Circular Knitting Machine

Circular knitting machine is widely used throughout the knitting industry to produce fabric. This machine can
be built in almost any reasonable diameter and the small diameter of up to five, which are used for wear.
Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter according to
manufactures requirement. This machine can be used either as fabric or for making garments completely
with fancy stitch. Latch needles are commonly employed in all modern circular machines because of their
simple action and also their ability to process more types of yarns. 

Circular knitting machine

BASIC KNITTING ELEMENTS FOR A CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

NEEDLES

The needles are the most important stitch forming elements. They are displaced vertically up and down and
are mounted into the tricks or cuts of the knitting cylinder.

 There are three types of needles namely:

1. Latch needle

2. Spring bearded needle                                                                                                                          

3. Compound needle

We can divide a needle into three main parts:

A. the hook, which takes and retains the thread tube looped;

B. the hook opening and closing device, that allows the hook to alternatively take a new thread and
release    the previous one;

C. a system allowing the needle to move and form the loop

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 1=Butt,2=Butt height,3=Back shank,4=Stem,5=Crimp,6=Groove,7=Cheek,8=Hook,9=Hook
width,10=Latch,11=Rivet 

 Fig: Needle
Sinker

The sinker is the second primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual or a collective
action operating approximately at right angles from the hook side of the needle bed, between adjacent
needles.

Sinkers capable of producing loop fabric are well known in the knitting industry. In such machines the
sinkers generally include a blade having an upper edge which defines a lower knitting level and a nib
having an upper edge which is at an upper knitting level. Long loops are formed at the upper knitting level
of the sinkers with a loop yarn and a base yarn is knitted over the blade. The sinkers may be formed and
their movement controlled to cause either the loop yarn to appear on one side of a fabric and the base yarn
on the other or the loop yarn to appear on both sides.

In the past it has not been possible to producing loop cloth of ideal quality since loops would twist or coil
making it difficult to finish a loop fabric into satisfactory velor. Furthermore loops which were supposed to
appear on the front of a fabric would sometimes appear on the other side. The back of loop cloth was
therefore apt to have objectionable loose protruding loops and double tuck stitches.

1=Butt,2=Butt breadth,3=Height of shank,4=Buldge,5=Neb,6=Length of neb,7=Throat angle,8=Sinker

platform height,9=Breadth of lower shank,10=Clearance,11=Throat

  Fig: sinker.

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Sinkers Operation

1. The held loop is positioned in the throat of the sinker when the sinker moves forward and the needle
moves upward for clearing. The held loop is held by the throat and hence its movement along the needle is
restricted.

2. The sinker remains at its forward position when the needle attains its clearing position.

3. The sinker retracts when the needle comes down after feeding. At this stage, due to sinkers retraction,
fabric or held loop is eased out. Also the sinker belly supported the fabric or held loop and hence its
movements along the needle is prevented.

4. Sinker remains in backward position and the needle descends to its lowest position drawing the new loop
through the old one.

5. Before the needle ascends, the sinker moves forward to push the knitted fabric a little and to hold the old
loop away from the head of the needle and to be in a position to control the fabric.

Jack

In circular knitting machines of the rotatable cylinder type a well know means for selectively actuating the
knitting instrumentalist is that of a pattern controlled slider jack system. Engaged the known type of slider
jack system it is common practice to transmit the dictates of the pattern controlled slider jack directly to a
needle actuating jack. Circular knitting machines which utilize a slider jack system must have a cylinder of
sufficient length to accommodate the circular series of needle, needle actuating jacks and slider jacks
which are slid ably mounted in the slots formed on the periphery of said cylinder. The slider jack must be
raised a sufficient distance so as to raise the needle actuating jack or intermediate jack to a level where its
operating butt will be engaged by a cam member and raise said jack to knitting height which in turn will
raise its respective needle to the required height to perform its intended function.

 Dial

Dial is the upper steel needle bed used in double knit machines. Into the grooves of the dial, the needles
are mounted horizontally and are allowed to move radically in and out by their dial cams. The number of
grooves per unit space conforms to the cylinder gauge in most of the cases.

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 Fig: dial
CYLINDER

The cylinder is a steel circular bed having grooves/tricks/cuts on its outer periphery into which the needles
are mounted. With reference to the tricks, the needles move vertically up and down by their butt being in
contact with the cam track. The number of tricks per inch i.e., number of needles per inch decides the
gauge of the machine. Machines are built as low as 4 NPI to as high as 32 NPI. Based on the machine
gauge, the fineness of the yarn to be knitted can be varied. The diameter of the cylinder also varied based
on the type and width of the fabric and a maximum of 75 cm diameter machines are available.

Fig: Cylinder

CAMS

The knitting cams are hardened steels and they are the assembly of different cam plates so that a track for
butt can be arranged. Each needle movement is obtained by means of cams acting on the needle butts.

The upward movement of the needle is obtained by the rising cams or clearing cams. The rising cam
places the needle at a certain level as it approaches the yarn area. Cams controlling the downward
movement of the needles are called stitch cams.

The stitch cam draws the needle down below the knitting level, thereby drawing a loop formed by the fed
yarn through the loop already on the needle. The lowest point to which the needle is drawn by the stitch
cam is called the "cast-off" position. They are screwed to the cylindrical cam ring and are adjustable in
vertical direction. If the stitch cam is raised, then shorter loop is drawn below the sinker level and a tighter

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fabric will result. With lowering of stitch cam, a reverse result is obtained. Guard cams keep the needle
butts in their race-way.

Running cams or the needle butts at a low level until they meet the next rising cam

Fig: Cams
 FEEDERS/STRIPPERS

Feeders are the yarn guides placed close to the needles to the full circumference of the knitting zone. The
feeders feed the yarn into the needle hooks and control the needle latches in their open position while the
needle attain their clearing position. They consist of a yarn guiding hole and a bevel edge to guard the
latches of the approaching needles. They are slightly curved to the corresponding curvature of the needle
bed. Feeders may have two holes also for the purpose of plating.

Yarn feeders can be divided into “positive” or “negative” types depending on the possibility of controlling the
yarn feeding speed and uniformity.

The feeder brackets can be adjusted to set their distance from the needle and to ensure yarn feed into
needle hooks. Stripers are the feeders designed to deliver two or more yarns individually to the same feed.
They can be considered as moving guide replacing the holes of fixed guides. In a two color stripe, two
different colored yarns are supplied by two stripper fingers and their engagement is controlled by an
endless control chain which governs the guide change at the appropriate feeds. At each revolution, a
counter may select the movement of all the striper chains. The stripes are used on both single and double
bed machines.

 Important Parts of Circular Knitting Machine:

Fig: Feeders/Stripers Creel: Creel is a part of a knitting machine. Hear yarn package are store and ready
to feed in the machine.

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 VDQ Pulley: It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the quality of the product.
Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves
towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction
G.S.M will increase. 

Photo: Creel.

Photo: VDQ Pulley.

Pulley Belt: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.

Photo: Pulley Belt.

Brush: Its clean the pulley belt. 

Photo: Brush.
Tension Disk: It confronts the tension of the supply yarn.

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 Photo: Tension Disk.
Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion: It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine instantly when a
yarn is break.

Photo: Inlet and Outlet Stop Motion.

Yarn Guide: Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder.

Photo: Yarn Guide.

MPF Wheel: Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel.

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 Photo: MPF Wheel.
MPF: It is Mamenger positive feed. It is also an important part of the machine. It’s give positive feed to the
machine.

Photo: MPF.
Feeder Ring: It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together

Photo: Feeder Ring.

Disk Drum: Use in jacquard machine to produce various types of design.

Photo: Disk Drum.

Pattern Wheel: Pattern Wheel use in Pai Lung and Auto Stripe machine because of that that help to
produce various types of design and stripe.

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 Photo: Pattern Wheel.
Feeder: Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine.

Photo: Feeder.
Needle Track: Where all Needles is placed together in a decent design.

Photo: Needle Track.

Needle: It is a principal element of the knitting machine. Its help the yarn to create a loop. And by this way
fabric are produce. Prior to yarn feeding the needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook, and
received the new loop above it on needle stem. The new loop is then enclosed in the needle hook as the
needle starts to descend.

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 Photo: Different Types of Needle.
Sinker: It is most important element of the machine. Its help to loop forming, knocking over and holding
down the loop.

Photo: Sinker.
Sinker Ring: Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are pleased together

Photo: Sinker Ring.

Cam Box: Where the cam are set horizontally.

Photo: Cam Box.

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Cam: Cam is device s which converts the rotary machine drive in to a suitable reciprocating action for the
needles and other elements.

Photo: Cam.
Lycra Attachment Device: Lycra is placed hear. And feeding to the machine

Photo: Lycra Attachment Device.

Lycra Stop Motion: It is one kind of stop motion to stop the machine when the Lycra is break.

Photo: Lycra Stop Motion.

Cylinder: Needle track are situated hear.

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 Photo: Cylinder.
Cylinder Balancer: It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment.

Photo: Cylinder Balancer.

Uniwave Lubrication: The Uniwave lubricator provides uniform lubrication to needles, cam tracks, lifters and
other knitting machine components. The patented nozzle construction separates the air-oil mixture into air
and droplets of oil.

Photo: Uniwave Lubrication System.

Adjustable Fan: This part removes lint, hairy fibre from yarn and others. To clean the dust by air flow.

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 Photo: Adjustable Fan.
Expander: To control the width of the knitted fabric. No distortion of the knitting courses. Even take down
tension in the knitting machine. As a result, an even fabric structure is achieved over the entire fabric width.
The deformation of the knitted fabric goods can be reduced.

Photo: Expander.
Needle Detector: This part detect the any type of faults of needles

Photo: Needle Detector.

Air Gun Nozzle: To feed the yarn; sometimes it is used for cleaning purpose.

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 Photo: Air Gun Nozzle.
Yarn Count

Count is a numerical value, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn and also indicate the
relationship between length and weight (the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass) of that yarn. Therefore,
the concept of yarn count has been introduced which specifies a certain ratio of length to weight.

The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear density or count. There are a number of
systems and units for expressing yarn fineness. But they are classified as follows.

Types of Yarn Count

1. Direct Count System 

2. Indirect Count System

1. Direct Count System:

The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per unit length is the yarn count! The
common features of aII direct count systems are the length of yarn is fixed and the weight of yarn varies
according to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate the yarn count:

N= (W×l) / L

Where, 
N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample 

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In brief, definition of the above Systems is as follows

1. Tex system ..........................NO. of grams per 1000 meters

2. Denier .................................No. of Grams per 9000 meters
3. Deci Tex ..............................No. of grams per 10,000 metres
4. Millitex ................................No. of milligrams per 1000 metres
5. Kilotex................................No. of kilograms per 1000 metres.
6. Jute count........................No. of lb per 14,400 yds

The Tex of a yarn indicates the weight in grammes of 1000 metres yarn. So that 40Tex means 1000 meters
of yarn weigh 40gm.

From above discussion it is concluded that, higher the yarn number(count) coarser the yarn and lower the
number finer the yarn.

2. Indirect Count System:

The length of a fixed weight of yarn is measured. The length per unit weight is the yarn count. The common
features of all indirect count systems are the weight of yarn is fixed and the Length of yarn varies according
to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate they are count:

N = (L×w) / W×l

Where, 
N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample
w = Unit of weight of the sample. 

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1. Ne: No of 840 yards yarn weighing in One pound

2. Nm: No of one kilometer yarn weighing in One Kilogram

The Ne indicate show many hanks of 840 yards length weigh one English pound. So that 32 Ne Means 32
hanks of 840yards i.e.32x840 yards length weigh one pound.

For the determination of the count of yarn, it is necessary to determine the weight of a known length of the
yarn. For taking out known lengths of yarns, a wrap-reel is used. The length of yarn reeled off depends
upon the count system used. One of the most important requirements for a spinner is to maintain the
average count and count variation within control.

In Details:
English system: It is defined as the number of hanks 840 yds per pound is called yarn count.
Length (yds) 1 pound
English cotton count, N =……………… X …………………
840 yds Weight (Pound)
Metric system: It is defined as the number of hank (1000m) per kg.
Length (m) 1 kg
Metric count =………………… X …………………….
1000m Weight (kg)
Worsted system: It is defined as the number of hanks (540yds) per pound.
Length (yds) 1 Pound
Worsted count =…………………… X …………………
560 (yds) Weight (Pound)

Tex system or, Lea count: It is defined as the weight in grams of 1000m is called tex count.

Weight (gm) 1000m

Tex count =……………… X ……………
1 gm Length (m)
Denier: The number or, count in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m.
Weight (gm) 9000m
Denier count =……………… X ………….
1 gm Length
Pounds per spindle (Jute system): Count in the pound per spindle system is the weight in pounds of 14400
yards of yarn.

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 Weight (Pound) 14400 (yds)
Pound per spindle =………………. X …………….....
1 Pound Length (yds)
Yarn Count Variation

The term count variation is generally used to express variation in the weight of a lea and this is expressed
as C.V. %. The number of samples and the length being considered for count checking affects this. While
assessing count variation, it is very important to test adequate number of leas. After reeling the appropriate
length of yarn, the yarn is conditioned in the standard atmosphere for testing before its weight is
determined.

Grams per Square Meter / GSM of Fabric

In the International System of Units, surface density is measured in kilograms per square meter. For
fabrics, grams per square meter (GSM) are a more practical unit of measure. We can calculate the GSM of
a fabric by the following formulae:

Using Denier, GSM = ((Denier x EPI x 39.37)/9000 + (Denier x PPI x 39.37)/9000))

Using English cotton count, GSM = ((5315/Nec X EPI x 39.37)/9000 + (5315/Nec x PPI x
39.37)/9000))

Process technique to check the above formulae: 1. Weave 1 meter greige fabric. Cut the fabric from the
loom. Measure GSM and find the denier/dtex/tex/count you have used.

Process technique to achieve zero defect in dipped or coated fabric. Dipping and coating treatment
required high temperatures. To take the greige fabric before dipping, follow the steps 1. Weave 1 meter
greige fabric. Cut the fabric from the loom. Measure GSM and find the denier/dtex/tex/count. 2. Put the
fabric for required HAS (Hot air shrinkage) testing. 3. Put the fabric in inspection table and observe it. If all
the fabric yarn/cords are uniform in length proceed for weaving the required fabric.

The above techniques suggest that the yarn and fabric tensile testing standards should be globally updated
to 100 cm.

Production calculation Single Jersey

No of feeder * m/c RPM * 60 * m/c efficiency

Length M/h=
Feeder / course * course density * 100

S * N * 60 * N
=
1 * MR/CM * 100
M/c dia * 3.14 * m/c gauge
B in M =
Wales density * 100

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 Pro in m/h * fabric width * GSM
Production Kg/ h =
1000

Example 1: For Single Jersey

1. D= 30” dia
2. E= 28
3. S= 96
4. N= 35
5. N= .85
6. Fabric structure-plain single Jersey
7. MR/Cm= 18
8. MS/cm= 13
9. GSM= 125 g/m2

96 * 35 * 60 * 0.85
L= =95.2 m/h
1 * 18 * 100

30 * 3.14 * 28
B= = 2.03 m
13 * 100
95.2 * 2.03 * 125
Production = = 24.2 kg/ h
1000
Popular Design

x x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x x

2x2 Rib 6x3 Rib

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Some special Design

X x x x
X X x x x
X x x x
X X x x x
Lock knit La-coste Cross Tuck

x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x

4x4 Basket purl 2x2 Interlock

Gauge: Gauge means number of needle per inch.

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