An Aesthetic, Ethical and Critical Approach To Wearable Technologies, Smart and E-Textile Development

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WINNER OF THE EU HORIZON 2020 ‘INNOVATION ACTION’ ICT-36-2016 AWARD

AN AESTHETIC, ETHICAL AND CRITICAL


APPROACH TO WEARABLE TECHNOLOGIES,
SMART AND E-TEXTILE DEVELOPMENT:

A TWO YEAR INNOVATION ACTION STUDY [2017 – 2018]

A STARTS PROTOTYPING PROJECT


Diagram below: A selection of the Art, Design & Technology disciplines involved in WEAR Sustain. By Dr. Berit Greinke

CONTENTS INTRODUCTION
03 INTRODUCTION

04 WEAR PARTNER CONSORTIUM

06 THE STORY OF WEAR

07 VISION AND VALUES

08 KNOWLEDGE EXCHANGE, INSIGHTS AND OUTCOMES

10 WEAR SUSTAIN NETWORK: WEAR Sustain, set out to create a Pan-European Network, to aid In doing so, we have informed and inspired designers and developers to adopt ethical and
sustainable workflows in their practices and throughout the lifecycle of their products.
THE DEVELOPIMENT OF A PAN-EUROPEAN WEARABLES PLATFORM the development of emerging projects and provide resources for
wearable technology, smart textile and e-textiles sectors, in order WEAR Sustain has provided these teams with mentorship, services and support from industry
11 A SUSTAINABILITY STRATEGY AND TOOLKIT FOR THE FUTURE to create a more ethical and sustainable collaborative design, experts and hubs for collaborative working, providing opportunities for all to contribute to
developing a strong sustainable strategy and online toolkit for future teams, packed with
13 SUCCESSFUL RESULTS development, and distribution process, and ecosystem for a the resources necessary to exchange knowledge, support them and maintain the ethical and
more responsible future. sustainable wearables ecosystem for the future.
14 EXPERTS, MENTORS AND HUBS: Alongside our funded teams is a larger network ecosystem of creatives, technology experts,
THANKS AND HIGHLIGHTS Funded by the Horizon 2020 Work Programme 2016-17, ICT 36 Innovation Action, under the business leaders, academics and other stakeholders who offer novel, sustainable and ethical
umbrella of the DG-Connect STARTS initiative, to foster new innovation at the nexus of ways of working within the wearables, smart and e-textiles sectors.
'Science, Technology and the Arts', this ICT project, now called ‘STARTS Prototyping’ by the
16 WEAR SUSTAIN FUNDED TEAMS: commission, set out to enable creative people and technologists to work together to produce We could not have achieved such profound success without the help of a vast number of
CREATIVE AND TECHNOLOGY COLLABORATION – SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION OUTCOMES unconventional and compelling new products, taking advantage of the existing structures experts, mentors, hub leaders and other service providers, who gave unrivalled and dedicated
involved in the education, research and economic support of the creative industries. Our support to the teams, helped raised awareness, and promoted this new and promising
40 SUPPORTING ORGANISATIONS strong emphasis on ethical and sustainable materials sourcing, design, development, workforce movement of more socially and environmentally beneficial practices in the fashion, textiles
and manufacturing, aimed to tackle issues of data privacy, collection and use, as well as and technology sectors.
labour practices within the fashion, textiles and technology industries, addressing the huge
environmental impact of these sectors. WEAR Sustain aims to become a recognised and paradigm shifting framework for future novel
The WEAR Sustain project has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme under grant agreement No. 732098. The sole products and projects, with essential ethical and sustainable approaches to innovation within
We have provided knowledge exchange opportunities and encouraged cross-sector and cross- the fashion and textiles, materials science, smart, e-textile, and technology sectors, leaving a
responsibility of this publication lies with the WEAR Sustain Consortium. The European Commission is not responsible for any use that may be made of the information
contained therein.
border collaboration, funding a total of 46 exciting and diverse projects from across Europe. lasting mark and making the world a better place for society and consumers.

3
WEAR PARTNER CONSORTIUM
Lucy Bunnell is an experienced Project Manager “Sustainability has many meanings. Blumine deals
with an Organisational Psychology and Events with economics, production, communication and
Management background. She has worked on consumer culture to enable sustainability in the
WEAR sustain in a project management and fashion, design and textile industries. Companies
research capacity; responsible for coordinating and need to review their production, communication
supervising activities, working alongside external and financial strategies in a sustainable way.
collaborative partners in ensuring successful Few have within them the experience to do it.
www.imec-int.com/en/home www.uca.ac.uk delivery of project outcomes. www.udk-berlin.de/startseite www.qmul.ac.uk www.digitalspaces.info www.blumine.it/it/Default.aspx Blumine multidisciplinary team offers them skills
for the development of new products, redesign
imec is the world-leading research and innovation University College for the Creative Arts (UCA) is Universität der Künste Berlin (Berlin University of Queen Mary University of London (QMUL) is one Digital Spaces Living Lab is one of the leading Blumine Srl was founded in 2010 in Milan, Italy as of organizational models, implementation of
hub in nanoelectronics and digital technologies. a specialist university that has created a unique the Arts) is one of the biggest, most diversified of 24 leading UK universities represented by the living labs in Europe. DSLL was founded in 2008 in a pioneering consultancy to fashion, design and communication projects that focus on the ability
The combination of our widely acclaimed community for students, where like-minded and traditional universities of the arts in the Russell Group, and with 25,332 students, 4,000 staff Sofia, Bulgaria. In the last 10 years, it has conducted textile companies in Ethical Sustainability, to reduce environmental impact, to generate
leadership in microchip technology and profound people can share in the creative process and inspire world. The teaching offered at the colleges of and an annual turnover of £400m, we are one of many technology validation trials in the fields Sustainable Innovation, Circular Economy at the lasting growth, guarantee social conditions
software and ICT expertise is what makes us one another. Oscar-winning filmmakers, world- Fine Arts, Architecture, Media and Design, Music, the biggest University of London colleges. The of smart cities, mobile apps, wearables, games, intersection of economics, design, production and to improve safety, health and better
unique. By leveraging our world-class infrastructure renowned fashion designers, television presenters, and Performing Arts, as well as at the Central results of the most recent national assessment digital media, etc. It has won several European communication, fostering ethical social innovation living conditions”.
and local and global ecosystem of partners celebrity jewellers and Turner Prize nominees are Institute for Continuing Education/ Berlin Career of research – the Research Excellence Framework Living Lab competitions and has participated and new opportunities for the creation of added
across a multitude of industries, we create just some of the high-profile graduates from UCA. College encompasses the full spectrum of the (REF 2014) – have confirmed our place in the very in many European research and innovation value to SME.
groundbreaking innovation in application domains arts and related academic studies in more than 70 top group of research-led universities in the UK. projects. For the last 8 years DSLL has been one
such as healthcare, smart cities and mobility, UCA’s Centre for Sustainable Design (CfSD) has datascouts.eu courses. Having the right to confer doctorates and Overall we were ranked 9th in the UK among of the special partners of the European Satellite Today, bridging Sustainability with Digital
logistics and manufacturing, and energy. built world-class knowledge and expertise of postdoctoral qualifications, Berlin University of the multi-faculty universities and 5th in the UK for Navigation Competition (https://www.esnc.eu ), Technologies, Blumine is engaged in advancing the
sustainable innovation and product sustainability. DataScouts is an Ecosystem Intelligence Platform Arts is also one of the few art colleges in Germany research outputs, and QMUL hosts the multi- supporting the winner and finalists of the annual culture of Sustainability. Blumine provides state of
As a trusted partner for companies, start-ups The Centre researches, develops and disseminates that helps to build expert communities. The with full university status. million pound Media and Arts Technology Centre global GNSS Living Lab Prize, including companies art skills in sustainability audits, tailoring
and universities we bring together close to 3,500 present and future sustainability impacts and platform allows to map all the relevant actors in an which trains researchers in the skills needed for and projects like Safety Truck (UK), PPP WizLite sustainability long term goals and short term
brilliant minds from over 70 nationalities. imec is solutions related to innovation, products, ecosystem, to allow them to present themselves, UdK Team: Dr Berit Greinke, Florian Sametinger the Creative Economy. (France), GoWalk (UK), TagStory (Norway), Ampido action plans, targets and KPI for projects'
headquartered in Leuven, Belgium and also has technologies, services and systems through projects, to share knowledge and to contribute to building (Germany), SellNews (Germany), Vamos (Germany), success, including supplier-customer dialogue and
distributed R&D groups at a number of Flemish training, events, networks and information. a vibrant network. The platform automatically QMUL Team: Dr. Nick Bryan-Kinns, Geo-Coupon (Taiwan), etc. In the last 2 years DSLL cooperation. Blumine contribute to a competitive
universities, in the Netherlands, Taiwan, USA, enriches missing company information and collects Rachel Lasebikan. has been one of the key consortium partners in media landscape favorable to Sustainability and
China, and offices in India and Japan. In 2015, imec’s The Team: relevant social media feeds and news streams from the WEAR Sustain (https://wearsustain.eu/) €3M social innovation in the fashion industries, the
revenue (P&L) totaled 415 million euro and of Dr CC Baker, BA, MASc, PhD, Reader in Interface the internet. The collected data is aggregated Supported by: James Weaver and Sankun Liu, project, funded by the European Commission market, the media and society with its digital
iMinds which is integrated in imec as of September and Interaction, School of Communication Design and translated into relevant insights, trends QMUL School of Electronic Engineering and Horizon 2020 research and innovation initiative, to platforms sustainability-lab.net and change-makers.
21, 2016 52 million euro. at UCA. Her practice is focussed on performance and innovations. DataScouts facilitates building Computer Science. support the wearables and smart textiles industry it as well as publishing reports, books, articles
and emerging technologies, with emphasis on collective intelligence, based upon a common in Europe. Wear Sustain has selected, funded and and participate to events in cooperation with the
imec Team: Heritiana Ranaivoson wearable technologies and mobile phones used as knowledge base and a shared network incubated 46 projects in two Open Calls (https:// Politecnico di Milano and Catholic University of
a performance tool and collaborator. Dr Baker was of connected organizations. wearsustain.eu/awardees/). DSLL offers Living the Sacred Heart, Milan and textiles and fashion
the initiator and a principle investigator of WEAR Lab technology validation trials with real users to brands and top fashion trade fairs all over Europe.
Sustain. She is also participant partner in a new DataScouts Team: Ingrid Willems, Jan companies developing novel wearable devices and
follow-on EU project called STARTS Ecosystem Vansteenlandt, Emeline Martin, Natan De Bie technologies.
starting in 2019. camillebaker.me

4 5
THE STORY OF WEAR VISION AND VALUES
WEAR SUSTAIN: WEAR Sustain began with the projects, enabling digital transformation with
CCI engaging creative urban ecosystems as digital
• Make citizens, entrepreneurs and other
stakeholders more aware of the ethical and
meetup group e-stitches, run launchpads, which had iMinds as coordinator. aesthetic issues in making and use of wearable
“We consume our earth’s natural resources to create and make, with an impact on our environment and upon those who have played by Camille Baker and Melissa Digital Spaces Living Lab is one of the leading labs technologies.
in Europe, performing validation trials of wearable
a part in producing and supplying the raw materials that we use each and every day. Artists and creatives are communicators and can Coleman in London, and a desire technologies and products, some of them in the
e-stitches carries on the WEAR Sustain legacy,
as it grows from one location in London, to four
highlight environmental, social and economic themes in our work...as designers, creators and makers we can play an important role in to spread the network wider and framework of EU projects like GEPAS, the E-GNSS
locations in London, Bristol, Berlin, and Limerick,
Accelerator and eCultValue. The Creative Ring
informing and inspiring others to see the world differently and act more sustainably.” further. The consortium partners launched as a sustainability action from CreatiFI
with the promise of a New York group. Many
members involved in WEAR Sustain projects
and other associated EU projects, and the WEAR
Professor Martin Charter and Scott Keiller, Director and Co-ordinator – Sustainable Innovation, The Centre for Sustainable Design ®, UCA bring a deep motivation and Sustain consortium worked closely with them
as mentors, hub leaders, experts, and project
members will also carry on our good work. Related
passion to influence and change to disseminate and support our activities
to WEAR Sustain and starting in December 2018
across Europe.
industry practices. is the EU funded REFREAM project. In addition,
other projects funded by the EU DG-Connect
CONTEXT OF Technology is becoming more personal, less embedding electronics ethically, sourcing
We all want to stop harming the environment, stop
ORIGINAL AIMS OF department, under the STARTS initiative, are the
visible, and yet more connected and ubiquitous. locally made components, recycling and/ STARTS Prize and the STARTS Residencies (also
WEAR SUSTAIN Numerous technology companies and startups are or upcycling of both non-electronic surreptitiously surveilling on customers and users, WEAR SUSTAIN: called VERTIGO), with the soon-to-follow STARTS
working to make the next big wearable device or and electronic parts, avoiding waste and contribute to better ways of working for the
Lighthouse Pilots and STARTS-ecosystem.
application for body data tracking. by fabricating made-to-measure benefit of the planet and society. Change in life- • Develop a sustainable European network of
At the core of wearables wearables, and economical cycle product development practices is necessary, stakeholders and hubs, to connect and push
especially within the electronics industry and
businesses are the devices Aside from privacy issues, there are significant application of new materials.
supply-chains, but also in the fashion and textiles
the boundaries in the design and development
ethical issues around social, environmental, Strategies already of sustainable and ethical wearables, electronic
and applications that collect labour, and supply-chains, in fashion, textiles and developed for the end of industries and how they make their products. and smart textiles;
What drives us in WEAR Sustain, is to contribute to
a growing amount of personal technology industries. It is timely and urgent wearables’ lives - including
product innovation with purpose and soul, to build • Encourage cross-border and cross-sector
that the use and deployment of the devices is recycling or disposal, and
body data, often without users’ changed in ethical and sustainable ways, and the advocation for the a network of like-minded pioneers and to start a collaboration between creative people and
technology developers to design and develop
movement of change before it's too late for Earth.
awareness or even consent. that users become more aware and educated use of modular systems
wearables, electronic and smart textiles;
about the critical side of the design of wearable that not only ensure
This wearable technology technologies, electronic textiles and smart fashion, that the garments and WEAR Sustain has its lineage in previous EU • Develop a framework within which future
and their environmental impacts. From a business devices can be worn for projects of the partners. Camille Baker and Rachel prototypes can be made that will become the
fervour raises important ethical point of view, improving awareness of privacy longer and be washed, Lasebikan worked together on FET-Art / ICT & Art next generation of what ethical and aesthetic
issues concerning the lack of issues may also encourage consumers to use these but also that technology Connect, which focussed on bringing artists and wearables, electronic and smart textiles could
trusted products more often. and carrier material can technologists together to make new art-based and should be;
privacy and corporate be separated once one of them outlives the technological innovations. This was followed by
the ICT & Art Connect Study, which Baker was an • Lead the emergence of innovative approaches
ownership of personal data WEAR Sustain is now contributing to the European other–were the starting point for WEAR Sustain
to design, production, manufacturing and
Commission’s sustainable strategy, which includes project and funded teams to address and surpass. Photo: David Gauffin advisor for and iMinds a partner (now merged with
for consumerist agendas. ethical employment of labour, workshops for Brussels-based imec). Ingrid Willems and Heritiana business models for wearable technologies; Photo: Rachel Lasebikan, Critical Wearables Research Lab,
Ranaivoson worked on CreatiFI and related FIWARE Creativeworks London.

6 7
KNOWLEDGE EXCHANGE, PRESENTATIONS
• Mikser Festival Belgrade 2017
• Vienna Maker Faire 2017
Visit WEAR Sustain on www.slideshare.net

INSIGHTS AND OUTCOMES


• Creative Ring Eindhoven 3rd Innovation
Clinic 2017
• Wearable Technology Show 2017 & 2018 PUBLISHED MATERIAL
• Fashion: Paradigm Shift 2017
The WEAR Sustain consortium have been
• TechStyle: The World of Wearables 2017 involved in conferences and presented papers
WEAR Sustain designed its WEAR SUSTAIN EVENTS their fields and a discussion format integrated
into every local event.
• Eindhoven, Netherlands, support event,
18-19th May 2017, Natlab • WEBIT Festival Europe 2018 at the following:
programme to foster cross- Matchmaking and Knowledge Exchange events • Hack Belgium 2018 Conference paper – James Weaver, Creative
border, cross-sector interaction, were organised at the start of the project to Each event clearly outlined the sustainability Collaborations Between Artists and Technologists,
knowledge exchange and co- trigger new collaborations between creative
and ethical challenges, issues, opportunities and OPEN CALL 2: • FABelgrade 2018
August 2017, Inter/sections — Ethics and Politics in
successes faced within the wearables, smart or • WEBIT Festival 2018 Media and Arts Technology, September 2017
people and technology developers, to kick off
e-textile sectors, as well as arts-tech collaboration,
creation. Via a series of events, a Europe-wide structured dialogue on the ethics
challenges and opportunities. Interdisciplinary
• Aarhus, Denmark, launch/support event,
• FutureFest 2018
and sustainability of wearables, smart and e-textiles, 2nd November 2017, Creativity World Forum, VSMM workshop – WEAR Sustain Open Call 2 –
two competition rounds, privacy and corporate data capture, and to inform
teams and their methods of collaboration were Aarhus University • Torino Fashion Week 2018 DRHA Data Ache, VSMM September 2017 – The
discussed, critically looking at perceptions of
online network mapping, as stakeholders of upcoming competition Open Calls.
difference between ‘creatives’ and ‘technologists’, • Athens, Greece, launch/support event, • Digital Assembly 2018
23rd International Conference on Virtual Systems
& Multimedia
well as webinars and surveys, and harnessing strategies and tools for creative 16th November 2017, B&M Theocharakis
• Ars Electronica 2017 & 2018
collaboration through existing research and Foundation for the Fine Arts and Music
the WEAR team has harnessed COMPETITION OPEN observation of projects taking place as part of • Global Fashion Conference 2018
Journal article – Baker, CC., Bryan-Kinns, N., Greike,
• Paris, France, support event, B., Ranaivoson, H., WEAR: Wearable technologists
the insights needed for the CALLS EVENTS WEAR Sustain. There were clear acknowledgments 22nd November 2017, ENSAD Lab, Paris Engage with Artists for Responsible innovation:
of hard work needed to aid interdisciplinary
project’s ethics and sustainability collaboration. • Milan, Italy, support event, WEBINARS
Processes and Progress, `Virtual Creativity (VCR)’
Over each competition period, WEAR Sustain: Intellect Press Vol 8 (1) December 2018 available
recommendations. 30th November 2017, BASE Milano
online (in December 2018)
1. Engaged artists, designers, technologists • Guimaraes, Portugal, support event, Harnessing the expertise of experts in their fields, https://www.intellectbooks.co.uk/journals/
The Project consortium partners took on geographic and engineers across the EU to apply to the WEAR EVENT LOCALITIES 6-7th December 2017, IDEGUI - Instituto WEAR Sustain organised a number of webinars view-journal,id=179
competitions de Design de Guimarães aimed at those who were unable to participate
responsibilities, based on their physical locations
at local events. Webinars targeted potential
and contacts, to build local networks and to support 2. Encouraged key players in the ecosystem to OPEN CALL 1: applicants, funded teams and a wide variety
Conference paper – Nick Bryan-Kinns, QMUL,
Camille Baker, UCA, Berit Greinke, UDK, Heritiana
promotion, communication, and dissemination. participate in local matchmaking, networking
The partners have grown audiences across the EU, and Knowledge Exchange events • Sofia, Bulgaria, launch/hackathon event, WEAR PARTICIPATION of experts willing to support the exchange of
knowledge, to improve ethics and sustainability in
Ranaivoson, imec, Rachel Lasebikan, QMUL,
Yongmeng Wu, QMUL, and Sankun Liu, QMUL.
engaged local project hubs and partners to create
awareness and understanding in local languages 3. Engaged potential mentors, hub leaders and
30th March 2017, Smart Fab Lab IN KEY EXTERNAL the wearables and e-textile sectors. The webinars Wear Sustain Network: Ethical and Sustainable
were recorded, edited and made available on the
and ensured that a good balance of European experts to get involved directly with
selected teams
• Barcelona, Spain, support event,
20-21st April 2017, Barcelona FabLab
EVENTS INCLUDES: project’s YouTube account. These will also be
Technology Innovation in Wearables and Etextiles,
Global Fashion Conference 2018, October 2018 :
regions have been represented in the project.
available and utilised in the Sustainability Toolkit http://gfc-conference.eu
4. Promoted the online network’s facility for • London, UK official launch event, • Berlin Wearit Festival 2017 resources in the new Network Platform at the end
foster new partnerships 3rd May 2017, Digital Catapult of the WEAR Sustain project in December.
• Milano Digital Week 2017 WEAR Sustain - Sustainability Strategy Toolkit
The events took various formats, such • Brussels, Belgium, support event, Development, Dr Berit Greinke, Design Research
• Digital Futures, E-Stitches 2017 https://www.youtube.com/channel/
as hackathons, symposia, showcases and 17th May 2017, MAD Brussels Lab, Universität der Künste Berlin, IEEE GEM Berit
consultations, with presentations by experts in • WeAreTechWomen Conference 2017 UCi9OvkXVb1uS1at9FRrXCNQ) Aug 2018 b.greinke@udk-berlin.de || www.drlab.org

8 9
WEAR SUSTAIN NETWORK: A SUSTAINABILITY STRATEGY AND
THE DEVELOPIMENT OF A PAN-EUROPEAN WEARABLES PLATFORM TOOLKIT FOR THE FUTURE
Wear Sustain invested in The platform is endorsed by 40+ ambassadors; field of wearables and e-textile and can support • Be present on the leading wearables
The goal of WEAR Sustain ethical labour and business practices, and assessment will help to determine how to either • Developing collaborative communities and
expert hubs, corporates and investors ready to and provide services to new startups and teams and e-textiles platform in Europe;
developing a pan-European incubate and accelerate wearable technology in these areas. is to develop best practices
interdisciplinary collaboration within the improve an already sustainable and ethical practice, local ecosystems, and the supply chain in this
• Get access to information about the technology and creative industries, for more adopt or even develop new future practices niche field.
network of e-pioneers in ethical innovation and to promote ethics and
sustainability as a core enabler for the future. The WEAR Sustain online network will evolve
stakeholders in the ecosystem, technology for enabling, facilitating, critical, aesthetic, sustainable wearable technology, in wearable technologies, smart textiles and
and sustainable wearable tech. trends, news and events, as well as innovations, smart textiles and e-textiles, while addressing e-textiles, including full life-cycle and end-of-life
into the WEAR Sustain Platform in December 2. Data use: Ethical Private Data Storage,
The WEAR ecosystem is developed on 2018, comprising an expert community of
research findings, design models and methods and growing our Europe- ethical methods to safeguard data privacy. approaches to production, taking into account
The online platform, developed DataScoutsTM, a cloud-based platform developed e-pioneers in wearable tech, including many of
of adoption within the wearable technology,
wide wearable technology, impact on the present and future of society and
Collection and Non-Collection:
smart and e-textiles network, as well as living Knowledge and insights gleaned during the the planet.
and hosted by DataScoutsTM, and commercialised by Belgian startup We the most innovative companies in the field. The
lab technology validation trials and user smart and electronic textiles WEAR Sustain project have been synthesised
• Providing new models for limited or no
Connect Data. The platform allows communities Platform will provide an opportunity to fully data capture or processing from wearable
was designed to support the to map and monitor the heartbeat of their exploit the potential of e-textile and wearable
communities;
network, for collaborations and into the Sustainability Strategy Toolkit in the
technologies, especially users’ personal data,
emerging ecosystem in creating ecosystem by systematically characterising technology, the network of awarded teams, hubs, • Engage in open dialogue, collaborative
form of specific strategies, training, services THE TOOLKIT or anonymising and relinquishing ownership
organisations, exploring their community activity, mentors and the learnings from WEAR Sustain. It research and innovation with peers, exploring
innovations between artists, and resources, experts to contact and actions
of this data by technology manufacturers and
and developing sustainable and and spotting meaningful trends to discover what will enable cross-disciplinary and cross-sectoral and co-creating novel approaches as well designers, technologists and required to facilitate the evolution of ethical and Our sustainability toolkit aims to provide resources service providers.
sustainable wearable technology, e-textiles and
ethical products and services may be hidden patterns. DataScouts is used by collaboration to drive a global shift towards a as controversial ideas to solving common
engineers working on ethical smart materials. It aims to enable new partnerships
and advice to facilitate future collaborations
companies across Europe for Market Intelligence, more sustainable and ethical wearables, e-textiles problems, as they might turn out to be between SMEs, artists and designers, and
across Europe. Competitive Intelligence and Ecosystem and smart textiles industry. the next disruptive innovation in wearable and sustainable solutions and and collaborations with the support of WEAR technologists in the wearable technology and 3. Creating positive environmental, economic
Sustain advocacy hubs, within the sectors of smart smart textile sectors for novel and beneficial and social impacts the electronic, textiles and
Intelligence. The WEAR platform includes also technology;
The current WEAR Sustain online network has a network of maker spaces, fab labs, creative The Platform will provide best practices, curated technologies for a better future. fashion, smart textiles and e-textiles, technical innovations. It will guide these innovators with fashion industries on society:
• Contribute to and make use of fabrics, wearables and other ‘onbody’ and ‘inbody’
brought together the funded teams, experts hubs, living labs, accelerators, incubators and content and access to a wide range of diverse
the sustainability toolkit providing It has driven a movement toward electronics and engineering.
ethical and sustainable design research, design,
sourcing, development and manufacturing services • Tackling and improving ethical and
and mentors, hubs, other stakeholders as well investors, which are all actively working in the partners all along the value chain of wearable
as services and support businesses involved in technology. Join the new WEAR Sustain Platform,
recommendations, access to curated the evolution of wearables and for wearables, smart and e-textiles development environmental issues that include: poor labour
information and expert knowledge; The Toolkit draws from the online WEAR Sustain while addressing the following three categories: practices and working conditions within
sourcing, experimentation, design, prototyping, launching this December to: e-textiles that are more ethical, Network, made up of an ecosystem of artists manufacturing, mineral sourcing, supply chain
manufacturing and promoting sustainable and • Act as an expert in ethical and sustainable
ethical business models across Europe. • Connect with 1000+ designers, researchers, innovation, business or technical mentor critical and aesthetic, and and designers, technologists, experts, mentors, 1. Innovation and Collaboration: and end of life considerations.
hubs, service providers, and other industry
entrepreneurs, consultants, textile to teams; ultimately more sustainable for players. It will integrate with the network to • Ethical and sustainable business models, which
• Creating awareness for the environmental,
The network enables all industry players to: manufacturers, producers of electronic economic and social impact of wearable
components and ultimately consumers
• Demonstrate and promote your expertise, future generations. become a comprehensive platform supporting also use or exchange and share data ethically; technology innovation along the whole life-
activities and sell your consumable, ethical & future citizens, artists, designers, technologists,
> CONNECT involved in wearable technology and offer • Creating a digital ecosystem around ethical and cycle, right through to end of life and waste
sustainable fashion and wearables. entrepreneurs, and other industry stakeholders,
> COLLABORATE your products and services; Embedded in the WEAR Sustain online network, sustainability design and development for management for products.
in making more ethical and sustainable choices.
> SHARE INFORMATION the Sustainability Strategy Toolkit will provide Informed choice will be made based on the wearables, smart or electronic textile innovations;
> INTEGRATE SUSTAINABILITY Join at www.wearsustain.eu guidelines and best practices for design, materials resources of the network as well as a guided The WEAR Sustainability Strategy Toolkit, will be
AND ETHICS INTO PRACTICE • Supporting future artists and designers with
circularity, and product life-cycle development. self-assessment tool, which will help to available at the end of December 2018.
technologist and engineers, and industry
This will contribute to future innovation, sourcing, identify potential areas of improvement in the collaboration;
development, manufacturing, waste management, development process. Furthermore, the self-

10 11
FUTURE AND NEW
SUCCESSFUL RESULTS
• Introduce current funded
teams to investors, angels
DIRECTIONS AFTER and other funders to get
them to the next level;
WEAR SUSTAIN • Share the Sustainability
Throughout the WEAR Sustain project the WEAR Strategy and Toolkit with the
Consortium has met individuals, businesses and next STARTS project: STARTS WEAR Sustain’s main legacy and accelerators. All these industry actors have The most vital and pressing ethics and mobilised over 40 wearables and smart/e-textile
Eco-system, which starts in participated in WEAR Sustain Knowledge Exchange sustainability issues facing the wearables and advocacy hubs across Europe in the process. Many
organisations that are passionate about ethical
in spring 2019, to enable not focus has been to develop activities via events and symposia, and at WEAR e-textile industry were identified and put into of these projects, with the support of consortium
and sustainable research, design, sourcing,
development and manufacturing of wearables, only wearables and e-textiles a robust set of resources – a external events and meetups throughout Europe.
In addition, all actors are encouraged to engage
themes for both the Open Call competitions
and for discussion during Knowledge Exchange
partners, have successfully taken their prototypes
to market and many others are receiving venturing
art/design and tech teams,
and smart textiles and e-textiles. The WEAR
but other art-tech projects in Sustainability Strategy and with each other online, via the WEAR Sustain activities. In addition, a glossary was created to support from us to meet this goal.
consortium has identified within this emerging network to exchange knowledge and skills. map out commonly used terms in and around
ecosystem a strong willingness to collaborate, to the STARTS family to become Toolkit integrated into an wearables and smart/e-textiles, to be used as The project's Sustainable Innovation process,
more ethical and sustainable
exchange information and to share knowledge.
in their art-tech innovation ecosystem that will enable €2.4m creative and technology collaboration, a reference for communication between all Wearables Network, and knowledge exchange
Especially, new teams are looking for best sustainable innovation funding was administered participants involved in WEAR Sustain. activities have created a vast amount of
practices, support and mentorship along their practices; future design and technology by the consortium across two competition open media, publications and learning outcomes,
innovation journey. WEAR Sustain will continue • Eventually create or contribute teams, SME’s, researchers calls, resulting in the engagement of over 125,000 Applicants were required to address one or more highlighting key Ethics and Sustainability practices
facilitating the knowledge exchange within the to an accreditation system individuals across Europe, online and in person, sustainability themes in a critical and creative way, for collaborative innovation in wearables.
WEAR expert community. for future designers and and educators, and change- between March 2017 and January 2018, fostering proposing solutions to these issues. The themes were: WEAR Sustain and its 46 funded teams have
Our future directions include to:
development teams; makers, to integrate ethics 170 arts and technology cross-sector, cross-border received media attention, due to the vast array
teams and applications for funding. A project Use, Reuse or Waste of dissemination outputs by the WEAR Sustain
• Spreading the word and and sustainability into evaluation process and criteria, developed by the consortium. Press coverage has been received
• Create a new business leveraging the WEAR Sustainability Strategy and Batteries and Energy Sources or Generation
Sustain Platform, run by some of our Toolkit, to help the next future business and product WEAR Sustain consortium, focused on teams’
Sourcing and Life-cycle
across many countries and within some of the
creativity, business, team excellence, business most important wearables publications, such as
consortium partners, in order to expand and generation. development practices. potential and feasibility, as well as their ethical Data Collection and Privacy Wareable, Fashnerd.com and Forbes. The project
grow the platform further after the end of and sustainability proposals. Social and Workplace is listed by Wareable as one of the top 50
the project; wearable tech predictions for 2018, as as a
WEAR Sustain's pan-European ecosystem, was Body, Physiology and Somatics
• Create a consultancy business with our launched by the second month of the project, Services found to support the project teams “major driver”in the industry.
consortium partners, core experts, mentors in February 2017, communities of creatives, were grouped around:
46 teams were selected and funded to develop
and hub leaders, as part of the Sustainability technologists, engineers, hubs, experts and We are proud to be able to begin sharing the
their projects to collaborate and work together
Strategy – to train stakeholders and future mentors, all involved in the development of ethical Design and Aesthetics project’s outputs and initiatives mentioned here
to design and develop compelling aesthetic,
design teams, as well as to continue to and sustainable wearables, e-textile and smart Ethics and Sustainability (Environmental that form the basis of the strategies, training and
ethical, environmental, and sustainable solutions
present our achievements to keep the textile innovations. Hot spots that developed and and Social) resource material that will soon be launched in the
for wearable technology and smart or e-textiles.
momentum going; were identified were in London, Berlin, Milan, Sofia beta Sustainability Strategy Toolkit, due for release
ICT Technology Awards of €50,000 provided each team the means
and Eindhoven. in December. The toolkit will aid other teams of
• Create design, prototyping and living lab Prototyping to jumpstart their co-created prototypes, towards
collaborators in replicating the successful ethics
validation businesses from our consortium market-readiness, and to share their best practice
The project has engaged over 1000 regional, Data and Data Models and sustainability outcomes across other industries
partners and hubs; approaches to ethics and sustainability, as well as
national and international individuals and User Centred Design and European countries.
collaboration methodologies and outcomes. Each
• User test the toolkit with our most engaged agencies over its first 18 months, active in Business, Legal and Validation Trials team was matched with a mentor and provided
Hub leaders, nentors, current teams and expert education, research, industry and economic the expertise needed to support their work.
stakeholders in the network; Image: Developing the next iteration of the support of the wearables, smart and e-textile Living Lab Experiments
The WEAR consortium partners identified and
WEAR Sustain Platform, housing the Self industries, including start-ups, private and Business and Venturing
Assessment, Toolkit and Network. public funds, investors, corporates, incubators Business Ethics and Sustainability

12 13
EXPERTS, MENTORS AND HUBS:
LCF Hupa Mar Canet
Makers of Barcelona (MOB) ITA Gmbh Mart Brauer
Nine Degrees Products ixxy Michelle Hua

THANKS AND HIGHLIGHTS Robotriks


RWTH - ITA
Juan Pablo Garcia Sossa, Interaction Designer
and New Media Artist
Susan Kozel
Tara Baoth Mooney
Santachiara Kobakant Varvara Gulgajeva
SDU MakerLab Kulturzentrum Gorod E.V.
Sensing TEX Mae Fah Luang University
The following people and organisations have
provided invaluable support as Hubs, experts
Frank Becker, TU Berlin Sarah Kettley, Edinburgh College of Art Centrum Wiskunde & Informatie
Smart Fab Lab Many Pebbles REVIEWERS
Ghilaine Chan, BLaO Silvia Zancarli, Insituto Europeo di Design CITILAB Cornellà-Fundació
and mentors to both WEAR Sustain and to the Statex Marina Toeters, by-wire
Goran Andersson, Palago Valerie Lamontagne, 3lectromode CONENO Akram Alomainy
46 funded teams supported by the programme. Martijn van Strien, PostCouture
Jacob Skinner, Thrive Wearables Valerio Frascolla, Intel Creative Ring Textilburg Aleksandra Jovanic
We would also like to thank the people who
UMBRELLIUM LIMITED Maurin Donneaud
contributed to our webinars, giving their time and Jason Vicente, Aeguana Zoe Romano CTCR Anastasia Pistofidou
sharing their expertise. WeMake Metafas
Jonas Olsson, Sony Mobile Communications, Designlab Twente Andreas Kohler
INCIO AB WiredSussex Nora Wong
DFKI Anita McKeown
WEAR Sustain mentors were responsible for
advising and practically supporting the selected
Jussi Mikkonen, Syddansk Universitet HOME HUBS Edinburgh Napier University WEMAKE MILANO Patric Lind, Palago
Anna Ellis
Koen Snoeckx, Luscinus gcv and Creative Ring Proto&go, Adasol
teams during their projects. Hubs are local Adidas Makerlab Elisava Belizar Marinov
ambassador centres and formed the critical Kristi Kuusk, Estonian Academy of Arts Rachel Freire
structure and backbone of the WEAR ecosystem Marija Butkovic, Digital Marketing, Tech and
Aeguana EPEA
OTHER SUPPORTING Siena Art Institute Onlus
Catherine Delevoye
Rhiannon Hunt
Baltan Laboratories Goudza BV. Hackedby Charles Tijus
in Europe. Hubs offered a local, sometimes virtual,
home to a hosted team and offered specific
Innovation Consultant
Base Milano Hamburg Kreative Gesellschaft
MENTORS AND HUBS sourcebook
Christel De Maeyer
Rui Costa Monteiro
Martin Charter, The Centre for Sustainable Steinbeis-Transferzentrum Textile Technologien Ruzica Bogdanovic
services. We are grateful for the contribution they IMEM CNR Alice Selwood, Textile Design Cindy Kohtala
Design, UCA Takis Lybereas Tara Boath Mooney
have made to WEAR Sustain and look forward to Imperial College London Dr. Akram Alomainy
working with them in the future. Martin Mali-Karlsson, BLaO Anna Veglio-White Textile Museum Zane Berzina
ITA Antonio Lotito, Istituto Superiore Mario Boella Dr. Valerio Frascolla
Melissa Coleman, Simba Sleep, Pretty TU, Chemnitz, Germany Zoe Romano
Smart Textiles Becky Stewart, QMUL Fridolin Wild
Valeska Schmidt-Thomsen, UdK
MAIN MENTORS Nerea T. Ruiz, Instituto Europeo de Design Benjamin Munday Velarte
Irini Papadimitriou
Oscar Tomico, Wearable Senses Lab, Brookly Fashion + Design Accelerator Wearable AI
Jussi Mikkonen WEBINAR
Alain Heureux, Brussels Creative and Creative Ring
Anne Prahl, Concept+Design
TU Eindhoven, ELISAVA Candice May Roberts Yair Kira
Kristi Kuusk
CONTRIBUTORS
Paul Masri-Stone, Creative Technologist Cory Robinson, Linköping University, Sweden Leonardo Benuzzi
Borko Jovanovic, Polyhedra Yokna, Boriana
Peta Bush, Designer Maciej Bendyk Anne Prahl, Concept+Design
Cranz & Aguilar Zinc group
Burkhard Dümler, Adidas Peter Schreckensberger, Marina Toeters Dave Sandbach, Nine Degree Products
Donktech
Catherine Delevoye, Technoport SA UnitedDesignPartners KG Mariza Dima Lucas Evers, Waag Society
EPEA
Christian Linn, AWS-Institut Rene Beekman, Reaktiv
Francesca Perona, Designer MONITORING Marta Waydel Luis Miguel Girao, Artshare
Daniela Zavec, Titera Rhiannon Hunt, UCA Michelle Hua Professor Martin Charter
Diego Colina, Innovaris Professor Sandy Black, London College
Giles Lane, artist and designer COMMITTEE Natascha Radclyffe-Thomas Silvia Zancarli, Insituto Europeo di Design
HKU
Dilnoza Shaumarova, Polybius, Women Who Tech, of Fashion Susan Kozel, School of Arts and Culture,
Hugh Boys David Amar Paola Guimerans
Unu Wearable Solutions Malmö University
Image: Registered participants in the Ine Gevers Paul Masri-Stone
Online Network, August 2018

14 15
WEAR SUSTAIN FUNDED TEAMS: ADVENTURE INSTITUTE * AIRLIEF *

CREATIVE AND TECHNOLOGY COLLABORATION –


SUSTAINABLE INNOVATION OUTCOMES

Marion Joepera,
Adventure Dramaturg Petar Zhivkov,
CEO
+447521852433
opheliassisterster@gmail.com +359887686321
www.theadventureinstitute.com hello@airlief.com
www.airlief.com
instagram.com/adventure_institute
instagram.com/instituteofwander facebook.com/airlief
twitter.com/airlief_world
Photo: Marion Joepera © Airlief Team

Anthropocene is an immersive alternate reality reality games, professional wilderness education Airlief is an effective and innovative air pollution mask. This is a big advantage because the harder
adventure game inviting players into the unknown. and immersive theatre all with a common goal of mask. It is comfortable and is rather perceived as a breathing, higher humidity, and fogginess are the
The game is a 24-hour journey that gives the raising awareness about the human impact on the fashion accessory than a complicated air filtering biggest problems for all masks.
player a chance to reconnect to the wilderness environment. device. The 3-D-knitting technology for the front
in their own backyard and to become aware layer also allows artists and designers to customize
about the hottest environmental issues of their Preparations are currently underway for the mask and to apply different patterns
time. During the course of the game, the players the launch of the pilot games. depending on the users’ will.
acquire different survival skills and learn about
the human effect on the environment while The filters are 99% effective against PM2.5 (biggest
solving various clues to move forward on their killer in cities) and change based on how often the
adventure journey. The adventure experience is mask is worn and how polluted the environment is.
the first one of its kind to bring together alternate That’s why Airlief is developing a smart device and
a mobile app to track when you wear the mask and
how much the air is polluted. It will also be able
to notify you when to change the filter and when
the outdoor air is very polluted. The mask has a
smart ventilator that improves the comfort of the

* Call 1  T
 hese highlighted teams scored highest against our monitoring criteria * Call 1  T
 hese highlighted teams scored highest against our monitoring criteria
successfully throughout the duration of their project. successfully throughout the duration of their project. 17
BB STUDIO BENEFICIAL DESIGN INSTITUTE & WEAR WORKS * BETA LIGHT * BIOCOATILE *

by circular business models and services. We


Bushra Burge, created innovative solutions combining healthy Francesca Perona
Creative Director and Owner materials with 3D-knitting and implemented Material Technologies Innovator
electronic components for a truly circular product. Dr. Jane Scott
00447782379699 Following the Cradle to Cradle principles, we Barbro Scholz, Knit Design Researcher
bushra@bushraburge.com analysed carefully all the wayband’s components Project management Dr. Tiffany Wood
www.bushraburge.com/#/ghostnet and researched innovative materials with beneficial Soft Matter Physicist
aspects during making, using and reusing or +49 1794416029
twitter.com/bushraburge recycling. Easy disassembly was key for inserting bs@stuhmerscholz.de +447775321384
technical parts into the comfortable and skin- stuhmerscholz.de/betalight-our- info@biocoatile.com
friendly outer shell made for the biosphere. project-at-wearsustain network.wearsustain.eu/actors/
AWGjrp-L5CMOeXhOH_ri#general
Team credits: Ruby Hawliczek, Ida Urmas, Friederike
von Wedel-Parlow, Kevin Yoo
Photo: Friederike von Wedel-Parlow Photo: Tarvo Tammeoks © Biocoatile team

Partner credits: BFDA, EPEA, Yair Kira,


Lauffenmühle, Anne Prahl, Cory Robinson,
BB Studio's multidisciplinary team is currently BeneficialWorks is a joint project between Berlin TU Chemnitz BETAlight is a flexible light source that can be The project combines the best available materials What if we could harness natural properties of Working with a newly discovered functional
working on a new innovative experience using based Beneficial Design Institute and New York worn on the body and allows the user to adjust and methods after testing and considering biological materials to enhance the performance protein that is biodegradable and is produced by
in-house developed touch-visual-sound-sensory based WearWorks. Beneficial Design Institute Ida Urmas its shape, orientation, brightness and light different production and recycling methods. of our garments, without harming the harmless soil bacteria, Biocoatile is implementing
framework by enclothing the wearer in visually stands for positive cultural change that combines Circular Design Innovator temperature according to his or her needs. environment? safe alternatives to traditional toxic coatings.
striking garments with proprietary inflatable quality, innovation and beauty with sustainability +49 151 67452600 BETAlight is considered to be a product in several The protein technology physically -rather than
haptics integrated with virtual reality. This new in the field of fashion, textile and product design. i.urmas@bd-i.de BETAlight is not only a wearable light source. It possible markets such as personal consumer Biocoatile brings together soft matter physics, chemically- binds to a range of natural, synthetic
multi-sensory story highlights ocean pollution With a holistic approach of circular design systems www.bd-i.de is a concept that allows the user to use light as market as well as in elderly care and health. biotechnology and programmable knitting to and conductive materials, offering a wide range
through untethered headsets within a multi- inspired by the Cradle to Cradle philosophy we a material to create personal illuminated spaces envision sustainable, chemical-free, smarter textiles. of moisture-responsive properties to selected
player haptic integrated system. This VR-haptic combine artistic and scientific theories with Ruby Hawliczek and individual room situations by placing it fibres. Combining these enhanced properties with
© Bushra Burge hand painted in VR with googleblocks:
The Great Wave sea creature. experience is called "GhostNet" derived from the practice. WearWorks is a haptic design company Sustainability Project Manager somewhere in the room or by wearing it on the The textile industry frequently uses a range of biomimicry-inspired knitting construction, the
name given to abandoned fishing nets in the sea. developing an innovative tactile-based language +49 177 4975344 body. Implemented sensors are used to turn the chemical finishes on fabrics, to add functionalities team is unlocking opportunities for sustainable
with their first wearable device called Wayband ruby@wear.works light on and off, to control the brightness and that improve products’ comfort and adaptability performance-driven textile applications in line
BB Studio’s current project is being developed has been developed with haptic navigation www.wear.works adjust the light temperature to switch between to varied environmental conditions. These with the growing bioeconomy.
sustainably and ethically following a circular design feedback technology, targeted for the blind and the different light scenarios. The fully textile circuit treatments often contain toxic chemicals and
methodology using ethical materials and working visually impaired. We found this partnership to network.wearsustain.eu/actors/ makes the light source completely flexible, thin nano-particles that hardly degrade once dispersed
with an immigrant charity sewing production house. bring the wayband to a holistic and beneficial AWGkdd8R5CMOeXhOH_wc and lightweight. The shell is designed of a textile in the environment and instead bioaccumulate in instagram.com/biocoatile
wearable device, creating a sustainable strategy monomaterial, to allow easy recycling. our bodies. twitter.com/biocoatile
for circular material and product flows supported

* Call 2  T
 hese highlighted teams scored highest against our monitoring criteria * Call 2  T
 hese highlighted teams scored highest against our monitoring criteria * Call 2  T
 hese highlighted teams scored highest against our monitoring criteria
18 successfully throughout the duration of their project. successfully throughout the duration of their project. successfully throughout the duration of their project. 19
BIO METRICA BRAWAS BREATH BRIA

Franco Bercella, CEO Samuele Polistina,


Nicola Coppedè, CTO CEO
Brooke Roberts-Islam,
Bogdan Mijovi, +39 3939764432 Co-Director
3281113273
bercella@bercella.it Deputy Director sam@smartbreath.it
www.smartbreath.it +44 7939128531
nicola.coppede@gmail.com
+381652003933 brooke@brinnovationagency.com
www.biometrica.tech
bogdan@mbraintrain.com facebook.com/breathwearable www.brinnovationagency.com
facebook.com/BioMetrica- www.brawas.eu/ instagram.com/smartbreath
linkedin.com/company/breath instagram.com/bria_uk
SRLs-1896435020650450
twitter.com/BRAWAS1 twitter.com/smart_breath instagram.com/sabinna_com
vimeo.com/220632168 twitter.com/briauk
twitter.com/sabinna_com
© Biometrica © mBrainTrain © ph Milano Droni © BRIA + Matt Pril

BioMetrica project is focused on the development mBrainTrain has created one of the reportedly Breath srl is an Italian wearable company founded We are designing and developing a smart and The teams at fashion-tech innovation agency from solely cotton and viscose, which can then
of a smart t-shirt which monitors dehydration dream devices of the wearable future: on August 2017 by Paolo Belluco, Luca Orlandi, eco-friendly wearable computer system, integrated BRIA and forward-looking fashion brand be processed in different ways at the end of their
and saline loss in sports activity. The innovative Samuele Polistina and Clara Pozzetti (http://www. within the garment that supports users to SABINNA have collaborated to transform a use. The resulting fibres can be reclaimed via
technology in the smart t-shirt is based on textile BRAWAS - a smart headphone with a mood-based smartbreath.it). improve breathing. fashion capsule collection of wardrobe “staples” their new processes and recycled into other new
biosensors that are able to collect, analyse and music recommender. It helps people increase into new 100% biodegradable materials for use materials similar to paper, card, plastics and even
transmit data on the sweat amount and the productivity and decrease stress in their personal Breath! is a wearable smart garments collection Breath! is able to acquire and analyse biometrics in garment packaging and shop interiors. By wood, which can be used for garment packaging,
concentration of salts in the sweat. During sports and professional life, while being seamlessly that helps people who wear it viewing their breath data of the users and the system can visualize developing innovative processes for transforming tags, building shop interiors and many other
activity the loss of water and of salts like sodium blended into their daily routine. With Brawas, we and performing proper breathing during Yoga and the data on smart phone and directly over the garments into new recyclable materials, they applications.
potassium and calcium, are crucial in reducing are entering the new and the fastest growing smart Pilates practice and in everyday life. garment as a visual instant feedback. have successfully demonstrated that without
the athletes’’ performances. Using our wearable wearables category - hearable devices, and opening compromising on design, it is possible for brands Their aim was to produce a capsule collection
device it is possible to control the dehydration and our way to the consumers world. Our mission is to help people to live better in Comftech http://www.comftech.it/ is our to create commercial fashion that is circular, that maximises the circular aspects of production
saline loss and suggest an optimal rehydration, to everyday life. manufacture partner and Alessia Moltani supports with the potential to avoid millions of tonnes and recycling, whilst choosing the most ethical
improve the health and the performances of Breath for the industrialization, manufacturing and of garment landfill waste every year. and non-toxic chemical processes to dissolve the
the athletes. Proper breathing is useful in obtaining and distribution of the wearable smart garments. garments and reconstitute the fibres into new
maintaining a good general health status and we In order to demonstrate their new developments usable materials. By using chemical, not mechanical
believe that is a starting point to have a solid and to the fashion community, the teams at BRIA recycling, these methods require less water,
sustainable welfare of a country. and SABINNA worked together to co-design and generate less waste, require no bleaching and
produce a capsule collection of garments made have a lower carbon footprint.

20 21
BYBORRE CLOSED LOOP * CONSTRUCTING CONNECTIVITY * DATABLE

GenCloth.
Anton Bijl, Marina Toeters,
Creative Production Manager by-wire.net, fashion technology Constructing
Connectivity

31612949307 Margreet de Kok,


Elizabeth Bigger,
anton@byborre.com Holst Centre, printed sensor technology Jessica Smarsch
Co-Founder / CEO
network.wearsustain.eu/actors/ Director
AWGkdfj95CMOeXhOH_wf Melissa Bonvie,
+34 673.559.315
Katoen en zo, fashion design +31 6 21913094
eebigger@gmail.com
instagram.com/byborre jessica@jessicasmarsch.com
www.gencloth.com
www.jessicasmarsch.com/Constructing-
Connectivity-for-Stroke-Rehabilitation
instagram.com/generativecloth
twitter.com/GenerativeCloth
© Byborre © by-wire.net/clsaf/ Photography: Jessica Smarsch © Luis Fraguada

The development of garments with an interknitted Closed loop smart athleisure fashion is a new +31625451128 Constructing Connectivity is a person-centered Progress reports can be shared with the healthcare GenCloth is a 3D toolkit for the next generation of The GenCloth process begins with each individual,
chip enable customers to gain insights in the initiative based on previous work of Marina Toeters marina@by-wire.net stroke rehabilitation method. The system is based professionals, and patients can communicate with fashion designers. The toolkit includes a software shifting the focus from mass production to a
sustainable development of a garment. Moreover, (by-wire.net) and Margreet de Kok (Holst Centre). www.by-wire.net/clsaf on the multi-sensory, mind-body process of their therapists via the app while rehabilitating plugin + tools + databases to actively support customized and sustainable value chain. The
the incentive to share the garment creates The smart shirts continuously measures the ladies’ textile making. A stroke is caused by a blockage from home. After rehabilitation is complete, customization and rapid local production. These GenCloth databases aid in complementing
awareness for the post-purchase sustainability key vital signals based on Holst Centre’s advanced facebook.com/bywirenet or an eruption of blood in the brain, killing the patient can return their technological shirt tools aid in designing customized pieces for the 3D process with the open body database,
of the garment. printed sensor technologies on flexible substrates instagram.com/marina_toeters brain cells and paralyzing the body. Preliminary sleeves for reuse, and receive new and improved, clientele, speed up production timelines within sustainable textiles and notions, construction,
for textile integration. The laminated sensors linkedin.com/in/marina-toeters-a55a685 clinical evidence demonstrates that rhythmic, fashionable sleeves in return. The Constructing local micro factories, and aid in the production durability and alterability methods. The basis of
are truly wearable, comfortable, robust, invisible plus.google.com/+MarinaToeters multi-sensory stimulation creates more synapses Connectivity mission is to treat health from a of durable & sustainable designs that add value GenCloth research and development began in
during use, washable up to 25 cycles, and designed twitter.com/mtoeters between dying neurons of stroke patients than whole-person perspective, and to use design into fashion. 2010 in Barcelona, Spain. GenCloth is focused on
for unobtrusive integration in conventional uni-sensory stimulation. Using the Constructing sensitivity to engage the user in the multi-sensory contributing to the achievement of six of the
fashion production. Connectivity app, rehabilitation exercises are process and positively disrupt the standard of Globally as the fashion industry continues towards United Nations’s Sustainable Development Goals
combined with rhythmic sound and visual pattern- stroke care. sustainability and a healthier industry cycle, we for 2030.
This new collection targets fashionable sporty making, key aspects of textile making. The process look to the next generation of designers to help
ladies at office work and right after work, they fuses creativity with skill building, simultaneously with this mission. Enabling these future designers
embrace forward thinking. The closed loop lease utilizing both the right and left brain. Patient and future brands with fresh tools can help create
and recycle system make it extra special. progress is quantified by the custom wearable shirt more positive growth within the fashion industry
which monitors muscle use and body movement and produce correlating positive effects for our
and communicates the output to the app. planet, society and ourselves.

* Call 1  T
 hese highlighted teams scored highest against our monitoring criteria * Call 1  T
 hese highlighted teams scored highest against our monitoring criteria
22 successfully throughout the duration of their project. successfully throughout the duration of their project. 23
DYNABACK EDERA SAFETY GMBH & CO KG EMBODIED INTERACTIONS FLEXABILITY/ENABABLES *

FlexAbility team:
Mag. (FH) Thomas Saier
Lara Grant (US)
Sabri Mahdaoui, Industrial Designer / CEO
Adrian Freed (US), and
Manager
on your neck or keeping you company by your Anna Blumenkranz (DE)
+436604067777
+359896795330 t.saier@edera-safety.com desk. Nothing on the scarf betrays its technology
as all elements are seamlessly integrated into its www.flex-ability.org
sabri@dynaback-tshirt.com www.adamsfour.at
www.dynaback-tshirt.com design. Reframing what our relationship with both
instagram.com/_adamsfour_/?hl=en fashion and technology can be, Stylefree provides
facebook.com/Dynabacktshirt facebook.com/adamsfour- moments of comfort, mindfulness and awareness
instagram.com/dynabackproject 1781941385450626 and asks us to take a moment to reflect, be
linkedin.com/company/dynaback youtube.com/channel/ present, and re-appropriate our relationship with
twitter.com/DYNABACKProject UC4sqmcPgeHyuCyY6jHivuDg technological artifacts. Stylefree is conceived and
Photo: Sæunn Kjartansdóttir Photographer: Josy Jelić. Rider: Dominik Doppelhofer produced by Principled Design in collaboration © Anna Blumenkranz
with Bless and Umbrellium to push the boundaries
between the meaningful integration of design,
craft, electronics and what we consider the limits
DYNABACK delivers wearable technology a discrete alert when sitting or standing still for a LINKING DESIGN & SCIENCE TO potential, we merged electronics and design to of these practices to be. FlexAbility is a kit prototype created from ethically FlexAbility is an ongoing project with the goal
supporting a healthy lifestyle in everyday life. longer duration and provides long term insights REVOLUTIONIZE SAFETY. provide real time performance data from team and sustainability vetted components and parts to find people whose abilities are not currently
At the core, a functional base layer with an array and exercises educating the wearer about the need riders and test dummies that are looped back in Directed by Principled Design facilitating the creation of made-to-measure represented in the available assistive devices on
of sensors. The base layer connects with your to move more and better. Every year people suffer spinal cord injuries due to the design process. The result is a cost and weight Garment Design by Bless e-textile and wearable interfaces for people with the market. We aim to provide these people
Smartphone and a cloud service delivering realtime sports, traffic and working accidents. It is clinically optimized “passive” design causing a significant Photos by BLESS Mechanical and interaction engineered physical disabilities. To inform the design of kit with creative solutions using the advantages of
and long term insights about how you move. The MOVE BETTER While existing solutions tries to verified, that the majority of spinal fractures, reduction of spinal cord injuries. by Umbrellium sensors and accessories, FlexAbility includes its e-textiles and wearable technology.
base layer is developed with sustainable materials improve posture, DYNABACK works the other way spinal cord injuries and paraplegia are caused by Additional hardware and EE support by users as consultants for suggestions, feedback, and
and comfort to be worn throughout the day as an and stimulates natural movement. DYNABACK overrotation. The impact of what this product has to offer has Deqing Sun and Peiqi Su tests during our iterative design process.
undergarment or by itself. helps people to counter the occasion of back been scientifically proven, in cooperation with Stylefree offers a new way for people to have an E-textile development by Principled Design
pain and a sedentary lifestyle. MOVE TOGETHER Adamsfour. offers an escalation of back protection the medical universities of Vienna and Graz. The active relationship with their garments. A scarf With Support from Plot This kit is open-source and is being made
MOVE MORE The founding idea, is based on the DYNABACK is developed for everyone and for to a much higher level. This technology shall patented technology shall offer the ability of that transcends style, age and seasons breathes available to a network of designers, fabricators,
principals of the human body, movement and core every occasion. With the DYNABACK application prevent severe spinal cord injuries and surpass the protecting the back from the most common spinal gently as it rests on your chest, and heat tingles office@principled-design.com and community centers through a web portal
strength. In our modern society, we sometimes and community you move together with friends, capacity of existing back protectors on the market. cord injuries, often causing paraplegia starting from your neck. The more you wear your scarf the more along with informational and build documents.
sacrifice movement for a sedentary lifestyle. family or colleagues. sports to working gear and rehabilitation products. alive it becomes: its breathing pattern changes over bless-service.de FlexAbility is designed specifically for ease of use
DYNABACK measures and analyses your trunk Adamsfour. developed a Spinal Protector Device, time, heating up around your neck and adapting plotlondon.net and enabling customization of size and shape. For
movement continuously throughout the day and by implementing Electronics into their prototypes to how you wear and engage with it. As soon as prinipled-design.com example, a pressure sensitive e-textile sensor that
connects with a regular Smartphone. DYNABACK to create Machine Learning in the development you pick up your scarf it becomes alive, prodding umbrellium.co.uk can be cut into any size and shape by the user
alerts the wearer of incorrect movement, sends process. In order to unleash the full protective you to acknowledge its presence, whether resting while retaining its functionality.

* Call 2  T
 hese highlighted teams scored highest against our monitoring criteria
24 successfully throughout the duration of their project. 25
FLEXO FUNSUN KIDS FUTURE JEWELS IBREVE *

Flavia Wahl, CEO


Kristin Neidlinger, Biomedia Designer
Edwin Dertien, Creative Technologist Katharina Vones, +34 633790777
Auli Piedra,
Designer and Researcher info@ibreve.com
kristin@sensoree.com Technology Promoter
www.ibreve.com
e.dertien@utwente.nl 00441316644952
www.sensoree.com/flexo +34937419100
info@kvones.com facebook.com/SmarterBreathing
auli.piedra@eurecat.org
www.futurejewels.net instagram.com/_ibreve
facebook.com/Sensoree network.wearsustain.eu/actors/
linkedin.com/company/ibreve
instagram.com/sensoree AWGkXj1e5CMOeXhOH_v1
instagram.com/futurejewels plus.google.com/+iBreve
twitter.com/sensoree twitter.com/futurejewels twitter.com/iBreve
Photo: Gerieke ter Denge-Pluimers, DesignLab Original photo from pixabay.com, adapted by Sandra Echeverria. Photo: Katharina Vones © iBreve Ltd
University of Twente Designer: Paula Canet

FleXo – flexible exoskeleton for therapeutic pneumatic visual and haptic feedback. Biosensing Children love to spend time by playing under the recommendations for the adults to increase FutureJewels focuses on the creation of responsive, measure bodily impulses, such as heart rate and Founded by two former Google employees iBreve focuses initially on women’s health & well-
use – is a bioresponsive inflatable garment that is then employed to support and log emotional sun and in water, especially during summer time. their awareness of the sun exposure. wearable objects that create playful interactions temperature. This makes them both sustainable iBreve aims to create a world free of stress being and designed a discreet wearable which
communicates healing touch with extimacy - response to personalize experience. However, the risks of high solar exposure are by sensing bodily and environmental stimuli, and as well as particularly suited for use in a medical related diseases. can easily be attached to any bra. When fully
externalized intimacy. severe for everyone, especially for children. Modular design and sustainability are the main expressing these through activating elements context. To add to this, all non-recyclable developed iBreve’s unique technology is able to
In our research, the synergy of three fields actualized design drivers of Funsun KIDS. For example, the that contain lights or consist of colour changing, components such as thermochromic silicone iBreve’s digital health solution empowers self-care help patients with burnout, anxiety and chronic
When introducing robot or automated interactions a new conceptual system for mediated touch. Funsun KIDS teaches the sun-wise behaviour to electronics device is detachable, which enables chromic smart materials. Our project concentrates elements and electronic assemblies, are made fully by providing its users a better understanding of respiratory diseases.
in healthcare, the missing component is human Co-design with autism spectrum disorder (ASD) children and also to their caregivers. The core of long life-time with several textile bracelets and on exploring how playful, open-ended interactions accessible for easy removal, repair or replacement their bodies’ signals and more control over their
touch. Healing touch is a connection that produced self-mediation. Remote personalized the product is the textile bracelet, which reacts later as well with other accessories e.g. gloves. could benefit specific user-groups, such as those at the end of their lifecycle. emotional well-being. iBreve won several innovation challenges, received
communicates emotion and energy. touch was a result of physical therapy client caregiver to the environmental conditions and includes the Besides, material selections are made by taking with sensory impairments, autism spectrum funding for its dedication to sustainability & got
scenarios. And the study of Eastern energy and self electronics sensory device. In addition, Funsun the environmental issues into account. disorders and anxiety conditions to support Developing jewellery objects that encourage The iBreve wearable analyses breathing patterns featured in large newspapers around the world.
FleXo is a wearable soft exoskeleton to facilitate massage techniques (Chi) gave feedback on quality KIDS product has the app, where the monitoring particular therapeutic approaches such as the users to explore them tactilely and playfully by in real-time. Our machine learning algorithm
this healing therapeutic touch between a caregiver of pressure and the ability to convey energy. The results for UV Index, environmental temperature discreet monitoring of autonomic responses and responding to a change in certain stimuli, such correlates breathing patterns, activity & stress
and patient. As a wearable system, FleXo offers nexus of these three research areas helps define and humidity can be checked in details as well diversionary therapy. as an increasing heart rate, with surprising and level and can trigger a subtle vibration directly on
self management and communication of mediated this new paradigm of remote touch. kids can learn sun-wise behaviour by taking care enchanting metamorphoses while providing the device or send a notification to the phone.
touch for wellbeing. The unique platform of of the virtual animal, which requires sunscreen, The prototypes we have developed are made aesthetic intrigue to encourage this interaction, The iBreve coaching app then guides through
emotive biomedia validates and personalizes the sun glasses, shade etc. to stay healthy and from biodegradable chromic PLA, and incorporate is the main focus of this project.  personalized breathing and relaxation exercises
inflatable actuation into a new haptic language. happy through the summer day on the beach. optical fibres as well as sensors that can based on clinically proven methods.
Mediated touch is conveyed with silicone Funsun KIDS app offers also reminders and

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ID LABS KOBAKANT * MEDITATION LAB * MI.MU *

I D L A B S Adam Stark,
Managing Director
Mika Satomi & Hannah Perner-Wilson Danielle Roberts,
+447734 412 009
Ahmed ElMahmoudy, E-Textile Tailors Artist
adam@mimugloves.com
CO-Founder, CEO www.mimugloves.com
+49 0176 86804943 +31(0)765204082
+31684413901 koba@kobakant.at danielle@numuseum.nl
facebook.com/mi.mu.gloves
ahmed@id-labs.org www.kobakant.at/KOBA www.meditationlab.nl
instagram.com/mi.mu.gloves
www.id-labs.org twitter.com/mimu_gloves
diasp.org/tags/koba facebook.com/meditationlabnl
flickr.com/groups/4027026@N25 instagram.com/meditationlabNL
twitter.com/KOBAKANT
@COPYRIGHT ID Labs 2018 Photo by Aimee Shirley of Freunde von Freunden © Danielle Roberts - Awareness Lab © MI.MU / Adrian Lausch
www.fvonf.com

The Eye, The First Fashion Wearable Camera The development of new technologies is By running a tailor shop and interacting with Meditation Lab Experimenter Kit consists of a suit MLEK is being developed as an Open Source MI.MU exists to place human expression The MI.MU Gloves are a fusion of textiles and
monopolized by commercial enterprise, insuring potential customers, we want to re-establish and software. With the kit you can do your own project. All code, schematics and patterns will at the heart of music technology. electronic sensors. Combined with dedicated
The Eye is a unique device designed with the we all have access to the same solutions. As a relationship between the owner and the meditation experiments. You can discover how to become available so users can make or modify gesture detection and mapping software, they
combination between fashion design and the consumers we only need to choose which one is technology produced. The garments we make positively influence your meditation by changing their own Silence Suit using techniques like laser MI.MU is a team of specialist musicians, artists, offer a new and flexible approach to the control
latest state of the art of artificial intelligence “right for us”. To challenge this reality, KOBAKANT are tailored to fit you and function based on your environment. cutting and 3D printing. And they can build custom scientists and technologists developing cutting- of music and visuals through intuitive human
technology. The new stylish camera connects is running a year long experiment, KOBA: an your instructions. You can observe the process applications using the provided API. They can use edge wearable technology for the performance movement.
wirelessly to your smart phones and supports e-textile tailor shop. Only accepting bespoke of production through our windows. Our process The meditation suit Silence Suit houses 11 sensors the software off-line and have complete control and composition of music. The team have
different applications. These apps has a variety of commissions for individuals, we challenge our documented online where it is preserved for which combined measure 18 parameters about over their own data. developed the MI.MU Gloves - a wireless, MI.MU Gloves are now used by a community
uses from helping people with vision and memory customers to think creatively about what future repairs and alterations. your body and the environment. The suit has a wearable, gestural musical instrument musicians worldwide, ranging from pop star Ariana
problems to to identify faces and objects around, they want. wireless connection with the software belonging and controller. Grande, to film composers, to physical theatre
to giving a new experience of capturing exciting KOBA is a place where personalized technology to it: the Dataserver. It logs, displays and analyses practitioners.
moments in life by taking photos and videos. The Knowing what we want is a complicated question. is possible, a platform for the discussion, the data. The server is connected to a smart Led by Grammy award-winning musician Imogen
Eye is designed and developed by ID Labs and it Breaking outside the established applications experimentation and storytelling of light unit which can change colour during the Heap, MI.MU have captured worldwide attention
will be available soon for pre-ordering. of new technology is hard. Living in consumer alternative realities. meditation session. Before and after every session by showing that there is a better way to make
societies, it can be hard for us to see just how you fill in a questionnaire. A learning algorithm will music than with sliders and buttons – through the
removed we have all become from the decision predict from your answers which type of light is complex movement of the human body.
and production process behind the objects most suitable for you.
we own.

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28 successfully throughout the duration of their project. successfully throughout the duration of their project. successfully throughout the duration of their project. 29
MOGU * MYCOTEX NEFFA POPLAR SHOE QUIETUDE *

Maurizio Montalti,
Director R&D / Designer Aniela Hoitink, screen dark

Founder M. Erkam Narinç, Patrizia Marti,


+31 6 813 493 81 Textile Engineer Professor
mm@mogu.bio +31627494040
www.mogu.bio/project/rd- aniela@neffa.nl +90 543 646 99 24 +39 335 532 0963
mogu-leather neffa.nl/mycotex/ narinc15@itu.edu.tr marti@unisi.it
www.poplarshoe.com marti.patrizia@gmail.com
facebook.com/mogusrl facebook.com/neffa.nl
www.quietude.it
linkedin.com/company/mycoplast instagram.com/neffa_nl/ instagram.com/poplarshoe
twitter.com/MOGU_Italy twitter.com/neffa_nl twitter.com/PoplarShoe

Leather processed sample cells © Mogu © Aniela Hoitink | NEFFA © PoplarShoe / M.Erkam Narinç © Quietude Core Team

MOGU Leather looks at a future where animals MOGU technology involves growing and There are 7 billion people on this planet that all Our shorter supply chain eliminates the need A smart shoe made of bio-waste material your well-being. PoplarShoe reforms footwear Quietude (www.quietude.it) is a collection of facebook.com/scfablab.unisiena
are not killed for human materials’ desires. It is to utilising specifically selected fungal strains and need to be clothed. Many of us enjoy fashion and for chemicals and pesticides. We reduce water Integrates you and nature into a unique activity. for a daily use, and combines many disciplines. interactive jewels that enhance the experience of (Santa Chiara Fab Lab – University of Siena)
be looked at as an alternative to traditional animal proprietary growing methods and techniques, trends, but the clothes that we get rid of are a big usage by 99.5% and local production is reducing Unique features of Poplar fibres, nanotechnology, sound of deaf women. They detect sounds and
leather, grown by fungi; a new natural material with for converting nutrient-rich substrates into 100% problem. For MycoTEX we went to the root of transport. We only grow what we need and have Poplar /ˈpɒp.lər/ fibre is a natural material, which design, art, and electronics all are harmonized in translate them into vibrations, light and shape facebook.com/glitchfactorysrl
comparable experiential/tactile qualities to the natural, renewable materials, that are both cost- the problem. no textile waste during the production phase. And is obtained from populus genus trees. During the integrity to offer you best. PoplarShoe will offer changes. The jewelry collection is completed by (Glitch Factory)
ones of animal leather, though highly different. competitive and performance-competitive, when AFTER wearing, you can simply bury your garment middle of May, poplar fibres, which are creamy- you to interact with walking, running, jogging like an App for smartphone allowing personalisation
compared to existing solutions currently available MycoTEX creates sustainable fabric from in the ground and it will naturally decompose. white, lustrous and lightweight fall from trees and no other way and the PoplarShoe app is your of both input and output, and the construction facebook.com/T4AllSrL
As opposed to traditional animal leather, in the market. mycelium, the roots of mushrooms. With our cover ground just like snow. Poplar fibres offer guidance all along the way. of a personal library of sounds that can be (T4All)
MOGU Leather can be grown in rather short BB-modelling process we create garments of this very unique properties but currently they do not monitored for, and replayed on demand through
timeframes, with a limited amount of resources new textile that perfectly fit your body without have any usage area in industry due to their length. the jewels. The project has been developed in
and its production process is not wasteful, the need to cut and sew! And by implementing Each year tons of poplar fibres are just wasted co-design sessions with deaf women to enable
hence promising to bring about a great material electronic components we will be able to develop but here our team proposes, to use these fibres the development of accessories that respond to
revolution, leading towards the establishment of biodegradable FashionTech. to make flexible pressure sensors to be used in a the emergent discoveries and desires. Quietude
a more ethically and environmentally responsible fashionable smart shoe. Concept of PoplaShoe is has been designed and developed by a team
fashion industry, not only in regard to finished based on core values of Sustainability, Innovation composed by Santa Chiara Lab- University of Siena
products but particularly affecting all steps of the and Technology. How about giving ear to the (coordinator), Glitch Factory and T4All. Siena Art
production process and manufacturing. peaceful call of nature? Put on your PoplarShoe Institute and University of Southern Denmark
and feel the breeze. Bring daily improvement to collaborated as service providers.

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RIDEQ * SARA + SARAH SENSEWEAR * SHELTERSUIT

Alessia Moltani
The first available product controls the heads Emanuela Corti Jurrie Barkel,
position since one of the most common problem Ivan Parati Treasurer
for riders are that they look down on their hands
or the horse, instead of keeping the head upright, potential of the light emitting fabric to cut down +39 039830197 +31-6-22526655
looking ahead. The heads position will affect the on the need for large, heavy set designs, the hello@sensewear.clothing Jurrie@sheltersuit.com
balance of the whole body and by correcting it, printing of fabrics which cannot necessarily www.sensewear.clothing www.sheltersuit.com
the rider will be in better balance, have clearer be re-used.
communication with the horse and lessen the risk facebook.com/sensewear.clothing facbook.com/sheltersuitfoundation
of strain injuries on both. We needed to go back to the loom, back to instagram.com/sensewear.clothing instagram.com/sheltersuit
the materials, back to electronic and lighting twitter.com/sensewear1 linkedin.com/company/sheltersuit-
It is accompanied by an app where you personalize technology and develop options for a more foundation
your settings depending on preference and flexible and creative design system, and to build twitter.com/sheltersuit
experience as a rider. The whole range between infrastructure for our collaborators and potential Photo credit: Alessandro Froio © Reuters Press Agency
novice and expert can use the product due to stakeholders to explore the potential that large
this feature. scale responsive cloth has to create new display,
projection, and visual effects for backdrops, set
This system could also be used for other purposes designs and immersive experiences. Sensewear is an inclusive collection of smart release tactile charm that monitor wearer use The Sheltersuit foundation is a non-profit of hypothermia is reached. First stage hypothermia
like sports, rehabilitation or ergonomic working garments inspired by therapies applied to Sensory and facilitate communication between therapist organization, that started in 2014. It produces allows the user to react and call for help. Now
positioning. Processing Disorders within the autistic spectrum. and patient. The new prototypes are being tested water-and windproof jackets with detachable picture you were that person, and you needed to
Sara Robertson and Sarah Taylor Anxiety, stress, panic attack are most typical in a dedicated facility to create solid scientific sleeping bags, specifically for homeless people. make that call. At the highest emergency level,
© RideQ team Photo: Margot Watson Creative Directors autism’s symptoms but more and more people bases to the next development of sensewear that The suits are produced in a workshop in The the battery of your phone is dead. The aim of the
Annika Ridington suffers them, therefore the collection is not will see the elaboration of an algorithm that will Netherlands, by Syrian and Eritrean refugees: project will be to develop a novel Urban Safety
Elisabeth Carlund Sara Robertson: 07793824562 addressed only to people with disabilities but it is understand stress level from life signals. Kit, focusing on preventing hypothermia and on
Sarah Taylor: 07801558861 aiming at enhancing everyone busy urban life. The Highly skilled craftsmen that find a new purpose connectivity, to be integrated into a modular
RideQ has developed an innovative system of LIT – Light Emitting Lace for Performance. saraandsarah@smarttextile.design collection initially included biteable necklace, an in working on the Sheltersuits. The foundation system that will be implemented in Sheltersuits.
info@rideq.se
wearables that assist the horseback rider in www.smarttextile.design aromatic scarf, an inflatable jacket, a stretchable uses excess materials, pre-consumer, to make its Together with professionals from University of
www.rideq.se
developing their “vertical seat” (body position in Our vision has been to explore the inherent, network.wearsustain.eu/actors/ scarf and a musical poncho. Sensewear won several protective suits. Twente and Saxion University of Applied Sciences,
the saddle for non riders). By receiving feedback programmable potential of newly developed AWGkdlVV5CMOeXhOH_wq international competitions and founds received an Urban Safety Kit will be developed that will
facebook.com/rideqab
on specific points when you fall outside your own light-emitting lace and to creatively exploit through the European Commission gave chance to The idea behind the Sheltersuit is to keep extend the functionality of the Sheltersuit.
preferenced framework, you intuitively correct light within and on cloth within a performance instagram.com/smarttextiledesign develop a new series of functioning prototypes: a people warm, in order to protect them from
your position while riding. Because you do not environment. The key aims have been to explore twitter.com/saraplussarah smart t-shirt that collect vital data and send signals life-endangering situations caused by extreme
have to interpret the instructions, you can keep the programmable potential of the cloth for to an application that can activate other garments cold and rain. Security of the body is a next step
your focus on the task at hand, controlling sustainability. Our team could see a critical of the collection, an inflatable jumper delivering in the desire to protect people. Imagine that
the horse. need and opportunity to use the programmable Deep Pressure therapy to the wearer and a stress temperatures are dropping to a level that a state

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 hese highlighted teams scored highest against our monitoring criteria
successfully throughout the duration of their project. successfully throughout the duration of their project. 33
SMART FASHION PRODUCTION SOLEMAKER * STEALTHY STUDIO HILO *

We identified three major ‘design variables’ that


will help bringing the technology from a ‘proof of Erwin Hoogerwoord, The HILO machine is a compact spinning
concept’ into a ‘system prototype demonstration’: Director machine which can be installed in any textile
Within 1) manufacturing technique we are going workshop. It allows professionals and enthusiasts
to extend the micromoulding machine thus it 0031622918432 alike personalized, local and on-demand yarn
can automatically join separate pattern parts erwin@solemaker.io Nadiya Siddique production.
to digitally create smart garments. 2) Material www.solemaker.io CEO Founder
research will be done to collect and construct The HILO machine is controlled by the user-
new fabrics that are sustainable, fashionable and twitter.com/solemaker_io +447825665830 friendly HILO software. It allows users to translate
suitable for our process. This includes e-textiles. nadiyaksiddique@gmail.com digital patterns (such as an image) into different
Consumer desire depends on how it looks. Our www.stealthywoman.com yarn properties which results in customized yarn
technology and material, requires a totally new with unique tactile and aesthetic qualities.
3) design language and pattern handling. We will
© Smart Fashion Production design cutting edge couture to stimulate market-pull. © Solemaker Erwin Hoogerwoord Photo: Peta Bush The Studio HILO project extends beyond the
machine and software and aims towards building
Consumers will appreciate fashion that is made an active community of users. By making the
locally, more sustainable and under ethical blueprints and source-code freely available online,
A digital, local, made-to-measure garment conditions. In the future, garments will be tailor- Solemaker BV is a project that enables designers to Vitamin D deficiency is a global silent epidemic, facilitate healthy conscious behaviours by we invite users and maker to build their own HILO
manufacturing technology. made, more comfortable and valuable, while create Ultra-Persoanlized, digitally manufactured the associated health problems include encouraging women to go outdoors in optimal machine, code with us and share their experiences,
the digital manufacturing approach will make shoes. Users are able to come to our website, osteoporosis, depression, child birth defects, sun conditions and ingest Vitamin D from improvements or customizations with the HILO
Smart textiles have developed over the last couple it economically feasible to produce local for a www.solemaker.io, where they generate a shoe cancer and multiple sclerosis. natural sunlight. community.
of years. But the manufacturing into garments is competitive price. to there own shape and pressure profile. While
still done in an old fashioned way, mainly based SoleMaker BV was based on our previous research, Una by Stealthy is the first modular UV sensor Stealthy is the brainchild of Nadiya Siddique –
on sewing techniques. It is done at the other side Wear Sustain allowed us to bring new designers enabled jewellery collection designed to tackle In 2015, Nadiya lost her academic scholarship Sara Diaz Rodriguez,
of the globe. With ethical and environmental Bas Froon, into the Solemaker platform, test our 3D printed Vitamin D deficiency in women. “Una” is the first and place to study a Masters in Fashion having CEO
concerns. We don’t understand how we can we Designer & Technology shoes to ensure their lifetime of wearability, and collection developed under the Stealthy brand, sustained two broken ankles during a hiking
can call ‘smart fashion’ ‘smart’, if the production isn’t. develop an effective business plan. Moreover, we and is designed with inclusivity, modularity and accident later discovering she was critically © Sara Diaz Rodriguez +49 179 7409141
+31653504235 developed a new algorithmic backend that has sustainability in mind – the stealthy woman can Vitamin D deficient. In 2017, Stealthy was born sara@studiohilo.com
In this project we further develop our ‘smart contact@basfroon.nl more capability, is more reliable and leverages wear Una in a bracelet, necklace or modestly as a after months of research and Nadiya’s passion to www.studiohilo.com
fashion production’ concept together with a www.basfroon.nl/projects/wearsustain breaking edge web technologies to make a great hijab pin! Our goal is to unite women in the quest create an innovative product to bring Vitamin D
new design language. Smart textiles will play an www.karinvlug.com/smart-fashion-production user experience. for better health and wellbeing. The “Una” coupled deficiency awareness to women globally. facebook.com/studiohilo
important role because they operate at the cutting with the Stealthy Woman lifestyle app is designed instagram.com/studio_hilo
edge of the market. Our approach will enable to instagram.com/basfroon to raise awareness of Vitamin D deficiency and
produce these smart textiles digitally into made- instagram.com/karinvlug
to-measure smart fashion.

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34 successfully throughout the duration of their project. successfully throughout the duration of their project. 35
TEXTILE REFLEXES * TINKER DESIGN TOUCH CRAFT * WEARABLE ENERGY – TEXTILE BATTERIES

POWER
PATTERNS

Tinker adapts the combination of design, Lucie Hernandez,


technology and sensory touch conveying Electronic Textile Designer battery as an asset rather than a necessary evil
experiences beneficial for health, elates comfort and Project Coordinator we can make batteries beautiful and wearable.
and stimulates emotion. Athena a new form of
shoe therapy for feeling good, an experience 07930 442254 This approach will function as an enabler
designed to appeal to the human senses. lucie@touchcraft.org.uk technology for the next generation of Smart
www.touchcraft.org.uk Textiles, so that the existing product prototypes
The project evolved from collaboration with e.g. for assisted living can finally enter the market
University College London (UCL) and London instagram.com/touchcrafttextiles to enhance everyone’s life.
Photo credit: Hellen van Rees College of Fashion, MA Fashion Entrepreneurship © Rachael Allain © Diffus Design
& Innovation. Tinker Design was supported by
the Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE), London Vadim.Tenner, Co-Founder
College of Fashion and Cambridge University - Hanne-Louise Johannesen,Co-Founder
Textile Reflexes is a project where shape changing Hellen van Rees, Judge Business School. Touch Craft is a not-for-profit organisation that Touch Craft have experience in facilitating The goal of this project is to develop a new way Michel Guglielmi, Co-Founder
sustainable textiles are developed to give feedback Fashion & textile designer / owner explores methods of embedding stories into creative workshops to explore methods of of battery integration into wearable smart textiles.
to users and applied in coaching situations. The The project developed with Wearsustain a Horizon textiles as a way to engage different audiences and combining textiles and technology. We work with The idea is to create visually appealing battery +49 241 80 23451
first working prototype of this project is a posture +31649398205 2020 project adapts principles of a circular design contribute towards social cohesion and wellbeing. local groups, engaging participants in creative patterns right onto fabrics where everyone Vadim.Tenner@RWTH-Aachen.de
correction coach. The vest can be worn over hellenvanrees@gmail.com Photo: Thushara Sabreen methodology with a modular design approach in making activities to provide a sense of purpose can see them. Designing the battery patterns www.power-pattern.com
regular garments and it measures when the user www.hellenvanrees.com consideration of e-waste attempting to address Using electronic textiles techniques or E-textiles, and motivation. Direct involvement in creative in an aesthetical way creates completely new
has an incorrect posture. It then pulls the flexible sustainable and ethical issues faced today. gives us the ability to embed electronics and activities gives people a platform to tailor and possibilities for smart wearable applications. The +45 6126 7062
panel of squares at the back to subtly remind the facebook.com/hellen.vanrees digital capability as component parts of soft, personalise the objects they develop, building in idea of this project is to take advantage of the hanne-louise@diffus.dk
user to sit back upright. instagram.com/hellenvanrees Tinker Design uses technology to delight, familiar surfaces. We have designed and developed their voice and stories. We work with participants development within printed batteries on foil and
twitter.com/hellenvanrees empower and enrich our everyday wellness. Thushara Sabreen, a range of sensory, responsive objects from rugs, to implement soft circuits and electronic transfer the technique to textile. One advantage +45 60831920
Textile Reflexes is a multidisciplinary collaboration Founder / Creative Director / CEO blankets and pillows that have been embroidered components to bring the objects to life, making of this approach is that fabrics provide a huge michel@diffus.dk
between the following team members: twitter.com/gekeludden Athena is a smart interactive massage shoe for a and enhanced with electronics and sensor them responsive and personally meaningful. surface which can be used for functionalization.
instagram.com/gekeludden customised massage on your feet on the move. +44 7943952551 technology. The objects are able to produce This means that a relatively big amount of energy
Hellen van Rees – Textile & fashion designer The shoe embodies the resurgence of artisan craft thushara@tinker-design.com sound, light or vibro-tactile effects as a response can be stored in printed batteries. By aiming at
Angelika Mader – Creative technologist University wwwhome.ewi.utwente.nl/~mader/ with a fusion of technology. Entwining the past www.tinker-design.com to touch. decoration and wearability we do not need to
of Twente with the present is a concept explored where an think about the problems that might occur when
Geke Ludden – Interaction designer University “invisible heritage” of intangible tradition skills is minimizing the battery area. By looking at the
of Twente not behind us (recognised by UNESCO as in need
of protection) but entwined with contemporaneity.

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successfully throughout the duration of their project. successfully throughout the duration of their project. 37
WISP ZISHI, SMART GARMENT FOR REHABILITATION

Wan Tseng,
Founder / CEO

+44 7857 796080 Dr. Qi Wang


info@wisp.me.uk​ Designer
wan-ting.tseng@network.rca.ac.uk
www.wisp.me.uk +31 40-247 5228
q.wang@tue.nl
facebook.com/wisp.me.uk
instagram.com/sens_uk
instagram.com/wisp.me
twitter.com/wisp_me
© Wisp

Shifting societal views of pleasure, WISP creates Choose a modular sphere in the morning and set Zishi is a garment designed to support posture
connections and opens minds to sensual intimacy. an intention as you twist it into place. Allow the monitoring for the purposes of rehabilitation
We feel a glass wall needs to be shattered, the jewelry to stimulate your senses throughout the training. It has been designed with attention to
one separating women from men when it comes day, to relax, awaken or center yourself on presenting accurate and informative feedback
to what’s ‘acceptable’ for expressing and enjoying your intention. to patients regarding their thoracic and shoulder
sexuality and physical pleasure. WISP not only posture as well as comfort, ease of use, wearability
starts the conversation, we follow it up with Glass spheres hold the perfume while WISP and aesthetics. Zishi can be useful during
innovation and design. Alongside the sex-tech patent-pending mechanisms release the scent rehabilitation training for a variety of patient
industry, we create the SENS-tech (Sensual with a special touch. groups. So far, we have been concerned with
Tech) industry to encourage the exploration, two broad training scenarios a) for arm-hand
experimentation and expression with a renewed (neurological) rehabilitation training after stroke
sexual sensibility. or for MS and spinal cord injury patients. B) for
shoulder patients. Zishi consists of a garment
Designed in London, WISP’s first collection: the integrated with smart textiles and wearable
SENS sensory jewellery line brings high-fashion electronics. It presents real-time feedback as a
and technology together again to stimulate your vibration delivered through the garment, visual
senses through interchangeable sensory inserts and audio instructions through android-hand held
featuring delicate scents, textures and movement. device (smartphone or tablet).

38 39
SUPPORTING ORGANISATIONS
The following organisations have provided WEAR Digital Catapult Maker Faire Vienna
Sustain with invaluable support during the last two
years. We would like to thank everyone here very ENSAD Lab Makers of Barcelona
much for your support and we look forward to e-stitches Mikser Festival Belgrade
continuing to work with you beyond the end
of the project. FABelgrade MILANO DIGITAL WEEK
Fab Lab Zagreb Natlab
Aarhus University
H&M Heritage and Museums PrimeIT
Ars Electronica
Hellenic Clothing Industry Association - Smart Fab Lab
B&M Theocharakis Foundation
Textiles and Clothing Design Lab
for the Fine Arts and Music SMARTlab
HELGRAMED - Hellenic Union of Graphic
Baltan Laboratories Studio Komplekt
Arts and Media Technology Engineers
Barcelona FabLab Textilburg
IDEGUI - Instituto de Design de Guimarães
BASE Milano TRIENNALE DI MILANO
INOVA+
Creative Ring Wearable Tehchnology Show
KOBAKANT
Design Lab Twente Women of Wearables
MAD Brussels

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