Study of the Apparel & Garments Wear Colouration Processing

Ramratan1, Mohammed Gofran2, Sanjeev Singla3

1 Ph. D Research Scholar, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar, Punjab, 144011, India
2-3 Assistant Professor, School of Fashion Design and Technology, Lovely Professional University, Phagwara,
Punjab, 144411, India

E-mail: ramratan333@gmail.com , trugoofs@gmail.com

Abstract
In the recent years, the garment dyeing has been slowly emerging as a process to meet the
ephemeral fashion trends adopted by the consumers and new machines and methods have made
this process to wear a brighter future for it. A coloured garment is produced in basic ways.
Colouration and finishing of fabric followed by its conversion to garment (the ancient process,
basically a fabric dyeing process) Pretreated fabric is transformed into garment followed by
colouration as well as finishing, and Garment is prepared directly from grey fabric followed by its
pretreatment, colouration and finishing. Garment dyeing has proliferated itself in the present
scenario because of its superior multi-fold ability, viz. Flexibility towards fast-changing market
trends, Reduced cost of production, Better aesthetic properties, Reduced inventory, Augmentation
of easy monitoring techniques, Replenishment of stocks with newer trend and fashion. The Present
study is a general overview represent Garments dyeing, Classification of garments base on wearers
and use, garment dyeing machines, individual colouration of garments, garments dyeing
techniques.

Keywords: Garments dyeing, Garment dyeing machines, Individual colouration of garments.

1. Introductions

Garments dyeing procedure has seemingly proliferated itself in dyeing and finishing in recent
years. Necessities of quicker fashion changes, reduction in final cost of production and a better
aesthetic of dyed garments have enhanced the need for garment dyeing. Benefits of processing
articles by garments dyeing procedure revolve around quick response and inventory control.
Processing lead time has considerably been reduced by almost 33% through garment dyeing
technique, since colour is added late in the apparel process chain. Augmentation of easy
monitoring techniques, reduced level of stock holding, complete computerized control and bar
coding have recently emerged out as additional features of garment dyeing technique [1]. Major
interest in garment dyeing has developed to service domestic market with exceptional speed of
response as mean of differentiating from traditional colouration provided by exhaust and
continuous processing. Endeavor of clothing industry is to have maximum flexibility in respect
of colouration. Earnest of proper colouration, flexibility and other features conforming to the latest
but short- lived fashion trends demand garments dyeing for production of quality garments,
meeting the demands of customers exactly [2].

2. Classification of garments based on use

2.1 Casual wear / leisure wear

• Garments designed for informal occasions are termed as casuals.

• They are T-shirts, knitted garments, etc. Knitted fabrics respond to more freedom of
movement than woven fabrics and are ideal for casual wear.
• It gives pleasing appearance, loose elastic structure, comfort and softness.
• These garments can be dyed with pleasing and medium colours those do not look attractive
and leads the person act psychologically casual.
2.2 Day wear
• The fabrics selected to wear as daytime wear are cotton, gabardine and sail cloth during
summer season [3].
• Double knits velveteen and corduroys are selected during winter season.
• Medium and dark shades can be used in day wear due to exposure to open climate during
the day time.
• The medium and dark shades show improved light fastness.
2.3 Night wear
• While selecting the garment for night wear it should not possess any harmful ingredient
and accessories.
• Therefore, mild or light shades are mostly preferred as light shades retain less harmful
ingredients as compared to dark shades.
2.4 Party wear
• Industries focus on manufacturing luxurious garments for children in various styles and
prevailing trends.
 • These are also called as special occasion garment. Fabrics like velvet, denim, satin, etc, are
used in party wears with different styles.
• Party wears can be tried with double coloured effects with a choice of attractive colours.
2.5 Uniforms
• As uniforms are worn repeatedly, colourants conforming bright shades with good colour
fastness should be selected.
• Dark shades with better colour fastness are mostly preferred, e.g. vat and sulphur dyes for
cotton uniforms, 1:2 metal complex dyes for nylon / silk / wool etc

2.6 High fashion wear

• Fashion in clothing has always been a reflector of change in life style of people.
• A complete range with the most luxurious look and superior comfort is an absolute must.
• Greater spectrums of bright, vivid colours and designs have become the key for the
purchase of high fashioned wear.
• They look only for latest fashions and these can be worn during special occasion like
parties.
3. Classification kids wear

Figure 1: Classification of the kid garments wear

3.1 Features of infant garments

• Babies up to two years come under this classification. During this age, the head does not
correctly stand on their neck. So, garments should manufacture with full opening [4].
 • According to the seasons, the material should be selected, i.e., thick or thin. Normally soft
and lightweight materials should be selected.
• During this period, the child is susceptible to catch cold, therefore, a sufficient and adequate
care should be taken in selection of suitable clothing.
• The clothes should be of such type that they do not restrict the infants body movements.

3.2 Features of toddler’s garments

• Children from the age of 2-8 are called as toddlers. Toddlers have very little waist shaping
and protruding stomach. These features decrease as the child grows and loses fat [5].
• Colour also plays vital role. Colour differs according to different climatic conditions.
During hot season, light colours like white, blue, green, purple, etc should be given
importance. Black colour should be totally avoided during summer season.
• Children like bright colours, viz. red, blue and yellow.
• Brown, warm/cool colours combination, the royal purple is some of the colours that are
raising its peak in this youthful world. The colour reflects the mood of the children.
• The colours used in children's garments should not be sensitive to their skin.

3.3 Features of children's garments

• Soft, comfortable, easy to put on and take off; construction is comparatively loose
• Easy access to nappy because of frequent changing, Non-flammable, Lightweight
• Non-irritating, Underclothes should be essentially made of organic fibres
• Allow quick transmission of sweat from skin to environment
4. Choice of garments for kids
The choice of garments for children is based on the following four factors

4.1 Temperature

• Clothing can cause children to be uncomfortably warm or cool. Comfortable clothing will
allow absorption and ventilation so that body moisture can evaporate easily [6].
• Cotton and cotton blend fabrics are absorbent and comfortable for small children.
 • Synthetic fibre fabrics are usually nonabsorbent, and uncomfortable for children in warm
weather. Pay special consideration to baby’s comfort if disposable diapers are used
frequently.
• These diapers do not allow ventilation; skin irritation may result if care is not taken.

4.2 Flexibility in body movement

• Children do not enjoy wearing clothing that restricts body movement. Clothing that is too
small or too large can inhibit body movement and interfere with a child’s activity [7].
• Avoid uncomfortably small necklines, armholes, sleeves, waistlines and elastic that is too
tight.
• Too large clothing that twists around the body or trips the child also should be avoided.
4.3 Irritating textures
• Harsh, scratchy fabrics, fasteners and seam finishes can irritate a child’s sensitive skin.
• Clothing made from soft cotton or cotton-blend fabrics are comfortable and easy to care
for. Knitted fabrics are excellent choices for young children’s clothing.
4.4 Colour
• Mostly light colours are used for infant due to less harmful ingredients.
• For toddler, medium shades can be used.
• For children, medium to dark or bright shades can be used.

5. Classification: men’s / women’s wear

Figure 2: Classification: men’s and women’s garments wear

5.1 Size
• Depends upon person to person. Standard size chart is followed for sewing the garment
[8].
5.2 Age
• According to the age of the user, the choice of colour varies.
• For children, light to mild colours are safe to use.
• Teenagers like dark and bright colours.
• Elder people like mild and dull shades.
• Thus, colour varies for different age group and their interest.

5.3 Economic status

• Depends on the earning of the people.

5.4 Season

Colour differs according to different climatic conditions

• Summer: During hot season light colours like white, blue, green, purple, etc, should be
given importance. Black colour should be preferably avoided [9].
• Winter: During winter season dark colour are used in order to provide warm feeling to the
body. The colours preferred for this season are red, red-orange, maroon, black etc.
5.5 Fashion
• Fashion reflects the changing life style of garment.
• Fashion changes according to the new development techniques.
• Now-a-days fashions are created according to the mindset of children.
• The garments are designed and styled based on these fashions.
5.6 Occasion
• For different occasion, selection of appropriate colours is more important.
• Some of the occasions are funeral, wedding, graduation day, etc.
• For funeral white or black colours are usually preferred
• For wedding bright and dark colours are usually preferred.
 6. Garment dyeing machines

Figure 3: Garments dyeing machines

6.1 Paddle dyeing machine
Paddles are widely accepted for sweaters and loosely knitted goods due to their soft dyeing action,
which avoids abrading and pilling the garments [10]. Three types machine
Horizontal paddle machine, Lateral paddling machine, HT Paddle machine
6.1.1 Application
Paddle dyeing machine offers itself as a suitable dyeing platform for all types of piece goods. This
typically includes rugs, socks, bed spreads, and other types of garments as well as fabrics.
6.2 Rotary drum dyeing machines
In rotary drum machines, a perforated drum is suspended along lengthwise axis in a horizontal
position, submerged in the dye liquor. The internal drum is divided into compartments to ensure
rotation of goods with the drum and are capable of rotating at 2-20 rpm. The outer vessel holds the
required volume of dye liquor. Drum can rotate in both the direction but the material is moved and
the liquor remains stationary. High temperature drum machines are capable of processing the
garments up to 140oC. This machine is also known as the ¡¨multipurpose drum dyeing machine or
multi rapid dyeing centrifuging machines because scouring, dyeing and centrifuging conditioning
successively done with automated control. Suitable for the knits as well as to all sorts of garments
[11].
6.3 Pegg toroid dyeing machine

In these machines, the garments are moved in the liquor in a toroidal path with the aid of an
impeller situated below the perforated false bottom of the vessel. Movement of the goods depends
completely on the pumped action of the liquor. High temperature versions of this machine
operating at 120-130 ˚C was developed in the 1970’s for dyeing of fully-fashioned polyester or
triacetate garments. The liquor ratio of such machines is around 30:1. With the introduction of the
textured polyester yarns into knitted garments, dyeing became necessary to carry out at 120-125
ᶿ
C and for this, pressurized garment dyeing machine, i.e. Pegg Toroid machine have been
developed. The principle is to induce a circular flow in a vertical plane around the machine [12].

7. Multi-coloured dyeing of garments

Air dyeing, Snow dyeing, Space dyeing, Dip / loop dyeing, Shade to shade dyeing, Ombre dyeing,
Tie and dye, Tulip tie and dye method, Resist dyeing, Batik dyeing, Surface dyeing, Local dyeing
Conclusions
Commercially garments dyeing is a relatively newer field of textile processing. Till the recent past,
there were no large-scale readymade garment dyers in India and now it is time that large scale
readymade garments manufacturing gradually switching over to garment dyeing after carefully
studying the pros and cons. The advantage of garment dyeing lies in its flexibility towards the fast-
changing market. Quick and beneficial response and rapid turnaround. Flexibility towards dye
shades, finish and lot sizes. Garments dyeing results in comparatively lessor rejections,
requirements of lessor inventory, smaller capital investments and the chances of producing fancy
and pristine effects. Thus, with the widening of the prospects of garments dyeing with further
developments from the technological point of view, the fashion trends have become more dynamic
and pristine.
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