Rules for Chess

Object of the Chess Game

It's rather simple; there are two players with one player having 16 black or dark color chess pieces and the
other player having 16 white or light color chess pieces. The chess players move on a square chessboard
made up of 64 individual squares consisting of 32 dark squares and 32 light squares. Each chess piece has a
defined starting point or square with the dark chess pieces aligned on one side of the board and the light
pieces on the other. There are 6 different types of chess pieces, each with it's own unique method to move on
the chessboard. The chess pieces are used to both attack and defend from attack, against the other players
chessmen. Each player has one chess piece called the king. The ultimate objective of the game is to capture
the opponents king. Having said this, the king will never actually be captured. When either sides king is
trapped to where it cannot move without being taken, it's called "checkmate" or the shortened version
"mate". At this point, the game is over. The object of playing chess is really quite simple, but mastering this
game of chess is a totally different story.
Chess Board Setup

Now that you have a basic concept for the object of the chess game, the next step is to get the the
chessboard and chess pieces setup according to the rules of playing chess. Lets start with the chess
pieces. The 16 chess pieces are made up of 1 King, 1 queen, 2 bishops, 2 knights, 2 rooks, and 8
pawns. From the following diagram, you can identify the pieces and the general character of their shape and
appearance and also the location or square the chess pieces start from according to the chess rules. Now the
chessboard. The correct orientation, as per the chess rules, is with a black square on your left side as facing
the chess board. One of the more common mistakes in setting up the chess board is reversing the king and
queen chess pieces. Remember, as per the chess rules, the queen is always on her own color while the king
is always on the opposite color.

How the Chess Pieces Move

Now that you have the chessboard setup with each piece sitting on its correct square, you need to know the
chess rules of how each chess piece moves. The following are diagrams and instructions for the move of
each chess piece.
Chess piece - King
Having a king is mandatory even though he's pretty
much worthless and really nothing more than a mere
figure-head. But that's the rule of chess, like it or not,
you have to have a king. The king is always the tallest
piece on the chessboard and the king chess piece will
usually have a cross-like object on top. By the rules of
chess, his moves are pretty limited, he can only move
one square at a time but he can move
forward, backward, left, right and diagonally. Not to
offer any particular strategy, but keep him safe and
well protected!

Chess piece - Queen

Unlike the king, the queen is no figure-head. She's the
most powerful chess piece you have on the
chessboard. The queen usually looks like a queen in
the sense that she'll have a crown, sometimes with
nice sharp points. According to the rules of playing
chess, she can move vertically, horizontally, and
diagonally just as many squares she wants (without
jumping other chess pieces). So you'll want to be
careful and not give her up too carelessly or without a
steep price to your opponent.
Chess piece -Bishop
The bishop, well, I guess you could say the top of the
chess piece looks sort of like a bishop hat. Most
bishops also have a cut near the top resembling that
of a mouth. There are two bishops, always one on a
light square and one on a dark square. Chess rules
say that bishops move just like the queen except they
can't move forward, backward, left or right. Diagonally
only just as many spaces as desired without jumping
another chess piece. Because bishops move
diagonally, they will always remain on their original
square color as per the rules of chess. So if in the
middle of a chess game you notice either your
opponent or your bishops are on the same color
square - something's gone very wrong.

Chess piece - Knight

The knight is the most unique chess piece you
have! Not only does it usually resemble a horse, it is
the only chess piece that can jump over another chess
piece or pieces according to chess rules. The knight's
move is rather different. Think of the move as "L"
shaped - two squares either forward, backward, left, or
right and then left or right one square. This special
feature, being able to jump, can make the knight a very
useful chess piece early in the game.
 Chess piece - Rook
The rook is also called the castle by some and it
actually looks like a castle or at least a castle tower.
The rook, as per chess rules, moves just like the
queen except it can't move diagonally. Just forward,
backward, left, and right but as many spaces as
desired without jumping other chess pieces.

Chess piece - Pawn

The poor little pawns are put out in front right in harms
way while the other guys are hiding back behind. As
per the rules of playing chess, they're expected to
advance out in front and take the brunt of an oncoming
attack or serve as a shield. It seems rather unfair
considering they're pretty defenseless. These chess
piece are allowed to only move one square at at time
by the rules of chess. However, in thier first move, they
can move two squares if they want. They can only
move straight forward - no retreating for these soldiers
according of the chess rules. And they can only
capture one of the enemy by approaching
diagonally. But, according t the chess rules, if one of
these brave little soldiers can make it to the other side,
they are rewarded with a promotion - to a queen!
Some promotion that is!

Chess Board Notation

Those that take chess pretty seriously, actually keep track of all their moves and record entire games. In
order to record moves, someone came up with the smart idea of labeling the columns with letters and the
rows with numbers, thus each square is uniquely identified. As you can see, white has a tremendous
advantage because he or she doesn't have to look at upside-down numbers and read the alphabet
backwards. One of the more important reasons to be the white or light chess players side.
Castling
Castling can be a very effective strategy in the defense of your king and providing a safe-haven for him. The
act of "castling" involves two chess pieces, the rook and king and there are two different ways to
castle. Rather than trying to describe the two methods (which might get confusing), we'll rely on the diagrams
below to guide you through the correct moves. Now, there are special rules of chess and conditions that must
exist in order to castle. The special conditions are:

 Neither of the chess pieces involved, your king or rook that is being castled, have been
moved during the chess game.
 There are no other chess pieces between the king and the rook involved in the castling.
 Your king is not in check and neither your king or rook can be taken by your opponent's next
move after castling.

You can castle with either of the rooks as long as these special conditions are met. The moves involved in
castling with the Queen side rook are different than castling with king side rook. This is quite natural given that
there 2 spaces between the king and rook on the king side and respectively 3 spaces on the queen side.
Below are diagrams showing both methods of castling:
King Side Castling (white)
Before After Castling
Queen Side Castling (white)
Before After Castling

En Passant
There is a unique chess rule which involves a special move in chess that many casual players are not aware
of, the rule is called "en passant". This move involves only pawns and the situation for en passant may or
may not occur during a game. But if it does, it's good to know the rule and how to execute the move
properly. En passant is limited to a pawn moving from it's original position 2 squares landing adjacent to an
opponent’s pawn. On the very next move and only the next move, this pawn can be captured as illustrated
below:
White's Move Black's Move After Capture
All pawns of both sides are subject to the en passant rule of chess.
Promotion
We have already mentioned promotion of the pawn, but lets review exactly how this happens and what your
options are. Promotion occurs when you get a pawn clear across to the other side. In the same move of the
pawn reaches a far square, you remove the pawn and replace it with any chess piece you want, that is, except
a second king. Even if you already have all of your chess pieces. For example, most people naturally choose
a queen. So you can have two queens, and that's quite an advantage. But you can choose some other chess
piece if you prefer, it's entirely up to you. Here are a couple of diagrams to illustrate just how promotion
works:
Before Promotion

Let's Play
Now that you have the chess board all setup, you know how each chess piece moves along with the special
chess rules, let’s get the game underway. White always moves first and most players prefer to be white
because you can achieve a slight advantage by moving first. So what we recommend is you have a best out
of three "rock-scissors-paper" to determine who keeps to be white. Or, if you prefer, you can cast lots by
putting a different color pawn in each hand and then letting your friend choose one. From this point on, it's
real easy, white makes the first move and then you just take turns moving chess pieces and trying to
checkmate your opponent's king while taking as many chess pieces as you can along the way. But before
that first move, there's a few more rules that we better go over.
Don't Let Go (until you're sure)!
This is a very important chess rule, when you move your chess piece and let go, you're beyond the point of no
return. The move is final. Now, if you move it to a square and keep your finger on top while pondering the
genius or folly of the move, it's okay to backtrack and decide on a different move. So be certain about your
move before you let go!
Check
You know what checkmate or mate is, but we haven't yet explained the baby brother of checkmate called
check. When a king has been attacked and can be taken on the next move but can escape, it is called
check. Just like when you announced you were going to castle, it's also considered good manners to tell your
opponent he's in check "CHECK". Standing up for the announcement is optional.
The Ending
You know about checkmate, which ends the game, but there are three other possible endings to a
game. One possibility is a stalemate or draw, meaning that with the given pieces left on the board, neither
player can win. For example, a king against a king. There are no winning possibilities for either side in this
situation. Another possible outcome is for one player to resign. A game can become so one-sided (both
remaining pieces and position) that the advantage is too great for the other player to overcome. When this
happens, the disadvantaged player can simply call "uncle" and give it up. But don't give up too easy,
mistakes can always be made. The third possibility is a draw, even though a checkmate is possible.
 

Rules for Checkers

1. Checkers is played by two players. Each player begins the game with 12 colored discs.
(Typically, one set of pieces is black and the other red.)
2. The board consists of 64 squares, alternating between 32 dark and 32 light squares. It is
positioned so that each player has a light square on the right side corner closest to him or her.
3. Each player places his or her pieces on the 12 dark squares closest to him or her.
4. Black moves first. Players then alternate moves.
5. Moves are allowed only on the dark squares, so pieces always move diagonally. Single pieces
are always limited to forward moves (toward the opponent).
6. A piece making a non-capturing move (not involving a jump) may move only one square.
7. A piece making a capturing move (a jump) leaps over one of the opponent's pieces, landing in a
straight diagonal line on the other side. Only one piece may be captured in a single jump;
however, multiple jumps are allowed on a single turn.
8. When a piece is captured, it is removed from the board.
9. If a player is able to make a capture, there is no option -- the jump must be made. If more than
one capture is available, the player is free to choose whichever he or she prefers.
10. When a piece reaches the furthest row from the player who controls that piece, it is crowned and
becomes a king. One of the pieces which had been captured is placed on top of the king so that it
is twice as high as a single piece.
11. Kings are limited to moving diagonally, but may move both forward and backward. (Remember
that single pieces, i.e. non-kings, are always limited to forward moves.)
12. Kings may combine jumps in several directions -- forward and backward -- on the same turn.
Single pieces may shift direction diagonally during a multiple capture turn, but must always jump
forward (toward the opponent).
13. A player wins the game when the opponent cannot make a move. In most cases, this is
because all of the opponent's pieces have been captured, but it could also be because all
of his pieces are blocked in.

Tips:

1. Checkers (using the U.S. rules) uses the same board as Chess. Many sets comes with the
pieces needed to play both games.
 2. Many different games can be played using the basic 8x8 Checkers board and pieces. In
fact, it's not too hard to come up with your own variants. And here's a collection of free
games for an 8x8 board that can be played with game pieces you probably already have.

What You Need

 8x8 game board

 24 discs (12 of 2 colors)
Rules of Backgammon

Setup
Backgammon is a game for two players, played on a board consisting of twenty-
four narrow triangles called points. The triangles alternate in color and are
grouped into four quadrants of six triangles each. The quadrants are referred to
as a player's home board and outer board, and the opponent's home board and
outer board. The home and outer boards are separated from each other by a ridge
down the center of the board called the bar.

Figure 1. A board
with the checkers in
their initial position.
An alternate
arrangement is the
reverse of the one
shown here, with the
home board on the left
and the outer board on
the right.

The points are numbered for either player starting in that player's home board.
The outermost point is the twenty-four point, which is also the opponent's one
point. Each player has fifteen checkers of his own color. The initial arrangement
of checkers is: two on each player's twenty-four point, five on each player's
thirteen point, three on each player's eight point, and five on each player's six
point.

Both players have their own pair of dice and a dice cup used for
shaking. A doubling cube, with the numerals 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, and
64 on its faces, is used to keep track of the current stake of the
game.

Object of the Game

The object of the game is move all your checkers into your own home board and
then bear them off. The first player to bear off all of their checkers wins the
game.
 Figure 2. Direction of
movement of White's
checkers. Red's
checkers move in the
opposite direction.

Movement of the Checkers

To start the game, each player throws a single die. This determines both the
player to go first and the numbers to be played. If equal numbers come up, then
both players roll again until they roll different numbers. The player throwing the
higher number now moves his checkers according to the numbers showing on
both dice. After the first roll, the players throw two dice and alternate turns.

The roll of the dice indicates how many points, or pips, the player is to move his
checkers. The checkers are always moved forward, to a lower-numbered point.
The following rules apply:

1. A checker may be moved only to an open point, one that is not occupied
by two or more opposing checkers.
2. The numbers on the two dice constitute separate moves. For example, if a
player rolls 5 and 3, he may move one checker five spaces to an open
point and another checker three spaces to an open point, or he may move
the one checker a total of eight spaces to an open point, but only if the
intermediate point (either three or five spaces from the starting point) is
also open.
 Figure 3. Two ways
that White can play a
roll of .

3. A player who rolls doubles plays the numbers shown on the dice twice. A
roll of 6 and 6 means that the player has four sixes to use, and he may
move any combination of checkers he feels appropriate to complete this
requirement.
4. A player must use both numbers of a roll if this is legally possible (or all
four numbers of a double). When only one number can be played, the
player must play that number. Or if either number can be played but not
both, the player must play the larger one. When neither number can be
used, the player loses his turn. In the case of doubles, when all four
numbers cannot be played, the player must play as many numbers as he
can.

Hitting and Entering

A point occupied by a single checker of either color is called a blot. If an
opposing checker lands on a blot, the blot is hit and placed on the bar.

Any time a player has one or more checkers on the bar, his first obligation is to
enter those checker(s) into the opposing home board. A checker is entered by
moving it to an open point corresponding to one of the numbers on the rolled
dice.

For example, if a player rolls 4 and 6, he may enter a checker onto either the
opponent's four point or six point, so long as the prospective point is not
occupied by two or more of the opponent's checkers.
 Figure 4. If White
rolls with a
checker on the bar, he
must enter the checker
onto Red's four point
since Red's six point is
not open.

If neither of the points is open, the player loses his turn. If a player is able to
enter some but not all of his checkers, he must enter as many as he can and then
forfeit the remainder of his turn.

After the last of a player's checkers has been entered, any unused numbers on the
dice must be played, by moving either the checker that was entered or a different
checker.

Bearing Off
Once a player has moved all of his fifteen checkers into his home board, he may
commence bearing off. A player bears off a checker by rolling a number that
corresponds to the point on which the checker resides, and then removing that
checker from the board. Thus, rolling a 6 permits the player to remove a checker
from the six point.

If there is no checker on the point indicated by the roll, the player must make a
legal move using a checker on a higher-numbered point. If there are no checkers
on higher-numbered points, the player is permitted (and required) to remove a
checker from the highest point on which one of his checkers resides. A player is
under no obligation to bear off if he can make an otherwise legal move.

Figure 5. White rolls

and bears off two
checkers.

A player must have all of his active checkers in his home board in order to bear
off. If a checker is hit during the bear-off process, the player must bring that
checker back to his home board before continuing to bear off. The first player to
bear off all fifteen checkers wins the game.

Doubling
Backgammon is played for an agreed stake per point. Each game starts at one
point. During the course of the game, a player who feels he has a sufficient
advantage may propose doubling the stakes. He may do this only at the start of
his own turn and before he has rolled the dice.

A player who is offered a double may refuse, in which case he concedes the
game and pays one point. Otherwise, he must accept the double and play on for
the new higher stakes. A player who accepts a double becomes the owner of the
cube and only he may make the next double.

Subsequent doubles in the same game are called redoubles. If a player refuses a
redouble, he must pay the number of points that were at stake prior to the
redouble. Otherwise, he becomes the new owner of the cube and the game
continues at twice the previous stakes. There is no limit to the number of
redoubles in a game.

Gammons and Backgammons

At the end of the game, if the losing player has borne off at least one checker, he
loses only the value showing on the doubling cube (one point, if there have been
no doubles). However, if the loser has not borne off any of his checkers, he is
gammoned and loses twice the value of the doubling cube. Or, worse, if the loser
has not borne off any of his checkers and still has a checker on the bar or in the
winner's home board, he is backgammoned and loses three times the value of the
doubling cube.

Optional Rules
The following optional rules are in widespread use.

1. Automatic doubles. If identical numbers are thrown on the first roll, the
stakes are doubled. The doubling cube is turned to 2 and remains in the
middle. Players usually agree to limit the number of automatic doubles to
one per game.
2. Beavers. When a player is doubled, he may immediately redouble
(beaver) while retaining possession of the cube. The original doubler has
the option of accepting or refusing as with a normal double.
 3. The Jacoby Rule. Gammons and backgammons count only as a single
game if neither player has offered a double during the course of the
game. This rule speeds up play by eliminating situations where a player
avoids doubling so he can play on for a gammon.

Irregularities
1. The dice must be rolled together and land flat on the surface of the right-
hand section of the board. The player must reroll both dice if a die lands
outside the right-hand board, or lands on a checker, or does not land flat.
2. A turn is completed when the player picks up his dice. If the play is
incomplete or otherwise illegal, the opponent has the option of accepting
the play as made or of requiring the player to make a legal play. A play is
deemed to have been accepted as made when the opponent rolls his dice
or offers a double to start his own turn.
3. If a player rolls before his opponent has completed his turn by picking up
the dice, the player's roll is voided. This rule is generally waived any
time a play is forced or when there is no further contact between the
opposing forces.

   
Rules of Cribbage
Cribbage is a card game that is thought to have been invented in the 17th century by Sir John
Suckling. It was also the favorite card game of Mr. and Mrs. Benjamin Franklin. Here's how to
play:

Number of players: Best for two players although three- and four-handed variations also exist.

Object: To reach 121 points for the traditional or long game; 61 points for the short game. Points
are scored by forming specific combinations of cards.

The cards: Standard 52-card deck. Cards are assigned a point value equal to rank. Aces are low
and count 1; face cards count 10.

The Cribbage board: A regulation board has four rows of 30 holes, marked off in groups of
five and organized in two rows of two (two for each player). The pegs that come with the board
are typically different colors to identify individual players. Each player has two pegs. Before
play begins, the four pegs are placed at the start end of the board. The movement of the pegs, up
the outside row and down the inside row back to the start, shows the progress of each player's
game. The complete trip of the pegs is equal to 61 points. The traditional game is two trips, or
121 points. Use the two pegs in alternating fashion (the first peg indicates the previous score; the
second peg indicates the most recent score); in this way, scores can be checked for accuracy.
(Don't worry if you lack a Cribbage board because paper and pencil can substitute as a way to
keep score. However, a Cribbage board is preferable.) See the sections on scoring for a complete
guide on how to score points and move the pegs.

Dealing: Players cut for low card to determine first dealer. If this results in a tie, cut again. The
nondealer immediately pegs 3 points for compensation, which occurs only once. Henceforth,
players alternate dealing, as well as alternate taking turns during a game. Each player is dealt six
cards, one at a time. Both players select two cards from their hands and place them facedown to
form the "crib," which belongs to the dealer. The crib is not shown or used until the end of play.
The crib is essentially an extra hand scored for the dealer. Deciding which cards to place in the
crib, whether or not you are the dealer, is an enormous part of cribbage strategy.

©2006 Publications International, Ltd.

The cards you select for the crib depend on whose crib it is.
If the crib belongs to your opponent (left), put the 5 and 8
into the crib because you can use the 4 to begin play and later
 score a pair and two 15s. If the crib belongs to you (right),
put the two 6s into the crib, where you will be guaranteed
at least a pair. If your opponent happens to add one 6 into
your crib, it will be more than scoring two 15s;
that is, 6 points instead of 4 points.

The start card: After the deal and after forming the crib, the nondealer cuts the remaining pack.
The dealer turns over the top card of the stack to indicate the start card. If the start card is a jack
(called "two for his heels"), the dealer automatically pegs 2 (scores 2 points). The start card will
not be used until play is complete.

Playing: Nondealer may now play any one card from his or her hand. This is done by turning a
card faceup and calling out its value -- face cards count as 10, the ace counts as 1, and the rest of
the cards count as their face value. The dealer next does the same, saying aloud the sum value of
the two cards played. For instance, if the nondealer laid down a 3 and the dealer laid down a 4,
the dealer would announce the combined value as 7. The cards are kept separate in front of the
players. The play continues back and forth between players until one player makes 31 and pegs 2
points.

If, however, you cannot play any of your remaining cards without exceeding 31 during this
round, you say, "Go." This tells your opponent to continue lay down cards as long as he or she
cannot go past 31 while scoring combinations (see "Pegging for melds in play"). Your opponent
must play any remaining cards in his or her hand, adding up to 31 or less. At this point, your
opponent pegs 1 point for a "Go" or 2 points if he or she scores 31 points exactly. Play now ends
for this deal.

Pegging for melds made in play: Scoring is kept for the "Go," 31, last card, and combinations
(melds) made in play. Melds are pegged as they happen. These melds are:

 If you make a count of 15 during play, peg 2.

 If you match the rank of the card played by the opponent, peg 2 for the pair.

 Three cards of the same rank are worth 6 points (6 pegs), the fourth one scores (pegs) 12.

 Sequences also count, and the cards don't have to be in exact order. For example, 3-6-4-5
scores 4 points for the last player, and if the next player follows with a 2, that sequence is
worth 5 points.

 You do not score a flush (a sequence of cards of the same suit) in play, however, until the
hand is tallied.

Scoring Combinations
Fifteen: Any combination of cards totaling exactly 15 points, 2 points

Pair: Two cards of the same rank, 2 points

Triplet: Three cards of the same rank, 6 points

Quartet: Four cards of the same rank, 12 points

Sequence: Three or more cards in a row, any suit (aces always low), 1 point per card

Flush: Four cards of the same suit (not the crib and not including the starter), 4 points; five cards
in hand or crib with starter, 5 points

His Nobs: Jack of same suit as starter, 1 point

Combination melds are also possible. For instance, if you start by playing a 5, your opponent can
score 2 points by matching your 5, but then you can match with a third five and receive a bonus
for hitting 15 as well as a bonus for matching three cards.

Scoring the hands: After the play, the players reexamine their cards for possible scoring
combinations (see the "Scoring Combinations" sidebar). First, the nondealer counts points from
the four played cards and the start card, making as many combinations as they can from the five
cards available to them. Second, the dealer counts points from the four played cards and the start
card; and third, the dealer counts points from the four cards in the crib and the start card.

Much like the melds in play, combination scores are not only possible, but essential in cribbage.
Cards may be used several times in an effort to make separate scoring combinations. For
instance, if the start card is a 3 and you have a J in your hand, you can use the J to make the
"His Nobs" combination as well as any other combinations possible with the card.

Because Cribbage scoring is involved and precise, many players follow the rule of Muggins. In
this variation players count aloud their points. If any points are overlooked, the opponent says
aloud "Muggins" and takes the points overlooked into their own tally.

Pegging out: A game is over when one player pegs out at 121 (or 61, in the shorter game). This
can occur at any time, including before your opponent scores his or her points. So while the
dealer gets the advantage of the crib, the nondealer -- because they tally their points first -- can
peg out before the dealer even has the chance to score their points.

It is also not necessary to reach 121 exactly. You can peg out by scoring more than 121 points.
You score a double game when you skunk or "lurch" your opponent -- win by more than 60
points (in a 121-point game).

Tips: One of the fine arts of Cribbage is choosing which cards to go into the crib and which
cards to keep. If you have a high-scoring four-card group, such as 7-8-8-9, keep them and put the
other two in the crib.

If it's your own crib, put scoring cards such as pairs and 15s (or at least a 5-spot) into the crib,
when this also leaves you a reasonable hand. In general, put middle-range cards (4 through 8) in
your own crib, and put high and low cards (2s and kings) in your opponent's. Take into account
how many start cards will be good for the various choices of cards to keep. Likewise, consider
how different start cards can combine with your crib discards.

In play, start with a card that counts under 5 so that opponent can't peg an immediate 15.

Near the end of the game, scoring order can greatly influence your discards and your decisions in
play. For example, if you need just 3 or 4 points to win, then you don't need a high-scoring hand.
Try to keep cards that will permit you to win during the play-out.

Similarly, when dealer is 5 or 10 points from winning, opponent needs to score points soon and
may have to gamble on getting help from the start card for a high-scoring hand.

   
Rules of Cribbage
Ages 7 to Adult

Set Up:
Place all the dominoes face down on the table and mix them.

 For Double Six Dominoes: 2 to 4 players. Each player takes 5 dominoes.

 For Double Nine Dominoes: 2 to 7 players. Each player takes 7 dominoes.

 For Double Twelve Dominoes: 2 to 10 players. Each player takes 9 dominoes.

Stand the pieces up with the dots facing you. Do not let the other players see your dominoes.
The remaining dominoes become the draw pile.

Each domino is divided into two parts or ends, each containing a set of dots. A double domino
contains matching ends (9-9, 8-8, etc.) The player who draws the highest double domino places it
in the center of the table to begin the game. Play then proceeds to the left. (If no double was
drawn, all dominoes are returned to the draw pile, remixed and redrawn.)

The second player then tries to match one of his dominoes to either end or side of the double. For
example, if the first domino played is a double four, the second player may add any one of his
dominoes containing four dots on one end. The next player may play to the remaining double
four or he may try to match the end of the second domino played. Blanks match other
blanks. Only one domino may be played at each turn. Dominoes are placed lengthwise rather
than at right angles, except in the case of a double as shown.

Players match ends of the

dominoes but may play to either
end or to either side of a double,
thereby giving two new directions
in which to place dominoes.

If a player cannot match the dots at any open end of a row, he must pick from the draw pile until
he is able to play a domino. If he draws the last domino and still cannot play, he passes and then
tries again on his next turn. A player must play a domino if he is able to do so.

Play continues until one player has used all of his dominoes or until no one can play. If no
further plays can be made and all dominoes have been drawn, the player with no dominoes or
with the least number of points (dots on his remaining dominoes), wins the round. He subtracts
the total of his points from the total of each of his opponents' points and adds the balance of
points for his score. For example: player A had the least amount of dots left in his hand (5).
Player B had 19 dots and player C had 12 dots. Player A subtracts his dots from both player B
and player C: 19-5=14, 12-5=7. Player A's score would be 21 (14+7=21).

Rounds continue until one player has scored at least 100 points and wins the game. To begin a
new round, turn all the dominoes face down, mix them up and each player draws new dominoes
(see Set Up for the amount to take). Every round is played the same way as the first, beginning
with the player who has the highest double domino.

Other Games to play with Double Nine and Double Twelve Dominoes:

Matador (3 to 8 players)

Place the dominoes face down on the table and mix them. If there are 3 to 6 players, each draws
5 dominoes. It there are 6 to 8 players, each draws 5 dominoes. The player with the highest
double domino, or if no one has a double, the player with the domino that has the most points,
goes first. Play proceeds to the left.

Instead of playing a matching domino, the object is to play any domino that, when added to an
open end, will total 10. For example, the opening domino is a double 9. In Matador, double
dominoes count for only half their full value. A double 9 would only be worth 9 points instead
of 18. The next player must place a domino with only 1 dot at the end of the double 9 to equal 10
points.

Since no domino can be added to a blank to equal 10, there are 6 Matador dominoes that can be
played in this case. They are: 9-1, 8-2, 7-3, 6-4, 5-5 and double blank. These 6 Matadors are the
only dominoes that can be played on a blank; however, they can also be played anywhere and at
any time.

When a player cannot make the required 10, he must draw from the draw pile. If he is unable to
draw a playable domino and there are no dominoes left in the pile, he must pass.

If a player has one or more Matador tiles, he has the option to play the Matador, or draw from the
pile. If he chooses to draw and is unable to draw a playable domino, he must play his Matador.

The first player to place his last domino scores the total number of points remaining in each
player's hand. A double left in a player's hand counts as its full value.

If no player is able to place his last domino, the game is blocked. The player who has the lowest
number of points in his hand scores the difference between his hand and the total of each
opponent.

The first player to score 100 or more points wins the game.
Tiddle-A Wink (6 to 10 players)

Place all dominoes face down on the table and mix them. Each player draws 5 dominoes. The
player with the highest double domino goes first and play proceeds to the left.

When a double domino is played, either when starting or during the game, that player takes
another turn. When a player is unable to match, he says "G" and passes. The first player to place
his last domino calls "Tiddle-A-Wink" and receives the total number of points left in the other
players' hands. If the game is blocked and no player is able to call "Tiddle-A-Wink" the player
holding the least amount of points in his hand receives the total number of points from the other
players' hands minus his own points.

The player to score 200 points is the winner.