Hart Cacao 1892

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HDI
HW 2NOG 7
1
Bot 7108.92KE35255
Harvard College Library

AE
MI
M
E
LLU
AD
IGI
AC
.NO
INV
GIFT OF
LUTHER S. LIVINGSTON
No. 2. - FORASTERO .
YELLOW .
2 3 6 inches
No. 1.- CRIOLLO .

YELLOW .
o 2 3 4 5토 Inches
NK PHOTO - SRRAGUE CY LONDON
o
" CACAO ."
TREATISE ON THE CULTIVATION AND CURING OF “ CACAO "

( Theobroma Cacao ) ;
BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE OF THE SAME, AND
HINTS ON THE SELECTION AND MANAGEMENT
OF ESTATES.
BY
JO HINCHLEY HART , F.L.S.,

SUPT. BOTANICAL DEPARTMENT, TRINIDAD .
“QUI NON PROFICIT DEFICIT ."
PRICE : -- FIVE SHILLINQS .
TRINIDAD :
PRINTED AT THE GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, PORT-OF -SPAIN ,

1892,
Bog10892
KE35255

Nov. 10 , 1914
Gift of
Luther S. Livingston ,
of Cambridge
IIS
Fo
e has
unding
de Col
He pros
lands,
upport
rt of
eparto
DEDICATED
TO
[S EXCELLENCY SIR WILLIAM ROBINSON, K.C.M.G. ,

GOVERNOR .
For the purpose of placing on record the unfailing support which

has invariably given to projects connected with Botanical Science
ding to the advancement and progress of the Botanical services of
Colony, as a mark of esteem for his untiring efforts to advance
prosperity of the Agri-Horticultural Industries of the West Indian
inds, and finally, as a testimony of my appreciation of the generous
port which he has personally extended to me during the greater
it of five years official life, in carrying on the laborious work of my
partment.
J. H. HART, F.L.S.
!
HR
Part I. - CULTURE .
IP. 1. -SELECTION OF LAND, & c .

II . - SELECTION OF SEED - NURSERIES
III. - PLANTING AND SHADING .
IV . - MANURING AND PRUNING .
V. - ROADS AND DRAINING - TEMPERATURE AND RAINFALL.
Part II. - PREPARATION FOR MARKET .
AP . VI . - PICKING AND HARVESTING .

VII . - FERMENTATION , CURING, & c .
VIII . - WASHING , DRYING, POLISHING .
Part III. - SCIENTIFIC and MISCELLANEOUS

AP . IX . - BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE, DESCRIPTION OF TYPICAL FORMS.
X. - DISEASES, &c.
XI. --EXPORT, VALUE OF ESTATES, BUILDINGS, LABOUR.
XH . - CHEMICAL COMPOSITION, MANUFACTURE OF CHOCOLATE.
INDEX .
CHAPTER I. PAE
SELECTION OF LAND.-- Suitable soils - Aspect_Worn out lands - Tidal lands

unsuitable - Shelter belts of Timber - Forest growth a guide in selecting
land - How to proceed in choosing a property - An ideal spot for Cacao
growing - Elevation above sea-level Mean AnnualTemperature - Chemical
Analysis of soils
CHAPTER II .
NURSERIES. - Cacao always raised from seed - Preservation and transit of ripe
seeds — Method of transporting - Seeds for Nurseries, how to select for
improving varieties — The Hon'ble Dr. de Verteuil on this point - A bad
arrangement for a Nursery and a good one - Raising plants in boxes - Coco
nut refuse - Transplanting— Tap -root - Injuryto roots — Trimming wounds
Water supply -- Manure not generally required - Leaf mould
CHAPTER III.
PLANTING AND SHADING .-- Preparation of land by Contract - Quarreé as Spanish

measure - Planting from Nursery, and planting at stake - Use of bamboo
joints for plants - How to sow seed at stake - Transplanting to field— Treat
ment of plants before planting - Advice not to plant in wet weather - Dis
tance apart to plant- Grenada planting - Choice of wide or close planting
depends on character of soil - Supply of vacancies - Planting by Contract
Crops grown by Contractor - Ordinance to regulate Contracts - Sum paid
per tree to Contractor - Disadvantages of Contract work — Dishonest Con
tractors -- Intermediate crops onnewland — Shade- Grenada grows without
shade --Trinidad uses shade - The reason discussed -- Name of shade trees
“ Bois Immortel”—Mr. Morris and Castilloa – Para rubber-Terminalia or
“ myrabolans”-Distance to plant shade trees – Smaller or primary shade
plants — Value of Banana - Weedingand “ cutlassing ?-Stem of treesnot
to be covered by cut weeds ...
CHAPTER IV .
MANURING AND PRUNING . – Description of tree good health --Such trees do

not require manure-Application of manures - Farm yard manure safe to
use - Chemical manures sometimes dangerous in their application - Method
of application with surface and with deeprooting plants — NATURE's method
of applying manure - Culture of trees differentto culture of cereal crops
We cannot command NATURE,only assist her - Hints on culture-- The
application of artificial manure - The use of lime-Plants do not take all their
food by the roots - Necessityof maintaining a proper stateof healthamong
the leaves - Pruning - Its effect — How to perform it - How to balance a
tree - Bearing branches sometimes need cutting out- Useless wood to be
cut out- Care against making ragged cut— “ Gormandizers ” —How to make
use of them at times - Wounds by saw to be cleaned with knife --All pruning
instrumentsto have a keen edge - Time for pruning - Influenceof the Moon
Trees should be pruned annually — Pruning makes wounds - All prunings to
be burnt - Manual dexterity in use of knife cannot be taught by writing 14
Maxims for the cultivator
vii .
CHAPTER V. PAGE.
ROADS. AND DRAINING. –Necessity for roads - How to make them - Economy
of having a proper system - General principles only can be laid down - Why
drainage is required - Form of drains- Best direction for drains - Natural
outlet for drainage waters should be secured - Subsoil drainage practically
impossible – Theory good but practice unsound when referring to Trinidad
Temperature - Humidity a most important factor --Value of hygrometrical
observations - Continued drought fatal to the Cacao tree - RAINFALL - Coun
tries with same rainfall may not possess same humidity --Comparison with
other countries - Planter must depend upon humidity more than rainfall
and temperature - Difference of humidity at increased elevation above
sea -level 22-26
CHAPTER VI .
PICKING CROP.-- Cacao Hook--Instructions for harvesting crop - Importance of

cutting ripe pods only - Skilled workmen only to be employed - Different
treatment required by different varieties -- Separation when shelling or
“ breaking” of ripe from unripe produce-Rate of wages for picking
SHELLING OR BREAKING - How breaking is performed - Breaking seldom
well done in Trinidad - Ceylon planters do better -- Some planters alive to
the point-Uphill work of reform in methods practised- Central Factories
Pessimist views - Obtaining a name — Where Ceylon shows to advantage
Cost of “ breaking ” 27-29
CHAPTER VII .
FERMENTATION. -Prizes for Essays given by Trinidad Government--Essays
reprinted in Appendix - The necessity for the operation – The change that
is brought about — What causes the change-Criticism on Essays --- Cacao
analysis Professor McCarthy's analysis - An experiment in Fermentation
and its results - Comparative weight of waste and weight of kernel - Why
dissimilar methods produce similar results— " Stewed in their own juice ”
rather ancient-Practice of Venezuelan planter described by Sir William
Robinson-Malting considered - Destruction of vitality - An important
principle of Fermentation - More scientific knowledge required - Aublet's
description of Fermentation dated 1775--Translation-Degree of heat
required - Probable action of diastase - Probable difference between fer
mented and unfermented Cacao - Colour of the bean when fermented - Tem
perature experiments much required - Ordinary practice by uneducated
produces good samples, but a higher standard of methods considered desir
able 30-40
CHAPTER VIII .
WASHING.- Ceylon methods- Advice of London brokers - Mr. Morris' opinion

1 on the variety grown in Ceylon - Dr. Trimen on same-Change of character
2 apparent- How Cacao is dried in Trinidad - Description of house required
t Length of time for drying-Prizes for apparatus for artificial drying - Des
cription of Ceylon drying house-Cacao requires slow drying -- Colouring-
Red earth-Venezuelan practice as translated by Sir William Robinson
Description of San Antonio earth by Mr. Bowrey- “ Dancing” —Mildew
Hand rubbing - Mr. Morris' description of a well cured bean - How plump
appearance is said to be secured 41-46
CHAPTER IX .
BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE. - Mexican name - Various species of Cacao - Mr.
Morris' classification - Our own classification of varieties — Criollo - Forastero
-Calabacillo - Criollo, the finest Cacao ---Dr. Trimen's interpretation of the
word Criollo - Proper interpretation - Origin of the names -- Dr. de Verteuil
on the Cacaoof Trinidad - Epidemic ofdisease amongst Trinidad Cacao, 1727.
Re-introduction – Typical forms of beans with illustrations- Discussion on
value of the varieties — Comparative remarks - Trinidad Plantations of a
mixed character-Caused by Contract system --Forms of leaf - Reference to
cultivation in Jamaica and the word " Plast” -Doubts expressed whether
any species produce commercial Cacao but Theobroma Cacao-- Theobroma
Bicolor- “Wariba" " Wari ” or wild hog - Reference to illustrations of Theo
broma Guyanensis and Theobroma Sylvestris 47–55
...
11
1
Bot 7108.92KE 35255

HRISTO
GIFT OF
LUTHER S. LIVINGSTON
‫‪۱‬‬
‫‪،۲‬به‬ ‫(‪.‬ا‪:‬و‬
‫ا‬ ‫ا‬ ‫ل‬‫دازکیاابا‪،‬بنههوته‬
‫ر‬
‫هاارن‬
‫والبهرياته‬
‫اادلبجخا‬
‫همراه‬
‫دی‬
No. 2.- FORASTERO .
YELLOW .
RATISE
BOTANY
HIN
? 3 4 5 6 inches
No. 1. - CRIOLLO .
YELLOW.
2 3 4 &투 Inches
" CACAO ."
TREATISE ON THE CULTIVATION AND CURING OF “ CACAO "

( Theobroma Cacao ) ;
BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE OF THE SAME, AND
HINTS ON THE SELECTION AND MANAGEMENT
OF ESTATES.
BY
Jonก HINCHLEY HART , F.L.S.,

SUPT. BOTANICAL DEPARTMENT, TRINIDAD .
“QUI NON PROFICIT DEFICIT.”
PRICE : -- FIVE SHILLINQS .
TRINIDAD :
PRINTED AT THE GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, PORT -OF -SPAIN ,

1892,
Bot10892
KE35-255

Nov. 10 , 1914
Gift of
Luther S. Livingston ,
of Cambridge
DEDICATED
TO
IIS EXCELLENCY SIR WILLIAM ROBINSON , K.C.M.G.,

GOVERNOR .
For the purpose of placing on record the unfailing support which

has invariably given to projects connected with Botanical Science
ading to the advancement and progress of the Botanical services of
e Colony, as a mark of esteem for his untiring efforts to advance
e prosperity of the Agri-Horticultural Industries of the West Indian
ands, and finally, as a testimony of my appreciation of the generous
pport which he has personally extended to me during the greater
rt of five years nfficial life, in carrying on the laborious work of my
partment.
J. H. HART, F.L.S.
Part I. - CULTURE.
( AP . 1. - SELECTION OF LAND, & c .

II . - SELECTION OF SEED - NURSERIES
III. - PLANTING AND SHADING .
IV . - MANURING AND PRUNING .
V. - ROADS AND DRAINING - TEMPERATURE AND RAINFALL.
Part II . - PREPARATION FOR MARKET.
AP. VI. - PICKING AND HARVESTING .

VII. - FERMENTATION , CURING , &c.
VIII . - WASHING , DRYING , POLISHING .
Part III. - SCIENTIFIC and MISCELLANEOUS

AP . IX . - BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE, DESCRIPTION OF TYPICAL FORMS .
X. - DISEASES, &c.
XI. - EXPORT, VALUE OF ESTATES, BUILDINGS, LABOUR .
XH . - CHEMICAL COMPOSITION , MANUFACTURE OF CHOCOLATE .
INDEX .
CHAPTER I. Pad
SELECTION OF LAND . - Suitable soils — Aspect_Worn out lands - Tidal lands

unsuitable-Shelter belts of Timber- Forest growth a guide in selecting
land - How to proceed in choosing a property - An ideal spot for Cacao
growing - Elevation above sea-level - MeanAnnual Temperature - Chemical 1
Analysis of soils
CHAPTER II .
NURSERIES. - Cacao always raised from seed - Preservation and transit of ripe
seeds — Method of transporting - Seeds for Nurseries, how to select for
improving varieties-- The Hon'ble Dr. de Verteuil on this point - A bad
arrangement for a Nursery and a good one- -Raising plants in boxes - Coco
nut refuse - Transplanting - Tap-root - Injury to roots — Trimming wounds
Water supply - Manure not generally required-Leaf mould
1
CHAPTER III.
PLANTING AND SHADING.-- Preparation of land by Contract - Quarreé as Spanish

measure- Planting from Nursery, and planting at stake - Use of bamboo
joints for plants - How tosowseedatstake - Transplantingto field— Treat
ment of plants before planting-Advice not to plant in wet weather - Dis
tance apart to plant - Grenada planting - Choice of wide or close planting
depends on character of soil - Supply of vacancies — Planting by Contract
Crops grown by Contractor - Ordinance toregulate Contracts - Sum paid
per tree to Contractor - Disadvantages of Contract work-Dishonest Con
tractors—Intermediate crops on new land - Shade - Grenada grows without
shade--Trinidad uses shade-The reason discussed --Name of shade trees
“ Bois Immortel”—Mr. Morris and Castilloa – Para rubber -- Terminalia or
“ myrabolans” -Distance to plant shade trees - Smaller or primary shade
plants — Value of Banana - Weeding and “ cutlassing”-Stem of trees not
to be covered by cut weeds
CHAPTER IV .
MANURING AND PRUNING . – Description of tree in good health --Such trees do

not require manure - Application of manures - Farm yard manure safe to
use - Chemical manures sometimes dangerous in their application — Method
of application with surface and with deeprooting plants - Nature's method
of applying manure - Culture of trees differentto culture of cereal crops-
We cannot command NATURE, only assist her - Hints on culture-- The
application of artificial manure - The use of lime - Plants do not take all their
food by the roots - Necessityof maintaining a proper stateof healthamong
the leaves - Pruning - Its effect - How to perform it—How to balance a
tree - Bearing branches sometimes need cutting out-Useless wood to be
cut out -- Care against making ragged cut— " Gormandizers” —How to make
use of them at times — Wounds by saw to be cleaned with knife--All pruning
instruments to have a keen edge - Time for pruning -- Influence of the Moon
Trees should be pruned annually - Pruning makes wounds-- All prunings to
be burnt - Manual dexterity in use of knife cannot be taught by writing
Maxims for the cultivator 14 .
vii .
CHAPTER V. PAGE.
LOADS AND DRAINING. -Necessity for roads—How to make them - Economy

of having a proper system - General principles only can be laid down - Why
drainage is required-Form of drains- Best direction for drains -- Natural
outlet for drainage waters should be secured - Subsoil drainage practically
impossible — Theory good but practice unsound when referring to Īrinidad
Temperature - Humidity a most important factor - Value of hygrometrical
observations -- Continued drought fatal to the Cacao tree- RAINFALL -- Coun
tries with same rainfall may not possess same humidity --Comparison with
other countries — Planter must depend upon humidity more than rainfall
and temperature - Difference of humidity at increased elevation above
sea-level 09 . 22-26
CHAPTER VI .
PICKING CROP.-- Cacao Hook -- Instructions for harvesting crop - Importance of

cutting ripe pods only - Skilled workmen only to be employed -- Different
treatment required by different varieties--Separation when shelling or
breaking of ripe from unripe produce— Rate of wages for picking
SHELLING OR BREAKING - How breaking is performed - Breaking seldom
well done in Trinidad - Ceylon planters do better - Some planters alive to
the point - Uphill work of reform in methods practised - Central Factories-
Pessimist views - Obtaining a name — Where Ceylon shows to advantage
Cost of “ breaking ” 27-29
CHAPTER VII .
FERMENTATION . - Prizes for Essays given by Trinidad Government-- Essays
reprinted in Appendix - The necessity for the operation--The change that
is brought about–What causes the change--Criticism on Essays --Cacao
analysis — Professor McCarthy's analysis-An experiment in Fermentation
and its results - Comparative weight of waste and weight of kernel - Why
dissimilar methods produce similar results— “ Stewed in their own juice "
rather ancient- Practice of Venezuelan planter described by Sir William
Robinson - Malting considered - Destruction of vitality - An important
principle of Fermentation - More scientific knowledge required - Aublet's
description of Fermentation dated 1775 — Translation - Degree of heat
required -- Probable action of diastase - Probable difference between fer
mented and unfermented Cacao-Colour of the bean when fermented - Tem
perature experiments much required-Ordinary practice by uneducated
produces good samples, but a higher standard of methods considered desir
able 30-40
CHAPTER VIII ,
WASHING . - Ceylon methods- Advice of London brokers - Mr. Morris' opinion

on the variety grown in Ceylon -- Dr. Trimen on same- Change of character
apparent — How Cacao is dried in Trinidad - Description of house required
Length of time for drying - Prizes for apparatus for artificial drying - Des
cripti of Ceylon drying house - Cacao requires slow drying --- Colouring-
Red earth - Venezuelan practice as translated by Sir William Robinson
Description of San Antonio earth by Mr. Bowrey- “ Dancing” -Mildew
Hand rubbing—Mr . Morris' description of a well cured bean - How plump
appearance issaid to be secured ...
41-46
CHAPTER IX .
BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE. —Mexican name—Various species of Cacao - Mr.
Morris' classification - Our own classification of varieties - Criollo - Forastero
-Calabacillo - Criollo, the finest Cacao--- Dr. Trimen's interpretation of the
word Criollo - Proper interpretation ---Origin of the names - Dr. de Verteuil
on the Cacaoof Trinidad - Epidemic of disease amongstTrinidad Cacao, 1727.
Re-introduction - Typical forms of beans with illustrations -- Discussion on
value of the varieties - Comparative remarks — Trinidad Plantations of a
mixed character - Caused by Contract system - Forms of leaf - Reference to
cultivation in Jamaica and the word " blasť " -Doubts expressed whether
any species produce commercial Cacao but Theobroma Cacao-- Theobroma
Bicolor = " Waribae " " Wari” or wild hog - Reference to illustrations of Theo
broma Guyanensis and Theobroma Sylvestris ...
47–55
viii .
CHAPTER X. P.
DISEASES, & C. - Diseases few- Most common- Black rot-Dr. de Verteuil's

description - Re-introduction or introduction of a strong variety, 1757–
Parasol Ant - Cacao beetle-Means of destroying same - Ordinance enabling
Governor to declare districts infected - The Asphyxiator - Belt's opinion
Aphides -- Wood ants --Vegetable parasites, Loranthus, Dodder - Epiphytes
66
Orchids” -Squirrel -- " Manicou Gros Yeux"
CHAPTER XI .
EXPORT, &c. -Export of Cacao-Customs returns — Value — Price of Crown Lands

-Estates on the market - Best course for investors - Yield the best of value
of Estates-Mr. Morris on the bearing of trees-Yield per tree -- Yield and
value per acre - Working expenses — Buildings required-Proprietor should
be resident- Cost of curing-houses, store- rooms and offices- Labour
Skilled vs. unskilled-Price of labour 61
CHAPTER XII .
CHEMICAL COMPOSITION, & c .-- Chemical composition of the bean - Table of

comparative analyses-- Results not flattering to chemical science - Active
principle of the bean according to Professor Church - Forms of preparation
Discussion on the nutritive value of Cacao-Methods of manufacture
Adulteration - Roasting - Grinding - Making up— “ Food for the Gods"
Way to make a real cup of Chocolate --Cacao butter - Essential Oils— Wish
for prosperity of the industry .. 65
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Sections of typical beans ...
Cacao Hook
Illustrations of typical varieties of the Cacao pods
PREFACE.
In May, 1882, the writer's attention was specially attracted to the

subject of the cultivation of Cacao, by being called upon by Mr. Morris,
then Director of Public Gardens Plantations , Jamaica, but now Assistant
Director of Royal Gardens , Kew , to assist him by the preparation of
drawings and diagrams and models for his Lecture on the cultivation and
curing of Cacao, delivered under the auspices of the Jamaica Institute.
The drawings and diagrams and the models of drying -houses are
deposited in the Museum of the Jamaica Institute .
Mr. Morris previous to his lecture had paid an official visit to
Trinidad for the purpose of obtaining information relative to the
production of Cacao. The lecture was published in pamphlet form and
obtained a wide circulation, and has since been republished.
The majority of facts, gathered in Trinidad by Mr. Morris, were
collated in his usual able style, and most of them have stood the test of
nearly ten years' publicity, without encountering any serious contra
diction . During his visit he gave his undivided attention to the
subject and visited the principal estates in the Island , paying special
attention to those owned and directed by Sir Joseph Needham , then
Chief Justice of Trinidad . The work was specially undertaken on
behalf of Jamaica, and his pamphlet contains much that would not
apply elsewhere.
Being frequently applied to for information on the same subject,
I have been induced to undertake the present work for the purpose of
satisfying such enquiries. Over eleven years' service under the Jamaica
Government, during the latter part of which I administered the Botan
ical Department of that Island, and five years in my present office,
a total of over sixteen years West Indian service, all spent in Botanical
work, will I hope fairly entitle me to be heard on the subject. It is
one to which I have devoted close attention, and the following pages
are now offered to the Public, confident that full credit will be given for
the endeavour to put into suitable handy form , information suitable to
he beginner, suggestions acceptable to the experienced , and information
of interest to the general reader.
The experienced Planter I do not presume to dictate to, or instruct.
with the “ Rule of Thumb” man I do not intend to quarrel, althoug!
I hold myself free to differ ; and to the inexperienced and enquiring
Planter I hope to afford useful instruction and information.
I am greatly indebted to Mr. Morris' pamphlet for many sugges.
tions , the value of which can hardly be over -estimated. From the
reports of my immediate predecessor in the charge of this Department,
I have drawn some valuable hints, and to members of the planting
community generally, I tender my best thanks for the information
afforded on many points.
J. H. HART, F.L.S. ,
Royal Botanic Gardens, Trinidad.
CHAPTER I.
Selection of Land .
OR the cultivation of the Cacao tree the soil selected should
震 be one which possesses the requisite depth of surface soil,

and one moderately rich . A shallow soil resting upon hard
ved rock is totally unsuitable, while a moderately shallow soil resting
upon a friable rock bed is often found to grow Cacao to perfection.
it is generally considered among Trinidad planters that a loose clay
or clay with an admixture of a fair proportion of sand and lime is
avourable to the growth of Cacao. If the soil is covered with a vege
able deposit which has accumulated for years from the falling leaves
ind branches of the original Forest, so much the better. If land can
be found on the banks of a stream or river where there is considerable
lepth of alluvial deposit, such a position, if capable of being well
Irained, is a sure source of wealth to the Cacao planter. Hard, dry,
ocky soils, stiff clays, mountain sides, where great detrition frequently
akes place, shallow sands, and boggy -ground should be carefully
voided . The aspect of the land should always be carefully considered .
site exposed to trade or prevailing winds, or to strong see breezes
hould not on any account be chosen for a Cacao plantation.
Land which has been previously cultivated with other crops may
De chosen when it has good depth, is easily drained , and is capable of
being improved by the application of suitable manures.
Worn out sugar lands are dangerous investments for the Cacao
lanter as a rule, but an intelligent choice even here, by men who are
vell acquainted with the local character of the soil and the Cacao tree
ind its requirements, will often result in the development of a pro
luctive plantation .
Salt is inimical to the growth of the Cacao tree, and lands liable
o be inundated with tidal waters should never be purchased.
Shelter belts of Timber should be left on the windward side of a
slantation when it is being made from the original Forest, and on
B
2 SELECTION OF LAND .
established Estates it will be found economical and convenient to cul.

tivate to windward such Timber trees as will form good “ wind breaks”
while at the same time they will grow into and afford ample material for
erection and repairs of suitable buildings for residences and for the
purpose of curing and storing of the crop .
A careful study of the trees growing upon Forest lands will afford
the intending planter a fair guide as to what the land will produce ;
for a soil producing nothing but scrubby original growth can hardly
be expected to produce good Cacao, and in fact never does. Sometimes
however, land covered with heavy Timber is found quite unsuitable
for Cacao cultivation , but this is the exception rather than the rule,
and much must indeed depend upon the planter's own faculty for
observing surrounding conditions, whether a successful choice will
eventually be made.
A planter strange to the country in which he proposes to settle,
should never choose a site, or buy properties, until he has resided in
the land for a sufficient length of time to enable him to be capable of
forming a correct judgment from his own special observation , as well
as from the reports of other persons.
An ideal spot on which to found a Cacao plantation is, a well
sheltered vale, covered with large trees, protected by mountain spurs
from the prevailing winds, well watered, and yet well drained, with
a good depth of alluvial soil on which rests a thick deposit of decayed
vegetable matter, easy of access, and in a district distant from lagoons
or marshes for the sake of the proprietor's health. Such a spot in a
climate similar to that of Trinidad could not fail to produce regular
crops of the finest quality of Cacao.
Elevation above sea-level has also to be considered in choosing
ground for planting Cacao. The higher the elevation the lower the
degree of temperature experienced , and the trees make smaller growth
and give less in annual produce.
Plantations existing at over a thousand feet above sea-level in
Trinidad are few and far between, and cannot take rank among first.
class estates . The mean annual temperature of sea-level is 78º. 1 Fah.
From this the reader can draw the conclusion, which I believe to be
correct, that planting Cacao at high elevations is not a measure of
economy or good practice, unless in specially favoured positions with
regard to soil and exposure. It would be a grave error to assume that
the planter could choose his land for cultivation by the results of a
chemical analysis of the soil only - yet many persons now do so. It is
SELECTION OF LAND . 3
however possible for land to contain all the substances or ingredients

required for the growth of a particular plant and yet be totally unsuited
to grow that plant, owing to material being present in a form which
cannot be assimilated or taken up by the roots. Oftentimes owing to
the mechanical nature of the soil, the plant food which is present
cannot be utilized by the plant, and it is on this point that the quasi
scientist fails, through relying entirely upon the result of analysis
and not giving due weight to points which are quite as essential.
To give a striking example, the Chemist tells us there is plenty
of manurial value in Bones and also in certain Phosphatic Rocks. But
as bone and rock they are practically insoluble and if applied to plants
only give off their manurial value slowly, by the process of decay, or
weathering. If however, they are chemically treated, the soluble
constituents are increased and can be rapidly absorbed or utilized as
plant food. Though there are these drawbacks yet chemical analysis
is very useful, in fact essential, to secure a right judgment on the
suitability of land for a particular crop, but alone, it should not be
trusted , and even when trusted , the samples should be taken with the
greatest care, from those sections of the ground which would give a
fair average of the area in question . Unless this is done, chemical
analysis is not alone useless, but positively misleading. For instance,
a planter takes a sample of soil from his field and brings it for analysis,
the chemist tells him it is good land, rich in various materials, and
excellent for the crop he proposes to plant. In faith of this the planter
buys and plants, alas with failure - Why ? the sample of soil was taken
from a hollow which contained the wash of the surrounding land, and
in consequence was rich in proportion, the adjoining land being poor
and valueless.
Chemical analysis is a valuable adjunct to practical planting
experience, but without that experience and practice, leads the planter
into frequent dilemmas.
B 2
CHAPTER II .
Selection of Seed - Nurseries .
ACAO is invariably raised from seed by the planter. The

seed possesses but a short life, if exposed to dry air ; if
kept in a moist situation, fermentation quickly sets in and
the seed becomes useless. It is thus very difficult to transport Cacao
seed to distant countries, or to keep it for any length of time, unless
placed under conditions favourable to germination. Cacao may be
sent in ripe pods for short journeys not exceeding 8 or 10 days, if the
pods are kept entire and without bruises. A good method of trans
porting seeds to a distance is to plant them in Wardian cases and allow
them to germinate on the voyage.
For nursery purposes seed from the best quality of Cacao only,
should be used, the largest beans should be selected, and care taken to
procure them from well ripened pods. It is a great mistake to use
seed of inferior varieties, taken from half -ripe pods and from trees in
indifferent health. This applies to all varieties from Calabacillo to
Criollo.
Some trees are better bearers than others, some produce finer
pods, and the choice, for seed purposes, should rest upon those which
produce fine large pods, good beans, and annually bears regular crops.
In the vegetable kingdom as a rule, like produces like, yet it is well
known that variations do occur, but it is certain that the chances of
procuring a good class of plants from seed are in favour of the course
recommended, rather than by procuring seeds from the refuse pods of
a plantation (as is not seldom done) and expect good results to follow .
Seed should also be selected from trees situated at a distance from
inferior varieties of Cacao, for the purpose of avoiding as far as possible
the variation which will naturally occur, where cross fertilization
is free to take place ; for if poor varieties are near to the seed
trees, the latter will be liable to produce a variety having some of the
characters of the poorer kinds, blended with their own.
Too much attention cannot be paid to the selection of a proper
SELECTION OF SEED . 5
quality of seed, if it is the planter's aim to improve the quality and

quantity of his productions. The Hon'ble Dr. de Verteuil in his work
on Trinidad - 1884 - also forcibly urges this point (p. 223. )
Having secured good seed, the planter has then to decide upon
his nursery , and the methods he will employ for the purpose of raising
sufficient stock to plant out the ground he has prepared. Every planter
has his own views, as to the best method of raising seeds and the
position most suitable for nurseries . What I should consider a bad
method would be ; a nursery made in stiff clay soil, permeated by the
roots of surrounding trees and covered by their heavy shade, seeds
sown thickly without removing pulp, some deep, others on the surface,
beds sometimes allowed to get dust dry, at other times deluged with
water . Such cannot be expected to produce healthy plants. On the
contrary, Nurseries made in a friable soil, well pulverized, in an open
situation, the seeds well cleaned and sown regularly their own diameter
beneath the surface of the soil, carefully watered when required, arti
ficially shaded from the direct rays of the sun, protected from the
trampling of animals, the ravages of rats and mice, and carefully weeded
when required ; may reasonably be expected to produce strong and
healthy plants. With those who prefer raising plants in boxes—a very
handy and economical method all things considered-the best method
to employ would be to procure well rotted and sifted Coco-nut refuse
and to sow the seeds regularly, about inch below the surface, the
boxes being made about six inches in depth and well drained. If
Coco-nut refuse is not to hand, a suitable substitute may be found in
well decomposed leaf mould. Immediately the plants have developed
their first pair of leaves, they may be potted or transferred to nursery
beds—in both cases, shading them until well established. If trans
ferred to beds, the plants should be put out, about twelve inches apart
each way -- taking especial care not to place the plant too low in the
ground. More plants die from this cause than from any other, both in
nursery and in the field . No plant whatever, whether Cacao or any
other, should ever be placed in the ground lower than the position in
which it stood in the soil as a seedling. Many people tell us a great
deal about “ tap -root. ” Personally I have no reverence whatever for
even the name of “ tap -root, ” but at the same time I have every respect
for the principle which has led to the great respect paid to the " tap
root, ” by the greater number of West Indian planters, and this principle
is, that even the slightest damage cannot occur to any root without a
loss to the plant with which it is connected.
6 SELECTION OF SEED .
Every care should therefore be taken not to injure roots, and in

making nurseries, it is always best to use a friable soil, as the plants
can always be removed from this without the injury they are sure to
sustain when grown in heavy soil. In case , however, of injury to the
roots in transplanting a jagged wound should always be trimmed with
a sharp knife, and a broken or wounded root should never be allowed
to remain on the plant, as it is very liable to induce disease and spread
decay-either when planting in nursery or field .
Transplanting may be resorted to as a check to growth, at times
when nursery plants are becoming somewhat overgrown and no ground
is ready in the field. If carefully performed , this operation will render
the plants hardy and better able to stand their deportation to a per
manent position .
Nurseries should always be placed near water, and well protected
from wind, and direct sun, but they are always the better for having
plenty of light.
Manure is not required in the nursery, unless the ground is very
poor, and it should on no account be used in the seed bed. If the
ground needs it, it may be slightly enriched with well decayed lesi
mould in suitable quantities, but it should be the planter's earnest
endeavour not to induce rampant growth in the nursery , as the plants
produced under such conditions are sure to suffer much when finally
put out in the field, a healthy sturdy plant is much better than a large
and soft wooded one, and will always make a finer tree.
CHAPTER III.
Planting and shading.
HE preparation of the land for planting is an important

and heavy work , especially if the ground is covered with
original Forest. In Trinidad the Forest is usually cut by
contract at so much per “ quarrée, " a Spanish measure of 3 1-5th acres.
The wood is burned, and the field cleaned , lined, and staked for planting .
There are two methods of planting, which are followed by planters
according to circumstances. The first is to raise plants from seeds
placed at once in the position the trees are to permanently occupy
-commonly called planting “ at stake," and the second is to plant
out the ground by using plants raised in the nursery until they are
from 12 to 24 inches in height. Generally, I believe the opinion of
our planters is in favour of using nursery plants, but there is much
to be said in favour of planting “ at stake.” Planting “ at stake"
means that the plant once fairly started, never has its roots injured in
any way by the operation of transplanting and the roots must therefore
at once and for all assume their natural position. In using nursery
plants, or plants grown in bamboo joints, the roots must of necessity
get somewhat mutilated and sometimes curled or twisted , although the
endeavour of every planter should be to raise each plant with a ball
of earth adhering, and to see that the roots are preserved as intact as
possible.
In using either method of planting the ground should be well
broken up around the exact spot where the planting is to be done.
When seed is used, three selected seeds should be placed in a triangle
about 6 inches apart and covered with about an inch of soil, pressing
the earth somewhat firmly down with the hand or foot, thus ensuring
a more regular amount of moisture 'around the seed than if the earth
was left loose. In transplanting plants from nurseries to the field
the greatest care should be taken to keep the roots as free from injury
as possible, and to secure balls of earth to each plant. The roots must
not in any case be allowed to become dry, and to secure a good supply
8 PLANTING AND SHADING ,
of moisture in the plant itself, nurseries should always be copiously

watered the evening before the plants are to be removed to the field.
In no case should the plants be exposed to a current of dry air or to
direct sunshine.
In putting the plant into the ground the planter should make
sure that he does not plant it too deep or too shallow,-what is meant
by this is described in a previous Chapter, p. 5. The surrounding
soil at the time of planting should be pressed firmly down, but no:
made hard, allowance being made for dry and wet weather, but plants
should never be put in the ground, if it can be possibly avoided, when
the ground is in an extremely sodden condition.
It is impossible however to instruct in full by writing how a plant
should be placed or planted, and one practical demonstration is worth
ten pages of manuscript or letter press. The novice should therefore
seek from the practical experience of others the requisite knowledge
for the purpose .
The distance which Cacao trees should be planted apart will be
determined by the planter in accordance with the character of the soil
and the elevation above sea-level. The higher above sea-level and
the poorer the soil the closer the trees may be planted and vice versa
a distance ranging from 12 to 15 feet apart each way will probably
meet all requirements, (i.e. ) 12 feet in poor soil and 15 feet in rich soil.
In Grenada the practice of close planting is followed much more
generally than in Trinidad, but successful planters are to be found
among those who follow each system. The wide planting cultivator
says, I get more fruit per tree and of better quality than the close
planting cultivator, while the latter affirms, I get as much from two
trees as you do from one, and the quality is as good. Probably more
depends upon the judgment of the individual planter with regard to
the character of the soil he is working than anything else. If it is
poor he will plant close, if rich and deep, he will regulate his planting
accordingly. It is not to be doubted however, that where practicable,
wide planting give the advantage of affording easier access to the
cultivator for the various operations of pruning, harvesting, manuring,
weeding, &c., and the plantations where the practice is carried out
certainly assume a much better appearance than those which are
crowded with trees. The supplying of vacancies should be carried on
during suitable weather, the aim being to obtain a field showing trees
of regular size throughout .
Planting by contract has its advantages and its disadvantages. It
PLANTING AND SHADING , 9
is — provided you have a good contractor-one of the simplest, cheapest

and easiest methods of establishing a Cacao estate.
The principle is, that the peasant enters into a contract to plant
the land with Cacao trees, for the use of the land without rent or
charge for the purpose of growing annual crops of provisions--plus a
fixed price per tree to be paid him at the end of five or six years,
when the Cacao tree commences to bear and the land become useless for
gardening purposes. For many years this system was generally adopted
in Trinidad, but during the past few years the relations between em
ployer and labourer have become somewhat strained, and in 1889 it
was found necessasy to pass an Ordinance for the purpose of controlling
contracts of this kind, each contract being signed before the Magistrate
of the District .
From a Report furnished by Mr. Justice Lewis, for the informa
tion of the Secretary of State, it would appear that during the first
year 328 of these contracts were entered into under the Ordinance.
The sum to be paid per tree varies in accordance with the situa
tion of the land and the supply of labour in the district,' and generally
ranges from 15 cts. to 25 cts. or more.
One of the greatest disadvantages of planting by the contract
system , is the certainty of having no great care exercised in selecting
the seed for producing plants. The peasant's interest is to get the
trees to grow, and he knows well that the inferior varieties are hardier
than those which produces the finest Cacao, consequently there is great
temptation for him to use the seed of inferior varieties for planting .
This, of course, may be obviated by the planter supplying the
seed and the plants, but it is not always convenient or possible for him
even then to properly supervise the planting of contractors, and the
chances are that after all, inferior varieties will be planted. On the
other hand proprietors cannot possibly plant as cheaply as a contractor,
as the latter is better able to dispose of the ground provisions in the
local markets and thus pay himself for his labour. Notwithstanding
this fact, there are not a few proprietors who prefer to plant by “ day
labour” rather than encourage the contractor to follow a kind of squat
ting existence for a term of years upon land which at the end of the
term he is often found unwilling to leave. With a dishonest contractor
the proprietor often loses one or two seasons, as it is frequently found
that men will take land, grow one or two catch crops, which exhaust
the soil, and instead of planting Cacao, disappear. As contractors are
for the most part drawn from the labouring classes, the proprietor has
no remedy, for in the attempt to recover, he is simply sustaining further

loss without the slightest possibility of recovering value of the crops
taken from his land .
Cacao is certainly benefited by intermediate cultivation between
the rows of trees in their younger stages, and planters who reside near
to their young fields --as all should who wish to work successfully
should endeavour to plant crops of which he can most readily dispose
and those which are least exhausting to the land.
SHADE.
The question of shade is one upon which much has been written ,
and upon which there exists great divergence of opinion . In the
Island of Grenada the general practice is to grow Cacao without shade.
In Trinidad the prevailing practice is to give the plants permanent
shade by planting umbrageous trees at regular intervals through the
plantations. Each system has its advantages and its disadvantages,
and no hard and fast rule can be laid down, but the novice would
certainly be safe in following the general practice of the district in
which his land is situated , giving due force to any surrounding circum
stances which may justify him in using a modification of the prevailing
practice. As stated in a previous chapter, the greatest care should be
taken in securing “ windbreaks” on the side of the plantation exposed
to the prevailing winds, and belts of original Forest should be left for
this purpose if practicable.
In Grenada the land in Cacao is sometimes undulating, but in the
major part of the Cacao districts distinctly hilly. Where the aspect
of the plantation affords by the conformation of the ground itself,
shade or shelter from a particular direction, artificial shade can cer
tainly be dispensed with in a great measure, but on level land in
Trinidad the general practice goes to prove that it is absolutely
necessary, to produce Cacao to perfection.
For shade in the lower lying lands of Trinidad the tree generally
used is the “ Bocare,” or Erythrina velutina, which affords a deep shade.
For the higher lands the “ Anauca ," or Erythrina umbrosa is used.
Both being known, together with several other Erythrinas, as “ Bois
Immortel. ” The Bois Immortel proper, however, is the " Anauca ,"
Erythrina umbrosa.* The latter grows to a much greater height than
* Mr. Morris remarks on this point as follows : - " This tree is said to store
up moisture in its tissue which it is supposed to dole out to the tree in times of
drought. This, I fear, is only a planter's sentiment and cannot stand the test of
experiment."
PLANTING AND SHADING . 11
the “ Bocare" and does not afford so dense a shade. Why these trees
should have attained their present high reputation is somewhat difficult
to arrive at, but one thing is certain, they answer well the purpose
for which they are used.
The wood of this tree for timber or fuel is utterly useless and the
branches often fall injuring the Cacao trees beneath. Among the
numerous timber trees which flourish in Trinidad it is strange that
one could not have been selected which would serve some useful
purpose besides affording shade. That such trees exist is not to be
doubted , but the difficulty is to find them . The planter , however ,
should remember that once such a tree is found and planted, it would
materially increase the value of his estate - certainly an inducement for
him to seek for such . Nearly all trees suggested for such a purpose
possess characters which gives them no economic value. Mr. Morris,
however , in his work on British Honduras suggests Castilloa Elastica
as a shade for Cacao, but having seen the plant in its native habitat
in Central America , and having had the opportunity of observing it
under careful cultivation in Trinidad , I cannot confirm Mr. Morris'
good opinion of it, as it appears from our experience that the tree
itself requires shade. Timber trees ( to be grown for the timber )
would be useless for Cacao shade, as it would be impossible to cut them
without injury to the Cacao. It is therefore patent that we should look
for a plant which produces an annual crop, which could be gathered
without injury to the Cacao. The Rubber tree is certainly such a
plant, if it would only thrive above the Cacao, and there are doubtless
many other fruit -bearing and umbrageous trees , with which it would
be desirable to experiment.
The Heveas or Siphonias, which supply the Para Rubber of the
London markets, are likely trees for this purpose, but they are of
much slower growth than the Immortel. Terminalia belerica which
supplies the “ myrabolans" of commerce might also be tried. Both these
trees thrive well in Trinidad. It will be seen that although it is
desirable to procure a better tree than the “ Bois Immortel,” it is a
difficult task to find one, and the novice had therefore better rest
content with what has served the planter so well in the past, and
stick to the Bois Immortel, leaving the experimental trials of new
plants to the more experienced planter.
Having decided upon the question of the permanent shade he will
use, the planter should make arrangements to plant it either before or
at the same time as the Cacao. The distance and manner of planting
will depend a great deal upon the ground, the quality of the soil and
the exposure, but the usual distance is from 35 to 40 feet apart each
way for the “ Bocare,” and from 40 to 45 feet apart for the “ Anauca. "
For the smaller shade plants , Corn ( Zea mays), Pigeon or Gongo
Pea ( Cajanus indicus) , Tannias, Eddoes, or Cocoes ( Colocasia esculenta ),
Castor oil (Ricinus communis) , Cassava (Manihot utillissima ) and the
Banana or Plantain ( Musa sapientum ), can be used. The Banana or
Plantain used for shade is usually planted intermediate between the
permanent rows of Cacao. If Cacao is at 15 feet, then Banana 71 and
so on. A variety of Plantain commonly known as the “ Moko," or
“ Jumbi Plantain , " is preferred to other members of the family by
Trinidad planters for the purpose of affording secondary shade. The
fruit of this plant is however considered fit for little else but cattle
food, though the green fruit when dried and pounded makes a
wholesome, pleasant and nutritive meal, which is a most suitable
food for invalids and children . Since the Banana trade has assumed
such large proportions in the West Indies, attention has been called
to the value of the Banana as a shade plant for Cacao. The fruit
shipped from Jamaica is known there as the " Martinique Banana,"
and in the various Colonies it appears under different names ; in
Trinidad being recognized only under the name of “ Gros Michel,”
and the plant proves by those who have tried it to be very suitable
for Cacao shade .
The distance at which the intermediate shade plants should be

placed apart is a matter of the planter's convenience, the skilful will
always take care that he has enough and not too much , but as they
are removed after four or five years it matters little really what is the
exact distance they are placed apart so long as the object is attained
of giving the Cacao the necessary shade.
A form of planting at stake may be effected by planting at once
the Moko or Gros Michel at the exact distance apart the Cacao is
intended to be, and sowing in or near the Banana stool the three seeds ;
the Banana stool will, with the intermediate shade crops, give quite
sufficient protection to the young seedling , and the costly process of
staking with pickets" is avoided.
The after cultivation , i.e. weeding or cutlassing, of a Cacao estate
is a work which is done on the average about twice in each year . It
is done by task work as a rule and at the rate of 40¢. to 50c. per task ,
or at a cost of about 5s. per acre,
PLANTING AND SHADİNG. 13
The cost of weeding, of course, depends upon the amount of weeds

to be cut, and the better the plantation covers the ground, the smaller
number of weeds there will be . Seldom or ever does the planter
dream of using the hoe for cutting up weeds, although it may be con
veniently used in the younger stages of a plantation, before the roots
of the Cacao have taken possession of the surface. Hoe1 weeding is
then much more effective than cutlassing.
Whatever system is used the bush should never be allowed to be
rolled up so as to cover the stem of the tree, but should be neatly
made into winrows to be again distributed over the ground when
sufficiently decayed.
CHAPTER IV.
Manuring and Pruning.
SECTION 1. — MANURING .
HEN lecturing in Grenada in 1889, I made a statement,
W much to the surprise of some of the Grenada planters, that

Cacao or any other tree in good health needed no manure.
I am still of the same opinion and I am aware that its defence rests
solely upon what is understood by the definition of a Cacao tree
in good health . It is therefore needful that I should describe what
I understand by a Cacao tree in good health.
It is a tree which from the seedling stage has annually made good
periodic growth, producing leaves and branches which are healthy and
strong, without disease, or blight, and which produces an average crop
of fruit, without dropping it prematurely or loosing it by the attacks
of disease, and a tree which can withstand a maximum of either drought
or rainfall without its general bearing being affected .
Such a tree I say needs no manure. It must not, however, be
understood that I hold the opinion that no manure should ever be
applied to Cacao, for such would be in direct opposition to the prin
ciples and practice of agricultural science and could not be upheld.
The application of manure to trees planted in poor soil, to trees which
are in weak health, or to trees which it is desirable should make a more
than usually rapid growth to serve a purpose of the cultivator, would
have good effect, and could not be deprecated, but the application of
manures to trees in good health and in average bearing, would have the
result of encouraging rank growth which would be non-productive and
a loss of crop would be the result. A tree, like a horse, can do more
work when in " condition ” and with less exertion than it can if overfed
or surfeited. Manure may, however, be advantageously applied to trees
in average health, should it be found that the plant has set itself more
work to do than it can efficiently carry out, i.e. by setting a larger
crop of fruit than usual. In such a case the application of manure
MANURING AND PRUNING . 15
would certainly be beneficial and enable the tree to carry a crop which,
under ordinary circumstances and without manure, it would not be able
to, but the application of manure to a tree before the fruit is formed,
or at an early period of its growth, would probably result in inciting
the tree to produce a large amount of branch growth, to the detriment
of the fruit, which would probably fall.
It will be seen therefore, that the application of manures to Cacao
(having reference to chemical or artificial manures chiefly) requires
great judgment and should only be done under the personal supervision
of a skilful cultivator, or loss may result. Where, however, the plan
tation will evidently be the better as a whole for the stimulating
action of manure, owing to a poor soil , its application may be made
general and not special from tree to tree.
Farm yard or stable manure can always be applied with much
greater safety than chemical manures , it is not so quick in its action ,
but the effect lasts longer upon the tree.
The application of manure is a subject upon which chemists and
vegetable physiologists differ in many respects. The chemist is apt to
insist upon the manure being buried beneath the soil, or he says much
of its value will be lost owing to the dispersion of its volatile pro
perties by moving air, but the cultivator may easily ascertain the best
method of applying manures of all kinds, if he studies the life history
and character of the plant and the nature and morphology of its organs
of assimilation .
To dig deeply about the roots of a surface feeding plant for the pur
pose of applying manure would be absurd, as we are thereby destroying
the very organs or mouths, which are ready to take up the plant food as
it is presented to them, and which are situated in the proper place to
carry out the process with advantage. The destruction of roots which
the operation of burying manure occasions would in such an instance
almost nullify the action of the manure applied, as the broken roots
would not have the same power nor the same amount of surface for
absorbing the material, and the manure applied, through coming into
direct contact with injured tissue, would tend to destroy the roots by its
caustic character rather than be absorbed by them . That beneficial
results do follow the action of manure which is buried beneath the
surface is of course patent to the merest novice, but in the case of
surface feeding plants, it is only after the injury done to the roots is
recovered from , and when these organs are again in a condition to
perform their proper functions. With deep rooting plants the burial
16 MANURING AND PRUNING .
of manure is probably the most economical method of application as

there can then be no loss from the escape of its volatile constituents.
If we think over for a while the course which nature has pursued
for ages in supplying plants with their food we shall find that the
method adopted is purely surface manuring . Even the ground the
plant grows on has been almost entirely formed by additions to its
surface, by detritus from surrounding lands, by deposits made by
flood waters, or by decay induced by the flow of water over its surface,
carrying with it solvents which are able to disintegrate the materials
of which it is composed . For tree cultivation , this is the only method
in which the manure can be fully utilized , and we can easily take steps
to guard against evaporation or dispersion of volatile principles by
covering the manure with material which will act as an absorbent or
one which will retain those constituents likely to escape.
In the preparation of land for general crops of an annual or
perennial character, such as European cereals, the thorough incorporation
of the manure with soil is of course carried out as completely as possible,
but with this kind of manuring we have nothing to do in connection
with Cacao cultivation , as it is not required and can only be employed
where the field is clear of growing crops.
It will be seen therefore, that the course of manuring which I
recommend for adoption is one which is based upon careful observation
of Nature's processes . We cannot command Nature, but can only
venture to assist her, and we can do so by following out and under:
standing to the full the methods she employs.
The Cacao tree although it likes a deep rich soil, is also a surface
feeding plant, and the ground around the trees cannot be dug or
forked with impunity, for although the tree will stand considerable
hardship, it is nevertheless materially injured when the roots are
mutilated. There are conditions, however, such as when the surface
soil is thoroughly baked by drought, when it would be beneficial to
lightly prick it up with a fork , taking care not to break the roots, and
allow any moisture that falls to reach them at once. A slight
forking is also permissible when farm yard manure is about being
applied, having due regard to what has been said in the foregoing on
the injury caused by the indiscriminate use of fork or spade. Surface
applied manure should be finally covered with a thin layer of earth or
sand, but if applied after being made into compost, this is not so
necessary an operation , as the volatile constituents of the manure
åre then held fast in a great measure .
In applying chemical manures of a caustic character it is always

vell to mix them well with a proportion of fine absorbent earth , and to
over over all with another coating of the same material. The reason for
his is obvious. The primary object of manure is of course to supply
olant food when the land has become exhausted. It is of course patent
hat with a continued production of annual crops a large quantity of
naterial is removed from the soil, and this must be replaced either by
lature or artificially, or the crop will fall short . Farm yard manure
akes a foremost position amongst all others, and long continued practice
shows that when properly applied is of the greatest value to the land
not only for its manurial properties, but for its mechanical action upon
the soil, and it can never be as dangerous to use as chemical manures,
which are decidedly hazardous when applied by unskilled labour. In
the use of Lime there is found a powerful ally of the cultivator in his
efforts to promote the fertility of the soil, and here also it is better to
apply it very near to the surface, and to cover with a shallow layer of
ordinary soil. In nature, however, manure is given to roots of plants
by the decomposition of vegetable substances, and is carried down by
the rain water that falls. Rain water itself also provides a certain
quantity of plant food for the roots and acts as a solvent for the mineral
constituents of the soil .
The plant or tree does not, however, obtain all its food from
the soil, as the surrounding air provides it with a large portion of its
nourishment, taken up in a gaseous form by its leaves. It should be
the aim of the cultivator therefore to maintain on his trees as large
a proportion of healthy leaves as the tree can carry. Whether the
food is taken up by the roots or by the leaves themselves, the leaves
are the organs in which all the material necessary for the purposes of
growth and reproduction is formed and distributed.
The importance of maintaining at all times a healthy crop of
leaves on the tree cannot be over-estimated, and this is the reason for
the adoption of a system of pruning by which the leaves are made to
distribute themselves with great regularity over the branches of the
tree so as to place them in the best position possible for the work they
have to perform .
PRUNING .
The act of pruning is popularly supposed to cause the production

of fruit. That properly carried out, it has this effect, is not to be
doubted, but the effect is not so direct as is often assumed.
C
18 MANURING AND PRUNING ,
Given a young tree in good health , and with a single stem, ti

pruning should commence by the regulation of the primaries , or fir
branches made by the tree. There should, as a general rule, be on
three, or at most four primary branches left on the Cacao tree . The
should be encouraged to extend themselves laterally, as they have
natural tendency to do, and should be encouraged to develope
regular distances the secondary branches. The tertiary branch
should also be encouraged to grow at regular intervals.
In these stages the operation should be performed before the wo
is sufficiently hard to require the use of the knife, by the method call
pinching, which is carried out with the thumb and finger, pinching
the young, succulent shoots that are not required. At all times
should be the endeavour of the pruner to maintain the tree w
balanced, i.e. it should not have one branch growing more rapic
than another so as to make it appear lop -sided from any point of vie
Many cultivators do not regard this point sufficiently in carryi
out their pruning operations, and many branches are left, owing
their being bearing branches , which , for the permanent security of 1
tree, for its appearance and for its general bearing qualities, should
removed ; for it is much better to check at once the tendency of a ti
to assume an irregular and uncultivated form , than to allow a bran
to grow for a time and finally be compelled to remove it when of
larger size.
The pruning of a tree should be conducted with a view to 1
production of fruit . Unless we have a plentiful supply of good healt
leaves, evenly distributed over the tree so as to obtain a maximum
the light and air they require, we cannot expect to secure large cri
of fruit , in fact unless the machinery is in good working order and
supply of fuel abundant, we cannot expect a good output. The lea
and roots represent the machinery, and water, sunlight, air and manu
acting together, may well represent the fuel supplied.
The branches of a Cacao tree therefore, should be evenly distribut
so that the leaves they carry may be maintained in good health, <
just thinly enough distributed to admit sufficient sun and air to matı
the fruit.
In pruning neglected trees, the first thing to do, is to cut

all useless wood, or wood which can never be expected to bear, or
produce bearing branches. Next, to equalize or balance your tree,
last, to thin out your branches, and fore -shorten them when requir
In removing branches the greatest care should be exercised not to

make jagged, ragged, splintering or slivering cuts, but to make clean
and even cuts close to the wood and near to a bud or young branch into
which the sap will be presently directed if the operation is well
performed .
The young branches which are often found growing erect, (com
monly called gormandizers from the rapidity of their growth) , are pro
ductions which show that the parent stem, as it stands, does not provide
sufficient channels for the expenditure of the sap supplied by the roots,
and in consequence this sap provides for itself an outlet and expends
itself upon the production of rapid growth in a single direction . It
shows that the channels for the conveyance of sap are clogged or
contracted, and that the amount of sap produced cannot pass into the
more matured portion of the tree. It is also an effort of nature to
recover itself from hard work. Every physiologist knows that unless
branches are produced, roots cannot be, and the production of root is
in exact ratio to the production of branch. When however a tree is
bearing fairly in proportion to its size, it is better to keep down these
branches, removing them as soon as they appear, as it is certain that by
affording free openings for the absorption of the sap, they rob the crop
of the full amount of nourishment it should obtain, and the productive
powers of the tree is seriously affected . They should be removed
however as they appear, and not be allowed to grow to a large size and
then be removed, as that practice would be simply a waste of all the
material used up in producing them, instead of diverting it to the
production of fruit. In cases where a Cacao tree has evidently become
somewhat worn out or barren , i.e. its bearing wood shows evident signs
of an unhealthy condition, it is better to make use of a “ gormandizer "
to supply a new bearing head to the tree and give it a new lease of life.
By allowing one of these branches to grow from a suitable portion
on the stem and treating it carefully in a similar manner as we would
a young plant, it is possible to rejuvenate and bring again into bearing
trees from which, owing to their stunted and contracted character, no
produce could ever be expected. And it is really wonderful in what a
short time the operation can be completed if skilfully carried out.
After the young tree thus formed has assumed fair proportions the older
wood should be carefully cut away from time to time, but not at once,
as heavy pruning is always a check to growth. If pruning is done by
a saw the wounds should afterwards be smoothed over with a sharp
knife, as they always heal over better if thus treated. In situations
C 2
20 MANURING AND PRUNING .
where the cacao beetle or beetles ( for there are several species) , are
plentiful a mixture of coal tar and clay of the consistency of paint should
be applied to all wounds.
Pruning with a blunt cutlass , knife, or cacao hook , should never
be allowed . The instruments used should be those only which are
able to carry a keen edge, and pruners should always be supplied with
the means of sharpening them without leaving the field .
The time for pruning is much insisted upon in Trinidad as being
influenced by the moon . ” On this point I desire to remain passive,
in a similar way as the big blacksmith did when he allowed his little
wife to beat him . As the tale goes—when asked why he allowed it,
" Why,” said he, “ it pleases her and it don't hurt me, so what
matters ?” Well, if it pleases the Cacao planters to prune at a parti
cular time of the moon , by all means let them do so . It pleases them ,
and it does not hurt the trees , so it cannot matter . Mr. Morris, when
writing on the same point, used the following words :
The Spaniards have a deeply-rooted prejudice against trimming Cacao at full
moon . They say it causes the tree to bleed and eventually to die. It is a well
known and general axiom in horticulture that trees should not be pruned when
sap is most active, but with regard to the particular instance of the Cacao tree it
is a question which only experienced and intelligent Cacao planters can determine.
I was myself led to look upon the prejudice, at first, as having some general
grounds based upon long acquaintance with the habits of the Cacao tree, but when
I found Spanish settlers had equally strong prejudices against gathering pods for
seed purposes, and putting out plants during the same period, I came to the con
clusion that the subject was one which might very fairly be left for the present an
open question. I may add that I saw in Trinidad trees pruned on good estates
at all phases of the moon, and no injurious effects had been noticed or anticipated.
Whether the moon has an influence on plant growth or not, I am
in accord with Mr. Morris that the matter had better be left an open
question ; not that I have any personal doubt upon the matter, but the
question being one in which my opinion has little or no influence either
way upon the progress of cultivation ; each individual may adhere to
his own particular practice without being at a disadvantage. Through
a succession of nearly thirty years practical experience, I have personally
carried out a number of experiments bearing on the subject, in the course
of which I could not find that the moon's influence on plant life was other
than completely nil.
The season for pruning is however a different matter, but on this
also opinions differ. It is however generally taken as an accepted rule
that in established Cacao, pruning or ' trimming,"" ' * as it is called in
* “ Cacao : How to grow and how to cure it,” by Mr. Morris, p. 29.
Trinidad, is best carried on at the close of crop time. The practice is

certainly reasonable as the trees are devoid of both fruit and flowers
and suffer no possibility of injury.
On first class estates where cultivation is carried out in a scientific
manner , the tree should annually receive attention in the matter of
pruning, &c. Every tree should be visited and carefully examined .
On
many estates in Trinidad it is the practice to prune only at intervals
of once in three or four years. Such cannot be considered good
practice as the less pruning that is done to a tree at one operation the
better.
It should be remembered that a cut made in pruning a tree, is
just as much a wound, as a cutting of a finger from the human body,
and that although the plant may repair the injury to a certain extent,
still the wound remains, and produces a certain disorganization of
tissue, not seldom resulting in decay and death .
The cultivator should be careful in removing and burning as far as
possible prunings from the ground . If left to rot upon the plantation
these prunings become the home of innumerable wood destroying
insects, and beetles which are inimical to the welfare of the Cacao
plant. There is nothing like tidiness and cleanliness in any cultivation,
and departure therefrom is sure to produce sooner or later its
concomitant evils .
The practice of pruning, the way to hold knife or saw, cutlass or
cacao hook , cannot be taught by any writer. The inexperienced should
seek practical instruction, and even then it requires a considerable
amount of time and experience ere he will be able to handle his tools
with dexterity and precision.
The difference between a slovenly cut and a clean cut are at once
apparent when the work is compared , and no workman should be
permitted to practice pruning upon valuable trees until he is well
accomplished in the practical use of the tools employed.
The skilful pruner can , by a proper handling of his tools, and
cutting back to buds situated in the positions from which he desires a
branch to come, form the tree at will into the shape he requires, and
the plantations in which his skill is exhibited will always present a
tidy and cultivated appearance, while those of the negligent and un
skilful pruner will always look untidy and irregular.
Good maxims for the cultivator are , prune little, but prune
often ; prune carefully, but prune with decision. Prune for leaves
and a crop must come,
CHAPTER V.
Roads and Draining . – Temperature and Rainfall.

ROADS .
HE laying out of Roads for a Cacao estate should always

one of the first considerations of the planter. If the cro
he grows is difficult in the first place to get to the curin
house, and in the second place difficult to get to the market, it wi
easily be seen that, what would in other cases be a fair amount of profi
can, owing to difficulty of transport, be easily frittered away. ]
laying out an estate therefore the proprietor should reserve traces :
right angles to each other for roads to be used for the purpose of colle
ting his crop, and ascertain that the land he selects is near to a goc
main road or railway, so that his produce can be easily placed upo
the market .
With estates on the plains roads are, of course easily made, but
situated on a hill side, to make roads is somewhat more difficult, bu
stilt even here it is better to allow space for and to make good roads ; i
as to give easy access to every part of a plantation . Hill side roat
are not difficult to make once the principle is understood, but as wit
pruning the work can hardly be described, and is best learnt by pra
tical experience under the tuition of an experienced planter.
The land taken up by roads is by some planters thought to 1
wasted, and many are satisfied with planting the whole ground withoi
providing anything which can be definitely called a road. The econon
of having a proper system of roads is however easily understood by tho
who have been used to systems of the kind, and the loss on the numb
of trees which would be planted on the land occupied by a road is mo:
than recouped to the planter by the accessibility the roads afford whe
pursuing any of the operations of cultivation or harvesting crop.
The distance at which roads should be made will have to }
determined entirely by the lay or aspect of the plantation. In fli
land any distance from 4 to 8 chains may be used ; the richer the so
the nearer the roads should be together,
DRAINING . 23
In draining as in pruning and road -making, only general principles

zan be laid down. All land of course requires draining of some kind or
inother, but no one can give definite instructions for draining an area
until it is understood what amount of drainage that particular area
requires. Land situated at a low level will of course require much more
attention to rid it of superabundant water than will hill -side land, and
each area must therefore be drained according to its own requirements.
The principle for which the drainage is required is , to rid a Cacao
estate of stagnant or superabundant moisture. Flood waters from a
river, so long as they do not cover an estate for too long a period, do
but little practical harm, indeed in some districts they are looked
upon as doing a large amount of good, by bringing down and depositing
upon the surface a certain amount of manurial constituents.
Drains made in any kind of cultivation should always be made
V shaped with a narrow bottom, and the practice of making drains with
upright sides, which allow of the sides falling in and choking the
drain , cannot be too strongly condemned, and in no case can they be
recommended , and the depth and width of the drains should be regulated
by the circumstances of soil and situation .
Drains should never be made straight in coming downhill, as when
so made the wash becomes enormous, especially if the descent approaches
in any way an angle of 35 degrees, but in flat land the straighter they
are made the better.
The site for a plantation should always be selected where there
is a good natural main outlet for drainage waters.
Under draining with pipe, rubble, or bush draining is I consider
utterly useless in Cacao cultivation, as it stands to reason that such
drains must very early be filled by the roots of the trees, (both Cacao
and shade trees ) and that their action after the first few months will
be stopped by these roots finding their way into them in search of
moisture. The theory is good but the practice is quite unsound. It is
different in lands on which cereal crops are annually cultivated, for
there the roots never reach to the drains during the period of growth ,
and consequently the drains themselves work from year to year without
let or hindrance. The planter must therefore trust entirely to his
surface drainage and make that system do the work to the best advantage.
TEMPERATURE .
The temperature required for the growth of the Cacao tree will
be best seen from the records of the temperature as taken at the Royal
Botanic Gardens, the temperature and humidity being somewhat similar
in the various Cacao districts .
METEOROLO
RESULTS
T
ROYAL
BOTANIC
GARDENS
F
,, RINIDAD
THE
YEAR
OR 1890 GICAL
.
24
STATION
130
ABOVE
L-FEET
EVEL
.SEA
.
BAROMETER THERMOMETER
. S WIND
.
REDUCED
.READINGS .
BULBS
WET
AND
DRY
.
MONTH
A
7 .M. P
3.M. A
7.M. P
3.M.
Bar
. Bar
. D. W. D. W.
ture, Blacken'd
Vapour.
meter on Grass
Bnlb in Vacuo.
ture, Thermo.
Maximum .
Minimum .
Rainfall.
Dew Point, 7 A.M.
Mean Tempera
Direction .
Humidity.
Tension of Aqueous
Dew Point, 3 P.M.
Mean Tempera
In
. .
In O O O o o .
In 0 o
o
o
O
January 29.970 29.929 71'0 6908 81.3 74.9 843 6808 1436 '
80 720 7.76 68.9 70'5
February 29.979 934
29 682 66.8 814 73.2 1
85 66.0 147.8 65.3 65.7
78 "661 0:51 676
March 29.988 29.933 704 68.8 :1
82 :1
73 86.2 67'5 149.5 67.0 75 .661 2.09 67.5 67.0
April 29.999 29.950 736 71.3 798 74.4 84.4 700 142.1 1
69 *
80 7.62
*746 69'0 7007
May 30.017 29.961 71.7 703 82.2 75.5 85.9 695 145.0 67.9 5.14 692
79 733 71'0
June 30.045 29.980 74.7 728 81.9 74.8 85.5 7000 143'4 68'1 77 7
* 46 9068 71'4 70'0
July 30.038 29.992 7306 71.8 81
:1 75'6 86.3 68'6 145.9 66.6 80 *759 12.89 7004 71.8
August 29.993 29.936 74'8 73.0 82.2 767 863 68.9 146.2 658 82 7* 98 11.65 717 73.0
September 29.968 891
29 741 72-3 83.7 76.6 890 704 150.2 68.4 80 7
* 72 3.37 70.9 71.9
October 29.987 29.927 738 72-3 81.1 75.9 86'8 706 1480 65.6 82 10.98
•772 71.2 72-3
November 29.960 29.909 733 708 833 76.5 87.7 701 147.3 643 78 746 5.93 689 71.9
TEMPERATURE .
December 29.960 29.910 700 7

69 82.9 75.2 85.9 681 :1
144 63.0 80 •720 5:28 695 70'0
Average
for
year 29.992 937
29 72-4 70.8 81.9 75.2 1
86 69'0 146'0 66'4 79 *736 6.90 69.5 70'6
“ EEEEEEEEEEEEE
Mean
sight
daily
) height Mean
Anuual
Temperature 77.5 Total 82.90
Barometer
of
inches
.29.964
Rainfall inches
.
Inches
of *Mean
Annual Tenperature Temperature ,
Temperature
.
Rainfall Humidity
. Mean
Maximum
. Mean
.Minimum Annual
.Mean
show
1887
for
Records
The 64.09
.
79 O
85.9 69.0 O
79.7
1888 65.44 80 87.5 697 78.6
1889 73.79 77 877 :1
70 78.9
1890 82.90 .
79 1
86 1
69 775
Four
Years
M
' ean 71.55 79 86-8 6904 786
S
equals
.* aturation
100
TEMPERATURE . 25
It will be seen from the table given that the average humidity
is 79 , taking saturation at 100 . In some districts of the Island the
amount of relative humidity or moisture suspended in the atmosphere
is probably much greater than at the Royal Botanic Gardens. It may
therefore be held that what is indicated for this district, is the lowest
permissible amount for a district suitable for Cacao cultivation, and that
such crops would be benefited by a greater amount of humidity.
The annual Rainfall at the Botanic Gardens for the past four years
shows an average of 71.55 inches, but by taking a longer period of 35 years
this average is reduced to 65.49 inches.
In my experience, humidity is a much more important feature in
plant growth than temperature alone, and no plant suffers more than
Cacao at periods when the air is deficient in moisture. Even in the
driest weather in Trinidad the Hygrometer shews that during the later
portion of the night and early morning the moisture in the air closely
approaches to saturation and it is only the readings of the period between
10 A.M and 4 P.M, which reduces the record to the average of 78.
Cacao can stand a certain amount of severe drought for short
intervals, but districts which are subject to continued drought, are
certainly not suitable for the cultivation of the Cacao tree, as under
such circumstances the Cacao tree MUST certainly die.
RAINFALL .
Countries in which the mean annual rainfall is greater than in

Trinidad may not possess the same humidity, and therefore are not as
suitable for the cultivation of our plant, and countries on the other
hand which exhibit a smaller annual rainfall may be more suitable for
Cacao cultivation owing to the presence of the requisite amount of
humidity ; for in no country is the humidity fully determined by or
coincident with the rainfall, as it is often influenced by many other
outside conditions . On the south side of the Island of Jamaica for
instance, although a similar temperature prevails as in Trinidad, the
humidity shows a remarkable divergence from our record, and in that
fact shews plainly that this district is utterly unsuited for the growth
of Cacao . Though there are other situations in that Island where the
requisite humidity can be obtained and where the tree thrives exceedingly
well and produces large crops of fruit.
The planter must not take it for granted therefore, that because
he is in the West Indies, Central or South America, etc. , etc. , in a
climate exhibiting a temperature similar to Trinidad, that he can rely
26 RAINFALL .
upon such a situation or climate as being suitable for Cacão, for he

cannot do so, as he will find probably to his cost if he attempts the
venture . Having thus learnt what the Cacao tree requires in the
matter of moisture or humidity the planter must examine for himself
and depend on his own judgment in selecting a spot for a Cacao plan
tation, especially if it happens to be in a country where the cultivation
of that product has not preceded him.
In the West Indies as in other countries the higher the elevation
the cooler the temperature, and the greater the moisture during the
hours of darkness, and in hilly situations in well sheltered positions
Cacao has been found to thrive owing to the presence of sufficient
humidity in places where the temperature is very much below the
mean annual of the finest Cacao districts .
PART II,
CHAPTER VI .
PICKING .
N picking Cacao it is the practice to make use of an in

strument known as a Cacao hook, which is manufactured
for the purpose. (See appended illustration. )
The instrument is made of a shape to be used either by a push,
a pull, or by a side cut, and when kept well sharp, and affixed to a light
bamboo rod, serves admirably for collecting the pods from the higher
branches of the Cacao tree, but a sharp cutlass or knife is used for
taking the pods from that portion of the tree within reach of the arm.
Care should always be taken not to cut too close to the cushion ” or
point when the Cacao pod is borne, as the tree presents a succession of
flowers and fruit from — at or near—the same point each season, and if
the part is wounded by a cutting instrument or bruised by a blunt

one, the supply of flowers, and consequently fruit, will be reduced during
the following season.
The pods or fruit of the Cacao tree should not be harvested until
they are properly ripe, and it requires a considerable amount of prac
tice and experience to judge when the pod is thus fit to be gathered.
If collected when over -ripe, or when insufficiently ripe, the quality of
the produce is much affected , as it assuredly results in making an
uneven sample. Only skilled and careful workmen should be em
ployed for this work, as the planter will save a large amount of after
picking and sorting if the harvesting is properly done. It is much
better to go through the plantation and pick " little and often ," and
secure good samples, than to pick green and over-ripe together and have
afterwards the trouble of sorting the picking to eliminate the inferior
beans.
Where there is considerable variation in the kind of pods produced
it is better to sort the pods before shelling or breaking them rather
than make a mixture composed of the several varieties of beans
28 PICKING .
cultivated, as these are known to require different treatment during

preparation for market. For instance, Calabacillo is known to require
different treatment to Criollo , and Criollo again a different treatment
to that required by Forastero.
The pods when thus collected should be placed in separate heaps.
By some cultivators they are left a day or two before being opened, by
others they are opened at once and the beans sent on to the curing -house,
or Boucan as it is called in Grenada . The latter practice would be our
choice, as it enables the planter to secure his produce from the weather
and from the depredations of rats, squirrels and the not infrequent Cacao
thief. In the one case the labour is performed by a few pickers and
carriers, and the breaking has to wait until sufficient material is secured
for a single fermentation , in the latter more hands are required but the
picking of a single day is fermented by itself.
On large Cacao estates however it is almost impossible to gather
or harvest Cacao without having some overripe pods and pods with
growing beans, among the crop. These should be separated when the
breaking takes place, if not before discovered, and treated by themselves,
as such material can never make first - class Cacao .
The wages paid in Trinidad for picking Cacao is from 40 to 60 cents
per day.
SHELLING OR BREAKING.
This operation, as before shewn, is sometimes done in the field and

the produce carried home in bags, or the pods are first carried and then
broken at the curing -house. Whichever plan is adopted is immaterial,
but the planter should endeavour to practice that which in his case
would be most economical .
The operation of shelling or breaking is done with a cutlass or
large knife. A cut is made round the middle of the pod, taking care
not to allow the tool to go through the shell so as to injure the beans.
The pod is then broken in the middle by a sharp jerk , and the beans
are taken out and separated from the fibrous tissue of which the
placenta is composed. If superior samples of Cacao are intended to be
made, it is very important that the breakers should be instructed to
carry out strictly a sorting process which will separate the ripe from
the unripe beans , and the different varieties from one another , for it is
possible to make a more even sample by giving due attention at this
stage than by any other means , for from the appearance of the sweet
pulp surrounding it, the condition of the interior of the bean can be
correctly estimated.
SHELLING OR BREAKING . 29
It is here I am persuaded that the Ceylon planter obtains a most

decided advantage over his Trinidad confrère. In the majority of
cases , and on the greater number of estates in Trinidad, the breaking
is left to those who are not able, through the want of technical edu
cation, to understand the value of pursuing at this point any particular
system , and they are besides so wedded to the use of a system of their
own on which they are unable or uninclined to improve, that it becomes
almost useless to attempt to introduce any measure of reform .
There are men among the planters of Trinidad however, who are
well alive to the importance of making improvements in their manu
facture, but as they are met at every turn by the prejudices in favour
of the ordinary rule - of-thumb methods, and often ridiculed by those
who ought to know better, it is a hard uphill and an expensive fight
to get these required reforms into working order.
With the small settler it is doubtful if such classification of produce
could be carried out with any real advantage, so long as each producer
undertakes the curing of his own crop, but were a system of CENTRAL
FACTORIES to be established in the Island for the benefit of the peasant
and of the smaller owners, such a system of classification could be
most efficiently carried out, and the general character of the produce
would be greatly improved, although even on large estates many owners
hold to the view that a system of classification does not pay owing to
the increased cost it entails for the extra labour necessary to carry
it out.
Such is the familiar pessimist view always found to be held by

certain members engaged in any kind of agricultural industry ; whether
it is a true view or not is best shown by the fact that in the markets
of the world we always find that we must produce a first -class article
to enable it to obtain a name, and to obtain a name means to obtain
a profit above our competitors ; but how can we obtain the name unless
we use our best endeavours to make the first - class article. To make
a first -class article in any trade or business, is well known to pay much
better than to make ordinary produce, and this is where the Ceylon
planter has shewn himself to great advantage of late years, and his
Trinidad confrère loses per contra by inattention to such details.
The cost of shelling or breaking per barrel of course depends upon
the management, upon distance, and upon the available supply of labour.
In such operations, cost depends more upon economical management
than upon anything else, one manager being able to do things much
cheaper than another who follows a different system of working.
CHAPTER VII.
Fermentation .
T the latter part of the year 1889 , being desirous of obtaining

information from Trinidad planters of the various methods
in use for conducting an operation which nearly every one
of them considers of such great importance in the proper preparation
of Cacao beans for the market ; I suggested to His Excellency the
Governor, Sir William Robinson, K.C.M.G. , that it would be a useful
measure to offer a prize for the best Essay on the Fermentation of
Cacao. ” The proposal was well received by His Excellency, and he
fixed the amount of the prize at $25 .
His Excellency afterwards increased the value of the prize to $ 50,
giving a second and third prize, so that more essays could be published,
and instructed me to award the prizes . The first was given to Dr.
Chittenden, the second to Mr. Crichlow, and the third to Mr. Eugène
Lange, senr. The Essays were published in the Agricultural Record
and incited a large amount of public attention and criticism at the
time. They were followed by a summary in the Agricultural Record,
in which it was stated that my opinion on several points was reserved
until I had the opportunity of expressing it in the pages of this work,
and therefore with all deference to other authorities, I now present my
view of the question to the public.
The Essays themselves are reprinted as an Appendix to this work ;
they are useful in showing the diversity of opinion which exists amongst
planters as to the means employed ; and also as affording a choice of
methods ; for it cannot be doubted that although each planter may
follow a somewhat different method, each method is also capable of
producing a fine class of Cacao .
In writing upon the Fermentation of Cacao it is necessary however
to consider
1st. The necessity for the operation ;
2nd. The change that is brought about ;
3rd. What causes the change, and
4th. Why dissimilar methods produce similar results.
FERMENTATION . 31
1st. - The necessity for the operation.

We find that there are countries growing Cacao where the practice
of fermentation is not carried out in the same manner as in Trinidad ;
but it is an admitted fact at the same time that these countries obtain
but a very low value for their produce. Fermented Cacao fetches a
much better price than the unfermented, it is therefore only reasonable
to suppose that the practice should be adopted in some one of its forms
by all the largest producing countries .
The process is therefore THE ONE upon which the commercial value
of the crop depends, and no matter what variety of Cacao is grown, be
it Criollo, Forastero, or Calabacillo, its value will be relatively enhanced
if a proper system of fermentation is carried out. The systems or
methods extant for fermenting Cacao are innumerable, though there
appears the same underlying principle in all of them .
It is necessary first of all to remove the pulp surrounding the
berry, so as to allow the bean to dry - how we do this is a matter of
little moment so that we do it effectually - but if in removing it, we
can at the same time affect improvement in the substance of the kernel
itself, we shall be carrying out at one operation what we should find
very difficult to do if carried out separately. For instance, if we first
removed the pulp, we should not afterwards be able to change the
substance of the kernel . Fermentation is considered by all operators
as the easiest way of effectually getting rid of the pulp, and it is also
probably the only reliable way of changing the character of the interior
of the seed.
It may be held that little or no fermentation is necessary for some
markets, and that the bitter flavour and the purplish colour of the bean
do not require alteration ; but those who hold these views in Trinidad
are greatly in the minority at present. It is plain therefore that
fermentation is a necessity for the removal of the pulp, it is a necessity
to allow of the bean being quickly dried, and it is a necessity for the
purpose of altering and improving the character of the substance of the
bean, and to improve the colour and keeping qualities of the produce.
2nd . - The change that is brought about.
The changes that are brought about during the process of fermenta
tion are in the exact ratio of the time given for the process and the
manner in which the operation is carried out.
What is sought to be attained is, the complete removal of the
saccharine pulp which surrounds the seeds, for the purpose of allowing
32 FERMENTATION .
the seeds to dry in a short time and to get rid of an amount of super
fluous material which would only remain as a waste product, after
manufacture — it is in fact - dirt in the wrong place . Besides this, there
is the change in the bean to be brought about. Some people say one
thing takes place during fermentation, and some say another, ( ride
“ Essays " ) but nearly all agree that a change is necessary and the
different operators appear only to disagree as to the manner of bringing
about such a change. The operator has to change the colour of the
bean from a purple to a rich chocolate or cinnamon colour, and this
feat he manages to perform by the process of fermentation ; if he fails
to produce it, his produce is depreciated in value in proportion as he
fails to realize a fair and even sample of the rich chocolate or cinnamon
colour and the clean “ break ” which is so much appreciated .
There is yet another change that is brought about by fermentation,
and that is the hardening or toughening of the shell of the bean . This
is desirably from the point of view, that it preserves the interior of
the bean best when kept entire. If the shell of the bean is brittle the
bean suffers much during transport, and the interior parts are liable
to rapid deterioration in consequence.
My predecessor, Mr. Prestoe, held the opinion that the operation
of sweating or fermenting was simply one of " malting," that is to say,
one by which the starch of the bean was changed into sugar — by the
act of germination. I cannot find that he was followed in this theory
by any considerable strength of local opinion, and I am personally of
opinion that from germinated Cacao it is impossible to make a high class
product.
3rd. What causes the change ?
This is a much more difficult question to answer, and in fact can only
be answered after a full chemical analysis, which is yet a desideratum .
There appears to be no accurate data to hand, other than a partial
analysis of the late Professor McCarthy which appears in one of my
predecessor's reports. This appears to give the constituents of the
fresh bean, but we are lost in the endeavour to institute a comparison
between the fresh and the cured bean for the want of a full analysis.
If it could be ascertained what is the true difference, in quantity and
quality, between the constituents of the fresh and the cured beans, we
should then have a basis , from which we could work, in endeavouring to
understand what is taken away, changed or destroyed, by the process
* Given in Appendix .
FERMENTATION . 33
of fermentation, and what remains. At the present we are somewhat

at a loss to know the full constituents of the bean before the process
of curing is performed, and consequently have to work in the dark
so far as regards knowing what change actually takes place during the
operation . We know what is required, but how the change is effected
by the process of fermentation , we are unable to say. It is to be
regretted that such should be the case, as it is highly desirable, in the
interest of a country producing some 21,552,593 lbs. of Cacao per annum,
to know more, in fact to know all, about our methods of fermentation .
A reference to the published Essays on fermentation will show
that Dr. Chittenden, the author of the first Prize Essay, does not tell us
what change takes place during fermentation, he does not gives us the
amount of material lost or changed by the process, and does not describe
the chemical changes that take place, but tells us that unsweated
Cacao presents the same results on analysis as any other, " and yet to
commence with he tells us that " fermentation properly consists of
decomposition or slow combustion (oxidization) accompanied by the
formation of new products," but if unsweated and sweated Cacao present
the " same results on analysis ” it is difficult to understand how new
products can be formed by fermentation .
The second Essay does not attempt to tell us what fermentation
means at all, but merely describes a process, which results in the
accomplishment of the object in view .
The third Prize Essay tells us that fermentation is essentially
alcoholic, as does Dr. Chittenden. It tells us that heat “ acting on the
bean both through the pores of the pelicule and through the opening
of the top known as the “ Hile," vaporizes the aqueous elements and
developes the fatty substance which absorbs and retains the aroma of
the Cacao , ” but how this can be known to occur, without knowing
beforehand the original substances or principles contained in the un
fermented bean, I am at a loss to conceive.
Sugar is undoubtedly present, but how much ? What is the work
the sugar performs and how is it disposed of - how much is destroyed
by fermentation ? We know by analysis what products remain after
fermentation, but even these vary to an extraordinary degree. Dr.
Chittenden takes his analyses from the pages of “ Tropical Agriculture,”
by P. L. Simmonds, and Professor Church in " Food " gives another
analysis which, being expressed in different words, is hardly comparable
with that of P. L. Simmonds . “
* Given in Appendix in the first Prize Essay.
D
34 FERMENTATION .
Professor Church's analysis is as follows :

In 100 parts. In 1 lb.
Water 5.0 0-350 grs .
Albuminoids 17.0 2.315
Fat 51.0 8.070
Theobromine 1 :5 0.105
Cacao Red 3.0 0.210
Gum, &c. 10.9 1 :326
Cellulose and lignose 8.0 1.122
Mineral matter 3.6 0.252 >>
In his analysis Professor McCarthy found 18 and 28 per cent. of fatt

matter in two samples of fresh Cacao - but this apparently migh
represent an amount of 50 per cent. in the cured bean in consequenc
of the removal of moisture and the pulp and mucilage from the outsić
of the bean, which material goes to make up a large proportion
weight, and would reduce the percentage of fat in proportion to th
total weight of fresh bean .
An examination of beans fresh from the pod showed the following:

OZS .
Total weight from inside pod - No. 1 .. = 3.75

Weight of pulp and testa or skin of seed removed = 1.65
Kernel (clean )... = 1.75
3.40
Loss during operation •35
OZB.
Total weight from inside pod - No. 2 ... = 5.40

Weight of pulp and testa or skin of seed removed = 2 :40
Kernel ( clean )... = 2 : 40
4.80
Loss during operation .60
The pods were ripe pods , the entire contents were removed from t
shell after it was opened, and then carefully weighed. After weighii
the pulp, the testa or skin of the seed was removed and the waste al
cleaned bean again weighed as above. It will be seen that the pu
surrounding the bean, with the placenta, weighs nearly the same as t
cleaned kernel , and therefore if Mr. McCarthy's analysis was taken fri
the fresh bean, pulp included, it is no wonder that he did not get
higher percentage of fat than 18 and 28 per cent. Taking the avera
between these and allowing the difference of 100 per cent. for the weig
of waste on the fresh beans, we have 46 per cent. of fat in the fresh be
according to that analysis —which approaches that of an average sanj
of cured Cacao - as see Simmonds and Church's analysis. The differei
FERMENTATION . 35
in the percentage found by Mr. McCarthy in his two samples could be

easily accounted for by the moisture contained in the bean or in the
mucilage surrounding the bean, being greater in the one case than in
the other. It is fairly evident therefore that there is yet needed a large
amount of careful investigation before we can say that we have full
knowledge of the process of fermentation , and before we are able to
tell without fear of contradiction “ What causes the change.”
4th.- Why dissimilar methods produce similar results.
If we examine carefully through all the methods of sweating or
fermentation we shall find that although the manner of proceeding is
somewhat different, and the handling done in accordance with the ideas
of each individual , yet in the main there is a wonderful similarity.
We find one operator having this opinion and another having that
opinion, but after all their produce is about equal, the careful and
observant man as a rule getting the best quality in so far as he sets at
naught the " rule -of-thumb" methods which guide his competitors,
and takes his own judgment for his guide.
Practice will tell the planter the condition to which he must bring
his beans by fermentation before he attempts to dry them ; and until
brought to this particular condition they cannot be considered properly
cured or fermented, so as to furnish a well cured sample when finished
off. The condition into which the bean should be brought, is well known
to the generality of planters, and we find them making sections of the
beans to ascertain whether the fermentation has been regular and general
but to describe the particular condition is a hard thing to do. The best
I know of is that of Dr. Chittenden in his Essay, as follows : - “ At this
"stage if fermentation has been properly established, the cotyledons
“ are found separated and the vinous liquor of the pulp, which passes
through the membranous covering, occupies this space as well as the
“cavities between the convolutions." This it is which has so marked
a physiological influence and affects its flavour, the bean being, as
may be said, “ stewed in its own juice.” What the Doctor describes
I believe is literally true, and unless we can stew the bean in its own
juice, or absorb the constituents of the pulp through the membranous
covering in some manner, we shall never properly ferment Cacao or
change the character of the interior of the bean .
The above may be taken as the condition to which the bean is
brought by the moist fermentation of Cacao, but there are other
methods used which produce similar results. In his Essay Dr. Chittenden
D 2
36 FERMENTATION .
says—“ The conuquero puts up his beans to drain and forthwith exposes
“ them to the sun for say five or six hours, then heaped and packed up
they sweat afresh until the following day, when they get five or six
“ hours more sun and so on .” Again, " another contrivance of the small
grower is that of bagging the Cacao at the end of the day whilst still
“ hot from exposure to the sun and to sweat it during the night."
This is the practice of the Venezuelan planter, and is described by
His Excellency Sir William Robinson in his Pamphlet on the subject
of Cacao drying , issued in 1890.
The prime object of sweating or fermentation therefore appears
to be, to change the inside portion of the bean , by absorbing into it
products obtained from the fermenting and decomposing pulp, and where
this is not accomplished by any of the methods, the bean is classed as
unfermented and the product is of lower value .
It is readily understood by the experienced planter that some
varieties of Cacao take longer to cure than others, that some are more
bitter in flavour, and that some have a more tender skin than their neigh.
bours. The experienced planter knows at once that Criollo beans do
not require nearly as much time to “ stew in their own juice” as
Forastero , or Calabacillo, and he knows when each has reached the
proper stage of preparation needed previous to the final drying, but
the why and the wherefore of the variation of time in reaching this
stage is, I believe, as yet a matter of doubt even among the most able.
That the difference in the membranous texture of the outer covering of
the bean bears a material part in influencing the time necessary for
fermentation cannot however be doubted .
There is a point however in this question of fermentation which
appears to have been but little studied. The Cacao bean of course
possesses a living principle or embryo like all other seeds, and it is well
known that this principle can easily be destroyed, both by exposure to
dry air, and also by an excess of moisture . The greatest care is always
taken by cultivators to avoid an alternation of wet and dry periods
when putting seeds to grow, as it is known that this means sure death
to the embryo in the first stages of germination, for once a seed has
started to grow, a short dry period readily kills it, and so also does an
excess of moisture . In the so called fermentation of Cacao, we find the
operators adopting both the methods which are so destructive to the
vitality of seeds, for it is well known that the vitality of the embryo of
the Cacao must be completely destroyed, or it cannot become cured Cacao.
The Cacao bean however does not need fermentation for the purpose
FERMENTATION . 37
of destroying its vitality, for simple drying invariably destroys the germ
and seeds from many members of the same family are very difficult to
preserve for any length of time, owing to their vitality being easily
destroyed by contact with dry air. Therefore it is not simply the
death of the embryo which is needed, neither is it the " malting"
process which Mr. Prestoe considered was the basis of the process of
curing Cacao. To malt a seed, it must germinate and grow, and its
starch must be changed into sugar. It is not necessary however to allow
the Cacao bean to germinate at all to produce a good sample, for, though
a fair sample may be made of germinated beans if the process is not too
far advanced, it is much better that the bean should not germinate to
an extent which allows the radicle to pierce the testa of the seed,
though it is certain that Cacao may be much more quickly cured if
germination is allowed to take place previous to fermentation , as the
absorption by the passage or outlet pierced by the radicle would be
much more rapid than through the membranous covering of the seed,
and for the same reason drying would be more rapid, but the testa
being once pierced by the radicle, opens the way to the easy destruction
of the contents, by giving access to the spores of microscopic fungi.
One of the underlying principles of the different methods of
“ Fermentation ” is to create a certain amount of absorption through
the testa or skin of the bean, and this is secured by most methods.
Again a certain amount of heat is required ; some make use of sun
heat while others use the heat of fermentation induced in various
ways, while others again use both. To do this in a scientific way we
want to know accurately what we are using—we want to know the
composition of the pulp of the Cacao bean by means of analyses per
formed on each variety of Cacao-we want to know accurately also the
composition of the bean at the various stages of the fermenting process ,
and the different changes that it undergoes during the process, and
knowing the composition of the fresh bean, and ascertaining afterwards
from an average sample taken from the same bulk as the fresh bean, we
should be in a position to understand the laws which rule the pro
duction of a first -class sample of Cacao. Though the methods to obtain
good results are known by practice to every intelligent Cacao planter,
we are, I fear, at the present only guessing at the quantity and quality of
materials we work with to obtain these results. Scientific preparation
demands that more should be known, and unless we do know it, it
will be somewhat hopeless to attempt to improve upon our present
methods.
38 FERMENTATION .
Since writing the foregoing I happened to refer to Aublet's " Plantes

de la Guiane" and I find that he describes the process of fermenting the
produce of Theobroma Guianensis, Aubl., in the following words :
Pour conserver l'amande du Cacao, lorsque le fruit est dans sa
parfaite maturité, l'on rassemble auprès d'une cuve la récolte qu'on en
a faite ; on coupe par le travers la capsule en deux portions pour en
tirer toute la substance, et les amandes qu'elle contient, qu'on verse
ensemble dans le cuve . Cette substance sous vingt -quatre heures entre
en fermentation, ensuite se liquéfie et devient vineuse. On laisse les
amandes dans cette liqueur jusqu'à ce que leur membrane ait bruni et
qu'on reconnoisse que leur germe soit mort ; car la bonté du chocolat
dépend en partie de la maturité du fruit et du degré de fermentation
que l'amande a éprouvée par ce procédé. Les amandes se séparent
avec facilité de la substance qui les enveloppait, et sechant bientôt.
La liqueur vineuse est un peu acide et bonne à boire ; mise dans un
alambic et distillée, elle donne un esprit ardent, enflammable et d'un
bon goût .
Freely translated this will read :
To preserve the kernel of the Cacao, the fruit, when ripe, is cut in halves,
and the kernels it contains are thrown together into a vat. The substance sur
rounding the kernels ferments within twenty-four hours, then liquefies, and
becomes sour. The kernels are left in this liquor until the membranes have
become brown, and the germ is known to be dead, for the quality of chocolat
depends on the maturity of the fruit and on the degree of fermentation it has
undergone. The kernels or nibs separate easily from the substance surrounding
them and dry by degrees. The sour liquor is acid, but good to drink , and an
ardent spirit can be distilled from it which is highly inflammable, and of a nice
taste.
This shows that the principles of fermentation were understood long

years ago and that this species of Cacao (a very different plant from our
Theobroma Cacao, ) was used for producing chocolate. Aublet's work
was published in 1775 or 116 years ago. It is curious to compare the
conclusion come to by Dr. Chittenden of " stewing in its own juice,"
with the sentence : “ The kernels are left in this liquor until the mem
branes have become brown," and to note their similarity, and also my
remarks as to the death of the germ or the destruction of vitality
within the seed, both of which were conclusions come to, without
previous knowledge of Aublet's description of the process.
In connection with the question of Fermentation, there is the
important question of heat, although it is said by some that we cannot
add anything to the chemistry of Cacao, " I am inclined to believe that
a thorough enquiry into the subject would shew us what changes take
place during ferientation , and careful experiment combined with
chemical analysis would also show the degree of heat required for the
FERMENTATION . 39
proper fermentation of the bean. I am inclined to think from the few

experiments I have carried out that the heat which occurs during
fermentation is not so necessary for a proper preparation as is generally
believed . When ascertaining the weight of fresh pulp surrounding
the beans, it occurred to me to place the " skinned kernels ” and the
pulp that had been removed from them together and to allow them to
ferment. These were placed in a confined space, and allowed to stand
3 days or 72 hours, and the temperature was only that of the outside
air or a mean of 80° Fah . Fermentation had taken place and the smell
and taste of the liquor instead of being sour, was sweet and agreeable,
resembling very much the smell of the " wort” when the brewing of
ale is in progress, shewing plainly that diastase was present, probably
produced by the alteration of the albumenoid substances contained
in the pulp, or in the bean, or by the pulp and bean conjointly. The
office of diastase appears to be to effect the conversion of a portion of
the starch of the bean into dextrin, and thus to render it soluble, for
we know that the same process takes place in the malting of grain, but
the process here differs, from the fact that germination is not required
to take place but should be prevented, and it is here probably that
the pulp becomes useful and causes the absorption of diastase to produce
the required change. We can only say probably, because we have no
chemical analyses on which to base conclusions, and therefore at the
present we can only guess at what changes really take place during the
fermentation of Cacao. Malt differs from barley insomuch as it contains
more dextrin and soluble substances, but rather less starch, cellular
matter, and insoluble albumenoids and a smaller proportion of inor
ganic constituents ; and I should certainly expect to find that there is
a similar difference between the unfermented Cacao bean and the
fermented one.
The kernels of the beans which were placed with the pulp had
assumed the much desired colour (the cinnamon red) which it is the
ambition of the planter to produce, and it will be observed that they
did this in the short space of 72 hours or 3 days, when it is probable
that if they had been fermented with the skin on, it would have taken
three or four times as long to have secured the same colour to the
kernel of the bean and appears to demonstrate what constituent it is
that produces the colour. The bean however when thus treated is
liable to mould very rapidly, but the break and colour is all that could
be desired in a first- class Cacao. It would hardly be practicable to treat
Cacao on the same lines in large quantities, neither perhaps would it be
40 FERMENTATION .
desirable, but the experiment adds something to our knowledge of the

process which has so long been followed , which proves to be after all
a form of malting without germination, which is perhaps what was
meant by my predecessor Mr. Prestoe.
The skin or testa of the bean, after having allowed the changes
caused by fermentation to happen to the kernel through its membranous
texture, appears to be finally useful in preventing the inroads of
microscopic fungi or mould which would destroy the interior parts of
the bean, the toughened covering acting as an efficient preservative of
the interior, once it is properly cured.
Mr. Morris in his pamphlet mentions that the heat of fermentation
generally used is about 140 ° Fah . Our second prize essayist gives
the temperature most suitable as 110° Fah . in the first stage, raising
it by gº in the second stage. Dr. Chittenden gives 115° to 120° as the
requisite temperature, but it is doubtful on what basis or on what
experiments these temperatures have been determined , for it is certain
that the Thermometer is an instrument not in use on many of the best
estates in Trinidad .
A thorough set of experiments or even hourly readings of the
temperature which obtains in the sweating-house of a first -class estate
would be a valuable record, and would considerably add to our present
knowledge of the subject.
The practice of fermenting Cacao as at present conducted in most
places in Trinidad must be primarily considered a somewhat simple
and easy one, for we find it intrusted to persons only a little above the
lowest type of the uneducated . We find the amateur planter to be
( sometime a Doctor, at times a Chief Justice, often a Parson, frequently
a Lawyer, and not seldom an Engineer) turning out fair samples by
entirely trusting to the practice of this class of operator, but it is surely
time that we became acquainted with more scientific methods of working
and that we should bring the intelligence of the higher classes to bear
upon the subject, with the view of introducing a higher standard of
production.
CHAPTER VIII .
Washing , Drying, Polishing , Colouring and Dancing .
WASHING .
ASHING comes next, because if the planter wishes to wash
AV his Cacao, it must be done immediately after fermentation,

or not at all . The pulp cannot be removed by washing
before fermentation , and even after the decomposition caused by fer
mentation it is somewhat hard to remove.
The Ceylon planter has of late years adopted the washing process
of preparing Cacao as a cleaner and better method than the one which
generally obtains in Trinidad, and the high prices obtained by the
Ceylon produce is a guarantee that their Cacao is of first -class quality,
and market reports show their prices to range higher than the average
of Trinidad. However, brokers in London advise Trinidad growers
not to wash their Cacao , the argument being that what Ceylon gains
in price it loses in weight, and vice versá with the Trinidad grower .
Anyway for the present, washing does not find favour with the Trinidad
planter, although a few growers who have tried the process have not
been wholly unsuccessful.
Mr. Eugène Lange, junr ., in his article in the Agricultural Record
"for March, 1891 , clearly proved that, as carried out by him, the extra
trouble was not compensated for by the price obtained ; still, however,
from the tenor of his article he appears to be in favour of the washed
product.
Mr. Lange states in his letter that— “ Messrs.Wilson,Smithett & Co.
" advised him that it was not advisable to imitate Ceylon Cacao because
" the principal value of that class of Cacao resided in its pale cinnamon
" break, which, whether due to the soil or a different variety of Cacao,
66
* Trinidad planters could not imitate.”

Mr. Morris of Kew appears to favour the view that the kind of
Cacao mostly grown in Ceylon is of the Criollo variety. Dr. Trimen
in his report for 1890 gives the remarks made “ by a large grower who
42 WASHING .
“ has great opportunities for observation, that the Forastero varietie

which he chiefly cultivates , appear to be gradually changing their
“ characters and becoming more like the ' old Ceylon Red , the seed:
“ losing their dark colour on section and becoming pale or nearly
white. "
With regard to this supposition , I quite agree that such a change
is both possible and probable. In Grenada I believe such a change
to be common , and fairly apparent–i.e. the character of the Forasteri
imported from Trinidad soon disappears .
If the superiority of Ceylon Cacao is really due to a difference in
the variety of plant producing it—it will certainly be useless to insist
upon the method of washing as an improvement in the ordinary Trinidad
practice. If, however, (as has been asserted in the Ceylon papers ) the
Ceylon planter can prepare Forastero Cacao to equal that produced
by Criollo we should know as soon as possible the method he employs
to obtain that result.
Washed Cacao, however, dries much quicker than unwashed Cacao,
and this fact, together with artificial drying during a wet season, means
money saved to the planter, and is certainly a point not to be lost sight of
DRYING AND POLISHING.
In Trinidad the general method adopted for drying Cacao is by

exposure to the sun on large wooden floors or trays which can be rapidly
covered when rain is about to fall, either by running in the trays under
a fixed roof or having a movable roof over a fixed floor. The latter is
by far the most common form of drying-house used in Trinidad, though
both systems are in use, separate and combined.
The houses are erected of wood, the floor being made large or
small according to the size of the estate. The general run of floors
being about 40 to 50 feet long by 18 to 20 feet in width. The sliding
roofs are made extremely light , placed on wheels , and are covered with
either plain or corrugated galvanized iron. The roof runs on wheels
and is divided in the centre , and when the floor is exposed, each half
is received by a frame-work contrived at each end of the house . The
central portion under the flooring may be used for two sets of trays ,
one on each side, which are made to run on wheels or light iron rails ,
and so arranged as to be run out on frame -work at right angles to the
main frame-work of the building .
In these trays the Cacao is exposed to the sun, after being suf
ficiently fermented , but in the middle of the day it is the practice, if
DRYING AND POLISHING . : 43
very clear, to close the house for an hour or two, to prevent the excess
of heat from blistering the Cacao. The layer of beans is spread about
3 or 4 inches thick over the floor, and is turned frequently during the
time it is exposed to the sun.
The length of time taken up in drying depends in a great measure
upon the way in which it has been fermented. Cacao properly fer
mented dries much quicker than the partially feriented bean, and of
course much depends upon the weather. In rainy seasons, when there
is much damp present, there is considerable difficulty in making a good
sample of Cacao ; in fact, Cacao at such times is often greatly depreciated
in value, and sometimes becomes a total loss. Owing to this fact, it is
estimated that a very large sum would be annually saved to the country,
if a satisfactory method of artificial drying could be instituted. The
Central Agricultural Board of this Colony offered a prize of $200 for
the best Cacao drying apparatus at their Exhibition in October, 1890.
The full prize was not awarded but an honorarium of $40 each was
awarded to three designs which were of considerable merit.
The first was simply the adoption of the method of heating by hot
water, to the ordinary Cacao house. The second was a telescopic drying
apparatus adapted for either dry or wet weather, and the third was a
dryer having the means of keeping the beans constantly stirred, which
was very promising.
A full sized apparatus on the first principle has been affixed to
a Cacao house at San Salvador Estate, and has been found to work very
easily and satisfactorily but I have not learnt that anything has been
done in the way of advancing the usefulness of the second design. The
third design is said to have been much improved and is to be erected on
a scale which will allow of its chief points being fully demonstrated.
Sir William Robinson in his pamphlet on Cacao, previously referred
to, gave an account of the Ceylon drying house as furnished by Dr.
Trimen , Director of Botanic Gardens in that Colony, it is as follows :
“ The house is about twice as long as broad, built of brick, and is provided
with double doors, but with the exception of the openings for the ingress and
egress of the hot air, is hermetically sealed. The interior is fitted with a number
of upright frames into which slide, one above the other, the trays upon which the
beans
are spread ; these should be made of narrow pieces of split bamboo, not of
wire or coirnetting. The heating apparatus is outside in contact with one end
of the building, and consists of a large stove standing in a short tunnel which
opens into the house . At the other end of the þuilding, also outside, is a powerful
fan,fitted in another short tunnel ; this is worked by hand ( three or four Coolies
needed)
pas
, and by its rapid revolutions draws the air through the house. By
sing over and round the stove the air is dried and heated ; that which passes
44 DRYING AND POLISHING .
out is hot and damp. The flue of the stove passes under the floor of the house
and contributes to warm it. A drying house of this sort is very simple and its
cost only about 120 rupees ; it does its work perfectly, and nothing more elaborate
or costly is required .
It is found desirable here to dry Cacao as slowly as possible provided the
risk of mould be avoided. This appears in the interior of the beans in twelve
hours and on their outside in about twenty-four in wet weather if they are left
cold, but by passing them rapidly through the hot air house, so as to have them
hot when taken out, it is found that they will remain for a night or so in the
store without injury .
As the annual average number of rainy days in Ceylon is from 80 in dry
districts, to 328 in the wet, and Cocoa is grown only in the moist regions of the
Island we may assume that at least four - fifths of the Cocoa exported from that
Colony is dried artificially. The rainfall in the best Cocoa Districts of Trinidad
appears to average between 80 and 100 inches. The total yield as before stated
is 125,000 cwt. representing an enormous crop and an immense number of people
dependent upon it. Yet there are not half a dozen artificial drying houses, if as
many, in the whole Island .'
The method appears to be a very simple one, but the amount of

labour needed ( “ three or four coolies” ) appears to be large when com
pared with that required for the ordinary Trinidad methods.
It will be observed that the Ceylon • planter has found it desirable
to dry Cacao as “ slowly as possible, provided the risk of mould be
avoided ." This is an experience which has been known and recognized
for years by the Trinidad planter, and on the strength of this fact
alone it is doubtful whether any drying apparatus which will shorten
the time of the operation in any great degree will secure general adop
tion, as it is to be feared that the quality of the Cacao will suffer if
quickly dried, however, if it can be proved that the quality of the
produce does not suffer by a quick method of drying, the method will
and
undoubtedly be of the greatest service to the Cacao planter,
experiments in this direction are fully justified.
During the drying process Cacao has to be frequently turned, but
it appears to dry much better if kept in 3 or 4 inch layers than if spread
more thinly over the surface of the drying floors, as it does not allow
of so rapid an evaporation of the watery particles.
In curing Cacao some Trinidad managers make use of red-earth
for the purpose of getting rid of the mucilage of the bean in a more
expeditious and handy manner, and this method appears to be also in use
in Venezuela, Sir William Robinson describes the process as follows:
We now come to the picking and drying of Cocoa (Cojida y seca). Without
going into details it would appear that in Venezuela the greatest care is taken in
the matter of picking. The ground on which the pods are to be placed, after
having been cut from the tree by the pruner (desjarretadera) is carefully prepared
by the spreading of plantain leaves on it in proportion to the picking. Here
DRYING AND POLISHING . 45
Fomen are placed who cut the pod in order to get out the beans. The pods that
re overripe or black or picked by birds are separated, so that at this early stage
here is a careful classification of the fruit. When the Cocoa is taken from the
od or shelled , it is measured in baskets in order that the result of the picking
aay be known, It is then conveyed to the curing-house. If the picking is one
f several consecutive days it is dealt with as soon as possible, for it is not
dvisable to accumulate the pickings of more than two or three days. It is
referable to deal with one day's picking on the following day when the grains
re very thinly spread in the curing place in order that the damp and clammy
humido y enjuto) mucilage may be dried up. Great care is now taken not to
rack the kernel. It is raked with a wooden rake, and when it is being bagged
or the curing-house a wooden shovel is used.
It is absolutely necessary that on the first day of exposure the Cocoa (beans)
should have the full benefit of the sun.In the afternoon it is collected, heaped
up in a dry room and sheltered with sheets of wrapping cloth during the night.
On the day following it is dried in the morning and spread about in small lots.
Then the operators, with a fine sieve, sift over it a very small quantity of red
earth , which is well prepared and pounded in a mortar in anticipation. This
earth must be thoroughly pulverised and perfectly dry. An object is gained by
this operation, viz., to give to the Cocoa colour and gloss. Failing coloured earth ,
brick dust or red ochre is occasionally used , but red earth gives the better colour
and is more approved by the exporters. When this operation has been finished
the curing place is dried and left wide open in order that the Cocoa may be well
under the influence of the sun. It is given only six hours on this day, when it is
gathered up, placed in a dry room and well sheltered, in order that it may go
through the process of curing for the rest of the day and the whole of the night.
On the third day it is dried in the sun four hours. It is again re-gathered warm
into a heap, and it is sheltered in the room the rest of that day and the whole
night. On the fourth day the same process is repeated .
In case any dampness is observed amongst the beans they are exposed to the
sun during the morning of the fifth day. But they must not be exposed to too
great a heat because this would dry them too much, and besides the kernel might
crack and the weight might be diminished. After this stage has been reached
the Cocoa is placed in wooden trays (Bateas) and ventilated. The dry husks and
useless grains are got rid of, and it is then thoroughly clean and fit to send to the
market .
COLOURING AND DANCING.
It appears that in Venezuela the practice of using dry-earth is,

first, for the absorption of the mucilaginous portions of the covering of
>>
the beans, and secondly, to give the bean " colour and gloss."
In Trinidad various mixtures are used for colouring purposes and
for bringing out the polished appearance of the Cacao ; among them
may be mentioned starch, red ochre, roucou or annatto, and red earth
or clay. The red clay of San Antonio Estate, Trinidad, is described by
J. J. Bowrey, Esq. , F.I.C. , F.C.S., Analyst to the Jamaica Government,
as a very fine ferruginous clay free from organic matter ," and is said
to answer the purpose admirably. Dressing or colouring of Cacao is
however more practised by the merchants who purchase from the small
growers than by the well -to -do planter ; and Cacao of finest quality and
46 COLOURING AND DANCING .
1111
!
appearance can be made without the addition of any single particle
of extraneous matter .
In damp weather the partially dried bean is extremely liable to he
attacked by numerous microscopic fungi or moulds, and if these are
allowed to continue their growth undisturbed the coating of the bean
will be pierced and its contents spoiled . Various measures are adopted
in bad weather to disturb the growth of the mildew, and of these none
is more familiar than the process called “ Dancing.” The Cacao is
collected in heaps and the labourers are employed to tread the heap
with their naked feet.The friction caused by the treading removes
the mildew from the outside of the beans and polishes them at the
same time . Red earth is also used to “ minimise the risk of mildew ,"
and where “ dancing" is not convenient " hand rubbing" is resorted
to for the same purpose . '
The process of drying is continued until the Cacao is thoroughly
dry, and only an experienced hand can tell when this point is reached.
Quoting Mr. Morris— “ If well cured it should have the outer skin
“ hard , crisp and separating easily from the bean below. The latter
" should be firm , bright, and breaking easily on pressure."
It may be added that a plump bean of a light chocolate, or what
is known as a ' cinnamon " colour, is a mark of the highest quality of
Cacao,when combined with what is known as " a good break . "
It would appear to be held by some that heat is especially neces.
sary to harden the interior of the bean , and that to obtain this it is
found necessary to heap the beans, so as to make them undergo a second
and third fermentation at intervals during the drying process, and it is
contended that without this the bean will often refuse to assume that
plump appearance which is held in such high estimation by buyers.
PART III,
CHAPTER IX .
Botany and Nomenclature of Cacao with description of

Typical Forms, &C., &c.
HE name which Linnæus conferred upon this plant is derived

from the Greek Theos (god ) and Broma ( food ) or Food
for the gods."
There are several species of the genus, which is native of tropical
regions extending from Mexico to Brazil , and among the known species
are the following :—Theobroma bicolor, T. guianensis , T. sylvestris ,
T. ovatifolia , T. angustifolia - all said to be distinct from our culti
vated Theobroma cacao , L. , and its varieties , or the kind from which
the major quantity of the marketable product known as cacao
66
or
cocoa ” is derived .
The Mexicans give to Theobroma cacao the name of Cacaoquahuitl,
which has been in a great measure retained in the word chocolate.
The trees of Theobroma cacao grow in some places to forty feet in
height, the writer having seen them of this size in the province of
Veragua when travelling there in 1885 , but the usual height of the
Trinidad tree averages about fifteen or twenty feet, the lateral diameter
of its branches being about the same measurement . In Grenada ,
Tobago and St. Vincent the tree is generally of smaller size.
The Botanical characters of the genus are given in Grisebach's
Flora of the British West Indies, p . 91 , as follows :
ORDER STERCULIACEÆ . — TRIBE BUETTNERIEÆ .
Calyx 5 partite, colored . Petals 5 : limb cucullate, with a terminal, spathulate
appendage. Column 10-fid : fertile lobes bi-antheriferous: anthers bilocular. Style
5.fid . Fruit baccate, 5-celled : cells pulpy, polyspermous. Embryo exalbuminous:
cotyledons fleshy, corrugate. Trees; leaves entire; pedicelsfascicled or solitary, lateral.
The description of our species is given in the same work in similar
terms :
T. Cacao, L. -Leaves oblong, acuminate, glabrous, quite entire ; flowers fas

cicled ; pericarp ovid-oblong 10 costale. Calyx rose -colored ; segments lanceolate,
acuminate, exceeding the yellowish corolla ; pericarp yellow or reddish , leathery
6 to 8 inches long. Habitat, Trinidad - De Schach. Naturalized in Jamaica ! Dist.
St. Lucia ! Anderson. [Guiana and Brazil /]
48 BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE .
The various names under which the varieties of this tree ( Theo.
broma cacao) are known do not constitute species, but must be merely
considered as varieties of one original species. These varieties probably
owe their origin to seed variation, together with the influence of soil
and climate, and to enumerate the whole of their names would serve no
useful purpose .
Mr. Morris's classification was based upon the nomenclature of
some of the best estates in Trinidad and has stood the test of ten years'
criticism without serious contradiction, and may well be adopted for
Trinidad with slight modification . It must be admitted that the local
nomenclature of various districts differs much , one with another, and it
would therefore be a hopeless task to attempt to reconcile these names.
It is but patent to a close observer that there are certain characters of
cacao more strongly marked than others, as exemplified in the varieties
known as Criollo, Forastero and Calabacillo, though Mr. Morris contents
himself with forming them into two great classes , 66 Criollo and Foras.
tero," and he gives the Calabacillo as a variety only of Forastero.
Judging from a series of observations it would be better I am
inclined to think , to make three classes, placing Criollo as Class 1.,
Forastero as Class II. , and Calabacillo as Class III. , being the lowest
type of the species .
CLASS I. CRIOLLO . - OR FINE THIN - SKINNED VARIETIES.
1. Var. a . Amarillo.
2. b. Colorado.
CLASS II. FORASTERO. -OR THICK-SKINNED CACAO.
3. Var, a. Cundeamor verugosa amarillo.
4. b. colorado.
5. c. Ordinary amarillo.
6. d. colorado.
7. e . Amelonado amarillo .
8. f. colorado .
CLASS III. CALABACILLO.- -OR SMALL -PODDED , THICK ,
SMOOTH-SKINNED, FLAT - BEANED .
9. Var. a. Amarillo .
10. b . Colorado .
The finest cacao is by general consent admitted to be produced by

the Criollof variety, and this is assumed to be identical or similar in
* “ Cacao, How to grow and how to cure it. ” D. Morris, ( Jamaica, 1882.),
+ No. 1, Yellow Creole ; No. 2, Red Creole. Nos. 3 and 4, Cundeamor ,
derived from the Spanish name of the “ Cerasee" ( Momordica Charantia )which
possesses a peculiar warted appearance. Thus the name means Momordica -shaped,
rough red or yellow cacao. Nos. 7 and 8 are Amelonado ormelon -shaped, redand
yellow cacao. Calabacillo, calabash - shaped cacao, red and yellow .
I Mr. Morris appears to be of opinion that we have no longer the true Criollo ARE
variety in Trinidad , and Messrs. Sinclair & Ross, Ceylon Planters, also inform
that the Cacaowhich fetches the bestprices in Ceylon isdifferent toanything they
have seen in Trinidad,
BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE . 49
character to that called the Caracas variety . In the Consular Report

on the agricultural condition of Columbia, Consul Dickson mentions
that " the variety chiefly grown in Columbia is different to that of
" Venezuela , which produces Caracas cacao, the pods being much
"larger, and containing a greater number of beans , but as the number
of pods produced by a tree is greater, it is probable that on the
" whole the Venezuelan variety is the more productive of the two. The
quality of Columbian cacao is little, if at all, inferior to that of the
Venezuelan, but it is little known in commerce , as only an insignificant
" amount is exported, the supply scarcely satisfying the demand of the
country ."
What this variety spoken of by Consul Dickson may be, we have
no means of correctly ascertaining at present, but from the comparison
with the Caracas variety given by Mr. Dickson we might assume that
it was very near to, if not synonymous with our Forastero, and it is
to be noted that such a variety would also be “ Forastero ” or foreign
to the Caracas people .
Dr. Trimen of Ceylon, in his annual Report for 1890, falls into
the error of interpreting the word “ Criollo ” as being synonymous
with “ wild . "
It is well known , however, that the word is never used in this

sense in the West Indies, the true interpretation of the word " Creole "
being — one born in a country or one belonging to a country. With
European Anglicans the word “ Creole ” is generally supposed to have
reference to a mixture of races, but it is not used in that sense here.
For instance, a child born of white parents in any West Indian
Island,
or even on the mainland of Central and South America, is a
“ Creole," and just as much so as a black or coloured child would
be. In fact, “ Creole ” would be better translated as “ native ” than as
"wild " or coloured, a black or coloured child being just as much a
Creole as a white one or a mulatto. An English clergyman lately
travelling in Trinidad was much surprised to find that the word Creole
was used in this sense here, and even when shown that the use of the
word in his sense would often subject him to ridicule, still he said he
was not inclined to allow that the West Indian interpretation was
right, but felt inclined to follow his own. This gentleman was " writing
a book," and possibly we may hear more of his conservatism later on.
It is important that the sense in which the word “ Creole is used
should be fully understood as we have “ Criollo ” as our first variety
of Cacao.
50 BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURË.
If we interpret the words Criollo cacao as native cacao , and Foras

tero as foreign cacao, and Calabacillo cacao as calabash cacao, we shall
have a better definition of terms, and prevent further misapplication
of the word “ Criollo ." The Calabacillo is so named from its fruits
resembling those of the calabash tree ( Crescentia cujete, L.)
Dr. Trimen ( Annual Report, 1890,) remarks that these names
appear to have had their origin in Trinidad, and doubts whether the
first or Creole was “ever really a native plant there. " The mis.
understanding of the word Creole probably leads him to this conclusion,
for how could it be Native or Creole (Criollo ) if imported into Trini.
dad, unless its name was imported from South America with it, and if
so it should be known as the Criollo of South America and not simply
Criollo . The word Forastero is also applied on the Main to the same
cacao as in Trinidad, for they term it “ Trinitario " in contradis
tinction to their own Criollo, and certainly a plant of Trinidad would
be, Forastero or foreign, in Venezuela or any other part of Central
America, and therefore their Forastero being a foreign cacao and sup.
posed to have its origin in Trinidad , would properly be the Criollo of
Trinidad if the word was used in the correct sense .
It may be possible, however, that Criollo cacao is a native of both
countries, and that one has as good claim to it as another, but the
balance of probability appears to be that its origin can be rightly
traced to South America as indicated by Dr. Trimen , but there at
present appears no ground of proof in support of the proposition.
Dr. Trimen also repudiates the authenticity of the word Criollo as
attached to plants sent him from the Trinidad Botanic Gardens, and
turns them into Forastero apparently on account of their being dis
similar to “ the Old Ceylon Red cacao, also called Caracas " ( Report
for 1890) , but he allows a little later, that the Forastero sent from
Trinidad to Ceylon is in the opinion of a large grower gradually change
ing its character and“ becoming more like the Old Ceylon Red , ” orin
other words, is reverting to its original type through the influence of
the soil and climate in which it grows.
If therefore it is possible for Forastero to revert into the Caracas or
Criollo, this circumstance goes very far to sustain the supposition that
Forastero is merely a descendant of Criollo or that Criollo is a descendant
of Forastero : the change being brought about by circumstances of soil
and climate in each case . That such a change is quite possible and very
probable, is shewn by the fact that our best scientific botanists do not
* Dr. Chittenden in Agricultural Record , vol. ii., p. 107.
BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE , 51
find sufficient distinctive characters ( notwithstanding the differences in

the form , size and colour of fruit, leaf and tree) to make more than one
species of all our cultivated varieties , which as Dr. Trimen truly says,
probably trace their origin to a common wild parent.
Dr. de Verteuil tells us in his work on Trinidad, p. 242—“That
from its first settlement Trinidad exported Cacao, and that Cacao soon
gained a reputation on account of its delicious aroma. According to
Gumilla it was superior to that of Caracas and other places, so much so
that the crops were bought and paid for beforehand.”
“In the year 1727 however, a terrible epidemic spread in the Cacao
plantation ” and complete ruin followed .
“ Thirty years later, some Aragonese Capuchin Fathers were suc
66
cessful in their attempt to revive the culture of Cacao in the Island .
" They imported from the continent a'new species ( variety J.H.H. ) the
66
Cacao Forastero which, though giving a produce of inferior quality

" was nevertheless promptly propagated as being hardier, that is the
“ Cacao at present cultivated in the Island.”
The characteristics of the Criollo cacao are the thinness of its pod ,
its rounded beans and pale colour of the interior of the bean on section.
The leaves of the tree are small when compared with the Forastero
varieties, and the tree itself is not nearly so sturdy and thriving, and
does not produce such regular and abundant crops as the Forastero and
Calabacillo varieties. The skin of the bean is thinner, and the interior
has but a small proportion of that bitter flavour which is characteristic
of the unfermented bean of Forastero and especially that of Calabacillo.
The flattest beans are those produced by pods of the Calabacillo
type. The beans of Forastero are intermediate between these and the
rounded form of the Criollo.
1 2 3
CRIOLLO .
o
FORASTERO . CALABACILLO .
The above sketch of sections of the beans of the three typical

varieties, shows the difference in form which occurs, but still there
62 BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE.
will be found intermediate forms hardly reconcilable with any of the

figures, so that these are to be taken as representative only of the
typical varieties, with some latitude.
There are rounded beans * to be found in almost every pod towardsits

extremities, but the proportion of rounded beans in Calabacillo is very
small indeed, and the yield of this form of bean increases only as the cha
racter of the pods approaches the Criollo type. The Calabacillo , or that
class which gives small, rounded and smooth pods and flat beans, having a
bitter taste, is the lowest type of cacao that is grown, and requires the
greatest amount of skill during treatment to bring it into marketable
form , the process of fermenting it, taking more than double the time
required for Criollo. The tree however is the strongest grower and
the hardiest of all the varieties, and will thrive on poorer lands and on
lands on which it would be impossible to grow the finer kinds.
Trees of the Forastero type are also strong growers, and its
varieties are suitable for most lands in which cacao can reasonably be
expected to thrive. It approaches the Calabacillo type by the
Amelonado variety, both red and yellow , and certainly stands
as a large intermediate and somewhat variable type between Criollo
and Calabacillo . In general the Forastero type has a thick skin.
It approaches the Criollo in form , or runs into Criollo by its
variety Cundeamor verugosa, red and yellow , but trees may be found
bearing pods which are hardly to be distinguished from the Criollo on
the one side and the Calabacillo on the other, thus showing the
breadth of form covered by this kind.
It becomes a question , therefore, for the planter to ascertain the
character of his land with as much accuracy as possible before deciding
what variety of cacao he will plant. If very poor he can rely upon
Calabacillo only. If from moderately good to fairly rich, he should
rely upon the varieties of the Forastero type, but if rich and lasting
ground, only the best types of Criollo should be planted.
The generality of plantations are however of so mixed a character
that it is difficult to separate one kind from another, though there
cannot be any doubt that it would more than ra uble
pay for any ext tro
were the system of planting each type in separate fields faithfully
carried out .
* The word “ bean " is incorrect, but as it is the common form of expression
among our cacao planters, it is used as being better understood than any other.
BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE , 53
The contract system which prevails in Trinidad is probably more

to blame for the mixed character of the fields than anything else. The
contractor has perhaps in the first instance planted from seeds supplied
to him - all of one kind . In supplying first vacancies he uses stronger
and larger growing plants, and in places where the plant has refused
to grow after planting twice or thrice, he will (rather than lose count
of a tree) put in a plant of the strong -growing Calabacillo.
In length the leaves of Criollo vary from 5 to 12 inches and from
2 to 4 inches in breadth. Forastero cacao gives the largest leaves of
all. For the sake of accuracy I have made special measurements of
some growing in the Royal Botanic Gardens and find that they vary
from 9 to 21 inches in length , and range from 21 to 6 inches in width .
The leaves of the Calabacillo type are shorter and wider in com
parison with their length than either Criollo or Forastero.
It must be understood, however, that these measurements are taken
from extreme forms, and that the nearer the trees approach other
varieties, so also do the leaves vary in size and shape.
Cacao is said to have been cultivated largely in Jamaica some two
hundred years ago, but according to Long, in his History of Jamaica,
the plantations were destroyed by a “ blast.” Mr. Morris mentions in
his pamphlet that in Trinidad also the trees were visited by a blast
" sometime during the last century .” He interprets the word
“ blast” as a “ blow or hurricane," but the word in East Anglian
brogue is also given another meaning. “ Blast” is there synonymous
with “ blight,” and this is confirmed by Walker's Dictionary as
follows : (to blast — to strike with some sudden plague ). Either inter
pretation would however fully account for the destruction of planta
tions, especially when taken in conjunction with the high rate of duties
which was imposed on the article in England at about the same time.
Whatever the cause, the culivation of cacao in Jamaica received a
wonderful check , for in 1671 Long states there were as many as sixty
five walks in bearing ; while in 1882 it was only grown in isolated
instances until the value of the product was brought into notice
by Mr. Morris, when the cultivation became largely increased.
The introduction to Jamaica was probably effected by the Spaniards as
the English only came into possession of that island in 1655, or sixteen
years previous to the date mentioned . One species is mentioned by a
writer (Martius) as having been found in Jamaica ( Theobroma sylvestris)
but this would appear to need confirmation before being accepted as fact.
54 BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE .
There appears to be little doubt, however, that Theobroma cacao

is a native of the Northern territories of South America, and as the
character of the flora of the mainland is closely approached by that of
Trinidad it is quite possible that this species is indigenous to Trinidad ,
or was introduced at some remote time into the island.
Many writers agree that the flavour of cacao is dependent upon
the soil , and in this they are probably correct, but much must also
depend upon the surrounding conditions, viz. : moisture, exposure, and
temperature, in their respective order, and perhaps more is to be
attributed to these than to the soil, although all of them , it is freely
admitted, may have a direct influence on flavour and quality .
Spon's Encyclopædia gives Theobroma angustifolia , T. bicolor,
T. guyanensis , T. microcarpa , T. ovalifolia, T. speciosa, T. sylvestris
as producing commercial cacao, but we cannot learn upon what
authority .
When travelling in Central America in 1885, I found Theobroma
bicolor, Humboldt and Bonbland, indigenous in the province of Vera
gua, United States of Columbia. It was known as 66 tiger cacao,”
so named from the rank smell of the seeds. It is not in general
use by the inhabitants, though it is said to be used in some
manner by the Indians. It has also the name of “ Indian chocolate ”

and 66
Wariba,” the latter being the Indian name, and appears to
suggest some connection with the “ Wari ” or wild hog, probably one
of the peccaries (Dicotyles) which are known to emit from a gland on
the back a strong -smelling fluid.
It must be doubtful, therefore, if commercial cacao is produced by
T. bicolor, and such a supposition would also throw some doubt upon
any species producing commercial samples, other than our Theobroma
cacao , L. , though we do not think it impossible or improbable that
they should do so, and would rather infer that it would be possible by
bringing them into cultivation in Trinidad, to be able to add to the
variety of our produce and perhaps to improve it by hybridization
with other species.
The kernel of Theobroma guyanensis, Willd, is said by Don to be
white, and good eating when fresh . He also says that the seeds of T.
bicolor are mixed with the seed of the common cacao (presumably
T. cacao. )
According to Aublet's illustrations the pods of Theobroma guyan
ensis are small and oval, distinctly marked with five raised ribs, and
BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE . 55
the leaves are much like those of T. cacao but more cordate at the
base . The fruit of T. sylvestris, from a plate by the same author, is
small, smooth, yet still showing the five divisions of the pod by slight
depressions or lines on the outside at equal distances from each other.
The leaves are small and suggestive of the ordinary form borne by
“ Criollo .” The pod of T. bicolor, Humboldt, is woody in texture,
hard and dry, and specimens can be kept for any length of time. I
have a specimen, collected in 1885, in the herbarium of this departinent,

and also specimens of the leaves and flowers.
CHAPTER X.
Diseases, etc. - Insect pests , Fungi, Vegetable Parasites ,

Epiphytes , and other enemies.
ORTUNATELY for the cultivator the serious diseases which
attack the Cacao tree are few , except the plant is placed in
a totally unsuitable position . Perhaps the most common
disease is one which is known under the name of Canker. This cause
the stem and branches to dry in certain spots and along certain lines
and generally results in the death of the tree. The cause and the
remedy are not far to seek , for when trees are planted in good well
drained ground , little or no Canker is to be found among them , but in
poor surface soil , badly drained , with a hard subsoil in addition , Canker
is sure to appear and to kill out the trees, for it is really the enervated
condition of the trees which allows the attack to establish itself.
There is a so - called disease that attacks the pods in extremely dry
weather, caused by a fungus, the growth of which is primarily induced
by such conditions of the season and against which there does not
appear to be any remedy. This is known under the name of black - rot
on account of the pods turning black when affected by it.
The following extract from “ TRINIDAD” by the Honourable Dr.
de Verteuil, tends to show that this was the disease which formerly
spread such ruin through the Cacao districts. He says :
PAGE 431.- " The prosperity of the Colony had now reached its
culminating point, Cacao selling at a very high price. But in the year
1727, according to Gumilla, not a disease of the trees exactly, but a
blight attacking the pods under certain atmospheric influences, destroyed
the crops. The trees were apparently healthy , got flowers and young
fruit, but none came to maturity. Cacao cultivation being the only
resource of the Island, complete irretrievable ruin followed .”
PAGE 433. “ Governor Nanclares had for his successor Colonel
Don Pedro de la Moneda ( 1757 ). It was about this time that an
attempt was successfully made to re - introduce the Cacao plant. A nero
species (variety J. H. H.) the Cacao Forastero, which being hardier,
DISEASES, ETC. 57
although not yielding the same fine quality, succeeded beyond expectation .
It is this quality which is still cultivated in our days."
Therefore it appears that a thirty -years interval elapsed owing to
the attack of the “ blight" on the original Cacao, and the re-intro
duction . The word " re -introduce," however, would seem to imply
that the first Cacao was introduced and not indigenous to the Island.
Pods or fruit also turn black and drop in extremely wet weather,
probably owing to the fact that the balance of plant life is disturbed
by an unusual absorption of the water surrounding it, than from the
effect of any disease on the fruit itself.
The greatest enemies with which the Trinidad planter have to con
tend are the Parasol or Umbrella Ant ( Ecodoma Cephalotes ) and the
Cacao beetle Steirastoma histrionica, White — which latter has been
determined by R. McLachlan , Esq . , F.R.S. , from specimens forwarded
to us by John Guilbert, Esq. , of La Gloria Estate. Another species of
this genus Steirastoma depressa, L. , has been determined as seriously
affecting the trees cultivated in Grenada, and it is quite possible there
are several other species of Longicornia , a section of COLEOPTERA, or
beetles, which do damage to the trees. The attack is made by the beetle
laying its eggs either in the crevices of the bark, or under the bark in
holes made by the insect itself. The larvæ then work great damage to
the tree by cutting long channels through the soft wood of the stem to
such an extent that the slightest breeze breaks away the branch and
destroys it, and sometimes the depredation of the grub is so great as
to kill the tree outright. The only remedy which it appears can be
suggested, is the collection of the beetles when out on their hymeneal
tour, or when quietly resting in the crevices of the bark in the early
morning hours. The larvæ may sometimes be destroyed by probing
a stout wire into the hole where they have entered, thus impaling the
creature at its work. This is not always possible, but where the life
of a valuable tree is at stake, every endeavour should be made to arrest
the destructive progress of the larvæ or grub, which can generally be
found and destroyed without much injury to the tree, if a close and
careful examination is made . In cutting out a grub, care should be
taken to make the wound as small and as little jagged as possible, and
to cover it at once with the mixture recommended in a former part of
this work for covering the wounds made when pruning.
The Parasol Ant is truly the bête noir of the Cacao planter and
generally of the Agri-Horticultural community. Until one becomes
fully acquainted with the persistent depredations of this creature, it is
58 DISEASES, ETC.
hard to realize what an immense amount of damage is effected by it

alone. So much is this the case that the Legislative Council of Trinidad
lately passed an Ordinance which enables the Governor to declare
certain districts infected, and to enable planters to take means for their
destruction.
The destruction of this pest is extremely simple, but from the

persistence with which impregnated females seek the spots that con.
tained former nests, an equal persistence and careful watching is needed
to keep the ground clear. Where cultivation is conducted in proximity
to a large area of forest lands the matter becomes a very difficult one
indeed, for not only have the local nests to be destroyed but also those
in the distant woodlands, and especially the large nests, a raid from
which will frequently do irreparable damage to a plantation in a single
night. There are many methods in use for compassing their destruction,
the most common being that of digging out and puddling with water.
Some forms of destruction are suitable for one locality and some for
another. Where a constant watch for new nests is regularly kept, as
at the Royal Botanic Gardens, they do not become of any great size
before they are discovered, and a dose of coal tar poured into their nest
effectually disposes of them, once and for all, at that particular spot, as
they never again return where coal tar has once been applied . Other
nests can best be attacked by useing the fumes of sulphur driven in by
bellows or fan . A handy machine lately introduced, known as the
“ Asphyxiator,” can be used with sulphur or any other chemical pro
ducing deadly fumes . These ants will, when on raid from a large nest,
make a track 10 or 12 inches wide ( from which every portion of herbage
is carefully cut away) for the purpose of carrying home to the nest the
leaves they cut from the trees, and several large trees are often com
pletely cleared of leaves and flowers in the space of a single night.
Each ant is able to carry a piece of leaf half an inch in diameter, and
hold it in its mandibles above its head, resembling when on the march
the sails of a fleet of liliputian schooners dipping and swaying to the
wind. Belt, in the Naturalist in Nicaragua, studied these insects and
came to the conclusion that the leaf is not used primarily for food, but
is chewed up, and placed in a position where the mycelium of certain
fungi at once attack it, and form food for the ants and their larvæ.
Certain it is, that a peculiar mycelium is found permeating the inside
of every nest, and gives to it a peculiar odour of its own, which once
recognized, is again easily distinguished.
There are several species of aphides or plant lice also which attack
DISEASES, ETC. 59
acao , but unless the plant is in bad health from some other cause
hey seldom do any great harm, especially if cleanliness and order are
ale on the plantation. With these are found an attendant species of
at, as occurs on many other species of plants, but the ant in this case
$ practically harmless.
Wood ants also infest trees on which there is any decayed wood,
r wood in process of decay, but the remedy for these attacks is obviously
he removal of all dead or drying wood, which should never be allowed
o accumulate on a well ordered plantation.
Among the vegetable parasites there are one or two species of
Loranthaceae, which affect Cacao. These are mistletoe-like plants which
tre true parasites and do considerable harm to the trees, and should
be at once removed with a sharp cutting instrument as soon as seen.
I the branch on which they are affixed can be spared, it should also
be removed, as it is liable to reproduce the plant from the seat of union
between the parasite and the tree.
There are also one or two species of Cuscuta or “ Dodder ” which
cause considerable damage. These plants are known as “ God Bush "
in several of the West Indian Islands. In a well managed plantation
they are at once removed from the trees in their younger stage, for if
allowed to spread they weaken and eventually destroy the trees they
affect .
There are a large number of so-called " parasites or orchids” which

are found to grow on the Cacao trees. Among these may be mentioned
Tillandisa Peperomia, Anthurium Philodendron, Margrævia Philo
dendron, and several species of true orchids. The word Orchids or
66
Parasites” is applied indiscriminately in Trinidad to any kind of

parasitical or epiphytical growth which appears on the Cacao tree.
The true parasite, such as Loranthus and Cuscuta, evidently weakens
the tree by the abstraction of its juices, but the epiphytical growths do
not take any nourishment from the tree itself, but obtain their nourish
ment direct from the atmosphere and from particles of food carried to
their roots by the rain that falls, only affixing themselves to the tree
as a holding place or suitable position for carrying on their life's work .
It is doubtful therefore if they do any direct harm to the tree, but
nevertheless, a plantation having trees covered with such growth cannot
be said to be under good cultivation, and it is certainly conducive to
the maintenance of the health of the tree that they should be regularly
removed .
60 DISEASES, ETC.
With regard to mosses and several of the lower forms of crypto

gamic life which infest the trunks and branches of Cacao trees, it is
sometimes argued that they are beneficial, others however declare it
best to remove them. One reason given is, that if they are removed,
the process of removal will invariably destroy numbers of the flower
buds which are produced on the trunk and branches. That this argu
ment is sufficient I much doubt and I should be more inclined to main
tain the trunk and branches (which are the fruit producing portion ) in
as clean a state as possible , taking care however , to enjoin the workmen
to make the removal of these growths with the greatest care possible
so as not to injure the “ cushion ” or node from whence the flowers are
produced .
The squirrel is a great enemy to the Cacao planter, and it is always
found that he selects the best class of pods, not alone on account of the
thinness of their pods, but also owing to the greater amount of sweetness
that the pulp of the Criollo varieties possess. It is for this reason that
in some instances the Forastero or thick podded varieties are planted
instead of the finer sorts, and the same argument applies to the damages
done by rats and mice, which are plentiful in some districts. The rat
like oppossum, known locally as “ Manicou Gros Yeux , ” is similarly
credited with doing much damage to Cacao, and is invariably destroyed
when found, on that account .
CHAPTER XI .
Export of Cacao. – Value of Estates . - Buildings required.

Labour , & c .
EXPORT OF CACAO.
HE exports of Cacao from Trinidad have been gradually

increasing for many years, and it is probable that the exports
for the present year will exceed in value those of previous
years, notwithstanding the fact that an almost unprecedented period of
drought has been experienced during the first six months of the year,
which has somewhat lessened the crop.
The following table shews the exports as taken from the Customs
returns, and as recorded in the Annual Reports of the Royal Botanic
Gardens for the past four (4) years :
1887 – Cacao valued @ ...
£ 413,179
1888 611,876
1889 >> 478,340
1890 603,506
...
Or a total of £ 2,106,901
for four years export of Cacao alone.
It will be seen from this what an important article of commerce
this product is, and as the cultivation is spreading in nearly every
district of the Island it is probable that in a few years' time the value
of the export of Cacao will exceed that of all other vegetable products
combined. With such a fact before them, it is especially incumbent on
the Cacao planters of Trinidad to seek every means to improve their
culture so as to maintain a superior article and to be first in the markets
ofthe world for their special product. The Ceylon planter has succeeded
wonderfully well in obtaining the highest price in the market, but it is
questionable whether his Trinidad confrère does not obtain from his
Forastero trees, a better return per acre, than his Ceylon brother does.
From Dr. Trimen’s Report it appears almost certain that the quality of the
bean as imported from Trinidad is improved by Ceylon culture. Now
with us the better the bean the more tender the tree, and the less the crop
we obtain, and it is possible that, the decrease in yield and vitality of
the tree, will also follow the improvement of the bean in Ceylon,
62 VALUE OF ESTATES.
The intending planter can obtain Crown lands from the Govern.
ment of Trinidad on petition at the upset price of one pound sterling
per acre, exclusive of survey and other fees, but all lands are subjected
to public competition before the grant is made, so that if two applicants
require the same ground, it is finally obtained by the one who has the
longest purse, or who is willing to pay more than his competitor, above
the upset price .
There are in the usual course of business small and large estates
constantly passing through the market, and the price of these vary
according to the locality in which they are situated, and the quality of
the land. The value of an estate is usually estimated at per tree, or
per 1,000 trees and not at per acre, and what might be worth in some
districts but 60 cents per tree, would in other and celebrated districts
be worth as much as $2 or 8/4d. per tree.
The best course for the intending investor is to make himself
acquainted with the several districts and await his opportunity , residing
in the Colony and adding to his experience in the meantime. In
Trinidad as everywhere else, there are those present who will not hesitate
to recommend estates to buyers simply for the commission they could
get from the seller, and there are others again who will accompany an
intending buyer in a friendly way to visit an estate and afterwards
attempt to recover an exorbitant fee for their services . Let the in
vestor beware of such or he will probably be landed in a similar plight
to that of poor “ Mark Tapley,” but it is questionable whether even he,
would have considered there was any credit in being jolly ” under such
circumstances. Good estates have to be waited for and are always
readily disposed of, so that the buyer should quickly make up his mind
when he sees " a thing going,” which is fairly in accord with his ideas.
The yield per acre or the yield per tree of a Cacao estate is the
best test of its value, especially if reliable reference can be made by
the seller to the crop harvested for two or three preceding years.
Cacao trees begins to bear in the third or fourth years, and sometimes
precocious trees will even begin earlier than this, but it is not well to
let them produce a crop, as bearing will infallibly retard their growth.
Mr. Morris writes :
At the sixth and on their ninth years, the Cacao tree should be in fair bearing,
but they seldom reach their prime before their twelfth or fifteenth year. After
this period where the trees have been carefully established and well cultivated,
a Cacao estate is a comparatively permanent investment, and it may be expected
to continue in bearing and yield remunerative returns for some fifty, eighty or
a hundred years. In fact , if old and exhausted trees are regularly and system
atically replaced or “ supplied ” there is practically no limit to the duration of a
Cacao estate.
VALUE OF ESTATES. 63
The yield per tree will be seen to depend entirely upon the quality
of the land, the size of the tree and various other attendant circumstances,
but is generally considered that a yield of 1.6 lbs. per tree which will
be 10 bags of 165 lbs. each to 1,000 trees, is a first -class yield, 5 bags
per 1,000 trees or 0.8lbs. per tree would be considered a poor yield.
Taking our trees to be planted at 15 feet apart, there will be
193 trees per acre nominally (of course it is never possible to maintain
this regularity, on account of roads, drains, &c., but for the sake of
method in the estimate we accept this number) and the yield per acre
will be 193 x 1.6 lbs. = 308•8 lbs. which, valued at 80/- per cwt., will
produce the sum of £11 per acre . Calculating the trees at 12 feet
spart we get 302 to the acre, and these at 1.5 lbs. per tree, the value
per acre would be £ 16 3 .
The working expenses of plantation may be calculated at £3 to
£5 per acre annually, more or less according to circumstances, facilities
for obtaining labour, easy transit of produce, &c., &c.
It is calculated that an estate can be established by the contract
system at a cost of about £12 to £15 per acre, exclusive of buildings.
BUILDINGS REQUIRED.
The buildings required on a Cacao estate are few .
Where the proprietor is resident — and he always will be if he wishes
his estate to pay — there must be a comfortable residence, and therefore
the expenditure under this head cannot be laid down, but must be left
to the individual taste of the planter and the extent of his means.
The most important buildings on a Cacao estate are the drying
houses and sweating boxes. These are generally built all in one. The
sweating boxes being placed under the drying floors, but sometimes they
are separated, and we believe that this latter course is the best, as during
the process of fermentation much moisture is given off by the bean and
this cannot be conducive to the quick drying on the floors above.
The cost of houses for an estate of 300 acres would probably be
from £200 to £250 or more if substantial buildings are erected and
artificial drying be resorted to, but this expenditure is not neces
sary on an estate made from Virgin Forest, as the bearing will be
gradually increasing from year to year, and the necessary drying space
should be extended so as to keep pace with the number of trees coming
into bearing, but it is always better to have ample drying space, than
to be for one moment cramped for room, for much is lost and nothing
gained by such a policy, as there is a liability to spoil produce when
there is not sufficient room in the drying houses.
64 BUILDINGS REQUIRED. — LABOUR , ETC.
It is generally considered that 80 square feet of drying surface is

sufficient space for drying the produce of 1,000 trees, taking the crop
of the year from beginning to end. If the planter therefore can find
out what it will cost him to provide this area, he can easily estimate
for larger surfaces, the cost of building entirely depending upon the
district in which the plantation is situated.
Next to the drying house a good storeroom and office should be
provided and a proper range of labourers' barracks may be required
where labour has to be brought from a distance.
LABOUR , ETC.
It will be found much better to attach labour to an estate by the

allowance of house room, provision ground or other privilege, than to
employ casual labour as it presents itself, as there is much more interest
taken in the work when the labourer in a measure belongs to the
estate," and looks upon it as his home .
Skilled labour is highly requisite on a Cacao estate, i.e. the labourer
niust be accustomed to the work, and the higher the class of labourer
employed the better will the estate be worked. Such labour is however
not always obtainable, but it is certainly the best when it can be had.
We are not here speaking of the manager, foreman or ganger, but of
the field hands for the purpose of carrying on the general work of the
plantation. With managers and foreman generally, it is evidently to
the interest of the proprietor to employ only those who take an in
telligent interest in the work they have to carry out, and who take
pride in preparing a quality of produce which shall always bear the
highest stamp. With such men careful experiments may be carried on,
which will lead to improvement and economy when compared with the
methods now in use. When, however, you have men who assert that
66
they know how to do it” it is very doubtful if much progress will
ever be made, as they are satisfied they have reached the height of all
knowledge required and will be satisfied to " jog along ” year after year
on the same lines .
The cost of labour is an item always enquired about by a new comer,
but he will understand that this must vary with the district and only
a general idea can be given in a work of this kind.
The wages on a Cacao estate varies, according to the work performed
by the labourer, from 25c. to 60c. per day, and much of the work is
done by task , a system which is much preferred by the labourer.
CHAPTER XII.
Chemical Composition.- Manufacture of Chocolate .

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION .
HE chemical composition of the Cacao bean is shewn by the

following Table :
PERCENTAGE ANALYSES OF CACAO.

FROM SIMMONDS' “ TROPICAL AGRICULTURE."
52.00 51.00 50.00 56.00 44.00 45.00 49000 42.67 Analyses

.
50.00
Fat(Cacao Butter) .. 53.10 36.97
...
...
Albumenoid 18.70 17.00 13.00 18.00 50.00

Substances
...
Albumen 20.00 20.00 20:00

18:00
Fibrin ...
30 20 20.00 ... 12:21 18.00

Gluten
4:14 *60
Extractive matter
..
Sugar
10.91 0.55 10'00 700 14.00 18:00 19:03 10.00
Starch
Gum 7.75 0'69 22.00 6.00 6.00 .. 6.40 8.00
0 90 22.00
( Lignin
30.00 2.00 13.00 6.08 5.95
Cellulose
Woody fibre
Colouring matter OOO 2:01
...
6'61 traces
4.00
2:00
...
13: 3:05 5.00 3.96 2.60

Water Joe 5.20 6:01 10.00 5.00 5.00 11.00 5.06 6.30 5.98 6:00
Theobromine ... 0:56 2.00 2:00 2:00 1:50 2:00 1:02 1.50 0.90 1.50
.
Salts 3.00 4.00 4.00 200 4.00

Ash ... ... ... 3:05 .. 2.90 3.60
(Humic Acid ... 7.25 ...
Port unac
...
1043 102 ... 3:50 9.14 ... 0:30

counted for
P. L. Simmonds remarks that the results are not very flattering to

chemical science, the analyses being of the most contradictory character
and containing discrepancies which cannot be at all reconciled with
each other ,and he reduces them as far as he is able to a kind of average
table of his own, which is quoted by Dr. Chittenden in his Essay, and
formerly referred to at page 33 ,
66 CHEMICAL COMPOSITION .
Professor Church's analysis of cured Cacao is quoted in the Cha

on Fermentation , when pointing 'out the want of a reliable analysi
the fresh bean and pulp of the Cacao pod . Theobromine, acco cording
the Professor, “ is the active principle of Cacao ; and the taste and aro
are mainly due to an essential oil and to Tannin ," and he deems i
milder and less stimulating beverage than tea or coffee, but I do
much , however, if Cacao of the class he refers to was that which obtaii
for it the name of " Theobroma, or “ Food for the Gods."
The manufacture of Cacao as now carried out in Europe a
America presents a great contrast to the primitive method of preparati
which method is found still to exist in the countries producing it.
The Professor again in “ Food ” gives four forms of preparation
which starch, flour, sugar, vanilla, bitter almonds , cinnamon and oth
species are used as adulterants . Some to form “ Soluble Cacao ,' SOI
“ Chocolate,” some “ Flake or Rock Cacao” and some “ Pressed Caca

-and in most of which a portion of the original fat of the bean has be
removed .
He says :: that most of the Cacao consumed in Europe is prepare
for use by admixture with other substances or by removing part of ti
fat or ' Cacao -butter .' Cacao -nibs, if simply ground , would yield a rii
but heavy food but not a beverage. It may indeed be shown the
100 parts of Cacao -nibs contain heat-givers equivalent to 132 parts (
starch , while the flesh -formers present, amount to no less than 17 part:
the ratio of the latter being as 1 to 8. One pound of Cacao -nibs migh
in fact produce as much as 24 oz . of the dry nitrogenous substance o
muscle .
This shows that one pound of Cacao -nibs is more than equal in flesh
forming constituents to one pound of lean mutton chop , which is esti
mated to contain but 2 oz. of the dry nitrogenous substance of muscle
or flesh ; but we can't eat a pound of Cacao-nibs at any one time, and
it is seldom that more than į oz. is used for a breakfast cupful and ever
to this is added a certain proportion of milk and sugar. The value of
the milk as a food constituent being as i oz . of the dry nitrogenous
substance of muscle and flesh to the lb. So that Professor Church's
remark that Cacao -nibs would yield a heavy food , but not a beverage,
is somewhat wide of the mark , though at the same time his authority
on the matter is highly respected.
If eaten as " nibs" it would certainly be a heavy food , for it would
contain 5 per cent. of fat in the first place and 17 per cent. of albumenoids,
besides other constituents, but when we take of this substance, ground,
CHEMICAL COMPOSITION . 67
a part equal to za part of a pound, adding 4 ozs. boiling water and 4 ozs.
milk we have according to the Professor's own analysis, the sum of
13 drams + 3 drams or a total of 43 drams of flesh - forming constituents
in a cup of Cacao made from the ground nibs unadulterated, of which
3 drams are supplied by the added milk , or a total value of (* ) one-tenth
of a pound of mutton chop. What proportion of nutriment is contained
in a cup of Cacao made from the various preparations, and after the
extraction of the fat, we are not able to gather, but we should estimate
it at a very much lower figure.
That Cacao-nibs, if simply ground, will yield a beverage of excellent
quality when properly prepared there can be no doubt, though perhaps
not one calculated to suit all tastes, but once the palate is “ educated ” to
the flavour, it is preferred to any of the adulterated forms or preparations.
MANUFACTURE OF CHOCOLATE.
The methods generally employed in Trinidad in manufacturing
Chocolate from the Cacao bean are extremely simple and the same in
principle as those practised throughout Cacao growing countries, but
there are a few persons who produce an article little inferior in point
of manufacture to that produced in Europe.
The bean after being cured and dried in a manner fit for sale can
be used at anytime for manufacturing into chocolate. The first process
is to roast the beans in a cylinder over a slow fire, until they assume
a fine brown colour, but not to heat them to such a degree as to burn
them, or to destroy the essential oil which they contain, for Cacao-beans
once burnt or scorched can never make a cup of first- class chocolate.
When browned sufficiently the testa easily separates from the inner
portion of the seed and can be cracked off and fanned away as soon as
the beans are cool enough to handle.
The “ nibs ” are then put upon a clean piece of free stone about
2 feet square, perfectly smooth, another piece of the same material,
somewhat rounded, being used as a grinder. Rubbed for some little time,
and frequently turned with a small spatula , the beans are reduced to
a paste, the fat they contain assisting the operation , but the grinding
must be continued until the paste becomes perfectly smooth and even .
If sweet chocolate is desired to be made sugar should be added ; if
" unsweetened” nothing more has to be done but to make the paste up
into such sizes of blocks or rolls as may suit the fancy of the manu
facturer or the convenience of the housewife. These balls, rolls, or
blocks are then allowed to set or harden, which they will do in a few
hours' time, after which they can be transported any distance,
68 MANUFACTURE OF CHOCOLATE .
Manufactured in this way we produce the raw or virgin chocolate, u

contaminated by any adulterations, and from which a cup of Cacao can
made which is fit “ Food for the Gods." No adulterations are required, b
still to suit some palates, vanilla, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, and vario
spices may be added , but these combinations are in our estimation i
equal to the flavour of the virgin chocolate, provided the volatile esse
tial oil has not been destroyed during the process of roasting, during whi
process it appears to be developed or brought to the surface of the bes
A cup of most delicious chocolate can be made from the artic
described above in about three minutes, in the following manner :

Grate about half an ounce of ball chocolate into an enamelled sauc
pan, adding sufficient boiling water to cover it ; let it simmer for ti
or three minutes, add sugar and milk to taste and serve. If preferr
equal parts of milk and water may be used. The substance remov
from the bean as fat by the more elaborate methods in which Cacao
prepared is known as “ Cacao -butter . ” This is a valuable concre
fat melting at 100° Fahrenheit which is expressed from the paste of t]
Cacao-bean by pressure while subject to steam heat. On cooling
becomes an opaque dry white substance , somewhat brittle and shov
a waxy fracture. It has a pleasant chocolate odour and a bland flavou
and is much used for pharmaceutical preparations . It is chiefly remarl
able for having but little tendency to rancidity.
From the fact that clean fats have a remarkable affinity for th
volatile or essential oils, it appears probable that a large proportion
the aroma of chocolate is lost by the removal of the Cacao-butter, an
this fact would alone account for the superiority of the flavour of th:
Cacao in which the natural fat is all present, over that from which
has been removed. Which way the manufacturer must make it, th
public must say, but the less the manufacturer adulterates a pure articl
the better as a rule will he please the public and the better are hi
prospects for the future of his business .
As there is much yet to be learnt in the scientific treatment of th
Cacao tree and its bean, and I believe also in the chemistry of the bean
so also is there room for improvement in the manufacture of the produci
into the most suitable form for consumption. Let us hope that witl
the greater production that is now foreseen , the preparation will im
prove, and the demand increase, to the benefit of the grower, tht
manufacturer and the consumer, and let us wish continued prosperity
to this most important industry.
J. H. H.
APPENDIX.
ESSAYS ON THE FERMENTATION OF COCOA.
FIRST PRIZE ESSAY - By J. F. CHITTENDEN, Esq ., M.R.C.S., Eng .
THE fermentation of cocoa , or sweating as it is often termed, is very properly

considered as an essential part of its preparation for the manufacturer's use. The
principal objects to be obtained may be set down as the development of flavour,
jhe suppression of thebitter principle, so marked in the Trinidad varieties, and a
certain allotropic modification of its substance (i.e. , the cotyledons) not easily
recognised by chemical analysis.
Fermentation properly consists of decomposition or slow combustion (oxidi.
sation) accompanied by the formation of new products ; in the case of cocoa this
spontaneous, and must by no means be confounded with the scientific methods
known to maltsters, distillers, &c., in the process here described the object being
not to deal with the products, but to affect the cocoa bean by long continued
heat, moisture, &c. , and, furthermore, to remove the adherent pulp. This
sweating must not be regarded either as a simple process; on the contrary ,it
includes, more or less, the secondary fermentations, such as the lactous, butyric,
mucous and putrefactive or eremacausis.
The cocoa pulp to be fermented is a viscous gummy mass not unlike the
substance of the custard -apple or soursop, and contains an abundance of fruit
sugar, cellulose and carbo-hydrates necessary to support combustion or fermenta
tion ; it also possesses, as many other fruits do , within itself a natural diastase
and yeast ferment; having, therefore, been in contact with atmospheric air and
then closed up in a chamber, packed with plantain leaves, &c. , the alcoholic
fermentation is readily established,the self-contained natural ferments, as already
described, being soon supplemented by countless bacteriafromtheair.
If the mode of proceeding in sweating or fermenting cocoa was the same
throughout, it might be easily described. Such is, however, very far from being
the case .The great difficulty is that the Trinidad varieties (termed on the
Spanish Main " Trinitario") are so very differentin character, each sub -variety
or hybrid requiring a different period of fermentation,” that the planter is at his
wit's end to make his batch turn out all alike, and nearly every one has, there
fore, a way of his own.
On the best estates in Venezuela the Criollo alone is planted, but as it was
found not to bear so well as the “ Trinitario,” our seed some time ago was exten
sively planted along the Guiria Coast, butafter a short experience they concluded
thatthechoicer and higher priced cocoa paid best, and I have myself seen planters
in that district rooting out our cocoa trees from their plantations.
The Criollo is much better flavoured than any other and requires but three
days' fermentation. This choice kind has been extensively planted in Trinidad,
but surrounded with inferior plants (and perhaps on inferior soil) it has become
hybridised and assimilated to the native sorts, and has not maintained its
supremacy ; so, we must ever look to the mixture of Criollo, Forastero and
Calabacillo, &c., with which we are blessed, only taking especial care in picking
o APPENDIX .
to exclude pasi or flat beans and unripe pods. If our varieties were well marke
and we determined the exact temperature and the precise number of days tha
each kind wanted, then, as many persons advocate, it would be well to separat
them in the field, but practical men know better than to attempt this , or,a
least, on any large scale, and they are contented to deal with them as a whole
The generalpractice in fermentation varies from that of the small conuquero
whose object is to realise quickly and to get the utmost weight possible , to th
elaborate plan of Mr. F. Strickland extending over fifteen days. The conuquer
puts up his beans to drain and forthwith exposes them to the sun for, say, five o
six hours, then heaped and packed up, they sweat afresh until the following day
when they get five or six hours more sun and so on. He turns out a fair looking
bean sometimes, and pays especial attention to its red appearance, inasmuch a
he knows that the light red will always bring another dollar per fanega in the
local market ; this is true, and is probably owing to the fact of its weighing
lighter and being cleaner, due to the more careful rubbing and removal of the
gummy coating. In America this red cocoa is especially approved , and quite
regardless of the interior condition of the bean ; this may be of a very dark brick
dust colour varying, according to the quality, to purple or yellow . Another
contrivance of the small grower is that of bagging the cocoa at end of day, whilst
still hot from exposure to the sun, and so to sweat it during the night ; this little
scheme was learned from the Venezuelans, and is often practised in Port -of -Spain
by cocoa dealers to improve unfermented cocoa.
Next we trace the system of the more pretentious planter who boasts of
elaborate sweating and drying houses ; their fermentation varies from five to
eight days, the process, however, is carried on “ without the least reference to
the thermometer " in close chambers, and it is certain that in many cases they
heat the cocoa upto a stage at which alcoholic fermentation could not go on, say
160°. ? J.H.H. What follows then is destruction of the diastase and other fer
ments, and a lower type of fermentation or eremacausis (as in manure) the cocoa
becoming eventually fusty and sour. The planter working on such a scale should
“ break bulk ," as the tobacco planters term it, when it reaches 140° or earlier.
Treat it as you may, however, fermentation at high temperatures cannot go
on beyond eightdays, for the reason that the fuel , i.e., the sugar, is all exhausted,
if not the ferments , and although it may be possible to start it afresh by adding
some invert and a little dried yeast, in the same way as tobacco curers often
referment fusty tobacco, yet, most men will say “ cui bono.” At the best it will
contain a large proportion of unsatisfactory beans which on section will shew
their inferiority, and, " pota bene," section is the test employed by all brokers
now in examining samples of high class cocoa . At this stage of our inquiry it
will be proper to consider the bearing of the state of the weather on fermentation
as just described, a very important matter, where the cocoa has to be dried
during persistent rains, and this very often happens when the crop comes in early.
The small proprietor then is not so very unreasonable, according to his light, in
making the fermentation and drying process go hand in hand as it were, for the
partially fermented cocoa stands damp weather and absence of sun longer than
that which has been thoroughly treated . Unsweated cocoa, moreover, gives the
same results on analysis as any other,?J.H.H. and although it is not aromatic,and
fetches a smaller price, the poor man argues that it is better than a dead loss.
A much better remedy for these troubles will, however, be found further on.
It would be a mere waste of time to dwell longer upon the unsatisfactory
short and unscientific method in common use, so we will pass on to the plan
introduced by Mr. Strickland and for which he deserves full credit. His system
has been adopted with various modifications in both Grenada and Trinidad, but to
understand its importance we must study the composition of the bean first, and
see how it is affected by the fermenting process according to the different varieties.
Reviewing twelve separate analyses by such eminent authorities as Professor
Parkes, Hassall, Playfair and others, one is surprised to seethat their estimation
of fat or cocoabutter should vary from 36 to56 per cent. The late Professor
McCarthy found from 18 to 28 per cent. (from uncured cocoa probably). Is this
a slur upon chemical science, or does it not rather prove the wide diversity of
our cocoas in respect to that particular constituentand, thereby, explainthe
APPENDIX . 71
different requirements with regard to fermentation ? The average of these

analyses is as follows :
Cocoa butter 50
Albumenoid substances 20
Starch 13
Salts ... 4
Theobromine 2
Other substances ( including
in one observer humic
acid-7 ) .. 11
Total 100
This relative composition of the different varieties of cocoa is maintained

whether in the green state, fermented, or roasted . Are we not then justified in
deciding that no chemical changes are brought about in the bean by fermentation,
or at any rate none that can be formulated ?
The ingredient ulmine or humic acid is a curious discovery , and one would
fancy straight away that it was derived from Sugar ! But that can not be, for
the starch granules within the bean are not changed into Sugar. Mr. Prestoe
thought that the sweating of cocoa was a malting process ( vide Annual Report of
Botanic Gardens for 1880, para . 337 ), and many planters still think that germin
ation has something to do with it ; if so, it can be but in the very earliest stage,
inasmuch as the radicle is always in situ : it may influence the swelling out of
the bean which always takes place in the sweating house, and that is about all ,
When the vinous fermentation sets in, germination is arrested. At this stage,
if fermentation has been properly established, the cotyledons are found separated
and the vinous liquor of the pulp , which passes through the membranous covering,
occupies this space, as well as the lacunæ between the convolutions, the cocoa
bean being distinguished as foliaceous. This it is which has so marked a physio
logical influence and affects its flavour, the bean being, as may be said , cuite
dans son jus. This phenomenonis described chemically as “ osmosis,” and may
be shewn in a very simple manner by placing the fermenting beans in a solution
of fuchshine, which passes inside at once.
When the cocoa is eventually dried - in the sun or otherwise --the fluid , of
course , disappears , but the lacune remain , and are the cause of the elastic feeling
on pressure which some buyers hold by so much. It is the sign of fermented cocoa .
If the following axioms are admitted , viz. :
1. The different requirements of our cocoa with regard to fermentation are
mainly regulated by the amount of fat they contain.
2. It is not possible to separate the varieties in the field for practical
purposes.
we may proceed to consider Mr. Strickland's method. He has a series of vats or

tanks ( 3) in a row , built of concrete. They are 11 feet wide , 5 feet deep , and
about 22 feet long, ( the row of three ); they are covered by a galvanised iron roof,
but the shed is not boarded up from the level of the tanks to the roof (about 5
feet ) , there is a vent, of course, below for the escape of liquor, and the cocoa is
covered carefully on top with plantain leaves ; there is no other cover. The
drainage from these tanks runs away to a little pond and stinks quite as bad as
the lees from a sugar battery. One cannot help thinking this is a foolish waste
of good material, for if the pleasant tasting vinous liquor cannot be used as a
beverage, why not convert it into vinegar ? ( It makes good spirit – J.H.H .)
The cocoa remains in the first vat five days , and the temperature is not
allowed, under any circumstances, to rise beyond 115° or 120° (by thermometer) ;
this is regulated by the admission of cold air through bamboo tubes, with many
openings (5 bamboos in each tank ) , with their ends protruding through holes in
the concrete walls at each end of the tank ; the ends of the tubes are plugged
72 APPENDIX .
with clay when required to modify the current of cold air — a rough and ready
plan, but quite effectual. In this tank the evolution of carbonic acid gas is very
marked, and may be easily demonstrated by connecting the ends of the bamboos
with a glass filled with lime water. There is also a delicious odour from the fer
menting mass, as of apples orcider. The vinous fermentation in this vat induced
by “ saccharomyces cerviciæ ” (?) is accompanied before removal probably by a com
mencing lactous fermentation, the ferment of which is “ penicillium glaucum ,
Co H1 , 06 = 2C , H. 03
The cocoa is next turned over to vat No. 2, and about this time a marked acid
reaction is shewn by the reddening of litmus paper. The lactous fermentation
may then go on alone at a somewhat lower temperature, and after another five
days the cocoa is turned into vat No. 3. Here, some very complex changes take
place, such as the conversion of lactic into butyric acid,
2C , H, 0, = C, H, 0, + 2C 0 , + 2H ,
The pleasantcider -like smell of the vinous ether has vanished , and it is curious
that it should be replaced by its isomer (Butyric Acid ). The latter is familiar as
the sour smelling substance met with in rancid butter. The presence of butyrates
in this vat is very easily shewn. One must be careful that at this stage the tem
perature does not fall below 95°, and even then, some of the secondary fermenta
tions must take place, (which some people think might be left out, for fear of
spoiling the flavour of the bean) such as the mucous and putrefactive, with vibrio
and the formation of nitrous and nitric acid, and at times the evolution of
offensive gas, the beans becoming discoloured and covered with algæ. After five
days in this vat the cocoa is removed to the drying house, where three days' ex
posure to the sun suffices to dry and finish its preparation. The cocoa has then
decidedly not an inviting appearance, it is dark , somewhat shrivelled, not too
elastic on pressure, and even sour smelling, but this sour smell is certainly not
the common sour smell which is condemned in inferior cocoa. It is by section
only that the advantage of this process can be seen, and then you will find a
characteristic light cinnamon colour, an agreeable odour, and every bean uniform
-not a purple or yellow bean , even amongst the flattest and most unpromising.
This is what the manufacturers want, and it is the only way known atpresent to
get over the difficulties of sweating the many varieties of our cocoas . It may,
however, be suggested that the outward appearance of this cocoa is susceptible of
improvement, and with this view washing might he tried , and the cocoa after
wards sprinkled with a solution of boric acid to prevent mildew. If treated with
this or some similar antiseptic such as sulphurous acid (fuming sulphur) “ as
suggested by Mr. Prestoe,” it might be dried in a current of air without any
exposure to sun at all and would resist damp for many days, but if dried by
artificial heat such as that of Mr. Ross of Grenada, (dry heat) or hot water
apparatus, the risk would be still less. This plan would be applicable to all
cocoas, of course, without respect to the period of fermentation, and in wet
weather it would be found a very great advantage to remove the mass of sour
gummy substance, although this may actas a preservative coating when the cocoa
is sun- dried. The husk is certainly much more brittle in washed cocoa , and does
not therefore protect the bean as it should weighs also considerably lighter,
but this might be made up by re-coating the bean with a mixture of starch , gum
tragacanth, and boric acid . This would be preservative, and improve the look of
the cocoa very much ; colour might be added if desired. If so, it should be red
earth and not common colouringmaterial, becauseearth coating is recognised as
legitimate. Some might prefer the fresh cocoa pulp ; if so, boric acid should still
be an ingredient, and the proper way would be to sprinkle during the drying
process, and not wash on in quantity . One favourable point in the removal
the fusty products of fermentation before drying would be the saving of infinite
labour in treating and hand-rubbing the coeoa as usually practised . The boric
acid might be added in the proportion of 1 per cent,
" REM ACU TETIGISTI."

APPENDIX . 73
SECOND PRIZE ESSAY - By Mr. CRICHLOW.
AFTER picking, the pods are gathered into heaps, this heaping being a first
step in the process, and one requiring special attention.
The time fermentation in the pod is allowed to take place varies according to
the state of the weather, for instance, during warm and sunny days from twelve
to thirty -six hours, but during the rainy season or other showery days when the
development of fermentation in the pod is slow, the duration may extend to as
much as six or seven days; the exercise of some judgment is required here so as
to give the operator a fair start to enable him ultimately to achieve success.
The next is heaping, being easier to hand for the breaking process, the pod is
taken in the left hand and split on both sides longitudinally and opened in a
somewhat similar manner to the shell of an oyster ; the gelatinous contents are
then scooped out and thrown upon plantain or fig leaves , which must be closely
spread upon the ground, previously, for the purpose of placing the pulpy mass
thereon. In case of rain meanwhile, an impromptu covering of leaves forms an
ample protection from wet, which, if not prevented as much as possible at this
stage, will result in rotting within a very short period of time.
The principal method of transport of the green cocoa from the fields to the
fermenting cells is in baskets (expressly manufactured for the purpose ), carried
upon the backs of donkeys. Before entering into further details of theprocesses
of the fermentation of cocoa, I shall describe the manner in which a fermenting
house should be built ;‫ ܪ‬an oblong square framework of any size as may be required
and of about ten feet high, roofed over with galvanized tiles, the sides of which
should be concreted up not higher than three feet, .four inches, sectioned off into
three equal compartments ; a size of eight feet, six inches by four feet, six inches
each cell will be found very handy for working purposes ; about six holes each
side of, say, three inches diameter should be pierced through each compartment,
the lowest three being placed about six inches above the floor, while the upper
ones should be placed about eighteen inches up and equally distant from the ends
of the compartment( to secure uniformity of ventilation when required ). Through
and through the holes, should be fixedin bamboos, whichhave been previously
bored around and about at three inches apart with gths of an inch auger holes.
The floor should be double, a lower one being made of concrete, four inches space
left, and then an upper one made ofcreole wood piercedwith auger holes forming
three-inch squaresthroughout ; both floors beingdished in from the sides to the
centre at an angle of about thirty degrees : holes being left through the partition
and end walls in the bottom centre to allow the watery matter thrown off by the
fermenting cocoa to escape. The tops of the fermenting cells should be provided
with tight wooden covers hermetically fitted and the framework above left open.
To prevent acidity in the cocoa, which is often caused by the chill resulting
from its contact with the cold sides of the concrete cells, I recommend that short
lengths ofboard be fitted in on every side, the horizontal holes being cut through
so asto allow the free passage of the perforated tubes beforementioned. Well,
our fermenting ( or sweating house, as it is sometimes called) being finished, we
proceed to fix in our perforated tubes, which are then well plugged at each end
with wooden or clay plugs, to prevent during fermentation an inrush of atmos
pheric air exceeding the regulated amount required ; the lower escape holes are
also closed and then cell No. 1 is filled up nearly to the top with green cocoa.
Covering over the mass with plantain or fig leaves aids slightly in hastening
the process offermentation, but this is not an absolute necessity ifthe wooden
covers are well and closely fitted on and covered over with a tarpaulin held in its
place by any loose pieces of wood at hand. At the end of four and twenty hours
during warm weather and somewhat longer duringwet weather, one of the upper
and another of the lower ventilating tubes should be unplugged to prevent a
sudden chill,another of thecauses ofsourness in cocoa ; the unplugging should
be done on the side away from the direction in which the wind happens to be
blowing at the time, both to allow the escape of carbonic acid gas and also the
introduction of a thermometer so as therebyto be enabled to regulate the mean
temperature of the fermenting cocoa which should not exceed 110 degrees Fah
renheit. At the end of seventy -two hours all liquid is let off from one of the plug
bolestakes
cells at bottom
place, the covers being unshifted, the operation of an interchange of
.
74 APPENDIX .
Twoor more experienced hands armed with wooden scoop shovels get inside
on top of the now steaming cocoa and partly by trampling and rubbing with
hands, feet and shovels, the whole mass is rubbed together and disintegrated,
shovelled up and over into cell No. 2, which had been previously prepared to receive
it. No. 1 being properly cleaned and refilled with green cocoa , the same pre
cautionary measures, now as before, being strictly adhered to , the fermentation
continues ; in cell No. 2 the temperature may be allowed to rise as high as 118
degrees Fahrenheit, but should not exceed this as otherwise an excess of heat may
stew, or ultimately result inshrivelling up a large number of the beans ; this can
always be avoided by a uniformity of regulation in the mean temperature of the
fermenting cells.
After the cocoa taken from cell No. 1 remains in cell No. 2 for another
seventy-two hours, this cell is then opened and here the handling and manage
ment of the scoop is of prime importance, every portion , every grain of the cocoa
must be turned over and over, while also being handled to sort, orseparatesuch
as may yet be sticking together during its transference over into cell No. 3, No. 2
is cleaned and well ventilated, where into the contents of No. 1 is transferred,
and No. 1 , after being also cleaned and aired, is filled up again with green cocoa
and so on to the finishing of the picking on hand . After the expiration of a
further ninety -six hours or about ten days in all (being sufficient to complete the
process of fermentation ), and also to render comple the metamorphosis of sup
pressed germination, the cocoa is now ready, the weather being favourable for
transference to the curing -house.
Permitting cocoa to remain so long as from fifteen to twenty days undergoing
the process of fermentation, especially during the latter stage, is merely making a
choice between fermenting a few days longer and drying a few days less and vice
versâ.
The above variety of processes to be carried out as they are here laid down
requires a nearly continuous succession of sun-shiny days, for according to atmos
pheric changes from warm and dry, to moist or wet, so has also the fermentation
of the various qualities of cocoa to be regulated ; so that an extension of the fer
mentation process to nearly three weeks is justifiable only during the rainy sea
son, or otherwise during a continuous succession of rainy days, but great care and
experience are required to prevent the cocoa from being rendered sour, mildewed
or irretrievably rotten.
The above processes of fermentation of cocoa, as followed out in the Island of
Trinidad in some instances and adapted to the Criollo and all other qualities
indi
genous to our soils (with slight variation) to the thin -skinned red and yellow
kinds, the duration of fermentation, when such is found necessary to be done
apart from the thick -skinned red and yellow kinds also, should be shortened by
at least six hours at each stage ; but here again we have to depend much upon
atmospheric conditions besides a mixed cocoa cultivation .
Cocoa prepared as above, when sectioned, will be found to have developed a
rich cinnamon colour, the grains will be mealy, plump and fair to look upon, the
smell pleasant, while not a vestige of mildew nor sourness will be present.
The advantage of washing cocoa in Trinidad is a matter of opinion ; this
question lies principally within the domain of the experimentalist ; opinions are
divided as to its local apotion ; much general grain would result in case experi
ments in thisline should prove commercially successful for the improvement of
the quality of cocoa grown here ; but to have a cocoa-house filled with washed
and wet cocoa, and then to be hemmed in by a succession of rainy days extending
over weeks together, the consequences following therefrom can better be imagined
than described. Washing does not recommend itself either at any one of the
stages of fermentation, as the chill then caused may rather be productive of harm
than good.
Colouring or painting over the bean with pigments should not be counte
nanced for onemoment, as resorting to such measures is both retrogressive and
deceptive ; retrogressive because it prevents an expansion of experimental ideas
to seek out the means whereby to develop natural first-class colours, and decep;
tive because when the subterfuge is most depended upon it will of necessity fail
APPENDIX . 75
signally . The production of the first -rate article can and must be realised , -
that which the frequenters of Shove's and others so well love to base quota
tions upon in the markets of England, Europe and America , there realizing paying
prices and here returning a harvest of gold to the thoughtful and industrious,
whereas on the other hand subterfuges are sure to be fouud out in the long run,
and but bring in train disappointment to individuals and ultimate loss to entire
communities .
In conclusion, having in the course of this essay touched upon all the principal
circumstances connected with the fermentation of cocoa, a brief summary of the
means whereby a first- class marketable article can be turned out will not be out
of place. They are as follows :
( 1st). Warm sun -shiny days.
( 2nd ). Great attention to the cleanliness and proper airing of the cells.
( Sweating boxes) J.H.H.
(3rd). A proper and uniform regulation of the mean temperature of the
cells during fermentation.
(4th). The fermenting cocoa should never be allowed to remain in its lees.
(5th ). The handling, interchange of cells and sorting process being deftly
done and the curing being gradually and regularly proceeded
with during the first forty-eight hours, these taken in the aggre
gate may be accepted as the summum bonum of the fermenta
tion of various qualities of cocoa and also the turning out of a
first-class staple.
To produce aromatic and well-developed beans in the cocoa pod is the ultima
thule earnestly aimed at by our really pushing and enterprising planters.
SOL.
THIRD PRIZE ESSAY - By Mr. EUGENE LANGE , Senr

WHEN we ask ourselves the question, “ How to ferment Cocoa,” we set our
selves the task of resolving a problem that presents a multiplicity of side issues,
each bearing directly on the main question, and each vital to it. It would be
erroneous, indeed, to start with the cocoa already broken and boxed in the
sweating compartments , for a uniform fermentation , and that it is we aim at,
necessarily depends on the uniformity of the fermentable matters. The first step,
therefore, must be a propor selection in the field, and a judicious classing of the
cocoa we intend fermenting. The best criterion for this selection, the surest
principle for this classification, is undoubtedly the degree of maturity of the cocoa.
As cocoa ripensits saccharine parts increase proportionately to its maturity, and
since, as we will further on demonstrate, this saccharine principle plays a most
important part in the fermentation process, it is but logical to set up as a basis
for our selection the amount of contained saccharine matter ; in other words, the
amount of maturity . And this selection is of vital importance ; for the less
mature cocoa, less rich also in saccharine, will ferment much slower than the
riper beans, and if these two be “ sweated ,” as the term goes, together, we will
find the latter oversweated when the former has but just reached the proper point.
Having therefore properly classified our cocoa, according to its degree of
maturity, our next step is to place it in sweating boxes where it can ferment. We
now come to the question : " What kind of boxes will best ensure the result we
are aiming at ?” viz. : a uniform fermentation .
The fermentation of cocoa is essentially alcoholic ; the sugar of the pulp be
coming converted into alcohol and carbonic acid ; so that, as Lavoisier says :
" If we could re- combine alcohol and carbonic acid gas, we would reconstruct
Levulose,” (fruit sugar).
Now, basing our arguments on the firmly established dictum of Pasteur " that
alcoholic fermentation is the function of the life of certain cellular vegetable
organisms, Zymogenic, Mycrophytes, whichare a priori, the leaven, and the pro
duction of alcohol is simply the result of the absorption, at the expense of the
sugar, of the oxygen necessary for their vitality,” we feel no hesitation in laying
down this rule forthe disposition of the sweating boxes. These boxes should be
not more than fifteen inches high, and the cocoa in them should be uniformly
76 APPENDIX .
laid. This maximum of height will obviate the mutual pressure of the beans,
preventing the amount of atmospheric circulation required for conveying, to
the mass, the organisms on which fermentation depends ; and it would , besides,
economize the labour now utilized in transferring the cocoa from one box to the
other, to ensure the contact of the lowest beans with that air, which they would
never receive in the sweating compartment of the depth in vogue.
A point, which will fitly find its place in the present paragraph, refers to
cocoa which, though mature , has been weathered or rained on in the field. Part
of its saccharine principle has been washed away, and being now but a poor
medium for the development of the microphytes, it is apt to “ postpone” a great
deal, often undergoes putrid changes, and becomes fit only for the manure heap.
Under-matured cocoa , from a similar cause,a deficiency of levulose is also re
tarded. A great deal of cocoa was lost last November and December, especially
among the smaller proprietors who ignore the remedy requisite to save the cocoa .
And this remedy is so simple that I am indeed surprised it has not been more
generally employed by cocoa planters. It is rational enough to suppose that if
we can replace the deficient material, levulose, we will ensure a healthy and
uninterrupted fermentation. The best substitute is sugar, and that of the com
monest kind, that is to say, sugar containing the most glucose. Cocoa treated in
this way and raised to the same composition as matured cocoa will ferment as
readily,as quickly, and as thoroughly as the latter.
During the process of fermentation a great amount of heat is generated, and
this acting on the bean both through the pores of the pellicule and through the
opening at the top, known as the “ Hile," vaporizes the aqueous elements and
develops the fatty substance which absorbs andretains the essential aroma of the
cocoa.
Still the heat generated is not sufficient to vaporize all the aqueous por
tion of cocoa, and it is in our drying houses that the residual moisture is finally
expelled. For this reason, thoroughly fermented cocoa, cantaining a minimum
quantity of moisture, must be dried gradually so as not to blister the bean,
especially if the remaining pulp or “ bava ” has been washed off as is done in
Ceylon. On the other hand , cocoa indifferently fermented , or surrounded by an
undue proportion of moist bava , is very liable to be attacked by fungi, and to
mildew, if, as is often the case, heavy rains retard the drying process. The
repeated hand and foot rubbing, practised to remove the mildew , often breaks
the bean ; and the fungi spread to the interior of the cocoa, which , if not rendered
altogether unmarketable, is, at all events, much depreciated in value. No arti
ficial means of drying cocoa has yet given satisfactory results ; but in rainy
weather the following process has been found to minimize the risks of mildew.
It consists in heating pulverized red earth , and mixing it intimately with the
cocoa .
This pulverizedearth acts both by absorbing the moisture from the cocoa
and by vaporizing that moisture. By taking advantage of a sunny day the cocoa
may be freed from its earthy coatingby slight washing and immediate drying.
But before concluding, one point is deserving of notice in thismatter of cocoa
fermentation. It is the specific wants of the various markets. Nothing is better
known to the cocoa planter, when his cocoa is sold abroad, than the fact that,
however scientific the preparation of his cocoa, by fermentation, the special wants
of a particular market may require
than aanperfectly
imperfectly fermented
cocoa.cocoa with certain
external characteristics rather fermented But this feature
isfectnotcocoa
gaining ground from the obvious superiority of the perfect over the imper
.
QUOD SCIAM .
PROFESSOR MCCARTHY'S ANALYSIS .
AT page 48 of the Annual Report on the Royal Botanic Gardens

for 1880, Mr. Prestoe, my immediate predecessor, gives the following :
“In two ordinary varieties of Cacao lately analysed fresh from the pod, the
fat was only 18 per cent. in the one, while in the other, it was over 28 per cent.
Theobromine being in nearly the same proportion .”
ILLUSTRATIONS.
In selecting the Cacao pods for our Illustrations we have been at

considerable trouble to get what must be considered a fair type of each
variety and not extreme forms.
No. 1 represents a fair sample of Red and Yellow Criollo. As will
be seen this is always more bottle-necked and pointed than any of the
other forms. The section is drawn from an actual section of the pod
represented , cut from the centre and laid upon the paper. It will be
seen that the outer covering is very thin in comparison with other
varieties, and this forms one of its chief characteristics. The measure
ment of the pods may be taken from the scale. This variety certainly
produces the finest quality of Cacao produced in the West Indies.
No. 2 shows the character of the Forastero varieties . The Red
variety as a rule shows a more worted appearance than the Yellow. As
shewn by the section also drawn from actual section of the fruits, the
thickness of the skin is rather greater than in Criollo. This is some
times called the ten " furrowed ” Cacao, while the smoother varieties
are called the five “ furrowed,” as the intermediate furrow all but dis
appears in the larger proportion of the pods of that class. The furrows
are much more decided in Forastero than in Criollo, as will be noticed
by the depth shewn in the sections of both the Red and Yellow varieties.
No. 3 , as will be seen, there is a wide margin of difference between
No. 3 and the two preceding numbers, but in the text it will be found
that this is covered by the insertion of the ordinary Red and Yellow
Forastero as Nos . 5 and 6 . There is really a large number of forms
included between these two types, but none however, which are con
sidered of sufficient prominence to be treated as a typical variety. The
Amelonado is conspicuous by its thick -skinned, smooth and five -furrowed
pod, but its seeds are almost identical with those of Nos. 3 and 4, except
when met with as an extreme form approaching Calabacillo, into which
it frequently runs upon the same tree .
No. 4 shows “ Calabacillo ” Red and Yellow. The pods are small,
smooth, thick- skinned, and contain little else but flattened beans, small,
and containing a large amount of the bitter principle and purple colour
ing - slightly rounder pods should perhaps have been selected to repre
sent faithfully the character of this type.
The figures are not ideal drawings of what we consider to be a
type, but are drawn from individual pods of the major types collected
from an estate in one of the best districts of the Island,
CACAO HOOK .
See Part II. Page 27.

F
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Hart Cacao 1892

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This is a reproduction of a library book that was digitized

by Google as part of an ongoing effort to preserve the

Harvard College Library

No. 1.- CRIOLLO .

" CACAO ."

TREATISE ON THE CULTIVATION AND CURING OF “ CACAO "

JO HINCHLEY HART , F.L.S.,

“QUI NON PROFICIT DEFICIT ."

PRICE : -- FIVE SHILLINQS .

PRINTED AT THE GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, PORT-OF -SPAIN ,

Harvard College Library

[S EXCELLENCY SIR WILLIAM ROBINSON, K.C.M.G. ,

For the purpose of placing on record the unfailing support which

IP. 1. -SELECTION OF LAND, & c .

Part II. - PREPARATION FOR MARKET .

AP . VI . - PICKING AND HARVESTING .

Part III. - SCIENTIFIC and MISCELLANEOUS

SELECTION OF LAND.-- Suitable soils - Aspect_Worn out lands - Tidal lands

PLANTING AND SHADING .-- Preparation of land by Contract - Quarreé as Spanish

MANURING AND PRUNING . – Description of tree good health --Such trees do

PICKING CROP.-- Cacao Hook--Instructions for harvesting crop - Importance of

WASHING.- Ceylon methods- Advice of London brokers - Mr. Morris' opinion

Bot 7108.92KE 35255

Harvard College Library

TREATISE ON THE CULTIVATION AND CURING OF “ CACAO "

Jonก HINCHLEY HART , F.L.S.,

“QUI NON PROFICIT DEFICIT.”

PRICE : -- FIVE SHILLINQS .

PRINTED AT THE GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, PORT -OF -SPAIN ,

Harvard College Library

IIS EXCELLENCY SIR WILLIAM ROBINSON , K.C.M.G.,

For the purpose of placing on record the unfailing support which

( AP . 1. - SELECTION OF LAND, & c .

Part II . - PREPARATION FOR MARKET.

AP. VI. - PICKING AND HARVESTING .

Part III. - SCIENTIFIC and MISCELLANEOUS

SELECTION OF LAND . - Suitable soils — Aspect_Worn out lands - Tidal lands

PLANTING AND SHADING.-- Preparation of land by Contract - Quarreé as Spanish

MANURING AND PRUNING . – Description of tree in good health --Such trees do

LOADS AND DRAINING. -Necessity for roads—How to make them - Economy

PICKING CROP.-- Cacao Hook -- Instructions for harvesting crop - Importance of

WASHING . - Ceylon methods- Advice of London brokers - Mr. Morris' opinion

DISEASES, & C. - Diseases few- Most common- Black rot-Dr. de Verteuil's

EXPORT, &c. -Export of Cacao-Customs returns — Value — Price of Crown Lands

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION, & c .-- Chemical composition of the bean - Table of

In May, 1882, the writer's attention was specially attracted to the

OR the cultivation of the Cacao tree the soil selected should

震 be one which possesses the requisite depth of surface soil,

established Estates it will be found economical and convenient to cul.

however possible for land to contain all the substances or ingredients

Selection of Seed - Nurseries .

ACAO is invariably raised from seed by the planter. The

quality of seed, if it is the planter's aim to improve the quality and

Every care should therefore be taken not to injure roots, and in

Planting and shading.

HE preparation of the land for planting is an important

of moisture in the plant itself, nurseries should always be copiously

is — provided you have a good contractor-one of the simplest, cheapest

no remedy, for in the attempt to recover, he is simply sustaining further