Garments Merchandising

1. Concepts of garments manufacturing

2. Idea Generation
3. Sketch design
4. Create Patten
5. Fabric Selection
6. Sampling making according to inspiration
7. Marker Making
8. Lay Planning / Spreading
9. Cutting / Numbering / Cut panel checking

Concepts of garments manufacturing

Idea generation
Fabric selection

Woven Fabric = Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving.

Woven fabrics are often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on
a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing
two or more threads at right angles to one another. Woven fabrics are generally
more durable.

Non woven fabric : interfacing

Braided fabric :

Types of woven fabric

Types of Woven Fabrics – universally used fabric names
 Buckram Fabric
A stiff coated fabric made from a lightweight loosely woven fabric, impregnated with adhesives and fillers, this
fabric is used as interfacing so as to provide support and shape retention to necklines, collars, belts, cuffs,
waistbands, button closures etc in garments. They are also used as reinforcements for handbags and other articles.

 Cambric a lightweight fabric woven in plain weave and produced with a stiff finish. It is suitable for
women’s dresses and children’s dresses that require crispness. Ex : Solid dyed cambric fabric , cotton
cambric , linen cambric .

3. Casement Fabric
Casement is a medium weight cotton fabric made of closely packed thick warp yarns. Generally, it is used
for curtains, table linen, upholstery and rarely used for dresses.

4. Cheese Cloth
It is a popular lightweight sheer fabric having an open weave. It has a low count fabric consisting of carded yarns.
Originally it was used for wrapping cheese or meat and hence the name. It is neither strong nor durable. It is finished
in a variety of ways that attract the consumer. It is used not only for women’s and children’s dresses but also for
drapery fabrics. Due to its open structure, it does not require much ironing.

5. Chiffon Fabric
Chiffon fabrics are sheer, lightweight fabrics made of hard twisted yarns. Originally these are made in silk fabrics
but today they are made from rayon or polyester. They are used for sarees and women’s evening wear. The fabrics
encounter the problem of shrinkage.
6. Chintz Fabric
Chintz is a medium weight, plain woven cotton yarn. It is often given a glazed finish which may be temporary or
semi-permanent glazed chintz are available in solid colour as well as printed with floral prints. These are often made
from blends of cotton and polyester or rayon. They are used for skits, dresses, blouses, pyjamas, aprons, and
draperies.

7. Corduroy Fabric
It is a cut pile fabric available in solid colours. The cut pile fibres are seen in the form of ribs on the surface. It is
mainly used for pants, jeans, and shirts.

8. Crepe Fabric
A silk fabric is originally characterized by a crinkle, puckered surface formed by highly twisted yarns in the warp or
weft or both. By using ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also be produced. Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe
effect finish. It is used for sarees, shirts, women and children’s dresses.
9. Denim Fabric
It was traditionally a yarn dyed, warp-faced cotton twill fabric. Warp is usually coloured (mostly blue, maroon,
green and brown) and weft is white. This fabric is made of two weights for sportswear and overalls. Its use as jeans
has made it very popular and so the nature of denim is also changed to suit the trend. It is often napped, printed and
made with stretch yarn.

10. Drill Fabric
It is a warp-faced twill woven fabric. It has a stiff finish. Originally it was produced in white and now it is available
in solid colours. It is mainly used for pants, knickers, and uniforms.

11. Flannel Fabric
Flannel is a woollen fabric woven in plain or twill weave having the characteristic soft handle. It looks like a bulky
fabric due to the milling that is usually done to this fabric. Flannel fabric is used for suits and pants and infant’s
clothing.

This fabric is popular as cleaning fabric due to its extreme softness. This is also used to protect children from the
cold atmosphere.

12. Gabardine Fabric
Gabardine is a closely woven, clear finished warp-faced twill fabric. It contains a number of warp yarns than weft
yearns and also more durable. It is usually woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill and has a raised diagonal twill effect on the
right side. It largely used for raincoats, suitings, and sportswear.

13. Georgette Fabric
Georgette is a sheer lightweight fabric, woven in plain weave. It has a characteristic rough texture produced by hard
twisted ply, yarns both in warp and weft. Originally it was made in silk, but today it is produced in rayon and
polyester too. It’s mainly suitable for women’s evening wear.

14. Kashmir Silk Fabric

Kashmir silk is a silk fabric produced in plain weave and is either embroidered or printed. The motifs used are
characteristic of Kashmir. It is used for shirts, women’s wear and sarees. Kashmir shawls are woven in twill weave
and are usually embroidered with traditional Kashmiri embroidery.

15. Khadi Fabric
Khadi is a term used for a wide variety of fabrics that are hand spun and hand woven. They are produced in mainly
one cotton fibre, blends of two or more fibres. They are known for durability and simplicity. The fabrics can be
suitings dhoties overalls and household textiles.

16. Lawn Fabric
The lawn is a fine sheet, lightweight, crisp fabric either made of cotton or linen. Various finishes are given to this
fabric, in which the fabric is called by the name of the finish. It is mainly used as lining in a dress.

17. Mulmul Fabric
It is an Indian term generally applied to fine cotton fabric slightly heavier, than muslin. These are often printed
fabrics. They find use as sarees.

18. Muslin Fabric
Muslin is a lightweight open cloth of plain weave. It may be used as grey or bleached and dyed. It is used as
household textiles and dress materials. The name is derived from the city of Mosul where the fabric was first made.

It is a very light and open tabby (plain) weave fabric used for summer dresses and utility use. At first, the cloth was
not always plain but could also have silk and gold thread woven into it. As the ability to spin yarns of greater
fineness developed cotton was used more readily than silk. In this muslin, the motif weaves in and out of the cloth,
as if it has been embroidered. In the Madras net, the motif is predominately woven on the surface.

19. Poplin Fabric
Poplin is a medium weight, the cotton fabric having a fine weft rib. it is generally used for shirting, dresses, and
upholstery.

20. Sheeting Fabric
These are primarily used for bed coverings. They are medium weight, closely woven fabrics woven either in plain or
twin weave. Sheeting fabrics are made in different widths. High-quality cotton sheetings are made in plain weave
with a width of 64″ x 58″ and in a twill weave with a width of 60″x72″.

21.Taffeta Fabric
Taffeta is a smooth, crisp, transparent fabric having a fine rib. Originally it is made with silk fibres but now it is also
made of rayon. It has a characteristic finish which produces crispness. It is used as women’s evening wear.

22. Tissue Fabric
It is a fine fabric either made of silk or man-made fibre. They are characteristically interwoven with gold or silver
threads. It is produced in rich colours and they are used as women’s dress material, sarees etc.

23. Aertex Fabric
A trade name for a cloth patented in Britain in 1886, which was first manufactured in 1888. The cloth traps air in
between its structure, keeping the body cool in summer, and warm in winter. Two threads or ends act as one thread;
when a weft thread passes between them, the doup ends twist catching the weft and holding it tightly in place. Very
fancy and beautiful clothes can be produced by combining the cross weaving with other weave structures.

24. Madras Muslin Net Fabric

Madras net is used mainly for furnishing such as curtaining. The cloth is an open gauze ground cloth where an extra
weft is inserted to produce a motif, this is then woven into the ground cloth. Where there is a surplus floating weft
yarn this is then cut away after weaving revealing the motif, the edge of the sheared motif shows shorn ends of a
weft yarn.

25.  Aida cloth Fabric

Aida cloth is a cotton fabric with a natural mesh pattern generally used for cross-stitch embroidery. The open, even-
weave Aida fabrics’ natural stiffness enables the fabric the embroiderer’s choice.

26. Velvet Fabric
It is a warp cut pile fabric, originally made from silk. It is also produced in Rayon. The dense cut pile makes it very
soft and lustrous. It is used as dress materials for women and children. It is also produced with special high twisted
yarns which are single or ply yarns. Based on the yarns used and twist given, they are named as semi violes (single
yarns1x1) full voiles. (ply yarns 2×2) or half voile (double in warp and single in weft 2×1).

Knit Fabric
For the layman, a knit fabric is what the t-shirts are made of. For me, knit is a stretchy fabric that makes
beautiful clothes,  comes in a variety of vivid colors and prints and hides a multitude of faults in my body
by virtue of its elasticity. For the expert, jersey knit, rib knit and all those different types of knit fabric
names make sense- but for you and me the beauty and ease of the collective knit fabrics are usually
enough.

Types of knit fabric

1. Jersey knit

This is a light to medium weight single knit fabric, made by weft knitting process. This is the most
preferred knit fabric for making dresses and t shirts. It has good drape. It is also made in different types
of fibers like, wool jersey, silk jersey etc. You can see that the two sides of the fabric are different. One
side of the fabric has only knit stitches (which looks like chain stitches or v shaped stitches) and the other
side has purl stitches. It has a fair amount of stretch as well. 

 Cotton jersey fabric is the most preferred of jersey fabric. It is a medium weight 4 way stretch
knit fabric. T-shirt jersey is a cotton jersey with a 2 way stretch. T- shirt jersey does not have the
soft drape of a rayon jersey fabric or silk jersey. It rolls at the cut edges. This fabric can be used
to sew cardigans, tank tops.
 Rayon jersey is a great fabric for sewing clothes as well because of its softness.  It usually has
a  4-way stretch . Interlock twist jersey, Matte Jersey, metallic jersey are other available
variations. A Cotton, Poly, Rayon blend makes a very lightweight fabric. 
 Spun Poly Jersey has a matte finish without too much stretch. Cotton-poly-rayon
Jersey has all the fibers blended to form a superior fabric with a very soft feel and great drape
 Jersey knit slub fabric – in this type of fabric slub yarns are added to the single jersey fabric
for added thickness and better appearance. This results in horizontal lines throughout the fabric.
But this fabric does not have much stretch – it has a 2 way stretch. It is generally a lightweight
fabric made of cotton-poly fibers.
 Silk Jersey is a very soft almost see through, lightweight and shiny fabric with a very good
drape and stretch. It is the best fabric for making tops and blouses and dresses.
 Burntout Jersey and Tissue Jersey are specialty Jersey fabrics with a see through look. The
Burntout Jersey has burnt out designs throughout.

2. Elastane knit

You take 10 tops in your cupboard and you will find that 8 of them is in this fabric. It has the comfort of
cotton or at times polyester and stretchiness and ease of knit. These are lycra or spandex knit blend
fabrics (elastane).  It is soft but if you want to sew with them you may find it difficult. It is a great fabric
for making sleepwear because of its comfort level.

Scuba Knits are knit fabrics that have the slick surface of scuba diving outfits along with stupendous
stretch and recovery. Nylon Lycra , also known as swimwear knit is a semi opaque knit fabric used to
make active wear and swim wear.

Rayon Spandex is a soft 4 way stretch lightweight fabric with a good drape and nice feel.

3 Rib knits are fabrics with visible distinct vertical ribs on both sides of the fabric. It is a double-faced
reversible fabric. It is made of alternating knit and purl stitches on the same row with a weft knitting
process. 

It is usually used to make bands on turtlenecks, t-shirt neckband, cuffs, hems etc but you can make
whole garments with this fabric as well. It has a crosswise stretch and a very soft feel. You can make
drapey flattering clothes with this. Cardigans, sweaters, camisoles etc are usually made with rib knit
fabric.

Depending on the size of the rib, rib knits are available as  1*1 rib kit , 2*2 rib knit and 3* 3 rib knit and
even 6* 6 knit (also called Poor Boy Rib Knit with a wide wale ribbing). 1*1 Rib is used for making tshirt
collars ; 2*2 Rib is used for cuffs and neckbands. 1*3 rib knit is an uneven rib knit.
Ribbed knit with spandex has great stretch.

4. Doubleknit

Double knit is a medium weight knit fabric (almost double thickness of single knit) which usually looks the
same on both sides and has less stretch than a single knit fabric. It looks at first glance as if two knit
fabric is kept together (hence the name). Usually, it looks the same on both sides (this is not always true,
but mostly it is the same)

This fabric is considered more stable and less stretchy than most other knits.

It is thick and fluffy because of its special two needle construction. Many different fibers are used to
make double knits. – cotton, rayon, wool etc, even synthetic fibers are used

Double knit with rayon is the most preferred double knit fabric because it is very soft. Ponte di
Roma (Ponte knit) is a popular double knit fabric. It has a fine crosswise rib texture and is used to make
pants and dresses. Double pique, Double Jacquard are all double knits

5. Interlock

This is a reversible knit fabric with very fine lengthwise ribs; You might confuse this fabric with a jersey
knit but on closer reverse side look you will see that the fabric looks the same on both sides, unlike
in jersey. It is also thicker than single knit fabric. The smooth surface of interlock knit fabric makes it
suitable for design works, like fabric painting, embroidery etc.

It is thicker than other knits ( almost double the thickness of jersey knits) and hence you will find it easier
to sew with. It is the stabler of all knits and keeps its shape to a degree and is great for making fitting
dresses and even tailored clothes.

6. Lace knits

This is a beautiful fabric to make clothes with because this fabric combines the beauty of lace with the
elasticity of knit- but the problem is in maintaining it; below is the photo of a lace knit after some over-
enthusiastic washing – maybe I did pop it into the washing machine -ouch.

7. Mesh Knits

This is a durable open work knit which has the look of tulle fabric.It is sheer, lightweight and
has a good stretch with good strength. It is available in very pretty prints. Sequins are
stitched with machine on this fabric to make beautiful sequined fabric

8. Piled knit

Eyelash Knit is knit fabric with a pile. It looks almost like faux fur because of the pile. It is usually used
to make sweaters and for making trims. 
Terrycloth Knit is a knit fabric which mimics the look of the toweling fabric. One side will be flat but the
other side will be super piled with loops all over the surface.

Fleece knit is a piled knit with a knit look on the backside but with a very fuzzy top surface.

Stretch Velvet looks just like any velvet with lots of pile on the surface but has a knit backing It has a
good 2 way stretch, which makes it suitable for making figure-hugging gowns.

 
Velour is a super soft piled knit with a 4 way stretch

9. Sweater knits

These are knits which are specially used for making sweaters (come under the category raschel knits).
They are available in many types. They usually are firmly / closely knit and has a stable strong feel. It is
very comfortable to wear ; some sweater knits have texture build on them, some have open weave with
open holes between knitting resulting in an almost sheer look (Loose weave sweater knits)

10. Purl knit

Purl knit is a bulky knit fabric with 2 way stretch. It is about 2-3 times the thickness of jersey knit. It has
the same look on both sides of the fabric -with knit stitches and purl stitches appearing in the same
column along the length on the surface of the fabric. It has a crosswise as well as lengthwise stretch. It
is usually used to make sweaters

11. Tricot knits

This is a smooth fabric with lengthwise ribs on one side and crosswise ribs on the other. It is soft and
thin fabric. A Half Tricot knit fabric has a single bar warp knit construction and is usually used for making
lining and lingerie; Full tricot has a multibar warp knit construction- it is used for making lingerie, as well
as dresses and blouses.You can also make swimwear with tricot

Tricot knits stretch more in the crosswise direction. 

12. Handmade knit fabric

Knitting is a hobby to countless men and women all across the world. With the help of knitting needles
and yarn and countless hours of patient hand labour beautiful fabric is knitted and made into clothes –
more beautiful than any machine can conjure up – because of the love and effort that goes into each
piece.

Non – woven fabric

Nonwoven fabric is a fabric-like material made from staple fiber (short) and long fiber (continuous long),
bonded together by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. The term is used in
the textile manufacturing industry to denote fabrics, such as felt, which are neither woven nor knitted.

Different types of non-woven fabrics over-view

The non-woven fabrics can be divided into 8 types according to different manufacturing processes:

Spunlace nonwovens

It is a non-woven cloth, it is the direct use of polymer slices, short fibers or filaments into a network of
fiber by air or mechanical, spunlace, acupuncture, or hot-rolled reinforcement, and finally after finishing
the formation of spunlace nonwoven fabric.

Application: It is well-known for its great uses for facial mask fabric, medical non-woven fabric, wet wipe
fabric, non-woven filter fabric and etc.

Heat-bonded nonwoven fabrics

This type of non-woven fabric is mainly manufactured in several processes: adding fibrous or sticky
reinforcement material into the fiber network, and then reinforcing the network into cloth via heating
and cooling.

Pulp air-laid nonwovens

Air-laid nonwovens can also be called the dustless paper or dry paper nonwovens. It uses the air-laid
technology to open the wood pulp fiberboard into a single fiber state, then uses the airflow method to
make the fiber agglomerate on the net curtain, and then consolidates the fiber web into cloth.

Wet-laid non-woven

The manufacturing process of wet nonwoven fabric goes like this: open the fibrous raw material in the
aqueous medium into single fibers, meanwhile forming a fibrous suspension slurry by mixing different
fiber raw materials, then transport the suspended slurry to a mesh-forming mechanism, and the fibers
are laid in a wet state to form a cloth.

Spunbond nonwovens

Spunbond-type of nonwoven fabric is processed as follows: extrude and stretch the polymer to form a
continuous filament, laid the filament into web, then process the web into nonwoven fabric through
their own bonding, thermal bonding, chemical bonding or mechanical reinforcement methods.

Meltblown nonwovens

Melt-blown nonwoven fabric is manufactured by extruding melted polymer fiber through a linear die
containing several hundred small holes to form long thin fibers which are stretched and cooled by
passing hot air as they fall from the linear die, then the resultant web is blown onto a collector screen
forming fined-filtered, self-bond nonwovens. Usually, this type of nonwoven fabric is added to
spunbond in order to form SM or SMS webs.

Acupuncture nonwovens

Acupuncture nonwoven is a type of dry nonwoven fabric. The fluffy fiber is reinforced into cloth by
needle puncture.

Stitch nonwovens

Stitched nonwoven is another type of dry nonwoven fabric. The manufacturing process uses a warp
knitted loop structure to reinforce the fiber web, yarn layer, non-woven materials (such as plastic
sheeting, plastic foil and etc.) or a combination thereof so as to form a nonwoven fabric.

Felt

Manufacturing process: Felt is manufactured either manually or by machine. Machine-made felt

manufacturing is described in the following. Fiber is subjected to two consecutive carding operations
and the two carding operations make the fibers parallel and of even thickness in the form of a fine web.

Several layers of web are built up until a sufficient amount of weight or thickness has accumulated. The
mass or batt (layer of web) is then cut and the edges trimmed to the desired width. The batts are usually
about 37m long, 150-230 cm width and their weights vary from 8-23 kg.

The batts are evenly sprinkled with warm water, pass over a steam box to warm the fabrics thoroughly
and then press between two rollers.
The top roller rests on the batt and with an oscillating motion exerts the pressure that combined with
moisture and heat produces the final felting action. Then they are allowed to draining and cooling off for
about 24 hours.

Application

Geo-Textiles: (Road construction, rail line Construction, River Bank Construction)

Mattress, foam, floor cover, composite.

Bonded non-woven fabric:

Nonwoven web formation methods are classified according to the form of raw materials chosen for the
specific application. Staple fiber and filaments are used to fabricate nonwoven webs.

Bonded Non-woven techniques are:

Dry-laid

Wet-laid

Polymer-melt/ spun-melt
The dry-laid web formation technique, such as fiber preparation, blending, carding, and garnering are
innovations of the textile industry. These processes prepare staple fibers, blend them, and layer the
fiber batt in a dry state. In dry-laid web formation, the fibers are collected into a web form by parallel
lapping, cross-lapping, or aerodynamic (air-laid) lap forming and then bonded by means of mechanical
needles, hydro-entanglement, chemical adhesives, and thermal bonding methods.

Raw material: Cotton fiber, synthetic Fiber, Viscose fiber, Short cotton fiber.

Application of dry-laid

Diapers

Baby wipes

Feminine Napkins

Tampons

Adult Incontinence Products

Medical textile

Wet-laid web formation: Wet-laid forming, which can be regarded as being analogous to conventional
papermaking processes but with use of chopped synthetic or staple fibers, continues to draw attention
as an advantageous way to prepare advanced nonwoven textile products. The wet-laid web forming
system is designed to fabricate short fibers dispersed in liquid, which are subsequently layered. The wet-
laid method is specifically suitable for the large scale production of disposable products, such as tea
bags, aprons, gloves, napkins, and surgical gauze.

Raw Material: A wide range of natural, wood pulp, mineral, synthetic and man-made fibers of varying
lengths can be used such as glass, polyester, polyamide, and regenerated fiber.

Applications: Filter paper, Tea Bag Fabric, Napkin, Surgical gauze.

Spun-melt non-woven fabric: Spun-melt is a generic term describing the manufacturing of nonwoven
webs directly from thermoplastic polymers. It encompasses 2 processes,

Spun-bond Non-woven

Melt-Blown Non-woven
Spun-laid (bonded) Non-woven: Polymer granules are extruded into filaments through so called
spinnerets. The continuous filaments are stretched and quenched before being deposited on conveyor
belt to form a uniform web. The spun-laid process results into nonwovens with an increased strength
compared to carding, due to the attenuation of the filaments. The downside is that the choice of raw
materials is more restricted. Co-extrusion of two components leads to bico fibers, either adding more
properties to the web or allowing air-through bonding. Please note that the word spunbond is reserved
for thermo bonded spun-laid.

Raw material: PP (polypropylene), Pet, Nylon, PE, Polyester. (Synthetic Thermoplastic Resin).

Manufacturing Process:
Application: Packaging (Shopping Bag), PPE for medical,

Melt-blown non-woven: Meltblown, like spun-laid, starts with extruding a low viscosity polymer. But
instead of quenching the filaments when they leave the spinneret, the filaments are being attenuated by
hot air streams, keeping the filaments in a partially molten state. This leads to much thinner filaments,
with low tensile strength. The filaments hit a belt or a conveyor belt where they form a web.

Raw material: Polypropylene (PP), polyamide (PA), Polyester, Polyethylene (PE).

Some of the processed polymers are:

Polypropylene is the most used polymer for melt-blown technology.

Polypropylene is easy to process and makes good web.

Polyethylene is more difficult to melt-blow into fine fibrous webs than is polypropylene.

Polyethylene is difficult to draw because of its melt elasticity.

PBT processes easily and produces very soft, fine-fibered webs.

Nylon 6 is easy to process and makes good webs.

Nylon 11 melt-blows well into webs that have very unusual leather-like feel.

Polycarbonate produces very soft-fiber webs.

Polystyrene produces an extremely soft, fluffy material with essentially no shot defect

Manufacturing process: The melt-blown technology is based on a melt blowing process, where, usually,
a thermoplastic fiber-forming polymer is extruded through a linear die containing several hundred small
orifices. Convergent streams of hot air rapidly attenuated extruded polymer streams to form extremely
fine fiber (1-5 micro-meter). The attenuated fibers subsequently blown by high viscosity air onto a
collector conveyor, thus forming a fine fibered self-bonded non-woven fabric.

Applications: Filter paper, N95 mask (as filter fabric), PP Gown, surgical mask, Napkin, Teabag fabric,
water filter.

Face Mask

Package

Teabag

Silica gel bag

Sanitary materials

Warm filling material

Filtering material

Diapers and sanitary pads

Mask

N95 mask: An N95 respirator is a respiratory protective device designed to achieve a very close facial fit
and very efficient filtration of airborne particles.

The ‘N95’ designation means that when subjected to careful testing, the respirator blocks at least 95
percent of very small (0.3 micron) test particles. If properly fitted, the filtration capabilities of N95
respirators exceed those of face masks. However, even a properly fitted N95 respirator does not
completely eliminate the risk of illness or death. Surgical N95 Respirators are commonly used in
healthcare settings and are a subset of N95 Filtering.

Manufacturing Technology: 5-layer Fabric.

Surgical mask: A surgical mask is a loose-fitting, disposable device that creates a physical barrier
between the mouth and nose of the wearer and potential contaminants in the immediate environment.
These are often referred to as face masks, although not all face masks are regulated as surgical masks.

It is tested for fluid resistance, filtration efficiency (particulate filtration efficiency and bacterial filtration
efficiency).

It should not be shared or reused.

Manufacturing technology:

Raw material: 3layer surgical mask make by SMS fabric.

Braided fabric :

Braiding is a simple form of narrow fabric construction. A braid is a rope like thing, which is made by
interweaving three or more stands, strips, or lengths in a diagonally overlapping pattern. Braiding is one
of the major fabrication methods for composite reinforcement structures. It is probably the simplest
way of fabric formation. Braiding is an ancient art with the origins in the braiding of hair, the tying of
knots, the braiding of ropes and cables. They have good elongation characteristics and are very pliable,
curving around edges nicely. Braided products have been traditionally used as decorative trimmings and
functional elastic components in apparel goods. Now, they are used for various industrial applications.
Braided fabrics are also used in demanding technical applications, such as for shielding wires from
electromagnetic interference or for absorbing very high impactful energy in the form of ropes, fishing
lines, parachute cords, etc., and also for satisfying fairly modest and less demanding functions in
household goods in the form of draw threads for curtains, wash lines, or even the ubiquitous shoelace.
Braiding is distinct from the other two classical textile processes, i.e, weaving and knitting, in (1) the
textile industry methods used to process yarns into a fabric and (2) in the characteristic fiber
architectures resulting from those methods. The principal difference between the braided and other
fabric-processing methods is that woven fabrics are formed by orthogonal interlacing of yarns and
knitted fabrics are formed by interlooping yarns, whereas conventional braiding forms nonorthogonal,
multidirectional (typically, two- or three-directional) fabrics without any loops.

The main characteristics of braid is-

1. Yarns are interlaced both diagonally and lengthwise.

2. Braid is stretchy and easily shaped.
3. Flat or three-dimensional braid is used for trim and industrial products.

Types Braided Fabrics:

Conventional braiding, which can be categorized into “one-dimensional” (1D) and “two-dimensional”
(2D) from a purely geometric point of view, is defined as a textile process of intertwining at least three
parallel strands (or yarns) of fiber to fabricate continuous, seamless textile structure with nonorthogonal
fiber orientation. Commonly, a shoe lace, rope, or cable are viewed as 1D braids, whereas a thin flat
sheet of fabric or thin-walled tube are viewed as 2D braids.

Now generally, braiding can be classified as two (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) braiding. Two-
dimensional (2D) braid structure can be circular/round/tubular or flat braid. Three-dimensional (3D)
braiding is relatively new and was developed mainly for composite structures. Three-dimensional (3D)
braided preforms provide unique structural features and performance characteristics to composites.
Among those are: full delamination suppression, improved damage tolerance, impact resistance, fatigue
life, exceptional torsional resistance, excellent bolt bearing strength, superior skin-stiffener pull-off
strength, etc. So, braids are divided into two types, considered as two dimensional.

Circular/round braids, tubular in form, which may be hollow or have a center core of some material.

Flat braids, in the form of strips or narrow flat tapes.

Types of Braided Structures

Braided textile structures are manufactured with mutual intertwining of yarns in a tubular form. There
are three typical braid structures: diamond, regular, and hercules. Diamond structure is obtained when
the yarns cross alternatively over and under the yarns of opposite direction. The repeat notation is 1/1.
Regarding this way of notation, the regular braid structure has notation 2/2 and hercules 3/3. The braids
are mostly produced in a regular structure. Generally braids are produced in a tubular form of biaxial
yarn direction.

Materials Used:
Braiding are produced from any of the textile fibers (cotton, jute, nylon, glass fiber, rubber
etc.), as well as from metal threads, tinsel, straw, wire or leather.

Manufacturing Principle:
The traditional circular braiding machine contains a series of bobbins of yarn mounted on a moving track
at the bottom of the machine. The braid is produced as the bobbins move in and out around the base of
the machine, much as Maypole dancer do. Interweaving yarns by braiding produces a flexible fabric; the
fabric can be stretched in one direction, but it contracts in the other. Using an even number of yarns
arranged around a circle allows production of tubular braids or ropes.

End Uses / Applications of Braided Fabrics:

Braided fabrics braiding is more significant for industrial fabrics than consumer textiles. Braiding is one
of the major fabrication methods for composite reinforcement structures, with increasing application of
electrical wires and cables, harnesses, hopes, industrial belts and surgical sutures. This principle of fabric
construction is used for making shaped articles, such as straw hats and small rugs; narrow fabrics, such
as ribbons and braids for millinery and accessory dress materials; cords and tapes, such as fish lines,
show laces, wicks, parachute cords and structural components for other industrial products.

Braided composites, once used for such applications as drive shafts, propeller blades, and sporting
equipment, are becoming popular again in recent years partly due to the development of large,
computer-controlled 2-D and 3-D braiders and partly due to the experience gained in using textile
composites in the aerospace and automotive industries. Braiding has the potential to produce
complex near-net shapes with fiber continuity at the edges and around holes and branches. However,
unlike other quasi-laminar composites, the unit cell geometry of a braided composite is controlled by
both the machine parameters and the component geometry.

Conclusion:
Thus braiding fabric forming mechanisms of braiding machine, it also forms by crochet knitting
machine, and needle looms. We hope in future, we can invent many new and modern braiding
processes and also formed braid fabric three-dimensional braid structure process. Although braiding as
a concept is intrinsically simpler than weaving or knitting processes and is also much less demanding
on the quality of feedstock, inherent limitations outlined in the foregoing as well as a lack of
understanding about the mechanics of the braiding zone has restricted its domain to a narrow range of
low-width, relatively low-quality products manufactured on low-productive systems.
যা দেখা বাকি আছে

Wool fabric : https://sewguide.com/types-of-wool-fabric/

Net Fabric : https://sewguide.com/different-types-of-net-fabric/

Cotton Fabric : https://sewguide.com/cotton-fabric/

Silk Fabric : https://sewguide.com/different-types-of-silk-fabric/

, Non woven , Braided fabric

Fabric GSM = gram per square meter ১ মিটার ফ্যাব্রিক এ ওজন কতটু কু ওজন বেশি হলে কাপড়টা মোটা আর কম
হলে হালকা ।
Lab - dips =
Quality =
Finishes =
Approval =

Apparel Related Industries:

1. Spinning Mill যেখানে তু লা থেকে সুতা তৈরী হয়

2 . Yarn Dyeing Mill রঞ্জন বিদ্যা সুতা রঙ করা হয়

2. Textile Mill : যেখানে সুতা থেকে ফ্যাব্রিক তৈরী করা হয় । woven fabric . length side is warm . width side is
weft .
3. Knitting Factory : যেখানে knit fabric তৈরী করা হয় । T shirt etc
4. Fabric dyeing factory : ফ্যাব্রিক রঙ করা হয়
5. Types of woven garments factory : T shirts, sports wear , lingerie

KPI

Drapping

Flat Pattern

Pattern in textile

Fabric processing

Yarn

Thread

Fabric