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Yangon Echoes: Inside Heritage Homes
Yangon Echoes: Inside Heritage Homes
Yangon Echoes: Inside Heritage Homes
Yangon Echoes
Bobby Bendani with a ‘Dangerous Building’ notice on one of Yangon’s once elegant buildings. This building has since been demolished.
Y
Curators: Virginia Henderson,
Yangon Echoes invites viewers behind known as Burma, is confronting the cultural diversity and individual
the facades of century-old colonial juggernaut of global capital after fifty everyday lived experiences, revealing
buildings, inside heritage homes, to years of isolation under socialist the vulnerabilities and pressures on
explore the lives of people living in the military rule. Yangon’s people and its heritage
city formerly known as Rangoon. Encountering this sudden turn- today.
This exhibition explores notions around, Yangon residents are grappling The storytellers share thoughts
and values of heritage and home at a with these questions: What is the role and feelings, speaking of joy and
time of unprecedented change. It of heritage at such a time of profound tragedy, simple pleasures and aching
presents intimate views of domestic political, economic and social change? issues. Told with courage and charm,
life while tracing the emergence of What do heritage and home mean to the informal stories of home offer in-
this city from decades of stagnation each of us? How are we informed by sight into what has happened and is
to its engagement with a rapidly the past and what are our means for happening to the city.
globalizing world. survival amidst the challenges of This exhibition, a popular history
Today, Yangon is probably changing great flux? of buildings, charts social space and
more quickly than any other urban Yangon Echoes, an oral history urban folklore, linking past to present
space in the world. Myanmar, formerly listening project, investigates multi- via living memories.
Engineers, doctors and most of the high-
ranking administrators in the Secretariat,
the seat of British administration, were
Indian Hindus and Moslems. Much of
Yangon’s business community was also
Indian. Textiles were managed by people
from Rajasthan and Memon. Gold,
diamond and jewelry businesses were
run by Gujaratis, who also handled rice
milling. Hardware was the domain of
people from Surat who ran Yangon’s
Surti Bazaar, today the central market,
Theingyi Zay. Wealthy Chinese migrated
to Yangon rather than the Philippines,
Singapore or Malaysia. Hokkien traders
and Cantonese businessmen were
drawn to emerging opportunities.
Through personal stories, this
CONSTRUCTION OF OVERPASS AT SHWE GON DAING exhibition reveals a ‘living history’ of
Diverse Yangon
the country since WWII, as told by the
storytellers, most of the elders, living
in Yangon’s heritage places.
A gathering point, melting pot and great Some storytellers recall the
place to call home, Yangon is heralded devastating bombings of Yangon
as a city of diversity and tolerance. by both Japanese and British forces
Through waves of migration, the city during World War II, scattering residents
has absorbed people of different faiths and leaving a once fine city in tatters.
bringing their spiritual beliefs and With Burma on the cusp of becoming
religious practices. People of many independent of British rule, optimism
Layers of Time
U AUNG LIN, LATHA STREET
nationalities have played their part in soon turned to tragedy. Everyone of age
Yangon’s development. in this country remembers exactly what
Vibrant and multicultural, Yangon they were doing around half past ten
became one of the most cosmopolitan When the British invaded Burma in the on the morning of 19th July 1947, when
cities in the British Empire. Lively and 1850s, Yangon was a small, swampy General Aung San and six of his cabinet
diverse neighborhoods continue to settlement but a strategic river port members in waiting were assassinated.
define this city today. Buddhist pagodas, hosting the Shwedagon Pagoda, Fractured shoots of democracy were
Shia and Sunni mosques, a Jewish Myanmar’s most important shrine. eliminated by General Ne Win’s coup
synagogue, Roman Catholic and The colonists set about draining and d’état in 1962. Installing a centralized
Anglican cathedrals, Hindu, Chinese, dredging the sinking sandy land and a economy on a nationalist mission,
Parsi, Jain and Bahá’í temples nestle grid plan was laid out to form the city the socialist government wiped out
alongside one another downtown. center. Merchant houses, banks and companies and trading houses
insurance companies, many from overnight, appropriating all buildings,
Scotland and Glasgow in particular, land and inventory listed as the property
established themselves and commis- of private businesses. Many foreigners
sioned elegant Victorian buildings for were obliged to leave the country at
their offices designed by leading
architects of the day. Rangoon grew
into a sophisticated hub of global trade,
thriving on exports of rice, teak and oil.
Emigrating Indians and Chinese
moved to Burma. The British brought
indentured labor from India. Rice field
workers came from South India, Tamils
MIRAFLORES, BUILT 1891 from Madras. People from Bihar worked
the sugarcane plantations. Wealthy
Chettiar moneylenders soon owned
seventy percent of agricultural land.
ARIAL ROOTS OF A BANYAN TREE ON NATMAUK ROAD
short notice. Nationalization had painful
consequences. For decades, citizens
were forced to endure harsh living
conditions imposed by the regime.
Since 2011 when the country
opened up, the trickle of international
investment has become a flood. Post-
colonial transitions and modernizations
unfolding over decades in much of Asia
now stun Myanmar. Enduring more than
a century, many of Yangon’s antique
buildings and the stories that go with
them are being erased in the rush to
modernize.
Myanmar
Samuels, Lynne Najita, Kennedy & Preiss Graphic Transition” by Miemie Winn Byrd, Asia- UH Mānoa Orvis Auditorium
Design, Leilani Ng, Colorprints Inc., Nancy Hulbirt, Pacific Center for Security Studies.
Marionette Theatre
Brooks Bays, Jr., SOEST, Ann Hartman, Meril Fujiki,
Jennifer Leger, Shayne Hasegawa, Derek Ferrar, Sunday, March 19, 2:00–3:00 p.m.
Phyllis Tabusa, Lucy Kamealoha, Deanna O’Brien, Illustrated Talk: “The Role of Women in
Tina Tom, Patsy Hiraoka, Marie Ebesu, EWC Myanmar Culture” by Miemie Winn Byrd, The Myanmar Marionette Theatre
Facilities Management, and all the generous Asia-Pacific Center for Security Studies. is at the forefront of restoring the
contributors to the book Yangon Echoes. Saturday & Sunday, April 1 & 2 enchanting 18th c. Burmese puppet
(See Performance at right.) tradition and developing a new
generation of artists and audiences.
Sunday, April 23, 2:00–3:00 p.m. Suitable for children and adults,
Illustrated Talk: “Hawai‘i-Myanmar the performance will showcase
K-12 Education Partnerships” by Karen puppeteers accompanied by live
Knudsen, Director of East-West Center traditional music.
External Affairs, Jeremiah Brown, ESL Tickets available Feb. 1,
Coordinator, Waipahu High School, see website for details.
Sean Hamamura, Special Education
Teacher/Language Arts, Mililani High
School and Gerry Kolbeck, Technology East-West Center Gallery
John A. Burns Hall, 1601 East-West Road
Coordinator, Lunalilo Elementary School.
(corner Dole St. & East-West Rd.)
Sunday, May 7, 2:00–3:30 p.m. Gallery admission is free.
This exhibition is made possible by The Hawaii Film: “Burma VJ: Reporting from a Hours: Open Weekdays 8:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m.
Pacific Rim Society; Richard H. Cox; Aqua- Closed Country” is a 2008 documentary and Sundays Noon–4:00 p.m.
Aston Hospitality; Sony Hawaii Company; film directed by Anders Ostergaard. Closed Saturdays, Feb. 20, Apr. 16, May 29
and Friends of Hawaii Charities, Inc. It follows the Saffron Revolution against Parking on the UH-Mānoa campus is normally
the military regime in Burma. free and ample on Sundays.
The EWC Arts Program is supported by EWC Arts ‘Ohana
Sunday, May 21, 2:00–3:00 p.m. Free school & group tours available
members, Jean E. Rolles, Jackie Chan Foundation USA,
and other generous donors. Talk: “Strategic Importance of For further information: 944-7177
Myanmar” by Colonel (retired) William arts@EastWestCenter.org
Dickey, former U.S. Defense Attaché in http://arts.EastWestCenter.org
http://arts.EastWestCenter.org
Myanmar and Miemie Winn Byrd, Asia- Find us on Facebook
Pacific Center for Security Studies. and Instagram: EWC_arts
Printed with soy based inks on recycled paper