Study of the Garments & Apparel Seam Quality Characterization Performance

Ramratan1, Sukhvir Singh2, Mohammed Gofran3, Sanjeev Singla4

1 Ph. D Research Scholar, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar, Punjab, 144011, India
2 Assistant Professor, School of Fashion and Design, Mody University, Lakshmangarh (Sikar), Rajasthan,
332311, India
3-4 Assistant Professor, School of Fashion Design and Technology, Lovely Professional University, Phagwara,

Punjab, 144411, India

E-mail: ramratan333@gmail.com, sukhvirsingh.sod@modyuniversity.ac.in

Abstract
In good quality apparels, compatibility of the seams with the functional requirement is very
important for serviceability and life of the apparel. The seam quality criteria are an important factor
of garments quality and their overall quality assessment implies certain evaluation tests that depend
on the designed profile of the garment. In practice, the choice of the sewing threads implies both
the sewing recommendations from the supplier and the garment's individual quality criteria. For
every coat and shirting, the seam stability is a feature that includes standard quality indicators for
the assessment of the seam quality, and an individual quality criterion for the assessment of
sewability. In addition, sewability depends on sewing thread quality, which is an issue related to
seam quality. The Present study is a general overview represent types of the stitching, technology
involved in a Fashion and design seam performance, apparel quality and characterization.

Keywords: Stitch type, Seam, Seam characterization & quality

1. Introduction
The fabric quality influences not only the quality of the garment but also the ease with which a
shell structure can be produced out with flat fabric. The specifications of fabrics for apparel
manufacturing can be considered in terms of primary and secondary quality characteristics. The
primary quality characteristics are static physical dimensions and secondary characteristics are the
reactions of the fabric to an applied dynamic force [1]. The apparel manufacturer is primarily
interested in the secondary characteristics of the fabric and focus on the seam quality during the
fabrication and production of apparel. On the other hand, apparel consumers are mainly paying
attention to appearance, comfort, and wearability of fabric and evaluate seam quality based on the
seam appearance and its mechanical intactness after wear and care procedures of apparel [2]. The
production of garments from high quality fabrics not only gives comfort to the wearer but also
helps in the smooth working of manufacturing processes and leads to almost defect-free garments.
The fabric properties which affect the seam quality of apparel are cover factor, weight, thickness,
strength, shrinkage, functional finishes, extensibility, bending rigidity, and shear rigidity, some of
which form an integral part of low stress mechanical properties [3]. The role of fibre types and its

% in made-up fabric is very important for sewing performances and characteristics due to its effect
on made-up fabric mechanical properties.
2. Stitches Types of the Apparel
Classified by US Federal Standards
Based on common kinematic principle of stitch construction.
1. Class 100 - Single thread chain stitch
2. Class 200 - Hand stitch - normally not sewing machine
3. Class 300 - Lock stitch - Hook & bobbin
4. Class 400 - Multi thread chain stitch – Looper
5. Class 500 - Overedge and safety stitch
6. Class 600 - Cover stitch - Similar to 400, but with top cover

2.1 Special Stitch Types

1. Pin tuck - Lock or Chain, In Lockstitch

2. Picotin Zig - Zag

 3. Smocking- Multi needle chain stitch

4. Blind hem stitch – Lock /Hand stitch /Machine stitch (trouser)

3. Seam:

Seam is the combination of stitches which make line to join two plies of fabric. Used as functional
purpose. Some time used as decorative purposes. Seams are widely used in modern mass-produced
apparel, footwear, house hold textiles and sporting goods which are sewn by different industrial
sewing machines. Seam may be hundred types and these types are classified into eight main classes
[4].

3.1 8 classes of seams are defined in the ISO classification and seams are described as:
Class 1: Superimposed seam

These generally start with two or more pieces of material superimposed over each other and joined
near an edge, with one or more rows of stitches. There are various types of seams within the SS
class [5].

Uses: Mostly used inside seam like as shirt and pants

Class 2: Lapped seam

Two or more plies of material are lapped (i.e. with edges overlapped, plain, or folded) and joined
with one or more rows of stitches.

French seaming involves 2 stitching operations with an intervening folding operation - a flat,
folded seam with only one row of stitching visible on the top surface, commonly used for rainwear.

The Lap Felled type, involves only one stitching operation- a strong seam with fabric edges
protected from fraying. Commonly used for making up jeans or similar garments.

Uses: Inside seam of jeans and dress shirts etc.

Class 3: Bound seam

Binding strip over the edge of the plies of material and joining both edges of the binding to the
material with one or more rows of stitching. This produces a neat edge on a seam exposed to view
or to wear [6].

Uses: Neckline of a t-shirt, Yoke joint in the shirt waist band, under wire

Class 4: Flat seam

In these seams, sometimes called Butt Seams, two fabric edges, flat or folded, are brought together
and over sewn with a zig-zag lockstitch, chainstitch or covering stitch (Class 600).

The purpose is to produce a join where no extra thickness of fabric can be tolerated at the seam, as
in underwear or in foundation garments. The looper thread(s) must be soft, yet strong and the cover
thread may be decorative as well as strong [7].

Uses: Intensively used in under garments in knit wear.

Class 5: Decorative seam

A series of stitches along a straight or curved line or following an ornamental design, on a single
ply of material. More complex types include various forms of piping, producing a raised line along
the fabric surface [8].

Uses: Used in pant or other dresses

Class 6: Edge neatening seam

Finishing the edge of a single ply of material by folding it or covering it with a stitch. In this a cut
edge of a single ply is reinforced by overedge stitching to neaten and prevent fraying Includes
other popular methods of producing a neat edge like hemming and Blind Stitch hemming.

Uses: Mostly used knitted garments and hemmings.

Class 7: Addition of separate items to edge of garment

These are sometimes called applied seam because they are mainly used to a decorative material to
an edge of seam such as lace-elastic. Similar to lapped (class-2) but the joined component is
extended limited on both side from sewn line [9].

Class 8: One piece of material used in seam (belt loop)

Mainly one piece of fabric used. This class is commonly used for waist belt and loop belt. The
edges of fabric are sewn by folding in various ways [10].

4. Seams: Quality issues & Solutions

4.1 Some seam quality issues
➢ Seam slippage
➢ Skipped stitches
➢ Unbalanced stitches
➢ Uneven SPI
➢ Seam grin
➢ Puckering
4.2 Seam Characterization
A garment is made up using a series of different seams. Therefore, a thread should be chosen for
specific seams to ensure maximum benefits.
➢ Seam appearance
➢ Seam strength
➢ Seam stretch
 ➢ Seam durability

Conclusions
• The fabric properties which affect the seam quality are cover factor, weight, thickness,
strength, shrinkage, functional finishes, extensibility, bending rigidity and shear rigidity.
• Seam appearance and performance depends on the interrelationship of fabrics, sewing
threads, and the stitch/seam selection and lastly on the sewing conditions, which include
the needle size, needle thread tension, stitch density, the appropriate operation and
maintenance of the sewing machine etc.
• For proper appearance, seam should not contain any defects including skipped stitches,
unbalanced stitches, seam grin, distortion or unevenness or puckering, unsteadiness,
improper drape ability, uneven seam density and yarn severance or damage.

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