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The structural and mechanical properties of the crepe-de-chine fabrics

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Article · December 2018

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International Journal of Mechanical and Production
Engineering Research and Development (IJMPERD)
ISSN(P): 2249-6890; ISSN(E): 2249-8001
Special Issue, Dec 2018, 103-108
© TJPRC Pvt. Ltd.

THE STRUCTURAL AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF THE

CREPE-DE -CHINE FABRICS MATERIAL

PRAMOD RAICHURKAR1, M. RAMACHANDRAN2 & V. SUBRAMANIUM3

1,2
MPSTME, SVKM’s NMIMS, Dhule, Maharashtra, India
3
Director, Jaya Engineering College, Chennai, Tamil Nadu, India
ABSTRACT

The importance of the crepe de chine fabrics with reference to the mechanical properties has been quantified.
32 different samples were generated by using 8 different varieties of yarn and the objective evaluation of the crepe-de-
chine fabrics woven with various levels of twist in the weft yarn has been made using the Kawabata evaluation system.
This study also covers the effect of finishing. Degumming of the grey fabrics on the structural and mechanical
properties of the crepe- de- chine fabrics. Two types of crepe –de-chine fabrics, woven with various levels of twist in the
weft yarn ranging from 240 to 340 turns per cm, were employed for the study. The finished fabric mechanical
properties are entirely dependent on the grey fabric sett used, twist in the weft yarn and the degumming of the grey
fabrics. Hence, ultimately quality requirements of the crepe-de-chine fabrics are controlled by the fabric sett, twist in

Original Article
the weft yarn and degumming that it undergoes. The basic aim of the work is to measure the mechanical and surface
properties and to relate these objective measurements to the quality and performance characteristics of the fabrics.
Although the KES system offers a total of 18 parameters, it has been commonly recognized that there are strong
correlations between a number of parameters and the importance of these parameters varies according to end use.

KEYWORDS: Silk Fibres, Structural Strength & Crepe-de –Chine Fabrics

INTRODUCTION

Crepe de chine fabrics are woven with untwisted warp and highly twisted weft yarn in their raw state along
with the sericin [1]. Yarns with the alternate‘s’ and ‘z’ twist are introduced with the help of box motion on the
power looms. These grey state fabrics are subjected to the degumming process in which the sericin, oils and soaps
present in the yarn are removed. Crinkled lustrous “crep” effect is obtained only upon degumming. Mechanical
properties of the group-1 and group-2 grey and finished crepe-de-chine fabrics woven with various levels of twist
were measured on the KESF system. Table-1 shows that the linear density of the warp and weft yarns has decreased
thereby showing that the yarns have become finer. In respect of medium weight. Crepe-de-chine fabrics, there is a
significant reduction in the linear density of the warp. Fabrics sett shows an increase in warp and weft, the former
being quite significant than the latter; the same trend is being noticed in the group-2 samples. The reasons for this
increase are the consolidation effects during finishing. In this section, 18 KESF parameters obtained on the crepe-
de –chine fabrics woven with various levels of twist have been analysed. The discussion is mainly centred on the
effect of finishing i.e. degumming.

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104 Pramod Raichurkar, M. Ramachandran & V. Subramanium

Table 1: Geometrical Properties of the Fabric upon Finishing

Yarn Linear
Sl. Crepe-de-chine Threads per cm
Density(d.tex)
No Fabric Samples
Warp Weft Warp Weft
1 A1 16.66 33.33 -7 -9.7
2 B1 16.66 32.35 -13.13 -9.7
3 C1 16.66 25.71 -14.54 -9.7
4 D1 16.66 23.30 -16.56 -9.7
5 E1 16.66 25 -18.2 -9.7
6 A2 25 23.70 -5 -2.4
7 B2 25 21.70 -6.6 -2.4
8 C2 25 24.50 -12.7 -2.4
9 D2 25 20.40 -15.5 -2.4
10 E2 25 22.10 -19.36 -2.4

Thickness and Weight

Thickness and weight of the fabric samples show a decrease obviously due to the removal sericin [12]. The
decrease in the fabric weight is not uniform in all the fabrics in each group. This could be attributed to the fact that even
though 25 to 30% weight loss takes place during degumming, the decrease is not reflected in the finished samples because
the consolidation of the warp sett compensated for the weight loss due to the sericin (table 2, 3). Hence, ultimate weight per
unit area of the finished fabric is dependent on the fabric sett and the degree of twist in the weft yarn and degumming loss
etc. thus crepe effect is a direct function of twist in the weft yarn, fabric sett upon finishing and finishing treatment. All
these parameters are interrelated. An increase in weight is mainly due to the consolidation effect in which the fabric sett
after degumming due to relaxation shrinkage increases due to the reduced inter yarn pressure [13]. This is mainly due to the
large reduction of bending (B), and shear (G) properties after degumming.

Table 2: Thickness and Weight of Lab Woven Grey & Finished Group1 Silk Fabrics
Group 1
Twist per cm 250 270 290 310 330
G F G F G F G F G F
Thickness To (mm) 0.30 .21 .30 .26 .31 .27 0.31 .30 .35 .31
Thickness Tm (mm) .20 .16 .24 .18 .26 .21 0.28 .24 .29 .25
Weight(mg/cm2) 5.53 4.44 5.72 4.82 5.78 4.9 5.73 5.73 5.89 6.1

Table 3: Thickness and Weight of Lab Woven Grey & Finished Group 2 Silk Fabrics
Group 2
Twist per cm 250 270 290 310 330
G F G F G F G F G F
Thickness To (mm) .33 .27 .35 .27 .32 .27 .35 .27 .33 .27
Thickness Tm (mm) .23 .17 .25 .18 .25 .19 .24 .20 .25 .20
Weight(mg/cm2) 8.31 6.24 8.2 6.37 8.3 6.54 8.38 6.75 8.44 6.9

RESULTS & DISCUSSIONS

All the parameters considered in the analysis of variance show a significant effect at both 5% and 1% levels of
significance (table 4, 5). The factor which decides the tensile elongation of the fabrics is a twist which shows significant
effect on EMT-1, EMT-2, WT-1, WT-2, RT-1 and RT-2. It is significant at both 5% and 1% levels. Its effect on LT is
significant only at the 5 % level (table 9). However, considering groups 1 and groups 2 fabrics, significant effect at both 5%

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The Structural and Mechanical Properties of the 105
Crepe-De -Chine Fabrics Material

and 1% levels is noticed. The weft way tensile energy (wt-2) increases in both group1 and group2 fabrics, thereby showing
the corresponding decrease in the weft way tensile resilience (RT-2) in both types of the fabrics. The difference is highly
significant at 5% and 1% levels in both groups of fabrics. Thus, these fabrics are least elastic in weft way tensile
deformation. Twist has a significant effect on the shear rigidity (G) at the 5 % level. Its effect on the hysteresis of shear
force (2HG) and (2HG5), is highly significant at both 5% and 1% levels. The difference in the shear rigidity (G), and
hysteresis of shear 2HG, and 2HG5 in both warp and weft direction is significant at 5% and 1% levels. The difference of
the shear 2HG5 is highly significant; this is expected in view of the warp sett and linear density varying in both group of
fabrics. The difference of the effect of twist on each of B and 2HB of fabric is highly significant at 5% and 1% levels.
These may be attributed to the difference in the denier and warp sett used in the two groups of fabrics. It is interesting to
note that differences observed in bending characteristic of these fabrics are found to be marginal in view of the consistent
values obtained variations in the other mechanical properties are rather high, and hence their contribution to handle of these
fabrics can be questioned. Bending hysteresis appears to more important than bending rigidity of the fabrics. Twist has no
significant effect on LC in both group1 and 2. The interaction between the twist and the group of fabric is highly significant
at 5% and 1% levels. Twist has no significant effect on WC of the both groups-1 and group2 fabrics. The difference in WC
of the group -1 and group-2 fabrics is not significant. Twist has no significant effect on RC values of the fabrics is
significant. The interaction between the twist and the group on the RC values is significant both at 5% and 1% levels. Twist
has a significant effect on the coefficient of friction (MIU), mean deviation of friction (MMD) and surface roughness
(SMD) of the fabrics.

Table 4: Analysis of Variance for Mechanical Properties of Crepe Fabrics

Parameters Twist Direction (T)(D) Group (T)(G) (D)(G) (T)(D)(G)
df 4 1 4 1 4 1 4
EMT 43.8 168.3 34.28 72.24 21.48 34.8 18.56
LT 1.38 4.86 3.05 25.31 3.15 20.87 3
WT 46.5 133.94 37.34 26.66 25.21 28.34 14.19
RT 5.9 228.16 2.4 82.34 3.02 4.43 2.87
B 1.42 37.84 3.5 76.13 4.25 120.8 1.25
2HB 2.03 11.1 1.46 220.7 4.37 28.04 1.03
G 2.64 6.75 1.23 1.43 1.04 1.26 1.82
2HG 10.1 28.48 2.05 74 1.16 5.80 1.58
2HG5 7.22 58.13 2.83 85.37 1.02 3.838 1.89
MIU 15.1 422.85 3.37 121.34 6.91 67.07 3.81
MMD 21.6 320.8 25.5 2.82 6.3 4.52 17.52
SMD 3.72 53.86 7.3 28.51 2.24 18.33 1.85
5%level 2.53 4 2.5 4 2.53 4 2.53
1%level 3.65 7.08 3.6 7.08 3.65 7.08 3.65
Error Estimate 60 60 60 60 60 60 60

Table 5: Analysis of Variance for Mechanical Properties of Crepe Fabrics

Parameters Twist Group (T)(D)
df 4 1 4
LC 1.09 15.12 4.39
WC 1.03 1.55 1.10
RC 1.72 5.36 5.97
Thickness 18.83 4.31 15.73
weight 9.43 18.4 10.53
koshi 3.00 1189.5 5.93

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106 Pramod Raichurkar, M. Ramachandran & V. Subramanium

Table 5: Contd.,
numeri 13.49 3.19 7.36
fukurami 6.8 15.73 3.94
Thv 5.25 64.97 3.73
5%level 2.69 4.17 2.69
1%level 4.02 7.08 4.02
Error estimate 30 30 30

The effect is significant in both the groups of fabrics at 5% and 1% level. The difference in the MIU, MMD and
SMD in the warp and weft direction is highly significant. Effect of twist is significant in both warp as well as in the weft
direction in both group1 and 2 fabrics. The interaction between twist direction and group 1 is significant both at 5% and 1%
levels. Twist has a significant effect on the thickness of the fabric. The difference in thickness of the two groups of fabrics
is significant. Similarly, the interaction between twist, and group is significant on the thickness values of the groups of
fabrics considered. All the parameters considered in analysis of variance are significant at 5% and 1% level except the
difference between the groups which is significant only at the 5 % level. Twist has a significant effect on the weight of the
fabric. The difference in weight of the fabrics considered on both groups on the weight of the fabrics is significant [14, 15].
The interaction between twist and the group on the weight of the fabrics is highly significant at 5% and 1% levels.

Table 6: Mean and SD of selected KESF Parameters and

Hand Values of Lab Made Group 2 Samples
Group 1 Samples
KESF
Sl.No Grey (G1G) Finished (G1F)
Data
Mean SD Mean SD
1 WT(N/m) .046 .009 1.05 .36
2 RT (%) 61.47 13.79 52.6 2.6
3 EMT (%) .82 .13 6.99 .203
4 G(N/m) 12.72 1.93 1.44 .05
5 2HG(N/m) 5.41 .51 .082 .03
6 B/Im( 50.10 4.32 4.38 .88
7 2HB 1.17 .009 .038 .005
8 MIU .11 .005 .18 .008
9 SMD 25.86 4.24 16.56 3.68
10 W 5.73 .135 5.2 .69
11 Shinayaksa 3.22 .41 7.25 .23
12 Kishimi 4.93 .47 3.13 .63

Table 7: Mean and SD of Selected KESF Parameters and

Hand Values of Lab Made Group 2 Samples
Group 2 samples
Sl.No KESF Data Grey (G2G) Finished (G2F)
Mean SD Mean SD
1 WT(N/m) .036 .02 .94 .06
2 RT (%) 33.96 8.43 69.1 3.94
3 EMT (%) .77 .053 5.56 .56
4 G(N/m) 19.56 1.60 1.42 .03
5 2HG(N/m) 11.89 1.71 .04 .014
6 B/Im( 76.2 7.68 9.23 .85
7 2HB 1.77 .107 .06 .005
8 MIU .134 .013 1.19 .004
9 SMD 25.21 1.69 15.77 1
10 W 8.33 .09 6.56 .27

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The Structural and Mechanical Properties of the 107
Crepe-De -Chine Fabrics Material

11 Shinayaksa 1.47 .2 6.58 .22

12 Kishimi 2.44 .5 3.72 .244

Table 8: Correlation Between Primary Hand Values of the

Lab Crepe Samples (KN-203/302-W)
Group 1 Light Weight Crepe Samples
Twist Koshi Numeri Fukurami THV
Twist 1 -.667 .641 .655 .579
Koshi 1 -.943 .918 -.863
Numeri 1 .997 -.863
Fukurami 1 .991
THV 1
If r>0.65, 5% level of significance; If r>0.77, 1% level of significance

Group 2 Medium Weight Crepe Samples

Twist Koshi Numeri Fukurami THV
Twist 1 .865 -.239 -.496 -.266
Koshi 1 .865 .698 .862
Numeri 1 .903 .996
Fukurami 1 .934
THV 1
If r>0.65, 5% level of significance; If r>0.77, 1% level of significance

CONCLUSIONS

The relationship between the structural and mechanical properties of a series of grey and finished fabric samples
woven with various levels of twist in the weft yarn has been established using the Kawabata evaluation system (table 6,7).
The extent of the change is dependent on the degumming process, fabric sett, denier of the yarns used, and twist in these
yarns. The density of packing of threads in finished fabric is dependent on the relaxation shrinkage of the warp and weft
yarns during degumming. The extent of relaxation is dependent on the changes in bending and shear properties of the yarns
in the fabrics. Thus, bending and shear properties of the yarns and hence the fabric obtained from these yarns have a
significant role in controlling the fabric handle. Twist in the weft yarn has a positive control over the relaxation shrinkage
and hence on the crepe effect. Thus an optimum level of twist has been fixed for which best crepe effect is obtained. For the
light weight fabrics, the optimum twist in weft yarn is 300 tpcm, which has produced best crepe effect. This fabric has
maximum koshi (4.19), Numeri (6.5), Fukurami (6.19) and Total hand value (THV) (3.2) (table 8). In the case of medium
weight crepe de chine samples, the optimum level of twist has been found to be 280 tpcm. This fabric shows maximum
Koshi (5.12), Numeri (6.18), Fukurami (5.74) and Total Hand Value (THV) (3.52). The fabric hand of medium weight
fabric is superior to that of the light weight crepe de chine samples.

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