Study report:

 Beam drawing is the first process. We studied about the drawing procedure in both
the looms.

 First they tied the bottom twine threads in the return weight rod for the required
hooks, it takes 8-12 hrs for 4000 rods per person. This time consuming is same for
both looms. The difference is the return rods shape. Smooth rods are using for
electronic jacquard and knurling rod for ordinary jacquard. Smooth rods are high cost
than knurling rods. The weight of the rods is varying from 6gms to 15gms according
to the structure and no.of ends of the fabric.

 Secondly they are tying the top twine threads in the jacquard hooks, it takes 4-6 hrs
per 2 persons. Each hook have multiple cord 8 or 9 according to the no.of ends in
the design. Then the twine threads are drawn through the guides and tied with return
weight rod threads.

 Now they are drawing the warp yarns through the jacquard twine threads by end to
end , 2 in 1, 3 in 1, or 4 in 1 according to the their convenient. Normally end to end
drawing is not preferable in ordinary jacquard due to more work force in operating
the jacquard. The time taken for drawing the warp yarn is approximately 2-3 days.

 The total time taken to start up a design fabric in the loom is about 4-5 days by 2
manpower of 8 hrs in day.

 There is no much difference in beam drawing process and time consumption

between electronic jacquard and ordinary jacquard.

 DESIGNING PART:

1. In electronic jacquard the designing charge for a medium design is

approximately Rs.2000/-

2. In ordinary jacquard the designing charge for a medium design

including design development, card, card punches and stitches is
approximately Rs. 6000 to 8000 /-

 Time taken to install the design on loom:

1. Normally a silk saree have 4 set of design like 2 border in pallu and
one set of self between the border, body and selvedge. Hence 4 set
of design cards are required for ordinary Jacquard.Every design we
have to change the cards accordingly. Each set of card installation
takes 30 to 40 minutes. Skilled persons(2) required to install the
cards in the machine.

2. In Electronic jacquard all the above patterns programmed in a single

file and transfer in to the Electronic jacquard board with a specific
 name. There is No cards in this system. Here the time to install the
design is just click the file name only.

 Productivity:

1. In electronic Jacquard at normal working of hand loom in design

part operator can insert an average of 8 -10 picks per minutes and
31 picks per minute for ordinary weave.

2. In ordinary jacquard operator can insert 4.5 picks per minutes in

design part and same as 31 picks per miutes for ordinary as per
the study. Here the force required is more while design part
weaving.

3. The time taken to produce one saree in electronic jacquard is 3

working days of 8 hrs in a day. In ordinary jacquard the time for
one saree is about 4-5 days.(8 hrs working)

Comaprision:

As per the study the following tabulation shows the comparision between eletronic
and ordinary jacquard hand loom:

S.No Particulars Ordinary Jacquard Electronic Jacquard

Production

1 4-5 days to produce a 3 days to produce a medium

medium type design saree design saree

Advantage

2 Cost lower, but wooden Cost is higher. Steel structure and

frames compact

Flexibility

3 Hard to operate due to more User friendly. Just press pedal to

physical force operate the jacquard.

4 2 jacquard machine for body Single jacquard is enough for

and selvedge body as well as selvedge.

5 Extendable hooks not Up to 480 hooks possible in the

possible in the same same structure
structure

6 Every set of design in a Here only a click to change

 saree, we have to change
and install the cards
accordingly

7 Time consuming is more to Time is in seconds to change the

change design. design. Nearly 3 hours have been
saved per saree and also man power
in every set of design in a saree to
install the cards

8 At an average of 8 kilogram Very negligible force required to

work force required to operate
operate a design pick

9 Operator has getting fatigue Easily to work about 10 hrs in a day

while running more than 5 due to power force
hours in a day due to
thousands of kilogram force
required.

10 Interchangeable of design left Easily possible.

to right or right to left is not
possible

11 Even one card broken skilled No card

operator is required to correct
and fix the cord

Monetary
benefits

12 Designing, card and card Designing cost is about Rs 2000/-

setting cost is about Rs.6000 per design. Nearly about a saving of
to Rs 8000/- per design Rs.4000 per design.

13 Once the design style is over The design can save in the computer
all the cards are getting board and recall at any time.
wasted (400 to 600 card).
Nearly about Rs 4000/-
( card, card punching and
stitching charges)

14 40 man hours required to Here 24 man hours required to

produce a saree produce a saree and saving of 16
man hours which works out a saving
of 12 man days and Rs.7200/- per
month(Considering Wage of
 Rs.600/day) in one loom

15 Payback period for the jacquard

within 6-8 months time.

16 Power consumption is about 0.1875

Kw per hour/loom and the unit
consumption is nearly about 1 unit
/day/ loom.(8 hrs @70%eff).Power
cost comes about Rs. 6,50 per day
per loom.

Scope

17 Jacquard becomes user friendly

which creates and motivates
traditional young hand loom weavers.
Hence the handloom work is still alive
in the Global market.

18 Morality of the operator has

improved and getting interest in
continuing the job