eBooks

Horses and Hens:

Perfect Pasture Pals
Table of Contents
Horses and Hens as Companions
Benefits of the Buddy System.........................................................Page 2
Considerations for Co-Habitation...................................................Page 3

Getting Started With Chickens

Caring for Chicks..............................................................................Page 4
Types of Poultry................................................................................Page 6
Feeding Chickens.............................................................................Page 5

Getting Started With Horses

Finding the Right Horse...................................................................Page 8
Feeding a Horse................................................................................Page 9
Checklist for Buying a Horse........................................................Page 10

COVER CREDIT: NICKY RHODES/ADOBE STOCK

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Horses and Hens as
Companions: The Buddy System

H
Have you ever wanted to diversify your farm with companion species?
If so, do you find yourself wondering, “What species go well together?”
Well, that answer can be as simple as horses and hens! Horse owners can find multiple benefits in adding
chickens to their operation.
Not only are they fun to watch, but the chickens can serve a purpose!

1. Chickens are opportun-
ists. When a pellet or kernel falls,
they’ll be there to pick it up. This
saves your horse from mouthing
around on the ground to find bits of
feed (a practice that can lead to
ingestion of dirt and sand), and it
reduces the amount of feed that is
wasted. It also reduces the chance of
rodents – like opossums – coming
around to clean up the dropped feed.
2. Chickens are good horse
trainers. A horse that has had
exposure to poultry won’t have his
feathers ruffled by sudden move-
ments, loud noises or the occasion-
al appearance of an egg.
3. Chickens help prepare
your horse for the trail. If you
plan to take trail rides where wild
turkeys, partridge, chukar, etc. pop-
ulate, it can be beneficial to have
your horse used to the patterns and
noises of fowl by keeping a few
chickens around. A little exposure
to flapping, squawking and scurry-
ing can go a long way to desensi-
tizing your horse to those types of
encounters out on the trail.
2, Chickens are nature’s fly
traps. You and your horse hate
bugs – but chickens love them.
Chickens eat flies, ticks, worms,
grubs, bees and more; if they can
catch it, they’ll nibble on it, which
means it won’t be nibbling on you
or your horse. Guinea fowl will eat
all these insects – and more crit-
ters, including snakes – but be
warned: Guinea fowl are notoriously
loud..
3, Chickens are low mainte-
nance. Provide them with quality
layer feed; a cozy place to sleep;
fresh, clean water; free-choice oys-
ter shell for strong egg shells and
grit for digestion, and they will be
happy and healthy.
6. Chickens help with the
chores! One of a chicken’s favor-
ite things to do is scratch the
ground for hidden treasures. Give
them a pile of horse droppings, and
they think they’re in heaven! They’ll
have the manure broken down,
spread around and out of sight
before you can even think of grab-
bing a manure fork and wheelbar-
row!
7. Chickens are pets with
benefits. Besides being a colorful
and entertaining addition to your
stable yard, chickens provide one
thing your horse can’t – breakfast!
Now, if they could only cook it and
serve it to you in bed …

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 COURTE SY O F NUTRENA

Considerations
for Co-Habitation
A few words of caution about keeping chickens with your horses:

• Feed separately. Make sure that your chickens are fed separately from your horses and that your horses
can’t get into the chicken feed. This eliminates the risk of your horse consuming layer feed that is not designed
for his digestive system.
• Room to roost. Provide roosts for your chickens that are away from your horses’ feeder, if they are not put
into a coop at night, to eliminate waste of feed and hay due to chicken droppings.
• Think drink. Make sure both your horses and chickens have fresh, clean water that is easily accessible to
them at all times.

3
Getting Started
with Chickens
Many people associate spring with fuzzy baby chicks, but modern hatchery practices make chicks

available year-round. Once you know which breed is right for you (see Page 6), select a reputable

hatchery or dealer from which to purchase your chicks.

T
The Brooder
Young chicks must have a brooder, or
small enclosed area, for warmth and
protection.

• Prepare the brooder by cleaning

• Once the brooder has dried, cover
the floor with 4 to 6 inches of dry
litter material. Pinewood shavings
or sawdust is recommended to aid
in disease prevention. Hardwood
litter is not recommended.
• Carefully position an incandescent
bulb about a foot above the box
floor to provide heat. Add a second
light in case one bulb burns out.

• Newly hatched chicks will find their

and disinfecting it at least two days perfect temperature in the brooder.
before the chicks arrive. • Place the brooder in a draft-free
location. • If it’s too hot under the bulb, chicks

COURTE SY O F NUTRENA

4
 will move away from the heat; if it’s
too cool, they’ll move closer. It’s
important to give chicks space to
move about.
• Baby chicks huddle together when
they’re cold, which can cause
smothering or suffocation, so check
your chicks regularly to be sure they
are comfortable. Raise the height of
the lights as the chicks grow,
because their need for artificial heat
will diminish as they grow feathers.
Hydration
Clean, fresh water is the most impor-
tant thing to give your chicks.
How Much Does a Chicken Eat?
Below are some general guidelines to go by, keeping in mind
that a variety of factors, from weather to other available food
sources, can influence the exact amount of prepared feed
your birds will consume
Feeding Amounts for Newly Hatched Birds:
• Layer Chicks: 9-10 pounds per bird in the first 10 weeks.
• Broiler Chicks (based on Cornish game birds): 8-9 pounds
per bird in the first six weeks.
• Turkeys: 72 pounds per bird in the first 12 weeks.
• Geese: 53 pounds per bird in the first eight weeks.
• Ducks: 22 pounds per bird in the first eight weeks.
• Game Birds: 9 pounds per bird in the first eight weeks.

• Make sure water is always available

Feeding Amounts for Laying Birds:
and that the waterers are clean.
• Chickens: 1.5 pounds per bird per week.

• Check water levels daily to be sure • Turkeys: 4-5 pounds per bird per week.
your chicks are consuming enough. • Geese: 3 pounds per bird per week.
• Game Birds: 1-1.5 pounds per bird per week.
Nutrition
Chick starter-grower rations are avail-
able in medicated and unmedicated
formulas.

• Select a starter formula with the

protein, vitamins and minerals
chicks need to thrive.
• Sprinkle the feed on the brooder
floor at first, but use a chick feeder
COURTESY OF NUTRENA

when the chicks are a few days old.

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Types of Poultry
C
Chickens
Many different breeds of chickens
have been developed for different
purposes. For simplicity, you can
place them into three general catego-
ries: Laying, meat-producing and and will weigh 5 pounds or more at 8 and Other Poultry
dual-purpose breeds.
Laying Breeds: These breeds are
known for their egg-laying capacity.
Popular laying breeds include the
White Leghorn, Red Sex Link and
Black Sex Link. A healthy hen will lay
eggs for several years. Hens begin to
lay at approximately 16-20 weeks of
age and will lay between 20-23 dozen
eggs the first year. At 14 months, lay-
ing hens usually begin to molt, the
process by which they drop their old
feathers and grow new ones. No eggs
are laid during this period. After molt-
ing, hens will lay larger but fewer eggs
per year (about 16-18 dozen).
Meat Breeds: Meat-producing
breeds are very efficient at converting
feed to meat, producing approximate-
ly 1 pound of bodyweight for every 2
pounds of feed they eat. A popular
meat-producing breed is the
Cornishgame hen, which is a cross
between the Cornish and the New
Hampshire or Plymouth Rock breeds.
Meat-producing chickens are broad
breasted and larger than the laying
free range around your barn, farm or
ranch are Brown
Welsummers and Dominques.
Turkeys, Game Birds
breeds. They grow and feather rapidly
Leghorns,
weeks of age. Broilers and fryers are Turkeys, geese, ducks and pheasants
butchered at 3.5-5 pounds, while a are often raised as pets or for their
roaster is butchered at 6-8 pounds. egg and meat-producing qualities.
They also can make terrific projects
Dual-Purpose Breeds: The dual- for children to learn responsibility and
purpose breed is the classic backyard animal husbandry skills.
chicken. These breeds are hardy, self-
reliant and fairly large bodied. Most Your local Nutrena dealer and
lay large brown-shelled eggs. extension agent are excellent resourc-
Examples include Rhode Island Red es for information on breeds and spe-
and New Hampshire breeds. Some cies that are appropriate for your
laying and dual-purpose hens tend to goals and geographic region.
get broody, which means they will
want to sit on and hatch eggs.
Because broody hens don’t lay eggs,
egg production will be affected.
Consult with your local extension
agent or other poultry expert to help
you choose the right breeds.
Ranch Breeds: Not all breeds of
chickens are created equal. Some
make better “ranch chickens” than
others. Meat birds will not run from a
predator. Recommended breeds to COURTE SY O F NUTRENA
6
Getting Started
With Horses
Maybe you’ve started with chickens
and you’re ready to step up to horse
ownership. Horses require a bit
more attention, but with horses, the

M
possibilities are endless for enjoy-
ment and life-altering experiences.
When considering buying a horse,
your options are unlimited. In the
age of information overload, it’s
easy to become overwhelmed and
let your emotions take control,
instead of making a sound purchas-
ing decision on the right horse for
your needs and wants.
• Consult an AQHA
Professional Horseman. You
can access a directory at www.
aqha.com/findatrainer of
American Quarter Horse
Association Professional
Horsemen, qualified individuals
who have agreed to a code of
ethics and who have a passion
for their work and for the
American Quarter Horse.
• Ask the seller many ques-
tions, including whether he or
she has the horse’s original regis-
tration certificate. AQHA

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• Visit the horse and make
sure he is in good health
and suits the purpose you
Buyers Guide to
have in mind. Be sure to note
his personality. Does it compli-
ment your own?
the American
• Assess his performance,
handling and ground man-
Quarter Horse
ners. Have the handler or seller
The purchase of your first horse often sets the tone for a
work with the horse first. If you’re
buying him for a special purpose, lifetime of horseback experiences. The Buyers Guide to an
be sure to have the handler or American Quarter Horse is here to help.
seller show you the horse’s abili- This free e-book walks you through the process of purchas-
ties.
ing a horse:
• Take a test ride. Determine if
the horse performs for you as
• Understand your needs.
well as for the original handler. • Find a horse to purchase.
Note: If the horse performs much • Things to consider when you visit a breeder or owner.
better for the handler than you,
• How to evaluate a horse’s conformation.
he might require a more
• Evaluating the horse’s disposition.
advanced rider. If you buy the
horse, you might need more • Health considerations.
training to ride him successfully. • Price.
Decide how much of a challenge • AQHA transfer procedures for a registered horse.
you want.
• Caring for your horse.
• Ask to see the registration
certificate and verify that the
Download the free guide at www.aqha.com/buyers-guide-to-
horse and description match. an-american-quarter-horse.
• Get a pre-purchase exami-
nation. Find an equine veteri- Coggins papers, and find out • Bring along a more experi-
narian using the American when the horse was last vacci- enced horse person, if you
Association of Equine nated and dewormed. can. Find an AQHA Professional
Practitioners’ directory at aaep. • Negotiate the price, some- Horseman in your area using the
org/horse-owners/get-dvm. Be where within 85 to 95 percent of www.aqha.com/findatrainer direc-
sure the horse has current the asking price. tory.

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Feeding a Horse
1
1. Monitor Your Horse’s Body
Condition
Every horse is different. Some
horses will gain weight over the win-
ter from working less, while other
horses will shed a few pounds keep-
ing warm in the cold. Before thinking
of changing up your horse’s feeding
regimen in the spring, first evaluate
AQHA
his body condition. With the help of
your veterinarian or a knowledge-
able equine professional, determine
if your horse is too skinny, too fat or
carrying just the right amount of
weight.
To monitor your horse’s weight
without using a scale, you can utilize
the body condition scoring method,
which helps you estimate the amount
of fat on your horse’s body. Once
you have estimated the level of fat
cover, you will be able to more accu-
rately determine whether you should
increase or decrease your horse’s
caloric intake.
It is important to note that each
horse will require a different body
condition score that is dependent on
a number of factors, including age,
level of work, breed, current or past
injuries, etc.
2. Don’t Forget About
Concentrates
Many horses are fed grain or pel-
leted feed every day. Throughout
winter, some horses need extra con-
centrates to maintain their ideal
body weight, while other horses
have their feed reduced, due to
inactivity. Adjusting the type and
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amount of concentrates or grain
your horse consumes should be
done slowly and carefully. A horse’s
internal digestive system is built for
slow changes.
Monitor his level of work and body
condition. If your horse’s work level
is increased, he might need more
grain. Conversely, if his work level
remains the same, and he is able to
safely consume spring grasses,
then your horse might need fewer
concentrates.
Whatever adjustments are made,
make sure your horse still receives
the appropriate level of essential
nutrients, such as amino acids, vita-
mins and minerals. Achieving this
may require a change in the feed
product being used. Horses requir-
ing additional calories could be
bumped up to a higher-calorie per-
formance horse feed, while those
needing fewer calories could go
down to a ration balancer.
3. Horses Eat a Lot of Forage
It is no secret that horses eat a lot
of forage. However, what most peo-
ple don’t know is that a horse’s for-
age is only as good as the fiber that
it contains. Pastures often lay dor-
mant during winter, which can
reduce a horse’s natural intake of
grass forage. As a result, many
equestrians feed their horses extra
forage via hay or beet pulp. This
feeding tactic can be great for the
cold months, but it should be re-
evaluated in spring.
When spring arrives, most pasture
paddocks will be filled with new
grasses rich in sugar. Monitor your
horse’s body condition score as he
begins to graze on the rich, green
grasses. Horses that gorge them-
selves on spring grasses may
encounter some serious health
issues. For example, overweight
horses or those with Cushing’s dis-
ease, insulin resistance or laminitis
will need to be carefully monitored.
High sugar and starch levels of
spring grass can aggravate the lat-
ter conditions. In these instances,
reduced turnout time or a grazing
muzzle can help limit pasture intake
for certain at-risk horses.
4). Lots of Fresh Water
Horses need to have access to
plenty of fresh water 24 hours a day.
Warmer temperatures and an
increase in body sweat can result in
dehydration. Make sure that your
horse has access to water after a
workout. You can also add electro-
Checklist for Buying a Horse
When you first contact a seller about a horse he or she has for sale, you
should be prepared with your questions. Here is a list of questions to get
you started:
___ Is he registered, and do you have the original registration certificate?
___ Is this a gelding, stallion or mare?
___ What condition is the horse in?
___ Does he have any health problems?
___ What is the horse’s personality like? Quiet and well-mannered, high-
strung, or “spirited” and likes to go?
___ What does the horse look like?
___ How tall is the horse?
___ How old is the horse?
___ What kind of training has he had?
___ Is he safe to ride out on the roads?
___ What is the horse’s recent background? What has he been doing? Has
he been out to pasture or has he been used in English, western, 4-H,
ranch, trail riding, lessons, driving, roping, reining, cutting, racing, etc.?
___ What vices does he have, if any?
___ Does he load into a trailer? Does he stand tied?
___ Has the horse been stalled or is he a pasture horse?
___ Has he lived alone or with other horses?
___ If the horse is currently with a trader or trainer, who owned him
before? How long did they own him? Why are they selling the horse?
May I speak with the previous owner?
___ Does he have a current Coggins test? If not, are you willing to get the
horse tested?
___ Do you have someone at your place who will tack up and ride the
horse?
___ Do you have an enclosed arena or enclosed pasture where I can try
out the horse? If not, are you willing to take the horse to a public
arena, demonstrate riding him and allow me to ride him?
___ If I like the horse, will you hold him for a vet check for me?
lyte supplements to your horse’s particularly warm or hot weather. Of
feed. These supplements can help course, consult your veterinarian if
replenish essential nutrients during you have further questions.
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