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Gasoline Engine Tune - Up
Gasoline Engine Tune - Up
The purpose of a gasoline engine is to convert gasoline into motion so that the vehicle can
move. Currently the easiest way to create motion from gasoline is to burn the gasoline inside an
engine. Therefore, an engine is an internal combustion engine -- combustion takes place internally.
In this module you will identify gasoline engine troubles and perform tune up. You will be
performing activities to develop your skill in checking/adjusting valve clearance; inspecting/testing
and replacing spark plugs; checking/replacing fuel filter and air cleaner; inspecting/replacing
contact point condenser; testing/adjusting dwell angle and ignition setting; adjusting engine idle
speed and mixture; checking advance mechanism and adjusting ignition timing; and conducting
compression test.
You will also review underpinning knowledge such as types of lubricants and fluids;
automotive systems; equipment safety requirements; relevant company policies; personal safety
requirements; manual handling techniques; cleaning method and materials; principle of engine
operation; servicing inspection checklist; and Positive work values (honesty, perseverance,
attention to details).
After doing the learning activities in this module you will be assessed by your instructor on
tuning up gasoline engine.
LEARNING OUTCOMES
Upon completion of this module you should be able to:
1. Identify and explain the functions of tune-up equipment and enumerate the major steps in
tuning-up an engine;
2. Measure/adjust valve tappet clearance;
3. Test spark plug;
4. Check/replace fuel and air filter;
5. Test and replace ignition breaker;
6. Check and adjust distributor setting;
7. Set fuel mixture and idle rpm; and
8. Perform compression testing.
INTRODUCTION
LESSON 1
IDENTIFY AND EXPLAIN THE FUNCTIONS OF TUNE-UP
EQUIPMENT AND ENUMERATE THE MAJOR STEPS IN TUNING-
UP AN ENGINE
Engine tuning is the adjustment or modification of the internal combustion engine or Engine
Control Unit (ECU) to yield optimal performance and increase the engine's power output, economy, or
durability. These goals may be mutually exclusive; an engine may be de-tuned with respect to output
power in exchange for better economy or longer engine life due to lessened stress on engine
components
Information Sheet LO1-1: Overview of Internal Combustion Engine
Engine Construction
Most engines have two holes, or ports in the upper enclosed end of the cylinders.
(Some engines have more than two ports.) One port is the intake port. The other is the
exhaust port. The two ports are open only part of the time. The rest of the time they are
closed by the intake and exhaust valves. The valves are plugs with long stems that open
and close the ports in the cylinder head. When an valve moves up into its port, the valve
seals tightly against a valve seat. In this position, the valve is closed, sealing the port.
When a valve is pushed down off its seat, the port is open. Then the air-fuel mixture or
exhaust gas can pass through the port. The opening and closing of the valves are
controlled by the valve train.
Figure LO1-1.9 The four piston strokes. (A) Intake stroke. The intake valve (at left) has
opened. The piston is moving downward, allowing the air-fuel mixture to enter the cylinder.
(B) Compression stroke. The intake valve has closed. The piston is moving upward,
compressing the mixture. (C) Power stroke. The ignition system has delivered a spark to
the spark plug that ignites the compressed mixture. As the mixture burns, it creates a high
pressure that pushes the piston down. (D) Exhaust stroke. The exhaust valve has opened.
The piston moves upward as the burned gases escape from the cylinder.
Valve Action
Multiple-Cylinder Engine
Even when the power impulses overlap, the flow of power from the pistons to the
crankshaft is not smooth. Each power stroke delivers a sudden power impulse to the
crankshaft. This causes the crankshaft to try to speed up. During the other three piston
strokes, the crankshaft tries to slow down. A weight on each end of the crankshaft, a
damper on the front and a flywheel on the rear helps keep it running smoothly.
Figure LO1-1.12 Crankshaft and related parts for an inline six-cylinder engine. The
flywheel is to the right. (Ford Motor Company)
On vehicles with a manual transmission, the heavy metal flywheel helps smooth out the
power flow. It resists any sudden change in the crankshaft’s speed of rotation. Vehicles
with an automatic transmission or transaxle have a light drive plate (or flex plate) with a
fluid-filled torque converter attached to the crankshaft. This acts the same way as the
flywheel to smooth the power flow. The flywheel also serves as the driving member of the
clutch in cars with a manual transmission. In addition, the flywheel (and also the drive
plate) has a ring of teeth on its outer rim. A small pinion gear on the starting motor
meshes with these ring-gear teeth when the starting motor operates. This rotates the
flywheel and crankshaft to start the engine.
Information Sheet LO1-2: Identifying Engine Testing Equipment
Quick and accurate diagnosis and service of the engine require the use of various test
instruments and gauges. These will show if the battery, starting, charging, fuel ignition
and emissions systems are operating properly. They would also indicate the mechanical
condition of the engine.
The magnetic tachometer is usually combined with the magnetic timing tester. It uses a probe
inserted in the engine probe hole. The probe reacts to a mark on the crankshaft pulley or to a
pulse ring or location indicator on the crankshaft. On an engine with electronic engine control
system (EEC), engine-speed data is available through the diagnostic connector. A scan tool or
a computerized engine analyzer can display the rpm.
In electronic ignition
systems, the ECM controls
dwell. It is not adjustable.
The dwellmeter is used to
check the duty cycle of the
mixture-control solenoid in
a feedback carburetor.
A dwell-tach meter is a
single meter that serves as
both a dwellmeter and a
tachometer. This is
possible because both
meters have two leads and
require the same connections. Pushing a
button or turning a knob on the meter
switches the reading from rpm to dwell.
The spark plugs must be removed to use the compression tester. Before removing the
spark plugs, be sure the engine is at normal operating temperature and the battery is
fully charged. Use compressed air to blow any dirt out of the spark-plug wells. Another
way is to disconnect the cables, loosen the spark plugs about one turn and reconnect the
cables. Then start the engine. Run the engine for a few seconds at 1000 rpm. The
leaking combustion gases will blow the dirt out of the plug wells.
Remove the spark plugs. Block the throttle wide-open so the maximum amount of air
enters the cylinders. Thread the compression- tester adapter into the spark-plug hole of
number 1 cylinder. Disable the ignition to prevent coil damage from high-voltage arcing.
Note: Different steps are necessary to disable various ignition systems. On many engines with
a separate ignition coil, disconnect the primary lead from the negative terminal of the coil.
Some General Motor engines have high-energy ignition (HEI) with the coil in the cap.
Disable these by disconnecting the larger red wire from the distributor. To disable a
distributorless ignition system, disconnect the wiring-harness connector between the
ECM and the ignition module.
Disable the electric fuel pump. Operate the starting motor to crank the engine through
four compression strokes (eight crankshaft revolutions). The needle on the
compression gauge will move around to show the maximum pressure in the cylinder.
Write down this figure. Then test the other cylinders.
Engine compression reading are usually considered normal if the lowest reading is 75
percent or more of the highest. For example, if one cylinder in an engine has a
compression pressure of 120 psi (828 kPa), then all cylinders should have
compression readings of 90 psi (621 kPa) or higher. Typical compression pressures
vary among engines and manufacturers. In many General Motors engines, no
cylinder should have a compression pressure of less than 100 psi (690 kPa). Toyota
specifies a maximum compression pressure of 142 psi (990 kPa) in some engines.
The following section describes interpreting the results of the compression test.
Engine compression readings are usually considered normal if the lowest reading is 75
percent or more of the highest. For example, if one cylinder in an engine has a
compression pressure of 120 psi (828 kPa), then all cylinders should have compression
readings of 90 psi (621 kPa) or higher. Typical compression pressures vary among
engines and manufacturers. In many General Motors engines, no cylinder should have
a compression pressure of less than 100 psi (690 kPa). Toyota specifies a
maximum compression pressure of 142 psi (990 kPa) in some engines. The
following section describes interpreting the results of the compression test.
The manufacturer’s specification show what the compression pressures should be. If
compression is low, there is leakage past the piston rings, valves or cylinder-head
gasket. If the readings vary, how they vary may indicate the cause of the problem.
Caution: Never perform a wet compression test on a diesel engine. The heat of a compression could
ignite the oil and damage the compression tester. Also, since the oil is not compressible, it
could fill the combustion chamber and create a hydrostatic lock. This prevents the crankshaft
from turning and may damage the engine.
Compression Gauge Possible Engine
If the compression pressure Reading Condition
increases to a more normal value, Fails to climb during Valve sticking open
the low compression probably is due all compression
to leakage past worn piston rings. strokes
Adding oil helps seal the rings 20 PSI (138 kPa) Faulty rings or valve
temporarily as the cylinder holds below normal seating
compression better. Other possible More than 20 PSI (138 Faulty head gasket
causes are a worn piston or cylinder kPa) below normal in
wall, and rings that are broken or two cylinders next to
each other
stuck in their piston-ring grooves.
20 PSI (138 kPa) Excessive carbon
If adding oil does not increase above normal buildup in
combustion
compression pressure, the
chamber
leakage may be past the valves.
Possible causes include: Figure LO1-2.4 Compression-gauge readings and
the probable engine conditions. (Ford Motor
Company)
A blown head gasket also causes a low reading during a wet compression test. The
gasket has burned away and compression pressure leaks between the cylinder
block and head. Low or no compression in two adjacent cylinders is probably due to
a blown head gasket between the two cylinders.
b. Disconnect the air cleaner. Figure LO1-2.5 Cylinder leakage tester. The
c. Remove the oil-filter cap or dipstick. whistle is used to locate TDC in number 1
d. Remove the radiator cap and fill cylinder. (Sun Electric Corporation)
the radiator to the proper level.
e. Block the throttle-wide-open.
f. Connect the adapter, with the whistle, to the spark plug hole of number 1 cylinder.
g. Crank the engine until the whistle sounds. This means number 1 piston is moving
up on the compression stroke.
h. Continue rotating the crankshaft until the TDC timing marks align.
i. Then disconnect the whistle from the adapter hose and connect the tester.
j. Apply air pressure into the cylinder. Note the gauge reading, which shows the
percentage of air leaking from the cylinder. Specifications vary, but a reading
of above 20 percent means excessive leakage.
k. Listen at the air intake, tail pipe, and oil-filter hole. If air blows-out of an adjoining
spark-plug hole, the head gasket is blown between the cylinders. If air bubbles up
through the radiator, the trouble is a blown head gasket or a cracked cylinder block
or head. Any of these conditions may allow leakage from the cylinder into the
cooling system.
Note: Inches or millimeters of mercury refers to the way the vacuum is measured. There is
no mercury in the gauge. The readings compare with the changes that a vacuum
would produce on a column of mercury in a barometer. Figure 9 shows the
relationship among the various measurements of vacuum and pressure.
Reading Diagnosis
Average and Everything is
b. A steady and low reading on idle
indicates less ignition or valve steady at 17-
timing, or possibly leakage past the normal.
22.
piston rings. This excessive blowby
could be due to worn or stuck piston
rings, or worn cylinder walls or Air leak at the
pistons. Any of these reduces Extremely low intake
engine power. With less power, the reading— manifold or
needle holds throttle body;
engine does not develop or “pull” steady. incorrect
as much vacuum. timing.
Idle mixture
c. A steady and very low reading on Needle needs
idle indicates the air leak at the adjustment,
fluctuating
intake manifold or throttle body. between high
spark-plug
The leak could be around the gap too
and low
narrow,
throttle shaft. Air leakage into the reading.
valves
intake manifold reduces vacuum sticking open.
and engine power. Incorrect timing Idle mixture
may also cause this condition. Needle needle
adjustment,
fluctuates very
Note: Some engines with high-lift cams and spark-plug
slowly,
longer valve overlap have a lower and more gap too
ranging 4 or 5
uneven intake manifold vacuum. Also, some narrow,
points.
emission-control systems lower intake- valves
manifold vacuum. sticking open.
Needle
d. A reading that varies rapidly— fluctuating Worn valve
increasing with engine speed— rapidly at
idle—steadies guides
between 10 and 22 inches (254 as RPM is
and 599 mm) indicates a weak or increased
broken valve spring. Needle drops
to low reading, Burned or
e. A reading that drops back to zero as resume to
engine speed increases indicates a normal , drops leaking
restricted exhaust system. back, etc., at a valves.
regular
interval.
f. Regular dropping back of the Needle drops Restricted
needle indicates a valve that is
burned or sticking open, or a spark to zero as
exhaust
plug not firing. engine RPM is
system.
increased.
g. Irregular dropping back of the
needle indicates valves that are Needle holds Late ignition
sticking open only part of the time.
h. Floating motion or slow back-and-
forth movement of the needle steady at 12 to or valve
indicates that the air-fuel mixture 16—drops to 0 timing,
and back to leaking piston
is too rich. about 21 as rings. Check
throttle is with
On some engines, a vacuum-gauge quick opened and compression
test can be made fro loss of compression released. test.
due to leakage around the piston. This
would result from worn piston rings,
pistons, or cylinder walls. Race the engine
and then quickly release the throttle. The Figure LO1-2.8 Vacuum-gauge readings and their
needle should swing around to 23 to 25 meanings.
inches (584 to 635 mm) as the throttle
closes. This indicates good compression.
If the needle fails to swing this far, there is
compression loss.
Note: Some V-type engines have a split intake manifold with no passage between the two sections.
On these engines, connect the vacuum gauge to each section and note the readings.
Another test using the vacuum pump is the cranking vacuum test. With the engine at
normal operating temperature, close the throttle valve and plug the PCV line.
Disable the ignition and crank the engine. An even cranking vacuum at normal
cranking speed indicates the engine is mechanically sound. Unevenness in the
needle movement indicates an air leak in one or more cylinders.
A different kind of tester measures NOx but it works in almost the same way. It draws
exhaust gas from the tail pipe and runs the gas through the analyzer. The finding is
reported in grams per mile. NO testers are usually only in testing laboratories. They
are not normally in automotive-service work.
When testing exhaust emissions, follow the tester-manufacturer’s operating
instructions. Figure LO1-2.11 shows suggested testing specifications. Take the
readings with the engine idling at normal operating temperature. Repeat the tests with
the engine running at 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm.
Note: An exhaust gas analyzer can also be used to check for exhaust-gas leakage
into the cooling system. Figure LO1-2.11 shows the exhaust-gas analyzer being
used to locate fuel or fuel-vapor leaks.
O2 Readings. These measure the percentage of oxygen remaining in the exhaust gas
after combustion has occurred. The air we breathe is about 21 percent oxygen. At idle,
the engine should produce less than three percent O2. If the engine is running richer
than 14.7:1, O2 is low. As the air-fuel mixture becomes leaner than 14.7:1, O2
increases. When lean mixture occurs, O2 increases greatly.
8. Cylinder-Balance Test – The cylinder –
balance test determines if each cylinder
in a running engine produces the same
amount of power. Disabling a cylinder
should cause a change in engine
speed. The change should be about
the same for all cylinders.
On some engines the ECM can run the cylinder-balance test automatically and store
the results. The technician signals the ECM to begin the test. The ECM then turns off
the fuel injector to each cylinder and measures engine rpm. This process repeats until
testing is completed.
Figure LO1-2.15. Computerized engine analyzer with two scope screens and a
printer. (Sun Electric Corporation)
10. Service-Bay Diagnostic Computer – Some new-car dealerships and other service-
bay diagnostic computer in Figure 15. This is a computerized engine-and-exhaust
gas analyzer with additional capabilities. Ideally, the system enables the vehicle to
tell the computer what is wrong. Then the system instructs the technician on how to
make the needed repairs.
Many of these computers have a touch-sensitive screen. The technician first enters
the vehicle identification number then the technician answers a series of yes-no
questions about how the vehicle is equipped. The technician connects the computer
to the diagnostic connector on the vehicle. The computer then:
1. Automatically performs the test.
2. Interprets the results.
3. Shows the technician how to correct the faults.
In a dealership, the computer may automatically go online every night. This means
the computer connects itself through a phone line or satellite link to the vehicle-
manufacturer’s host computer. The host computer then sends or downloads the
latest information on:
• Factory product changes
• Diagnosis and repair techniques
• Vehicle specifications
• Service manual information
• Service bulletin summaries
During this same connection, the dealership computer sends or uploads information
fed into it during the day to the host computer. This provides overnight data exchange
of the latest service information between the dealer and the manufacturer. Similar
systems are available to independent shops. To provide the capabilities listed above,
the computer must store a wide range of service information. This information must be
quickly accessible and easily updated. Many computers store data on a compact disc
(CD), similar to the audio CD. When new information is needed, the technician
replaces the disc.
11. Dynamometer – the chassis dynamometer measures engine power and vehicle
speed under various operating conditions. The vehicle is driven onto two rollers so
the drive wheels can spin the rollers. The rollers drive a power absorber which is
usually under the floor. The vehicle remains stationary, but the engine and other
components operate the same as on a road test. Meters on a console report wheel
speed and torque or power.
The power absorber may be a heavy metal flywheel with an inertia weight, the same
as the weight of the vehicle. Or the power absorber may be a brake that places a
variable load on the rollers. The technician can connect an oscilloscope and a variety
of other testers to check the engine under operating conditions. When the vehicle is
driven on the dynamometer, the test instruments show engine performance while
idling, accelerating, cruising and decelerating. Shift points and other operating
conditions of an automatic transmission can also be checked.
Special dynamometers with two sets of rollers test all-wheel-drive vehicles. Diagnostic
dynamometers have sensitive motored rollers that may allow testing of wheel
alignment, suspension, steering and brakes.
Engine Tune-up and Car Care
Definition of a tune-up
An engine tune-up restores drivability, power, performance and economy that have
been lost through wear, corrosion and deterioration of engine parts. These changes take
place gradually in many parts through time and mileage. This means the parts are
affected by normal aging of the vehicle (time) and by normal vehicle operation (mileage).
A tune-up means different things to different people. To some, it means a quick check of
the usual engine trouble spots. To others, it means using test instruments to do a
complete analysis of the engine and its systems. Then all worn parts are repaired or
replaced and everything is adjusted to specifications.
Tune-up Procedure:
An engine tune-up follows a procedure. Many technicians use a printed form supplied
by automotive or test-equipment manufacturers. By following the form and checking off
the items listed, one by one, the technician avoid overlooking any test in the procedure.
All tune -up forms are not the same. The procedure to follow depends on the vehicle
and the engine as well as the shop equipment available. If the shop has an oscilloscope
or a dynamometer, use it as part of the tune-up procedure.
The steps in a typical tune-up procedure are given below. All steps do not apply to
all vehicles or to all engines.
1. Test and service the battery and starting motor. If the battery is low or the
customer complains that the battery keeps running down, check the charging
system. If the battery is defective. Install a new battery.
2. Inspect the drive belts. Replace any that are in poor condition. Replace both belts
in a two-V-belt set. Tighten the belts to the specified tension using a belt tension
gauge.
3. If the engine is cold, operate it for at least 20 minutes at 1500 rpm or until the engine
reaches normal operating temperature. Note any problems during warm-up.
4. Connect the engine analyzer or oscilloscope and perform an electrical diagnosis.
Check for any abnormal ignition-system condition and the cylinder in which it occurs.
6. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the firing ends. Gap and install new spark
plugs. If reinstalling the old spark plugs, first clean, inspect, file, gap, and test them.
7. Inspect the ignition system. Look for the cause of any abnormal conditions seen
with the engine analyzer or oscilloscope. Check the condition of the distributor
cap, rotor and primary and secondary wiring. Replace any defective parts. On
contact-point ignition systems, clean and adjust (or replace) the contact points.
Lubricate the distributor cam. Check the centrifugal and vacuum advance devices.
Adjust the ignition timing.
8. Recheck the ignition system with the oscilloscope. Any abnormal condition
noted earlier should now be gone.
9. Check the manifold heat-control valve. If used, it should move freely. Lubricate
it with heat-control-valve lubricant. Free or replace the valve, if necessary.
10. Test the fuel pump with a fuel-pump tester. Replace the fuel filter. Check the
fuel-tank cap, fuel lines and connections for leakage and damage.
11. Clean or replace the air-cleaner filter. If the engine has a thermostatic air
cleaner, check the operation of the vacuum motor.
12. Check the action of the throttle valves. Push the accelerator pedal to the floor to
be sure the throttle valves open fully. Check carburetor choke and fast-idle
systems, if used. Clean external linkages and check for binding.
13. Inspect all engine vacuum fittings, hoses and connections. Replace any brittle
or cracked hoses.
14. Clean the engine oil-filler cap, Inspect the conditions of its gasket or seal.
15. Check the cooling system. If necessary, fill it to the proper level with the specified
coolant. Check that the coolant contains the proper amount of antifreeze for adequate
freeze protection. Drain and install fresh coolant, if required by the vehicle
maintenance schedule. Inspect all hoses, connections, radiator, water pump and fan
clutch or electric fan. Pressure-check the cooling system and radiator cap. Squeeze
the hoses to check their condition. Replace any defective hoses or other parts.
16. Inspect the PCV system. Check and replace the PCV valve if necessary. Clean
and replace the PCV-system air filter if required. Inspect the PCV hoses and
connections. Replace any cracked or brittle hoses. Test the system for crankcase
vacuum.
17. If the engine has an air-injection pump, replace the pump inlet-air filter, if used.
Inspect the system hoses and connections. Replace any brittle or cracked hoses.
18. If the evaporative-control system uses an air filter in the charcoal canister,
replace the filter.
19. Check the transmission-controlled spark (TCS) system, if the vehicle is so equipped.
20. Inspect the EGR valve. Clean or replace it, as required. Inspect and clean the
EGR discharge port. Test system operation by applying vacuum to the valve with
the engine idling. The engine should run rough with vacuum applied then smooth
out with no vacuum.
22. Adjust the engine idle speed. Check the amount of HC and CO in the exhaust
gas. (Checking the HC and CO both before and after tune-up shows how much
the tune-up has reduced these pollutants.) If required, adjust the idle mixture
(where possible). Follow the procedure outlined on the VECI label in the engine
compartment.
23. If the engine has a turbocharger, check the wastegate operation. Follow
the procedure in the vehicle service manual.
24. Tighten the intake-manifold and exhaust-manifold bolts to the specified torque in
the proper sequence.
25. Check the maintenance sticker or the lubrication schedule to see if an oil and
oil-filter change are due. Also note the schedule for chassis lubrication.
Recommend the services due to the vehicle owner.
26. While the car is on the lift, check the exhaust system for leaks. These could
admit deadly carbon monoxide (CO) into the passenger compartment. Also look
for loose bolts, rust spots and heat-shield and other under-car damage.
27. Road-test the car on a dynamometer or on the road. Check for driveability, power
and idling. Any abnormal condition now may require additional checking and
service to other parts or systems. Always note any uncorrected abnormal
condition on the repair order before returning the car to the customer. If possible,
explain the notes on the repair order to the customer. Conditions that affect
emissions, fuel economy, reliability and safety may need immediate attention.
1. Before road-testing the car, check the tires for specified inflation pressure and
for abnormal wear. Abnormal wear would mean suspension trouble and the
need for wheel alignment.
2. Check for proper operation of the instruments-panel warning lights, gauges,
and information displays.
5. Check the suspension system for looseness, excessive play and wear. Check
the front-suspension ball joints for excessive wear. Check for loose wheel
bearings at the non-driving wheels. Adjust the wheel bearings if necessary.
6. Check the CV joints for noise and smooth operation. If a CV-joint boot is torn,
check for grit in the grease and for joint wear.
7. Check the operation of the clutch and manual transmission or transaxle. Note the
shift timing and shift quality in a vehicle with an automatic transmission or transaxle.
8. Note any unusual noise, vibrations or hardness heard or felt during the road test.
9. Check the headlights and horns to make sure they work. Check all other
lights. Replace burned-out bulbs. Check headlights aim, if necessary.
The preceding list of steps for tune-up and car care covers conditions that frequently
need service or cause trouble. When performed as a complete procedure, These
steps will locate many abnormal conditions that affect drivability and performance.
Correcting these conditions will improve vehicle performance and reliability.
Activity 1
Multiple-Choice Test
a. engine torque
b. engine rpm
c. engine compression
d. engine vacuum
2. After the engine is at normal operating temperature, the first step in using
the compression tester is to:
a. disconnect the battery
b. adjust engine idle
c. remove the spark plugs
d. shift the transmission into low gear
3. The purpose of squirting a small amount of oil through the spark-plug hole
while compression-testing the cylinder is to
4. If squirting engine oil through the spark-plug hole does not increase
compression pressure, all the following could be the cause except
a. A only
b. B only
c. both A and B
d. neither A nor B
6. The cylinder leakage tester applies air pressure to the cylinder with the piston
a. stuck valves
b. low compression
c. good compression
d. leaky valves
8. A steady but low vacuum reading with no engine idling indicates that the engine
a. is losing power
b. has a stuck valve
c. exhaust system is restricted
d. ignition timing is advanced
a. A only
b. B only
c. both A and B
d. neither A nor B
Activity 2:
Answer the following questions.
3. What is the use of a chassis dynamometer and what can its use tell the technician?
5. What record should the technician make of any abnormal condition found during
the road test?