The Italian Job: Heinz Beck

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Heinz Time
Beck for tea
Michelin Maestro The art of the
perfect brew

Oliver
Glowig
Top Chef

Nourish
Healthy eating

The best Julie


in business Watson
Our top 5 airlines The natural choice

THE VERY BEST OF ITALIAN STREET FOOD VOL 5 ISS 4

THE ITALIAN JOB


Bath Cathay Pacific Kerala Raspberries Australia
Editor Charlie Thompson
Associate Editor Ali Ahmed
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Editorial Director Arabia Anisa Al Hawaj
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Food and Travel, UK


Mark Sansom, editor
mark.sansom@foodandtravel.com
Food and Travel, Germany

I
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food, drink and travel. Every month we get up close and personal with some
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FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 3


25 56

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4 FOOD & TRAVEL

64
April 2018
ARRIVALS 44 Come fly with me Our top 5 92 Recipes This month’s collection
7 Arrivals Farzi Café, the modern business class airlines. We of mouth-watering recipes for
spice bistro from Zorawar Kalra, haven’t seen such high levels of you to try at home
offers global cuisine with a comfort and service since the
distinct Indian and Arabic twist, golden age of commercial DESTINATIONS
aviation in the 1950’s & 60’s
and a touch of molecular 52 Kerala Truly God’s Own Country
gastronomy 48 There’s no business, like
68 Bath time Discover slices of
8 News This month we visit the Cathay business We try the
culture and flavour in this
region’s latest places to stay rarefied business class service
picturesque English town – you
and eat on Cathay Pacific, undeniably
just need to know where to go.
one of the world’s leading airlines
Let Food and Travel be your guide
TALK 80 Walking on sunshine Hiking
FOOD
12 The interview We speak with through the Sunshine Coast’s
master of gastronomy, three 18 The pantry This month Clarissa verdant hinterland leads to
Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck Hyman celebrates raspberries – lichen-flecked rainforests, rock
who has firmly established his tart and sweet, these perfumed pools and retreats
unique style of casual fine-dining fruits pair beautifully with vanilla,
almonds, chocolate and even
in Dubai TRIED & TASTED
game
98 The last word with Julie 87 Nourish Affordable healthy
Watson - her career has taken 64 Time for tea - The Art of the
food, offered in beautifully unique
her from South Africa to Head Perfect Brew Tetley Master Tea
and convenient surroundings
Chef at Nourish, Dubai. Julie Blender Sebastian Michaelis took
time to speak with Food and 88 Places to eat The quest for
shares her vision of health and
Travel when he visited Dubai new foods and new flavours, the
wellness through food
recently discovery of new places & new
friends, the latest restaurants and
TRAVEL 74 The Italian job Street food in
the finest cooking
Italy can be traced back
25 2018 Bahrain Tourism 90 Places to stay Exciting destinations,
to Pompeii, where hawkers were
Awards See who has won the fabulous hotels, serving up the bes
immortalised in dust after the
accolade of Best in Bahrain the world has to offer
eruption of Mount Vesuvius

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 5


F
arzi Café, the modern spice bistro from Zorawar
Kalra, is celebrating its second anniversary. This
delightful outlet offers global cuisine with a distinct
Indian and Arabic twist, and a touch of molecular
gastronomy. The menu includes innovative twists on
Indian classics such as Smoked Beef Patthar Ke
Kabab; marinated and seared slices of tenderloin
served with Kashmiri walnut and wasabi cream
and Shawarma Biryani; crusted layered rice
biryani with grilled chicken served along with
fried egg, green chili curry and labneh raita.
The menu skilfully embraces Eastern flavours,
with the Farzi Mezze, a platter of duck
samosa, vin leaf sausage, fatayer falafel,
pita, mohamas, walnut and green apple
mohamarra hummus and chutney, whilst
the dessert selection showcases the
artistry and delicacy of the pastry
kitchen including Pear Baklava with
Pistachio Launji and Vanilla Bean
Ice Cream. Located at Citywalk
2, Dubai +971 4394 2556

New
Open daily from 10am – 11pm
farzicafe.ae

s an
d vi
ews
from
the
wor
lds
fooof
d an
d tr
ave
l

Farzi Café

7 FOOD & TRAVEL


Arrivals
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summit of Mount Ijen. A little closer to home, KE Adventure’s eight-day
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News from the worlds of food and travel

NAUMI AUCKLAND New Zealand


It’s time to bid farewell to claustrophobic pod-like vaults that masquerade as airport
hotels and say hello to the brand-new Naumi Auckland Airport. It’s great to see the
start of an upgrade to pre-flight lodgings and Naumi is leading the design- driven
charge when it comes to on-point airport overnighters. Pronounced ‘know-me’.
You’ll find it three kilometres down the road from the terminal, the benefit of the
distance revealing itself in the form of extra space within the boutiquey rooms and
landscaped gardens. A vibrant, playful style ripples throughout, and design by
Material Creative pays homage to the iridescent blue-green plumed tui bird, native
to the country. Expect bold colour flashes set against earthy tones, 24-carat gold
leafed walls, plenty of greenery and eclectic modern art: the tui’s song is captured
in Judi Bagust’s visual flurries, which hang over beds. Bathrooms are a geometric
dream of black, slate and gold with innovative fuschia, teal and cherry grouting.
Most of the 193 nest-like rooms feature patios or balconies and there’s an outdoor
pool to enjoy as well as restaurant Paska, offering Asian-inspired dishes that will set
you up for the flight ahead. naumihotels.com

AVIGNON FRANCE
Enjoy a break on the banks of the Rhône, in Avignon, a medieval city with a certain je ne
sais quoi. Start in the old town and get your bearings at the Palais des Papes – the austere
700-year-old site is the largest Gothic palace in Europe. Then have lunch at Christian Étienne.
The menu of one- star dishes is a snip at $450pp. christian-etienne.fr or potter around the
Rocher des Doms, an urban oasis that overlooks the remains of the medieval St-Bénézet
Bridge and River Rhône. Make like an Avignonais and take time out by its peacock-dotted
pond. It also has an on-site vineyard and bar where you can try local Côtes du Rhône. There
are great galleries here: Musée Angladon displays works by Picasso, Van Gogh and Degas,
while Collection Lambert is made for contemporary art fans. But the city’s best- kept secret is
the 50 or so trompe-l’oeil frescoes by Dominique Durand and Marion Pochy that adorn
buildings. musee-calvet.org collectionlambert.fr
A trip to France isn’t complete without sampling serious patisserie. Maison Jouvaud makes
some of the finest in Provence. Expect les cloches de Pâques (chocolate bells), elegant
cakes and tarts – try one with local apricots. Everything is beautifully packaged and they sell
très chic homewares. patisserie-jouvaud.com
Bed down at hotel La Mirande, close to the cathedral. It has all the trappings of a palace
hotel but comes in at around half the price of its Parisian equivalents. Its cooking school is led
by Alain Ducasse protégé Daniel Hébet. la-mirande.fr

8 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


ITALIAN STYLE DUBAI
GIA Dubai is the new Italian restaurant located at The New
Fashion Avenue at The Dubai Mall. Airy bright whites and a
palette of light colours add a touch of chic style to the dining
room, blending classy modernity with a twist of retro. Dine
Alfresco on the terrace, with its cosmopolitan elegance and
fantastic views of The Dubai Fountain, or try the intimate private
dining room for somewhere away from the spotlight, either way
this is a stylish, informal venue for any time of the day or night.
SPRING INTO THE CITY OF SPIRES Despite its contemporary feel, the cuisine reflects traditional
Czech Republic Italian ’trattoria’ style recipes. Hand-picked ingredients bring
It was 25 years ago that the Czech Republic parted peacefully genuine Italian heritage and flavour to the menu, especially
from Slovakia in a pact known as the ‘Velvet Divorce’. This year crafted by Tuscany’s own Tommaso Gonfiantini. The menu
the country, along with Slovakia, is celebrating its 100th pays homage to the classics, perfectly balancing the rustic
anniversary too, so visitors can expect the party to be in full with the avant-garde, offering ndulgent classics that are hard to
swing. Strolling across one of the medieval bridges which loop resist, such as the Lasagna, with a secret blend of cheese
the Vltava River in April is the best way to appreciate the place’s fondue, a range of signature appetizer including the Polpette Al
majesty. Prague sings in spring and it’s the best time to visit Sugo, slow cooked Wagyu beef meatballs in a fresh tomato
before the summer hordes arrive. Enjoy the gentle charm sauce; Fegatini Di Pollo and Parmigiana Di Melanzane. Mains
of hidden gardens shaded by tulip trees, and a litre or two of feature Ossobuco E Risotto Alla Milanese, veal shank and
Pilsner Urquell on Little Square as you watch city life roll on by. bone marrow with a saffron risotto, Branzino de Sale, a salt
In April, Old Town Square hosts its annual Easter Market. It’s a encrusted and slow roasted sea bass dish perfect for sharing,
visual feast of painted eggs and flower garlands with a backdrop and of course freshly prepared pasta and pizza. And to finish
of baroque buildings painted in sorbet hues. Farmers’ markets your meal, Chef Tommaso has kept the deserts nostalgic, yet
begin again in earnest, too, as crops rise from their slumber. Try full of flavour, with a traditional Tiramisu Classico, Baba Ai Frutti
Naplavka for white indigenous asparagus, Holešovice, to Di Bosco and Profiteroles Nutella & Nocciole. Tel: +971 4 234
mingle with muddy-fisted farmers punting their wares of 9986
beautifully aged pork and Jirák for regional snacks such as wild
garlic and butter on wedges of fresh bread. On 30 April, locals
celebrate Pálení Carodejnic (Witches’ Night), a pagan farewell
to winter’s evil spirits. From 7pm, the gothic streets around St
Nicholas Church are haunted by ghouls, ghosts and gremlins,
who parade to Kampa Park to burn witch effigies. Watch the
procession from the roof terrace of the Domus Henrici hotel
domus-henrici.cz – a top-value option in a medieval building
which was once owned by Emperor Rudolf II. L’Fleur lfleur.cz
on V Kolkovne in the Old Town, channels the atmosphere
of Jazz Age Paris with its flickering chandeliers and
enormous bubbly list. The dining scene is also developing
rapidly. Michelin-starred restaurant Field fieldrestaurant.
cz is our dinner pick, serving up traditional produce
such as pike perch and verjus reimagined in
contemporary dishes, while Kantýna kantyna.ambi.cz
is the place to go for a quick lunch. This former
Ringhoffer bank reopened last year as a temple to
Czech meat, incorporating several butchers’ shops and
an excellent steak house. prague.eu
BEACH CHIC Ras al Khaimah
Located on the shores of the Arabian Gulf, a short drive from the urban sprawl of Dubai,
The Ritz-Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Hamra Beach is the perfect getaway, seamlessly
blending natural beauty and timeless luxury to create an intimate beach retreat. The resort
features 32 luxurious tented villas, each with its own pool and direct beach access,
offering comfort and privacy complemented by breath-taking views and indulgent
amenities. Two villa types are available: the Al Naseem Villas featuring designs inspired
by traditional Bedouin architecture, which offer an elevated level of seclusion, while the
Al Bahar Villas include open views and private beachfront access. Discover the natural
beauty of the area with an afternoon of paddle boarding, a fishing trip on the coast of Ras
Al Khaimah, a sunrise or sunset yoga experience overlooking the seashores, or simply
relax on the resort’s private beach. Young guests can enjoy the Ritz Kids® program,
where they can explore the beachfront, gain a better understanding of the marine life
through educating yet fun beach activities, or develop their inner artist with beach-inspired
arts and crafts. The Ritz-Carlton Spa offers holistic treatments in the comfort of dedicated
treatment pavilions; and two fitness centres are available 24 hours a day.
The culinary scene offers a tempting array of fresh seafood and cuisines prepared with
a local twist alongside tranquil sea views from the resort’s signature Shore House restaurant.
And for those of you who want a more private dinner experience can dine on the beachfront,
in a secluded beach cabana overlooking the crystal blue waters of the Arabian Gulf.
www.ritzcarlton.com

FLIGHT OR FRIGHT UAE


Ras Al Khaimah’s new Jebel Jais zip-line has flown into the
Guinness World Records to be crowned the world’s longest
zip- flight. Launch from a height of 1,680m, hitting speeds of
93mph as you whizz 2.83km over the UAE’s tallest mountain
peak. Only the brave need apply. $180pp. toroverdeuae.com

DOLCE VITA BRUNCH ABU DHABI


Cipriani Yas Island presents its ‘Dolce Vita’ brunch experience.
Served once a month, traditional Italian delicacies and free flowing
bubbles await you. The new brunch menu is built around simple
Italian food made to perfection, blended with offerings from the
popular Japanese inspired Yotto menu and of course Cipriani’s
outstanding hospitality. Savour a selection of fine appetisers, rich
main courses and irresistible desserts, all prepared to be shared and
served, directly to the table. In addition, a live sushi chef prepares
exquisite specialities. To begin, appetisers encompass an array of
Maki and Cipriani signature favourites including, Burrata with Cherry
Tomato and “Taggiashe Olives”, Calamari Fritti with Tartar Sauce, and
Aubergine Parmigiana, Vitello Tonnato. Mains include Lightly Baked
Taglionlini Cipriani with Veal Ragu, Chicken alla Milanese or Grilled
Salmon Teriyaki. To finish an array of delectable desserts include,
Cipriani cakes, fresh sorbets and indulgent ice creams.
With seasonal changing menus and touches including live artisan
mixology for the spirited occasion, the all-Italian team present the
hottest new brunch offering in town. The Cipriani Yas Island ‘Dolce
Vita’ Brunch takes place once a month from 1pm to 5pm. Upcoming
dates include April 13 & May 11. Prices start at $120pp. For more
information visit www.ciprianiyasisland.com or call +971 265 75 400

10 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


12 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
THE INTERVIEW

H E IBN Z
ECK
Master of gastronomy, three
Michelin-starred chef Heinz Beck
has firmly established his unique
casual fine-dining in Dubai
hen sitting down with Heinz Beck to discuss his storied

W culinary career it does not take long to fully appreciate his


unrelenting drive and intense work ethic. In Dubai for just
two days to deliver a seven-course menu at his signature restaurant,
Social at the Waldorf Astoria, the acclaimed chef has barely stepped
outside the kitchen, let alone the front door of the hotel.
But this is normal practice for the German-born chef who has
taken Italian cuisine to new heights. For more than two decades he
has worked night and day to help La Pergola achieve and maintain
three Michelin stars. For Beck, a day off is a rarity and a holiday is
taken just once in a blue moon.
“You know a very interesting man said once that if you do
something you love then you will never work a day in your life,” Beck
says during a brief moment outside the kitchen. “I am never crying
about hours spent in the kitchen or working. I am never thinking
about having more time off. I don’t care about it.

“For Beck, a day off is a rarity and a


holiday is taken just once in a blue moon.”
“The day’s where I work less it is like 16 hours and I tend to work
seven days a week. My last day off was August 27 and my next is
December 25.
“You know from 1984 until 1991 I didn’t even have a vacation.
But I didn’t even think about it as I was working the whole time.
There was never really time for a holiday. It was the same from ’91 to
’99, I didn’t have a vacation either. But it was okay, it never entered
my mind and it didn’t bother me at all.”
As you would expect then, a two-day trip to Dubai is not viewed
as a holiday. And while Beck may have been working on his seven-
course menu for a number of months, once he arrived he rarely
spends a moment outside of Social’s kitchen.
“I don’t have time to try other restaurants or do anything else
really. I come here to Dubai for two days and for two days I stay in
the kitchen,” reveals Beck. “When I am here I have to stay with my
staff and work with them. We work on new dishes, new menus and
new concepts. So two days is almost nothing.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 13


THE INTERVIEW
HEINZ BECK

This spread, clockwise: Lobster medallions; Smoked scallop


tartare and red beet shell; Amberjack; Heinz Beck in the kitchen
at Social; Lamb rack.

“We work for five months on creating something new in order for
it to be perfect. But of course you have to be prepared for things to
go wrong. Take this meal for example, we are having to change two
of the seven dishes because of problems with suppliers. So just
one hour before the meal we are making changes.”
This is the kind of scenario that Beck thrives in. Even some 37
years after first entering the kitchen, he loves the challenges that
present themselves on an almost daily basis. It is obvious that he
adores his work, so it is somewhat surprising to hear that food was
not his first love.
“I didn’t want to become a chef at all, I actually wanted to be
a painter,” says Beck. “But my father didn’t want me to go to art
college as he saw it more as a hobby.
“He actually wanted me to study something serious, like
economics or business. In the end the first job I found was working
in a kitchen and at 16 that allowed me to leave home. Even since
then I have been in the kitchen.”
The art world’s loss has certainly been the culinary world’s gain
with Beck earning an impressive array of awards and accolades
over the past three decades.
Having quickly discovered that he had a natural talent when it
came to cooking, his artistic nature also meant he could create
dishes of rare beauty.
“If you look at my dishes you will see that I am working with forms
and colours,” he says. “Of course I’m very much into beauty and
for this, the fact that I wanted to be a painter, for sure I am doing
this as a chef.

14 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


“We work for five months on
creating something new in order for
it to be perfect.”
“I found a way to express myself and I am very happy to have
become a chef. It was not easy in the beginning, but I am very
happy I chose to work in that first kitchen.”
Beck does still love to paint, and he proudly produces images of
his latest creation which can be found in a small art gallery in Italy.
But the time restraints he places on himself make it impossible for
him to have a dual career as an artist and a chef.
Instead he remains firmly focused on creating new dishes
and helping La Pergola maintain it’s status as one of Italy’s finest
restaurants. But having been head chef at the restaurant since
1994, was he not ever tempted to leave once the three stars were
awarded?
“No, never. I like Rome, I like my staff, I married a Sicilian. Why
should I leave? I am not the type of person to think about what
comes next,” admits Beck.
“To be honest I thought I would only be there for two years. It
seemed a great way to learn a new language and a new culture.
Now it is 23 years later and I couldn’t imagine being anywhere else.”
Much has changed for Beck since he made the move to Rome.
He started with a small team of cooks who were simply hoping to
create good food. Then when recognition started to come their way,
the objectives changed and now they take great pride in making
sure Michelin does not take away their stars.
“You don’t really think about success, it just happens,” he says.
“When we first started my first brigade was five in the kitchen, four
plus me. And when we got our first star it was that team.”
“Even when we got the second there was just six of us. And with
the third there was only eight. Now there is 22 people and we are
much more settled. We have our awards and we work to make sure
we will not lose them for a very long time.
“But perhaps most important is that we are still busy. For 21 years
the restaurant has been fully booked. There is not one single day
that there has been a spare seat. So these are the real rewards as
the restaurant is not small.”
Keeping the restaurant busy for more than two decades is no
easy task but Beck’s insatiable desire to create means the food is

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 15


THE INTERVIEW
HEINZ BECK

This page: Fagotelli Carbonara; Social by Heinz Beck dining room;


Heinz Beck in at the Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah

“When we first started my first


brigade was five in the kitchen, four
plus me. And when we got our first star
it was that team.”
always evolving.
“You see me now with the boys, we are changing something
every single day,” says Beck. “I hope it will last, that I still do new
things and have new ideas. The day I have nothing else to say will
be the day I retire.”
Fortunately that day seems a long way in the future. It is
impossible to imagine Beck being anywhere but in the kitchen and
that is thanks in large to the role played by his wife, Teresa.
The pair met in Italy and have become partners in every way.
Teresa not only shares her husband’s love for food, but also his
incredible work ethic.
“I can tell you she does not take days off either,” says Beck. “The
company is Beck and Maltesa and we are running everything. It
is 14 restaurants worldwide. You have to think about how much all of the administration and the logistics. It’s quite a different set up
Images: Waldorf Astoria, F&TA; iStock

logistic, administrative and financial work that is. to all these famous chefs,” he adds.
“I was very happy I met my wife as she made the company “They have a company and are running the business for lots of
happen. Every day she has statistics and numbers and every day I people. For us it is different, the company is just the CEO, Teresa
come home and we have a briefing. I am married now for 17 years and one operational manager, Heinz, that is it.
and I have never found her in pyjamas or in bed. And I come home “I do the operation part and I know we will open something soon
Words: Adrian Back

late, normally around 2am.” in Milan but don’t ask me more because I don’t make the deals.
So while Heinz is the creative force, it seems it is Teresa who That is purely Teresa. I don’t think ahead at all.”
has the head for business. And with such demand for Beck’s Clearly the partnership is working well and the pair’s ravenous
food, there are always those interested in working with the appetite for work means we will likely be seeing much more from
husband and wife team. Heinz Beck. And for food lovers around the world, that can only
“All of the work is through Teresa. She makes the strategies, does be a good thing.

16 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


Pantry
THE

PHOTOGRAPHY AND PROP STYLING: ANGELA DUKES


RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: LINDA TUBBY

18 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


Raspberries
KEY IN G RED IENT:

MACERATED RASPBERRIES;
RASPBERRY SAUCE;
RASPBERRY DRESSING;
RASPBERRY AND LEMON
THYME VINEGAR
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

o give someone a raspberry is a fragility and an intermingling of both tart and beautiful perfume that stamps the berry,

T delicate, poetic, Jane Austen-esque


gesture: to blow them one, however,
is something else altogether. It seems
sweet juices. The flavour shot is intense. As
a wise woman once said, nobody can be
insulted by raspberries and cream.
according to writer Waverley Root, as
‘Made in Asia’. The finest raspberries of
antiquity were said to have been found on
curious that the fruit has attracted such a On the other hand, some people simply Mount Ida in Turkey, which accounts for the
vulgar double meaning, but it is true the cannot get over the seeds. They get stuck botanical name, rubus idaeus.
raspberry induces both delight and distress. in their teeth. They are rough and raspy in Raspberries are said to have been
The latter, in food circles at least, is largely the mouth. Such fussy types insist on around since prehistoric times but were
on account of a design fault – its seeds. sieving them out when making jam, a only widely cultivated in Europe during the
To fans such as myself they are barely wimpish move that, to my mind, strips the 16th century. At this time they were mostly
noticeable and, when so, are part of the fruit of character. cooked or used as the basis for cordials
berry’s unique charm. Exquisite in shape Believed to originate in the east, and drinks, as fresh fruit was commonly
and colour, the fruits possess a captivating raspberries have a rich, exotic look and regarded as harmful to the digestive system.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 19


THE PANTRY

SWEET RASPBERRY,
CUCUMBER AND |
MINT TABOULI
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

The Old English name for raspberry was drupelets clustered tightly around a central July. Glen Moy is also regarded as a
‘raspis’, connected possibly to ‘raspise’, a core. When ripe, the small, cup- like fruit connoisseur’s choice: the Royal Horticultural
sweet, rose-coloured wine. It was also comes away from this solid centre, which Society has given the fruit its Award of
once called a ‘hindberry’, its leaves loved remains as a hard, white cone on the stem. Garden Merit. Heritage Red is a late-fruiting
by female red deer (hinds). Uncultivated It makes the picking easy, and the berry with excellent flavour that also makes
fruit has an outstanding flavour, so canes consumption easier still. good jam, as does Tulameen, but the
(cuttings with a piece of root) taken from the Raspberry cultivation is not especially dif mainstay is Autumn Bliss. As gardener
wild are often planted by horticulturalists cult: it is more about a need for space than Sarah Raven notes, the good thing about
and crossed to improve yield and disease constant care. The main thing to consider is autumn berries is you don’t have to net; at
resistance. But its natural habitat is damp that once a cane has fruited, the whole this time of year, birds have plenty of choice
woods, and it likes a cooler climate. Some branch dies and should be cut away to of feed.
of the best commercial raspberries in Britain allow new canes to rise from the base. Red is the usual colour, but there are also
are grown around Blairgowrie in Perthshire. Different varieties crop at different times: white, yellow and golden raspberries. Tart
The raspberry is a richly coloured, Glen Ample is the most widely grown, with black ones, which are known as Black
triangular fruit, with velvety, slightly hairy the extra-large berries appearing throughout Caps, are common in the Eastern US and

20 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


THE PANTRY

ROSE AND RASPBERRY


PANNA COTTA WITH FAIRY
FLOSS AND ROSE PETALS

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 21


THE PANTRY

RASPBERRY AND
COCONUT SEMIFREDDO

RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

Canada, and are good for cooking, juicing Paul Hollywood uses the fresh fruit in cinnamon, chocolate and red wine, but
and country wine. Danish pastries, Peter Gordon suggests also works with poultry and game.
In summer and autumn, look for firm, dry folding them into a mix of cream, yoghurt Raspberry vinegar was once a popular
berries with a good colour. They’re best and honey to make an easy honey fool remedy for sore throats or as a basis for
when fully ripened on the cane and are pudding, while Eric Lanlard adds basil to summer drinks diluted with soda. It came
highly perishable, so avoid punnets stained the berries to boost their flavour in an back into vogue with the fashion for nouvelle
with juice: this is a sign the fruit is past its intriguing baked raspberry and basil tart. cuisine in the latter years of the 20th
best. Don’t buy ones that are damaged, Raspberries are a quintessential fruit of century, and it still has its place in the
shrivelled or have brown spots, and try to summer, part of seasonal pleasures such repertoire of marinades and salad dressings.
use them on the day you buy them. as pavlova, peach Melba, raspberry And if you’re still worried about those
If you can resist eating them ‘au natural’, cranachan and summer pudding. Their pesky seeds, I can only use the
there are endless ways to prepare them. flavour pairs with almonds, honey, vanilla, F-word. Floss.

22 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


FOOD FOCUS

RASPBERRY AND WHITE


CHOCOLATE BAKED
CHEESECAKE

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 23


BOOK A LUXURY ROOM WITH
GRAND SEA VIEW INCLUSIVE OF
BREAKFAST, LUNCH & DINNER
FOR 2
Complimentary Full Board for children
below 12 years old, up to 2 per room.
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OFFER VALID UNTIL 30TH APRIL 2018.


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SOFITEL BAHRAIN ZALLAQ THALASSA SEA & SPA


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TEL. +973 17 63 63 63 - FAX. +973 17 63 63 64
EMAIL: H6722@SOFITEL.COM - WEBSITE: WWW.SOFITEL.COM/6722
FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 25
“To the winners my congratulations,
to the finalists well done and if at first
you don’t succeed, try, try again
– because you will get better and
better with every day.”
- Paul Bocuse

CATEGORIES • THAI CUISINE


TOP TABLE: • CHINESE CUISINE
• CARÊME AWARD • JAPANESE
• EXECUTIVE CHEF CUISINE
OF THE YEAR • CONTEMPORARY
• CHEF OF THE INDIAN CUISINE
YEAR • ASIAN FUSION
• RESTAURANT OF CUISINE
THE YEAR • FINE DINING
• HOTEL OF YEAR AWARD
We called and you answered in your millions to help
us choose the best of the best for the 2018 Food RESTAURANTS: HOTELS:
and Travel Bahrain Awards. So a big thank you to all • BREAKFAST • 4 STAR HOTEL
those who helped make it happen. From the initial call • AFTERNOON TEA • 4 STAR RESORT
for nominations back in February to the gala awards • RAMADAN TENT • FAMILY RESORT
FHUHPRQ\WKDWZDVKHOGDW+RWHO6RÀWHO%DKUDLQRQ • BRUNCH • CITY HOTEL
20th March 2018, it was a journey of epic proportions. • BEACH CHIC • BUSINESS HOTEL
The results were closer than we could ever have • FAMILY • WEEKEND
imagined and our expert panel once again had a RESTAURANT DESTINATION
hard time in picking the winners in some categories. • RISING STAR HOTEL
The gala dinner was a packed affair with a stunning • HEALTHY DINING • 5 STAR RESORT
PHDOIURPWKHDPD]LQJWHDPDW6RÀWHODQGDVSHFLDO • ALL DAY CASUAL HOTEL
thanks to all our sponsors for their support and vision • ON THE TOWN • 5 STAR HOTEL
throughout the year. Read on to see who won the • CASUAL CHIC
coveted Food and Travel gongs... • STEAKHOUSE & OTHER
GRILL CATEGORIES:
Salah Alhaiki, Executive Director • INTERNATIONAL • LOCAL PRODUCE
CUISINE CHAMPION
• CONTEMPORARY • SPECIALIST
CLASSIC CUISINE RETAILER
• MIDDLE EASTERN • ARTISAN FOOD
CUISINE • BANQUETING
• MEDITERRANEAN • SPA
CUISINE
• INDIAN CLASSIC
CUISINE

26 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018

HOTEL OF THE YEAR


A worthy winner amongst top
competition

Swiss-Belhotel Seef
Swiss-Belhotel Seef Bahrain punches well above its
weight; a 4-star international hotel that provides excellent
facilities and high standards of service, located in Bahrain’s
central business and commercial district and only a
20-minute drive from Bahrain International Airport and
ideally convenient for both Seef and Bahrain City Centre
Mall. The guest rooms and public areas boast breath-
taking panoramic ocean and city views. The hotel has a
wide range of facilities, including large guest rooms and
suites, a fully equipped gymnasium and pool area, as
well as extensive banquet and specialty dining venues,
delivering a truly welcoming environment for both business
and leisure travellers.
swiss-belhotel.com

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR


A restaurant for your bucket list

CUT by Wolfgang Puck


Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay

The critically acclaimed CUT by Wolfgang Puck, widely


recognized as one of the top steak restaurants in the world,
is located in the Four Seasons Bahrain Bay. Entrance is via a
dramatic spiral staircase from the lounge & bar below, taking
you into sleek modern décor of this tribute to fine meats and
beyond. The menu features a vast array of the finest beef
and produce available; from prime dry and wet-aged beef
to shellfish sautéed and roasted whole fresh fish. Diners are
treated to a view of the international celebrity chef’s state-
of-the-art kitchen and a striking panorama that extends over
the pool, across the Hotel’s lush grounds to the sparkling
vista of the Manama skyline.
fourseasons.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 27


CHEF OF THE YEAR
We honour a chef who’s
passion and dedication
shines through. Step forward
the man of the moment...

Brian Becher
CUT by Wolfgang Puck –
Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay
The panel spent a great deal of time debating, what was
another very close call and probably one of the most
difficult decision of the awards. Chef Brian’s evident
passion and unbridled talents have helped to keep
Wolfgang Puck’s exceptional restaurants in the Four
Seasons at the head of a very talented pack. We look
forward to seeing more from this exceptional chef.
fourseasons.com

INTERNATIONAL
CHEF OF THE YEAR
What more can we say
about this legend of French
cuisine...

Christian Knerr
Ritz-Carlton Bahrain
Chef Christian was first exposed to the culinary world
at the age of 16 through an internship training program
in Reit im Winkl in Germany. He joined The Ritz-Carlton,
Bahrain from the world-renowned Harrods London, where
he served as the Executive Chef of the entire mall culinary
operations. Prior to Harrods, Christian has a wealth of
international experience including the Executive Chef at the
pre-opening phase of the InterContinental Hotels Group
in Dubai Festival City. And the pre-opening team at the
Fairmont Raffles Hotel in Manila.
ritzcarlton.com

28 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018

THE CARÊME AWARD


What more can we say about
this legend of Italian cuisine,
who receives this award for
his outstanding contribution
to the industry
Oliver Glowig
Ritz-Carlton Bahrain

Chef Oliver Glowig earned his first Michelin Star at the


‘Acquarello’ restaurant in Munich in 2001 before departing to
follow his passion for Italian food at the Capri Palace on Italy’s
Amalfi coast. In 2010 this accomplished chef set his sights on
Rome to showcase his unique take on classic Italian cuisine,
very quickly earning two Michelin stars for his eponymous
restaurant at the chic Hotel Aldrovandi Villa Borghese, with its
breath-taking views overlooking the Eternal City.
www.oliverglowig.com ritzcarlton.com

BEST 5 STAR HOTEL


It just keeps winning ...

Four Seasons Resort

An architectural icon on its own exclusive island, Four Seasons


Hotel Bahrain Bay towers on the north-eastern waterfront
of Manama, capital city of Bahrain. Unparalleled in design,
this 68-storey tower is an urban hotel with a resort-style
atmosphere. The 273 guest rooms and suites are enhanced
by six restaurants and bars, including outlets from superstar
chef Wolfgang Puck, a spa and five swimming experiences.
fourseasons.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 29


BEST 5 STAR RESORT HOTEL

Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain

The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain is a sophisticated and elegant


resort close to the city, yet far enough away to retain its
serene atmosphere. Set amongst lush gardens and sandy
beaches the hotel provides a lavish welcome. Whether you
choose to stay in the main hotel or one of the secluded
villas, try one of the many fine restaurants or relax in the spa,
the Ritz-Carlton will cosset you in luxury every moment of
your stay.
ritzcarlton.com

BEST WEEKEND
DESTINATION HOTEL

Hotel Sofitel Bahrain

Located on the pristine waters of Zallaq and with the only


spa on the island dedicated to thalassotherapy, and every
room boasting a sea view. French hospitality combined with
elements of Arabian décor and a definite focus on luxury,
resonate an opulent style in every space. The hotel boasts
some of the best restaurants on the island making it a
culinary destination in its own right.
sofitel.com

30 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018

BEST BUSINESS HOTEL

InterContinental Regency Bahrain

Modern-classic design meets timeless hospitality at this luxury


Bahrain hotel. Conveniently located in Manama Centre, close
to the Bahrain World Trade Centre and its elegant shopping
mall, across from Bahrain Financial Harbour, easy access for
City Centre Mall and just a short stroll from Manama Souk,
this luxurious hotel features stylish rooms, suites and butler
service, stunning views and an array of places to eat and
drink. Let the expert team at the Regency indulge your every
need throughout your stay.
Ihg.com

BEST CITY HOTEL

Westin City Centre Bahrain

Ideally located in the heart of Manama, The Westin Bahrain


City Centre is the first-ever Westin Hotel to grace the island.
Thoughtfully devised with a host of novel and innovative
facilities, guests are afforded the opportunity to sample the
unique Westin feel-good promise when staying for business
or leisure. The Westin is attached to City Centre Bahrain, the
island’s most popular retail and leisure destination with more
than 340 retail stores. One of the hotel’s two entrances leads
directly to the mall’s ground floor, and is a few steps away
from the luxurious Saks Fifth Avenue department store.
www.westinbahraincitycentre.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 31


BEST FAMILY RESORT

ART Rotana

Reminiscent of the iconic Jumeirah Beach Hotel the ART


Rotana provides a tranquil and secluded ocean front oasis,
with a private beach that enjoys the gently lapping warm
waters of the Gulf. All of the 311 luxurious rooms and
suites are ocean facing; and with a wide array of 5 Star
luxuries, the hotel is an ideal haven for families, couples
and business travellers alike. The hotel enjoys a wide
range of restaurants and bars, and facilities that are sure to
make any stay a special experience.
rotana.com

BEST 4 STAR RESORT

Elite Resort & Spa

Tucked away just off the Sheikh Hamad Causeway, Elite


Resort & Spa offers a haven of tranquillity and relaxation.
This resort has magnificent views of Bahrain Bay, and
features spacious modern suites complete with the latest
amenities including a fully fitted kitchen, a home theatre
system with surround-sound and stereo DVD. Elite Resort
& Spa promises a great escape in the heart of the city.
elitegrouphotels.com

32 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018

BEST 4 STAR HOTEL

Swiss-Belhotel

Once again a worthy winner. Swiss-Belhotel Seef Bahrain


provides excellent facilities and high standards of service.
The hotel has a wide range of facilities, a fully equipped
gymnasium and pool area, as well as extensive banquet
and specialty dining venues; the hotel provides varied
accommodation, dining and meeting facilities to ensure a
truly welcoming environment for both business and leisure
travellers.
swiss-belhotel.com

BEST RESIDENCE

The Diplomat Radisson BLU Hotel,


Residence & Spa

Located in the heart of Manama’s business and diplomatic


area, the Diplomat Radisson has an impressive lobby. The
residence has large, sea-facing rooms that are understated
and tasteful. The hotel also offers a gym with sauna, steam
room and Jacuzzi, a swimming pool, squash courts, floodlit
tennis courts, a spa and a choice of beautifully designed
restaurants and bars.
www.radissonblu.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 33


BEST SPA

Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay

The Spa at the Four Seasons is a well-deserved winner in


a hotly contended category. The Spa encompasses four
interconnected buildings woven together with pathways
and gardens with modern design filled with natural light,
reflecting modern Moroccan and Turkish influences.
Treatments, including a signature Bahrain massage, are
inspired with traditional healing therapies from Asia, India
and the Middle East, making it the perfect place to relax
and experience sheer indulgence.
fourseasons.com

BEST BANQUETING

ART Rotana

Elegant and modern, ART Rotana offers an exquisite


venue to commemorate any celebration event. The
Thuraya ballroom welcomes you with impeccable style:
private reception area, incredible menu options and
seamless service. The hotel caters to both small and large
events, live entertainment, beautiful table decorations,
with indoor or outdoor locations suitable for all events and
occasions.
rotana.com

34 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018

FINE DINING AWARD

Primavera
Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain

Offering an inspired twist on the Trattoria Moderna style,


chef Oliver Glowig’s menu successfully marries the best of
authentic Italian cooking with local flavours and ingredients,
delivering a refreshing gastronomic experience for the
discerning diner. The sophisticated charm of the discreet
Italian décor provides an inviting ambiance to enjoy the re-
interpreted signature dishes of chef Oliver. A visit to Primavera
is truly memorable epicurean experience.
ritzcarlton.com

ASIAN FUSION CUISINE

Re Asian Cuisine | Wolfgang Puck


Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay

Sitting in the serene and simple art-deco elegance of re Asian


Cuisine, you can see the Wolfgang Puck touch everywhere,
from the mouth-watering culinary treasures of his innovative
Asian cuisine to the understated luxury and personal service;
matched by only by the sweeping vista of the Bahrain skyline
commanded by the 50th floor restaurant. Let your senses
take you for a gourmet journey.
fourseasons.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 35


CONTEMPORARY
INDIAN CUISINE

Rasoi by Vineet
The Gulf Hotel
Watch the talented chefs at work as you dine in the
elegant comfort of this chic restaurant. With a verve
to excel, an innate desire to make a statement, and
boundless energy, chef Vineet serves the best of India
on every plate; enjoy a heart-warming adventure through
his modern re-telling of India’s favourite dishes. Enjoy the
contrast in textures & flavours of imaginative dishes that
will delight your palate.
gulfhotelbahrain.com

JAPANESE CUISINE

Mirai

This long-established innovative Japanese restaurant


shows that you can stick with success. The trendy
restaurant has a relaxed in-vogue ambience and is the
ideal setting for a relaxing lunch or night on the town. Let
the intricate flavours dance over your taste-buds as you
savour the modern interpretation of fine Japanese cuisine.
mirai- restaurant.com

36 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018

INDIAN CLASSIC CUISINE

Nirvana
Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain
The very name ‘Nirvana’ is evocative of the essence of
India and immediately prepares your senses for something
special as you soak up the opulent décor and sophisticated
atmosphere, as modern chic blends seamlessly with age-
old tradition in this restaurant. Complex flavours and delicate
aromas slowly engulf your senses as you savour the delights
of the fragrant dishes.
ritzcarlton.com

STEAKHOUSE & GRILL

CUT by Wolfgang Puck


Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay

The critically restaurant is widely recognized as one of the top


steak restaurants in the world, is located in the Four Seasons
Bahrain Bay. Entry is via a dramatic spiral staircase from the
lounge & bar below, taking you into the sleek modern décor
of this tribute to fine meats and beyond.
fourseasons.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 37


MEDITERRANEAN CONTEMPORARY
CUISINE CLASSIC CUISINE

Masso La Vinoteca Barcelona


The Palace Boutique Hotel

An established favourite of the Adliya dining set chef Susy Enjoy a little piece of Iberia at La Vinoteca Barcelona, a stylish
Masseti brings her own unique style and passion to Masso. and relaxed restaurant that celebrates the passionate culture
Sitting beside the Palace Boutique Hotel, Masso has and gastronomy of Spain with a selection of Mediterranean
become one of the go-to places; the décor complements the tapas and signature dishes prepared from quality produce by
innovative Italian cuisine. Spanish chefs.
massorestaurant.com vinotecabcn.com

MIDDLE EASTERN
CUISINE THAI CUISINE

Golestan Iranian Restaurant Royal Thai


Sheraton Bahrain Hotel The Gulf Hotel

Situated in the Sheraton Hotel this authentic Iranian restaurant The décor of the large restaurant has an authentic Asian feel,
offers appetizing, delicately flavoured specialties and fresh to accompany some of the best Thai cuisine available in
home-baked breads. Golestan combines a fusion of classic Bahrain.
Iranian style with contemporary elements in a magnificent gulfhotelbahrain.com
setting. Golestan imbues the greatest of Persian arts,
hospitality coupled with delicious dining makes any visit a
memorable experience.
www.golestanbahrain.com

38 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018
INTERNATIONAL
CUISINE ON THE TOWN

Cantina Khalo Bushido


Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain

Chef Cesar De Leon Torres brings a wealth of talent and Bushido has an opulent and refined décor, juxtaposed to
his authentic Mexican cuisine to the Ritz-Carlton Bahrain; the blend of world lounge music, which slowly evolves
mouth-watering traditional dishes, impressive cocktails into a more dynamic ethno-house style as the night
and Mexican chic decor provide a genuinely vibrant progresses; and its cuisine sets a benchmark for the
atmosphere. Japanese restaurant scene in Bahrain.
ritzcarlton.com bushido.com.bh

CASUAL CHIC CHINESE CUISINE

La Mer David’s Stir Fry Crazy


+RWHO6RðWHO%DKUDLQ

Perched on a jetty jutting out into the waters of the Arabian Since opening his doors 7 years ago, David’s has become
Gulf, La Mer instinctively invites you to eat on the deck a firm favourite with both locals and visitors alike; serving
and enjoy the gentle strains of the waves lapping beneath the finest of traditional and contemporary Chinese cuisine,
you as you enjoy a much-anticipated gastronomic treat. complemented some tasty culinary delights from across
Or eat inside and bask in the dining room imbued with a the Orient.
refined serenity of warm tones hewn from nature. La Mer is stirfrycrazy.com
definitely worth the drive to Zallaq.
sofitel.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 39


ALL DAY CASUAL RISING STAR

Nomad Eatery Asia de Cuba

Located at the Courtyard in Seef this home-grown stylish Located at Gallery 21 in Bahrain’s famous Block 338, Asia
all-day destination brings its own class to Bahrain. The de Cuba has been making waves ever since it opened. The
designer décor is perfectly matched by an eclectic menu that internationally renowned Chino-Latino restaurant, lounge
has something for everyone. The attention to detail, eclectic brings its own unique culinary twist; the innovative menu,
décor, and appealing menu make Nomad Eatery a must visit created by Cuban-born Executive Chef Luis Pous, brings that
destination at any time of day. perfect marriage of Asian and Latin flavours and techniques.
instagram.com/nomadeatery asiadecuba.com

HEALTHY DINING FAMILY RESTAURANT

Baker & Spice Café Lilou

The local outpost of bakery and restaurant chain Baker and Always a favourite of visitors to Bahrain, Café Lilou conjures
Spice is located in Al Aali Mall. The chic modern minimalism up the essence of an early twentieth century Parisian
offers a clean and simple space where the food is the star brasserie, with its opulent décor. Café Lilou offers something
attraction. In addition to its much-loved speciality artisan for the whole family. Visit Café Lilou at Adliya, Seef or Riffa
breads and pastries, the restaurant also serves its local, Views.
organic and homemade and wholesome classic and www.alghalia.com
signature dishes to provide healthy and fresh options to its
customers.
www.bakerandspiceme.com

40 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


BAHRAIN AWARDS 2018

ARTISAN FOOD BEST BRUNCH

Maya La Chocolaterie Bahrain Bay Kitchen


Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay

Luxury confectioner Maya La Chocolaterie has established Located in the Lower Lobby of the 68-storey tower this
itself as one of the regions leaders in the art of fine lively indoor-outdoor restaurant features an incredible
chocolates and sweet treats, skilfully crafted in to a Friday brunch; a special dining experience for the whole
cacophony of rich yet subtle flavours are the hallmark family.
of this fine emporium. Enjoy lovingly created a designer- fourseasons.com
selection of hand-crafted chocolates.
www.maya-la-chocolaterie.com

BEACH CHIC BEST RAMADAN TENT

La Plage Hotel Sofitel Bahrain


Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain

Located between the pool and the white sands of the Undoubtedly one of the best Ramadan Tents in Bahrain,
beach at Bahrain’s iconic Ritz-Carlton, La Plage is the offering not only consistently great quality and service, but
perfect spot for those seeking the vibrant al fresco dining, also a wide variety of mouth-watering dishes. An ideal way
with stunning views of the Arabian Gulf. to break the fast for the whole family.
ritzcarlton.com sofitel.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 41


BEST AFTERNOON LOCAL PRODUCE
TEA CHAMPION

The Orangery Tearoom & Pâtisserie Alosra Supermarket


Palace Boutique Hotel

The charming tea-room and patisserie exudes a Alosra has built a well-deserved reputation for freshness,
quintessentially Laura Ashley-esque Englishness. quality and customer service; by working closely with
Comfortable sofas, inviting armchairs, neo-classical local communities and suppliers to provide a wide range
Nash style décor lead on to a terrace overlooking the of local sustainable produce. You will find the freshest
serenity and charm of its secret garden. Open all day from locally grown vegetables, fish and dairy products alongside
breakfast until 10pm you are spoilt for choice. home-baked breads and pastries – and if you are too busy
orangeryme.com to visit the store then let Alosra visit you, delivering your
order straight to your door.
alosraonline.com

BEST BREAKFAST SPECIALIST RETAILER

Gallery Café Maya La Chocolaterie

Open daily, from breakfast through to late night dining, For the true connoisseur of chocolate, luxury confectioner
Gallery Café offers a range of freshly prepared savoury and Maya La Chocolaterie has established itself as one of the
sweet treats from their in-house bakery complemented by regions leaders in the art of fine chocolates and sweet
signature coffees, available for both dine-in and takeaway. treats. Treat yourself to an indulgent chocolate fondue –
The main menu has something to tempt any palate; from as you dip bananas, strawberries, marshmallows, and
Scottish smoked salmon to hearty steaks; and a simply mini cup-cakes into a veritable river of the thickest tastiest
delightful afternoon tea. smooth chocolate you ever tasted.
gallerycafebahrain.com www.maya-la-chocolaterie.com

42 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


This spread, clockwise:
Singapore Airlines Chinese
cuisine; Singapore Airlines
Business Class; Etihad
Business Suite

Come fly with me


OUR TOP 5 BUSINESS CLASS AIRLINES
We haven’t seen such high levels of comfort and service since the golden age of
commercial aviation in the 1950’s & 60’s
f you are planning to spend that extra dollar and travel Business to the golden age of airline travel in the 1960’s. Today we are spoilt

I Class your will probably want to know who offers the best
Business Class service? Our well-travelled team has reviewed
their favourite airlines, taking into consideration their experiences
with lie-flat sleeper seats, state-of-the-art in-flight entertainment, Wi-
Fi, and gourmet menus devised by world-renowned chefs.
Our chosen airlines are widely considered to offer the best all-
from booking and check-in to arrivals and baggage claim, and round business class service, but competition is fierce, and you’ll
business lounge and on-board comfort to quality of service and find that many airlines are upping their game to provide better luxury
amenities. services and amenities too.
Nowadays Business Class travel has become the cabin-of-choice So if you want to know who are the best business class
for premium air travel, with many airlines moving away from the more airlines look no further than these airlines who made our Top 5;
expensive first-class cabins. Over the last decade we have seen offering exceptional service, up-to-date aircraft, comfortable
dramatic improvements in business class offerings, harking back accommodation and fine food.

44 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


WORLD TRAVELLER

“If you are planning to spend


that extra dollar and travel
Business Class your will probably
want to know who offers the best
Business Class service?”
ETIHAD AIRWAYS
Etihad Airways luxury Business Studio suites with flatbed seats
offers Arabian boutique chic that cossets you with sheer comfort.
The seats are substantial and fully-recline to over 2 metres, with
a choice of privacy or side-by-side options for a couple travelling
together, but don’t be concerned if you want additional privacy
- every seat has its own retractable screen; and a generous
47cm touch screen entertainment unit too. Another benefit of
travelling Etihad Business Class is not only the fine cuisine, but
also the ability to dine restaurant style, ordering from the menu
when you feel hungry. To complete the luxury experience Etihad
business class travel also offers complimentary limo service to
and from the airport, use of their top-notch lounge, as well as
luxury amenity kits, slippers and pyjamas, and the Lobby Lounge
and bar on their Airbus 380, which comes complete with mobile
and Wi-Fi service. A great way to fly for any business traveller.
www.etihad.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 45


This spread, clockwise: Qantas Business Class seat; Cathay Pacific
Business Cabin; Singapore Airlines Indian Cuisine; Virgin Australia
Business Seat; Qantas Tail Fin; Qantas Dreamliner Business Cabin

CATHAY PACIFIC
Cathay Pacific Business Class provides the very best of warm
Asian hospitality, delivered with a discreet, personal touch, where
flight attendants greet you by name, providing friendly and efficient
service throughout your journey. The award-winning Business
Class seat provides exceptional comfort, adapting to your
personal preferences, with easy-to-use pre-set buttons for sitting
or sleeping and additional controls to make smaller adjustments
to ensure your comfort be you are sitting or taking advantage of
the full flat bed. The Business Class menu uses locally sourced,
sustainable ingredients that are in season, and also offers= lighter
and healthy dining alternatives. As you would expect your Cathay
Business Class seat is also your office in the sky, with privacy
partitions, a generous sized table, power outlets, and adjustable
lighting. And if you want to relax, enjoy the state-of-the-art in-flight
entertainment system, with your own touchscreen TV, or freshen
up with the Jurlique skincare products in the luxury amenity
kit. Genuine Asian hospitality guaranteed to ease any journey.
www.cathaypacific.com

VIRGIN AUSTRALIA
Virgin Australia has never been afraid to think outside the box
and always looks to be the best at whatever it turns it hand to.
‘The Business’, the airline’s new business class offering is an
extraordinarily chic, relaxed and refined way to fly with Virgin
Australia. Enjoy the environs of your own private suite or a drink at
‘The Bar’, as the dedicated Virgin Australia team ensure your journey
is every bit as important as your destination. The new cabin layout
on the 777 jets guarantees everyone has aisle access, the 54cm
wide leather lay-flat seats stretch out to over 2 metres, and come
with a turn-down service and mattress, luxurious pillows, duvet
and Julie Grbac designed pyjamas when it is time to slumber. The
table offers plenty of space to work, power & USB and a 45cm
touch screen to enjoy the ample choice of in-flight entertainment.
Indulge yourself with à la carte cuisine served on elegant crockery,
paired with a fine grape and served on-demand to your suite, or
if you would like to dine as soon as you’re in the air, you can with
Express Dining. Along with priority check-in and boarding, limousine
service, and exclusive lounge access ‘The Business’ offers the
ultimate in luxury and entertainment for any business class traveller.
www.virginaustralia.com

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WORLD TRAVELLER

“Our chosen airlines are widely considered to offer the best all-round
business class service.”
SINGAPORE AIRLINES QANTAS
Singapore Airlines has long been the standard bearer for luxury Australia’s flag carrier without doubt offers a superior business
airline travel, known for its flawless and sophisticated service, and class service. The business class seats cocoon you perfectly,
amazing facilities; a long-time pioneer of exceptional travel. Business providing enough privacy from neighbouring travellers. Whether
Class travel features their hand-crafted leather loungers that extend you opt to use the turn-down-service or just convert the seat
to 2 metres in laid-flat mode, and the requisite fine bed-linen too. yourself, you will be able to enjoy a comfortable 2 metre flat
There is plenty of room to work and relax, a 45cm flat screen with bed, which also includes massage functions, personal phone,
on-demand entertainment to keep you amused. In addition to the USB & power outlets and a 30cm touch screen for the in-flight
incredible array of fine food available on board you can even choose entertainment; its perhaps no wonder they have won awards for
your meal up to 24 hours before you board, leaving you plenty of time their design. If you are feeling peckish savour an 8-course tasting
to make your choice from the airline’s carefully curated selections of menu by Qantas Chef Neil Perry, which is served by silver service
food and grape. But of course, the star of the show is Singapore trained cabin staff. And of course, Qantas provide the best of
Airlines multi-award-winning service; from fast-track services, lounge amenities such as pyjamas and skincare lotions. And if you want
access, and outstanding staff to fine dining and serene comfort. Your to stretch your legs or enjoy the large 58cm screen try the on-
airline of choice for fine cuisine, first-class service and Asian style. board lounge. Certainly a relaxing way to make any journey.
www.singaporeair.com www.qantas.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 47


GOURMET TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: Cathay Pacific
in flight; The Pier Business Lounge
- Relaxation Room; Business Seat
Workspace

THERE’S NO
BUSINESS,
LIKE CATHAY
BUSINESS
THE CATHAY PACIFIC EXPERIENCE
We try the new business class service on Cathay Pacific,
undeniably one of the world’s leading airlines

usiness travel today is about much more than a dedicated your journey; and once in your award-winning Business Class

B check-in desk, airport lounge and a larger seat; seasoned


traveller expect personalised service across every step of
the journey. Now marking more than 40 years of serving the Middle
seat, having already enjoyed priority boarding, sit back and enjoy
the typically warm Asian hospitality that is guaranteed to ease any
journey. The ergonomically designed seats can be adjusted to
East, Cathay Pacific provides a first-class service regardless of the your preferences in flight, with two pre-set options for sitting and
cabin you fly and leads the way with its customer-first approach sleeping; and individual controls to fine tune your comfort. You can
to innovation and service – its Business Class cabin and lounges opt for privacy with the touch of a button or slide your seat forward
offering the best in style and luxury. to speak with your neighbour. And when it’s time to sleep, take
Flying with Cathay Pacific Business Class is definitely a refined advantage of the full flat bed, complete with fluffy pillows and soft
experience, which is delivered with a personal touch. You are duvet to help you get a relaxing sleep, before you freshen up with
greeted by name and enjoy the signature Cathay touch throughout the Jurlique skincare products from the luxury amenity kit.

48 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


WORLD TRAVELLER

“Cathay Pacific has long been


renowned for first-class service
regardless of the cabin you fly…and
leads the way with its customer-first
approach to innovation and service.”

“The Cobb is where Meryl Streep


stood with Jeremy Irons in the
poignant scene from The French
Lieutenant’s Woman.”

Fine Dining in the air has always been one of Cathay Pacific’s own touchscreen TV, where Cathay offers carefully curated monthly
signature offerings and the Business Class menus, featuring media highlights and the latest in movies, TV and music, whatever
locally-sourced and sustainable in-season ingredients, show that your flight.
the airline has enhanced its culinary touch again. There is even a Flying into the airline’s home, Hong Kong International Airport, has
selection of light and healthy dining alternatives, not to mention an the added advantage of Cathay Pacific’s premium lounges available
exceptional selection of grape and beverages, accompanied with for Business Class passengers across Terminal 1. The Deck is the
fine chocolates. airline’s newest addition, with an open-ceiling veranda offering an
As you would expect your Cathay Business Class seat is also oasis of tranquillity and a magnificent vista across the apron and
your office in the sky, with generous working and storage space, taxi-ways. Located close to gate 16 the new lounge has a chic
power outlets and adjustable lighting. And if you want to relax, ambience of understated luxury providing an undeniable sense of
enjoy the state-of-the-art in-flight entertainment system via your well-being. Dining is at the heart of The Deck, with the Main Lounge

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 49


WORLD TRAVELLER
This spread, clockwise: Passenger sleeping; Flat-bed seat; The
Deck; Hong Kong Harbour; The Pier Business Lounge Tea House;
Cathay Pacific Business Class Cuisine; Cabin service

50 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


“Fine Dining in the air has always been one of Cathay Pacific’s signature
features, and the Business Class menus, featuring locally sourced, and
sustainable in-season ingredients show that the airline has not lost its
culinary touch.?”
providing a range of self-service, freshly made international dishes. A The Bridge, The Pier Business and First Class lounges, The
not-to-be-missed experience is The Noodle Bar, an iconic favourite Wing Business and First Class lounges and The Arrival, which is
amongst seasoned Cathay Pacific travellers, offering a selection of conveniently located in the arrivals lounge between Terminal 1 and
local classics, including wonton noodles in a hearty broth, fish ball 2, where you will receive the perfect welcome to Hong Kong with a
noodles and a variety of dim sum and buns. The lounge also has selection of light food and snacks, and shower suites to freshen up
a relaxation room zone featuring bespoke Solo chairs, as well as in before continuing on with your journey.
eight shower suites, washroom facilities and a range of comfortable Cathay Pacific flies to almost 200 destinations with probably one
seating. of the youngest fleet of aircraft operating today.
Cathay Pacific’s other lounges at Hong Kong International include www.cathaypacific.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 51


TRULY
God’sOwn COUNTRY
Rasa Gurukul: A dream come true
52 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
WORLD TRAVELLER

This spread: Kerala hillside;


Rocky outcrop


There is nowhere like Rasa Gurukul” I was told by a member of
the Rasa family (close family of work colleagues, not relatives)
who did not stop smiling from the moment we met at Cochin
Airport arrivals until my departure a few days later. Sometimes
people working for a hotel or resort use this sales patter to make
their accommodation seem better than their competitors, so I didn’t
really believe him, but how wrong I was!
The drive to the Rasa Gurukul resort was my first real taste of
India, and the roads were hectic, uneven, and people seemed to
just walk into oncoming traffic without a care for their own safety,
but this all added to the uniquely Keralan-ness of what I would
experience. Behind the heavy wooden gates of the Rasa resort
compound everything changed as soon as I entered. Gone were the
constant car horn sounds, replaced by cows and bullocks mooing,
the car fumes changed to fresh and fragrant air, and the landscape
transitioned immediately from a series of tightly-packed ramshackle
huts into wide open manicured lawns, traditional Keralan villas and
bungalows, endless forests of sugar cane, rice paddies, countless
fruit and vegetable plants, and the tallest coconut palm trees that I
had ever seen.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 53


WORLD TRAVELLER
KERALA

This spread: Paddy field; Hindu Temple; Plantains;


Rasa Gurukul resort

The pure waters of the Chalakudy River separated the resort from
nearby villages hidden by palm trees at one end, locals tending to
cows and totally organic crops at the other, and everything revolved
around the kitchen, an impressive building at the heart of the resort
with a traditional Hindu oil lamp at the entrance, a central pagoda-
like atrium in the centre with a mural of the founder’s mother on the
back wall, two dining rooms, and an industrial kitchen seemingly
large enough to feed the whole of Kerala. There are also a number
of self-enclosed bungalows, and two large villas, all with views of
the river and farms.
I found the staff at Rasa to be one of the main highlights of my
stay, they always tried to include me in the cooking, gathering of
organic ingredients from the resort’s own farms and plantations,
and teaching me new recipes for foods, such as rice and gram flour
dhosas dipped in coconut chutney and idli steamed pancakes,

54 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


“Top chefs from around the world are
visiting the resort to learn the fine art
of Keralan cookery from those who
know it best, Keralans”
which are now my stand-out favourite snacks.
I was lucky enough to meet Das Sreedharan, the founder of Rasa
Gurukul, who spoke to me for over an hour about a dream that he
had one night that resulted in his creation of Kerala’s, if not India’s,
first wholly organic resort that combines highlighting the pleasures
of wholesome vegetarian foods with helping underprivileged locals
to make a life for themselves and their families through a diploma
training course in Keralan cookery.
Das wanted to preserve a traditional Keralan village atmosphere
that has largely disappeared, ensuring that none of the food
produced at Rasa harmed the planet, and was tasty and healthy.
This dream has come to fruition, and now top chefs from around the
world are visiting the resort to learn the fine art of Keralan cookery
from those who know it best, Keralans.
So why visit Rasa if it is a village away from the main cities? Well,
the resort is no more than an hour’s drive from some of India’s most
historic attractions. The oldest synagogue, Paradesi, and oldest
mosque, Cheraman Jumaa, are nearby, and it is thought that this
is the only place in the world with a street sign that points to both a
synagogue and a mosque. A historic Hindu temple, complete with
curved walls designed to stop enemy elephant attacks, and the
Dutch Mattancherry Palace built originally by the Portuguese and
extended by the Dutch to thank local rulers for their support in the
war against Portugal. So, guests at Rasa Gurukul have no reason to
be bored, they can either explore India’s rich history, or while away

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 55


WORLD TRAVELLER
KERALA

This spread, clockwise: Mill; Old Church; Cattle grazing; Bronzesmith; Lake on grounds.

“The drive to the Rasa Gurukul resort offers a real taste of India; the roads
are hectic, uneven, and people seemed to just walk into oncoming traffic
without a care for their own safety.”
the hours learning about Keralan organic cookery and savouring land, and endless mist-shrouded hills and mountains make this one
tasty local foods. of Kerala’s worst kept secrets – yes, “worst” kept secrets! Munnar
was a popular hill retreat for British officers and officials based in
MUNNAR: A NEW MEANING TO THE TERM India throughout the British Raj, and it has kept its popularity since
“HIGH TEA” then.
Munnar’s natural landscape is simply spectacular, there is no other I tried hard to find somewhere in Munnar that didn’t offer views
word worthy of describing this hill town that developed around the that would look more at home on a fine oil painting, but this was
booming tea industry established by the British in the 19th and early nigh on impossible. Literally anywhere along the various twisting
20th centuries. and winding roads that originate from Munnar town centre boast
Munnar town is nothing to write home about, but just minutes views over rolling tree-lined hills dotted with quaint Keralan houses,
outside of the town, row after row of green tea bushes, painted and morning mists creating mythical images like nowhere else on
on the landscape in neat lines that follow the natural curves of the the planet.

56 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


I was immensely grateful that Younis at Alhabib Travels had show called kalaripayattu. Although I had absolutely no idea what
arranged a car and driver for me that was at my disposal throughout was happening, other than people in intricate costumes dancing
my time in Munnar, because although the views are unforgettable around a stage pulling faces, it was most certainly a uniquely local
from everywhere, having access to a car allowed me to visit some experience.
hidden gems that are not on the well-trodden tourist trail. By far the highlight of my time in Munnar was visiting the world’s
My personal driver took me to Mattupetty Dam, which seemed to highest organic tea plantation, Kolukkumalai, in the hills dividing
be a popular local haunt, with Indians from across the southern states Kerala and the neighbouring state of Tamil Nadu. We had to hire a
hiring pedal boats to explore the expansive green lake, surrounded 4x4 to get to the plantation, as it is an understatement to say that
by, yes you guessed it, tea bush-lined green hills. The bustling local the roads are unpaved, they are full of rocks, pot holes, and sheer
market around the dam was also my first taste of haggling in India, I drops thousands of metres down, still, the back-breaking journey
highly recommend it, even though the stallholder refused to budge there are back was more than rewarded by the inspirational views
on the measly 100 Rupees for a tub of homemade halwa. of hundreds of seemingly endless fields covered in row-after-row of
My driver, Dri, also took me to a spot overlooking a wild elephant identical green tea bushes.
reserve at the edge of the forest surrounding Munnar, to experience Before visiting Munnar I hadn’t heard of Kolukkumalai, but after
a traditional Keralan theatre performance, kathakali, and martial arts visiting and meeting a jolly local man who was obviously high from

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 57


58 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA
WORLD TRAVELLER
KERALA

This spread, clockwise: Das Sreedharan; Rasa Gurukul entrance;


pots drying; meditation; okra; selection of vegetables

KERALA BACKWATERS: A LOCAL WAY OF


LIFE
The Kerala backwaters is something that the state tourist board
tries hard to market to foreign tourists, largely because of the unique
way of life in Alleppey. Josemon Thyparambil and Rajesh N. Balan,
the owners of South India by Car and Driver, took me on a unique
river cruise through the tranquil backwaters on a traditional wood
and bamboo boat. While the cruise itself was relaxing, totally alien
to what I am used to, and an experience that will stay with me
forever, it also offered an insight into a way of life in Kerala that made
me long for a more relaxed pace in my own life.
As our boat slowly sailed along the river, passing submerged rice
paddy fields on artificial islands, and locals washing their clothes
in the waters like their ancestors would have done over centuries,
traditional Keralan houseboats passed by. These large wooden
boats, usually single-level with unique curved bamboo roofs, have
been home to Malayali families for generations, and what a way of
life this is. Imagine it, sailing along rivers, wind blowing through your
hair, living the simple life with those closest to you. Don’t you wish
you were there?
We stopped off at a local riverside restaurant which served food
in the traditional Malayali style, a mound of rice in the centre of a
the caffeine fumes after working in the former British tea factory for large banana leaf, topped with a soup-like sambar, and with various
more than 45 years, singing Malayalam songs as loud as possible, dhals and chutneys dotted at the top of the leaf, each with their
I decided that it would become my mission to get more people own specific place that has remained unchanged for centuries. And
to visit the area, and thus generate much-needed money for the of course, it would not be India without scooping up the food and
dedicated tea farmers living at the top of the world. shovelling it into our mouths with our hands!
Of course, I can’t not mention the actual tea, which is an organic
green tea that has a unique flavour that comes from a combination FORT KOCHI: MALAYALI HISTORY IN A
of altitude, tried-and-tested cultivation time, and the water used MICROCOSM
in the area for its brewing. It was a little dry in the mouth, slightly Jose also took me on a tour of Fort Kochi, the historic part of
bitter, and fragrant, all of which explains why Kolukkumalai tea has Kerala that was developed in part by Portuguese settlers in the
remained highly-prized around the world for so long. 15th century, Arab Muslims, European Jews, various Christian

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 59


WORLD TRAVELLER
KERALA

This spread, clockwise: room at resort; terrace, yoga instructor;


Kerala hillside; countryside vista;

groups, and the British from the 19th century. Each neighbourhood that are now owned by local families, and the famous Chinese
in this part of Kochi (also known as Cochin) has distinguishable fishing nets, which, as the name suggests, were introduced to
architecture and peoples that offer a glimpse of what life was once the area by Chinese migrants centuries ago. It is a sight to behold
like there. watching the counterweights pulling the nets up out of the fish-rich
In the aptly named Jew Town, one of India’s oldest surviving waters of the Arabian Sea. The locals didn’t seem bothered that the
synagogues stands at the end of a discerning street, which is also nets often came out empty, they tried again and again.
home to spice shops, former warehouse buildings that have been Fort Kochi tells the story of Kerala’s past, initially developing into
developed into high-class restaurants and galleries, and the home a bustling trade route by Jewish and later Arab traders, then being
of the last permanent Jewish resident in the city. fortified by Vasco da Gama and the Portuguese, who were pushed
The waterfront area of Fort Kochi, as Jose pointed out, is home out by the Dutch, and then the region was further developed under
to a well-preserved Portuguese fort, grand British colonial houses the British. There really is nowhere quite like Fort Kochi.

60 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 61
WORLD TRAVELLER
KERALA

This page, clockwise: Atrium building; River boat; Chalakudy River view

“Our boat slowly sailed along the river, passing submerged rice paddy
fields on artificial islands, and locals washing their clothes in the waters
Words: Joe Worthington Images: Joe Worthington; Nomad Sahil
like their ancestors would have done over the centuries”
Practicalities of travel in Kerala
It can be difficult to travel around Kerala without the aid of experienced travel travel to Kerala as simple as possible. For more information: alhabibtravels.com;
companies working in India, who are experienced with local rules and regulations, +91 997 1782785
navigating the many narrow winding village roads across the state, and pointing out Exploring the most famous part of Kochi, old Fort Kochi, is also done best when
the hidden gems worth visiting. in the hands of the experts who have been doing it for years. South India by Car
Asking an India-based travel agency to arrange hotel bookings and a car and and Driver, which also has a division catering exclusively to the increasing number of
driver who will stay with you in Munnar is the most convenient option for visitors cruise excursions under the name Shore Excursions India, are undoubtedly the best
both short on time and in search of the best attractions in the historic hill station choice. Even the BBC commissioned the company’s experienced and charismatic
resort. At night, the narrow and winding roads up to Munnar are almost impossible founder, Josemon Thyparambil, to show British celebrities around old Kochi for the
to self-drive, so this is when an experienced tour company becomes indispensable. popular British reality series The Real Marigold Hotel – which is offered as a tour
Alhabib Travels arranged my stays at the Misty Mountain Resort in Munnar, in its own right. More information is available at southindiabycaranddriver.com; or
stay at Abad Plaza in Kochi, and the car and driver who accompanied me +91 484 2204211.
throughout my visit to Munnar and took me for my early morning flight on the Rooms at Rasa Gurukul start at $155 per night, with a hearty Keralan breakfast
last day of the trip. Younis, from Alhabib, was always at the end of the phone and and tailored cookery lessons included. More information about the resort can be
assisted with any problems that I encountered quickly and efficiently, making found at rasagurukul.com; booking@rasagurukul.com; or +91 984 6040468.

62 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


Time
FOR TEA
THE ART OF THE PERFECT BREW
Tetley Master Tea Blender Sebastian Michaelis took time to speak with Food and
Travel when he visited Dubai recently
iscovered in China, thousands of years ago, tea was revered Although I grew up drinking tea, like most people I never gave

D as both drink and medicine in their culture. Now it is grown


around the world, with each origin having its own unique
characteristics, and each culture adopting its own traditions, on
much thought as to where tea came from or how it was made, until
twelve years ago. A recent university graduate, looking for inspiration
for my next steps, I stumbled across an advertisement for a job at
how and when to serve and drink it. England is famous for High Tea Tetley. They were looking for someone who held a university degree,
in china cups, as well as strong milky cups of builders’ brews, while was willing and able to travel, and was interested in tea. The role,
Moroccans tend to favour a green tea with mint and sugar. Black professional tea taster and blender. Not a job that you often hear
tea is the drink of choice in the Middle East, served with sugar, about, and a definite departure from the usual 9 to 5 office job.

“The second most consumed drink in the world, beaten only by water,
tea is more than just a drink, and there are few places where you
won’t find it on offer.”
although sometimes cardamom or mint is preferred. Tetley is 180 years old, and has a reputation in the industry
The second most consumed drink in the world, beaten only by for its taster training program. It takes five years to qualify, and
water, tea is more than just a drink in the Middle East, and there are involves over a year of travelling to tea gardens around the world,
few places where you won’t find it on offer. It’s what you welcome gaining knowledge along the way of how tea is grown, produced
guests with when they enter your home, it’s what you offer when and everything about this amazing plant’s journey from tea garden
someone is upset, it plays a key role in any, and every celebration to your kitchen. After a rigorous round of interviews, I began my
or occasion. People use it to take a break from a busy day at work, intensive five-year stint as a trainee tea taster and found myself
and most importantly it brings people together, connecting them tasting thousands of teas a week, in order to build up my palate
through conversations held over a cup of tea. and be able to recognise the thousands of different flavours and

64 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


FOOD FOCUS

Opposite page, left to right: Tea field; Sebastian Michaelis - Tetley;


Tea pickers; Afternoon tea; Tea plantation; Tea tasting.

characteristics of each leaf.


There are thousands of different teas produced across the world,
each unique in their own way, with a variety of different tastes. Both
black and green tea come from a specific species of plant called
Camellia Sinensis. To manufacture the tea, you have to pluck the
freshest leaves from the top of the bush, allow them to wither
naturally for half a day, then cut or shape the leaf, before finally
drying it out in an oven. While the process may sound simple,
the slightest changes in the soil, weather, or production technique
has an enormous impact on the end product. Even the same tea
garden will produce vastly different tastes week after week due to
the smallest changes in the amount of sunshine and rain.
This is where my job as a tea taster comes in, it is up to my
colleagues and I to create the perfect balance of flavours for our

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 65


FOOD FOCUS
TIME FOR TEA

blends. Each individual teabag or loose-leaf packet sold can


contain up to twenty-five different varieties of tea leaf, and unless
those combinations are blended in the exact right way, you can
end up with very dull looking, flavourless brews. It can take up to
four months for us to perfect a blend, and a huge amount of effort
goes in to ensuring that the quality is consistent across the board.
The way in which you choose to drink your tea is very personal,
everyone enjoys a different strength, sweetness or milky-ness.
Despite this, I am often asked how to create the perfect brew. The
simple answer is that whichever way you choose to drink your tea,
however you decide to brew your cup, is the perfect cup. Chances
are you may not like the way that some of your friends, family, or
even the way I drink tea. However, I can share a number of tips to
ensure you get the most flavour from your leaf.
Choosing the right tea is the most important step. Some cheaper
teas use poorer quality or badly blended leaves, while a good

“To manufacture tea, you have to pluck the freshest leaves from the top of
the bush, allow them to wither naturally for half a day, then cut the leaf,
before drying it in an oven.”
quality blends will not only taste ‘lively’, as tea tasters say, but will experiences chemical changes that can alter the taste of your tea,
also look bright and ‘sparkly’ when you brew it. A natural product, so fresh water is always best.
tea, while essentially just dried leaves, is incredibly delicate and You should also always use boiling water for black tea. The hotter
fragile, so must be handled with extreme care. To preserve the the better so make sure to pour as soon as your kettle reaches
flavour of your tea, I always recommend placing the leaves in an boiling point. There is also the question of whether one should
airtight container, as strong-smelling products in the kitchen such brew in a pot or just pout straight into your cup, and while the cup
as spices or washing detergent can easily spoil your tea’s flavour if may seem more convenient, brewing in a pot is ideal for allowing
stored too close to one another. your tea to move around. However, it’s very important that you heat
When it comes to brewing, I always recommend using freshly your pot before adding the tea and water. If you pour boiling water
drawn water, as opposed to water that has been in the kettle into a cold pot, it will drop in temperature and you won’t get the
since your last cup. This is because when water is re-boiled it optimal brew you desire.

66 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


“To preserve the flavour of your
tea, place the leaves in an airtight
container, as strong-smelling
products in the kitchen such as
spices or washing detergent can
easily spoil the flavour.”

Time is also a factor. Give your tea the time to brew properly. You
may prefer it weaker or stronger, but I recommend you adjust the
quantity of leaf you add rather than the brewing time. One heaped
spoon of loose tea is about right per person, but brewing should
only take between three to five minutes. Just enough time for you
to walk from the kitchen to your desk, or your living room, and get
settled in. The same rules are also applied when it comes to green
tea, except avoid using boiling water and aim for roughly 80 degrees
centigrade or so. This is because boiling water will affect the taste of
the tea, making green tea taste very bitter and astringent. I’d advise
letting your kettle cool off for one to two minutes after boiling, which
will naturally bring the temperature down.
Finally, the most important thing to remember is to make sure
you ask your guests how they like to take their tea. It’s easy to
forget how personal everyone’s tastes are, and nobody enjoys a
‘bad’ cup.
For more information on Tetley Tea visit www.tetleyarbia.com 

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 67


This spread, left-to-right: Roman
baths by torchlight; The Pump
Room

68 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


WORLD TRAVELLER

B AT H T I M E
Discover slices of culture and flavour in this picturesque town – you just need to
know where to go. Let Food and Travel’s Thomas Williams be your guide.
hether you are arriving into Bath by car or by train, Circus (no1royalcrescent.org.uk), it may be that seeing them

W you are instantly struck with the feeling that you are
stepping into the past. The world of Jane Austen,
arguably the city’s most famous ex-resident, is all around you,
for the first time is appealing, but both are better explored
and appreciated more fully, especially if the evening is
drawing dark. Instead, a trip to The Circus Restaurant might
with the orange-tinted greys of the stonework catching the be in order, located in a beautiful Georgian house, between
eye of any new visitor. both locations. Here the food is English, locally sourced and
As Bath is based around a relatively small centre, the always fresh, and the family-run establishment provides the
sheer amount of things to do and experience can be a sort of welcoming and friendly environment much needed
little overwhelming, contained as they are all in a very easily on a first visit to a city. The restaurant is small however,
traversable area. As with most cities, we would recommend and booking is advised if possible. Alternatively, Clayton’s
not attempting to do too much; less is always more; and Kitchen on nearby George Street is also a fantastic choice.
resisting the urge to cram as much in as possible is a great Also found in a historic Georgian house, it offers an informal
idea. Bath is the sort of city that is best observed slowly and experience, with seasonal meals based around traditional
calmly, allowing time to truly pay attention to the finer things British favourites.
it has to offer. With that in mind, here is our guide for a short If a drink to round the evening off is required, the attractive
break in the historical city of Bath. and inviting environs of Corkage on Walcot St are a ten-
minute walk away. This wine bar offers a vast array of quality
DAY ONE wines to suit all tastes, as well as small plates, should they
EVENING be needed. Its small size and popularity can mean things get
Spending the first evening simply getting orientated can be a little busy, especially on weekend evenings, but tables can
a joy in itself. The natural place to start is around the railway be reserved.
station, taking the opportunity to stroll up through the city
centre towards Milsom Street. There is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ DAY TWO
way to do this; the joy is in just ambling through the largely MORNING
pedestrianised streets, stopping to look at whatever grabs An absolutely essential part of any visit to Bath should be to
your fancy. Wandering into side alleys is a great idea, and visit the ancient Roman Baths. The immense popularity of
getting lost really isn’t a problem, as everything naturally flows the unmissable attraction means that getting in as near to
towards Milsom Street. As Bath is best explored on foot, it’s the 9 am opening as possible is the best chance of avoiding
a fantastic first introduction. the crowds. An audio-guide leads you around the natural
Due to the proximity of Bath’s Royal Crescent and The hot springs that Bath was founded on, and the Roman
pavements and bathing sites leave you with a true idea of
what past life contained. Seeing it fully takes around two
hours, after which the attached Pump Room Restaurant is
worth a visit, to try a glass of the drinkable hot-spa water,
famed for its health-giving properties.
Before lunch, a walk up to see the Royal Crescent is a great
way to work up an appetite. The row of 30 terraced houses
that make up the Crescent were built between 1767 and
1774, designed by the architect John Wood, and are Grade
1 listed. A walk down the length of the houses will reveal the
many blue plaques that have put in place to commemorate
the past notable residents. No 1 Royal Crescent is now a
museum that is well worth a visit. The experience is best
completed by a walk back through the park, along Royal
Avenue, where the full imposing power of the Crescent can
be truly appreciated.
The Circus, which lies a very short distance away is also
worth seeing. Forming a circle, the selection of townhouses

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 69


This spread, clockwise: Bath Abbey at night; Pulteney Bridge;
Holburne Museum; Scallops from Clayton’s Kitchen; Suite at
the Royal Crescent Hotel

“There is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way


to do this; the joy is in just ambling
through the largely pedestrianised
streets, stopping to look at whatever
grabs your fancy.”
date back to the same period as the Royal Crescent, is also
Grade 1 listed, and lists the painter Thomas Gainsborough
as it’s most famous past resident.
Lunch can be taken at the nearby Café Lucca on Bartlett
Street, where an Italian feel is present, but the experience
remains very much traditional and in keeping with the
overall feel of Bath. A selection of light food is offered, with
salads, bruschetta, quiches and terrines all being a big
part of the menu.

AFTERNOON
The Holburne Museum (www.holburne.org), on Great
Pulteney Street, could possibly lay claim to being the most
attractive building used for such a purpose in England. Now
Grade 1 listed, it was originally designed as a hotel, but now
holds an impressive array of artwork. Gainsborough features
heavily, as well as many Renaissance treasures. The former
ballroom is set out as it would be for a banquet. The founder
of the museum, Sir William Holburne, houses his collection
here, and it is possible to get a real sense of the history of
Bath via the many paintings and artefacts from the city’s past.
The ground floor café is bright, with large glass windows
offering lovely views of the gardens, and is a great place to
get an afternoon tea, should it be required.
Depending on the amount of time taken up by the Holburne
Museum, and whether the subject is of interest, a trip to the
Museum of Bath Architecture can be fitted in. Here visitors
are able to explore how the city embraced classical design,
and how many of its most famous buildings came into being.

EVENING
The Bath Priory Restaurant, part of the Bath Priory Hotel on
Weston Road, gives the opportunity to experience 3 AA
Rosette quality whilst looking out across the remarkable
gardens the hotel prides itself on. Much of the produce used
is grown here, with a real focus placed on French dishes,
given a local and seasonal flavour, making it a perfect place
for an early evening meal.
Having a look at the schedule of the Bath Theatre Royal
(www.theatreroyal.org.uk) in advance and booking into a
performance there is the perfect way to follow things up. The
building itself is superb, refurbished in 2010 but retaining its
Georgian origins, it’s host to an incredible varied selection
of performances. Theatre productions make up much of
its schedule, with ballet and music also featuring highly.
Many visitors to the city will plan their entire trip around a
performance at the Theatre Royal, a policy it is difficult to
argue with given its reputation.
Following the performance, the nearby Vino Vino offers a
chance for a post-show drink. A wine cocktail bar, with a

70 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


WORLD TRAVELLER

covered terrace that features heaters in colder weather, the


selection of wines and drinks on offer is seriously impressive.
Bar staff will also make up new and interesting cocktails
should you wish, and, if you still have any appetite left after
dinner, trying some of their locally sourced cheeses is well
recommended.

DAY THREE
MORNING
Start off the day with a visit to the Bath Assembly Rooms.
Fully restored after taking damage in the Second World War,
these are Grade 1 listed, and were used for high society
events such as balls and concerts. With Jane Austen and
Charles Dickens among those who attended, it’s a powerful
and informative step back into the past. The lower floors
are home to the Fashion Museum, which is also well worth
a visit.
A short walk away, and near to the Roman Baths (www.
romanbaths.co.uk), is Bath Abbey, a former Benedictine
monastery. Its impressive exterior provides a wealth of detail
to look at and admire, with many special features and details
for the more eagle-eyed to discover. Still in active use, it is
possible to look around the interior, or take the tower tour,
which provides a highly recommended and informative
insight into how the Abbey runs. The view from the tower
justifies the tour in itself, giving perhaps the best view across
Bath available.
For lunch, Hunter & Sons (hunter-sons.co.uk) in Milsom
Place, located just off Milson Street offers up the sort of

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 71


The Royal Crescent

“A walk up to see the Royal Crescent is a great way to work up an appetite”


light, friendly and casual atmosphere needed to round across the River Avon are marvellous, and taking a bit of
off a trip to Bath. The food is high quality, with a definite time to wander around the surrounding streets makes for a
emphasis on local and traditional, but make sure you take perfect goodbye to the city.
the opportunity to sample some of their craft beer, which If time permits, The Victoria Art Gallery (www.victoriagal.
they take seriously, and the staff are very knowledgeable org.uk) is nearby, and houses an impressive array of works.
about. Gainsborough inevitably features heavily, but by no means
dominates. Travelling exhibitions often visit, which are usually
AFTERNOON of a very high standard and always worthy of viewing. As the
The best way to end a trip is via a walk across Pulteney Gallery is large but not huge, it doesn’t feel overwhelming,
Bridge, one of only four bridges in the world to have shops and its location makes it very convenient for brief visits, as
across both of its sides. The views the bridge provides well as longer ones.

Where to stay
THE BATH PRIORY, WESTON ROAD 5 star hotel, whose unique attraction is its access to natural thermal waters.
Peaceful, quiet and exceptionally refined, The Bath Priory is located close to Found in the heart of the city, it’s a perfect embodiment of what Bath does well;
Royal Victoria Park, and within very easy walking distance of the City Centre. A mixing the traditional and the modern, with the utmost taste. The Spa Village
country house style dominates throughout, and the beautiful gardens are has all the features the name suggests, and a replica Roman mosaic acts as a
perfectly in keeping with the Georgian feel. A spa and swimming pool bring the reminder that people may have been receiving similar treatments so long ago,
hotel into the modern-era, but attentive staff and classical décor provide an while the glass ceiling creates a wonderfully light appearance and touch.
overall feeling of nostalgic luxury. Its restaurant, as detailed above, is a real www.thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk
bonus, and is open to non-residents.
www.thebathpriory.co.uk SPECIALIST TIMES TO VISIT
Images: Food & Travel; iStock; Bath Tourism

A city of such culture as Bath naturally has a packed schedule of festivals and
ROYAL CRESCENT HOTEL, ROYAL CRESCENT events taking place across the year that visitors may like to tailor their stay
Forming part of the Royal Crescent, this hotel’s location couldn’t be more iconic. around. The Bath Festival is perhaps the biggest, and has been running for over
Arguably the best location in the whole of the Bath, steeped in history and 70 years. visitbath.co.uk
instantly recognisable, the Royal Crescent Hotel also provides service that is Taking place over 17 days in May the festival brings in a variety of national and
amongst the best in the country. Oil paintings, large staircases and chandeliers international talent to venues and locations across the city for a very varied
bring classicism, while saunas, steam rooms, fitness areas and a spa provide calendar of events. The Bath Carnival takes place over one day, usually at the
the modernity. A major advantage if travelling to Bath by car is the hotel’s free end of July, and a ten-day Jane Austin Festival in September always proves a
valet parking, removing something that visitors to the city frequently find difficult. popular draw. There is also a section of very attractive and well populated
www.royalcrescent.co.uk Christmas markets that set up around the Abbey area, and regularly feature
over 200 stalls, catering to all tastes.
THE GAINSBOROUGH BATH SPA, BEAU STREET bathfestivals.org.uk
One of Bath’s most famous past resident lends his name to this ideally located

72 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


FOOD FOCUS

THE
Italian JOB

Street food in Italy can be traced back to Pompeii,


where hawkers were immortalised in dust after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius.
These recipes celebrate a tradition as old as the land itself

RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHS FROM ITALIAN STREET FOOD BY PAOLA BACCHIA


PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAOLA PACCHIA AND IAN SUMMERS (SMITH STREET BOOKS)
FOOD FOCUS
PIZZETTE CON
GORGONZOLA E FUNGHI
EARTHY MUSHROOMS AND
PIQUANT BLUE CHEESE ARE
IDEAL TOPPINGS FOR THESE
BITE-SIZED PIZZAS, WHICH
ARE SERVED IN MOST BARS.
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 75


FOOD FOCUS

POLPETTINE DI
MELANZANE
DEEP-FRIED BALLS OF
AUBERGINE, SALTY
PARMESAN AND CRISPY
BREADCRUMBS. WHAT MORE
COULD YOU WANT FROM A
SPUNTINO (SNACK)?

RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

76 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


FOOD FOCUS

CANNOLI AL CACAO CON RICOTTA


THINK SICILY AND THINK OF DELICATE
PASTRY TUBES FILLED TO THE BRIM
WITH SWEET RICOTTA. THIS CHOCOLATE
VERSION IS TOPPED WITH CRUSHED
PISTACHIOS.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 77


FOOD FOCUS

RECIPES START ON PAGE 92

TORCINELLI
TRADITIONALLY EATEN AROUND
EASTER, THESE POTATO
FRITTERS WITH ANISEED,
SUGAR AND CINNAMON ARE
SURPRISINGLY LIGHT.
RECIPES START ON PAGE 92
FOOD FOCUS

PANINO CON VITELLO


ROASTED ROLLED LOIN OF VEAL
LACED WITH GARLIC, ROSEMARY
AND FENNEL THEN SIMPLY
SERVED IN BREAD ROLLS WITH
PIECES OF CRACKLING AND A
SPRINKLING OF SEA SALT.

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 79


WALKING ON
SUNSHINE
Hiking through the Sunshine Coast’s verdant hinterland leads to lichen-flecked
rainforests, rock pools and retreats
s morning dew rises, the forest awakes. An eastern whipbird celebratory Bunya Nut Feast. This triennial culinary and cultural festival

A casts his whip-crack from the foliage until the female replies.
Spears of sunlight spotlight the twigs that snap underfoot as
we follow the snaking path. Led by Steve Grainger, owner and guide
lasted many months when hundreds of members from various tribes
gathered to unite and honour the prized nut, which would be roasted,
ground down to make bread, or used as a spread.
of Tropical Treks, we’re covering a section of the 58km-long Sunshine We see a gorgeous red bloodwood tree, sporting sap that sits on
Coast Hinterland Great Walk that winds through the Blackall Range. its bark in sticky beads. Twisting, peeling blackbutts then join the path.
Today we’ll cover around 12km on this rainforest walk, in Queensland’s Blackbutt eucalypts were used for railway sleepers, and constructed
glorious Sunshine Coast Hinterland. some of Brisbane’s heritage buildings. We admire a mighty 300-year-
Kondalilla National Park is a living, breathing slideshow of Australia’s old specimen that escaped the saw.
subtropical rainforest inhabitants. We delight at the tall dome-shaped Trained through many years of exploring the Australian bush, Steve
bunya pine, sacred to the Gubbi Gubbi Aboriginal people. Fruiting only has a hawk’s eye. He then tracks the flight of a golden whistler bird.
every three years, its football-sized nut was once the epicentre of the And above a climbing pandanus, a fan-tailed cuckoo voices its

80 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


WORLD TRAVELLER

“Kondalilla National Park is a living,


breathingslideshow of Australia’s
subtropical rainforest inhabitants”

This spread, clockwise: Purple pea bush lights up the trail; The rock
pool at the head of Kondalilla Falls; A beautiful grass tree, Black-butt
soars; Narrows Escape Rainforest Retreat pavilion.

melancholic call.
“This a bird’s nest fern,” he says. “Its crimped fronds harbour
an inner cluster of unfurled fronds, which give the plant its name.”
Amazingly, it’s growing directly from a rock. Nearby, a young staghorn
fern clasps to a trunk.
Reaching Narrows Creek, we see the wait-a-while vine, named so
due to its hooked barbs. Steve demonstrates its stubborn clasp on
his shirtsleeve. Aboriginal fishermen used this spiky vine to ensnare
unsuspecting catch.
A two metre-high termite mound captures our attention. Resembling
upside-down terracotta pots, they house ants by the million, to
include the queen ant’s residence, ant nurseries and fungi zones.
This one is around 100 years old, and has been created by ants
that feed on grass trees. Mixing mud with their saliva and excrement,
they construct these high-rise homes, making them waterproof and

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 81


WORLD TRAVELLER
WALKING ON SUNSHINE

“Creeping onto the path are


the buttress roots of a giant fig tree,
contrasted by a dainty candle vine
climbing a trunk—its leaf resembling
a flame.”

82 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


This spread, clockwise: The view from Peregrine Lookout;
Obi Obi Creek at Flat Rock; Shadows in the forest; Mapleton
Falls Lookout; Billabong connected to Obi Obi Creek; Breakfast
hamper at Narrows Falls

Cheddar’ (sweet chilli and pepper-blended cheese). The creek


dissects two ecotones. Behind us is subtropical rainforest, and over
the water is (drier) wet sclerophyll forest. The forest has many faces.
Back on our feet, we pass an ancient hoop pine (a close relative of
the bunya pine). Incredibly, it takes 200 years for the female hoop pine
to produce cones. We climb an escarpment on the Kondalilla Falls
circuit. An attractive stand of grass trees, sporting tall nectar-rich flower
spikes, becomes nature’s fence. We’re soon rewarded with a tranquil
rock pool, fed by Skene Creek. From it, the falls plummet 90 metres
into the valley. ‘Kondalilla’ is, after all, Aboriginal for ‘rushing waters’.
At nearby Mapleton Falls National Park, we join the short Wompoo
circuit. Featuring open eucalypt and riparian rainforest, both sides of
the boardwalk are alive and kicking with all manner of creatures. We
hear a wompoo fruit dove voice its deep call. This bright green, yellow
and purple rainforest-dwelling (pigeon-like) bird feeds on vine fruits in
the rainforest canopy.
Reaching Mapleton Falls lookout, we breathe in the Obi Obi Valley
fireproof: quite the ingenious engineering feat. and Mary River Valley beyond. Mapleton Falls (dry today) drops 120
The trail soon dresses up in grass trees, blue quandong trees and a metres down basalt rock into Pencil Creek below. Above is a peregrine
dash of tiny lilac flowers from the purple pea bush. Creeping onto the falcon nesting site, but we don’t see the elusive predator today. We
path are the buttress roots of a giant fig tree, contrasted by a dainty do however spot a white-browed scrub wren. Also sharing this forest
candle vine climbing a trunk—its leaf resembling a flame. is the attractive carpet python, as well as the venomous red-bellied
“Have a look at this,” says Steve, crouching. “It’s the home of black snake (which, fortunately, remains covert today).
a trapdoor spider.” Steve uses a tool to flip open the trapdoor, The walk becomes most scenic, filled with dense piccabeen
completely camouflaged in the earth. “The spider cleverly constructs palm colonies. From this palm, indigenous locals weaved baskets
near-microscopic trip lines. When an insect disturbs them, out strikes and bowls and constructed roofing, with the wait-a-while vine
the spider, capturing its prey.” forming the framework.
At the halfway mark, we reach Flat Rock bordering Obi Obi Creek, Now in the wet sclerophyll forest of the Obi Obi Valley, we see a
and unbox our gourmet picnic. I adore Maleny Cheese’s ‘Chilli Con tangled strangler fig, choking its host tree, near to where some fine

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 83


WORLD TRAVELLER
This page, clockwise: Tree canopy; Narrows Escape Rainforest
WALKING ON SUNSHINE Retreat Lounge; and bedroom.

“Back on our feet, we pass an ancient hoop pine; incredibly, it takes 200
years for the female hoop pine to produce cones.”
examples of elkhorn ferns grow. Unlike the large broadleaved staghorn
fern, elkhorns are spindly and hang downwards. We see juvenile
Travel Information
grass trees, a fine specimen of a brush box, blackwood acacias, and GETTING THERE
the hand-like five-leaf water vine that climbs on forked tendrils. And all Emirates flies daily between Dubai and the Sunshine Coast (Maroochydore
around, lighting up like an artist’s palette, mosses and lichens paint the Airport) via Melbourne: www.emirates.com
tree barks in greens, whites and oranges, while shadows play puppet LUXE TREKKING PACKAGE
theatre on sunlit barks. The Luxe Trekking guided walk package for two comes with an all-inclusive
In a clearing, a flooded gum sits peeling, while another, 300-500 two-night stay at multi award-winning Narrows Escape Rainforest Retreat.
years old, rises to the sun. Birds, possums, gliders and glossy black Also included is dinner at a restaurant in nearby Montville (transfers also
cockatoos take refuge in its shady hollows. “Look down, everyone,” included).
says Steve. “Spot the funnel-web spider holes in the leaf litter? And Price: $1,235 per couple: www.narrowsescape.com.au
over there is a golden orb weaver—hanging between the two trees.” VISAS
This is not the place for arachnophobes. Travellers to Australia require a Visitor Visa, available online from:
As this creature-filled journey nears its completion, I prepare to www.border.gov.au
become a creature myself (with added creature comforts). RESOURCES
Just outside the village of Montville, I enter the grounds of Narrows www.visitsunshinecoast.com
Escape Rainforest Retreat. On the banks of a trickling creek steeped
in privacy and peace are six luxury pavilions constructed in local
Words & Images: Marie Barbieri

timbers. Climbing the steps of my villa, I spot through its stilts a brush I could enjoy a barbeque hamper on my veranda, but opt instead
turkey sweeping the foliage into a mound. He’s preparing for the arrival for dinner delivered to my room—and this is no ordinary room service.
of a female! At 6pm, the knock at my door is by the retreat’s owner, carrying an
Opening my door, an aroma of freshly cut flowers and a subtly lit aromatic basket of home-cooked Mediterranean chicken marinated in
living room welcomes me in. A natural log fireplace stands to one side, tomatoes, onions, capsicums, and olives. It’s accompanied by rice, a
while a spa bath beckons from the other. In the kitchen, a hamper fresh salad and garlic bread, with a cheesecake for dessert.
sits filled with gourmet breakfast items, with a note promising freshly I turn down the lights and turn on the taps, and pour essential
baked croissants to arrive, come morning. Upon the bed is a bag of oil-infused bath gel into the spa bath. Reclining into the bubbles, my
chocolate truffles, with a welcome card, printed with my name. It’s the aching legs sigh with relief. I lay back listening to the cacophonous
personal touches… chorus of the forest’s nocturnal residents.

84 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


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Food and Travel Arabia wherever you are in the world
Tried &

NOURISH DUBAI
f you are struggling to find delicious yet healthy food, then visit also perfect if you are looking to work remotely - with lots of

I Nourish! Located at the Located at Dar Al Wasl mall in


Jumeirah, Nourish is more than just a restaurant; it’s a lifestyle
movement, specialty coffee and juice bar; a holistic ‘clean eating
natural light and power points by every table, Nourish has
created a seamless workspace. All the food is freshly prepared
from scratch with ingredients sourced locally where possible;
concept’, where natural food tastes really good, headed by from fermenting mustards, tabasco and ketchup, to culturing
South African Chef Julie Watson. Priding itself on being vegetables, kneading unbleached, stone ground bread, and so
transparent, hands on, educated and most of all passionate much more; Nourish doesn’t do short cuts, it doesn’t do
about what they serve, Nourish is a unique dining concept that processed; just real!
has been crafted to attract people looking for affordable healthy Nourish is also big on coffee. Serving high-quality single origin
food, offered in chic surroundings. What makes this ‘home- specialty coffees and cold brew, the team work alongside
away- from-home’ so unique, is the space that features both a farmers who maintain sustainable practices, building on
marketplace and a restaurant. You can enjoy food either inside generations of experience, and responding to new and ethical
the sleek and stylish dining space; or dine alfresco on the terrace methods. So think healthy, eat well and ‘Nourish’ yourself!
whilst enjoying one of the many tasty healthy dishes. Nourish is nourishme.ae

COOKERY COURSES RESTAURANTS DELIS APPS HOTELS


FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 87
Eat
Where to
Tried&Tasted
EAT

This month, we eat like a local in Milan, go French in London’s Smithfield, indulge
ourselves at Asia’s top eatery and dine alfresco Oriental style in Abu Dhabi
TIMELESS CLASSIC
Club Gascon Smithfield London What hasn’t changed is the miniature surprises which flow
he superlative foie gras still features, but much else is out of the kitchen on a stream of effortless brilliance at the

T new and improved at this bastion of Gallic flair


Some restaurants earn the epithet ‘timeless’ because
they refuse to change. Others achieve longevity by moving
start of the meal. No fewer than seven amuse bouches amaze
with their taste, texture and imaginative presentation. Smoky
pork crackling arrives swaddled in a haze of tomato mousse
with the times. Until recently Club Gascon fell into the former bolstered with comforting bean purée, while kale crisps, as
camp. A menu in thrall to foie gras and interiors that had arid as the earth on a scorching summer’s
barely changed since the first tablecloth was unfurled in 1998 day, are expertly balanced by sweetcorn consommé sipped
assured its status as a stalwart, albeit not one necessarily at from a sea urchin shell. The only misfire is prune and cream
the top of your ‘must-visit’ list. How times change. spritzed with Armagnac, which falls on the wrong side of
A recent refurbishment has transformed it into everything you’d contrived, in our opinion.
expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant on the edge of The After this prelude, the thought of three courses may seem a
City, complete with ostentatious gilt frosting and banquettes little intimidating, but each plate is so carefully curated, with
covered in teal velvet. The new menu is organised into three every ingredient earning its place, that you’ll find yourself
sections that reflect chef Pascal Aussignac’s thoughts on the eating them with gusto. The highlight is foie gras with pine
past, present and future of dining. It’s safe to say that the mushrooms, served with saline razor clam and a glass of
future is looking bright for vegetarians and non-dairy eaters. Rancio Sec from Domaine des Schistes, a fortified wine rarely
The wine list has also shrunk and – traditionalists look away seen outside of France. Equally good is the beef fillet. Served
now – actually includes cocktails. For a sophisticated taste rare in flagrant disregard of our request for medium, when it
of south-west France try the Gascon signature pour, which arrives, blushing, doused in dashi and scattered with hibiscus,
features armagnac, cognac and champagne sweetened with a we acknowledge that chef knows best. +44 20 7600 6144,
sugar cube. www.clubgascon.com

88 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


Eat
Tried & Tasted

G lobal Gourmet
Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone Milan are as flavourful an antipasti as you’ll find. For primi, a heady Milanese risotto with
ITALY just that little bit of bite and a simple, rich home-made tortelloni al pomodoro may
Sure, talking about Italy’s carb-driven delights is a conversation that’s as old as well have you considering moving here permanently. Veal cutlet is an essential
time. But, rest assured, when it comes to Milan’s Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone, main and tiramisu is our pick for pudding, though a strong espresso will do just
it’s a discussion of great importance. A family-run institution since 1957, the as nicely. Don’t let the proximity (a ten-minute walk) to the tourist-strewn Duomo
menu here is a veritable roll call of Italy’s finest cuisine. An orange tree-laden put you off: Il Salumaio is tucked away in a historic courtyard off a backstreet
terrace and elegant interior featuring stone walls, marble statues and dark wood flanked by chic boutiques. This is a local hangout, make no mistake. + 39 02
gives way to a lively open kitchen. Carefully sourced bresaola and creamy burrata 7600 1123, ilsalumaiodimontenapoleone.it

Gaggan BANGKOK, THAILAND Hakkasan Abu Dhabi


For the fourth year running, Gaggan has won the coveted number one spot at Hakkasan Abu Dhabi has launched the new Hakkasan Terrace, with views
Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards 2018 as ‘Best Restaurant in Asia’ and the ‘Best across the picturesque gardens of the Emirates Palace and the city skyline.
Restaurant in Thailand’. As culinary CVs go, Gaggan Anand’s could get no better. The terrace boasts a stylish bar area complete with bespoke cocktail menu
He was the first Indian chef to undertake an internship with Ferran Adrià’s research and laidback cabanas. Following the extension, the Abu Dhabi restaurant is
team at El Bulli, before working at some of the very best Indian restaurants in the now the biggest Hakkasan outpost in the world. Open daily from 6pm until
world. From there he chose to open the world’s finest Indian in Bangkok. The dishes 2am, and brunch on Fridays from 12pm, Hakkasan Terrace not only makes
and their respective names could be fresh out of Willy Wonka’s factory: Chocolate a perfect weekend spot, but an ideal place to hit once the last brunch calls
Eyeball (poppadum with fresh herbs, garam masala and pomegranate), Liquid have been made. To complement the drinks, Hakkasan Abu Dhabi Head
Salad (cucumber juice jelly with beetroot and carrot purée) and Mom’s Love (carrot Chef Lee Kok Hua has designed a special small plates menu. Ideal for
porridge with saffron and silver leaf) are some of the more outre. But while they sharing, dishes include Hakkasan signature Peking duck, Hakka steamed
sound outrageous, the flavour profiles are sound. Quite clearly a student of the great and fried dim sum platters, soft shell crab salad with fresh mango, Jasmine
Adrià and the only chef practising his principles to such an extent with Indian food tea smoked Wagyu beef ribs and Black sesame Cantonese bun. www.
anywhere in the world. eatatgaggan.com hakkasan.com

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 89


Places to
Stay
This month, we enjoy fifty shades of blue in the Maldives, bird watch on Sri
Lanka’s south coast, salute the neighbours on London’s South Bank, and
enjoy palatial splendour in Abu Dhabi
Baros MALDIVES If you’re lucky, you might spy a turtle or a blacktip reef shark lurking in the
shadows. Back on land you can explore the entire island on foot in less
Spend a week at Baros and you’ll find that clichés can be a very good
than an hour, before chilling in a hammock in the shade.
thing. Palm trees sway in the wind, white beaches fringe the shoreline and
Dining options bump the romantic vibes up a notch: feast on tuna tartare
aquamarine waters stretch into the blue sky. It’s blindingly beautiful. laced with truffles on the beach by candlelight or watch the sun set at The
You’ll arrive at the resort by speedboat – a 20-minute crossing from the Lighthouse restaurant, perched over the ocean. A delicate lobster bisque is
Maldives’ main island, Malé. Once a small coconut plantation, the interior rich and smooth, while Wagyu beef flamed tableside is quite the show. As
is lush and green with shrubs, trees and flora. Today, Baros is home to for bedding down, beach villas are huge and come with outdoor showers,
both overwater and beach villas and a spectacular living house reef. While but the overwater option is still the best. Some have private infinity pools,
on other islands you’d need to take a boat to get friendly with fish, here and all have steps leading straight into the ocean, meaning you’ll be lulled
you can quickly swim the 15m out from shore. Float above the coral with to sleep by the sound of the waves crashing beneath. Doubles from $735.
complimentary snorkelling gear and watch schools of exotic fish dart past. baros.comw

90 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


Sleep
Tried & Tasted

MARRIOTT COUNTY HALL LONDON Sympathetically converted from the old Greater London Council
A word of warning for guests staying in one of Marriott Hotel County building, the hotel is centrally located – just moments away from
Hall’sfabulous riverside suites: bear in mind that directly outside your Westminster Bridge and the South Bank, within walking distance of
window, amere stone’s throw away from your terrace, towers the Coca- a multitude of attractions – and boasts crisp, contemporary styling
Cola London Eye – complete with podfuls of tourists, many of them punctuated by period detailing throughout. Rooms feature deluxe
waving and taking photographs. This is, perhaps, not a room in which bedding and marble bathrooms, and there’s an indoor pool and gym,
to drip dry. Tourists notwithstanding, that view alone is worth checking where guests have complimentary access to fitness classes. There’s
in for. With the illuminated wheel to the right and the iconic Houses of also in-house destination dining, in the form of Gillray’s Steakhouse &
Parliament to the left, souvenir-stand postcards of the capital pale in Bar and, should you wish to don a dressing gown and enjoy a night in,
comparison. 24-hour room service, too. Doubles from $410. marriott.com

ANANTARA PEACE HAVEN


TANGALLE SRI LANKA
Kissed by the Indian Ocean, this is a tropical hideaway of the
finest order. Tucked on a rocky outcrop on the southernmost
tip of India’s Teardrop and sprawling across a coconut grove,
it feels more like a botanical garden than a hotel. Interiors
are modern and fresh with plenty of blue accents and dark
wood. Great views come as standard and most of the rooms
overlook the ocean. If you can, plump for one of the villas.
They’re super spacious and offer much more privacy, featuring
a terrace with a gloriously oversized plunge pool. While the
villas don’t uniformly offer coastal vistas, the gardens provide a
joyful array of birdlife that’s entertainment in itself. Kingfishers
THE RITZ-CARLTON ABU DHABI take flight, peacocks strut their stuff, and you’ll soon be able
Found just a few minutes from downtown Abu Dhabi, The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi, to tell your babblers and bulbuls from your barbets as they flit
Grand Canal is one of the most opulent hotels in Abu Dhabi; inspired by the between swaying palms. If you hear a bang on the roof, don’t
Italian renaissance the palatial property still hints at its Arabian heritage. Lush panic: it’s just the purple-faced monkey clan doing the rounds.
verdant manicured gardens and babbling fountains greet you upon arrival. In the Four good restaurants, tennis courts, a huge double-tier pool
morning, the sun shimmers off Al Maqta Creek, while the Sheikh Zayed Grand with sunken loungers and a dream of a spa complete the look.
Mosque is lit beautifully as the sun serenely sets each evening. Doubles from $335. tangalle.anantara.com
The dining options at the hotel take you on a culinary voyage around the
globe; with each of the hotel’s eight restaurants offering a distinct dining
experience. Steaks and renowned wineries are highlighted at The Forge;
traditional Middle Eastern cuisine is served with live performances at Mijana;
the energy and variety of Southeast Asian culinary culture is brought to life at
Li Jiang and an indulgent Friday brunch and view of the gardens are what draw
many to Giornotte.
Take advantage of the Staycation Friday Brunch and Stay; book an
overnight stay together with two classic Friday brunch packages and enjoy
complimentary house beverages. Prices start at $475 per room per night,
and include overnight accommodation, two Friday brunch packages with
house beverages, early check-in at 10am, late check-out at 4pm &
complimentary pool and beach access. The offer is valid through to April
30, 2018. For terms and conditions visit www.ritzcarlton.com
APRIL
For better-tasting food and your own peace of mind, use sustainably and locally produced ingredients if possible. Eggs should always be free-range.
1 teaspoon is 5ml; 1 tablespoon is 15ml

THE PANTRYPAGES 18-23

Raspberry dressing
MAKES ENOUGH TO DRESS A LEAFY
SALAD FOR 6-8 PEOPLE

1tbsp raspberry vinegar


½ tsp Dijon mustard
3 tbsp. lemon-infused olive oil
Pinch of caster sugar

Put all the ingredients plus a


pinch of salt into a screw-topped
jar and shake to emulsify. Pour
over a leafy salad just before
serving.

Raspberry and lemon


thyme vinegar
MAKES APPROX 600ML

The vinegar will keep for at least


four months – use for dressings.
Regular thyme can replace lemon
thyme if the latter is unavailable.

750g raspberries
500ml white balsamic vinegar
2 lemon thyme sprigs

Place the raspberries in a glass


or ceramic bowl and squash
with a potato masher. Pour over
the white balsamic and push
the lemon thyme sprigs into the
Macerated raspberries Raspberry sauce 3 tbsp. icing sugar mixture. Cover with cling film and
SERVES 4-6 MAKES APPROX 500ML leave in a cool, dark place for
Place all the ingredients in a about a week for the flavour and
250g raspberries This sauce can also be blender and whizz to a purée, then colour to develop. Squash the
2 tbsp. icing sugar transformed into a quick sorbet strain through a nylon sieve set raspberries with a fork every few
3-4 tbsp. balsamic vinegar by freezing it until almost solid, over a bowl, pushing the purée days. Pass through a fine nylon
Clotted cream, to serve pulsing in a processor until through with the back of a ladle. sieve and fish out the thyme.
completely broken down, then Discard the seeds. Taste and If there are still solid bits in the
Place the raspberries in a bowl, re-freezing for 45 minutes before add more icing sugar if needed, vinegar, pass through a muslin-
sift over the icing sugar and pour serving. The sauce works very depending on your preference and lined sieve so it is clear. Pour into
over the balsamic vinegar. Leave well with red fruits, peaches and how acidic the fruit is. Store the a clean, sterilised bottle and store
to macerate for 30 minutes. You ice cream. sauce in a covered container in in the cupboard.
can crush some of the raspberries the fridge for up to 3 days. Bring
if you wish. Lovely served with 500g raspberries to room temperature 30 minutes
clotted cream. Juice of 1 lemon before serving.

92 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


Raspberry and white a bowl and set over a smaller pan Rose and raspberry panna reduced a little. Be sure not to let
chocolate baked of just simmering water, without cotta with fairy floss and it boil.
cheesecake letting it touch the water. Remove rose petals Meanwhile, place the gelatine
MAKES 9 SQUARES from the heat after 6 minutes, stir MAKES 4-6 in a bowl and cover with cold
well until combined and completely water for 5 minutes until soft,
20g salted butter, melted and melted, and set aside to cool for Persian fairy floss, called then remove from the bowl and
cooled, plus extra to grease about 10 minutes. pashmak, is available from Middle squeeze out the excess water.
200g soft amoretti Whisk the cream cheese until Eastern grocers and some high- Pour the cream mixture into a
1½ tbsp. fine rice flour light then whisk in the sugar and end food halls such as Selfridges. bowl and stir in the gelatine,
350g good-quality white the eggs, one at a time, until which will dissolve right away.
chocolate, broken into small smooth, and stir in the chocolate For the panna cotta Leave to cool, then stir in the
pieces mixture. Pour one-third of the 500ml double cream rosewater and transfer to the
300ml double cream cream cheese mixture over the 50g caster sugar fridge until the mixture is just
500g full-fat cream cheese chilled base, and scatter over 3 gelatine sheets starting to gel and hold its
75g caster sugar 100g raspberries. Follow with 3 tbsp. rosewater shape, about 40 minutes. For
3 large eggs another third of the mixture, and the raspberry layer, roughly crush
400g raspberries another 100g raspberries, then For the raspberry layers the raspberries in a bowl with the
icing sugar, sifted, to dust pour over the remaining mixture. 200g raspberries rosewater and icing sugar, then
6-7cm deep, 20cm-square Place the tin on a baking tray 2 tbsp. rosewater divide half the mixture between
loose-bottomed tin and bake for 45-60 minutes, until 2 tbsp. icing sugar 4-6 glasses. Spoon over half
the surface of the cheesecake is the chilled cream mixture and
Grease the sides of the cake tin tinged a pale golden colour, and To decorate place in the fridge for 30 minutes
and line the base and sides with the centre has a slight wobble. 3 tbsp. pistachios, crushed to firm up. Divide the rest of
2 wide strips of non-stick baking Turn off the heat and leave the fresh, the raspberry mixture between
paper. Break the amoretti into a cheesecake in the oven for 30 Unsprayed pink rose petals the glasses and top with the
food processor, add in the rice minutes, then remove to cool (optional) remaining cream mixture, then
flour and pulse to a fine crumb. in the tin on a wire rack for 1 Rose-flavoured Persian fairy return to the fridge for a few
Mix in the melted butter then press hour. Remove the sides of the floss (optional) hours to set. When ready to
the crumbs evenly over the base tin and place the cheesecake in serve, scatter over some crushed
of the cake tin and place in the the fridge overnight. Just before To make the panna cotta, pistachios and serve with rose
fridge to chill. Meanwhile, preheat serving, scatter over the rest of the place the cream and sugar in petals and fairy floss, if using.
the oven to 170°C/340°F/Gas 3. raspberries, sift over a little icing a saucepan over a low heat for
Place the chocolate and cream in sugar, and cut into 9 squares. 15 minutes, until the cream has

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 93


RECIPES

Raspberry and coconut the seeds and pour the purée into
semifreddo the measuring jug with the syrup.
MAKES 8 SLICES Whisk in the coconut cream, then
pour just slightly less than half the
For the raspberry layers mixture into the tin and place in the
180g caster sugar freezer for 1 hour. Sweet raspberry, and simmer over a low heat for 5
350g raspberries Meanwhile, to make the cucumber and mint minutes. Transfer to a bowl, cover
150ml coconut cream coconut layer, whisk the egg tabbouleh with a cloth and leave to cool.
whites until soft peaks form. SERVES 4 AS A DESSERT Put the caster sugar and 1tbsp
For the coconut cream layer Add the sugar, 1tbsp at a water in a small saucepan, grate
2 egg whites (or equal quantity time, whisking between each Serve the tabbouleh as a dessert in the orange zest, and place over
pasteurised egg whites if addition until firm and glossy. with the vanilla ricotta (below) a low heat. Once the sugar has
preferred) Without washing the whisk, or as a sweet salad with spicy dissolved into a syrup, remove
110g caster sugar whisk the coconut cream and Middle Eastern-style meat dishes. from the heat and let cool a little,
150ml coconut cream cream together until floppy then then add the limoncello. Remove
125ml double cream fold into the meringue mixture. 75g fine bulgar wheat 25g the skin and pith
125g firm, dry raspberries Spoon half the coconut mixture caster sugar from the orange and slice away
over the raspberry layer in the tin 1 orange each segment from between the
19cm x 11cm x 8.5cm tin and arrange the raspberries on 4tbsp limoncello membrane. Place the segments
top, then spoon over the rest of ½ cucumber, roughly peeled, in with the bulgar, then squeeze
Line the tin with cling film, leaving the coconut mixture and place in deseeded, finely diced the juice from what’s left into
a large overhang. To make the the freezer for 30 minutes. Pour 8 large mint leaves, finely the limoncello syrup, pour this
raspberry layer, put the sugar in a the rest of the raspberry mixture chopped over the bulgar and mix to coat.
saucepan with 125ml cold water carefully over the top (right to the 200g firm raspberries Add the cucumber, mint and
and place over a low heat. When top of the tin) and freeze overnight. raspberries to the bulgar, gently
the syrup becomes clear, remove To unmould, invert the For the vanilla ricotta mix to combine, then cover with
from the heat and pour into a serving dish over the tin with the 125g ricotta, drained cling film and chill until 30 minutes
measuring jug. overhanging cling film sticking out 1tsp icing sugar before serving. For the vanilla
Put the raspberries in a blender then turn up the right way. Leave for ½ vanilla pod, split and seeds ricotta, place the ricotta, icing
and whizz to a purée, then strain about a minute to loosen, then ease removed sugar and vanilla seeds in a bowl
through a fine nylon sieve set over the cling film outwards to release and mix to lightly combine. Serve
a bowl, pushing the purée through the semifreddo. Let soften for a few Place the bulgar wheat in a pan, with the tabbouleh.
with the back of a ladle. Discard minutes then slice and serve. pour over 200ml boiling water

94 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


THE ITALIAN JOB PAGES 74-79

Pizzette con Gorgonzola Heat the olive oil and garlic in a oil. Place a slice of Gorgonzola Combine the flour and yeast in a
e funghi (Gorgonzola and frying pan over a medium heat. on each pizzette followed by a large bowl, then tip on to a clean
mushroom pizzette) When the garlic turns fragrant, small pile of cooked mushrooms. work surface. Make a well in the
MAKES 30 X 8CM add the mushrooms and cook, Carefully transfer the pizzettes to centre and gradually add the olive
stirring, for a few minutes then the pizza stone and bake for 12 oil and 250ml tepid water.
splash of olive oil reduce the heat and add a few minutes until golden. Work the flour into the liquid
1 garlic clove, peeled and thyme leaves. Simmer until the Drizzle a little extra virgin olive using a fork, starting from the
bruised mushrooms have softened, oil on each pizzette, sprinkle over centre and moving outwards until
Swiss brown button adding a splash of water if they some sea salt and garnish with a you have a rough dough. Add the
mushrooms, cleaned and sliced become too dry. Season with sprig of thyme. Serve warm. salt and a few cubes of butter
few thyme sprigs, leaves only, salt and pepper and set aside. and knead into the dough. Keep
plus extra to serve Preheat your oven to 220C/425F/ Basic pizzette dough adding cubes of butter until it is
Plain flour, for dusting Gas 7 and place a pizza stone on all incorporated and the dough
1 quantity basic pizzette dough a high shelf. 500g plain flour is smooth. Place in a large bowl,
(see recipe, next) On a lightly floured work 10g instant dried yeast cover with cling film and place in
Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling surface, roll out the dough, 1tsp olive oil a draught-free spot for at least 1
Gorgonzola or other creamy flipping it around and over 1 ½ tsp. salt hour or until doubled in size.
blue cheese, sliced occasionally until you get a 40g butter, at room temperature,
Sea salt flakes roundish shape. Using the cookie cut into small cubes
Pizza stone cutter, cut out circles of dough.
8cm cookie cutter Rub each circle with a little olive

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 95


RECIPES

Torcinelli (potato fritters homogenous and smooth.


with aniseed) Drain the sultanas, squeeze
MAKES 15 out any excess liquid, then add
them to the mixture along with
Polpettine di melanzane possible. Place the sieve over a 1 large or 2 small Desiree the aniseed and a pinch of salt.
(aubergine polpettine) bowl and put in the fridge to drain potatoes (you need 175g cooked Give it a final stir – the dough will
MAKES 14-16 overnight. potato) be quite soft. Cover with cling
The next day, squeeze the 175g plain flour film and set aside in a warm
You will need to start this recipe a flesh to release any remaining 1 tsp instant dried yeast place for about 1 hour or until
day ahead. liquid (you should have about 40g caster sugar, plus extra for doubled in size. Heat enough oil
250g drained aubergine) then dusting for deep frying in a heavy-based
2 medium aubergines chop finely. Transfer to a large 30ml tepid milk saucepan or deep fryer to 180C.
1 egg, lightly beaten bowl and add the egg, parmesan, 1 egg With well- oiled hands, take 1
40g parmesan cheese, grated breadcrumbs, mint leaves and a 40g sultanas, soaked in warm heaped tablespoon of dough,
40g breadcrumbs, plus extra to pinch of sea salt. Mix well with water for 10 minutes roll into a short baton then twist
crumb a spoon to combine. Wet ½ tsp aniseed so that they form the traditional
10 mint leaves, finely chopped your hands and make golf ball- Grapeseed or peanut oil, for shape. Repeat with the remaining
Grapeseed, peanut or sunflower sized polpettine with the mixture frying dough. In the hot oil, cook 3-4
oil, for frying before rolling them gently in the Light olive oil, for rolling torcinelli at a time for 2-3 minutes
extra breadcrumbs. If the mixture Ground cinnamon, for dusting on each side until pale golden all
Food thermometer doesn’t hold together, simply add over and cooked through. Break
a few more breadcrumbs and Food thermometer open the first torcinello to check
Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/ re-roll them. In a small saucepan it is cooked and adjust the oil
Gas 4. Place the aubergines on or deep fryer, heat enough oil Scrub the potato and place in a temperature, if necessary, before
a roasting tray, prick a couple of for frying to 180C. Test the small saucepan of salted water proceeding with the remaining
times with a fork, then roast for temperature by dropping in a and bring to the boil. Simmer, torcinelli. Drain on kitchen paper,
about 45 minutes until the they cube of bread. If it turns golden covered, for about 30 minutes or then transfer to a bowl and toss
feel tender when prodded. Set in 5 seconds, the oil is ready. until tender. Drain, peel and mash in the extra sugar while still warm.
aside and when cool enough to Place a few polpettine in the oil then set aside and keep warm. Dust over a little ground cinnamon
handle, make a slit from the stem without overcrowding the pan Place the flour, yeast and sugar just before serving.
to the base. Scoop out the flesh and cook, turning regularly, for 4 in a bowl and lightly whisk to
and transfer to a fine-meshed minutes. Drain on kitchen paper combine. Add the warm mashed
sieve. Push the aubergine pulp and set aside while you cook the potato, milk and egg, and stir with
through it with the back of a remaining polpettine. a wooden spoon for 5 minutes
spoon to drain as much liquid as or stand mixer until the mixture is

96 FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA


Cannoli al cacao con ricotta 1 hour. To make the filling, mix the
(cocoa cannoli with ricotta) ricotta and sugar in a bowl until
MAKES 20-24 you have a smooth cream then set
aside in the fridge.
Grapeseed, Roll out the pastry on a lightly
Peanut or sunflower oil, for frying floured work surface to 1-2mm
1 egg white, for brushing thick. You can use a pasta
machine to roll out the dough,
For the pastry taking it down as far as the third-
250g plain flour last setting. Using the cookie cutter,
40g caster sugar cut out circles of dough.
2 tsp ground cinnamon Heat enough oil in a saucepan
2 tsp dark bitter cocoa or deep fryer to 170C or until a
2 tsp finely ground coffee scrap of dough dropped into the
50g cold unsalted butter, cut into oil bubbles immediately. Wrap the
small cubes dough circles around cannoli tubes
2 tsp white wine vinegar so the edges overlap slightly. Seal
50ml dry white wine the edges with egg white and press
1 egg, lightly beaten firmly. Brush a little egg white over
the shell as well. Cook the cannoli
For the filling tubes one at a time for 2-2½
600g firm ricotta minutes until brown.
Panino con porchetta into it with your fingertips. Roll up 150g caster sugar Lift the cannoli out with tongs
(porchetta rolls) tightly and tie with kitchen string (or take out the basket if using a
SERVES 12 at 6cm intervals. Place the rolled To serve deep fryer). Shake the shell from the
vitello on a wire rack in a roasting pistachio nuts, crushed tube and place on kitchen paper to
You will need to start this recipe a tin and set aside in the fridge, Icing sugar absorb any excess oil.
day ahead. uncovered, to rest overnight. If the shells don’t come off easily,
Remove the veal from the fridge Pasta maker (optional) leave them to cool slightly then hold
8 large garlic cloves, minced and pat dry with kitchen paper if 9cm cookie cutter them gently with kitchen paper and
1½ tbsp. rosemary leaves, finely the skin is damp. Allow it to come Metal cannoli tubes use the tongs to pull the tubes from
chopped to room temperature for 1 hour Piping bag (optional) the cooked pastry.
1½ tbsp. wild fennel or fennel before cooking. Preheat the oven Food thermometer Wipe the metal tube with kitchen
fronds, finely chopped to 160C/ 320F/Gas 3. Place the paper and wrap another uncooked
2 tbsp. sea salt, plus extra to vitello into the oven and cook for To make the pastry, place the flour, pastry circle around the tube, sealing
serve 3½ hours. At the end of cooking, sugar, cinnamon, cocoa, coffee it well with egg white. Repeat until
1 tbsp. olive oil turn up the heat as high as your and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. they are all cooked.
3kg veal loin attached, skin on oven will go for about 30 minutes, Scatter over the butter and using Fill the cooled shells with the
turning the veal regularly and your fingers, work the butter into ricotta cream, using a knife to push
To serve checking that it doesn’t burn. This the dry ingredients until the mixture the mixture in from either end.
Bread rolls ensures that the skin gets crispy. resembles breadcrumbs. Add the Alternatively, put the sweet ricotta in
Kitchen string Remove from the oven and rest vinegar, wine and egg and stir until a piping bag and pipe into the tubes
uncovered for at least 30 minutes. well incorporated. Tip the dough using a wide nozzle.
In a small bowl, make a paste Cut the bread rolls and slice on to a lightly floured work surface To serve, dip the ends of the
with the garlic, rosemary, fennel, the vitello. Pile the meat on each and knead for about 2 minutes cannoli in the crushed pistachio nuts
salt and olive oil. Score the flesh roll with pieces of crispy skin. until smooth. Wrap in cling film and dust with icing sugar.
side of the veal and rub the paste Sprinkle with sea salt and serve. and place in the fridge for at least

FOOD & TRAVEL ARABIA 97


LAST WORD WITH

Julie
Watson
Her career has taken her from South Africa to Dubai. Now head chef at
Nourish, Julie shares her vision of health and wellness through food
Did you always want to become a chef / restaurateur? In all honesty, it just happened. I have found myself in
this industry from the tender age of 9 or 10, helping our neighbour at the time, and decorated chef in our
neighbourhood, with a busy function, as some of his staff did not show. I was friends with his daughter and the two of us
were tasked to retrieve used crockery. It was on that evening that I got my first glimpse into the life of a busy kitchen. I
remember vividly the smells that came from the huge stock pots simmering away on the range. It was all very exciting for an
already adventurous little girl.

You are a champion of ‘Farm to Plate’ healthy organic cuisine; is this more difficult to achieve in the UAE? Oh yes. As
we all know, most of the produce found in UAE is imported. Trouble is, I cannot just get on the phone with a supplier every morning, ask
what’s good today, place my order and have delivery within a few short hours. What we do here at Nourish is research our suppliers. We
form close connections with our designated sales persons and ask for all the details on the produce that they source. We are very
selective on the origin of our produce, the treatment of the animals and the agricultural practises of the farms.

What does ‘good food’ mean to you? I consider good food to be ingredients processed as little as possible. Good food is produce
that has been treated with the utmost respect, left in its most natural, most nutritious, state. Good food is where time and natural resources
were spent to create it rather than money invested to find short cuts and capitalize on those who are naïve, too busy or just too lazy to take
the time in turning it into a meal.

Is there anyone you would like to cook for but haven’t yet got the chance to? I have cooked for many, many celebrities, world
leaders, influencers, comedians, even for Prince Harry, but the one person that I really wanted to cook for was Leonard Cohen. What I
enjoy most now a day, is entertaining friends and family at my home. I love throwing a huge party, and I almost always over cater.

What made you decide to open this new concept in Dubai? While going through interview processes to find my
place, my mind was set on having the right team behind me. The owners of Nourish were just that. Their passion for great
tasting, simple food shone through during our mutual interview, so we gave each other a shot, and it is working. Funny
enough, I was working on a concept of my own a few short months prior to developing this, and I titled it Nourish.

What do you like doing in your spare time? I do not know this thing you call ‘spare time’.
Being a chef and restaurateur is a labour of love. We give it all our time. We sleep, dream, and eat
F&B. My spare time, being driving to and from work, the hour of unwinding before bed
consists of some more R&D, a hot shower and a quick cuddle with my kitty, Sage.
LOL! Even my pets are named after food. I also have 2 beardies named:
Curry & Turmeric. When I’m really desperate for something not
relating to food, I paint, swim & braai!
nourishme.ae

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