One-Piece Dinosaur - Crochet Amigurumi Pattern: What You Need

One-piece Dinosaur – Crochet Amigurumi Pattern
This pattern is written with

American (US) crochet terms
This brontosaurus is made in

amigurumi crochet technique, this
is a one-piece toy, no sewing.
The work is done in rounds,
without connecting stitches
between the rounds, in one
direction, on the Right Side of the
toy.
Measurements and materials

used:
About 12.5 inches (32cm) tall in
the pictured position, or about 22
inches (56cm) long from the head
to the end of the tail if stretched in
a line –
I used crochet hook G/6 –
4.25mm and “Loops & Threads
Impeccable Yarn”
in ‘Gold’
Contents: 100% acrylic
Skein Weight: 4.5 oz. /127.5 g
Yardage: 285 yd. / 260 m
What you need :

* About 2-2.2 oz (56-60g)
of Worsted Weight/ Category4/Aran/10 ply yarn
* fiber fill (I use polyester hypo allergenic fiber);
I recommend polyester filling – that is what I use for stuffing toys – it is hypoallergenic,
it does not lose shape after washing (unlike cotton wool);
* black embroidery floss and sewing needle for the eyes;
* stitch markers – I do not use them, instead I use yarn of contrasting color (thinner than the yarn I
crochet with); I attach at the last stitch of each round and keep threading each last stitch as the work
progresses
Crochet hooks: I used crochet hook 4.25mm (USA – G/6) for Worsted Weight/ Category4/Aran/10
ply yarn. You might want to use different hook – everyone's style is different; the aim here is to make
tight stitches, so the fill fiber does not show through.
© 2018 Elena's Times – Crochet Toys Patterns – Crochet Amigurumi One-piece Dinosaur
ABBREVIATIONS
Rnd(s) = round(s) yo = yarn over st(s) = stitch(es)
ch = chain stitch sl st = slip stitch sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet dc = double crochet
dec = stitch decrease inc = stitch increase
Pattern explanation:
inc (sc inc) = increase one single crochet stitch – crochet two single crochet stitches in one stitch of
previous row.
dec (sc dec) = decrease one single crochet stitch – invisible stitch decrease – insert the hook in the
front loop of the next stitch, do not yarn over, insert the hook in the front loop of the next stitch (3
loops on the hook), yarn over and draw the yarn through the first 2 loops (2 loops on the hook), yarn
over and draw through both loops on the hook. When appears without a number, dec stands for one
stitch decrease; a number after this symbol indicates how many times decrease has to be made.
Note: Sometimes it is more convenient to skip one stitch where it is indicated “dec”: for example,
when making parts with small number of stitches.
The number at the end of round is the number of stitches in the round (row).
For example,
sc5 means: crochet single crochet stitch in each of the next 5 stitches of previous row (round);
{ sc3, inc } x 6 (30) means: crochet one single crochet stitch in each of the next three stitches of
previous row, then increase one stitch by working two single crochet stitches in next (fourth) stitch;
repeat between { } 6 times around; the number of stitches in this round is 30.
inc x 6 means : crochet 2 single crochet stitches in each one of the next 6 stitches of the previous row.
Closing up a piece: When you have 6 (or 5 or sometimes 7) stitches left, cut the yarn and pull it out of
the last loop. Insert the hook in the front loop of the next stitch (going in clockwise direction), the hook
is pointing away from the center of the opening, yarn over and pull the yarn through this front loop;
insert the hook in the next front loop, yarn over, pull the yarn through this loop and insert the hook in
the next front loop, continue until you pull the yarn through all 6 front loops. Insert the hook into the
piece you are closing (several stitches away from the opening) and bring it out of the opening, yarn
over and pull the yarn out of the spot where you inserted the hook; pull the yarn end to tighten, tuck the
end into the piece.
Shifting the end/beginning of rounds. In several rounds one or more stitches are added after
completing those rounds, but there is no increase in the number of stitches, this is done to shift the end
of the round, for symmetry or convenience in the stitch count.
One way to begin crocheting in the round – Magic Ring.
To make Magic Ring: wrap yarn around your left index

finger (hold the short yarn end in place by pressing it
with your thumb) – the white arrows point at the short
yarn end, and the red arrow points at the long end,
insert the hook into the loop and pull out a loop as shown below, on the left; hold the initial loop and
the short end with your thumb against the middle finger; yarn over and pull through the little loop, as
shown in the right picture (this loop – the red arrow is pointing at it – does not count as a stitch).
After that, insert the hook through the big middle

ring and make single crochet stitches for the first
row – in this picture you see 4 single crochet
stitches.
After completing the first round, pull on the short

yarn end to tighten the hole in the center.
Another way to begin most pieces –
perhaps more easy – make the first
loop from the short end of yarn, then
make 2 chain stitches ( the loop on the
hook does not count), crochet 6 sc sts
(sometimes the number is 4 or 5 or 7)
into the second from the hook loop
(which is the very first loop you
made); crochet the first st of the
second round in the first st of the first
round (the pink arrow); pull the short
yarn end tight, so there is no hole in the center.
Crochet stitches conversion chart
American crochet terms UK crochet terms
ch – chain ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet dc – double crochet
hds – half double crochet htr – half treble crochet
dc – double crochet tr – treble crochet
tr – treble crochet dtr – double treble crochet
Crochet instructions
Following the round-by-round descriptions, there are pictures to help you with the tricky parts.
First we make the legs, then the belly, and then connect the belly and legs into the round.
Leg x 4
Rnd 1: ch2, crochet 7 sc sts in second from hook st (7)
Rnd 2: inc x 7 (14)
Rnd 3-5: sc around (14)
Rnd 6: sc9, dec, sc3 (13)
Rnd 8: sc7, dec, dec, sc1 (10), cut the yarn leaving about 4 in (10cm) of tail; with the hook, draw the
tail through the loop on the hook, remove the hook and pull on the tail to tighten; stuff half of the leg
Belly
Rnd 1: ch5, crochet 2 sc sts in second from hook ch st, sc st in each of next 2 ch sts, 3 sc sts in last ch
st; continue on the opposite side of the chain: crochet sc st in next 3 ch sts (10)
Rnd 2: inc x 2, sc2, inc x 3, sc2, inc (16)
Rnd 3: {sc1, inc} x 2, sc2, {sc1, inc} x 3, sc3, inc (22)

Rnd 4: {sc2, inc} x 2, sc2, {sc2, inc} x 3, sc3, inc (28) – notice that you crochet only 27 stitches in
this round – one stitch short of the full round, but the number of the stitches in the round is 28;
do not remove the hook from the loop, now we begin attaching the legs:
Rnd 5: 7 sc sts around one leg, skip 3 sts of the belly, sc st in next belly st, inc in next belly st,
7 sc sts on next leg only, skip 3 sts of the belly, 6 sc sts on the belly only,
7 sc sts on next leg only, skip 3 sts of the belly, sc st in next belly st , inc in next belly st,
7 sc sts on next leg only, skip 3 sts of the belly, 6 sc sts on the belly only;
enlarge the last loop (to secure the work, so the stitches do not get undone), and connect the open
stitches of the belly and legs – in corresponding pairs, using the leg yarn ends, see pictures below;
then continue to crochet the body:
Rnd 6: sc7, inc, sc1, inc, sc36 (48)

Rnd 7: sc8, inc, sc2, inc, sc36 (50)
Rnd 8 – making the opening for the tail: sc8, inc, sc4, inc, sc18, ch9, skip8, sc10 (44 sc sts + 9 ch sts)
Rnd 9: sc around (53), add more stuffing to the legs

Rnd 10: sc10, inc, sc3, inc, sc23, dec, sc13 (54)
Rnd 11: sc around (54)
Rnd 12: sc11, inc, sc3, inc, sc19, dec, sc7, dec, sc8 (54)
Rnd 14: sc41, dec, sc11 (53)
Stop working on the body and make the tail (as described below), then continue to crochet the body:
Rnd 15: sc37, dec, sc6, dec, sc6 (51)
Rnd 17: sc36, dec, sc4, dec, sc5 (47), begin stuffing the body
Rnd 18 – separating the neck from the top of the back: sc6, ch2, skip20 sts, sc11, dec, sc1, dec, sc5
(27 = 25 sc sts + 2 ch sts)
Rnd 19: sc1, dec, sc1, dec, sc2, dec, sc1, dec, sc5, dec, sc1, dec, sc4 (21), finish stuffing the wide
part of the tail
Rnd 20: {sc1, dec} x 7 (14)
Rnd 21: dec x 7 (7), make another stitch decrease, cut the yarn and close up the remaining 6 stitches
Tail
Rnd 1: Insert the hook in the first skipped stitch (in Rnd7 of the body) and pull out a loop, yo and pull a
loop through this first loop, crochet sc st in the same st of Rnd7, crochet sc st in each of the next 7
skipped sts, then crochet sc st in next st of Rnd 7 of the body,
turn the work counter-clockwise and continue on chain stitches of Rnd8: crochet 2 sc sts in first ch st,
sc st in each of next 7 ch sts, 2 sc sts in last ch st, turn counter-clockwise and crochet sc st in the stitch
previous to the first skipped stitch of Rnd7 (21)

Rnd 3: sc14, dec, sc5 (20)

Rnd 5: dec, sc6, dec, sc10 (18)

Rnd 8: sc around (16), stuff gradually towards the end of the tail; leave the widest part not
stuffed – you will stuff it later, when finishing the body






Rnd 30: sc5, dec (6)
Rnd 31-34: sc around (6), do not cut yarn, continue to make the tail end:
you may need to crochet another stitch or two, so the next stitch – slip stitch – is on top middle of the
end of the tail: crochet this slip stitch through both layers of the tail, chain 2 stitches and crochet the
next stitches in the same stitch of the tail: {1hdc, 1 dc sts, ch2, sl st in the back of the second from hook
ch st, 1 dc, 1 hdc}, then chain 2 stitches and crochet sl st in the same stitch of the tail; cut yarn, pull the
end out of the loop, use the crochet hook or carpet needle to hide the end inside the tail (see pictures)
Neck and head
Work in the round – see pictures below
Rnd 1: attach yarn at the first of the two chain stitches (insert the hook in the first chain stitch and pull
out a loop, yo and pull a loop through this first loop), and crochet sc st in the same ch st,
then crochet sc st in the stitch previous to the first skipped stitch,
then crochet sc stitch in each of the 20 stitches around the neck, then crochet sc st in the stitch that
follows the 20th skipped st, then crochet sc st in the remaining unused chain st (24)

Rnd 4-5: sc around (20), finish stuffing the body, stuff the neck and then the head gradually
Rnd 6: dec, sc18 (19)

Rnd 8: dec, sc17 (18)

Rnd 11: dec, sc16 (17)

Rnd 15: dec, sc15 (16)

Rnd 19: sc1, dec, sc13 (15)

Rnd 22: sc9, dec, sc4 (14)

Rnd 26: sc9, dec, sc3 (13)

Rnd 28 – starting the head: sc10, ch3, crochet sc st in second and third from hook st, sc st in same st
of previous round, then sc st in each of next 3 sts (16 sc sts)
Rnd 29: sc7, inc, sc2, sc st in next unused ch loop, 2 sc sts in next unused ch loop, 2 sc sts in next sc st,
sc st in each of next 3 sc sts, 2 sc sts in next st, sc st in next st (22)
Rnd 30: sc12, inc x 4, sc6 (26)
Rnd 34: sc8, {sc1, dec} x 6 (20), crochet sc st in each of next 4 sts
Rnd 35: sc1, {sc1, dec} x 6, sc1 (14)
Rnd 36: dec x 7 (7), make another stitch decrease, cut the yarn and close up the remaining 6 stitches
Embroider the eyes (with black embroidery floss) at Rnd33, with 15 sts between the eyes; embroider
the eyelids (with main colour yarn) above the eyes, at 45 degrees angle.
Starting the belly. On the left, the arrows show where to crochet single crochet stitches of the first
belly round: chain 5 stitches, crochet 2 sc sts in second from hook ch st, sc st in each of next 2 ch sts,
3 sc sts in last ch st; continue on the opposite side of the chain: crochet sc st in next 3 ch sts – 10 sc sts
in this round. On the right, the arrows point at the last ch loop where you crochet 3 sc stitches:
On the left, the arrows show where to crochet 3 last sc stitches of the first round; on the right – the
completed first round, and the arrows show where to crochet the stitches of the second round:
Here you see the completed Rnd 4

of the belly:
Rnd 4: {sc2, inc} x 2, sc2, {sc2,

inc} x 3, sc3, inc (28) – notice
that you crochet only 27 stitches in
this round – one stitch short of
the full round, but the number of
the stitches in the round is 28.
The red arrows point at the stitches

you skip in the next round; the
blue arrows show where to crochet
stitches on the belly only:
Attaching the legs. In Rnd 5 of the belly, after crocheting 7 sts around the first leg, skip 3 sts of the
belly (the red arrows in the left picture) and crochet sc st in next st of the belly only and 2 sc sts in next
belly st (the blue arrows in the left picture); then crochet 7 sts around the next leg (the picture on the
right, the green arrow shows the stitch where to begin crocheting around the leg – it is the next stitch
after the last stitch of the leg), then skip 3 sts of the belly (the red arrows in the right picture) and
crochet next 6 sts on the belly only (the blue arrows in the right picture):
On the left: the green arrow shows where to begin crocheting around the next leg, the red arrows show
what stitches to skip and the blue arrows show where to crochet the stitches on the belly only, and in
the right picture – where to crochet the remaining stitches of the connecting round ( the red arrows
show what stitches to skip and the blue arrows show where to crochet the stitches on the belly only):
The view from the Right Side with all four legs attached. Before continuing to crochet the body,
connect the open stitches: the red dotted lines show the corresponding open leg and belly stitches, but
to avoid holes on the sides of the 3 pairs of open stitches, pull the yarn end through the pairs of stitches
to the left and to the right of the open stitches (the blue arrows; I only showed the pair to the right of
the open stitches, because it is easy to see in the picture, the pair on the left is obscured ):
For the first connecting stitch, insert the hook (from right to left) in the holes indicated by the arrows in
the left picture – you can see that hook inserted in those holes in the right picture, grab the yarn and
pull through those holes; the arrows in the right picture show where to insert the hook for the next
connecting stitch:
Then insert the hook in the first pair of open stitches and pull the yarn through these stitches, then do
the same with the other two pairs of open stitches (shown by the red arrows on the left).
In the right picture – the upper two arrows point at the third pair of open stitches, and the lower
arrows shows where to insert the hook through the pair of open stitches on the right of the third pair of
open stitches:
In the left picture the hook is inserted in that lower pair for the final connecting stitch.
On the right – insert the hook in the same pair and pull the yarn through those stitches again, to secure
the connection.
Making the tail. On the left – forming the opening for the tail with chain stitches; the green arrow
points at the first skipped stitch – this is the stitch where to attach yarn for the tail.
On the right – when crocheting the next round of the body, insert the hook in chain stitches in such a
way that only the front loop is in front of the hook:
To begin the tail, insert the hook in the first skipped stitch (in Rnd7 of the body) and pull out a loop,
yarn over and pull a loop through this first loop (as in the picture on the left, this loop does not count as
a stitch), and crochet sc st in the same st of Rnd7 (as in the picture on the right).
The white arrow shows where to crochet the 9th stitch in the first round of the tail and the red arrows
point at the first open chain loop where to crochet 10th and 11th sc stitches in the first round of the tail:
On the left the arrows point at the same chain loop where to crochet 2 sc stitches, and on the right you
see those 2 sc stitches already in place:
The green arrow points at the stitch where to crochet the final stitch of the first round of the tail, and the
red arrow shows where to crochet the first stitch of the second round. And on the left you see the first
stitch of Rnd2 already in place:
The end of the tail. On the left – sl st through both layers of the tail; chain 2 sts and crochet half
double crochet st and double crochet st in the same stitch; chain 2 sts and crochet sl st in the back of the
second from the hook st (the arrow in the middle picture points at it)
then crochet double crochet st and half double crochet st in the same stitch, then chain 2 sts and
crochet sl st in the same st, cut yarn, pull the end out of the loop and use the hook to pull the yarn end
inside the tail as shown, then use some appropriate tool (like these scissors with dull ends) to tuck the
end inside:
To make the end of the tail wider and more

dragon-like, crochet in the middle stitch:
{ch2, 3 dc sts, ch2, sl st in back of second from
hook st, 3 dc sts, ch2, sl st in same middle st}
Starting the neck.
To separate the neck from the
body, skip the next 20 stitches
of the body and crochet the
next stitch in the 21st stitch
Here is the
completed Rnd18:
The red arrow

shows where to
attach the yarn for
beginning of the
neck; the white
arrow shows
where to crochet
the second stitch
of Rnd1 of the
neck
The completed
top of the body
from above: the
tail is to the right,
the neck is to the
left
Starting the head in Rnd 28: after crocheting 10 sc sts, chain 3 sts and crochet sc st in second and third
from hook st, then crochet sc st in same st of previous round (the arrows in the left picture show where
to crochet these single crochet stitches).
On the right – the arrows show where to crochet stitch increase (2 sc sts in one st) in the next round: in
the second chain loop and the next sc stitch of the previous round:
On the left the arrows show where to crochet stitch increases in the next round, and on the right you see
these stitches already made:
And here you see the completed Rnd31:
Embroider the eyes at Rnd33, with 15 sts

between the eyes; embroider the eyelids (with
main colour yarn) above the eyes, at 45 degrees
angle.
☼ This pattern is for personal use only.
☼ All rights to this pattern, including all images, are owned by Elena’s Times.
☼ Do not copy, share or resell this pattern.
☼ Do not post this pattern or any part of this pattern on the Internet, do not translate this pattern to
other languages, do not publish this pattern in any form or by any means without written permission
from Elena’s Times.
☼ Unauthorized distribution or duplication is a violation of law.
☼ You can sell your finished item on limited bases, with reference to designer’s pattern
in your listing, for example: Pattern designed by Elena’s Times
☼ You must take your own photographs to represent your work.

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One-piece Dinosaur – Crochet Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern is written with

This brontosaurus is made in

Measurements and materials

What you need :

To make Magic Ring: wrap yarn around your left index

After that, insert the hook through the big middle

After completing the first round, pull on the short

Crochet stitches conversion chart

American crochet terms UK crochet terms

Rnd 2: inc x 2, sc2, inc x 3, sc2, inc (16)

Rnd 3: {sc1, inc} x 2, sc2, {sc1, inc} x 3, sc3, inc (22)

then continue to crochet the body:

Rnd 6: sc7, inc, sc1, inc, sc36 (48)

Rnd 9: sc around (53), add more stuffing to the legs

Rnd 2: sc around (21)

Rnd 4: sc around (20)

Rnd 6: sc around (18)

Rnd 9: dec, sc3, dec, sc9 (14)

Rnd 10-11: sc around (14)

Rnd 13-15: sc around (12)

Rnd 17-18: sc around (10)

Rnd 20-21: sc around (9)

Rnd 23-25: sc around (8)

Rnd 27-29: sc around (7)

Rnd 2: sc1, dec, sc18, dec, sc1 (22)

Rnd 7: sc around (19)

Rnd 9-10: sc around (18)

Rnd 12-14: sc around (17)

Rnd 16-18: sc around (16)

Rnd 20-21: sc around (15)

Rnd 23-25: sc around (14)

Rnd 27: sc around (13)

Here you see the completed Rnd 4

Rnd 4: {sc2, inc} x 2, sc2, {sc2,

The red arrows point at the stitches

To make the end of the tail wider and more

The red arrow

And here you see the completed Rnd31:

Embroider the eyes at Rnd33, with 15 sts

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