10 Common HAND Tool Mistakes

We have all done it, used a flathead screwdriver as a pry bar or a wrench as a hammer
in times of need, but these common mistakes can lead to disaster not only for the tool,
but also for the parts you are working on. As the saying goes, there is a proper tool for
every job, using the right tool makes the job faster and easier most of the time. To help
you avoid these common mistakes, we have put together a list of the 10 most common
tool mistakes along with the right tool do the job.

SCREWDRIVER PRY BAR

The most commonly misused tool is the screwdriver. You likely have a number of them
in your tool box, and several others around the house. They are versatile and handy to
have, but they are also designed for one purpose: installing and removing screws. That
is it. Using a screwdriver as a pry bar is simply asking for trouble. Not only are you
nearly guaranteed to bend the shank, rendering it nearly useless for its intended
purpose, but it could break, sending the broken pieces into your hand, or into whatever
you are working on. Don’t wreck your hand because you were too lazy to get up a grab
the pry bar you should already have in your tool box. A small iron pry bar costs just a
few bucks, use it.
 Wh
y would you treat your tools in such a way that could damage them? Spinning the flexplate on an
engine is best accomplished with an actual pry bar.

WRONG SIZED SCREWDRIVER

Did you know that there are different sizes of Phillips and flat head screwdrivers? While
many folks know this, there are just as many that don’t realize how important this really
is. The most common Phillips size is the #2, but they go all the way down to size
#0 (even smaller for jeweler sizes), up to size #4, which is large by huge. The largest
size was commonly used for attaching door hinges and things like that on pre 1960s
cars, it is much less common these days, but #1-3 sizes are in everything. A #3 screw
driver will not fit a #2 screw, but a #2 driver will fit in a #3 screw. The problem is that
there is not enough contact and you will strip the head. This goes for the smaller
versions as well. Make sure the screwdriver fits snug into the head before turning.
Technique is important too, make sure you apply pressure on the screw head while
turning.

Flathead screwdrivers should be snug and fully seat into the slot. Too narrow will be
strip, too thick will do the same.
 Philli
ps head screwdrivers are made in specific sizes to match the fastener. From the top- 3, 2, and 1.
If the end of the tip is chewed up, replace it.

PLIERS AND A SCREWDRIVER FOR MORE TORQUE

The torque applied to a screwdriver is a direct relation to the size of the handle. A
stubby screwdriver does not allow for the same torque application as a longer thicker-
handled driver. When needing more torque, DIYers may grab a pair of pliers (locking or
otherwise) to apply more torque to the tool. This does several things- it damages the
handle, but more importantly, it increases the risk of introducing side pressure to the
screw, which will lead to stripping the head. Instead, use a longer driver with a bigger
handle. There are some screwdrivers that have a hex on the shank for a wrench, this is
OK, because the tool is designed for it. If you need more torque, use an impact driver
to get the job done. There are both cordless and manual impact tools for screwdrivers.
The cordless one are just like what you are thinking- a drill shaped tool, but the manual
impact tools are different. You hold the tool with the bit in the screw and hit the back
side with a hammer, this operated the internal ratcheting mechanism that applies the
force. These are really handy for the #3 and #4 Phillips screw sizes.
 This
one is tricky, as sometimes you need to put more torque on a screwdriver. You need a different
tool, not this bad idea.

 
 A
manual impact driver is the better solution. Not only does it save your screwdriver, but also can
keep the head from stripping out.

 
 For
comparison, the impact tip shown here is a #4 phillips compared to a #2 on the right.

SCREWDRIVER PUNCH

OK, we get it, you need to drive that bolt out of the hole and you have a screwdriver
next to you, but the punch set in 15 feet away. Go ahead, grab the screwdriver and
give it a whack. Maybe the bolt comes out, maybe you break the tip of the screwdriver
in the hole and now you have two problems. All because you were in a hurry. We have
all done it, but we know better. Don’t take the risk, use the right punch (check out our
guide to punches and chisels here) for the job and not the screwdriver. A mushed tip
on a screwdriver is useless.

SCREWDRIVER CHISEL

This is probably the worst possible option for a chisel. A flat blade screwdriver is neither
sharp enough, hard enough, nor is it shaped correctly for use as a chisel. Just don’t do
it, OK? This is how eyes get put out. A shattering screwdriver send shrapnel all over the
place, why take the risk when it will not work in the first place?

NON-HAMMER HAMMER

A light tap on a bolt with a ratchet to push it in or out of a hole is, but anything beyond
that is just silly. First, wrenches, screwdrivers, and ratchets all have rounded edges and
are too light to be used for hammer. A glancing blow is far more dangerous than you
may think. Busted fingers, dented sheet metal, and and angry you are not good things.
A hammer is designed to take the abuse of hitting things, all those other tools are not.
Use a hammer, not a wrench.

PLIERS AS A WRENCH

If you like rounded nuts and bolts that are nearly impossible to remove, then the plier
wrench is for you! There is only one time when pliers are OK to use on a bolt or nut,
and that is when it is already stripped and you are using locking pliers. Regular pliers
are never acceptable substitutes for a proper wrench of the correct size, and no, you
should use a metric wrench on an SAE bolt or vice versa.

Unless you are on the side of the road, don’t do this. You will have to find a replacement bolt
and maybe some replacement wits, as yours will be fried by the time you get the bolt removed.

WRENCH AS A TUBING BENDER

This is one of those weird ones. A common trick to bending tubing is to use two
wrenches against each other to bend hard lines. And while it may get you home, it will
also certainly put a kink in the line that you have to replace later on. There are so many
inexpensive tubing benders available that you should never resort to this type of
tomfoolery. Even if you only bend a hard line once, get the right tool, you will be happy
you did.

CHEATER WRENCH

Another on the list of common tool mistakes is to use a box-end wrench on a ratchet or
another wrench to gain leverage on a stubborn bolt. Using leverage is a not a bad
thing, but a wrench will slip and leave you with busted knuckles and you still didn’t get
the bolt loosened. Instead, use a proper breaker bar or a piece of thick-wall pipe to give
you that extra leverage you need.
 If you want a
recipe for busted knuckles, this is it. Just don’t.

 
 Inst
ead of that absurd wrench on wrench action, use a crowfoot and a ratchet or breaker bar to get
the job done.

TORQUE WRENCH BREAKER BAR

Many torque wrenches have been destroyed because they were used as a breaker bar.
Sure, they are long and heavy duty, but the torque measuring components are not
designed to operate backwards, and applying torque on then will at the very least
knock them out of calibration, and completely destroy them in the worst. Use a proper
breaker bar without any ratcheting mechanism instead.

The bottom line is this – if you are on the side of the road and trying to get your vehicle
repaired, don’t be so concerned with damaging a tool, getting on the road is more
important, and your tool selection is probably limited. If you are in your garage,
however, there is no reason to use the wrong tool for the job at hand. Take the time to
get the tool  you need to get the job done right.