Cold emulsification with Sucrose esters

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Cold emulsification with Sucrose esters

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Introduction

Sisterna B.V.is a young and flexible organization that is solely active in the promotion and sales of
Sisterna® sucrose esters. Furthermore Sisterna has developed countless proven and innovative
applications of these natural and multifunctional emulsifiers for the cosmetic industry.

Sisterna® sucrose esters are based on sucrose and vegetable fatty acids and are a unique range of
high quality, non-ionic emulsifiers with an exceptional performance and mildness to skin and
eyes. Besides emulsification Sisterna® sucrose esters can offer other unique benefits to personal
care formulations.

Sisterna has developed various interesting emulsion concepts, such as our cold emulsification
concept, the subject of this paper.

Sisterna’s exclusive distributor network ensures the availability and technological knowhow of
sucrose esters in personal care applications in the Western Hemisphere.

Cold emulsification with Sucrose esters

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Summary

Cold process emulsifiers are becoming more and more popular as manufacturers search for extra
ways of reducing costs. A standard emulsion is generally a two-phase system: the aqueous phase
(W) and the oil phase (O) held together by using an emulsifier. The usual way of making a
cosmetic emulsion is by heating the two phases separately and bringing them together while
mixing at high speed. By the time the emulsion has cooled down enough, all the temperature
sensitive ingredients can be added. All in all a time and energy consuming business which
nowadays is less wanted. Unfortunately there are a limited number of suitable emulsifiers for cold
emulsification and those available are often restricted in all natural applications. And this is where
Sisterna® Sucrose Esters come in handy.

Benefits

The processing of O/W emulsions at room temperature has several significant benefits:

 Environmentally friendly: less energy consumption, thus less CO2-emission

 Economical: no heating and no cooling step
 Safety: cold emulsions are safer to prepare than heated ones
 Time saving: increase of production capacity - more can be done in the same
timeframe
 Easier process: cold processable ingredients
 No limitations towards temperature sensitive ingredients ( perfume, actives,
preservatives..)

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1. Investigation of cold emulsification concept

The objective of this study is to find out which parameters are influencing the formation and
stability of emulsions made via cold emulsification.

The following subjects are studied:

 Effect of sucrose ester type on
Droplet size
Viscosity
Skin feel
 Effect of oil type and concentration on
Droplet size
Viscosity
 Effect of working manufacturing procedure
Droplet size
Viscosity

Performed measurements:
 Viscosity is measured by using a Brookfield RVDV-I+, spindle RV5, 5 rpm
 Droplets size measurements are performed with a Malvern Mastersizer 3000
 Stability tests at 5, 20, 40 and 50°C for 3 months

1.1 Basic formulation

Ingredient INCI name A % w/w B % w/w C % w/w

1 Glycerin (99%) Glycerin 4.00

Deionized water Aqua Ad 100
Sisterna SP70-C Sucrose Stearate 3.00 - -
Sisterna PS750-C Sucrose Palmitate - - 3.00
Sisterna L70-C Aqua (and) Sucrose Laurate - 7.50 -
(and) Alcohol
Avicel PC611 Microcrystalline Cellulose 1.50
(FMC Biopolymer) (and) Cellulose Gum
Keltrol CG-FT Xanthan gum 0.30

2 Sunflower oil Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 20.00

IPM Isopropyl Miristate
Caprylic Capric Triglyceride Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

3 Euxyl K100 Benzyl Alcohol (and) 0.10

Methylchloroisothiazolinone
(and) Methylisothiazolinone

Cold emulsification with Sucrose esters

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 Production method

1. Avicel PC611 in water and shear 10 minutes with high shear mixer.
2. Add Xanthan gum to the water phase and stir until a homogeneous solution is obtained.
3. Add Sisterna® Sucrose ester (A, B or C) to the oil phase. (avoid air incorporation as much as
possible)
4. Add the oil phase to the water phase and shear for 3 minutes with a high shear mixer.
5. While shearing the preservative is added.

1.2 Tested sucrose ester grades

Name Abbreviation INCI HLB

Sisterna SP70-C SP70-C Sucrose Stearate 15
Sisterna PS750-C PS750-C Sucrose Palmitate 16
Sisterna L70-C L70-C Aqua (and) Sucrose Laurate (and) Alcohol 15

1.3 Results
1.3.1 Effect of sucrose ester type on

 Droplet size

Cold emulsions are prepared with the 3 tested high HLB sucrose esters in combination with
sunflower oil, Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) and Caprylic/Capric Trygliceride (CCT).

Graph 1: Influence of SE type. Oil type: sunflower oil

red: Sisterna SP70-C - green: Sisterna L70-C - blue: Sisterna PS750-C

The graphic shows that all tested sucrose esters give narrow droplet size emulsions. Smallest
droplets sizes are obtained with L70-C. SP70-C and PS750-C give similar droplet sizes. Both
SP70-C and PS750-C show a much broader particle size distribution curve, in fact two peaks
can be observed. Microscopic evaluation points out that the oil droplet sizes are represented
by the first peak. The second smaller peak is probably caused by insolubilized particles since
SP70-C and PS750-C will not entirely dissolve at room temperature. These particles are not
observed in the final emulsion.

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 Viscosity

Emulsions with L70-C have a much lower viscosity compared to the emulsions with SP70-C
and PS750-C. Highest viscosity is obtained with SP70-C. This is related to the fatty acid chain
length of the used sucrose ester, the longer the fatty acid chain, the higher the viscosity.

 Skin feel

SP70-C will provide a skin feel that is a bit more substantive compared to PS750-C while L70-C
provides the lightest skin feel.

1.3.2. Effect of oil type and concentration on

 Droplet size

Graph 2: Influence of oil type. SE type: Sisterna SP70-C 3%

red: sunflower oil - green: IPM - blue: capric/caprylic trigliceride

All tested oil types are effectively emulsified by SP70-C. Emulsions with sunflower oil show
slightly bigger droplet sizes compared to Caprylic/Capric Trygliceride (CCT) and Isopropyl
Myristate (IPM).

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Oil concentrations up to 60% were tested with 3% SP70-C

Graph3: Influence of oil concentration. SE: 3% Sisterna SP70-C. Oil type: sunflower oil

red: 20% oil - green 30% oil - blue 40% oil - purple 50% oil – bluegrey 60% oil

There is no significant influence of the oil concentration on the droplet size of the emulsion.
Up to 60% of oil can be emulsified with the same concentration of 3% sucrose ester SP70-C.

 Viscosity

The chart below shows the results of emulsions made with 3% of SP70-C and increasing levels
of oil concentrations.

As expected viscosity increases with increasing oil concentration, while droplet size is not
affected. When the viscosity of emulsions with the same type of emulsifier and the same oil
concentrations are compared, almost no difference in viscosity is measured between the
different oil types.

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 1.3.3. Effect of manufacturing procedure on droplet size and viscosity

Different ways of cold emulsification with 3% SP70-C and 7,5% L70-C without hydrocolloid are
tested:
 Adding SE into the water phase
 Adding SE into the oil phase
 One pot method

Viscosity in mPa.s Oil droplet size

Sucrose ester SP70-C L70-C SP70-C L70-C
in aqueous phase 12000 100 2,6 2,3
in oil phase 11000 100 2,4 2,2
1 pot method 12000 100 2,6 2,2

These different manufacturing procedures seem to have little to no influence on the

emulsifying properties of the SE. Viscosity and droplet size are comparable.

L70-C provides the lowest viscosity, SP70-C will provide the highest viscosity. This viscosity
effect is related to the fatty acid chain length of the used sucrose ester. Too low viscosity may
result in creaming issues over time. This can be avoided by adding a stabilizing system into the
water phase. The use of hydrocolloids will increase viscosity of the external phase. Working
only with Xanthan gum however may not suffice, a combination of Avicel PC611
(Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum) and Xanthan gum will provide the best results.

Conclusion

All Sisterna® Sucrose esters with higher mono ester values can be used in cold production to
obtain stable emulsions. Sisterna L70-C is the easiest the emulsify, forming emulsions with the
smallest droplet sizes and the lowest viscosity. When a higher viscosity is needed the best solution
will be Sisterna SP70-C. However the differences in viscosity, droplet size and stability between
emulsions stabilized with PS750-C or SP70-C are small. Here SP70-C will provide the most
substantive skin feel.

A concentration of 3% SP70-C is sufficient to emulsify up to 60% of oil into the emulsion.

The addition of a good stabilizing system is also important when working via cold emulsification
step. Long term stability against creaming is realized by the use of hydrocolloids to increase
viscosity of the external phase. The combination of Avicel PC611 and Xanthan gum will provide
the best results.

Contact
Send an e-mail to: info@sisterna.com or visit our website www.sisterna.com.

Sisterna B.V.
Belder 30A
4704 RK Roosendaal, The Netherlands
T+31 165524730
The information and recommendations in this publication are to the best of our knowledge, information and belief accurate at the
date of publication. Nothing herein is to be construed as warranty expressed or implied. In all cases it is the responsibility of users to
determine the applicability of such information or the suitability of any products for their own particular purpose.

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