Ephrem Final Proposal Edited

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Faculty of manufacturing

Department of industrial engineering

“IMPROVING FABRIC UTILIZATION IN ALMEDA TEXTILE”

HOST COMPANY: ALMEDA TEXTILE AND GARMENT PLC


DURATION OF THE INTERNSHIP: (March 25 –July 25)

PREPARED BY: EPHREM DESSALEGN


ID CARD: 0649/08
ACADEMIC ADVISOR: SAHELE MEKTIE
COMPANY ADVISOR: KIBROM .G

SUBMISSION DATE: OCTOBER 7 2019


SUBMITTED TO:

i
Declaration
I Ephrem Dessalegn a fourth year industrial engineering student, have undertaken my
internship experience in Almeda textile and garment P.L.C. For four month under guidance
of instructor Mr. Sahle Mektie (academic advisor) and Mr. Kibrom .G (company advisor).

I declared that this internship report entitled IMPROVING FABRIC UTILIZATION IN


ALMEDA TEXTILE is submitted by me. I assure that the report contains actual data and
project I assigned to work on my intern ship staying. The content of the report is my own and
has not been submitted to any other university or institute.

Name of academic advisor Signature Date

Sahle Mektie ________ __________

Name of the student Signature Date

Ephrem Dessalegn ________ __________

ii
Acknowledgement
First and for most I would like to thank to the almighty GOD. And also I would like to give
my warmest love and appreciation to my family and friends for their endless support for me
when I need them while staying in the internship program.

I want to thank heartily and deeply to my academic advisor instructor Sahle mektie for his
continuous support so I can able to accomplish my internship paper.

I want to give ma best regards to Engineer Samuel G/her, Tadesse, Yohannes, Mikiyas and
all ALMEDA employs.

Finally, I am very great full to MR. Tewodros g/medhin for being a modal to my product
samples

iii
Executive summery
This project covers my internship practice which I have been working in ALMEDA
TEXTILE P.L.C from March, 2019 up to June, 2019 for the past four months. This report has
different section and discusses main departments and section in the hosting company
including its history, its market, customer, overall industry condition, our overall internship
experience, tasks and the procedures we followed, the practical and theoretical knowledge we
gained

iv
ABSTRACT
Part one discuss about the hosting company historical background, its
customer, products, location, mission, vision, organizational structure and,
departmental responsibility, the communication format between departments.
And also it discuss the overall benefits and special activities (practical activates
working during outstanding time) that I have gained from this internship
program.
part two discuss about the project that I have been working on new product
development using knitting fabric wastage, the project contains project title,
project statement, objective of the project, methodology, method, then after it
continues to tell the data collection and analysis methods to accomplish the
project work.
Plus it discuss the Conclusion and recommendations of the company

v
Table of contents

DECLARATION ................................................................................................................................... II
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT .................................................................................................................... III
EXECUTIVE SUMMERY ................................................................................................................... IV
ABSTRACT........................................................................................................................................... V
LIST OF FIGURES ........................................................................................................................... VIII
LIST OF TABLES ............................................................................................................................. VIII
PART ONE-COMPANY PROFILE ....................................................................................................... 1
CHAPTER-ONE ..................................................................................................................................... 1
1. BACK GROUND OF ALMEDA TEXTILS PLC .............................................................................. 1
1.1. BRIEF HISTORY OF THE COMPANY ..................................................................................... 1
1.2 OBJECTIVES OF THE COMPANY: ........................................................................................... 1
1.3 MISSION OF THE COMPANY: ..................................................................................................... 2
1.4. VISSION OF THE COMPANY:.................................................................................................. 2
1.4.1. Core Values ........................................................................................................................... 2
1.5. COMPANY’S MAIN PRODUCTS ............................................................................................. 2
1.5.1. Types of ALTEX products .................................................................................................... 3
1.6 COMPANYS MAIN CUSTOMER............................................................................................... 3
1.7. ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE OF ALTEX DEPARTMENT........................................... 4
1.8 RESPONSIBILITIES .................................................................................................................... 5
1.9 WORK FLOW OF THE ORGANIZATION ................................................................................. 6
1.10. DEPARTMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY OF ALMEDA TEXTILE PLC .................................. 7
1.10.1. Marketing ............................................................................................................................ 7
1.10.2. Supply Chain Management ................................................................................................. 7
1.10.3. Production Planning & Control........................................................................................... 7
1.10.4. Finance ................................................................................................................................ 8
1.10.5. Quality Control Department................................................................................................ 9
CHAPTER TWO .................................................................................................................................. 10
2 OVER ALL INTERNSHIP EXPRIANCE ........................................................................................ 10
2.1 HOW I GET INTO THE COMPANY .................................................................................................. 10
2.2 SECTION OF THE COMPANY I HAVE BEEN WORKING .................................................................... 10
2.2.1 Fabric Store .......................................................................................................................... 10
2.2.2 ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE OF GARMENT DEPARTMENT ........................... 11
2.2.3. Accessories store ................................................................................................................. 12
2.2.4. Design and Sampling room ................................................................................................. 12
2.2.5. Spreading & Cutting Department ....................................................................................... 14
2.2.6. Sewing Department ............................................................................................................. 16
2.2.7. Finishing Department .......................................................................................................... 19
2.2.8. Finished Goods Store .......................................................................................................... 21
2.3 THE WORK TASK I HAVE BEEN EXCECUTING ................................................................. 22
2.4 PROCEDURES AND METHODS I HAVE BEEN USING WHILE PERFORMING MY
TASKS .............................................................................................................................................. 22
2.5 CHALLENGES OR LIMITATION OF THE STUDY ............................................................... 22

vi
2.6 TOOL AND MEASURES USED TO SOLVE MY PROBLEMS .............................................. 23
CHAPTER THREE .............................................................................................................................. 24
3 OVERALL BENEFITS I GAINED FROM THE INTERNSHIP EXPERIENCE ............................ 24
3.1. INTERNSHIP EXPERIENCE ........................................................................................................... 24
3.2. BENEFITS I GAINED FROM INTERNSHIPS ..................................................................................... 24
3.2.1 Improving practical skill ...................................................................................................... 25
3.2.2 Upgrading theoretical knowledge skill ................................................................................ 25
3.2.3 Improving interpersonal communication ............................................................................. 26
3.2.4 Improving team playing skill ............................................................................................... 27
3.2.5 Improving leadership skill ................................................................................................... 27
3.2.6 Understanding about work ethics issue issues ..................................................................... 27
3.2.7 Gaining of entrepreneurship skill ......................................................................................... 28
3.2.8 Improving industrial problem solving capability ................................................................. 28
PART TWO- PROJECT WORK .......................................................................................................... 29
CHAPTER ONE ................................................................................................................................... 29
1. IMPROVING FABRIC UTILIZATION IN ALMEDA TEXTILE.................................................. 29
1.1. BACK GROUD.......................................................................................................................... 29
1.1.1. Marker loss.......................................................................................................................... 29
1.1.2. Spreading loss ..................................................................................................................... 30
1.2. PROBLEM STATEMENT ........................................................................................................ 31
1.3. OBJECTIVE .............................................................................................................................. 32
2.3.1. General objective ................................................................................................................ 32
2.3.2. Specific objective ................................................................................................................ 32
CHAPTER TWO .............................................................................................................................. 33
2 METHODOLOGY ............................................................................................................................ 33
2.1 DATA COLLECTION METHODOLOGY ............................................................................................ 33
2.1.1Primary data: ......................................................................................................................... 33
2.1.2 Secondary data ..................................................................................................................... 34
CHAPTER THREE .............................................................................................................................. 35
3 LITERATURE REVIEW .................................................................................................................. 35
CHAPTER FOUR................................................................................................................................. 39
4. DATA COLLECION AND ANALYSIS ......................................................................................... 39
4.1. DATA COLLECTION ..................................................................................................................... 39
4.2 DATA ANALYSIS .......................................................................................................................... 44
4.3 GENERALIZATION IN CURRENT WASTE KNITTING FABRIC .......................................................... 48
4.4 NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT .................................................................................................... 49
4.5 PHOTO AND PATTERN OF THE NEW PRODUCT SAMPLE ................................................................ 50
4.6 AFTER NEW PRODUCT APPLIED ................................................................................................... 51
CHAPTER FIVE .................................................................................................................................. 57
5.1 CONCLUSION ........................................................................................................................... 57
5.2 RECOMMENDATION .............................................................................................................. 58
5.3 REFERENCE .............................................................................................................................. 59
5.4 APPENDIX: ................................................................................................................................ 60

vii
LIST OF FIGURES
FIGURE 1 ALTEX plc. ................................................................................................................................ 1
Figure 2 company products .................................................................................................................... 2
Figure 3 general organizational structure of ALTEX................................................................................ 4
Figure 4 Working flow of ALTEX .............................................................................................................. 6
Figure 5 PPC work process ...................................................................................................................... 8
Figure 6 fabric store ............................................................................................................................ 10
Figure 7 general structure of garment department of ALTEX .............................................................. 11
Figure 8 Accessories store room ........................................................................................................... 12
Figure 9 Design and sampling room...................................................................................................... 12
Figure 10 designing and sampling room flow chart .............................................................................. 13
Figure 11 Spreading and Cutting department ................................................................................. 14
Figure 12 cutting room flow chart ........................................................................................................ 15
Figure 13 Sewing room ........................................................................................................................ 16
Figure 14 Finishing (embroidery, washing and packing) ...................................................................... 19
Figure 15 finishing room flow chart ...................................................................................................... 20
Figure 16 Finishing good store room .................................................................................................... 21
Figure 17 Measuring waste fabric using weight and tape measurement ............................................ 23
Figure 18 Percent of wasted and utilized fabric ................................................................................... 45
Figure 19 Types of wastes ..................................................................................................................... 47
Figure 20 developing new product from discarded fabric.................................................................... 49

LIST OF TABLES
Table 1 company main customers ........................................................................................................... 3
Table 2 Accessory sourcing regions ..................................................................................................... 12
Table 3 Cutting machine list ............................................................................................................ 14
Table 4 cutting machine list .................................................................................................................. 17
Table 5 Fabric consumption.................................................................................................................. 21
Table 6 waste in Kg batch no 33 ........................................................................................................... 39
Table 7 Waste in Kg batch no =25........................................................................................................ 40
Table 8 Waste in Kg batch no =35........................................................................................................ 40
Table 9 Waste in Kg batch no =36........................................................................................................ 41
Table 10 Waste in Kg batch no =27...................................................................................................... 41
Table 11 Waste in Kg batch no =28...................................................................................................... 41
Table 12 Waste in Kg batch no =29...................................................................................................... 42
Table 13 Waste in Kg batch no =26...................................................................................................... 42
Table 14 Waste in Kg batch no =30...................................................................................................... 43
Table 15 Average waste fabric in kg .................................................................................................... 44
Table 16 current wastage per t shirt ...................................................................................................... 47
Table 17 current waste knit fabric in birr .............................................................................................. 48
Table 18 PHOTO AND PATTERN OF THE NEW PRODUCT SAMPLE ........................................ 50
Table 19 Cost after new product applied .............................................................................................. 51
Table 20: Wtandard minute value for making one t-shirt ..................................................................... 52
Table 21: Thread consumption for one t-shirt ...................................................................................... 55
Table 22: Labour and thread costs per year .......................................................................................... 55
Table 23 Result ..................................................................................................................................... 56

viii
PART ONE-COMPANY PROFILE

CHAPTER-ONE

1. BACK GROUND OF ALMEDA TEXTILS PLC

FIGURE 1 ALTEX plc.


1.1. BRIEF HISTORY OF THE COMPANY:
ALMEDA textiles private limited company (ALTEX) is a private company established in
accordance with the commercial code of Ethiopia with a share capital of 180,000,000 Birr
in1989. The factory is located 7 km from the center of Adwa town on the main road to Axum.
The town of Adwa is located at a distance of 1006kms and 233kms from Addis Ababa and
Mekelle, capital of Tigray regional government respectively. ALTEX is standing proudly in
the middle of beautiful mountains. There is an access road covering 280kms from port of
Massawa via Asmara capital of Eretria. There is an air strip capable of handling small planes
at Axum, 20kms from the factory site and 1521 km far from dire dawa. Apart from other
alternatives the factory is directly linked to the main port of Djibouti for Import /Export
incident

1.2 OBJECTIVES OF THE COMPANY:


The company is established to accomplish the following business.

 To produce threads yarns and cloths from cotton, polyester, and their blend.
 To produce clothing materials for personnel and house hold uses.
 To engage in agricultural activities where becomes necessary for its Business.
 To engage in any other trade necessary to the achievement of its business.

1
1.3 MISSION OF THE COMPANY:
The mission statement originates from the “total customer satisfaction “For the value added
products based on Research and development and creating a hub for excellence in the textile
field in Africa in general and Ethiopia in Particular.

Generally, the mission of the company includes:

 To make profit by competing in the global market.


 To generate foreign exchange by increasing export.
 To create employment opportunities to the community.
 To have sustainable production capacity and contribute in the development of the
foreign and the country.

1.4. VISSION OF THE COMPANY:


Develop Almeda as a reference for Ethiopian Textile and Garmenting industry and create the
conditioned that Almeda can become leader in the Ethiopian market in terms of export and
local market sales.

1.4.1. Core Values


- Customer satisfaction - Reliability

- Commitment - Good governance

1.5. COMPANY’S MAIN PRODUCTS

Figure 2 company products

2
1.5.1. Types of ALTEX products
- Basic T-shirt - Polo shirt

- Classical shirt - Classical trouser

- Work wear - Military uniform

- Jeans - Bed sheet

- Bed cover - Capes

1.6 COMPANYS MAIN CUSTOMER


Table 1 company main customers

Local cu s to me r Foreign cu s to me r

Location Bran d Location

Defense ministry Ethiopia Condo r IT A LY

Regional police “ Bem apparel US A

Federal police “ Edwards US A

Royal foam “ Tsi US A

Gun a pl c. “ Kopperman GERMA NY

Adam a garment “ Vitco n pl c S UDA N

victon “ champro US A

3
1.7. ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE OF ALTEX DEPARTMENT
GENARAL LEGAL ADVISOR
MANAGER

INTERN
AL

SECRETARY

PRODUCTION&TECHN ADMINISTRATION
ICAL DGM COMMERCIAL DGM DGM

Human
Planning & product Resource
Dev’t Finance
Dep’t
Dep’t

Spinning Department Marketing G/service Dep’t


Dep’t
Weaving
Supply Dep’t
Department Almeda Training
Branch Center
Knitting Department Office System Dev’t

Woven processing

Garment Department

Engineering Dep’t

QC Department

Technique R&D Dep’t

Knit processing Dep’t

Figure 3 general organizational structure of ALTEX

4
1.8 RESPONSIBILITIES
 General Manager: guides, controls and give commands for its branch and Control overall
activity in the company.

 Legal advisor: it’s for consulting/advising if there is a related issues around laws and
rules.

 Internal auditor: audit the financial and product of the company.

 Production and technical DGM: works as behalf of manager for the technical and
production sector.

 Commercial DGM: control all the activity of financial and supply of the Company.

 Planning and product development: it plans the production capacity and assignment of
each department according production orders.

 Engineering department: works on modification of materials, spare parts, controlling of


energy supply line, works on maintenance planning, repairing of rooms like civil, and
repairing of motors.
 Technique & Research dep’t: it is a research and development on techniques (ways of
simple aspect) in the factory.

 Finance department: control and study payment & custom clearance and cost analysis.

 Marketing department: control sales, study cost or price of product and promotion of
product.
 Supply department: purchasing of materials depend on department demand and distribute
accordingly.
 Branch office: works on financial, supply and HR activities.
 Human resource development: promotions, annual leaves control discipline of community
in the company.
 Garment department: Material comes from processing & knitting used the colorized
fabrics departments & converted to different types of cloths & other out puts based on
customer order or designed.

5
1.9 WORK FLOW OF THE ORGANIZATION

Raw Material

Spinning Department

Weaving Department
Knitting departments

Knit Dying Department departments Processing Departments

Garment departments

Finishing Product Store

Figure 4 Working flow of ALTEX

6
1.10. DEPARTMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY OF ALMEDA TEXTILE PLC.

1.10.1. Marketing
In ALTEX the Merchandizing department merged with marketing department and the
division called "marketing department". They act as mutual responsible for

 To check whether the product is done according to the specification


 Coordinate methods to increase accuracy of information and reduce cycle times.
 Implement appropriate communication technology, like e mail telephone etc.
 Evaluate effectiveness of programs and implement improvements.

In marketing department there is marketing manager. Under this chief there are three head
departments, they are research and development head, export sells head and domestic sales
head. Under export and domestic seals they have their Owen merchandizing team.

1.10.2. Supply Chain Management


Supply chain management have two branches, they are supply and purchasing. IPC, chief of
store and store keeper are under supply. There are a lot of stores that included in chief of
store, for example: general item, finished goods (knit and woven), knit and woven garment,
spare part stores. Purchasing includes three types purchaser they are: senior, junior and
normal, they purchase from local and foreign and they are under purchasing head.

1.10.3. Production Planning & Control


Concerned with the logistics problems in manufacturing: Managing the details of what, when,
and how many products to produce and obtaining the raw materials, parts, and resources to
produce them. Work producer of PPC is as follows

7
Receive POS (production order status) from marketing and consumptions from
sampling
Send PO (production order) if knitting: to spinning, circular kiting, knit dying,
knit garment department; if woven: to spinning, weaving, processing
&garment departments and inform departments like quality, marketing
&supply
Send MR (material requisition) to supply for accessory

Follow for accessory to arrive at delivery date

Send Cutting action plan for cutting department

Make target per line

Evaluate target per line weather they perform according to the plan. if not improve to
reach the delivery date

Figure 5 PPC work process

1.10.4. Finance
The basic activity done in finance division is making total cost of the product by considering
the following points

Fabric costs: main fabric, lining, fusing, pocketing materials, bie/piping’s


Accessories costs: zippers, threads, labels (woven & non-woven & leathers
& other materials), elastics, hang-tags, poly bags, rivets, buttons, snap-
fasters, Velcro
Pre-production costs: execute samples, patterns, markers, purchasing and all
other administrative costs with pre-production teams
Research & development costs
Manufacturing costs: cutting, sewing, finishing, washing & dyeing,
embroidery &Printing
Logistic costs: boxes, containers, shipping/transportation, custom clearance
Administrative costs: managerial/overheads costs, financial costs (credits,
investments), building, marketing, etc.

8
1.10.5. Quality Control Department
Quality control is one of the major departments in any garment factory
Cutting In Line QC Activities:
They control quality of

 Check the marker 100%withthe original pattern (pp)


 Spread at randomly and with the help of spreader
 Cut component
 Lay width, NO of layer, alignment, length…
 Marker width, NO of parts, notch
 Each component whether they properly notched, cutting line accuracy
 Check the starting and ending NO’s after numbering

In Line Quality Controller’s Activities

They have to have technical files which support to control every parameter like stitch type,
seam type, SPI, sewing thread type etc. according to the customer requirement. Inline quality
controller control things like stitch defect, seam defect, accessory defect, sewing thread
defect, cleanness of the machine to protect stains, dusts Templates etc.

End Line Quality Controller

They have to have technical files which support to control every parameter like stitch type,
seam type, SPI, sewing thread type etc. according to the customer requirement. Inline quality
controller control things like stitch defect, seam defect, accessory Defect, sewing thread
defect, cleanness of the machine to protect stains, dusts templates etc.

Finishing Quality Controller

Checks for pressing defects [Maintain the original texture of the fabric, Show no shine or
press marks on the right side of the fabric, Have no wrinkles or crinkled areas, Have seams
and darts pressed smoothly on the stitching line, so that the fabric does not fold over the
stitching line or look bubbled, Edges of seam allowances and fold edges of darts do not form
ridges on the right side of the garment, Have no water-spot or steam marks, help create and
maintain the proper shape and curve to the garment and the various garment segments(collar,
sleeve ,etc.)], Defects which pass from off-line , Folding, on packing trims, packing
assortment.

9
CHAPTER TWO

2 OVER ALL INTERNSHIP EXPRIANCE


2.1 How I get into the company
My hosting company was ALMEDA textiles private limited company (ALTEX), which was
described in the above section in detail. This company was one of the companies which
accept students for four month internship programs from all universities and one of the
companies which is found in my city. So when I go to home after finishing my third year
class, I took the application paper from my department and applied to different companies in
my city. Then when I came to my University after 3 month summer break, I had to check
which company accepted my application and I was accepted in most of the companies where
I enter my application paper. And then I decided to join ALMEDA textiles private limited
company (ALTEX) because it was a big company, also near to my place where I live and I
found peoples who work there who can help me to get access to ground work. This was the
way I get into the company.

2.2 section of the company i have been working


In my hosting company there were a lot of sectors that they accept students for internship.
And then they did assign me on the GARMEN DEPARTMENT which they think it is
directly related with my department and they were right most of the engineers in that
department were graduated in industrial engineering and it made it easy to me to get help
from them.

The Garment department contain the following section with their flow charts:-

2.2.1 Fabric Store


To feed garment section there are to fabric store inside the factory and there is third option
i.e. if the fabric is coming from the customer. Knit dying & woven processing. When the
fabric is received from processing department there is fabric identification card which uses to
distinguish the fabric status

Figure 6 fabric store

10
2.2.2 ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE OF GARMENT DEPARTMENT

Garment
manager

Peon
Satellite store
Keeper

Design & Garment Maintena Woven Knit garment head


Sampling Engineeri nce head garment
head ng head head

Pattern
Maintenance Needle man
Supervisor
makers
Mech lll Electric
Sampling supervisor
head
Mech ll Electric ll

Engineering
Officer Mech ll Electric

Garment
Production
Technician

Garment
time
Study officer

Figure 7 general structure of garment department of ALTEX

11
2.2.3. Accessories store

Figure 8 Accessories store room

In ALMEDA garmenting section accessories can be imported from different areas as per
quality quantity and availability of the material, for e.g. If the product is for local customer it
may be purchase from ADISS ABEBA, but if the product is for exporting they import from
high quality accessory suppler. Mostly accessories for local product purchase from
MRKATO market like MELS, Bethlehem, accessory suppliers.

Table 2 Accessory sourcing regions

S /n Accessory type Supplier Sourcing region s


1 Button P rime trader P akist an
2 Zipper Prime trader P akist an
3 W oven/satin lab el Harmancietiket
4 Han g t a g/ sticker Tecetiket
5 W oven/satin lab el Dizaynetiket
6 Carton box ganesh.c US
7 Zipper Merkato market Addis Ababa
8 S pun polyester sewing thread Gercek glob al Ortaginiz Turk e y
9 Mercerized sewing t hread TS E Turk e y

2.2.4. Design and Sampling room

Figure 9 Design and sampling room

12
Sampling department has enough man power to produce even by designing in side factory
but they don’t develop a product as expected to make the factory productive. if the ware able
to produce styles in side factory even only for the end, remnant losses and others like end bit,
defected roll etc. it was a great change for the factory

Start

Receive sample request order with full information from buyer

Identify trims & accessory required by marketing

Insuring available of trims & accessories by marketing

No
Are the trims Communicate with buyer or use
Supply dep’t the most similar trims &
available in house?
accessory

Prepare sample requisition indent (SRI) by marketing

Prepare sample bag by incorporating original sample, tech pack, SRI, photo
measurement etc. by marketing

Release order to garment dep’t by marketing

Does the order have Return sample bag to


sufficient info? marketing

Deliver order to sample room

Receive row material by sample room & design dept. Qc dep’t.

Execute sampling process Qc dep’t.


Figure 10 designing and sampling room flow chart
Deliver sample bag to marketing
13

End
2.2.5. Spreading & Cutting Department

Figure 11 Spreading and Cutting department

Table 3 Cutting machine list

Type o f m/ c Lo c al M/c Status


cod e Operation al Non operational
Total
Negaishing ban d knife cutting m/c 2 2 4
Estiman cloth drilling 0 2 2
Estima n hot nocher 4 0 4
Estiman blue strike 1 0 '' 0 4 4

Estima n blue strike 8 ' 'stright 8 4 12


S VEGE A binding cutting 2 1 3
S VEGE A tube se win g unit for 0 1 1
sewing o pen fabric
S VGE A bi as cutter winder 0 1 1
LA CTR A spreading m/c 1 2 3
LA CTR A spreading m/c 0 1 1
Spreading Machine 0 3 3
HAS H IMA fusing 6 0 6
Ngiashing P in table 1 .8*6m 0 4 4
Total 23 25 48

14
Objective:
• Cutting according to the master patterns with 100% accuracy.
• Supply sufficient volume to keep the sewing room supplied with work.

Figure 12 cutting room flow chart

Design Fabric manufacturer

Get marker Get fabric

Ok Check fabric
Fabric spread
quality

Check marker Ok
quality Fabric cutting
No

Numbering Send back to process

Send back to marker Check cut panels


maker for accuracy Send back to cutting
quality

Yes

Bundling

Check if No
Input to sewing Check if
embroidery
fusing

Yes Yes

Make embroidery & bundle it Make fusing & bundle it


15
Numbering & Bundling:
After the layer is cut the cut pieces are sorted out according to the different rolls. The sleeves,
back, front, and placket pieces of one roll are kept together and the sticker which was used
during the laying of the layers is sticked on the cut pieces accordingly and the pieces are
bundled. A job card (bundle ticket card) is attaché d to every bundle. This job card contains
all the information about the bundle and plays an important role till the packing of the
garment is done.

Fusing:
Fusing is done for components the placket, cuff, collar of the shirts. Different styles have
different requirement for fusing according to their fiber type, brand etc.

2.2.6. Sewing Department

Figure 13 Sewing room

16
Table 4 cutting machine list

Type o f m/ c M/c Status

Lo c al cod e Total

Operation al Non op e ration al

1 needle, lockstitch M/c S N LS 640 102 742

2 Needle, lockstitch M/c DN LS 41 0 41

Over lock/ safety stitch M/C 3TH 45 63 108

4 TH 55 22 77

5 TH 96 47 143

Cove r stitch M/c 3TH flat lock 2 8 10

Piping 4 0 4

Flat lock singlet 7 0 7

3TH/4 TH 0 9 9

Chain stitch M/ c S NCS 48 0 48

DNCS 32 9 41

2 DNCS 6 4 10

F. O.A 42 26 68

BLM 3 1 4

4KA NS A L 4 5 9

2 KA NS A L 2 2 4

12 K ANS A L 0 3 3

17
Button attaching M/ c BA 9 12 21

Button holing BH 21 13 34

Bar tacking M/ c BT 20 25 45

BT A 12 0 12

Compute r controlled cycle AS M 9 1 10


M/C

Automatic M/ c AP W 5 3 8

MO L 3 1 4

HAMS 7 0 7

S NBCS 16 7 23

CT 2 0 2

CC 2 0 2

CN 2 0 2

CB (P KT press ) 3 0 3

THRD S UCK 6 0 6

Dies 12 0 12

Collar p res s 3 0 3

Cuff attach 0 1 1

In ALTEX garmenting factory there are two broad production sections the woven & knit
productions follow. Similarly sewing have independent production sequence and they have
their own heads called woven sewing head and knitting sewing head and the engineering
department which minimize the production time in the hole production departments
especially in sewing.

18
2.2.7. Finishing Department

Figure 14 Finishing (embroidery, washing and packing)

Packing communication formats:

Transfer report: this is common for all transfer materials from department to Department.
So sewing department use this sheet to report how much garment Transferred from sewing to
packing department this format includes information such as order

Receiving note: used to receive products from knit & woven sewing department to knitted &
woven packing. This format distributes to five areas: original- accounts, yellow - production,
blue –store recording section, pink-store, and green-pad.

General and supplies store issue voucher: used to ask material like polybag, cell tap, carton
etc. which used to pack the garment. . It has four copies and one original: white -account,
yellow – requesting unit, blue store recording section, pink store, and green -pad.

19
Figure 15 finishing room flow chart

Start

Ironing

Quality control

Folding and poly bag

Audit

Internal External

Shipment

End

20
2.2.8. Finished Goods Store

Figure 16 Finishing good store room


Every store in Almeda private limited company is under supply. To talk in detail, under
supply there are three things IPC, Store, Purchasing. So spare parts, general item, accessory
store, raw material store, chemical store, finished goods store (knitted garment store, woven
garment store, finished fabric store) are under store. In both knitted garment store and woven
garment store

Full garment consumption style M-10


Table 5 Fabric consumption

Customer Product description Colour Style # Fabric width Size range

A.N. D.M T-SHIRT Red M-10 0.9 S -XL

Fabric (mtr/ gm ) Thread Plotter p ape r Rib Size lab el (pcs) Elastic
(mtr ) (gm.) (gm )

162 gm 170m 1.097 0.8 1 0

21
2.3 THE WORK TASK I HAVE BEEN EXCECUTING
As I mentioned in the above I was assigned to the garment department which contains
several sections inside it but from all the others section I saw a lot of defects and problems in
the cutting department which motivates me to work and minimize the problem.

2.4 PROCEDURES AND METHODS I HAVE BEEN USING WHILE PERFORMING


MY TASKS
I have been following the procedures and method to perform my task. First of all I have been
reading the manuals and instruction that describe about the filler machines and sectors I have
working on. Then after careful understanding of the working principles and operation of the
cutting machines I tried to understand the practical aspects by seeing the work task near to the
workers and further more I were helping them to know more. This task was executed with
help of my supervisor in the company. And finally by writing a report about what I have
seen, what we gained in terms of updating theoretical knowledge and improving practical
knowledge.

The method I have been using while executing my tasks is;


I. First I discuss on the issues that I have to work in and revise the theoretical
knowledge I gained from my intelligent, diligent and tireless university lecturers.

II. Then ask my supervisor in the company to help and show me the practical aspect.
III. I discuss about the practical aspect and ask my supervisor the questions that will
confuse me.
IV. Identify the cause (reason) that result problem
V. Finding solution

2.5 CHALLENGES OR LIMITATION OF THE STUDY


The research is limited by time and resource to implement in that department by myself.
During studying my research, they are a lot of problems that I have faced. These are lack of
information, transportation problem, and money.

22
2.6 TOOL AND MEASURES USED TO SOLVE MY PROBLEMS

 Wight measure
 Tape measure
 Fabric and
 Table

Figure 17 Measuring waste fabric using weight and tape measurement

23
CHAPTER THREE

3 OVERALL BENEFITS I GAINED FROM THE


INTERNSHIP EXPERIENCE
3.1. Internship Experience
During my internship period in ALMEDA textiles private limited company (ALTEX) for
four month, I have gained an experience in my field of study. So I thought some real life
experience would help me to know my states & make effort for my future endeavor. It also
give me an in-depth and analysis of what it really look like to work in the factory.

In addition the internship program allows me to gain different practical, theoretical, and
management skills, knowledge and also experience. In the 4th month staying in the firm gives
me a chance to meet a lot of professional and experienced people, I have tried to learn and
take many experience by asking and observing while they are working also they support me
in every matter even spending their time. The management face a lot of challenges but solve
them in any matter, though it enables me to experience it, not even this a lot more like
managing a lot of employs and their compliances in the factory.

3.2. Benefits I gained from internships


Internship helps me to get experience in my field of study. I was not sure what I wanted to do
when I graduated. So I thought some real life experience would help me solidify my future
endeavor. The benefit of internship which I acquired during my internship includes the
following.
 Practical skill
 Upgrade theoretical knowledge industrial problem solve
 Inter personal communication skill
 Team playing skill
 Leader ship skill
 Work ethics issue and
 Internship skill
 Industrial problem solve

24
3.2.1 Improving practical skill
Basically improving practical skills is made from participating in every of the activities
performed or done. In my stay in this company I have improved my practical skill in terms of
digging out the problems that company faced as well as giving the solution for the problems
that I gained from the company and also by working together with factories workers and the
production planning and control, the quality control, the maintenance group, the store room,
design and development with them it made very confident. The activities naturally employed
in the manufacturing facilities in production process and the system design in order to obtain
substantially demand through system knowledge and practical skills. For efficient handling of
assigned work in the field of production planning or others like operational managements as
well as in producing products the practical skill is very important.

Besides the technical department I trained how the machines are upgraded to computerized
numerically controlled system and also with maintenance department team and
subordinates provided me with opportunities to understand and gate experience how and
when the maintenance activities done. And therefore I saw the operational management
system by itself worth knowing skills that shows the key activities in the planning,
scheduling, work initiation, work order generation, prioritization, execution, recording, and
demonstration, documentation, procedures carried out on periodic basis.

In general, it was an effective experience in improving my practical skills in varies aspects


during the internship program.

3.2.2 Upgrading theoretical knowledge skill


One of the aims of this internship program is to develop the theoretical knowledge in to
practical one also encourages the theory that I have learnt. Therefore in my stay in the
company I develop the knowledge that I know in theory with the participating in operational
system of the company as well as in the factory’s working condition of the production
planning, in design and development, in quality control, store system, and also in
maintenance activity besides this I gathered the relevant information which is important to
understand the theory for practical application.

In addition to this I improved the practical skill in theory that is I understood the working
environment of the company as well as the factory by facing the challenges which is seen as
technically and scientifically. And also I upgraded my theoretical knowledge in different
25
ways .In the field of acquiring applicable knowledge with regard to the theoretical knowledge
along with the employment and putting into effect of facilities at the industries, associated on
operational technical, and system manuals have been provided and kept in order for
reference and training purpose. These were the primary resources I referred to as a new way
to enhance and get acquainted with theoretical particularities of the specific systems in
addition to the discussions held with engineers on the underlying basic principles.

Basically the theoretical knowledge that I managed to exploit from the available sources is
considerable and determined through the background in the system. Moreover, steps and
techniques in planning and scheduling, applicable procedure, and regulation in the
manufacturing industry and such development have been very crucial in maximizing my
scope of knowledge in manufacturing industry field and general outstanding knowledge of
the company. Therefore generally I acquire to upgrade my theoretical skill in different ways
of situations and participation in the factory.

3.2.3 Improving interpersonal communication


When I was in the internship session I did too many formal and informal communications
with the company manager and the supervisors and the workers of the company, production
managers, quality heads, shift leaders as well as the factory team leaders that could help me
to develop my communication skills very well.

Any duties and responsibilities assigned to perform in the research and development in the
conventional manufacturing factory core process are usually accomplished in a crew or
individual consisting of low level workers to highly experienced technician. The tasks
strongly demand to process appreciable communication ability and cooperation is needed in
order to meet goals and satisfactory results. During the work order flow I saw from initiation
to approval and execution, the process incurs involvement of expertise from multiple sectors.
Besides this I improved my interpersonal communication skill and knowledge in my stay in
the company

26
3.2.4 Improving team playing skill
In my stay in the company I would collected the relevant information sharing and the data
from different areas of the company as well as on different experience concerning to get a
well background of how achieving a team playing skill which is open mindedness, sharing
ideas and practical skill sharing or contribution it helps me to increase the working
environment experience on completion of this internship program and finally I have capable
of to increase the social understanding and practical skill in the work environment of the
company. Therefore the team playing skill made me to integrate all the activities of planning,
scheduling and controlling materials from design through production and including delivery
to customer. In addition to this the team playing skill is important in participating and
understanding of the knowledge that I have learned to share the data that I collected
indifferent areas of the company.

3.2.5 Improving leadership skill


Leader ship is one of the important management systems in every organization so I followed
how the massive labor force can be controlled in a single purpose managing of the overall
coordination in the factory. And also I understood which area can be controlled in order of
more productive and reliable for easiness of the of the work flow in the factory. Moreover I
made contacts to the manager for to understand the leading condition of one’s company. And
I have learned mostly during the regulation takes place in the industry. Generally it made me
more confident whenever making a leadership to the future in any organization or an
industry.

3.2.6 Understanding about work ethics issue issues


When I was in company I have been experienced the ethics of work, rules of governing one’s
self in the work place with briefly identifying the principles and ethics of work like
punctuality for the work and in the work place, tolerance with concerning to everyone in
everywhere or in every jobs, and the capability being committed for the work in any situation
in the work place.

An internship made me to have a strong willing to work. With a strong willing to work ethic I
am always committed to the work and will stay until the task is complete.
The internship made me to avoid personal issues on work time and to keep my positive
attitude and I remember that I have smaller tasks to handle prior to my large, more important
ones.

27
I also develop the following things after my internship program
 Build motivation and work ethics
 Punctuality and accountability to a given task
 Transparency in working once duty etc.

In addition to this I understood the how looks like the area of the industry and its
manufacturing area. And also I observed the industry location, its contribution and its major
application for this purpose this internship made me an experienced man for to understand the
overall industrial psychology in every aspects or situation.

Dealing with the related issues it offered me a well-trained man through which ideally
identifying the way of eliminating any problems and challenges made in any related issues.

3.2.7 Gaining of entrepreneurship skill


When I have been doing my project work the potentials and how to reform once self is
designed out inside me to re habilitate in the future for job creation opportunities being an
entrepreneur person. And also I come up with the new ideas alternatives to improve
production and minimization of costs and avoidance of wastage happened during production
system. Therefore in terms of gaining the entrepreneur skills this internship program made
me confident and careful for the work.

3.2.8 Improving industrial problem solving capability


In improving of the industrial problem solving capability I gained the knowledge to identify
the problems which is seen technically and digging out the problems which is majorly affects
the factory and the working environmental of the company. However I discussed more over
with the factory manager how the problems not be eliminated in the company and then I also
gained more experience how to solve and identify the challenges seen in the industry.
Dealing with the problem solving I effectively offered the capability to identify the problems
in every industries as well. Fortunately this internship program made me a good listener and a
problem identifier in any situation to meet the problems in contact to reducing their
consequences and challenges for the bottleneck effect in production system.

28
PART TWO- PROJECT WORK

CHAPTER ONE

1. IMPROVING FABRIC UTILIZATION IN ALMEDA TEXTILE


1.1. BACK GROUD
In the apparel industry there are various costs which adds up for a given garment, those
costs are as follows;

 Raw material cost 50%


 Direct labour cost 30%
 Indirect labour cost 20%. (ALTEX documents 2012)

The row material includes; fabric, sewing treads, trims and accessories (button, zipper,
fusible interlining, embroidery, bidding labels, narrow fabrics motifs etc.) used in garment.

The cost of fabric is 70 % of the cost of raw material. The consumption of fabric is critical to
profitability.

In order to have better costing of garment, and cost reduction, it is necessary to have
Understanding of the fabric utilization and various fabric losses that occur during garment
production.

Among all of the subsection of the garment department the major area where waste is highly
observed or created is in the cutting section.

As the firms profit depend on the fabric utilization or consumption then the firm should give
more attention on cutting department. (ALTEX documents 2012)

While cutting a fabric there are two kind of losses that we can get namely

 Marker loss and


 Spreading losses [altex 2012]

1.1.1. Marker loss: this type of loss consists of the proportion of the fabric lay out that has
been wasted between all patterns blocks are placed in the marking area of each cutting lay.
The marking loss is obtained by multiplication of area of the marker; the value of the marker
efficiency, the number of plies spread of a cutting table.

29
The marking losses arise due to the gab and the non-usable areas of placed between the
patterns pieces of a marker. Marker efficiency indicates the amount of marker loss.

Marker efficiency the quantity of fabric usage depends up on the marker efficiency.
Mathematically the marker efficiency is the percentage of the total fabrics that is actually
used in garment parts i.e.

Marker efficiency= (Area of patter pieces/Total fabric area) * 100.

The Higher the marker efficiency the higher fabric usage. Expectation for marker efficiency
differs from manufacturer to manufacture.

The standard marker efficiency for woven and knitting is different

 Marker efficiency for woven is 85% up to 95%


 Marker efficiency for a knitting is 75% up to 85%

1.1.2. Spreading loss:

It is the fabric loss outside the marker. We can get those losses in to five categories

 End losses: it is occurring when the length of the lay is greater than the length of the
marker.
 Width losses: the width of the marker has to be drafted to be narrower than the
actual width of fabric. Width loss is the amount of fabric wastage between the
salvage edge of the fabric roll and the edge of the marker.
 Splicing losses: it is the amount of fabric waste in terms of area that occurs in the
first last play of each fabric roll.
 Remnant losses: it is the remaining length of fabric left by the last fabric roll on the
completion of spreading. [altex 2012]

30
1.2. PROBLEM STATEMENT
I stated that the problem regarding to my project of improving fabric utilization and various
fabric losses in cutting room according to the different issue. Even saving of small quantity of
fabric in cutting room can result in large of garment and cost reduction it is necessary to have
a good understanding of fabric production cutting is the major area where fabric waste is
generated. The cost of the fabric is 70 of cost of raw material.

The following points are negative effect of the factory fabric utilization due to lack
knowledge what are the fabric and its cost and also operator carelessness and lack of skill.

By this case fist listed the statement problems then after to expect the solution through the
process of project work. The listed problems are spreading loss and marker loss that is; end
loss, width loss and remnant loss.

31
1.3. OBJECTIVE
2.3.1. General objective
 improving fabric utilization using new product development

2.3.2. Specific objective

 to know the source or type of fabric loss


 to compare existing fabric utilization
 to develop contrasted product or t-shirt

32
CHAPTER TWO

2 METHODOLOGY

• Observe the cutting department


M

• Finding the problem


E

• Identify the scope of improvement in cutting room


T

H • Data collection

O • Analysis the data

D • RESULT and conclusion

2.1 Data collection methodology


In this project paper both primary and secondary sources are used to collect the necessary
data

2.1.1Primary data:
Primary data collection method is done by direct observation of activities, situation,
working condition, and direct interview to concern ones.

The main purposes of primary data’s are:

 Primary data is more accurate because it is directly collected from the population.

33
 By using primary data researcher may get the latest and up-to-date information about
the product and services and also its environment.

Among the systems that I used to collect the data

 Participant observation: is the major method I used to work this project paper. More
over during data gathering I was directly dedicated in the work and measure the fabric
wastes they possess. So am able to aware that there is a lot of waste in every batch.

Recording of data in cutting room for knitting fabric in the form of weight (kg) and
percent (%) and the important information are size of panel, total received fabric in
weight and marker efficiency

 Interview: the design of the interview is based on the objective of the project. To
gather more information, I prepared questions related to the project and asked to those
who are Concerned such as Manager, PPC & sampling and design, Engineer’s,
Supervisor, Quality checker and Operator.
2.1.2 Secondary data
Secondary data collection method is obtained from various sources such as, journals,
articles, books, internet sources, reviewing manual, monthly data reports as
references and literature review.

So I used those materials that can give me more detailed information on my data
Collection time

Some of the purposes of secondary data are:

 One of the most noticeable advantages of using secondary data analysis is its cost
effectiveness. Because someone else has already collected the data, the researcher
does not need to invest any money, time, or effort into the data collection stages of his
or her study.
 Also, the data from a secondary data set is typically already cleaned and stored in an
electronic format, so the researcher can spend his or her time rolling up their sleeves
and analyzing the data instead of spending time having to prepare the data for
analysis.
 Another benefit of analyzing secondary data instead of collecting and analyzing
primary data is the sheer volume and breadth of data that is publicly available today.
34
CHAPTER THREE

3 LITERATURE REVIEW

Designing with waste has also been called Up-cycling. This involves a retrospective process
where designers try to match the existing form of a discarded product to a new function.
However, up-cycling is characterized by being hand-made, not cost-effective and unable to
effectively re-process the waste stream it uses. [1]

(Crabbe 2012).

Zero-waste, recycling, up cycling and working with advanced materials presents pattern
cutters with new challenges through which to develop more creative practice; a critical
component of contemporary fashion design. The term 'mastery' in relation to zero-waste
approaches to cutting, and analyses how such innovative concepts continue to inform the role
of the pattern cutter. The paper also illustrates how the ability to master a specific technique
or textile can enable the practitioner to reach a level of skill, experiential knowledge and
understanding that can be applied to new design areas.

Creative pattern cutting is a skill and process through which expert practitioners can translate
the constantly evolving fabrics and silhouettes of fashion. While specific pattern cutting skills
and methodologies can be learnt, it is acknowledged that the discipline of pattern cutting
almost defies mastery, as it shifts and expands to inform and facilitate new garment shaping
strategies.

Zero-waste pattern cutting provides an excellent opportunity for a blended learning approach
framework presents pattern cutters with many problems to solve and in doing so the
opportunity to think and design holistically. Mastering zero-waste is not just about
conserving materials, but is about challenging conventions in order to push practice and shift
perceptions about what constitutes creativity and value in fashion.[2]

(Townsend, k. & mills, 2013)

35
In one of the earliest comprehensive studies Grasso stressed the importance of sorting and
packing apparel waste, as well as the fact that it must be clean and without other objects, as
the main condition in turning it from waste to a valuable resource. In addition, bailing
apparel waste, rather than packing it in boxes or bags, made it more adequate for sale. Using
pre-consumer textile waste increased consumer trust in the quality of recycled products,
especially if used for clothing.[3]

(Grasso, 1995)

The concept of waste hierarchy refers to 3R – reduce, re-use and recycle; that classifies the
waste management method according to their preferences. This means that the waste
production needs to be avoided and reduced. Waste produced needs to be processed by re-
use, recycle and other recycling options that can reduce disposal operations at the disposal
sites (Wei et al., 2016; Joung, Park-Poaps, 2013). In the textile fashion industry, the aim of
the waste hierarchy is to maximize the benefits of apparels while minimizing waste
production that affects the environment (Muthu, 2014). One of the approaches in
implementing 3R in the textile fashion is by reducing purchase and use. ―The of zero waste‖
concept put forward by Gwilt and Rissanen (2011); Carrico and Kim (2014) in the process of
fashion design is that there are no waste at all after the pattern is cut. In another way, by
reducing which is to improve and repair, either as a whole product or for certain parts of the
product, to ensure that the consumers will use the product as long as possible (Fletcher,
2008). textile reuse and recycling in general reduce environmental impact compared to
incineration and landfilling, and that reuse is more beneficial than recycling. However reuse
and recycling are not beneficial for certain environmental impacts. For example, as benefits
mainly arise due to the avoided production of new products, benefits may not occur in cases
with low replacement rates or if the avoided production processes are relatively clean. Also,
for reuse, induced customer transport may cause environmental impact that exceeds the
benefits of avoided production, unless the use phase is sufficiently extended.

In terms of critical methodological assumptions, authors most often assume that textiles sent
to recycling are wastes free of environmental burden, and that reused products and products
made from recycled materials replace products made from virgin fibers.

36
Waste materials such as textile products can be re-used to produce different textile products
that have multiple uses. Apart from that, as a way of creating awareness and develop positive
attitude among consumers and also designers and manufacturers regarding the importance of
nurturing the environment. Awareness is presented among consumers by purchasing products
that can be recycled or products that are made from recycled materials. The society need to
be aware regarding the importance of recycling for the benefit of environmental
sustainability. If not, recycling practice will be forgotten and only destruction will happen.
Apart from that, the usage of existing materials such as new raw materials for new products
can be reduces which in turn reduces usage of energy, air pollution, water pollution and
production of carbon dioxide. Zero-waste is the philosophy that encourages re-use of
materials where waste being disposed at the disposal sites are minimized. Recycling activities
work as additional measure towards achieving zero-waste. Thus, the government needs to
enforce laws related to aspects of environmental cleanliness. This is very significant as a step
to protecting the environment. As the implication, the laws need to be made even stricter in
order to reduce environmental pollution. The waste materials can be re-processed to be used
again. Through this method, natural resources such as trees that are being used to acquire raw
materials in order to fulfil the basic needs of human can be reduced. Apart from that, the
country could also save its cost in acquiring human needs and at the same time able to protect
the environment. As conclusion, recycling program is one of the ways to overcome
environmental pollution. There are few methods that can be applied in order to solve
pollution problems. Pollution needs to be addressed quickly since it has many implications on
the society and country. All the related parties need to work hand in hand to solve
environmental pollution issues. With good cooperation from all the related parties, it can be
assured that environmental pollution can be handled well.[4]

(Arasinah Kamis 2018)

The quantity of waste from households will drastically reduce or home owners will switch
materials for the purpose of recycling, and also encouraging employee participation is very
important to many local authorities. There is the need to create awareness. Among people
regarding waste as a resource rather than the waste that is thrown away, and this will help to
reduce the volume of waste and at the same time increase recycling.[5]

(Gellynck et al and Williams et al, 2011- 2004)

37
To assess the management possibilities of waste it is important to conduct a waste
characterization analysis. For the analysis to be properly conducted, also and recommended
that it is imperative to:

 Identify waste characteristics,


 Develop sampling methodology
 Conduct market surveys for special waste for recycling [6]

(Otten, 1996) and (Peavy et al, 1985)

With the expansion of the fashion industry the quantity of industrial pre-consumer textile
waste has increased. It is estimated that approximately 10-20% of textiles are wasted during
garment manufacture .Reusing pre-consumer textile waste within the fashion supply chain
offers many environmental advantages, including:

 Directing waste away from landfill and incinerators


 · Conserving resources and providing a solution for the current shortages of
natural resources and virgin fibers
 Providing low-cost raw materials for fashion products
 Delivering a lower monetary and environmental processing cost than virgin
fibers

The reuse and recovery of textile waste causes only a fraction of the environmental, health
and social damage caused by manufacturing the same amount of textiles from raw materials.
Reclaiming fibers from textile waste avoids many of the polluting and energy intensive
processes needed to make textiles from virgin materials.

As textiles are almost 100% recyclable, in an ideal world, nothing in the textile and apparel
industry should be wasted. Recycling and reuse are therefore particularly important and must
be addressed along the whole fashion supply chain. Pre-consumer textile waste is easier to
reuse than post-consumer waste because it does not have the same hygiene and collection
challenges. [7]

(Wan Chai 2015)

Fabric Width∗GSM∗Marker Length∗2


Fabric consumption per t-shirt= [8] (altex
Ratio
2012)

38
CHAPTER FOUR

4. DATA COLLECION AND ANALYSIS


4.1. Data collection
The data are collected through direct observation and asking questions to the concerned ones
and also measure those wastes using tap measurement and weight measurement in meter and
kg respectively. The recorded data is in the form of

Total received fabric in kg. Remnant, Marker length, and Marker width is in meter ALTEX
give the discarded fabrics a grade so they can be able to sale them. Those are

The fabric waste gate from the cutting room are grade B

The fabric gate from sewing department are grade C

Also I gave those wastes a grade based on their length which are

- Remnant loss A Grade

- Width loss B Grade, and

- Marker loss and other losses C Grade

Table 6 waste in Kg batch no 33

BATCH NO=33

Ratio=12 Fabric width =92 cm Size L & XL

Marker length =8.8 m Fabric length =20 m Style AL20003

Marker width =88 cm Colour Heather gray

GSM =165 g Marker efficiency =81.52%

Parameters K.G Percentage %

Total received fabrics 416.1

Remnant loss 2 0.48

Width loss 25 6

Marker loss 65 15.62

Total wastage 92 22.1

39
Table 7 Waste in Kg batch no =25

BATCH NO=25

Ratio=8 Fabric width =94 cm Size M & XL

Marker length =8.74 m Fabric length =16.9 m Style M-10

Marker width =86.5 cm Colour Tan

GSM =175g Marker efficiency =85.52

Parameters K.G Percentage %

Total received fabrics 427

Remnant loss 3 0.7

Width loss 25 5.85

Marker loss 62 14.52

Total wastage 90 21.07

Table 8 Waste in Kg batch no =35

BATCH NO=35

Ratio=12 Fabric width =92 Size L & XL

Marker length =8.8 Fabric length =20 Style AL20003

Marker width =88 Colour Heather gray

GSM =165g Marker efficiency =81.52%

Parameters K.G Percentage %

Total received fabrics 433

Remnant loss 3 0.69

Width loss 29 6.7

Marker loss 68 15.7

Total wastage 100 23.09

40
Table 9 Waste in Kg batch no =36

BATCH NO=25

Ratio=11 Fabric width =93 cm Size L & XL

Marker length =8.74 m Fabric length =20 m Style AL20003

Marker width =86.5 cm Colour Heather gray

GSM =170g Marker efficiency =81.52%

Parameters K.G Percentage %

Total received fabrics 424.1

Remnant loss 3 0.7

Width loss 25 5.9

Marker loss 60 14.14

Total wastage 88 20.74

Table 10 Waste in Kg batch no =27

BATCH NO=27

Ratio=12 Fabric width =93 cm Size M & XL

Marker length =8.74 m Fabric length =16.9 m Style M-10

Marker width =86.5 cm Colour Tan

GSM =176g Marker efficiency =85.28%

Parameters K.G Percentage %

Total received fabrics 462

Remnant loss 3 0.65

Width loss 27 5.84

Marker loss 65 14.07

Total wastage 95 20.56

Table 11 Waste in Kg batch no =28

41
BATCH NO=28

Ratio=8 Fabric width =93 cm Size M & XL

Marker length =8.74 m Fabric length =16.9 m Style M-10

Marker width =86.5 cm Colour Heather gray

GSM =165g Marker efficiency =85.28

Parameters K.G Percentage %

Total received fabrics 437.7

Remnant loss 3 0.68

Width loss 22 5.02

Marker loss 64 14.62

Total wastage 89 20.32

Table 12 Waste in Kg batch no =29

BATCH NO=29

Ratio=11 Fabric width =93 cm Size M & XL

Marker length =8.74 m Fabric length =16.9 m Style M-10

Marker width =87 cm Colour Heather gray

GSM =177g Marker efficiency =85.28%

Parameters K.G Percentage %

Total received fabrics 436

Remnant loss 2 0.46

Width loss 27 6.2

Marker loss 51 11.7

Total wastage 80 18.36

Table 13 Waste in Kg batch no =26

42
BATCH NO=26

Ratio=12 Fabric width =93 cm Size M & XL

Marker length =8.74 Fabric length =16.9 m Style M-10

Marker width =86.5 Colour White

GSM =175g Marker efficiency =85.28%

Parameters K.G Percentage %

Total received fabrics 446.7

Remnant loss 3 0.67

Width loss 29 6.5

Marker loss 50 11.2

Total wastage 82 18.37

Table 14 Waste in Kg batch no =30

BATCH NO=30

Ratio=12 Fabric width =93-95cm Size M

Marker length =8.74 m Fabric length =16.9 m Style M-10

Marker width =84 cm Colour Tan

GSM =177 Marker efficiency =84.10%

Parameters K.G Percentage %

Total received fabrics 301.3

Remnant loss 2 0.66

Width loss 23 7.63

Marker loss 47 15.59

Total wastage 72 23.89

43
The weights in kilogram of the collected data are without the fabric used for piping from each
batch. From each batch they leave averagely 30kg fabric for piping.

4.2 Data analysis


Here is the average waste fabric in Kg that we can get from the data collected

Table 15 Average waste fabric in kg

B# NO Used Kg Remnant Width Marker & other loss

33 416.1 2 25 65

25 427 3 25 62

35 433 3 29 68

36 424.1 3 25 60

27 462 3 27 65

28 437.7 3 22 64

29 436 2 27 51

26 446.7 3 29 50

30 301.3 2 23 47

Total 3783.9 24 (0.634%) 232 (6.131%) 532 (14.059%)

Grand total 788KG (20.825%)

So the average of the waste fabric from the collected data will be
Received fabric in Kg is = 3783.9/9 …………..420.43Kg
Remnant fabric in kg is = 24/9…………………2.7Kg (0.642%)
Fabric waste width wise in Kg is = 232/9……..25.8Kg (6.136%)
Marker & other loss in Kg are = 532/9………..59.1 Kg (14.057%)

Total Kg is 87.6 Kg per a batch (20.83%)

44
percent of wasted and utilized fabric
0.61
6.13
14.06

Utilized fabric
Marker loss and other loss
Width loss
79.2
Remnant loss

Figure 18 Percent of wasted and utilized fabric

To determine how much kg will consume to construct a t-shirt (M-10) is


Fabric Width∗GSM∗Marker Length∗2
Fabric consumption per t-shirt=
Ratio

Given B#30:
Fabric Width=0.95m
Marker Length=8.75m
GSM=177g
Ratio=12
Fabric Width∗GSM∗Marker Length∗2
Fabric consumption per t-shirt=
Ratio

Then the fabric consumption per t-shirt will be 0.245Kg

45
Then fabric consumption per t-shirt will be 0.245Kg, from this we know that how much t-
shirt will be constructed from 1Kg
1 t−shirt∗1Kg
0.245Kg = 1 t-shirt Z= 0.245Kg
1Kg = Z
 Z= 4.0816≈4t-shirt will be constructed per 1Kg
In ALTEX one shift work minimum 3 batch of knitting fabric per a day to know the wastage
per shift ………….
Solution 1 batch = 87.6Kg Z = 3 batch*87.6Kg
3 batch = Z 1 batch

 262.8Kg fabric will be wasted per shift

One day has two working shift


Solution 1 day = 2* one shift 525.6Kg fabric will waste per day

One week has 6 working days


Solution 1 day = 525.6Kg A = 6 day*525.6Kg
6 days = A 1 day

 3153.6Kg fabric will be wasted per week

One month has 26 working days


Solution 1 day = 525.6Kg M = 26 day*525.6Kg
26 day = M 1 day

 13665.6Kg fabric will be wasted per month

One year has 295 working days


Solution 1 day = 525.6Kg F =295 days*525.6Kg
295 days = F 1 day

 155052Kg fabric will be wasted per year


ALTEX sold their product such as t-shit 45-40 birr based on their GSM and other. So that
now the cost of kitted fabric wastage per t -shirt is

46
Given
Remnant loss in t-shirt = 10 t-shirt
Cost of t-shirt = 35birr per t-shirt
Solution 1 t-shirt = 35birr R = 10 t-shirt*45birr
10 t-shirts = R 1 t -shirt

 350birr/t-shirt
Based on the given grade the current wastage per t-shirt and per cost is
Table 16 current wastage per t shirt

Parameter KG Percent Wastage per t-shirt Cost incurred Birr per t-shirt
%

Remnant loss 2.43 0.68 10 350


Width loss 12.9 6.54 53 1855
Total loss 15.33 7.22 63 2205

ALTEX sold those wastages to the outside customers based on their grade the company give
them such as

 For grade B sold by 8.4 birr per Kg and


 For grade c sold by 2.03 birr per Kg, the so called grade B is that we found from
cutting room and grade C are those grades we can gate it from sewing section

Figure 19 Types of wastes

47
Then to know the amount of money ALTEX found from the current waste fabric in a batch is

Solution: for grade B in a batch

1Kg = 8.4 birr S = 8.4 birr*87.6Kg

87.6Kg = S 1Kg

 735.84 birr per batch

4.3 Generalization in current waste knitting fabric

Table 17 current waste knit fabric in birr

Parameter Kg Percent In cost (birr )

REMNA NT LOS S 8.1/shift 0.68 68.04

16.2/d a y 0.68 136.0 8

97.2/ week 0.68 816.4 8

421.2/month 0.68 3538. 08

4779/ ye a r 0.68 40143 .6

W IDTH LOS S 77.4/shift 6.54 650.1 6

154.8/ day 6.54 1300. 32

928.8/ week 6.54 7801. 92

4024. 8/month 6.54 33808 .32

45666/ ye a r 6.54 38359 4.4

MARKER A ND 177.3/shift 14.98 1489. 32


OTH ER LO SS
354.6/ day 14.98 2978. 64

2127. 6/w eek 14.98 17871 .84

9219. 6/month 14.98 77444 .64

14607/ ye a r 14.98 87869 8.8

TOT A L 13024 36.8 / ye a r


48
4.4 New product development

Figure 20 developing new product from discarded fabric

New product development is a process of bringing new product to a market. Also it is


described as the transformation market opportunity in to product available for sale. A good
understanding of customer needs and wants the competitive environment and nature of the
market represents the top required factors for the success of a new product. So successful new
product development (NPD) is a critical cornerstone of the firm’s success.

49
4.5 Photo and pattern of the new product sample

Table 18 PHOTO AND PATTERN OF THE NEW PRODUCT SAMPLE

Pattern design Finished product

FRONT BODY FRONT BODY

BACK BODIES BACK BODIES

50
4.6 After new product applied
It doesn’t mean that all the wastes are to be used remnant 90% width loss 50% can be used in
to the product, then the remnant loss, and width loss, becomes 2.43Kg and 12.9Kg
respectively per batch. Then to know the amount of money ALTEX will gate after using the
wastes for product will be

Solution:

0.245 Kg = 1 t-shirt W = 7.29 Kg*1t-shirt

7.29 Kg = W 0.2468 Kg

 30 t-shirt

Table 19 Cost after new product applied

Parameter Kg Percent (%) In t-shirt In cost (birr )

REMNA NT 7.29/S H IF T 0.68 30 1050


LOSS
14.58/ Day 0.68 60 2100

87.48/W eek 0.68 357 12495

379.0 8/Mont h 0.68 1547 54145

4301. 1/Yea r 0.68 17556 61446 0

W IDTH LOS S 38.7/shift 6.54 158 5530

77.4/d a y 6.54 316 11060

464.4/ week 6.54 1896 66360

2012. 4/month 6.54 8214 287490

22833/ ye a r 6.54 93196 3261860

TOT A L 19142 .55/ ye a r 110752 t- 3876320 birr/ ye a r


shirt/ ye a r

51
To know the amount of money altex could gain per year it is important to know the amount
of money it spends for labour and accessories.

To know the labour cost I used SMV (standard minute value) takes for making a t-
shirt describing by the below table.

The following table denotes the estimated SMV of operations to the respect of average cycle
time by considering 20% job allowance

Table 20: standard minute value for making one t-shirt

s/n operation Average cycle Estimated


time(sec) SMV
1 SMV for number matching front to back part 15 0.24
2 SMV for shoulder joining 17 0.27
3 SMV for neck make 16 0.26
4 SMV for neck joint 19 0.30
5 SMV for neck piping 18 0.29
6 SMV for v shape neck edge tack 20 0.32
7 SMV for back tap top stitch 38 0.60
8 SMV for main label attaching 19 0.30
9 SMV for sleeve hem 19 0.30
10 SMV for sleeve match 18 0.29
11 SMV for sleeve joining 38 0.60
12 SMV for side joining 51 0.80
13 SMV for care label joining 13 0.29
14 SMV for body turning 20 0.32
15 SMV for side top stitch 38 0.60
16 SMV for neck top stitch 22 0.35
17 SMV for bottom hem 22 0.35
Total SMV 6.48

 From the above table to make one t-shirt it takes about 6.48 minute
 Another thing is it is important to know the working hour
 The working hour of one labour is one shift which is 8 hrs. /day
 To know the amount of hours a labour works per month in one shift we
multiply the working days per month to the working hours. Altex have 26
working days per month.
Working days per shift per month =26 working days * 8 hours per shift
208 hours/shift/month

52
Labour cost
 Labours payment per month is 1400 birr
 To know labours payment per hour we divide the monthly income to the
total working hour in the month which is: - 1400/ 208=6.73birr per hour
per shift
 To know labours payment per minute we divide the labour income per
hour to 60 second which becomes :- 6.73/60 = 0.112 birr per minute per
shift
 To know the labour cost per shirt we multiply the total time it cost to make a t-
shirt (SMV) by the labour payment per minute which is:-6.48*0.112
birr=0.726birr/shift
 From table 19 the remnant loss per shift is 7.29 KG
The number of shirt made from remnant loss
1 shirt = 0.245 KG X= 7.29 kg* 1 shirt
X = 7.29 KG 0.245
The number of shirt made from remnant loss is X=30 T-shirts per shift

 To know the amount of money altex pay for labours per shift for making t-
shirt from remnant loss we multiply labour cost per shift by number of
shirts made from the remnant loss which is :- 30*0.726= 21.78 birr per
shift

 From table 19 the width loss per shift is 38.7 KG


The number of shirt made from width loss
1 shirt = 0.245 KG X= 38.7 kg* 1 shirt
X = 38.7 KG 0.245
The number of shirt made from remnant loss is X=158 T-shirts per shift

 To know the amount of money altex pay for labours per shift for making t-
shirt from remnant loss we multiply labour cost per shift by number of
shirts made from the remnant loss which is :- 158*0.726= 114.7 birr per
shift

53
THREAD COST

Given

 One fully rolled thread length is 5486.5 meter


 The cost to buy one fully rolled thread is 99.997 birr
 1 T-shirt uses around 80.476 meter thread check from table 21
 To know how much is the cost of the thread used for one t-shirt:

5486.5 meter = 99.997 birr X= 99.997 birr *80.475 meter

80.476 meter = X 5486.5

Cost of thread to make one t-shirt X =1.46 birr

 From table 19 the remnant loss per shift is 7.29 KG


The number of shirt made from remnant loss
1 shirt = 0.245 KG X= 7.29 kg* 1 shirt
X = 7.29 KG 0.245
The number of shirt made from remnant loss is X=30 T-shirts per
shift

 To know the amount of money altex spends for thread per shift for making t-
shirt from remnant loss we multiply thread cost per t-shirt by number of
shirts made from the remnant loss which is :- 30*1.46= 43.8 birr per shift

 From table 19 the width loss per shift is 38.7 KG


The number of shirt made from width loss
1 shirt = 0.245 KG X= 38.7 kg* 1 shirt
X = 38.7 KG 0.245
The number of shirt made from remnant loss is X=158 T-shirts per shift

 To know the amount of money altex pay for labours for making t-shirt from
remnant loss we multiply thread cost per t-shirt by number of shirts made
from the remnant loss which is :- 158*1.46= 230.68 birr per shift

54
Table 21: thread consumption for one t-shirt

I used the tread consumption ratio to estimate thread consumption adding 10% thread
wastage.

Table 22: labour and thread costs per year

Labour cost Thread cost

For remnant loss For width loss For remnant loss For width loss

21.78 birr/shift 114.7 birr/ shift 43.8 birr/shift 230.68birr/shift

43.56 birr/day 229.4 birr/day 87.6 birr/day 461.36 birr/day

1132.56birr/month 5964.4 birr/year 2277.6 11995.36birr/month


birr/month
12850.2 birr/year 67673 birr/year 25842 birr/year 136101.2 birr/year

Total cost(remnant 12850.2+67673 = 80523.2 birr/year 25842 + 136101.2 = 161943.2


+ width) birr/year

55
The total cost that we can get from the new products using knitting waste fabric and the 10%,
50% & from the remnant, width and marker & other loss that is directly sold as a rags in a
year will be

[(Remnant loss +10% of remnant as rags) – (labour and thread cost)] + [(Width loss + 50%
width as rage) – (labour and thread cost)] + the marker and other loss as rage

Solution

[(614,460 birr/year + 4,014 birr/year)] – (80523.2birr/year)] + [(3,261,860 birr/year) +


(191,797.2birr/year) – (161943.2 birr/year)] + 878,698.8 birr/year

 4,708,362.8

Then when we subtract before and after the product is applied give us

4,708,362.8 birr/year – 1,302,436.8 birr/year


Therefore, it implies that ALTEX loss 3,405,926 birr/year every year from knitted
fabric, to gain those losses ALTEX must use those products as a contrasted
product.

Table 23 Result

S /N Key per form an c e Before After Improvement


point ( KP IS ) (birr p e r ye a r ) (birr per ye a r ) Rate (%)

1 Cost 1,302 ,436 .8 3,405,926 72.33%

56
CHAPTER FIVE
5.1 CONCLUSION
It’s obvious that in any garment industry most wastages possess from knitting fabric even if
we use a bench mark of marker efficiency. In order to remain competitive on the global
market a company should get more and more profit from its product. As we can see in the
data collected the current knitting fabric wastage in a year from the three fabric losses the
company gates 1,302,436.8 Birr/year as it sold as rags, but after the new product applied the
company get from its product in a year is 3,405,926 birr/year.

Therefore this shows as ALMEDA losses more than 3.4 million per year, in order to gain this
loss ALMEDA must be implement the new product using the knitting fabric wastage.

57
5.2 RECOMMENDATION
I spent my four-month intern ship program in ALMED textile and garment plc. At
Adwa the thing that I want to conclude is the internship program is a very important
thing for us in order to interpret the theoretical knowledge in to practical knowledge.
Not only improving practical knowledge, it is also important to upgrade our
interpersonal communication skills, team playing skills, leadership skills, work ethics
& also an entrepreneurship skill. It does not mean that all the theories we have learned
still is practically exist but we gained an additional and new knowledge.

As an industrial engineering student that I want to recommend is there are some


problems in the management and in the overall manufacturing process. ALMEDA
garmenting and textile section are under the same management, this affects the quality
of the garment because the quality of fabric can be checked in the processing
department but not in garmenting section; since the fault is from themselves they
tolerate the defect of fabric. as a result of this defected fabric the marker efficiency,
shade, softness, shrinkage, and the overall quality of the garment was not good, then it
is good to have their own management system.

As ALMEDA is very vast company they own appreciable layout with a large
expansion area, a large number of man power with reasonable cost, a large number of
latest machines with averagely 10 free sewing lines. It is unbelievable to hear this
company is not profitable so it is better to produce a large product verity by creating
different fashion group, which have a deep knowledge of market research, product
development and a skilled man power which engineered the working area.

58
5.3 REFERENCE
 [1] Crabbe, A. (2012). Up cycling: where function follows form. In proceedings of design
research society Bangkok, July 1-4 (pp.338-91)
 [2] Townsend, K. & Mills, F. (2013). Mastering zero waste. Hong Kong china pp.104-
111
 [3] Maureen Grasso (1995). Importance of sorting and packing apparel waste.4(suppl
2):O9
 [4] Arasinah Kamis et al (2018). Environmentally Sustainable Apparel: Recycle,
Repairing and Reuse Apparel. Indonesia (pp.322326412)
 [5] Gellynck et al and Williams et al (l2001-2004)
 [6] (Otten 1996) and (Peavy et al 1985)
 [7] Wan chai (2015). Reusing pre consumer textile waste. Hong Kong
 [8] Altex document (2012)
 Reuse Apparel. Indonesia, 5(01): 4249-4257 2018
 Altex 2012
 Fletcher, K. and Grose, L. (2012), Fashion and Sustainability: Design for Change,
Laurence King Publishers, and London.
 The Eco Chic Design Award (2013) (www.ecochicdesignaward.com)
 Yin, R. K. (2009), Case Study Research: Design and Methods, 4th edition, Sage
Publications
 Kerli Kant Hvass October, (2016) Weaving a Path from Waste to Value Copenhagen,
Denmark
 Donald G (1950) principle of product development
 Barbero, S. et al., 2012. Eco design: Ecofriendly Objects for Everyday Use, h.f. ullmann.

59
5.4 APPENDIX:

Unit Size

Kg=kilo gram L=large

G=gram M= medium

M=meter XL=single XL

CM=centimeter XXL=dabble XL

PLC =private limited company

GSM=gram per square meter

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