Eyasu Mesele

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BAHIRDAR ETHIOPIAN INSTITUTE

UNIVERSITY OF TEXTILE AND


FASHION TECHNOLOGY

HOSTING COMPANY: SHEBA LEATHER INDUSTRY P.L.C

DEPARTMENT OF LEATHER ENGINEERING

TITLE; IMPLEMENTATION OF ADOBE SOFTWARE IN


LEATHER DESIGN

BY; HAFTOM GEBREMIKLE


ID; 0900073

ACADAMIC ADVISOR; TARIKU ASSEFA


COMPANY ADVISOR; MIKIELE DESTA
2021

Bahirdar
DECLARATION

I, Eyasu Mesele fourth year Leather Engineering student have undertaken my internship
Experience in Sheba leather industry from a period of February to June 2020/2021 under the
guidance of Mr. Tariku Assefa (Academic advisor) and Mr. Mikale desta (company advisors).
I, undersigned, declare that this Project is my original work and compiled according to the
internship report writing guideline given by the Institute-Industry Linkage office of the Institute.
As the student’s academic advisor, I certify that the internship report written by the student is my
original work and compiled according to the guideline provided by the institute’s office as far as
my knowledge is concerned.

Mr.Tariku Assefa ____________ __________

Name of the Academic Advisor Signature Date

Eyasu Melese ___________ ___________

Name of the student Signature Date


ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

First let me start my thanks and glory to my almighty GOD for providing me hope, strength and
courage throughout my life. I am deeply indebted to my family for their support and guidance
throughout the course of my studies & research. Secondly, I would like to thank my company
monitor Mr. Mikale desta for his continuous support, guidance, through correction and effort in
doing this project. Especial thanks to my academic advisor Mr.Tariku Assefa for his unreserved
assistance in developing my project .Finally I would like to express my appreciation and thanks
to Sheba Leather Industry Private Limited Company top Managements and company workers for
their support in the internship time and project work.
Executive Summary

This internship report covered my four months stay in Ethiopian tannery Share Company. The
contents of the report have been divided into three chapters and the topics covered include the
company background, our overall internship experience, and the benefits we gained from the
program, our conclusions and recommendations for the company. To help anyone reading this
report better understands the discussed topics and ideas, figurative illustrations and samples of
works and different report formats which are attached at the middle of the topics.

Chapter one is about background of my hoisting company. Here brief history of the company; its
vision, Mission, main products of the company .suppliers, customers, machineries and utilities
and other important information of the company are included.

Chapter two discusses about a project work which have done on hide upper cg plain box without
impregnation coat. .

Chapter three presents about benefits and experiences that are got on first month
CHAPTER ONE

INTRODUCTION

1.1. History of the company

Sheba Leather Industry plc. is located in northern part of Ethiopia, Tigray region-Wukro. It was
established in 1993G.C in accordance with the commercial cod of Ethiop with initial capital of
94 million birr under effort endowment for rehabilitation of Tigray. Its total production area is
1720 m2. Firstly, this company started with one plant that is called tannery production. At this
time the factory worked by producing leather product and exports only crust (semi-finished
leather) products the company completely the leather by using different finishing techniques.
Since, this past eight years Sheba factory extended by establishing another plant which called
foot wear production plant.

Having the two plants the company has vast local and external marketing area. During this ten
year the company has become one of the leading leather and footwear production in Ethiopia by
efficiently use of resource, getting export currency and preventing global warming. The flexible
and superior technological capacity they have, coupled with their highly committed work force,
gives them leverage to achieve their objectives and successfully compete in the global market.
This factory is on the out skirts of leather, ideally situated for national and international
communication. This web site allows them to deliver our goods on time to local and international
customers. The special things about the company from other company are: Used moderate
equipment and machine in both plants which makes the working condition so easy and better
quality product. In addition to that the factory initiates workers to update their knowledge with
the help of new technology. This works to have global attention for its product Tannery plant
feeds to its foot wear plant.
Figure: 1.1. Over view inside Sheba factory

1.2 Mission of the company

To provide best leather products to the international market through maximum utilization the
country raw materials with continuous generation of wealth to the shareholders there by
contribute its share to the regional & national economy.

1.3. Vision of the company

 To brand foot wear and glove to international market until 202


 To become an exemplary organization in both local and international leather &leather
product market
 Exemplary in the sense that Sheba leather industry will be noted for;
 High quality products and services
 Value in return for money invested
 On time delivery
 Integrity
 Respect and dignity for employees
 Profitability etc.

1.4 Objectives of the company


 To improve high quality product
 To produce shoe and finished leather with quality within the country as well as export in
Europe &other customers
 To increase profitability
 To satisfy customers
 To become competitor intermarket

1.5 Value statement

 Treating its internal and external customers the way that, they would want to be required
for their product
 Safety of employee to it first priority task. Because, workers are working on an area with
different chemicals and machines that can be harmful for their healthy.

1.6 Strategy

 Continuously engage in employee and product development


 Invest continuously on advanced technology where practical and economical
 In calculate cost consciousness without compromising product excellence
 Give priority to understand customers‟ needs and meet their specific requirements
 Develop team spirit and sense of ownership
 Embrace open –wide communication

1.7 Core Values

 Customer first
 Loyalty
 Learning culture
 Commitment

1.8 .Supplier and Customer’s


1.8.1 Suppliers

Because the company has two plants the supply and marketing department tries to fulfilling their
different inputs and searching market places for their output. For tannery plant the company
collects the row material skin and hides from different region of the country. Almost all leather
chemical such as sulfuric acid, common salt and time available in local market. The shoe plant
the company collects its row materials like outsole by importing currently from Italy, Turkey and
other necessary material can get from local market. But the main source for producing shoe,
leather can get from local market.

1.8.2. Customers

The company has a production capacity of 25, 600 square feet of skin 11,200 square feet of
finished hide and 800 pair shoe per day. Currently the company is producing 600pair of shoe per
day considering the long term commitment and Ethiopian government policy, the company
isdesigned shoe for local and international market. About 20% of the total production is exported
to international market in the form of finished leather and footwear the major destination
countries for the products are Italy, China, Russian, Indian,

France, Belgium, Sweden, Turkey and others. Some local customers of the companies are
Ramsey, Tikur ABAY, and Ambesa shoe industries.

1.9 Main raw materials of the company

Raw materials that are used by tannery production plant are: - Liquids such as: chemicals, cool
water and steam water Solids such as: chemicals, raw hides and skins Accessories and
miscellaneous etc. The raw materials that are used by shoe production plant are:-

 Finished leather
 Outsole
 Insole
 Shoelace and accessory etc.

1.10. Production system of Sheba tannery


All the production system chains performed in this factory are interconnected internally with
each other and externally with their supplier and customer. These processes cross each function
or department in the organization that contributes to achieving customer requirements. In Sheba
there are two production systems. Such are leather processing and shoe processing.

1.10.1 Tannery production system

Leather processing in general comprises scores of unit operations. Well defined process control
parameters for each unit operation which would influences the quality of the leather should be
monitored and supervised with necessary attention. Proper control measures are essential to
achieve consistent quality, delivery schedule and customer satisfaction. Close supervision of
each unit operation. Any deviation from the established protocol may harmfully affect the quality
of the final product. Hence, this leather process needed workforces that have basic knowledge
about the quality because the raw material (hides and skin) affected and defected naturally or
during process. That way inspection while the row material is on store.

Methods of preservation; wet salted hide, dry salted and dried hide

1) Beam house operation:

(A) Soaking

Objective;

 to rehydrate the skin/hide


 to remove curing salt
 to remove soluble protein
 to remove dirt’s and blood
 Main chemicals used during soaking are water, fungicide, wetting agent, soda ash and
buzyme148
 Parameters to be consider temperature, duration, PH, float length, RPM, and
concentration of chemicals. AS well as complete rehydration and pliable in all section are
some of methods of checking its completion.
(B) Liming

Objective;
 To remove keratinous matter, hair ,hooks
 To remove natural fat
 To remove soluble protein
For liming used listed Chemicals:- water, Na2S, NaHS, and CaO.Parameters, duration,
temperature, RPM, float length, PH. And concentration of chemical Check hair slippage,
degree of swelling and ph. (12-13) for its completion

(C) DE liming

Objective;

 To remove lime from the pelt


 To lower Ph. for bating process

DE Liming listed Chemicals used:- water, sodium meta bi-sulfate, and (NH4) SO4
Parameters to be control; duration, temperature, ph, float length, and concentration of
chemicals. AS well as using phenolphthalein we can its completion.

(D)Bating process

Objective;

 To remove most of the lime


 To produce slippery grain
 To remove all swelling and plumping
 To remove scud, dirt. short hair and dark color by scudding
 To remove remaining hypodermic tissue/flesh are loosened and become easily
removed by scrapping.
Chemicals used; water, buzyme148, and other enzymes.
Parameters to be control; duration, temperature, ph, float length, and concentration of
chemicals.as well as using thump (hide) and bubble (skin) test we can be check its
completion.

(E) Pickling
Objective;

 prepare substrate for tanning


 allow long term storage for hide/skin

Chemical used; salt, Sulfuric acid, formic acid and water. Parameters to be control; duration,
temperature, ph., float length, and concentration of chemical

2. Tanning operation

Define as the conversion of putrefactive hide/skin into stable material called leather.

Objective;

 Increase resistance to heat


 Resists bacterial degradation
 Better shape retention
 Swells less in water
 Factors to be considered; float length, concentration chrome salt,
selection of tanning, duration, concentration chemicals and rpm,
temperature, and ph of liquor
 Checking of completion of tanning; Use boil test for hide and Check
shrinkage temperature for skin
 Summing machine; is used to reduce moisture content of wet blue
leather.
 Splitting machine; used to split leather in to two parts.
 Shaving machine, used to adjust the thickness of leather based on
customers order.

3. Post tanning operation

A) Acid wash; is used to, remove loosely held and unfixed chrome and adjust
pH for re chroming. Chemical used; water, degreasing DG1811and formic acid.
(B) Re chroming
Objective
 used to Get more uniform chromium content in all section
 used to get required amount of chrome as per product or demanded by the buyers
 used to get fresh cationic charge in aged wet blue

Chemical used; Tankrom AB, LipsolEMK, and Sodium format

(C) Neutralization
Objective,
 To adjust charge characteristics of leather for further process
 To remove acids and loosely fixed chrome
 To remove un fixed chromes
 To de acidify the leather
Chemicals used; Water, Tanigan PAK liquid, Sodium formats‟ and Sodium bicarbonate

(D)Re tanning

Objective;

 To improve the fullness and uniformity of substance


 To fill the looser area in order to get uniform substance and fiber compaction in all parts
of the skin
 To impart body and round feel
 To avoid grain looseness, improve break and grain tightness
Chemical used; Water, Synthetic tanning agents and mimosa powder are used Factors
consider; Temperature, float volume, RPM, concentration syntans, duration and ph.

(E) Dyeing

Objective;

 Used to impart color as per fashion


 Used to impart color as per fashion demand
 To make the leather attractive
Chemicals used; water, acid dyes and anionic dyes
Factors to be consider; con. Dye and its proportionality, float, rpm, particle size of the
dye, fastness properties of the dye, penetration of the dye, charge of the leather and
temperature.

(F) Fat liquor

Purpose;

 To lubricate the fiber


 To prevent friction b/n fibers
 To impart softness, flexibility and drape
 To strength the fiber
 Chemicals used; water, Lip sol EMK, Lip sol J622 and oils
 Fixation; the chemicals used until know is fixed by using formic acids
 .Setting out m/c; used to make the leather flat, and remove moisture content of
leather.
 Vacuum drying; used to reduce moisture content of leather.
 Stacking m/c; used to make the dried leather soft.
 Buffing m/c; used to remove imperfections of leather.

4. Finishing operation

Objective

 To achieve uniformity
 To upgrade lower grade leather
 To add aesthetic value
 To cover defects

Binders, pigments, dye solutions, waxes, fillers and others are chemicals used in finishing
operations. Automatic spraying, roller coating, ironing, and plating are m/c used in finishing
Main products of Sheba tannery

Different machines used in leather processing


No Type of machine
Beam house section Drum (9), fleshing m/c(4)
Tanning section Drum (6),summing (3),splitting(1),shaving(4)

Post tanning section Drum(14),setting out(4) vacuum


drying(2),v/stacking(2),r/stacking(2)

Finishing operation operation Roller coating(1),


spraying(2),plating(1),buffing(9) toggling(1)
Measuring(1),ironing(1)

1.10.2 Shoe production system

in this production process the main product is the shoe having different size and style by using
leather as the major input (in which it produced in its own tannery plant) and other row material
like outsole and shank board. Beside shoe production glove is also produced and like that of shoe
production the main sources of its row material is the tanner plant itself.

Figure1.2. Shoe product having different styles


Inside this production system different operation are activated. These are cutting, stitching
operation, bottom operation, assembly, and finishing. As described below in detail.

(A) Cutting operation (B) Upper preparation (C) Stitching operation


Cutting of upper and lining Stamping m/c Stitching
Reinforcement Ironing (attaching textile) Folding and perforating
Insoles, shank boards Splitting Jewelry and buckle
attaching
Skiving of raw edge lining trimming
Marking stitching allowance Toe performing& v/crimping

(D) Bottom operation (E) Assembling (lasting) (F) Finishing operation


Preparation of shank board Attach in sole with last Inspection
Roughing inside front vamp Attaching upper with last Thread burning
Preparing shoe lace Toe, side and heel lasting Shoe cleaning
Preparing insole upper smoothing roughing out sole stitching Skive
shank board and Sole pressing and de-lasting Shoe lace preparation and pack
Trimming

Products of the Shoe Plant


In the shoe plant a numbers of fashioned products are introduced. Some of them are:- Lady
Ballerinas, winter boots, sandals, classics and fashion casuals for both winter and summer
seasons and men formal shoes, winter boots, sandals, trendy casuals & moccasins for both winter
and summer seasons.
Industrial gloves, belts, and wallet
1.11 Organizational structure of Sheba leather industry plc.
CHAPTER TWO
Avoiding impregnation step at the finishing of hide upper cg plain box leather formulation
at Sheba Leather Company
2.1 Introduction
Finishing operation is the most vital part of the processing of leather as the final product is
judged by its appearance, evenness of color and surface, feel, handle, break, gloss etc.

Hence it is usually the finishers who have to face the complaints or blames, if anything goes
wrong. They are also expected to correct whatever faults that have occurred during the earlier
operations. The objective of finishing is to give a treatment of coatings to the grain surface to
protect it against dirt, staining, wetting, mechanical stresses like rubbing, scuffing, flexing etc.,
leveling or evening out the color of the grain surface, hiding grain blemishes and upgrading its
quality, Improving the aesthetic appeal and the sales value of the product. By the finishing
process, the Grain surface of the leather is coated with various substances and is then submitted
to different mechanical operations, depending upon the purpose intended whereby the
appearance of leather can be highly influenced to make it more useful, attractive and appealing to
users. Finishing may be employed to impart colors, a uniform shade, special patterns, a smooth
or grained or printed/embossed surface, luster (Matt or glossy) as well as opaque (covered) or
transparent (aniline/semi-aniline) appearance to the leather surface.

Finishing was once considered as an art and was kept a secret but today with the introduction and
availability of a wide variety of leather finishing chemicals and mechanization, finishing is no
longer that secret. However, in spite of the innumerable finishing auxiliaries available and
marketed by the firms providing details like general composition and properties of the products,
mode of application with formulation for different types of finishing of leather, finishing is still
dependent upon the finisher’s ability of judging and blending of different auxiliaries to make his
own combination to give the best finishing effect. Also, he keeps in mind the high qualities
required from finishing, like adhesion, flexibility, durability against weathering and aging,
durability against dry and wet rubbing, resistant to pealing, cracking on flexing, light fastness,
resistant to the various mechanical operations involved in finishing and permeability to water
vapor an air thus ensuring the hygienic conditions. A normal finish essentially consists 3 coats
(bottom, season and top coats) [ CITATION dut081 \l 8201 ].

Bottom coat

The bottom coat may be either sealing or impregnation coat and clearing coat. The objective of
Sealing or impregnating coat is to seal the grain to control the penetration of the season coat. The
season coat should give a leveled and uniform filmed color coating and not overload the grain.
Sealing should uphold firmly on the leather surface. Impregnation coat is applied for soft grain
tightening and filling effects. The objective of the clearing coat is to make the grain devoid of
any oils or fats and to improve the absorbance of the season coat by the leather.

Impregnation coat
Impregnation coat is one type of bottom coat. The objective of Sealing or impregnating coat is to
seal the grain to control the penetration of the season coat. Sealing should uphold firmly on the
leather surface. Impregnation coat is applied for soft grain tightening and filling effects.

For a chemical used and finishing operation; impregnation; it is a coat the purpose of it act as
like a sealing coat and this helps in sealing the buffed fibers completely in order for the
chemical to not penetrate through the leather and this will form a more uniform surface

2.2. Problem statement


Leather finishing is one of the processes in leather industry that needs an expertise care for
adding values of leather by giving the leather its final appearance and make it useful, attractive
appealing and quality to its users. This process also uses different chemicals and techniques to
give those values to the leather and the quality is depend up on the expert for his ability to
formulate the finishing paste or finishing formulation. The bottom coat may be either sealing or
impregnation coat and clearing coat. The objective of Sealing or impregnating coat is to seal the
grain to control the penetration of the season coat. In Sheba Leather Company used impregnation
coat during finishing of hide upper cg plain box Leather but this step is not necessary to produce
hide upper cg plain box because it used high amount of chemical consumption, increase lead
time and required man power therefore this step is not highly necessarily. Therefore I will try to
analysis the physical test for conventional and new investigation.

2.3. Objective
2.3.1. General objective
 Avoiding impregnation step at the finishing of hide upper cg plain box leather
formulation
2.3.2. Specific objective
 Determine the physical properties of coating with impregnation step in hide upper cg
plain box
 Distinguished the properties of coating with impregnation and without impregnation step
 Cost analyses mainly regarding to chemical, electric and man power

2.4 Scope of project

This project only focuses in finishing of hide upper cg plain box at impregnation and cost
analysis basically chemicals used during impregnation step in Sheba Leather Company.

2.5. Limitation of the project

 A project done with short period of time

There is no instrument used for parameter analysis,

 Organized library
 Computer and internet access

2.6. Significant of the project

2.6.1. Benefit

 Increase the customer satisfactions and attraction,


 To reduce lead time
 To improve the export capacity of the company to compute other
Ethiopian tanneries and companies
 Minimize manufacturing cost

2.6.2. Beneficiaries

 Company
 Customer

2.7 Literature review

Finishing operation is the most vital part of the processing of leather as the final product is
judged by its appearance, evenness of color and surface, feel, handle, break, gloss etc. Hence it is
usually the finishers who have to face the complaints or blames, if anything goes wrong. They
are also expected to correct whatever faults that have occurred during the earlier operations
[ CITATION dut081 \l 8201 ]. The objective of finishing is to give a treatment of coatings to the
grain surface to protect it against dirt, staining, wetting, mechanical stresses like rubbing,
scuffing, flexing etc., leveling or evening out the color of the grain surface, hiding grain
blemishes and upgrading its quality, Improving the aesthetic appeal and the sales value of the
product. By the finishing process, the Grain surface of the leather is coated with various
substances and is then submitted to different mechanical operations, depending upon the purpose
intended whereby the appearance of leather can be highly influenced to make it more useful,
attractive and appealing to users. Finishing may be employed to impart colors, a uniform shade,
special patterns, a smooth or grained or printed/embossed surface, luster (Matt or glossy) as well
as opaque (covered) or transparent (aniline/semi-aniline) appearance to the leather surface.
Finishing was once considered as an art and was kept a secret but today with the introduction and
availability of a wide variety of leather finishing chemicals and mechanization, finishing is no
longer that secret. However, in spite of the innumerable finishing auxiliaries available and
marketed by the firms providing details like general composition and properties of the products,
mode of application with formulation for different types of finishing of leather, finishing is still
dependent upon the finisher’s ability of judging and blending of different auxiliaries to make his
own combination to give the best finishing effect. Also, he keeps in mind the high qualities
required from

Finishing, like adhesion, flexibility, durability against weathering and aging, durability against
dry and wet rubbing, resistant to pealing, cracking on flexing, light fastness, resistant to the
various mechanical operations involved in finishing and permeability to water vapor an air thus
ensuring the hygienic conditions. A normal finish essentially consists 3 coats (bottom, season
and top coats) (Dutta’s, 2008). Bottom coat the bottom coat may be either sealing or
impregnation coat and clearing coat. The objective of Sealing or impregnating coat is to seal the
grain to control the penetration of the season coat. The season coat should give a leveled and
uniform filmed color coating and not overload the grain. Sealing should uphold firmly on the
leather surface. Impregnation coat is applied for soft grain tightening and filling effects. The
objective of the clearing coat is to make the grain devoid of any oils or fats and to improve the
absorbance of the season coat by the leather.

Season Coat

The season coat is to impart a desired color to the leather and level out the surface defects. The
effects like glossy or matt, soft or hard feel can be brought about by proper choice of auxiliaries
added to the season coat. This coat can be done either by pad or hand spray or Auto spray. By
spraying on we can achieve levelness in film formation.
Top Coat

Top coat serves the purpose of protecting the season coat. It gives properties like appearance,
handle, fastness to wet and dry rub resist to hot plating.

2.7.1 Classification of finishes based up on transparency and look

Aniline Finish

Leathers that were formerly buffed and heavily filled with film forming materials like polymers
and covered with opaque/covering pigments is slowly replaced and given an aniline look
subsequently. Aniline finish is a transparent/translucent finish, which keeps the natural
appearance so that the original grain pattern of leather surface is easily visible. This is a lighter
finish without loading the surface of the good quality of leathers. It will have good fastness to
light and bleeding. Aniline finish is done only in full grain leathers to retain the natural grain
clearly visible. The main feature of aniline leather is its natural

appearance and handle so that the original grain pattern of the leather surface is best retained
when the leather is dried out after uniformed level dyeing and fat liquoring without any surface
treatment of finishing coats [ CITATION cov091 \l 8201 ]. Semi-aniline or aniline look or mock-
aniline finish these types finishing are more adopted for plated finished leather. The leathers are
more or less heavily re tanned and invariably the leathers are snuffed on the grain lightly or
deeply depending upon the defects in the grain surface. After initial impregnation the grain
surface may be coated with a good covering of opaque pigments to hide the defects. The finisher
then uses his skill to give a slightly darker tone on the top using sprits soluble dyestuff
transparent organic pigments/colored lacquer emulsions etc., so that they look like aniline
leather. Effects like pull up, speckle effect, smoky effect can be produce Finishing based on
transparent pigments and little of opaque (covering) pigments for hiding slight grain blemishes.
Sometimes opaque finishing is done first to hide the grain defects and on which an aniline
look/mock aniline effect is given by applying dyestuffs and/or transparent pigments etc [ CITATION
fat12 \l 8201 ].

Opaque or Covering Finish


Finish using covering pigments for hiding the grain defects and damages or for covering the very
uneven drum dyeing. Here covering pigments are used along with polymer (resin) dispersions
and other auxiliaries. Sometimes little dye solutions is also added to brighten the finish. Finally
they are top coated with lacquer emulsions or lacquers.(Thorsten Sen, 1976)

2.7.2 Various constituents used in finishing formulations

(a) Pigment paste (e) Plasticizers

(b) Dye solution (f) Wax emulsions

(c) Binders/ Gloss giving agents (g) Fixing agents

(d) Fillers (h) Preservatives

Pigment paste

The quality of pigment paste depends upon the particle size and shape of original dry pigment
coolers and degree of dispersion besides the above-mentioned properties. Pigments are broadly
divided into inorganic and organic. Organic pigments give better

Brilliance but they lack covering and fastness and Inorganic pigments are widely used as they
have better covering and fastness properties[ CITATION sof03 \l 8201 ].
Table2.1 comparison of organic and inorganic pigments
Organic pigment Inorganic pigment
Good brilliance Less brilliance
Less covering power Good covering power
Can show bleeding Don not show bleeding
Less settling Greater tendency to settling
Less body Good body
Impure May be impure
Expensive Not as expensive
Larger particle size and coarser Smaller particle size and fine

Dye solutions
In protein finishes, only anionic dyestuffs can be used for brightening the aqueous finishes.
Because of the opposite charge, basic dyes cannot be mixed with protein finishes as they may
precipitate. As normal anionic dyestuffs contain additives, for finishing concentrated dye stuffs
are marketed and used. Metal complex dyes with special molecular structure which are soluble in
solvents like alcohol, di acetone alcohol, dimethyl formanide, oxitol are used not only for
coloring lacquers but also sometimes in protein finish. (K.T.Sarkar, 1996)
Binders/ Gloss Giving Agents
Pigments themselves are not capable of adhering to the leather or forming a continuous
film.Binders act as dispersion medium, a vehicle and as an adhesive to bind the pigment particle
to the leather surface. Binders may be thermoplastic (resin) and thermo set(protein).Important
binders in aqueous or aniline finish are casein, mucilage, flesh glue, gelatin, shellac, albumins,
gums, waxes etc. For pigmented or resin finish, poly acrylate, poly butadiene, polyurethane type
of binders are used.

Protein binders
Protein binders are used on a large scale in the leather industry, and are based on casein, albumin
and synthetic polyamides. They belong to the group of thermosetting binders so they do not
soften when temperatures are increased in finishing. Leathers can therefore be plated and
embossed at high temperature without becoming tacky. In addition these binders can be used to
provide a strong glazing effect since they form discontinuous films. When used with acrylic,
butane or polyurethane binders, the natural tackiness that these products exhibit is reduced.
Protein binders withstand the hot iron test, but in order to enhance the fastness to wet rub,
crosslinking with formaldehyde or poly aziridine is required bum in and synthetic
polyamides[ CITATION bas07 \l 8201 ].
Resin binder
Acrylic resins are manufactured by reacting (polymerizing) various quantities and ratios of
acrylic monomers. Each acrylic monomer will contribute to different properties.

Different polymer combinations are possible resulting in products with different and specific
characteristics. Acrylic emulsions are tiny insoluble resin particles uniformly dispersed in water.
The acrylic emulsions used for leather are film forming (i.e.) on evaporation tiny resin particles
flow together to form a durable uniform film.

Wax Emulsions
Wax emulsions are one of the most important leather finishing materials. Popular waxes are
carnauba wax, micro crystalline wax, montan wax, shellac wax, paraffin wax etc., and other
modern synthetic waxes of different hardness. In leather finishing, waxes as emulsions are used
as aqueous dispersing agents along with other finishing agents to impair what is known as waxy
feel in the trade. Wax emulsions with or without oils capable of giving different characteristics
like gloss, feel, smoothness, touch are marketed particularly for glaze finishing. Wax emulsions
are particularly important in resin finishing helping release in hot plating. Leather which are
finishing based on acrylic polymers when plated at pressure and temperature have a tendency to
stick to the plates.

The use of wax emulsions (low melting waxes) in suitable quantities along with resin binders
reduces the tenancy to stick on to the plate due to the melting of the dispersed wax and releasing
the leather from the plate. This plate releasing wax dispersions should be used in optimum
quantities as if excess used in bottom coats may no longer adhere properly. (K.T.Sarkar, 1996)

Plasticizers

Binding materials like casein, albumin, gelatin etc., do not give films sufficiently elastic to
withstand natural movements and flexing of the surface on which they are applied. The film has
to be plasticized in sufficient quantities to prevent it from cracking and flexing.

Sulphate oils are popular and most popular amongst them are sulphate castor oil (TRO).

TRO is also used in making aqueous pigment pastes from dry pigment powers. In protein
finishes, TRO acts as not only a plasticizer but also as a wetting agent. It promotes uniform flow
of the finish on less absorbent leathers but on highly absorbent leathers, it may cause the finish to
penetrate too deep. An excessive amount of plasticizer may make the film very soft, make the
grain surface tacky and also prevent gloss. Wet rub fastness is also affected.

Preservatives

Casein and other protein binders besides aqueous pigment pastes are required to be preserved
against putrefaction. A small quantity of suitable preservative has to be used in stock solutions of
binders, finishes and seasons to be used. The most commonly used are

PCMC (CMK), sodium tri chlorophenate, sodium orthophenylphenate, sodium


Pentachlorophenate etc. About 0.5 - 2.0 gm. Of preservative upon the dry weight of proteinous
material is required.

Feel Modifiers
Feel modifiers gives the final finished leathers an excellent touch, silky, smooth and also
improves the dry and wet rub fastness. Feel modifiers have two way of touch one is slippery feel
and other one is waxy feel there are two separate products which can be introduced according to
the final product of the buyer’s sample. (K.T.Sarkar, 1996)

2.7.3 Types of coating techniques

1) Padding technique

In the case of padding the finish formulation is normally applied with a sponge or folded cloth.
This was the primitive technique used beforehand spray and auto spray techniques. Using this
techniques defects are covered to a greater extent but the main disadvantages are uniformity,
productivity and consistency[ CITATION uni10 \l 8201 ].

a) Tipping technique

Method to achieve high gloss or a mostly dark contrast color on raised sections of embossed
grain leathers. This is done manually with a sponge, a folded cloth, cleaning wool or cotton wool
covered with a permeable cloth. The pad is first dipped into a lacquer or dye solution and then
lightly wiped over the raised parts. This serves to achieve two-color effects and high-gloss or
matt effects.

b) Tam pronation technique:

This is one another technique of padding where fancy effects are obtained on the grain surface of
leather. Normally this technique is used to get an uneven contrast color on the top. It is also done
to create darker colors on a beige crust and get it finished.

(J.H.Sharpouse, 1971)

2) Spraying technique: (hand spray and auto spray)

It is the most common method and is applied by means of compressed air. It is suitable for
applying aqueous and solvent-containing finishing floats. This is done by means of manual
spraying guns in spraying cabins with exhausters or by means of automatic spraying guns on
continuous spraying belts. These work either in horizontal to-and-fro movement or by a rotary
principle. 2 - 10 spraying guns are interconnected to achieve an even well settled surface
appearance and to increase the through feed rate of the leathers.

The required amount of finishing agent can be regulated by means of the belt speed (8-18

m/min), the spraying pressure (2-5 bar) and the nozzle opening of the spraying guns (1.5-3 mm).

Figure 6 hand spray machine parts

An alternative method is spraying without compressed air, called airless spraying method. The
finishing liquor is pressed through a very fine nozzle by means of pneumatic pressure (80-
120bar) and sprayed onto the leather without admixture of air.

(J.H.Sharpouse, 1971)

3) Roller coating technique:

By this application finishing is uniform and homogeneous. The leather is spreads on the feed
table. The finish film fixes on the leather with a strong mechanical action, binding it too firmly to
the base of the leather. The film is continuous and follows the surface of the leather keeping the
same thickness, even if there are significant variations in the leather substance. Deep defects
including cuts can be well filled. Using the appropriate cylinder the range of cover obtainable is
between 4 mgs /sqft to a maximum of 15gms/sqft according to the article obtained. Reverse
coating is used for impregnation, the application of adhesives, basecoat, lacquer hot oils and
waxes (with heated cylinders), foam finishing and any type of padding. Reverse cylinder
engravings are positive, shaped like truncated pyramid with a larger internal base and a smaller
upper face. The product is deposited by the doctor blade in the depressions formed by pyramid
base shoulders from where it is transferred to the leather and spread evenly by the face of the
pyramid. The quantity of product deposited can be controlled by varying the speed of the
cylinder.

Forward Roller Coating principle Reversible roller coating principle

Figure 8 roller coater

The roller coating season is poured onto the leather being fed through the machine through a slot
in the head or by means of an overflow system. The unspent float flows back into the supply tank
and is continuously recirculated. To ensure an even flow of the curtain it is important that the
float be free from foam bubbles and possess adequate viscosity so that it does not break off
abruptly due to air whirls or trapped air. For aqueous floats the average viscosity is 17-25 DIN
seconds (measured with the DIN flow cup no. 4). The required quantity of float is regulated by
the belt speed (about 30-40 m per minute) and the height of fall (about 20-25 cm). Furthermore,
the leathers should be placed onto the belt free of creases to avoid so called shadows. In view of
the increased thickness of coat thorough drying should be ensured.

The drying section must not be too short and the drying temperature not too high. As the
polyurethane lacquer coats are very thick and need more time for complete drying it should be
ensured that drying takes place in an absolutely dust-free environment[ CITATION Liu01 \l 8201 ].

2.7.4 Gap analysis


Before this project the preparation of the finishing film uses impregnation coat for finishing of
plain box leather when the film is applied happen high chemical consumption. Therefore the
research has made studies on the high consumption of chemicals in impregnation step and
change the recipe and avoid the wastage of chemicals.

2.8 Methodology

2.8.1 Data collection method

Primary data collection method

Interview: Done with the company adviser, quality checker, operator labor and supervisor.

Observation:-in this project direct observation is used as asses the techniques used
documentation, production process and also observe how to control the parameters. The
researcher was collected data by observing the cause of the problems in finishing.

Literature survey

Used document

 To refer the document by copping and take soft copy of all necessary to work for my
documentation.

Text book

 To gather information I also use different text books which are available in hard copy
and soft copy.
 manuals, checklists, and Company written documents
 Reports of different time and different types of finishing department

Hand out

 To collect data the researcher refer leather concerning handouts


Internet
 Downloading when I need to information about the cause of cracking, peeling and
sticking and how prevent and how to reduce in leather industry.

2.9 Data presentation and analysis

2.9.1 Data presentation


Data presentation impregnation coat of hide upper cg plain box in Sheba Leather
Company

This determines total amount of chemicals and man power used in finishing of hide upper
cg plain box especially at impregnation coat.

Date Process Piece or Labor and Chemical used


amount utility required
15/02/2013 Impregnation or Engineer Amallon E.IP
sealing coat Operator Saracryl 5291
water
16/02/2013 Impregnation or Engineer Amallon E.IP
sealing coat Operator Saracryl 5291
water
17/02/2013 Impregnation or Engineer Amallon E.IP
sealing coat Operator Saracryl 5291
water

The table shows the total consumption of chemical and man power for 3 days during
finishing step of sealing coat. The researcher wants to show the impregnation coat is not
necessarily step to the finishing of hide upper cg plain box which results high wastage of
chemicals, reduce lead time and required extra man power.
2.9.1 Cost analysis

The company mostly impregnation coat use one auto spray machine for different upper leather
article per month. The company lose more amount of chemicals at impregnation coat in finishing
process of hide upper cg plain box.

Man power

At finishing process of impregnation coat there are some workers

1 engineers

12 0perators

Total birr consumed by one engineer is calculated as:-6000=30dyes

x=?

5600/30=200 per day

For 30 dyes 200 *30=600birr per month

Total birr by 12 operators per dye is calculated as

1800 birr month to one operators

1800/30=60 per dye then 12*60=720birr per month to one operators.

For 12 operators 30*720=2160birr for one month.

Total birr lose for man power 2160+6000=8160

Total cost of man power per month is equal to 8160 birr

Electric power

The auto spray machine is work by motors, these motors used 300watt consumed
These motors consumed 900 watt electric power consumed per month is

1watt=60cent

900 watt=?

900watt*60/100=540 birr is lose for electric power.

Cost of impregnation coat hide upper cg plain box chemicals

Chemicals % Amount in Kg Cost per Kg Total cost of


impregnation(birr)
Amallon E.IP 2 20 40 800
Saracryl 5291 4 30 50 1500
.

Total cost consumed by one month for impregnation coat is equal to 2300*30=69000

The company lose per month is equal to Chemical cost + labor cost+ electric power

=69000+8160+540

=77700 birr per month And also 77700*12=932400 birr per year Therefore Sheba leather
company lose 932400birr per year because of impregnation coat.

2.9.3 Method

To reduce or avoid the chemical consumption of finished leather (hide upper cg plain box
leather) by avoiding impregnation coat. And change the recipe of film formulation and
application based on the properties of chemicals which are used on the solution film
1 identifying problem

2 checking the recipe formulation

3 studying the recipe chemical property

4 avoiding of some chemicals which used in impregnation coat

5 new recipe formulation

Conventional recipe of the company

Process Chemical Parts Total Kg used Process


name application
Impregnation coat Water 500 Buffing with 240
twice 1x roller
Amallon E.IP 300 20
coat
Saracryl 5291 400 30
(25gm/ft^2)leave
overnight
vacuum 65
degree
centigrade buff
with paper
Dye wash Water 100

Sarpen 821 150


Base coat Water 250 Check

Sarkol k 200 viscosity=18-20

black 300 2x roller coat


Sarfill 8537 100 =8gm/ft^2

Eukesolor 350
black ER 11g
Saracryl 5060 100

Corial ultra 25
soft NT
Compound 50
821
Sarpen 821 200
Top coat Water 300

Hiac 07 600

New recipe of the researcher or Finishing of hide upper cg plain box without impregnation coat

Process Chemical name Parts Total Kg used Process


application
Dye wash Water 900 Spray 1x
Sarpen 821 100
Base coat Water Xx Check=18-20
Sarkol k black 200 minute
300 2x roller
Sarfill 8537 120 coat(8gm/ft^2)

Eukesolor black 25
ER 11g
Saracryl 5060 300

Corial ultra soft 200


NT
Compound 821 150

Sarpen 821 20
Top coa Water 370 2x spray plate
hair cell at 70
Hiac 07 630
degree
centigrade

2.10 Result and Discussion

There is a consumption of 6000 birr per month

Consumed by 1 engineer, consumption of 2160 birr per day consumed by 12 operators,


consumption of 540 birr per month consumed by electric power and consumption of 69000 birr
per month consumed by chemicals.

As a result, the company had lost 77700 ETB Per a month. The Problem resulted from use un
necessary step of impregnation coat during the finishing of hide upper corrected grain plain box
leather formulation.

CONCULUSIONS

At Sheba Leather Company in finishing operation the problems happen during impregnation coat
of hide upper cg plain box due to high consumption of chemicals. This leads the company loses
its profit, need extra man power and reduce lead time. This project solve and avoid chemical
consumption of leather finishing in the production of leather especially hide upper cg plain box
by avoiding impregnation or sealing coat and change the recipe on studying the properties of
chemicals which are used in finishing film formulation.

Recommendation

The aim of Sheba Leather Company is to play a leading role in the domestic and export market.

So, to achieve its goal the company must increase the profit by using balance chemical wastage,
short period of time and less man power
. This could be achieved by the following circumstances.

 There is high percent wastage of chemicals due to impregnation step so to minimize this
by leave the step of sealing coat in finishing process of hide upper cg plain box leather.
 The company should motivate the workers either by increasing their monthly salary or by
giving some incitation.
 This project can also reduce the amount of chemical wastage, reduce man power, reduce
operations, and increase lead time during finishing process of hide upper plain box
leather at sealing or impregnation step. So the researcher recommends the company to
apply this project to get a profit.

CHAPTER THREE

3. Overall benefit of the internship

The objective of internship program is to enhance students exercise theoretically acquired


knowledge in to practice and develop practical skills which intern enable them lead their life
successfully in the existing world, plays great role in the development of nation economy as a
citizen, up grading theoretical knowledge, improving interpersonal communication and
relationship, improving team work, understanding work ethics relative to issues, improving
leadership and entrepreneurship.

3.1 Benefits gained in terms of improving practical skill

 Involvement in workshop activities such as machine operation


 Know the new coming technologies such as sewing machine, weaving and finishing and
function of each section.

Problem solving approaches and procedures in solving practical problems likespin


processing.

Control mechanisms used.

 Practice how to install the layout of different machines.

3.2 Benefits gained in terms of up grading theoretical knowledge


There are different courses that I have learnt before joining an intern ship and these

Courses are help for practical performing, among these:

 Developing theoretical knowledge on the type of finished leather, and their effect on the
manufactured product practically.
 Acquiring knowledge of varies designs, from different types of products produced using
different Principle of designing.
 Developing the basic process of production departments.
 Know handling the raw material is the basic criteria for the products produced.

3.3 Benefits in terms of interpersonal communication skill

The researcher meets different persons that have worked on their work place/position.These
include administration, plant manager, company owners, shift leaders, chiefs of each department
and operators. I learnt a lot from them. For instance, how to approach with employees, the way
of asking questions which aren’t precisely understood during observation, understanding their
diplomatic/technical words relative to scientific words. Communicating and discussing with
workers/employers/and any other person are very important in order to conduct this research
peacefully effectively in the company.

3.4 Benefits gained in terms of improving team playing skill

The role of team playing is the basic one for production process of the company in order to
produce the expected product. Having good team playing work in the company can lead to
increase production and productivity of the company as well as

Improve good quality of production. Team playing skill is concerned with taking

Responsibilities in group and role of individual as group member. This skill helps to

Solve problems occurred in the factory easily and in a group member accepting group

member’s idea and the way important role.

3.5 Benefits gained in terms of improving leadership

From the working condition in the factory the following effect of leader in doing tasks
is observed.

How workers initiation towards work can be increased Organizing group member.

Way of ordering peoples and the value of giving responsibility for others and

Taking responsibility.

Way of assembling workers and allocating for different tasks.

Solving the problems faced and handling the employees

3.6 Benefits gained in terms of understanding about Work ethics and related issues

 Punctuality
 The operators must wear a suitable working clothes
 Hard worker ability
 Loyalty for work and each other
 Acceptance among workers to one another and boss
 . Giving emphases to one’s own duty

3.7 Benefits gained in terms of entrepreneurship skill

It enables me Know varies environmental conditions of the factory and types oftechnologies
used, Identify products required in the market, and ways of processingleather in to varies items.
On the problem

 Solving to decrease the idle time


 Job creativeness
 Performing my task with plane

Establishment of business centers by own way

basf. (2007). pocket for leathertechnologist (4 th ed). Germany: badisch aniline -und soda fabric.
bulgaria, s. (2003). identification of surface defects. georgia,L.K: international conference on computer
system and technologies.

covington, a. (2009). tanning chemistry ;the science of leather. cambrige uk: rsc publishing.

covington, a. (2009). tanning chemisty;the science of leather. cambrige,uk: rsc publishing.

dutta.s. (2008). an introduction to principle ofleather manufacturing (4 th ed). india: indian leather
association.

Liu.c. (2001). effect of vaccum drying on mechanical properties of leather. jalca: jalca.

n.r, f. (2012). tannery solid waste to treat toxic liquid waste. a new holestic paradigm,environmental
enginnering science, 26(6),363-372.

unido. (2010). future trend inthe world leather and leather products industry and trade. viena: united
nations industrial development organization.

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