1

CORPORATE PROFILE Incorporated in 1925, the Raymond Group is a Rs. 1400 crore plus
conglomerate having businesses in Textiles, Readymade Garments, Engineering Files &
Tools, Prophylactics and Toiletries. The group is the leader in textiles, apparel, & files & tools
in India and enjoys a pronounced position in the international market. Raymond believes in
Excellence, Quality and Leadership. Raymond is considered a pioneer in the development of
the woolen and worsted textiles market in India, thanks to its continuous initiatives in product
development, marketing and distribution. A strong heritage of in house research and
development, a range of over 20,000 shades and designs, a distribution network of more
than 4000 multi - brand outlets and over 281 exclusive retail shops, makes Raymond the
largest and most respected textile brand in India. Raymond is uniquely positioned as a brand
that addresses the innate need of men to look good and at the same time possess strength
of character. This emphasis on human values creates a warm emotional link with
consumers- the essence of 'The Complete Man'. At Raymond’s consistent focus is on
cutting-edge research and technology that has resulted in pioneering new products, which
have set new benchmarks in the worsted suiting industry in India. Raymond has always
focused on innovation and technological upgradation that has yielded path breaking fabric
solutions to customers around the world. From pure wool to wool blend with exotic fibre like
cashmere, mohair or angore and casein or the ultimate in fine wool – super 240s crafted out
of 11.6 micron wool, Raymond has always provided customers with world class products.
The company exports its suiting fabric to more than 50 countries, including usa, Canada,
Europe, japan and the middle east. The company's engagement with the customer works on
multiple dimensions right from developing fashion guides that help them look sharp, to a
wide selection of fabric for all occasions and fashion, to offering superior tailoring at The
Raymond Shops at convenient locations all over India and the Middle East. As an integrated
player, they provide end-to-end fabric solutions right from manufacturing worsted, woolen
and linen fabrics to creating suits, trousers and apparel.

RAYMOND GROUP STRUCTURE

Raymond Group

Fabric

Apparels

Brands

Woolen Outerwear

Furnishings

Brands

Worsted
Tailored Clothing

Raymond

Home Furnishings

EBO's

Denim

Jeanswear

Raymond Premium Apparel

Auto & Institutional Furnishing

Made to Measure

Shirtings

Dress Shirts

Park Avenue

Parx

ColorPlus

Makers

Notting Hill

Made to Measure The Raymond Shop

The Raymond Shop

GROUP COMPANIES

RAYMOND LTD. Raymond Ltd. is among the largest integrated manufacturers of worsted
fabrics in the world.

RAYMOND APPAREL LTD. Raymond Apparel Ltd. has in its folio some of the most highly
regarded apparel brands in India – Raymond Premium Apparel, Park Avenue, Parx and
Notting Hill. COLORPLUS FASHIONS LTD. ColorPlus is among the largest smart casual
brands in the premium category. The company was acquired by Raymond to cater to the
growing demand for a high end, casual wear brand for Men & Women.

SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD. A garmenting facility that manufactures formal suits,
trousers and jackets.

EVERBLUE APPAREL LTD. A state-of-the-art denim garmenting facility.

CELEBRATIONS APPAREL LTD. A facility set-up for the manufacture of formal shirts.

J.K. HELENE CURTIS LTD. A leading player in the grooming, accessories and toiletries
category.

J.K. INVESTO TRADE (INDIA) LTD. JKIT is an investment company registered with
Reserve Bank of India as Non-Banking Financial Company.

J.K. FILES & TOOLS A leading player in the Engineering Files & Tools segment and the
largest producer of steel files in the world.

RING PLUS AQUA LTD. A leading manufacturer in the engineering automotive components.

JOINT VENTURES

Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd. The manufacturers and marketers of denim fabrics

RAYMOND ZAMBAITI PVT. LTD. A greenfeild facility manufacturing high value cotton
shirting

JK ANSELL LTD. The manufacturers and marketers of kamasutra condoms and surgical
gloves.

JK TALABOT LTD Joint venture with MOB outillage SA, manufacturing files and rasps for
international markets

HISTORY

Around the time the Singhania family was building, consolidating and expanding its various
businesses in Kanpur, one Mr. Wadia, was in a similar manner engaged in fulfilling his
dream: he set up a small woolen mill in the area around Thane creek, 40 kilometers away
from Bombay. The Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family of Bombay, soon acquired
this mill and renamed it as The Raymond Woolen MillsWhen the Singhania were looking for
new regions to establish their presence and new fields to venture into, they concurred that
textiles appeared to hold promise. A piece of information that a woolen mill was available on
the outskirts of Bombay clinched the issue. When the grandson of LalaJuggilal,
LalaKailashpatSinghania took over Raymond in 1944, the mill was primarily making cheap
and coarse woolen blankets, and modest quantities of low priced woolen fabrics. The vision
and foresight of Mr. KailashpatSinghania helped greatly in establishing the J.K. Group’s
presence in the western region. Under his able stewardship, Raymond embarked upon a
gradual phase of technological up gradation and modernization producing woolen fabrics of
a far superior quality. Under Mr. GopalakrishnaSinghania, the mill became a world-class
factory and the Raymond brand became synonymous with fine quality woolen fabrics. At
Raymond, quality did not rest on its laurelsWhen Dr. VijaypatSinghania took over the reins of
the company in 1980, he injected fresh vigor into Raymond, transforming it into a modern,
industrial conglomerate. His son Mr. GautamHariSinghania, the present chairman and
managing director has been instrumental in restructuring the Group. With the divestment of
the Synthetics, Steel and Cement divisions he initiated, the Group has emerged stronger
with a better bottom line, more focused approach, become market oriented and achieved a
consolidated position Today, the woolen mill by the creek has turned into a Rs. 1400 Crores
conglomerate and is India’s leading producer of worsted suiting fabric with 60% market
share. It is also the largest exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to 54
countries including Australia, Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. The Raymond
group is also the leader among ready-mades in India with a turnover of Rs. 2000 million with
its three brands – Park Avenue, Parx and Manzoni.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS It all began with a small but significant order from Fiji for Rs.
7,000 worth of Raymond fabrics. In the St. Erik’s Fair in Sweden, a sizeable order was won
and executed and ever since exports have never looked back. Today, Raymond is the
largest exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to over 58 countries including
Australia, Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. From winning the first ever
Government of India award for outstanding export performances, Raymond has continued to
win a number of export awards. Happily the export graph continues to rise higher…and
higher. Raymond Denim enjoys a substantial market share in all parts of the world. The
company exports 55% of its production to around 20 countries around the world and to
leading denim wear brands like Levi's, Pepe, Lee Cooper and retail brands like Zara, H&M,
Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, etc.

RAYMOND EXPORTS MARKET European Union (U.K., Portugal, Spain, Italy, Germany,
Greece),Japan, Turkey, Poland, Lebanon, Egypt, Middle East, Mauritius, USA, Colombia,
Hong Kong, Korea, Philippines, Indonesia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Pakistan. The
products that Raymond Exports are:



Fabrics -100% Wool, Wool Rich, Polyester Wool & Polyester Viscose fabrics .Exotic fabrics
like Wool Silk, Wool Cashmere, Cape Wool and Linen blends. Available in variety of finished
and stretch properties both with and without Lycra. Blankets-100% Wool, Wool Rich
Blankets & Flannels. Garments-Trousers, Jackets, Suits, Shirts, Jeans and Readymade
accessories such as Ties, Socks Handkerchiefs and Leather Belts.

7
BOARD OF DIRECTORS GAUTAM HARI SINGHANIA (CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING
DIRECTOR) Shri Gautam Hari Singhania took over the reins of Raymond Limited as
Chairman & Managing Director in September 2000. Since then he has steered the destiny of
Raymond Limited with a single-minded focus of making Raymond an internationally reputed
fibre to fashion player. He has been responsible for the strategic decision of restructuring the
Group, initiating the divestment of its noncore businesses of Steel, Cement and Synthetics.

Dr. VIJAYPAT SINGHANIA (CHAIRMAN EMERITUS) During his tenure the Company
diversified/expanded its activities into men’s suits, ready-made garments, cement, steel,
Polyester Filament Yarn, denims, cosmetics and prophylactics. He expanded the files plant
in Indonesia and the woolen plant in Kenya & made them into very respected and profitable
ventures in those countries.

Smt. NAWAZ GAUTAM SINGHANIA (DIRECTOR) Smt. Nawaz Gautam Singhania was
appointed as a Non-Executive Director on the Board on April 30, 2014. Smt. Singhania is 45
years old and holds a Graduate degree in Arts and a Post Graduate degree in Law from the
University of Mumbai.

I.D. AGARWAL (INDEPENDENT DIRECTOR) Shri Ishwar Das Agarwal is a Chairman of

Remuneration and Nomination Committee and a member of the Audit Committee and
Corporate Social Responsibility Committee of the Board of Directors of the Company.

NABANKUR GUPTA (INDEPENDENT DIRECTOR) Shri Nabankur Gupta is a Non-

Executive Independent Director of the Company since January 15, 2001. Currently, he has
been appointed as an Independent Director under Companies Act, 2013, to hold office for a
period of five years with effect from January 1, 2015 who is not liable to retire by rotation.

PRADEEP GUHA (INDEPENDENT DIRECTOR) Shri Pradeep Guha is a member of the

Remuneration and Nomination Committee, Corporate Social Responsibility Committee and
the Audit Committee of the Board of Directors of the Company.

BOMAN R. IRANI (INDEPENDENT DIRECTOR) Shri Boman Irani is a Non-Executive

Independent Director of the Company since April 21, 2011. Currently, he has been
appointed as an Independent Director under Companies Act, 2013, to hold office for a period
of five years with effect from January 1, 2015 who is not liable to retire by rotation.

H. SUNDER (PRESIDENT CORPORATE AFFAIRS AND WHOLE-TIME DIRECTOR) Shri

Sunder joined Raymond Limited as General Manager (Corporate Planning) in May 2000 and
thereafter got elevated as Director and Vice President. Prior to his appointment to the Board
in the year 2011, he was the President – Finance and Chief Financial Officer of the
Company. He has been with the Company for over 14 years and his tenure as a Whole-time
director is contractual.

COMPANY PROFILE
( SUIT PLANT- RAYMOND LTD., GAURIBIDANUR) • Raymond Ltd. Gauribidanur was
inaugurated on 24th Oct. 2008. • This is a suit, jacket, waistcoat & trouser manufacturing
plant. • The total area is 11 acres and the buildup area is 2, 00,000 square feet. • The total
workforce is 2120. (Including staff) Raymond Ltd. Suit Plant is a 100% subsidiary of
Raymond Group of Industries. Raymond Group has become within a short period of time
since its incorporation in 1925 a major global conglomerate. The Group Raymond was set
up as a textile Indian major and it has always nurtured leadership and quality. The chairman
and managing director of the group is Gautam Hari Singhania. The Label Raymond
manufactures the finest fabrics in the world from wool worsted blended suiting to wool to
shirting’s of high value as well as ring specialty denims. Raymond Label is one of the leading
groups in the designer wear, engineering tools & files, denim, air charter and prophylactics
services in both international and national markets, cosmetics & toiletries, and fabrics. The
group has a very wide range of more than 12,000 varieties of suiting’s that cater to
consumers across all age groups, styles, and occasions. Raymond Group after making its
mark in the textile sector entered the garmenting sector through ventures such as Ever Blue
Apparel Ltd, Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, and Celebrations Apparel Ltd and Raymond Ltd. Suit
Plant.

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BASIC INFORMATION

Company Name

RAYMOND LIMITED

Chairman and Managing Director MR. GAUTAM HARI SINGHANIA. Raymond Limited
Industry Name Address

Contact detail GENERAL MANAGER

Silver Spark Apparel Limited Unit-II, No. - 4/2A, 5/3A, 3B Gundapura village , kasba hobli
Gauribidanur taluk, Chikkaballapur dist. Karnataka, pin- 561208 Tel - +91855-283288

Silver Spark Apparel Limited Unit-II

MR. KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN

Type of Manufacturing

APPAREL MANUFACTURING

Year of Establishment

24 October 2008

Area
11 Acres and build up area 2,00,000 sq. feet

Core Products

Jacket Trouser Waist Coat

Manpower

2100 (including staff)

Capacity per day

JACKET-3300 TROUSER-3000 55 countries in North America, Europe and Asia

Business across the world

11

CLIENTS

12

ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE AT RAYMOND LTD.

GENERAL MANAGER

PLANT MANAGER

FABRIC AND TRIMS STORES

CUTTING

SENIOR MANAGER QUALITY ASSURANCE

MANAGER INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING

FABRIC AND TRIMS STORES

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING

CUTTING

UTILITY AND MAINTENANCE

HEAD HR & ADMIN

DEPUTY MANAGER-HR
HUMAN RESOURCES

COMPLIANCE AND HEALTH & SAFETY

TROUSER SEWING TROUSER SEWING

COMPENSATION & BENIFIT

JACKET SEWING

TROUSER FINSHING JACKET FINSHING WAREHOUSE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

JACKET SEWING WELFARE & REEC

TROUSER FINSHING JACKET FINSHING

ADMIN & EMPLOYEE ENGAGEMENT

HR ASSISTANTS

13

    WORKFLOW IN DEPARTMENTS The business is headed by Plant Head who,

further, has functional heads supporting him:

Production Merchandising Head Production Head (Jacket & Trouser) Finishing Head (Jacket
& Trouser) Quality Head HR/Admin Head

The respective managers of Trims Store, Cutting Department, Industrial Engineering,

Sewing Department, Quality, Finishing & Maintenance department directly report to the Plant
Head. The head of department has an indirect reporting responsibility to the Merchandising
Department. The Merchandising Department has a major role to play and is involved in
every stage of the product development. The Head of Merchandising heads the activities in
the three departments namely merchandising, purchase department and fabric department.
The Head (HR/Admin) heads the activities of the HR department, Admin department and the
IT department. The Plant Head reports to the General Manager for the various activities and
major decision making in the departments. The work flow of Raymond Ltd is a planned and
coordinated effort from all the departments. Giving the importance to quality and precision,
checks are performed at every stage of Manufacture right from pre-production to post-
production. There are 12 different departments in Raymond Ltd. They are: 1. Merchandising
Department 2. Product development 3. Planning Department 4. Fabric Department 5. Trim
Store 6. Cutting Department 7. Sewing Department 8. Finishing Department 9. Quality
Assurance 10. Industrial Engineering

14

11. Maintenance Department 12. Utility Department 13. Human Resource & Administration
Department 14. Information Technology Department 15. Training Department All these
departments are directly or indirectly related to the process of production. The following
flowchart will explain the working of departments, which are directly involved for the process
of production right from receipt and conformation of order to purchase than production to
final finishing processes. Note: In SSA Ltd - II, there is no separate department for
marketing/merchandising. Thus the marketing and merchandising activities are being carried
out at Head Office and then coordinated. SSAL-II has its in-house Production merchandising
Department which takes care of the availability of materials and trims required for
production. Thus, SSAL-II procures materials required for production from Head Office.

15

INFRASTRUCTURE The unit is ASIA’s LARGEST SINGLE FLOOR SUIT MANUFACTING

UNIT IN ASIA. Raymond Group is equipped with many manufacturing units in Banglore,
Dadballapur, Gauribidnaur, Vapi, Mumbai, Chinwarda. The Group is all set to establish more
and more manufacturing unit near Hindupur (near Gauribidnaur). It will further enhance the
production capacity of the Group. Offices strategically located all over India are operating
with a commitment to excel. Ultramodern technologies lead the Group ahead of the
competitors. It plays the key role in producing the products of superior quality. The unique
blend of modern technologies from all over the world has enabled Raymond Group to
maximize its capability. The latest highlighted-tech machinery is used at every stage, from -
designing (CAD), Cutting (Digitizers, Plotters & Automated Cutting Machines) to Fusing.
CUTTING-The cutting section is equipped with the Gerber & morgan spreader and cutter
that ensure 100% perfection. It improves turnaround times and expedites the cutting process
with minimal waste and cost. The section also has Band Knife machine and Fusing
machines. Most modern CAD systems from Gerber, Intellocut and Lectra are employed for
Computerized Precision Pattern Making, Grading and Marking System. The facility also has
5 CNC cutters. Advanced designing system and elaborate matching processes are
employed to achieve intricate patterns and sophisticated illustration. Both machine and
manual methods are employed for cutting and spreading. STITCHING-With its wide range of
advanced machinery & proficient labor capable of producing stylized garments with
perfection & finesse, the sewing section has a hi-tech infrastructure. The production lines are
UPS based. The production lines are fully integrated and operational with various types of
powered sewing machines from Brother, Juki, Pegasus, Pfaff, DA, & special machines like
Computerized Welt Pocketing Machine, Belt Loop Attachment Machines, Multi Needle
Kansai Special Machines & Special sleeve attaching machine. Finishing-Hi-tech machinery
and cutting edge technology facilitate high quality wrinklefree finishing. Various pressing
machines and heat transferring machines are available to ensure improvement in high
functional performance of the garment through specialty finishing. There are 13 types of
buck pressing machine for perfect finish. Final Inspection-Silver spark has an efficient Final
Inspection Department equipped with the latest equipments. This section plays the most
crucial role in ensuring 100% perfection of all the products. It is inspected that all the
features demanded by the clients are designed or not. The experts thoroughly check all the
products to make sure that the perfect products are delivered to the client. The products
carry the brand image of the company. That’s why utmost care has been taken in this
section to ensure that all the products are faultless.

16
COMPLETE PROCESS FLOW

17

  PRODUCT RANGE

There are three different types of products made: Jacket Trouser Vest Coast

Full Canvas Half Canvas 1. JacketThe different types of jackets made in are:

Floating Canvas



No vent Single Centre Vent Double vent (one on each side)



Single Breasted Double Breasted

18

With inside lining Flat front  Single pleated  Double pleated 2. TrouserThe different
types of trousers made are:

Full Canvas Half Canvas 3. Vest CoatThe different types of vest coat made are:

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            IN HOUSE PRODUCTION MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT In

Raymond Ltd, there is no separate department for marketing/merchandising. Thus the
marketing and merchandising activities are being carried out at Silver Spark and then
coordinated to Raymond. Raymond has its in-house Production merchandising Department
which takes care of the availability of materials and trims required for production. Thus,
Raymond procures materials required for production from Silver Spark. Merchandising is a
process through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to the
buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to
finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers
work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The
teams are made according to the buyers being handled. In an export house, merchandising
is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior merchandisers have
responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles
that meets buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point. Junior
merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with
buyers, overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the
necessary paper work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get
samples approved for fit, color and quality. Communications with overseas and domestic
suppliers, approval of production samples, and development of fabric and yarns are also
included in product development, which are co-coordinated with other departments.
Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules,
and investigate for future buyers. Overall we can say that merchandising is the core
department of the entire industry. THE FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT ARE:

Generation of orders depending on production capacity Sample approvals Purchase co-

ordination Generation of BOM Delivery of shipment Time & Action calendar Product
Development Market and product Analysis Booking orders Confirming Deliveries Designing
and Sampling Costing Raw Material

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

Flow Monitoring Production Follow Ups Payments Follow

       DOCUMENTS MAINTAINED:

Job Card Buyer’s Specification File Lab Testing Report Order Tracking Sheet And Its Status
Shrinkage Testing Report Cost Sheet Trim Card Order performance report

FLOW CHART

21

               COSTING: The most important activity for the merchant is to

estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of production before the buyer sends on his
PO .During the pre-development stage an initial costing occurs to get an idea of the garment
cost likely to be incurred per piece. Some important considerations in costing are as
following:

Yarn costs Process costs (printing, embroidery, washing, etc.) Process loss Cut Make Trim
Cost (CMT) Commission percentage (%) for middleman. Shortages Quantity Currency Buyer
specifications Negotiation (getting the best out of a deal) Mode of shipment (by sea/ by air)
FOB (Free On Board) CIF (Cost, Insurance and Freight) OH (Overhead Costs) Quota (Not
applicable) Profit (level of %).

Taking into considerations all the above mentioned, the merchant prepares the cost sheet
with profit and sends to buyer for approval.

22

MANPOWER IN MERCHANDISING
23

PATTERN DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT

It is the job of the Pattern Masters in the Pattern Making Department to prepare the base
size pattern of a style from which samples are prepared. These patterns are later modified
according to buyer comments. The Pattern Masters may either produce the patterns
manually on cardboards or they use the Software. This pattern is then used to cut the fabrics
in Sample Production Department. They also discuss quality issues with nominated Buyer
QA. It is responsible for creating the patterns both hard and soft once the order has been
confirmed. They receive patterns from buyer but changes have to be made to it for perfect
fit. Grading is also their responsibility. They use Gerber software for their work They have a
digitizer to digitalize manual patterns. Their internal customer is Cutting, CAD and Sampling
department.

24

DEPARTMENT LAYOUT

25

ORGANIZATION CHART

KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN GENERAL MANAGER SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.

HIRAL N LAKDAWALA PLANT MANAGER PRODUCTION

PATTERN

SUNIL BHARDWAJ TECHNICAL ASSISTANT

PATTERN

REPORT TO

RENU EXECUTIVE

PATTERN

REPORT TO

ANIL/JAGDISH PATTERN MASTER

FABRIC KAVITHA TEAM LEADER

REPORT TO

26
sop

27

PATTERN MEASUREMENT MODULE FOR JACKET

28

29

30

PATTERN ALLOWANCE

OPEN MEASUREMENT

CLOSE MEASUREMENT

PURPOSE

First Button from Shoulder 5mm-6 mm Seam at Neck

5mm-6mm

Chest fullness

Dart spacing from point to 3mm point at the top of Dart

3mm

Piping/folding safer side

for

Dart from CF at lower pocket 3mm

3mm

Piping/folding safer side

for

Front Dart Length

5mm

5mm
Margin given bone stitching

for

Chest Pocket from Shoulder 3mm Seam at Neck

3mm

Chest fullness

Length from CB Neck

3mm

3mm

Bottom folding/ for safer side

Across Shoulder Bust/Chest

-3mm 6mm

-3mm 150 mm

Bias, seam pressing Safer side

6mm from 7mm

6mm 7mm

Vent tacking, folding Chest canvas fullness , Stitching shrinkage

below 3mm

3mm

Stitching shrinkage

Seat Armhole Depth HPS(Squared) Muscle/Bicep Armhole

1"

canvas

Elbow 8" from Armhole

2.5mm
2.5mm

Stitching shrinkage

Lapel Width

-2mm

-2mm

Piping/folding

31

SAMPLING DEPARTMEN

Garment sampling is very much important process. It is a model of what the bulk production
is going to be done. The sampling is quite difficult but it will make the buyers to get
attractiveness towards the industry. Because the buyers generally places the order after they
are satisfied with the quality of the samples. Garment sampling is a very important task in an
apparel manufacturing because it gives the satisfaction of the customer with respect to the
product being manufactured. This is in turn important because if the buyer is not satisfied by
the samples, this puts the following at risk: i. ii.

Placement of the order Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments produced

32

The sampling department is in constant touch with the marketing department, which
generates the order. The buyer supplies the specification sheet depending on which the
patterns are developed. The samples decide the ability of the exporter. The buyers access
the exporter and his organization only on the samples. If the samples are of good quality and
with reasonable price naturally the buyer will be forced to place the order. By doing sampling
the exporter gets to know the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on
costing more over the manufacturing difficulties.

 Once the buyer approves the patterns, sampling is done in jumping sizes and sent to the
buyer for approval. There are a variety of samples generated at various stages. Once the
pre-production sample is approved mass production starts OBJECTIVES



Getting approvals from buyers based on the samples produced. The Sampling Department
produces the base patterns from which the samples are produced and send to the buyer for
approval, if there are any changes or alterations to be done in the pattern then the buyer
informs the Merchandiser who in turn asks the Sampling Department to make the necessary
changes in the Pattern. Getting pre-production approvals on the fittings, constructions,
quality, fabric and trims of the style. Checking and analyzing new styles, defining quality
terms of new styles to production department. Sending samples to buyers on their request
such as Proto Sample Fit Sample Photo shoot Sample & Ad Sample Sealer Sample
Salesmen Sample Pre Production Sample Top Sample GPT Sample

33

   FUNCTION



The sampling department also calculates the consumption of fabric required to produce the
garment. The sampling department also access for accessories and thread consumption for
that particular garment. Based on the sampled garment the costing is been carried out.
When all the Pre-Production Sample is approved by the buyer, the Sampling Department
forwards the Production Marker, which has all the graded sizes of the approved pattern to
the Cutting Department. The Details Attached to the Garment Sample After the confirmation
of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help
of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what
supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable). Ref no. Color Fabric Composition
Description Quantity Style no. / Size

34

PLANT LAYOUT

35

ORGANISATION CHART

KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN GENERAL MANAGER SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.

HIRAL N LAKDAWALA

BRIJ KISHORE SHARMA

PLANT MANAGER PRODUCTION

SENIOR MANAGER QUALITY ASSUARNACE

REPORT TO

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

REPORT TO

VENKATESH TECHNICIAN
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

REPORT TO

ANURADHA EXECUTIVE

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

REPORT TO

SHARDA EXECUTIVE

FABRIC

SOBHA ASSOCIATE

SAMPLIN DEPARTMENT

SAMPLING DEPARTMNET

MURTHI

SHASHI

QUALITY (TROUSER)

QUALITY (JACKET/VEST COAT)

CUTTING/SEWING/FINISHING OPERATOR 0)

REPORT TO

REPORT TO

36

SOP

37

EMPLOYES DETAILS S. NO.

NAME

ROLE AND RESPONSIBILITIES

1 VENKATESH 2 ANURADHA 3 SHARDA 4 OMKAR 5 SOBHA 6 SHASHI 7 MURTHI

CUTTING 9 ANUSHA 10 MAHESH SAMPLE TAILOR (JACKET/TROUSER) 12 ANVER 13
RIYAZ 14 NINGRAJ 15 SIRAJ

JACKET TECHNICIAN EXECUTIVE: EXECUTIVE: ENGINEER SUPERVISOR

(TROUSER/VEST COAT): QUALITY (JACKET/VEST COAT): QUALITY (TROUSER):
MANUAL CUTTING MANUAL CUTTING JACKET SAMPLE TAILOR JACKET SAMPLE
TAILOR TROUSER/VEST COAT SAMPLE TAILOR TROUSER/VEST COAT SAMPLE
TAILOR

Operator (Jacket): 1. Varalakshmi

2. Indriyani

3. Shridevi

4.Pavitra

Operator (Trouser/Vest Coat): 1. Girijamma

2. Geetamma

3. Sumati

TYPES OF SAMPLES 1. Proto sample:This is the first sample being prepared from
substitute fabric in only one size. This sample is sent to buyer agent if not in some cased to
buyer itself. The pattern prepared for proto sample does not contain seam allowances. This
sample is prepared just to get the garment outlook and size. 2. Fit sample:Fit samples are
those samples that are made after getting the order sheets. These samples are needed to
check the measurements, style, and fit. They can be made available in similar fabrics in the
actual measurements and specifications. In many cases, the samples are worn by highly
paid models. The buyer arranges the photoshoot session. In this sample stitch construction
is mentioned. The grain cutting direction is mentioned as per the

38

buyer requirements as well as the stitching instructions of the different parts of garment. The
accurate dimensions of the garment are also specified. 3. Salesman sample: In this type of
samples, a sample size of altogether 50 pieces in different sizes is sent to buyer. The buyer
will have certain buying houses or showrooms where the samples are put on display for
sale. The pattern prepared for salesmen sample, will contain seam allowances as lay is
been made for cutting the above 50 pieces. Fabric used is original with all trims. 5. Size set
samples: This sample is been prepared in order to check perfect fit to the garment. In all
sizes one sample is sent to the buyer to check the fit. Based on this sample the buyer sends
comments regarding the size fit if any. In certain cases the fabric may be of substitute fabric.
6. Pre-Production samples: These samples are almost like the approval samples. They are
made in actual fabric with actual bulk trims. In this sample all accessories and fabric being
original. The Q.C. in the production selects one sample and sends it to the Merchandiser;
the latter checked and then sends it to the buyer. 7. Production samples: Production
samples are samples that are sent before the shipment to get confirmation for shipment.
These samples have to be perfect, because they might be checked by the buyer or even
washed. 8. Top samples: This is the sample is been prepared in the production line during
production hours. One or two samples being sent to the buyer to give the knowledge of the
garment how is being stitched in the production line. Only certain buyers do ask for TOP
samples. 9. Shipment sample: Here one or two samples to be sent to the buyer to give
knowledge of what is being sent to the buyer through shipment. Certain buyers do ask for
this type of samples though this sample is not sent usually. 10. Garment package test: The
checking of the trims of sample at final step takes place according to the buyer spec sheet.
Color fastness, strength, crocking of the sample is testing is done.

39

FABRIC STORE

    The fabric store is the central warehouse for the storage of fabrics required for
production. Fabric stores will take care of received fabric lot as per the standard procedures.
When the fabric is received from the supplier, it is received along with an invoice which will
contain the order reference number and the buyer name. The fabric rolls are then checked
whether the invoice quantity and the actual quantity are same or not. After finishing the
formalities of fabric in warding bales will be stacked according to buyer/colors. THE MAIN
FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT ARE:

Receive the fabric as per BOM Inspect the fabric Conduct shrinkage and color-fastness tests
Issue to spreading department as per plan Receive the end bits

40

PLANT LAYOUT

41

ORGANISATION CHART

KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN GENERAL MANAGER SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.

HIRAL N LAKDAWALA

BRIJ KISHORE SHARMA

PLANT MANAGER PRODUCTION

SENIOR MANAGER QUALITY ASSUARNACE

FABRIC & TRIMS

FABRIC

HEMANT GONEKA
DUSHMANTH

REPO

DEPUTY MANAGER

QUALITY CONTROLLER

RT TO

FABRIC & TRIMS

REPORT TO

SATYABHUSHAN DAS EXECUTIVE

FABRIC

REPORT TO

MADIHA FABRIC IN CHARGE

FABRIC

MANJULA ASSOCIATE

FABRIC KAVITHA TEAM LEADER

FABRIC OPERATOR

REPORT TO

REPORT TO

42

SOP

43

EMPLOYES DETAILS

S. No.

NAME

Role and Responsibilities

123

Mr. Hemant Goneka Mr. Satyabhushan Das Madiha Farheen

4567

Manjula Dushmanth Gangadevi R Jyothi

Deputy Manager: Executive: Production & Quality Engineer: Fabric Associate: Quality
Controller Swatch Card & Shade Card Swatch Card & Shade Card

8 9 10 11

Manjula M.G Prabhavathi R Manjula Gayathri G

Bale Opening Bale Opening Bale Opening Inspection

12

Nalina K.N

Inspection

13

Mala

Inspection

14 15

Gangarathmma Shilpa

Inspection Inspection

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Suguna Prema Nagmani Arathi G Arathi K C Shalini R Sri Devi C.G Kavitha K Radha E
Nandini K. N

Bar Coding Bar Coding Width Report Width Report Stage Issues Physical Issues-Jacket
Physical Issues-Trouser Shrinkage 11 parameters Stock Tally GRN & MTN

Kavitha K.S

Out wording
26

Area

Swatch Card Area Sponging m/c & Rack G&F Bale opening Area 1 Rack C & B Bale
Opening Area 2 Inspection M/C3& Rack U&T Inspection M/C4& Rack M&L Inspection
M/C4& Rack E&D Inspection M/C 5,6 & 7 Inspection M/C4& Rack W&V Rack G&F Bar
Coding Area CAD CAD CAD Rack K & J Rack S & R Shrinkage Area CAD Inspection M/C4
& Rack M&L System area and all orders

44

        TYPE OF FABRICS STORED IN THE DEPARTMENT IS:

Shell Lining Pocketing Felt Fusing Canvas Fabric Issue for: Production Sample Pieces

 FABRIC ISSUE TO:

Cutting Department Sampling Department

    COMMUNICATION WITH DEPARTMENT

Fabric Office CAD department Sampling Department Planning & Merchandising Spreading &
Cutting department

45

MACHINE AND TROLLY DETAILS MACHINE DETAIL S. no.

Machine Name

Machine detail

No. of machine Area

1234

Sponging machine Relaxation machine Inspection machine Shade Box

WESHI WESHI WEISHI WESHI

1271

Sponging area Relaxation area Inspection area Shade box area

TROLLY S. no.

Area
Color

No.of Trolly

1. 2. 3. 4.

Unloading Fabric department Spreading Capacity

Yellow Yellow Blue Average 50 rolls

2316

TABLE AND TUBE LIGHT S. no.

Table

Tube light

1. 2. 3. 4.

Bale Opening Area-1 Relaxation Area-1 Round table (today’s plan) Chair

Round tableShrinkageRack area-

3 1 8x4=32 4

COMPUTER SYSTEM S. no.

Computer System

Brand name

1. 2.

Round table (today’s plan) HP Bar coding HP

No. of person

No. of Computer System

31

31

46

MACHINE USED IN FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT:1. Inspection machine. 2.

Sponging machine. 3. Relaxation machine. 4. Shade box machine.

MANUFACTURER: SHANGHAI WESHI MACHINERY CO., LTD. SERIAL NO: 08368B005

 TOTAL POWER: 1.8 Kw  INSPECTION SPEED: 0-20 n/min  STRETCH ADJUSTMENT:
0-200N  SPEED: 0-6 m/min  MAX ROLL DIAMETER: 350mm  Machine model no.- YBJ-
180  Machine details: Inspection machine:- In inspection machine we do inspection of
fabric in 4 point system.

INSPECTION MACHINE

47

 Power supply -380V  MACHINE DETAILS SPONGING MACHINE:- Sponging is done to

control shrinkage in wool and wool blend fabric. This process is quite effective in removing
relaxation shrinkage and any inherent strains within the fabric structure. It is applied to wool
fabric before cutting to prevent possible contractions of the fabric in the finished garment.
The machine has four different chambers where pre steaming, steaming and drying of the
fabric is done.

Steam pressure- 5kg/cm2

Steam consumption- 100-150kg/h

Rate output of motor kW -2.78kw

Rate output of heater kW -15kw

Working width-1800mm

Speed- 3-8m/min

Dimension -4500*2500*2000mm

SPONGING MACHINE
48

RELAXATION MACHINE: In relaxation machine the lycra fabric is relaxed to avoid shrinkage
during the production process as per the buyer’s requirement. The fabric is hanged for 24
hours and they are supplied to the cutting department in the same condition.

SHADE BOX MACHINE: Machine deals with the checking of the shade of the fabric.

49

QUALITY IN FABRIC DEPARTMENT

 CHECKING OF FABRIC: The fabrics received are checked by 4-point system:

100% random inspection for Trouser 100% inspection for Suit and Jacket fabric

   The fabrics are checked for:

Width Shade (center to selvedge) Weaving defects Shrinkage (steam & fusing) (6 machines)

Sponging and relaxation is done for preventing fabric shrinkage. All the rolls of fabric are
properly coded before loading onto racks.

Shade band card. Colour fastness card.  Inspection report.  Shrinkage report.  Bowing
report.  CSV report.  Shade report.  Width report. 11 PARAMETER:

SNo. Parameter 1

Width

Details

Width is checked thrice in the entire roll; beginning, approximate halfwayChecked on fabric
inspection machine while the roll is being inspected & If very less variation is observed,
least width is kept on record If a lot of variation is observed, approval from Merchandising
Department is required end

50

Length



3
Defect Checking



4 

Shrinkage



CSV

Actual length is recorded by the fabric inspection machine itself If a lot of variation is
observed, supplier is contacted If very less variation is observed, the roll is passed further
Defects are checked by operators on the fabric inspection machine using the 4-Point System
Types of defects & points given to them are recorded on a sheet by the operator If points >
40, roll is rejected If points < 40, roll is accepted Roll no., width & length are written Tape is
put on the edges of the roll Shrinkage is of two types: Steam & Fusing To inspect shrinkage,
two swatches from each roll are cut Size of the swatch is 30cm x 30cm Marking using a
template at 25cm x 25cm is done to prevent errors due to fraying of fabric One swatch is
fused with a fusing in the fusing machine The other swatch is steam pressed The fabric
swatches are measured again Variations are recorded in the report

A fabric panel which had been cut out of the entire width of the roll is vertically cut in 4
pieces 1 2 3 4

They are attached in such a way that the centre of one piece is attached to the selvedge in
another piece 2 4 1 3

The swatch is then checked in light box for shade variations between centre & selvedge No
CSV or CSV is mentioned in the Width Report accordingly

51

7
Bowing

Colour Fastness



A fabric panel had been cut out of the entire width of the roll It is kept at the edge of the table
If there is difference, the fabric panel is folded double and variation is measured



Bowing is calculated using the formulae d/w x 100 Where d is variation w is width If bowing <
4, it is accepted The result is mentioned in the width report

Two swatches, one from shell & other from white pocketing fabric are cut They are together
treated with water, white petrol & air The pocketing fabric is then checked for patch of colour
bleeding from the shell fabric If colour bleeding occurs, approval from Merchandising
Department is required



Shade



A swatch is cut from all the rolls Shade is checked in the light box & categorized A swatch
card is prepared where all shades of all fabrics are mentioned & swatches of each are
affixed This is for further reference; while cutting, no two shade panels will be stitched
together

Hand Feel

Hand feel is checked manually from the swatches cut from each roll

10

Face Side

Selvedge is checked for right & wrong side of fabric

52

These are some of the defects that are found in fabric roll during inspection:

Double Pick

Lashing inn

Knots

Missing Pick

Holes

Sticky Yarn

Slubs Contamination

Multiple End Out

Tight end

Seer Sucker

Weft Bar floats

Broken Pick

Stain / Soils

Distortion

Dyeing Grease

Stop Marks

Missing / Floating Ends

Loose Ends

53

FABRIC STORAGE Sponging and relaxation is done for preventing fabric shrinkage. All the
rolls of fabric are properly coded before loading onto rack There are 22 racks(A, B , C…)
with 10 compartment (1-10) each. Each compartment is having 3 levels(a, b &  c).

The store capacity is around 3 lakh mtrs (including fusing & pocketing). The value of
materials stored is around 7-8 crores Daily issue of fabric: Trouser – 8000 m & Jacket –
4000 m

Block

Material

Lining and fusing

Shell

Mixed

Lining

Sampling fabric

Fusing

Mixed

Felt

End bits

Canvas

Q
Pocketing

Pocketing

Sample storage

Inspection OK goods

Lining

Inspection OK goods

Lining

Valuable goods

Fusing

Reject goods

Felt

Shrinkage bits

Further these racks are divided into 10 sections each. Side view of these racks is as follows:
A 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
1/A 2/A 3/A 4/A 5/A 6/A 7/A 8/A 9/A 10/A

B 1/B 2/B 3/B 4/B 5/B 6/B 7/B 8/B 9/B 10/B

C 1/C 2/C 3/C 4/C 5/C 6/C 7/C 8/C 9/C 10/C

54

TRIMS DEPARTMENT

    OBJECTIVE:

To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables To arrange an
incoming material in an allocated racks To issue trims as per production planning & other
material as per requirement To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material To do audit
to check physical inventory

FUNCTION OF TRIMS AND PACKAGING DEPARTMENT



To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables To arrange an
incoming material in an allocated racks To issue trims as per production planning & other
material as per requirement To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material To do audit
to check physical inventory

55

PLANT LAYOUT

56

ORGANISATION CHART

KAUSHALENDRA NARAYAN GENERAL MANAGER SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.

HIRAL N LAKDAWALA PLANT MANAGER PRODUCTION

BRIJ KISHORE SHARMA SENIOR MANAGER QUALITY ASSUARNACE

FABRIC & TRIMS

HEMANT GONEKA DEPUTY MANAGER

TRIMS & PACKAGING

MUBARAK QUALITY CONTROLLER

FABRIC & TRIMS

REPORT TO

SATYABHUSHAN DAS EXECUTIVE

TRIMS & PACKAGING

REPORT TO

B.K GUPTA ASSISTANT

TRIMS & PACKAGING PRADEEP STORE IN CHARGE

TRIMS & PACKAGING RANGAMANI TEAM LEADER

TRIMS & PACKAGING OPERATOR

REPORT TO

REPORT TO

REPORT TO

57

SOP

58

Sewing threadMATERIAL SEGREGATION Sewing Trims

Poly BagPackaging Trims

Waist band lining

Carton Box



Band Roll: Waist Band, loop Fusing: Waist Band, Loop, Part Button Zipper & slider Hook &
Bar Label:Size,Wash care,Brand


Hanger Jet Clip Staple Pin Tag Size

Brand

Wash care

CelloTape



TRIMS & ACCESSORIES DETAILS (FOR JACKET) 1)

Shoulder pad

2)

Thread

3)

Satin tape

4)

Size label

5)

Neck label

6)

Content/Care label

7)

Sleeve label
8)

Main label or brand label

9)

Bridle tape Felling tape

10)

Besom tape

11)

Armhole tape

12)

Double sided fusing with paper

13)

Double sided fusing without paper

14)

Poly bag

15)

Hanger

 Spare Part Other Trims

Stationary

59

       QUALITY IN TRIMS AND PACAKGING DEPARTMENT The points inspected in

all trims are:

Trim broken. Incorrect color. Incorrect size. Trim not as specified. Trim bleeding/ migration
Miscellaneous trim defects Trims length Uniformity of trims

The Quality criteria is AQL 2.5 All the trims received are checked for quality defects.
Acceptable quality level followed for trims is as follows

Quantity Received
Sample Size

Accepted

Rejected

0-280 281-500

13 20

01

12

501-1200

32

1201-3200 3201-10000

50 80

35

46

10001-35000

125

35001 and above

300

14

15

60
CUTTING AND SPREADING Cutting is the pre-production process of separating a spread
into garment parts that are of precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker. The
cutting process may also involve transferring marks and notches from the marker to the
garment parts to assist operators in sewing. Where large quantities of a garment style are to
be cut, a lay is created which consist of many plies of fabric spread one above the other.
From this, all the garment pieces for all the sizes that have been planned for that lay are cut.
The pattern shapes for these garments are present on a printed paper marker placed on top
of the lay. Chopping or sectioning a spread into blocks of piece goods may precede
precision cutting of individual pattern shapes. This is often done to allow accurate matching
of fabric design or easier manipulation of a cutting knife. Once the marker is made, pattern
pieces must be cut out of the specified fabric, a process called "cutting." Currently, several
cutting techniques exist, ranging from low- to high-tech. Although scissors are used very
rarely-only when working with very small batches or sensitive fabrics-cutting continues to be
done by hand, particularly in many lower volume establishments. Here, cutters guide electric
cutting machines around the perimeter of pattern pieces, cutting through the fabric stack. An
electric drill may be used to make pattern notches. The accuracy and efficiency of this
system is considerably less than in computerized cutting systems. Computerized cutting
systems are achieving more widespread use as technology costs decrease and labor costs
rise. These computer-driven automated cutters utilize vacuum technology to hold stacks of
fabric in place while cutting. Cutting blades are sharpened automatically based upon the
type of fabric being cut. Gerber Garment Technology manufactures one of the most
commonly used cutting systems. This technology has the advantage of being highly
accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more than other cutting techniques. The
cutting department is responsible for cutting the lay as per the cutting plan (marker)
generated by the “Planning Department”. After cutting the panels are fused according to the
requirement. This section provides the framework for the processes involved in cutting
section and the production management practices that are incorporated in the cutting area.
Cutting processes are regarded as the most critical process in the garment manufacturing
process. The theory behind this is that here the raw material (fabric is given a form in the
form of cut

61

panels . this means that utmost care must be taken in each and every process because after
cutting most of the times the wrong doing cannot be rectified. Cutting is also a direct
interface for the pattern department by way of making markers. A lot of effort is involved in
making sure that the markers are provided in the required manner to eliminate the chances
of mistakes. Effort goes into making sure that every single details of the style is considered
while marker making. That is why cutting plays a vital role in having a correct pattern. Cutting
coasts form a bulk of manufacturing costs. An automated cutting room forms almost 50% of
the stationary,spares, consumables cost. Overall, cutting costs incorporated about 25 % to
30 % of the manufacturing expenses. Automated cutting room also involves highly accurate
CNC machine which run on an established technology and there by maintenance become
very important. Preventive maintenance and TPM activities are carried out in a very efficient
manner.

62
DEPARTMENT LAYOUT

63

ORGANIZATION CHART

64

SOP

65

SOFTWARE DETAILS` SOFTWARE

USES

Gerber version 8.2 Morgan Technica

Pattern making, Pattern grading, Marker making Cut plan, Numbering sequence

Accunest

Marker making of small parts

Cut issue & FCR generator

Cut issue slip, Final cut report

Intellocut

Cut Plan

  Cutting department is made of:

CAD section Spreading section Cutting section

CAD section

66

Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting. CUTTING ORDERS LEADS TO
Determining most effective use of spreading and cutting machine and personnel. 
Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization.  Determining
whether file markers are available or new ones are needed.  Determining volume, size
ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making.  Examining incoming orders and
piece goods width and availability. Responsibilities of cut order planning
MARKER PLANNING

LAY PLANNING

Cutting time Spreading time and  Spread length,  Type of machine,  Table length, 
Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:  Lay planning is the basis of managing
cutting room labor and table space.  A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared
for cutting.  One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.
 The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes
and shades for each order and to produce the basic fabric yield and e=machine utilization. 
The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut
planning. Marker planning

67

Fabric layer n or ply n

  Fabric fabric layer 4 or ply 4 layer/lay fabric layer 1 or ply 1 Marker making It is a
process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified stlye, fabric
and distribution of sizes(requires time, skill and concentration).

Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process. By retaining strict control over
this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low as possible. It also ensures that
the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These include placing patterns on
grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such as drill holes and notches.
Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save or
waste thousands of rupees a year.

Markers types:

Continuous markers contain all the pattern pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting.
Continuous  Blocks or sectioned markers contain all of the pattern pieces for one style in
one or two sizes.  Blocks or sections 

Marker types

Manual

Computerized

68

Can be used to determine fabric requirement. Marker efficiency Criteria can be set by
technician.  Can be printed/modified/recalled.  Parameters (style, size, etc) for markers
are entered into the computer.  Manipulate images for best utilization. No overlapping/no
omission.  Direct or digitized.  Shortest response time.  Accurate.  Computerized
marker  Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.  Subject to errors (paper overlap, grain
line, poor line definition, omission of pieces).  Time consuming.  Tracing by pencil or
tailor’s chalk.  Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply.  Manual marker 

It is given by

Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100% Total area of the marker



It is determined for fabric utilization. Minimum waste.

  Factors affecting marker efficiency

Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc). Shape of pattern pieces
(large pieces- less flexibility). Grain requirements.

69

FLOW PROCESS

70

EMPLOYES DETAILS

CAD

SHYLAJA

RUKMANI

MAMATHA K

SANNAMA

ASHWATHAMMA

MUDUGANGAMMA

ROLE AND RESPONSIBILTIES

LAY REPORT CHECKING

PLANNING CHECKING
STRIKER PRINTING

MARKER MAKING

PATTERN CHEKING

MARKER MAKING CHECK POINTS

71

SPREADING SECTION

Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting

table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. Spread or lay is the
total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker.

REQUIREMENTS OF SPREADING:



Shade sorting of clothes pieces. Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability. Alignment of
plies. Correct ply tension. Elimination of fabric faults. Avoidance of distortion in the spread.

Spreading machine. Spreading surfaces such as spreading table (shell, linings etc);
pinning table and vacuum table. SPREADING EQUIPMENT’S:

Spreading

Manual

Machine

MANUAL SPREADING:

In manual spreading fabric is drawn from its package which, if it is a roll, is supported by a
frame and carried along the table where the end is secured by clamps. The operators work
back from the end, aligning the edges and ensuring that there is no tension and that there
are no wrinkles.
72

Manual spreading

 Machine spreading:

A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the speed of travel, to reduce or
eliminate tension in the fabric being spread An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric
edge guides.  A ply counter.  A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the ends
of ply in place.  A platform on which the operator rides.  A motor to drive. Spreading
machines carry the pieces of fabric from end to end of the spread, dispensing only one ply at
a time on the spread. Spreading machine includes:

73

Machine spreading

Spreading Modes: • For Trousers – Solid – Face Up Spreading – Check Stripes – Face to
Face • For Jackets – Face to Face (generally) • For Bulk orders 8 way and 4 way markers
used else 2 way and 1 way. • 6.5 m pin table used for spreading suit and 4 m used for
jackets.

Fabric is to be received from fabric store department along with following details: Usable
fabric width Colour /shade code Length of rolls



Spreading operator is to receive lay report consisting of following details: Purchase Order
Style Number



74





Stretch -warp way Fabric composition Lay Number Lay method –Face up / Face to face
Fabric type –Shell/ Lining /Interlining / Fusing Colour / Shade Lot quantity Marker name
Marker length Lay length Usable fabric width No of plies to be spread Consumption
Standard Spreading Procedure: Spreading operator is to observe a lay report generated
from CAD section for abovementioned detail. Operator is to receive fabric roll from fabric
receipt section as per lay details. Operator is to set the machine parameter as per lay
details. For instance, lay length, no of plies; spreading method and start point. Operator is to
load fabric roll in cradle of spreading machine. Operator is to observe fabric behaviour i.e. &
Fabric stability.weft way

Operator is to spread one ply and check marker length and width of fabric Operator is to
spread 2 to 3 plies & Fabric roll length Fabric usable width  Fabric roll width  Roll
reference number  Face-To-Face spreading: Adjust all four-counter weights After
completion of each roll; operator is to mention following detail in spreading / laying report:
Face Up spreading: Adjust only two counter weights  Stretch: Move the counter weight in
backward direction  Wrinkle: Move the counter weight in forward direction observe for
wrinkle or stretch of fabric. Accordingly, he/she has to adjust the counter weights in forward
or backward direction. Note: Adjustment is as follows:

75



Colour /shade code Usage in meters Balance quantity

Stretch –Warp way Fabric composition Similarly, spreading has to continue for a
required number of plies in a lay. And required numbers of lays are spread to achieve
required cut quantity in purchase order. Operator is to maintain machine and follow daily
maintenance schedule. Spreading Check Points: & No defective or rejected fabric to be
laid Only relaxed/sponged fabric to be spread if buyer required so.  The fabric laid should
never be less than marker width  Fabric laid should be 1 to 1 ½ more than the marker
length  Extreme ends of plies should be aligned  Left side edge of fabric ply should be
aligned to each other  Wrinkle or Stretch in a spread ply  Fabric direction e.g. Nape, Twill
 Fabric stability Weft way & fabric defects should be marked with white chalk

76

LAYING SECTION SPREADING PROCESS

Load Fabric Roll

Position the roll according to start selvedge

Specify the no. of rolls to be laid

Spread the perforated paper on lay table

Set up start end clamp determining lay length

Laying

Start air blow during transferring of lay to cutting m/c end

77

PINNING For fabric required plaid matching (stripes and checks); spreading is done on
pinning tables. Pinning table is essentially consist of intermediate rows and columns of
needles /pins which are so placed that they can be removed in rows along the length by the
means of hand wheel. This enables the spreader to adjust the setting are required. There
will be indications in the marker about the places where the plaid matching is required and
length from zero position will be given. The spreader will at first organize the pin rows
accordingly and then proceed with spreading. Here the fabric lay are passed through a
series of pins. Care should be taken to make sure that the pins don’t damage the fabric but
only displace the yarn. After the spreading process is complete the lay is transported to
cutting process. During transportation, the fabric lays are held together by means of end clip
to make sure that the alignment remains same. Table blower is utilized to help in easy
transportation. Pinning Standard Procedure:









Operator is to observe a lay report generated from CAD section for abovementioned detail.
Operator is to receive fabric roll from fabric receipt section as per lay detail. Operator is to
observe the mini marker to set a needle bar, lay length and matching points. Operator is to
place an insertion bar at the centre of the spreading table. Operator is to spread a brown
sheet on pinning table. Operator is to set marker length and draw a line at a distance of
marker length on brown sheet. After unrolling fabric from fabric stand of pinning table and
before pinning ply on pinning table, operator has to maintain approximately 2-3 ply length of
loose fabric in order to relax fabric and avoid stretch while laying. Operator is to gradually
raise needle by 8-10 mm. Operator is to tear a fabric for first ply of a fabric roll. Operator is to
lay fabric and pin at an extreme end i.e., first needle bar. Operator is to gently take the fabric
at the cutting end i.e., opposite end without pinning & remove wrinkle. Operator has to again
come back to extreme end i.e., first needle bar and pin the remaining pins from left to right
side in a sequence. Note: Both operators should move & pin needle simultaneously Operator
is to cut fabric with end cutter. Similarly, pinning has to continue for a required number of
plies in a lay. And required number of lays is to be spread to achieve required cut quantity in
purchase order.

78

     Pinning Check Point:

Fabric composition. Stretch –Warp way & No defective or rejected fabric to be laid Stripes
or checks to be matched exactly.  Only relaxed/sponged fabric to be spread if buyer
required.  The fabric laid should never be less than marker width.  Fabric laid should be 1
to 1 ½ more than the marker length.  Extreme ends of plies should be aligned. Weft way.
Fabric stability. Fabric direction e.g. Nape, Twill. Wrinkle or Stretch in a spread ply. Fabric
ply edge should be aligned to each other. For Instance, left edge in case of trouser whereas
centre in jacket. & fabric defects should be marked with white chalk. MACHINE DETAILS:

S. No.

Machine

Brand

Number

1.

Automatic Spreader

Morgan

2.

Automatic Spreader

Gerber

3. 4. 5. 6.

Automatic Cutter Automatic Cutter Vacuum Tables Pin Tables (6.5m)

Gerber Morgan Gerber Veith

3152

7.
Pin Tables (4m)

Veith

 8. Band Knife 9. Straight Knife 10. End Cutter 11. Fusing Machines 12. Fusing Machines
13. Fusing Machines

Eastman Eastman Eastman Kannegiessar Weishi Relient Cool Stream

325511

The spreaders are 1.8 metres wide and can spread a fabric roll up to a width of 1.8 metre. 2
Pinning tables are of length 6 metres and 1 of 4 metres.

79

CUTTING SECTION In this process, fabric is being cut into components (shapes or patterns
of different garment parts, i.e. front, back, side panel, sleeve, collar, front and back panel
incase of trouser etc.). in mass production multiple layers of fabric are laid on the table i.e.
spreading and large number of garments is being cut at a time.the laid fabric stack is called
as lay. Cutting of lay is done using straight knife, band knife and automatic CNC cutter ; and
sometimes manual cutting with the help of scissor incase of recutting.

CUTTING

MANUAL

MACHINE

PORTABLE CUTTING KNIVES

STATIONARY CUTTERS

BAND KNIFE STRAIGHT KNIFE

80

Numbering Numbering process is essential giving identity to the individual parts. Two types
of numbering is done: 1. STICKER PLACEMENT: a standard sticker machine is used in
which roller scale and number is placed as per the number sequence given from CAD. 2.
INK STAMPING: this is mechanical machine in which ink pad are placed on the number
generator roll and the setting is made as per the number sequence given from CAD. Repeat
of numbers can also be set by means of a linear scale which will be converted into rotary
action by number movement. Numbering is an important process in the cutting room. It is the
process of giving all the components of a garment a unique number, so that they can be
paired together while sewing. For shell, collar felt and sleeve lining, stickers are put using the
sticker machine, whereas for body lining, the numbers are stamped using a stamping
machine. Problems that can occur due to wrong numbering are enlisted below: 1. Shade
variation. 2. Assembly of face side and wrong side. 3. Different size components assembled
together. The input for the numbering section is the output of the cutting machine. The parts
(shell, lining, collar felt) cut at the cutter are brought to numbering tables. At the numbering
tables, these points must be checked: 1. Cut sticker must be present on all the components.
Any missing cut sticker would lead to wastage of time in finding out the details of the
unnamed components. 2. Check Summary Report to see if correct details are mentioned on
the cut stickers before starting with numbering. Buyer’s name, style number, color, lay
number, size and quantity are checked. 3. Before starting with numbering first time in the
day, clean the stamp with white petrol and cloth to make sure there is no paint. This ensures
that the numbers stamped are clear and easy to read. The stamping machine should be
taped as well.

81

Figure 1: CLEANING NUMBERING M/C 4. Refill the paint in the stamping machine.
Squeeze out the paint from the bottle onto the refill pad. 5. Put new sticker roll in the sticker
machine. 6. The parts are arranged in a manner to ease the process of numbering. This
arrangement differs for: i. Shell (spread face up face down or face to face for jackets) ii.
Lining (spread face up) iii. Small Components iv. Large components

SHELL

LARGE PARTS

Lift two plies at a time; number both on the wrong side.

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LINING

SMALL PARTS

Lift two plies at a time; number both on the wrong side. Separate and remove the mirror
parts.

LARGE PARTS

Arrange the parts in a step wise manner with the help of fingernails, and then stamp one
after the other. Small parts arranged in different ways: flower like arrangement for sweat
shield.

SMALL PARTS

7. The face side of the components is checked to ensure that numbering is not done there. If
not taken care of, this could result in quality issues: wrong side and face side could be
assembled together. In a bundle, WT (pink sticker) depicts wrong side of the topmost layer
and WB (blue sticker) represents wrong side of the last layer in a bundle of components.

83

S.No.

Type of lay

1.

Face to face

2.

Face up face down

3.

Face one way

Marking

8. The number to be put is tallied against the summary sheet and set on the stamp machine
using a pin. In case stickers are being used, it is set on the sticker gun. 9. The frequency of
change is set. For stamp machine, the following options are available:

84

S.No.

Option

Function

1.

No change; Repeat.

2.

Numbers change in a sequence. (e.g. 101, 102, 103…)

3.
2

Numbers would change after every second time (e.g. 101, 101, 102, 102, 103, 103…)

4.

Thrice the same number would be repeated (e.g. 101, 101, 101, 102, 102, 102, 103, 103,
103…)

5.

The same number would get stamped four times (e.g. 101, 101, 101, 101, 102, 102, 102,
102, 103, 103, 103, 103…)

For sticker gun, three options are available: S.No.

Options

Function

1.

2.

3.

Numbers would change one after the other; in a sequence. (e.g. 101, 102, 103…) One
number would be repeated twice. (e.g. 101, 101, 102, 102, 103, 103…) No change; Repeat.
(e.g. 101, 101, 101, 101…)

10. Numbering must be done at the correct place. Numbering positions for the large parts of
shell is given below: S.No. SHELL

Parts

Position numbering
for Visual

85

1.

Front

Bottom

2.

Back

Across-back, middle.

3.

Lapel

Numbering position

86

4.

Side Panel

Top

5.

Top Sleeve

Crown

6.

In Sleeve

Below the crown

7.

Collar

Centre
8.

Collar Neck Centre Band

87

9.

Small Parts Centre (Flap, Bone, Breast pocket, Pocket facing, )

LINING 1. Front

Bottom

2.

Back

Bottom

3.

Side Panel

Bottom

88

4.

Top Sleeve

Crown

5.

In sleeve

Below the crown

6.

Small Parts

Top

7.
Collar Felt

Middle

11. Check the numbering after completing one bundle to check: i. All the components are
numbered; no numbering jump. ii. Correct numbering is done. iii. Numbering is done at the
correct position.

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Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) - Operator is to keep cut panel on a storage table in
ratio wise1. Numbering Operation: & CAM - Operator is to mark on backside of fabric of
first ply of eachcolour wise manner. Ex: 30 * 32, Black Colour all cut parts i.e. front, back,
fly, bone, pocket-facing piece are together. &  Operator is to observe cut summary and
verify with cut piece for size i.e. Waist * inseam. Note: If cut summary does not match with
cut parts sizes i.e. waist * inseam, check minimarker and cut plan to verify cut-summary
report. Normally mini-marker and cut plan remain same and chance of error lies in cut
summary. Henceforth, emphasis of error detection should be on cut summary. If found
problem, get it rectified.  Number of plies  Colour  Style  Purchase order  Lot
number.  Operator is to observe lay report to know following details regarding lay or lot.
every cut part to avoid face side/backside confusion or starting ply number confusion.

Operator is to observe face side as well as backside of fabric and first ply of every layer.
Operator is to observe cut summary to know following details to do numbering:

Bundle size. 2. Numbering Place Value (a) In case of trouser, Numbering consists of 10
digits Digit 1 2 3 4 5 to 10 Ply serial number  Size  Colour  Bundle number 

Nomenclature First number of waist size Second number of waist size First number of
inseam size Second number of inseam size Serial number

90

 In presentation, it is written below as follows: __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ i.e. (1 To

10,000 Serial No) Waist Inseam Serial Number

For a particular purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.
Irrespective of size and colour number is given as per the purchase order & lay number.

(b) In case of Jacket numbering consists of 8 digits Digit 1 2 3 to 5 6 to 8

Nomenclature Number of front buttons Fixed alphabet ‘S’, that stands for size Jacket size
Serial number of panel

Number should be clear Number should not skipped  Numbering should be done on
backside of panel.  First ply of layer should be observed properly.  Face side and
backside should be checked with swatch card. For a particular colour of purchase order,
number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.As per jacket size and serial
number, digit number varies. 3.Numbering Check Points: & Numbered parts should be
bundle correctly. GLOSSARY 1. Cut Sticker: Cut stickers are generated in the CAD office,
using the software, E- Matters. The input required to generate a cut sticker is: i. Buyer’s
name ii. Order number iii. Style number iv. Sizes v. Quantity for each size vi. Type of lay
(shell, body lining, body fusing, knee lining etc.) These are put and the software generates a
template that can be directly used to print on the stickers. Numbering should vanish after
required time period. at defined position.

91

The cut sticker has information of the buyer, the style number, lay number, size and garment
number. 2. Summary Sheet: A summary sheet has information of the buyer, order number,
total order quantity, lay number, color, size, quantity and numbers of the pieces segregated
size wise. It is a very important document generated in the CAD office using the Morgan
Software. It helps in numbering. Any errors in the summary sheet can lead to wrong
numbering which can affect quality of the garments being produced.

QUALITY CHECKING AND RELAYING Quality checking is an essential process for

checking for visual defects in parts concentrated on weaving defects. 100 per cent checking
is done except small parts like bone, flap,etc.

RELAYING Parts which are cut as bigger blocks in pinning are brought here and matched
against each other to make sure that the plaid matching is achieved. The plaid matching is
essential for standard features of any stripe/ checks garment. As in pinning, there will be
underneath needle which are set at the desired position and the parts can be adjusted as
per the plaid repeat requirement. After the requirement parts are matched, they are tied
together by means of knotting. Then ready patterns are placed over the bulk plies and bound
by means of end clips. Care should be taken here to make sure that the grain line remains
the same while placing the ready patterns. After this, the parts are taken for band knife
cutting on band knife machine. Band knife machine essentially consists of a revolving knife
placed on pulleys run by motor. Theknife generates a vibrating movement which will enable
cutting process. Hand gloves are mandatory while operating this machine.The bigger blocs
are trimmed at ends / edge to bring the parts to the required dimensions. Notches as
required are also made on this machine. FUSING

Fusing process is one of the most important processes in cutting department. Fusing
materials essentially provide strength, stiffness and stability to the garment and adds to the
presentation of the garment. There are various types of fusing depending on the application.
The most three parameter in fusing are:

1. Temperature

92
2. Pressure 3. Fusing time

Different types of fusing have different setting of parameter. The fusing machine must be set
as per the required parameters for particular fabrics and fusing. A standard guideline about
the fusing setting will be given from fabric section. Another important process here is FUSE
line BOND testing. Bond testing is a process of mechanically testing the fuse line pressure
(in kgs) by means of mechanical weight scale. The process is performed at starting of any
new style and the same displayed alongside the machine. Also the fusing machine are
tested for temperature manually by means of temperature thermo strips twice a day to make
sure temperature calibration is intact , since the machine is influenced by outside weather
and climate. Standard fusing guidelines for different parts will be provided for ease of
placements of fusing pieces on the shell fabric.

FUSING TECHNOLOGY IN GARMENT INDUSTRY The most important area of garment

construction where an alternative process has significantly taken over from sewing is in the
attachment of interlinings. When interlinings are sewn in, it can be difficult on parts such as
collars to avoid a wrinkling of the interlining inside the collar and pucker around the edge. On
large parts such as jacket fronts, the attachment of interlinings by sewing is expensive and
requires a skill if a high standards is to be achieved. The alternative process which has been
developed is that of fusing. Fusing technology whereby the interlining is bonded to the outer
fabric by means of a thermoplastic resin. The term fusible interlining is used to describe a
base fabric coated on one side with a thermoplastic adhesive resin which can be bonded to
another fabric by the controlled application of heat and pressure. These materials, generally
called fusible, provide the designer with a number of properties which can enhance the
appearance of finished garments. Following are the fusible parts of different garment:-

93

Figure 2: FUSIBLE PARTS OVER GARMENTS

   ADVANTAGES OF INTERLINING:

Garments with interlining tend to be stronger, because of the added layer of fabric support.
They drape better compared to non-interlined garments. Interlining generally bespeaks a
higher level of quality in a garment, because of the additional manufacturing time involved.
Interlining can also be used to protect fabrics, especially those used in drapes and
consequently often exposed to direct light. Delicate fabrics like silk and velvet can suffer
from sun damage if hung with a liner alone, and most drapers recommend the use of an
interlining for the life of the fabric. in quilting, the layer offers an extra bit of fluffiness, along
with warmth in the winter.

94

MAJOR CHALLENGES IN FUSING TECHNOLOGY: 1. Modern fashion fabrics and

interlinings are more delicate. 2. Fabrics are generally finer and lighter. 3. They are more
sensible to temperature and pressure. 4. They have more tendencies to shrinkage under
temperature. 5. Many fabrics are elastic, some in both directions. 6. Textile finish with
softeners can effect fusing. 7. Modern fusible interlinings are lighter and thinner. 8. There is
more chance of back of fusing.

strike

Interlinings used in Raymond, Gauribidanur: -Raymond Gauribidanur is a jacket, waistcoat &

trouser manufacturing plant established on 24th Oct. 2008. Jacket is one of the heaviest
garments and hence requires interlining like fusing, canvas and felt. FUSING USED IN
RAYMOND, GAURIBIDANUR: Three types of fusing are used in this plant: 1. BODY
FUSING- They are basically a woven fusing, which is fused at front panel of the jacket and
also sometimes at lapel, depending upon buyer requirement. They are generally white or
black in color. 2. PART FUSING-They are basically non-woven fusing, which is fused at
different part of the panels like collar, shoulder, side seam, inseam, arm-hole ,bottom line,
dart, pocket, bone, flap etc. They are generally white or charcoal in color. 3. NR FUSING-
They are so called because of presence of nylon thread in non-woven fusing. They are used
to strengthen the seams and are fused at side seam, in- seam, collar& shoulder .They are
generally white or black in color. 4. WHITE FUSING – This fusing is named after its color. It
is used in few parts of panel which are as buyer requirement.

95

Side-panel and In-sleeve – 1 Operator Note-Small parts includes Collar, Neck band, Welt,
Bone and Flap. Back, Top-Sleeve and Small parts – 1 Operator  Front, Lapel – 1 Operator
 Small Parts – 1 Operator Collecting:  Lapel – 1 Operator  Side-panel and In-sleeve – 1
Operator each  Back and top-sleeve – 3 Operators  Front – 3 Operators FUSING
MACHINES: There are seven fusing machines used for jacket fusing Machine type .No. of
machine Kannegiesser 5 Weishi 1 Reliant Cool stream 1 Men-Power for Fusing:There are
10 operators for feeding the parts and 3 operators for collecting these parts. The distribution
for each part is as follows: Feeding:

96

FLOW CHART

ORDER INFORMATION FROM PRODUCTION FILE MARKER MAKING

FABRIC ISSUE REPORT

ISSUE OF FUSING ROLLS FROM FABRIC SECTION STORAGE OF ROLLS IN CUTTING

SECTION SPREADING

CUTTING

BUNDLING

ISSUE TO FUSING AREA

SEGREGRATION

97

COLLECTION OF SHELL PARTS FROM PANEL CHECKING FUSING STARTS

INCORRECT

CHECK MACHINEPARA METER CORRECT CONTINUE PRODUCTION

PANEL CHECKING

BUNDLING

ISSUE TO SEWING

RESET M/C

RE-CUTTING

98





Style Lot no  Fusing Type e.g. part fusing, knitted fusing, woven fusing etc.  Serial
number Operator is to observe fabric type i.e. solid, checks, and stripes Operator is to also
consider following.  Number of plies  Colour  Style  Purchase order  Lot Number
Operator is to receive lay report from numbering section. Operator is to observe lay report
to know following details:

 Note: Fusing style has to match with the shell style.

Operator is to segregate cut fuse material as per size, colour, right side and left side.
Operator is to set working parameter of fusing machine as per required quality or buyer
setting parameter. In case of a new shell fabric, operator is to do trial fusing and get approval
from the concerned. Normally working parameters are as follows:

   .

Buyer

Temperature
Pressure

Speed

Raymond

130’C

3 Bar

7.5 m/min

Correct working parameter of a fusing material. Operator is to pass material gently on the
conveyor belt of fusing machine. Note: Operator is to use entire machine belt area to feed
the material. Operator is to collect fused material gently without any fold or wrinkle. Operator
is to do fusing panel wise, size wise and color wise. Operator is to maintain machine and
follow daily maintenance schedule. Correct shell and fuse color and shade.  Correct shell
and fuse size.  Correct shell and fuse type. Once working parameters are approved,
operators is to observe following things before starting bulk fusing operation:

99

Operator is to receive lot along with lay report from fusing sectionPANEL INSPECTION
This is essential a quality department process in which cut panel in random is checked for
the dimensional accuracy by placing the top, middle, and bottom ply of any bulk parts on
graded nested patterns. This process is usually performed to make sure that after cutting
process and fusing, the part dimensions are intact. Any defect found here is sent for re-
cutting, where parts are cut manually. FABRIC DEFECTS INSPECTION 1.Inspection
Procedure & Spreading defects. Note: Operator has to check panel on transparent glass
checking table-having light 500-600 Lux. Cutting defects, and  Finishing defects, 
Weaving defects,  Yarn defects,  Notch Note:Technical manager is to approve inspection
pattern. Operator is to do inspection on 2.5 Acceptance Quality Level (AQL) bases. If lot gets
rejected on 2.5 AQL bases, then go for 100 % inspection. . (b) Fabric defect inspection:
Operator is to do 100 % panel inspection i.e. individual panel is to get inspected for following
defects:  Shape of panel  Size  Panel inspection (a) Cut panel pattern
inspection:Operator is to inspect panel against respective pattern for  Operator is to
observe cut summary to know cut quantity-size and color wise  Quantity- lay wise and size
wise  Number of plies  Method of spreading  Serial Number  Style  Lot Number
observe lay report to know following details:

100

 Operator is to again inspect the recut panel, put it into respective bundle and update a
record before issuing to sewing section.  Serial number Note: Re-cutting section is to recut
panel from the respective ply end bit to replace defective panel of a lay, do numbering and if
necessary get it fused and give it back to Panel inspection section.  Lay number  Part
Name or Number  Color  Style name  Purchase Order Operator is to remove
defective panel from a lay and simultaneously, record defects in ‘Check Point Format’.
Followed by that, operator is to give defective panels to recutting section by maintaining
record of following details in internal re-cutting format.

Replacement of defective part is to take place from same roll or same roll end-bits to avoid
any shade variation. 3. Panel Inspection The defect standards to be displayed in
subsection: i.e. acceptable, rejected is clearly marked and displayed separately.  Cut panel
inspection is to be conducted in a separate sub-section in cutting department. 2. Point to be
noted during inspection: & Matching Point: Operator is to inspect & match respective panel
as follows: BUNDLING This is a process in which individual parts are clubbed together in
bunches and made ready for the process of issue to line. The bundling process is usually
done lay wise and a standard numbering sequence generator is provided for bundling and
the operators make sure that they arrange the different parts according to the required lays
and make it ready to issue to lines in material handling trolleys. Here, the arrangement is
made section wise. After bundling, the cut parts are issued to sewing lines by means of
issue slip. RE-CUTTING AND MIS REPORT RE-CUTTING Apart from the regular process,
a service requirement from cutting is re- cutting which is essentially a manual hand cutting
process to cut parts which are either found defective in cutting inspection or brought from
sewing section as damaged parts. Here, a record is kept

101

in which the parts has been cut or at least the shade of the parts is matched before recutting.
A separate area for rejected parts/ panels is designated to ease in identify and for further
transactions.

MIS REPORTS Final cut report (FCR)

Fabric report

Order report Daily report

This report give the size wise cut quantities across each order and indicate short close or
extra quantities of any size. This report is distributed to all the departments to make sure that
they are geared up for all eventualities.

consumption Essentially indicates the amount of fabric consumed, the quantity cut and the
fabric left over in roll and end bit and individual garment consumption. completion A part of
the required is OCR, for which cutting will provide cut quantities, fabric consumed, fabric
returned and cutting rejects. production Daily production report as a part of MIS requirement
is provided as per Proman software.

102

JACKET




Size shape Front panel to chest pocket Back Panel  Front panel – flap pocket  Front to
top sleeve  Right front to left Front  Front- dart cut at same point  Front panel to side
panel  Size, shape and notch Front Panel & Lapel to front panel Lapel to lapel  Size,
shape and notch  Top sleeve to under sleeve Lapel  Size, shape and notch  Back panel
to side panel Sleeve  Back panel to back panel centreline  Back panel to collar notch

Left waistband to left extension Note:Solid fabric inspects size, shape ¬ch.Checks Right
waist to left waistband  Waist band  Back Panel to back panel at seat seam.  Size shape
and notch  Back Panel  Front panel to pocket facing  Front panel to back panel  Size
shape and notch  Front Panel: TROUSER & Strips inspects size, shape, notch &
matching point as mentioned above

103

EMPLOYES DETAILS JACKET

104

105

All the pieces cut from a lay are identical. Spread depth depends on blade length and
adjustable height of the blade guard.  Blade length 6-14 inches.  Most versatile and
commonly used.  Corners and curves can be cut accurately.  Reciprocate up and down.
 Vertical blade. MACHINE DETAIL Straight knife:

STRAIGHT KNIFE

106

Available as both vertical and horizontal blade as per the requirements. Blade width is
10mm.  Knife is in band form so it is called band knife cutter machine.  Block pieces of
fabric required to cut.  Blade is fixed and fabric is moveable.  Blade is narrower than
straight knife. Band knife:

BAND KNIFE

    AUTOMATIC CNC CUTTER

Cutting speed 46 m/min or 1800 inch/min. Cutting height compressed is 11cm. Can accept
files from every major CAD/cam manufacturer. Cutting width 2000mm (78”) and cutting
length 3300mm (130”). Equipped with the optional platform mover (OPM) which allows the
cutter to move between spreading tables, greatly decreasing the time between the cuts.

107



Knife wear Vacuum level  Knife speed  Cut speed Equipped with the conveyorized
cutting surface that automatically seals cut pieces so that vacuum remains uniform. Four
parameters:

AUTOMATIC CNC CUTTER

108

PROCESS FLOW CHART - CUTTING File received from merchandiser

Pattern’s Soft copy

Cut order planning in ‘Morgan’ software acc to size break-up

Calculation of total fabric required

Marker is made in Gerber software

Calculation of average marker consumption

Wastage allowance is added(2%)

Fabric inspection

Fabric amount available is checked in ‘Stage’ Width report received from fabric section

Roll’s allocation is done in ‘PROMAN’ or in MS Excel

Material requisition is sent to fabric section Fabric issue to cutting section Lay report
Counting of no. of rolls Plan sheet

Lay scheduling

Article and material wise segregation

Laying/spreading

Cutting

Numbering Fusing

Issue to sewing lines Bundling

Panel checking

109

To ensure that in stitching all components from same layer are stitched together. It is
important to avoid shade variation in a garment.  Separate garment components are
numbered. Numbering

Fusing Fusing is basically anything which is used between two layers of fabric to give more
body. A fusible interlining is thin layer made from woven, knitted or non-woven material
bonded mechanically or thermally which when fused with fabric panel can give
reinforcement, durability and can also stabilize and makes sewing work easier while sewing.

Fusing machine There are 9 fusing machine used in SSAL-II, of which 7 is used for jacket
components and rest 2 for trouser panels.

FUSING MACHINE FOR JACKET PANELS

110

FUSING MACHINE FOR TROUSER PANELS

Part fusing -Non- woven fusing -White or charcoal in colour -Collar, shoulder, side seam,
inseam, arm-hole, bottom line, dart, pocket, bone, flap etc. Body fusing -Woven fusing
-White and black in colour - front panel and sometimes in lapel of jacket  Three types of
fusing materials are used in SSAL-II: FUSING MATERIAL

111

White fusing -Named after its colour -Used as per the buyers requirement N.R. fusing
-Presence of nylon thread in non-woven fusing -White or black in colour -Side seam, inseam,
collar and shoulder 

PARTS WHICH NEED FUSING:

     JACKET

FRONT- armhole, shoulder, neck, dart. LAPEL- lapel fusing, N R fusing piece. TOP
SLEEVE- sleeve armhole fusing with moon patch, bottom fusing. BACK- shoulder and neck,
back armhole, bottom and vent. SIDE PANEL- armhole, bottom. IN SLEEVE-armhole,
bottom.

BONE RIGHT AND LEFT FLY  WAIST BAND TROUSER

They drape better compared to non-interlined garments Prevents seam opening. 
Garments with fusing tend to be stronger, because of the added layer for fabric support.
SIGNIFICANCE OF FUSING:

112

SEWING DEPARTMENT Sewing department’s function is the crucial and most vital job in a
garment industry. This is the place where actual production takes place. After the fabric is
released from cutting, it is passed on to the sewing department for the sewing. The various
parts are stitched together to form the garments. The sewing section is comprised of: 1.
Trouser Lines 2. Jacket Lines

SEWING DEPARTMENT PLANT LAYOUT

113

JACKET LINEPLANT LAYOUT

114

DEPARTMENTAL CHART

115

SOP

116

EMPLOYES DETAILS

LI NE 1 LI NE 2 LI NE 3 LI NE 4 LI NE 5 LI NE 6 LI NE 7

PRODUCTIO N EXECUTIVE 1 VIMAL

I.E

LINE CHARGE

1 SHARW AN

IN TECHNICIA N MANAGER 1 1 MOKHTAR DAVIS

QUALITY EXECUTIV E 1 RATIKANTH DAS

QUALITY IN CHARGE 1 ANIL JAMES

VIMAL
LACHES RAVI WARAN

DAVIS

RATIKANTH DAS

RANJAN

RAKESH

PRASH ANT

AJAY

DAVIS

RATIKANTH DAS

VEDPRAKAS H

SANDEEP

PRASH ANT

BABU

DAVIS

RATIKANTH DAS

ANJI

TUSHAR

SHARW AN

GOPAL KRISHNA

DAVIS

RATIKANTH DAS

PADAM

ANKIT

LACHES SUNIL KUMAR WARAN

DAVIS

RATIKANTH DAS

RAMAMJI

NULL

NULL

SUGAM PAL DAVIS AND RAVINDAR

RATIKANTH DAS

SANTOSH

OVERVIEW OF JACKET SECTION

MACHINE USED S.NO.

MACHINE TYPE

NO. OF MACHINE

SNLS

273

ZIG ZAG

35

TOPPER

127

AUTO ZIG

7
5

AUTO DART

117

BARTACK

28

BASTING

28

BUTTONHOLE SEW

14

FIT

84

10

AUTOWELT

21

11

SNLS DROP FEED

14

12

BLIND HEM
14

13

SAMHOLE

14

FIT WITH BUCK

15

BUTTON SEW

16

SNLS DIFFERENTIAL FEED BUTTON HOLE

14

TOTAL

689

TOTAL NO. OF OPERATOR

820

17

14

Half Lining Full Lining  Double vent (one on each side)  Single Centre Vent  No vent 
Half Canvas The different types of jackets made at Raymond Ltd are:

118

Various fabrics used in jacket are: 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6) 7)

Shell fabric Lining fabric Knitted fusing Parts Woven fusing Woven Reinforcement Canvas
Felt
 Small Parts Section- canvas, facing flapsJACKET SECTION There are six jacket lines at
Raymond, the brief description of their capacity and workers is as follows: Jacket section is
composed of: & Front Sectifacing Collar         Assembly Section The sewing SAM
for a basic Jacket is approx. 65-70 min. The Jacket line follows the UPS system of
production. The material moves on pneumatically controlled overhead hangers. The different
types of jackets made at Silver Spark Apparel Ltd Unit–II are:  Sleeve Section  Lining
Section on

Floating Canvas or Engineered Jacket Half Canvas Full Canvas No vent Single Centre Vent
Double vent (one on each side) Full Lining Half Lining

Parts Woven fusing Knitted fusing  Small Parts  Lining fabric  Shell fabric VARIOUS
FABRICS USED IN JACKET:

119

Woven Reinforcement

LINING FABRIC

Trims & Accessories

SHELL FABRIC PARTS NAME

CUT PARTS

Front

Back

Side panel

Front Facing

Top sleeve

2
Under sleeve

Breast pocket

Breast pocket facing

SMALL PARTS PARTS NAME

CUT PARTS

Chest felt

Chest canvas

Small Chest canvas

Patti

Top collar

Collar band

Big Chest canvas Sleeve head felt

Front pocket bone

2
Sleeve head canvas

Front pocket flap

Sleeve head canvas

TOTAL

20

Sleeve head canvas

Sleeve head canvas

2 20

TOTAL

120

PARTS NAME

CUT PARTS

Back

Front

Side body

Top sleeve
2

Under sleeve

Cigarette pocket lining

Welt pocket

Front arm tape

Flap lining

Triangle flap

Cigarette pocket bone

Cigarette pocket face

In pocket facing

In pocket bone

Pocket face

Sweat shield
4

TOTAL

29

SMALL PARTS LINING PARTS FRONT PARTS KNITTED FUSING PARTS FUSING
REINFORCEMENT TOTAL PARTS (JKT)

20 29 20 5 14 3 88

121

TRIMS & ACCESSORIES

1) Shoulder pad 2) Thread 3) Satin tape 4) Size label 5) Neck label 6) Content/Care label 7)
Sleeve label 8) Main label or brand label 9) Bridle tape Felling tape 10) Besom tape 11)
Armhole tape 12) Double sided fusing with paper 13) Double sided fusing without paper 14)
Poly bag 15) Hanger

JACKET LINE-1

 Production /day:- 2500-3000(approx..) No of operators: 110 Total no of machines: 134

Buyers:

JC Penny Total No. Of Operators=119

122



Machine Operators= 109; Pairing Operator=2; Inspectors=6; Feeding Helper=2

  Total No. of Machines=114

Manual(Marking Tables)= 8; Automatic=101; Inspection Tables=3; Inspection Hangers=2

Production Executive: Mr. Vimal Kumar I.E: Supervisor –

Mr. Sharwan Kumar and Prashant Kumar Sunil Sharma (front) Ajay Dabral (assembly II)

Team leader- Asha H.R (Front I) Anitha N (Front II) Gracy (Lining) Roopa H.M (Sleeve)
Netravati (Collar)

123

PROCESS FLOW
124

125

126

TROUSER LINE ORGANIZATION CHART

127

DEPARTMENT LAYOUT S.NO.

MACHINE TYPE

NUMBERS OF MACHINES

NO. OF MACHINE

128 1

3-THREAD O/L

24

AUTO DART

AUTO FACING

AUTO ZIG

AUTO SERGING

6
6

AUTO WELT

BACK POCKET PRESSING

BLIND HEM

18

9 10

BUCK VACCUM TABLE BUTTON OLE

6 12

11

BUTTON SEW

12

12

DNCS

13

FIT

12

14

FUSING MACINE

18
15

HOOK AND BAR ATTACH

16 17

PINKING MACHINE PINTACK

61

18

SADDLE STICH

12

19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 89

SIDE SEAM PRESS SNCS SNLS SNLS DIFFERENTIAL FEED SNLS DROP FEED SNLS
EDGE CUTTER SNLS NEEDLE FEED BARTACK WRAPING MACHINE YKK ZIP DART
PRESS TOTAL MACHINETOTAL WORKER

6 12 12 6 48 12 24 30 6 12 6 343 330

EMPLOYS DETAILS

129

LIN E1 LIN E2 LIN E3 LIN E4 LIN E5 LIN E6

PRODUCTION EXECUTIVE

I.E

LINE IN TECHNICAL CHARGE MANAGER

QUALITY EXECUTIVE

QC IN CHARGE MAINTEN ANCE

1 DHERAJ/SUMI T DHERAJ/SUMI T DHERAJ/SUMI T DHERAJ/SUMI T DHERAJ/SUMI T

DHERAJ/SUMI T

1 JUBAI
1 NULL

NARENDAR NARENDAR

1 DEV

1 RAMU

NULL

NARENDAR

DEV

RAMU

1 KRISHAN APA ANAND

JUBAI RAM

NULL

NARENDAR

DEV

RAMU

ASWATH

RAM

NULL

NARENDAR

DEV

RAMU

RAM

HARI BABU HARI BABU

NARENDAR

DEV
RAMU

BABU KHAN VASANTH

NARENDAR

DEV

RAMU

MUTHU

JUBAI

The operation of Trousers line is categorized into three sections; • Preparatory section •
Front and back line • Assembly line. In the preparatory section the basic parts of the garment
is matched and graded for the production. Then it is send to the front and back end line
where the front side and the backside of a trouser are made and finally to the assembly line
for the final assembling of the parts. The material handling and movement in the preparatory
and front & back sections is on waterfall trolleys and the assembly lines are based on UPS
system. The material flow is on manually controlled overhead trolleys. There are six trouser
line, the brief description of their capacity and worker is as follows:

Line number Line No.

Installed Capacity

Average Daily Prod.

clients Client

130

500 Line 1 Line 1

410 500 600

Line 2

450 350

Levis Export

Line 2 Line 3

500 500

400 450
Line 3 Line 4

500 500

350 390

Line 5 Line 4

500 500

400 200

Line 6

500

400

RAL

   The different types of trousers made are:

Trouser with Knee Lining Double pleated Single pleated Flat front

Operations of a standard trouser calculated:

TIME

PER TAKT TIME

OPERATIONS

PIECE(IN SEC.)

AUTO SERGING FRONT RISE O/L AUTO DART PRESSING AD FUSING M/C AUTO
WELT FRONT POCKET ATTACH FRONT POCKET LOCKING PRESSING OF FRONT
POCKET FLY ATTACH TO FRONT PRESSING OF WELT POCKET

44 22 23 35 53 30 28 32 42 30

48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48

NO.OF OPERATORS Park1Avenue 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

131

EDGE STITCH ON WELT POCKET 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48

1

BUTTON HOLING POCKET FLAP ATTACHMENT LOCK TOP WELT BACK RISE BINDING
B/T ON WELT POCKET POCKET BAG BINDING POCKET BAG CLOSING B/A ON WELT
POCKET FACING O/L SIDE SEAM JOIN

30 18 40 34 34 32 32 40 32 30 40

INSEAM JOIN

30

48

48

48

39 34

48 48

21

24 36 PAD 35

48 48 48

111

48

52

111111112

DUMMY STITCH ON BACK POCKET BAG SEAM BURSTING MARKING

BOTTOM SERGE BOTTOM HEM LEATHER ATTACHMENT TOTAL

32MINUTES

132
LOOP ATTACHMENT WB LINING ATTACH WB ATTACH TO TROUSER BODY WB EXTN
FINISHING R.FLY LINING ATTACH RIGHT AND LEFT FLY PRESS J STITCH FRONT
RISE ATTACH R.FLY ES SLIDER ATTACHMENT BACK RISE LABEL ATTACH WASH
CARE AND SIZE PRESS LABEL BACK RISE PRESS WB BUTTON HOLING BUTTON
ATTACH POCKET BAG TACKING FRONT POCKET AND FLY LOOP B/T DOWN B/T W/B
DITCH STITCH LOOP FINISH B/T CROTCH TAIL FINISH



32 34

48 48

11

57

48

38 54 20 33 35 30 30 50 46 37 30 44 23 5 28 37 40 41 42 30

48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48 48

11111111111111111

Line efficiency:41% Line abseentism:6-8% DHU:5-7% Critical operations: waistband attach,

front & back rise, loop finishing, bar tack, back pocket closing, automatic welting Bottleneck
operations: welt pocket Allowances: contingency-2%, PFD-10% Totaloperators:52

133

Machine details

FRONT & BACK MACHINE TYPE Front & back panel serging (Rise, Inseam & outseam)
Trolley Loading Auto Serging Table Fuse front panel at pkt seam FIT Front pocket attach &
cut notch Press Front pocket seam Top stitch front pocket & top locks Left & right fly attach
Facing Side O/L Back darts Press Back darts

SNLS Drop feed FIT SNLS Needle feed SNLS Drop feed 3 T O/L Auto dart Topper Auto
pocket welting

Pocket welting Press welt pockets Edge stitch on welt facing Button hole back pocket Lock
top welt with pocket bag Restitch back pocket Bartack back pocket Button sew to back
pocket Front / Back pairing / w/b pairing Sideseam & inseam join Press open Side & inseam
ASSEMBLY Hanger loading & marking Stay stitch on body Loops att
Topper SNLS Drop feed Button Hole SNLS Needle feed SNLS Needle feed Bartack Button
Sew Table SNCS Seam bursting

Waistband Waistband att extn lock & turn Attach Lining to right fly & turn Press w/b extn, left
& right fly Hook & Bar attach Close w/b extn & J stitch Join Front rise Edge stitch on right fly

SNLS Edge cutter SNLS Edge cutter FIT Hook & Bar SNLS Needle feed SNLS Drop feed
SNLS Drop feed

Slider & stopper att Back rise

YKK TNCS

Table SNLS Edge cutter SNLS Edge cutter SNLS Differential feed

134

Press back rise Press Waistband Sew button hole on waistband Sew buttons on waistband

Topper Topper Button Hole Button Sew

Bartack front pocket & fly

Bartack

Down bartack loops & /attach loopswaistband Curtain fell waistband Ditch centre stitch finish

Bartack

Finish loops Crotch attach & finish Spot tack waistband Bottom O/L

Blind stitch - w/b Bartack SNLS Needle feed Spot tack 3 T O/L Blind stitch -Bottom

Hem bottom SECTION PREPARATORY Front & back pocket facing attach Hem & attach
coin pocket Overlock pocket bag Turn & Press pocket bag Top stitch front pkt / W/b extn att
Fuse W/b, fly & welt pcs Attach W/b lining & top stitch Blind stitch loops ready Fly O/L / Bind
left fly Zipper att to left fly Cut & gape zip Right fly zipper att / Crotch binding

Auto facing SNLS Needle feed 5 T O/L FIT SNLS Needle feed / Auto jig Fusing m/c SNLS
Drop feed Blind stitch–loop making 3T O/L M/c /SNLS Drop feed Auto zipper YKK SNLS
Drop feed

135

SEWING NEEDLES USED FOR DIFFERENT OPERATIONS

S. NO
MACHINE/OPEARATION

NEEDLE

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

SNLS (Needle Bar) Overclock DNLS Pocket Welting Sleeve welting Bast (flat width) Button
Attach Button Hole Flat Lock Spot Tacking Bottom Hemming

12 13 14

Saddle stitch Button Attach Bar tag

DP*5, DB*1 DC*1 DP*5, DP*17 DP*35, DP*85 DP*85 DP*35/ DP*85 MT*190 (front jacket)
DO*558 TU*5 TU*7 1717 SRUE 1169E/4669E (Duerkopp Adler) LW*1 (Juki, Brother) 1828E
(Strobel) DP*5, DP*12, CP*1 DP*17 DP*5

136

FINISHING DEPARTMENT FINISHING

Finishing is the last step of the garment production. Garments are washed, pressed and
packed into poly bags.

137

The objectives of finishing are: • Improve the appearance of the garments • To give the
proper shape to the different parts of the garment which is most important in case of jackets.
• Improve the drape by pressing • Improve the durability of the garments • Packing for
dispatch

To remove water mark, patch mark, pen mark surgical spirit is used. To remove white
pencil mark per chlro ethylene is used.  Boiler water/ per chloro ethylene/ surgical spirit. 2.
Functions:  Air gun/chemical gun JACKET FINISHING: Washing of garments: 1. Tools
used:

138

DEPARTMENT LAYOUT

139

ORGANIZATION CHART

140

SOP
141

EMPLOYES DETAILS

Lin e1 Lin e2 Lin e3 Lin e4 Lin e5 Lin e6 Lin e7

TECHNICIAN /PRESSING

FINISHING EXECUTIVE

FINISHING I.E

FINISHING IN CHARGE

SUPERVISOR

TEAM LEADER

1 RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV
RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV RAM NIWAS YADAV

1 DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK

KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR DEEPAK KUMAR

2 NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL

DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT NIKHIL DEVDUTT

1 MUGAM

1 JAIMAA

NIKHIL

2 MANISH MUGAM NULL

DEVDUTT

RAM AVATAR

DEVDUTT

NULL

MUGAM MUGAM

MANISH MUGAM NATHULAL

DEVDUTT

NULL

         Pressing:

Sleeve press Back press Front press Elbow press Shoulder press Collar press
Nipping(under armhole press) Blocking(outer armhole press) Lining press Lapel press

     Packing:

Brand tag. Size ring. Joker tag. Hanger sticker. Polybag Size slider

BASANT A RENUK AMA ASHWA NI AMBIK A NAGMA NI NULL

142

PROCESS FLOW

WASHING

SLEEVE PRESSING

ELBOW PRESSING

FRONT PRESSING

LINING PRESSING

COLLAR PRESSING

SHOULDER PRESSING

BACK PRESSING

NIPPING

BLOCKING

PACKAGING

TOUCH UP

INSPECTION

BUTTON ATTACH

LAPEL PRESS
143

TROUSER FINISHING: The trouser finishing department is very small as compare to jacket
finishing. It includes following sub-processes.

Polybag Size tag.  Brand tag.  Uses spirit or perchloro ethylene for spot cleaning
purpose. 2. Legger press 3. Topper press 4. Packing 1. Spot cleaning

DEPARTMENT LAYOUT

144

ORGANIZATION CHART

145

EMPLOYES DETAILS

Lin e1 Lin e2 Lin e3 Lin e4 Lin e5 Lin e6

TECHNICIAN/P RESSING

FINISHING EXECUTIVE

FINISHIN G I.E

FINISHING IN SUPERVI CHARGE SOR

TEAM LEADER

1 RAM NIWAS

1 SUNIL KOLA

0 NULL

0 NULL

1 ARUNA

RAM NIWAS

SUNIL KOLA

NULL

NULL
ARUNA

RAM NIWAS

SUNIL KOLA

NULL

NULL

RAM NIWAS

SUNIL KOLA

NULL

NULL

RAM NIWAS

SUNIL KOLA

NULL

NULL

NETHRA WATI NETHRA WATI ANAPPA

1 NAGRATN A NAGMAN I NARSIM MURTI LAKSHMI

RAM NIWAS

SUNIL KOLA

NULL

NULL

ANAPPA

PROCESS FLOW

BUTTON WRAPPING

LEGGER PRESS

TOPPER
PACKING

GARMENT ON HANGER

BOX PACKING

GAYTERI YASODHA

146

MACHINE DETAILS FOR JACKET 1. Spotting Machine: This machine is used to remove the
chalk marks or any other type of marks in the jacket. This is not exactly a machine but a
spray gun containing stain removing agent. 2. Sleeve Pressing Machine: This machine is
used to press the sleeves of the jackets. The machine has itself got an extended part like the
hands. The sleeve is worn to it and automatically pressed. Before it gets automatically
pressed the operator uses the hand iron to 3. Back Pressing. This machine is used to press
the back of the jacket. This is also a type of buck press and in this the jacket is kept between
the two bucks of shape like the human back. It is a product from Macpi

4. Front Pressing. The front pressing is similar to back pressing but here the shape of the
buck is like the front of the human body.

5. Buck Flap Turning & Pressing Machine: In this the flaps of the jackets are turned and
pressed. This machine is specialized for this purpose is one of the most expensive and
unique machines.

6. Buck Shoulder Pad Pressing This is a very unique and special machine in this machine
there are two independent sections right shoulder and left shoulder. Each section composed
by three shapes: one lower shape with vacuum and two steaming upper shapes. The upper
shapes work in a sequential way with the lower ones. Double pressing on the upper side of
the shoulder avoids leaving impressions on the fabric for excellent results.

7. Collar Pressing: The collar pressing machine is also a kind of buck pressing machine. In
this a collar shaped buck is attached to the machine body and the collar is placed between
the bucks. This machine gives a perfectly finished collar.

8. Armhole Nipping: This machine presses the cap height of the garment.

147

9. Front Button Attach The job of attaching the front button is done in the finishing area. The
make of the machine is LOIVA ST-10.

10.Pocket Button Attach the pocket button attaching machine is same as the general button
attaching machine. The make of the machine is PFAFF3307

11.Touch Up Press this is a type of iron press. It does not apply much pressure to the
garment. It is used to remove the little leftover crease or fold. It basically gives the final look
of the garment.

12.Lapel Press: This is used to press the lapel of the jacket. In this machine there are
provisions for adjustments as per the lapel length. 13.Fit Shaped Ironing Table: this is gives
the jacket its final touch. This is a manual machine. The operator presses one side and then
with the help of the turning handle turns the machine and presses the other jacket in the
other side. In this machine two jackets can be pressed at a time.

14.Automatic Jacket Finisher.: this is the automatic version of the fit shaped iron table. Here
the operator does not have to manual turn the machine hence saves on to time factor. The
pressure and temperature are also automatically set in it.

148

JACKET FINISHING PROCESS FLOW

Spot washing

Front & Back Pressing Shoulder Pressing

Shoulder Pressing

Sleeve Blocking

Collar Pressing

Lining Pressing

Elbow Pressing

Lapel Pressing

Button attach

Wrapping & knotting

Auditing

Inspection

Warehouse

149

             Packaging trims used in jacket finishing by the finishing

departmentFor domestic orders
Barcode String Additional dangler Extra button (2 buttons, one of 24 L and one for 32L).
Hanger. Sleeve label. Additional sleeve label. For export ordersHang tag. Joker tag. Hanger.
Poly bag. Size ring. Sleeve label. Extra button (2 buttons, one of 24L and one of 32L).

150

TROUSER FINISHING DETAILS OF THE MACHINES 1. Vacuum table: these are the
pressing tables where there is a system of generating vacuum while ironing. The iron used is
the general hand press iron. The model number of these tables is WEISHI YTP-W20. There
are 12 vacuum tables 4 in each line. 2. Up steam table: In this kind of tables there is the
technique of providing steam through the small openings of the table. This make the steam
pass through the garment making the garment look neater. The make of this machine set is
WEISHI YTP-W28B. There are 12 up stream table 4 in each row. 3. Form finisher: The form
presser is a type of machine in which a body form is attached to the machine the trouser is
worn to the body form and then pressed. 4. Legger machine: This machine is used for giving
crease in the required areas of the trousers.This machine has a leg shape extended part
which is put inside the trouser like a leg. After this the hand press is used to make the
crease. 5. Stain removing gun: during the sewing process most of the times there is
probability of garments to catch stains. It is important to remove these stains. Benzene
alcohol is used as stain removing agent. There is a container containing this agent, this is
then attested to a pipe, the other end of this pipe has a spray gun. The area containing the
stain is exposed to this gun. This agent acts on to the stains to eradicate it. The operator
continues this process until the stain is removed from the garment. 6. Topper machine: the
trouser.

the topper machine is used to remove the pleat or crease folds from

7. Buck flap turning & pressing this machine is used for pressing and turning the flaps of the
garment. In a trouser mostly flaps are used with welt pockets. 8. Buck bottom press: In this
machine the bottoms of the trousers were finished. To bring the drape and the look of any
trouser the bottom hem should be finished properly. In this machine there are bucks for
giving shape to the trouser. 9. Dusting machine: the dusting machine is used to remove the
loose threads from the garment. These loose threads are due to the result of sewing.

151

TROUSER FINISHING PROCESS FLOW

Thread Trimming

Thread sucking / Dusting

Legger

Topper

Touch Up
Spotting

Quality check

Packing

152

       Packaging trims used in trouser finishingFor domestic orders

Bar code Hang tag Poly bag U-clip Poly bag sticker Carton Carton sticker Divider

        For export orders

Waist band tag Hanger Hanger string Size ring Poly cover Poly bag sticker Carton Carton
sticker Divider

153

WAREHOUSE

A ware house is a commercial building for storage of goods . Ware house are used by
manufacturers , importers , exporters , wholesalers , transport business , customs etc . The
main purpose of warehouses was the packing, checking, labelling and packing of goods for
exports. Raymond Ltd. Suit Plant has an international standard warehouse where more than
16800 garments can be contained at a time. Warehouse is the place where jackets and
trousers are paired (for suit orders) and stored after finishing. DEPARTMENT LAYOUT

154

SOP

155

TOTAL CAPACITY OF WAREHOUSE TOTAL NO OF WORKERS

= 20

TOTAL CAPACITY OF WAREHOUSE :

TROUSER

CAPACITY

NO OF LINES WITH 8 SECTIONS AND 4 ROWS ( 2)

9600
NO OF LINES WITH 6 SECTION AND 4 ROWS (2)

7200

TOTAL

16800

JACKET

CAPACITY

NO OF LINES WITH 16 SECTIONS AND 4 ROWS (10)

38400

NO OF LINES WITH 8 SECTIONS AND 4 ROWS (4)

13440

NO OF LINES WITH 12 SECTIONS AND 4 ROWS (2)

5760

TOTAL

57600

MAX NO OF JACKET IN EACH SECTION = 60 MAX NO OF TROUSER IN EACH

SECTION = 150

156

     CHECKLIST FOR PACKAGING

SLEEVE LABLE JOKER TAG HANG TAG HANGER SIZE RING POLY BAG STICKERS

CHECKLIST OF DOCUMENTS (SHIPMENT) •

CHECKLISTS FOR CONTAINER LOADING

PACKING LIST

CONTAINER LOADING CLIP

•

CONTAINER PHOTOS

OCR ( ORDER COMPLITION REPORT )

CT-PAT –PHOTOCOPY(CUSTOMS TRADE PARTNERSHIP AGAINST TERROSIM)

METAL DETECTION SOP

157

PROCESS FLOW Scan the incoming gmts

Issue of location plan

Store as per location plan/highlight qty and PO on board

Issuing order note from merchandiser to W/H in charge

W/H incharge to prepare pkg list in excel

Issuing it for quality and ware house

Quality audit

Container inspection and taking the pictures of empty container

Manual counting of gmts by security personnel

Loading of gmts into the container

Taking image of loaded container and sealing

Dispatch

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INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING Industrial engineering department is the brain of any industry

and garment industry is no other exception. The operation of this department starts from the
receipt of the order from the buyer. Once the customers place the order the merchandise
department forwards the order to the industrial engineering department for the processing.
As the order is procured the sample garment is first handed over to the IED to calculate the
thread consumption and trim consumption. As the orders are confirmed a copy of purchase
order is sent to the IED and IED prepares an operation bulletin. Based on the operation
bulletin the IED works out the SAM values and plans the line on 75% efficiency. Depending
on the SAM values the IED allot number of operators to each operation. The IED then
sends the requirement of operators, machines and folders to the PPC department that at
75% efficiency to produce 1000 pieces per day we require these many operators and
machines. After the operation bulletin sheets are ready the IED generates a list of machines,
folders and guides required and sends it to the maintenance department. Then they prepare
the line layout in such a manner that the flow of materials in the line is unidirectional.
Besides this the IED performs the important task of maintaining the skill inventory which is
updated every month. IED also keeps a track on the hourly production and maintains the
daily WIP report and daily production report which is sent to the PPC department. Apart from
this the IED also takes care of the work methods that are being used on the floor. Besides
this the IED also plans and balance the line on a daily basis keeping the absenteeism and
other factors in consideration. The different functions of the IED are as follows:

The IED department helps the planning department to know the time required for the
production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they
also help in knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department
takes a decision if they have to proceed with the item or no. The IED calculates the SAM
value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the given style for the initial costing and
also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by the style and gives all these
details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose because the entire costing
criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the merchants suggestions
regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any of the
steps and the method of doing it. The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data
prepare the style bulletin which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to
be done for the garment and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of
stitches that

159

has to be carried out at different places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and
approval. Types of thread (which is the TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories
and its location different kinds of labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under
which the finished garment has to be checked, the times at which the inspection has to be
carried out will also be mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech
Pack but contains more technical data than that.
This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is
required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for
a shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely
completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator
based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time
and also maintain the quality of their work. After setting the targets for a batch and also for
each operator then they will calculate the efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the
daily output of the batch as well as the single operator and then they come up with the
monthly output by the particular batch. This department maintains a file which is the DPR
(Daily Production Report), in this report they update the batch number, style/item number,
actual output, committed output, SAM value of the garment (both actual and that particular
days SAM value), total production till date, average efficiency of the batch till date, peak
efficiency achieved, if the company was working that day or not, if there was a delay of
production then the reason behind it, information about the batch setting prior to the mass
production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR

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PROCESS FLOW OF WORKING OF THE IE DEPARTMENT Calculate SAM of garment

freshly ordered to calculate different consumptions Work measurement of a new confirmed
order

To advice production department on garment SAM and line layout Day to day activity To
calculate line efficiency To calculate operators efficiency Grade change of operators Time
and method study Line balancing Check for work aid and compliances Preparation of
incentive scheme

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QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT Quality Assurance department has its presence in

every stages of the production. The Quality Assurance Department’s function starts with
receipt of the fabric that is, once the fabric and trims reaches the stores the quality of the
fabric and trims are checked. The operation continues throughout the cutting and sewing
processes. After each operation the quality checks are done and in the finishing department
a detailed quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of any defects, finally
approve the trousers and jackets for packing. The price of any garment is determined by its
quality. Quality clothing last longer and inferior quality can break down fast in comparison to
normal wear and tear. The Quality department is divided into Jacket and Trouser Section.

ORGANIZATION CART

BRIJ KISHORE SHARMA SENIOR MANAGER QUALITY ASSUARNACE

FABRIC & TRIMS STORES DUSHMANTH

CUTTING MUBHARAK

TROUSER SEWING DEBSOPAN NAYAK

JACKET SEWING RATHIKANTH DAS

TROUSER FINISHING RAM

JACKET FINISHING NIKHIL/DEODUTT

162

Section wise checking is done keeping in mind various quality check points. Random
Measurement done at three points: • Front and Back Section • End Line • After finishing
auditor checking is done (At warehouse level, internal audit) Panels Quality Check after
cutting For Jackets the Quality Check points are as follows:

FRONT&BACK

163

LININIG HOW TO MEASURE FRONT OF JACKET

HOW TO MEASURE BACK OF JACKET

164

HOW T MEASURE COLLAR AND LAPEL

165

ASSEMBLY SECTION-1 CHECKPOINT

ASSEMBLY SECTION -2 CHECKPOINT

166

For Trousers the following are the Quality Check points: Panels Quality Check after cutting
Inline Checking Random Measurement is done at • Inline • End Line After finishing auditor
checking is done (At warehouse level internal audit is done)

  Objectives of Quality Department

The objective of quality department is impart quality in the product To ensure that the
product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers. To restrict the defects entering into
the final product

To clear the product for packing and shipment To recheck the altered pieces for any
defects possible  To send back the pieces for alteration  To check the products for any
defects Sub objectives:
167

a. QC IN STORES Raw Material Inspection

Quality in store

Checking of product against approved fabric, fabric trims and trims

Checking fabric for 8 parameters and generation of 8 parameter report

Report sent to CAD department

Quality in cutting

168

Quality in sewing

Quality in finishing

169

QUALITY PARAMETERS TO BE FOLLOWED AT FINAL CHECKING

Jacket Front 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

No wrinkle and leaping at the top collar Sharpness at the gorge Canvas settlement to be
checked and looseness is to be avoided Flower hole is to be neatly stitched Breast pocket
should be neat and clean giving a very good look Darts are to be stitched neatly Proper
fitting of sleeves required avoiding the twisting. The sleeves should cover two third of the
welt pockets 8. The sleeve fall is of great importance. It should be checked with clarity 9. The
welt pocket flaps should match with the body to give a descent look 10. The welt pockets
should be checked for any defect at the bartak position 11. The pockets are to be checked
for any puckering 12. The bottom hem should be neat and pucker free 13. Front cut should
be loose and well-shaped 14. The lining fullness and hand stitch quality should be checked
at the cuff 15. Buttons should be properly placed without damage 16. Button hole placement
should be perfect with neat stitch 17. Lapel balance and notch tip balance as well symmetry
is a must 18. The lapel break line should be neat with proper fullness 19. Over lapping is
required at the back seat to prevent the centre back lining seam from any kind of view 20.
Armhole at seam should be neat and clean, and checked for any dimples

170

Jacket back: 1. Collar at the back should be checked for balance, matching and setting 2.
The shoulder should be checked for puckering and looseness 3. There should not be any
wrinkle at the under arm 4. Sleeve elbow stitch and in seam are to be checked for proper
fullness 5. Button stitch and placement is to be checked 6. Balance and fullness is to be
checked in the vent(s). 7. Good shape and silhouette is required at the hip area in the back
8. Bottom hem line should be beautiful and pucker less 9. Back side seam should be
checked for puckering 10. The centre back line is to be checked for puckering Jacket inside:
1. Neck band should be checked for fullness 2. Sleeve attach tacking should be neat 3.
Sleeve back tacking should be neat 4. Sleeve back blind stitch should be neat and clean 5.
The inside pockets should be checked for proper bartack and welt width 6. Facing and lining
join should be proper and pucker free 7. Front edge should be neat and clean 8. Facing
should be properly placed 9. Bottom hem should be perfect without any puckering. Quality
issues in Trouser: Operations

Quality Issues

Serging Front

Follow the required fullness and lining shouldn’t be visible in front Check the panel shape
Serging open Dart length and dart depth Dart should not be bend Check pleat evenness
Check dart shape fusing length and width dart loose stitch & Puckering panel, pocketing &
Bone serial no. should be same Check welt pocket up & down & Dart center out

Serging Back Dart making

Dart Pressing

Auto welting

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Welt pressing

Check dart center out Welt pocket edge damage Check bone dividing and shade Back rise
binding Check binding width Puckering at back rise Front pocket attaching Serial no of front
pocket and panel should be same Check front pocket open measurement & Side margin
Front pocket pressing Check front pocket attaching margin Check front pocket shape Front
pocket top stitch (kinari) Front pocket mouth roping Check front pocket locking tight &
Looseness Check loose and Broken stitches Left & right fly attach Fly and panel serial no
should be same Fly attaching Margin should be even Welt pocket facing edge stitch
Puckering (kinari) Loose stitches Broken stitch Back pocket buttonhole Buttonhole cross
Check dart center out Back pocket top welt locking Back pocket corner smiling Check
Pocket edge dent Back pocket bartack Loose fabric need to be proper Pocket corner shape
should be proper Check pocket corner edge damage Back pocket button attach Top &
bottom bone should be even Check pocket smiling Check back pocket keyhole and button
should be straight to the dart Back pocket pointed Check pocket pointed margin uneven
Check back pocketing weaving Back pocket label attach Size in panel and Label should
same facing looseness & Puckering Top dummy stitch Pocket looseness should be even on
both side Side seam Puckering should not be there maintain pocket gaping, follow notch In
seam Puckering should not be there & follow notch Waist band marking Check back pocket
welting up & down Front pocket attach up & down Marking margin edges should be even
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Front pocket bag side locking

Locking stitch should not be too tight or loose Check pocketing raw edge Bottom pocketing
piece should not be visible on top side

Front pocket back booking

Check the side seam top bend & tight Check the pocketing looseness at side seam booking
area Loops should be center to the notch Loops should be symmetric between both sides
Lining drop uneven Lining fullness should be even Check the back pocket up & down Waist
band margin should be even No puckering Panel out Uneven shape and shape out Fly
should be straight Uneven cutting or lining width Check the w/b lining shade Left fly bend
Left fly should not visible at outside Right fly shape & it should not visible at outside Hook
should be straight to the zipper Width uneven or puckering or bend at end W/b lining tight at
inside Bend and tight Margin uneven Front & Back Inseam line should be match Right fly
lining should not visible at outside inside fly lining should be even Check the Zipper up &
down Fly should be straight Hook & Bar up & down Margin uneven or w/b up/down or V-
shape of w/b Waistband & Back rise-Stripes & Checks should be match Placement wrong or
stitch extended to fabric which cause stitch visible on fabric Wrong size label attach Slant
size label attached Uneven drop Side pocket gapping should be even

Loop attach Waist band lining attach Waistband attach

Left extension closing Right fly lining attach Left & right fly pressing

Hook and bar J-stitch Front rise

Right fly top stitch Zip slider

Back rise stitching Label attach Size label attach W/B pressing Front pocket and fly bartack

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Down bartack

Loop slant Waistband to Bartack margin should be even inside Lining should not be Fold
Waistband hem curtain felling Lining should not be looseness & tight Waistband drop
uneven Waistband hem body attach Waistband extension keyhole Key hole shouldn’t be
slant Waistband extension button Check button shade & Placement attach Button marking
should match with the Keyhole Slider up & Down Loop finishing bartack Loop slant Bartack
placement should be parallel to Waistband top Pintack Body Should not attach with pintack
stitch Check the pintack placements Crotch tacking Crotch should not be too loose or tight
Bottom hem overlock Overlock seam should be straight Panel up & Down in Bottom Bottom
hem Bottom hem pinching, puckering, broken and skip stitches Side seam and in seam line
should be match Hem stitch should be in center of overlock stitch Bottom cuff tacking Bottom
cuff width should be even Button warps Loose stitch or not done properly
174

MAINTENANCE

At Silver spark apparel limited UNIT II; we have the Maintenance Department, which
includes four major sections of the industry. The department is responsible for all the
maintenance activities in the organization. This department does all sorts of maintenanceIt
takes care of the Boilers, Utility Section, the Conveyer Belt system and the Pressing section.
This department is responsible for the following:

The R&D, IED and maintenance department work together for deciding the machinery, type
of pressure foot and attachments that will be used for new order in the line. Maintain
machines throughout by carrying out Preventive Maintenance and scheduled maintenance.
Reducing of machine down time to meet timely shipment Maintenance of all the machines
and machine parts. Buying of new needles, machine parts, attachments, pressure foot.
Maintaining broken needle control log Registers are maintained for broken needles and new
needles are issued only after returning all the pieces of the broken needle. If the small
pieces are not found then the garments being run on that machine are passed through
needle detecting machine



      Maintenance department maintains all the electronic components. In

maintenance department there are 25 worker and four electricians. Work done by
maintenance department:

Servicing of machine. Checking of Boilers for steam. Electricity supply—if power is gone
then starting of generator. Building maintenance. Oil change. Replacement of defective parts
Servicing of Motor.

175

ORGANIZATION CHART

176

SOP

177

The Maintenance Department: HEAD OF DEPARTMENT

ASSISTANT MANAGERS 3 WORKERS 6 MECHANICS 10 HELPERS 2 The roles and

responsibilities of the Maintenance Department are as follows: 1. Attend the machines
during breakdowns and put them back to work. 2. Keep sufficient materials and spares in
stock. 3. Look after boilers system and the pipelines supplying steam to the entire system in
the industry. 4. Responsibility of the rain water harvesting pond. 5. Training of the mechanics
for attending the machines during breakdowns, whenever a new machine is installed in the
industry. 6. Preventive maintenance for all the machines in the industry. 7. Proper cleaning,
oiling, greasing and checking of the machines. 8. Have a good inventory management
system. 9. Purchase orders must be given on time so that machines do not stay idle for
longer time periods. 10. Reduction of the breakdown times and idle times of the machines.
11. Improve the quality of the garments by improving the working quality of the machinery.
12. Should try for the implementation of autonomous maintenance in the sewing lines, so
that major problems occurring can be worked upon and eradicated.

178

MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT FLOW PROCESS (DURING MACHINE BREAKDOWN)

START

OPERATOR FINDS PROBLEMS WITH THE MACHINE (INTIMATION)

INFORMS SUPERVISOR / TEAM LEADER

LINE MECHANIC (line mechanic writes break down report, the time, nature of problem,
finish time, etc.)

IF REPAIRED

STORE MECHANIC (provides new machine parts)

MACHINE REPAIRED BY REPLACING THE DAMAGED PARTS

FILLING OF MACHINE BREAKDOWN REPORT BY LINE MECHANIC

STOP

FIXES THE M/C TO WORKING CONDITION

179

MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT FLOW PROCESS (FLOW OF MATERIAL) START (Need

for equipment / spares)

INDENT ENTRY (purchase requisition slip)

PURCHASE PURPOSE (permission from higher authorities)

(After permission granted) PURCHASE ORDERS GIVEN

QUALITY CHECK BY THE TRAINED MECHANICS (includes quality checking, working

condition)

GENERATION OF GOODS RECEIVING NOTES OR GRN (counting the number of goods

received + entry done on STAGE 6.1.)

LOCATING THE REQUIRED AMOUNT OF SPACE TO LOAD THE RECEIVED STOCK

PROVIDING THE LOADED TRUCK STOCK WHENEVER IT IS REQUIRED BY MACHINE

ASSET CODE NUMBER

ISSUE SLIP

STOP

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MACHINE BREAKDOWN REPORT FORMAT In general, Preventive Maintenance is

followed in the industry to keep a check over the machinery and their condition. Every day
after the working hours, the operators have been trained to clean the machines using air
guns. Weekly, a preventive maintenance program is carried out for all the machines.
Parameters that are checked are as follows: 1. Air circulation 2. Oil check 3. Oil circulation 4.
Motion of spares 5. Rusting 6. Greasing 7. Name of the mechanic attending the machine 8.
Asset code of the machine 9. Signatures of the mechanic 10. Operation name 11. Name of
the machine 12. Sewing line number 13. Date / day the preventive maintenance was carried
out. Apart from that the company follows a standard method of reporting the MACHINERY
BREAKDOWNS. The major features of this report are as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Date Sewing line no. Machine asset code number Operation done Time of breakdown
Mechanic Attending (signatures) Time on the completion of repair Nature of problem Total
idle time.

This particular format is followed for all the sewing lines. A common sheet is set up every
day over a board which is easily accessible and visible. Whenever a breakdown happens the
operators inform the team leaders and then to the line supervisor. The line supervisor writes
over the breakdown sheet regarding the breakdown and the time of breakdown.

181

It is the responsibility of the mechanics that they would check this sheet after every 15 to 20
minutes and attend the machines. The time is calculated and written down. This particular
report is taken and data entry is done on a regular basis on the system. And after that pie
charts and bar charts are developed. The use of this particular format is as follows: 1. The
total idle time is evaluated. 2. The machines which face major issues and breakdowns are
highlighted. 3. The basic natures of problems are noted down and further preventive
measures are carried out to solve problems from occurring in the future. 4. Meetings are
conducted with the mechanics for paying more focus over the special machines. 5. It gives
us feedback related to all the machines and helps in decision making as to how to reduce all
the problems and improve the quality of production. MAINTENANCE STORE The
maintenance store is handled basically by two people. They are in charge of all the
materials. They are responsible to issue the materials on time, collect the per month
requirement sheet of various departments, generate the goods receiving notes, produce the
indents, give purchase orders. There are two men employed for getting the materials from
the buyers after the orders have been given. The software that is used for record keeping by
the store of all kinds SOFTWARE NAME: Stage 6.1 SOFTWARE CREATED BY: Eco Tech
RECORDS MAINTENAINED BY THE STORE 1. GRN The term GRN stands for the Goods
Receiving Notes. Whenever the material is received at the industry, it is brought to the store
and checked by the trained mechanics. The defected pieces are separated and the good
ones are kept aside. The defected pieces are sent back to the buyers for replacement. The
goods which are approved by the mechanics are taken and the goods receiving notes are
prepared on the software stage. After that the goods are taken, counted and kept in their
proper locations, racks and bins. The GRNs are important as it helps us to know the
suppliers we are sourcing the material from, the date of purchase, the date of receiving the
goods, the address, contact details of the buyers, etc. Since a lot of money is invested on
the purchase of materials, it is helpful in making future estimates.

182

2. BROKEN NEEDLE LOG The broken needle log is good initiative by the maintenance
stores. Whenever a needle breakage happens in the sewing lines, it is the responsibility of
the team leader and operator concerned to collect all the broken pieces of the needle and
only after all the parts have been collected a new needle would be issued to the line. This is
important as it prevents the needle’s metallic part from getting inside the garment parts. If by
any chance a part is not found, the maintenance store issues a metal detector to the line.
Wherever the breakage happened, 3 meter region is checked for the broken missing part. In
case the metallic part if found it is taken to the store where they put in log line wise and after
that a new needle is issued. In case if the metallic piece is not found even after using the
metal detector, the garment pieces which are located in 3 meter area are rejected. This is
done to avoid any kind of quality defect from taking place. 3. MATERIAL ISSUE SLIPS
Whenever a material has to be issued the line in charge gets a material issue slip. This slip
includes information related to the material needed, the quantity in boxes, or pieces. The
style and size of the material. The head of department’s signatures are mandatory for
issuing the materials. The date when the material was issued is recorded in stage and the
quantity of material issued. It helps in evaluating the average consumption of the particular
materials and accordingly the purchase orders that will have to be given the next time. How
much safety stock should be kept in store is answered through these records. 4. MATERIAL
REQUIREMENT SHEET This sheet is basic medium for the store to know the requirements
of each and every department existing in the industry. The requirements are sent from four
major sections, they are as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4.

Conveyer belt system Pressing section Utility Cutting section

The requirement for the carpentry materials are given by the workers every week as per the
need. This material requirement sheets are taken and indents are prepared. All the indents
prepared tell about the quantity, the style and size of materials which have been demanded
by the various sections for the upcoming week. The indents are printed out and forwarded
183

to the person who is in charge for giving the purchase orders of the materials. And after that
the purchase orders are given away to the respective buyers. It is done manually, which
often is not accurate. The problem with this method is that the requirements are not obtained
on time, people miss out on few materials and the purchase orders keep on delaying due to
this procedure. 5. MATERIAL RECEIPT NOTE This note is obtained from the buyer
whenever the materials are received by the industry. It is done for keeping a record of the
money invested, payment done to the buyer and for recording that the material has been
received. There are various other records which are maintained. They are done in the
software STAGE VERSION 6.1 directly.

184

HR / ADMIN HR Department can be termed as the mother of any organization. It takes care
of all the employee related activities, that is the recruitment, selection, induction, training,
remunerations, provident fund, gratuity, ESI and so on the administration department takes
care of the transportation, guest accommodation and other industrial relation activities like
dealing with the labour department, pollution control board, local jurisdiction, municipal works
etc. Recruitment is done by aptitude tests. It is done in the local language. While the
employees are recruited in they are to produce the documents regarding the age proof, PF
nomination, gratuity nomination, ESI nomination and employable certificate. The induction
and the training are given to every recruited employee on the tailoring machines. They’re
also certain task force training also given for the members of the task force. The
administrative block of Raymond ltd was situated after the finishing floor and next to the
warehouse. It has an IT server room, a conference room and various cabins for the higher
officials of the factory. The Wi-Fi of the unit was maintained from this block. The
administrative block also had a pantry in it with all food and wash-room facilities. The block
was enthralling to eye as it had to welcome the buyers for the factory. It is a very well
maintained and easily accessible to all. Even an operator can approach anybody in the
administration without any problem. This makes the operators feel like a family and they do
not feel discarded.

Objectives: To maintain the personnel documents. To ensure employees benefits timely To

recruit new staff, employees etc. To receive and solve employees grievances

185

DEPARTMENT LAYOUT

ADMIN

HUMAN RESOURCE

186

ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE
PROCESS FLOW

187

IT. & MIS DEPARTMENT The company has a fully functional IT department which takes
care of the MIS and the ERP of the company. The IT department is responsible for
documenting all the transactions taking place in the company. There are two software
“Stage” and “Proman” that are being used for the purpose. Stage is Inventory Management
software while ―Proman‖ takes care of all the production related activities. Once the order
is confirmed, a new account is opened in the software which generates the work order no.
And after the Work Order no has been generated all the information related to that order can
be traced using that number. The IT department has data entry operators who regularly
enter the information into the software.

  The main functions of IT dept are:

Dealing with MIS Maintenance of all hardware like computers, scanners, printers, Xerox
machine, and fax machines etc. Dealing with ERP

Raymond also has their own intranet which connects all the computers in that network.
There is also a facility of Raymond Wi-Fi internet which is password protected and is only
accessible to the Raymond family.

188

RAYMOND TRAINING INSTITUTE. In Raymond they have their own training institute which
they have named as RTI (Raymond Training Institute.) This department falls under the HR
section. The RTI is a new initiative of Raymond unit. Through this they try to improve the
productivity of any new operator without hampering the output of the factory. In Raymond
they believe to trainee the employee as the productivity expected from them, like if 70 pcs
per hour are to be made by an operator then he or she is trained in such a way that in
training period they does the same output. There are various stages of the RTI session, they
are as follows: STAGE I In this the newly joined operators are first trained with minimum
language skills like the basis English alphabets and numbers. They are also taught little bit
of English sentences like saying their name, what work they are doing, how much they have
made and how much they will make. In this they are also teach the hygiene and safety
issues. STAGE II In the second stage the operators are given paper exercises. In this they
are given papers with different patterns made on it. The operators have to stitch as per the
patterns on the paper. This is done to make the operator know how to control the machine.
These paper exercises are evaluated by the training in- charge and based on the
performance operators were given promotions. STAGE III In this stage the operators were
made to do stitch on fabric. Different patterns were made on the fabric and operators were to
stitch accordingly. If the in- charge finds that any operator is well skilled then they are
forwarded to the next stage.

STAGE IV In this operators are taught to handle different types of fabrics and also different
types of special and automatic machines. In this stage the trainees are also made to observe
the operators working in the line.
189

OTHER PLANT DETAILS Building shed The dimensions of the building shed are 250m X
63m X 8.8m. The whole of shop floor is divided in three equal bays of 21 m each and the
apart from the two side ends, pillars support the structure and are placed at the meeting
point of two adjacent bays. These pillars are spaced at 8.04 in length. The area details are
as follows: PLOT AREA

10.2 ACRES

BUILT UP AREA

205000SQ FT

SHOP FLOOR

250X 63 M

FABRICW/H

225X 76FT

17100SQFT

TRIMS

100X 70FT

7000SQ FT

CUTIING

225X 104FT

23100SQ FT

JACKET SEWING

370X 125FT

46250SQ FT

TROUSERS SEWING

290X 81FT

23490SQ FT
JACKET FINISHING

130X 102FT

13260SQ FT

TROUSERS FINISHING

116X 52FT

116X 52 SQ FT

RTI

2040SQ FT

HR

1000SQ FT

CANTEEN

13225 SQ FT

LOCKER ROOM

2160SQ FT

CRECHE & HEALTH CENTER

2025 SQ FT

FINISHED GOODS W/H

16613 SQ FT

PREW/H

2000SQ FT

BOILER ROOM ELECTRIC & VACUUM ROOM

100X 56FT

5600SQ FT 4200SQ FT

190
The roofing material used is a steel alloy named Baregalvalume sheeting. A special kind of
translucent sheet (GRP-skylights with FRP insulation) reduces the need of artificial lighting
considerably in day time. Rafters placed at a distance of 8.04 m are designed to bear a load
of 200 kg/sq. m UDL (Uniformly Distributed Load)

CANTEEN The canteen service runs under the supervision of Mr.Jagdeesh. The canteen is
spread over an area of 13225 sq. feet and offers services through its two counters. One of
the counters is allocated to meals offered at lunch and breakfast time while the other is a
shop offering snacks items. LIBRARY The HRD offers a library service as well which majorly
consists of newspaper, project/study reports, Raymond times, event albums and a few
books related to different industrial acts and some novels. RECREATION ROOM The
recreation room provides the employees with various recreation solutions like chess, carom,
table-tennis etc. and has various sports equipments for cricket, football, volleyball, throwball,
badminton etc. LOCKER ROOMS Locker rooms spread over an area of 2160 sq. feet offers
locker facilities for the employees to keep their belongings and uniform safely in the campus.

HEALTH CENTRE The health centre offers the facility of a full-day doctor Ms.Shilpashree
and a sister named Ms.Sushila and offers primary treatment. The health centre offers an
ambulance service as well. The total area along with the crèche is 2025 sq. feet. CRECHE A
crèche facility is offered for children (below 5 years) of the employees along with the facility
of a primary teacher. The total area along with the health centre is 2025 sq. feet.

191

KANNADA CLASSES Kannada classes are offered to the employees free of cost by the
organization in the crèche area from 06.00pm to 07.30 pm. BOILER ROOM The boiler room
is the source of the steam required on the production floor for various activities which need
the action of steam. This area is around 5600 sq. feet (56 feet X 100 feet). ELECTRIC &
VACUUM ROOM The electric room is spread over an area 4200 sq. feet (140 feet X 30 sq.
feet) and consists of the panel control room, pressure control room and the vacuum centre.
RAIN WATER HARVESTING There is a rain water harvesting tank in the campus which
uses rain water for different purposes with/without recycling it. PARKING There is a parking
shed for the employees to park their vehicles inside the campus. TOILETS There are a total
of 77 toilets in the campus located in different areas. There are separate toilets for men and
women. SECURITY The security service is provided by a company named "PRIVATE EYE".
They operate in 3 shifts of 8 hour each

PROJECTS

ABSTRACT During the course of our apparel internship (25th May, 2015 to 29th August,
2015) at SSAL-II, we were allotted individual projects by the General Manager- Mr.
Kaushalendra Narayan on the 3rd day of our internship. These projects were as per the
IMEA Guidelines which the unit was following in order to be prepared for IMEA audits. Each
intern was made to join an already existing team, listed below are the respective topics:




Aditya Kumar Project: Focus on customer Industry Mentor: Mr. B.K. Sharma Kumari
Anamika Project: Layout & Material Handling System Industry Mentor: Mr. Raghvendra
Kulkarni Shankey Sawaraj Project: Improvement in Safety, Security & Periphery Industry
Mentor: Mani Vasa

 This document encloses 2 parts:

Part A consists of individual IMEA projects (listed above). Since these projects were big
ones, we finished up with our sub projects & did separate projects together. Part B consists
of 5 projects done in a group.

PART A

PROJECT 1: Team: Focus on Customer Guidelines by IMEA Team 1. Is customer

satisfaction index (CSI) measured and results conveyed to the plant? (Scientifically
conducted and statically valid) 2. Procedure for lodging customer complaint (customer care
centre/tool free lines, internet e-mail/ account managers etc) and system to ensure prompt
and effective resolution of customer complaints. 3. Does the organization follow systematic
approach to collate, analyze and summarize various sources of feedback? (Look for few
cases and action taken. 4. Analyze the cases, whether the complaints are addressed for
improving the process or is it merely an attempt to cover up?) 5. Do sales / marketing give
regular feedback to production on the product based on the feedbacks received from
market? What does this trigger? 6. Are the workers on shop floor aware of customers and
their requirements? 7. Is there a culture of internal customer on the organization? 8. Is there
substantial degree of focus on customer satisfaction throughout the plant? 9. Are customer
ratings available with quality? 10. Is customer defined as the next person in the value chain?
11. Is there a clear understanding of the customer and their requirement, throughout the
organization? 12. Degree of focus on customer satisfaction

Project: 8-D &  Customers are the one who are affected by the product or by the process
used to produce the product. There are two types of customerfeedback form
implementation: Customer satisfaction is a term frequently used in organization. It is a
measure of how products and services supplied by a company meet or surpass customer
expectation. Customer satisfaction is defined as "the number of customers, or percentage of
total customers, whose reported experience with a firm, its products, or its services (ratings)
exceeds specified satisfaction goals. Focus on customer is a method used in industry to find
out who are satisfied and who are not. It generally related to internal customer. e.g –sewing
department,cutting department etc.

Internal customers. Example- cutting dept., sewing dept. etc.

External customer. Example- buyer’s

 Market share Knowledge of customer requirements  New product introduction  Quality
certification and ratings and its application to improve processes  Definition of internal and
external customer  Availability of customer satisfaction rating Objective of study: This
project aims to ensure customer satisfaction ACTIVITES IN FOA

LIST OF INTERNAL CUSTOMERS.NO

CUSTOMERS

PATTERN

FABRIC STORES

TRIMS STORE

CUTTING

SEWING

FINISHING

WAREHOUSE

QUALITY

HR

10

IT
11

SECURITY

12

PRODUCTION

PROJECT METHODOLOGY: First analysis and take feedback from different department
has been done to know which department is satisfied and which are not. The feedback will
give clear picture of the condition of different department. After that details analysis has done
to know what are the reasons ,why the department is not satisfied and then after permanent
corrective action has been taken to improve the problem so that customer satisfaction graph
increases. Steps taken under focus on customer1. Internal customer linkage table is made to
know inter-relation between department t ,i.e - who is supplier and who is customer.

2. Different feedback forms is made for different made to take feedback form all the
department, for finding who is satisfied and who is not.

DEPT : Pattern POOR

Sr. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

DESCRIPTION Did you getting correct pattern on time with grading Did you getting Marking
pattern on time Are you getting pattern with all parts/Notches/With allowance Are you getting
information regarding bulk pattern & production pattern Timeliness of response/actions
undertaken How would you rate flexibility in work How would you rate resolution of problems
encountered Effectiveness & quality of information provided How would you rate way of
Communication Dealt with in a professional and friendly manner FILLED BY MANNU
(TROUSER LINE)

Customer Cutting NOT SATTISFIED SATTISFIED HIGHLY SATTISFIED DELIGHTED

2✓✓

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ TOTAL POINTS= 28

Feedback form filled by cutting department to rate pattern department. 3. Detail analysis is
done on the feedback taken, to find the root cause of the problem. 4. 8-D is implemented to
find the root cause of the problem and give permanent corrective action so that department
gets satisfied from the supplier.

OBSERVATION 1. Cutting department was not satisfied with pattern and fabric department.
2. Sewing department was not satisfied with cutting and pattern department. 3. Finishing
department was not satisfied with sewing department.

Suggested solution1. To take feedback from all the internal department to know who are
satisfied and DEPT : Pattern POOR

Sr. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

DESCRIPTION Did you getting correct pattern on time with grading Did you getting Marking
pattern on time Are you getting pattern with all parts/Notches/With allowance Are you getting
information regarding bulk pattern & production pattern Timeliness of response/actions
undertaken How would you rate flexibility in work How would you rate resolution of problems
encountered Effectiveness & quality of information provided How would you rate way of
Communication Dealt with in a professional and friendly manner FILLED BY MANNU
(TROUSER LINE)

Customer Cutting NOT SATTISFIED SATTISFIED HIGHLY SATTISFIED DELIGHTED

2✓✓

✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ TOTAL POINTS= 28

who are not. And what are the reason of dis-satisfaction.

2. 8-D should done on all the question whose rating is 2 or below.

3. To increase visuals on floor so that, department people easily understand rather than
written document because in organization not everyone is literate.

Register is to be maintained for customer complains loddging.

Implementations: 1. 2. 3. 4.

Regular feedback is taken from all the departments. 8-D format is implemented in all the
departments. Visuals are increased. Register is made for customer complain loddging

Benefits: Due to implementation of the solution mention above customer satisfaction rating
increases from 63% to 71 %. As in the organization internal customer is the backbone, and if
internal customer is not satisfied then the industry can not run smoothly.

Project 2 Project Title: Layout & Material Handling System Guidelines by IMEA Team 1. Is
material handling in store, continually reviewed to eliminate the nonvalue added activities? 2.
How effective is the material handling system in store? Is it primitive & old manual type or
fully automated and robotized? 3. Are the containers designed for part families and deployed
throughout the plant? 4. Is material handling from receiving to shipment, continually
reviewed to eliminate the non-value added activities? 5. How effectively the shop floor space
is utilized? Are there any goals for space use reduction? 6. Have the tooling & equipment
been designed, modified and standardized to reduce changeover & setup time? 7. Is the
layout of the job shop type, disjoint with large buffers or product line type, linked with
optimum buffers? Or highly linked and efficient processes with minimal buffers? 8. How
effective is the material handling system? Is it primitive & old manual type or fully automated
and robotized? 9. How is the travel distance between two processes? Is it extremely
inefficient with abnormally large to & fro/zigzag or fully linked? 10. Are containers designed
for part families and deployed throughout the plant?

Background of problem: The latter area of the trouser cutting section, which has trouser
numbering & bundling area faced a lot of unwanted movement due to haphazard layout.

Objective of study: Improvement in layout of trouser numbering & bundling area.

Problem: To understand the problem in layout we must look into the process flow for the
operations carried out in this area. Process flow of trouser numbering & bundling:

For plain fabric:

For fabric with checks and stripes:

In SSAL-II, trousers made of plain fabric outnumber the ones which are made out of check &
stripe fabric. This means that the layout for the outnumbered garment should be taken care
of more than the other one. Shown in the figure below is the placement of the tables and
machines in the trouser bundling &   numbering area. Here we can note:

Bundling and panel checking tables are kept by the side of numbering table. This means the
operator has to keep crossing the gangway all the time. Also, after bundling is done, 1
operator has to take the bundles from the bundling table to the trolley which is kept after the
relaying table. Since, for the panels with checks & stripes numbering is done twice. After
numbering of these panels an operator has to take these to the relaying table and bring it
back to the numbering table from the band knife m/c. Here we find that the distance covered
to perform every task is more and is thus time consuming. Also there is a lot of unwanted
movement.

Methodology: A scaled layout of the entire cutting section was made to review the space
utilization and material handling as per the IMEA guideline. Various process flows were
represented using a string diagram. This scaled string diagram visually shows the haphazard
operator movement in the latter trouser cutting area. This helped in understanding the
complication i.e.; unorganised placement of the tables and machines which led to haphazard
material flow in the trouser numbering & bundling area.

The figure below shows the proposed layout which has turned out better than the previous
one and is now implemented in the plant. Changes which were made to the previous layout:

Numbering, panel checking and bundling tables were all brought in 1 line, which has now
reduced the distance between the bundling table and the loading trolley. This also has
reduced the time. Relaying table and band knife machine are kept in a line nearby the
numbering table. This has reduced the distance covered by the operators to finish off this
task.

Actual and proposed string diagram followed by a comparison table of the distance travelled:

Benefits: Layout has been improved. This has helped eliminate the unwanted movement of
the operators and wastage of time.

Project 3 Team: Improvement in Safety, Security & Periphery Guidelines by IMEA Team 1.
Is policy in place for visitor gate pass and visitor tag? (Cross check if the visitors were given
gate pass and visitor identification card) 2. Policy for vehicle inspection procedure and gate
pass . (Check the inspection procedure and gate passes for 3-4 vehicles) 3. Effective
security system at Loading / Dispatch for Finished goods. (Verify whether the security
personnel is attending the loading and dispatch) 4. Are the visitor and vehicle details
documented? (Verify the records with the visitors visiting the plant that day) 5. Ease of
Identifying workers at any given time? 6. Can all the casual workers be identified with the
present data? ( Take sample study on causal workers for their identity and records
availability with security) 7. Are the security personnel trained on fire fighting and first aid? 8.
Are work permits issued for equipment maintenance and construction work in the plant ? ( If
work is in progress, please verify the same & also if authorization from the appropriate
person is there) 9. Is an effective security system in place? Are the security personnel
professional in their attitude? (Policy and Professional) 10. Is the boundary/fencing height
sufficient to prevent intrusion and theft? 11. Are the materials under storage free of dirt &
Leakages? 12. Is 5S implemented in the plant? Is "Place for everything and everything in its
place followed? 13. How would you rate housekeeping -shop floor appearance and
orderliness? 14. How do you ensure entry of hazard free and clean tankers, into the loading
bay?

Project: Improvement in 5S. Background of problem:

Although the industry is a 5S certified unit still there were some areas which needed
improvements. Sustainability was not there. The certificate was there but due to lack of
regular audit and response, many areas lacked 5S. . Objective of study: To improve the
condition of 5S in the industry. Methodology: For 5S implementation regular audit and
corrective actions has been done. All the steps from seiri, seiton, seiso, seiketsu and
shitsuke has been improved. For this firstly the process is broken down into 5 steps and then
implementation has been done.

Seiri (sort) For this purpose, red tag area was already in place but was not maintained/
followed. There were unwanted materials on shop floor. Also the imtems in red tag area
were not taken care of. After consulting line manager, production manager, general manager
and 5S champions, red tag area has been improved.

Seiton (set in order) All the walkways were in place. Also place for every trolley was there.
The only problem was their implementation. By regular audit, proper implementation has
been done.

Seiso (shine) After regular cleaning and training of house keeper, seiso was made in place.

Seiketsu (standardize) In this step visual aid were implemented. Different coloured hangers
for different lines were used make sure no hanger will shift from one line to another. Also
naming of sections in lines were printed, laminated and them displayed for better visual aid.

Shitsuke (sustain) In this step several training about 5S were given to operators, security
staffs and casual workers. Also weekly auid were being done to help sustain 5S.

Benefits: 5S score has improved. This can be seen in trend chart.

PART-B

PROJECT-4 Project title: To increase production of canvas spreading. Background of

problem: During my period of cutting section study I realized that the manual cutting is very
less productive that machine spreading. Two operators were needed at each table one on
each side of the table. Also the speed of the operators were slow.

OBJECTIVE OF STUDY: To increase production of spreading section. METHODOLOGY: To

increase the manual spreading productivity I got an idea. The idea what if the two plies of the
fabric are spread simultaneously. The idea can not be used in shell fabric due to shade
variation but can be easily applied to sections were shade variation is not happening such as
canvas spreading.

WORKING OF MACHINE As shown in the picture, two clamps are used instead of one.
Thus, two fabric rolls can be used simultaneously resulting in increase of production. The
only point to note that is can only be applied to section were shade variation is not the case.
Thus with same number of operators, productivity is increased.

  BENEFITS:
Increase in production. Low cost of implementation. No special training of worker is required.

FUTURE SCOPE: This can also be applied for spreading felt and fusing as they also don’t
have shade variation problem.

PROJECT-5 PROJECT TITLE: to increase production of fusing section. BACKGROUND OF

PROBLEM: During my internship I found that a lot of time in fusing section is lost in
searching fusing parts. The fusing parts were not kept in a systematic manner and as a
result time was lost in searching. Also this resulted in loss of some parts. In some cases, due
to missing of fusing parts, identical part is picked and used after trimming by operators. This
leads to re-cutting of missed parts in band knife and time wastage.

Objective of study: To increase production of fusing section.

Methodology: After analyzing the problems I came to know that the ultimate problem was
segregation of fusing parts. If by some means, the parts were segregated, then the time
wasted in searching will not be lost. Also the problem of re-cutting will be solved. Thus for
this purpose I designed a table with places for different fusing parts.

Working of table As shown in the picture above, the table is made out of wood and has
boxes for placing fusing parts. After cutting of fusing parts, the parts are arranged in the
boxes and then given to the fusing operators. The fusing operators then uses the parts.
Benifits



Reduction in search time. Helped in 5s sustainability. Problem of re-cutting of fusing parts

was solved

PROJECT-6 Project title: Jackets bypass system at similar operations. Background of

problem: During the line study, I found unnecessary operators movement to deliver their
pressed jackets. This was observed at lining press and touch-up operations. As operation
time for lining press and touch-up is more, for that 3 machines are used in each operation.
Due to Machine width the total distance covered by operator to pick-up and deliver jackets is
more which leads to wastage of time either by lining press operator to deliver pressed jacket
to button attach machine or by button attach machine operator to pick from lining press
machine. This is shown in diagram:

Figure 4: explaining unnecessary movement of operator

Objective of study: To eliminate excess movement of operators to reduce time and fatigue.
Methodology: To eliminate this waste time I designed Jacket by-pass system for Lining press
and touch-up operation. The model of my by-pass system is shown below

Working of machine For the by-pass system, main conveyor passing through lining touchup
and button attach is made discontinuous and stopped at the last lining touchup operation.
The part of main conveyor at button attach is extended till first lining touchup operation. Also
the extended part is made inclined keeping bypass at first lining touchup at higher level than
at button attach. This inclination is done to run the jacket with any mechanical or muscular
force.

Benefits: Due to this by-pass system now neither lining operators require to come to button
attach machine operator or nor the button attach machine operators require to move to lining
machine to collect jackets for button attach. In this way I have reduced over all operators’
movement.

PROJECT-7 Project title: To provide feasible solution for increasing productivity in jacket
line.. Background of problem: During the line study, I found unnecessary operators
movement to deliver their pressed jackets. This was observed at lining press and touch-up
operations. As operation time for lining press and touch-up is more, for that 3 machines are
used in each operation. Due to Machine width the total distance covered by operator to pick-
up and deliver jackets is more which leads to wastage of time either by lining press operator
to deliver pressed jacket to button attach machine or by button attach machine operator to
pick from lining press machine. Objective of study: This project aims at developing strategies
and solutions to increase productivity of the jacket. To eliminate this waste time I designed
Jacket by-pass system for Lining press and touch-up operation. The model of my by-pass
system is shown below

Existing condition: Production: - 350 pcs/ day (Average) Operator: - 119 Machines: - 100
Productivity: - 350/119= 2.95

Project methodology: First analysis of production activities has been done to know the
activities happening in the line. This gives the clear picture of the condition of the line and
what are the scope of improvement. All the operations with machine and feed used are
studied and cause of low productivity is also enlightened.

Observation (Main causes of low production) Men:

Less skilled operators whose are unable to give production as per their capacity.



Absenteeism which creates unavailability of operators for particular operations Unnecessary

movement, indiscipline and talkativeness of operator in the line which disturbs other operator
to concentrate on their work. Lack of awareness in Team-leader, Supervisor, Line in-charge,
Production technician, Industrial engineer, Maintenance personnel and Quality controller
about their job responsibilities

 Material:

Fabric loading issue like loading not on time, sometime more extra loading and some-time
no loading, Fabric Cutting issue like wrong cutting, wrong numbering, same panel cutting,
and number mismatching.
  Machine:

More Machine breakdown No extra emphasis on maintenance for critical machines Less
maintenance personnel for maintenance of machine and even for rectification after machine
breakdown i.e. 5 persons for all the 6 jacket line.

   Method:

Poor production planning before starting the production Very low technical support for the
operations in the line. Less work on the root cause of any alteration in between the line due
to which problems coming continuously. Less responsibility of alteration in the line where
more than one operator is working because of no tracking of operator that whose alteration
is more or less.

Suggested Solution Men:

Multi-skilling training which can make more skilled operators and can solve the problem of
absenteeism in the line of particular operations. Firstly bottleneck operation’s operators
should be trained. Each operator- 4 operations Each operation- 4 operators Floater training



Strict supervision can control more talk between operators in the line which can control
rework HR control on operator for indiscipline activity Strict supervision and getting
permission every time for P & FA can reduce more P & FA. Make job responsibility card and
give to Team-leader, Supervisor, Line in-charge, Production technician, Industrial engineer,
Maintenance personnel and Quality controller

   Material:

Make plan to give requisition one day prior for getting load Make shortage slip and collect
data of shortage load after fix time Check loaded fabric and trims with serial number and
check shade variation before starting the production Check loading quality and material
issues before starting production

 Machine:

Prefer preventive maintenance according to machine breakdown data Recruitment of more

maintenance staffs if possible.

     Method:

Use of software such as fastreact for real time planning. Make mock- up sample for self –
checking at required operation like peak making, sleeve attach, bottom press, bottom join
etc. Recruit technicians if possible. Tools like root cause analysis should be used for getting
the root of the cause. Prepare Control chart sheet –Per hour output of starting operation,
middle operation and end point operation. Change the layout of the line wherever machine is
far and returning operation is there.

Implementations:

Process standardizitation has been done.

Multiskilling of operators has been done.

Job responsibility card has been made

Traffi

c light system had been implemented to show crictical areas and to identify operators who
are not up to the mark.

Material requisition slip had been made and implemented in cutting section.

Benefits: Due to this by-pass system now neither lining operators require to come to button
attach machine operator or nor the button attach machine operators require to move to lining
machine to collect jackets for button attach. In this way I have reduced over all operators’
movement.

PROJECT-8 Project title: warehouse location planner. Background of problem: Warehouse

at SSAL-2 contains 23 racks marked A to W. each rack is further divided into 8 sections. A
full rack has capacity of 400 garments and half rack has capacity of 200. Without a proper
location planning, it takes a lot of time to search for specific garment. Thus there is a need of
visual aid which can tell the location of a particular piece. Objective of study: visual
representation of the warehouse.

   Problem observed:

Operator manually allocates rack to the incoming jackets. Operator maintains logbook
wherein allocated racks are written along with order no. It takes operator lots of time to
search for the missing pieces. Difficult to allot rack to new orders.

Project methodology: To eliminate time wastage in searching and allocation new racks, I
developed a location planner for showing which order is at which place in ware house.

Working of machine
Complete layout of the warehouse racks presented on a board with racks A – W.

C C1-50 C1-50 C1-50 C1-50

C5

C2

C6

C3

C7

       C4

C8

Each rack is divided into 8 sections marked C1 - C8 and so on. Each section is further
divided into 4 parts. Each part has a capacity of 50 pieces. Different buyers represented on
the board through different colors. This would help to identify different location of a buyer at
a single glance. Coloured cards of same size as each part in the rack are being used which
are hung on the desired location. Order no and size written on the card. Cards are laminated
and can be reused.

  Benefits:

This would help to identify different locations of a buyer at a single glance. Any new person
can easily access the orders. Beneficial during buyer audit.