Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 178

Eu ro pe

Dear Traveller
Although Europe is the last continent to arrive in our portfolio, it comes as no stranger. We began
exploring in 2016 when we launched Italy for our American clients and have gradually expanded our
offering since then. Our approach to Europe is the same as anywhere: specialist advice and a desire to
create meaningful experiences. And, we’ve discovered so much over the years. You’ll find some of our
favourites here, like snorkeling over a sunken city in Greece, painting tiles at the Delft factory and
learning the sport of hurling in Kilkenny. But to get a full sense of what we can do for you, please talk to
one of our specialists, who can share their first-hand knowledge to inspire and guide your travels.

We look forward to planning your next trip.

Mark Hanson, Managing Director

Introducing Audley
I t was a trip around Asia in the early 1990s that
ignited Craig Burkinshaw’s passion for travel.
On his return he was so keen to share his
Contents

experiences that he founded Audley, or Asian Greece 4-15


Journeys as we were then called. We offered a Cyprus 16-19
new type of travel – individual journeys, designed
Turkey 20-35
to match the traveller’s interests, tastes and
budget, created with an absolute commitment Croatia 36-45
to quality and authenticity. Today, this desire
Introducing Italy 46-47
to share authentic travel experiences is
undiminished and Audley is one of the UK’s Spain 48-63
most highly regarded specialist tour operators, Portugal 64-75
providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia,
Africa, the Middle East, Latin America, Flamenco performance in Madrid, Spain France 76-97
Australasia, North America, Antarctica and Germany 98-107
the Arctic, as well as Europe. Specialist knowledge
Austria 108-113
Our Europe specialists have all travelled
Tailor-made journeys extensively throughout the region and in many
Switzerland 114-123

The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every cases lived there, so you can rely on their Netherlands 124-127
trip is unique. Whether you want to stay in in-depth, first-hand knowledge. They regularly
Belgium 128-131
simple or luxurious accommodation, have great return to discover new hidden gems in each
guides on hand or explore under your own country, stay in the accommodation and meet Scotland 132-149
steam, travel for one week or five, we can create our guides – many of whom are firm friends –
Ireland 150-167
a trip to match your tastes and budget. We can as well as experience all the excursions and
also design trips for a special occasion, whether activities. We believe this is the only way that Iceland 168-176
this is a spectacular honeymoon or milestone we can genuinely offer you a tailor-made service Useful information 177
anniversary. Throughout the brochure you’ll find and enable you to experience a side of Europe
suggested itineraries and some of our favourite that others might miss.
places to stay, but these are all just for inspiration
as each trip is created uniquely for you and there Planning your trip
are many more options available.
Speaking to one of our specialists is the best way
to start planning your trip, whether you already
know where you want to go or just have the
seed of an idea. They can discuss your plans,
offer advice and give you ideas and inspiration
for your trip, before creating a detailed itinerary,
which will be forwarded to you together with
maps, accommodation descriptions and a price.
The same specialist will then refine the plans
until you’re completely satisfied and will be on
hand to answer questions from your very first
telephone call until you return from your trip.
Live music in a traditional Irish pub, Enniskillen Hunting truffles in Provence, France

Introduction 3
Greece
B est known as the cradle of European culture, Greece still boasts a wealth of
ancient sites, from the stately Parthenon to the sacred ruins at Delos, to the mountainside temple
at Delphi. But there’s more to the country than its distant past. In the shadow of the Acropolis, Athens
is a thriving modern city, with a vibrant arts scene and lively cafe culture. The country’s landscape,
which has inspired poets since Homer waxed lyrical about wine-dark seas, offers an outdoor
playground where you can kayak through crystal-blue coves, hike past white-washed island villages or
simply laze in the sun by the shimmering Aegean. This natural bounty supports a distinctive cuisine with
an emphasis on fresh local ingredients. You can indulge at seaside tavernas or we can arrange for you
to share a meal with a family in their own home.

Audley in Greece
A country awash with ancient ruins and Meteora
known for its food, Greece provides a Kastraki
Kalambaka
wealth of possibilities for rewarding
experiences. Whether you’d like a guided
tour of the Acropolis or Delphi, want to Aegean
seek out Athens’ best street art, or learn
GREECE Sea
how to cook Greek food at home, we’ll get
you closer to the real Greece and its people.
You could also opt to hike to the
7
monasteries at Meteora, kayak to sunken Delphi Arachova 0 30 miles

ruins, take a tour of Santorini’s wineries, or Galaxidi 0 50 kilometres

see how Greek honey is made by visiting a


1
beekeeper near the seaside town of ATHENS
Galaxidi. Our specialists have tried out a Olympia Mycenae
range of things to do in Greece that will Cape Sounion
6 Epidavros 2 3
offer you a deeper understanding of the Nafplio Mykonos
country, and they’ll work with you to include Ionian Hydra Port
Mykonos town
Sea Hydra
5
activities that reflect your own interests.

Accommodation
Pollonia
From whitewashed villas that perch on the Milos Adamantas
Oia
rim of a caldera overlooking the Aegean to Imerovigli
4 Fira
concept hotels in downtown Athens, we can Santorini

offer you a wide range of places to stay in


Greece. We have hand-picked a selection of
memorable properties which will suit a
variety of tastes and budgets. You could stay
1 Athens 4 Santorini 7 Delphi
at a neoclassical mansion decorated in
Take in the Acropolis and This striking volcanic island is Visit the seat of the Oracle of
traditional style, a minimalist hideaway on a
Parthenon, the heart of the dotted with blue-domed Delphi, among a host of ruins at
sleepy Greek island, a former Venetian sea
classical city in the Ancient churches and caves dug out one of the ancient world’s most
captain’s house in a once-strategic port
Agora, and the village-like from the cliffs. sacred sites.
town, or an inn with a view of the Meteora
streets of Plaka. See page 11 See page 9
monasteries – and that’s just a taster.
See pages 6-7
5 Hydra 8 Meteora
2 Cape Sounion A diminutive island with Witness medieval monasteries
Stand at the ancient Temple traffic-free streets and an perched on towering outcrops
of Poseidon, for views across unspoiled interior, within easy in an otherworldly landscape at
the Aegean. reach of Athens. one of Greece’s most unusual
See page 7 See page 14 religious settlements.
See page 10
3 Mykonos 6 Nafplio
Clear blue seas, secluded Venetian fortresses and
beaches, a whitewashed town mansions, Ottoman
and lying just offshore, the townhouses, and narrow
ancient Greek site the Isle cobbled streets with fountains
of Delos. await you in Nafplio on the
See page 12 Argolic Gulf.
See page 8

Rocky coastline, Milos Black olives, Santorini

www.audleytravel.com/greece • 01993 683 645 • Greece 5


Monastiraki Square and the Acropolis, Athens

Athens Hotel Grande


Bretagne, Athens
One of the oldest cities in the world, Athens
Looking proudly over Athens’ central Syntagma
wears its history like a badge of pride. The
Square, as it has since the late 1800s, the Grande
Acropolis and its crowning glory, the Parthenon,
Bretagne has served as the Greek government’s
look down over the city from their lofty
general headquarters, the British HQ after
viewpoint, but everywhere you go you’ll come
World War II, and the house of the Greek Prime
across ancient ruins from temples and theatres
Minister. Today, the hotel’s traditional style recalls
to triumphal arches. There are also Byzantine The Parthenon, Athens this illustrious past. It drips with old-world
churches and Ottoman mansions to explore (the
elegance, as you’ll see from walking across the
city was conquered multiple times throughout Ancient Acropolis & the grand entrance’s black marble floor, past its
the ages), world-class museums, beaches and
Acropolis Museum stately columns. The 320 rooms adopt the same
ocean views. Athens remains a thriving city with
classical style and, in some cases, look over the
a lively arts scene, and you can see street art on Visible from all over Athens, the Parthenon sits
Acropolis. The dining caters for everything from
buildings all over the city and, by night, attend live at the highest point of the Acropolis, lording over
haute cuisine to a casual poolside snack, and the
music, dance and drama performances. Areas of the city since ancient times. Exploring the
rooftop pool offers views over the city.
the heart of Athens are closed to vehicles, so extensive site with a guide, offers a better
you’re best exploring on foot and enjoying the understanding of the ruins and their historical
city views from rooftop bars and restaurants. significance. Your guide will lead you through
2,500 years of history, as you hear about the
function of each building, the construction
techniques, the roles of the monuments and the
complex’s importance as the hub of classical
society. Making your way up to the Acropolis,
you’ll get an introduction to the origins of this
great city of temples and the importance of
Pericles, the Greek statesman who
masterminded the construction of its main
structures. After your tour of the site, you’ll visit
the Acropolis museum witnessing original
sculpture and archaeological finds dating to
several different periods.
Street art, Athens Hotel Grande Bretagne, Athens

6
Temple of Poseidon, Cape Sounion

A game of backgammon, Plaka, Athens Fresh bread, Athens Plaka, Athens

Athens food lover’s Cape Sounion


walking tour At the southern tip of the Attica Peninsula, close
The Greeks are passionate about their food. to Athens, this steep headland looks out over the
Tasting some of the country’s best-loved dishes Aegean Sea and its many islands. At its head is
in their place of origin is an enlightening way to the white-marble Temple of Poseidon, dedicated
explore Greek culture and traditions, and Athens to the god of the sea and surrounded on three
perhaps offers the most diverse range of food in sides by water. Built in 444 BC, during the
the country. This half-day walking tour will give Golden Age of Athens, it was the legendary spot
you an introduction to the city’s markets, delis, where Aegeus, king of Athens, flung himself into
bakers and food purveyors, as well as Greek the water when he saw his son Theseus’s ship
food traditions and customs. Your guide will returning with black sails and mistakenly believed
show you around the heart of Athens, together him dead. Sixteen of the temple’s original Doric
with the up-and-coming area of Psirri, where columns remain, giving you an impression of the
Athens’s central market, the Varvakios Agora, is scale of the original structure.
located, enjoying many food stops along the way.
AthensWas, Athens You’ll pause at a local souvlaki restaurant in Kayaking at Cape Sounion
Monastiraki Square, where you can try this
The sea at Cape Sounion is completely clear,
AthensWas, Athens enduringly popular dish with the meat of your
fading from a light turquoise to a deep cerulean.
Stylish AthensWas, and its vintage decor, is a far choice. The final leg of your tour takes you to
This makes sea kayaking a real treat, but
cry from some of the traditional grand hotels in Saint-Irene’s Square for a sweet Greek dessert of
exploring this way also lets you observe ancient
the city. Throwback pieces from the fifties, sixties loukoumades, honey-soaked doughnuts.
Greek ruins from an unusual perspective: the
and seventies blend into the design scheme of
waterline. At Cape Sounion, you can join a
the rooms and communal spaces, with wood
kayaking tour with an experienced guide. You’ll
panels and mid-20 th-century furniture a feature
push off from Charakas Beach and glide along
throughout. Despite the period feel of the
the coast to the Temple of Poseidon. Along the
design, the 21 rooms don’t lack modern facilities.
way, you can swim and snorkel off beaches that
Popular with both guests and locals, the hotel’s
dot the coastline. As you approach the temple,
fine-dining restaurant, Sense, concentrates on
you’ll see its surviving ribcage of Doric columns
innovative Greek cuisine. From its top-floor
towering on a promontory, before visiting the
venue, you can dine with views of the Acropolis.
structure on foot.
The hotel boasts a great central location.
Kayaking, Cape Sounion

www.audleytravel.com/greece • 01993 683 645 • Greece 7


Narrow streets of Nafplio

Nafplio Epidavros & olive oil tasting


Strategically set on a naturally protected bay on An ancient city known as a medical and healing
the Argolic Gulf, Nafplio has attracted hub, Epidavros is home to one of Greece’s most
international attention for centuries. It was held acoustically flawless theatres. This tour gives you
by the Franks, Venetians and Ottomans in times the opportunity to explore these ruins in an
past, and later served briefly as the first Greek intimate and relaxed way followed by an
capital. It’s one of the most attractive towns introduction to local olive oil and its production.
along the coast, its faded grandeur and tangle of Your guide will tell you in detail about the site, Nafplia Palace Villas, Nafplio
narrow streets, chic cafes and small museums an where ancient Greek patients came from far and
appealing medley of historic styles and influences. wide to partake in its healing rituals. You’ll visit Nafplia Palace Villas, Nafplio
Sandy beaches are just a short walk away, and the site’s amphitheatre, where your guide will Part of a large clifftop property overlooking the
the town also makes a great base for exploring explain its powerful acoustics. Then, to round off town, the villas are some of the most exclusive
the nearby wine region and ancient sites of your tour, you’ll be driven to a local olive oil lodgings in Nafplio. They’re set among shady
Epidavros and Mycenae. Nafplio was an producer, where you’ll learn what makes the pines and offer far-reaching views over the sea.
important port in the Middle Ages and fortified Greek oil so well-respected around the world. The 33 villas themselves are spacious and bright
by the Venetians in the early 18 th century. Their with high quality finishes, sea views and a terrace.
Palamidi Fortress sits high above the town, Ancient Olympia tour Light neutral tones and natural stone
dominating an already scenic landscape. complement the lush surroundings and the deep
Olympia had always held significance to the blue of the sea. Some villas also have private
Greek people as the place where Zeus was said plunge pools and there is an infinity pool
to have fought and defeated his father Cronus. exclusively for villa guests to use, as well as an
With the inception of the Olympic Games in the additional pool by the main building.
8th century, the site expanded to include temples,
training facilities and a stadium. Touring the
remains of the ancient site with a local guide
brings the ruins to life. You’ll see the Temple of
Hestia, where the modern Olympic torch is lit
before beginning its journey around the world
and the original stadium, which could seat 45,000
spectators. The straight running track remains
along with its stone starting blocks.
Theatre of Epidavros Running track, Olympia

8
Galaxidi Beekeeper, Itea

Hotel Ganimede, Galaxidi Theatre of Delphi

Galaxidi Visit to a beekeeper


A small fishing town on the Gulf of Corinth, Your driver will take you to visit a local Greek mythology
Galaxidi has the atmosphere of a Greek island beekeeper in nearby Itea for a close view of
In Delphi, you can stand in the navel of
but sits on the mainland not far from Delphi. Its traditional Greek honey production. You’ll hear
the world. When Zeus wanted to find
distinct character stems largely from the fact that about the life of the bees and their importance,
the centre of his Grandmother Earth,
Galaxidi was only accessible by boat until 1963 as well as the process of making honey. You’ll be
Gaia, he released two eagles to fly from
and developed in relative isolation. For many given a protective suit before heading out into
opposite directions. They met at Delphi,
years, the town was home to Greece’s most the garden to view the hives, and you might have
which became the seat of the Oracle
important shipping families, and their grand the opportunity to hold one of the honeycomb
and one of the most holy places in
neoclassical mansions still line the waterfront. frames and observe the bees up close, should
ancient Greece. The myth takes on a
Today, you can stroll along the promenade, feast you wish.
new resonance when you hear it again
on fresh seafood and soak up the village
standing amid the ruins of Apollo’s
atmosphere. With its two deep, natural ports, Ancient Delphi tour sanctuary, gazing out over the
it’s no surprise that Galaxidi has a rich nautical
Set on the slopes of Mount Parnassus, Delphi mountains and across the olive and
heritage.
was an important site in ancient Greece, with pine trees to the Gulf of Corinth.

Hotel Ganimede, Galaxidi pilgrims journeying from afar to consult the The landscape and mythology of
A former sea captain’s house that dates from oracle. Visiting the sanctuary with an expert Greece are deeply intertwined and one
1890, Hotel Ganimede is a home away from guide brings the extensive ruins to life. You begin of the country’s biggest draws is the
home. A pathway lined with flowers leads off the your tour by exploring the small Delphi Museum, chance to walk in the footsteps of gods
street to an inner courtyard. The main building is which showcases a collection of statues and and monsters. Our guides weave
decorated in traditional style and is home to paintings together with the tripod where the together history and myths as you
eight of the 11 rooms with the remaining three Pythia (high priestess) sat while communicating explore, bringing to life sights like the
across the courtyard. They differ in style and size with the oracle. Your guide will then lead you Acropolis, Olympia or Delos, birthplace
and range from traditional spaces with antique around the site, pointing out highlights of the of Apollo and Artemis. We can also
furniture to the Modern Suite, which is ruins as you go, from temples and treasuries to arrange for tours that let you see these
decorated in contemporary style. Some rooms votive monuments and statues. mythologically important places from a
also have a small kitchenette and the large different perspective, like hiking the
Traditional Suite can sleep up to five guests. paths from ancient Delphi.

www.audleytravel.com/greece • 01993 683 645 • Greece 9


Meteora

Meteora Meteora monasteries by


A testament to the faith, ingenuity and
e-bike at sunset
dedication of medieval monks, the monasteries Watching the serenity and stillness of Meteora
of Meteora perch incongruously on towering against the changing tones of the setting sky
pinnacles. Forged over millions of years, a series makes it easy to understand why the monks
of monumental columns rise from the valley chose this spiritual place as their base. A great
floor. This otherworldly landscape would be way to stay away from the crowds as much as
worthy of a visit in itself, but topped by these possible is to take an e-bike tour of the area with
seemingly inaccessible structures, it becomes an guide Vasilis or his wife Jenny. This is an easy tour,
enthralling destination. Along with the with the bike’s battery doing most of the work
monasteries are cave hermitages, viewpoints and for you, and your guide offering an insight into
legendary tales of invasion, royal patronage, the region and its history as you pedal.
supernatural beings and sheer grit and
determination. The monastic complex remains Doupiani House
much as it would have in its heyday. Long flights Hotel, Meteora
of steps and chasm-spanning bridges allow you to A drink on the terrace at Doupiani House affords
Pindus Mountains
reach the monasteries, with panoramic views at you some of the best views of Meteora in the
viewpoints along the way. area. The hotel sits just under the rocks of the
Pindus Mountains by 4x4
monasteries on the outskirts of the village of
The Zagori region of the Pindus Mountains, Kastraki, a five-minute walk from the nearest
which flank Meteora, sees far fewer visitors than bars and tavernas. Its garden, filled with lilacs,
other parts of Greece and its 46 villages, known roses and jasmine, makes a great place to catch
as Zagorohoria, follow a traditional way of life. the sunrise over the landscape. The 30 rooms
Joined by precipitous mountain roads flanked by are all decorated in a similar traditional style but
deep valleys and arresting folds of rock, it makes with modern amenities, and many have balconies
an engaging area for a 4x4 adventure. You’ll be with views of the renowned rocks or the valley
accompanied by a private driver, so you’ll get an below. The hotel sources organic ingredients for
insight into local culture and geology, informative its breakfasts, mostly from the hotel garden and
commentary on everything you see, and an the village, and you’ll be able to try local eggs,
introduction to the way of life in the villages Meteora honey and homemade jams.
you visit.
Varlaam Monastery, Meteora

10
Craft shop, Oia

Oia, Santorini Canaves Oia Hotel, Oia

Doupiani House Hotel, Meteora Red Beach, Santorini

Santorini Santorini wineries visit Oia


A striking volcanic setting, traditional white Grapes have been cultivated for wine on Pinned to the northern tip of Santorini, Oia is a
houses teetering on cliffsides, and vivid sunsets Santorini since ancient times. The island’s climate traditional hilltop town whose blue-domed
make Santorini one of the best-loved Greek and volcanic soil provide a distinctive terroir, churches are set against a backdrop of
islands. Along with this, you can expect fine food, which has led to its reputation as a producer of whitewashed houses and azure sea. Cafes,
multi-hued beaches and views that stretch fine wines. Your driver takes you to two of the tavernas, art galleries and craft shops border the
beyond its cliff-cradled lagoon out across the sea. island’s wineries to tour the facilities and sample streets, and the remains of a Venetian fortress
Crescent-shaped Santorini, with its high cliffs and their wines. You’ll learn about the unusual crowns the clifftop. Below the town, down a long
deep-blue lagoon, is the remains of a much larger growing traditions here, why some grapes are series of steps leading past blood-red cliffs, is the
volcanic island blown apart by a cataclysmic picked at night, and how the wines are aged – all tiny port of Ammoudi with its brightly painted
eruption almost 4,000 years ago. The heart of from the people who dedicate their lives to fishing boats and many tavernas. Oia is
the island collapsed into the sea, leaving a creating some of Greece’s finest wines. undeniably handsome and particularly well
massive caldera nearly surrounded by pumice known for its sunsets.
cliffs. There are even hotels hidden in caves dug Santorini local life tour
into the cliffs. Santorini is also acknowledged as Canaves Oia Hotel, Oia
If you look beyond Santorini’s modern-day A sunny retreat amid the narrow streets of Oia,
one of Greece’s most important wine producers,
incarnation as a travel destination, you can still this hotel nestles into the cliffside, looking down
with vines trained in a unique manner into a
find traditions preserved and the old ways of life on Santorini’s caldera and the sea. Gleaming
basket-like structure that protects the fruit from
maintained. A privately guided tour gives you a white exteriors and 18 rooms converted from
harsh winds.
feel for how life has been lived on the island for the caves that are a feature of the island remind
hundreds of years. There’s the opportunity to you that you’re in Santorini, while the attentive
meet residents such as Petros, who welcomes staff and special details set the hotel apart. The
you to his farm where you’ll have lunch and rooms are set over a number of levels,
witness (or even turn your hand to) the making connected by stone steps, and all have
of fava, a Santorini delicacy made with yellow a terrace, sea views and a domed ceiling
split peas. Throughout the day, you can characteristic of the caves. The hotel’s swimming
encounter the island’s often-overlooked history pool and terrace are set against the backdrop of
in many other ways, such as visiting a traditional the Aegean Sea.
sea captain’s home and walking age-old
donkey paths.

Vine basket, Santorini

www.audleytravel.com/greece • 01993 683 645 • Greece 11


Thatched windmills, Mykonos

Mykonos Mykonos boat tour Grace Mykonos, Mykonos


Entering this hotel feels a little like arriving at a
Whitewashed houses and churches, lively For a languid exploration of the area, you can
friend’s home. The staff go to great lengths to
beaches, clear blue seas and glamorous nightlife join a catamaran cruise. Setting sail from Kalafari
create a warm, welcoming atmosphere of
are all hallmarks of cosmopolitan Mykonos. Beach on the southeast of the island, you’ll cruise
comfort, relaxation and luxury. Just a two-minute
Along with quintessential views and reliably to the secluded coves around Rineia and Delos
walk from the sandy beach of Agios Stefanos and
warm weather, the Greek island also offers islands. Setting anchor in an untouched crescent
a short shuttle ride into Mykonos Town, the
upmarket hotels, art galleries and a legion of beach, you can swim and snorkel in the water,
property is within easy reach of the beach
bars, clubs and restaurants that attract a young which is so clear you can see the sand beneath
without feeling too removed from the action.
and affluent crowd. Wander beyond the town, your toes. A lunch of freshly made local delicacies
The 32 rooms, similar to the rest of the hotel,
though, and you’ll find archaeological sites, old will be served on board, before you head back
are bright and comfortable with modern
monasteries, quiet beaches and old thatched along Mykonos’s southern coast, stopping off for
amenities and clean lines. All have an outdoor
windmills. One of the most important more swimming opportunities along the way.
terrace or balcony, most have sea views, and
archaeological sites in Greece, the isle of Delos is Chilled drinks are served throughout the day,
some include their own plunge pool. The
easy to visit in a day from Mykonos. According including the chance to try raki, an aniseed-
outdoor pool and its accompanying poolside
to Greek mythology, the twins Apollo and sweetened local aperitif.
restaurant and bar are open throughout the day,
Artemis were born here, and the island was an
and there is also a gym and a small spa.
important place of pilgrimage for visitors from Private tour of ancient Delos
all over Greece. Its well-preserved ruins and
Steeped in Greek mythology and a sacred
archaeological museum offer a vivid insight into
pilgrimage place, the long-abandoned island of
life and beliefs in ancient Greece.
Delos, off the coast of Mykonos, is one of the
most important archaeological sites in Greece.
You’ll visit with a private guide who can bring its
3,000-year history to life. You’ll wander through
streets lined with the crumbling ruins of old shop
fronts and take in market squares that were once
hives of activity for traders. Throughout your
visit, your guide tells you about the island’s
religious and commercial significance and about
the fortunes of its former inhabitants, looking
beyond the ruins alone.
Delos Grace Mykonos, Mykonos

12
Rock formations, Milos

Boat moored off the beach, Mykonos Archaeological site, Delos

Olive stall, Milos View from Plaka Castle, Milos Coastline, Mykonos

Milos geological tour


Volcanic Milos has a range of topographical
features, and this private guided tour takes you
to the best of the island’s geological sites and
offers an engaging explanation of how they were
formed and the role they have played in the
island’s history. Mined since Neolithic times,
riddled with caves, hot springs and surreal
beaches, it’s a story of human progress and raw
natural power. Your guide will explain the earliest
history of the island and how some of its most Milos Breeze Boutique Hotel, Milos
Plaka, Milos
unusual geological features were formed. You’ll
also visit the Milos Mining Museum and then Milos Breeze Boutique
Milos
Kalamos, where small fumaroles spew out hot Hotel, Milos
A volcanic island in the heart of the Aegean, steam that you can feel with the back of your A stylish and peaceful base for exploring the
Milos is endowed with an unusual landscape that hand. You’ll pass salt fields and port towns and Greek island that bears its name, Milos Breeze
frames its many beaches in pink, orange and visit the abandoned sulfur mines at Paliorema. Boutique Hotel is set on a cliff overlooking the
dazzling white rock. It’s one of the Cycladic Aegean Sea. You’re just a ten-minute walk from
Islands, but far less visited than its counterparts, Pollonia, the small fishing village celebrated for its
which gives it a greater sense of local character. long and sandy beach, traditional waterfront
Milos owes its multi-hued landscape to its restaurants, whitewashed houses and churches,
volcanic origins, a fact that obsidian miners and photogenic sunsets. Blending all-white
exploited as far back as 15,000 years ago. Today, Cycladic architecture with modern and minimalist
the curious geological phenomena — rock interiors, the hotel has a sea-facing saltwater
formations, hot springs, hidden caves and unusual infinity pool with sun terrace, a bright dining
beaches — are a large part of Milos’s appeal, area, and a team of helpful staff who can advise
twinned with its long history. It has been on the area’s best attractions and activities.
inhabited since the Bronze Age, and you can find Elsewhere, the 23 light-flooded rooms all have a
many archaeological sites across the island. Plaka, balcony or terrace overlooking the sea. Some of
the island’s capital, has a core of labyrinthine the more luxurious rooms offer a private plunge
streets and a lofty castle. pool or spa bath.
Sulfur mines, Paliorema

www.audleytravel.com/greece • 01993 683 645 • Greece 13


Tailoring your trip
The itineraries shown are designed to give you
an idea of what is possible, and are routes that
work particularly well. We can use these as a
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely
different itinerary to suit your tastes and
interests. Please call one of our Greece
specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 683 645

Getting around
Most international flights to Greece arrive in
Athens, though there are some direct flights to
the larger islands and many of the smaller islands
have local airports. There are two major modes
of transportation for getting to and from the
Hydra Port
Greek islands: ferries and flights. Ferries form an
efficient network that connects the islands to
Athens and each other. Fast ferries cost a bit
more but can cut the time in half and offer
comfortable assigned seats and a snack bar, as
well as water views during your trip. On both the
mainland and the islands, once you have your
feet on the ground, private overland tours with
English-speaking drivers are the best way to
get around.

Men at a local taverna, Hydra Traffic free streets, Hydra When to go


Hydra Bratsera Hotel, Hydra Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Full of character, Bratsera Hotel resides in a ~ ~ 3 33 33 33 3 3 33 33 3 ~


Not even bikes are allowed on Hydra. This
UNESCO-protected building whose history 33 The best time to travel.
little island is traffic free apart from mules and
as a sponge factory goes back from the 1970s 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
boats. Time here moves slowly and, in many ~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
to the 1860s. The personality and history of
ways, that’s Hydra’s appeal. Yet, the island’s
the property have been kept alive through the Generally speaking, April to June and September
chic, sophisticated air endures and it has
careful preservation of original details. With and October are the best times to visit Greece.
proved a fashionable destination since the
just 25 rooms, the hotel has a homelike feel Temperatures are warm but not stifling, and
1950s and 60s, when the likes of Sophia Loren
to it, and you can expect attentive service. you’ll find that destinations are open but still
and Leonard Cohen were regular visitors.
Each room is different to fit around the fabric relatively quiet. The period from November to
Hydra has been inhabited since the 3rd
of the original structure but, like the rest of February tends to be colder, but city attractions
millennium BC and used as a maritime base
the hotel, maintains a historical charm. Rooms remain open and are pleasantly quiet. July and
for successive kingdoms. Modern-day Hydra
feature rough-hewn, wooden ceiling beams August bring steamy, hot weather and hordes of
has only one town, simply called Hydra Port,
and whitewashed walls, and are decorated visitors at the main sights and on the islands. One
set on a crescent-shaped bay on the north of
with historic maps, woven rugs, and antique of the best times to visit Greece, May is a good
the island.
furnishings. month to travel if you’re looking to experience
both the cities and the islands. September is
Hike to the monastery of another great time to visit. The weather remains
Agia Matrona hot throughout the month, sea temperatures
stay warm, and visitors start to thin out as
Time on Hydra moves slowly. If you do
children go back to school.
choose to venture beyond Hydra Port,
walking along the dirt trails that wind through Time difference: GMT+3 hours
the island’s terraced fields and pine forests,
you’ll get a feel for Greece as it was during the Prices
19 th century. However, trails are not well
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
marked, trailheads can be difficult to find, and
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline
paths fork without warning. By walking with
prices for your trip to Greece on our website,
an expert local hiking guide, you’ll not only
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
avoid any wayfinding issues, but get an
your plans.
introduction to the island’s history and
lifestyle, whilst enjoying the views.
Bratsera Hotel, Hydra

14
Suggested itineraries

Athens Delphi Italy


Rome
Athens

Mykonos Mycenae Naples


Hydra Positano
Olympia
Nafplio Epidavros
Mykonos Greece

Milos Mykonos

Santorini Santorini

Athens & the Greek Islands Highlights of Romantic Greece & Italy
Combine ancient history and modern culture in Ancient Greece Highlights of Italy and Greece feature on this
the Greek capital of Athens and then soak up Some of Greece’s most significant archaeological relaxed trip that takes you from the streets of
the atmosphere of four characterful Greek sites and ancient masterpieces are brought to life Rome to the Amalfi Coast. You’ll then travel to
islands: Hydra, Santorini, Mykonos, and the by knowledgeable guides. Highlights include the Greece and the Cycladic islands of Santorini
lesser-known Milos. Acropolis and Delphi, as well as lesser-known and Mykonos.
gems such as the Ancient Agora of Athens and
Day 1 Arrive in Athens, where you’ll be the island of Delos. Day 1 Arrive in Rome, where you’ll be met
met and taken to your hotel. Enjoy and taken to your accommodation.
a Greek dinner at the home of a Enjoy a guided evening city tour.
Day 1 Arrive in Athens where you’ll be met
local resident.
and taken to your accommodation. Day 2 Take a private guided tour of the
Day 2 Enjoy a private guided tour of the Meet your guide for a panoramic city Vatican, including the Sistine
Acropolis and the modern Acropolis introduction. Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica.
Museum.
Day 2 Take a private guided tour of the Day 3 Taste your way around Rome,
Day 3 Travel by ferry to the cosmopolitan Acropolis and the Acropolis stopping with your guide to sample
Greek island of Hydra. You’ll have Museum. wine, cheeses, espresso, and pizza.
time to explore the cobbled lanes,
Day 3 Travel to the ancient site of Delphi Day 4 You’ll travel to Naples by train and
restaurants, and shops.
to learn about the Oracle who onwards to the Amalfi Coast and
Day 4 Head to the port and board the delivered her prophecies from there. the cliffside town of Positano. You’ll
ferry for the island of Milos. You’ll have the afternoon to relax or
Day 4 You’ll spend the day in Athens
arrive at your accommodation and explore the town.
visiting the Ancient Agora and the
spend the afternoon relaxing.
National Archaeological Museum. Day 5 Take a guided hike along the Path of
Day 5 Take a private tour of Milos to visit the Gods, the clifftop trail above the
Day 5 Meet your guide and visit Olympia,
the smaller towns, ancient Amalfi Coast. Stop off along the way
the birthplace of the Olympic
catacombs, the spot where the for a traditional lunch.
Games. Enjoy lunch with wine at a
Venus de Milo was discovered, and
local restaurant. Day 6 Visit the hilltop Amalfi Coast town
Sarakiniko Beach.
of Ravello. Later, enjoy wine tasting
Day 6 Enjoy a guided walking tour of
Day 6 Enjoy a guided geological tour of the at a local vineyard.
Olympia and its Archaeological
island to visit volcanic fields, beaches,
Museum before journeying to the Day 7 Travel to Naples for your flight to
and an abandoned sulphur mine with
seaside town of Nafplio. Santorini. You’ll be met at the
time to relax in the afternoon.
airport and driven to your hotel.
Day 7 Meet your guide and visit the ancient
Day 7 Travel by ferry to Santorini, arriving
Greek theatre at Epidavros, where Day 8 Enjoy a private guided tour of two
with plenty of time to explore or
performances are still held today. Santorini wineries.
simply take in the atmosphere.
Day 8 Return to Athens, stopping at Day 9 Enjoy a catamaran cruise around
Day 8 Explore Santorini with a guide,
Mycenae to visit the 3,300-year-old Santorini’s caldera. You’ll have time
visiting some small towns and
Tomb of Agamemnon. Later, enjoy to swim and admire the sunset.
stopping at a farm for lunch.
lunch and a wine tasting at a winery.
Day 10 Board your ferry to Mykonos. On
Day 9 You have the morning to relax.
Day 9 Today you’ll fly to the island of arrival, you’ll be driven to your
In the afternoon, board a private
Mykonos. After arriving at your accommodation.
catamaran cruise around Santorini
accommodation, the day will be
and admire the sunset.
yours to spend as you wish. Day 11 Enjoy a private guided tour of the
archaeological site at Delos, the
Day 10 You’ll travel by ferry to Mykonos.
Day 10 Enjoy a guided tour of the small island off the coast of Mykonos.
Spend the evening learning cooking
archaeological site at Delos, an
techniques at the home of an island
island close to Mykonos. Day 12 Today will be yours to spend as you
resident. wish, visiting the island’s beaches or
Day 11 Spend the day exploring Mykonos in swimming in the Aegean Sea.
Day 11 Enjoy a private guided trip to Delos
your own time.
and tour the archaeological site. Day 13 You’ll be met by your driver and
Day 12 You’ll meet your driver this morning taken to the airport for your
Day 12 Your driver will take you to the
for a transfer to the airport and your onward flight.
airport to catch your onward flight.
onward flight.

www.audleytravel.com/greece • 01993 683 645 • Greece 15


Cyprus
N eolithic settlements, the remnants of mighty kingdoms, fine Roman mosaics
and the birthplace of Greek gods… you can trace the history of the Mediterranean across
Cyprus’s shores. Between the island’s archaeological sites, you’ll find vineyard-scattered valleys, villages
set in pine forests and relaxed coastal towns where families eat alfresco at meze-laden tables. Our
specialists have explored the country from the painted medieval churches and forests of the Troodos
Massif to the palm-lined promenades, Byzantine forts and long sandy bays of the coast. They can help
you cruise the aquamarine waters off Limassol’s coast at sunset, try your hand at beekeeping in the
Troodos Mountains, and sample wine at a family-run vineyard near Omodos. You could hike among the
alpine forests, meet artisans crafting traditional lace and embroidery, stroll Limassol’s old town or
explore the ruined city of Ancient Kourion.

Audley in Cyprus Accommodation to ensure properties offer plenty of comfort and


amenities for longer stays. Many hotels cater
You could easily while away your time in Cyprus The majority of hotels in Cyprus are medium to especially well to families, with dedicated facilities
strolling along a golden-sand beach or enjoying large resorts offering plentiful facilities, spacious and services for children. Others are adults-only
leisurely meals of fresh seafood. But, for a deeper grounds, multiple restaurants and a wide variety and focus on providing rest and relaxation.
insight into the country’s rich history and culture, of room types. Coastal locations are the most
our guided activities will help you unfold the popular as you can take advantage of sea views
stories told in Paphos’s Roman mosaics, lead you and beach access from your resort. Other
through rock-carved burial tombs or sample options include staying in more characterful
fruits in a family-owned orchard. We’ve hand- properties in the island’s mountainous interior,
picked our experiences to show you the many where you’re more likely to experience authentic
facets of Cypriot life, whether you’re interested Cypriot culture. We select resorts that offer a
in trying your hand at basket weaving, lunching high degree of service and personal attention,
on locally made cheeses in a traditional rural despite their larger size. Many visitors to Cyprus
village or taking a private guided hike in the opt to stay in one location rather than hopping
shadow of Mount Olympus. around the island to different hotels, so we work
Four Seasons Hotel, Limassol

16
Limassol
Perched on a sweep of golden-sand beach,
Limassol lies on the southern coast of
Cyprus, facing a large natural bay. This
strategic position has been exploited for
millennia and there’s a wealth of history for
you to explore, including Greco-Roman Mediterranean Sea
ruins, a thriving old town and the castle
where Richard the Lionheart married
Berengaria of Navarre, which still makes up
the core of the old town. Surrounding that,
you’ll find the Old Port’s narrow streets lined
with traditional artisans’ workshops as well
NICOSIA
as modern cafes and boutiques. You’ll also
come across ornately decorated churches CYPRUS
Polis 3
and cobbled alleyways hiding tavernas. A ains
s Mount
wide palm-lined promenade follows the Troodo Larnaca
Tomb of the 5
coastline away from the Old Port, dotted 2
Kings
with more cafes as well as sea-facing benches Paphos
Paphos 1
so you can admire the view. The coastline Archaeological
Park Limassol
Pissouri 4 0 20 miles
east of the city leads to the nearby town of
0 32 kilometres
Agios Tychonas, which, due to its long Blue
Flag beach, collection of luxurious hotels and
seafood restaurants, is a pleasant base from
which to explore.

Four Seasons Hotel, 1 Limassol 5 Omodos


Limassol Limassol’s old quarter bustles You can sample a range of
A luxury hotel overlooking the sea from its
with boutiques, tavernas and Cypriot vintages in the
position on the coast, the Four Seasons
churches, which surround its vineyards that surround this
Hotel offers elegant rooms, a central
medieval castle. wine-producing village.
location and a wealth of amenities. The 301
See this page
rooms and suites are spacious and stylish,
with floor-to-ceiling windows to make the 2 Paphos
most of its waterfront location. You can take This scenic coastal city is a Omodos, Troodos foothills
advantage of the beach, or plunge into one UNESCO World Heritage Site,
3 Troodos Mountains
of the three pools, including a generous with a rich history dating back
These rocky peaks shelter
family pool with water slide and an adults- to the Neolithic period.
pine-scented hiking trails,
only infinity pool. The five eateries serve a See page 18
traditional villages, and medieval
range of cuisines, from Asian fusion to
painted monasteries.
Mediterranean. You can also spend time
See page 18
relaxing at the spa, which boasts a large
menu of treatments as well as a sauna, steam 4 Ancient Kourion
room and ice room. Kourion Archaeological Park’s
well-preserved ruins are
Artisan tour with brunch perched on a bluff with
panoramic sea views.
While Cyprus has grown as a destination for Paphos Traditional lace making
visitors seeking sun, sand and sea, if you
delve deeper, you’ll find many of its traditions
remain intact. This private tour gives you an
authentic look at some of these customs.
You’ll head inland to a small village to visit
artisans and hear how they came to make a
living from their lace making craft. Here,
you’ll likely see local women making lace in
the street while chatting together, and your
guide will tell you more about the history
and technique behind the artistry. It’s also an
opportunity to glimpse the traditional way of
life in this rural part of the island. You’ll then
visit what was once a local basket-weaver’s
house, now a museum and workshop, where
you’ll have a chance to try weaving your own
basket before sitting down to a brunch that
includes freshly made local cheeses.
Kourion Archaeological Park

www.audleytravel.com/cyprus • 01993 683 230 • Cyprus 17


Paphos Castle, Paphos

Paphos Annabelle, Paphos


Cyprus’s grande dame, Annabelle is an island
Steeped in history and mythology, Paphos dates institution that combines a seafront location and
to Neolithic times and the whole city is a attentive service with indulgent amenities and
UNESCO World Heritage Site thanks to its opulent rooms. The property sits in well-
many ruins and the antiquities unearthed in this manicured gardens right on the water, providing
area over the years, from Roman mosaics to a quiet retreat, yet Paphos is just a five-minute
underground tombs. Located on Cyprus’s walk along the seafront. The 244 spacious rooms
southwest coast, the city comprises two towns are decorated in a classic contemporary style,
that were united in the 1970s. While Nea Paphos and some boast Jacuzzis or private pools. You
(New Paphos) is where you’ll find a modern can avail yourself of outdoor pools surrounded
Roman mosaic, Paphos Archaeological Park
marina, and hotels, shops, cafes and restaurants, by leafy palm trees and a tennis court as well as
there’s also a medieval castle and Paphos Paphos Archaeological park the spa, which includes an indoor pool, sauna,
Archaeological Park. Meanwhile, in less- hammam and gym.
developed Ktima, traditional stone houses line Considered the most important ancient site in
narrow streets while neoclassical government Cyprus, Paphos Archaeological Park was Anassa Hotel, Polis
buildings stand proudly in the main square. You declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in One of the most indulgent options in Cyprus,
can balance beach relaxation in nearby Coral Bay 1980. Within it, you can see the remnants of a Anassa Hotel is a complex of gleaming white
with a deep dive into the area’s past. See the once-important ancient Greek and Roman city, buildings set into cypress-covered hills and
Tomb of the Kings, an underground necropolis, and, as you spend time wandering around its stretching along a pristine length of golden-sand
and visit a 12th-century temple dedicated to the sun-baked stones, you’re transported back to beach near the small town of Polis. The hotel
Greek goddess of love, Aphrodite, at the site these times of prosperity. You’ll head to the park offers exceptional facilities, thoughtful attention
where it’s believed she landed from the sea. with a private guide, who’ll explain the history to detail, and 166 well-appointed rooms and
behind the ruins. Among them are four Roman suites. Families and couples alike can enjoy a
villas with astonishingly well-preserved mosaics, wealth of amenities, including private pools, an
asclepions (ancient Greek healing temples) and a opulent spa and four gourmet restaurants.
Hellenistic-Roman theatre. After your visit, your Flower-lined paths stretch right down to the
driver will take you a short distance to a nearby coast, where you can relax on a swathe of sandy
necropolis, where you’ll see 4th-century BC beach lined with loungers. If you want to get a
burial tombs carved into the rock. Some are little more active, the hotel can arrange a wide
decorated with huge Doric pillars – the resting range of activities – hiking, cycling, catamaran
place of aristocrats and government officials. cruises and wine tasting, to name a few.
St Nicholas Church, Paphos

18
Suggested itinerary
Tailoring your trip
The itinerary shown is designed to give you an
idea of what’s possible, and includes a route that
works particularly well. We can use it as a basis
to plan your trip or can design a completely
Anassa Hotel, near Paphos different itinerary to suit your tastes and Troodos
Mountains
interests. Please call one of our Cyprus specialists
to start planning your itinerary.
Paphos
T 01993 683 230 Limassol

Getting around
Cyprus has two main international airports for
arrivals into the country – Paphos and Larnaca.
We can arrange for you to travel around the Cyprus Mountains &
island by private vehicle and driver, but self- Beach Break
driving is also an option. Cyprus is a small island, Get to know Cyprus beyond the sandy beaches
Kykkos Monastery, Troodos Mountains
and you can drive across it in two to three hours. on this seven-night itinerary. You’ll explore
While many resorts are self-contained, others archaeological sites, meet artisans and visit
are located within walking distance of towns. traditional mountainside villages, before spending
Taxis are readily available throughout the main a few days lazing by the beach and pool.
coastal areas and are generally safe and reliable.
Day 1 Arriving at Paphos International
The Green Line is a buffer zone that divides the
Airport, you’ll be met by your
Turkish Cypriot north with the Greek Cypriot private driver and taken to your
south, with several crossing points along its hotel. The rest of the day is yours to
length. We’ve focused on the south of the settle in and relax.
island, but you can cross into the north as often Day 2 Spend the morning with a local
as you wish. beekeeper, learning about the
Moutoullas importance of honey production in
When to go the Troodos Mountains. In the
afternoon, take a walking tour of a
Troodos Mountains Troodos village and visit a UNESCO-
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
The forest-covered Troodos Mountains ripple protected monastery.
3 3 33 33 33 33 3 3 33 33 33 3
through central Cyprus, dominated by Mount Day 3 Leave the mountains and head to
33 The best time to travel.
Olympus, the country’s highest peak. The your beachside hotel, where you’ll
3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
rugged seclusion of the villages that cling to stay the next five nights.
Blessed with a sunny Mediterranean climate,
the valley walls have long protected their Day 4 You have the whole day to spend as
Cyprus can be a year-round destination, you please, perhaps relaxing on the
exquisitely painted churches and monasteries
depending on where you want to go and what beaches, lazing by the pool or
from invading forces – ten of which are now
you’d like to do. If you’re looking to combine a exploring more of the area.
UNESCO World Heritage Sites. In summer,
beach stay with cultural exploration or more Day 5 Enjoy a privately guided tour of the
there are hiking trails and panoramic picnic
active pursuits, we suggest May, June, September local highlights. Start at the
spots to enjoy, while in winter, ski trails open
and October. During these months, the archaeological site of Ancient
on the flanks of Mount Olympus. Traditional
temperatures are warm enough for swimming, Kourion. Then stroll through
Cypriot ways of life continue here, with many Limassol to visit the old town and
but not uncomfortably hot. Also, the crowds are
villages concentrating on a particular skill or castle. Finally, head inland to the
much thinner, so it’s easier to enjoy both the
delicacy, including halloumi, wine and lace. wine village of Omodos, where you
sand and the sights. When the mercury rises in can visit a local winery and taste
Casale Panayiotis July and August, the beaches are busy with some of its wines.
Nestled in the Troodos Mountains, Casale sunseekers, while the island’s mountainous Day 6 Cypriot artisanal traditions have
Panayiotis is a boutique spa hotel. Its 41 interior is cooler. During the winter months from been passed down through
rooms and suites are scattered through November to March, you can expect mild generations, and today you’ll visit
weather and sunny skies. some local craftspeople. Start in the
various stone buildings that were once houses
village of Lefkara, known for its lace
and shops. They’ve been lovingly restored, Time difference: GMT +2 hours and embroidery, and then head to a
preserving their original rustic character while local basket weaver’s house to learn
still offering impeccable service and modern Prices about the craft. Finally, enjoy brunch
luxuries, and no matter where you stay, you’ll with freshly made local cheeses.
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
enjoy views of the surrounding mountains. Day 7 On your last day, enjoy some final
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
The three restaurants and cafe serve exploration on your own, or simply
for your trip to Cyprus on our website, relax by the beach or pool.
variations on traditional local cuisine, and
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
much of the food is grown locally. You can Day 8 A private driver will take you to the
your plans.
also take advantage of the spa, equipped with airport for your departing flight.
an indoor hydrotherapy pool.

www.audleytravel.com/cyprus • 01993 683 230 • Cyprus 19


Turkey
G eographically and historically spanning the gap between Europe and the Middle East,
Turkey’s vast land mass contains a striking diversity of history, landscapes and experiences.
Occupied by different dynasties throughout the ages, from the Hittites to Alexander the Great’s
Macedonia, the Roman Empire to the Ottomans; Turkey’s rich cultural legacy is evident in the sheer
number of ancient cities and monuments spread throughout the land. Cultural treasures such as the
glorious ruins of Ephesus and Pergamon abound, while mosques of exquisite beauty jostle for space
with churches, vibrant bazaars and local teahouses. Turkey’s landscape serves as an equally remarkable
backdrop to the country’s cultural inheritance. With an outstandingly beautiful coastline on the
Mediterranean Sea, soaring mountains, deep forests, and an extraordinary landscape of bizarre
formations and fairytale-esque cave villages in Cappadocia, the scenery matches its history for variety.
Whether you’ll be learning Greek mythology as you explore ancient temples, lazing on a sun-drenched
Mediterranean beach, hiking through fairy chimneys or haggling in the Grand Bazaar, you will experience
the friendly hospitality, splendid cuisine and laid-back atmosphere that infuses the country.

Audley in Turkey 0 100 miles


BULGARIA
We can arrange culture-focused trips,
0 161 kilometres Black Sea
GEORGIA
longer overland explorations, coastal breaks 4 7
or a mixture of all of these. In addition to Gallipoli Istanbul
Peninsula
visiting the most famous sites, we are able to ARMENIA
offer more unique, local experiences such Canakkale
ANKARA
as wine tasting in a vineyard or a cookery
Pergamon
lesson in a family home, to help you get 1
TURKEY IRAN
Alacati Cappadocia
under the skin of the country. We work Ephesus Pamukkale
with a selection of excellent private guides Sirince 3 Konya
and drivers who accompany you on your Bodrum 5 Aphrodisias 6
Antalya
journeys and excursions, and who give you IRAQ

the flexibility to try to avoid the worst of the Kalkan Cirali


GREECE Tu
r qu
oise C
Kas
crowds that are an inevitable part of visiting 2
oast
SYRIA
the more famous sites such as Ephesus. Mediterranean Sea
Due to the country’s enormous size, we CYPRUS
recommend travelling from place to place LEBANON
by both private car and driver and, for the
larger distances, domestic flights.
While some overland journeys offer
opportunities to travel through exceptional 1 Hot air ballooning 3 Ephesus 6 Konya
scenery and visit picturesque villages, in Cappadocia Be amazed by the scale and Turkey’s most conservative city
others are best done by plane to maximise Float above Cappadocia’s beauty of the ruins of this is home to the spiritual order of
your time in each place. remarkable formations and striking ancient city. the whirling dervishes.
watch the vibrant colours See page 27 See page 31
Accommodation emerge as the sun rises.
4 The neighbourhoods 7 People watching in
Turkey has an excellent selection of See pages 32-33
of Istanbul the Grand Bazaar
characterful accommodation, from 2 Turquoise Coast Explore this fascinating city as Watch the hustle and bustle
guesthouses to cave hotels or stylish, Azure seas and golden bays; the locals see it and discover of the famous Grand Bazaar
modern properties. All are beautifully the Turquoise Coast is a the highlights of its unique unfurl while sipping Turkish
decorated; Turkish design is notably beautiful Mediterranean retreat. neighbourhoods. coffee or sampling homemade
excellent and will be evident wherever you See pages 28-29 See pages 22-23 meatballs with the locals.
stay. We have chosen the best of these See page 22
5 Aphrodisias
boutique properties and can recommend a
Enormous and largely Food & drink
range from simple and traditional through
unexcavated, these magnificent Turkish cuisine is superb,
to luxurious, all with excellent standards of
ruins sit amid the mountains, replete with fresh ingredients;
service. Istanbul and the Bodrum Peninsula
with its most intricate its wine an excellent and
in particular also have a good selection of
artefacts displayed in an growing industry; and its tea
international hotels which vary from simple
excellent museum. and coffee a national pastime.
through to opulent, and these tend to
See page 30
have a greater range of facilities.

Boats off the Turquoise Coast

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey 21


Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet

Istanbul Sultanahmet
Istanbul: a city of spires and bazaars, of Architect Istanbul’s Old City, Sultanahmet is home to the
sumptuously beautiful mosques and palaces, of Mimar Sinan greatest concentration of significant mosques,
delectable cuisine, coffee houses and a palpable palaces, churches and monuments in the city.
assortment of cultures. Its strategic position on Born in 1490, Mimar Sinan is The area and its surrounds form the basis of
the shores of the Bosphorus which connects the considered Turkey’s greatest architect Istanbul’s famously beautiful skyline, which
Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea, made it hotly and his contributions to Istanbul, in encompasses the Topkapi Palace grounds,
sought after for centuries, and over the years particular, are astounding. The son of Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. The vibrant
Greeks, Persians, Romans and Ottomans have a stonemason, Sinan was trained as a Grand Bazaar and Spice Market are also situated
each invaded and made Istanbul their own. military engineer, where he rose to in this vicinity, as well as some of the city’s most
the rank of Janissary commander. attractive mosques and churches such as
It was first established as Byzantium in 657 BC Here he refined his style and talent in Suleymaniye Mosque and, nearby, the Chora
by Greek settlers, was renamed Constantinople both engineering and architecture, (Kariye) Church Museum. Characterised by busy,
in 330 AD in honour of the Roman emperor constructing fortifications and bustling streets overflowing with restaurants and
Constantine the Great, then became Istanbul military infrastructure. cafes, Sultanahmet is a must-visit area of Istanbul.
under the Ottoman Empire from 1453,
although it was not officially renamed until 1930. At the age of 50, Sinan was appointed
Royal Architect under Sultan Suleyman Levni Hotel, Istanbul
Each empire left an indelible stamp on the city
the Magnificent, a position which he One of the best-located hotels in the Old City,
and today Istanbul has an unparalleled cultural
held throughout the reigns of sultans the Levni Hotel is within a five to ten minute
legacy, evident in the sheer number of mosques,
Selim II and Murad III also. Sinan’s walk from Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and the
churches, monuments and palaces.
subsequent buildings, which number Blue Mosque, with a tram station just at the end
The city is also home to a thriving cafe culture over 300 across the whole of Turkey, of the road. Its 75 rooms are elegantly decorated
amid its smaller, labyrinthine streets, and each now dominate the skyline of Istanbul, with attractive artwork throughout, and guests
of the numerous districts has its own distinct the most famous of which are the can make use of the hotel’s spa, hammam,
character. Among our favourite areas to explore Suleymaniye and Sehzade Mosques, swimming pool and fitness centre during their
are Sultanahmet, Karakoy and Galata. both exceptional in beauty and design. stay. The hotel has a choice of restaurants but
its central location means that any number of
excellent eateries are within walking distance.

22
Levni Hotel, Istanbul View of Karakoy, Istanbul

Interior of the Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet

Simit seller, Istanbul The House Hotel Karakoy, Istanbul

Karakoy The House Hotel Karakoy,


Istanbul
A locals' district, Karakoy runs from the foot of
One of four hotels in the excellent Istanbul chain
Galata Bridge along the Bosphorus. In the
‘The House Hotel’, The House Hotel Karakoy is
summer its views are blocked by endless cruise
located in an ancient bank and still has a number
ships nestled in the port, but it is an excellent
of old-fashioned vaults, one of which is now the
place to visit for fresh fish meals or street food.
hotel’s wine cellar. The building has been
Karakoy also has a thriving coffee culture, with
restored but original features retained and
a maze-like area of narrow alleyways which
Istiklal Street, Istanbul embellished with touches of modern luxury
overflow with quirky, independent coffee
throughout. Some of the 63 rooms are on the
houses, boutiques and tiny galleries. The Kilic
Istiklal Street & surrounds small side but are beautifully decorated with
Ali Pasa mosque complex is situated just on the
wooden floors and classic, high ceilings. Service
Leading from Galata to Taksim Square, Istiklal outskirts of the Karakoy area, and close by is the
is impeccable, and the hotel is perfectly located
Street is a busy shopping street lined by a mix Istanbul Modern on the shores of the Bosphorus,
at the foot of the sweeping Camondo Stairs,
of designer stores, food stalls and art galleries. which is highly recommended for those
which lead up into lively Galata.
This area is especially lively in the evenings, and interested in modern art. In the 19 th century,
the plentiful small streets which lead off from Karakoy was the centre of Istanbul’s prosperous Four Seasons Hotel,
Istiklal are replete with bars and restaurants. banking industry, and Bankalar Street is now a Istanbul at the Bosphorus
An old-fashioned, 19 th-century tram runs up and fascinating place to visit for the ancient vaults still The epitome of luxury, the Four Seasons is set
down the street while a short funicular railway, present in some of its buildings, most notably within a 19 th-century Ottoman palace occupying
the Tunel, can take passengers up the steep the SALT Galata museum. an enormous stretch along the Bosphorus, with
incline from the Bosphorus. At the bottom of prime views across to the Asian side. Its beautiful
Istiklal Street is Galata, a fairly small district, grounds include two private piers, an outdoor
whose steep streets are filled with cafes, swimming pool and cafe, as well as terraces for
jewellery boutiques and musical instrument the hotel’s main restaurant and lounges. The
shops. Galata Tower offers excellent views across attention to detail throughout the hotel is
the Golden Horn, a major inlet of the Bosphorus, exceptional and the decor is exquisite. Each of
to Sultanahmet. Close by lies the laid-back, the 186 rooms and suites is spacious, with
bohemian area of Cukurcuma, which has an excellent in-room facilities.
abundance of kitsch antique shops set within
ancient houses, and whose streets are steep
and winding, relaxed, and great to explore.
Four Seasons Hotel, Istanbul at the Bosphorus

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey 23


Temple of Trajan, the acropolis at Pergamon

Canakkale
Gallipoli & the Located in a key position on the narrowest point
battlefields of the Dardanelles, the stretch of water which
connects the Sea of Marmara with the Aegean
The name Gallipoli will forever be Sea, Canakkale is a relatively small town which
synonymous with the horrors that is mainly used as a stopover point to visit the
occurred here during WWI, during the Gallipoli Peninsula battlefield monuments on the
Allied forces’ campaign to gain control opposite shore. Canakkale itself is pleasant and a
of the Dardanelles. Following a failed couple of hours can be spent exploring the town,
naval attack, troops from Britain, including its attractive waterfront promenade
The theatre and acropolis, Pergamon
France, Australia, New Zealand, Egypt and enormous wooden Trojan horse sculpture;
and Malta were drafted in to clear the a remnant from the 2004 film Troy. Clustered
Gallipoli Peninsula and the Dardanelles Pergamon
around the main square and a five-storey
so that the navy could progress through Ottoman tower are numerous restaurants, while Once one of the richest and most powerful
to Constantinople (Istanbul). the striking Cimenlik Fortress, built by Sultan settlements in the Middle East, the beauty and
Landings began on April 25th 1915, Mehmet the Conqueror during the 15th century, cultural importance of Pergamon are still evident
and months of intense fighting in now contains a Military Museum. Further south today in the impressive mountainside acropolis
horrendous conditions ensued. Bad of Canakkale lie the ruins of the famous city of and the Asclepion, a fascinating ancient medical
weather, the rugged terrain of the Troy, which can be visited as part of a day trip. centre. In its heyday, Pergamon was a prominent
peninsula, unsuitable landing spots and cultural hub which briefly rose to the status of
the exceptional leadership of capital of the Roman Empire in Asia. Sadly, much
Lieutenant-Colonel Mustafa Kemal of the structures excavated from the acropolis
(who later became the first President are now to be found in the Berlin Museum, but
of the Republic of Turkey), all combined that which is left, including the marble-columned
to ensure an Allied defeat. Both sides Temple of Trajan and a hillside theatre, is still a
suffered heavy losses and deaths are spectacular sight. The Asclepion is perhaps less
estimated to have reached 100,000. grand in appearance but better preserved. It was
once a renowned medical foundation, where one
of the greatest early physicians studied, whose
medical knowledge and research continued to
influence doctors until well into the 16th century.
Fishermen in the harbour, Canakkale

24
Mosaic depicting the kidnapping of Europa by Zeus

Mythology
Throughout Turkey’s long history, belief Athena/Minerva
systems have been altered several times. Athena, the goddess of wisdom, courage,
Today, the country is secular but with a justice and war strategy, was born from the
predominantly Muslim population, although head of Zeus fully armed, shouting a war cry
there are also large numbers of Christians, into the sky. She is the child of Zeus and
Levantines and Jews. In ancient times, Metis, but upon her conception Zeus
however, Turkey was subject to a large swallowed Metis, having heard that the child
period of Hellenization which introduced born of Metis would be even more powerful
Greek language and culture, followed by a than himself. When Zeus became full of pain
long stretch of time as part of the Roman with a headache, he asked Hephaestus, the
Empire. Both Greek and Roman mythology blacksmith god and husband to Aphrodite, to
are therefore evident throughout Turkey’s Statue of Athena, Antalya Museum cleave his head with an axe. Upon doing so,
numerous archaeological sites. Here are a Athena sprang forth. Athena became the
few of the key figures with their Greek and There are several statues of Zeus to be favourite child of Zeus, who equipped her
Roman counterpart names shown. found in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, with his shield and flaming thunderbolt.
the Antalya Museum and the Museum of
Zeus/Jupiter Places of importance within Turkey for Athena
Anatolian Civilisations in Ankara.
Zeus was the son of Cronus, and is known as include Pergamon, and a statue taken from
the father of gods and mankind alike. Cronus, Aphrodite/Venus Perge can be found in the Antalya Museum.
scared that his children would supplant him Born from sea foam, Aphrodite came into
Artemis/Diana
as he in turn supplanted his father, swallowed being following the deposing of Uranus by
The twin sister of Apollo and the daughter
any children born to his wife, Rhea. In a final Zeus’ father Cronus, who cut off Uranus’
of Zeus and Leto, Artemis is the goddess of
attempt to out-wile Cronus and save her genitals and threw them into the sea.
the moon and is also a huntress goddess.
child, when Zeus was born Rhea gave him to Aphrodite is generally accepted to be the
In certain areas, she is also seen as a goddess
a goat named Amalthea to be raised in a cave most beautiful of the goddesses and
of fertility and can be depicted as a multi-
out of the sight of Cronus. Upon reaching symbolises beauty, love and sexuality. In
breasted form. Artemis is also known for her
adulthood, Zeus overthrew his father and Anatolia, however, Aphrodite also
anger: when the mortal Actaeon boasted
gave him poison to make him vomit forth represented fertility, and it is not uncommon
that he was a better hunter than she, and
Zeus’ older siblings. Zeus then imprisoned to find multi-breasted sculptures of the
spied upon Artemis and her nymphs while
Cronus deep underground. goddess to denote this. Among Aphrodite’s
they were bathing naked, Artemis turned
children is Eros, or Cupid in Roman
Zeus’ powers include command over Actaeon into a stag as punishment. He was
mythology, whose arrows cause love to
thunder and lightning. He is known for his immediately devoured by her hounds.
grow where they fall.
frequent erotic adventures, and is the father
There is a large temple dedicated to
of many gods and goddesses, as well as There is a large and beautiful temple
Artemis to be found at Ephesus.
several mortal children. dedicated to Aphrodite at Aphrodisias.

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey 25


Sirince village

Alacati Sirince
Alacati, located on the Cesme Peninsula to the Sirince is a beautiful village set in the forested
west of Izmir, is a small but charming town with hillside, and was originally settled in the 15th
a laid-back atmosphere and some excellent century by Greeks when Ephesus was
boutique accommodation. It is just a short drive abandoned. Its traditional Ottoman houses
or cycle ride to some good beaches on the coast, probably date from the 19 th century rather than
although due to the wind these are better for the 15th, but are nevertheless very picturesque
windsurfing – for which the area is popular – Alavya, Alacati amid the winding lanes and overhanging vines.
than sunbathing. Heading inland by road, you’ll Despite being fairly busy during the day, Sirince is
find Urla Vineyard hidden amid olive groves and Alavya, Alacati quiet and sleepy in the mornings and evenings,
chilli fields. It is possible to take a tour of the An exquisite property with beautiful touches and is a lovely place to relax. The area is known
vineyard or just relax on the outdoor terrace throughout, the Alavya is located in the heart of for its olive oil, fruit and wine production, and it
with a glass of the local wine and enjoy the Alacati and offers an excellent base to both is possible to visit a vineyard or olive oil factory,
beautiful surrounds. Alternatively, the narrow, explore and relax. There are 25 rooms in six or go walking in the surrounding countryside.
cobbled streets and traditional stone buildings of traditional houses, set around a central garden
Alacati which house vintage boutiques, antique courtyard and swimming pool, while the hotel’s Gullu Konaklari, Sirince
shops, cafes and restaurants, provide an excellent restaurant borders the main pedestrian Located on the edge of the pretty Sirince village,
enjoyable base in which to relax, unwind and street. Each room is spacious and highly the Gullu Konaklari is a haven for those wanting
people watch. attractive, with homemade treats left for guests time to relax after exploring. Its 12 rooms are
to sample. Breakfast is a spread of delicious spread between an attractive mansion and a
Turkish delicacies including yoghurt, fruit, honey, more traditional stone house, separated by a
salads, breads and pastries. lovely wild olive grove garden with various
seating options. The property has a small
restaurant which serves breakfast and dinner,
with ingredients coming from their own farm.

Local market, Alacati Gullu Konaklari, Sirince

26
The Library of Celsus, Ephesus

Ephesus
Perhaps the best-preserved, most complete It was during this period that the city was at streets and the ruined structures. Even
classical city in the Mediterranean, Ephesus is its most opulent, with several exquisite though 82% is yet to be excavated, walking
a huge site with an enormous history. Dating buildings including the famed Library of Celsus through the site gives you an impression of
back as far as 1000 BC, the city first came and the Temple of Artemis, which was the the scale and importance of the city. Buildings
into prominence when it was inhabited by biggest in the world and one of the Seven are in varying states of repair: some are in
Hittites, survived through Greek settlement, Wonders of the Ancient World. The large excellent condition having been meticulously
through the Archaic, Classical and Hellenistic and grand theatre, which was initially used for reconstructed. Others are less so, but your
periods, before being invaded by the Romans dramatic performances, later became mainly guide will be able to tell you each and every
in 88 BC. It then became a decidedly Roman used for gladiatorial combats and evidence building’s purpose and origin, so that your
city and was even made capital of the Roman of a huge gladiators’ graveyard has been imagination can fill in the physical spaces.
Asia Minor in the 1st century, second in size uncovered in the city. Ephesus also had one
The sheer number of structures and ruins
and distinction only to Rome. of the most advanced aqueduct systems in
in Ephesus is astonishing; this is a great place
the ancient world, which fed a number of
to learn more about Greek and Roman
water mills in the city, one of which was
mythology. Please be warned, however, that
used for marble production.
Ephesus is exceptionally busy throughout
In 263 AD the Goths from Germany cruise season from March through to
destroyed the city. Although Emperor November. We do our best to help you
Constantine I rebuilt Ephesus during his avoid the busiest times of day but meeting
reign, and constructed several public baths, crowds at such a spectacular site is inevitable.
the city began to decline in importance. Its
deterioration was also due to the harbour
gradually filling up with silt from the river,
which meant that Ephesus could no longer
be as successful commercially. This slow
drying up of the river and harbour also
created malarial swamps, decreasing the
appeal of Ephesus as a place to live.

Today, evidence of Ephesus as it was in its


prime can still be seen in the layout of the
Entrance to the Odeon, Ephesus Relief of the winged goddess Nike, Ephesus

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey 27


Bodrum harbour

Hilton Bodrum Turkbuku Kuum Hotel, Bodrum


Resort & Spa, Bodrum The Kuum Hotel offers restful luxury in beautiful
Located just around the headland from surroundings. Unusually designed with smooth
Golturkbuku village, the Hilton has the whole bay contours and stark concrete façades, each of the
to itself. The hotel’s extensive grounds spread 60 rooms is spacious, with excellent in-room
right down to its own private beach, and contain facilities, a sea view, and a balcony or terrace as
four outdoor pools including separate ones for standard. The hotel’s underground spa is
adults and children. Facilities are excellent, fantastic, naturally lit through starlike windows in
Hilton Bodrum Turkbuku Resort & Spa, Bodrum including six à la carte restaurants serving its domed ceiling, which pokes through into the
different cuisines. The spa centre includes two garden above. Wooden decking lines the shore,
Bodrum indoor pools and a gym, and water sports can with sun loungers or luxurious cabanas for guests
be arranged direct from the beach area. Each of to soak up the sun. An outdoor bar offers
What we refer to as Bodrum is actually the
the 486 rooms is large and comfortable, with refreshments throughout the day, and the hotel’s
Bodrum Peninsula, on which is located Bodrum
attractive modern art decorating the walls. seafront restaurant serves superb cuisine.
town itself but also several smaller villages dotted
around the coastline. Sparkling azure seas Palmalife Bodrum Resort
punctuated by small Greek and Turkish islands is & Spa, Bodrum
the view from anywhere on the coast, while the With spectacular views and spacious grounds,
interior is lush and forested, with numerous the Palmalife offers a peaceful retreat. For a hotel
biking and walking trails criss-crossing the occupying such a large space, it has surprisingly
woodland. Bodrum town, although busy during few rooms with just 40, clustered around a neat,
the summer months, can be an enjoyable place grassy lawn. Most have sea views, which stretch
to visit. It has an attractive harbour and towards an undeveloped headland opposite. The
waterfront promenade lined with restaurants, Kuum Hotel, Bodrum
hotel’s highlight is its beach with sand imported
plenty of shops along its narrow lanes, as well as from the Maldives: it is hidden from view almost
an imposing castle which you can explore. The until you reach it. There is also a separate
Mediterranean is warm and pleasant to swim in, decking area over the sea. With an outdoor
and looks particularly inviting from the craggy swimming pool, a children’s mini pool, a fitness
bays and inlets which characterise this part of the centre, outdoor tennis courts and a spa, there
Turquoise Coast. However, most of the seaside are facilities for all, and water sports can also
hotels here have created their own beaches on be arranged.
which to relax and soak up the sun.
Palmalife Bodrum Resort & Spa, Bodrum

28
Windmill near Bodrum

Pretty street, Kas Boats in the bay, Cirali

Lycia Hotel, Kas the rock face. Both sites are within walking
The Lycia is a delightful property, located a short distance, or alternatively you can hire bikes from
distance out of Kas on the beautiful Cukurbag Cirali. Endangered loggerhead turtles annually
Peninsula. Surrounded by colourful bougainvillea journey to Cirali to lay their eggs on the beach,
and overlooking the Mediterranean, the hotel and are protected by the local government.
has an outdoor saltwater pool as well as a
private decking area by the sea, accessed by a
Kimera Lounge, Cirali
The expansive grounds of the Kimera Lounge are
small path, where refreshments can be ordered
brimming with fruit trees and flowering shrubs,
Lycia Hotel, Kas and delivered from the hotel. Each of the 14
overlooked by the impressive Mount Olympus.
rooms is spacious, with simple but tasteful decor
The 54 rooms are in villa style, each with its own
Kalkan & Kas and a balcony with a sea view. The outdoor
wooden terrace and named after a different type
terrace houses the hotel’s restaurant and bar,
Both Kalkan and Kas are picturesque harbour of fruit which denotes its size. These are spread
and there is a plush, covered lounge area for
towns on the aptly-named Turquoise Coast. about the garden but most surround the large
escaping the sun.
Despite having morphed from fishing villages into outdoor pool. Hidden amid the trees within the
fairly upmarket tourist towns in the mid-20 th grounds can be found different seating areas in
Cirali
century, the towns are still characterful and which to relax, or alternatively the hotel has a
enjoyable to explore. Both have varied and Hidden in a forested valley at the foot of Mount very good spa, hammam and children’s play area.
numerous dining options, and although neither Olympus lies the small, rustic village of Cirali,
town has a beach there are rocky bays or nestled in between the mountains and a long
decking from which to swim. Kas is the more stretch of beach. Cirali itself comprises about
local of the two and is also the larger, extending three dusty roads amid the trees, lined by fruit
out onto the adjacent Cukurbag Peninsula. The stalls, ramshackle shops and cafes. There are a
views from this expanse of coastline are fantastic, number of excellent boutique properties
with endless sea stretching to the horizon, scattered throughout the beachside forest which
broken only by yachts and small, forested islands. provide a tranquil retreat, perfect for returning
There is plenty to do around the Kalkan and Kas to after a day relaxing on the beach, walking in
area, with an abundance of Lycian rock tombs, the mountains or exploring the coastline. South
an ancient underwater city close by and a of Cirali is the ancient Lycian city of Olympos
plethora of outdoor activities, including walking which dates back to the 2nd century BC, and
and cycling. Taking a boat trip around the local nearby are the ‘eternal flames’ of Chimaera,
coastline and coves is highly recommended. produced by gas emissions from natural vents in
Kimera Lounge, Cirali

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey 29


Limestone terraces, Pamukkale

Hierapolis
Just as the Pamukkale terraces are popular today,
so they were in ancient times, and Hierapolis
sprang up as a thermal spa settlement to cater
for this demand in around 190 BC. Today, the
ruins are some of the most interesting to
explore, in part because of the mountainous
backdrop, but also the fascinating and very
Colonnaded street, Hierapolis well-preserved ancient necropolis (cemetery),
housing many of the aged and ill visitors who Gateway to the Temple of Aphrodite, Aphrodisias
came to Hierapolis to feel the benefits of the
Pamukkale
thermal waters. Hierapolis is also home to a large Aphrodisias
A series of striking white terraced basins Roman theatre which overlooks the valley below.
cascading down the hillside: these are the The town flourished even through the influx of A vast site which is mostly unexcavated,
limestone terraces of Pamukkale, or ‘cotton Christianity in the 4th century when various Aphrodisias is nonetheless remarkable. Its ruins
castles’ as the name means in Turkish. The town structures were converted for more Christian are to be found amid the natural landscape,
is very small, in part because the hotels which uses, until finally in the 7th century it was springing up from greenery or half-buried in the
were based here have all been moved and destroyed first by invading Persians and then dust, much as it would have been to the original
rebuilt further away, following a collaboration by a large earthquake. team who discovered the city. This is
between the Turkish government and UNESCO undoubtedly part of the appeal of visiting
to prevent overuse and pollution of the natural Aphrodisias, to see the sheer volume of ruins
thermal waters which fill the terraces. The which have been uncovered but not restored,
terraces have been created over time by hot and to imagine the scale of the ruins yet to be
springs and streams depositing carbonate discovered. At the entrance to the site is a
minerals, and while sadly the springs no longer superb museum which contains artefacts from
run through the terraces the local authorities fill Aphrodisias, displayed in a very clear manner.
certain sections at a time with water, to show The excellence of the museum is no doubt due
what the area would have looked like in its to the site being excavated by a Turkish
prime. It is a beautiful sight, especially now that archaeologist – seemingly a rarity among the
visitors are not allowed to wander freely amid main Turkish sites – so the highlights have
the terraces and must stick to a designated path. remained in the country.
The stadium, Aphrodisias

30
Whirling dervishes
Sufism is a mystical Islamic order in which
devotees perform Dikhr, a ritual act of
remembrance of God, often in a formal
Sama ceremony which can include music,
recitation, singing or even dancing. The
Mevlevi are a separate order of Sufism
whose Sama ceremony is in the form of a
mesmerising, twirling dance; hence the
name whirling dervishes. Their ceremony
Roman theatre, Aspendos begins with a musical recitation of a verse
from the Koran by a hafiz, a scholar who has
learnt the Koran by heart. This is followed
by an improvisation on a ney reed flute,
accompanied by the deep boom of a
kettledrum. The dervishes then are led
around the ceremonial hall by their master,
before removing their black cloaks as a
symbolic act of deliverance from worldly
connections. One by one, the dervishes
begin their dance, starting with their arms
folded across their chest and gradually
raising one arm to Heaven, while the other
points towards the ground. In this position
the dervishes whirl, trancelike, around the Whirling dervishes, Konya
hall in four salams which represent the
progressive journey each believer goes peace of the heart. The ceremony is
through, from recognition of God to the concluded by a final recitation from the
ecstasy of the surrender to divinity and Koran and a prayer by the dervish master.

Old Town, Antalya

Antalya Konya
Antalya is as laid-back as you might expect from A more traditional town than many, Konya is
a city on the Mediterranean with a seven famous as being the burial place of Rumi, the
kilometre beach stretching along its frontier. Its esteemed Islamic poet and philosopher and
attractive Old Town is a great place to be based, founder of the Mevlevi Order, otherwise
and exploring its narrow, cobbled streets and known as the order of the whirling dervishes.
traditional architecture is a lovely way to spend Even today, Konya is the most religiously
a few hours. conservative city in Turkey. The city’s history
dates back to 3000 BC and it was a prominent
Antalya has one of the best archaeological
settlement for several of the dynasties and
museums in the country, which complements the
empires which followed, eventually becoming
three ancient cities which lie close by: Perge,
capital of the Sultanate of Rum during the Seljuk
Aspendos, and Termessos. Around 17 kilometres
era. Konya is a fascinating blend of ancient and
to the east of Antalya is Perge, a large and
modern, with antique mosques, traditional Seljuk
comprehensive site which was once an
architecture and a maze of narrow market
important city in the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC.
streets, surrounded by the more contemporary
Aspendos, to the east of the city, has arguably university and shopping malls. The city’s centre is
Turkey’s best, most complete theatre, built focused around this market district, an important
during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius in Young woman, Konya Seljuk mosque on Alaaddin Hill (Tempesi), and
the 2nd century AD. Aspendos is surrounded by the Mevlana Museum, which attracts Muslim
mountains which makes this excellently- Puding Marina Residence, visitors from all over the world each year.
preserved theatre even more spectacular. Antalya
Located in the heart of Antalya’s Old Town, just
Termessos is slightly further from Antalya but is
a short walk from the marina, the Puding Marina
an even larger ancient city than Perge, and dates
Residence combines the tradition of the local
back to well before 333 BC, which is the first
architecture with a modern, comfortable interior.
known record of the city.
The 71 rooms are set around an inner courtyard
which contains a small outdoor pool and gym. A
restaurant is in the adjacent building and serves
local cuisine, while a small spa is located in the
main building.
Puding Marina Residence, Antalya

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey 31


Hot air balloons over Cappadocia

Cappadocia Cappadocia’s history


An otherworldly expanse of bizarre rock Cappadocia’s human history is as fascinating as its
formations, honeycomb cave dwellings and geology, and dates back to 1800 BC when the
astonishingly vivid colours: this is the landscape Hittites first settled in the area. After the fall of
of Cappadocia, an unforgettable place for anyone the Hittite Empire it became a tributary of the
who visits. Great Persian King, ruled by feudal aristocracy
until Alexander the Great’s invasion, when
The distinctive geology of the region is a result of
Cappadocia became its own kingdom. The
volcanic activity millions of years ago which
Kingdom of Cappadocia lasted several centuries
created a plateau of compressed volcanic ash,
and maintained independence during the time of
followed by intense erosion caused by rivers, rain
the Roman Empire until the death of the last
and the extremes of the Cappadocian climate.
Cappadocian king, Archelaus, when Emperor View from Argos in Cappadocia
The rock in the area is very soft beyond the
Tiberius finally reduced the region to a mere
hardened outer shell, and has been burrowed by
province. Before Christianity became an accepted Argos in Cappadocia
its human population since the area was first
religion in the area, Cappadocia was used as a A beautiful example of a series of restored cave
settled to form caves and even underground
hiding place by Christians, who excavated dwellings, the Argos is an excellent option for
cities. Today, many of these cave dwellings have
underground cities from the soft rock in which to those wanting a luxury stay in traditional
been transformed into beautiful boutique
hide. These can be visited today at the Goreme surrounds. Located below Uchisar Castle, the
properties offering luxurious accommodation
Open-Air Museum, along with numerous 53 rooms are interspersed with gardens and
even in such rustic surrounds.
examples of early churches carved into the rocks terraces on a hillside which overlooks the valley
Cappadocia is an outdoor enthusiast’s haven, and fairy chimneys, many with well-preserved towards Goreme, so throughout the grounds
offering activities of all kinds, from walking and religious murals painted on the walls. there are outstanding views. The hotel boasts an
biking through to jeep safaris and the iconic hot ancient underground tunnel and a subterranean
air balloon rides which grace so many warren which has been converted into extensive
photographs of the region. However, it is wine cellars containing, amongst others, wine
perfectly possible to experience the landscape from the hotel’s own vineyard. Many of the
in a more sedate manner also, with several ingredients for the delicious food served in the
outstanding viewpoints accessible by car. We can hotel’s restaurant come from the property’s
also arrange a visit to a local family to indulge in own kitchen gardens, and dried chillies can
some homemade cooking. often be seen hanging from a fairy chimney
within the grounds.
Mural in Goreme Open-Air Museum, Cappadocia

32
Spring landscape, Cappadocia

Handmade pottery, Cappadocia

Man tending his vineyard, Cappadocia Fairy chimneys, Cappadocia

Yunak Evleri, Cappadocia Ankara


Each of the 40 rooms of the Yunak Evleri is set
The capital of Turkey and its second largest city,
into a dramatic rock face just on the outskirts of
Ankara is actually a much lesser-known
Urgup, which once accommodated a community
destination than many other cities in the country.
living in cave houses. Photos of these previous
Despite its long history the city first came into
cave owners can be found in one of the hotel’s
prominence in 1919 when Ataturk decided to
many lounge rooms, decorated with vintage and
make Ankara his base following his victory in
traditional furnishings. In the summer, the
Turkey’s War of Independence. Since then it has
restaurant is on an outdoor terrace in front of
been developed as the country’s economic and
the main building while in the winter meals are
Cookery course in Cappadocia political centre, and although it is not the most
served inside, and throughout the year there is a
captivating of Turkey’s cities, it is nevertheless
‘help-yourself’ honesty kitchen stocked with both
soft and alcoholic drinks. Rooms are comfortably Local experiences interesting to see the financial success of the
country reflected here in the modern
furnished and each has its own balcony or in Cappadocia
architecture and thriving population. Ankara’s
terrace with excellent views towards Urgup.
Although the landscape looks fairly barren, the main attractions are within or surrounding the
volcanic soil is actually richly fertile and yields Citadel, a labyrinth of winding streets enclosed
excellent vegetables and fruit, including grapes by and spilling out of the castle walls. Close to
for Cappadocia’s thriving wine industry. Local here is the excellent Anatolian Civilisations
ingredients are therefore used in all cooking, Museum, one of Turkey’s best museums,
and villagers have passed the art of producing displaying artefacts from almost all of the main
excellent home-cooked food down through the archaeological sites in the country, dating from
generations. Spending time in a local family’s as far back as Neolithic times.
home, learning how to cook traditional meals is
an excellent way to experience rural life in
Cappadocia. Another local speciality is hand-
crafted pottery, which you can buy in the shops
Yunak Evleri, Cappadocia
of Istanbul. One of the finest pottery masters in
the country is located in the Cappadocia region,
and it is possible to visit his workshop to buy his
creations, or even take part in a pottery class
of your own while you’re here.
View to the Citadel, Ankara

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey 33


Whirling dervishes, Konya

Tailoring your trip When to go Prices


The itineraries shown are designed to give you a Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that ~ ~ 3 33 33 33 3 3 33 33 3 3 budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline
work particularly well. We can use these as a prices for your trip to Turkey on our website,
33 The best time to travel.
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
or alternatively please call our specialists to
different itinerary to suit your tastes and ~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year. discuss your plans.
interests. Please call one of our Turkey 5 Travel is not recommended.

specialists to start planning your itinerary. Although typically seen as a summer destination,
Turkey can actually be visited all year round,
T 01993 838 460
depending on where your interests lie. The
summer months from June through to
Getting around
September are very hot, with temperatures
Turkey is an enormous country so unless you reaching around 35C (95F) in the south, which
have a long time to spend here we recommend can make visiting the sites quite uncomfortable,
a combination of road journeys and domestic however this can be a good time to visit the
flights. The roads here are excellent and you are coast. Cruises operate from late March through
likely to travel through some stunning and to late October and during these months most
diverse terrain, from mountains to coastal roads sites can get extremely busy. The weather begins
to open plains. Travelling by road will be with a to cool off from late October, and November
private driver and guide, in very comfortable through to March can get quite cold, especially in
vehicles which have air conditioning. the interior such as Cappadocia. Here, the
temperature can drop below 0C (32F). Many
hotels in coastal areas close during these months.
However, despite the cool temperatures these
winter months can be the best time to explore
the sites, as they are quieter during this time.
Time difference: GMT+2 hours

Interior of the Blue Mosque, Sultanahmet

34
Suggested itineraries
bulgaria bulgaria bulgaria

Istanbul Istanbul Istanbul


turkey turkey turkey

Canakkale
Ankara

Pergamon
Alacati Izmir
Ephesus Pamukkale
Ephesus Cappadocia Cappadocia
Sirince Cappadocia
Konya Sirince
Aphrodisias
Dalaman
Antalya Antalya
Cirali
greece greece greece Kas

Grand Tour of Turkey Culture, Coast & Istanbul, Cappadocia &


A comprehensive trip allowing you to visit many Fairy Chimneys the Turquoise Coast
of Turkey’s excellent historical sites and to Discover the highlights of Turkey including This is an excellent introduction to Turkey,
explore some of the country’s staggering Istanbul, the ancient ruined cities of Ephesus allowing time in the lively capital, time to explore
landscape. You’ll also delve deeper into Turkish and Termessos, the spectacular landscape of the staggering rock formations of Cappadocia,
culture by spending time in some varied cities, Cappadocia and Turkey’s famed Turquoise Coast. and time to relax on the Turquoise Coast.
including magnificent Istanbul.
Day 1 Arrive in Istanbul. Day 1 Arrive in Istanbul.
Day 1 Arrive in Istanbul.
Day 2 Take a full day tour of the city with Day 2 Explore the city with your private
Days 2-4 Explore Istanbul with your guide, your guide, including the Blue guide, visiting the Spice Market,
including Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and the Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and
Mosque and the Spice Market. Grand Bazaar. the Rustem Pasa Mosque.
Day 5 Leave Istanbul and drive to the Day 3 Enjoy a cruise along the Bosphorus, Day 3 Continue your exploration today,
Gallipoli Peninsula to visit the see the opulence of the Dolmabahce visiting sites including the Grand
battlefields and memorials here. Palace and the enticing aromas of Bazaar and the Blue Mosque.
Day 6 Travel on to fascinating Pergamon, the Spice Market.
Day 4 Take a cruise along the Bosphorus,
before continuing to Alacati. Day 4 Fly to Izmir, then explore the then visit the Dolmabahce Palace
Day 7 Spend the day exploring pretty magnificent ancient city Ephesus. and Suleymaniye Mosque.
Alacati and its coastal surrounds. Continue on to Sirince.
Day 5 Fly to Cappadocia, then spend the
Day 8 Drive to Sirince, stopping on the Day 5 Explore the pretty countryside rest of the day relaxing amid the
way to explore Ephesus. surrounding Sirince. glorious scenery.

Day 9 Explore the vineyards of Sirince. Day 6 Return to Izmir to fly on to Antalya. Day 6 An early start to go hot air
Drive along the coast to Cirali. ballooning with the sunrise. Later,
Day 10 Drive to the striking limestone take a jeep safari through the best
terraces of Pamukkale. Day 7 Spend the day relaxing on the beach.
of the rock formations and visit the
Day 11 Explore the ruins of Hierapolis, Day 8 Another day to enjoy the ancient cave churches of the
before driving on to Aphrodisias. mountainous scenery or relax by Goreme Open Air Museum.
Continue to Antalya. the sea.
Day 7 Take part in a cookery course in a
Day 12 Visit the excellent Antalya Museum, Day 9 Return to Antalya and visit the local family home.
the ruined city of Perge and nearby excellent archaeological museum
Day 8 Fly to Dalaman then drive along
ancient theatre of Aspendos. here, as well as the ancient city of
the coast to the pretty fishing village
Perge and nearby ruined theatre
Day 13 Drive to Konya, home to the of Kas.
Aspendos.
whirling dervishes, and visit the Day 9 Time to explore the area at leisure.
Mevlana Museum. Day 10 Head into the Taurus Mountains to
visit the ruined city of Termessos, Day 10 Enjoy the stunning Turquoise
Day 14 Journey on to Cappadocia, stopping perched on the mountainside. Coast scenery.
at Kaymakli underground city.
Day 11 Fly to Cappadocia and spend the Day 11 A final day to relax by the sea.
Day 15 Embark on a sunrise hot air rest of the day enjoying the
ballooning trip. Visit the Goreme Day 12 Return to Dalaman to connect with
landscape. In the evening, watch a
Open-Air Museum, then take a your international flight via Istanbul.
whirling dervish ceremony.
jeep safari to see the best views in
the area. Day 12 Get up early to go hot air ballooning Stay longer
at sunrise. Later, embark on a jeep You can extend your trip with more time to
Day 16 Take part in a local cookery course. safari and explore the excellent explore fascinating Istanbul, or alternatively fly
In the evening, watch a whirling Goreme Open-Air Museum. west from Kas to visit some of Turkey’s ancient
dervish ceremony.
Day 13 Take part in a local cookery course. ruined cities such as Ephesus and Pergamon.
Day 17 Drive to Ankara and visit the
Anatolian Civilizations Museum. Day 14 Fly back to Istanbul, ready for your
return flight.
Day 18 Fly back to Istanbul in time for your
return flight.

www.audleytravel.com/turkey • 01993 838 460 • Turkey 35


Croatia
W ith a succession of unspoiled islands trailing one of the Mediterranean’s most
reliably sunny coastlines, Croatia is initially reminiscent of Greece. Look closer, and you’ll find
that it has a rich cultural legacy all of its own. The fortified towns along the Adriatic coastline hint at
Italy in their Venetian mansions and, in Split, you’ll find a Roman palace built for Emperor Diocletian.
Added to this are the canyons and waterfalls of the Dinaric Alps, and exceptionally clear turquoise
waters. It’s a country scattered with a range of historic settlements, from Zagreb’s energetic streets to
Dubrovnik’s intact walls and the traditional villages of the Dalmatian islands. Their architectural
wonders include Roman amphitheatres, Venetian architecture, palaces, early Slavic churches and Art
Deco townhouses. Away from the azure waters of the coast, you’ll find craggy peaks, river canyons and
national parks laden with waterfalls and birdlife. Further inland are the fertile farmlands which fuel
Croatia’s gourmet food producers. The landscape is ripe for active exploration, including
hiking, biking and sailing, or we can direct you to the best beaches on the
country’s 1,000 islands.

AUSTRIA
Audley in Croatia
HUNGARY
Blessed with historic cities, tranquil islands
and rugged mountains, Croatia offers visitors
ITALY
a wide variety of attractions and a diverse LJUBLJANA
array of ways to enjoy them. Our specialists
SLOVENIA
have carefully chosen a range of activities to ZAGREB
help bring you closer to the real Croatia and Trieste
its people, from guided city walks to
island-hopping kayak adventures and trips to CROATIA
Opatija
locally run wineries and speciality food
ISTRIA
producers. You can bike through Brijuni Rovinj
1 Plitvice Lakes
National Park, take a boat tour around Brijuni
National Pula National Park

Bracˇ Island, a guided walk of the Diocletian Park 2


0 50 miles
Palace in Split, discover Game of Thrones
Pag 0 80 kilometres
locations in Dubrovnik or even take a day
trip to Slovenia’s Lake Bled. Whatever your
interests, we’ll help you gain a deeper
Zadar Krka BOSNIA -
understanding of life in the country. National Park HERZEGOVINA

Accommodation
Šibenik
From classically styled heritage buildings to
Trogir Split
Ad

sleek, designer decor on the Adriatic coast, Omiš


ria

Šolta
Croatia boasts a wealth of options when Brač
Mostar
tic

you’re choosing a place to stay. Our Vis Hvar 3


Se

specialists have carefully hand-picked a PELJEŠAC


a

PENINSULA
Biševo
selection of hotels among the country’s Korcula
MONTENEGRO
many historic buildings, countless islands and Mljet 4
verdant hills so we can recommend anything Dubrovnik
from medieval houses with modern design Kotor
Konavle
to restored 1930s villas, Modernist Valley
waterfront classics or deluxe chalets in the
heart of lush national parks. We can suggest
something to suit all tastes and budgets,
1 Istria Peninsula 4 Dubrovnik’s city walls
whether you dream of bedding down in a
A gourmet hub and home to Walk the 13th-century city walls
17th-century Baroque palace in Dubrovnik, a
Roman ruins and Byzantine art, for sweeping views of the old
historic merchant’s house in Korcˇula or a
against a backdrop of olive town and seafront.
secluded mansion where you can relax in
groves and hilltop towns. See page 44
flower-filled gardens by the sea.
See page 38
Historical cities
Plitvice Lakes National Park
2 Waterfalls of Plitvice From Diocletian’s Palace in
Lakes National Park 3 Hvar Split to Zadar’s Byzantine
Sixteen crystalline lakes set in Gothic and Renaissance palaces, architecture, central Croatia
forestland and linked by a series quiet coves, crystalline waters offers a wealth of historical
of waterfalls in Croatia’s most and some of Croatia’s best sites.
popular national park. wineries on this Adriatic island.
See page 42 See page 42

www.audleytravel.com/croatia • 01993 683 311 • Croatia 37


Hilltop town of Motovun, Istria

Istria Split
With a reputation for its olive oils, wines and One of the Mediterranean’s most endearing
truffles, Istria has plenty of gastro-credentials, cities, Split marries tradition with cosmopolitan
but that’s just for starters. At times, this exuberance. It’s Croatia’s second largest city, and
northwest region feels more Italian than Croatian home to the Diocletian Palace, a 1,700-year-old
and plays host to Italianesque ports left over UNESCO World Heritage Site. Backed by
from its time under the Venetian Republic, along mountains and looking out over the turquoise
with a string of bucolic islands and one of the Adriatic, Split’s setting is equally impressive. With
best-preserved Roman amphitheatres still a string of nearby islands to explore, a host of
standing. You’ll also encounter UNESCO- museums, and a large forest park, there’s plenty
Roman Amphitheatre, Istria
protected Byzantine art, age-old towns and to entertain you.
castles, and vineyards reminiscent of Tuscany. Istria gourmet experience
You could explore the medieval fishing town of Heritage Hotel 19, Split
Rovinj, attend a concert in the amphitheatre in The Istrian Peninsula has long been known for its A 19 th-century townhouse formerly owned by
Pula or take a boat trip around around the coastal allure but inland you’ll find green hills the artist Veljko Bodulic´, Heritage Hotel 19 offers
forested islands of Brijuni National Park. sweeping down to fertile plains. The region has seven elegantly decorated rooms that mix
developed a reputation for its fine wines, olive original wooden beams and stone walls with
Meneghetti Wine Hotel, Bale oils, seafood and truffles, and has become a contemporary furnishings. Located on a side
Surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, forest gastronomic destination. With a guide and driver, street in Split’s Varoš district, the hotel is on the
paths, and hiking and cycling trails, the you’ll spend the day visiting some of Istria’s edge of the old town, but within reach of sights
Meneghetti Wine Hotel is a countryside estate top-rated wineries and olive oil producers, so including the Diocletian's Palace. The outdoor
designed with wine connoisseurs and food lovers you can see where the grapes and olives are cafe is an inviting place to relax in the evening.
in mind. A member of the Relais & Châteaux grown and watch the processes involved in
collection, it has 25 comfortable rooms, suites, turning them into award-winning artisanal
and multi-room residences. There are three products. As you learn about the traditions
pools, a spa, and a garden filled with involved at an olive farm, you’ll sample a variety
Mediterranean herbs. There’s also a fine dining of oils to see how subtle terrain changes
restaurant offering traditional Istrian dishes. influence their taste. On visiting family run
You’re ideally placed for taking trips to Brijuni wineries, you’ll see how they are fermented in
National Park and the cities of Rovinj and Pula terracotta urns buried underground, creating a
and the beach is just a 30-minute walk away. distinct taste with deep complexities.
Heritage Hotel 19, Split

38
Zagreb Cathedral Split skyline

Cheese for sale at a market in Rovinj

Cafe in Rovinj, Istria The Croatian National Theatre, Zagreb

Zagreb Walking tour of Zagreb Guided visit to Slovenia


Church spires, bright street art and ornately Croatia’s capital and largest city, Zagreb is the Within two hours’ drive from Zagreb, you can
windowed cafes: Zagreb is the country’s hub of the country’s political and cultural life. The be on the streets of Ljubljana, the Slovenian
cosmopolitan capital. The city sits at the foot of influence of its turbulent past can be seen all capital. This trip gives an introduction to the
Medvednica Mountain and dates back to an over the city in the varied architectural styles and country and its culture as well as a chance to see
ecclesiastical community established here in this walking tour with a guide brings this history some of its most beautiful landscapes. While the
1094. The historic core, Upper Town, is where to life. With medieval churches in the Upper largest city in Slovenia, Ljubljana is a pint-sized
you’ll find the Presidential Palace, the Sabor (the Town, Baroque Revival and Art Deco capital, its leafy green streets, refreshingly
Croatian parliament), and the city’s most townhouses in the Lower Town, as well as the relaxed atmosphere and pedestrian-only core
renowned landmark, Saint-Mark’s Church. Red country’s august state buildings, you’ll discover a making it easy to navigate on foot. With your
roofs are interspersed with church spires, while variety of architecture as well as markets, local guide, you’ll explore the old town with its
down on the street, museums and galleries vie galleries and expansive squares. mix of Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian
for attention. Zagreb expanded rapidly in the architecture. You’ll then head to nearby Lake
19 th century and the architecture of Lower Town Amadria Park Hotel Bled, set against a backdrop of the Julian Alps.
reflects the strong Austro-Hungarian influence Capital, Zagreb While here, you’ll explore Bled Castle and ride
with many neo-Baroque and Art Deco buildings Built in 1921, this heritage property on Zagreb’s on a traditional pletna, a flat-bottomed boat
lining the streets. Among the shops selling edgy pedestrian-only Jurišićeva Street was originally a propelled by a standing oarsman, to Bled Island,
fashions, eclectic bars and legions of cafes and bank. Inside, you’ll find a wealth of original the country’s most photographed site.
restaurants, look out for the Croatian National interiors, including wood panelling, decorative
Theatre, set in a late 19 th-century building, once high ceilings and antique furniture. The 112 stylish
considered the finest in the city. rooms offer a mix of Art Deco and Art Nouveau
design influences. There’s an elegant restaurant
in the bank’s former lobby showcasing local
Croatian cuisine and a bar with a citywide
reputation for inventive cocktails. There’s also a
vault in the basement with the bank’s original
security door still in place.

Amadria Park Hotel Capital, Zagreb Lake Bled, Slovenia

www.audleytravel.com/croatia • 01993 683 311 • Croatia 39


Zlatni Rat beach, Brac

Island escapes
There are more than 1,200 Croatian islands restaurants, this quiet, laid-back settlement on
scattered amid the crystal-blue waters of the the northern shore is the opposite of its
Adriatic. With such a dazzling plethora to better-known sister town. Low, boxy buildings
choose from, you’re sure to find something to crowd together in a warren of narrow streets,
suit your personal preferences. Some make punctuated with plazas where you can sit
good day trips from Split, but if you have the beneath palm trees as a respite from the
time, these islands reward deeper examination. endless sun.

You can get your bearings with a guided tour Just outside Stari Grad, you’ll find the Stari
and then spend your time visiting vineyards that Plains, a flat and fecund area that was named a
produce rare vintages, cycling through the UNESCO World Heritage Site to protect its
countryside or simply strolling through medieval 2,400-year-old agricultural system. A different
small towns, absorbing island life. crop grows in each dry-stone enclosure, known
Stari Grad, Hvar
as chora, and the effect is like a patchwork quilt
made of subtle shades of green.
Glamour & ancient fields on Hvar
An elongated island just a 90-minute ferry ride Vineyards & Venetian history
from Split, Hvar residents like to boast that on Korčula
their island has the most hours of sunlight of A little south of Hvar, Korčula is covered in
anywhere in Croatia. The claim is arguably gentle hills and lush vineyards, earning it the
spurious, but the sunny island has become a nickname the Adriatic Tuscany. The island does
magnet for celebrities, who moor their yachts resemble the Italian region, but unlike its
in glitzy Hvar town. Despite its modest size, the namesake, the local grapes are practically
island’s main town boasts a wealth of elegant unknown internationally. However, in-the-know
eateries, swanky hotels and an ebullient nightlife oenophiles flock here for a chance to enjoy
suitable for movie stars, socialites and these unusual vintages.
billionaires.
On a visit to one of the many family run
If live music and high-end restaurants don’t vineyards, you can sample Pošip, an indigenous
appeal, head to Stari Grad on the north coast. grape that creates crisp, full-bodied whites with
With medieval charm and family run notes of citrus, apples and almond. This is also
View of Korčula

40
The Cathedral of St. Stephen, Hvar

home to the vowel-challenged grk grape, a


variety that has only female flowers and
produces a dry white that hints of melons and
herbs.

At the eastern tip of the cigar-shaped island,


Korčula town offers a glimpse into Croatia’s
past. The well-preserved old town is
surrounded in formidable fortifications from
the 15th century – the towers and walls were
built to fend off pirates and remain impressive,
especially from the sea.
Street in Korčula
Within the ramparts, you’ll find marble streets
lined with Gothic and Renaissance architecture,
built when Korčula was under the protection of
the Venetian Republic. Climb to the top of Saint
Mark’s bell tower for a sweeping view of the
red-roofed houses, the battlements and the
Adriatic-blue port.

Relaxation & authentic life on Brač


A little over an hour’s ferry ride from Split, Brač
is largely overlooked by international visitors,
but it’s a popular holiday destination for
Croatians. That’s at least in part because it’s
home to Zlatni Rat, one of the country’s most
popular beaches thanks to its small, well-
rounded pebbles. Their pale golden shade,
when combined with the long, pointed shape,
gives the beach its name, which translates to
Golden Horn.

It’s located in the resort town of Bol, where


most of the locals stay when they visit.
However, we suggest staying at Sutivan –
despite being the largest town on the island, it’s
largely untouched by tourism and makes a great
base for exploring.
Solta waterfront
You can kayak in the clear blue waters, take a
guided bicycle tour, hike through the forested Get away from it all on Šolta Along the coast, you can explore busy
highlands, and visit the island’s many wineries A visit to Šolta makes an indulgent coda to a waterfront promenades and watch fishermen
and olive groves. busy Croatian trip. Though it’s just a 30-minute bring in the day’s catch. You can also take out a
catamaran ride from Split, it’s well off the kayak to admire the scenery or find a quiet
This is also home to Pučišća, one of the world’s
regular trail and offers just a few hotels and stretch of pebble beach where you have the
most prized limestone quarries and source of
guesthouses. sea views all to yourself.
the stone for Diocletian’s Palace (though
probably not for the White House, despite The best of these is Martinis Marchi Heritage The island’s interior boasts vineyards, olive
local boasts to the contrary). A guided tour of Hotel, a 300-year old castle that’s been groves and honey producers. Šolta’s oldest
the island includes a behind-the-scenes visit to a converted into luxury suites. The castle has a town, Grohote, is also home to an art gallery
school for masons, which draws students from 4x4 that you can borrow, or you can set off on dedicated to the island’s best-known artists,
far and wide to be trained in the ancient art of foot or bicycle to glimpse authentic Dalmatian painters Eugen Buktenica Đenko and Vicko
stone carving. island life in small villages around the island. Buktenica.

www.audleytravel.com/croatia • 01993 683 311 • Croatia 41


Waterfalls, Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park Hvar


The oldest and largest national park in Croatia, Known as one of Croatia’s most fashionable
Plitvice Lakes National Park is the country’s most destinations, Hvar island offers more than
popular destination. The park protects 16 shimmering blue waters and top-notch
crystalline lakes linked by a series of waterfalls restaurants. Along with its lively port town, you'll
that wind their way through forest and a find fishing villages and some of Croatia’s best
limestone karst landscape. With scenic walking, wineries. The island’s interior remains little
boat tours, great plant diversity and the presence changed since the ancient Greeks created
of endangered wildlife, the park makes an terraces for olives, grapes, and lavender. Hiking,
engaging destination on many levels. Set in the cycling or driving here gives you a sense of how it
mountainous karsts of central Croatia, the would have looked in previous centuries. Just 90
Plitvice Lakes have a scenic setting, but it was the minutes from Split by ferry, Hvar and its islands
unusual sedimentation of chalk in the forest that offer an array of secluded beaches and coves.
made this place a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
With the chalk forming travertine barriers that Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel, Hvar
grow progressively in size, the lakes are Boardwalk, Plitvice Lakes Part of the Sunčani Hvar chain, Adriana is a
separated by unusual terraces of soft rock. 62-room hotel, ideally situated on the waterfront
Winding boardwalks and footbridges meander Fenomen Plitvice, near Plitvice promenade of Hvar Town. The indoor spa and
through the park, linking the lakes and their Lakes National Park fitness area includes a canopied rooftop pool and
waterfalls in a series of scenic trails that make for Located on the edge of the UNESCO-protected bar with an outdoor terrace where you can soak
leisurely hiking with rewarding views. Plitvice Lakes National Park, Fenomen Plitvice up the Mediterranean sunshine.
ticks the boxes for a luxury stay in a scenic
setting. There’s a total of 18 one-bedroom Pakleni islands kayaking tour
studios, two-bedroom suites, and lodges, which
Explore the Pakleni Islands, a series of 16
feature large windows for views of the surrounds.
wooded islands just off the southern coast of
There’s a main restaurant for à la carte Croatian
Hvar. This guided kayaking tour of the archipelago
and international dishes, relaxing lounge, and a
hops between islands, gliding silently to isolated
spa with a Finnish sauna and Jacuzzi. Staff can
areas where you can enjoy the peace and quiet
arrange outdoor activities such as Nordic
of nature. Discover hidden coves, beaches and
walking, trekking tours, bicycle and quad rentals,
quiet lagoons, with the option to moor up and
and planting trees.
Fenomen Plitvice, near Plitvice Lakes National Park take a short hike through the woodland.

42
Active adventures
With so much coastline, kayaking is an
option almost anywhere in Croatia. In
fact, it’s the only method of getting to
some of the more remote bays, away
from busy areas that are easy to reach
on foot. Whether you choose a guided
tour or strike out on your own, they
offer an easy way to explore the
shoreline’s scenery and find your own
Coastline, Hvar little corner of the country. On the land,
hikers and cyclists will find options
ranging from short routes along flat
coastal trails to longer, more challenging
tracks up steep mountains. Adrenaline
junkies might consider white-water
rafting on the Cetina River, which offers
relatively gentle grade two and three
rapids, with lots of stops for swimming.
If you prefer a drier sort of adventure,
there are also zip-lines running from cliff
to cliff, over the river.

Medieval walls, Korčula Aloe flowers, Korčula waterfront

Korčula Tastes of Korčula Pelješac Peninsula wineries


With sandy beaches, historic towns, olive groves Explore Korčula Island through its food and drink
& Ston oysters
and vineyards, the island of Korčula is the on this tour of the island’s artisan honey, olive oil, Indulge in the gastronomy of the Dalmatian coast
quintessential Mediterranean without the wine and rakija. Meet the producers, tour their by spending the day visiting two family-run
crowds. Inhabited since Mesolithic times, Korčula farms, learn about the products and get an wineries and an oyster farm. The peninsula is
has a rich history and culture along with a insight into the history of food production on the known for some of the highest-rated red wines
well-preserved medieval town. Although the island. With a personal guide and a chance to in Croatia, due in large part to the abundant
forests that led the ancient Greeks to call it meet families that have been farming for sunshine, 45-degree hillside slopes and high
Korkyra Melaina (Black Corfu) are no longer so generations, it’s an engaging way to see a mineral content in the rock beds. With the help
dense, it’s a lush place where traditional culture traditional way of life and taste some of Croatia’s of your guide and the owners themselves, you’ll
remains strong. The long, narrow island sits just 3 finest local products. learn about the effects of the geology and
km from mainland Croatia. Its main town – which climate, the influence of local traditions and
shares its name with the island – is set on a modern processes, and the reasons why these
headland in the northeast and often referred to local products are so highly acclaimed. This is
as ‘Little Dubrovnik’, thanks to its medieval walls, followed by formal wine tasting sessions with
grand squares and Venetian palaces. While most food pairings. You’ll then meet a local oyster
visitors stick to the eastern end, there are small farmer in Mali Ston. The oysters of Mali Ston Bay
fishing villages all along the coast and great hiking are reputed to be some of the best in the world
and biking trails in the highland areas. thanks to the distinctive blend of nutrients in the
Organic honey farm, Korčula waters here.

Lešić Dimitri Palace, Korčula


An 18 th-century Bishop’s palace, this boutique
hotel in Korčula Town has had extensive
restorations. The result is five spacious
apartments that each reference a different region
from Marco Polo’s Silk Route adventures. Think
exposed stone walls, exquisite handcrafted
furniture and tasteful antiques. The hotel has a
restaurant offering Dalmatian cuisine and local
wines, a spa and use of a classic yacht.
Lesic Dimitri Palace, Korčula Oysters, Mali Ston Bay

www.audleytravel.com/croatia • 01993 683 311 • Croatia 43


Dubrovnik’s old town

Dubrovnik Guided visit to Bosnia


Renowned for the beauty of its old town,
& Herzegovina
Dubrovnik was once a powerful independent Although Bosnia and Herzegovina shares a
city-state and remains one of the best-preserved common history with much of Croatia, the
walled towns in Europe. Baroque churches sit on country has its own character. A crossroads
grand squares, shuttered townhouses line between the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian
limestone streets, and bougainvillea cascades empires for centuries, the strong influence from
down steep, narrow lanes that lead to the azure Villa Dubrovnik the east led to a rich culture which you can
waters of the Adriatic. Today, Dubrovnik explore with a local guide. Spend the day walking
stretches well beyond the city walls in a series of Villa Dubrovnik, Dubrovnik the cobbled lanes and narrow streets of Mostar
suburbs that line the coast and offer quieter Designed by Croatian architect Mladen Frka in and see its renowned bridge. You’ll also venture
places to relax than the cafe and restaurant-lined 1961 to blend into the landscape, this intimate to the nearby medieval town of Počitelj for
streets of the old town. You can walk the cliffside retreat overlooks Lokrum Island and the sweeping views over the rocky mountains and
9 th-century city walls for sweeping views across Adriatic Sea. Inside, the white marble walls set deep river valley.
the town and seafront. Tell-tale new roof tiles the tone for the minimalist theme that follows in
reveal just how much of the city had to be rebuilt 56 light-flooded rooms, all of which feature Elaphiti Islands boat tour
after the Croatian War of Independence, while modern artworks and private balconies. There’s
the 15 forts added in the 14th century Named after the Ancient Greek word for deer,
a large indoor-outdoor pool, serene spa, private
demonstrate just how long the city has defended ‘elaphos’, the Elaphiti are an archipelago of 13
rocky beach, and a gourmet restaurant.
itself from attack. islands, covered in woodland, rocky karst
Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik outcrops and the occasional lighthouse. While
Built in 1913, Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik has been the large deer populations that once roamed the
welcoming guests for over 100 years and hosted islands are gone, birds flit between the trees and
royalty including Queen Elizabeth II. Located on the clear waters teem with shellfish, lobsters and
the seafront to the east of the Old Town, it has crayfish. On this boat tour, you’ll spend the day
views across the city walls and Adriatic Sea. far from the busy streets of the mainland cities.
Every part of the hotel is designed around the Instead, you’ll explore the secluded bays and
panoramic vistas. The 158 luxurious rooms also coves, pebble beaches and translucent turquoise
make the most of the natural light and sea views. waters that dot the islands’ coastlines. Along the
A stone promenade offers access to a rocky way, your skipper will bring the archipelago to life
beach. There is also a spa and a freshwater pool. with tales of its history and inhabitants.
Hotel Excelsior, Dubrovnik

44
Suggested itineraries
Tailoring your trip
Ljubljana

The itineraries shown are designed to give you Croatia Zagreb


Bosnia- Croatia
an idea of what is possible, and are routes that Herzegovina
work particularly well. We can use these as a Split

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely


different itinerary to suit your tastes and Hvar
Zadar Bosnia-
interests. Please call one of our Croatia Korčula
Herzegovina

specialists to start planning your itinerary. Šibenik Split

T 01993 683 311 Mostar


Dubrovnik

Getting around Dubrovnik

We offer a range of modes of transport to suit


the size of your party and specific routing of your
trip, to ensure you comfortably travel around Explore the Croatia’s Cultural
Croatia. When you travel between cities, we Dalmatian Coast Highlights
typically use English-speaking private drivers. If This itinerary is an opportunity to discover Travel across mainland Croatia on this trip that
you’ll be passing sites of interest along the way, Croatia’s most well-known destinations along focuses on the rich mix of cultural experiences
we can include a local guide who can help you the Dalmatian Coast, including Split, Hvar and that can be enjoyed year-round. Historical cities,
explore en route. Short trips within cities are Dubrovnik, as well as some lesser-known awash with notable museums and architectural
easily handled by taxi though most historic towns highlights. Along the way, you’ll sample a range delights, contrast with time spent in scenic
are small enough to enjoy on foot. If you’re of the best Croatian experiences, from wine vineyards and national parks.
tasting and guided city walks to sailing and
planning to island-hop, we’ll arrange your travel
snorkeling trips. Day 1 Arrive in Dubrovnik where you’ll be
by public ferry, that offer great value and met and taken to your hotel.
comfortable, timely service between the more Day 1 Arrive in Split where you will be met
Day 2 Enjoy a walking tour of Dubrovnik,
visited destinations. If you prefer to travel on a and taken to your city hotel. See the
with stops along the city wall, at
more private basis, we can arrange your own Diocletian’s Palace on a guided
a Franciscan monastery and
skippered speedboat which can also make stops walking tour.
Lovrijenac Fortress.
for you to swim or snorkel along the way. Day 2 Visit the Kamerlengo Fortress and
Day 3 Explore the Konavle Valley. Visit the
the hidden side streets of Trogir
home of artist Vlaho Bukovac and
When to go before a short drive to Krka
take a silk embroidery workshop.
National Park’s scenic trails and
Finish with dinner in a local home.
waterfalls.
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Day 4 Visit bordering Bosnia and
3 3 3 33 33 33 3 3 33 33 3 3 Day 3 Board a speedboat to the islands of
Herzegovina to see Mostar’s
Bisevo and Vis. Snorkel and swim
33 The best time to travel. renown bridge and the medieval
around the island before continuing
3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. town of Pocitelj.
to the island of Hvar.
Croatia offers plentiful sunlight, warm Day 5 Head into the highlands to Klis
Day 4 Explore Hvar town, Stari Grad, and
temperatures and great experiences all year Fortress, a state-of-the-art museum
sample wines at a local vineyard.
experience in Sinj and stop outside
round. The summer months of June to
Day 5 Take a kayaking trip to the nearby Omiš for a cooking demonstration.
September are ideal for boating and swimming in
Pakleni Islands.
the blue waters around the islands, but the Day 6 Explore the Diocletian’s Palace on a
Day 6 Travel by ferry to the island of guided tour of Split. Afternoon to
cooler conditions of April, May and October lend
Korčula. Enjoy a tour of the walled relax or visit nearby Marjan Hill.
themselves to a wide range of other outdoor
city before boarding a 1920’s sailing
activities, from hiking to kayaking. The warmest Day 7 Visit the Salona ruins, the medieval
vessel for a sunset cruise.
city of Trogir and Kamerlengo
months are July and August, when there’s a range
Day 7 Transfer to the mainland by ferry Fortress, before a tour of Šibenik.
of open-air cultural events. In November to and drive through the Peljesac
March, Croatia’s winter, you can focus on Zagreb Day 8 Enjoy a guided walk through Krka
Peninsula on a food and drink tour,
National Park and boat ride to
or Split, when they’re at their quietest and most sampling local wine and oysters,
Visovac Island’s Franciscan
relaxed. before arriving in Dubrovnik.
monastery. Lunch at a Vizzulin
Time difference: GMT +1 hour Day 8 Guided tour of Dubrovnik and winery to sample local wines.
cable car ride up Mount Srd- for
Day 9 Visit the Sea Organ in the town of
aerial views.
Prices Zadar. Continue to Plitvice Lakes
Day 9 Day at leisure to explore the nearby National Park for a waterfall walk.
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of islands of Lokrum, stroll along Sveti
Day 10 Drive to the capital Zagreb, for a
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices Jakov Beach or relax at your hotel.
guided tour of the city and nearby
for your trip to Croatia on our website, Day 10 You’ll be driven to Dubrovnik to Mirogoj cemetery.
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss catch your onward flight.
Day 11 Head to the Slovenian capital,
your plans.
Ljubljana, and nearby Lake Bled to
visit the castle.
Day 12 You’ll be driven to Zagreb to catch
your onward flight.

www.audleytravel.com/croatia • 01993 683 311 • Croatia 45


Florence skyline

Introducing Italy
A country of outstanding natural beauty, your goal is to eat your way through the varied
sometimes described as an open-air museum regional cuisine, explore some of the finest art
and a treasure chest of art and architecture, in the world, or hike, bike and kayak the coasts
Italy is a delight to explore. Few countries in the and countryside, Audley can create your Italian
world offer such a wealth and diversity of adventure. For more information on the
attractions. You can spend your days wandering locations we offer in Italy, please request our
through the remains of Roman towns or designated Italy brochure.
marvelling at glistening mosaics in ancient
When to go
palaces. You can relax on Alpine lakes, climb
dramatic volcanoes, or linger over exquisite Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
3 3 3 33 33 33 3 3 33 33 3 3
meals while sipping fine wines. The enthusiastic
Italians welcome visitors with a passion to share 33 The best time to travel.
their love for their country and its culture. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some
factors to be aware of.
Italy’s incomparable artistic and cultural legacy,
beautiful scenery and delicious cuisine will
ensure it’s a place you will long to return to Colosseum, Rome
time and time again.
Audley in Italy
A trip to Italy with Audley reveals the best the
country has to offer. From north to south
through the ‘boot’ of Italy, Audley creates
tailor-made trips that cater to individuals’ wants
and needs. Italy is one of the most visited
countries in the world and is home to more
UNESCO World Heritage Sites than any other
country. These accolades mean the crowds can
sometimes be challenging, especially at the
most popular sites, but our guides can help you
navigate the halls of the Vatican or escape the
hordes of Venice in a private boat. Whether
Vin Santo with cantucci, Tuscany Cannoli, Palermo

46
Gondolas, Venice

1 Venice
SWITZERLAND AUSTRIA
A city of canals, Venice is best explored from
Lake the water. A private boat tour gives you a
Lake Como
Maggiore SLOVENIA
canal-level view of the Grand Canal, St Mark’s
Milan
I I I
I
I I I Verona I
Square, and Guidecca Island.
1
I I I I
Turin
I
I I I I I I I
I I I
I

I
I I I
I

I I
I I
I I

I
Venice
I

I PIEDMONT I
I
Parma 2 Tuscany
I

FRANCE I
I I

I
Santa Modena
I
I
I

I
I
I I
CROATIA Tour the Fèlsina winery before enjoying a lunch
I I

Genoa I Margherita I I Bologna


I
I II

Portofino Ligure and wine sampling that includes their


Ravenna
I

Cinque Terre Lucca


I I

MONACO Porto Venere exceptional Chianti Classico Reserva.


Florence
I

Ligurian Pisa
I
I I

I 2
I

I
San
Sea Gimignano Siena Perugia 3 Rome
I I

I I

Hop on the back of a Vespa to ride past


I

Assisi
I I

Adriatic
I
I

Orvieto
ITALY cafe-lined piazzas, major sights like the
I I
I

Sea
I
I

Corsica
I

I
Colosseum and quieter areas such as Gianicolo
I

I
3
I I

I
I
I
Hill.
I I

ROME
I

I
I
I
I
I I I
4 Positano
Bari Pompeii
Take a guided hike along the Path of the Gods,
I

Naples Vesuvius
Fasano
I
I

Ischia Matera Ostuni a cliffside route that winds through the


Sorrento Ravello Brindisi
Capri BASILICATA
Sardinia Amalfi Lecce mountains above Positano.
Tyrrhenian Sea 4 Positano
PUGLIA
Otranto
5 Sicily
Cagliari
Cannoli, arancini, pizza-like sfincione flatbread,
and granita – sample Palermo’s street food on a
0 50 miles
guided tour of the city’s ebullient market.
0 80 kilometres
Palermo
M
ed For further inspiration on exploring Italy,
it err 5
an Sicily Catania we have a dedicated Italy brochure. To
ea
nS request a copy please call 01993 683 154
ea
or go to www.audleytravel.com/brochures

Malta

www.audleytravel.com/italy • 01993 683 154 • Italy 47


Spain
A wildly romantic country that dances to a flamenco beat, Spain’s seductive
allure, diverse landscapes and creative passions have drawn visitors for centuries. It’s a country
that manages both to maintain its traditional charm while at the same time embraces the new. You’ll
find towering Gothic cathedrals, elaborate Moorish palaces, sleek modern architecture and cutting-
edge cuisine. From the avant-garde art and architecture of Dalí, Gaudí and Picasso to the striking
modern wineries that dot La Rioja, Spain has always looked to push the boundaries of contemporary
thinking. From the beaches of the Costa del Sol to the vast museum collections of Madrid and bustling
streets of Barcelona, Spain boasts incredible landscapes, complex histories and vibrant cultural
identities. As you travel from region to region you’ll come across not just one concept of Spanish
identity but many, in terms of the food, architecture and heartfelt traditions.

Audley in Spain
Our specialists can provide you with new
0 124 miles
perspectives on Spain’s must-see highlights,
0 200 kilometres
from the cosmopolitan streets of Madrid to
the sun-baked plazas of Seville. The country FRANCE
Bilbao 2
plays host to many visitors each year, but we BASQUE San Sebastián
COUNTRY ANDORRA
can suggest experiences that take you away
Pyrenees
from the crowds. We will highlight some of 3 Logroño Figueres
OCEAN

La Rioja Girona Begur

I I
Spain’s lesser-known corners and introduce Montserrat
va

I
Monastery ra

I
you to authentic everyday life. Immerse 1 B

I
SPAIN CATALONIA sta
I I I

I
I I
Co
I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I I I
Barcelona
I I
yourself in the country’s rich Moorish
TIC

I
I
I

heritage touring the Alhambra Palace in Segovia I


I
ATLAN

I
Ávila 4
Granada or the Mezquita of Cordoba. Cook I
I
MADRID
I I I I I I I I I

with a local chef in the Basque Country and PORTUGAL


learn techniques used in a Michelin-starred Toledo

kitchen, or discover the boundary-pushing Balearic


Islands
art and architecture of Barcelona, where the
I I
I

legacy of Gaudí and his contemporaries lives


I
I
I

on in the very fabric of the city. 5


I
I

Córdoba
I
I
I
I

6
I
I I I

I
ANDALUSIA
Accommodation
I

Granada 7Alhambra Palace


I
Seville
I
I I

Ronda Sierra Nevada


ea
I

At Audley we believe in offering hotels that


I

Jerez de la Frontera
I
Malaga
Marbella Costa del Sol
anS
imbue a sense of place and help you to ne
rra
understand the country. In Spain, the GIBRALTAR
e dite
options are diverse. You can spend a night in M
MOROCCO
a former Franciscan monastery within the
confines of the Alhambra Palace, relax in a
family-run hotel owned by Michelin-starred
chefs, or experience a modern wonder such
as architect Frank Gehry’s free-form 1 Gaudi’s Sagrada Família 4 Madrid’s Golden 5 Mezquita, Córdoba
Marqués de Riscal wine hotel in the Rioja. In Antoni Gaudí’s dream-like Triangle of Art One of the world’s greatest
the larger cities you can choose anything basilica is a glorious medley of A trio of outstanding galleries works of Islamic architecture
from former palaces to urbane boutique flowing organic shapes, vibrant showcasing the work of the old with an incongurous
properties offering seductive interior design mosaics and soaring towers. masters as well as more Renaissance cathedral
and local life right on your doorstep. See page 51 modern highlights such as transplanted within.
Picasso’s Guernica. See page 61
2 Eat pintxos in San
See page 55
Sebastián 6 Flamenco
Tour the city’s bars to sample Experience one of Spain’s
the best of the Basque most vibrant traditions which
Country’s signature small bites. traces its origins back to
See page 57 Seville’s Triana district.
See page 59
3 La Rioja wine region
Known for its robust reds as 7 Alhambra Palace
well as boundary-pushing A 14th-century complex
architecture and gastronomy. containing some of the finest
See page 53 Islamic buildings and gardens
in Europe.
See page 60
Generalife gardens, Alhambra Palace

www.audleytravel.com/spain • 01993 683 807 • Spain 49


Tapas bar the Gothic Quarter, Barcelona

Barcelona Hotel Omm, Barcelona


Located just off the Passeig de Gràcia, Hotel
A vibrant Mediterranean city and Catalonia’s
Omm is a modern design hotel with a distinctive
cultural capital, Barcelona is best known for its
avant-garde exterior of curved white panels.
ground-breaking art and architecture, though in
Inside you’ll find a warm and inviting lobby with
its atmospheric Gothic Quarter you’ll also find
couches, soft rugs and a concept fireplace
Roman ruins, medieval palaces and an ornate
suspended from the ceiling. Also in the hotel are
neo-Gothic fronted cathedral. You can chart
Roca Bar and the Michelin-starred Roca Moo
Picasso’s progression in his eponymous museum,
restaurant, both outposts of the multi-starred
explore contemporary Spanish art at the
Roca brothers’ acclaimed culinary empire. The
Fundació Joan Miró, or wander the streets of
sleek modern design carries through to the 91
L’Eixample to see the whimsical, organic designs
rooms decorated with muted, minimalist decor.
of Catalan Modernist Antoni Gaudí. Barcelona’s
As well as a luxurious spa, guests can also enjoy
many layers make it a joy to explore on foot;
the elegant roof terrace with a small pool and
cobblestone streets lined with independent Hotel Neri, Barcelona views of Gaudi’s renowned Casa Milà.
shops link hidden squares, tapas restaurants and
lively rooftop bars, while further out you’ll find Hotel Neri, Barcelona
spacious public parks and golden beaches. Located in the heart of Barcelona’s Gothic
Quarter, Hotel Neri is a stylish boutique
property partly housed within a medieval
palace. From the vaulted stone lobby an original,
medieval staircase leads up to the rooms.
Bright, contemporary decor tempers the heavy
historical features and creates warm and inviting
spaces throughout, including the 22 rooms with
fresh white walls and understated furnishings.
A ground-floor breakfast room opens out onto
one of Barcelona’s hidden Gothic squares and
provides outdoor seating at weekends.
Alternatively, you can relax on the hotel’s
vine-covered rooftop terrace and enjoy a
quiet evening drink.
Tapas, Barcelona Hotel Omm, Barcelona

50
Mosaic lizard, Park Güell

Casa Milá Casa Batlló

Gaudi’s Barcelona
The single most important contributor to Park Güell
Catalan Modernism, Antoni Gaudí played a Another of Gaudí’s well-known projects, Park
huge role in shaping Barcelona’s built Güell was a grand, early 20 th-century plan to
environment. A spin-off of the Art Nouveau build a new community on the outskirts of
style, Modernism combines sinuous, flowing Barcelona. Although the project was never
lines and richly decorative elements with new completed, the initial houses and landscaped
combinations of materials and influences from parkland are built in typical Gaudí style with
Catalan’s medieval age. Although Gaudí was sloping walls, mosaics and free-flowing detail.
not its only exponent, he was the most The entrance is flanked by two fairy tale-style
daring, and his works have become some of houses with brown stucco façades and curvy
the city’s most significant landmarks. Park Güell white roofs that look like they are covered in
icing. A giant mosaic-tiled lizard perches on
Sagrada Família
the stairway of the park beyond which
An extraordinary feat of creativity and
sinuous benches are intricately covered in
technical achievement, the Sagrada Família
detailed mosaics.
was Gaudí’s most ambitious and flamboyant
project and today, is one of Spain’s most Gaudí’s houses
renowned structures. Begun in 1882 and still Gaudí also designed a number of houses and
under construction, it largely follows Gaudí’s apartment blocks, which punctuate the urban
original plans in a monumental tribute to his fabric of Barcelona with their fanciful,
legacy. Even today, 130 years after it was free-form designs. Casa Vicens was one of his
begun, its design pushes the boundaries of first residential projects, and features bright
architectural theory with is towering parapets ceramics on the exterior as well as some
and ornate, organic detailing, flowing curves, intricate interior work. The curved grey
and vibrant mosaic work inspired by nature. façade of Casa Milá has earned it the
The basilica’s design breaks with all previous nickname ‘La Pedrera’ meaning ‘the stone
architectural styles and you can climb the quarry’, all topped off with giant chimneypots
towers for sweeping views and a close up of in the style of medieval knights, and the
the attention to detail that is lavished on all surreal form of Casa Batlló, which is an
elements of the structure, including those at audacious fashion statement featuring
roof level. The basement museum has displays wave-like balconies and a blue-tiled roof,
on Gaudí’s life, working methods and other commissioned for an eminent local
Sagrada Família projects. family in 1904.

www.audleytravel.com/spain • 01993 683 807 • Spain 51


Inside the Dalí Theatre-Museum, Figueres

Girona Costa Brava


Originally a Roman settlement, this major The rugged Costa Brava, less than two hours
Catalan city has seen French Napoleonic troops, north of Barcelona, is perhaps one of Spain’s
Visigoths and Moors overrun its cobbled streets. most beautiful and yet least explored coastlines.
The medieval walls contain a host of A patchwork of rocky pine-forests, sheer cliffs
Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture plunging into turquoise inlets, and windswept
including the striking Catedral de Santa María de headlands, it is backed by rolling countryside
Girona, featured in the Game of Thrones interspersed with rice fields and pretty, medieval
television series. Other highlights include the villages. Although busier areas exist, it’s easy to
12th-century Baños Árabes, a Roman-inspired find untouched coastline where you can spend
bathing complex, and the intricate alleyways of Baños Árabes, Girona time walking the coastal paths or exploring small
el Call, the former Jewish district and Jewish hilltop towns such as Begur where you can relax
Museum where you can find courtyards Dalí Theatre-Museum, over a leisurely meal in a handsome plaza.
embossed with Star of David mosaics and even
Figueres
the occasional hannukiyah candle holder built
into the wall. With its exterior dotted with plasterwork loaves
of bread and topped by giant eggs, Dalí’s
Theatre-Museum is a suitable homage to his life
and work. Figueres was Dalí’s home town and he
conceived the museum as the ultimate showcase,
creating a giant Surrealist artwork and multi-
dimensional sensory experience within the
town’s former municipal theatre. Opened in
1974, the museum is a triumph of the surreal and
highlights the sheer diversity of Dalí’s artistic
repertoire. Along with the renowned Mae West
Room and a reimagining of the Sistine Chapel,
the building is full of tricks and illusions, spy holes,
mirrors and flamboyant furniture. Nearby is a
separate gallery displaying some intricate
jewellery pieces that Dalí also designed.
Girona Cala Aiguablava near Begur, Costa Brava

52
Hotel Marques de Riscal by Frank Gehry, La Rioja Pouring sherry from a venencia, Jerez de la Frontera

Spanish wine
With Spanish wine production dating back as region just outside Barcelona and boasts its Rioja
far as Roman times, the country’s wines are as own Denominación de Origen (DO) status. Arguably one of Spain’s best known wines,
diverse as the landscapes and regions that The region is one of Europe’s oldest wine- Rioja, is famous the world over for its
produce them. Everywhere you go in Spain producing areas and overlooks the coastal dominant cherry tones achieved through the
you’ll see fields of vines dotting the landscape hills of the Serra del Garraf, with the salty expert blend of tempranillo and garnacha,
and you’ll find blanco, tinto and rosado as well Mediterranean air adding its own distinct tone along with the occasional addition of mazuelo
as sparkling wines and sherry among the to the wines. and graciano. The wine is produced from
regional specialities. vineyards that flank the rolling hillsides close
One of the very first producers of cava was
to the Oja River, leading to the name Rioja.
Cava Josep Raventós of the Codorníu estate back
Originating from the word cave, in reference in 1873 who created the first blend of local Visiting the region, it’s immediately clear it is
to the underground cellars in which it’s macabeo, xarello and parellada grapes. The one of stark contrasts. Vines have been
fermented, cava is Spain’s answer to label went on to be become one of Spain’s cultivated here since Roman times and if you
Champagne. It is produced in the Penedès largest wine exporters. A tour of the go to towns like Laguardia, you can still see
Codorníu estate is fascinating or alternatively the ancient cellars that riddle the rocks below.
experience the Penedès over a sun-soaked However, numerous wineries are also
lunch among the vines of a smaller boutique embracing boundary-pushing architecture.
winery. Perhaps the most arresting is Frank Gehry‘s
Hotel Marques de Riscal, an ostentatious
Sherry
confection of titanium ribbons designed on
The production of fortified sherry wine is
the grounds of the 150-year-old estate. You’ll
strictly limited to a small geographical area in
also find work by Zaha Hadid along with
southern Cádiz between the towns of Jerez
other prominent modern architects nestled
de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El
among the region’s historic towns and
Puerto de Santa María. Here you’ll find
vineyards.
bodegas that produce a large number of
different variations of sherry ranging from the
incredibly dry fino varieties, through the rich
and fragrant olorosos to the sweet cream
sherries such as Pedro Ximinez. One of the
best things to enjoy with sherry is the local
jamón Ibérico, a salty, complex cured meat
made from acorn-fed Iberian black pigs. As
well as options for sherry tasting, we can also
arrange visits to local producers to see the
pigs in their natural environment.
Cava wine cellar, Penedès Lopez de Heredia winery by Zaha Hadid, La Rioja

www.audleytravel.com/spain • 01993 683 807 • Spain 53


A typical tapas bar, Madrid

Madrid El Escorial
Renowned for its energy and drive, Spain’s Set against a backdrop of the Sierra de
dynamic capital is a modern metropolis with Guadarrama and just a short drive northwest of
august architecture, prestigious museums and Madrid, the vast monastery-palace of King Felipe
some of the world’s finest restaurants. Baroque II has been a retreat for Spanish royalty for
and Belle Époque palaces and plazas tell the centuries. It was built between 1563 and 1584
story of the city’s place in Spain’s rich history, and attracted the finest intellectuals, scientists
world-class art galleries such as the Prado and and artists in search of royal patronage. Inside,
the Reina Sofía showcase a wealth of classical and works by masters such as Titian, Tintoretto, El
contemporary art and expansive parks provide Greco, Velázquez and Hieronymus Bosch line the
leafy green space in which to relax. By night, the walls, while the grand library contains more than
city comes alive as good natured revellers take to 40,000 precious books and manuscripts.
the streets to wander between wine bars and Particularly impressive is the Panteón de los
traditional tapas joints, gourmet restaurants and Reyes, where almost all of Spain’s monarchs since
hidden lanes filled with cafes. Westin Palace, Madrid Carlos I are interred in gilded marble tombs.

Westin Palace, Madrid


Constructed on the request of King Alfonso XIII,
the Westin Palace in Madrid was once the largest
hotel in Europe and has welcomed guests into its
grand halls for over 100 years. As you enter the
large marble lobby you’re led into the central
stained-glass rotunda, which, during the Civil
War, allowed in enough natural light to allow
doctors to perform surgery during power cuts.
Now part of the Westin hotel chain, the
property has been carefully renovated in a style
of classical elegance and provides every modern
comfort across its 470 rooms. It’s also very
conveniently located close to the museums of
the Paseo del Prado.
Formal gardens in El Retiro Park, Madrid El Escorial, near Madrid

54
Palacio Real, Madrid

Museo Nacional del Prado

Madrid’s art galleries


Madrid’s Golden Triangle of Art
Patrons of home-grown talent and collectors
of vast quantities of foreign artworks, the
Spanish monarchy ensured art flourished
under their reign and amassed one of the
largest collections of art in Europe in the
process. Today, a trio of museums occupy
the Paseo del Prado, a tree-lined boulevard
Statue of Fillipe III on Plaza Mayor, Madrid in central Madrid, and showcases their legacy.

NH Collection Madrid Suecia Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía


Located just off Madrid’s central Gran Vía, the
NH Collection Madrid Suecia dates back to the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte
1950s and was Ernest Hemingway’s home when Reina Sofía
he visited the city. Today, the hotel has been In contrast to the Prado, the Reina Sofía’s
tastefully renovated, drawing on vintage collection comprises more than 21,000
elements of its Art Deco heritage yet providing works of modern and contemporary art.
high levels of modern comfort in the The museum is most famous for housing
Scandinavian-style furnishings (‘Suecia’ is Spanish Picasso’s Guernica, though only about five
for Sweden). Each of the 123 spacious rooms percent of its collection is on display at any
boasts hardwood floors, contemporary decor one time with Spanish artists such as Miró,
and high-quality furnishings. As well as the Dalí and Picasso topping the bill.
elegant breakfast room which has big windows Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza
overlooking the street, there is a chic rooftop Best known for its Impressionist works,
lounge bar offering panoramic views of the city. the Thyssen’s collection ranges from the
A hidden highlight though, is the underground 13th to the 20 th century and encompasses
Bar Hemingway located behind a concealed everything from Benedictine abbey frescoes
speakeasy-style entrance. to abstract Rothko canvasses.
Velasquez statue, Museo Nacional del Prado

Museo Nacional del Prado


Opened in 1819, the Prado’s collection
reflects the whims of Spanish monarchs who
focused on collecting as many paintings as
they could of their preferred artists. This has
resulted in the largest collections of El
Greco, Goya and Rubens’ paintings in the
world within a comprehensive gallery that
covers Spain’s history from 16th-century
Flemish influences to the arrival of the
Bourbons at the start of the 1700s. Painting by Emil Nolde, Thyssen-Bornemisza

NH Collection Madrid Suecia

www.audleytravel.com/spain • 01993 683 807 • Spain 55


Toledo

Toledo Segovia
The historic capital of Spain, UNESCO- Dating back to Roman times, the city of Segovia
protected Toledo was long a crossroads of boasts a towering aqueduct from the 1st century
Europe. Romans, Visigoths, Moors, Christians and AD which marches majestically through the city
Jews all lived here, creating a complex city whose walls into the heart of the old town. Built
layers of history and culture remain visible today. without mortar, the aqueduct has a double tier
Located within the cobbled tangle of medieval of arches and sits at the opposite end of the old
lanes are a number of fascinating sights including city to Segovia’s most-visited landmark, the
El Transito Synagogue, the tiny church of Santo turreted Alcázar. Begun in the 11th century,
Tome, which is home to El Greco’s best-known modified in medieval times and burned to the
painting, El Entierro del Conde de Orgaz (The ground in 1862, this castle’s towers, turrets and
Burial of the Count of Orgaz), and of course, the moat are a reconstruction of the original that is
city’s towering cathedral. Founded in 1226, the said to have inspired Walt Disney’s design for the
Catedral de Toledo remains the seat of the castle in Sleeping Beauty.
Catholic Church’s power in Spain and contains a
City walls, Ávila
gilded altarpiece and a sacristy filled with
masterpieces by the likes of El Greco, Zurbarán,
Ávila
Caravaggio, Titian and Raphael.
Ávila rises up from the boulder-strewn plains like
some medieval mirage, its 11th- and 12th-century
granite walls glowing golden in the sun. They’re
so well preserved that you half expect to see
El Cid riding out from under the flurry of gates,
watchtowers and turrets. It’s possible to walk
along several sections of the walls, however at
certain points Romanesque buildings are
incorporated into the fortifications such the
apse of Ávila’s cathedral. No visit would be
complete though without a stop at a pastelería,
to sample some of the city’s celebrated yemas
(egg yolk) pastries.
Yemas pastries, Ávila Roman aqueduct, Segovia

56
Alcázar, Segovia

La Concha beach, San Sebastián

Pouring cider from a height, San Sebastián Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao Plaza Nuevo in the Casco Viejo, Bilbao

Hotel Maria Cristina, Bilbao


San Sebastián
In the late 1990s Bilbao was a port city in a
An historic 136-room hotel on the edge of San
post-industrial slump, but the construction of
Sebastián’s old town, Hotel Maria Cristina has
Frank Gehry’s head-turning Guggenheim
welcomed the Spanish aristocracy since 1912. Its
Museum and Santiago Calatrava’s Zubizuri, an
original grandeur is matched by a contemporary
arching, helix-like footbridge, ignited an artistic
but sympathetic style with the grand lobby and
and architectural renaissance that has yet to
elegant interiors dotted with chandeliers and
diminish. You’ll still find something of the city’s
vibrant artworks indicative of its commitment to
former soul in the warren of tightknit dwellings,
the finer things in life. Even breakfast is a grand
shops, bakeries and pintxos bars of the Casco
affair served in the former ballroom which is
Viejo but any sense of recession has long been
adorned with the original gilt stuccowork.
replaced by pride, creativity and innovation.
Bilbao is less than a 90-minute drive from San
Sebastián and can be easily visited in a day.

Pintxos selection, San Sebastián


Pintxos
Good food is deeply ingrained in the heritage of
San Sebastián San Sebastián. The classic local dish is pintxos,
which resemble Spanish tapas but are not meant
An elegant coastal town with a picturesque
for sharing. Held together by a pincho (toothpick)
waterfront and a core of historic buildings, the
they are bite-sized morsels of bread topped with
Basque city of San Sebastián offers upmarket
anything from peppers stuffed with salt cod to
Belle-Époque façades and a very serious
morcilla, a kind of black pudding, and oil-flecked
devotion to gastronomy, in particular, pintxos,
Iberian ham. Look out for clever artistic trickery;
Basque-style tapas. The city that began as a
pintxos are often disguised as other dishes, a
humble fishing village is now considered a global
lemon dessert served in the form of an egg
gastronomic capital with one of the densest
perhaps or a beef pie as a chocolate brownie.
concentrations of Michelin stars per square
metre in the world. It was also the 2016
European Capital of Culture and is known for its
civic engagement and progressive attitude.
Hotel Maria Cristina, San Sebastián

www.audleytravel.com/spain • 01993 683 807 • Spain 57


Courtyard of the Maidens, Seville Alcázar

Seville Seville Alcázar


One of southern Spain’s great Moorish cities, A royal residence for the Spanish monarchy to
Seville is at once a fresh-faced, modern this day, Seville’s Alcázar, which means palace, is
metropolis and Andalusia’s elder statesman. Its widely regarded as one of the country’s best
significance in the country’s history can be seen in examples of Mudéjar-style architecture. Although
its architecture, which ranges from Roman relics commissioned by Seville’s Christian rulers, the
to modern wonders. The Alcázar, a magnificent Alcázar was built by the same artisans as
combination of Christian and Arab art, is here, as Granada’s Alhambra, and its graceful columns,
is the world’s largest Gothic cathedral. The courtyards, arabesque arches and abstract
immense Catedral de Sevilla is a gilded showcase geometric patterns reflect this. Once inside the
of Seville’s medieval wealth and home to the fortress-like walls, you move from one palace to
(purported) tomb of Christopher Columbus. another among a seamless blend of Islamic,
Its lofty bell tower, the Giralda, was originally Mudéjar, Gothic and Renaissance influences.
designed as a minaret with ramps inside instead The complexity of the rooms and courtyards is
of steps to allow the caller to reach the top on matched by the scale and design of its gardens
horseback. Wandering Seville’s sun-drenched where a sequence of outdoor rooms relies
lanes there’s a palpable sense of energy, with bars Tomb of Christopher Columbus, Catedral de Sevilla heavily on symmetry and order in the planting
and restaurants spilling onto plazas dotted with and positioning of the many citrus trees,
citrus trees and the unmistakable sound of Hospes las Casas del Rey fountains and raised pools.
flamenco echoing in the air. de Baeza, Seville
A string of 18th-century homes transformed into
a characterful hotel, Hospes las Casas del Rey de
Baeza boasts a distinct sense of Andalusian
charm with whitewashed façades surrounding
clusters of internal cobbled patios filled with
vines and potted plants. Inside, the 41 rooms are
styled along traditional Andalusian lines with
terracotta and stone floors, blue-and-white-
painted wood, wrought-iron bed frames and jute
matting. On the roof you’ll find a terrace bar,
solarium and pool that offer views across the city.
Hospes las Casas del Rey de Baeza, Seville Gardens of the Seville Alcázar

58
Flamenco
The proud, impassioned art of flamenco
took flight in the enclosed courtyards of
Triana among Seville’s Roma community.
Uniting guitar music, song and dance, you’ll
come across flamenco performances by
buskers on the streets but more authentic,
perhaps, and certainly more intimate, are
the shows in the tiny theatre tucked away
in Seville’s Triana Market. Alternatively, the
Flamenco Museum, Museo del Baile Musicians, Museo del Baile Flamenco
Flamenco in the Santa Cruz district stages its
own performances and prides itself on
drawing a local crowd as well as passing
visitors. It will give you a grounding in this
enigmatic dance, and how it journeyed
from a folk art to the cultural mainstay it
has become.
Rider at the Feria de Abril, Seville

Flamenco students’ street performance Show at the Museo del Baile Flamenco

The Giralda, Seville

Plaza de España
The showpiece of the 1929 Ibero-American
Exposition, the colonnaded Plaza de España is a
semi-circular complex bookended by two towers
and fronted by a Venetian-inspired canal with
rowing boats to hire. It is part of the Parque de
María Luisa and houses government buildings but
in the past has been the film set for David Lean’s
Lawrence of Arabia and the Star Wars franchise.
Today, its leafy surrounds make a shady place to
decamp if you want to avoid the hotter parts of
the day.

Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville

Hotel Mercer Sevilla Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville


A Seville landmark, the Hotel Alfonso XIII was
Hotel Mercer Sevilla commissioned to host visiting dignitaries during
Housed in a small, 19 th-century palace in the the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition. The
heart of Seville’s historic quarter, the Mercer property has a striking neo-Moorish design with
Hotel Sevilla has a palatial entrance that leads to a grand marble lobby and intricately patterned
a glass-roofed central atrium. With just 12 tiles leading to an arched colonnade and galleried
rooms, the atmosphere is intimate with clean courtyard. The Art Deco-style cocktail bar,
lines and pared-back decor adding a chic, restaurant overseen by a Michelin-starred chef,
contemporary style. The rooftop solarium and and outdoor pool offer ample opportunity for
pool offer views of the city, while the restaurant relaxation, while the 148 rooms combine
serves traditional Andalusian dishes cooked with elements of historic grandeur with modern
contemporary flair. comfort and amenities.
Plaza de España, Seville

www.audleytravel.com/spain • 01993 683 807 • Spain 59


The Alhambra, Granada

Granada Hiking the Alpujarras


Resting beneath the Alhambra at the foot of the A remote region in the southern foothills of the
Sierra Nevada, Granada has been a hub of Sierra Nevada, the Alpujarras are where the last
power for centuries. Once the seat of the Nasrid Moors unwilling to convert to Christianity after
emirs – the last Arab Muslim dynasty in Iberia the fall of Granada fled. Today, the region
– the Moorish influence is evident throughout, remains sparsely developed, allowing for some
from the winding lanes of the Alcaicería and the excellent hiking between the whitewashed
Albayzin to the spectacularly ornate halls of the villages that cling to the slopes. Exploring the
Alhambra. Granada was the last bastion of region with a guide brings its history and people
Moorish Spain and once conquered by Spanish to life as you hike along the paths that connected
Patio de los Leones, Alhambra Palace
monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella, the Christian the scattered settlements before the advent of
Reconquista came to an end: a triumph modern roads and enjoy lunch at a small local
The Alhambra
celebrated in the purpose-built royal chapel, restaurant. The walk is particularly pretty in early
Capilla Real, where the two monarchs are Considered the finest Islamic buildings in Europe, spring when the almond trees are in full bloom.
buried. Granada is also a great place to see a the 14th-century fortified palaces of the Alhambra
flamenco show or dine on some of the best sit on three hills overlooking Granada. The
regional tapas. Moorish complex was home to Granada’s Nasrid
dynasty and features a series of exquisitely
decorated rooms, baths, courtyards and gardens
ornamented with repetitive geometric mosaics,
intricate stucco and woodwork, and carefully
planned pools and fountains. Charles V added his
own Renaissance palace in the 16th century, while
in the early 19 th century Napoleon’s forces
destroyed large sections of the complex but
were thwarted in their plot to blow up the
whole site. The extensive remains are undeniably
impressive and an indication of the engineering
prowess, master craftsmanship and creative
imagination of the emirs and their architects.

Shops in the Alcaicería, Granada Walkers in the Alpujarras

60
Bridges across El Tajo Gorge, Ronda

Decorative details, Alhambra Palace Interior of the Mezquita, Córdoba

Mezquita, Córdoba
Another former capital of Spain and once the
largest and most culturally advanced city in
Western Europe, Córdoba has a labyrinthine
historic district that radiates from its renowned
Mezquita (mosque-cathedral). Between the 8 th
and 10 th centuries, Córdoba was a city of
intellectuals, filled with libraries, observatories,
palaces and mosques and attracted Jewish, Arab
and Christian scholars. At its heart was the
magnificent Mezquita, an immense mosque
complex later modified to include Christian
chapels and a towering Renaissance cathedral.
Landscape around Ronda
Inside, some 856 pillars, many of Roman and
Visigoth origin, create a forest of arches leading
Ronda to an ornate mihrab, or prayer niche. Outside,
Hospes Palacio del Bailío, Córdoba

Strategically located on the edge of the El Tajo you’ll find a large orange tree-filled patio and Hospes Palacio del Bailío,
Gorge, the small town of Ronda has been a fountains, and the Torre del Alminar, a former Córdoba
regional crossroads since Roman times. The minaret transformed into a bell tower. Combining modern refinement with historic
gorge, which was created by the Guadalevín grandeur, the Hotel Hospes Palacio del Bailío in
River, made the town almost impregnable and central Córdoba is set in a former 16th-century
once a bridge was built it became a bottleneck palace. The ruins of a Roman villa remain in the
for armies, bandits and anyone else trying to courtyard and the 51 rooms are decorated with
travel through the area. Today, three bridges original stone fixtures or period artworks, while
cross the gorge that creates a panoramic split in at the same time offering modern furnishings and
the mountains and offers sweeping views across large, marble bathrooms. Beyond the rooms,
the dry rolling hills and olive groves of the you’ll find open patios that connect the three
surrounding countryside. About two hours’ drive buildings of the hotel and, towards the back of
from either Seville or Granada, Ronda makes an the property, a pretty internal courtyard with a
interesting stop thanks to its turbulent history, walled garden and small pool. The hotel also
Moorish old town and scenic views. offers a spa.
View across the Puente Romano, Córdoba

www.audleytravel.com/spain • 01993 683 807 • Spain 61


Tailoring your trip
The itineraries shown are designed to give you
an idea of what is possible, and are routes that
work particularly well. We can use these as a
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely
different itinerary to suit your tastes and
interests. Please call one of our Spain specialists
to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 683 807

Getting around
While the majority of flights arrive into either
Madrid or Barcelona there are also numerous
connections available into both Seville and
Malaga. In the north, the airports in Bilbao and
Boats moored in Estepona, Costa del Sol San Sebastián provide good internal or short
haul flight links. Spain also boasts an extremely
efficient and extensive highspeed rail network
which is ideal for travelling between Barcelona
and Madrid and down to either Seville or Malaga
in the south. For those wishing to combine time
in Spain with a visit to Portugal, the overland
drive from Seville to Lisbon or the Algarve is
very straightforward and can be easily arranged.

When to go
Marbella old town, Costa del Sol Beach in Benalmadena, Costa del Sol Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
3 3 33 33 33 33 3 3 33 33 33 3

Costa del Sol 33 The best time to travel.


3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
A sun-drenched stretch of Mediterranean
Pleasant temperatures and lighter crowds make
shoreline west of Málaga, the Costa del Sol
late spring (April to May) or early autumn
has been one of Spain’s most popular
(September to October) a good time to visit
destinations for more than half a century.
Spain. However, it is a year-round destination
With an average of 320 days of sunshine a
with a relatively mild climate and winter
year, a host of beaches and a backdrop of
temperatures that rarely drop below 10C (50F).
mountains, it’s easy to see why. Development
Summers can be hot, especially in the south and
was rapid however, and high-rise resorts line
see an influx of visitors heading to the popular
the coast. Venture beyond them and you’ll Finca Cortesin, Costa del Sol
beach resorts. In winter, temperatures in the
discover traditional whitewashed mountain
south remain pleasant, while the north offers a
villages, Moorish influences in the old city Finca Cortesin,
cooler alternative to the sultry south in peak
cores and the joys of Málaga, a dynamic city Costa del Sol
season.
that was the birthplace of Picasso. You also A hacienda-style property surrounded by
get golf of all varieties and easy access to expansive gardens and one of Spain’s best golf Time difference: GMT +1 hour
Granada, Córdoba and Seville, which make courses, Finca Cortesin looks down to the
the coast a convenient spot to base yourself Mediterranean from its vantage point in the Prices
or relax at the end of your trip. foothills west of Marbella. Great attention to
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
detail has been lavished on the interiors with
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
rustic but chic furnishings, Andalusian-style
for your trip to Spain on our website,
courtyards and reclaimed stone flooring. The
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
67 rooms are spacious and bright and most
your plans.
have their own balcony or patio area. As well
as two outdoor pools, the hotel has an
expansive spa with a heated indoor saltwater
pool, thermal baths, treatment rooms and a
gym. There is also a shuttle to the private
beach club located five minutes away. The
hotel has three restaurants, among them
Kabuki Raw, a Michelin-starred Japanese
option.
Palm trees by a Málaga beach, Costa del Sol

62
Suggested itineraries
London
To Portsmouth

Portugal
Bilbao San Sebastián Paris

Sintra Spain

Lisbon
La Rioja
Córdoba
France
Seville Granada
Spain
Jerez
Malaga

Spain Costa Brava


Barcelona

Northern Spain by Car Barcelona & Beach by Rail Lisbon & Andalusia
Enjoy the freedom of driving your own car on this This leisurely trip focuses on short city breaks in Explored
seven-day tour that lets you explore the Basque Paris and Barcelona followed by time at one of This itinerary focuses on the southern portion of
Country, a region that boasts a distinctive cultural the best beaches on the Costa Brava, all wrapped the Iberian peninsula, taking in its delicious food
and culinary identity. Visit Bilbao and San up with tours that explore Spain’s artistic and and breathtaking architecture.
Sebastián, travel into La Rioja wine region and culinary heritage. You’ll travel by train, enjoying
spend the night in a countryside hotel. the unspooling countryside outside your window, Day 1 Arrive in Lisbon and head out on an
and have ample time to lounge on the beach or orientation tour by tuk-tuk.
Day 1 In Portsmouth, board an overnight by the pool.
ferry to Bilbao. Days 2-3 Visit Sintra to take in its whimsical
Day 1 Board the Eurostar in London bound architecture, then enjoy a special
Day 2 Settle into your hotel before taking a dinner accompanied by traditional
for Paris. Your driver will meet your
guided tour of the Guggenheim Portuguese fado music. Explore at
train in Paris and take you to your
Museum, known for its twisted your own pace before taking a
hotel. Spend the afternoon exploring
titanium-and-glass façade. sunset river cruise.
the city with our recommendations.
Day 3 Drive to your hotel in La Rioja wine Day 4 Stop to visit the Roman ruins of
Day 2 Take the train to Barcelona and
region and spend the afternoon on Évora before crossing the Spanish
spend the afternoon lounging on
your own, perhaps on a hike or visit border and heading to Seville.
the beach.
to a winery.
Day 3 Tour Barcelona’s art scene, including Day 5 Spend the morning touring the
Day 4 Head north to San Sebastián with highlights of Seville, and in the
the Picasso Museum, with a private
stops for shared tours and lunch at evening enjoy a tapas tour and
driver and guide.
a winery. flamenco performance.
Day 4 Taste your way through Grácia, a
Day 5 Discover San Sebastián on guided Day 6 Enjoy a full-day tour of Córdoba,
lesser-known district, for a group
tours. In the morning, explore the stopping along to way to visit
food and market tour.
historic district and, in the evening, Almodóvar Castle.
sample the city’s distinctive brand of Day 5 Leave Barcelona for the Costa
small plates, known as pintxos. Brava with a private driver, and enjoy Day 7 Journey outside Seville to Jerez to
the beach views as you settle into witness a traditional Andalusian
Day 6 We’ll offer plenty of suggestions horse-riding exhibition and enjoy a
your hotel.
for exploring the city on your sherry tasting.
own today. Day 6 Discover two of Catalonia’s medieval
cities, Girona and Figueres, the Day 8 Learn how to prepare a traditional
Day 7 Drive to Bilbao ferry port to catch Andalusian meal, then spend the
birthplace of Salvador Dalí, on a tour
the overnight ferry to Portsmouth. afternoon relaxing.
with a guide.
Stay longer Day 7 Enjoy some free time. You might Days 9-10 Continue on to Granada, along the
relax by the pool or head into way visiting Ronda with its Roman
Add a little relaxation to your trip with some
nearby Begur. bridge and plunging gorges. In
time on the beaches of Costa Brava or cross the
Granada spend a full day exploring
border into France and return home through Day 8 Board a train for Paris, where you’ll the city and the Alhambra, where
Bordeaux. spend your final night and can enjoy you’ll enjoy lunch in the palace
a relaxed dinner. grounds.
Day 9 Your private driver will bring you Day 11 Explore Andalusia’s natural beauty
to the Eurostar station for your on a hike through the Alpujarras and
trip home. spend the evening relaxing in Málaga.
Day 12 Travel to the airport for your
Stay longer
onward flight.
Extend your time in Paris or explore Normandy
with guided tours that delve into the region’s
military or culinary history.

Plate of pintxos, San Sebastián

www.audleytravel.com/spain • 01993 683 807 • Spain 63


Portugal
O n the western edge of Europe and a trailblazer during the medieval Age of
Discovery, Portugal owes its diversity to centuries of foreign influence, tempered by an abiding
Catholic faith. As you listen to melancholic fado music in Lisbon or sip sweet port in the Douro Valley,
the country’s history becomes captivatingly apparent. This is the country from which Henry the
Navigator launched a great nautical age that brought unimaginable wealth. Its culturally rich cities house
a treasure trove of architectural wonders from Roman ruins to impressive Baroque cathedrals and
Moorish hilltop fortresses. It’s also a country that suffered devastation from a massive earthquake and
had to rebuild in the second half of the 18 th century. The resilience of the Portuguese people has seen
it overcome adversity and orchestrate a major renaissance in the 21st century as a world-renowned
destination for history and culture. Far more than the beaches of the Algarve, Portugal offers
everything from vibrant tiled churches in Porto to enchanting storybook palaces in Sintra, along
with sun-baked plains, cork forests and picturesque vineyards.

Audley in Portugal
In Portugal we can design a trip around your
interests with a focus on anything from food
Braga
and culture to history and hiking. En route,
Guimarães
our specialists can introduce you to some of Vila Real
the country’s lesser-known sights as well as Porto 2 D River Pinhão o ur o

I I I I
enriching local experiences that will bring Douro Valley

you closer to the real Portugal and its 1

I
I
people. Go wine tasting in the rural

I
N

PORTUGAL
I I
CEA

Alentejo, explore local markets and learn to


I
I
cook traditional dishes in the Algarve, or
I I
C O

I
I Coimbra
take a lunch cruise on a private boat through I
I
I I I
I

the vineyards of the Douro Valley.


ANT

I I I I

Alternatively, you could set sail from Belém


ATL

like a discovery age explorer, tour the er


Tagu s Riv
I I

palaces and gardens of Sintra, or hike the Óbidos


II

SPAIN
rugged sandstone cliffs of the Algarve; soak
I
I

I
I
up the atmosphere from a roof terrace Sintra I

3
I

Estoril 4
I

overlooking Lisbon’s skyline, or relax on a


I

LISBON
I

Cascais
sandy beach.
I

Belém Setúbal
I I I I
I Évora
I I

Sesimbra
Accommodation
I I I

Parque Natural
da Arrábida
I

Portugal offers an excitingly diverse mix of


I

I
0 50 miles
I I

hotels from trendy city boltholes with 0 80 kilometres


I I I I

panoramic views to historic pousadas – I

converted mansions, convents and palaces


I I

that, like Spain’s paradors, were turned into


I
I

Lagos
I

hotels by the state to protect and promote


I
I

Cabo de I
I 5 Tavira
the country’s cultural heritage. Just north of Sao Vicente Sagres I
Faro
Parque Natural
Lisbon, you can relax in 18 th-century da Ria Formosa
splendour in a palace in Sintra, in the rolling
hills of the Douro Valley we offer
picturesque wineries known as ‘quintas’,
while in the rural Alentejo you can get off
the beaten track at an indulgent hacienda-
1 Douro Valley 3 Palaces of Sintra 5 Beaches of the Algarve
style farm estate. On the coast you can
Visit the steeply terraced A fairy-tale landscape of Miles of sandy, windswept
choose between our carefully selected,
vineyards in one of the gardens and palaces set on dunes and precipitous
family-friendly properties or quieter
world’s oldest demarcated wooded hillsides beloved by sandstone cliffs along the
boutique options up in the hills.
wine regions. Lisbon’s aristocracy. southern coast.
See page 72 See page 68 See page 74

2 Porto’s tiled churches 4 Skyline of Lisbon Pastéis de nata


The blue and white azulejo-clad Soak up panoramic views of Portugal’s renowned custard
churches of Porto are an Lisbon’s seven precipitous hills tarts, which are said to have
enduring sight not to be missed. over an evening drink. originated in Belém from a
See page 69 See pages 66-67 secret recipe used by monks.
See page 67

www.audleytravel.com/portugal • 01993 662 123 • Portugal 65


Yellow tram in the Alfama district, Lisbon

Lisbon Listen to fado music


An elegant city overlooking the Tagus River, the Portugal’s melancholic folk music, fado, is known
Portuguese capital offers a delightful mix of for its haunting and passionate refrains and is
historic grandeur and youthful vibrancy. Narrow something everyone should experience at least
streets wend their way past lively cafes and once in their lifetime. Most often covering
traditional pastry shops before opening out into themes of love, loss and sadness, the music
grand plazas, designed with meticulous care after encapsulates the Portuguese sentiment of
the 1755 earthquake. The medina-like maze of ‘saudade’ or the feeling of longing or loss.
streets in the Alfama district bustle with life and Recognized by UNESCO for its intangible
lead the way to the Moorish fortress of Castelo cultural heritage, fado’s traditional melodies are
São Jorge and its panoramic vantage point above sung in restaurants and fado bars by a solo
the city. In between, the city’s clattering yellow vocalist, accompanied by guitar or viola. In
trams and funiculars ferry residents and visitors Pousada de Lisboa, Lisbon Lisbon, listening to fado is a serious, heartfelt
up and down the steep hills that make up the business and you’ll notice that a whole restaurant
heart of the city and allow for sweeping views of Pousada de Lisboa, Lisbon will still and the atmosphere build as the lights
the city’s skyline. In the evening patrons flock to Housed in a former palace on the corner of the go down and the captivating and evocative
acclaimed restaurants in the Chaido district or Praça do Comércio, the Pousada de Lisboa is music begins.
while away the night in the buzzing bar scene of conveniently located in the heart of Lisbon. This
the Bairro Alto. 90-room hotel sits behind the bright yellow
façade of what was previously the Ministry of
Internal Affairs and inside you’ll find an eclectic
selection of period furniture, antiques,
contemporary reproductions and bright artwork
which all help to tell the story of Portugal’s
history. Low vaulted ceilings, marble floors and
dark woods add to the atmosphere but are lifted
by chic modern touches. A light and airy internal
courtyard with a domed glass roof is the setting
for breakfast, while upstairs you’ll find a modern
spa and gym complete with an indoor pool,
sauna and small solarium on the roof.
Rooftop bar in the Bairro Alto area, Lisbon Fado guitarist, Lisbon

66
Rossio Square, Lisbon Torre de Belém

Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Castelo São Jorge, Lisbon

Belém
Around 20 minutes’ drive west of central Lisbon,
the historic district of Belém is where Vasco Da
Gama set sail for India, heralding Portugal’s great
Age of Discovery. To commemorate his success
the lavish Jerónimos Monastery was subsequently
built here, replacing the modest chapel where
the sailors prayed before a voyage with a
towering, ornate construction. Along with the
nearby Torre de Belém, the monastery is now a Pastéis de nata
UNESCO World Heritage Site and the two are
Made from delicate pastry filled with a
Memmo Príncipe Real, Lisbon considered to be some of the finest examples of
rich, blistered custard, pastéis de nata
Manueline architecture (named after King
are found across the country but are
Memmo Príncipe Real, Lisbon Manuel I) found in Portugal. Also located along
most closely associated with Jerónimos
Situated in dramatic fashion on a hillside in Belém’s waterfront is the imposing Padrão dos
Monastery and a small bakery nearby.
Lisbon’s Príncipe Real district, the Memmo Descobrimentos, a fitting monument to
Traditionally, monasteries used large
Príncipe Real offers panoramic views across the Portugal’s many explorers designed to look like
quantities of egg whites for starching
city. Its clean, modernist lines, plate-glass the prow of a caravel about to set sail.
clothes, while the yolks ended up in the
windows and sharp corners make for a striking
kitchen and were often used in pastries.
sight. To the front, there is a large terrace bar
After the Liberal Revolution of 1820,
and swimming pool positioned to make the most
many of Portugal’s monasteries
of the precipitous views. Inside, the lobby and
struggled to make ends meet and
ground-floor restaurant make the most of the
legend has it that the monks of
vista with floor-to-ceiling windows and
Jerónimos sold their recipe for pastéis
comfortable seating. Each of the 41 rooms is
de nata to a local businessman who
furnished with great attention to detail. Wooden
opened Pastéis de Belém in 1837.
floors are covered with thick rugs, white linen
Today, the popular cafe’s custard tarts
bedding tops the comfortable beds, and the
are still made to the original, and highly
furniture is sleek and design conscious. You’ll
guarded, recipe.
even find the ingredients to mix your own
signature cocktail when you arrive.
Padrão dos Descobrimentos, Belém

www.audleytravel.com/portugal • 01993 662 123 • Portugal 67


Palácio Nacional da Pena, Sintra

Sintra Óbidos
Believed by the Celts to have mystical powers, An hour north of Lisbon, Óbidos is a well-
Sintra became a popular retreat for Lisbon’s preserved hilltown surrounded by medieval
nobility due to its cooler climate and attracted fortifications. The narrow, cobblestone streets
some incredible feats of whimsical architecture. are jammed with whitewashed buildings dripping
Located half an hour west of Lisbon, its hilly, with bougainvillea and street stalls selling ginja, a
forested slopes are punctuated with palaces and traditional cherry liqueur. The main street
gardens such as the pink-and-lemon façade of the attracts plenty of visitors, but the side roads and Capelas Imperfeitas at Batalha Monastery
Palácio Nacional da Pena, the Palácio Nacional de residential lanes remain tranquil and lead to a
Sintra, known for its pair of giant conical hilltop castle with honey-toned towers and Alcobaça & Batalha
chimneys, and Quinta da Regaleira, an eccentric imposing ramparts. monasteries
Gothic folly surrounded by gardens filled with
secret passages and mystic symbols. Bristling with intricate detail, the UNESCO-listed
Batalha Monastery combines 14th-century
Tivoli Palácio de Seteais, Sintra Flamboyant Gothic architecture with ornate
Sleep in sumptuously decorated guest rooms and Manueline style. Inside are a number of medieval
breakfast in a grand frescoed dining room in the royal tombs including those of Dom João I, his
Tivoli Palácio de Seteais, an 18th-century palace wife Queen Philippa of Lancaster and their son,
set on the mountainside of Sintra. High ceilings, Henry the Navigator. It is also home to the
large windows and rich, period furnishings all add Portuguese Tomb of the Unknown Soldier over
to the impression of stepping back in time. which a constant military vigil is held. Another
Outside, a large pool, tennis court and historic evocative highlight is the Capelas Imperfeitas, an
box maze sit in the formal gardens, while an unfinished royal mausoleum which remains
annex contains the hotel’s spa. Each of the 30 forever open to the sky. In comparison, the
guest rooms is sumptuously decorated in a 12th-century Alcobaça Monastery sits behind a
classical style with rich furnishings and period Baroque façade, its interior boasting a severe
pieces. All feature high ceilings and large windows simplicity typical of Gothic Cistercian style. On
and offer views either of the pool and gardens or show are elements of daily life from the medieval
of the leafy mountains of Sintra. kitchens and chimneys to the monks’ stark
dormitories. Both monasteries are less than two
hours from Lisbon.
Tivoli Palácio de Seteais, Sintra

68
Azulejo façade in the Alfama district, Lisbon

History of azulejo
Among the things that Portugal does National Azulejo Museum
particularly well is ceramics, with companies Azulejo is such an integral part of Portugal’s
like Vista Alegre at the forefront of the form. art and culture that there is an entire museum
However, one of Portugal’s most unique devoted to it in Lisbon. Housed within a
ceramic styles is azulejo tilework; with origins former monastery, the museum boasts an
in the country’s Moorish past, the tiles expansive tile collection spanning five
evolved in design from brightly patterned centuries along with the stunning tile-filled
geometric shapes, similar to those found in Madre de Deus church, decorated in Baroque
Islamic style decoration towards a later style style with gilded and carved wood. The
of intricate blue and white depictions of highlight though is a 23 metre long azulejo
Portuguese history and Christianity. rendering of the Lisbon cityscape prior to the
Capela das Almas, Porto 1755 earthquake.

Porto’s tiled churches


Though azuelejo serves an obvious purpose
as a pleasing decoration, the tiles also offer
protection to building exteriors to prevent
damage from the elements. This dual purpose
can be seen all over Portugal. In the city of
Porto, you can find some excellent examples
of blue and white clad churches such as the
Capela das Almas, or Chapel of Souls, where
the tiles depict important moments in
Christianity, including the death of Saint
Francis and the martyrdom of Saint Catherine.
You can also see a phenomenal display of
tilework inside the São Bento train station.
Geometric azulejo panel, Sintra Exhibit at the National Azulejo Museum, Lisbon

www.audleytravel.com/portugal • 01993 662 123 • Portugal 69


View over the Douro River, Porto

Porto Port
In the northern reaches of Portugal, the Douro Port owes much of its success to the animosity
River winds its way through dramatically sloped between France and Britain during the 18th
valleys to the coast at Porto, the country’s century. Unable to import wine from France,
second largest city. It’s a beguiling place full of British merchants looked to Portugal for an
historical and architectural treasures. You’ll find alternative tipple. A lucrative trade emerged as
brightly tiled houses clustering along the steep wine was shipped down the Duoro River to the
river banks, hilltop parks offering sweeping views, great port houses in Porto’s Vila Nova de Gaia,
and shops, cafes and bars lining the streets of the ready to be shipped overseas. In order to
bustling medieval core. Hand-painted azulejo tiles preserve the wine for the journey to Britain and
are an unmistakable feature of the city and can elsewhere, it was spiked with brandy leading to a
be seen adorning churches and noble buildings as rich, sweet-tasting wine. Today, you can visit the
well as the cavernous interior of the São Bento Douro Valley vineyards and larger Vila Nova de
train station. On the opposite bank, Vila Nova de Gaia cellars to enjoy a tasting and learn more
Gaia is home to a tangle of ancient cellars and about the port-making process.
warehouses where the city’s eponymous fortified
wine is aged.
Pestana Vintage, Porto

Pestana Vintage, Porto


Overlooking the Douro, the waterfront Pestana
Vintage Porto offers an ideal location in the
vibrant Ribeira district. The hotel’s 109 rooms
are spread across 12 small, 16th-century houses
linked by glass-walled bridges that give views of
the river. A hint of vintage style, soft white linens,
designer touches and large windows offering
views out across the water, make the rooms a
comfortable base after a day of exploring.
Downstairs, an elegant cocktail bar opens out
onto a waterfront patio.
Interior of São Bento train station, Porto Port tasting, Porto

70
Garden of Santa Barbara, Braga Mondego River, Coimbra Guimarães Castle

Steps to Bom Jesus do Monte, Braga Praça de Santiago, Guimarães

Braga & Guimarães


To the northeast of Porto sit two intriguing cities,
both easy to visit on a day trip. The first,
Guimarães, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
whose cobbled streets and plazas weave around
half-timbered houses. Explore the streets with
the aid of a guide, and visit the city’s ruined
hilltop castle as well as a palace used by the
Dukes of Bragança in the 15th century. After
lunch continue on to Braga, one of Portugal’s
most popular pilgrimage sites. The cathedral,
Bom Jesus do Monte, sits high above the city and
is accessed by a series of steep ornamental
staircases adorned with statues and fountains, or
Interior of Capela de São Miguel, Coimbra
more easily by a water-operated funicular. A
The Yeatman Hotel, Porto second cathedral sits in the heart of Braga close
Coimbra
to the vibrant Garden of Santa Barbara.
The Yeatman Hotel, Porto Sitting on the banks of the Mondego River south
In the heart of Vila Nova de Gaia and just across of Porto, Coimbra’s winding medieval streets,
the river from central Porto, The Yeatman Hotel bustling waterfront and large student population
is a polished, wine-focused property offering give it a lively charm. The city served briefly as
unbeatable views of the river and city beyond. Portugal’s capital but is best known for its
Each of the 82 spacious rooms has its own historic university, which opened in 1290. Among
terrace with panoramic views over the river and its treasures is the Biblioteca Joanina, a heavily
all are individually styled by a different gilded Baroque library that showcases Portugal’s
Portuguese winery to reflect the brand and its immense wealth in the 18 th century. Nearby is
history. The hotel’s gastronomic restaurant the Capela de São Miguel with its notable
boasts two Michelin stars and serves a nightly ornately carved organ and floor-to-ceiling azulejo
choice of three tasting menus. The hotel also has tiling, and the Sala dos Capelos, a deliberately
an expansive spa along with indoor and outdoor grand exam hall where students defend their
pools with panoramic views. theses.
Palace of the Dukes of Bragança, Guimarães

www.audleytravel.com/portugal • 01993 662 123 • Portugal 71


Douro Valley

Douro Valley Six Senses Douro Valley


The first European property for luxury spa brand
Famed for its steeply terraced vineyards, the
Six Senses, the Six Senses Douro Valley creates
Douro Valley in northern Portugal has been
an air of peaceful seclusion on a bend in the
carved out over centuries and today provides a
Douro River. It is set on a historic family estate
scenic backdrop to one of Portugal’s most
surrounded by terraced vineyards and manicured
important wine producing areas. So important
gardens and combines rustic original buildings
was the region that it became one of the first
with a chic, modern design theme. The 59
officially demarcated wine regions in the world,
understated rooms are serene and uncluttered,
established by the Marquis de Pombal in 1756 to
while the restaurants are supplied with fresh
protect the quality and integrity of the country’s
seasonal ingredients from the extensive organic
port wine production. Today, the Douro Valley is
kitchen garden in the grounds. The hotel has a
dotted with the extensive vineyards of various
strong focus on relaxation and alongside the
port wineries as well as more modern boutique
signature spa, offers indoor and outdoor pools
producers of crisp whites and bold reds. The
and a sauna.
region also offers some excellent gastronomy Grape harvest, Douro Valley
with opportunities to take a leisurely private
lunch cruise along the valley or relax on a Quinta Nova, Douro Valley
restaurant terrace with panoramic views. Both a hotel and highly respected winery, Quinta
Nova occupies a scenic location in the heart of
the Douro Valley offering striking views across
terraced hillsides and vineyards down the river.
The 11 rooms are located within the complex’s
converted 18 th-century manor and a small annex
next door. Just outside is a tiny chapel and
swimming pool nestled in gardens with
panoramic views. The hotel also features a
museum dedicated to the history of port
production and a stay includes a complimentary
winery tour. A highlight though, is the excellent
restaurant which offers a much-lauded tasting
menu of refined regional dishes.
Quinta Nova, Douro Valley Six Senses Douro Valley

72
Men chatting, Évora

Évora

Houses built into the aqueduct, Évora Landscape of the Alentejo

Pousada Convento de Évora


Occupying what is undeniably one of the best
spots in Évora, the 15th-century Pousada
Convento de Évora makes an ideal base for
exploring the UNESCO-listed city. The
whitewashed building is ornamented with
traditional yellow accents and is located directly
opposite the Templo Romano. The cloisters are
filled with citrus trees and flow through to a
number of other interior courtyards via sweeping
Templo Romano, Évora stone staircases. An inviting outdoor pool is
nestled at the back of the property and flanked São Lourenço do Barrocal, Alentejo
Évora with palm trees, while the monks’ cells have been
São Lourenço do Barrocal,
converted into 36 comfortable rooms.
Nestled in the heart of the Alentejo, a region Alentejo
characterised by a rolling sun-baked landscape of Located in a tranquil corner of the Alentejo
cork-trees, olive groves and vineyards, is the the countryside, about an hour east of Évora, São
historic walled town of Évora. The city itself Lourenço do Barrocal has been in the same
dates back to Roman times and later in the 15th family for over 200 years. At its peak, 50 families
century, the kings of Portugal chose Évora to be lived on the complex, which had its own chapel,
their capital, contributing to its development, as schoolroom and bullring. Today, the whitewashed
well as its cultural and historical importance. buildings have been renovated to offer 24
Today, the city boasts UNESCO World Heritage elegantly rustic rooms and suites. The farm’s
status thanks to its Moorish alleyways, intact kennels are now a chic farm-to-table restaurant,
medieval walls, Roman ruins, Gothic cathedral while the former chicken house is a shop. There
and towering aqueduct. Located less than two is an extensive spa, a small winery, and a relaxing
hours east of Lisbon, the town offers a pleasing outdoor pool and walled garden. As well as
central square and plenty of winding cobbled numerous walking, cycling and horse-riding trails
streets as well as a range of excellent restaurants. (it has its own stables), the property is part of a
For those interested in more alternative sights, Dark Sky Reserve and offers stargazing at the
the city also contains a Chapel of Bones, lined nearby Alqueva Lake Observatory.
entirely with skulls and skeletal remains.
Pousada Convento de Évora

www.audleytravel.com/portugal • 01993 662 123 • Portugal 73


Praia do Camilo, Algarve

Algarve Vila Monte Farm House,


Algarve
With sunny skies, golden sands and calm blue
Spread across large tranquil grounds filled with
waters, Portugal’s southern Algarve coastline is a
citrus, olive and carob trees, Vila Monte Farm
popular beach retreat. In places it suffers from
House is a rustic retreat in the hills of the
over development but if you look beyond the
Algarve. A series of whitewashed annexes with
most commercial resorts, it is an area boasting
subtle Moorish influences house the 55 guest
impressive scenery, pockets of authentic local
rooms with meandering paths linking them to the
culture, Moorish and Roman ruins, pristine
two swimming pools, massage pavilion, fire pits
nature reserves and plenty of historic character.
and small outdoor cinema. Breakfast is served
The modern city of Faro is the provincial capital
each morning in the Laranjal restaurant, located
with an intriguing old town that overlooks the
at the end of an avenue of orange trees, and
Parque Natural da Ria Formosa, a vast system of
offers terrace seating with views over the
saltwater lagoons and shallow marshes, barrier
surrounding hills to the sea. A daily service by
islands and creeks. Here you can watch locals
Coastal path near the Ponta da Piedade, Algarve shuttle and private boat to a nearby secluded
gathering oysters in the mud or take a boat tour
beach is also on offer.
to spot the many species of water bird found
Hiking in the Algarve
here.
West of Faro, Lagos is one of the more popular
destinations in the Algarve. Here, abutting the
wide sandy beaches are a series of dramatic
sandstone cliffs, which make a scenic backdrop
for a coastal hike. Exploring with a guide, you can
walk along the clifftop trail, climbing and
descending the steps to stop and swim in many
of the attractive bays that dot the region. You’ll
also get the chance to visit the Ponta da Piedade
(Point of Piety) where rock pillars, hidden
grottoes and impressive rock arches have been
carved out of the cliffs by centuries of erosion
and hidden inlets reveal golden sandstone cliffs
carved into fantastical shapes.
Parque Natural da Ria Formosa, Algarve Vila Monte Farm House, Algarve

74
Suggested itineraries
Tailoring your trip
Porto
The itineraries shown are designed to give you Douro Valley
an idea of what is possible, and are routes that Porto
Douro Valley
work particularly well. We can use these as a Coimbra
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely
different itinerary to suit your tastes and
interests. Please call one of our Portugal Sintra
specialists to start planning your itinerary. Lisbon Évora

T 01993 662 123 Sintra Lisbon

Getting around Algarve

Portugal’s two major airports are Lisbon and


Porto, with the majority of flights arriving into
Lisbon. Both also offer several daily flights to and Highlights of Portugal Explored
from neighbouring Spain. Portugal boasts an Lisbon & Porto Explore Portugal’s varied landscapes starting in
efficient high-speed train service between Porto This itinerary focuses on Portugal’s two largest the medieval core of Porto before visiting the
and Lisbon and down to Faro in the Algarve. cities – Lisbon, its dynamic capital, and Porto, precipitous vineyards of the Douro Valley. Head
Alternatively, private overland tours, with known for producing Portugal’s signature port south to the bustling capital, Lisbon before ending
knowledgeable drivers, are a great way to wine. It provides an insight into the country’s on the sun-drenched coast of the Algarve.
venture out of the major cities to take in the history as well as its cultural and culinary
highlights. Day 1 Arrive in Porto and transfer to your
plethora of surrounding towns and picturesque hotel to spend the day at leisure.
countryside, and are the best way to navigate the
Day 1 Arrive in Lisbon and transfer to your Day 2 Embark on a historic tour of central
Douro Valley and Algarve. A driver can also take hotel, then later head out for a Porto, then embark on a private
you by road into Spain. special dinner showcasing Portugal’s cruise along the Douro River while
traditional fado music. enjoying a leisurely lunch.
When to go Day 2 Take a tour of through the heart of Day 3 Head to the Douro Valley, stopping
bustling Lisbon, tasting Portuguese along the way for lunch and tastings
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
delicacies along the way. at local wineries. Spend the night in a
3 3 33 33 33 33 3 3 33 33 33 3
welcoming local wine estate.
Day 3 Venture outside of Lisbon to Sintra
33 The best time to travel. and take in its awe-inspiring Day 4 Travel to Lisbon, with a guided tour
3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. architecture with visits to the of Coimbra, home to Portugal’s first
With its sunny and inviting climate, Portugal is whimsical Quinta da Regaleira and and oldest university, en route.
best enjoyed in spring (March to May), when the the romantic Palácio da Pena.
Day 5 Enjoy a comprehensive tour of
country is in bloom and waking after the winter, Day 4 Head north by train to Porto today, central Lisbon before exploring the
or in the autumn (September to October), when where you can explore in your own outer district of Belém, where
the sun is still shining, the weather is warm and time, walking along the vibrant Henry the Navigator launched his
Ribeira waterfront or making your first expedition.
many of the summer crowds have dispersed.
way down to the mouth of the
Summers (June to August) can get very hot, Douro River. Day 6 Take in the whimsical architecture of
particularly in central Portugal, and large Sintra’s palaces with your private
Day 5 Enjoy a full-day tour of Porto, guide on a full-day trip from Lisbon.
numbers of Portuguese head to the beach during
discovering the city’s historic
this period. The winters, though colder, still offer landmarks before a port tasting Day 7 Continue south to the sun-kissed
a good amount of sun. While many beach resorts across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia. Algarve region, stopping along the
way to explore the Roman ruins
wind down at this time, it can still be a beautiful Day 6 Travel to the scenic Douro Valley for in Évora.
time to explore the cities and inland areas. tours and tastings at three different
local wineries. Days 8-9 Learn how to make a traditional
Time difference: GMT Portuguese cataplana in a private
Day 7 Head to the airport for your cooking class, then spend your final
Prices onward flight. day in Portugal enjoying the beach or
relaxing at your hotel.
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of Stay longer
Day 10 Head to the airport for your
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices If you’d like to spend more time in Portugal, visit onward flight.
for your trip to Portugal on our website, the Roman ruins in Évora, or while away the days
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss exploring the natural landscape of the sunny Stay longer
your plans. Algarve.
If you’re not ready to head home yet, you may
wish to cross the border into Andalusia in
neighbouring Spain, where you can explore the
Moorish architecture and feel the flamenco
rhythm in Seville or Granada.

www.audleytravel.com/portugal • 01993 662 123 • Portugal 75


France
R enowned for its seductive charm, fine food and superb art and architecture, France is a
destination that delights and inspires whether you’re a first time visitor or an old hand. From the
palatial museums and effortless glamour of Paris to sun-kissed medieval villages and decadent beach
resorts, this fascinating country combines high culture, traditional values and a deep-rooted
appreciation of the finer things in life. France’s extraordinary artistic and literary heritage is revealed in
a wealth of museums and galleries, many of which are set in magnificent buildings. Like the arts,
architecture is a key element of French culture with exquisitely engineered Roman arenas, soaring
Gothic cathedrals, sprawling Renaissance châteaux and elegant Belle Époque villas littering the cities
and countryside. The beauty of rural France inspired many of its artists and writers who were
enchanted by its languid charm and dramatic landscapes. Driving through olive groves and lavender
fields, hilltop villages and vine-clad hills you’ll begin to appreciate the strong French connection to the
land, and in turn, the expectation that fine food and wine should be a part of everyday life, a French
preoccupation that serves the visitor extremely well.

Audley in France
UNITED
France has so many appealing destinations KINGDOM
that it can be difficult to choose where to
go. Our specialists know the country
l
English Channe
BELGIUM
intimately and they will help you with your
planning and preparation, suggesting 2
D
bea-Day
destinations and activities based on your ches Honfleur
Bayeux Se Rouen
interests in order to create a tailor-made I I
ine LUXEMBOURG
Caen I I
I

itinerary just for you. Our aim is to provide 1


I
NORMANDY
Reims
I
Saint-Malo I I I
I

Mont Saint-Michel
I
I I
context to your experiences. You will be I I
PARIS
I I
I Champagne
I I
I
guided by local experts to enable you to get
I I
I I

I
I
I

I
I
I

a deeper insight into French culture, we will


I I
I

I
I
I I

Angers I
advise you on how to avoid the crowds at
I

Loire Valley I I
I
I

Tours Amboise
Loire
I
I

I I

the most popular attractions, and can direct


I

0 60 miles
ne
I

Chinon Château
Châteaude
de
I I


I

0 100 kilometres
you to lesser-known destinations bursting Chenonceau
Chenonceau
I

I I I

R
I

I
I
I Beaune
with authentic charm. Whether you want to I
Burgundy
I I

I
I
cay

I
combine the art galleries of Paris with the SWITZERLAND
I I

Loire Valley châteaux or medieval villages


I
I
FRANCE
I I

I
of Bis

Geneva
Mâcon
I

I I I

Lac d’Annecy
I

with glittering resorts, we’ve got it covered,


I

Beaujolais
Lascaux
I

I
DORDOGNE I I I
Chamonix
I

I I
I I I I I I I I I

and along the way you can learn to cook in a Caves Lyon
Bay

I I

Bordeaux Saint- Sarlat-La- RHÔNE-ALPES


private family home, discover the secrets of Cap Ferret Émilion Canéda ITALY
the Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards or trace Bordeaux

history on Normandy’s D-Day beaches.


I I
I

Pont-du-Gard 3
I

Accommodation Avignon PROVENCE


I I

Arles Aix-en- MONACO


I

Provence I I Nice
I
I

From stylish hotels overlooking the I I I I


I I

I
I Cannes
Marseille I I Saint- The French
I

turquoise waters of the Mediterranean to ANDORRA Riviera


Tropez
creeper-clad mansions dating back to the SPAIN
16th century, our specialists have chosen
Mediterranean Sea
some of the most characterful and unique CORSICA

accommodation options in France. They’ll


match your tastes and budget to a collection
1 Paris 3 Hilltop villages, Wine
of memorable properties that will enhance
A capital city to rival the best of Provence Sip Champagne in Paris, enjoy
your entire experience. In Paris, the options
them, with world-renowned Perched medieval villages Burgundy along the Rhone
are endless whether you wish to base
art, lively cafes, a rich history overlook sprawling Provençal Valley, or sample deep reds in
yourself in a chic townhouse once home to
and effortless style. landscapes, peppered with olive Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Hollywood stars, a minimalist retreat in
See pages 78-80 groves and lavender fields. See page 93
fashionable Saint-Germain or an artistically-
See page 89
styled loft overlooking the roofs of 2 D-Day beaches Food
Montmartre. Elsewhere, the choice is just as Trace the footsteps of the Châteaux Enjoy a private cooking class in
broad with regal châteaux offering opulent Allied troops during the D-Day Tour the regal apartments, France’s gastronomic capital,
surroundings, grand villas with all the landings on 6th June 1944. manicured gardens and Lyon, wander through bustling
comforts of home and indulgent escapes See page 83 extensive grounds of the markets in the Dordogne or
that typify the glitz and glamour of the architectural projects of take part in a gourmet walking
French Riviera. French royalty. tour of Bordeaux.
See page 81

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 77


Sacré-Coeur Basilica, the Right Bank

Paris Le Meurice, Palais-Royal


Once known as the ‘hotel of kings’, due to its
With its tree-lined boulevards, stately
popularity with visiting royalty, Le Meurice has
architecture and unmistakable monuments, Paris
been a fixture in Paris since its opening in 1835.
is every bit as alluring and romantic as its
The hotel boasts an enviable location on Place
reputation. Grand palaces and magnificent
Vendôme, just a short walk from the Louvre, and
cathedrals are tempered by narrow, medieval
has long been popular with artists and writers. It
streets where cafes spill onto the pavements,
was here that Picasso celebrated his first
vibrant markets fill public squares and fabulously-
wedding and for 30 years Dalí was an annual
dressed people lend an air of unmistakably
visitor, regularly sitting in the bar drawing on
French style. It’s a city that embodies the essence
napkins. Those doodles are now brought to life
of French refinement with palatial museums
Arc de Triomphe, near Champs-Élysées in the form of sculptures dotted around the
housing priceless artworks, landmarks that seem
restaurant and lobby. Le Meurice has 160 rooms
reassuringly familiar, and a distinctly glamorous
The Right Bank and suites and was one the first hotels to receive
atmosphere that makes strolling the back streets
the coveted ‘palace’ distinction and has an air of
and quiet lanes as rewarding as visiting its The Right Bank of Paris, north of the Seine,
accessible elegance with work by some of
well-known attractions. The city is bisected by encompasses most of the city’s main monuments
history’s greatest artists dotted among the
the Seine River with the bohemian Left Bank, so starting in the west with the Arc de Triomphe,
extravagant Louis XVI-style furniture and fittings.
beloved by Sartre and Hemingway, contrasting the triumphal arch at the top of the grand
with the grand edifices of the more commercial Champs-Élysées, Paris’ most famous boulevard,
Right Bank. and heading east towards Place de la Concorde,
one of the city’s largest squares. From here the
Tuileries Gardens lead past grandiose terraces to
the Louvre, one of the world’s largest museums
set in a magnificent former royal palace. To the
north is art-filled Montmartre, its crooked
alleyways leading to hidden squares and the
Sacré-Coeur Basilica which enjoys commanding
views over the entire city. To the east is the
medieval Marais, one of Paris’ hippest districts,
home to the elegant Place des Vosges and a
swathe of trendy boutiques and galleries.
Place des Vosges, Marais Le Meurice, Palais-Royal

78
Street sign in Saint-Germain

Artists in Place du Tertre, Montmartre Sainte-Chapelle, Île de la Cité

The Left Bank


Bookshops, antique stores and specialist
boutiques vie for attention in leafy Saint-Germain
on Paris’ Left Bank, a bohemian district
renowned for its literary connections. A popular
hub for post-war intellectuals, it was once home
to Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Ernest
Hemingway and James Joyce. Today, many of the
cafes and brasseries where the literati would
meet still survive and a visit to Les Deux Magots,
Café de Flore and Brasserie Lipp allows you to
Interior of the Panthéon, the Left Bank
follow in the footsteps of giants. To the east of
Saint-Germain’s pretty cobbled streets is the
Islands on the Seine La Villa Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Saint-Germain
Latin Quarter, so named because in medieval
Geographically, historically and politically the times the scholars of La Sorbonne University, La Villa Saint-Germain-
heart of Paris, Île de la Cité is the larger of the which was located here, conversed primarily in des-Prés, Saint-Germain
two islands on the Seine. Its most renowned Latin. It is the heart of French academic life, and Located in the heart of Paris’ legendary literary
landmark is Notre-Dame Cathedral, begun in the known for its many museums and churches, district, the modern La Villa Saint-Germain-des-
12th century and still impressive today despite the including the Panthéon, now a secular Prés is surrounded by countless lively restaurants,
recent fire damage. Nearby, the Palais de Justice mausoleum where distinguished French citizens independent boutiques and little streets that can
was the primary residence of the French kings in are buried. be easily explored on foot. The Louvre and the
medieval times, its highlight the exquisite Musée d’Orsay are also close by, each about a 15
Sainte-Chapelle, a glittering chapel known for its minute walk from the hotel. Despite its bustling
spectacular stained glass windows. Here too is surroundings, the hotel itself is very tranquil and
the fortress-like Conciergerie where many provides a welcome retreat from the city. Chic
famous figures were imprisoned during the and stylish contemporary decor in the public
French Revolution. The second island, smaller areas is mirrored in the warm but minimalist
and quieter Île Saint-Louis, is quite a contrast. style of the 31 spacious rooms and suites. A
Tranquil and little visited, it is a charming slice of muted palette, charcoal drawings, bold wallpaper
hidden Paris and offers the chance to explore and black-and-white photographs from the 1930s
cobbled streets and romantic squares. give the rooms a charming individual style.
Café de Flore, Boulevard Saint-Germain

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 79


The Eiffel Tower, Champs de Mars

The Eiffel Tower The Louvre


As mesmerising today as it was when it was first Once the primary residence of the French kings
revealed, the Eiffel Tower is an enduring symbol and queens, after the Palais de Justice, the Louvre
of Paris. It was originally intended as a temporary is both a historic palace and an extensive
structure to mark the entrance to the World’s museum home to many celebrated artworks,
Fair in 1889 but quickly became a much-loved most notably Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Mona Lisa’.
landmark. Elevators connect the three floors of The vast scale of the building and its collection
the building, on the first is the main viewing deck, can be overwhelming with labyrinthine galleries
a few shops and Restaurant 58, while on the housing a staggering 35,000 works. The Louvre is
second floor you will find the Michelin-starred the world’s most visited museum and visitors will
Claude Monet’s
Jules Vernes Restaurant. The third floor can also wait in line outside from early morning. A guided house & gardens,
be visited for a bird’s eye view of Haussmann’s tour with an art historian ensures priority access Giverny
Parisian street plan which is particularly and offers an insight into the building’s long
impressive at night. Since the stroke of midnight history as well as an insider’s knowledge of the On the outskirts of Giverny, a small
on 31st December 1999, as soon as night falls on collection and its layout, quickly taking you to rural town an hour and a half north of
the city, the tower has sparkled for five minutes either the most significant works or those by Paris, lies the private home and gardens
every hour on the hour. artists that most interest you. of renowned artist Claude Monet who
lived here from 1883 until his death in
1926. The house is now a museum that
has been kept more or less intact with
pictures of his family scattered
throughout the bedrooms, studio and
kitchen. The gardens that surround the
house, although small, were the
inspiration for some of Monet’s most
familiar works, notably, the ‘Water Lilies’
series that depicts the Japanese pond
that he designed and built himself. The
original paintings are housed in the
Orangerie Museum in Paris.

View across the Seine to the Louvre

80
Hall of Mirrors in Versailles, near Paris

French royalty & the châteaux


In Frankish tradition the king was succeeded He also began the reconstruction of the
by all his sons which led to an elaborate Château du Louvre in Paris and following his
network of royal families in medieval France, imprisonment in Spain after the Battle of Pavia
each controlling a small feudal state. Flaunting in 1525 he returned to France with a plan to
your wealth and good taste through grand regain control of the capital. He decided
architectural projects was a common to make Paris his main residence and
preoccupation of the French monarchs transformed the former fortress at the Louvre
and today their grand châteaux stand as a into a Renaissance palace, starting the royal
testament to their formidable wealth art collection that still graces the walls of the
and power. museum to this day.

Only the 1,900-room Château de François I was succeeded by his son Henri II
Fontainebleau can boast a prolonged royal who maintained his Loire Valley connections
presence. Over seven centuries it hosted 34 Château de Chaumont, Loire Valley by housing his mistress, Diane de Poitiers, in
French kings who collectively transformed the the magnificent Château de Chenonceau but
12th-century hunting lodge into a magnificent As the kings of England laid claim to the when Henri II died in 1559, his vengeful wife
palace with vast grounds. French throne and the Hundred Years War Catherine de’ Medici forced his mistress to
(1337-1453) broke out, the French kings exchange the château for the less elaborate
became accustomed to living away from Paris, Château de Chaumont.
mainly in the Loire Valley. At the time
By the 17th century Louis XIV, the Sun King,
monarchs would typically travel from château
came to power and decided to move his
to château visiting prominent members of
whole court to Versailles on the outskirts of
nobility and high society, bringing all their
Paris. He set about transforming his father’s
worldly possessions with them from four
hunting lodge into a palace fit to house his
poster beds to treasure-filled trunks and
6,000 courtiers. With so many people to
enormous tapestries.
accommodate and no expense spared in his
During the reign of François I (1515–47), an attempts to impress, Louis XIV went about
enthusiastic patron of the arts and admirer of creating the most extravagant palace in
Renaissance style, many of the royal palaces in history. He employed the acclaimed artists
the Loire Valley were extended, rebuilt and and craftsmen of his day to adorn the most
redecorated by Italian artists and craftsmen. lavish state apartments and private chambers
François I poured vast amounts of money into of any of the French châteaux. The opulent
construction projects, most notably an palace served as the home and court of the
extravagant new Renaissance château at royal family until 1789, three years before the
Chambord. fall of the French monarchy.
Château de Fontainebleau, near Paris

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 81


Houses on the waterfront, Honfleur

Normandy medieval Bayeux, all of which offer a welcome


contrast to the solemnity of the D-Day beaches
A region of strategic importance throughout close by. The region attracted artists such as
history, Normandy stretches across the northern Turner and Monet who committed its drunken,
coast of France guarding the route between Paris half-timbered houses, narrow streets and bucolic
and the English Channel. Today, it matches apple orchards to canvas. Beyond the towns, the
historical grandeur with a timeless rural charm, mild climate makes the region ideal for
its lush landscape littered with historic sites such agriculture and Normandy is renowned for its
as the monastery island of Mont Saint-Michel, the soft, creamy cheeses and high quality apple
handsome old fishing port of Honfleur and liqueurs and cider.

A section of the Bayeux Tapestry

Bayeux & Honfleur


Thankfully untouched by the bombings of World
War II, Bayeux remains today the medieval
wonder it has always been. At its heart is the
imposing Notre-Dame Cathedral and the Bayeux
Tapestry which intricately depicts the events that
led to the Norman conquest of England by
William the Conqueror. It is also located close to
many of the D-Day landing sites. A little further
to the east is Honfleur, a small yet vibrant fishing
town lined with colourful half-timbered houses
facing the water which dates back to its conquest
by the Vikings. The roof of Saint-Catherine’s
church in the main square is in fact the hull of an
old Viking ship. Today the town is known for its
local markets and fresh seafood.
Mont Saint-Michel

82
D-Day beaches
The landings on 6th June 1944 along the
Normandy coast saw a decisive change in
the fight against Nazi Germany but they
came with devastating consequences. Today,
the sweeping beaches lie tranquil, bunkers
hidden in the dunes and memorials serve as
poignant reminders of the bravery and
sacrifice of those who fought here.

Each nation was designated a separate beach


– the Canadians at Juno, the British at Sword
and Gold, and the Americans at Omaha and
Utah. With the element of surprise on their
Pointe-du-Hoc Ranger Monument
side, the US 4th Infantry Division took Utah
Beach with only minor resistance. Inland, At Omaha Beach the battle was far more
Sainte-Mère-Église was one of the first brutal. The 29th and 1st Infantry Divisions,
villages to be liberated and a visit to the along with US Army Rangers, found
Airborne Museum tells the tale of the themselves in terrifying conditions with
American paratroopers who landed here. unexpectedly large numbers of German
troops inflicting heavy causalities. Above the
beach is the American Cemetery, where rows
and rows of white marble crosses stretch
endlessly across manicured lawns, while at
Pointe-du-Hoc, just west of Omaha, you can
see gun pits and bunkers surrounded by
ground pitted with bomb craters. This
strategic promontory was captured by the US
Army Ranger Assault Group who scaled the
US Airborne memorial window, Sainte-Mère-Église steep cliffs. Statue at Utah Beach Landing Museum

Château la Chenevière, Cheese & Calvados


Port-en-Bessin, near Bayeux
Driving through rural Normandy you’ll be struck
Situated in the heart of Normandy and set in
by the abundance of lush green fields, spotted
vast grounds, La Chenevière is an 18th-century
cows and apple orchards. The region is
mansion that exudes historic charm. It
renowned for its creamy speciality cheeses and
successfully combines period grandeur with an
fine Calvados, an apple brandy. The local breed
intimate atmosphere and makes an appealing
of cow, the speckled Normande, produces rich
base for exploring the Normandy countryside,
milk which is the key ingredient in cheeses such
the D-Day beaches or nearby Bayeux.
as Camembert, Pavé d’Auge, Livarot, Pont
Alternatively, you can stroll through the rose
l’Evêque and Neufchatel. Traditional processes
garden or walled garden, swim in the secluded
are kept alive through the restrictions involved in
pool or play tennis. Throughout, the decor is
winning the prestigious AOC appellation which is
elegantly refined, the building’s grand
Hotel le Dauphin les Loges, Honfleur about much more than the product’s place of
proportions teamed with understated
origin. In the case of Calvados it is the distilling,
contemporary luxuries which is also reflected in
Hotel le Dauphin les Loges, ageing and fermentation processes and, of
its 29 rooms and suites.
Honfleur course, the terroir (the character of the soil).
The family-run Hotel le Dauphin les Loges is
spread across four 17th-century houses and 34
rooms and suites with half-timbered façades or
slate tiles typical of Normandy. It has a prime
location in the heart of old Honfleur directly
across from Saint Catherine’s Church and is a
short walk from the Vieux Bassin (old port) with
its brightly painted fishing boats and busy
restaurants and cafes. Warm and friendly service
is a priority at the Hotel le Dauphin les Loges
and as your suitcases are whisked up the very
narrow staircases to your room, you can sit and
relax in the breakfast room which transforms
into a tea salon in the afternoon. The rustic yet
modern rooms are small but full of character.
Château la Chenevière, Port-en-Bessin near Bayeux Calvados, Honfleur

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 83


Vineyards by the Château de Chinon, Loire Valley

Loire Valley Le Clos d’Amboise


Once a 17th century family home, Le Clos
Bordering the Atlantic on the western coast of
d’Amboise expertly retains the same elegance
France and within striking distance of Paris, the
and tradition it undoubtedly enjoyed during its
lush Loire Valley was the chosen home of the
heyday. Quiet reading rooms, warm fireplaces
French court for centuries. It’s a bucolic region
and creaking floorboards give the impression of
with a languid charm where illustrious châteaux,
visiting the home of a family friend. Rich
lavish gardens and tales of political intrigue
tapestries line the corridors, chandeliers dangle
abound. It was here that the French nobility once
from the beamed ceilings and there is the
flaunted their wealth, power and architectural
Chapel ceiling detail, Château d’Amboise occasional touch of the exotic in the Egyptian art
prowess and the sheer number of châteaux
on the walls. The 20 rooms and suites are just as
makes it an unmissable destination. Nearly as
Amboise & Chinon welcoming with subtle shades of red, yellow or
many award-winning vineyards and wine cellars
blue in the fabrics and hints of gold in the antique
pepper the Loire, in an area known as the The enchanting medieval towns of Amboise and
lamps and mirrors. There is also space to relax
‘Garden of France’ which is renowned for Chinon make a good base while exploring the
with a drink in the intimate library or the tranquil
producing some of the country’s finest wines and Loire Valley’s many extravagant châteaux, as well
courtyard. Alternatively, the heart of medieval
most delectable goat’s cheese. With such as offering their own grand castles with
Amboise is just a ten-minute walk away.
architectural glories and rich gastronomy, the connections to significant historical figures.
Loire is one of France’s most rewarding regions Elegant Amboise is dominated by its imposing
to visit. 15th-century chateau which is set on an
escarpment above the town. Once the
playground of Charles VIII, it is also the final
resting place of Leonardo da Vinci who is buried
in the castle’s flamboyant Gothic chapel. You can
also visit da Vinci’s grand manor house, Le Clos
Lucé, nearby. Chinon, another impressive
medieval town of wandering cobbled laneways,
boasts a towering fortress, the venue for Joan of
Arc’s first meeting with Charles VII. Along with
rooms decorated in period style, the château
hosts a museum dedicated to the French
heroine.
Le Clos Lucé, Amboise Le Clos d’Amboise

84
Chinon, Loire Valley

Château d’Amboise, Loire Valley Canoe on the Loire, Amboise

Loire Valley wine


Wine has been produced in the Loire since
the 1st century and the valley’s rich traditions
and strict rules have earned it a reputation
as one of France’s premier wine regions.
A wonderful way to learn about the
winemaking process is to visit the local
Domaine de la Tortinière, Veigné
vineyards, many of which welcome visitors.

Domaine de la Tortinière, As you walk through the vineyards you will


Veigné, Loire Valley see the varieties of grape cultivated and hear
The towering trees that line the private drive about the detailed regulations that control
leading up to this imposing 19 th-century château planting and pruning. Then you can explore
are the first indication of the grandeur and the production areas and learn about the
bottling and ageing process and have a Harvesting grapes, Loire Valley
heritage that this property possesses. Built in
elaborate, romantic style with lofty turrets and tutored tasting with a guide who will point
Some producers, such as Château Gaudrelle,
sweeping steps, Domaine de la Tortinière has the out how each wine is affected by the
exploit the controlled environment of old
air of a stately yet intimate family home with conditions in which its grapes grew.
limestone quarries to ensure the right
impeccable service. Inside the château and its 30
conditions for carbonation. The quarry
rooms and suites, you’ll find wood-panelling,
galleries are filled with rows of unlabelled
elegant checked or patterned fabric on the walls,
bottles and oak barrels slowly ageing as part
large wood beams, antique furnishings and
of the méthode traditionnelle, a double
inviting fireplaces. The château has a small spa
fermentation process.
and a restaurant in the main building called
L’Orangerie, both of which offer far-reaching Finally it’s worth visiting a négociant (wine
views across the park. L’Orangerie serves an merchant) who can hone your olfactory
extensive menu of refined seasonal dishes. senses, teach you when to choose a
Domaine de la Tortinière is just a half an hour particular vintage, and how to properly taste
drive away from one of the most well-known Limestone cave, Loire Valley a wine to appreciate its complexities.
sites in the Loire, Château de Chenonceau.

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 85


Boats moored in Saint-Tropez, the French Riviera

Château de la Chèvre
d’Or, Èze
Set across a series of weathered stone buildings
that cling to the hillside in the charming cobbled
town of Èze, Château de la Chèvre d’Or
provides a medieval village experience with all
the trappings of a five-star stay. The hotel is a
member of the esteemed Relais & Châteaux
hotel group and commands a superb location
overlooking Cap Ferrat and the Mediterranean.
Paintings for sale, Saint-Tropez The 38 rooms and suites are spread across
original houses in the tiny village, each one
The French Riviera unique in design and style. There are four
restaurants to choose from offering fine dining in
White-sand beaches lapped by impossibly blue
exquisite surroundings to more casual meals with
water, glamorous towns packed with exclusive
superb views. The hotel also features a medieval
hotels and designer boutiques, and, set into the
bar, a pool overlooking the sea and a spa. Château de la Chèvre d’Or, Èze
hills, Belle Époque mansions and tiny medieval
villages lost in time; it’s no wonder the French
Riviera has been attracting those with the means
to travel for centuries. Whether you choose to
laze on a sun-lounger in glitzy Saint-Tropez or
visit the beaches of Paloma or Pampelonne, take
to the water on a boat trip or watch the players
at the roulette tables in the Monte Carlo Casino,
the French Riviera exudes a sophistication that
transcends every notion of French style. Beyond
the gilded halls however, lie far more subtle
charms from the rambling lanes of Nice’s
atmospheric old town to the lavender, jasmine
and rose fields of perfume capital Grasse and the
impossibly quaint hilltop villages such as Èze.
Rooftops of Èze, the French Riviera

86
Fresh seafood, Nice Place Masséna in the old town, Nice
Havesting rose petals, Grasse

Evening sea view, Nice Place aux Aires, Grasse

The perfumeries of Grasse


Grasse, a town located in the hills behind Cannes
on the French Riviera, is said to be the ‘world
capital of perfume’ due to its thriving industry
which began in earnest at the end of the 18 th
century. It actually originated even earlier than
this, as a way to mask the odour coming from
the tanneries. To this day, Grasse still produces
the majority of France’s natural scents which are
then used by major brands such as Dior. It is here
that ‘noses’ (or ‘nez’) from all over the world Monaco
come to train in the art of perfume making.
The world’s second smallest country,
These highly skilled artisans can distinguish by
Monaco is a tiny principality reigned
smell alone over 200 different varieties of scent
over by the Grimaldi family since 1297.
and often use locally produced lavender, jasmine La Bastide Saint-Antoine, Grasse
The town tumbles down a steep hillside
and roses. We can arrange guided tours of the
to a glittering bay littered with super
Fragonard perfumery workshop where you will La Bastide Saint-Antoine,
yachts and is renowned as a tax haven
be given an introduction into how a perfume is Grasse
and beloved by high rollers. Its
made and the traditional techniques used. Situated just outside Grasse and surrounded by
extravagant Casino de Monte Carlo is
cypress and olive trees, La Bastide Saint Antoine,
set in a lavish Belle Époque building and
a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux
is worth a visit. Monaco Ville is the most
group, is a delightful manor house hotel laid out
scenic part of town with its twisting
like a private home with 16 rooms. This late
medieval streets and 13th-century royal
17th-century Provençal property has been
palace. Here you can see the state
renovated and expanded over time but was once
apartments and the daily changing of
the preferred holiday home of Joseph P. Kennedy.
the guard. Also in the old town is the
La Bastide Saint-Antoine also boasts a Michelin-
18 th-century Saint Nicholas Cathedral,
starred restaurant with a dedicated sommelier, a
most famous as the burial place of the
large outdoor pool, multiple outdoor seating
Princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly.
areas and intimate indoor areas featuring unique
artworks.
Nez training notes, Fragonard perfumery

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 87


Lavender fields in bloom, Provence

Provence Roman Provence


Swathed with lavender fields, dotted with The site of the first Roman settlements in Gaul,
medieval hilltop villages and graced by elegant Provence is littered with Roman ruins from
cities, the southeastern region of Provence elaborate amphitheatres and aqueducts to
stretches from the Rhône to the Italian border bathing houses and basilicas. Most impressive of
and south to the Mediterranean. It’s a highly all is the colossal Pont-du-Gard, a towering
picturesque area that captivated artists such as 2,000-year-old aqueduct built as part of an
Cézanne and Van Gogh and was the site of Julius elaborate network of canals that brought water
Caesar’s first Gaulish conquest. Rome’s presence through the region. To the north, Orange boasts
here is indelible, the Pont-du-Gard aqueduct is a colossal Roman theatre, one of the best
Palais des Papes, Avignon
the highlight among the many ancient Roman preserved in the world, while near Saint-Rémy,
sites. Later, the seat of the Catholic Church the ruined Gallo-Roman city of Glanum offers a
moved from Rome to Avignon where it
Avignon & Aix-en-Provence triumphal arch and pathways flanked by houses,
remained for over 100 years, and helped by the Situated on the Rhône River and surrounded in baths and temples with elements that date back
region’s unique climate, began to develop what part by large medieval city walls, Avignon is to the Hellenistic period. Reminders of Arles’
was to become one of the world’s most brimming with history. Having spent the better time as the capital of Roman Gaul litter the town
prestigious wines, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The portion of the 14th century as the capital of the but the most impressive by far is the enormous
warm, earthy wine is produced in the historic Roman Catholic Church and seat of the Pope, it and well-preserved Roman arena which was built
vineyards that surround the popes’ original is home to the Palais des Papes (Papal Palace) in about 90 AD with a capacity for 21,000
14th-century summer residence. and the medieval Pont d’Avignon. Southeast of spectators.
Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, which was once a
Roman colony was the region’s capital during the
Middle Ages. Throughout the centuries it has
been a hub of culture with some of its former
residents including artist Paul Cézanne and writer
Émile Zola. The city’s main boulevard, Cours
Mirabeau, is lined with 18 th-century mansions and
Vieil Aix (Old Aix) is a warren of streets
complete with shops and bistros. The local
specialty is calissons, a sweet treat similar to
marzipan and made from candied fruit paste.
Bottles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Provence Pont-du-Gard aqueduct, Provence

88
Sunflowers for sale, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

Hilltop village of Gordes Ochre pathway, Roussillon

Hilltop villages Hotel de l’Atelier,


Villeneuve-lès-Avignon
Littered with rocky outcrops that provided a
Once a 16th-century silk workshop, the family
strategic defensive position in medieval times,
owned L’Atelier is intimate and traditional and
Provence is known for its profusion of hilltop
covered in creeping vines. From its stone spiral
villages. One of the most romantic to visit is
staircase to its roaring fireplace, exposed beams,
Gordes, a tiny place that cascades down a giant
grandfather clocks and antique furniture, this
chalky hillside, its narrow cobbled lanes and
property exudes Provençal character. The 22
handsome stone houses surrounding an 11th-
rooms are simple yet full of local charm. There is
century castle. Scenic Roussillon stands alone on
also a delightful inner courtyard with a few tables
a ridge surrounded by a surreal landscape of
and chairs where guests can enjoy breakfast or
deep ochre cliffs and verdant pines, while
an evening drink in the shade. Located across the
Saint-Remy-de-Provence, at the foot of the La Bastide de Gordes river from bustling Avignon in the village of
Alpilles, has winding cobbled laneways flanked by
Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, it is a quieter base yet
art galleries and gourmet restaurants as well as La Bastide de Gordes
still central. The village itself is also a delight to
significant Roman ruins. Different again is Perched along the terraced hillside of Gordes
explore, with plenty of local restaurants and
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the ‘Venice of Provence’, with commanding views over the Lubéron, La
independent shops on the surrounding streets.
which is set over a series of canals and renowned Bastide de Gordes is a lovely 18 th-century
for its antique shops, little bridges and warren of Provençal château boasting prestigious ‘palace’
quaint streets. distinction. Occupying a large section of the
village, the property is dotted with cypress and
olive trees and has an exquisite outdoor heated
swimming pool and garden. The 41 rooms are
styled in keeping with the region with wood-
beamed ceilings, terracotta tiles or parquet
flooring and antique furniture. There are also
two restaurants, among them the Restaurant
Peir which serves upscale Provençal cuisine and
boasts two Michelin stars. As well as being a
romantic escape with an inviting spa, it’s also a
family-friendly destination with cooking classes
and guided hikes on offer.
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Hotel de l’Atelier, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 89


Sunflowers, lavender and beehives, near Roussillon

Provençal produce
Provençal landscape Olive oil
For many, Provence is the France of the Most of France’s olive oil production comes
imagination. Its warm, earthy tones, lush from Provence, and countless olive groves
vineyards, vibrant lavender fields, hilltop pepper the landscape. It was the Greeks who
villages and handsome farmhouses seem introduced the crop as far back as 600 BC
reassuringly familiar. Provence, however, is an with the trees flourishing in the dry climate.
incredibly diverse place sweeping down from The olive oil produced here is quite distinctive
jagged mountains to deep river canyons, in taste and prized by culinary experts. You’ll
rugged national parks and fiery rock find oils with a hint of garlic or rosemary as
formations through marshy wetlands to a well as traditional extra virgin and lighter oils.
magnificent coastline. It is a rich and fertile Many of the mills have been run by the same
region worked by people with a deep families for generations and some welcome
appreciation of its timeless rural charm and visitors to see the production process. Green
high quality produce. This makes it a olives are generally harvested between
fascinating place to explore, to walk through September and November before they are
the fields and breathe the richly scented air, fully ripe, while black olives are harvested
discover the rhythm of daily life and the later, generally not earlier than December.
Olive oil, Aix-en-Provence
long-standing traditions of the region.
Truffles
Lavender fields One of the most expensive and revered food
Visit between June and mid-August and you’ll stuffs in the world, truffles are so valuable
be treated to the glorious sight of long rows because they are so rare. A fungus that grows
of deep purple lavender winding their way below ground, the truffle occurs naturally in
across the hillsides of Provence. Lavender is chalky soils, often around the roots of oak or
ideally suited to this dry, rocky region and has hazelnut trees, but is notoriously difficult to
been cultivated here since Roman times. The find. Despite much research, its symbiotic
most famous spot to see the fields in full relationship with its host is little understood
bloom is in front of the Abbey de Sénanque which makes it near impossible to farm.
which provides a picturesque backdrop to the Truffle hunters have to rely on their
rows of fragrant flowers. However, more judgement, specially-trained dogs, and
secluded fields can be found along the scenic sometimes pigs, and sheer luck to find their
driving routes across the region. You’ll see quarry. In Provence the truffle season runs
bunches of lavender for sale in local markets from November to mid-March when you’ll
and used in cosmetics, perfumes, soaps and find the dark, sweet and rich fungi on the
cleaning products. Local honey made by bees menu in many local restaurants. Most prized
that are kept among the lavender also carries of all is the rare ‘Black Diamond’, a black
Truffles, near Avignon its distinctive scent. truffle with a marbled white interior.

90
Coverered traboule passageway, Vieux Lyon Cellier du Rhône wine, Côtes du Rhône wine region Selection of cheeses, Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse

Oyster seller in Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse Diners at a traditional bouchon, Lyon

Lyon
The gastronomic capital of France, Lyon is the
country’s third largest city and is renowned for
its fine food, lively cultural scene and diverse
architecture. The city sits at the confluence of
the Rhône and Saône rivers and was first settled
by the Romans. Much like Paris, Lyon is divided
into ‘arrondissements’, or districts, and is best
discovered on foot. The Presqu’île district has a
sophisticated Parisian feel, while Vieux Lyon
reveals its roots with covered passageways Cour des Loges Hotel, Lyon
Landscape of the Rhône-Alpes region
known as traboules, built so that precious locally
made silks could be transported without getting Cour des Loges Hotel, Lyon
Rhône-Alpes region
them wet. The city is home to a number of Set in a series of buildings dating from the 14th
Often referred to as the Tuscany of France, the Michelin-starred restaurants as well as rustic to the 17th centuries, previously the home of a
Rhône-Alpes region is known for its bucolic bouchons, traditional Lyonnais bistros that hark wealthy banker and then a school, the Cour des
countryside, rolling hills and medieval stone back to the 17th century when they provided Loges Hotel sits in the heart of Lyon’s old town.
villages. It’s a particularly diverse region with the food and rest to visiting silk merchants. It also The hotel blends all the indulgences and lavish
crystal-clear waters and limestone cliffs of Lac boasts a renowned daily market and Les Halles designs of the Renaissance with contemporary
d’Annecy to the north, the towering peaks of the de Lyon - Paul Bocuse, an indoor food market comforts and cocooned among the numerous
Alps to the east, and the sun-drenched hills of with an international reputation. courtyards, stairways, patios and balconies are a
Burgundy to the North. Lyon, France’s series of 61 individually styled rooms. Some are
gastronomic capital, is here, its striking decorated in romantic period style, others are
architecture and reputation for fine food making more modern and restrained. Somehow, the
it well worth a visit. Mont Blanc, the highest hotel has also managed to fit in hanging gardens,
mountain in Europe, and the glamorous an indoor pool and spa, as well as a Michelin-
mountain resort of Chamonix offer challenging starred restaurant set in an internal courtyard.
hiking and dramatic mountain views, while the There’s also a more casual cafe, a cooking school
centuries-old Côtes du Rhône wineries line the and a rooftop garden. As a guest you can expect
banks of the Rhône River which meanders to relax in regal style with the finest food and
through the heart of the region. impeccable service throughout.
Place des Terreaux in the Presqu’île district, Lyon

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 91


Annecy town

Lac d’Annecy & Chamonix Hôtel Beau-Site Talloires,


Lac d’Annecy
Known as Europe’s cleanest lake, turquoise Lac
There is something very special about the
d’Annecy is set against a backdrop of rugged
location of the Hôtel Beau-Site Talloires, a
alpine peaks. The lake and its surroundings are
lakefront hotel on Lac d’Annecy with dramatic
ideal for swimming, hiking and cycling and the
views of the water and Annecy town. With lawns
picturesque town of Annecy makes a scenic base.
running down to the waterfront and mature
Riddled with canals lined by 16th- and 17th-
trees to shade the deckchairs and safari-style
century buildings, Annecy offers a lively cafe and
canvas over the outdoor dining area, it feels like
restaurant scene, a medieval castle and a maze of
the best of both worlds and is just 15 minutes’
winding cobbled streets. Just over an hour to the
drive from Annecy itself. Inside, the design is
east lies Chamonix, a bustling town that came to
Views of Mont Blanc warm and welcoming with contemporary decor
international attention in 1924 when it hosted
combined with period features. The 32 rooms
the first winter Olympics. The typically alpine
Hiking near Mont Blanc are individually styled and set across two
village lies in the shadow of Mont Blanc and is
buildings; some offer balconies and others
best known as a base for skiers, climbers and Mont Blanc and the surrounding peaks offer
children’s beds. There is a good restaurant, a
hikers with a host of high-end shops and some of the most dramatic hiking trails in
children’s play area, boats and electric bikes to
restaurants to serve its year-round visitors. Europe. Although the mountain itself, the highest
rent and a great choice of walking trails nearby.
in the Alps, requires technical climbing skills and
experience, the trails around it offer accessible
but challenging hiking with glorious views in
every direction. A private guide leads you
through the more accessible paths, close to the
small alpine town of Chamonix, through the
trees to a high clearing with views of centuries-
old glaciers and the towering peaks of the French
Alps. Here, you can rest and enjoy a picnic of
local cheese, bread, fresh fruit and wine while
your guide explains the topography and how it
has changed over the years. Your return route
will take you you past an isolated black lake, le
Lac Noir, as you trek back down the mountain.
View of Lac d’Annecy from Talloires village Hôtel Beau-Site Talloires, Lac d’Annecy

92
Vineyards around Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux region

French wine
Wine in France is a serious business and the Bordeaux, the Médoc & Saint-Émilion
techniques used to produce it are strictly Located in the southwest of France, in the
controlled so as to maintain its quality. The Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, is the Bordeaux
delicate ecosystem that surrounds the vines wine region. This appellation is one of the
and supports their growth, the terroir, is of largest in France and includes the Médoc
vital importance, particularly as irrigation is towards the Atlantic coast along the Gironde
highly regulated. Wine producers here are estuary and all the way east to Saint-Émilion
therefore reliant on the whims of nature, and along the right bank of the Dordogne River.
one bad summer could destroy a harvest. As Bordeaux has drawn international acclaim for
the terroir varies greatly from region to producing full bodied red wines using
region, so too does the wine. Certain regions primarily blends of merlot, cabernet sauvignon
of France naturally provide those elements and cabernet franc grapes. It is home to many
that promote the growth of healthy grapes renowned labels as well as smaller family-run
such as hilly landscapes that get more sun, a châteaux, many of whom possess the coveted
rich soil and a climate that isn’t prone to too AOC label (Protected Designation of Origin)
much, or too little, rain. Although there are and some, the even more prestigious, Premier
many areas of France that produce high Grand Crus Classé label. You can tour these
areas with your own guide or join a small Cabernet sauvignon grapes, Médoc
quality wines, such as Sancerre in the Loire
Valley or Châteauneuf-du-Pape in Provence, guided group, or explore by bike from the
is a must, but to go one step further and
here are two of our preferred regions and the medieval town of Saint-Émilion.
combine a tour of Burgundy with Beaujolais to
best ways to experience them.
Burgundy & Beaujolais the south, closer to Lyon, really adds depth.
Certainly one of the country’s most The Beaujolais wine region primarily grows
celebrated wine regions, Burgundy is set along the gamay grape. It is also known for its very
the Saône River in the Rhône Valley in the young red wines, the Beaujolais Nouveau,
east of France. This area is known for its pinot which is unique in that it is only fermented for
noir red wines and its chardonnay whites. To a couple of weeks after harvest and then
the east of the river is the prestigious Côte drunk immediately. The release of this young
d’Or area of Burgundy which is home to some vintage is a much anticipated and celebrated
of its most celebrated vintages and AOC event. A tour through this region contrasts
appellations, among them Gevrey- well with one in Burgundy, as it focuses more
Chambertin, Clos Vougeot and Montrachet. on smaller family-run domaines where you
A visit to these châteaux with a private guide can talk with the owners themselves.
Harvest at Maison Louis Latour, Côte d’Or

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 93


Place de la Bourse, Bordeaux

Bordeaux Cap Ferret & the Bassin


A young, vibrant and dynamic city with a wealth
d’Arcachon boat tour
of neoclassical architecture, Bordeaux is the The capital of French oyster farming and a region
capital of Nouvelle-Aquitaine and the hub of an of tiny villages, pine forests and massive dunes,
extensive wine region. It is also the world’s the Bassin d’Arcachon lies just an hour and a half
largest urban UNESCO World Heritage Site from Bordeaux. Exploring the lagoon-like bay by
with wide boulevards flanked by grand, 18 th- private boat with an English-speaking skipper
century mansions, grandiose squares and offers views of the Dune du Pyla, Europe’s tallest
numerous museums. The cathedral, which dates sand dunes, and an insight into the age-old
from 1096, the elaborate Grand Théâtre, and tradition of oyster farming with visits to the tiny
the perfectly proportioned Place de la Bourse villages of l’Herbe and Le Canon on Cap Ferret.
are just some of its highlights, with the serene Le Boutique Hotel, Bordeaux Here, narrow lanes are lined with brightly painted
Garonne River leading out of the city to rolling cottages festooned with flowers. Stop to try
fields of vineyards. The expansive Bordeaux wine Le Boutique Hotel, Bordeaux some local oysters and white wine in a traditional
region reaches as far as the Médoc to the Once an 18th-century mansion owned by a waterfront ‘cabane’ and then visit local houses
northwest and encompasses Saint-Émilion, a minister of King Louis XVIII, Le Boutique Hotel is built on stilts to accommodate the rising tides.
medieval hilltop town renowned for its fine a stylish refuge found right in the heart of
wines. Easily accessed by fast train from Paris, Bordeaux. Boasting a great location within a few
Bordeaux offers French sophistication as well as minutes’ walk of the Triangle d’Or and a leisurely
cutting-edge innovation. 15 minute walk to the Garonne River, visitors
don’t have to wander far to see the sights. The
27 rooms and suites are found within the three
structures that make up the building and frame
an intimate courtyard. Rooms vary in size and
character but all have traditional, tall, French
windows that allow for an abundance of natural
light and many also have high ceilings. While
there is no restaurant, Le Boutique Hotel boasts
a wine bar in its interior courtyard where guests
are able to taste different Bordeaux wines and
enjoy tapas in the evening.
Restaurant terrace, Bordeaux Oysters for sale, Bassin d’Arcachon

94
Waterfront cabane in Le Canon, Bassin d’Arcachon Landscape of the Bassin d’Arcachon Kayaks on the Dordogne by Château de Beynac

Sarlat-la-Canéda, Dordogne Depiction of an auroch, Lascaux Caves

La Villa Romaine, Dordogne


Reminiscent of a Roman stone villa in the heart
of the Tuscan landscape, La Villa Romaine exudes
the same tranquillity and elegance but with an
intrinsically French atmosphere. Cyprus trees line
the contours of the three buildings, the terrace
and the swimming pool which also boasts views
of the Dordogne valley below. Located just a few
miles outside of Sarlat, on the banks of the
Dordogne River, this boutique property is ideally Drawing of a mammoth and an ox, Pech Merle Cave
La Roque-Gageac on the Dordogne River placed to explore the region while offering a
quiet refuge from the busy towns and historical Prehistoric Caves
Dordogne sites close by. The onsite spa is well-equipped
The Dordogne is a region internationally
and the restaurant is open for breakfast and
Elaborate châteaux, handsome fortified towns renowned for its expansive collection of well-
dinner only, serving local seasonal dishes with
and sturdy fortresses dot the lush hills of the preserved prehistoric cave art and artefacts. The
both indoor and outdoor seating. The 17
Dordogne, a region with a rich history and a most well known are the Lascaux Caves where,
air-conditioned rooms and suites are spacious
reputation for fine food. The Dordogne valley is in order to preserve the original, a faithful
with a modern twist. They can offer views of the
a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and the reproduction has been made for visitors to enter.
park, the courtyard or the pool and are suitable
Dordogne River and its tributary the Vézère It is still well worth seeing because they represent
both for couples and families.
have sustained life since Palaeolithic times, with some of the most intricate in the region dating
the cave paintings at Lascaux, Rouffignac and back nearly 20,000 years. For original artwork,
Pech Merle a legacy of its earliest inhabitants. the Rouffignac Cave showcases large paintings on
At the heart of the region is Sarlat-la-Canéda, a its walls which you can view from the safety of an
well-preserved medieval town which makes a underground train accompanied by a local expert
good base from which to explore. Canoe down who brings to life these early depictions of
the river past Château de Beynac, Château de mammoths, bison and ibex. The Pech Merle Cave
Castelnaud and La Roque-Gageac, a troglodyte contains the oldest prehistoric cave paintings in
village built into the river cliffs, feast on local the region, with artwork dating back nearly
duck, goat’s cheese, walnuts and prunes, and 30,000 years. It also contains some impressive
pore over market stalls for some of the region’s geological rock formations making it doubly
finest produce. interesting for visitors.
La Villa Romaine, Dordogne

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 95


Portsmouth

Bayeux Honfleur
Caen
Saint-Malo

Self-drive through
Normandy
Enjoy the northern coast of France on this
quick-paced itinerary, which focuses on local
culture and Britain’s involvement with the Allies
on D-Day, while staying in quaint towns and
villages throughout Normandy.
View of the Sacré-Cœur Basilica from Place du Tertre, Paris
Day 1 In Portsmouth, board an overnight
ferry for France.
Tailoring your trip Day 2 Settle into your hotel in Saint-Malo
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a and get to know the town on
your own.
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that
work particularly well. We can use these as a Day 3 Leave Saint-Malo for Bayeux, with a
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely stop at the fortified island monastery
of Mont Saint-Michel.
different itinerary to suit your tastes and
interests. Please call one of our France Day 4 With your private driver-guide,
specialists to start planning your trip. explore the British D-Day landing
sites, including Gold and Sword
T 01993 683 338 beaches.

Men playing pétanque, France Day 5 Head east for Honfleur, pausing
Getting around along the way to explore the history
of Calvados making, followed by a
The two main international airports in France are When to go tasting. In the evening, ramble
located in Paris: Charles de Gaulle and Paris Orly. through Honfleur on your own.
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Nice airport on the French Riviera is also a main
3 3 3 33 33 33 33 3 33 33 3 3
Day 6 Drive to Caen for your ferry back
international hub offering daily flights to the U.S. to England.
and further afield. Regional airports, such as 33 The best time to travel.
Marseille in Provence, connect easily with 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. Stay longer
destinations throughout Europe. Once you have France, particularly the cities, can be enjoyed all Extend your time in France with a jaunt south to
landed, the best way to travel across the country year round, but the country is at its best from the Loire Valley for wine tasting amid Renaissance
is by train. France has a high quality rail network April to July and September to October. Overall, chateaux, or delve more deeply into Normandy’s
World War II history with tours of the American
where you will find the TGV fast trains, as well as France has a mild climate, but regional variations
and Canadian landing sites.
local TER and Intercité trains. Finally, a great way include warm dry weather in the south and
to explore the countryside is by car with a wetter weather in the north near the English
private driver or driver-guide. In Paris, the Métro Channel. In August most of the country closes
public transit system is the fastest and most down to chase the sunshine in the south.
convenient way to travel. However, the city is November to February are our preferred times
small enough that walking from place to place is to explore Paris, as the crowds are fewer yet the
often manageable and an absolute joy. restaurants are still lively with local people.
Time difference: GMT+1 hour

Prices
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
for your trip to France on our website,
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
your plans.
The Dordogne

96
Suggested itineraries
London
Portsmouth Portsmouth

Paris
Saint-Malo

Caen

France Santa
Margherita
Ligure
Portofino

Amboise Bordeaux Sarlat Italy


Nice
Cinque Terre

Loire Valley Self-drive Self-drive Bordeaux & French & Italian


One of France’s best-known wine regions, the the Dordogne Rivieras by Rail
Loire Valley boasts world-class vintages and a Visit one of France’s largest and most celebrated Sunshine and local heritage are the hallmarks of
wealth of history. On this trip, you’ll have the wine regions and sample its culinary heritage with this journey along the French and Italian Rivieras.
opportunity to indulge in some wine tasting, of gourmet walking tours and a wine-blending class. This well-rounded itinerary leads you to some of
course, as well as exploring French heritage at Don’t be fooled, though, as it’s not all food and the most photogenic villages on the
some of the most important chateaux in the wine in this area: you’ll also visit some historical Mediterranean, preceded by a few nights in Paris
region and soaring over the countryside by hot air chateaux and experience the prehistoric history to experience the capital in a different light.
balloon at sunset. of the Dordogne.
Day 1 When you arrive in Paris off the
Day 1 From Portsmouth, board the Day 1 Board the overnight ferry from Eurostar, you’ll meet your private
overnight ferry to France. Portsmouth to the north coast driver who’ll take you to your hotel.
Day 2 After arriving in Caen, drive south of France. Enjoy the afternoon exploring on
to Amboise. your own.
Day 2 From Saint-Malo, drive south to
Day 3 With a private driver-guide, enjoy a Bordeaux with a stop along the way Day 2 In the morning, a private driver will
full day of wine tasting in the for a guided walking tour in Angers. take you to the 18th arrondissement
Loire Valley. to enjoy the Saint-Ouen antiques
Day 3 A private food-focused walking tour,
market. In the evening, take a
Day 4 Drive to two of the Loire Valley’s including a visit to a cheese-aging
wine-and-cheese pairing class at
medieval chateaux – the lesser- cave, lets you explore Bordeaux’s
Bouillon Racine.
known Chaumont-sur-Loire and the culinary traditions. In the afternoon,
renowned Château de Chambord. learn to blend wine at a hands-on Day 3 Board a train to Nice.
workshop.
Day 5 In the morning, enjoy a cruise up the Day 4 Join a cooking school for the day,
River Cher toward Château de Day 4 Leave Bordeaux and drive to Sarlat with a trip to the local market
Chenonceau. In the evening, watch in the Dordogne. followed by a cooking lesson.
the sunset from a hot-air balloon. Day 5 Cruise along a subterranean river in Day 5 Your private driver will take you to
Day 6: Leave the Loire Valley and drive the Padirac Cave, visit a cliff-side Villefranche-sur-Mer and Èze, villages
north back to Caen for your ferry church and Black Madonna in the considered jewels of the Riviera.
back to England. village of Rocamadour, and enjoy a
Day 6 Take the train across the Italian
tasting of goat’s cheese on a
border to Santa Margherita Ligure.
Stay longer small farm.
We’ll offer suggestions for what to
Spend a few more days in the Loire to see more Day 6 Visit Château des Milandes, a do in the afternoon.
vineyards or include a few nights in Bordeaux to 15th-century castle where Josephine
Day 7 With a guide, explore the brightly
explore another wine region. You could also add Baker lived in the 1940s, then spend
painted coastal villages of the
a few nights in Paris before returning to the UK. some time rambling through the
Cinque Terre.
Gardens of Marqueyssac.
Day 8 Tour the fashionable port town of
Day 7 Drive back to Bordeaux – we’ll
Portofino, bright and cheerful
offer suggestions for your last night
Camogli, and tiny San Fruttuoso with
in the city.
a private guide.
Day 8 Return to Saint-Malo to catch your
Day 9 Begin your journey north on a train
ferry back to England.
that travels through Genoa, Nice
and finally to Paris, where a driver
Stay longer
will take you to your hotel.
You can stay longer in Bordeaux to visit the wine
regions in the Medoc and Saint-Emilion or in the Day 10 A private driver will bring you from
Dordogne to visit the prehistoric caves typical of your hotel to the Eurostar as you
head home.
the area.

Stay longer
You can linger in Paris or spend a few more nights
on the French Riviera in Nice or Antibes for
relaxation on the beach.
Shuttered window in Gordes, Provence

www.audleytravel.com/france • 01993 683 338 • France 97


Germany
B oasting a proud culture and a long, sometimes harrowing history, Germany is filled with
half-timbered houses, medieval cities, modern skyscrapers and reminders of World War II. Our
specialists have extensively explored the country and can provide expert recommendations for a trip
that suits your interests, whether that’s visiting a traditional biergarten in Munich, relaxing in a Black
Forest spa town or driving a Trabant around Berlin to learn about the Cold War.

We can also arrange for you to see some of Germany’s lesser-known places, such as the island of Sylt
in the North Sea. You can visit the Black Forest city of Freiburg and take a privately guided tour of the
farmers’ market with a knowledgeable local, or cruise along the Rhine to see the castles lining the
river. Tour Germany’s modern financial hub Frankfurt, or explore the streets of Dresden, lovingly
restored after being destroyed by bombs during World War II.
I I
I
I

DENMARK Copenhagen

I
Audley in Germany

I I
Sylt

I I I
A country with rich tradition and a complex North Sea

I
I
I
I

past, Germany can be explored in many

I
I
I
ways. Our specialists have sought out a

I
I
Rostock

I I
range of experiences in Germany that can I
I
I

show you everything from the dairy


I

I
Hamburg I
I
farm-dotted hills of the Black Forest to the I I
I
I I I

mural-covered remnants of the Berlin Wall. NETHERLANDS

I
I
I
I
I
We can arrange for you to drive your own Amsterdam I
I I
I POLAND
I
4
I
Cold War-era Trabant car around Berlin and
I
I I
I I I I
I I I I I I I I I I I I I
I
I
I I
I I I I I
I I I
I I
I BERLIN
see landmarks like Checkpoint Charlie and I I I

II
I
I
I
Potsdam
I

II I
I
I

the Brandenburg Gate. If you want to I


I

I
I
I
I I

I
I

I
I I

I I I I
I
expand on your World War II knowledge, I

I
I
I

I
Rhin

I
I
I

GERMANY
I I

you could join a Jewish heritage walking tour Brussels I


I I I I

I I
2

I I
I I

I
I
Leipzig
e

and learn about the lives of Jewish Berliners

I I I I
I I

Cologne
I

I
I

I I
I I I I
I
I I
I

I I I I I
I I

I I I I
I
I
I
I I
I

I I I
before, during and after the Nazi regime, I I I I I
I I
I

I
I I I I I I I
I

I I
I

I
I

BELGIUM Dresden
I I

take a historical walking tour of Munich, or

I
I

I
I
R

I
I
hi

visit Dachau concentration camp.


I

I
I

I I
ne

3
I
Frankfurt
I
I I

I
LUXEMBOURG
I I I
I
Va

I I I I
I
We can also plan in time for you to soak up
I

I
I

I
Oberwesel
lle

I
I I I

I
I I
I

I I
I
the German countryside along the Romantic CZECH
I I

I
y

Rothenberg
I

REPUBLIC
I

I
I I
I

Road, take a boat past the towns and castles


I
I I

Heidelberg
I

I
I

I
I
I

I
I
I
II I I

Nuremberg 0 50 miles
I

along the Rhine, or visit the beerhalls and I


I I

I
I

I
I
I

I
I I

0 80 kilometres
Oktoberfest museum in Munich.
I

Baden-Baden
I

I
I

I
I
I

I
I

I
I

I
I I
I I
I

I
st

I
I
FRANCE
I
I

I I I
I
I I
re

Accommodation
I

I I I
I BAVARIA I
I I

I
Fo

I
I I

5I I
I

I I I I I I
I I I

I
I I

I
Dachau
k

I
I
I I I
ac

I
I

A palatial hotel with a four-floor spa and I I


I I
Munich I
I Vienna
Bl
I

I
I I I
I
I I I I
I

I
I
Freiburg AUSTRIA
I
Michelin-starred restaurant in Munich’s old I
1
I

I I

I
I I I

Neuschwanstein
I
I

town, or an intimate family-run Bavarian


I

Castle
I

I
I
I I

hotel in central Rothenburg? In Germany,


I

Basel
Zürich
I

I
I
I I
you’ll find something no matter what your SWITZERLAND
I
Innsbrück
LIECH.
preferences. Our specialists have hand-
picked a selection of places to stay in
Germany, and can suggest options to match
your interests and budget. 1 Munich 3 Rhine Valley 5 Black Forest
Baroque spires, cobbled streets This centuries-old trade route Countless walking
We can recommend anything from an and a centuries-old brewing runs between photogenic opportunities await in a
11th-century stacked-stone castle tradition in the Bavarian city of villages, storied wineries and storybook landscape of dense
overlooking the Rhine in Oberwesel, to a Munich, home of the annual castles perched high on the pine forest, cascading waterfalls,
hotel in a former bank building and jazz club, Oktoberfest. bluffs. castle ruins and half-timbered
with its own in-house jazz station playing See pages 100-101 See page 102 houses.
through the lobby and a wine bar in an old See pages 104-105
bank vault. Or, if wellness is your goal, we 2 Cologne 4 Berlin
can suggest a hotel in the spa town of This riverside city combines a Germany’s capital is home to a World War II
Baden-Baden with its own personal trainers medieval old town with complex history, neoclassical Explore this dark period in
and on-site detox program. Whether you’re hyper-modern architecture and monuments and an edgy street Germany’s history with tours
hoping to be close to the action near Berlin’s burgeoning art scene. art scene. that examine different aspects,
Brandenburg Gate or minutes from the See page 101 See page 103 from Berlin’s Jewish heritage to
beach in Sylt, we know the place for you. Munich’s Königsplatz.

www.audleytravel.com/germany • 01993 627 375 • Germany 99


Munich

Munich A day in Bavaria


With its Baroque churches, Gothic façades and Amid the serene mountain landscape of the
cobbled squares, the city of Munich still bears Bavarian Alps, you'll have the day to take in
evidence of its Holy Roman Empire heritage panoramic views, walk among brightly painted
through its architecture, which is reminiscent of houses and traverse a deep gorge among
Florence. However, the city boasts a strong sparkling waterfalls.
Bavarian identity, and the white-and-blue
Glyptothek in Königsplatz, Munich Begin by driving through the forested countryside
Bavarian flag flies over state buildings. It hosts
to the mountains. A cable car will sweep you to
many festivals to celebrate its most popular
the top of Herzogstand, which offers great views
exports, most notably Oktoberfest, which sees World War II walking tour
of this part of the mountain range. Continue to
millions of people descend on the city.
Spend a morning exploring Munich’s turbulent the resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, site
Get to know Munich by visiting biergartens, years during the Nazi regime with a walking tour of the 1936 Winter Olympics. You can walk
taking a World War II walking tour or exploring that includes many of the most important sites cobblestone streets among houses painted with
the Viktualienmarkt. It’s also a good base for from the era. Munich became a Nazi stronghold frescoes, then take a tour of the stadium.
exploring Bavaria. You can ride the Romantic after the group took power in 1933, with Nazis
Finish your day by walking down to Partnach
Road and admire the valleys and medieval towns referring to the city as Hauptstadt de Bewegung,
Gorge, a national park where a mountain stream
of the German countryside, or explore the or ‘Capital of the Movement’.
has carved a deep, winding slot through the rock.
dreamy castle of Neuschwanstein, with its spiked
Your tour will take you past Königsplatz, the The paths through the gorge give you a safe way
turrets reaching into the clouds.
square used for Nazi rallies and book burnings, to view its natural beauty.
and the former site of the Nazi national
headquarters. You'll also see the site of Hitler’s
failed 1923 coup d’etat, the nondescript lane
used by those who wanted to avoid saluting Nazi
memorials and one of the many memorials to
the White Rose group. Most of the buildings
used by Nazis were either destroyed during air
raids or after the war by Allied troops. However,
in their place sprung memorials dedicated to
those who lost their lives during the war and in
remembrance of groups that opposed the Nazis.
Oktoberfest in Munich Partnach Gorge, Bavaria

100
Angel statue, Cologne Cologne

The Charles Hotel, Munich New Town Hall, Munich Oompah band, Munich

The Charles Hotel, Munich Hotel Mondial am Dom,


Across from the Old Botanical Garden, the Art Cologne
Deco Charles Hotel combines attentive service A three-minute walk to the towering, Gothic
and a convenient location with luxe amenities Cologne Cathedral, the Hotel Mondial am Dom
including a Michelin-starred restaurant and a spa is an ultra-modern hotel in the heart of
with the largest swimming pool in the city. Cologne’s old town. Its location is its biggest
Located in the Lenbach Gärten section of draw, as the waterfront, museums and
Munich, the hotel is within walking distance of Doorway, Cologne Cathedral restaurants are all easily walkable.
shops and restaurants as well as the train station
The hotel’s restaurant Reissdorf im Mondial
and Munich’s old town. Many of the 136 rooms Cologne serves regional dishes and draft beers, and was
and suites have French balconies with views of
Sophisticated Cologne spreads along both banks designed to give the ambiance of a modern
the park.
of the Rhine, and its medieval old town, hyper- Cologne brewery while still offering sweeping
modern buildings and hip culture provide a great views of the Cologne Cathedral.
Hotel Excelsior, Munich
The Excelsior by Geisel provides a warm, base for exploring the Rhine Valley. You can stay There are 203 rooms at the Hotel Mondial am
country-house-style stay in the heart of Munich. here and visit Frankfurt, Oberwesel and other Dom, decorated with steel, birdcage-like
Located just steps from the city’s main train destinations along the river. chandeliers and parquet floors. They’re
station and a short walk from sights like Stachus The 2,000-year-old city, once a provincial capital decorated in a mod style, with pops of blue
and Frauenkirche, it’s a good base for exploring in the Roman Empire, is still a major shipping and yellow.
the city. The 114 rooms and suites all exude thoroughfare, cultural landmark and chic
Bavarian charm with pastel bathrooms, red-and- waterfront destination. Influenced by its
cream upholstery and antique furniture. proximity to France and its deep history as a
crossroads, Cologne boasts an international,
cosmopolitan feel, with fast trains to Amsterdam,
Brussels and Paris, the busiest shopping district in
Europe and a strong LGBTQ culture.

At your leisure, you can explore the churches


and museums more deeply, walk across the
love-locks-covered bridge and enjoy the local
beer offering – pale Kölsch served in dainty
cylindrical glasses called Stangen.
Hotel Excelsior, Munich Hotel Mondial am Dom, Cologne

www.audleytravel.com/germany • 01993 627 375 • Germany 101


Vineyard, Rhine Valley

Rhine Valley Hotel Europäischer Hof,


Heidelberg
The long and winding Rhine, delicate Riesling and
A Heidelberg institution for more than 150 years,
seemingly countless castles – the Rhine Valley
the Hotel Europäischer Hof offers a state-of-the-
lets you explore the history and culture of trade
art spa, a tranquil garden and a rooftop pool and
and conflict in central Germany. Flowing from the
sun terrace with views out onto the Heidelberg
Swiss Alps all the way to the North Sea, the
Castle. The hotel feels luxe from the moment
Rhine has been the backbone of the area for
you walk through the round, Roman-style
centuries, forming a major trade route. The cities Cochem Castle, Rhine Valley entrance and up the red-carpeted central
along the stretch that runs through Germany
staircase. The lobby has a comfortable gallery
often collected tolls from the ships passing Rhine Valley tour sitting area with wood-accented red walls, plush
through, and castles sprang up all along both
This tour gives you the chance to spend a carpets on the marble floor and sage-green and
banks, built by regional lords defending their
morning or afternoon exploring the Rhine Valley soft-red chairs around coffee tables. There are
pieces of the pie. The portion between
and the town of Rüdesheim and cruising past 117 rooms and suites, each individually designed
Heidelberg and Saint Goar is most photogenic
villages, vineyards and castles on a boat ride on with touches like crystal chandeliers, ornate
and inviting for a cruise due to its mild climate,
the Rhine. An English-speaking driver will pick sconces and soundproof windows to ensure a
quaint villages, wineries and ruined castles. One
you up from your hotel and drive the snaking good night’s sleep.
of the most charming stops along the stretch is
roads through the hilly green vineyards toward
Oberwesel, where you can stroll on top of the Castlehotel Schönburg,
Rüdesheim. Before meeting the boat at the jetty,
intact medieval walls that still circle the town. Rhine Valley
you can walk the cobblestone streets through
Tracing the river and exploring its strongholds the shops and cafes, or take the cable car up to Fusing an 11th-century stacked-stone castle and
and the storied cities nearby can connect you the Germania monument. traditional Bavarian architecture, the Castlehotel
with the region. Delve deeper with experiences Schönburg offers sweeping panoramas of the
At the summit you’ll have a panorama of the Rhine Valley, an intimate feel and easy access to
as varied as hearing about mermaids around
calm blue waters of the Rhine, the rolling the numerous wineries in the region. The 27
Lorelai Rock, visiting Ludwigsburg Palace or
vineyards in the valley and a bird’s-eye view of rooms are each individually decorated in an
seeing the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart.
the town. Your driver will leave you for the boat ornate, traditional style, and many have balconies
The late spring and early summer, near the cruise, which will meander down the Rhine, overlooking the Rhine flowing below. There’s
beginning of May, is an excellent time to visit passing villages, castles and the myth-wreathed also a private garden, where you can stroll on
before the weather gets too warm. It’s also when Lorelei Rock. You’ll disembark at Saint Goar, footbridges over the pond, wander the stone
the Rhine in Flames festival lights the river up where your driver will meet you to bring you paths or just enjoy the valley views.
with fireworks. back to your hotel.

102
Brandenburg Gate, Berlin

Hotel Europäischer Hof, Heidelberg Castlehotel Schönburg, Rhine Valley Checkpoint Charlie, Berlin

Jewish Heritage tour


Spend a morning on a walking tour through
Mitte, Berlin’s most central district, to see sites
significant to the history of Jewish people in
Germany. You’ll start at Hausvogteiplatz, the
former location of Berlin’s fashion industry, which
was run largely by Jewish designers.
Berlin Cathedral
You’ll get to see the Hackescher Markt, where a
Berlin shop owner protected his Jewish employees by Hotel de Rome, Berlin
bribing the Gestapo, and you’ll visit Bebenplatz,
Combining a complex history, neoclassical where the Nazis held a book burning. You’ll walk Hotel de Rome, Berlin
monuments and an edgy street art scene, Berlin along Rosenstrasse, where non-Jewish wives and With details like original wood panels and
is a modern capital where you can enjoy family members successfully protested the re-purposed bank vaults, the luxe Hotel de
historical tours, exceptional shopping and a arrests and deportation of Jewish men, and you’ll Rome still recalls its past as the 19th-century
vibrant nightlife. A city once divided by a end at the Berlin New Synagogue. headquarters for Dresden Bank. However, it
concrete wall, Berlin is now a sprawling now also offers a rooftop bar with sweeping
metropolis that shows its multitude of identities Your guide will also take you through Museum
panoramic city views, a restaurant boasting a
through its many districts. Island and tell you about James Simon, a German
Michelin-starred chef and a convenient location
Jewish art collector who donated most of his
to much of what Berlin has to offer.
Visit the Reichstag, where the German priceless art collection to Berlin’s state museums.
parliament meets, or head to Brandenburg, the As you walk, you’ll see the Barn Quarter, Past its marble façade, large columns frame the
neoclassical gate that’s long been a symbol of formerly home to a large Jewish community. entrance to the lobby, where you can see the
Berlin. You can also explore the exhibits on hotel’s combination of historic grandeur and
Museum Island, where you’re sure to find modern elegance in features like marble flooring,
something to pique your interest. For an a glass-accented ceiling and dark furnishings.
immersive perspective on the city’s Cold War
The hotel has 108 rooms and 37 suites, all
heritage, including Checkpoint Charlie, we can
generously sized and decorated in an elegant
arrange for you to take a tour while driving a
minimalist style. The Historic Banker Suite was
Trabant. You can get behind the wheel of one of
once a palatial conference room, while the
these bare-bones vintage cars, which were
indoor pool formerly housed the bank’s
common during the Soviet era, and follow a
treasured jewels.
guide through the streets, listening on a headset. New Synagogue, Berlin

www.audleytravel.com/germany • 01993 627 375 • Germany 103


The Black Forest

The Black Forest Treschers Schwarzwaldhotel


am See, Black Forest
A heavily forested mountain range in southwest
Nestled between the cobalt-blue waters of Lake
Germany, the Black Forest offers gentle green
Titisee and the thick trees of the Black Forest,
slopes, seemingly countless hiking trails and
Treschers Schwarzwaldhotel am See offers easy
naturally occurring hot springs. Now the home of
access to water sports, a relaxing sauna, a private
Black Forest gâteau, Black Forest ham and
beach shops and cafes.
cuckoo clocks, the region was historically known
for its large ore deposits and mining. Due to the Freiburg farmers’ market The hotel has been run by the Trescher family
regular rainfall, the dense trees hold onto since 1911, and each generation has expanded
moisture, eventually releasing a mist that rises Freiburg farmers’ and improved it. A heated pool sits on the shore
from the treetops, evoking an enchanted feeling. market tour of the lake, so you can take a warm swim even
when Lake Titisee freezes over. And, you can
Freiburg is the biggest city in the Black Forest, Get an introduction to the cuisine and produce enjoy cocktails and dessert on the outdoor
and we can arrange for you to experience its of the Black Forest by spending a morning terrace that overlooks the lake.
popular farmers’ market with a private guide. Or exploring the local farmers’ market with your
you may prefer to visit the town of Hofgut guide. You’ll get to sample treats, do some Brenners Park Hotel & Spa,
Sternen to get the full Black Forest experience. shopping of your own and learn about the local Black Forest
Here, you can take part in glass blowing, make food scene as well as aspects of the square’s Brenners Park Hotel & Spa offers indulgence and
traditional Black Forest meals and watch a architecture, starting with the Gothic façade of leisure at the highest level. You’ll find extensive
cuckoo clock demonstration Freiburg Cathedral, which looms over the spa services, private gardens, a Roman-style pool
square. Your expert guide can give you advice on and private medical facilities, all housed inside an
popular local cuisine, as well as offer free tastings elegant Belle Époque building in the town’s main
from certain vendors. We can also adjust the park, Lichtentaler Allee.
tour based on your food preferences, interest
or allergies. The grand feel of the sprawling 175-year-old
property continues into the lobby, where marble
The tour lasts three hours, and is available columns are embedded into the mint-green walls
between April and October, every morning and four large chandeliers hang from the ceiling.
except Sunday. At the end of the tour, you’ll head The 102 rooms and villas have hosted a wide
to a cafe where you can enjoy a glass of wine and variety of glitterati, including European royals and
the tastings you collected from the market while President Obama. Keep your eye out for the
looking out across the square. hotel’s white Burmese cat, Kléopatre.
Old church, Black Forest

104
Dresden The Black Forest

Treschers Schwarzwaldhotel am See, Black Forest Brenner’s Park Hotel & Spa, Black Forest Freiburg farmers’ market

Colombi Hotel, Freiburg Vienna House QF, Dresden


The most indulgent hotel in Freiburg, the Located directly in the middle of Dresden’s old
Colombi Hotel combines a high-end experience town, Vienna House QF combines chic,
with helpful staff and a location in the old town contemporary design with a convenient location.
that makes it easy to see the sights. The lobby The hotel is less than a ten-minute walk to the
boasts a grand staircase, its swirling wrought iron city’s world-renowned opera house and adjoins
bannisters leading up to an arcade of high-end with the QF Passage, a high-end shopping mall
shops. The golden parquet floors and traditional with myriad restaurants. It’s also situated directly
furnishings make the space feel warm and The Semperoper opera house, Dresden next to Frauenkirche in Neumarkt Square,
welcoming. The hotel faces Colombi Park, meaning you’re just steps from Dresden’s
offering panoramas of the cropped green grass, Dresden best-known landmark. Vienna House QF also
bright flowers, fountain and Gothic Tudor-style offers a rooftop bar with royal blue suede bar
With the spires and domes of its stately buildings
manor situated in the park. Colombi Hotel is also chairs, plush armchairs and warm, dark wood,
along the Elbe River, Dresden has long been a
home to three restaurants, including the providing a comfortable place to enjoy a cocktail
cultural, educational and political hub in Germany
Michelin-starred Zirbelstube, with its carefully with great views over Dresden. There’s also a
and Europe. Though often referred to as a
curated menu of weekly and seasonal specials. fully equipped gym and a wide breakfast
Baroque city, Dresden’s architecture spans
The 112 rooms are spacious and bright with selection featuring local offerings. The 95 rooms
everything from Renaissance and Historicism to
stylish touches like crystal sconces, French doors and suites are all decorated with neutral tones
modernism and post-modernism.
and marble bathrooms. tones, creating a simple yet sophisticated style.
As the capital city of the German state of Saxon,
Dresden teems with culture by way of art and
music. The Saxon State Opera is one of the
best-known in Europe and draws many visitors
to the city, hoping to catch the latest show at the
Semperoper. The city is also home to a handful
of art museums, including the Albertinum
Museum, which exhibits paintings and sculptures
from Romanticism to the present. You can also
visit the distinctive Frauenkirche and its adjacent
Neumarkt, the large, cobbled square anchored
by a towering statue of Martin Luther.
Colombi Hotel, Freiburg Vienna House QF, Dresden

www.audleytravel.com/germany • 01993 627 375 • Germany 105


Tailoring your trip
The itineraries shown here are designed to give
you a flavour of what’s possible and are routes
that work particularly well. We can use these as
a basis to plan your trip or we can design a
completely different itinerary to suit your tastes
and interests. Please call one of our Germany
specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 627 375

Getting around
Though it’s large, Germany has extensive
highway and train systems that make exploring
easy. We can adapt your method of travel to
make the most of your time in country. Trains
are often the most efficient way of getting
Lighthouse, Sylt around while also enjoying the scenery along the
way. If you’d prefer a more private journey, we
offer air-conditioned vehicle transfers with a
private driver, giving you the flexibility to stop at
sights along the way. A number of domestic and
international airport options allow you to start
and end your trip in a way that suits you. We can
also arrange for you to continue on to any of
eight bordering countries.

When to go
Traditional houses, Sylt Hamburg
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Sylt Hamburg ~ ~ 3 3 33 33 33 33 3 33 3 33

33 The best time to travel.


The slender island of Sylt, with its long Set at the mouth of the Elbe River where it
3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
beaches, thatched houses and shifting flows to the North Sea, Hamburg is a city ~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
shoreline, is a romantic, windswept resort with a strong sense of its own textured 5 Travel is not recommended.

with cows grazing in meadows, rose-dotted history. While many European cities feature The best time to visit Germany is May or June.
sand dunes and low sandy cliffs. medieval buildings alongside newly built The spring weather is warm during the day and
structures, Hamburg’s contrasts are slightly cool at night as the cherry trees bloom
Tucked between Denmark and the North Sea
particularly striking. and Berlin’s festival scene bursts to life. However,
in the northernmost part of Germany, it
attracts locals in the warmer months. Long Long an important shipping hub and strategic you can visit anytime to enjoy some of the
mudflats, rolling sand dunes and remote location, Hamburg was all but destroyed by country’s seasonal pleasures, as the country
villages with thatched-roof houses provide the Allies in 1943. Since then, rebuilding has boasts a year-round mild climate with
plenty of opportunity to explore. The beach taken many forms, including a Gothic church comfortable summers and cold (but not frigid)
itself, along the island’s 40 km (25 miles) of that’s now a war memorial, an old warehouse winters. In late September and early October,
western shore, is blessed with white sands, district that’s now a city-within-the-city and a Munich celebrates Oktoberfest. The festival’s
the sheltering Red Cliff and plenty of water vibrant art scene that’s anything but popularity means that Bavaria is particularly
sports to try. underground. crowded, so we suggest avoiding this region
unless you’re visiting to go to the festival. There’s
Salt producers, oyster farms and other rustic The raucous Fish Market is open Sundays and also a special wintry charm to the country during
businesses exist here, alongside restaurants, sells everything from seafood to souvenirs. December. You can visit any of the festive
hotels and shops worthy of its frequent Inside the century-old Fischauktionshalle, a live Christmas Markets in the cities or enjoy the
celebrity guests. A Watt hike – named for the band plays rock and jazz, but doesn’t drown fairy-tale sight of snow-capped castles and
Wattenmeer tidal flats – lets you explore the out the bellowed bargaining. mountains in the countryside.
wildlife and shells of the broad wetland. You
From the elegant city hall to the diverse Time difference: GMT +1 hour
can follow it with a visit to an oyster farm on a
Kunsthalle museum, and from the glass
private boat with Champagne.
wave-form of the Elbphilharmonie to the brick Prices
immensity of the Speicherstadt warehouses,
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
Hamburg surprises at every turn.
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
for your trip to Germany on our website,
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
your plans.

106
Suggested itineraries
Berlin

Frankfurt
Amsterdam Berlin
Germany
Dresden Netherlands
Heidelberg
The
Cologne
Stuttgart Romantic
Road Czech
France Republic Germany
Germany

Freiburg Paris

Titisee France
Munich
Austria

Rhine Valley & Black Berlin & Bavaria Amsterdam, Berlin,


Forest Highlights Beginning in Berlin, you’ll continue on to explore Cologne & Paris
This seven-night journey takes you through German’s southern state of Bavaria on this This seven-night train journey through Europe
Germany’s fabled Black Forest and the tranquil eight-night trip, which takes in the highlights of combines highlights of the Netherlands, Germany
scenes of the Rhine Valley, as well as the cities both areas. Throughout your trip, you’ll discover and France. You’ll travel between cities on
of Heidelberg, Frankfurt and the resort town of more of the country’s rich history, from the comfortable trains and have plenty of time to
Titisee. You’ll enjoy guided tours and gentle medieval villages of Bavaria’s Romantic Road to explore at your own pace. We can also help you
boat trips, balanced with plenty of leisure time the modern-day architecture of the capital. delve deeper with one-off experiences like driving
to explore the region’s rich history and a 1960s Trabant around Berlin or a tasting tour
surrounding beauty. Day 1 Land in Berlin and settle into of Amsterdam.
your hotel.
Day 1 Meet your private driver when you Day 2 Explore Berlin’s architecture with a Day 1 Board the Eurostar in London for
arrive in Frankfurt and spend the guide in the morning and enjoy the Amsterdam, where a private driver
afternoon relaxing or exploring on afternoon on your own. will take you to your hotel. In the
your own. evening, watch the sunset on a salon
Day 3 Venture outside Berlin to visit boat cruise.
Day 2 Delve deeply into the heart of the Potsdam, the Sanssouci Palace
Rhine Valley on a driving tour and and Cecilienhof. Day 2 Taste traditional Dutch treats on a
river cruise. walking tour of Amsterdam in the
Day 4 Take a guided walking tour of morning. We’ll offer suggestions for
Day 3 A private driver takes you to Dresden. how to explore on your own in the
Heidelberg, where you’ll have a
Day 5 Enjoy a leisurely morning before afternoon.
guided tour of the old town and the
oldest university in Germany. flying to Munich, the capital of Day 3 Ride the Intercity Express train to
Bavaria. Berlin and enjoy dinner and drinks in
Day 4 In the morning, visit Heidelberg
Day 6 See the inspiration for Disney’s the capital city.
Castle for a guided tour. Spend the
rest of the day exploring on your castle, Neuschwanstein, today. Day 4 Get behind the wheel of a vintage
own using our suggestions. Day 7 Follow our suggestions as you Trabant for a guided tour of Cold
explore Munich on your own. War-era Berlin, then spend time
Day 5 Leave Heidelberg for Freiburg in the
discovering the city on your own.
Black Forest, enjoying a tour of Day 8 Spend the day hopping between
Baden-Baden along the way. Bavarian villages along the Day 5 Take the Intercity Express train to
Romantic Road. Cologne, where you can enjoy the
Day 6 You’ll tour Freiburg today, including
afternoon discovering the city’s
its farmers’ market, historical Day 9 Your driver will take you to the sights and sounds.
highlights and modern airport for your flight.
developments. Day 6 The Thalys train will take you to
Stay longer Paris. Stroll by the Seine or ramble
Day 7 Venture to the resort town of
through the fashionable Marais
Titisee, where you can take a lake Continue west to the Rhine Valley and Black
district before dinner.
cruise and explore the many shops Forest or enjoy more time in the Alps.
and restaurants. Day 7 A private guide will lead you on a
tasting tour of local markets,
Day 8 Your driver will take you to Stuttgart
bakeries, specialty stores and a wine
for your onward flight.
shop in Paris’s Latin Quarter.

Stay longer Day 8 Return to London on the Eurostar.


Start your trip in Cologne, continue southwest to
stay in Zurich or Geneva, or round out your visit Stay longer
to Germany with a visit to Bavaria. Visit Brussels to explore Belgium or spend more
time in Berlin so you can visit nearby Leipzig or
Dresden. You could also visit Munich and the
Bavarian countryside.

www.audleytravel.com/germany • 01993 627 375 • Germany 107


Austria
P erhaps no other country so effortlessly combines urban sophistication with the rugged
outdoors as Austria. Whether its learning about classical music in Salzburg, discovering the
coffeehouse culture of Vienna or exploring the Alpine peaks and glacial lakes of the Salzkammergut
region, when you tour Austria you’ll experience the apparently seamless transition between city streets
and open-air mountain views.

Our specialists have explored Austria top to bottom and can provide expert recommendations for a
holiday in Austria, whether you prefer to catch a show at the Vienna Opera House or take a boat ride
around Lake Hallstatt.

You can see the Lipizzaner horses perform inside the Imperial Palace, or follow Mozart’s footsteps
through Salzburg. In the mountainous Salzkammergut, you can enjoy the craggy Alpine cliffs, the
pastoral green grass and the glassy turquoise lakes while strolling through Saint Wolfgang or exploring
the neolithic-era Hallstatt salt mines.

Audley in Austria

I I I
CZECH REPUBLIC
Austria is known for its sophisticated cities,

I I I
contributions to classical music and Alpine

I I I
scenery. Our specialists have explored the
country to find the best ways to experience nub Mauthausen Dürnstein 1 I
Da

I
I
e Memorial VIENNA I SLOVAKIA
Austrian culture, from walking tours through Wachau I
GERMANY I I I
I Valley I I I I I Bratislava
I I I I I
Vienna’s First District to a private cooking I
Melk
Melk Abbey
Abbey

I
I I I I I
I I I I

I
I I I
I I I I I I

I
I I I I I
lesson with a Viennese chef. You can view
I I I I I 2
Fuschl Salzkammergut Heiligenkreuz Baden I I I

I
I I
I I
bei Wien

I I
I I

Salzburg through Mozart’s eyes in his Salzburg I I


Saint Wolfgang I

Schloss
I I
hometown and visit his birthplace and Hellbrunn Hallstatt
I 3
II
I I I
Tirol
I I
I I
childhood home. Stroll Vienna’s cobblestone
I I I
I I I I I

AUSTRIA HUNGARY
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I
I I
Innsbruck
I I
I I I I I I I
streets on a tour of the city’s cafes, where a n Graz
s t r i A l p
A u s
some of history’s great minds, such as
Sigmund Freud, pondered. See the Austrian
ITALY
hills come to life on a tour of filming
locations from The Sound of Music, or cruise SLOVENIA CROATIA
down the Danube through the Wachau
0 50 miles
Valley. Whether you want to explore salt
0 80 kilometres
mines in Hallstatt or see the Lipizzaner
horses perform at Vienna’s Imperial Palace,
we can plan a trip shaped around your
3 Hallstatt Coffeehouses
interests.
A pastel mosaic of Alpine Stroll Vienna’s cobblestone
houses set on a glimmering streets on a tour of the
Accommodation lake, in this 16th-century coffeehouses that have helped
Austria’s accommodation options are as hamlet and UNESCO World to define Vienna’s culture
diverse as its main sights, from a 600-year- Heritage Site. and history.
old hotel in the middle of Salzburg to a See page 112 See page 110
sprawling country escape overlooking the Classical music The Sound of Music
emerald-green Lake Fuschl. Whether you Take a musical journey through From the garden at Mirabell
prefer an opulent hotel that offers four types some of Mozart’s most-loved Palace to Salzkammergut,
of chocolate spa treatments or a wellness arias and duettos at an explore locations important to
hotel with complimentary yoga, our 18th-century-inspired the real-life Trapp family and
specialists have found choices in Austria to Saint Stephen’s Cathedral, Vienna dinner concert. the movie.
cater to all tastes and budgets. We can See page 111
recommend a repurposed fortress perched 1 Vienna
Vienna’s intellectual and musical
on a rocky outcrop on the Salzach River if
legacy is evident through its
you want to immerse yourself in history, or
Baroque architecture, hallowed
suggest a luxe lakeside getaway on the
concert halls and prolific
shoreline of Saint Wolfgang if you’re craving
coffeehouse culture.
relaxation. Stay in the hotel that inspired the
See page 110
operetta The White Horse Inn and enjoy its
hot tub and infinity pool, floating over Lake 2 Salzburg
Wolfgang. Or, eat fish fresh from Lake Explore the filming locations for
Hallstatt at a restaurant inside a restored The Sound of Music and trace
historic building, with uninterrupted views of the footsteps of Mozart.
the Alps. See page 111
Hohensalzburg Fortress, Salzburg

www.audleytravel.com/austria • 01993 683 698 • Austria 109


Vienna

Vienna Hotel Sacher, Vienna


The most storied hotel in Vienna, Hotel Sacher
The Baroque streetscape and tree-lined roads of
gleams with opulence before you even walk
Ringstrasse. The Gothic tower and patinaed
through the door as you’re greeted by doormen
domes of Saint Stephen’s Cathedral. The grand,
in top hats and long burgundy jackets. Set across
imperial Schönbrunn Palace and its expansive
from the Vienna State Opera, the hotel regularly
garden. Vienna is continually named one of the
hosts celebrities and royalty alike. The 152 rooms
world’s best cities to live in due to its
Apfelstrudel in a coffeehouse and suites all feature crystal chandeliers, parquet
combination of ornate architecture, easy
flooring and traditional furniture.
walkability and welcoming atmosphere. Stroll
through the cobblestone streets of the First
Coffeehouse tour If you need a day to relax from your exploration
District as you visit one of Vienna’s many Get to know Viennese coffeehouse culture on of Vienna, book a session at the day spa, which
coffeehouses, a prominent feature of Viennese this three-hour tour that winds through Vienna’s features four different chocolate treatments in
culture. Enjoy a cup of coffee and a slice of cobblestone streets. The walk from one storied addition to its more traditional offerings. Dine
apfelstrudel in the same cafe as Sigmund Freud. coffeehouse to the next, each housed in among the opera-goers at one of the hotel’s six
Or you might head to the State Opera House architecturally ornate buildings, provides a restaurants and cafes or walk to one of the many
and listen to the swell of the orchestra, and different way to see the city, and gives you a nearby bars and restaurants.
experience the rich musical history of the city taste of renowned Viennese coffee and pastries. Hotel Sacher also offers a 24-hour concierge
that inspired Mozart, Beethoven and Brahms. service, a Petit Sacher package for children and
Viennese cafes have provided inspiration to
You can also take a guided walking tour through writers like Peter Altenberg and Stefan Zweig, as babysitting services. Your room could not only
some of the most significant sites in the city well as historical figures such as Sigmund Freud. overlook the opera house, but also other
dedicated to Jewish history. As you walk through the city, your guide will tell well-known landmarks, such as the Albertina art
you all about the history of coffee in Vienna, gallery.
how the culture evolved into what it is, which
celebrities frequented each cafe and how
Viennese locals most often enjoy their cups
of coffee.

Many of the coffeehouses in the city date back to


the late 1800s and early 1900s, and UNESCO
recently awarded the title of Intangible Cultural
Heritage to the city’s coffeehouse tradition.
Vienna State Opera House Hotel Sacher, Vienna

110
Hohensalzburg Fortress, Salzburg Sachertorte

Salzburg Statue of Mozart, Salzburg Christmas market, Salzburg

Salzburg Mozart concert dinner


Nestled between Alpine mountains and packed Indulge in two of Austria’s greatest passions
with Baroque architecture and cobblestone – traditional food and classical music – with this
streets, Salzburg offers the chance for you to dinner concert featuring Mozart’s music. The
explore striking natural beauty, rich musical evening takes place inside a Benedictine
history and the city’s UNESCO-designated Old monastery at Saint Peter Stiftskulinarium, a
Town. restaurant that claims to be the oldest in Europe.
The Mozart family is said to have dined here. Hotel Schloss Mönchstein, Salzburg
A highlight of the city is a visit to Hohensalzburg
Fortress, an imposing and well-preserved Dine by candlelight on snow-white linens in the
medieval stronghold built in 1077. The fortress Barocksaal Banquet Hall, which has stained-glass Hotel Schloss Mönchstein,
makes a glorious setting for an evening concert, windows and ceiling frescoes. The three-course Salzburg
which we can arrange if you’d like. You might gala menu is based on traditional Austrian Perched on a rocky outcrop, the Hotel Schloss
explore Old Town Salzburg on foot to visit the recipes from the Baroque era, updated for Mönchstein allows you to sleep in a room with a
lively shopping street of Getreidegasse and modern palates. view over Salzburg. This fairy-tale hotel combines
Mozart’s Birthplace museum or stroll along the exclusivity and attentive service with fine dining
Between courses, you’ll enjoy an intimate and a convenient location.
Salzach River. Additionally, you can take private
performance of Mozart’s works. A chamber
tours to see filming locations from The Sound of The expansive grounds of this sprawling estate
ensemble and a pair of singers, perform arias,
Music or to attend a Mozart concert dinner, or along the banks of the Salzach River provide quiet
duets and other selections from his canon of
delve into the country’s darker history with a seclusion. Despite this, it’s only a short walk away
work. The performers’ repertoire changes
guided visit to the nearby Mauthausen from the Old Town of Salzburg, making it a good
regularly, but you might hear pieces from The
concentration camp. base for exploring the city. If you don’t feel like
Magic Flute, Don Giovanni or Così Fan Tutte.
Salzburg also makes a good base for exploring walking to town for dinner, you can stay in and
other parts of Austria. Situated near the German eat at the hotel’s renowned Glass Garden
border, it’s close to the panoramic lake district restaurant or get drinks at the Apollo Bar.
and we can arrange day trips to the lakeside The hotel offers a variety of room types and sizes,
towns of Hallstatt and Saint Wolfgang. You can including the storybook Tower Room, which is
also explore the nearby Austrian city of spread over two floors aptly located in the tower
Innsbruck, as well as the Bavarian capital of of the castle, with a panoramic view over the city.
Munich. If you need a day to relax during your travels, you
can take advantage of the full spa.
Mozart concert dinner

www.audleytravel.com/austria • 01993 683 698 • Austria 111


Hallstatt

Hallstatt Hotel Seevilla, Saint Wolfgang


Located on the shoreline of Lake Wolfgang and
Known for its salt mines, which date back to
framed by stark, jagged mountaintops, Hotel
prehistoric times, Hallstatt offers a convenient
Seevilla is reminiscent of a luxe beach getaway.
base for exploring the Salzkammergut region of
Up-close views of Lake Wolfgang’s crystal-clear
Austria. Explore the labyrinthine alleyways and
waters are set against a background of warm,
cobblestone streets, lined with 16th-century
natural decor with maritime touches, like nautical
Alpine buildings painted pastel pink, yellow and
rope floor lamps.
blue. You can also admire the flower boxes lining
the balconies. Hallstatt salt mines The design is crisp and modern, but the use
of wood throughout makes it feel warm. Hotel
The town is perched on the shores of Lake Hallstatt’s salt mines Seevilla has its own pier and a lawn that features
Hallstatt, which we can arrange for you to
Salt has been mined in the Salzkammergut a heated outdoor infinity pool with a pool
explore on a boat tour. Or, you can head up to
for thousands of years. Ride a glass-sided bar and plenty of lakeside loungers to take in
the salt mines for a tour by way of the glass-sided
funicular up the mountain to begin your tour of the view.
funicular, watching the town shrink below you as
you rise. Hallstatt provides easy access to the these ancient mines. There, you’ll gain insight to Rooms come in a variety of sizes, each individually
rest of the lake district, with Saint Wolfgang and an important part of Hallstatt’s history as a styled with modern furnishings as well as lake
Salzburg close by. It’s also not far from Munich, mining town. views and a private balcony.
Innsbruck and Vienna. The town itself is walkable, Donned in protective gear, you’ll explore the While the hotel accentuates relaxation and
and easily accessible by buses and boats. mines – either riding down wooden slides from escape, you’re still a short stroll to the heart of
one level to the next or using the stairs. Take in town, where handicraft shops, cafes and
the salt-filled walls glinting in the glow of the dim restaurants are plentiful.
lighting and learn the impact that the salt mines
have had on the area.

When you emerge from the mines on a wooden


train, you can further explore the top of the
mountain. Head to Rudolph’s Tower restaurant,
looming 360 m (1,181 ft) over Lake Hallstatt, for
a bite to eat. For unmatched open-air Alpine
views, walk out onto the skywalk, a ‘V’-shaped
patio that hangs 12 m (40 ft) over the cliffside.
Hallstatt Hotel Seevilla, Saint Wolfgang

112
Suggested itineraries
Tailoring your trip
The itineraries shown here are designed to give
Germany Luxembourg
you a flavor of what’s possible and are routes City
Vienna
that work particularly well. We can use these as Germany
Munich
a basis to plan your trip or we can design a Champagne
completely different itinerary to suit your tastes Salzburg France
and interests. Please call one of our Austria Munich
Austria
specialists to start planning your itinerary. Freiburg
Salzburg
T 01993 683 698
Zürich
Innsbruck Austria
Switzerland
Getting around
While most international flights arrive in Vienna,
smaller regional airports in Salzburg and
Innsbruck offer other options. For travel between Classical Music of Luxembourg, Freiburg,
cities, Austria’s high-speed trains run frequently Germany & Austria Munich, Innsbruck & Zürich
and are the most efficient way to get around. This ten-day trip is designed to offer classical This self-drive trip through Central Europe gives
For example, the Railjet train from Vienna to music fans an in-depth exploration of both you the chance to see a mix of well-known
Salzburg takes just three hours. You can also countries’ contributions to the genre. Filled with highlights and some less-frequented but equally
explore by car with a private driver and local performances and themed tours, you’ll also learn compelling regions. Over 12 days, you’ll explore
guide who’ll bring the country, culture and to dance the Viennese waltz in Vienna and indulge historic sites from World War II, taste Swiss
landscapes to life. If you’d like to combine in the countries’ signature foods. chocolate and soak up some of Europe’s most
impressive scenery. The flexibility of a self-drive
Germany and Switzerland, overland transfers
Day 1 Arrive in Munich and explore on trip lets you travel at your own pace and visit the
are straightforward and mostly scenic. The drive your own after settling in. places that interest you along the way.
from Salzburg to Munich takes only two hours,
Day 2 Take a walking tour of the city and
while Innsbruck to Zurich takes three and a Day 1 Take the Channel Tunnel train to
get a backstage tour of the
half hours. Opera House. Calais. We’ll offer detailed directions
and suggest some charming Belgium
Day 3 Learn to bake soft Bavarian pretzels. towns to break up your six-hour
When to go drive to Luxembourg City.
Day 4 Board a train to Salzburg and settle
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
into your new city. Day 2 Spend the morning on a private
walking tour of Luxembourg City’s
~ ~ 3 3 33 33 33 33 33 33 3 33 Day 5 A Mozart-themed walking tour is
historic district before taking a
33 The best time to travel.
followed by an intimate evening
driving tour of the countryside,
3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. dinner concert of the composer’s
where you can visit Little
~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year. works.
Switzerland or the Valley of the
5 Travel is not recommended.
Day 6 Try your hand at making apfelstrudel, Seven Castles.
Austria has hot summers and cold winters, but then attend a concert at
Days 3 & 4 Head east to Freiburg, where you
it’s rarely too sweltering or biting to enjoy the Hohensalzburg Fortress.
can delve into Black Forest culture
region, making it a year-round destination. The Day 7 Board a train to Vienna, where with tours of the old town, farmers’
best time to visit is dictated by your personal you’ll enjoy a culinary tour on a market and a recreated village.
preferences. June, July and August offer the best horse-drawn carriage.
Day 5 Choose between a leisurely, scenic
weather for hiking and boating, which means Day 8 Explore the city on a walking tour, route to Munich or a more direct
you’ll find more visitors than in other seasons. followed by a lesson in dancing the route that gives you the afternoon
There are still fewer people than you’ll find in Viennese waltz. to explore the city.
destinations like France or Italy, however. Day 9 See the Vienna Boys Choir perform Day 6: Take a tour of the Eagle’s Nest, the
December to February provides opportunities Mass at Hofburg Chapel, then Nazi mountain retreat, before
for winter sports in the Alps, where you can attend an evening performance at enjoying a city tour of Salzburg.
the Vienna Opera House.
admire the snowy mountainscapes. Cities and Days 7 & 8 Drive to Innsbruck, where you’ll see
villages blossom with Christmas markets each Day 10 Head to Vienna Airport for your the storybook Neuschwanstein
December. international flight. Castle and a Tyrolean dinner show,
complete with yodeling.
Time difference: GMT +1 hour Stay longer
Days 9 & 10 Admire the painted houses at Stein
Spend a few days in Dresden, home to the am Rhein on your way to Zürich,
Prices Semperoper. where you can indulge in cheese and
chocolate on a mountain tour.
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices Day 11 Drive northwest to Champagne to
for your trip to Austria on our website, sample France’s classic sparkling
wine.
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
your plans. Day 12 Head back to England via Calais.

Stay longer
Include a visit to Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland
or the Wallonian town of Liège.

www.audleytravel.com/austria • 01993 683 698 • Austria 113


Switzerland
W ith its pristine Alpine mountainscapes, bucolic dairy villages and glittering
international cities, Switzerland combines broad cultural influences with a deeply independent
attitude. Surrounded by other European countries yet protected by its forbidding mountain range,
Switzerland is a nation of many regions, languages and landscapes. Our specialists have visited the
whole country, from French-speaking Geneva in the west, where the UN has its headquarters, to the
glitzy mountain retreat St. Moritz in the east, where Swiss-German is the main language.

We can help you visit a wine region during a jazz festival in Montreux, walk through an intact medieval
town in Swiss-German Bern, see the world’s longest glacier from a mountain summit in the Swiss Alps
and learn to make risotto in a lakeside grotto in Italian-speaking Ticino. Whether you want to shop
Zürich’s fashionable streets, hear alphorn players in the Emmental Valley or see the Matterhorn
mirrored in a glassy lake, we’ll tailor your holiday in Switzerland to your interests.

Audley in Switzerland
With over half of its landmass covered in
GERMANY
mountains, Switzerland is best known for
Alpine adventures, but it also boasts the
lakefront Montreux Riviera, valleys full of
Zürich 1
half-timbered farmhouses and grazing cows, FRANCE Lake
Züric AUSTRIA
h
richly historical cities and grand 19th-century
resort towns. Our specialists have picked Lucerne 4 LIECHTENSTEIN
BERN L ake
Lucerne
out the best things to do in Switzerland, and 3
can help you choose experiences based on SWITZERLAND I I
your interests. Interlaken I I I
I

I
I I
Grindelwald 7 I

I
I
I I I I I I
Wengen I
I
You can take a gondola to the top of a

I
LAVAUX I

I
I
I
Geneva I

I I
mountain and walk on the world’s longest Lake Jungfraujoch I

5 Montreux P S St Moritz
I

I
I
I A L
glacier, or visit a traditional cheesemaking I I
I

S
Geneva I S
I

factory and see how they get the holes into


I

W
I I

S
Swiss cheese. Taste truffles at an exclusive
I

Zermatt 2 6
I

chocolatier, then get on a cogwheel train ITALY Lugano


FRANCE
Matterhorn
that will take you to the top of a snowy
massif. Whether you’d rather ride a luxury
train through mountain tunnels in the Alps
or take a boat to a grotto to learn how to
make risotto, we can help you find your 0 50 miles
personal best ways to explore Switzerland. 0 80 kilometres

Accommodation
Places to stay in Switzerland tend to focus
on comfort, style and balance, whether you
3 Bernese Oberland 5 Lake Geneva
spend the night in a grand Belle Époque In this region, centuries-old This Riviera-style region
hotel with crystal chandeliers or a rustic traditions collide with a bordering France and
chalet with blankets made from the wool of cinematic landscape of Switzerland has medieval
sheep that live on the grounds. Our ice-capped peaks and mirror- castles, jazz festivals, sun-
specialists have sought out the best places to like lakes. soaked vineyards and lakefront
stay throughout Switzerland – luxe modern See page 118-119 beaches.
spa resorts, 600-year-old inns and Victorian See page 120
boutique hotels. 4 Lucerne
Fraumünster Church, Zürich
A medieval old town, an azure 6 Lugano
Depending on your interests and budget, mountain lake and pastel- An upscale lakeside resort with
1 Zürich
you might stay in an Italian-style villa painted houses make Lucerne a balmy climate, Italian-inspired
Switzerland’s largest city offers
decorated with the owner’s own tapestry one of the country’s most cuisine and a Swiss Alpine
exclusive shopping, a Roman-
and art collection, a gracious Swiss chalet in photogenic cities. setting.
era old town and a gracious,
the Alps where you arrive by horse-drawn See page 119 See page 121
sunny setting.
carriage or a fresco-painted medieval
See page 116
building tucked just outside the town’s main 7 Glacier Express train
action. Contemporary comfort is also in 2 Zermatt Take the slow route through
vogue, whether you choose a grand hotel You can see the Matterhorn the Alpine wilds on the Glacier
and spa in the Alps with pale wood bathed from almost anywhere in this Express, an indulgent and
in natural light or a comfy stay in the city Alpine resort town. panoramic train.
with a British-themed bar and restaurant. See page 117 See page 117
Alpine chalets

www.audleytravel.com/switzerland • 01993 683 180 • Switzerland 115


Zürich

Zürich Chocolate, cheese Storchen


Switzerland’s largest city, Zürich offers exclusive
& mountains The Storchen, which dates back 650 years, takes
its name from a legend that a pair of rare black
shopping, a Roman-era old town and a gracious, This daytime bus tour sweeps you around Lake storks nested on its roof. Black storks represent
sunny setting. Repeatedly named one of the Zürich and through the countryside of northern good luck, and a stork motif runs throughout the
world’s most livable cities, it has also become Switzerland, taking in the quintessential aspects hotel’s decor.
one of the more fashionable travel destinations of Alpine culture along the way. You’ll visit a
in the 21st century. The city’s old town is largely Swiss chocolate outlet, tour a storied Centrally located on the banks of the Limmat
pedestrian-only, so you can easily stroll around cheesemaking factory, then summit a mountain in River, the light-pink building has easy access to
its narrow cobbled streets, guild houses and the Appenzeller Alps for a view of four different Zürich’s shopping, entertainment and
medieval churches. The stark white walls of the countries. Finish the day in Appenzell, a brightly restaurants. It also features both classic and
Grossmünster church tell the story of the painted village that richly demonstrates the contemporary guest rooms, a chic bar, a
Protestant Reformation in Switzerland, while in region’s traditions. Michelin-star restaurant and a leather-furnished
the 13th-century Fraumünster, you can see the cigar bar. With 66 rooms, the Storchen is
The tour heads down from Zürich’s Sihlquai bus intimate and elegant and offers a high level of
modern stained-glass windows created by Marc
station to the Lindt and Sprüngli outlet. As you service. Amenities include a fitness room and a
Chagall. Walk the Bahnhofstrasse for a look at
walk in the door, you'll receive one of their Venetian-inspired pier.
Europe’s most exclusive brands, or explore Lake
renowned chocolates, and you'll have the chance
Zürich on a classic paddle-steamer boat. On the
to buy more for yourself as you browse. Then Townhouse Boutique
north side of the lake, the Golden Coast is
continue through the close-cropped grassy hills Hotel, Zürich
known for its sunny climate.
of the countryside to the Appenzeller cheese With just 26 rooms, the Townhouse Boutique
factory, where you'll learn more about the combines an intimate stay with a convenient
cheesemaking process and can nibble on a location just steps away from one of the world’s
few samples. most exclusive shopping streets. Each stylish
Afterward, you’ll take a cable car to the top of room is individually designed, though common
Hoher Kasten, where you can soak in the themes like Victorian-style damask wallpaper run
mountain views, then enjoy a stroll or lunch at throughout. The Townhouse Boutique is located
the revolving restaurant at the summit. in Zürich’s old town, and is within walking
distance of Paradeplatz, Lake Zürich, cafes,
The tour finishes in Appenzell, where you’ll have restaurants, bars, shops and the train station.
some free time to walk the streets among vivid Restaurant Palette serves Mediterranean and
traditional houses and sample more Swiss Asian cuisine, and a breakfast buffet daily with a
Swiss chocolates delicacies before heading back to Zürich. wide selection of pastries, fruits and eggs.

116
Swiss farmhouse façade

Rapperswil on Lake Zürich Zermatt

Glacier Express train Hotel Bellerive, Zermatt Hotel Daniela, Zermatt

Zermatt Hotel Daniela, Zermatt


Hotel Daniela offers a traditional Alpine
The pyramidal sweep of the Matterhorn pierces
experience in a Swiss-chalet-style hotel right in
the sky in nearly every view from the Alpine
Zermatt. The outside of the building is modest,
town of Zermatt, one of Switzerland’s oldest and
with wooden staircases and balconies
best-known mountain resorts. The town’s simple
overflowing with flowers. Inside, you’ll find a log
wooden chalets stacked up and down the valley
fire, comfy chairs covered in red wool cushions
sit amid most of the nation’s highest peaks, many
and blankets made from the fleece of the hotel’s
exceeding 4,000 m (13,100 ft).
own sheep, who you can visit. Access to the Gädi
This German-speaking town is a popular Spa, with its night-sky lighting and central
destination for outdoor enthusiasts, whose visits Glacier Express train fireplace, is included in your stay. Hotel Daniela
regularly triple its small population. Like some only serves breakfast, but its nearby sister
other Swiss mountain resorts, Zermatt is Glacier Express train restaurants offer dining at a discounted rate for
car-free, making it easy to navigate on foot or Take the slow route to admire the Alpine wilds guests, and all are in walking distance in Zermatt.
by bicycle. on the Glacier Express, a train known as much
for its panoramic views of high mountain scenery Hotel Bellerive, Zermatt
Mountaineering is the town’s chief activity, as its exceptional level of service. Sleekly modern yet warm with rustic Alpine
whether skiing, climbing, hiking or simply taking in
You’ll spend the day on a deluxe train with large touches, Hotel Bellerive is a chic hideaway
the views. You can take easier walks along the
windows that curve overhead and allow you to centrally located in Zermatt. With its chalet-style
area’s many mountain trails, both at low and high
see the sights while gliding across narrow bridges, structure, central lobby fireplace and relaxed
altitude. Or, board Europe’s highest open-air
through mountain tunnels and past the source of atmosphere, this boutique hotel presents a
railway to see the Gornergrat and its glacier field.
the mighty Rhine River. Green mountainsides and family-run feeling in a stylish space. The hotel is
valleys in the warmer months give way to icy just a ten-minute walk to all the main sights,
rock faces and snow-blanketed villages in winter. including the Glacier Paradise Cable Cars and the
Sunnegga Express funicular. Each of the 25
Begin in either St. Moritz or Zermatt, and spend rooms and suites is individually designed to give a
the day winding through canyons, mountain feeling of comfort, with contemporary furnishings
passes and limestone viaducts on this romantic in soft neutral tones, fuzzy blankets and rustic
route. The train offers three levels of service, wood accents. The south-facing rooms boast
including Excellence Class, which includes a views of the Matterhorn.
six-course lunch with wine pairings and the
services of a professional concierge.
Wooden houses, Zermatt

www.audleytravel.com/switzerland • 01993 683 180 • Switzerland 117


Bernese Oberland

Emmental Show Dairy


Visit the home of Swiss cheese – the Emmental
Valley, where the well-known holey cheese is
made in dairies throughout the vibrant green,
hilly region. Spend the day exploring the
cow-clipped pastures and traditional chalets
Lake Bachalpsee of this agricultural stronghold, then visit its
most well-known attraction, the Emmental
Bernese Oberland Show Dairy.

With its glacier-strewn mountains, alphorn The dairy, a modern producer of a great deal of
Emmental cheese, runs a tour that demonstrates Emmental Valley
players and strong cheeses, the Bernese
Oberland embodies the classic postcard image the long history of cheesemaking in the area.
Bristol Hotel, Bern
of the Alps. It’s also home to the Jungfrau resort Start with the traditional methods of the 18th
The Bristol, a Swiss design hotel with a British
area, which takes advantage of the singular century, where raw milk is gently warmed, stirred
accent, invites its guests to ‘always look on the
mountain views, winter sports and Swiss and screened over wood fires. Then see how the
bright side of life’. A comfortable option in Bern’s
hospitality. Interlaken, Grindelwald and Wengen methods have progressed through the centuries.
old town and convenient to both the city’s sights
are the best-known resorts, in an area that’s The tour culminates with a chance to see the and the trains to the Bernese Oberland, the
also easy to navigate via Switzerland’s excellent modern facility in action, as it turns vast hotel’s 100 guest rooms are decorated in
rail system and a network of scenic trains and quantities of milk into the cheese you know. At browns, golds and lively tartan prints. The
cable cars. the end of the tour, you can taste the finished Bristol Lounge serves afternoon tea, full English
You’re likely to base your visit in one of the many product at various stages of its aging process. breakfast, Cornish pasties and British cheeses.
small villages rife with flower-decked timber- The playfully decorated lobby includes such
frame houses. Some of the resorts, like Wengen, oddball touches as lampshades shaped like
are car-free and invite you to take in the clean bowler hats. At the bar, you can sip creative
mountain air on foot. But it’s the scenery that cocktails along with port and beers in both
truly defines the region. The many hiking trails English and Swiss styles. Your stay also includes
threaded through the mountain landscapes allow the Bern Ticket, which gives you full access to
you to soak in the majesty of the glaciers at your Bern’s public transit, the funicular railways up
own pace, all with the storied triple peaks of the the local mountains and travel to and from
Jungfrau, the Mönch and the Eiger as your Bern airport.
backdrop. Cheesemaking

118
Chocolate tasting
A tasting visit to Max Chocolatier, the
premiere chocolate atelier in Lucerne,
is a chance to sample some of the
finest and most unusual handmade
truffles in the world. Hear the history of
chocolate-making in Switzerland, the
comparatively new small-batch
boutique chocolate scene and the story
of the shop’s true owner, young
chocolate-lover Max.

In this 45-minute experience, you’ll


learn obscure chocolate terms like
‘grand cru’ and ‘conching’ and taste
single-origin chocolates from sustainable
sources around the world.

Max Chocolatier creates its truffles


Lucerne
seasonally, so the palette will vary
depending on when you go. Enjoy
fillings ranging from caramels and nuts
to fruit and herb combinations and
boozy concoctions.

After the tasting, you can continue


your chocolate adventure for an
additional 45 minutes and get some
hands-on confectionary experience
with the master chocolatiers in
their kitchen.

Lake Lucerne Swiss chocolates

Jungfraujoch Hotel Belvedere, Grindelwald Hotel des Balances, Lucerne


At the foot of the Eiger, the century-old Hotel Nestled among a row of 12th-century buildings
Glaciers like rivers of ice, close-up views of high
Belvedere Grindelwald offers modern comfort in in the old town of Lucerne, Hotel des Balances is
Alpine peaks and a chance to play in the
a convenient location. The 56 rooms and suites set apart by its intricately painted frescoes on the
mountain snow – spend a full day exploring
are spacious and open, with recessed lighting, frontispiece. Located on the same street as the
Jungfraujoch, known as the Top of Europe. Take
wood floors, neutral tones and balconies with area’s most popular restaurants, yet quiet
the cogwheel railway through a mountain tunnel
mountain views. The hotel houses a restaurant enough to be a peaceful refuge, this riverfront
to Europe’s highest train station, which combines
and bar, while the Fondue Restaurant Spycher hotel combines deep history with modern
an observatory, an interactive exhibit and a snow
offers traditional Swiss dishes in a rustic chalet comforts. Behind the hotel, the wooden Chapel
adventure park.
setting. The spa facilities include a heated indoor Bridge spans the Reuss River.
At the Sphinx Observation Station, which sits in pool, saltwater Jacuzzi, sauna and steam bath.
The hotel’s 56 rooms and suites have been
the saddle between the Jungfrau and the Mönch,
renovated in a warm, modern style, with golden
you can see the pristine snow on their peaks, Lucerne parquet floors, ivory bed linens and gold and
each seeming close enough to touch. The
One of Europe’s finest examples of preserved marble accents. Private balconies give you a view
Aletsch Glacier runs between the peaks, the
medieval architecture and a cosmopolitan of either the old town or the twin onion domes
longest glacier in Europe.
cultural destination, the compact city of Lucerne of the Jesuit church across the river.
Soak in the views, then venture through the sits along the lake of the same name, with the The Restaurant Balances serves a seasonal menu
Alpine Sensation moving walkway to the Ice Swiss Alps visible in the near distance. The city focusing on local delicacies in an understated
Palace, where ice-carved animals wait deep has much to recommend it, including the dining room with sleek yet inviting decor, and a
inside the glacier itself. Finish your high flower- and flag-decked Chapel Bridge, which shaded terrace that allows for al fresco dining on
adventure with sledding or snowtubing in the links one side of the cobbled-and-gabled old the river.
Snow Fun Park. town to the other, across the Reuss River. The
city wall, the clock tower and the Lion
Monument are highlights in a walk around the
old town, while the pedestrian promenade along
the waterfront features grand hotels, restaurants
and shops. The lake itself is also a focal point, and
swimming and sailing are popular pastimes. From
Lucerne, you can take a gourmet lunch cruise on
a paddle steamboat or climb Mount Pilatus on
the cog railway.
Hotel Belvedere, Grindelwald The old town, Lucerne

www.audleytravel.com/switzerland • 01993 683 180 • Switzerland 119


Jet d'Eau, Lake Geneva

Lake Geneva Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic,


Lake Geneva
The largest lake in Western Europe, Lake
The Suisse Majestic combines Belle Époque
Geneva shimmers along the border of
grandeur with modern comfort on the banks of
Switzerland and France between the Jura
Lake Geneva, making it a great base for exploring
Mountains in the north and the Alps in the south.
the Montreux Riviera.
The deep-blue waters invite swimming and
boating, and the shore is dotted with medieval The façade, with its white stonework, wrought-
villages, cosmopolitan cities, terraced vineyards iron balconies, yellow shutters and classic
and peaceful beaches. Vineyard, Lavaux lettered rooftop sign, has been preserved. The
cool interior has been renovated into a modern
You can explore the cobbled streets of Vevey
and Montreux, whose old towns bewitch with
Lavaux wine tour temple to natural light, with pale and neutral
tones, high-arched ceilings, recessed lighting and
their narrow, brightly painted houses and Take a tour through the Swiss wine-producing enormous windows creating an open and airy
fortress-like castles along the lake shore. In region of Lavaux, where steep terraced vineyards feeling throughout the hotel.
Montreux, you can attend the world-renowned line the banks of Lake Geneva. You’ll taste wines
jazz festival, or pay homage to the statues of unavailable anywhere else, since very little Swiss One of Montreux’s largest hotels with 155 rooms
musical greats, including Freddie Mercury, that wine is exported. Enjoy lunch with a local wine and suites, it nonetheless creates an atmosphere
adorn the town’s waterfront. Stroll the stately producer, visit a medieval fortress and learn of individual attention and relaxation.
streets of the lake’s namesake city, Geneva, about the history of this UNESCO World The hotel’s restaurant, Le 45, offers a healthful
where a fountain shoots water high into the air. Heritage Site. international menu and a terrace with panoramic
Or tour the Lavaux wine region, whose vineyards views of the lake and the Alps. One meeting
From your hotel in Montreux or Vevey, you’ll be
produce wines you can’t taste anywhere else. room, the 4 Seasons, retains the crystal-
driven to Lavaux, where you’ll hear stories about
this region’s character. After a visit to a historic chandelier and gold-curtain opulence of the
castle, you’ll have the opportunity to taste hotel’s 19th-century origins.
several of Lavaux’s distinctive reds and whites. Set between Lake Geneva’s edge and the train
Enjoy a lunch of local meats or cheese fondue station, the hotel is centrally located for reaching
with a local wine producer, paired with the all that Montreux has to offer, including the
appropriate wine, of course. Then head back flower-decked waterfront promenade and many
toward your hotel, passing by some of the villages excellent restaurants. The station also gives you
along the way. If you visit in September and access to the efficient Swiss rail system, which
October, you may see the grape harvest. can take you all over the region with ease.
Chateau Chillon near Montreux

120
Lugano

Lugano Flower clock, Geneva

Alpine fondue Lugano Lake Geneva

Lugano Grand Hotel Villa


Castagnola, Lugano
Flanked by two mountains on the shore of a
Teeming with amenities and filled with warm
palm-lined glacial lake, the city of Lugano lets you
character, Villa Castagnola combines historic
enjoy a taste of Mediterranean culture in view of
charm with a quiet location just a 15-minute walk
the Swiss Alps. A great base from which to
from the main sights of Lugano. The oldest hotel
explore the Italian-speaking region of Ticino,
in town, it’s furnished with the owners’ private
Lugano boasts a mild climate and the fresh food
collection of antiques, tapestries and art, and sits
and wines that come with it. Ticino’s Alpine Lake Lugano within a tranquil subtropical garden steps from
peaks, chestnut forests, olive groves and pristine
Lake Lugano.
lakes make it a popular destination for the Swiss Cruise & cook workshop
in the warmer months. Lugano’s Italian- The hotel was built as a private residence in
influenced food scene includes traditional You can spend your day exploring the 1880 and a stay here allows you to indulge in
lakeside grottoes that serve only simple, local conjunction of Swiss and Italian cultures on a lake 19th-century elegance and grandeur, surrounded
menus. Originally a Roman settlement, Lugano’s that bridges the two countries. We’ll arrange for by gilded mirrors, glittering chandeliers and
cobblestone streets are paths to history and you to cruise across Lake Lugano to a grotto ornate rugs.
culture. The location also gives you easy access restaurant, where you’ll get a masterclass in
Across the street, you can dine at the hotel’s
to Lake Como and Milan, less than an hour away. making Italian risotto from a local chef.
Michelin-star restaurant, located in an art gallery
The Bernina Express, one of Switzerland’s most Begin your journey in Lugano, where a boat will on the lake. The hotel offers 74 rooms and
scenic train journeys, links Lugano to St Moritz, take you across the water to the shadier, more suites, two restaurants, multiple bars, and spa
higher in the Alps. mountainous side of the lake. As you approach, facilities. All the rooms have a balcony and
you’ll see the docks, rock walls and grottoes that terrace with either park views or lake views.
are typical of the region.

Once you arrive, you’ll be given a welcome drink


and nibbles before your cooking adventure
begins. Then, your host will teach you how to
prepare risotto from fresh, local ingredients.

Afterward, you’ll eat what you’ve made and take


your time returning to Lugano at your own pace.
If you wish, take a slower boat on your return
and see the small fishing villages along the shore.
Funicular, Lugano Grand Hotel Villa Castagnola, Lugano

www.audleytravel.com/switzerland • 01993 683 180 • Switzerland 121


Tailoring your trip
The itineraries shown here are designed to give
you a flavour of what’s possible and are routes
that work particularly well. We can use these as
a basis to plan your trip or we can design a
completely different itinerary to suit your tastes
and interests. Please call one of our Switzerland
specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 683 180

St. Moritz
Getting around
To ensure your travel is hassle free, we’ll arrange
private transfers and local guides to accompany
you on your excursions. In the towns and cities,
the best way to travel is on foot. Train stations
are often centrally located, making it easy for you
to reach your hotel. For travel between cities and
towns, Switzerland’s rail network is extensive,
reliable and efficient. We’ll arrange for you to
have a travel pass that’s valid on trains, buses,
trams and some boats. In the Alps, scenic trains
offer panoramic views and exceptional service as
you travel through the mountains.

When to go
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

St. Moritz 3 3 3 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 3 3

33 The best time to travel.


St. Moritz Hotel Steffani, St. Moritz 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
Built in 1869 in the heart of St. Moritz, the ~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
With its palatial grand hotels, high-end 5 Travel is not recommended.
Steffani offers a chance to stay in a
European boutiques and glitzy reputation,
quintessential Alpine retreat. The hotel, which The best time to visit Switzerland is between
St. Moritz remains one of the most exclusive
has been run by the same family for four April and October, though winter sports
resorts on the continent. It first became a
generations, features lots of pine, wooden enthusiasts may prefer December to March. The
winter destination in the 1860s, and has since
flooring, log fires and red cushions. Out front country has four distinct seasons, each with its
hosted the Winter Olympics twice.
you’ll find the Steffani rabbit statue. Originally own attractions. The spring months of March to
Skiing is the most obvious draw, but there’s designed to be the 1928 Winter Olympics’ May bring Alpine blooms, flowering trees and
much more to enjoy in this ritzy Alpine village. mascot, the rabbit was adopted by the hotel cows heading out to pasture. In June, July and
If you’re feeling active, try bobsledding, ice as its own after the athletes stayed at the August, summery temperatures prevail, though
skating, or hiking the mountain trails. The first Steffani during the games. you’ll rarely get any humidity thanks to the
and only remaining natural bobsled run was altitude. This is when locals and visitors alike
The hotel is home to three restaurants,
built here in 1904, and is now fondly known head to the lake shores. The wine and fruit
including Le Lapin Bleu, the oldest in town.
as ‘the world’s largest ice sculpture’. harvests dominate the autumn months of
Adventurous visitors can still ride the track, There is a range of 60 rooms, as well as a spa, September to November, while from December
sandwiched between two professional pilots. pool, three bars and a nightclub, all within the to February, snow allows for winter sports.
In the summer, St. Moritz is a premiere sailing hotel walls. In the lowlands, rain most often falls in
destination, and golf, cycling and running are November and May, and many attractions will
also popular. have limited hours.

To unwind in the colder months, visit the spas Time difference: GMT +1 hour
and enjoy a steam or massage, or find a
lounge with a fireplace and sip glühwein while Prices
the powder-light snow falls outside. In the We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
warmer season, take a swim in peaceful Lake budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
Staz, go ‘forest bathing’ in the high mountain for your trip to Switzerland on our website,
pines, or just soak in the sun, which shines alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
more than 300 days a year. your plans.

Hotel Steffani, St. Moritz

122
Suggested itineraries
London London

Calais
Cologne

Paris Paris Épernay

Basel Basel
Zürich
Lucerne
Grindelwald Lake Montreux
Maggiore Lugano Zermatt
Como Stresa

Milan

Cologne, Basel & Italy & Switzerland by Rail Self-drive France,


Lucerne by Rail Explore the mountainous scenery and cultural Switzerland & Italy
Discover some of Europe’s best scenery as you highlights of Switzerland and northern Italy on this Combining the French countryside, Swiss
travel through the Black Forest, Rhine Gorge and nine-day itinerary. Throughout the trip, you’ll mountains and Italian lakes, this self-drive itinerary
Bernese Oberland during this eight-day rail travel by high-speed train, first across Europe to is ideal if you’re in search of scenic landscapes, fine
journey. Enjoy the riverine sights of the Rhine Basel and then through the Italian and Swiss Alps, wines and Alpine vistas. Journey through the
Valley, the deep piney woods of the Black Forest taking in views of snow-topped peaks along the French Champagne region, over the Jura
and the views of mountains reflected in Lake way. The latter half of your trip sees you spending Mountains to Lake Geneva and then up into the
Lucerne before finishing at the Alpine town of time around Italy’s Lake Lugano, Lake Como and Alps to enjoy Europe’s highest peaks. After the
Grindelwald, where you can soak up the Lake Maggiore. mountain air, indulge in some relaxation at Lake
mountain views. Maggiore before circling back into medieval
Day 1 Take the Eurostar from London to Switzerland and driving home through France.
Day 1 Take the Eurostar then the Thalys Paris, where you’ll enjoy lunch at Le
train from London to Cologne, and Train Bleu before boarding another
Day 1 Take the Channel Tunnel train to
settle into your hotel before train to Basel, on the Rhine.
Calais and then drive to the
spending the evening exploring the Day 2 Explore Basel on foot with your Champagne-producing town of
city on your own. guide before taking a train through Épernay.
Day 2 A private walking tour gives you an some of the region’s most scenic
Day 2 Drive to Montreux. After you settle
introduction to Cologne, including landscapes to Lugano.
into your hotel, stretch your legs on
its cathedral, before an afternoon Day 3 Sample the Italian-influenced the statue-lined promenade.
Rhine cruise to enjoy the panoramic gastronomy of Lugano in the
Day 3 With a private guide, discover
riverscape. morning with a private guide, then
Switzerland’s Lavaux wine region.
Day 3 Admire the views from the Intercity we’ll offer suggestions for exploring
on your own in the afternoon. Day 4 Drive along the Rhône Valley to the
Express as you travel along the
Alpine resort of Zermatt, where you
Rhine Valley and through the Black Day 4 Take the brief train ride to the
can enjoy a guided tour that includes
Forest to Basel. lakeside town of Como, where you
the Ice Palace.
Day 4 Take the train to lakeside Lucerne to can enjoy a free day to relax.
Day 5 Ride Europe’s highest cog railway up
enjoy the medieval architecture and Day 5 See Lake Como’s highlights on a
to the Gornergrat for views of the
surrounding mountain scenery. In private tour that includes Villa
Matterhorn and Gorner Glacier.
the afternoon, visit Glacier Garden Carlotta and Bellagio.
Hike back down and enjoy the
and walk along the Musegg Wall.
Day 6 Bid farewell to Como as a private afternoon on your own.
Day 5 Soak up the views from the lake on a driver takes you to Lake Maggiore,
Day 6 Drive from Zermatt to Stresa on
cruise before a private tasting with where you’ll have the day to spend
Lake Maggiore, where you can
an artisanal chocolatier. as you wish.
unwind by the water.
Day 6 A panoramic train takes you through Day 7 A private boat tour gives you a
Day 7 Take a private boat to discover
the heart of the Bernese Oberland chance to visit the Borromean
the lake’s Borromean Islands with
to the Alpine town of Grindelwald, Islands.
a guide.
where you can walk through
mountain meadows. Day 8 Your driver will take you to Milan to
Day 8 Enjoy a morning at the lake before
catch a train through the Alps to
driving to Zürich to spend the
Day 7 Enjoy views of the Eiger, Mönch and Paris. Spend your last night enjoying
afternoon exploring the city on
Jungfrau peaks and the Aletsch the City of Light.
your own.
Glacier from the ‘Top of Europe’ in
the morning and explore Day 9 Board the Eurostar for your trip
Day 9 Meet your guide for a private tour of
Grindelwald in the afternoon. home.
Zürich’s old town before spending
the afternoon at Rhine Falls.
Day 8 Return to London by train via Basel Stay longer
and Paris. Day 10 Return to Épernay, where you can
Spend a few extra days in Paris or Milan, or add a
stop in Zürich on your way to the lakes. delve more deeply into the town
Stay longer with our suggestions.
You could spend time in the Black Forest or Day 11 Head home through the
venture farther east into Germany for a visit Channel Tunnel.
to Munich.

www.audleytravel.com/switzerland • 01993 683 180 • Switzerland 123


The Netherlands
H ome to tulip fields, canal-laced cities, fleets of cyclists and a vibrant artistic legacy, the
Netherlands offers a chance to explore a small country that’s easy to navigate and overflowing
with things to see and do. Our specialists have explored the country extensively and can offer expert
help to craft a trip that suits your interests, whether that’s enjoying Dutch food on a cycling tour of
Rotterdam, exploring the windmills of Kinderdijk or visiting Anne Frank’s house in Amsterdam.

We can also arrange for you to visit some of the Netherlands’ lesser-trodden cities, such as Maastricht,
with its strong culinary tradition, or Utrecht, which combines a well-preserved core with a lively
university population. Discover the Golden Age glories of Delft and learn to paint your own tile at the
Delft Royal factory, see an extensive collection of artworks by Van Gogh at the Kröller-Müller Museum
or explore the medieval town of Amersfoort.

Audley in the Netherlands Amsterdam, from cheeses to poffertjes (sweet, some of the Netherlands’ best places to stay
fluffy pancakes). Or explore Utrecht’s split-level based on their authenticity, character and
You can easily fill your free time in the streets on foot and from its canals by glass- personal service. It means they can match
Netherlands taking strolls along its canals, topped boat. Our specialists can also arrange for options to your preferences and budget, so
dropping into museums and galleries on a whim you to tour Amsterdam’s Jewish Quarter to learn where you stay is as much a highlight as what you
and watching daily life over a steaming cup of more about life during World War II, or spend a do on your trip.
coffee. But, to help you really get to know the day visiting small rural towns.
In Utrecht, you could spend a few nights in a
country, our specialists have chosen a selection
restored canal house complete with wooden
of things to do in the Netherlands that delve Accommodation beams and stone arches. Your base in The Hague
deeper into its history and culture.
From hotels housed in 15th-century former could be a 19th-century mansion where King
You could take a break from Rotterdam to visit convents and monasteries to nautical-themed Willem III would host private events. Or, choose
Kinderdijk’s collection of 18th-century windmills. retreats on Rotterdam’s waterfront, your something a little lower key in Rotterdam, such
Paint your own Delft ceramic tile and learn more exploration of the Netherlands’ history and as a boutique hotel with a relaxing library, a
about the craft’s history in the Hague. Sample culture doesn’t have to stop when you get back lounge with wood-burning stove and an intimate
traditional Dutch delicacies on a walking tour of to your hotel. Our specialists have hand-picked piano bar.

124
Amsterdam
The Netherlands’ capital and a cosmopolitan
slands
hub, Amsterdam’s past as a major trading ian I
Fris
post and colonial power has resulted in a
diverse and multifaceted city. You’ll find a Groningen
I I
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
I I
free-spirited atmosphere, a plenitude of I I I I

I I
I I I I

I I
I I I I
I
Texel

I I
museums and an unusual building style born
I

I I
I
of its low-lying, canal-threaded landscape.

I
I

I
I
I

I
I I
NETHERLANDS

I
You can take tours exploring Amsterdam’s

I
I
I
I
I
historic districts or its Jewish history and

I I I
Alkmaar

I
importance in World War II, including a visit 0 25 miles

I I
I
I
I
I
Edam

I I
0 40 kilometres
to the Anne Frank museum. A boat tour I
I

2 AMSTERDAM

I I
I
I
along the canals lets you see the city from a I

IJss
I
I

I II I
I
I

I
Keukenhof
I
I
different perspective, along with the history
I I

el
I
I
I
Gardens
I I

I I
I
I I I I I I I I I

I
I I I I I I I I
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I
I I I
of the shipping lanes that still influence the

I
I I I

I
I I

I I I I
Leiden Hoge Veluwe
I
1

I
Utrecht

I
National
city’s success. See Dutch Masters at the 3

I
The Hague
I
Park

I
I
I I

I
Delft Gouda

I
I I
Rijksmuseum, or visit smaller galleries I I I I I I I

I
I
I

I
Kinderdijk

I
I

I I
devoted to individual artists, like the Van I
Rotterdam I Waal
5

I I I I I I

I I
I
Gogh Museum and Rembrandt House. 4

I I
I
I I
GERMANY

I I I
I
I

Ma
Edam, Volendam

I
I

I
I I I

I I

as
I I

I
I
I

I
& Marken
I

I
I I

I
II I I

I
I I
I I

I
I I
I I I I I

I I
I I I
I I I
I
Spend the day exploring some of the I I

I I
I I I
I
I
I
I I

I I I
Netherlands’ smaller towns, see 17th- I I
BELGIUM

I
century architecture and get a sense of life in

I
I I I
the Dutch countryside. Accompanied by a

I
I
local guide, you’ll visit three villages that exist Maastricht
far outside city life, each with its own style.

You’ll start with a drive to Edam, a small,


canal-threaded town with a well-preserved
old town that’s best known for its
eponymous cheese. 1 The Hague 3 Delft tile painting 4 Rotterdam
The Hague, seat of the Dutch Learn how Royal Delft makes The largest seaport in Europe
Next, you’ll take a boat across to Marken, a government and the its signature pottery and paint with hip street art and a bold,
tiny village that used to house a community International Court of Justice, your own tile to take home ever-changing ultramodern
of monks, where many small wooden houses also has stately medieval with you. skyline.
are built on posts. buildings, fine art galleries and a See page 126 See page 127
Finally, you’ll drive to Volendam, a larger seaside resort.
5 Windmills
town with a labyrinthine housing quarter in See page 126
These monumental machines
an old fishery district, and a thriving port
2 Amsterdam have kept the country dry for
where you can see the wooden fishing boats A city laced with canals, filled centuries and still dot the
out in the Markermeer Lake. with museums and studded landscape. Visit some 16th-
with tulips, Amsterdam is a century examples in Kinderdijk.
De L’Europe, Amsterdam
cosmopolitan hub with a See page 127
Situated on the foundations of a medieval
friendly atmosphere.
guard tower, the De L’Europe combines
See this page Delft pottery
modern comfort with old-fashioned
opulence and a riverside location. The
hotel’s 111 suites and rooms, many of which
have river views, are well appointed and Anne Frank walking tour
feature marble-clad bathrooms. The hotel is
This walking tour of Amsterdam’s Jewish and religion in the Netherlands and
also home to two restaurants, including the
Quarter offers a glimpse into the city’s rich throughout the world.
Michelin-starred Bord’Eau and Brasserie
history as a safe haven for Jewish people, as
Marie. Just outside the door, you can visit You’ll also see the home where diarist Anne
well as places significant to Anne Frank and
Dam Square, the Royal Palace, and the Frank lived before she and her family were
her family before, during and after World
Bloemenmarkt. forced into hiding during Nazi occupation.
War II.
You’ll see where she attended school, the
A local guide will take you on a three-to bookstore where her diary was purchased
four-hour walk where you’ll see the sobering and the home her father returned to after
Auschwitz Monument, before heading to the surviving the Holocaust. As you walk, look
Jewish Historical Museum. The museum is down and see copper plaques embedded
home to 11,000 items pertaining to the into the ground, commemorating the life and
history, ceremony and art of Jewish culture death of each of the Frank family members.

Amsterdam

www.audleytravel.com/netherlands • 01993 683 739 • Netherlands 125


Rotterdam

The Hague Delft tour & tile workshop Utrecht


Known worldwide as the seat of international Spend the day strolling the streets of Delft, best Once the religious and commercial hub of the
justice and peace negotiations, The Hague is also known for its intricate white-and-blue Delft Netherlands, Utrecht blends the youthful energy
the political capital of the Netherlands. The royal pottery. Your local guide will show you around of its university culture with centuries-old pride.
family resides here and tends to mingle with the the well-preserved old town with its shaded The city’s many museums, restaurants, bars and
general populace. It’s easy to spend several days canals and two major churches, the massive shops are built into its antique canal houses.
exploring the city’s many historic buildings, Nieuwe Kerk and the visibly leaning tower of the The most important city in the country until
excellent museums and nearby seaside area, Oude Kerk. Then, head to the Royal Delft Amsterdam took over in the Dutch Golden Age,
Scheveningen. factory to learn about the history and the city’s canals, canal houses and cathedral
craftsmanship behind Delftware pottery. In a tower are well preserved and integrated into
You can visit the government square, called the
one-hour workshop, you’ll also get to paint your everyday life.
Binnenhof, the gardens of the royal palace, the
own tile to take home with you.
Mauritshuis museum with its Dutch Masters and Utrecht’s canal system is unique among the canal
the Peace Palace, the early 20th-century cities of Europe: the gabled canal houses here
Hotel Des Indes, The Hague
experiment in bringing an end to wars, all on a have lower floors that open at water level. The
Situated on the edge of a tree-lined park in the
walking tour we can arrange for you. effect in today’s city is a two-layered street level,
historic Lange Voorhout, the Hotel Des Indes
adding a vertical dimension to pedestrian city life.
The stately stone buildings and grand royal parks was originally built as a mansion for King Willem
surround a historic district of narrow streets and III and became a hotel in 1881. At the top of the
local shops, plus museums ranging from the grand staircase is a viewing gallery beneath a
Utrecht walking tour
Escher Museum to the Louwman Museum, a domed ceiling, where guests would be Delve into the history of Utrecht on this guided
collection of vintage cars housed in a hyper- introduced at royal events. One wall is dedicated walking tour of the city’s old town and then
modern building. to signed pictures of the many luminaries who cruise the terrace-lined canals in a glass-topped
have visited the hotel since its beginnings. boat to see the city from a new perspective.
On the banks of the North Sea, The Hague’s
seaside resort, Scheveningen, is worth a visit for The 79 rooms and 13 suites are lavish enough for You’ll see sights like the tallest tower in the
its excellent pier and beachfront. a king, decorated in classic ivory, gold and jewel Netherlands and a house built in the 16th-
tones with dark oak furniture and cushions in red century for the Dutch pope as you glide beneath
The most popular stretch of sand in the gently arched bridges and past medieval
and violet velvet. The hallways are painted with
Netherlands, its boulevard and beach pavilions fortifications.
tulips, each one by a different local artist.
offer places where you can walk and take in the
sights, or change and go down to the beach for a
swim or a nap on the sand.

126
Suggested itinerary
Tailoring your trip
The itineraries shown here are designed to give
you a flavour of what’s possible and are routes
that work particularly well. We can use these as Amsterdam

a basis to plan your trip or we can design a Netherlands


completely different itinerary to suit your tastes
and interests. Please call one of our Netherlands
Delft specialists to start planning your itinerary.

Rotterdam T 01993 683 739


Bruges
Brussels
Europe’s largest seaport and one of the Getting around Belgium
Netherlands’ most modern cities, Rotterdam
With private transfers and local guides to
showcases wide rivers and busy working
accompany you on your excursions, we’ve
ports. Extensive bombing during World War
II destroyed much of the city, but its rebuilding
ensured that getting around the Netherlands is Brussels & Amsterdam
has been focused on creating a new, modern
comfortable and hassle-free. Most of your by Rail
journeys will be on flat, quiet roads in a private, Visit the capital cities of Brussels and Amsterdam
skyline and allowing contemporary
air-conditioned vehicle. Within the cities, one of on this weeklong getaway, which offers an
architecture to flourish. At the same time,
the best ways to get around is by bus, tram or interactive look at both countries. Basing yourself
places like the City Hall, Laurencekerk and the
metro, or you could cycle, as the locals do. For in the two cities, you’ll explore some of the
Delfshaven district have been carefully
travel between cities, the national rail network is smaller towns and villages for a taste of more
preserved.
easy to use, with ticket machines in English and traditional life. Enjoy walking, bicycle and boat
tours during your trip to take advantage of the
clean, comfortable trains. Cruising the canals is
Windmills of Kinderdijk varied landscapes.
also common, with a range of vessels from classic
See one of the largest collections of 18th- tugboats to glass-topped canal boats. Day 1 Take the Eurostar to Brussels and,
century windmills on this tour of Kinderdijk, a after settling into your hotel, get to
small Dutch village outside Rotterdam. It’s When to go know the city’s historic district on a
home to 19 traditional windmills, some guided walking tour.
wooden, some stone and many of them still in Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Day 2 Ride the train to Bruges for a guided
working order. Spend a few hours admiring ~ ~ 3 3 3 33 33 33 33 33 3 3 canal tour and time to explore on
these familiar Dutch symbols, learn about the your own.
33 The best time to travel.
history of water management and the 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. Day 3 Visit a museum or take a trip to see
windmills’ construction, and go inside a ~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year. Ghent – you’ll have today to explore
5 Travel is not recommended.
working windmill to understand how it helps on your own, guided by our
The Netherlands is a true year-round suggestions.
keep the land above water.
destination, with mild temperatures for much of Day 4 Board a high-speed train to
the year and several winter festivals in the colder Amsterdam, where you can take a
months. April is a busy month, with thousands guided tasting tour of the city after
arriving to see the tulip festivals and flower checking into your hotel.
gardens. In July and August, the country bustles Day 5 A private driver will take you on a
with visitors from Europe and North America. tour of three traditional fishing
The weather is balmy, and the low-lying coastal villages, where you’ll see
cheesemaking, vibrantly painted
land keeps temperatures comfortable. In the
houses and wooden ships.
colder months from December to March, things
are quieter and less costly, though there are Day 6 Spend your day exploring as you
wish. You could hire a bicycle, visit
spikes in crowds during the Christmas market
a museum to see the works of
season and February’s Carnival. For the best Dutch Masters or take the train
balance of value, quiet and activities, visit in June out to Utrecht.
Resistance Memorial, Utrecht or between September and November, when Day 7 Return to London on the Eurostar.
the leaves change and the foods and beers of the
festive season emerge. Stay longer
Time difference: GMT +1 hour Spend a few nights in the ultramodern port city of
Rotterdam, detour to Paris or continue east to
Cologne or the Black Forest. You can also add
Prices
military tours through the Belgium countryside.
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
for your trip to the Netherlands on our website,
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
your plans.

Wooden clogs

www.audleytravel.com/netherlands • 01993 683 739 • Netherlands 127


Belgium
A n often-overlooked destination, Belgium shines thanks to its combination of medieval
city cores, 17th-century grandeur and monk-brewed ale. Our specialists have explored from the
sandy shores of the North Sea to the battlefields outside Bastogne in the south, and can craft a trip
that lets you experience the aspects of Belgium that capture your interest.

For such a small country, Belgium’s major cities have played an outsized role as major hubs of trading,
production and royal power. We’ll help you delve into each metropolis’s individual character and
historical significance with hand-picked tours and activities. In Bruges, you can enjoy a three-course
meal with a local family to try traditional dishes, while in Brussels, a guide can show you the hidden
corners of the European District, headquarters of the European Union. Take a boat tour of the
waterways around Ghent or explore its back streets with a local street artist.

Audley in Belgium both World Wars, enjoy a guided sampling of the and most interesting options. They’ll use their
country’s renowned beers or pedal along the knowledge to help you decide what style of stay
For centuries, large armies and vast trading coastal flats of Zwin Nature Park to drink in the suits your personal tastes and budget, whether
networks have treated Belgium as a crossroads peaceful quiet. Tour the Diamond District, a that’s a centrally located hotel with a light-
of northern Europe, leaving the country with a clearinghouse for most of the world’s diamonds, hearted Pop Art aesthetic or an understated
complex legacy that offers a wealth of and learn the art and science of gem cutting, or retreat in a quiet residential enclave.
experiences for you to explore. You could simply cruise along Ghent’s canals, sipping
For your stay in Antwerp, we might suggest an
sample the country’s signature foods, like frites, Champagne as you enjoy the cityscape.
elegant hotel with a gleaming white façade and
waffles and artisanal chocolates, on a walking
wrought-ironwork that belies its past as a
tour in Antwerp. Or, watch traditional shrimp Accommodation 16th-century banana warehouse. Or, in Brussels,
farmers tend their crustacean flock from
From regally appointed neoclassical guest homes you could base yourself in a former prison that
horseback on the beaches of Oostduinkerke.
to playful, modern boutique hotels, Belgium today boasts original artworks by Dutch painters
Our carefully chosen experiences capture the boasts a wealth of choices when you’re looking like Magritte. Whether your choice is based on a
essence of Belgium and cover a wide range of for a place to stay. Our specialists carefully property’s character or its luxuries, our
interests – you can explore battlefields from combed the entire country and curated the best specialists can pinpoint the best options for you.

127
Brussels
As European capital cities go, Brussels might
be the most underrated. The cosmopolitan

I
Amsterdam
city, rich with international flair due to its

I
North Sea I

I I I I
I
status as the EU capital, offers a variety of I
I
I
Düsseldorf
I
I
historical and cultural attractions.

I
I
I
4

I
I
Bruges Antwerp I I I

I
I I I I I I I

I
We can arrange a walking tour of the 1

se
I
I

I I
I

Meu
I
Ghent
I
I I
historic district, where you’ll see the arches Flanders Field

I I I I
I
I
American
I

and spires of the Grand Place and stroll Cemetery


I I
I
I 2

I
I
I
e BRUSSELS Leuven

I
along tree-lined avenues ringing rows of ld
I
Ypres
I

I
II II I
I
Cologne

he
I I I I
I

I
London
I

Sc
I I
gabled houses. Or tour the European I I I
Battlefield
I

I
I
I
I I I
I I I
I

I
I
I I I I I
I I
I
of Waterloo Liège I I

I
I I
Quarter, with its wide green parks,
I I I I I
I I

I
I I I I I
I I I II I I I I I I I I

I
I
I I I I

I
I

I
architecturally mixed governmental buildings
I

I I
I
BELGIUM

I
I

I
I I
I I
Mons I I I

I I

I I

I
I
and fine museums. Brussels is in fact home I

I
I

I I I I I
I
I

I I
Paris Namur Durbuy

I
I
to dozens of museums, from the standard

I I
I
I

I
I

I I
I
art and history museums to one of the Battle of

I
I
Dinant

I
the Bulge

I
I
I

I
world’s foremost automotive museums as

I I I
ARDENNES
Memorial
I

I
I
I

I
I
I

I
well as museums dedicated to beer, Bastogne

I
I
Paris
I

I
Luxembourg

I
bookmaking and Braille.

I
I I

I
I
I
I
You can also take tasting tours of Belgian

I
I

I
I I I
I

I
cuisine and of course, Belgian beer, for which I
I I 3
I I I
the region is renowned. And from Brussels, Luxembourg

you can visit smaller towns like Namur,


Dinant or Mons, or tour nearby World 0 30 miles
War II battlefields. 0 50 kilometres

Hotel Amigo, Brussels


With excellent dining options and top-level
1 Canal towns Military history
concierge service, the Hotel Amigo offers
From Bruges’ step-gabled Waterloo, Flanders Fields, the
the height of elegance in the heart of
houses to Ghent’s Gravensteen Battle of the Bulge – we can
Brussels’ historic district. The 154 rooms and
castle, Belgium’s canal towns are help you explore Belgium’s vital
19 suites offer a sense of contemporary chic
rich in medieval charm. role in military history.
while retaining a small, intimate feel. The
lobby, restaurants and rooms have been 2 Brussels Bruges Beer
individually designed, with embroidered silk The cosmopolitan EU capital Sample regional brews, visit an
3 Luxembourg
curtains, polished wood floors, bold boasts an international character, authentic tavern or explore one
Luxembourg’s capital city offers
furniture and original artwork by Magritte, cultural attractions and plenty of the country’s many dedicated
medieval tunnel systems,
Goossens and Broodthaers. The excellent of beer. beer museums.
modern museums and a
Ristorante Bocconi provides Italian-inspired See this page
confluence of German, French
cuisine. and Dutch culture.
See page 130
Bruges
4 Antwerp
Bruges is one of the best-preserved One of Europe’s biggest ports,
medieval towns in Europe, with near- Antwerp offers 16th-century
countless step-gabled houses in a riot of architecture, paintings by great
shades lining its photogenic canals. Originally artists and the world’s premier
the site of a 9th-century fortress, it became diamond district.
an important trading port and reached a See page 130
golden age of peace and prosperity in the Brussels Antwerp
14th century.

While the 16th century saw a reversal of


fortune for Bruges, the historic section of
town was rediscovered as a tourist
destination in the modern era. It’s also
known for its wide range of museums, which
cover a variety of cultural and historical
interests and regional art.

We can arrange walking tours, afternoons


on the canal and hikes and bicycle rides in
nearby Zwin Nature Park. Bruges is also a
good base for exploring the region or
exploring Flanders. Visit World War I sites
like Veurne, Flanders Field and Ypres, or see
the beaches at De Panne and Middelkerke.
Luxembourg City

www.audleytravel.com/belgium • 01993 683 739 • Belgium 128


Antwerp

Antwerp Bastogne &


Blending historic charm, a modern downtown
Battle of the Bulge tour
and one of Europe’s biggest ports, Antwerp is Take a day to soak in a deeper understanding of
Belgium’s second-largest city, yet is often one of the most critical battles of World War II
overlooked by visitors. With a legacy of artists – the Battle of the Bulge. With your private
like Peter Paul Rubens, a wealth of 16th-century guide, you’ll visit major sites near Liège that
architecture and a world-renowned diamond reveal the story of the leaders, the soldiers and Ghent
industry, this city sparkles in more ways than one. the casualties of Germany’s last major offensive.
During the 16th century, the city was responsible
You’ll stop first at the Battle of the Ardennes
Luxembourg City
for 40% of the world’s trading. Much of its
museum in La Roche, which delves into the daily A city split by a looming cliffside, Luxembourg
architecture reflects the wealth generated at this
lives of the soldiers as well as the battle itself. City is at the conflux of German, French and
time, with ornate churches, cathedrals and guild
Then you can visit the Bastogne War Museum, Dutch culture, and has long played an important
houses. The city’s position on the Scheldt River
which tells the most comprehensive story of the role in the European struggle for power. The city
also attracted artists – Rubens, Van Dyck and
Battle of the Bulge. was ruled by the Holy Roman Empire, Burgundy,
Jordaens all lived here. You can take walking
tours while tasting some of Belgium’s signature Near Bastogne, stop at the Mardasson Memorial, Spain, Austria, France, the Netherlands, Belgium
dishes, visit dozens of museums and enjoy boat which commemorates Americans who were and Germany, before finally becoming fully
rides on the Scheldt River. We can also arrange killed in the battle, and the Peace Woods, independent in the 1860s.
day trips to World War II memorial Fort planted on part of the battlefield. The old town is perched on top of a well-
Breendonk, or bicycle rides along the heritage fortified bluff overlooking the Alzette River, while
railway at Sint-Amands. Walking tour & the rest of the city sits along the banks of the river
private boat in Ghent in the Ville Basse. One of the first six countries to
join the European Union, the entire city of
Explore the cobblestone streets, medieval
Luxembourg is a UNESCO World Heritage site
architecture and peaceful canals of Ghent’s
due to the historical importance of its location
historic district on this combined tour and cruise.
and fortifications.
Your guide will lead you on a walking tour of
many of Ghent’s highlights, including Gravensteen In more recent history, Luxembourg also played
Castle, lively public squares, the Gothic Saint an important role in both World Wars, and is
Bavo’s Cathedral and the Ghent Belfry. now one of the wealthiest countries in the world.

Read more at: www.audleytravel.com/luxembourg


Antwerp

130
Suggested itinerary
Tailoring your trip
The itineraries shown here are designed to give Antwerp
Bruges
you a flavor of what’s possible and are routes
that work particularly well. We can use these as
a basis to plan your trip or we can design a Brussels
Liège
Luxembourg City completely different itinerary to suit your tastes
and interests. Please call one of our Belgium
specialists to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 683 739


Luxembourg City

Getting around
During your visit to Belgium, most of your
journeys between locations will be in private,
air-conditioned cars on flat, quiet roads with one Belgium Grand Tour
of our carefully chosen drivers. We’ll also ensure with Luxembourg
you have personal guides for each activity and On this ten-day tour, you’ll explore Belgium’s
Vianden, Luxembourg
tour. Cities are easy to explore on your own Flemish-speaking region of Flanders and
– locals and visitors alike use the intuitive system francophone region of Wallonia, as well as the
of public buses, trams and metros. Most cities relatively new country of Luxembourg. This
and towns also have an extensive network of comprehensive trip offers an overview of both
cycle lanes and you can rent a bicycle at any countries with tours of the highlights, like
Brussels and Antwerp, as well as time to discover
number of shops. In Bruges, you can also take
some less-visited sights, including the Zwin
advantage of the canals and enjoy a scenic cruise
Nature Reserve.
that gives you a new perspective on the city.
Day 1 Fly into Bruges and take a walking
When to go tour of the city.
Day 2 Explore nearby Ghent on foot and
War cemetery, Belgium Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec by canal boat with a guide.
~ ~ 3 3 3 33 33 33 33 33 3 33
Day 3 Take a guided bicycle tour of the
In Patton’s footsteps 33 The best time to travel. town of Damme and Zwin Nature
3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. Reserve.
On this tour, you’ll explore the history of one ~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
of the last decisive battles of World War II, 5 Travel is not recommended. Day 4 A private driver takes you to
Brussels. After settling into your
the Battle of the Bulge. Follow the trail of the Belgium is a year-round destination, and the best
hotel, enjoy a tour of the city.
leader who secured the Allied victory, time to visit depends on your tastes. The country
General George Patton, through some of the Day 5 Ride the train to Antwerp for a
boasts warm summers (June to August) that
guided culinary city tour.
places where it happened. aren’t too hot and are packed with cultural
events and festivals. Those are the busiest Day 6 Spend the day discovering Brussels’
The battle, whose name comes from the many museums and parks, guided by
expanding wedge the German troops put into months, when visitors come to enjoy the plentiful
our suggestions.
the Allied lines in Belgium and Luxembourg, sunshine and take advantage of summer holidays.
You’ll also find pleasant weather in April, May, Day 7 Head south to Liège. Settle into your
ended in a victory, but only after many lives hotel and then take a walking tour of
were lost. September and October, with mild days and cool
Wallonia’s capital.
nights. The crowds are much thinner than you’ll
Start your day at the General Patton find in the summer and prices are lower. You can Day 8 Retrace Patton’s footsteps at the
Memorial Museum in Ettelbruck, the city Battle of the Bulge, then continue
enjoy a plethora of Christmas festivities in
Patton and his Third Army liberated on onward to your hotel in
season, as well as Carnival in February and Luxembourg City.
Christmas Day in 1944. The museum is a March. The winter months are generally quieter,
trove of historical exhibits and objects related Day 9 Take a walking tour of the city’s
though Christmas markets and Carnival do cause
central historic district. You’re then
to the battle and to Patton’s life. Further a sharp increase in crowds. free to explore on your own.
north, at the site of the old Diekirch brewery,
Time difference: GMT +1 hour Day 10 Travel to the airport for your
is the National Museum of Military History,
international flight.
considered one of the best for World War II Prices
knowledge.
Stay longer
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
At the end of the day, you’ll visit the Start or end your trip in Paris or add time in the
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
Luxembourg American Cemetery and Netherlands.
for your trip to Belgium on our website,
Memorial, the burial place of the US soldiers
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
who died in the battle. General Patton, who
your plans.
died shortly after the war, was also buried
there at his request.

www.audleytravel.com/belgium • 01993 683 739 • Belgium 131


Scotland
S cotland is the wildest country in the United Kingdom, its landscape rugged, mountainous
and raw. It is a land of fervent patriots, rich history, craggy coastlines, smooth whisky and varied
wildlife. Scotland’s culture is quite distinct from that of England and its people are fiercely proud of their
nation. The capital, Edinburgh, is one of the most beautiful cities in the UK with a maze of narrow
medieval streets leading up to an imposing castle that looks down over a grid of wide boulevards lined
with gracious neoclassical townhouses. Glasgow, Scotland’s second city, is a vibrant place with a thriving
music and arts scene, a magnificent Gothic cathedral and Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s graceful
Shetland
architectural designs. Islands

Yet it is the great outdoors, a hiker’s and climber’s paradise, which makes Scotland truly magnificent.
Swathes of purple heather cover much of the countryside in summer, stately castles keep watch over
majestic lochs, soaring mountains emerge from ancient forests and brilliantly azure waters lap at
sandy beaches. You can hike through elemental landscapes, walk along castle ramparts
or discover the windswept bays along the furrowed coast; just take your pick.

Audley in Scotland
Throughout Scotland we offer historical Orkney
Islands
encounters, scenic exploration and
N
EA

opportunities to experience this magnificent


OC

country like a local. Whether your focus is


i de
br
TIC

He

on the culturally rich cities, discovering more


ter
N

of Scotland’s long and often violent history


Ou
LA

The

or getting active in the great outdoors, we


AT

Speyside
can suggest a range of unique experiences Isle of Portree Inverness
I

I
I
Skye
to suit your interests. We recommend
I I
1 2 ss I

Aviemore
Ne

I
journeying by private car with a driver or
I
I
ch

I
I The
Ben
Lo

Cairngorms
hiring your own car, either of which offers Nevis
I I I

I I
I
Fort WIlliam
I

I I
great flexibility and the opportunity to get Pitlochry
I
I

Glencoe
I
I

off the beaten track as you drive through the SCOTLAND


I

I
3
I

I
I I

Oban
I

I I I I I I

country’s spectacularly dramatic scenery. Perth


I
I

I
0 50 miles I
St Andrews
I

Loch I I
I

I
Our drivers and guides all have exceptional Awe Loch
I

0 80 kilometres
I

Lomond North
I

Jura
I

5
I

knowledge of their country, and their local


I

I I I I I I I I I
I I I I
Sea
I I I I I

Edinburgh
I

I
I
I

I I
expertise adds an immersive touch to your Glasgow
I

4
I

Islay
I
I

I
I I

time in Scotland.
I
I
I

I
I I

I
I

I
I

Accommodation
I
I I I
I I

I
I

I I
ENGLAND
I I I

Scotland offers a wide range of characterful


I

NORTHERN
I I

accommodation from historic country


I

IRELAND
I

I
I
I I I

manors and castles to modern city boltholes


I
I
I

I
I I
I

I
I
with top international standards. Our
I

I
I
I I I
I

specialists have carefully chosen the hotels


I I

I
I
I I I

I
I I

they recommend and can suggest ideas


I I

1 Landscape of the 4 Islay’s whiskies Castles


I

based specifically on your tastes and budget.


I

I
I
I

Isle of Skye
I I

The capital, Edinburgh, has diverse options Discover Islay’s eight whisky Romantic ruins and stately
I I I
I I

I I I

I I I
Explore Skye’s wild and distilleries, located around the buildings, Scotland is replete
I I

from stately mansions and classically elegant


I I

I I I I I I I I
I

I I
I
I

I
I

dramatic mountains, rock island’s picturesque coastline with historic fortresses, often
I
townhouses to boutique B&Bs and decadent
I

I
I

I
I

I I I
I I
I

I
I

I I
Gothic-style suites. Outside the cities the formations, lochs and beaches and serene bays. situated in dramatic locations.
I

I
I
I
I

I
I
I

on foot with a local. See pages 140-141


I

range is not quite so broad but includes


I
I
I

I
I
I

I
I
I

I
SeeI page 141
I

some highly memorable options such as


I
I
I

I I
I
5 Edinburgh’s Old Town
I

I I
I
I

I
I

I
romantic castles, historic inns, country
I

I I

2 Loch Ness Cobbled alleyways overlooked


I

I
I

I I
I
I

lodges with excellent outdoor facilities and Soak up the mystery and by towering buildings, the
I I

I I I I

I I
I

I
I

I
family-owned hotels with an emphasis on
I
I

I
beauty of the area while medieval Old Town is a
I

I I

I
I

I
I I I

providing impeccable hospitality. This


I
I I

watching out for the loch’s picturesque maze to explore.


I
I

I
I I
I

brochure features just a selection of those


I

famed monster. See pages 134-135 I I


I

I I
I
I

I I I
I
I

I I I I I I I I
we recommend, your specialist will discuss
I

I I
See page 144 I

your options with you once you decide on Wildlife


an itinerary. 3 Dramatic Glencoe Scotland’s mountains, glens,
Admire the majestic scenery coast and lochs are home to a
of the West Highlands as you wide variety of wildlife, including
explore rugged Glencoe. many threatened species.
See page 142 See page 147
Kilchurn Castle on Loch Awe

www.audleytravel.com/scotland • 01993 683 589 • Scotland 133


View over Edinburgh from Calton Hill

Edinburgh Edinburgh’s contrasts


Dominated by an imposing castle and renowned Laid out across a series of craggy, volcanic
for its mixture of high culture and cosmopolitan outcrops, Edinburgh’s buildings rise like flights of
cool, Edinburgh is Scotland’s historic capital. It’s steps over seven ancient hills. The city has
an alluring place, littered with fine architecture, something of a split personality with a network
great museums and a host of lively restaurants of narrow, meandering lanes weaving through the
and bars. The Old Town is split by the cobbled Old Town and grand, neoclassical boulevards
Royal Mile which is flanked by 17th-century traversing the new. The picturesque medieval
merchant houses as it leads steeply upwards city is a warren of close-knit cobbled streets and
from the Palace of Holyroodhouse towards lofty alleyways known as closes and wynds that are
Edinburgh Castle. A UNESCO World Heritage lined with towering tenement buildings, ancient
Site and City of Literature, Edinburgh has strong churches and atmospheric vaults. By contrast,
connections to literary giants, a world-famous the stately New Town, which grew up in the 18 th
military tattoo and the Edinburgh Festival Fringe century on the outskirts of the original city walls,
arts festival, yet it has a vibrant, youthful The Witchery by the Castle, Edinburgh follows an orderly grid pattern, its wide streets
character and a sophisticated but down-to-earth flanked by harmonious, neoclassical buildings and
air. To survey it all take a walk up Arthur’s Seat, The Witchery by the Castle, elegant gardens. Around it lie large, leafy parks,
the remains of a long-extinct volcano, for Edinburgh many providing glorious views over the city and
panoramic views. The Witchery by the Castle is a restaurant with surrounding area.
rooms rather than a hotel and provides a
sumptuous experience. Each of the nine suites is
decorated in a glamorously Gothic style. Expect
suits of armour, hidden doors, dark and vibrant
hues and opulent furnishings. Each suite is almost
theatrically decorated to the highest standards.
All are accessed by a narrow, winding staircase,
which serves to enhance the medieval
experience of staying here. The Witchery is
ideally located on the Royal Mile, just below the
castle, and its restaurant is highly acclaimed as
one of the best in the city.
Piper on the Royal Mile, Edinburgh View of Edinburgh’s Old Town

134
Band at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo Arthur’s Seat, Edinburgh

Edinburgh Castle

Window shopping, Edinburgh Neoclassical architecture in New Town, Edinburgh

The Balmoral, Edinburgh


The entrance hall of The Balmoral, with its high
ceiling and glorious flower arrangements, gives a
taste of the opulence to come in a building that
began life as a hotel in 1902. Located right in the
heart of Edinburgh, The Balmoral enjoys views
across the hills, spires and monuments of the city.
Decor in the 188 rooms is traditional, with
deluxe fabrics and local Scottish artwork, while
the hotel’s public areas have fireplaces, stained
glass windows and hand-painted silk wallpaper.
Palace of Holyroodhouse, Edinburgh Dining options here are superb: the hotel has a
Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant as well as
Castles & palaces an excellent brasserie and whisky bar.

Edinburgh and its surrounds have been the scene Old Town Chambers, Edinburgh
of many strategic battles over the years and the
region is littered with historic monuments that Old Town Chambers,
tell the tale of tumultuous politics, bickering Edinburgh
royalty and lavish wealth. Lording over the city is These deluxe self-catering apartments are
Edinburgh Castle, a towering landmark sitting on situated just off the centrally located Royal Mile.
volcanic Castle Rock. Most of what you can see There are 50 apartments varying in size from a
dates from between the 15th and 17th centuries, studio to a three bedroom apartment, and some
the castle having been attacked and rebuilt on have a balcony or terrace. All are spacious and
numerous occasions. At the opposite end of the beautifully furnished, with wooden floors, bright
Royal Mile stands the Palace of Holyroodhouse, decor in the living room, a modern kitchen, a
once home of Mary, Queen of Scots, and now dining table and en suite bedrooms. The
the royal family’s official Scottish residence. West apartments are minimalist and elegant in style,
of Edinburgh, the lakeside ruins of Linlithgow and some have additional features such as
Palace mark Mary’s birthplace, while nearby exposed stone walls or city views. There is a
Blackness Castle sits on the Firth of Forth, the good-sized fitness suite in the main building,
water lapping at its rocky foundations. which employs a personal trainer.
The Balmoral, Edinburgh

www.audleytravel.com/scotland • 01993 683 589 • Scotland 135


Inside Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Glasgow

Glasgow Glasgow’s art & music scene


On either side of the River Clyde lies Glasgow, a Glasgow’s flourishing creativity is evident from its
place as folksy as it is cosmopolitan. Victorian beautiful architecture to its successful music
Glasgow was at the forefront of the rise of the scene, with several galleries replete with works
steamship, at one time responsible for producing by international masters. Much of the
25% of the world’s ocean liners. But, after the architecture in central Glasgow is indebted to
Great Depression, the city began to fall into the Glasgow School of Art, whose alumni include
decline. After decades on the wane following the some of modern history’s most influential
disappearance of its major industries, Glasgow designers and architects including Charles Rennie
experienced a renaissance in the 1980s when Mackintosh. Throughout the city you can find
businesses began to invest in the city. Now Kimpton Blythswood Square Hotel, Glasgow notable buildings interspersed with remnants of
revived, Scotland’s largest city is home to the city’s industrial past. Here Glasgow City
innovative restaurants, flourishing creative Kimpton Blythswood Square Council has funded emerging local street artists
industries and venues hosting some of Britain’s Hotel, Glasgow to transform some of these areas. Today as you
best live music. In addition to its offerings, the Tranquil Blythswood Square is a Georgian explore you’ll happen upon a kaleidoscopic
city is only a 45-minute drive from Loch Lomond enclave in central Glasgow, home to this spaceman, an oversized tiger and a floating taxi,
and the Trossachs National Park. sophisticated hotel which merges the grandeur among many others. A trailblazing UNESCO City
of the original building with sleek, minimalist of Music, Glasgow has also encouraged musical
design. From the chic, Art Deco-style reception creativity and the city is renowned for launching
hall with its black-and-white marble floors and careers and hosting epic gigs.
slender white columns to the understated rooms
and spacious spa, you can expect great service
and facilities. The 140 rooms are calm and
uncluttered, and feature vintage photographs of
the area and a welcome basket of local snacks.
Service is impeccable throughout and The
Restaurant, set in a grand former ballroom, is
highly regarded for its menu of classic Scottish
dishes with a modern twist. There is a
well-stocked bar and a spa offering an array
of holistic treatments.
The Clyde Waterfront and Finnieston Crane, Glasgow Rogue-one’s floating taxi, Glasgow

136
Bumble bee, Trossachs National Park

Wooded path, Loch Lomond Loch Lomond

Loch Lomond Arms, Luss


The Loch Lomond Arms is an attractive
17th-century coaching inn with 14 characterful
rooms above its traditional bar and restaurant.
Situated at the end of Luss’s main street, it is
ideally located for exploring the villages of the
western shore as well as the loch itself. The
public bar has a lively, friendly atmosphere and is
well stocked with local ales, while the restaurant
has a focus on seasonal and local ingredients.
There is a fishing and game theme throughout
Seaplane tour
Row of cottages, Luss the public areas downstairs, with tartan The wild landscape surrounding Loch
furniture and fishing prints on the walls. The Lomond is largely inaccessible by road
Loch Lomond rooms are each named after a Scottish clan, and and the distances involved mean that on
have contemporary decor with traditionally foot only fragments can be explored. By
Gateway to the Highlands and Great Britain’s
Scottish elements, notably the palette and air, however, the magnificent scenery is
largest lake, Loch Lomond is a glittering expanse
tartan bed throw. revealed in all its glory, the sweeping
of water set between brooding mountains. Small
landscape of majestic mountains, lush
islands litter its southern end but as you head
glens and vast lochs unfolding before
north, the lake narrows entering a deep ravine
you. A 40-minute seaplane tour over
gouged out by glaciers. The lake and the
the area is a chance to see the beautiful
surrounding wooded glens and quiet lochs of
scenery from a unique vantage point,
the Trossachs offer numerous outdoor activities
with your pilot calling attention to
with excellent walking, mountain biking, kayaking
various points of interest along the way.
and canoeing. Much of the eastern shore is
The seaplane tour takes in Loch
accessible only on foot or by ferry making it a
Lomond and the Trossachs as well as
very tranquil area to walk among oak woods and
heading out towards Scotland’s west
moorland, past tumbling waterfalls and dramatic
coast, passing some of the country’s
lookouts. A string of villages overlook the
most renowned mountains, ancient
western shore including picturesque Luss, its
castles, abbeys and royal residences.
little streets lined with attractive cottages, tea
rooms and art shops.
Loch Lomond Arms, Luss

www.audleytravel.com/scotland • 01993 683 589 • Scotland 137


Oban

Oban Wildlife cruises from Oban


On the wet and windy western coast of The rain-drenched archipelago of the Inner
Scotland, Oban is a small port town that serves Hebrides offers some of Scotland’s wildest, most
the Argyll area. During warmer months, the varied landscapes, and Oban acts as a gateway to
narrow streets bustle thanks to the ferries and seeing some of them. You’ll find black basalt
tour boats that dock here, a vital connection columns rising abruptly from the ocean as well as
between the mainland and the Inner Hebrides. serene white-sand beaches curving around
The crowds include both visitors and hardy aquamarine coves. Ruined castles seem to
residents who still make a living from the land as appear out of the ever-present mist and
crofters. The town is conveniently located for white-tailed sea eagles soar overhead. A cruise
exploring both the islands and the castles and around some of the islands offers a way to
glens of Argyll. You’ll also find a distillery, a experience their myriad pleasures from
monumental Victorian folly, and exceptional the water. Spot seabirds including guillemots,
restaurants which serve fresh seafood, delivered Creel of crabs, Oban shags, gulls and cormorants, as well as sea
straight from the fishing boats, creating Oban’s mammals like seals and perhaps even porpoises
unofficial title as the ‘seafood capital of Scotland’. The Perle Hotel, Oban and basking sharks.
This elegant hotel sits on Oban’s waterfront in
the heart of the city. Its grand, heritage exterior
is complemented by a decidedly contemporary
interior which blends the high ceilings and period
details with plush drapes, light wooden floors
and feature lighting. These clean lines and vibrant
tones continue into the 59 rooms, which are
spacious and attractive. All have tall windows
which bathe the rooms in natural light and, in
some cases, offer sweeping views across the bay.
The hotel restaurant serves Mediterranean fare
at lunch and in the evening, while the hotel’s
cafe-bar, Brew & Co, serves hot drinks and
snacks during the day and cocktails in the
evening.
The Perle Hotel, Oban Wildlife cruise from Oban

138
White-tailed eagle, Inner Hebrides Fishing boats, Oban Inveraray Castle

Castle Stalker reflected in Loch Linnhe

Barcaldine Castle, near Oban


A 17th-century castle set on the shore of Loch
Argyll’s castles Creran, Barcaldine Castle offers a taste of
The land around Oban is dense with the Scottish history with all modern comforts. It’s a
history of Argyll’s feuding clans and ancient handsome structure with numerous turrets
kings. Castles and hill forts dot the region, topping the thick, stone walls and the setting is
some crumbled to ruin while others are still quintessentially Scottish with views over the loch
immaculately kept. North of Oban, Castle to the mountains of Glencoe. Inside, a spiral
Stalker is a stolid, square tower perched on stone staircase leads to the impressive Great
a small island in Loch Linnhe. Its angular bulk Hall, which is lined with wood panels and
stands against a backdrop of gently rounded mounted trophy heads which alternate with
mountains in the distance, a sight that may gilt-framed portraits. A fire is lit in the large
be familiar to fans of Monty Python and the fireplace here in the evenings, and candles flicker
Holy Grail — this was the setting for the in nooks in the stone walls of the staircase. The
Castle of AAAArghh. On the shores of six rooms are all individual in style, size and
Loch Awe to the east of Oban, Kilchurn layout. Some have secret staircases leading into
Castle has also fallen into disrepair, though the turrets, some feature regal-looking four-
the ruins are safe to explore. Once a poster beds or intricately-carved wooden
stronghold of the Campbell clan, its broken furniture, while others are slightly more
walls are framed by gorse-gilded mountains contemporary in style.
and reflected in the still waters of the loch.
By contrast, Inveraray Castle is still home to Kilchurn Castle, Loch Awe
the Duke of Argyll, Chief of the Clan
Campbell. Its slate-roofed turrets and walls. By far the oldest in the area is Dunadd
well-manicured grounds seem more suited Hill Fort. This was once the seat of the kings
to France’s Loire Valley than the glens of of Dál Riata, an ancient Gaelic kingdom that
Scotland. The rooms reflect the castle’s encompassed western Scotland and
18th-century heyday, including an armoury northeastern Ireland, whose kings eventually
that boasts soaring ceilings and a mind- overthrew the Picts to unite Scotland as the
boggling number of vintage weapons on the Kingdom of Alba.

Barcaldine Castle, near Oban

www.audleytravel.com/scotland • 01993 683 589 • Scotland 139


View to Ardbeg Distillery, Islay

Islay Islay House


A large manor that overlooks Loch Indaal from
Renowned for its peaty whisky, sandy beaches
a hilly vantage point, Islay House is an exclusive
and rich history and wildlife, Islay is easily
country retreat. The house has an impressive
accessible from mainland Scotland. The island has
façade with the grandeur increasing as you step
been inhabited since prehistoric days and is
inside. Wellington boots and umbrellas by the
littered with historic remains such as early
front door are for guests’ use on the various
Christian crosses, medieval ruins and crofters’
activities the hotel can arrange such as fishing,
cottages. The island is best known for its eight
hiking and stalking. A sweeping spiral staircase
whisky distilleries, but while here you can also
leads to the 11 rooms, each decorated in a style
enjoy the rugged scenery, quiet beaches and
in keeping with the history of the house. The
great diversity of bird and marine life. Although
chef places great importance on local provenance
relatively small, Islay has only two roads and can
and grows many of the ingredients used in the
be slow to get around, but easing into the
restaurant in the hotel’s kitchen garden. Cottage ruins, Jura
unhurried pace of island life is one of Islay’s
greatest joys.
Exploring by boat Jura
Taking a cruise in a small motorboat is a fantastic Bounded by surging seas and dotted with restless
way to see more of the island from the unique herds of red deer, the Isle of Jura provides a
perspective of the water. It offers plentiful glimpse into Scotland’s untamed past. Despite
opportunities to spot seabirds, seals, wild goats the fact that it’s one of the largest islands in the
and, if you’re lucky, dolphins, porpoises and Inner Hebrides, this wild isle is home to just a
basking sharks. The captain is a knowledgeable few hundred hardy souls in a scattered handful of
and characterful local resident who points out small villages. There’s just one road and most of
various sites of interest as well as any notable the island is inaccessible except by foot or boat.
wildlife visible along the way. The seashore Visitors come for the waters, which are rich with
around this part of the island has a fascinating marine wildlife, the rounded mountains and the
history, as well as interesting geology. The boat vast population of red deer, Scotland’s largest
passes hidden beaches, waterfalls, caves, land mammal. More than 6,000 roam the island,
shipwrecks and distilleries, and in addition to outnumbering the humans 24 to 1. In fact, the
mammals you’re likely to spot many varieties of name ‘Jura’ is thought to derive from the Old
sea birds. Norse word for ‘Deer Island’.
Islay House

140
Vintage whiskies, Speyside

Whisky
Known worldwide for its complex single Islay
malts, Scotland’s pure water, peaty soil and Comprising just one island, Islay supports
age-old traditions combine to create some of eight distilleries. The island’s peaty water and
the world’s most famous whiskies. The exposure to the sea and strong winds
country has six different whisky regions, each contribute to the whisky’s strong taste.
with its own distinct taste and smell. These Typical characteristics: Heavily smoky, peaty,
regions vary hugely in size and concentration fairly salty
of whisky producers, with some of the Known for: Lagavulin
smallest regions containing the greatest
Islands
number of distilleries. Here is a brief overview
(not always recognised as a distinct region)
of the characteristics of the whisky from
All the other Scottish islands fall under the
each region:
Islands whisky region, from Arran in the south
Lowlands to the Shetlands in the far north.
An area covering the south of Scotland Typical characteristics: Varied – mostly fairly
including Glasgow and Edinburgh. This is the smoky, gently peated
second largest whisky region, but has only a Known for: Talisker
handful of distilleries. Pot stills, Highlands Speyside
Typical characteristics: Light, gentle, triple
A small area in the north east of Scotland
distilled, low salinity Highlands
spanning the River Spey, there are over 60
Known for: Auchentoshan This is the largest region, spanning from just
distilleries here, including most of the
north of Glasgow all the way to the north
best-known exports.
coast of the mainland. There are over 25
Typical characteristics: From light and gentle
distilleries here which between them produce
to sweet and rich
around a quarter of all Scotland’s whisky.
Known for: Macallan
Typical characteristics: Fruity, full-bodied,
some peat and smoke, some spice
Known for: Oban

Campbeltown
A small region on the Kintyre Peninsula, this
region has declined in productivity over the
years, with most of its distilleries now closed.
Typical characteristics: Varied – from light
and gentle to heavily smoked
Known for: Glengyle
Malting floor, Islay Lagavulin Distillery, Islay

www.audleytravel.com/scotland • 01993 683 589 • Scotland 141


Steam train on the Glenfinnan Viaduct, the West Highlands

The West Highlands Glencoe


Raw and unforgiving yet impossibly romantic, the Glencoe is perhaps the most impressive glen in
West Highlands offer dramatic mountain scenery Scotland, whose scenery is well known thanks to
along with a fascinating history that has littered it featuring as a location in Monty Python and the
the landscape with ancient castles and quaint Holy Grail, Braveheart, Skyfall and the Harry Potter
towns. It is a wild and remote region home to films. The drive through the glen is remarkably
the UK’s highest mountain, towering Ben Nevis beautiful with glorious mountains looming above
at 1,345 m. Hikers, climbers and adventurers the road on either side. The scenery here is
flock here to hike through gorgeous glens and ever-changing, thanks to Scotland’s
ancient pine forests to the top of desolate peaks. temperamental weather which can see rain, sun,
Gushing rivers feed a host of traditional whisky Inverlochy Castle, near Fort William fog, snow and cloud all within the space of a few
distilleries, winds lash the beaches and islands hours. This only serves to make Glencoe all the
along the rugged coastline and wildlife abounds. Inverlochy Castle, more spectacular, lending the landscape an
Along the coast look out for puffins, otters and near Fort William imposing, majestic air. Hiking opportunities in and
eagles, basking sharks and minke whales, while in Originally a private residence, Inverlochy Castle is around Glencoe are plentiful, from shorter strolls
the forests and mountains expect to see red now one of Scotland’s most luxurious hotels, set around Glencoe village itself to longer hikes
deer, pine martens and if you’re very lucky, rare within the wild mountain scenery of the West which lead into more remote areas such as
Scottish wildcats. Highlands. Opulently decorated throughout, with Buchaille Etive Mor and Glen Etive.
grand chandeliers, antique furniture and
traditional furnishings even within its 17 rooms
and suites, Inverlochy nevertheless pervades a
feeling of familiarity and comfort. Located just
ten minutes from Fort William, the castle’s
grounds are overlooked by the Nevis range, but
it’s the dining that really makes Inverlochy Castle
stand out. The restaurant is run by Michelin-
starred Albert Roux and Michel Roux Jr, and
serves a delectable six-course tasting menu. This
can be paired with the help of the hotel’s
sommelier – who is also extremely
knowledgeable about Scotland’s whiskies.
Highland cattle, the West Highlands Cottage in the Glencoe landscape

142
Talisker single malt whisky, Isle of Skye Harbour seal, Isle of Skye Talisker Distillery, Isle of Skye

Farmer dressed in plaid, Isle of Skye Old Man of Storr, Trotternish Peninsula

Eilean Iarmain, Isle of Skye


This charming Victorian pub-style property is set
right on the water’s edge. The hotel’s staff place
great emphasis on speaking Scots Gaelic,
welcoming guests in the language, and the public
bar encourages locals to come and chat in Scots
Gaelic. Local fishermen regularly come straight
from their day’s work to have a drink at the bar,
giving it a wonderfully friendly atmosphere. The
Portree, Isle of Skye 12 rooms and suites are styled fairly traditionally,
with plain walls and carpets, dark wood furniture
Isle of Skye and flowery bedspreads and cushions. None of Dunvegan Castle
the rooms have a TV, and music isn’t played in
Wild, rugged and romantic, the Isle of Skye is
Scotland’s largest and arguably, most beautiful,
the bar. The dining here is wonderful, offering Dunvegan Castle
seasonal, locally sourced ingredients for either an
island. Tumbling waterfalls and desolate If you’ve ever had fanciful notions about escaping
à la carte menu or, once a week, a five-course
moorlands are framed by towering mountains, to a Scottish castle, Dunvegan might just make
tasting menu.
pebbled beaches give way to sandy bays, and your dreams come true. Set on the edge of a
medieval castles, quaint fishing villages and lake and surrounded by dense woodland, it is the
traditional pubs abound. The arresting scenery oldest continually inhabited castle in Scotland,
with its jagged peaks, steep valleys, sheer cliffs home to the chiefs of the McLeod clan for 800
and majestic lochs was formed by ancient years. The castle was originally built in the 13th
volcanoes and makes for superb hill walking. century but has been extensively restored and
It has featured as a cinematic backdrop in the extended since, most recently in the Romantic
BFG and Stardust and provides ample intrigue for style in the mid-19 th century. It is surrounded by
palaeontologists, its beaches home to Jurassic vast and meticulously kept gardens containing a
treasures. Eagles soar overhead, red deer roam huge variety of plants, trickling streams, gushing
the highlands, seals rest on the shore and waterfalls and tranquil ponds awash with water
dolphins and whales ply the waters. On top lilies. Inside, the grand interiors are a potted
of all this you’ll be spoiled with unrivalled history of architectural styles, opulent yet
seafood, local whisky and the genuine charm somehow intimate, each room crammed with
of the people. family heirlooms.
Eilean Iarmain, Isle of Skye

www.audleytravel.com/scotland • 01993 683 589 • Scotland 143


Eilean Donan Castle

Eilean Donan Castle Loch Ness


One of Scotland’s most iconic castles, Eilean Long, narrow and extremely deep, Loch Ness is
Donan sits on a small, craggy island where three most famous as the home of Nessie, the Loch
sea lochs meet. Today, it is joined to the mainland Ness Monster. This legendary lake with its
by a stone bridge but was first inhabited in the picturesque setting may well be an ideal habitat
6th century by an Irish saint and then fortified in for a prehistoric creature but for most visitors it’s
the 13th century to protect the lands of Kintail the contrast between inky water, brooding hills
from the Vikings. The castle has been razed and and lush valleys that is most memorable. You can
rebuilt on numerous occasions, most recently take a cruise, go canoeing or simply meander
destroyed during the time of the Jacobite risings about on foot or by bike to get a sense of the
in 1719 then abandoned for almost 200 years unspoiled wilderness and its unique history and
before it was again restored. Today, you can tour heritage. Urquhart Castle is the lake’s most
the interior with its lavish banquet hall and recognisable sight, a medieval stronghold that
Lobster creels, Plockton
enormous oil paintings but perhaps more than was once the largest castle in Scotland. It lies in
anything, it is its spectacular location, exploited in ruins on a rocky promontory on the lake shore,
the movie Highlander, that is most moving, its
Plockton destroyed by its owners to prevent it from being
sturdy silhouette best appreciated in the light of An idyllic little fishing village set around the seized by the Jacobites in 1692.
the setting sun. sweeping curve of a sheltered bay, Plockton’s
row of traditional cottages looks out serenely
over the waters of Loch Carron. The village
dates from the 19 th century when it was built to
promote fishing and crofting and help stave the
wave of emigration from the Highlands. Today,
little sailing boats bob in the bay and visitors
come to soak up the panoramic views and
browse the many art shops, which showcase
work from painters who have been captivated by
the quality of the light and landscape here. It’s a
great place to try some local seafood, watch for
seals or dolphins or walk through native woods
and open moorland along the coast.
Piper outside Eilean Donan Castle Urquhart Castle, Loch Ness

144
Canoes by Loch Ness

Cooper making whisky barrels, Speyside Clava Cairns, near Inverness

Speyside Culloden House,


near Inverness
Water is the lifeblood of Speyside, a pocket of
The country manor impresses even as you
northeast Scotland best known for its historic
approach on the grand, sweeping driveway.
whisky distilleries and legendary salmon fishing.
Notably, Culloden House was requisitioned by
The fast-flowing River Spey attracts anglers from
Bonnie Prince Charlie as the battle headquarters
around the world with its prolific salmon and sea
before the disastrous final Jacobite rising in 1745.
trout and incredibly picturesque scenery.
Today’s house has been tastefully decorated to
Speyside is also home to the highest
reflect its historic origins. Public rooms are
concentration of whisky distilleries in Scotland
spacious, with high ceilings, large open fireplaces
with 60 or so distilleries producing some of the
and ornate stuccoed ceilings. The restaurant
country’s most famous single malts including
Footbridge over the River Ness, Inverness serves an exquisite fine-dining menu and the
Glenlivet and Glenfiddich. Speyside runs roughly
Library Bar has an extensive array of whiskies.
between Aberdeen and Inverness and its hills
Inverness Each of the 28 rooms is different, but all have the
and forests give way to picturesque fishing
same lavish decor, which is in keeping with the
villages, scenic beaches and a diverse array of Straddling the River Ness in Scotland’s northeast,
house’s history.
marine life off the coast. If you’d like to explore Inverness is the largest city in the Highlands, set
on foot, the Speyside Way, a long-distance attractively along the banks of the river which
footpath, traces the River Spey though some of gives it its name. The city has a long and bloody
the region’s most beautiful countryside. history and was the setting for the infamous
Battle of Culloden, which brought an end to the
Jacobite risings. Inverness is surrounded by
mountains and lakes and makes an ideal base for
delving into the Highlands and visiting Loch Ness
and the craggy peaks, deep ravines and scenic
glens of the Cairngorms. Other attractions
nearby include the enigmatic Bronze Age Clava
Cairns, a group of standing stones and passage
graves, Cawdor Castle, home of the Thanes of
Cawdor since the 14th century, and Fort George,
an impressive 18th-century fortification set on a
headland overlooking the sea.
Fly fisherman, River Spey Culloden House, near Inverness

www.audleytravel.com/scotland • 01993 683 589 • Scotland 145


Ryvoan Bothy, Cairngorms National Park

The Cairngorms
High mountains and beautiful glens typify the
Cairngorms, a lonely, mountainous plateau
southeast of Inverness. Much of this wild and
desolate area is protected by the Cairngorms
National Park and hikers, climbers and mountain
bikers flock here to make the most of the
incredible scenery. Ancient woodland, castles,
legendary salmon rivers and whisky distilleries
skirt the park, while the interior is untouched
and home to a huge diversity of flora and fauna
and many endangered species. Loch an Eilein on
the family-run Rothiemurchus Estate is one of its
most popular spots, an enchanting lake with an
island and medieval castle rising romantically
from its heart. Most of the park is only accessible
on foot making it a superb place to get away
from it all.

Mountain hare, Cairngorms National Park

Exploring Rothiemurchus The estate’s rich history combined with the


stunning scenery and excellent wildlife viewing
A vast private estate, owned by the Grant family make it a popular place to explore with a
since the 16th century, Rothiemurchus is home to network of walking trails as well as ranger-guided
one of Scotland’s largest remnants of Caledonian walks and 4x4 tours. Getting out into the wilds
forest, ancient Scots pine woodland that once with a local expert improves your chances of
covered most of the country. It supports a huge spotting rare creatures and offers an insight into
range of wildlife and the sheer number of why the estate is so special in terms of its history,
protected species found here makes it an wildlife and land use.
internationally important conservation site.

146
Wildlife Other species are not faring so well, with
the capercaillie being one of Britain’s most
The raw and unforgiving beauty of the threatened species. Despite low numbers it
Cairngorms comes from its magnificent is possible to see these turkey-sized birds at
peaks formed from a large elevated plateau Loch Garten. In spring the males perform an
of rounded glacial mountains. The lack of elaborate courtship ritual fanning their tails,
road access means it is little visited and holding their wings out and strutting about
sparsely populated making it a tranquil haven making loud popping, wheezing and gurgling
for wildlife and a region renowned for its noises. Wildcats too are on the brink of
biodiversity. The wild mountain tops, heath Capercaillie displaying, Cairngorms National Park extinction and are the subject of one of
moorlands and peat bogs of the interior are Scotland’s most ambitious conservation
some of the most remote places in the UK projects.
and home to numerous endangered species
To improve your chance of sighting any of
such as the Scottish wildcat, golden eagle
these elusive creatures it is worth walking
and red squirrel. Ospreys, pine martens,
with a local guide who will know the daily
grouse and capercaillies can also be seen
habits of the wildlife. National park guides
here along with a wide variety of sub-arctic
and rangers on the Rothiemurchus Estate
vegetation.
can offer an insight into the species and their
The Cairngorms National Park is home to habitats as well as bringing you to hides
25% of Britain’s threatened species who Red squirrel, Cairngorms National Park where you can get up close to inquisitive
thrive in the ancient landscape of pine forest, wildlife. Some of the wildlife is monitored
lochs, mountains and glens, giving this unique and tracked for conservation reasons, with
habitat international significance. Some of information on current wildlife locations
the conservation success stories here involve leading to near guaranteed sightings of some
work done to protect red squirrels and pine species. If you’re interested in capturing the
martens with both species now enjoying a animals on camera, you can take a tour with
comeback. The park is also home to 14 a renowned wildlife photographer who will
species of raptor including ospreys, white- help you get formidable shots of the park’s
tailed eagles, hen harriers, golden eagles and finest inhabitants.
peregrines.
Duck chasing an osprey, Rothiemurchus Estate

Pitlochry St Andrews
A gateway to the craggy Highlands, picturesque A small town with a big reputation, St Andrews
Pitlochry is set amid rolling hills, framed by lovely is the spiritual home of golf and location of
mountain scenery. Pitlochry first began its Scotland’s oldest and most prestigious university.
development after Queen Victoria visited the With an idyllic coastal setting, picturesque
area in the mid-1800s and its popularity streets and a host of medieval ruins, it has a
expanded with the arrival of the railway in 1863. unique character that mixes old-world charm
Its characterful, Victorian-style main street with student vitality. It’s an intimate, well-heeled
adorned with turreted sandstone towers bustles kind of place where cobbled streets lead to the
with various shops, cafes and restaurants, and ruins of a magnificent 12th-century cathedral and
there are two distilleries within walking distance. a sturdy 13th-century castle. In 1413 the university
Nearby, there are several scenic walking trails was founded and has since educated six Nobel
through the surrounding Tay Forest Park or along laureates, various heads of states and most
the River Tummel which flows past the town. Victorian buildings, Pitlochry recently, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.
For many, however, golf is the biggest lure. Played
Craigatin House & Courtyard here since the 15th century, St Andrews is now
B&B, Pitlochry home to some of the world’s most hallowed
This beautiful B&B is housed within a large, golf courses.
attractive stone-walled house to the north of
central Pitlochry, just a five minute walk to the
shops and eateries of the town. The house has
been furnished to a high standard throughout,
from the light, open conservatory dining room
which opens onto the verdant garden, to the
14 rooms. These are all different sizes and are
divided between the main house and the
courtyard building. All are spacious, with light
hues, wooden furniture and a splash of vibrancy.
Photos of local Highland games adorn the walls,
and the rooms on the highest floor have sloping
ceilings, lending them an intimate feel.
Craigatin House & Courtyard B&B, Pitlochry West Sands, St Andrews

www.audleytravel.com/scotland • 01993 683 589 • Scotland 147


Inverness
Cairngorms
National Park

Edinburgh

Edinburgh & the


Cairngorms Self-drive
This short trip showcases some of Scotland’s
Loch Morlich, the Cairngorms highlights, with time in both Edinburgh and the
Highlands. Explore the capital city and then head
Hiring a car in the Scotland gives you the north to the Cairngorms National Park. Here, you
Tailoring your trip can explore forests, mountains and lakes on foot,
freedom to travel at your own pace and stop as
The itineraries shown are designed to give you on horseback and by Land Rover with a country
often as you like en route. You’ll have more
an idea of what is possible, and are routes that ranger. This is an excellent itinerary if you’re
flexibility and independence, while still following
looking for a short break but still want to
work particularly well. We can use these as a your personal, tailor-made itinerary along our experience Scotland’s exceptional natural beauty
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely suggested routes to your pre-booked and variety.
different itinerary to suit your tastes and accommodation. Roads are well marked and
interests. Please call one of our Scotland you’ll find no shortage of view points, villages to Day 1 Arrive in Edinburgh and settle into
specialists to start planning your itinerary. explore and quirky charm from the locals. your New Town hotel before taking
a whisky and folklore walking tour.
T 01993 683 589
When to go Day 2 Learn more about the Old and New
Towns on a private walking tour. In
Getting around the afternoon, we suggest a walk up
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Arthur’s Seat.
Although Scotland is a small country, its 3 3 3 33 33 33 3 3 33 33 3 3
mountainous terrain makes getting from place to Day 3 Indulge in a gastronomic tour of
33 The best time to travel.
place much longer than expected. However, Broughton Street with a food writer
3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
before enjoying the afternoon on
journeys tend to be astonishingly beautiful and Scotland is best visited during the spring (late your own. We’ll help you with
have an abundance of places to stop for a short March to June) and autumn (September to early recommendations for how to
walk, admire the scenery, spot wildlife or refuel November) months. By spring, the temperatures spend your time.
your energy levels with a snack or meal. You can are warmer, although there will still be snow in Day 4 Collect your rental car and drive
explore Scotland in the company of a the mountains. The summer months of July and north to the Cairngorms National
knowledgeable private driver-guide, or if you August are the warmest of the year and get Park. En route, stop at Dalwhinnie
prefer more independence, self-driving is a good Distillery for a tasting of whisky
extensive daylight hours the further north you
option. Travelling across to the Isle of Skye is paired with artisanal chocolates.
go. From late October, the crowds begin to
possible by road or by ferry. disperse and early to mid-November can be a Day 5 With a ranger, take a private Land
Rover tour of Rothiemurchus Estate
wonderful time to see Scotland’s glorious
Self-drive Scotland autumn foliage. From mid-October many sites
in the morning, then join a
horseback tour in the afternoon.
Much of the draw of visiting Scotland is its wild close for winter, and snowy conditions in
Day 6 Drive north to Inverness to return
and spectacular landscape. The best way to December to February can make travel tricky,
your car and catch your flight
explore this fully is by road, journeying through although you’d be rewarded by spectacular home.
dramatic mountain passes, skirting along loch wintery scenes and, in those hotels that remain
shores and heading around the rugged coastline. open, roaring log fires. Stay longer
Roads are often uneven in camber and narrow, Time difference: GMT You can take more time to enjoy the Highland
landscapes with a detour to Loch Ness on your
at times becoming single track lanes with passing
way to Glencoe or spend time cycling, kayaking
places. While driving through the Highlands you Prices or taking a seaplane tour of Loch Lomond and
are very much at the mercy of the traffic around the Trossachs.
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
you – if you get stuck behind a lorry or tractor
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
there are limited places to overtake so you’ll be
for your trip to Scotland on our website,
journeying at a fairly slow pace. This just allows
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
more time to appreciate the fantastic scenery,
your plans.
however, and to spot local wildlife or places to
stop and explore.

148
Suggested itineraries
Skye
Plockton

Isle of Mull Oban


Loch Ness
Rothiemurchus
Estate Glencoe
Luss

Jura Methven
Tarbert Castle
Islay Oban Loch Perth
Lomond Loch Lomond

Edinburgh
Islay Glasgow

West Coast Whisky & Family Scottish Adventure West Highlands & Isle of
Wildlife Self-drive This itinerary focuses on exploring Scotland with Skye Self-drive
Intended for anyone who wants to enjoy the a family, including several interactive and engaging This trip idea provides an in-depth exploration of
wildlife and whisky of Scotland’s west coast, this activities to immerse children and adults alike in the West Highlands and the Isle of Skye, with
self-drive itinerary includes both distillery tours the Scottish culture and landscape. You’ll travel plenty of outdoor activities throughout. You’ll get
and a chance to enjoy kayaking, walking or cycling from Edinburgh into the Highlands, and across to a chance to try your hand at gin distilling on the
outdoors. You’ll visit the smaller, more distant the west coast via Loch Ness, to explore one of Isle of Skye, hike through the mountains and
islands as well as Loch Lomond. You’ve the Scotland’s beautiful islands. valleys of Loch Lomond, and kayak both on Loch
flexibility of driving your own car or one we’ve Lomond and off the shores of Plockton village.
arranged for you. Days 1-2 Arrive in Edinburgh where you’ll be You’ve the flexibility of driving your own car or
met and taken to your city hotel.
one we’ve arranged for you.
Take a shared Ghosts and Ghouls
Day 1 Make your own way to Oban. We
tour to learn about Edinburgh’s
suggest passing by the ruins of Day 1 Make your way to Loch Lomond for
gruesome past. Explore Edinburgh
Kilchurn Castle on Loch Awe to a privately guided kayaking trip.
Castle before meeting a local guide
stretch your legs.
for a food tour, tailored to your Day 2 Drive to Glencoe and meet your
Day 2 Begin your exploration of the island tastes. guide, who’ll lead you on a hike to
of Kerrera by taking a long, leisurely the Lost Valley for a picnic lunch.
Days 3-4 Pick up your car and drive to Perth,
hike with a guide.
to visit the Black Watch Castle Day 3 Hike over the highest pass of the
Day 3 Spot eagles, seals and otters on a Museum. Continue to the West Highland Way for views of
guided visit to the Isle of Mull. Rothiemurchus Estate in the heart of Ben Nevis.
the Cairngorms for a guided quad
Day 4 Cycle around the island of Lismore Day 4 Choose the route you want to hike
bike trek and the opportunity to
and the mainland north of Oban on today based on your energy and
explore the woodland trails by
quiet, level roads and paths. Then the weather.
bicycle.
drive south through Kilmartin Glen
Day 5 Leave Glencoe on the ‘Road to the
to Tarbert. Days 5-6 Head to Loch Ness for a shared
Isles’ to board the ferry across to
cruise of the loch and a visit to
Day 5 Take the ferry to Islay and join a Skye. Once you’ve settled into
Urquhart Castle. In Oban board a
wildlife cruise around the island to your waterfront hotel, explore on
shared wildlife cruise to look for
see seals and porpoises. Then drop your own.
whales, dolphins, seals and otters.
into Bowmore Distillery for a tour
Day 6 Explore Skye’s northern peninsula
and tasting. Days 7-8 Board the ferry and travel to Islay.
and get a private tour of Dunvegan
Head out on a boat trip with a local
Day 6 Ride the five-minute ferry to Jura Castle from the estate manager.
guide. In the afternoon, visit the
and take an island tour to see some
American monument on the Oa Day 7 Follow a hiking guide through Skye’s
of the 5,000 resident deer. End your
Peninsula. landscapes and then meet the Eilean
visit with a tour and tasting at the
Donan master distiller and take a
Jura Distillery. Days 9-10 Take the ferry back to the mainland,
foraging walk before labelling your
then drive to Loch Lomond for a
Day 7 Returning to the mainland, drive own gin.
speedboat tour of the loch’s islands.
along Loch Fyne to Loch Lomond,
Cycle along the shore from Luss. Day 8 Drive to the village of Plockton,
where you’ll meet your guide for a
where you’ll go sea kayaking with a
kayak trip onto the loch. Spend the Day 11 Drive to Glasgow airport and return
local guide. In the afternoon, drive
night in the photogenic village of your car prior to your onward flight.
through the central Highlands to
Luss.
Methven Castle to spend the night.
Day 8 Drop off your car at the airport or
Day 9 Leave Methven and make your
drive home.
way home.
Stay longer
Stay longer
Begin your trip in Glencoe, where red deer and
Head east to the Cairngorms National Park for
hiking trails are plentiful, or spend a few more
some wildlife watching and whisky tasting or end
days on Islay to explore more of the island’s
the trip with a few days in Edinburgh.
renowned distilleries.

Cycling around the Rothiemurchus Estate

www.audleytravel.com/scotland • 01993 683 589 • Scotland 149


Ireland
T his small but incredibly diverse isle is almost magical in its beauty. Both the Republic of
Ireland and Northern Ireland boast vibrant green landscapes, rugged mountains, striking rock
formations and a dramatic coastline. Combined with a staggeringly rich heritage that encompasses
thousands of years of history, legend and folklore, it’s a country that easily lives up to the romantic
ideal. Neolithic monuments, crumbling ruins and ancient castles abound, traditional pubs and gloriously
infectious music beckon, festivals ring out all across the country, and to top it all, there’s that
legendary Irish welcome.

Whether you’d like to climb the battlements of ancient castles, kayak to romantic ruins, sail beneath I

I
I

towering cliffs or go salmon fishing in the wilds of Connemara, Ireland delivers every time. You can

I I
I

I
explore the culture of offshore islands and Gaeltacht (Irish speaking) communities, take a literary pub

I
I
I
I
crawl through Dublin’s historic streets, discover Galway’s bohemian charm, Cork’s maritime history

I I I
I I
I

I
I I
or prehistoric sites such as Newgrange. Ireland is also conveniently compact meaning you can see
I

I
I

I
I

I
a lot in a short space of time. Wherever you go, you’ll be welcomed with genuine warmth,

I
I

I
I

I I

I
regaled with stories and will leave with a smile.

I
I
I I

I
I I

I
I

I
I

I
I

I
I I I I I I I I I
I I I I
I I I I I

Audley in Ireland

I
I
I

I
I I

I
I

I
I
N
EA

I I
Small and compact yet wonderfully diverse, C

I
O SCOTLAND

I I
IC
NT

I
Ireland is best explored by car. We can Clonmany Giant’s

I
I

L A Rathmullan 1 Causeway

I I
arrange for fantastically characterful and
AT
I

I
Glenveagh I I I I I I

knowledgeable private drivers to accompany National Park


I

I
I
Derry/Londonderry

I
I

I
you throughout, or provide detailed Donegal Town

I
I
8

I
Belfast
I

I
NORTHERN
instructions if you prefer to drive yourself.

I
I
I I
IRELAND

I
I
I
Sligo I I

I
We have found a selection of immersive I
I

I
I
Enniskillen

I I I
I
experiences to help you get under the skin
I I

I I
I
I

REPUBLIC

I I I
of the country whether your time is spent in

I I
I

I
Connemara Irish
OF Newgrange

I I
I

the cities or exploring Ireland’s verdant

I
I
National Park I
Sea
I

I I
2

I
I
I
7 IRELAND
I
I

I I
landscapes. You can kayak to monastery I

I
I
I

I
3

I I I
I I I
ruins in Killarney, explore behind the scenes

I I
Galway I
I

I I I I
I I I I I I I I I I DUBLIN
I

I I I
I

I
I
of St Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin or learn
I
Inis Mor
I I
6
I

I
I I
The Burren

I
I
I

I I
how to make traditional bread in Northern
I

0 50 miles Ennis
I
I
I

I
I

I
Ireland. We can help you to navigate away Limerick
I
0 80 kilometres

I
I
Kilkenny

I
I

I
from the inevitable crowds in the most I
I
I

Adare I
I
I I
I
I

I
popular areas, and discover unspoilt beauty Dingle
I
I

Killarney Waterford WALES


in Ireland’s most traditional regions.
I

Killarney
I I

5 National Park
I 4
I

Kenmare Cork I

Accommodation
I

Kinsale Cobh

Ireland offers a wide range of Celtic I


I

accommodation options from family-run Sea I


I

B&Bs offering a warm Irish welcome to


stately castles set in magnificent grounds.
Our specialists have carefully chosen a
selection of properties across the country to 1 Giant’s Causeway 3 Literary Dublin 6 The Burren
suit a range of tastes and budgets and will Marvel at the geological Immerse yourself in Dublin’s Explore this barren landscape
offer personal recommendations based on wonder of Giant’s Causeway, a outstanding literary legacy as which has a surprisingly diverse
your interests. Ireland’s capital, Dublin, has series of basalt columns with you explore the city, from array of flora and fauna.
the greatest choice of options from links to the mythological Oscar Wilde to James Joyce. See page 160
classically elegant hotels that have played a warrior Finn MacCool. See page 153
7 Connemara’s landscape
significant part in every stage of Irish history, See page 165
4 Cobh’s emigration Get active in the sweeping
to Georgian townhouses with a modern 2 Newgrange history mountains and wild beauty of
twist. Outside the cities, options can be Visit this ancient burial tomb Learn about the Titanic and Connemara National Park.
more limited but there are still a host of that predates both Stonehenge Ireland’s emigration history See page 162
memorable places to stay including large in England and the Egyptian while searching records for
8 Hiking on the Slieve
country manors, palatial regal retreats, pyramids and marvel at its your own ancestors.
League cliffs
welcoming guesthouses and historic fishing unique Celtic designs. See page 157
Nearly three times the height
lodges set in brooding valleys. The See page 154
5 The Ring of Kerry of the Cliffs of Moher, these
properties featured in this brochure
Drive around this beautiful towering cliffs offer sweeping
represent a small selection of those available,
coastline admiring the scenic panoramas of distant counties.
please speak to your specialist for further
views and picturesque villages. See page 164
information.
See page 155

www.audleytravel.com/ireland • 01993 683 589 • Ireland 151


Nightlife in the Temple Bar quarter, Dublin

Dublin
Compact, cosmopolitan and convivial, Dublin is a
small capital with great heart. Its rich heritage is
visible all over the city from Viking remains to
Georgian grandeur, historic churches and
illustrious museums. At its heart lies Gothic St
Patrick’s Cathedral, set on the site of a holy well
said to have been used by Ireland’s patron saint,
and Trinity College, Ireland’s oldest university,
home to the magnificent Long Library and the
Book of Kells. Set between the Irish Sea and the
Wicklow Mountains, Dublin offers easy access to
the great outdoors but is possibly best known for
its traditional pubs, diverse literary connections
and witty banter. It’s a place to wander museums
and galleries, brush up on political history and
enjoy a pint of the black stuff at its spiritual
home, the Guinness Storehouse. North Earl and Sackville streets after the Easter Rising

The Easter Rising


In April 1916 a daring bid was made to be seen by the entrance. A bitter siege
establish Ireland as an independent republic ensued and the rebels eventually
while Britain was busy fighting World War I. surrendered. Their leaders, among them
The rebellion began on Easter Monday with James Connolly, Patrick Pearse and Thomas
the seizure of key buildings across Dublin, Clarke, were tried secretly and brutally
but the rebels were outnumbered by British executed in Kilmainham Gaol. This fanned
troops and eventually holed up in the the flames of rebellion across the country
General Post Office (GPO) on O’Connell and helped win sympathy for the fight for
Street where the marks of gun shots can still Irish independence.

Exhibit at the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin

152
Samuel Beckett Bridge, Dublin

Trinity College’s Long Library, Dublin

Interior of St Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Trinity College, Dublin

The Merrion, Dublin Brooks Hotel, Dublin


Heritage and contemporary elegance combine This charming, centrally located hotel with its
at The Merrion, an independently-owned hotel attractive red brick façade has a friendly
spread across four 18 th-century townhouses in atmosphere and excellent service, and offers
central Dublin. Inside, the atmosphere is calm convenient access to many of the city sights. It is
with a high staff to guest ratio, impeccable located on a quiet side street lined with small
service and little of the usual bustle associated shops and restaurants, and the hotel restaurant
with a centrally located hotel. There are 142 chic reflects this independent spirit in its commitment
and stylish rooms with high ceilings and large to sourcing and promoting the finest local
windows as well as a range of dining options, Irish produce. The hotel also has a private
including a garden-themed restaurant and a bar Statue of Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square, Dublin cinema room. The 98 rooms have contemporary
set in the original wine vaults. Next door is the but classically elegant decor with handcrafted
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Ireland’s only Literary connections walnut furniture from Galway. The property’s
restaurant awarded two Michelin stars. The hotel location offers a glimpse of a unique area of
Despite its modest size, Dublin has produced a
also has a spa, gym and infinity pool and is close Dublin that could easily remain undiscovered
remarkable number of literary giants including
to many of the city’s main galleries, museums and during a short visit to the city.
Nobel laureates George Bernard Shaw, William
key sights.
Butler Yeats and Samuel Beckett. James Joyce
and Oscar Wilde were born here, Leopold
Bloom famously walked its shady streets and
many others drank themselves into oblivion in
the city’s pubs. Now a UNESCO City of
Literature, Dublin offers museums dedicated to
Joyce, literary pub crawls and a vibrant
Bloomsday festival each year. See the statue of
Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square where Wilde
and Yeats once lived, tour Trinity College where
Samuel Beckett and Bram Stoker studied, attend
a performance at the theatre founded by the
Irish literary revivalists or pop into Sweny’s, ‘the
worst pharmacy in Dublin’ for literary readings
and a bar of Bloom’s lemon soap.
Junior suite, The Merrion, Dublin Brooks Hotel, Dublin

www.audleytravel.com/ireland • 01993 683 589 • Ireland 153


Newgrange Neolithic tomb, the Boyne Valley

Newgrange & the Monasterboice


Boyne Valley This early Christian monastery was founded in
The setting for some of Ireland’s most significant the 5th or 6th century by a follower of Saint
historical monuments, the Boyne Valley sits just Patrick. Surrounded by farmland, the ruins of
north of Dublin. Irish folklore and tradition are Monasterboice include one of the country’s
inextricably linked with the area. Most notably, finest round towers and two intricately carved
Newgrange is a massive Neolithic passage tomb high crosses. The tower, which is 28 metres tall
with an enigmatic purpose which predates the without its cap, was attacked in 1097, when many
Egyptian pyramids and England’s Stonehenge. of the monastery’s precious manuscripts were
The massive tumulus consists of a huge mound destroyed. The West Cross near the round
ringed by a circle of stones. The main entrance is tower is one of the tallest high crosses in Ireland
guarded by an intricately carved boulder, while at 6.5 metres and is carved with biblical scenes.
inside a narrow passage leads to a central vaulted Muiredach’s Cross near the entrance is better
chamber that still remains waterproof. preserved and would once have been brightly
Archaeologists suggest Newgrange may have painted.
Hill of Tara, the Boyne Valley
been a royal burial place or a ritual site. Another
theory explains it as an astronomical calendar, Hill of Tara
because the main entrance aligns with the rising
sun on the winter solstice, allowing light to Ireland’s most sacred site, the Hill of Tara holds a
illuminate the inner chamber. special place in history as well as in traditional
folklore and mythology. The hill has been a
sacred site since Neolithic times and although
little now remains, the associated myths and
legends are fascinating. It was the home of the
druids, the ceremonial base of Ireland’s high kings
and a supposed entrance to the underworld.
Today, it makes a scenic and mystical place to
walk. Numerous prehistoric burial mounds and
ring forts cover the hill and you can see the Lia
Fáil, the coronation stone, which was in use up
until the 6th century.
Entrance of Newgrange Neolithic tomb The West Cross and round tower, Monasterboice

154
Kilkenny Castle Craft studio window, Kilkenny Saint Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny

Hurling monument, Kilkenny Kilkenny Castle by the River Nore

Mount Juliet, Kilkenny


The grand, ivy-covered Mount Juliet was a family
home until 1989 and today is one of Ireland’s
most impressive country manor hotels. The River
Nore weaves through the hotel’s estate and
walking and riding trails meander through
woodlands and ornamental gardens. Entering the
hotel is like stepping back in time. The building is
ornately decorated with original paintings dating
to the 1830s, a sweeping staircase and elaborate
stuccowork. The traditional Georgian decor
carries through to the Michelin-starred Lady
Newspaper shop, Kilkenny Helen restaurant, handsome Tetrarch Lounge
and the 32 individually decorated rooms. In Hurley stick with sliotar ball
Kilkenny addition to a pool, gym and spa, guests can
choose from a wide range of activities. Archery Experience hurling
Atmospheric Kilkenny is known for its medieval
lessons, a falconry experience, salmon fishing in
history, vibrant arts and culture scene, and Hurling is a highly significant element of Irish
the River Nore or fishing on one of the three
esteemed hurling victories. Originally founded in culture, and the Kilkenny Cats are widely
private lakes are all possible. Mount Juliet is also
the 6th century as a monastic settlement, the acknowledged as one of the best teams,
known for its Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course
establishment was later walled by the Normans dominating the leaderboard of three different
and state-of-the-art equestrian centre.
and even served as the capital of Ireland during leagues alongside the Tipperary Legends, the
the 1640s. Though still referred to as a city, Cork Rebels and the Galway Tribesmen. In this
Kilkenny is relatively compact and its population hands-on hurling experience you’ll learn a little
is equivalent to that of a large town. All of the bit about this history and rivalry before picking
major attractions are easily accessible along the your hurley (stick) and heading to the hurling
city’s Medieval Mile, which stretches north from field. Here you’ll spend about an hour and a
Kilkenny Castle to Saint Canice’s Cathedral. half learning how to pass, shoot and strike on
Along this route, the city’s cobbled streets are the field under the tutelage of an expert hurling
dotted with characterful eateries and shops coach. This is an entertaining, energetic
selling pottery, artwork, jewellery and other experience with as much competition as
handcrafted goods. you want.
Mount Juliet, Kilkenny

www.audleytravel.com/ireland • 01993 683 589 • Ireland 155


The Copper Coast, County Waterford

Waterford Coastal drives


Waterford, the oldest city in Ireland, is steeped The Copper Coast to the southwest of
in history. Originally established as a Viking port Waterford takes its name from the area’s rich
in the 9 th century, Waterford’s vital trade routes mining history during the 18 th and 19 th centuries.
once made it more important than Dublin. Once mined for lead, silver and copper, this
Evidence of the city’s ancient past is reflected in scenic coastal route dotted with scalloped
the compact, historic core, which is a labyrinth of beaches, coves, and rocky headlands runs
narrow, cobbled streets. More information about between the beach town of Tramore and
Waterford’s medieval roots can be found in the Dungarvan. This is a pleasant drive, with
city’s three museums, which are collectively numerous sites of interest to explore in the
known as the Waterford Museum of Treasures nearby vicinity. Dungarvan is a traditional,
and are all conveniently located in the Viking Waterford Castle coastal town whose castle dates back to the
Triangle. In addition to being a Viking stronghold, 12th century and houses a small exhibition. Inland,
Waterford is also renowned as the home of Waterford Castle Curraghmore House and its extensive gardens
Waterford Crystal, once the most prestigious Worlds away from the hustle and bustle of the and farmland is the largest private estate in
glassworks company in the world. city, Waterford Castle sits on a private island in Ireland. This stately home retains lived-in feeling
the River Barrow just east of Waterford. The as the descendants of the family that originally
tranquil retreat of Little Island is only accessible built the country home still live here today.
by ferry and is home to a 16th-century castle that
was rebuilt in Gothic style in 1895. Home to the
Fitzgerald family for hundreds of years, the castle
has been restored to its former glory and has
just 19 guest rooms that combine a rich, heritage
style with modern conveniences. These spacious
rooms are all individually decorated with
traditional fabrics, antique furniture, hand-
painted tiles and claw-footed bathtubs. Along
with lavish rooms, Waterford Castle offers fine
dining and numerous on-site activities, including
an 18-hole golf course, archery, falconry and clay
pigeon shooting.
Craftsman at Waterford Crystal Thatched cottage, County Waterford

156
Fishing boats at Dungarvan, the Copper Coast Pot still at the Jameson Distillery, Midleton

Street musician, Cork Cathedral and painted houses, Cobh

Cork Jameson Distillery, Midleton


Founded in the 7th century by Saint Finbarre, Home to some of Ireland’s most renowned
Cork is the Republic of Ireland’s second largest whiskeys including Jameson, Paddy and Powers,
city. Its setting, by one of the world’s largest this distillery was founded in the early 19 th
natural ports, brought it great wealth in the 18 th century and was in service for 150 years.
century when grand Georgian terraces sprung up Production now takes place nearby but you can
between the narrow medieval laneways. Central tour the characterful old buildings to discover the
Cork is a compact but cosmopolitan place, traditional processes used and see the world’s
cradled by two channels of the River Lee and largest pot still. You will hear about milling,
home to the English Market, an ornate Victorian mashing and fermentation, see the malting
covered market with an elaborate vaulted ceiling. houses and learn about distillation. You will also
The city’s most obvious monument is Saint Fin visit the cooperage to find out how the casks
Barre’s Cathedral, a grand neo-Gothic edifice Hayfield Manor, Cork determine the taste and tone of the whiskey.
with a lavish mix of spires, sculptures and
gargoyles. Also worth a visit is University College Hayfield Manor, Cork Cobh’s Titanic &
Cork, with its Arts and Crafts chapel and a Hayfield Manor offers a level of grandeur that emigration history
collection of rare ogham stones inscribed with transcends its age. Discreetly nestled within its
the earliest form of writing in Ireland. own private grounds, this family-owned and Inextricably linked with the sea, the little town of
managed red brick, vine-covered country manor Cobh (pronounced ‘cove’) sits at the mouth of a
is a hidden oasis only a short walk from the natural port, once the point of departure for
heart of Cork. The property’s warm ambience hundreds of thousands of Irish emigrants. It was
can be felt in the old-fashioned library furnished here on ‘Heartbreak Pier’ that many said their
with antiques, leather armchairs and a fireplace last farewell to family before departing for a
that’s often ablaze. Each of the 88 classically- better life in America and the Cobh Heritage
styled rooms is similarly lavish in its design. The Centre helps visitors trace their ancestors. The
elegant, candlelit Orchids Restaurant and the town was also the last port of call for the RMS
more relaxed Perrotts Garden Bistro both Titanic, a tale told in the Titanic Experience which
feature gourmet cuisine, prepared using fresh, is based in the original White Star Line ticket
local ingredients and paired with vintage, office. Recreated rooms of the liner tell the story
world-class wine from the estate’s extensive of its passengers, tragic sinking and the rescue
wine cellar. operation to save those on board.
English Market, Cork

www.audleytravel.com/ireland • 01993 683 589 • Ireland 157


Music shop, Kenmare

Kinsale Kenmare & the Beara


A highly attractive little town of narrow winding
Peninsula
streets lined with brightly-painted houses set Surrounded by glorious mountain views and
around a sheltered bay, Kinsale is an affluent spot wooded hills and overlooking the glittering
renowned for its picturesque setting and fine expanse of Kenmare Bay, Kenmare is a quaint
dining. Two formidable forts guard the shoreline little heritage town with vividly-painted shop
of what was once an important global trading fronts and a host of gourmet restaurants and
port, besieged during the Battle of Kinsale in cheery pubs set along its elegant streets.
1601, when a Spanish armada arrived to assist A Bronze Age stone circle and boulder dolmen
the Irish earls. Privateers sailed from Kinsale in sit just outside the town, while the Kenmare
the 17th and 18th century, among them Alexander Heritage Centre tells the story of the region’s
Selkirk who was subsequently stranded in the Perryville House, Kinsale history and its importance as a historic lace-
South Pacific and penned the tale of Robinson making site. Most of all though, Kenmare is ideally
Crusoe. In 1915 Kinsale was the scene of maritime Perryville House, Kinsale situated for access to the breathtaking scenery of
disaster when the Lusitania was torpedoed off The 200-year-old Perryville House, located the Beara Peninsula. Far less visited than the Ring
the coast, but today it is better known as ‘The overlooking the bay on the edge of Kinsale, feels of Kerry but equally dramatic, Beara’s
Gourmet Capital of Ireland’ for its profusion of much more like a home than a hotel. This astonishingly beautiful coastal landscape, ancient
excellent restaurants. characterful, family-run guesthouse has a ring forts, Neolithic stone circles, picturesque
welcoming, casual ambience. There are two fishing villages and sweeping, panoramic views
formal yet snug lounges adorned with large make for a spectacular drive.
portraits, patterned curtains, vibrant floor rugs
and wooden fireplaces. The 22 tastefully
decorated guest rooms are all individually
furnished with a blend of traditional elements
and modern amenities. The owners’ passion and
commitment to restoring Perryville House to its
former old-world glory is evident in everything
they do. They take pride in producing their own
honey and serving a delicious breakfast buffet of
homemade delicacies freshly made with locally
sourced ingredients.
Aerial view of Charles Fort, Kinsale Puffins on the Beara Peninsula

158
Dingle Peninsula
A near legendary place, beloved by
locals and visitors alike, Dingle town is
renowned for its live music, quaint
character and lively pubs. Its vibrant,
cosmopolitan atmosphere belies its
small size and makes it an ideal base
for touring the magnificent scenery that
ripples in all directions along the rugged
Dingle Peninsula. High mountain passes
sweep down to a fitfully indented
Ross Castle, Killarney National Park coastline marked by unforgiving cliffs,
deserted beaches and wave-lashed
headlands. It’s an elemental sort of
place that has been inhabited for
almost 6,500 years and over 2,000
archaeological sites litter its shores.
One of the most notable is the Gallarus
Oratory, a remarkable early Christian
church. Nearby, you’ll find everything
from Bronze Age standing stones to
12th-century beehive huts.

Rural scene on the Ring of Kerry Skellig Michael, off the Iveragh Peninsula

The Ring of Kerry


West of Killarney lies one of Ireland’s most
scenic, looped drives, the Ring of Kerry, which
winds its way around the magnificent Iveragh
Peninsula. It skirts the nation’s highest peaks, the
MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, and offers stunning
panoramas of deserted Atlantic beaches, rocky
headlands and craggy mountains. You’ll pass
thundering waterfalls, tangled forests and gushing
rivers en route as well as a host of traditional
towns, Iron Age forts, standing stones and old
Visitors in a jaunting car, Muckross House
monasteries. Offshore from the Iveragh View of MacGillycuddy’s Reeks
Peninsula lies one of Europe’s most isolated and
Killarney
storm-battered early Christian sites, Skellig Cahernane House Hotel,
Thanks to its dramatic lakeland landscape Michael, which is set on a precipitous island rising Killarney
Killarney has been hosting visitors for centuries. abruptly from the sea. Although mesmerising in A long, sweeping driveway leads to Cahernane
Gateway to the Killarney National Park and the its beauty, the Ring of Kerry can be thronged House Hotel, a striking Victorian country manor
Ring of Kerry, it’s a thriving spot packed with with visitors: for a quieter drive consider the swathed with creeping vines. A ten minute walk
shops and cafes, art and craft galleries, and a nearby Beara Peninsula. from the heart of Killarney, or just a five minute
host of traditional pubs featuring live music. The drive, the estate abuts Killarney National Park
national park with its wild expanse of ancient and offers views of a vast expanse of green set
woodland, inky lakes and rugged peaks is against a backdrop of the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks,
Ireland’s oldest and most popular, and surrounds Ireland’s highest mountains. Inside, the hotel
Muckross House, an elaborate Tudor-style oozes period charm with an impressively grand
mansion with magnificent gardens. The town and entrance, high ceilings, antique furniture and
park are best explored in a traditional jaunting traditional taxidermy. The 38 guest rooms are
car, typically a two-wheeled carriage pulled by a decorated in similar style with subtle florals and
single horse. Renowned for their penchant for beautiful woodwork. Formal dining is available in
storytelling and quick wit, it’s easy to understand the Herbert Restaurant or you can choose more
why Killarney has a reputation for having some of casual fare in the atmospheric wine cellar
Ireland’s most effusive guides. beneath the hotel.
Cahernane House Hotel, Killarney

www.audleytravel.com/ireland • 01993 683 589 • Ireland 159


Poulnabrone dolmen in the Burren, County Clare

Dromoland Castle, near Ennis


Majestic Dromoland Castle is an imposing
19 th-century baronial stronghold that exudes
charm and grandeur. The impressive building is
matched by sumptuous decor with lavish fabrics,
carved wooden fireplaces, glistening chandeliers,
wood-panelling and rich and regal tones found
throughout the property.

The 99 guest rooms are divided between the


Cliffs of Moher, County Clare
Queen Anne wing and the main building, and
although styles and views differ, all are extremely
The Burren & the Cliffs
spacious and well furnished. There are several
Thatched cottages, Adare dining options at Dromoland, from the award-
of Moher
winning fine dining menu at the intricately A primeval place shaped beneath ancient seas
Limerick, Adare & Ennis decorated Earl of Thomond restaurant to a and eventually forced upwards by geological
Gateway to County Clare and the Burren, the more casual meal at the Fig Tree Restaurant, or shifts, the Burren is one of the world’s finest
towns of Limerick, Adare and Ennis provide good even a freshly prepared picnic to be taken into examples of glacio-karst landscape. It is stark,
bases for exploring the surrounding countryside. the grounds which include woodland and an moody and riven by fissures but a surprisingly
Limerick is the largest of the three, a strategic 18-hole parkland golf course. diverse place renowned for its varied wildlife and
city on the banks of the River Shannon numerous archaeological sites. Ancient burial
dominated by a massive 13th-century castle and tombs, early Christian churches and medieval
home to some of the country’s most refined castles litter the area but it is best known for its
Georgian architecture. Adare by comparison is a phenomenal diversity of flora and fauna. Feral
quaint village that plays out along a single street goats, pine martens, foxes and stoats all make
lined with picturesque, 19 th-century thatched their homes here, and dolphins and porpoises
cottages now housing craft shops and cafes. It’s play off the coast, vying for attention with the
also home to a beautifully weathered Augustinian towering Cliffs of Moher. These visually striking
priory and a romantic riverside castle. Ennis is cliffs are home to an enormous number of
closest to the sights of the Burren and is a bird species, including Atlantic puffins and are
bustling market town most renowned for its live protected as part of the Burren and Cliffs of
traditional music. Moher Geopark.
Dromoland Castle, near Ennis

160
Winding medieval streets, Galway Galway Bay prawns, Galway

Busker on Quay Street, Galway Dún Aengus, Inis Mór

Galway Inis Mór


Often plagued by rain yet somehow bright and Flung out into the Atlantic, the three Aran Islands
cheerful even under the greyest of skies, Galway are bastions of traditional culture where Irish is
is a remarkably vibrant city renowned for its still the spoken language and a delicate filigree of
traditional music, beautiful setting and excellent stone walls weaves across the beautiful karst
restaurants. Winding medieval streets run landscape. Inis Mór (pronounced Inish More) is
though the compact heart of the city and are the largest of the three and most easily
lined with brightly-painted cottages now accessible, 40 minutes by ferry or a 10-minute
converted into pubs, restaurants and shops. flight from the mainland. Dún Aengus, a cliff-top
The whole city has a lively, free-spirited air with fort dating back 2,000 years, is the main historic
buskers on every corner and traditional music site but mostly it’s the traditional way of life and
seeping from behind the doors of every city pub. Glenlo Abbey, Galway unique setting that makes the islands so special.
The greatest pleasure lies in simply wandering Apart from the little village of Kilronan with its
the city streets and soaking up the atmosphere. Glenlo Abbey, Galway handful of lively pubs, Inis Mór is a sparsely
You’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to The magnificent Glenlo Abbey, located just populated place scattered with cottages whose
eating out though, with fresh local seafood taking outside central Galway, offers guests a luxurious inhabitants’ lives are inextricably entwined with
a starring role in the city’s many highly-regarded stay in peaceful surroundings. Originally built in the sea.
restaurants. the 18 th century, the estate has since been
impeccably restored with many historic
characteristics remaining. Service is superb, from
arriving in the grand stone entrance hall to eating
in one of the hotel’s many dining options. In
addition to the characterful below-stairs cellar
bar, the main restaurant is in the original dining
room, whose tall windows offer excellent views
towards Lough Corrib. In the grounds, two
carriages from an original Orient Express train
now serve as the fine dining Pullman Restaurant.
The 50 rooms are spacious and elegant, using
understated gold and cream tones and simple yet
luxurious furnishings.
View over the River Corrib, Galway Aran sweaters for sale, Inis Mór

www.audleytravel.com/ireland • 01993 683 589 • Ireland 161


Ponies on the beach, Connemara

Connemara Delphi Lodge, Connemara


Nestled in a remote valley, Delphi Lodge is a
Renowned for its moody landscape, Connemara
historic, vine-covered country manor at the head
offers brooding mountains, sweeping valleys and
of a lake. Surrounded by wild mountain scenery,
serene lakes. Labyrinthine stone walls creep up
it has an air of unbridled romance and you will be
the slopes of quartzite peaks, trees are bent
made to feel completely at home. Utterly
double by the wind and a ribbon of white sand
unpretentious, quietly indulgent and warmly
skirts the coast. The lakes, rivers and mountains
intimate, there are just 13 charming rooms, many
provide a rich playground for fishing, hiking and
of which have spectacular mountain views.
riding, hardy Connemara ponies dot the fields
Period details abound including log fires, deeply
and artists and craftspeople draw inspiration
snug armchairs, a library and a billiards room.
Kylemore Abbey
from their surroundings. It is Ireland’s largest
None of the rooms have locks and dining is Built by the wealthy eye surgeon and
Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) area and showcases
communal with a convivial host introducing businessman Mitchell Henry, Kylemore
some of the finest traditional music and most
guests and the exquisitely prepared food. Abbey is a 19 th-century neo-Gothic
sublime seafood.
mansion on the shores of Lough
Pollacappul. The 33-bedroom house
became his family home and an idyllic
country retreat until tragedy struck
when Mitchell’s wife Margaret was
taken ill and died. He built an elaborate
chapel to house her remains, although
she and Mitchell are both interred in a
more modest mausoleum in the
surrounding woodland. In 1920 a group
of Benedictine nuns moved here and
still care for the house and its beautiful
Victorian walled gardens. The ground
floor of the abbey is open to visitors
and the lake walk and woodlands offer a
wonderful place to stroll.

Delphi Lodge, Connemara

162
Statue of poet WB Yeats, Sligo

Enniskillen Castle

Ben Bulben mountain, near Sligo Swans, Lough Gill Boat trip through the Marble Arch Caves

Sligo Coopershill House Hotel, Sligo Enniskillen


This historic country house has stayed within the
A small town with a big heart, Sligo is known for Set between the meandering waters of the Erne,
O’Hara family for eight generations. With just
its lively music scene, scenery and association Enniskillen is a lively riverside town with a busy
eight rooms, it offers an intimate retreat where
with poet and Nobel Laureate WB Yeats. A marina and a host of restaurants, pubs and cafes.
you can relax and unwind in the quiet
compact, low-key kind of place, Sligo is set on the The town’s waterfront is dominated by
countryside outside of the city. The bedrooms
banks of the River Garavogue and boasts two Enniskillen Castle, a 15th-century castle built as a
vary in size and decor, but all reflect the relaxed
cathedrals – the Catholic Sligo Cathedral is the stronghold of the ruling Maguire chieftains. A
feeling of the home and feature antique furniture
grander of the two, while Yeats’ parents were tour of the castle and its two museums offers the
and bucolic views. Locally sourced cuisine is a
married in the Protestant Saint John’s Cathedral. chance to see, among other exhibits, a
priority for the owners, who grow most of the
Outside of town, you can hike along the many 1,000-year-old block of bog butter. Outside of
vegetables and fruits in their own garden.
trails that crisscross the landscape and explore town, the Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark
the nearby mountain of Ben Bulben, or simply was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site to
Kayaking on Lough Gill
stroll along the blustery beaches and headlands. protect its network of caverns, carved into the
You’ll find the hills and mountains dotted with A tranquil lake surrounded by forested hills, limestone by underground rivers. A boat trip
Neolithic passage tombs, stone circles and Lough Gill is dotted with 20 small wooded along the subterranean Cladagh River lets you
dolmens, as well as a massive stone cairn said to islands that inspired WB Yeats’ poem The Lake explore the caverns. Above ground, you can
mark the tomb of legendary Queen Maeve. Sligo Isle of Innisfree. You can explore the lake’s shores learn about blanket bog ecology by following a
also has a particularly strong traditional music and islands in a kayak, gliding silently through the boardwalk trail that crosses the fragile bog and
scene, and the local pubs offer live music water with a local guide. As you paddle along, extends up Cuilcagh Mountain.
practically every evening. your guide will fill you in on local history and
legend, pointing out areas of interest and Finn Lough Resort, Enniskillen
identifying any wildlife you may see. Otters, Located just a mile from the Donegal border,
kingfishers, herons and Atlantic salmon flourish Finn Lough Resort is a family-run estate set on
here, and the lake’s micro-climate means the area expansive grounds surrounded by Lough Erne.
is home to some of the world’s most northerly Accommodation options include lodges,
strawberry trees. You’ll also visit Church Island, cottages, traditional suites and bubble domes
home to the ruins of an early Christian church, that have a transparent exterior, ideal for
and Cottage Island, where you’ll see part of a stargazing. Breakfast and dinner both feature
former leper colony. If time allows, you could visit fresh, locally sourced ingredients. You can take
a 17th-century castle and two large Neolithic advantage of a wide range of activities here,
cairns. including water sports, fishing and cycling.
Coopershill House Hotel, Sligo

www.audleytravel.com/ireland • 01993 683 589 • Ireland 163


Fanad Peninsula, County Donegal

Hiking the Slieve Glenveagh National Park


League Cliffs One of Donegal’s most renowned valleys,
Soaring to almost three times the height of the Glenveagh boasts a lavishly decorated castle
Cliffs of Moher, the Slieve League Cliffs offer nestled within vast woodlands. In the 19 th
sweeping views over the Donegal mountains century, wealthy landowner John George Adair
without the crowds of their better-known built an imposing castle here, intended as a
counterpart. The cliffs are also laced with a series hunting manor where he could take advantage of
of walking trails – a guided hike along these lets the abundant wildlife. Today, the valley is
you find the best vantage points and allows you protected as a national park to preserve both
Coastline, County Donegal
to tackle routes you wouldn’t be able to do the castle and estate, which is home to red deer,
alone. Depending on the route your guide foxes, badgers, owls, peregrine falcons and pine
Donegal
suggests, you might spot distant dolphins in the martens. A guided tour of the castle gives you a
Ireland’s most northerly county, Donegal is a wild water far below, see the Malin Beg lighthouse or chance to see the flamboyantly decorated
and rugged place where the raw beauty of the visit an early monastic settlement with beehive rooms. You can also explore the formal walled
landscape lingers far longer in the memory than huts and a small chapel. If you have a good head gardens by following well-marked paths.
the towns. You’ll find long, sweeping beaches, for heights, consider trying One Man’s Pass, a Venturing farther afield, take advantage of the
heather-clad mountains, precipitous cliffs and a knife-edged ridge along the highest point in the estate’s many walking trails to ramble through
network of ancient monuments that you can cliffs, just wide enough for one person. It’s not the woodlands, stroll around the lake or climb
explore on quiet back roads, cliff paths and for everyone, but your efforts are rewarded with the heathered mountain slopes.
coastal trails. A highlight here is the valley of incomparable views.
Glenveagh, a national park where golden eagles Lough Eske Castle, Donegal
soar over glittering lakes and red deer roam oak Situated on expansive manicured grounds and
and birch forests. Donegal is also where you’ll sporting a crenelated turret, Lough Eske Castle
find the tallest cliffs in Ireland, the Slieve League was originally built in the 1400s, but rebuilt after
Cliffs, with their sheer rock faces towering above a fire in the early 1900s. Its 97 bedrooms offer
the wild Atlantic waves. Its remote location and top-of-the-line amenities and views over the
relative isolation have made it a bastion of Bluestack Mountains, the castle’s courtyard or
traditional culture – about a third of the region the gardens. There are three restaurants, all
primarily speaks Irish, making it a Gaeltacht. featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients,
Traditional music, dance and crafts remain a vital and a tranquil spa which offers an extensive
part of everyday life. range of treatments.
Lough Eske Castle, Donegal

164
City Hall, Belfast

Titanic Belfast Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge

Belfast
Transformed from its days as one of Europe’s
most troubled cities, peace and prosperity have
brought vitality to Northern Ireland with Belfast
leading the parade with glittering new
attractions, fine restaurants and a flourishing arts
scene. The city’s elegant Victorian buildings have
been restored, designer shops line the streets
and music spills out through pub doors. Belfast
has a long history of shipbuilding and the ill-fated Giant’s Causeway
Titanic was built here. You can learn more with a
visit to Titanic Belfast, where full-scale North of Belfast a land of geological
The Merchant Hotel, Belfast
reconstructions and innovative interactive wonders and ancient castles unfolds. Its
displays allow you to explore the shipyard and The Merchant Hotel, Belfast most renowned attraction is the
liner. Although Belfast has moved beyond its Set in an ornate Victorian building with an legendary Giant’s Causeway, an area of
troubled past, a black cab tour of its most Italianate façade, The Merchant Hotel exudes about 40,000 interlocking basalt
notorious hotspots gives a good insight into the character. Stone columns, elaborate statues, columns which rise out of the sea and
city’s history and leads you to some of its most detailed plasterwork and a grand central dome form sheer cliffs. The spectacle has long
vivid political murals. give an instant sense of grandeur. The luxurious inspired artists and storytellers and
hotel retains many of the building’s historic according to Celtic mythology the
details and its 62 rooms and suites are furnished causeway was a series of stepping
in either elegant Victorian or sophisticated Art stones built by legendary Irish warrior
Deco style. While the centrally located hotel is Finn MacCool in order to fight his
surrounded by restaurants and bars, the Scottish rival Benandonner. Nearby is
opulence of the property’s Great Room the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, which
Restaurant is unmatched. This award-winning swings suspended between the
restaurant is renowned for its gorgeous interior, mainland and tiny Carrick Island, and
fresh, seasonal menus and attentive service. The romantic Dunluce Castle, a 13th-century
Merchant Hotel also offers several other dining fortification perched on a rocky
venues, intimate bars and a spa featuring a headland.
rooftop hot tub.
Peace Wall, Belfast

www.audleytravel.com/ireland • 01993 683 589 • Ireland 165


Tailoring your trip
The itineraries shown are designed to give you
an idea of what is possible, and are routes that
work particularly well. We can use these as a
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely
different itinerary to suit your tastes and
interests. Please call one of our Ireland specialists
to start planning your itinerary.

T 01993 683 589

Getting around
Despite being a relatively small island, it can take
Fresh seafood and vegetables, Connemara
a fair while to get around as once you leave the

Food & drink motorway, roads are small and often quite
winding. However, this is by far the best way to
get around, allowing you ample opportunity to
Historically Ireland has been known for In Belfast you can visit bakers and market make stops along the way, admire the scenery at
many things, but never its food. Its vendors, Connemara has traditional your leisure and visit any number of characterful
reputation for fried breakfasts, bland smokeries and lobster pots, and several local villages. Ireland’s rail network is fairly limited
dinners and potatoes with everything has distilleries open their doors to throw light with most lines spanning outwards from Dublin.
undergone a radical change in recent on the ancient art of whiskey making. You From here, you can take advantage of some
years though, and a new generation of can forage for edible seaweed along the quick and easy routes to places like Cork,
innovative chefs and artisan food coast of County Clare or outside of Sligo, Limerick and Galway, but without starting in
producers has emerged to bring the walk the Burren with a knowledgeable Dublin you’ll be limited to using the roads. Our
country’s rich natural produce and local guide or join the celebrations at private driver-guides are lively and informative
time-worn traditions to extraordinary countless food festivals across the and can impart fascinating knowledge about local
new levels. They’ve inspired others, country. Galway, Cork and Kenmare host life and the sights along the way. Alternatively,
expanded local tastes and led Ireland’s some of the biggest and best food hiring a car offers you more independence and
food scene to mature into something far festivals, but many smaller towns have flexibility.
more sophisticated than ever before. local events that bring producers and the
public together in an appreciation of the When to go
Thanks to its largely agricultural nature
fine foods now offered across their
Irish people have always had a firm Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
region.
affinity with the land. The combination of 3 3 33 33 33 3 3 3 33 33 3 3
rich soil, a mild climate, clear waters and Chefs of course have jumped at the
33 The best time to travel.
strong traditional skills has meant that chance to feature all these rediscovered 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.
high quality produce has always been ingredients on their menus, championing
Ireland has a mild, temperate climate and
valued. Today, small scale producers have local produce and taking care to let
although at times rainy, you can visit at any time
gone back to their roots building up a diners know the provenance of their
of year. Best, perhaps, are the months of March
reputation for outstanding cheeses and food. In Irish restaurants today you are
to May and September to mid-November, as the
seafood, smooth whiskeys, craft ales and likely to find award-winning chefs cooking
weather isn’t as cold as during the winter
rich wild honeys. up local lamb and langoustines, seafood
months. The months of June, July and August are
and samphire, rolling out platters of
You’ll find their produce in the host of the warmest of the year, when Ireland’s
farmhouse cheeses, and recommending
farmers’ markets that have sprung up in landscapes are at their most vibrant. However, in
local craft beers and smooth Irish
towns and villages across the country. In summer sites (and roads) are crowded and
whiskeys.
Cork, the Victorian English Market is prices at a premium. From late October some
renowned for its fine food and is a great sites close, and temperatures drop but on
place to sample traditional specialities average, remain above freezing even in winter.
such as crubeens (boiled pigs’ feet) and This can be a wonderful time to see Ireland at its
drisheen (a sausage of beef and sheep’s most calm.
blood). In Dublin and Galway you can Time difference: GMT
join a local guide to explore the cities’
ever changing food scenes, and across the Prices
country artisan producers welcome
visitors into their workplaces We offer trips to cater for a wide range of
demonstrating how they cultivate, create budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
or cure oysters, mussels, farmhouse for your trip to Ireland on our website,
cheeses, smoked fish and seaweeds. alternatively please call our specialists to discuss
your plans.
Fruit soda bread

166
Suggested itineraries
Giant’s
Causeway Finn Lough
Resort
Derry/Londonderry
Sligo
Slieve
League
cliffs
Boyne Valley Connemara
Newgrange Belfast

Dublin Dublin
Celbridge Inis Oírr

Kenmare
Beara
Peninsula

Taste of Ireland Self-drive Highlights of Ireland’s West-Coast Ireland


This short self-drive trip begins in Ireland’s lively North Self-drive Self-drive Adventure
capital, Dublin, where you’ll learn about its history Focusing on Northern Ireland and Ireland’s Your self-drive trip begins and ends in Dublin, but
and culture on a walking tour and taste whiskey untouched northwest, your journey begins in also takes you to the west coast to experience
on a self-guided trail. You’ll also travel outside Belfast, which will act as your base for exploring lovely scenery and outdoor activities. Spend time
Dublin to visit Newgrange and the Boyne Valley the scenic Antrim Coast and its Game of Thrones in Connemara hiking the Famine Trail, watching a
before leaving the city for the west coast. Travel filming locations. Drive to rugged Donegal to sheepdog demonstration, and exploring the Aran
to Kenmare to kayak on the bay and enjoy views hike along the Slieve League cliffs, explore Islands. Then travel to Sligo to kayak on Lough Gill
of the Beara Peninsula. Your trip will round off Glenveagh National Park, sample gins and and horse ride on the beach. End with a night in a
with a relaxing stay in Celbridge, near Dublin. visit Donegal Castle. bubble dome for stargazing, adventure, or
relaxation.
Day 1 A private driver will meet you at the Day 1 Pick up your car when you arrive in
airport to take you to your hotel. Belfast and head out on a tour of the Day 1 Arrive in Dublin, pick up your car
Spend the morning on a city tour Game of Thrones filming locations, and drive to Connemara.
and, in the afternoon, follow including a chance to learn archery
Dublin’s whiskey trail to sample Day 2 Take the ferry to Inis Oírr, the
at Winterfell Castle.
the city’s best. second largest of the Aran
Day 2 Drive the Antrim Coast to enjoy Islands. A local guide will give
Day 2 With your private driver-guide, coastal scenery as well as the you a tour that includes a craft
explore Ireland’s ancient past, Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, the visit and lobster lunch.
including the massive tomb of Giant’s Causeway and the Dark
Newgrange and the early sites of Day 3 Set out for a day of adventure in
Hedges.
the Boyne Valley. Connemara National Park with a
Day 3 Make your way northwest to the boat trip through the fjord, a hike
Day 3 Collect your car and head to region of Donegal, known for its along the Famine Trail and a chance
Kenmare. wild beauty. to see a sheepdog demonstration.
Day 4 Drive around the Beara Peninsula to Day 4 With a guide, hike along the edge of Day 4 Drive north to Sligo to check into
admire the wild coastal scenery. the Slieve League cliffs, which are the manor home where you’ll be
Day 5 Kayak on Kenmare Bay, looking three times higher than the staying. In the afternoon, kayak on
for seals. In the afternoon, drive better-known Cliffs of Moher. Lough Gill for lovely views.
to Celbridge for a relaxing last Day 5 Visit Donegal Castle and Sliabh Liag Day 5 Horse ride along the beach while
evening. Distillery before exploring the castle, learning about the area’s connection
Day 6 Make your way to Dublin Airport to gardens and walking trails of to the Spanish Armada. Then drive
drop off your car and board your Glenveagh National Park. to Finn Lough Resort, where you’ll
flight home. stay in a bubble dome.
Day 6 Return to Belfast to return your car
and catch your flight home. Day 6 Finn Lough offers plenty of
Stay longer distractions, including a nature spa,
Indulge in a few days at Ballymaloe Cookery Stay longer walking trains, a cinema and a
School or visit the Rock of Cashel or Blarney Spend a few days in Dublin, explore the history of lakeside setting where you can
Castle on your way to Kenmare. You can also the famine, or visit the most northerly point on relax with a drink.
learn falconry or archery. the island, Malin Head. Day 7 Return to Dublin, where you’ll
drop off your car and board your
flight home.

Stay longer
Visit the Renaissance city of Galway, explore the
rugged scenery of Donegal or admire the Marble
Arch Caves in Northern Ireland.

Coastal road, Beara Peninsula

www.audleytravel.com/ireland • 01993 683 589 • Ireland 167


Iceland
R aw, rugged and extreme, the sheer force of nature is the dominant feature on the Icelandic
landscape. This is a country shaped by volcanic activity, carved by glaciers and left almost entirely
untamed. It’s a destination for once-in-a-lifetime experiences, from snorkeling between diverging
tectonic plates to chasing the northern lights. It’s also a geographic playground for coastal hiking,
walking into ice caves, lounging in geothermal pools and admiring the thundering cascades of water,
bubbling mud pools, steaming fumaroles and glittering icebergs that make up Iceland’s otherworldly
landscape. Everywhere you go, the drama and extremes of this beguiling destination unfold
around you.

While the geology may dominate, Icelandic culture stretches from medieval sagas to flourishing
contemporary art. You’ll see rocky knolls where elvish queens are said to live, and tour the galleries,
innovative restaurants and brightly painted architecture of Reykjavík. Populated areas are few and far
between, but you’ll find the residents ready to guide you along hiking trails, through remote villages and
inside the icy blue of a glacier.

Audley in Iceland 0 30 miles

A land of natural wonders known for its 0 50 kilometres

outdoor lifestyle and 4x4 adventures, Iceland


offers a wealth of experiences. Our
Ísafjörður Siglufjörður
specialists have explored the country Húsavík
Troll
thoroughly and can build a trip that does Peninsula

more than show you its highlights. We can


Varmahlíð 1 Borgarfjörður Eystri
help you home in on its geology, wildlife or Akureyri Lake 2
Westfjords Mývatn
backcountry wilderness in more detail. Our Egilsstaðir
carefully chosen activities offer a route into
Stykkishólmur
the heart of the landscape from snorkeling ICELAND Eastfjords
between tectonic plates and hiking across 6 Langjökull
Snæfellsnes glacier
glaciers to flightseeing over Vatnajökull and Peninsula 5
tours of the remote interior highlands. We Vatnajökull
can help you gain a deeper understanding of National
Þingvellir
REYKJAVÍK Park
National
life in the country with cooking classes on a Keflavík Park Höfn
Jökulsárlón
farm and guided tours of Reykjavík’s sights,
Blue Lagoon 4 Hella
you can retreat to the spa by the Blue Reykjanes
Peninsula 3 Seljalandsfoss
Lagoon or spend an evening chasing the waterfall
northern lights in winter. Whatever you ATLANTIC
choose, we’ll bring you closer to the real Westman Vík OCEAN
Islands
Iceland and its people.

Accommodation
Sleek, modern design, minimalist decor and
subtle neutral tones are a recurrent theme
in Iceland’s hotels, from the bustling streets 1 Lake Mývatn 2 Borgarfjörður Eystri 5 Langjökull glacier
of the capital to the wilderness of the wild, Steaming geothermal vents, View puffins at this Step inside icy blue glacial caves
untouched north. Bed down in a spa-like spluttering mud pots, flooded thriving colony. and the ice chapel.
retreat with a private geothermal pool by calderas and scenic walking See pages 173-174 See page 172
the Blue Lagoon, go to a transformed sheep along the spine of the Mid-
3 Seljalandsfoss waterfall 6 Snæfellsnes Peninsula
farm on the Troll Peninsula, or take in the Atlantic Ridge.
Hike right behind this towering Explore glaciers, lava fields and
landscape through picture windows with See page 173
curtain of water and in sunny black-sand beaches on this
open views of sculptural lava fields and
weather, you might catch a picturesque peninsula.
glacier-capped mountains. Our specialists
rainbow. See page 172
have carefully chosen a selection of hotels to
See page 171
suit all tastes and budgets and can share tips Northern lights
for family-focused stays or something to 4 The Blue Lagoon On the edge of the Arctic
mark a special occasion. We can Soak in mineral-rich, bath-like Circle, Iceland is one of the best
recommend everything from quirky waters in an otherworldly places on the planet to see the
boutique properties with views of Lake landscape and take advantage northern lights.
Mývatn to remote retreats, ideal for of exclusive spa therapies at the See page 176
watching the northern lights. Blue Lagoon.
See page 170

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

www.audleytravel.com/iceland • 01993 838 431 • Iceland 169


Aerial view of Reykjavík

Reykjavík Reykjavík Residence Hotel


The centrally located Reykjavík Residence Hotel
By international standards, the Icelandic capital
is a collection of 52 apartments spread across six
region is tiny, with just 217,000 residents. But this
separate buildings. The apartments have stylish
is more than half of the country’s population, and
Icelandic decor using local fabrics, and
what the city lacks in size, it makes up for in
comfortable living spaces. Amenities include a
character. It has a creative atmosphere, with a
kitchenette or fully equipped kitchen and the
thriving arts and music scene, vibrant street art
larger two-bedroom and three-bedroom
and a host of festivals held throughout the year.
apartments are ideal for families. You’re just
Trendy bars and restaurants vie for attention,
minutes from the bars, restaurants, shops,
contemporary art galleries line the streets, and
Inside Þríhnúkagígur volcano museums and galleries of Laugavegur and
brightly painted buildings create a multi-hued
Skólavörðustígur streets.
skyline. Reykjavík’s compact nature means that
Inside the Volcano
you can walk almost everywhere and, with its Canopy by Hilton
proximity to many of Iceland’s attractions, it After an eruption, a volcano’s caldera closes up Reykjavík City Centre
makes a great base from which to explore. as the rock solidifies. But, at Þríhnúkagígur, a Encompassing six historical houses that were
volcano 20km southeast of Reykjavík, the magma once part of a furniture factory and later a
Blue Lagoon retreated down into smaller, deeper chambers, cultural venue, this hotel’s 112 rooms and suites
leaving the caldera open to the elements – and are designed to feel more characterful than
Set in a black lava landscape, the Blue Lagoon
exploration. This tour presents a rare other properties in Hilton’s portfolio. Located
steams ethereally in an otherworldly setting – its
opportunity to descend deep into a volcanic in the heart of Reykjavík, you can walk to
milky-blue waters and cloud of mist broken only
crater and safely explore the magma chamber, Laugavegur Street or borrow a bicycle to
by the bobbing heads of bathers. The waters are
with walls that sparkle in vibrant shades of blue, explore further.
heated by thermal vents and fed into the lagoon
red, orange and yellow. Inactive for 4,000 years,
cooled to bath-like temperatures. Thermal baths
the volcano is set in a region of sprawling lava
are a feature throughout Iceland, but the Blue
fields and craters and is only accessible on foot
Lagoon is a complete complex with a spa, bars,
or by helicopter. Hike in and learn how past
restaurants and hotels. Its water contains a rich
eruptions shaped this dramatic landscape before
mix of algae, mineral salts and fine silica mud,
descending into the abyss by cable lift. The tour
which is said to cure skin disorders. It’s a popular
offers the chance to better understand the
attraction, but visitor numbers are capped so it
volatile nature of the Icelandic landscape, a
never feels too busy.
valuable tool as you travel around the country.
Canopy by Hilton Reykjavík City Centre

170
Blue Lagoon

Basalt columns, south coast

Seljalandsfoss waterfall, south Iceland Snorkeling in the Silfra fissure, Þingvellir National Park

The Golden Circle Þórsmörk superjeep tour


The Golden Circle is the collective name for a With some of Iceland’s most rugged terrain, the
series of natural landmarks in southwest Iceland. best way to explore Þórsmörk is by superjeep, a
Highlights include Þingvellir National Park with its vehicle specially modified to navigate the uneven
geological drama and rich history, Geysir’s hot trails. Driven by an experienced local, you’ll wind
water blowholes, and Gullfoss – which means through a barren valley dotted by waterfalls and
‘golden waterfall,’ named after the yellowish braided with rivers. Your tour can be tailored to
spray that hangs in the air, splitting into rainbows. focus on hiking, photography or geology within
All sit within easy reach of Reykjavík, and often the harsh landscape. You’ll also visit Seljalandsfoss,
Glacier hiking, Sólheimajökull
fill a day’s exploration from the city. They can get a 60m waterfall where, weather depending, you
crowded, particularly in summer, but stay can walk behind the cascading water.
Iceland’s south coast
overnight and you can enjoy the sights at quieter
times and visit a variety of lesser-known spots. Iceland’s south coast stretches eastwards from Hotel Rangá, Hella
Opt to snowmobile on Langjökull glacier or, from the Reykjanes Peninsula across a diverse region The lodge-style Hotel Rangá is located at the foot
May to September, go white-water rafting down that encompasses black-sand beaches, jagged sea of Katla UNESCO Global Geopark. Behind the
the canyon below the falls at Gullfoss. You can stacks and basalt columns, with access to remote log-cabin façade, there are 44 simply decorated
also bathe in a geothermal hot spring at any time highland wilderness. A highly geologically-active rooms and eight suites. There’s a games room
of year. region, it’s home to several notable volcanoes and three outdoor geothermally heated hot tubs
including Katla, Iceland’s largest, and Hekla, one – from where lucky bathers have seen the
Snorkel at Silfra of the most active. You’ll also find easily northern lights. The hotel also has a stargazing
accessible glaciers and a vast sweep of wilderness observatory and offers guided night sky tours
The only place in the world where it’s possible to that offers ample opportunities for hiking, 4x4 with local astronomers.
dive or snorkel between two tectonic plates, the tours, glacier walks and visits to offshore islands.
Silfra fissure in Þingvellir National Park offers a The most accessible glacier hiking in Iceland is at
rare opportunity to see geological forces at Sólheimajökull, an outlet glacier of the huge
work. Silfra is a divergent fissure between the Mýrdalsjökull icecap. You can also visit the
Eurasian and North American plates, which are Skógafoss, a powerful waterfall, or venture
moving apart at a rate of about 2cm per year. behind the cascading water at Seljalandsfoss. The
This activity is led by a qualified guide and allows region is about a two-hour drive from Reykjavík
you to look into the enormous fissure through and activities here are more accessible than you’ll
the lagoon’s clear, glacial water. find in more remote regions.
Hotel Rangá, Hella

www.audleytravel.com/iceland • 01993 838 431 • Iceland 171


Kirkjufell, Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Snæfellsnes Peninsula Into the Glacier


& west Iceland Frustrated with the accessibility of some of
Easily accessible from Reykjavík, west Iceland is a Iceland’s natural ice caves, geophysicist Ari
microcosm of the country. Here, you’ll find Trausti Guðmundsson designed a tunnel to be
sweeping open farmland flanked by mountains dug into Langjökull, the country’s second largest
and fjords, saga history, huge glaciers and ice ice cap which sprawls across a vast area of west
caves, as well as hiking, riding, birdwatching and Iceland. Inside, you’ll find a man-made cave and
whale watching. It’s an understated region, and Ice cave, Langjökull ice-carved chapel. On this tour you’ll visit the
with fewer visitors than the south coast or glacier aboard a specially adapted bus, modified
Golden Circle, you can enjoy many of the Hotel Húsafell to tackle Langjökull’s icy terrain. The focus of
beaches, lava fields and hiking trails without the A stylish base from which to explore west your visit will be the cave, which reaches far into
crowds. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is the star Iceland, Hotel Húsafell is surrounded by some of the startling blue glacier ice. Donning crampons,
attraction, offering a taste of the whole country the country’s most photogenic countryside. you’ll enter the tunnel and, once inside the
in a compact area, with the glacier-capped There are 48 rooms with floor-to-ceiling glacier, you can learn about the glacier’s history,
volcano, Snæfellsjökull, giving way to black-pebble windows, and paintings by Icelandic artist and formation and geology from your guide.
beaches, waterfalls and lava fields. To the south, sculptor, Páll Guðmundsson. The hotel’s
you can explore steep-sided Hvalfjörður, head restaurant serves traditional Icelandic cuisine and Viking sushi
inland to the Langjökull glacier to discover there are two geothermal pools, two hot tubs,
A scenic bay on the west coast, Breiðafjörður is
manmade caves cut from ancient ice, or simply hiking and golf, and a wake-up call service when
encircled by mountains and dotted with over
get a taste of rural Icelandic life. the northern lights are visible.
3,000 islands, islets and skerries. This relaxed
boat trip is a great way to see the coastline and
Hotel Egilsen, Stykkishólmur
islands around Stykkishólmur and offers a chance
A lovingly converted family residence dating back
to sample some of the freshest seafood in the
to 1867, this hotel in the fishing village of
country. Spend your time motoring between
Stykkishólmur has retained its historic charm.
islands and sea cliffs teeming with nesting birds
The ten small but comfortable rooms feature
and learn about local legends and geology along
nautical decor and bespoke furnishings. There’s a
the way. The crew will drop a fishing net to the
library and a lounge where homemade
sea floor, hauling it up a few minutes later to
breakfasts and evening drinks are served, and in
reveal a bounty of seafood, before preparing
the warmer months, the outdoor terrace is an
samples for you to try.
ideal spot for enjoying views of Breiðafjörður Bay.
Hotel Egilsen, Stykkishólmur

172
Puffins & how to see them
Between mid-May and mid-August, almost Viewing puffins from land, meanwhile, gets
like clockwork, puffins descend on Iceland’s you closer to the birds and provides better
Boiling mudpots, Lake Mývatn area
sea stacks, rocky islets and headlands to photographic opportunities. In east Iceland,
nest. Their endearingly clownish antics can you can walk to viewing platforms at
be observed around the country. Boat trips Borgarfjörður Eystri where you’ll be
to see large offshore colonies depart from rewarded with close-up views of the birds
Reykjavík, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the plodding around the shoreline. Or, you can
west, and Húsavík in the north, where you ride in the back of a tractor to Ingólfshöfði, a
might also encounter humpback whales. Out headland on the south coast that’s a popular
on the waves, you can watch them rapidly nesting site for these charming birds.
flapping their wings as they fly past before
plunging into the water.

Humpback whale, Eyjafjörður

Lake Mývatn & the Troll Peninsula


Diamond Circle This region between the fjords of Skagafjörður
A starkly beautiful lake hemmed in by volcanic and Eyjafjörður offers scenic driving, rich history
formations, flooded calderas and bubbling mud and a glimpse of small-town Icelandic life.
pools, Lake Mývatn is a huge spring-fed body of Mountains plunge into the fjords on either side
water. Created by volcanic activity 4,000 years of the Troll Peninsula with deep valleys, lush
ago, it sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the meeting meadows, natural hot pools, remote farms and
point of two divergent tectonic plates. It’s Icelandair Hotel Mývatn historic towns in-between. The largest town on
markedly different to the rest of the country in the peninsula, Siglufjörður, sits at the foot of
its sculptural lava formations, fumaroles, volcanic Icelandair Hotel Mývatn steep mountains overlooking an inky fjord and
craters and island-like pseudocraters, which dot This boutique property is just a short stroll from was once one of the world’s herring capitals. Far
the birdlife-filled lake. It’s part of the Diamond Lake Mývatn. The lobby was designed by fewer visitors make it to this part of the country,
Circle, a 260km circular road route around Swedish installation artist Michael Johansson, and but its combination of dramatic landscapes,
northeast Iceland’s highlights. These also include the artistic theme continues in the 59 rooms and poignant history and opportunity for outdoor
Dettifoss, Europe’s largest waterfall by volume, suites. Contemporary decor is adorned with adventure make it well worth the effort to reach.
where meltwater from the Vatnajökull ice cap photographs and abstract artworks. There are
tumbles into the gorge below; and Hafragilsfoss, outdoor hot tubs where you can watch the Whale watching in
a powerful waterfall that drops into one of the northern lights when they’re visible. Eyjafjörður
deepest parts of the canyon. A short drive from
Deplar Farm, Troll Peninsula Eyjafjörður, in the north of Iceland, is known for
Dettifoss by 4x4 is Ásbyrgi, a dramatic terrace of
A former sheep farm, Eleven Experience’s Deplar its large populations of various whale species,
cliffs that overlook a lush valley.
Farm has been converted into a luxury lodge most notably the humpback. The village of
with 13 rooms and suites, all with views across Hauganes is also home to Iceland’s original whale
the Troll Peninsula. The larger gallery suites have watching company, whose daily trips take place
mezzanine lofts with additional day beds and on board a traditional fishing boat. Most
hammocks. You’ll find an outdoor geothermal commonly spotted species in the fjord are
pool and a spa with a hot tub, sauna, steam humpback whales, harbour porpoises, bottlenose
room, and two flotation tanks. Meals are enjoyed dolphins and minke whales. Once the captain
around the communal dining table. Seasonal and guide spot something, they’ll cut the engines
activities include horse riding, surfing, whale for a non-intrusive approach, which usually
watching, snowmobiling and cross-country skiing. encourages the marine life to stay close by.
Deplar Farm, Troll Peninsula

www.audleytravel.com/iceland • 01993 838 431 • Iceland 173


Church in Seyðisfjörður, Eastfjords Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon

Svartifoss, Vatnajökull National Park Fishing village, Eastfjords Turf home, Borgarfjörður Eystri

Vatnajökull National Park Eastfjords


A vast region of ice caps, thundering waterfalls, The least populated area of Iceland and one of
glaciers, canyons and volcanoes, Vatnajökull the least visited, the Eastfjords are often
National Park is Europe’s largest and covers 14% overlooked by visitors. The region feels like one
of Iceland. However, its distance from Reykjavík of the most authentic in the country with little
means it sees fewer visitors, making a trip here a fishing villages clinging to the sides of steep fjords,
chance to experience the Icelandic wilderness in landscapes imbued with living folklore and
all its glory. Skaftafell is one of its more accessible Hotel Höfn traditional life continuing largely as it has done for
areas, and is ideal for independent hiking with its centuries. With broad river valleys, snow-capped
network of trails. One of the most impressive Hotel Höfn peaks and inky fjords at every turn and hiking
sights is the waterfall at Svartifoss, which is This contemporary hotel in the small fishing town routes where you’re unlikely to meet another
framed by a wall of black basalt hexagonal of Höfn is an ideal base from which to explore soul, it’s the place to find the real Iceland and its
columns. Glacier hiking in south Vatnajökull is southeast Iceland, with the attractions of local characters.
possible year-round. Vatnajökull ice cap on your doorstep. The sleek
and minimalist rooms feature comfortable beds Borgarfjörður Eystri
Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon with high quality linens, and there’s also a village tour
by Zodiac restaurant that serves Icelandic cuisine using
Accessed via a scenic mountain pass in north
fresh and seasonal ingredients.
Take a trip out among the icebergs on a glacial east Iceland, Borgarfjörður Eystri is a picturesque
lagoon. Formed at the base of Fosshotel Eastfjords, village surrounded by rhyolite mountains, nestled
Breiðamerkurjökull, Jökulsárlón is set against a Fáskrúðsfjörður within Iceland’s Eastfjords. You’ll join a local guide
backdrop of snow-capped peaks and the On the waterfront in the eastern coastal village on this two-hour walking tour and gain insight
Vatnajökull ice cap, Iceland’s largest. Here, ice of Fáskrúðsfjörður, Fosshotel Eastfjords into the life, culture and history of this remote
calves from a glacial tongue and falls into the lake, comprises four renovated historic buildings built coastal village. You’ll visit the Lutheran church
where it can spend up to five years before finally for French fishermen who lived here between and see turf homes where Icelanders traditionally
drifting out to sea. Although it’s possible to see 1898 and 1907. Today, it’s an ideal base for hiking lived for hundreds of years. You’ll also visit the
the bergs from the lake shore, this outing lets and enjoying the fjordlands. There are 47 rooms town’s fish factory – Borgarfjörður’s largest
you board a boat and sail between them to with wooden flooring and large windows. Set on employer – and explore the huge Álfaborg rock
examine their various forms, hues and stripes of a floating pier, the hotel’s restaurant, L’Abri, that looms over the town and is said to be home
volcanic ash. It’s an eye-opening experience as serves buffet style breakfasts and French- to the Queen of the Elves.
your guide explains the geological processes influenced dishes using Icelandic ingredients.
behind such an impressive phenomenon.

174
Suggested itineraries
Tailoring your trip
The itineraries shown are designed to give you
an idea of what is possible, and are routes that
work particularly well. We can use these as a
Akureyri
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely Varmahlíð Lake Mývatn
different itinerary to suit your tastes and Snæfellsnes
Peninsula Eastfjords
interests. Please call one of our Iceland specialists
to start planning your itinerary. Reykjavík
Golden Circle
Reykjavík
Golden Circle
Keflavík Keflavík
Jökulsárlón
South coast South coast
T 01993 838 431 Blue Lagoon

Getting around
As it’s such a compact city, the best way to
explore Reykjavík is on foot with a good map.
Public buses also operate throughout the city, Northern Lights Round the Island’s
and you can travel by regular taxi, though these Winter Break Ring Road
tend to be expensive. Outside of the capital, a While we can’t dictate the weather, exploring the Iceland’s Ring Road (Route 1) sweeps around the
car is necessary to get around. You may wish to Golden Circle, the otherworldly Reykjanes island, connecting populated areas and well-
take privately guided transfers, or – if visiting Peninsula and Iceland’s scenic south coast should known sights such as the Golden Circle, but it’s
between May and September – rent a car. Most give you opportunities to see the northern lights. also an opportunity to see lesser-visited regions
roads in Iceland are well maintained, although a Travel between September and March for your including the Eastfjords and the volcanic
4x4 is necessary to navigate in more remote best chances, when you can also take glacier landscape of north Iceland. Best driven from May
hikes, soak in the geothermally-heated Blue to September, it’s an ideal self-drive route, but
areas, and adverse weather may close some
Lagoon, and explore Reykjavík on this privately can also be planned as a private tour.
sections of the Ring Road during the winter.
guided trip.
You’ll need to join a guided superjeep tour to Day 1 Arrive in Keflavík where you’ll collect
explore the central highlands; this vehicle has Day 1 Arrive in Keflavík airport where your your 4x4 and head to Reykjavík.
been specially modified to tackle Iceland’s guide will meet you and take you to
Day 2 Explore Þingvellir National Park,
mountainous inland landscape. your hotel on Iceland’s south coast.
geothermal Geysir and Gullfoss falls.
En route, you’ll explore the
Reykjanes Peninsula, a wild, craggy Day 3 Head for the south coast and spend
When to go landscape dotted with mossy lava the afternoon exploring the ice cave
fields, bubbling mud pools, volcanic on Kötlujökull glacier with a group.
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec craters and lakes. In the evening, try
Day 4 Drive through the vast Eldhraun lava
3 33 33 ~ 33 33 3 3 33 33 33 3 your luck seeing the northern lights
field to Vatnajökull National Park.
from your remote lodge.
33 The best time to travel.
Day 5 Take a guided boat tour of
3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. Day 2 Explore the south coast region with
~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.
Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon before
your guide. You’ll see thundering
hiking to see the towering basalt
Thanks to its isolated position gently warmed by waterfalls, including Skógafoss and
columns at Svartifoss waterfall.
Seljalandsfoss, and Reynisfjara black
the Gulf Stream, Iceland enjoys a temperate
sand beach. As you travel, the Day 6 Join a guided tour to the Ingólfshöfði
maritime climate. There aren’t any extreme
ice-capped volcanoes of promontory to see puffins nesting.
fluctuations in temperature from month-to- Eyjafjallajökull and Hekla loom to the
Day 7 Spend a day in the Eastfjords, visiting
month, making it a great year-round destination, north. This afternoon, don
Hengifoss or hiking through the
although certain activities are seasonal. For crampons and join a tour onto
fjordland scenery.
example, the long nights of September to March Sólheimajökull glacier.
Day 8 Head north through a landscape of
tend to be best for seeing the northern lights, Day 3 Tour the Golden Circle, taking in
bubbling mud pools and steaming
while you can see puffins between May and highlights including the tectonic
fumaroles to Lake Mývatn.
August, when they nest on land. There can also divide in Þingvellir National Park,
erupting geysers at Geysir, and feel Day 9 Visit Dettifoss and Ásbyrgi canyon
be unexpected rain throughout the year, so you
the spray at Gullfoss waterfall. Your before going whale watching in
should always be prepared for chilly, wet and guide will ensure you escape the Skjálfandi Bay.
windy days. Inclement weather may close roads crowds at some of the Golden
Day 10 Visit Goðafoss waterfall as you drive
between October and April, and late thaws in Circle’s lesser-known sights. Then,
to Iceland’s second city, Akureyri.
the highlands might affect travel to places like check into your hotel in central
Reykjavík. Day 11 Join a horse riding tour and visit
Landmannalaugar until July. But, as Icelanders will
Glaumbær Museum, close to
say: if you don’t like the weather, just wait a bit. Days 4-5 Uncover Iceland’s capital on a guided
Varmahlíð, to see its turf houses.
tour with a local resident. Learn how
Time zone: GMT
to cook traditional Icelandic dishes Day 12 Drive to the fishing village of
and how these relate to local Stykkishólmur on the Snæfellsnes
Prices folklore, and embark on a shared Peninsula for a seafood dinner.
northern lights tour in a superjeep.
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of Day 13 Tour the Snæfellsnes Peninsula’s lava
Day 6 Return to Keflavík for your onward fields, black beaches and fjords.
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices
flight. En route, you’ll stop at the
for your trip to Iceland on our website, Blue Lagoon and soak in its milky,
Day 14 Drive along Hvalfjörður as you
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss return to Keflavík airport for your
mineral-rich waters.
your plans. onward flight.

www.audleytravel.com/iceland • 01993 838 431 • Iceland 175


Northern lights, Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Catching the northern lights


A hazy-green tinge, a strobe of pink light or a You’ll then decamp from the vehicle, wrapped
dancing ribbon of vivid purple: the aurora in plenty of layers and with a cup of hot
borealis is one of nature’s most captivating chocolate in hand, to gaze skywards. Your
shows. Positioned on the edge of the Arctic guide will explain a little about what causes
Circle, Iceland is one of the best places on the the phenomenon and can give tips on how to
planet to see the northern lights. It’s also one capture them on camera.
of the most accessible: there’s no need to
It’s best to arrange a tour for the start of your
journey to remote pockets of the country,
trip. That way, if you fail to catch them or your
because the lights can potentially be seen
tour is cancelled due to poor conditions, you
anywhere. Visibility is best outside of the Northern lights, Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon can arrange a second trip free of charge.
country’s towns and cities, but built-up areas
are few and far between. downloading one of the many apps available Many Icelanders are so used to seeing the
that provide a northern lights forecast, so you northern lights that they can seem almost
When to see the northern lights know which nights are worth staying up for. blasé about the phenomenon, but hotels
As long as you’re visiting between September
around the country acknowledge its
and March and are blessed with clear skies, How to see the northern lights
significance. You can arrange northern lights
your chances of witnessing the aurora are Viewing the northern lights can be as
wake-up calls, so you’re alerted if any activity
high. The lights also rely on solar wind activity, effortless as simply looking up, particularly
occurs overnight. Some properties also have
which can be difficult to predict. It’s worth during winter months when darkness lasts up
dedicated viewing decks, or you could choose
to 20 hours a day. To increase your chances,
to stay at a hotel with naturally-heated hot
though, you could join a dedicated tour led by
tubs so you can watch the lights as you soak.
a local guide.

Departing on an evening where the chances


of activity are high, you’re driven out to a
more rural location where the night skies are
unimpeded by light pollution. Once out in the
barren volcanic landscape, your guide will
drive until the lights come into view.

Northern lights above Skógafoss waterfall Northern lights, Þingvellir National Park

176
Useful information

Connemara, Ireland

Getting around
Depending on your destination, we can arrange
several different ways for you to travel around
Europe, including ferries, planes and trains.
Though slower and sometimes expensive, ferries
to Ireland, France and Spain allow you to bring
your own car instead of hiring one. Trains are
particularly fast and efficient for visiting France
and other parts of mainland Europe or for
moving from city to city. In Switzerland, you can
Tiled houses in Porto, Portugal take panoramic trains with extra-large windows
designed to let you admire the Alpine scenery.
Contact us AITO Membership Some countries, like Iceland, Greece and Croatia,
can only be reached by plane, but we’ll give you
Address: Audley is a member of the
all the options to find the best flights for you.
Audley Travel, New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Association of Independent Tour
5013

Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom. Operators. The association represents Britain’s
leading independent tour operators and
Photography in this brochure
Telephone: 01993 838 431
encourages high standards of quality and service. We would like to thank the following
Audley abides by the Association’s Code of
Visit our offices photographers and organisations for the images
Conduct and adheres to the AITO Quality used in this brochure:
If you would like to discuss your travel Charter which can be viewed on www.aito.com
Alamy, Audley staff, clients and suppliers,
arrangements in person we welcome visits to
AWL images, iStockphoto, Dreamstime,
our offices. They are at the New Mill, a Financial security
iStockphoto, Robert Harding, Superstock, Marco
converted wool mill on the outskirts of Witney,
We hold an Air Travel Organiser’s Prosch, Heidi Hintereck, Thomas Haberland,
Oxfordshire and in Shepherd’s Bush, west
Licence (ATOL) issued by the Civil Kopie von Sophias.
London, very close to the Westfield London
Aviation Authority (ATOL number
shopping complex. Please call in advance to All images used in this brochure were obtained
4817). Some of the flights and flight-inclusive
arrange an appointment with one of our country in good faith by Audley Travel Group Limited
holidays in this brochure are financially protected
specialists. and in the belief that all necessary consents and
by the ATOL scheme. But ATOL protection does
clearances were obtained for their use. For any
not apply to all holiday and travel services listed
Terms & Conditions queries relating to photography please contact
in this brochure. Please ask us to confirm what
and Travel Insurance protection may apply to your booking. If you do
us on +44 (0)1993 838 040.

Your booking is subject to the terms and not receive an ATOL Certificate then the
conditions of Audley Travel which are detailed booking will not be ATOL protected. If you do www.audleytravel.com
in the booking form. It is vital that you have receive an ATOL Certificate but all the parts of
adequate travel insurance and we are able to your trip are not listed on it, those parts will not Our website is packed with
suggest a number of policies either for the be ATOL protected. information, features and advice
duration of your trip or on an annual basis. covering all our destinations
Those package arrangements which are
across the globe. On the site you can
not protected by our ATOL are covered by
Travel Aware ABTOT, the Association of Bonded Travel
browse by theme, interest or region as
well as viewing additional accommodation
Audley Travel is a proud partner of Organisers Trust.
options and itineraries that are not
the Foreign and Commonwealth Please see our booking conditions for featured in this brochure. You can request
Office’s Travel Aware campaign. This information, or for more information about all our brochures online or contact us via
campaign is part of the UK Government’s efforts financial protection and the ATOL Certificate go the website, where there is the option to
to help people prepare themselves for safe and to: www.atol.org.uk/ATOLCertificate. tell us about your plans so that we can
healthy travel abroad. More information can be start tailoring your itinerary.
found on www.gov.uk/travelaware

Useful information 177


New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom
Website: www.audleytravel.com

5013

This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forest Stewardship Council ®, using
vegetable inks. Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC® environmental certifications. Should you wish to dispose of your
brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it. The paper used in this brochure has also been carbon balanced.

You might also like