FA S HI O N FR A ME W OR K SE R I E S
Toe-Up Sock Lesson
by Arenda Holladay
Tn each iss11e, the "Fashion Framework series" will help you explore
basic elements of pattern make-up - things to know before yo11 knit.
Each article in this series will provide a "lesson" for n basic 1ype of
garment. The lesson will describe in detail aspecls of !he garme111 m1d
provide a basic pattern and show ways to alter the standard partem
to customize the garment. The lesson for this iss11e is toe-11p socks.
ABO UT TOE-U P SOCKS
There are two basic ways to knit a sock; beginning a t the cuff and
working down to the toe or from the toe to the cuff. There arc ad-
vantages to both methods and a later article in this series will discuss
cuff down socks with heel gussets. This article will cover the process
of knitting a sock toe-up with short row heels. The lesson provides
the steps fo r knitt ing a simple ribbed cuff sock but pa tterns are also
provided fo r more complicated designs.
12 Cast On • August -October 2009
The major advantage to knitting a sock from the toe-up is that it
can be tried on as you work on it and you do not have to wo rry
abo ut running out of yarn before you fin ish the foot. If you run
short, t he cuff doesn't have to be as long.
Com ponents
The basic components of a sock are the toe, instep, sole, heel and
cuff. When you look at a sock pattern, check to see how the toe and
heel are shaped as this affects not only how the sock is kn it but also
how the sock fi ts. For example, some find heel flaps and gussets
bulky. Check to see if the sti tch pattern is on the instep (top part
of the sock from the toe to the ankle) as well as the cuff. Consider
if the stitch pattern o n the cuff is clastic enough to sl ide over the
heel and instep when putting it o n and if it will fit comfortably on
the calf. It is no secret tha t the size of people's calves can vary. Socks
should be fun to k nit but th ey shou ld also fit th e recipient.
Const ruction
There are several ways to cast on for a toe-up sock. Some patterns
call for a provisional cast on where the stitches are kept " l ive '~ This
requires a Kitchener closing which ma ny knitters d read. Others
call for t he Eastern o r Figure 8 cast on but t his lesson wi ll use Judy
Becker's Judy's Magic Cast-On fo und in the Spring 2006 issue of
K.nitty.com.
It is no coincidence that the popularity of knitting socks toe- up has
occurred since the publication of Priscilla Gibson-Robert's Simple
Socks: Plain and Fancy which features short row heels. Although it
is possible to usc a heel llap or afterthought heel, most patterns spec-
ify sho rt row heels.
Lang Jawoll. This hea th ered yarn docs not detract fro m the pattern.
The Silk \"!asp Wing socks arc knit with a single strand of RedFish
Dyewo rks 2/ 20 Silk.
Needles
You have th ree choices when kn itting socks-double pointed needles,
one long circular needle or two circu lar needles. Most serio us sock
knitters have a definite preference. There are advantages and disad-
vantages to each. Judy's Magic Cast-On is m uch easier with circular
need les so this lesson recommends a long circular need le. Personally,
I prefer d ouble pointed needles so I use a long circular needle for the
toe and then switch need les. If you a rc new to sock knitting, do not
let a more experienced kn itter belittle yo ur needle choice o r attempt
to bully you. It is up to each kn itter to find the tools and techniques
they prefer. Even if a pattern specifi es a pa rticular type of needle you
ca11 use the needles you prefer.

Another thing to consider when knitting toe-up is the elasticity of SOCK LESSON
the bind off. The standard bind off is too tight fo r the cuff. There T he pattern in this lesson is for simple ribbed socks. There will
arc alternative bind off techn iq ues which provide a looser edge. be an ex-planation of each step in the constructio n preceding the
pattern section. Pattern inst ructions are boxed to set them off from
Yarn Co nsiderations the explanatio ns.
Walk in to any yarn store or search a web site fo r "sock yarn" and you
will be amazed by your choices. Before selecting a yarn consider the Pat tern Inform ation
fiber type. Socks made from LOO% wool may not wear as well or may T his section provides general in formation yo u need to work the
req uire hand washing. I have learned from experience that socks knit pattern.
with wool blends last longer. To be o n the safe side when working
with IOOo/o wools, you may wan t to rei nforce the heels and toes. I
have found sil k li ke Splendor or Elegance (available in needlepoint
stores) works well. Simple Ribbed Sock
by Arenda Ho lladay
Another factor to consi der is the pattern of the yarn. Most kn itters
I know are inimed iatcly drawn to variegated yarns. The stripi ng Yarn Symbol: Super Fine ( I )
and pool ing of colors may detract from a sock with an intricate Level of Experience: Easy
pattern. For example, a plain color yarn works best for the Wasp
Wings pa ttern wh ich fo ll ows. Variegated or multicolored yarn Sizes: Women's S (M , L)
works well for a simple sock like the ribbed socks in the lesson.
Some patterns are enhanced by mult icolored yarns. The sli pped Finished Measurem ents:
stitches used in the Lattice socks can add interest to the stripes. Foot Circumference: 9"
Patterns like Monkey Socks designed by Cookie A which have Foot Length: 9 (9 L/2, I 0)"
Stockinette stitches next to reverse Stockinette st itches often work Cuff: 6 1/2"
well with variegated yarns. If you arc a mem ber of Ravelry, you
may wa nt to search there for a part icula r sock pattern o r yarn be- Materials:
fore comm itting the time to the project. Pagewood Farms HAND DYED YARN DENALI (4oz/l l3g,
450yds/4 I 1m , 80% Merino Superwash Wool, 20% Nylon ):
One of the problems with variegated ya rns or yarns like Noro sock I skein Fabulo us Fall
yarns is that the color pattern is disrupted on the instep when the Size 2 (2.75mm ) 32" (80cm ) circu lar needle or size needed to
heel is worked. The instep is generally the most visible part of the obtain correct gauge"
sock. To avoid this, I pull the yarn from the center or another ball *Once the toe is complete, you may use dp11s for this pattern if
of yarn to work the heel. This guarantees that th e colo r pattern is you wish
maintained o n the instep. Tapestry needle
Cable needle
When selecting the ya rns for the socks in this lesson, I tried to select
a range of yarn types. T he simple sock is knit with Pagewood Farms
Hand Dyed Sock yarns. The colors do not stripe or pool but provide
a random design. The Lattice socks are knit with Sh ibui Sock that
has a definite stri ped pattern. The Wasp Wing socks are k nit with continued 011 page 14

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- - - -- - -- -- --
 continued from page 13
Gauge:
In St st, 32 sts & 44 rows= 4"/ I 0 em .
To save lime, take time to check gauge.
Special Abbreviations:
Inc !R - Right slanting lifted increase. Knit in to the purl nub
below the stitch. Then knit the stitch .
lnc l L - Left sla11ting lifted increase. Knit the stitch. T hen knit
into the purl nub below th e stitch. SSSP - Sli p the next 3 sts
knitwise o ne at a time to the RH needle; pass them back to
LH needle, place the RH needle behind these three stitches
and purl them together through the back loops.
Preparation - Measuring Gauge
The most importa nt part of the general pattern information is the
descript ion of the expected gauge. Before beginni ng it is necessary
to knit a gauge swatch even if you a re using the recom mended yarn.
Using the recommended needle size and the ya rn, cast o n at least 30
stitches and work at least 2" in Stockinette stitch. Since some kni tters
have different gauge when knitting in the round, you may want lo
knit the gauge swatch in the round. (Row gauge is not as impor-
tant for th is pattern.) Block the swatch and meas ure the width to an
eighth of an inch and note the deci mal measurement o n the work-
sheet below. Also note the n umber of stitches you measured . If you
do no t take the time to do this, there is no guarantee the garment
will fit.
Gauge Worksheet
Width: 1/8 = .12S 1/4 = .2S 3/8 = .37S 1/2 = .S
S/8 = .62S 3/4 = .7S 7/8 = .87S
Nu mber of Stitches: Don't include the selvedge stitches. Divide the
number of stitches by the width. T his gives you the number of
stitches per inch. Do not round orr the number.
N umber of Stitches Per Inch: Multiply the number of stitches by
4. Ro und this number up or down.
N umber of Stitches in 4": Repeal th is proced ure to determine th e
row gauge.
Length: 1/8 = .1 2S l/4 = .2S 3/8 = .37S 1/2 = .S
S/8 = .62S 3/4 = .7S 7/8 = .87S
Number of Rows: Don't include the cast on o r bind of{ edge. Divide
the number of rows by the length. T his gives you th e number of
rows p er inch. Do not rou nd off the number.
Nu mber ofRows Per Inch: Multiply the number of rows by 4. Ro und
this number up or down .
14 Cast On • August - October 2009
N umber of Rows in 4 ": lf you are getting fewe r stitches than the
recommended gauge, try using a sm aller needle size. lf you are get-
ting mo re stitches than t he recommended gauge, try using a larger
needle size.
Casting on for the Toe
As ment ioned earlier, Judy's Magic Cast-O n will be used fo r the
socks. Th is article's bibliography includes additional so urces for
this cast on. However, the instructions wi ll guide you th rough this
process. If you are familiar with this tech nique, CO 16 sts to ea
needle and skip to "Shaping the Toe".
C1sting On for the Toe
I. Hold the needles side-by-side po inted towards the left. Place a
slip knot on the top needle. Keep the yarn tail on your index
finger and the working yarn o n your thumb (See Illustrat ion I
on page 1S). To make technique easier lo see, the sample is work-
ed in two colors. Th e pa ler yarn is the ya rn tail, th e darker yarn is
the workin g yarn .)
2. Bring the yarn on your index fi nger (yarn tail) under and over the
bottom needle (Sec Illust ration 2 on page IS) .
3. Bring the yarn o n your thumb (working yarn) under and over
the top needle (Sec Illustration 3 on page IS). Repeat Steps 2 and
3 unti l I6 sts have been cast on each needle (Sec Illustration 4 o n
page IS).
4. Turn the needles clockwise to the right. The need le with the
working yarn is o n the bottom. Let the yarn tail dangle free and
pick up the working yarn. Make sure you have the working yarn
over the yarn tail. Slide the stitches on the bottom need le to the
cable so that the need le is free. (lt is easier to work the stitches
this way.) Knit th e stitches on the top needle (See Ill ustration S
o n page 15).
S. Turn the needles clockwise to the right. Slide the stitches on the
top needle from the cable back to the needle. Slide the sti tches
o n the bottom need le to the cable so that th e need le is free. Knit
the stitches o n the second needle. You will need to knit these
stitches through the back loops o r they will be twisted.
DESIGNER NOTE
Shaping the Toe: The toe is shaped by making increases
every other row at the right and left on both the top and
bottom of the toe. The pattern specifies lifted increases.
If you are not familiar with these increases, you can watch
videos on Knittinghelp.com. This site calls these increases
KLR (right slanting) and KLL (left slanting).
Shaping the Toe
Rnd 1: Turn the needles clockwise to the right and slide the
sti tches o n the top needle from the cable to the needle.
 Illustration I
Slide the stitches on the bottom need le to the cable so that
the needle is free. Knit the stitches on the top needle. Turn
the needles clockwise to the right and slide the stitches on the
to p needle from the cable to the needle. Slide the sti tches on
the bottom needle to the cable so that the needle is free. Knit
the stitches o n the top need Ie.

Inc Rnd: Kl , Inc I R, knit to last 2 sts, In c I L, k I. Adjust the

sts on the needle as described in Rnd I. K l , Inc I R, knit to
last 2 sts, lnclL, k I. Rep Rnd I and Inc Rnd unti l there are
32 sts on ea needle - 64 sts tota l.
fllustration 2

Instep and Sole

This sock does not have a pattern stitch on the instep. It is worked
in Stockinette stitch. The only decision you have to make is when
to begin heel shaping which adds about 1 3/4" to the length of the
foot. Another way to determine when to start heel shaping is to try
the sock on. Begin heel shaping when the sock is at your ankle bone.
The o ther sock patterns in this lesson have sti tch pattern designs o n
the instep.

lfl ustration 3

Instep and Sole

Work in pat as est u ntil sock m eas 7 J/4 (7 3/4, 8 l/4)" or
I 3/4" from total desired length.

Shaping the Heel

Short rows shape the heel which is an alternative to the heel flap
and gusset technique used for most socks. This short- row technique
is the basis of Simple Socks: Plain and haney by Priscilla Gibson- Illustration 4
Roberts. The basic technique involves knitting one less stitch at the
end of every row on the heel back and knitting one more stitch at
the base the heel. The result is a heel similar to those found on com-
mercially manufactured socks.

Working a short row heel the first time can be a li ttle confusing. The
sock is worked as usual until the location for the heel. Half of the
total number of stitches ( the top of the foot) is held at the back.
The rest of the stitches form the heel. The heel is shaped by working
one less stitch at the end of every row until the base of the heel is
reached. To eliminate the holes that short rows produce, a yarnover
must be worked at the beginning of every row befo re the first stitch Illustration 5
is knit or purled. These yarnovers are paired with a stitch. Typical
ya rnovers which encircle the entire needle are too large. Instead, on
purled rows, take the yarn under the right needle and then purl the
first stitch and on kni t rows, take the yarn over the right needle and
then knit the first stitch.

continued on page 16

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 continued from page 15
The resulting yarnovers are smaller but they are seated backwards
on th e needle. That problem is solved when you pick up the stitches.
The stitches between the yarnover pairs form the base of the heel. If
you have narrow heels, work more short rows.
TECHNICAL TIP
Yarnover Pairs: 11 stitches will be between the yarnover/
stitch pairs. There will be 9 yarnover/stitch pairs on the
right side and 10 on the left side. Illustration 6 shows
these stitches. Note the single stitch at ends, the yarn-
over/stitch pairs and the stitches between them.
. creases match the size of the K2tog/K3tog decreases dif-
Shape Heel
Row 1 (RS): K31, leaving the fina l st on n eedle (this st will be
used to join heel to instep). This is the first short row. Turn .
Row 2 (WS): Work yo at beg of row by placing working yarn
under right needle, p the first st. (There are now three loops
on the right n eedle - the unworked st, the yo and st just p
which fo rms the first pair on this side.) P29, leavi ng last st on
left needle. Th is is the second short row. Turn.
Row 3: Work yo at beg of row by placing working yarn over
right needle, k fi rst st. (There a re now three loops o n right
needle- the unworked st, the yo, and st just k wh ich fo rms
the fi rst pair on this side. ) Work sts up to yo/st pair. Turn.
Row 4: Work yo beg of row by placing working yarn under
right needle, p sts up to yo/st pair. Turn. Rep Rows 3 & 4, beg
ea row with yo and wo rking one less st ea row until there are
11 sts bet yo/st pairs end o n RS. There are 9 st/yo pairs on
righ t side of heel and 10 st/ yo pairs on left side of heel.
Illustration 6
Turning the Heel
To turn the heel, each yarnover must be k (or p ) tog with t he next
st. Remember, since these yarnovers are not seated properly, they
must be adjusted before making the dec. If t he st mount of the yarn -
overs is not reversed, resulting decs will be twisted. For that reason,
it is necessary to rev the st mount of the yarnovers at the end of every
row. This is part of the SSP and SSSP decs. For K2tog and K3tog decs,
16 Cast On ·August - October 2009
-------------
sl the yarnovers to right needle as if to p and wi th le ft needle,
return them to the left needle, rev( ing) the st mount. To furt her re-
duce the possibility of a hole, yarnovers are again worked at each
turn. After the first two rows arc turned, there will be two yarnovers
to be decreased with each stitch .
Th e fi rst two rows of the heel turn are u nique. O nce you have
worked them, the rest of the rows are wor ked exactly the same
way un til all the stitches have been used up. To doubly ensure
that there are no holes, you will continue to make yarnm·ers every
tim e yo u turn the work.
TECHNICAL TIP
Decreases: Most knitters find making the SSP/SSSP de-
ficult. If you don't stretch out the slipped stitches you
can improve their appearance. If you have not worked
an SSP/SSSP decrease, go to Knittinghelp.com. There is a
video for the SSP decrease which you may find helpful.
Tu rning H eel
Row l (RS): YO, kl2 (up to first yo ). Adjust mount of yo.
K2tog. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): YO, p l 3 ( up to first yo ). SSP. Turn.
Row 3: YO, kl4 (up to first yo). Adjust mount of two yos one
at a time. K3tog. Turn.
Row 4: YO, p 15 ( up to first yo). SSSP. Turn.
Rep Rows 3 & 4, beg ea row with yo and working one ad-
ditional st ea row until al l yos have been worked. At ea turn
on last two t urns, work yos at beg of row ( used to help close
the gap bet the heel and instep). On last turn, work up to yo
at left side of heel.
Joining the Heel to the In step
Ano ther potential probl em with short row heels occurs when the
heel is joined to the top of the foot. The fi rst and last stitches at the
stitches reserved for the top of the foot m ay have been stretched as
you worked the heel. If the re is a gap, you may wan t to pick up an
extra stitch in the gap and work a K3tog o r SSSK at the join.
Joining Heel t o To p of Foot
Sl yo to next needle with sts for top of foot, k2tog. (If there
is a large gap, it may be necessary to pick up an additional st
in the gap. If so, work K3tog. ) Work up to last st o n top of
foot. Sl last st to needle with yo. Work SSK using sl stand yo.
(If there is a large gap, it may be necessary to pick up an ad -
ditional st in the gap.lf so, work SSSK.)
--------
Cuff Rep steps I -3 until all sts have been worked.
T he cuff pattern docs not begin immediately after the heel shap-
in g. Work l J/2" in Stockinette stitch so that the cuff begin s after *After the first time yo u work the steps, step 3 is worked d ifferen t-
the a nkle bone. lf the recipient of the socks has large calves, you ly. Insert the tapestry need le into the knit st just dropped from the
may want to switch to a larger needle size as wel l. needle. Big lJook of Knitting by Katharina Buss provides excellent
\ photographs of this technique.

Cuff
Wor k even in pat as est until sock meas approx 1 1/2'' after Finish ing
the heel shapi ng. Beg Pat Rnd: K2, p2. Work in pal as est Block if necessary, weave in all yarn tails.
until cuff meas approx 5 1/2''.

Patterns fo r three other socks begin on page 18. The instructions

Bind Off
for working the toes, heels and bind off are the same as for the
T he traditional BO is too tight for the top of the cuff. It makes
Simple Ribbed Socks.
the sock difftcult to put o n and uncomfortable to wea r. Chang-
ing to larger needles j ust makes the BO sloppy. The BO used in
Bibliography
this pattern is th e invisible BO which is simil ar to commercially
Judy's Magic Cast-On by Judy Becker
produced socks. The bibliography provides sources for two oth er
knitty.com/ issuespring06/FEATmagiccaston.htnu
techniques which provide loose BO edges, backstitch or sewn BO
vvW\-v.youtube.com/watch?v=TPjH-g_uvgk
and dec 130.

Short Row Heels

Although an invisible BO can be worked on K2P2, it is easier to
Gibson - Roberts, Priscilla, Simple Socks Plain and Fancy, Nomad
work on Kl P1 rib. Since the cuff is K2P2 r ib, you will convert this
Press, Cedaredge, CO, 2001.
to K1Pl rib. To prepare for the BO it is necessary to work 2-4 rows
with slip stitches. On the first (a nd third ) round you kni t the knit
Backs titch Bind Off
stitches and sl ip the purl stitches with the yarn in front. On the
Stanley, Montse, Knitter's Handbook, Reader's Digest, Pleasantville,
second (and fou rth ) round you purl th e purl stitches and slip the
NY 1993, pgs 89-90.
knit stitches with t he yarn in back.

Decrease Bind Off

Stanley, Montse, Knitter's Handbook, Reader's Digest, Pleasantville,
NY l993, pgs 85-86.
Bind Off
Rnd 1: *K1, place next st on en and hold to front, p1, k st
Invisible Bind Off
from en, p l ; rep from * to end of rnd.
Buss, Katharina, Big Book of Knitting, Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.,
Rnd 2: *KJ, bring yarn forward, sl nex t st, bring yarn back;
NY, NY, 1996, pgs 46-49.
rep from " to end of rnd.
Rnd 3: *SI st, bring yar n forward , pi, move yarn back; rep
from * to end of rnd .

Cut the ya rn. You will need at least three tim es the width of the
piece. Thread the yarn onto a tapestry needle. Adjust the stitches
on the needle so that a knit stitch is the last stitch on th e right
needle and a purl stitch is the first stitch on the left needle.

l. Insert the tapestry needle k- wise (or from the left) in the purl
stitch and pull tight.

2. Insert the tapestry needle p-wise (or from the right) into the knit
stitch on the right needle and al the same time into the knit stitch
on the left needle.*

3. Insert the tapestry needle back into the purl st p-wise and let
the first two sti tches d rop from the left needle.

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