieu 368 How to obtain particulars not
range if sideseam and hind -arm
of sleevo are piped .
INDEX - PART THREE .
340 How to sew on buttons, and 354 Infantry Great Coat, with dia
which to set through . grams shewing the arrangement
341 How to form lace holes. of fronts, pockets, sword hole,
side slash and back tab.
collar for a Mili
342 How to make ;a 1st,
tary garment Ifplain ; 2nd, 355 Infantry Mess Waistcoat.
If edged ; 3rd, If laced ; 4th , If 356 Highland Regiments ; for a Sub
embroidered . Lieutenant- Lieutenant - Capt.
343 How to put on Badges. - Major - Lieut.-Col. or Colonel.
344 How to puton Epaulettes, Shells, 357 tenant-
Rifle Regiments; for a Lieu
Captain - Major- Lieut.
Knots, or Cords. Colonel or Colonel.
345 How to put in metal fasteners 358 Royal Engineers ; for a Lieu
for Epaulettes, with a diagram . tenant - Captain - Major - Lieu
346 How to make a Chevron , with an tenant-Colonel or Colonel.
illustration shewing its form , the ! 359 Royal Artillery - Foot : for Lien
arrangement of its bars and tenant - Captain - Major - Lieu
edging. tenant-Colonel or Colonel.
347 How to make a Coatee Skirt, 360 Royal Artillery - Horse ; for
with an illustration shewing the Lieutenant- Captain -- Major -
form and position of pleat and Lieutenant-Colonel or Colonel.
turnovers. 361 Artillery Stable Jacket ; for Sub
348 Introduction to the summary of alterns-- for Field Officers.
the Uniforms of the British 362 Artillery Mess Waistcoat.
Army. The following sections
direct how the differentuniforms 363 tain
Lancers ; for Lieutenant- Cap
are made for Officers of the - Major - Lieut.-Colonel or
Army, according to the Dress Colonel
Regulations now in force. 364 Hussars ; for Lieut.-Colonel
tain - Major- Lieutenant- Cap
849 Lord Lieutenants and Deputy or
Lieutenants of Counties. Colonel
Lieutenant - Lieutenant - Cap tain - Major - Lieut.-Colonel or
tain - Major - Lieut.-Colonel, or 366 Colonel.
Instructions on the formation
Colonel. Austrian Knots, Crow 's Toe andof
figures generally.
352 Infantry Blue Patcol Jacket. 367 Dragoon Stable Jacket.
tenant- Captain - Major - Lieu contained in the Dress Regula
tenant-Colonel or Colonel. tions.
_ _ _ __ _ _ _
 HOW TO MAKE LIVERIES.

271. – Before proceeding to the technicalities or interest of great families, or the hasty levies of
of what is now understood by the word Livery, it Kings, Nations provide their ownmeansof defence,
will not be uninteresting to notice their origin, and and dress their defenders in what is truly a Livery,
the position of those who have, and who now wear which it is considered an honour to wear. So that
out of the old practice , there is developed two
them . The word itself is derived from the French, Liveries, the one following the principles of its
and according to our restricted application of it,
foundation - personal attachment to a family,which
means a particular dress prescribed by a master and has sunk into a mark of servitude ; the other being
worn by a servant ; but its original signification
was far wider than this, and meant any dress worn evidence of service to the nation, is an honourable
for distinction, either of office, membership or ser distinction,
tion and is
has even thrown off its ancient appella
now called - Uniform .
vice, the service being military , and excluding the
dresses worn by classes or trades. We have an In the remaining pages of our work we shall
example of its original meaning in the Companies treat of the making of these two distinctive divi
of the City of London,the members of which are sions of dress, taking first what is usually under
entitled, by prescriptiou or charter, to wear distinc stood by Livery .
tive and exclusive dresses, consisting of cloaks and 272. - In making Liveries, strength, detail,and
badges, and are . collectively called the Livery. plainness must be attended to. There must be no
Still referring to the City of London , and properly | approach to anything like fashion , and no attempt
applying the word — Dogget's Coat and Badge, made to set off the figure — no pressing back of
rowed for by river apprentices, is a livery, proudly breast or skirt ; lapels, collars, and flaps must be
worn because honourably won . Ourmodern liveries flat and plain. As all Liveries are more or less
spring from a practice that prevailed at no very working garments , they must be strongly made,
distant period amongst the aristocracy of nearly all and sufficiently and firmly stayed at all points
European countries. At that time aristocracy — the where there is any strain . Being worn for distinc
essential element of which is mastery - enjoyed tion, their peculiar features must be well displayed.
more power than it does at present, and for the Both as facilitating easy reference, and to save the
sake of preying on such plebian neighbours as they constant repetition of the same information, before
had, and brother nobles if possible, each maintained proceeding to the garments themselves, we will
as many retainers as he could, who were all not give full and separate instructions upon all their
only able, but willing fighting men. The retainers details.
of each great man wore a dress of his choosing, 273 . — How to EDGE. — Livery edging is formed
his livery, and were fed from his table. Without of cloth of a different colour to the garment itself,
in any way ministering to his personal comforts or cut into strips, it should be cross way of the wool,
wants, their business was to fight athis bidding , or and is best used wrong side-out. If the strips need
without it, if they could advance his honour or in to be joined, they should be stoated together and
terest. As the people rose in power and advanced then pressed on the double . After the second press,
in civilization, a check was put upon these violent all the edges of the garment are then felled on to
proceedings, and as the nobles struggled against the edging, and afterwards also all facings and
the change, their dependents diminished in number, linings ; before it is felled to , all edges should be
and gradually but totally changed their character ; pared even , and wherever there is either staytape
although still wearing the livery of their masters or canvas, the edge should be nearly level with
they degenerated into menials — in another form them . The edging should project sufficiently be
wearing their dress as a badge of servitude. Con yond the edge to give boldness of appearance, and
currentwith this change in one direction , another the first felling should catch through , so as to give
was also going forward , out of which was evolved it firmness. After putting in the first felling, turn
that other development of power by the people , to the inside
National Armies. Instead of trusting to the favour edging close toandthepare awayand
felling, thewhere
underthere
half isof can
the
 92 HOW TO MAKE
vas, flesh baste the edging on it, then turn back every one set ; on reaching the end of the hole cast
again to the outside, and where there is no canvas one stitch across the barring, catching hold of the
baste the edge down on the edging, keeping the last loop formed, then turn the hole round and work
latter a little tight back , after which press the edge, the second side, in doing which , catch hold of the
and baste over. In felling the facings and linings barring and the thread of twist between each pearl of
on the edging , keep them a shade over the first the firstworked side, and on reaching the end, cast
sewing. Atall corners edging must be kept sharp, one stitch across, taking hold of the first pearl
which must be attended to in carrying it round, it thrown. Notched holes are sometimes worked in
being best to prick fell in doing so ; pare away the two colours, alternating with each other at about
surplus inside and serge the edges together, tight every half inch ; in that case a needle must be used
enough to make the corner sharp , but not to cause for each colour, and be passed down and up as the
a dent on the edge. Where buttons have to be hole progresses. When worked , a notched hole
placed near edging, which must be done before should be soft and pliable, which it will not be if
lining, as on flaps and the button edges of single worked too thick or the hand pulled tight, and if
breasted coats and waistcoats, all the parts must not pliable , it will not close at the top , neither can
be well pressed and damped after the first felling to, it be set up, which is done by placing it in the
as it cannot be done after the buttons are on , and groove of a notch board proper, or one in the flat
they are put on before lining or basting over. edge of a sleeve board , then moderately wetting on
274 . — How To WORK NOTCHED HOLES. — About the wrong side and pressing hard. Before pressing ,
a century back from the presenttime, notched holes however, care must be taken that the whole of the
were a prominent feature in ordinary clothing, from hole is in notch, and in its proper position, which
which period a gradual and total revolution has may be judged of and facilitated by rubbing along
taken place in dress. Instead of loose habiliments , with the finger ; it is also a good plan to draw the
loosely made, we passed to a style in which the hole once backward and forward in the notch . The
wearers could scarcely move, in which padding, gloss occasioned on each side of the hole by notch
canvas,and buckram played a distinguished part ; ing should be removed by laying the damp rag
wealso passed from the three cornered hat to the close up to, but not over oragainst the hole . When
chimney pot. Whether it is a prejudice in favour cord is used, instead of working a notched hole , the
ends are put down through all ; and following the
of what one is accustomed to or not, it is impossible
straight line, it should be pricked on through the
to say, but certainly our present style appears the
canvas on the breast,and through a thin interlining
most reasonable, both on the score of appearance at
and comfort. Our Liveries in many of their features,all other parts.
retain the peculiarities of the first named period ; 275 . — How TO FORM LACE HOLES. — There are
amongst these is the notched hole, although even two descriptions of lace used in the ornamentation
it appears to be undergoing the process of gradual of Liveries ;Gold or Silver, and Worsted , or what
extinction, as, even in Liveries, it is not so general is commonly called drummer's lace ; whichever
as it used to be ; and when used , an imitation cora may be used,it is treated in the samemanner, ex
is very frequently made to do duty for it, so that cept that the latter is sewn on with thread, and the
how to work a notched hole promises shortly to others with silk . Taking a plain lace hole , as re
become a lost art, very few tailors being now able presented by the diagram , all the marking required
to make one. As a necessary part of our work ,
which may also serve to rescue it from oblivion ,we
will describe the process :— First lay a thick barring
along the line of the hole, which may be of four
cord thread, carried twice along ; with an over
thread of twist fasten the barring down, through
canvas and all, preserving the straight line, and is a straight line atwhere its centre is to be, or one
casting the stitches of the over sewing about a of its outer edges ; then , beginning at the top right
quarter of an inch apart. We are now ready to hand corner, lay the lace straight along and prick
make the hole , to do which take a thread of twist. | serge the end firmly down, and carrying the lace
and work along the barring, without taking hold of along, prick stitch it down the length the hole is to
the material, thin and soft, pulling the hand straight be, keeping it fair, or if anything, slightly easy ,
up ; the degree of thinness may be regulated by but at any rate not tight, then turn it very sharp
supposing that another stitch has to go between round the corner, keeping it a shade full just at the
 LIVERIES. 93
corner, and the same at all the corners ; continue and monogramsbeing sometimes complicated - put
down the end the width the hole will be, to ascer it on in accordance with the name of the maker,
tain which lay the lace in the position the lower which is always at the upper edge of the button on
half will occupy, allowing for a small light or open theundersides.
ing between the two inside edges. After having
pricked the lace on all round, prick along the two 277. - HOW TO PUT ON AIGULETTES, EPAULETTES,
KNOTS AND SHOULDER CORDS. — To ascertain the
inside edgesand form the cushions ; to do this, lay proper position
the lace in equally on each slanting edge so that in which to place any of these arti
their inside ends are about one fourth of the total cles, lay the shoulder on the back of the hand and
width of the hole. To give the cushions a full ap hold it up, when its exact sit can readily be seen ;
pearance, stuff a little wadding into them , then then mark the position of whatever is to go on , so
prick fell the sides, keeping the stitch well under, that it will pitch the least shade towards the front.
and prick stitch the ends; it will, therefore, be seen If the Aigulette or Epaulette is not to be sewn on ,
that the object is to keep the sides of the hole flat which is sometimes the case, there are eyes on the
and to throw up its ends. When a lace hole is underside,and corresponding eyeletholes areworked
slanted instead of straight, it assumes the form in the shoulder, through which the eyes are put,
shewn on the collar of diagram in par. 283, and the and tie with a lace or string inside. When there are
cushions are laid in the form there represented . shoulder cords, there is always a button at the top,
Where each form of hole is used depends upon the and if not twisted, the cord is pricked together on
style of the livery. If on the breast, the ends are the double through its outside edges, sufficientbeing
left open atthe double end , or top , to take the button .
square and do not follow the form of the edge ; if If the cord has to be twisted by the workman , take
they did, the upper and lower ones would slant in the double end between the teeth and twist the two
opposite directions. If on a stand collar, the hole halves alternately over each other, in the manner
is sometimes square at the ends, but usually of the shewn on the diagram in par. 299. but the twists
form shewn on the diagram , par. 283. If a lace hole would be thicker and closer than there shewn.
is put on a fall collar, it is usually square, though When there is a shoulder cord the loose ends passes
sometimes it may be seen slanting. When there into the scye, as shewn on the same diagram , to
is a hole in a fall collar, it must be put on after the admit ofwhich a space must be left open in seaming
collar is covered and pressed, and is sewn through in the sleeve, and a sufficient allowance of sleeve
all. In putting it on, see that the lace follows the left to come easily over the cord , the scye portion
form of the collar, and shews as little sewing as of the seam within that space being turned down.
possible on the inside. Cords or Epaulettes are not put on till after the
276 . – How TO PUT ON BUTTONS. — All buttons garment is pressed eff, and their top edge should
that are for ornament only, as on or under flaps, always be about half an inch from the collar seam .
hips, side edges, collars, right sides and left sides , When there is a cord , the putting in of the sleeve
if also with hooks and eyes, should have their shanks can be entirely finished, except the space left open
set through. To do this, with a bodkin make the for the cord , into which its end can afterwards be
smallest hole through which the shank can possibly inserted and the edge of the sleeve pricked on to it
be forced, then, on the inside, after closing thehole through all.
round the shank, cast a four cord thread several 278. - How TO MAKE UP CUFFS.— When there
times tightly round its neck and fill the eye with are no hand facings, as much of the forearm
any soft, easily compressed material, after which as comes under the cuff must be turned , the seam
knock the top of the shank down very little, and itself being stoated on ; the lining will then cuff
not any on one side, as livery buttons have some just below the top of the cuff. A plain cufffallis
times to do duty more than once ; lastly, sew to the made up with a slit having two holes, one in the
canvas the ends of the material drawn through the cuff and one above ; or a very common way is to
eye. In sewing on shank buttons that are to be put a plain round cuff and set the buttons through
used , set the first two or three stitches along and
in the same position as they would occupy if there
close under the shank, and then each succeeding was a slit. When there are notched holes on the
layer on the outside of the previous ones, so as to cuff, it is a plain round one, and the holes, or the
avoid putting one stitch through another, as, to do cord in imitation, must be put on before the cuff is
so, has a tendency to cut them . If there is any
doubt as to which is the top of a button - figures turned up, the buttonsbeing afterwardsset through,
the whole assuming the form shewn by diagram A ,
 94 HOW TO MAKE
there being neither slit norbuttons at the hind arm ; | diagram B,and however the edge may be made up,
neither is there a slit when the sleeve has a slash , the arrangement of points and buttons would be
or an imitation one at the forearm . When there is the same as shewn. When there is an imitation
slash , it is cut wide enough to extend from the
forearm the width desired, usually not so far over
DIA .A .
as the edge of a real slash ; the edge is then turned
in and it is basted into its position, on the top
sleeve, at the forearm — the hindarm being pre
viously sewn and the cuff put to, and is then sewn
in with the seam , which is either opened or pressed
on one side, with the slash under. The slash is
either felled on the sleeve, or the sleeve fastened on
to it, as in the case of the real slash ; in all other re
spects finish the same as when there is a slash.
a slash the sleeve should be cut up the length it is 1 279. - How To PIPE SEAMS.— Just cut or tear
to be (about 6 inches), as from C to D , on diagram the piping, which should be on the cross, into
B , at about an inch and a half from the forearm the least thing more than two seams width , and
then crease it wrong side out. In putting it in
baste it even with the outside edge of all the seams
where it is to be, and in sewing , seam so that the
least portion of the double edge of the piping is
outside the seam on the right side ; and in pressing
STY

open the piping on the wrong side, it will then be

level with the surface of the seam on the right
side.
280 . - HOW TO MAKE UP SIDE EDGES, LONG AND
DIA . B . SHORT. The sameas a slash or a flap, the side edge
originally was placed at the entrance to a pocket,
and although in abeyance in general costume, it
retains its place as an ornament in liveries, butoften
in a most degenerate form ; the long side edge in a
seam , the slash itself being cut wide enough to pro Coachman 's Frock is sometimes represented by the
ject the distance intended and to reach so as to buttons only ,and in Overcoats and Groom 's Frocks,
fasten to the forearm seam on the inside. Properly, it is becoming the practice to stitch down to the
there should be holes in a slash ,but it is now the back an imitation side edge, practices which can
practice, after putting it in , to set the buttons only be a step towards their entire disuse. Taking
through all. The slash itself is fixed by being first the side edge in a Coachman's Frock , itextends
basted in its place, then sewn down to the forearm the whole length of the pleat, as from C to Don
seam , and about a quarter of an inch from its front diagram A . Line A B is the edge of pleat, the side
edge, the sleeve and cuff is privately sewn down on edge shewing a little beyond it ; there being one
the slash ; this , and the putting in of the buttons, button at the bottom , and a middle one a little
should be done before the cuff is turned up, in higher up than half way between the hip and bot
which case it will turn over the sewing in of the tom one, the buttons being so placed if the side
slash and the shank of the button. In making up edge is omitted. Whether the edges of a coat are
a plain slash , its edge, and the edge of the cut up plain or not, it is now the usual practice to turn in
is stitched raw edged , or sometimes the slash itself the edge of the side edge and fell it, but properly
is turned in and left “ bluff.” If the coat is edged , the edge should be made up the same as those of
the cut is sometimes edged and sometimes stitched the same as the coat,
the coat, and should be lined
raw , the slash itself is always edged ; when there whlch is still the case with the liveries of some old
is edging , it can be used broad enough on the under families. In long side edges the buttons are set
side to fasten on the seam and the under sewing through the back skirt,and the shanks covered with
down of the slash . When the coat is laced , it thumb pieces on the inside. The short side edge
would be put on cuff and slash as represented on (diagram B ) is used for Groom 's Frocks aud for
 LIVERIES. 95
overcoats ; it may be cut represented as laced , as a frame cannot be formed
pointed , as represented, or without. A flap frame follows the form of the flap,
straight on the edge ; in whatevermay be its form or the description of gar
BUREEEEEEEEBITININ

either case projecting beyond ment,and is formed on that part of the garment on
the pleat, shewn by the line which the flap is situated at a distance of about
A B. The edge is either half an inch from its edge, thus shewing a light or
“ bluff," or the same as the opening between its own edge and the edge of the
edge of the coat. If the flap. Diagram B is the form of flap for a Foot
pockets are inside, the but- man 's round breasted coat, shewing also the position
tons are set through and of the buttons under a flap,which we will further
treated the same as the explain : the centre point of the flap should come
Coachman 's. If outside, the slightly over the centre of the button when the gar
middle button is ment is laying flat, in which case, when it is on,
sometimes set
through the half
of the side edge,
and sometimes В
DIA .A . - particularly
in great coats,
there is a hole in
the side edge and
the button set
DIA

in the back skirt, rather more than half will shew ; the end buttons
VH
.B

to take which ,a must be placed at the samelevel, at equaldistances

stay, covered by from the centre one, and so close to the ends of the
a thumb piece, flap that the edge of the button will just clear it.
must be put on Diagram C is a flap puton,with the points upwards,
the wrong side. partly on the forepart and partly on the skirt, the
If a short side line X X representing the waist seam , on which the
edge is pointed , buttons are placed as shewn. The flap is sewn to
themiddle point along its bottom
BD must be in the edge, and its other
B edges are sewn close
centre, but the down,whether plain ,
distance between the buttonsmust be so regulated
that the top space is about half an inch less than edged or laced . Al
the bottom . though represented
as cut hollow at the
281. - How to CUT AND MAKE FLAPS.— Dia bottom , that must
grams A, B and C represent the flaps put on full depend upon the
dress liveries and are drawn to a quarter scale, they style of cut, for
can therefore be easily reproduced with all their when finished itmust
proportion of parts. Diagram A is the flap and be straight,therefore
frame of a Coachman's Frock, which is necessarilly if the coat is flat
- - - - - -
 96 HOW TO MAKE
and loose the flap would be cut straight, but if | tinue the breast facing to the side seam , at about
the coat fits at the waist, the flap must be hollowed two inches wide at the bottom of the scye, leaving
to the degree necessary and be stretched into a the space vacant between the bottom of the facing
straight, so as to throw spring atthe top and a slight
hollow on the waist line.
282. – VALET's or BUTLER's Dress Coat. These
coats are made up in a
plainermanner than if
for a gentleman . The
lapel is cut slightly
narrower and less
shapely. The bottom
holes are worked round ,
those on the turn less
slanted and the top
one nearer the top of
the lapel. If the col
lar end ismade up with
a snip , itmustbeshort,
so as only to touch the
top of the lapel ; lapel
and collar assuming the
form shewn on the an
nexed diagram . These
coats should not be
made up " boss ” edged ,
nor should they be
corded , but simply a
plain raw edge. The la
pel should be inade to
turn between the second
and third hole ,and with
a slight degree of free
dom . It is not usual
now , to put inside
skirt pockets into
either Butler's or Valets
dress coats , but there
is sometimes an inside
breast pocket.
283. - COACHMAN'S
PLAIN Frock , in single
breasted with flaps,
cross waistand pockets
under, long side edges,
collar the same as a gentleman's S. B. Frock.
The flap is the same in form as shewn in par. and top of back piece and the sidebody seam un
303, but proportionally less - about 10 inches long covered . But if the side is lined the breast facing
and four deep. As the skirt is usually lined with should still be continued under the scye.
a half breadth of Shalloon, the pocket should 284.- COACHMAN'S FULL DRESS Coat, which
be bagged and a long back piece should be put on , may either be a Frock or a round breasted Dress
to reach to the back ofbreast facing. It is notusual Coat,would not differ in making up from a plain
to put side linings in servants' coats, but to con coat of the same description , except as regards
 LIVERIES. 97
accessories, separately described under not be any longer than to touch the
their proper heads, which can be re top of the lapel. The sword flap , the
ferred to as required . Those refering form ofwhich is shewnon theannexed
diagram , is a single piece of cloth ;
a round breasted coat, and the collar, the straight edge is seamed on the
will be found under the head of skirt, and the top,bottom , and pointed
Footmen's Full Dress, par. 286 . edges — the latter turned towards the
285. — GROOM'S FROCK, the only plait — are made up the same as the
difference between this and a Coach edges of the coat ; if plain, stitched
man's is,thatit invariably buttonshigh , raw on theskirt ; if edged , felled down
that the collar is lighter ; that there is with the edging. For the length of
no flaps across the waist, and that the flap no rule can be given,as it va
there are short side edges with three ries with the length of the skirt ; some
buttons, instead of long ones. times it is so arranged that its top edge
seams in with the waist,and some
286 . - FOOTMAN'S Dress COAT. — times is an inch below ; but even when
This is a round breasted coat, fastening
with a hook and eye, and having a
stand collar, the whole assuming the
form shewn by dia . in preceeding page.
With the exception of accessories,
which are described under their se
parate heads, the coat is made up
quite plain , the front must not be
drawn in , but only just steadied ; the
facings however should be put in
slightly tight across. There are
sometimes one, and sometimes two
sets of notched holes, in arranging
which the only rule that can be given
is, to mark them so as to appear at
equal distances apart, and that their
differences of length form a gradual
sweep. In the collar there is some
times lace holes, with or without a
button at the back end ; when there
is a button, its shank is set through
close up to the inside edge of the
cushion. Instead of lace there is some
times one, and sometimes two notched
holes at the endsof the collar. For making the col- | it comes to the seam , we prefer to seam the flap on
lar, see directions under Court Dress, par. 250. after the first press and make up the top thesameas
the other edges. Although the seam is turned on one
287. - FOOTMAN'S COATEE ; in its general form , side it should appear as if it was opened, and there
this garment is a short skirted dress coat, cut wide fore should be so beforebeing basted down. In the
enough to button ; having a sword flap on the skirt, aiagram the flap is laid in the position it would be
and two buttons under the plait arranged the same on the skirt, the top running with the waist seam ,
as those in a Coachman's Frock, but without a side the bottom pointing to the bottom of the skirt, and
edge. There is usually five holes up the front, the centre point between the two ends. The but
three below and two on the turn, arranged as shewn tons are equal distances apart, the middle one on a
on the diagram , which also represents the usual straight line drawn from the point, parallel with
form of lapel and collar end. The la pel must not the top.
be pointed nor too narrow at the bottom , neither 288. - WAISTCOATS. - For a plain vest very few
must the holes be slanted, and the collar end must directions are necessary, according to the practice
 98 HOW TO MAKE

of the family, they are made up with a plain stand and the garter, which is simply gold lace, is sewn
collar, a plain roll, and a roll and step. As they flat on the bottom . When breeches are made from
are always cut long , the button holes should be a Velveteen , and there is no danger of there being
distance up from the bottom of the vest, in propor- altered , they are best sewn with the machine ; the
tion to its length ; for the same reason there is an same also with plush ; when sewn by hand, double
opening left at the bottom of the sideseam , also in thread must be used for both these materials ,and if
proportion to the length of the vest ; and some not taped, the seams of plush must be serged . For
times a slit is left in the centre of back . The economy the undersides of Plush breeches are fre
sleeves in a vest should be made and put in as di- quently cut to wool up, the pile of the top sides
rected in par. 297. Servant's Waistcoats should running down, in which case they are difficult to
have strings and not back -straps. If a vest is to to sew , and a basting thread has little or no hold en
hook and eye, for the putting on of the hooks and them . The best plan is to hold them together with
eyes see par. 261 ; but if there is lace, the sewing stout needles, to make chalk marks opposite each
down of its inside edge will take the place of the other at short intervals,and in sewing to insert the
stitching, and should be pricked through. If a forefinger between thematerial, between the thumb
waistcoat has a skirt cut on , and there is a flap, the and forefinger and the fore and middle finger ; this
flap would be of the form , and placed as shewn on gives the power of pulling either edge according
the annexed diagram , and for its preservation it is to the direction in which it is inclined to creep,
which can always be noticed by the marks.
290 . — GAITERS for servants are always long,
and whether for Coachmen, Footmen, or Grooms,
do not differ in theirmaking up. The hole edge is
usually stitched plain , and each side of the back
seam , and the bottom and top either single or double
stitched ; or, sometimes the top is bound on the
single , the same as the bottoms of the breeches. A
Gaiter, as usually made, consists of three parts ;
the outside or lesser half, on which the buttons
stand ; the inside
or top half,
which passes as
much over from
the front centre
best that the pocket should enter from the top, for of the leg as the
the putting in of which see par. 232. If a vest is line of the but
made of plush , the inside portions of the facings tons is on the
must be made to wool up . outside of the
leg ; on to this
289. - BREECHES.-For general directions forma side is cut half
king breeches see par.222.Forservants they aremade of the tongue,
in a variety ofways. Plain breeches for Coachmen or the third part
Grooms areusually made without a garter : the bot consisting of its
tom being faced inside and double stitched raw , or other half. Sim
turned in and stitched behind, or bound with Prus ple as it is, a
sian binding ; in either case the bottom hole is put gaiter is often a
low down, so as to dispense with strings, but when puzzle to even
there are strings to servantsbreeches, whether there an experienced
is a garter or not, an evelet hole is worked in the tailor. To make its construction clear,wetherefore
top side as well as in the under ; and in the centre of give theaccompanyingdiagram ,shewing its separate
the underside there is always a button , to which to parts, each being differently shaded : A A is the back
button the top of the gaiter. Groom 's breeches are seam common to both top and underside; A B
always plain . Dress Coachmen 's and Footmen 's is the width of the outside, its edge B B , is the line
breeches have buckle , and sometimes gold garters ; on which the buttons stand, forward from that line
in the latter case the breeches are cut the fulllength , there must be a button stand left on, of any desired
 -

LIVERIES . 99
width, butwhich we do not shew : from A to C is | 292. - IF THERE IS A STRIPE, just tear itstraight
the inside half,butas there is a tongue the line CC with the wool the width required , as it can be torn
does not continue to the bottom , and instead, is cut more equal than it can be cut ; then , on the top
straight in at the required distance from thebottom side, run a mark parallel with the side seam , two
to the line D , which is the centre of the front of leg, | seamsless from it than the width of the stripe, and
and its continuation over the line of the instep to E | laying the stripe back , seam its inside edge to the
formsthe front edge of the tongue. The half tongue mark , then turn it over, baste flat and seam the out
itself is cut two seams wider at the top than the side edge in with the side seam .
space between thelines C and D , and also two seams
longer than the space it is to occupy on the line D ; 293. - IF THERE IS A NARROW JEATING, baste
in seaming in , F is placed level with C, and so con · it atan equal width on the double, down the side
tinues its line to the bottom , and its front edge, G , seam so that when it is seamed in and pressed , its
is seamed to the line E , therefore when altogether double edgewill be level with the surface of the
and buttoned, A A is the centre of back ofleg ; and seamn . In pressing the sideseam open the seam of
DE of the front. In sewing the back seam , a hole the jeating
is left at the top to button on to the breeches. 294 .- IF THERE IS LAPPED JEATING, baste it
There are usually nine holes in a gaiter; in the first equal at the required width down the side seam ,
place eight are marked regular,and then onebetween and proceed as directed in preceding paragraph,
the two top ones. According to the form ,attention except that the seam is pressed on one side,with the
must be paid to the seaming and pressing of the jeating laying backwards.
back seam , as it requires to be sewn more or less
tight, and pressed more or less away. Although 295 . - IF THERE IS LACE DOWN THE SIDE SEAM,
not now considered correct in Liveries, occasionally follow the directions given in par. 250.
a whole tongue is put in a gaiter, in which case the 296 . - DRAWERS. — General Instructions for
line C C is continued the full length ,and on the line
D there would be a cut up, making Drawers are given in par. 244, which will
as from the bottom to F , apply to those for servants — limited to the rule that
for servants they are always short, have plain waist
in which the tongue should
be seamed . The tongue bands, with two buttons in front, no puff in the slit
would either be cut in two behind , but eyelet holes in the end of the band so
halves of the form shewn | that they tie with a tape, and that thereare always
backward from the line tapes at the bottom , put on so as to tie .
B B , or in one piece, in the 297 . - HOUSE JACKETS. - A working Jacket has
form shewn, which would have to be doubled at the two ontside pockets , in the same position , and put
centre and pressed into the same form as if it was in in the same way as in a waistcoat ; it is single
cut in two pieces. For stable wear, gaiters are some breasted, and has covered buttons, there being no
times cut to come over the foot without tongues, in prescribed style of front or number of holes ; the
which case the line C C would be continued by a
curve in the direction of E , the line C C following bottom is turned up over the linings which are of
cotton ,and are put all through ; the facings are
it, in which case the hole edge would obviously be narrow ,and the linings felled on to them ; both
shorter than the lines on which the buttons would edges are turned in and the one felled on the other.
have to stand, it must therefore be stretched to the When made of a washing material, usually striped
rightdegree, and not only so, but in the right place, Jean, outside and inside are seamed together ; first
or when on, the gaiter would be twisted ; to test
putting in the pockets, then basting in the forepart
its correctness double the edge back to the button liningsand then the sidebody and its lining respect
line, and see that it is stretched so that it then lays ively, face to face, on the forepart and its lining ,
fair. In other respects make up as if there was a and seaming through all from top to bottom ; after
tongue. which turn them over in their proper position, and
291. - TROUSERS. — As regards trousers for ser- repeat the process with the side and shoulder seams;
vants generally, no separate directions are required in joining , seam together the two backs and one
for their making up, but they frequently have a lining, lay the seam on one side and fell the other
a stripe, a narrow jeating, or a lapped jeating at the lining over it. When putting in the sleeves, seam
side seam - all of a different colour to the trousers forepart lining and sleeve together, and then the
hemselves. sleeve lining over the seam . In putting on the col
 000
0 00
000
00
100 HOW TO MAKE

0 0 0
0
lar, seam through forepart and lining and fell the

00
outside over the seam . Tomake the sleeves,which,

00
the sameas the body, are all sewn together, lay the

000
top and underside face to face, as if they were to be
seamed in the ordinary way, then the samewith

00
the linings, after which lay the liningsupon the top
of the outsides, with their under halves next each
other, the whole will then lay thus : top side sleeve
right side upwards, under side sleeve wrong side
upwards,undersidelining rightsideupwards,top side
liningwrong sideupwards. While so laying baste and
sew ,and turn outso thatthe linings are outwards,and
if there is no cuff , notch in the top half of the lining
at the top of the slit sufficient to let it lay under the
outlet,turn in theoutside and fell the lining, turn the
sleeve out, tack and put in the holes. If there is a si
cuff,after sewing ,stillturn so that theliningsare out
wards, and seam on the cuffs through both lining
and sleeve,then turn the sleeve out, turn up the cuff,
stitch it through all round the top, and make up the

0000000
slit, the sameas if there was no cuff . These jackets
haveusually buttonscovered with thesamematerial;
but if not of a washingmaterial, flexibles to match.
298 . - PAGE'S JACKET. — This is a garment inva
00000

riably made close in front, with a stand collar, the

ends of which run with the front, and is either plain ,
or has a notched hole with a button at the end , as
"

per diagram , or a lace hole, with orwithout a button ,

at the end . The front fastenswith buttons, or hooks
and oyes, and when there are hooks and eyes, there
are sometimes studs down the front, as per diagram ,
and sometimes buttons set through on theleft side ;
in either case there is occasionally a back row of
buttons on each forepart, running as shewn on the
diagram ; and sometimes there are shoulder cords,
twisted and placed also as shewn on the diagram . can only bewhen there are hooks and eyes,so far
The Jacket is lined with serge, and more or less
wadded , as desired . There are no outside pockets, as stitching in the linen is concerned , proceed as if
and if there is an inside one it should be in the left toforthe
hooks only , ( see par. 261,) the studsbeing sewn
side, and its mouth should run up and down,and on, - soleftfar side ; then , after pressing , sew the studs
as the shanks are concerned , as if they
not more than an inch and a half from the edge, so
that the hand can be inserted without opening the were hooks, and so that the ball is just free from
whole front. If there are holes and buttons, and iftheedge,
too
straight out, and just touching each other ;
crowded , the edge would appear uneven when
the Jacket should be wadded , follow the directions
given in par. 259, and leave a small stand in the fastened. After the studs are sewn on , face the
forepart ; in any case there is a hook and eye in the linen and sew the hooks on, as directed in par. 261.
front of collar, for the putting on of which see par. 299 - POSTILLION'S JACKET. — In the general
261 ; if there are hooks and eyes, see also the direc- making up , this does not differ from thatfor a Page,
tions given in par. 261. If when there are hooks except that theremay be pockets,with weltsor flaps,
and eyes, there are also buttons down the front, set or an imitation of them , or a belt round the bottom
them through the linen the hooks are sewn on to , loose or attached. If there are either welts or flaps,
after it is fastened down the front, regulating in the they are either plain or pointed ; and whether the
first instance so that hooks and buttons do notboth belt is attachad or loose, its edges must bemade up
come in the same place. If there are studs, which the sameas those of the Jacket : and the front ends
 LIVERIES. IOI

the sameas if they were part of the frontof Jacket. stead of being stitched , the outside lapel is felled
300 . - HUNTSMAN's Coat. - As regards making onis done
the facing, which isafterwards pared : when this
the outside collar is, in the same manner,
a Huntsman's Coat, it does not differ from the direc
tions given in par. 157. felled on the collar lining. When there are capes,
real or false, the directions given under the head of
301. - GAMEKEEPER'S COAT. - See directions for box coats, par. 303, will apply to Great Coats gene
Shooting Coats, par. 160 . rally.
302. - GREAT COATS. — Ordinary Great Coats 303 . - Box COAT. - A Box Coatis single breasted
require to be strongly and cut in the form of a loose long Sac ; it is either
plainly made, and the only lined with serge,or not lined but faced down each
distinction between those front ; it does not turn , has a panteen collar, with a
for Coachmen and Foot large tab , a series of capes, an insidewaistbelt, and
men is, that for the former inside and outside tabs to button the garment over
there is usually flaps across the knees. The coat is made up quite plain with
the waist with pockets nine holes down the front, the bottom one a little
under , the Footman 's being lower down than the knee ; on the right side the
in the pleat. The flap for buttons are set back from two to three inches, and
a Coachman's coat is cut the step at the top must only be of such a length
in the form shewn by the as will allow the collar ends to meet. The collar
annexed diagram , follow with its tab is cut in the form shewn by the dia.
ing in all its parts the lines on next page ; the stand extends to the front, and ,
of the skirt itself. The la to secure a sufficiency of length to goover the capes,
pels must beplain in form , the fall is cut separate and longer,and with the same
as shewn by diagram , object it isalso slightly hollowed on the crease edge ;
nearly of equal breadth the two parts are firmly stoated together, the extra
throughout, and with very length of fall being kept equally on all the way
little point at top, so that along. The tab is large, with two holes, and deep
it will lay flat under the in the centre, so as to cover the junction of the fore
turn of the collar. These parts and collar ends ; it isalso made to take off and
coats are always made to on . The same diagram shews the top band of the
button close, therefore all capes ; when they, or any of them take off, which
the holes are worked on
the outside , the top one must be cut to fit the collar, there is no sewing in
not more than an inch the edge and it is lined with linen . Following a
most objectionable practice under such circum
down, so as to keep the stances, we have sometimes seen the end hole slant
coat close atthe neck . So ed or cut straight in , with the result, in the course
that it should button up of wear, that it falls off the button, which it must
quite smooth, the left gorge do if the pull is not in the same direction as thehole
should be lowered a seam , itself, which should therefore be cut straight down
keeping both lapels of as represented . There is no set number of capes to a
equal length down the Box Coat, part of them are occasionally sewn in with
front. The edges ofthese the collar, and the remaindermade to take off and
coats are usually made up
plain, and sometimes, in on ; they are sometimes also alternately false, each
false one being felled under as a real
one, in such a manner that when on
the bottom edges of the whole will be
equal distances apart : at the top of
thefront, each cape recedesabout half
an inch from the other, and is run off
so that all their bottom points are on
a straight line from the outside corner
of the lower cape, to the outside corner
of the top one. There are no fixed
 102 HOW TO MAKE

knee. There are corresponding

tabs on the left side, with holes
in them , placed inside,their front
ends being just inside the edge
of the coat. The position of the
tabs must be so arranged that
they are clear of the holes in the
coat. The waist belt is, properly
speaking, two broad tabs, about
four inches wide, one on the right
the other on the left side, inside
the coat ; they are placed about
three inches below the bottom
number, or form of tab , the outside ones are on of the scye ; the one on the left side is short,
the right side, on which there are crest but with two holes in the front, and extends to about
tons, and are placed in such a position that their the centre of the forepart ; the right one is as much
front ends will touch a line drawn from the top but- ' longer as the left is short, with a double set of
ton to the bottom of the sideseam ; the top tab is į buttons in front the one set about two inches
placed a little above the level of buttons of scye, behind the other, so that according to which is
and the bottom one a little below the level of the used , the coat will be drawn tight or easy .

HOW TO MAKE MILITARY UNIFORMS.

304 . — With the view of making this division 306 .- Full as the information is that we give
of our work as useful as possible within itself, we upon Uniforms, it must be understood that we deal
shall to some extent so as to save frequent refe- no further with the Dress Regulations for the Army
rence, repeat instructions that may have been given than to make their general principles understood
for other garments , when applicable to Uniforms and capable of application to the clothing of Volun
In making them — as with Liveries, exactitude is a ! teer Regiments, now a most important branch with
prime requirement ; an exact form and size being tailors generally. Ourobject is not so much to de
given for every part,which must notonly be adhered tail how the dress of any particular regiment is
to, but in forming two ornaments alike on the same i made ornamented - or to use the technical term
garment they must bemade pairs. In the case of " garnished ," as to teach how any military clothing
Austrian Knots, cach opposite one, in the run of may be made, using that of the Army asillustrative.
the cord at its different overlayings, must be the One reason why we follow this course, is the con
reverse of the other ; this is shewn in diagrams 4 , stant liability to change, which , if weattempted to
Plate 4, and 1, Plate 6, which in their outline are make our work authoritative on points of detail,
represented as pairs. might shortly deprive it of all value ; but, under
the course we pursue, no matter what changes may
305 . — Another general principle to benoted is , made,
that wherever ornamentation takes a circular form , alwayshow found
to adapt the making-up to them will be
be in our pages.
a perfect circle must be avoided , slight elongation
giving a freer appearance ; the best example of 307. - Butalthough such is our general inten
this is diagram 4 , Plate 3 — the bottom of the side tion, the instructions we give are applicable to the
seams of the Cavalry Stable Jacket, although, as ! present dress in the Queen 's service, and so that all
far as it can be done, this principle is foilowed į the varities of ornamentation may be exactly re
throughout in all the diagrams given in the work . i produced to their exact size and proportions, they
 MILITARY UNIFORMS. 103
are all drawn to the scale given on Plate 5, on 313. - In sewing, whether seaming or other
which the figures correspond to the inch and its wise, wax must not be used with scarlet, white ,
divisions. or light coloured silks, and must be sparingly
308. - It must also be understood that all the and carefully used with thread in sewing on lace.
In some cases white wax may be used, but the real
information we give refers to Officers' uniforms,
and therefore when applied to lower ranks, a great evil of wax does not lay so much in its colour as its
re degree of plainess prevails , but which in the case liability to take up dirt, which shews itself in the
of Volunteers is a matter of regimental regulation. sewing. Thread , silk , or twist, may to a great ex
tentbe prevented from “ kinking ” by drawing it
309. - So far as the making is concerned ,
there is one general rule tu follow as regards the slowly and firmly between a piece of damp cloth .
distinction between the Regular and Auxiliary 314 - No matter what may be the description
forces, which is, that all lace and trimming in the of coat or jacket, the back is always cut whole ;
former, except Badges, are gold or yellow , and in but, sometimes, according to the practice of the cut
the latter, silver or white. ter, in loose garments, such as the Patrol Jacket,
the widths of the back do not correspond with the
310 . - Badges are used to denote rank , and line of ornamentation : in such cases the prescribed
consist of small crowns and stars placed on the
front of the collar, over, and irrespective of any of line must be followed , irrespective of the position
lace or other ornamentation that may be on it. follows the seams. As backs are always whole , it
that if there is an opening in the centre of
Those for the Regulars are silver, for the Auxiliaries, the back skirt, as in an ordinary coat, it must be
gold . The Badges by their combinations denote stumped ; but when this is so the seam is covered
many ranks, but in all cases three grades : the Star by some ornament or belt.
being the lowest, the Crown the next, and the
Crown and Star together the highest. Therefore 315 . - If there is a lapel to a military coat, its
with Subalterns the Star denotes the lowest rank, sewing on must be regulated according to its width ,
the Crown a Lieutenant, and the Crown and Star a but whatever its width the sewing on edgeis always
straight, and the straight way ofthe material; these
Captain ; with Field Officers, who are distinguished
from Subalterns by extra lacing, the Star denotes a conditions
form and
being necessary to secure the proper
its retention, as the drawing in of the
Major, the Crown a Lieutenant Colonel, and the
Crown and Star a Colonel ; and the samerule holds breast is effected by putting the lapel on short. If
good with Generals . So far these regulations apply a lapel is narrow ,as in the case of a Lord Lieute
to full dress ; on the undress, Subalterns wear no nant's Coatee, without any reference to its tightness
Badges . on the sewing on edge, let its outside edge lay fair
on the forepart, which is the position it will occupy
311. - It may be here stated, that it is part of when the garment is made up. But if a lapel is
the business of Lacemen to supply all the “ garni more than about two inches wide, let it lay fair on
ture ” required for any regiment of Regulars or
Militia, which includes Lace, Buttons, Swords, the forepart at thatdistance back, in which case its
outside edge will require to be drawn in so as to lay
Sashes, Belts, Shakos, Busbies, & c., & c., and gene fair on the fore part when buttoned ; to secure this
rally they also answer questions as to regulations ; however, it will not be sufficient that the edge is
but in any difficulty upon that point, the sealed drawn in to the right length , as it must be so at the
pattern of any article of Uniform may be inspec right place, or when buttoned it will appear twis
ted , on personal application only, in the pattern ted ; where , and the degree of drawing in , can be
room at the War Office, Pall Mall, London , observed when the lapel is laid back for sewing.
312. - As our instructions are intended for the 316 . - In single breasted uniformsthe front of
qualifying of those who consult them to make any
description of Military garment,whatever may be its breast must be made up straight, the amount of
pattern ,wewill first give directions for each separate shrinking will therefore depend upon its roundness.
part of the clothing of the British Army, the uni The best mode of effecting the shrinking, is to take
forms of Lord Lieutenants,and one or two other baste a straight strip of linen about two inches wide,and
particulars thatmight be useful. Then , to shew it down the breast on its backmost edge only ,
the relation of parts,we will give a generaldescrip so tight that breastand linen will be level at the
tion of the uniform worn by each branch of the front edge ; then take an iron just off the burn, and
service. shrink, first back from the linen, then forward over
 104 HOW TO MAKE
it, taking care that thematerial does not take any 321. - When there is ornamentation on the
crease under the operation . If a breast is cut extra breast of a Military garment, as Drops, Lacing , or
round, the shrinking may be done on a press cloth , | Braiding, canvas is put through . And instead of
which in the case of scarlet or light materials must the breast being shrunk in , puffs are taken out,
be perfectly clean. under the Lace or Braid . These puffs must be
317. - So that there should be free play for arm , regulated in their number, length , width and posi
chest, and shoulder, when there is no ornamentation , tion, by the round cut on the breast and the nature
on the breast, there is no canvas put through , but of the ornamentation, so as to produce the sameresult
only such width of linen as will take the holes and as if the breast was shrunk . These puffs may be
buttons, thickly serged , and as a matter of course,correspon
the coat or hooks and
is single eyes,, the
breasted as the caseofmay
mode be. Ifit ding
putting ones must be cut in the canvas, butnot exactly
in requires no further explanation ; but if there is in the same place ; instead of cutting these outthey
a lapel, the linen or canvas should go no further may be overlaid .
than about an inch behind the buttons, and should 322 . — The edges of Military garments are
be put in separately through forepart and lapel ; the either plain or edged with Cord, Braid, Cloth , or
edges down seam being turned back , and serged to - Velvet. If edged narrow with either Velvet or Cloth ,
gether on the double. If this is not done, in con follow the directions given in par. 273, making ,
sequence of the lapelbeing put on tight, the linen no difference even if the edging is Velvet, as the
would be too short in the forepart, which would not portion seen is too little to have its appearance
only give it a blistered appearance, but partially effected by the pyle being flattened in pressing.
deprive the breast of the fullness,which the round
cut on , was intended to effect. Through all the 323. - If the edging is broad, as on the present
operations of dealing with labels. they must be | Infantry Tunic, seam it on with a small seam and
treated simply asan addition to the foreparts, and press open, then , after putting on the stay tape,
must lay smoothly under and over them . turn in the edging over the seam .
318 . — Therefore lapel facings must not exceed 324 . - If the edges are corded , whether with
in width the lapel itself, or– exactly the same as a Mohair, Gold, or Silver cord, after the canvas is in ,
whole canvas - it would be a tie upon the forepart, baste linen or firm cotton at the back of all the
edges and prick the cord on , through its centre , an
and to an extent would give rise to the same fault. inturn from the edge, and then turn the edge in ,
319. - As the lapel seam is treated as the true flash basting it down where it can be done. If
front of the coat, the wadding put through the some firm material is not put at the back of the
breast, must not be carried any further forward ; edge, it would be difficult from its stiffness, to put
and its amount will depend upon the roundness cut the cord on even, and if such is not done, the edge
on the breast, very seldom exceeding , according to ' would appear loose when finished .
present style , more than one moderate ply in either 325 . - When there is Gimp, flat Cord, or Braid
Coatee, Tunic, or Jacket. If the garment is single
breasted , with either hooks and eyes, or holes,' the laid on an edge,a firm material,as recommended in
wadding is brought to the front edge ; when there | the
but
preceding paragraph should be put under it ;
the edge should be turned in previous to the
are holes, the spaces between them are wadded as edging being sewn on, and Cord or Gimp should be
directed in par. 259.
pricked on.
320. - The linings of Military garments are 326 . - When there is lace on an edge, after
either of Silk , Italian Cloth or Alpaca, and if wad shrinking, baste in the stays to take the hooks and
ded are quilted in themanner described in par. 17 , eyes, turn in the edges, and baste down the inside
that is by creasing the material, at about three of the left side a strip of the same material as the
eighths of an inch apart , lengthwise, and across. linings, leaving its outside edge free ; then sew on
As being easier, and giving a better appearance,the the hooks and eyes through all,after which baste a
perpendicular creasing should be carried to the bot bearer on the right side. Now baste on all the
tom of the lining, the cross ones only the length edges to be laced a strip of some soft material, just
that the wadding comes , which should be straight so wide as to come under the lace , and then prick
across, at about two thirds of the depth of the side the lace on, keeping back the strip of facing down
body,and be slightly thinned off at the bottom . the left side, which afterwards fell over the pricking
 MILITARY UNIFORMS. 105
on the inside. If there are studs on a laced gar- stitched on the facings and carried in a line through
ment they should be sewn on the outside, through the pocket mouth .
all, and before the hooks are sewn on , as they are 330. - When there are leathers across the waist,
then firmer and lay flatter on the right side than if they should be evenly cutand aboutan inch and a
they were sewn on the inside, and basting a strip half in width, and should be felled over the linings
of material under the lace prevents the shanks of slightly easy on - if on a Jacket, on a line with the
the studs from wearing it, and also from their marks
being seen. If the top edge of the collar is also natural waist, so as to leave the bottom to set free
laced, it should be put on before lacing, so that the over the hip. In a tunic the bottom edge of the
lace can be carried all round at once. In these leather should not be lower down than the waist
directions we have not followed out every process seam and be felled over the skirt facings; the same
in themaking up of the garment, as for example, rule also applies to a Coatee. Sometimes in a Tunic
the linings may be basted in before the lace issewn or Coatee there is a back piece of the same mate
on ,and so might the sleeves be put in , but if the rialas the garment, in which case it is put over the
collar has to be put on before lacing , the linings linings and the ends of the waist leathers felled
should be basted in before the shoulder seams are on it. In single breasted garments the leathers
sewn. are brought to the front, and any holes that they
cover must be cut out and felled round ; when
327. - When the back skirt of a Tunic is closed, double breasted the leathers are brought to the lapel
which is the case now with Infantry, Artillery, and seam only.
Engineers, there are no pockets in the pleat, but 331. - When there is leather across the waist'
only an inside breast pocket, and a ticket pocket in there are frequently clasps which are of the form
the waist seam . All breast pockets in Military gar shewn by the annexed diagram . In putting them
OOOO

ments are put up and down , if there are holes and on, first sew each through the per
buttons down the edge of the lining, thehole facing forated holes, with double thread,
is not more than an inch and a half wide. If there on to pieces of double linen ,larger
are hooks and eyes, in which case the linings come than the clasps themselves, but, in
to the front, the pocket is jeated in . When there are oo| the case of the right one, keeping
pleat pockets they are put in in two different ways ; it no further forward than the in
first,after lining the back skirt, the same as in an side edge of theopening in the front, and in that of
ordinary Frock ; or, if the skirt and back skirt li the left,allowing it to behalfan inch forward . Then,
ning is in one piece, they are jeated in , and some on the top of the linings, and before putting on the
times laid half each way. When there is a watch leathers, flash baste them in their proper positions,
pocket in a Military coat, it should be jeated in , if with their bottom edges no lower than thewaist seam .
there is no ornamentation on the breast, but if there If the garment is single breasted, thebutton catch at
is any cording or lacing across, the pocket mouth the bottom , must bewide enough for its edge, when
should be at the top of an edge, or between two buttoned , to extend beyond the back end of the
edges, so as not to be seen . hole , and the clasp must be so put on that the open
328. — There is always a button stand to all part is beyond the edge ; then , for its whole depth,
single breasted Coatees, which is best seamed on ,as at the back of the buttons, from the outside, prick
it gives a better command of the edge . In seaming through all ; in putting on the leather, fell the front,
through the opening on the edge of the catch, and
it on it should be treated the same as a lapel, it then
should be stitched behind, through the button stay, at top and bottom of the clasp, prick in front
and the edge made up as that of the left side. If about a quarter of an inch through all. On the
the button stand is cut on , the frontmust be shrunk left side of the front edge, the clasp mustbe further
the same as the left side, and stitched down through back than the back end of the hole, and so that
the button stay in the same line as if there was a when hooked the garment lays fair ; as with the
right side, the stay must be pricked through all
seam . from the outside, in front flash baste the linen
329. - In all Tunicsand Jackets in which there which the clasp is sewn on, allowing it to be about
are holes and buttons, so as to give uniformity of half an inch further forward ; then baste on the
appearance, a cloth facing should be put down the leather, allowing it to cover the linen in the front,
right side, corresponding in width to that on the and cut it as shewn by the broken lines on theback
left, and the linings should be stitched or back of the clasp, then let the hook come through the
 106 HOW TO MAKE
leather, and tuck the round tongue of leather under pond with the first sewn side. Having sewn round
the clasp,and from the outside, prick through all for to the starting point, seam the two ends of the lace
abouthalf an inch in the middle of the clasp. If together and prick the inside edge down ; previous
the garment is double breasted the frontedge of the to this however put some wadding under the lace
clasp on the right side is brought through the lapel | up the point, to give a fullappearance for whichwe
seam , to the outside, which is afterwards pricked ! directed that themiddle seam should start a quar
together through the opening , and on the left side ter of an inch from the edge at the top, and not
the front edge of the clasp is placed on the inside, from the point, therefore, before putting in the
at the lapel seam ; on both sides the stay is stitched wadding,with a bodkin force the lace to stand up,
through all at the back of the buttons. Asa matter then stuff the point till it is moderately firm .
of course, in any case in front, the leathers must be Another way of treating the point is, after sewing
wide enough to cover the clasps. round the outside edge, to cut down the centre,
332. — When there is a cuff to a Military gar through cuff and sleeve, to the point where the
ment there must notbe a seam on the forearm , and inside edges of the lace meet, to pull the surplus
if its ornamentation runs all round, the seam should lace through the cut to the inside, then through the
lace, serge the edges ofthe cut firmly together. By
be in the centre of the underside,and if it extends this means the point is divided into halves, down
below the length the sleeve is cut, a drop should be the centre, and each is separately wadded . When
serged too independent of the cuff ; the cuff should a cuff is not edged , or when there is no cuff at all,
then be basted in its proper position , the lacing except in omitting the cuff or edging, as the case
sewn on and the drop of the cuff turned up over it. may be, the mode of procedure is the same as
To do this, only so much of the sleeve should be
seamed at the bottom as will admit of the cuff being above directed, except that when there is no cuff, a
piece of cotton or other thin material should be
put to. basted on the inside of the sleeve.
333. - If a cuff is plain laced its point must be
very decided in form , taking as the model Diagram 334. — The sleeve of a close fitting military
1, Plate 1, and not the form of Diagram 2, which is garment, should be cut so that the hind arm seam
less hollow . An exact pattern of a cuff should be comes to the sideseam . And in making up, the
cut and its outline marked on the sleeve. If there hind arm should not be hooked in any more than
is a cloth edging, baste it in its proper place, with will allow for the spring cut on to meet the side
its double edge to the mark on the sleeve, then baste seam , and any excess of size in the under side,
on the cuff,basting its edge down on the edging so should be taken out as puffs in the manner directed
that it will be just inside the lace. Now prick on in par. 30.
the lace, beginning at the centre of the underside, 335 . - If a lapel turns back and has a facing
aud shewing such width of edging as may be de
sired. Having sewn to where the point commences of a different colour than the outside, the whole of
to rise, take another needle with double thread, the holes to match the outside are worked before
leaving the other one still attached to the work , the facing is put on. To do this, first cut out the
and passing it up from the underside through all, holes, and if desirable pare away the linen or can
vas, then flash baste double strips of linen round
take a running stitch the required distance along
the edge of the lace, letting it be longest on the the hole , with the double edge towards the edge of
underside, and then draw it in so that it lays fair on the hole ; work the holes, bite up and press. Then
baste on the lapel facing, keeping it easy on , par
both edges ; pass the needle down, fasten it off on
the wrong side, and resume sewing on the edge ticularly at the holes,and work narrow , with twist
match the facing , as many holes as are to turn ,
with the original needle until the top of the point is tocatchin
reached . Now double back the lace so that the hold
g only of the back side of the first
worked ones. Below the turn the facing is felled
inside edges lay fair, and starting a quarter of an
inch from the outside edge already sewn, seam round the holes.
straight down to where the two laces meet on their 336 . - If the material is scarlet the holes should
inside edges, then laying the surplus lace equally be worked with Mohair, except on the turn , for
each side of the seam , knock the seam open on the directions in the case of which , see par. 155.
wrong side, turn the loose edge of the lace over,
and continue the sewing of the outside edge down 337. - For the putting on of hooks and eyes
from the point, drawing it in the hollow to corres- | on a plain front, see par. 261.
 MILITARY UNIFORMS. 107
338 . — To put on studs when the front is plain , 344 . — When there are Epaulettes, Shells,
see par. 298. Knots, or Cords, they are never put on till the gar
339 . - For instructions for piping seams, see ment
tions
is otherwise entirely finished. 'For instruc
par. 279. In a Military garmentwhen the sideseam 277. to position and mode of putting on see par.
as
and hind arm of sleeves are piped , the piping must
run through from the one to the other, in onepiece. 345 . — When Epaulettes are worn, there are
To effect this so that the work can progress, the sometimes eyelet holes worked as directed in par.
sideseam may be entirely closed, and the body 277, or, what is now more usual, they are held in
finished , leaving a length of piping beyond thetop ; their place by metal fasteners of the form shewn
and the sleeve may bemade, except seaming a por in the annexed diagram ; A
tion of the hind arm , which , so as to permit of its being the top one, and B the
being seamed in , should be basted. In putting in one nearest the scye. To fix
the sleeve, seam from and to the sideseam , leaving the Epaulette, there is a metal
the loose piping free, which afterwards seam into Cool ..) B tongue on its under side which
the unseamed portion of the hind arm . is passed through C, the risen
portion of the bottom fastener, and buttons on to
340.- In sewing on the buttons, put the first the stud X , on the top one. To ascertain the posi
row of stitches close to the shank , and each suc tion of the fasteners, attach them to the Epaulette
ceeding row on the outside of the preceding one, and chalk their under edges, then carefully lay the
as, to put one stitch through another cuts and Epaulette in its proper position on the shoulder and
weakens both . If thematerial is scarlet, to prevent press down so that themark round the edge of the
the shank from marking the garment itself, in case fasteners will be transferred to the garment. Now
of an alteration a small portion of the material take the fasteners and through the perforated holes
should be put under the shank when sewing the sew them with double thread on to pieces of linen ,
buttons on , and afterwards pared away close to it. which leave about half an inch over all round . Then
All buttons that are not for use should be set chalk the top of the stud and risen portion of the
through, and the shanksknocked down on the wrong fasteners, and turning them upside down impress
side. their mark in the centre of the previous ones, and
341. - When there are lace holes in a Military for the top one cut a hole through the cloth only,
garment, the outer edges follow the form of the thatwill no more than admit the stud ; in the bot
edge of that portion of the garment on which they tom one cut a slit that will let the risen part of the
are placed,which is usually a flap or a slash ; but fastener come through , then pass the top fastener
as they are not now worn in the Army, except through the bottom cut to its proper place, let the
by the Guards, there is no occasion further to parti- stud come through, and prick through all round the
cularise them . outer edge of the fastener ; after doing this with
342. - To make a plain collar for a Military the top one, pass the bottom one endways through
garment, see par. 126 ; if embroidered, see par. 250. the slit, work it round into its proper position, thickly
If a collar is edged and laced, after so far following serge the cut under the risen part and then prick
the directions in par. 126 , cut stiffening and outside round through all, the same as the top one.
level at ends and top, and baste the edging over the 346. — The Badge of distinction for Non-Com
same as if it was a binding ; after which prick on missioned
the lace shewing the same width of edging as on teers is theOfficersChevron
in both the Regulars and Volun
the rest of the garment. In sewing on the lace , sists of any number ,ofwhich, bars
according to rank , con
of lace worn on the
allow the collar to lay slightly round over the hand, arm . The annexed diagram shews
so that it will assume the same form as if it was by a Sergeant,and represents the the Chevron worn
form and relative
round the neck of the wearer. In sewing the in position of the bars ; from which it will be seen
side edge, supposing the collar end to be round, that the top bar is slightly longer than the bottom
which is now the rule, the lace will require to be one and that they also slightly curve in their dip
drawn in , as directed for lacing a cuff in par. 333. towards the centre. Chevrons are mostly edged all
343. – Badgesmust be put on before the collar round with the same cloth as the facings,which
is lined, and in their proper position, overany orna properly should shew a double edge,butsometimes,
mentation thatmay be on it. particularly in undress garments, the lace is pricked
 108 HOW TO MAKE

on to a piece of plain cloth and then its edges pared. distance from D , allowing that the “ back tommy”
Sometimes the ends of the bars are plain, as shewn is formed by the one turnover laying on the top of
on one side of the diagram ,and sometimes cushions the other, as will bring it to run with the sideseam .
Next, baste the skirt on the interlining and seam
I TO
M T T on the turnovers , which must be the straight way
mm
E
m R
M u
Y m y of the wool, to the marked threads ; it will be seen
mm
mfu
Sa T M m i m
i
by the diagram that the points of the turnovers
mmi
mmi T miniAimn
t mi mu
m
must meet at their bottom points, and that their
umT In i ni bottomsare at right angles with their sides ; the
M an mi
N
im u
timu hu
m supposition being , as their name implies, that the
mi m
n
m
ni om
LITT turnovers are part of the skirt turned back to shew
s
A m
i ng i
nt inun
n n the lining, and are fastened in that position by an
TI
MI i n m m
ornament indicated on the diagram . Now “ bite
m
aS
i
up " the seams of the turnovers, baste them down,
tind
Cain turn in and fell their bottoms and then turn in
their outside edges over those of the skirt. The
skirts are lined through with Cassimere of the same
are formed, as shewn by the other side, but as a colour as the turnover, and inside pleat pockets are
matter of course both endsmust be alike, and follow jeated in them ,and are laid partly towards the back.
the rule of theRegiment. But if, as is sometimes After pressing and putting on the ornament, line
the case, each separate bar is composed of a double the skirts, then tack their two back bottom edges
row of lace, cushions taking in both rows of each together, edge and edge, and at the top, the left
bar must be formed , as in the end of a lace hole . turnover on the top of the right one. The skirt,
If there are only two bars, the top ones on the dia which is always made separate, is now ready for
gram may be taken as an example of their forma seaming to the body, to which it must be seamed
tion , but if there are more than three, the relative quite plain, the samerule mustalso be observed in
difference between the top and bottom ones must making it. It will be observed that in the diagram
not be greater than that between the top and bot the skirt is represented with a flap, which is there
tom ones on the diagram . shewn because it is part of the Uniform for Lord
347. - As the last of separate particulars we Lieutenants, who are the only Officers who now
will now describe the making of a Coatee skirt, the wear the Coatee.
form of which is shewn by the annexed diagram . 348 . – So that the practical application of our
In the first place it must
А р . be cut of the intended directions may be fully understood, we will now
form , and so that when give a short summary of the Uniforms of the British
the garment is on, the bot Army; in the course of which we will refer to the
tom points meet behind, modes of ornamentation represented on our Plates
and no more. In making, ofdiagrams.
the first thing to do is to
cut a piece of stoutcotton , ANTS349. — LORD LIEUTENANT AND DEPUTY LIEUTEN
OF COUNTIES, — wear a scarlet Coatee with a
for an interlining, the lapel one and a half inch wide at top, and one and
sameas the skirt, then put a quarter atbottom , having ten holes in pairs, the
marking stitches in the holes in each pair being an inch and a quarter
skirt, one seam less from apart ; cuffs and collar blue, embroidered , white
the edge than the intended turnovers, and epaulettes, flaps on the skirts, as
width of the turnovers, represented on the diagram in par. 347. Trousers
CC on the diagram , then blue with a broad lace down the side. The em
at aboutwhere B is placed broidery must be done by a Laceman , who could
cut in from outside edge furnish lace, buttons, hat, sword and all accessories.
to B ; this forms the pleat, and after turning
it in put to a back skirt that will make the 350 . - INFANTRY SHELL JACKET ;— Scarlet, studs
skirt up to its original form , and sew down the and hooks and eyes, stand collar round at ends,
pleat nearly close to its edge. As regards the cuffs and collar Regimental facings, lined with
position of the pleat at A , it must be such a Italian cloth,and quilted , round double cord plain
 MILITARY UNIFORMS. 109
shoulder cords, that is, the double cord is sewn back skirt close, collar round in front, quilted
together. linings, sword hook left side, ticket pocket right,
If for a Sub -Lieutenant,all round Jacketand top of ! inside breast pocket, flat double square shoulder
collar and cuffs, are broad edged with white. Dia cord . Cuffs and collar of regimental facings.
gram 1, Plate 1, shows form , position and dimen If for Sub-Lieutenant, plain pointed cuffs, as on
sions of cuff Sword hook at left side of waist. Shell Jacket.
If for Lieutenants or Captains, the edges are If for Lieutenant, lace on top of collar, tracing
turned in , and tracing braid laid on, and tracing along bottom ; cuffs as Diagram 1, Plate 4 , the out
braid all round the collar. Diagram 2 , Plate 2, side edge of the lace being the edge of cuffs, and
shews the cuffs and trimmings for a Lieutenant, the outside tracing and knot on the sleeve.
and Diagram 3, Plate 2, that for a Captain , the If for a Captain , collar same as Lieutenants ;
inside row of tracing being on the cuff, the outside | cuffs, as per Diagram 2, Plate 4, outside tracing and
one on the sleeve. knot being on the sleeve.
If for Major, Lieutenant-Colonel or Colonel, the ! If for a Major, collar as Diagram 5 , Plate 4 , cuffs
collar bas eyes formed of tracing , inside the tracing as Diagram 3, Plate 4, the outside eyes and knot
at top as per Diagram 6, Plate 2. Diagram 4, Plate being on the sleeve.
2, shews the cuffs for Major, and Diagram 5, that If for a Colonel, or Lieutenant Colonel, collar
for Lieutenant- Colonel and Colonel, the inside row
of tracing being on the cuffs, and the outside on sameas Major ; cuffs as Diagram 4, Plate 4 , the
the sleeve. These Officers wear the Badge corres outside eyes and knot being on the sleeve.
ponding to their rank , on the collar. All ranks wear Badges.
351. - INFANTRY SCARLET PATROL JACKET, is 354. - INFANTRYGREAT COAT. — The Regulation
single breasted , broad edged with white on all the great coat is a long wide double breasted Sac, made
edges, except the collar, jeated cross pockets, with from grey Beaver, and lined with Alpaca to match,
flaps to go out and in, inside breast pocket cross, deep cuff to sleeve,a panteen collar, and six large
slit at the side five inches long, forepart only lined Regimental buttons down each breast ; it has a single
scarlet Italian cloth , and so as to get edging pro breasted, three quarter circle Cape 25 inches long,
perly on , slit and bottom of back faced half inch bottom corners rounded off, faced down front, lined
wide inside, shoulder seam under the strap , five with Alpaca, a stand at top with five holes to button
large Regimental buttons in front ; shoulder strap on the collar of coat, four small Regimentalbuttons
plain of the form shewn on Diagram 5 , Plate 3 ,made down front, a leather strap ,and buckle at the neck the
up with interlining through, a hole at top, and not position of which , and form of top of front,is shewn
sewn in with sleeve ; collar of Regimental facings ; byannexed diagram . Diagram 3, Plate 1, shews the
three upper ranks wear Badges. form and position of poc
352. - INFANTRY BLUE PATROL JACKET, bottom ket, and of the sword hole
in the coat, which is in
corners rounded ; slit inside, stand collar,hooks and the left side, jeated and
eyes, flat braided all round, with inch Mohair, four left open, to admit of the
drops as per Diagram 6, Plate 3, the top one eight hilt coming through, the
inches long, the bottom one six, to edge of breast, position and form of the
on the left side a loop beyond, Olivets on right side, slash in thesideseam , and
sideseam corded as per Diagram 7 , Plate 3, the the form and size of the
middle of crow 's toe, at bottom to be three inches cross tab behind ; the
from centre of back, and the middle of the cord at slashes are nine inches long, and the slit is left
the lowest of the middle eyes , two inches, the top open for the convenience of getting at under
crow's toe at top of sideseam ; a plain Austrian pockets without unbuttoning ; the tab buttons
knot on the sleeve, seven inches high , two and across from the one slash to theother,and when not
three quarters wide. Lined through black Alpaca . in use, can be buttoned on one of them , on the top
Pockets same as Scarlet Patrol. Three upper ranks and bottom buttons ; tab and slashes are edged with
wear Badges. scarlet. The collar has a double stand , the top
353 .- INFANTRY Tunic, single breasted, eight one loose, of single cloth so as to cover the cape
holes regular up front, hip buttons, broad white buttons, which are set on the under one, the cape
edging down front, top of collar, and down pleats, buttons are plain black four holes ; there is a hook
-
 IIO HOW TO MAKE

and eye at the bottom corner of the collar, and If for a Lieutenant, there is one row of lace along
another near the bottom of the fall. The front is top and down topside of cuff, and three imitation
made to button close up withoutany turn , and the holes formed with gold tracing,a Regimental button
edges are stoated and stitched . It will be under at the top of each .
stood from the arrangements of coat and cape that If for a Captain , one row of lace and one row of
they are intended to be worn together or each one
separate . tracing inside, with imitation holes, and buttons
sameas Lieutenant.
355 . - INFANTRY MESS WAISTCOAT, is single If for a Major, two rows of lace at top and one
breasted , no collar, blue, or colour of Regimental down top side, with imitation holes and buttons,
facing , except when yellow , in which case it may as per diagram 1,Plate 6, which represents a Major's
be scarlet, but in any case must be the same colour cuff, those for other officers being varied according
throughout the Regiment ; opening of the vest to our instructions.
about eight inches from the bottom ; hooks and If for Lieut.-Colonel, sameas Major, with row of
eyes and studs; edges turned in and gold tracing tracing inside, and imitation holes and buttons.
braid laid on all around. Diagram 2, Plate 1,
shews right front of vest, the trimming ofedgeand extraIf for Colonel, same as Lieut.-Colonel, with an
manner in which the pocket is put in. row of tracing inside, and imitation holes and
buttons. Whether there are one or two rows of
356 . - INFANTRY : HIGHLAND REGIMENTS.— The lace the buttons must only touch the lower edge of
the bottom row , and the tracing holes must there
collars of Highland Regiments are the same as fore bemade of a corresponding length .
those already described for Infantry Regiments ; General instructions for the making of Kilts are
the body of the Tunic is also the same, but there
are Tashes at the bottom of the form shewn on given in par. 247, but there is some speciality with
Diagram 2 , Plate 6 ,which are also edged the same the Kilt of each Regiment not subject to the Offi
as the fronts ; the back skirt tashes are single, and cial Regulations, therefore information upon this
occupy the position shewn, overla ping so as to portion of the dressmust be sought for in the corps
admit of sufficient width at bottom to spring over it is for. One thing may be mentioned here, that
as it is contrary to regulations to cut the pleats out
the Kilt. Forward from the sideseam , and laying
over the back ones, as shewn on the diagram , there at the back , it should not be done without per
are two double tashes on each side, the backmost mission.
one being shewn on the diagram ; the front ones 357. - INFANTRY : RIFLE REGIMENTS. — Tunic
must be half an inch wider and deeper than the single breasted, bottom corners of skirts rounded,
back ones ; therefore whatever may be the width hooks and eyes, closed back skirt , one rose pleat,
of waist - allowing the front edge of the under tash and pleat fixed at bottom , six drop cords and drops
to be one inch when buttoned , from centre of coat, on breast, with Caps at inside end, and Olivets right
divide it from sideseam to front of tashes into two side, as shewn by diagram 5, Plate 3, the length of
portions, the front one half an inch more than the the top cord , on the right side from the outside edge
back one, as the edges of the under tashes meet of the cap , about seven inches ; of the bottom one
only at the side and not overlap as is the case be three and a half. As regards the length of the top
hind- and cut the tashes accordingly , adhering to cord it will not matter if a portion of the loop should
the regulation depth . All the tashes are bound the come on the sleeve, which if the breast was narrow
sameas the edges of the coat, and lined with white would be better than shortening the length and so
Cassimere. The back tashes and the under front diminishing the apparent breadth . The position of
ones are only plain bound and lined , but in the the bottom drop must be so regulated that it comes
two front under tashes there are pockets back very little on the skirt, therefore the cross cord and
stitched in . On each of the two front top tashes Olivet will be above the waist seam . The run of
there are three imitation holes formed with gold the cords should be a little higher behind than in
tracing, of the relative length and position shewn front, those on diagram 1, Plate 7, shews their cor
on Diagram 2, Plate 6. Diagram 1, Plate 6, shews rect position. Collar rounded in front ; except the
the form and style of making up the cuff,which are collar, it is edged all round with square cord ; one
of the gauntlet form , and at the hind arın about row of cord down side seam with crow 's toe at top,
two inches of the cuff is lined with silk and left as shewn by diagram 3, Plate 6 ; double cord with
loose. Austrian knot at bottom , on back of skirt, as on
 MILITARY UNIFORMS. III

diagram 2, Plate 7, with caps at hip ; straight If for a Lieutenant, collar edged all round with
double square shoulder cords. The caps which are gold cord,and lace insidecord at top. Cuff trimmed
in the form of a small net, are sewn close down sameas diagram 3, Plate 4, without the extra trim
round the edge and stuffed with wadding ; their ming shewn on right side ofdiagram ,except, instead
positions are shewn on the diagrams representing of continuing all round the cuff it finishes at the
the parts where they occur. ends with a curl, same as diagram 1, Plate 3, the
If for a Lieutenant, the collar is flat braided all one at the forearm finishing just over it, and the
around, with tracing around the inside edge, as hindarm an equal distance from the centre.
shewn by the left hand end of Diagram 3, Plate 7. If for a Captain, collar same as Lieutenant. Cuff
On the sleeve there is an Austrian knot traced in | as Diagram 3, Plate 5, with the extra trimming
and out, as shewn by Diagram 3 , Plate 5 , divested shewn on right side carried all round, and the ends
of the eyes shewn on the right half of the diagram .
finished as directed for a Lieutenant.
If for a Captain , the collar is flat braided all If for a Major, collar edged all round with gold
along the top, with eyes thinly placed inside, as cord, and lace inside all round. Cuffs sameas Dia
shewn by right hand side of Diagram 3, Plate 7. gram 1, Plate 5.
On the sleeve an Austrian knot traced in and out, If for Colonel or Lieut.-Colonel, collar and cuffs
as Diagram 3, Plate 5, with eyes all around, aud sameas Major. All ranks wear badges .
feather in centre of cuff, as shewn on the right 359. - ROYAL ARTILLERY : FOOT. - Single breast
side of the same diagram . ed Tunic , nine holes regular ; bottom corners of
If for a Major, the collar is flatbraided allaround
and filled up as shewn by the centre portion of Dia skirt rounded off ; broad edged all round, except
gram 3, Plate 7. So that the formation of this collar,with scarlet cloth ; back skirt close,and pleat
figure may be clearly understood we give a full edged with scarlet ; buttonsat hip, double straight
sized representation of it by Diagram 4, Plate 6 , gold cord shoulder cords.
from which it will be seen that the outside of the If for Lieutenant,collar edged all round with gold
double eye is first traced , aud that in carrying the cord ,and lace inside cord at top. CUFFS— Austrian
tracing round an open space must be left until the knot traced in and out, as Diagram 3, Plate 5 , with
centre is reached, when the tracing is doubled back out the extra trimming shewn on right half, but
and the space filled up in coming out again , the ends finished as Diagram 1, Plate 3.
small eye filling up the hollow being formed by If for a Captain, collar same as Lieutenants.
the return tracing, which is then carried on to form Cuffs same as Lieutenants, and trimmed all round
the next figure, which is shewn partially formed. | knot,as shewn on right half of Diagram 3, Plate 5.
The correct over and underlayings of the tracing If for a Major, collar edged all round with gold
are sewn on the diagram ,and no matter what may cord ,and lace all round inside. Cuffs as Diagram
be the required size of the figure it isonly necessary 1, Plate 5.
to carry out the same principle, that is, leave an | If for Colonel or Lieut.-Colonel, collar and cuffs
alternate space in working to the centre , which fill same as Major. All ranks wear badges.
up in working from it. On the sleeve there is
broad Mohair braid coming to outside edge of cuff, edged 360 . - ROYAL ARTILLERY : HORSE . — Jacket
beyond that it is figured with tracing, asshewn by all round with round gold cord , and all round
Diagram 1, Plate 5 , and the inside of cuff as shewn the collar ; hooks and eyes ; quilted linings ; double
by same diagram . straight shoulder cords ; front ornamented with gold
If for Colonel or Lieut.- Colonel, collar and cuffs cord, as shewn by Diagram 1, Plate 7. Single gold
the same as Major All ranks wear badges. cord down sideseam , with crow 's toe at top, and
Austrian knotatbottom . After taking out the ne
358. - INFANTRY - ROYAL ENGINEERS.- S . B . cessary cuts,as directed in par. 321, and basting in
Tunic, with nine holes regular ; bottom corners of the canvas, no staytape being required, put the
skirts rounded off ; edged all around, except collar, cord round the edge, in doing which cast figure
with blue Velvet, the Velvet being seamed on the .eights at the sideseam , in the direction, and of the
edge, and then the edge turned in so that it lays proportion shewn on Diagram 4, Plate 7. The same
double on the Velvet which is then turned in nar- diagram shews also the widths between the side
row ; back skirt close, with pleat left free except | seam cords at their narrowest part, and the dimen
top and bottom , and edged with cord ; buttons at sions and position of the Austrian knots, the crow 's
hips ; double straight gold cord shoulder cords. toe at the top being represented by Diagram 3,
 II2 HOW TO MAKE

Plate 6. After the edges are turned in, flash baste are shewn by Diagram 1, Plate 1, from which it
the linen to which the hooks and eyes are sewn on will be seen that it turns from the end of the collar
the canvas, and prick on thebreast cord through all, to the top buttoning hole, and that the three top
which with the flash bastings, will be sufficient to points are equaldistancesapart ; at the centre point,
hold the hooks and eyes. To form the Loops after putting in the hole, and before putting on the
Commence sewing on the cord from the top , the facing, a small hook with its tongue outside is put
loops on the right side coming to the edge of the | as near the corner as possible, and, to the position
front only, and on the left side about three quarters the lapel lays back, an eye is worked with twist on
of an inch beyond , as represented on Diagram 1, the breast of the coat ; tha lapel is faced with the
Plate 7, so as to button over, large bell Regimental facings of the Regiment. The form , dimensions,
buttons on the ends of the loops on the right side ; , and position of the sword flap is shewnby Diagram
the diagram shews number and relative lengths of 4, Plate 1, it is seamed on so that all its points are
the loops, their top and bottom terminations and the same distance from the edge of the pleat,which
position of the shoulder cord. is made up plain ; the flap is fixed to the skirt all
If for Lieutenant, collar laced inside cord at top. round,and top, bottom , and front edged with gold
Cuffs same as foot Artillery . cord ,aud three buttons in the position shewn on the
If for a Captain , collar and cuffs same as foot diagram .
Artillery . If for a Lieutenant, collar rounded off at ends,
If for a Major, collar and cuffs same as foot Ar laced on top edge. Cuff plain laced one and three
tillery. quarter inch deep, with a point five and a half inches
If for a Lieutenant-Colonel or Colonel, collar and high .
cuffs sameas foot Artillery. All rankswear Badges. Ii for a Captain, collar and cuff sameasfor L ieu
361. - ARTILLERY STABLE JACKET, is blue lined If for a Major, collar laced all round. Cuff, first,
with scarlet, fifteen holes regular,bell buttons edged laced as forSubalterns, then a second row of lace,
all round with broad flat tracing, straight double shewing an eighth of an inch of light between the
shoulder cords of same tracing, sewn together by two, and the point of the outside row rising to nine
the edges ; for all ranks same tracing along bottom and a half inches from the bottom .
of collar. If for a Lieut.-Colonel or Colonel, collar and cuff
For Subalterns, there is an Austrian knot on the the same as Major. All rankswear Badges.
sleeve six inches high and two and three-quarters
wide,of the same flat cord as round the edges, and 364. - CAVALRY : HUSSARS.— Blue single breast
traced in and out, the whole rounded down to the ed Tunic , bottom corner of skirt rounded off, close
hind arm , in the manner shewn by Diagram 2, Plate back skirt, and pleat plain , fixed at bottom ; hooks
5 , and at the forearm at an equal distance from the and eyes ; edged all round, except collar, with flat
centre of the knot ; the point from which the knot gold Gimp laid on . Six loops and drops of Gimp
rises, on the outside, being two inches from the in front, with caps at end and Olivets on right side,
bottom of the sleeve. as on Diagram 5, Plate 3. Double row of Gimp
If for Field Officers, sleeve as Diagram 2, Plate 5. down sideseam ,with crow 's toe at top, as top of
Diagram 7 , Plate 6 ; Austrian knot on back of skirt,
Three upper ranks wear Badges. in the position and of the dimensions shewn on Dia
362. - ARTILLERY MESS WAISTCOAT. - Scarlet, gram 2, Plate 7 ; the Gimpdown sideseam and skirt
single breasted, hook and eye to top , stand collar, and the crow 's toe and Austrian knot traced in and
plain traced all round, pocket same as Infantry out.
Mess Vest. If for a Lieutenant, collar laced on the top with
363. - CAVALRY :LANCERS. — Blue,doublebreast tracing inside. Cuff, Austrian knot of gimp, traced
ed Tunic, (except 16th , Scarlet,) six holes regular, | in and out as shewn on Diagram 3, Plate 5,without
up to buttoning point ; bottom corners of skirts the ornamentation shewn on the right side of the
rounded, open back skirt, edged all round, except diagram .
the collar, narrow with scarlet, and sideseams and 1 If for a Captain , except thatgold laceand tracing
hindarms jeated with scarlet (except 16th , edged are used , it is the same as end on right side of Dia -
and jeated with blue,) pleatfixed at bottom ,buttons gram 3, Plate 7. Cuff, Austrian knot traced in and
at hip , sword flap on back of skirt, flat straight | out,as Diagram 3, Plate 5,and ornamentation shewn
shoulder cords. The form and dimensions of lapel on right side continued all around.
 MILITARY UNIFORMS. 113
If for Major, except that gold lace and tracing | ficient opening must be left at all parts where the
are used, collar same as centre of Diagram 3, Plate tracing has to pass under to permit of its doing so
7. Cuff, Austrian knot traced in and out, and or- with ease . Although a figure formed of Braid ,
namented as Diagram 4 , Plate 5 . Lace or Cord , always appears as if of one continuous
If for Lieut.-Colonel or Colonel, collar and cuff length , itmay, if necessary , be composed of several,
sameas Major. All ranks wear Badges. providing the loose ends are brought under an over
lay, in which case it is often necessary to put them
. 365. - CAVALRY : DRAGOONS. — Scarlet single through the garment.
breasted Tunic , nine holes regular, edged narrow ,
the edging being seamed on and the edge laid double / 367. - CAVALRY : DRAGOON STABLE JACKET.
on it with same cloth as Regimental facings, except Scarlet, collar rounded off in front, studs and hooks
collar, which is plain on the edge ; open back skirt, and eyes, lace all round and top of collar ; linings
pleat fixed at bottom ; buttons at hip ; sword flap drab , quilted. At the bottom of the sideseams, the
on back part of skirt, as Diagram 4, Plate 1, but back is cast into eyes of an elongated or oval form ,
cordIf on edge to be traced cach side. laying a little outwardsat the top, the whole being
for a Lieutenant, lace along top edge of collar | as shewn by Diagrain 4, Plate 3. For their proper
which is rounded off at the ends. Cuffs, Austrian formation a pattern of the two should be cut on the
knot, traced in and out, one eye cast under each double, with the portion of lace continuing from
side of knot and ends curled in , the whole of the them , then the outline of this pattern should be
dimensions, proportion, position , and form shewn marked on the garment,and the outside edge of the
by diagram 1, Plate 3. lace pricked on , a piece of buckram large enough
to receive the whole of the two eyes, being basted
If for a Captain , collar same as for Lieutenant. on the inside of the jacket. After sewing the out
Cuff, as Diagram 3, Plate 3, which is a double
Austrian knot, traced in and out, the lower part side edge, carefully draw in the inside with double
thread, putting the shortest stitches on the under
and knot being the same as for Lieutenant, and the
upper knota trifle less,as shewn by thediagram . side,and spread the fullness so as to make it lay re
! gular, then wad under the whole eye, centre and
If for a Major, the collar is laced all round. Cuff, and under the centre put a piece of cloth or
as Diagram 2, Plate 3 , which is a triple Austrian all,
velvet as the case may be, as it is generally the
knot, the bottom part and lower two being the same same
as for Captain ,and the upper knot slightly less. as the facings of the Regiment.
If for Lieut.-Colonel or Colonel, both collars and | 368 . - In the preceding summary , we have
cuffs sameas for Major. All ranks wear Badges. | described the general Regulation worn by the Offi
366 . - In the formation of double and triple cers of the British Army, with the exception of trou
sers, in which there are no special features calling
Austrian knots, the workman will find, as in the for separate notice. There are also garments pecu
case of a single one, that the whole of the outside
curves will have to be formed and the top turned liar to separate Regiments which we have not de
before the formation of those on the other side. In arescribed , such as Mess Waistcoats in Cavalry,asthey
the formation of Austrian knots, crow 's toes, or any not subject to any Regulation ; the particulars
figure in which Lace Cord or tracing overlaps or regarding any such garments can only be obtained ,
crosses, care should be taken to give a sufficient and in the case of Volunteer Uniforms, from the
amount of length to the upper layer, to permit of Regiment itself, but whatever may be the peculia
its laying fairly, without any drag or appearance of rities of any garment the principles to be followed
in its construction will be found in the instructions
force over the under one ; and in all cases where
the figure has afterwards to be traced round , a suf. | we have given .
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 PLATE 1. 1

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Diagram 1, Lapel for Lancer's Tunic. Dia. 2, Pocket and edges of Infantry Mess Vost. Dia . 3. Infantry Great ('oat,
(notto scale). Dia. 4, Sword Flap, and back of skirt of Lancer's Tunic . Working Scale and Incl:es.
MPLATE 2.

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INFANTRY SHELL JACKET.- Dia . 1, for Sub -Lieutenant ; Dia. 2, Lieutenant ; Dia. 3 , Captain ; Dia . 4 , Major ;
Dia. 5 , Lieut.-Colonel and Colonel ; Dia . 6 , Collar for Major, Lieut.-Colonel and Colonel.
NOTE .- In drawing the Knots, on diagrams 2, 4 and 5, as regards breadth, follow that on diagram 3.
 PLATE 3 .

DIA . 3 .
DIA . I.

DIA . 2 . DIA . 4 .

DIA . 5 .

DRAGOONS. — Dia, 1, Cuff for Lieutenant ; Dia. 2 , for Major, Lieut.-Colonel and Colonel ; Dia . 3, for Captain .
Dia . 4, Back of Cavalry Stable Jacket. Dia .5 , Breast Cord and Drop of Rífles.
PLATE 4 .

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Lieut .- Colonel and Colonel . Dia. 5 , Collar for Major , Lieut .- Colonel and Colonel .
 PLATE 5 .

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RIFLES. - Dia. 4, Cuff for Major, Lieut.-Colonel and Colonel ; Dia , 3, Cuffs for Lieutenant and Captain for Lieu .
tenant, Knot only for Captain , the ornamentation carried all round. Dia . 2, Cuff for Artillery Stable Jacket,
for Major, Lieut.-Colonel and Colonel. Dia . 4, Cuff for Major, Lieut.- Colonel and Colonel of Hussars.
PLATE 6 .

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and forMajor
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3, top ranks as statedof inRifles.
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back
figure of centre of Dia. 3, Plate 7. Dia , 5 . shoulder strap of Infantry Scarlet Patrol Jacket. Dia. 6,back end
of loops in frontof Infantry Blue Patrol Jacket (remainder as Dia , 5 , Plate 3.) Dia. 7, sideseam of Blue
Patrol Jacket.
 PLATE 7 .

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ing the ornamentation for
 " THE TAILOR AND OUTTER ” OFFICE
ARRANGEMENTS FOR TEACHING
The Artand Scienceof Outlind. SYSTEMS & CUTTING
COATS ,
At " The Tailor and Cutter " Office,
93, Drury Lane, London, W .O.
Trousers, Vests, Shirts, & c., & c.
IN THE FORM OF A SERIES OF LESSONS.
Every necessary arrangement and convenience being made at the
Tailor and Cutter Office to receive a limited number of Students, We have been induced to prepare ourown Systems for publication ,
who are placed under the tuition of a thorough competent and prac. in reply to communications from a large number of our Subscribers
tical teacher, we are prepared to treat with such as are desirous of living at a distance, who have expressed a strong desire to come and
becoming proficient in the Art of Cutting, and following the profes. take Lessons at our Cutting Rooms, but are so situated that this is
sion of a Cutter. impossible . For a period we were wont to meet these requests by
The fullest and most minute instructions in connection with ever drawing out our systems and sending them in the form of a series of
Lessons by post, our charge being 10s. per lesson . These demands
branch of the tailoring trade is imparted to young men entering our however soon became larger than we could supply, which has led
Cutting Rooms. Probably in no other Establishment in the United to the preparation
Kingdom is so much cutting done for every form and shape of man, of
and arrangement of our Systems for publication
thus affording the intelligent student opportunities of acquiring the
practical part ofcutting very rarely offered . Students are thoroughly A SERIES OF LESSONS
prepared for the Cutting Room before leaving our rooms. Upwards On Cutting all Garments, the same as we teach our Students at the
of 70 young men have passed through our hands during the last 12 Ta and Cutter Office, which will enable Students at a distance
months, who are actively engaged in Cutting Rooms; and while, as to acquire the Art of Cutting as taught by us. These Lessons are
far as we know , the whole are giving satisfaction, we can confidently six in number, and the greatest care has been exercised in preparing
say that many of them will prove themselves first-class cutters. them for publication .
As many enquiries continue to be made in regard to our arrange The Systems are each drawn out in large shaded diagrams. The
ments, we may state here, that in no case do we employ students at instructions contain every necessary detail for thoroughly under
sewing during tuition . We give no evening lessons after 7 o'clock , standing them -- one special feature in their get up is their simplicity ,
and as the large majority of our Students come from the country , being what they profess to be - what we consider THE BEST SYSTEM
expressly to acquire the art, our arrangements enable them to apply OF CUTTING IN THE FORM OF A LESSON .
themselves continuously from 10 a.m . to 7 p .m . each day, during the
period for which they arrange ; in this way, the Art of Cutting is LESSON 1.– Our Coat System .
acquired much more quickly, and at the same time, much more tho This Lesson shews Our Coat System , as taught at the Tailor and
roughly than is possible under the arrangements of any other firm . Cutter Office, in full detail ; thediagramsillustrating Forepart, Side
The question is frequently asked : Do you guarantee situations for body, Back , Skirt, Sleeve, with diagrams shewing how the collarmay
your Students ? With few exceptions, the whole of our late Students be fitted to the gorge ; accompanied with every necessary instruction
are at present in situations, nearly all of which were directly or in for the proper understanding of the system .
directly procured for them by us; providing situations howeverdoes
nud form a part of the conditions upon which Students are accepted
at our Office. We have simply to state that the calls made upon us LESSON 2. — Disproportion.
for Foremen , arising from the position in which we stand to the Shews the System adapted to the different formsofDisproportion ,
trade, is greater than thatmade upon any other Establishment, to viz : High and Low Shoulders ; Stooping and Extra -Erect Figures ;
which we invariably give our Students the preference, who have Large Waisted Figures, with diagrams shewing the mode of mea
shewn themselves capable of taking a situation ; so that while it suring, and how applied . This Lesson also shews theSystem adapted
amounts pretty nearly to a certainty that Students capable of acqui. to Dress Coats,Singleand Double Breasted Morning Coats. Detailed
ring the Art of Cutting, and of taking a situation, have one procured instructions accompany this Lesson .
for them , this forms no rart of the cop litions upon which we take
our Student's money. o
The following is the list of Systems as taught, in rotation :
LESSON 3. Overcoats.
Shews our Coat System adapted to Overcoats and embraces the
Top Frock , Chesterfield ,Reefer, Lounge,and Boys'Overcoats. Each
Vests- Roll Collar, no Collar, Double Breasted Roll Collar, and of these garments are illustrated with beautifully engraved dia
noCoats and Sleeve
ClericalFrock,
Collar,- Dress, ; deviations. grams— the letterpress giving a full exposition of the System as
and Morning, Frock Overcoat, Chesterfield adapted to these garments, and containing also an introductory Chap
Oxonian , Reefer, Clerical and Military ; deviations. ter on Breast Measure and Admeasurement Systems.
TROUSERS. - Fly Front, Whole Fall, Close, Wide ; deviation.
BREECHES. - Riding and Dress, and Pantaloons.
LEGGINGS and GAITERS.
LESSON 4. – Our Trousers System .
Being also adapted to Disproportionate Figures ; also to Riding
RIDING TROUSERS. . Trousers and Breeches. This original System drawn out on extra
DRAWERS and PANTS. large scale will be found a great boon to those ofour Subscriberswho
LADIES' JACKETS and HABITS. find a difficulty in Cutting their Trousers. It is - considering the
Boys'GARMENTS.
CLOAKS and CAPES, LIVERIES, & c.
handsomemanner it is got up - a marvel of cheapness.
For the Sons of Master Tailors the fee is Ten Pounds. Journey .
men aspiring to be Foremen , will be taught the Art of Cutting all
LESSON 5.- Our Vest System .
This is a valuable Lesson , the System being adapted to all the dif
ordinary garments for Five Pounds. “ Ordinary Garments ” mean ferent styles of Vests that are worn , these being shewn by ninebeau
everything that is necessary to take a situation as Under Cutter. The tifully engraved diagrams, accompanied with copious instructions,
period for Masters' Sons extends over Two MONTHS, (not three and is from the style it is got up, probably the most valuable and
months as appears in some previous notices,) and as it is practice useful work on Vest Cutting ever published.
that makes perfection , Students, during the second month , are al.
lowed under the supervision of our principal teacher - to practice
what they have acquired by cutting patterns. The timemay be ex
LESSON 6.— Our Shirt System ,
tended to Six Weeks, allowing a fortnight for practice -- for Seven Our Including Under Shirts, Drawers, & c., & c.
System for these under garments, has for some time been in
Pound . Ten Shillings. All fees paid in advance.
As the number of Students is limited, and the applications lately considerable demand; they are arranged to shew the latest improve
have been more than we could receive, it is desirable that applica ments
ted by
in the cutting of Under Clothing. Each garment is illustra
the necessary diagrams, accompanied with copious explana
tions should be made first by letter, as Students are accepted in the tions. Two additional diagrams are given shewingthe Shirt System
order in which the applications are made. adapted to Disproportionate Figures.
Cutters coming from the country, for one or two days, and having
lessons in one garment or more, the charge will be a matter of ar These Lessons are each handsomely got up in a pair ofcases, beau
rangement. tifully ornamented in gilt,and so arranged that they can be forwarded
All Communications to be addressed to JOHN WILLAMSON , 93, by post to any part of the United Kingdom , post free, on receipt of
Drury Lane, London, W .C ., who will always forward any informa.
tion that may be desired, by return of post. 3s. 6d. Each Lesson .
Wemay state to those from the ountry, wishing to call at the NOTE. -canLessons
complete, be had,ONE, TWC inandoneTHREE,being
together, ourCoatSystem
pair of cases, price 8s. 6d. The
Office that The Tailor and Cutter Office is just one minute's walk Series of FIVE LESSONS, containing Coat. Vest, and TrousersSystem
from Somerset House, and is the last house at the Frttom i f Drury for 128 60.
Lanc; and those wl.o are strangers in London , can , as a rule, be re The Tailor and Cuttı Omce, 93, Drury Lano. London, W .O.
communied to suitable lo ging.
 THE TAILOR AND CUTTER.
Is a Weekly and Monthly Journal of Fashion , Science of Cutting , and Trade. It deals in themost
detailed , instructive, and interesting fashion with everything connected with the Art and Science
of Cutting. Its contributors embrace a large number of experienced Cutters in every day practice,
in every part of the Kingdom . "Beautiful Lithograph Plates and Full Size Patterns accompany it,
while its engraved illustrations have never been equalled by any similar journal.
A Specimen Weekly Copy will be sent post free to any address on receipt of two stamps.
Price Two PENCE Weekly - ONE SHILLING Monthly. Extra Weekly Nos. Three Pence.
Those who may experience a difficulty in receiving The Tailor and Cutter through a local Book
seller, can have it direct from the Tailor and Cutter Office
Weekly for 13 weeks, post free for 3s.
Monthly for 3 months, 3s.
IIS, 6d.
Weekly for 12 months, 9
IIS, 6d.
Monthly for 12 months,
Many prefer becoming Subscribers for 12 months including our two large Spring and Autumn
Plates, the Annual Subscription for the whole will be as follows :
12 Months Journal with Large Plate India Proof f1
12 12 ) Extra Coloured Plate ... £I 45.
These are all forwarded, post and carriage paid, from the Tailor and Cutter Office.
The prices for sending The Tailor and Cutter abroad will be found on page 2.
The Tailor and Cutter Illustrations of NEW WORK ON
Modern British Liveries, Modern British Liveries.
Illustrations ofalltheir Usualand Standard Forms.
Plate beautifully Coloured and containing Thirty Figures. PRICE TEN SHILLINGS.
Our LIVERY PLATE, is thework our own Artist — the author of | While preparing the Models for our New Plate of British Liveries,
our Bi-Annual Plate, and Monthly “ Portrait Gallery ." As a work of l it occurred to us that something more was required to enable the
Art it fully sustains our Artist's reputation, and will be found to very members of the Tailoring profession both to produce and under
greatly excel - in Artistic Skill, arrangement and general effect stand the Liveries. This we provide in a full and exhaustive Trea
anything in the way of a Livery Plate ever offered to the trade, while tise on the subject of MODERN British Liveries. The work is
the price is such as brings it within the reach of the heads of every | accompanied with
respectable firm - however small. Nineteen Plates of Beautifully Shaded Diagrams.
A Plate giving all the latest changes and improvements which have
boen made in Modern British Liveries, has for some time been a felt Every minute particular in regard to the many details connected
want a want, we feel confident is now fully met in the Plate we with this special class of garments is set forth in the work , thus
have just prepared, in which every detail is worked out with the ut- enabling the tailor to produce any class or style of Livery worn at
most exactitude, our information in every case being received from the present time. The work forms a necessary and indispensable
the only authentic sources ; and the styles represented,being exactly companion to our Now Livery Plate .
the same as at present worn in the different grades of those who The various
keep servants. Asan example, one of the Coachman figures, repre. illustrated upondetails and trimmings
the diagrams, of tbe
which are different
drawn garments
to a large are
scale, and
sents the Livery worn the Coachman
by who drove the Lord Mayor, are as follows :
in a recent Lord Mayor's Show .
The following are the styles represented in rotation as they appear : Plate 1.- Butler's or Valets Dress Coat.
Footman 's Coatee, plain , (back). |Gamekeeper's Dress. 2. - Footman 's Full Dress .
Footman 's Coatee, and Striped Groom , with Gaiters. 3 . - Footman's Coatee.
Vest, (Front view ). Footman or Groom 's Great Coat. 4. - TwoFootman's
Vests - Coachman's
Dress Vest.
Long Vest and Coachman's or
Footman's Full Dress. Young Groom or Tiger. 5. - Coachman 's or Footman 's Dress Breeches.
Footman 's Coatee . Groom with Top Boots . 6 . - Footman's House Jacket.
Footman's Full Dress, (back ). Footman or Coachman's Great 7. - Coachman 's Full Dress Coat.
Coachman 's Full Dress . Coat, (back view ). 8 . - Coachman's Plain Frock Coat.
Valet or Butler's Dress. Footman's
Coachman 'sWorking Dress. 9 . - Riding Breeches and Gaiters.
Footman's Full Dress, (Front). Box Coat. 10 . - Great Coat for all Servants .
Page's Dress, (Front). Coachman 's Long Full Frock . 11. - Box Coat.
Footman's Full Dress. Huntsman 's Dress. 12. - Groom 's Frock .
Do. do. Postilion 's Dress. 13 . - Postilion 's Jacket.
Footman's Great Coat. Coachman 's Plain Frock, (front). 14. – Page's Jacket and Sleeve Vest,
Footman's Dress Coat. (back). Stable Suit. 15 . - Stable Jacket,
Footman 's Dress Coat, (front). Coachman 's Long Full Frock. 16 . - Huntsman 's Coat.
Page, (back view ). Coachman 's Plain Frock. , 17. - Gamekeeper's Coat.
Where a repetition of the samestyle ofcoat appears in thelist, these ,, 18 . - Drawers for all Servants.
are given to show the different styles in which these cocs are made. , 19. - Court Dress.
The Plate will be accompanied with a detailed REPORT of each The work is got up on very thick paper, and is bound in cloth ,
figure. SEVEN PATTERNS, in Brown Paper, may also be had
with the Plate as follows : Footman 's Full Dress Coat ; Footman 's PRICE TEN SHILLINGS.
Coatee ; Footman's Great Coat with Cape ; Groom 's Frock ; | " The Tailor and Cutter " Office , 93, Drury Lane.
Groom 's Breeches and Gaiters ; Page's Jacket ; Stable Jacket.
The price of the Plate is We undertake to forward the Livery Plate and Book carriage paid ,
TWELVE SHILLINGS. Patterns 28. 6 . * al to guarantee its safe delivery .
-- - - -
TT
590
.G3

72 " 172

Garment making ; a treatise , embracing the

whole subject of practical tailoring ,
giving special and detailed instructions
upon the making of every modern garment
made by tailors . A book of reference
equally adapted for the cutting room or
workshop , edited by J . Williamson with
introd . by the editor . J . Williamson
[n . d . ]
113 p .