Grade XII ISC Fashion Designing 2020-21

Notes – Sherwani, Achkan, Kurta of North India

Sherwani is a long coat-like garment worn in the Indian subcontinent, very similar to a
Western frock coat or a Polish and Lithuanian żupan. Originally associated with
Muslim aristocracy during the period of British rule,[1] it is worn over a kurta with the
combination of either a churidar, a dhoti, a pajama, or a shalwar/sirwal as the lower-body
clothing. It can be distinguished from the achkan by the fact that it is shorter in length, is
often made from heavier suiting fabrics, and by the presence of a lining. Sherwani is worn on
formal occasions.
History
According to Emma Tarlo, the sherwani evolved from a Persian cape (balaba or chapkan),
which was gradually given a more Indian form (angarkha), and finally developed into the
sherwani, with buttons down the front, following European fashion.[2] It originated in the 19th
century British India as the European style court dress of regional Mughal nobles and royals
of northern India,[3] before being more generally adopted in the late 19th century. It appeared
first at Lucknow in the 1820s.[4] It was gradually adopted by rest of the royalty
and aristocracy of Subcontinent, and later by the general population, as a more evolved form
of occasional traditional attire. The name of attire is possibly derived from Shirvan or
Sherwan, a region of present-day Azerbaijan due to the folk dress of that area (Chokha)
which resembles Sherwani in its outlook. Therefore, the garment may also be an Indianized
derivative of the Caucasian dress due to ethnic and cultural linkages of Indo-Persian during
Middle Ages.
In India, the achkan sherwani is generally worn for formal occasions in winter, especially by
those from Rajasthan, Punjab, Delhi, Jammu, Uttar Pradesh and Hyderabad.[5][6] The achkan
sherwani is generally associated with the Hindus while the simple sherwani was historically
favoured by Muslims.[7] The two garments have significant similarities, though sherwanis
typically are more flared at the hips and achkans are lengthier than simple sherwanis. The
achkan later evolved into the Nehru Jacket, which is popular in India.[8] In India, the achkan
or sherwani is generally worn with the combination of Churidar as the lower garment.[

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Sherwanis are mostly worn in Bangladesh, India and Pakistan.[12] These garments usually
feature detailed embroidery or patterns. One major difference between sherwani wearing
habits is the choice of lower garment, while in India, the dress is distinguished by their
preference for churidars or pyjamas, in Pakistan and Bangladesh, it is mainly worn
with shalwar instead.
Sherwanis have also been designed by the Indian designer, Rohit Bal for British
Airways cabin crews serving on flights to India. Music director A.R. Rahman also appeared
in a black sherwani to receive an Academy Award.
Pakistani journalist, filmmaker and activist, Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy appeared in sherwani to
receive Academy Award in 2012 and 2015
Achkan (Hindi: अचकन) also known as Baghal bandi is a knee length jacket worn by men in
the Indian subcontinent much like the Angarkha.

The word achkan is derived from Angarkha (Sanskrit: अंगरक्षक, anga-rakshaka 'body
protector').[1] The angarkha was worn in various parts of the Indian subcontinent, while the
basic cut remained the same, styles and lengths varied from region to region.[
The term angarkha, also called angrakha, refers to a traditional upper garment worn by men
in the Indian subcontinent, with origins in ancient India, which overlaps and is tied to the left
or right shoulder. The angrakha was a court outfit that a person could wrap around himself,
offering flexible ease with the knots and ties appropriate for wearing in the various
principalities of ancient Indian subcontinent. It is worn particularly
in India, Nepal, Bangladesh and in Pakistan much like the Achkan and Sherwani.
Some styles of the angarkha can be short. However, the angarkha can also be a long coat, or
it can be a long tunic which is tied to either the left or right shoulder.[3] Sometimes, cotton
jackets or tops are worn underneath the angarkha.[4]
Another style of angarkha is a sort of shirt worn under the jama and tied in two places on
each side of the body. The angarkha also refers to a short calico vest with sleeves which
descends only to the haunches. Instead of being fastened on both sides, is tied on one side
only

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A similar dress to the kurta known as the angarkha is traditionally worn
in Gujarat and Rajasthan,[6] which is somewhat shorter in length than a straight cut Kurta and
has a wider end similar to lower part of a ghagra. The front opens at either shoulder and the
bottom has a wide end which flares out. Some styles incorporate a placket.
The Rajasthani angarkha falls just below the waist,[7] in loose vertical gathers.[8]
In Gujarat, men in parts of Kutch wear the angarkha, also called the jama,[9] which has an
asymmetric opening with the skirt flaring out to around the hips.[10] However, some styles fall
to below the knees.
A kurta (or sometimes kurti, for women) is a loose collarless shirt worn in many regions
of South Asia,[1][2] and now also worn around the world.[3] Tracing its roots to Central
Asian nomadic tunics, or upper body garments, of the late-ancient- or early-medieval era, the
kurta has evolved stylistically over the centuries, especially in the Indian subcontinent, as a
garment for everyday wear as well as for formal occasions.[4]
The kurta is traditionally made of cotton or silk. It is worn plain or with embroidered
decoration, such as chikan; and it can be loose or tight in the torso, typically falling either just
above or somewhere below the knees of the wearer.[3] The front and back of a traditional
kurta are made of rectangular pieces, and its side-seams are left open at the bottom, up to
varying lengths, to enable ease of movement.[3] The sleeves of a traditional kurta fall to the
wrist without narrowing, the ends hemmed but not cuffed; the kurta can be worn by both men
and women; it is traditionally collarless, though standing collars are increasingly popular; and
it can be worn over ordinary pajamas, loose shalwars, churidars, or less traditionally
over jeans.[
A traditional kurta is composed of rectangular fabric pieces with perhaps a few gusset inserts,
and is cut so as to leave no waste fabric. The cut is usually simple, although decorative
treatments can be elaborate.[citation needed]
The sleeves of a traditional kurta fall straight to the wrist; they do not narrow, as do many
Western-cut sleeves. Sleeves are not cuffed, just hemmed and decorated.[citation needed]
The front and back pieces of a simple kurta are also rectangular. The side seams are left open
for 6-12 inches above the hem, also referred to as the chāk, which gives the wearer some ease
of movement. (Note: chāk derives from the Persian "‫ چاك‬ćāk, Fissure, cleft, rent, slit, a
narrow opening (intentionally left in clothes)."
The kurta usually opens in the front; some styles, however, button at the shoulder seam. The
front opening is often a hemmed slit in the fabric, tied or buttoned at the top; some kurtas,
however, have plackets rather than slits. The opening may be centered on the chest, or
positioned off center.
A traditional kurta does not have a collar. Modern variants may feature stand-up collars of the
type known to tailors and seamstresses as "mandarin" collars. These are the same sort of
collars seen on achkans, sherwanis, and Nehru jackets.
Kurtas worn in the summer months are usually made of thin silk or cotton fabrics; winter
season kurtas are made of thicker fabric such as wool or "Khadi silk", a thick, coarse,
handspun and handwoven silk that may be mixed with other fibers. A very common fabric for
the kurta pajama is linen, or a linen-cotton mix ideal for both summers and winters.