“Dyeing of textiles with Natural dye extracted from

leaves of eucalyptus erythrocorys”

A dissertation submitted in the partial fulfillment

of the requirement for the award of

MASTER OF TECHNOLOGY

In

FASHION TECHNOLOGY

(FUNCTIONAL GARMENTS)

By

Rimika

Roll No.-16152001

Under the Guidance of

Professor Lalit Jajpura

Department of Fashion Technology B.P.S Mahila Vishawavidyalya, Khanpur Kalan,

Sonepat, Haryana

CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that the thesis entitled “Dyeing of textiles with Natural dye extracted from
eucalyptus erythrocorys” which is being submitted by Ms. Rimika to the Department of Fashion
Technology, BPSMV, Khanpur Kalan, Sonepat, for the award of Master of Technology in Fashion is
a record of bonafied research work carried out by her under my guidance and has fulfilled the
requirements for the submission of thesis, which is to my knowledge has reached requisite standard.

To the best of my knowledge, the results embodied in this project have not been submitted in part or
full to other University or Institute for the award of any degree or diploma. I understand that if any
malpractices if found in future in my dissertation, I will be fully responsible for it.

Signature of the supervisor

(Professor Lalit Jajpura)
Department of Fashion Technology
B.P.S. Mahila Vishawavidyalya, Khanpur Kalan, Sonepat

Date:
Place: Sonepat

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 DECLARATION

I declare that the dissertation entitled “Dyeing of textiles with Natural dye extracted from
eucalyptus erythrocorys being submitted by me, Rimika, Roll No. 16152001, to the Department of
Fashion Technology, B.P.S. Mahila Vishawavidyalya, Khanpur Kalan, Sonepat, Haryana (India), in
partial fulfillment of the requirements for the award of the degree of Master of Technology in
Fashion Technology (Functional Garments), is original work of mine and have not violated copy
rights law while writing thesis.

To the best of my knowledge, the results embodied in this project have not been submitted in part or
full to other University or Institute for the award of any degree or diploma. I understand that if any
malpractices found in future in my dissertation, I will be fully responsible for it.

Date: 2018 (rimika)

Place: Khanpur Kalan, Sonipat

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

It is indeed a great pleasure and moment of satisfaction for me to express my sense of deep gratitude
towards Professor S.P. Bansal, Vice Chancellor, B.P.S.M.V., Khanpur Kalan, Sonipat (Haryana) for
providing the opportunity and the facilities extended to me during the course of this research work.

I can hardly express my sincere thanks and gratitude enough to my esteemed guide Professor Lalit
Jajpura (Chairperson, Fashion Technology Department, B.P.S.M.V. Khanpur Kalan, Sonipat,
Haryana), for his immense support for the project.
Sir, you have been a great support for me, enlightening my path of education and knowledge. Thanks
for your unparalleled and excellent guidance, constructive criticism and continuous encouragement
throughout the period of research.

I wish to express my deep gratitude and indebtedness to Mr. Harinder Pal Arora and Mr. Ashish
Hooda (Assistant Professors, B.P.S.M.V.) for offering valuable suggestions for the successful
completion of the present study.

Sincere thanks to Mrs. Neetu Rani (Technical Assistant & Research scholar, PhD, B.P.S.M.V) for
their assistance in performing experimental and related task and for gave their valuable time to
continuous support throughout the period of experimental work. They helped me as teacher, and
friend during my study at the B.P.S.M.V. In addition, I thank them for their sacrifice of joining my
study even as their busy schedule and for their valuable knowledge, insights, suggestions, hints
shared with me during this endeavor.

My thanks are also extended to the technical staff of B.P.S.M.V. especially Mrs. Sagrika for her
assistance in experimental and evaluation work. I would like to thank my entire research fellow for
their support and valuable discussion.

Most of all, I thank my companion Mr. Randhir Kumar Mishra for his never-ending support and
love for me despite his busy schedule during this trying period of my life. He has been a wonderful

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companion to me and kept my lives sane when I was away from home with my work and studies. His
encouragement and overall backing greatly helped me to complete my dissertation work. He always
extended his helpful hands for me.

I would like to cast a vote of thanks to my seniors and my loving juniors for their kind support. This
dissertation is dedicated to my grandfather.

Lastly, and most importantly My Mom, Dad and all my family members have always been a driving
force behind me for my accomplishments and achievements. Thanks a lot for everything that you
have been doing for me.

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 ABSTRACT
Eucalyptus is one of the fastest growing and abundantly grown plants across the globe for wood and
fuel requirements. In present investigation natural dye was extracted from leaves of Eucalyptus
erythrocorys by aqueous extraction method. Further dyeing of cotton, wool, nylon, polyester, silk was
performed using natural mordants such as pomegranate peel, Harda and Amla powder as well as
chemical mordants such as alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate. Cotton fabrics were dyed by
pre, post and simultaneous mordanting methods with aforesaid mordants in exhaust method on open
water shaker bath.
The colour fastness properties were evaluated for all the dyed fabrics. It was observed that dye have
moderate to good wash and rubbing fastness along with poor to moderate light fastness properties for
all the mordants and modanting techniques. L*, a*, b* values and K/S values were estimated using
CIE system using Premier Color Scan. The extracted dye showed very good shades of brown on
cotton dyed fabric in yellow and red colour coordinates. The results of the study shows that extract of
eucalyptus erythrocorys leaves waste can be used successfully for dyeing of cotton as substitute to
chemical dyes in a sustainable way.

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 CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
TITLE
NO. NO.
1 AIM 12
1.1 INTRODUCTION 12
1.1 History of dye 12 -14
1.2 Merits and demerits of natural dyes or colorants 14 -15
1.3 Silk 15
1.4 Cotton 16
1.5 Wool 17
1.6 Nylon 17
1.7 Polyester 18
Eucalyptus erythrocorys: Description & use Natural dye 18-19
1.8
relevant to industry
1.9 Relevance of natural dyes in textile industry 19
1.10 Future scope of the study 20
2. LITERATURE REVIEW 21
2.1 Previous studies 21-29
3. RESEARCH OBJECTIVES 30
4. PROJECT SIGNIFICANCE 31
5. MATERIAL AND METHODS 32
5.1 Raw material 32
5.2 Equipments used in the present study 33
5.3 Sample preparation 33-34
Assessment of colorfastness and color measurement 34-39
5.4
properties of dyed samples
6. RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS 40
6.1 Dyeing with samples 40-54
6.2 Apparel construction using eucalyptus dyed fabrics 57-62
7. CONCLUSION 62-63
8. BIBLIOGRAHPY

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 LIST OF FIGURES
CHAPTER FIGURE TITLE PAGE
NO. NO. NO.
1 Fig. 1 Natural dyestuffs obtained from different 13
origin.
1 Fig. 2 Chemical structure of eucalyptus 18
erythrocorys
1 Fig.3 Eucalyptus Erythrocorys Plant 19

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2 Fig. 4 By Jamie feldmen collection 25
2 Fig. 5 Anupama dayal collection 25
2 Fig. 6 Anita Dongre collection 26
2 Fig. 7 Anaka Narayana Brand collection 27
2 Fig. 8 Amrich Brand collection 27
2 Fig. 9 Bhu:sattva Brand collection 28
2 Fig. 10 Tvach collection 28
2 Fig. 11 Fort red bangles brand collection 29
2 Fig. 12 Indian green brand collection 29
2 Fig. 13 Eucalyptus Erythrocorys leaves and 32
grinded powder
2 Fig. 14 Pomegranate peel with grinded powder and 32
Amla powder
2 Fig. 15 Specification of fabric used 33
2 Fig. 16 Detail of development dress 36-39
5 Fig. 17 Shades of dyed fabric samples of silk 41
inserted in k/s table
5 Fig. 17.1 Shades of dyed fabric samples of silk 42
inserted in k/s table with natural mordant
6 Fig. 18 Shades of dyed fabric samples of wool 43
inserted in k/s table
6 Fig.18.1 Shades of dyed fabric samples of wool 44
inserted in k/s table with natural mordant
6 Fig. 19 Shades of dyed fabric samples of nylon 45-46
inserted in k/s table
6 Fig. 19.1 Shades of dyed fabric samples of nylon 47
inserted in k/s table with natural mordant
6 Fig. 20 Shades of dyed fabric samples of polyester 48
inserted in k/s table
6 Fig. 20.1 Shades of dyed fabric samples of polyester 49
inserted in k/s table with natural mordant
6 Fig.21 Shades of dyed fabric samples of cotton 50
inserted in k/s table
6 Fig.21.1 Shades of dyed fabric samples of cotton 51
inserted in k/s table with natural mordant
6 Fig. 22 Designed illustration of High low hem 57

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 dress inspired by party wear top
6 Fig. 23 Designed illustration of peplum dress 58
inspired by western dress
6 Fig. 24 Designed illustration of angle wings dress 59
inspired by party wear one piece dress
6 Fig. 25 Designed illustration of Kaftans’ top 59
inspired by
6 Fig. 26 Designed illustration cut out waist one 61
piece dress of inspired by party wear
dress
6 Fig. 27 Designed illustration of two piece bottle 61
dress inspired by western dress
6 Fig. 28 Designed illustration of tube top inspired 62
by party wear western dress.

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Page11
1. Aim

Aim of the research study was to perform sustainable dyeing of various textile substrates by
eucalyptus erythrocorys (red cap eucalyptus) leaves extract and various mordants. In the same
concern feasibility of dyeing of cotton, wool, nylon, polyester and silk fabric eucalyptus erythrocorys,
(red cap eucalyptus).To achieve the goal, some experiments were carried out with different dyeing
conditions for optimization of dyeing recipe.

1.1Introduction

Natural dyeing colorants which are obtained from animal, plant and vegetables are used for dyeing of
natural fibers like wool, cotton, silk etc. After the innovation of synthetic dyes the market value of
natural dyes got decreased due to poor colour fastness of natural dyes. Therefore, various types of
chemical mordants such as ferrous sulphate, copper sulphate and alum are used to improve the
affinity and fastness of natural dyes [1]. Various natural mordants like Amla, Harda, Pomegranate, etc
can be used instead of chemical mordant to minimize the problem of heavy metals in effluent.
Synthetic dyes give beautiful shades with satisfactory to excellent fastness properties but cause
various health hazards and environment problems [1]. Textile processing industry is one of the major
environment polluters. In 21st century people are more conscious about their health and moving
towards sustainable natural resources. The natural dyes are safe, biodegradable, renewable, eco-
friendly and not polluting environment such as. Today, In India approximately 450 plants are used as
source of natural dyes because of current eco- awareness. Natural dyes give a new direction
throughout the world towards the eco-friendly and sustainability. The natural dyes obtainted from
plants, animals and mineral [2, 3]. These are distinguished into various types.

Animal-derived dyes Cochineal insect (red), Cow urine (Indian yellow), lac insect (red, violet) and
murex snail (purple), octopus / cattle fish (sepia brown) [3].

Plant-derived dyes Catchu or cutch tree (brown), Gamboge tree resin(dark mustard yellow),
Himalayan rhubarb root (yellow),kamala tree( red), larkspur plant (yellow), madder root (red pink,
orange), Myrobolan fruit ,pomegranate peel (yellow)[3].

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Mordants: Basically the natural dyes don’t have affinity to make bond on textile substance so they
need Mordants to make possible chemical reactions take place between the textile material fiber or
Dyes. Mordant are classified into various types show in figure 1

Mordant

Metallic mordant Oil Natural

based on heavy metal mordant mordant
salts
Turkey red Tea leaves
chromium, oil- madder
myrobola
iron n

vinegar
aluminum
clay etc.
copper

tin

Figure 1: Classification of mordant

Consumers are demanding natural dyes because they are safe and eco-friendly to our environment.
So now- a- days many small and large industries are making a natural dyes from renewable resources
to full fill the needed requirement. In present investigation natural dye was extracted from red cap
eucalyptus leaves [5, 6]. Beside chemical mordants emphasis was give on renewable plant based-
mordants such as pomegranate peel (Pnicagranatum), Amla powder (Emblica officinalis) and Harda.
Extraction of natural dyes and mordants were applied on cotton, silk, wool, nylon and polyester
fabrics. The mordants can produce various colour shades with red cap eucalyptus dye. The various
mordanting techniques such as pre, simultaneous and post mordanting were used for dyeing. After
dyeing fastness test such as light, rubbing and washing fastness of all dyed fabric were checked.
Colour value and colour strength was evaluated using computer colour matching instrument. Staining
and change in colour of dyed samples were assessed by using standard grey scale. Further various
dresses were developed from red cap eucalyptus leaves dyed various textile substance [7, 8]. Dyed
fabric were chosen according to choice of shade as all dyed fabrics are differ with each other due to

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different in mordant and mordanting technique. Numerous attempts have been found showing
extraction of dye from eucalyptus erythrocorys. Nahil Ibrahim et al reported dyeing of textile
substance with eucalyptus leaves/bark extract with ferrous sulfate as mordant. Eucalyptus is one of
the most important sources of natural dyes yielding several yellowing –brown color.
Eucalyptus has ample natural tannins and polyphenols ranging from 10% to12%. The leaves contain
10% of the major component of tannic gallic acid and ellegic acid with Flavonoides (quercentin, rutin
etc) as miner substance (18-20) [9].

These substances are fixing the dye in the fabric (Samanta and aggrawal 2009) research on eucalyptus
leaves and application for wool by using padding techniques. (Bech told and mussak 2009,vankar
2007) recently the consumer are demanding natural dyes because that are safe and eco-friendly to our
environment So now a day many small and large industries are making a natural dye for regular basis
dyeing and printing of textiles[10]. The main coloring agent of Pomegranate contains ‘granatanine,
Harda, amla, alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate powder produced good dye uptake and
fastness properties. So eucalyptus erythrocorys can be used for 100% wool, silk, cotton, polyester and
nylon.

1.2HISTORY OF NATURAL DYE

According to cardman (1983) the people are obtained a natural dye from various sources like
plant, animal, flower, nuts, barriers and others from of vegetables. Senthilkuyes (2002) reported that
the art of dyeing; the natural dye was come in India as early as 2500B.C. various dyes like indigo
Pomegranate. Heena were said to have been used for dyeing of textile before 2500B.C. These known
dye are endless. Earlier the dye stuff was derived from various resources like plant, animal and
mineral without any chemical processing. Certain problem were observed in dyeing with natural dyes
like limited shade, fastness problem and some dye does not have direct affinity to textile substrate.
Suitable mordants can improved the affinity and fastness properties of the natural dyes [11].
1.3 MERITS AND DEMERITS OF NATURAL DYES OR COLOURANTS
In the recent years, there has been a trend to promote the art of natural dyeing. Natural colorants/dyes
have many advantages over synthetic dyes and some are given below:

Merits of natural dyes

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  The shades produced by natural dyes/colorants are soft and soothing to the human eye.
 Natural dyestuff can produce a wide range of colour spectrum.
 Different mordants give different shades with the same natural dyes.
 The natural dyes are renewable and biodegradable while synthetic dyes are non-renewable and
may not be biodegradable.
 The waste from natural dye extraction process becomes fertilizer which can be used in
agricultural fields. Because of this, there is no disposal problem of this natural waste.
 Natural dye is a labor demanding industry, thus it provides various job opportunities like
cultivation, collection and extraction of dyes.
 Some of the natural dyes are anti-allergens, so they are safe to skin and most of the natural
dyes are non-hazardous to human health.
 Synthetic dyes can be replaced by Natural dyes for specialty purpose as some of the natural
dyes have antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.

Demerits of natural dyes

Despite these advantages, natural dyes carry some disadvantages, which are responsible for the
decline of this prehistoric art of dyeing of textiles.
 To normalize a recipe for the use of natural dyes is difficult because the natural dyeing
process and its colour development depend not only on colour component but also depend on
materials.
 Almost all natural dyes require the use of mordants to fix them on to the textile substrate.
While dyeing, mordant remains unexhausted in the remaining dye bath. Chemical mordant
being heavy metallic salts can create effluent disposal problem.
 They may change the colour when they are exposed to the sun light, sweat and air.
 The natural dyes have limited shade.
 Some time difficult to dye a textile material.

1.4 SILK:
Silk and wool both are protein fiber however silk is obtained from insect silk worm. Basically silk has
had triangular structure which is responsible for its lustrous applearance. In the 27 century china

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discovered silk by the help of chinless man sil-lin –chi Silkworm wrapping in their own cocoon itself.
There is also evidence of silk dating between 4000 and 3000 BCE. In china only women are farmed
the silkworm. In the third century the Chinese sericulture experts were kidnapped by Korea and
disclosed the secret of silk and its spread all over the world. Today many countries are silk producing
countries like Japan, china, soviet, union, India, Italy, south Korea, turkey etc. It is called Queen of
fibers [12].
End use of silk:
For making a textile clothing.

1.5 COTTON:
Cotton is made up of white cellulose fiber. Cotton fibers cover the seeds which are harvested from
cotton plant. Cotton is also called the king of fibers. In tropical and subtropical zone cotton is
cultivated more than 80 countries of the world. It is soft and stable fiber that grows in a ball. The
various major cotton producing countries USA, China, India, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Turkey, Brazil,
Greece, Argentina and Egypt. These countries contribute about 85% to the global cotton production.
India remained the chief producer of cotton until 1500 AD. India stands first in area, third in
production and last in productivity among these countries. In India, there are nine major cotton
growing states which are divided into three zones, viz. north zone, central zone and south zone. North
zone consists of Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan and Western Uttar Pradesh. Central zone includes
Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra and Gujarat. South zone comprises Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and
Tamil Nadu. These states cover about 95% of cotton area and also contribute about 95% to the total
cotton production in India. There are four cultivated species of cotton viz. Gossypiumarboreum,
G.herbaceum, G.hirsutum and G.barbadense. The first two species are also known as Asiatic cottons
because they are grown in Asia.
Uses- Basically the Cotton comes in many varieties and qualities, each appropriate for special
purposes. Because of its high capacity to absorb, hold and dry moisture, cotton offers maximum
comfort under extreme heat and humidity. So cotton fabric is commonly used for making garments.
They are also used for making stuffing for furniture etc. Cotton fabric is used in home furnishings
like draperies such as towels, sheets, pillowslips, bedspreads, upholstery and table linen and
other industrial uses such as medical and hygienic uses like compress, gauze bandages, tampons

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or sanitary towels, and cotton swabs. Cotton fabrics is used for specialty function like fire-proof
apparel, which is suitable for professional uses and provides effective protection against potential
risks associated with high temperature and particularly flashover [14].

1.6 wool:
The time when man discarded animal skins in favour of garments made from fiber marks the origin of
textile industry. Basically the wool is found in felt state In the Mesopotamia the manufacturing of
woolen cloth was important. The ancient Egyptians, Babylonians, Greeks and Hebrews practiced
hand spinning and weaving in home. Thus the household craft was developed by wool industry in all
over the world. In the time of Christian era the finest woolen material came from various places like
Baghdad, Damascus and other cities of the Turkish Empire. Basically the animals grow hair on their
body from carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, sulpher etc. these obtained by animals because they eaten food
and they breath air, first simple compound are obtained from these. These compound form protein
macromolecules forming flesh, skin, hairs etc. amide groups are present (-NH2) at one end an acid
group (-COOH).The 18 amino acid are present in wool macromolecule [12].
Use: To making a shall, sweaters and other apparels which are suitable for winter season also.
1.7 Nylon
Nylon is polyamide fibres and classified as nylon6 or nylon 66 based on type of polymer. In 1930 the
walance carothere of du Pont Company on USA discovered nylon 6.6. The polymer was
commercialisd by dupont in 1939. Schlock in Germany invented the nylon 6.
Use: Nylon is extensively used for apparel manufacturing especially in hosiery clothing. High
tenacity nylon 6.6 or nylon 6 are used for tyro cords in heavy-duty tyre construction, low specific
gravity, good adheshion to rubber and high mechanical strength including high impact resistance
[12].
1.8 POLYSTER
Poly (ethylene tere-phthalate) or PET is synthetic fiber. In 1941 the polyester was discovered by J.R
whinfield and J.J Dickson in United Kingdom. The various company discovered the polyester in
different trade name such as Terrene (CAFI, India), Futura (National organic chemical, India),
Terylene (U.K), Dacron (U.S.A) [12].

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Use: Polyester is used in all type of apparels end use either alone or in blends with cotton, wool, flax
and other fiber.
1.9 EUCALYPTUS: DESCRIPTION & USE
Common Name: nilgiri
Scientific Name: eucalyptus erythrocorys
Family:  Myrtaceae.
Genus:  eucalyptus
Species: erythrocorys
Other names of eucalyptus: nilgiri, safeda, red cap eucalyptus.
Eucalyptus belongs to the family myrtaceae. Eucalyptus erythrocorys, commonly known
as Illyarrie, Red-capped gum or Helmet nut gum is a mallee from Western Australia. The plant is as
shown in Fig.2. Leaves contain tannic and other chemical constituents as shown in fig.2 which are
responsible for the yellow-brown colour of plant [15-18].

Figure 2: Color composition of Eucalyptus leaf extract dye

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 There are more than 700 species of eucalyptus in all over the world. In India varieties of
erythrocorys eucalyptus are commonly cultivated. This species are cultivated widely in the tropical
and temperate world including the Americas, Europe, Africa, the Mediterranean Basin, the Middle
East, China and the Indian ,Subcontinent .These plant can be seen every season but the flower are
grow only in summer. It has different types of colors varies from bright yellowish-brown to dark
grayish-brown.

Cultivation:
Eucalyptus consumed 0.48 liters of water to produce a gram of wood whereas-siris, shisham, jamun
and kangi consumes 0.55, 0.77, 0.50 and 0.88 liter respectively for per gram of wood. Thus
eucalyptus is more water efficient than other species. The annual growth of eucalyptus is about 8
cum/ha - 40 cum/ha, as compared to the average of 0.50 cu m/ha for indigenous trees. Much faster
growth main reason for which the species was introduce in country. This tree has good adaptability
for wide range of soil and climate. The various species are grows under a wide range of soil and
climate condition from warm to hot, sub humid to humid and from good to degraded soil [17].

Figure 3: eucalyptus erythrocorys plant

Uses:  It is extensively used for paper industries. Eucalyptus is used for improving respiratory
health, boosts immunity, reduces anxiety, stress, skin care, controls diabetes, eye infections and for
wound healing. Yellow dyes have been extracted from the leaves by boiling.

2.0 Importance OF NATURAL DYES IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

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The Natural dye raw materials are easily available from our surrounding at cheaper or lower cost.
Natural dye can be extracted either in solution or in powder form. Application of natural dyes can
generate numerous jobs in supply chain of apparel manufacturing. Natural dyes are bio-degrable and
renewable thus they do not have dumping problem. Exhausted natural dyes can be used as manure for
lands [19].

FUTURE SCOPE OF THE STUDY

In this study, five types of fabrics were treated with natural dye obtained from eucalyptus with
different mordanting techniques using natural mordants and chemical mordants such as Pomegranate
Peel, Harda, Amla powder, Alum, Copper sulpher and ferrous sulpher. All the dyed fabric samples of
yellow-brown hues showed fair to good colour fastness. The obtained shades are different to each
other further studies can be carried out to develop various colour shades with this natural dye. Natural
dye has been assessed throughout the world due to their current eco-awareness. The use of natural
dyes also helps to popularize Green Fashion and decrease global pollution. The finding of the
research shows that the application of eucalyptus leaves extract at industries scale can create job
opportunity for small enterprises which are engaged in textile and garment field [19].

Challenges
• To develop new techniques which provide excellent colour strength in less amount of natural
dye
• To produce maximum amount of dye with minimum use of natural resources
• To produce natural dye economically at cheap rate.
• To get reproducibility with good fastness properties of dyed fabric
• To aware peoples such as natural dyes toward Eco Fashion with natural resources

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2. LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 PREVIOUS STUDIES:
This chapter aims to provide a comprehensive review of the past study performed on herb eucalyptus
erythrocorys. It is revealed that these herbs consist various medicinal properties to cure different kind
of disease in pharmaceuticals industries and can be used as natural dyes in textile. Therefore all the
relevant literature found on eucalyptus erythrocorys is mentioned below.

Eucalyptus Studies and Research: There are 900 hundred species of the eucalyptus such as
Eucalyptus camaldulensis, Eucalyptus globules, eucalyptus hybrid, eucalyptus citriodora, etc. Each
species can play importance role. Some of the most exciting eucalyptus oil shows that it can help
prevent drug-resistant bacterial infections like tuberculosis (TB). As more strains of TB continue to
evolve defenses against the drug protocols traditionally used, a major public health concern has risen
to the forefront — especially for regions like Africa, which are still highly affected by HIV/AIDS. So
in present investigation red cap eucalyptus erythrocorys was selected for dyeing of textiles. [20-22].

In the previous study the Eucalyptus Erythrocorys was used to extract oil. The antifungal properties
are present in the oil significantly inhibited the growth of five plant especially bipolaris, sorikinian
and botrytis, cinerea. Basically the eucalyptus oil and leaves are used or inhalation treatment and a
bathing. More than 300 species contain oil in their leaves [20].

Most of the person was work on the various species of eucalyptus:

S. Ali, etal. Applied natural dye extracted from eucalyptus bark with sodium sulphate mordant on to
cotton substrate. It was reported that dyed cotton samples display fairly good saturation with
moderate to good colour fastness properties.

Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit extracted natural dyes from eucalyptus leaves and dyed wool fabric
by using padding technique [16].

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Natural dyes from Eucalyptus leaf extract, quercentin, rutin and tannin were applied to silk fabric by
pad-batch and pad-dry techniques under different conditions by Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit etal.
they used ferrous sulphate as mordant [18].

Gyanendra tripathi etal. , applied natural dyes extracted from eucalyptus camaldulensis leaves on
cotton fabric [23].

Tamrat, Tesfaye, etal. , used of natural dyes to replace synthetic has been advocated for to
circumvent the environment problems associated with synthetic dyes. Natural dye was extracted from
eucalyptus bark and leaves. The bark gave more colorised material than extracted from eucalyptus
leaves. [24].

Introduction of eucalyptus erythrocorys

Eucalyptus erythrocorys is a commonly known as Illyarrie, Red-capped gum or Helmet nut gum, is
a mallee from Western Australia. The common name Illyarrie is the Noongar peoples name for the
plant. It is small plant typically growing to a height of 3-10 meter (10 to 33ft) and a width of 3 to 6
meter (10 to 20ft). The colour of the bark is cream and the surface is smooth but can have a few rough
brown coloured patches where it persists on the trunk instead of being shed. The adult leaves are dark
green in colour and sickle-shaped. It blooms between February and April and produces inflorescences
with yellow flowers. A bright red cap covered by bright yellow flower. Basically the species was first
formally described by the botanist Ferdinand Von Mueller in 1860 as part of the work fragment
photographer Australia. The erythrocorys is a Greek word, erythrocorys means red and Korys
meaning helmet in reference to the bright red operculum. The plant would be found in seed form or
tube stokes which is popular species in Australia. The seed germinate very fastly and it could be
shaped by light praning. The colorful flower mark it easy birds to nectar. Fast growing is the main
reason for drought and smog resistance [23, 24].
Eucalyptus - (all parts, leaves and bark) beautiful shades of tan, deep rust red, yellow, green, orange
and chocolate brown.

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Herbs description
Botanical name - Eucalyptus Erythrocorys
Family name - Myrtaceae
Hindi name - nilgiri
Urdu name - safeda
Chemical composition of herbs
 Tannic acid
 Gallic acid
 Ellagic acid
 Polyphenols
 Flavonoides
 Quercentin
 Rutin
Pharacological activities of eucalyptus
The various pharacological activates of eucalyptus are [20, 21].
Prevent skin diseases: eucalyptus is strong antibacterial, which fight and protect from skin diseases.

Good for the respiratory system: The use of eucalyptus oil against respiratory infections is an age
long remedy used by many folk healers around the world.

Great anti-inflammatory: By the scientific study this property of eucalyptus is as well validated.
Many people have suggested the consumption of its tea to relieve pains and aches caused by
inflammation.

Treats wounds: Basically the eucalyptus oil is used for the treatment of wounds, cuts and abrasions
because it has antimicrobial and antiseptic properties.

Page23
Controls diabetes: Eucalyptus has been proven by many scientific studies to have anti-diabetic
effect.

Dental care: Because of antimicrobial properties that are use to prevent the dental plaque and
cavities. In many toothpastes the oil are found as an active ingredient.

Eliminates intestinal parasites: Eucalyptus oil is a great anthelmintic, and thus used to expel
intestinal germs. The antimicrobial activity of this oil provides an unfavorable environment for the
proliferation of intestinal germs, thus, can be used as an effective vermifuge.

Botanical description

Eucalyptus erythrocorys that are grow in wide range of soil and climate there are 900 species most of
found in every part of Australia, India, and very small number of eucalyptus are found in adjacent
parts of new guinea and Indonesia as it is adapted to all the climate conditions of these continent.
Eucalyptus contains oil in the leaves and other some species are used for pharmaceutical and
cosmetic industries. This tree has high degree of drought resistance, hence can be cultivated in
drought areas and waste islands. In India the eucalyptus tree can be grow in the regions with
temperature range of 0 degree c to 47degree c [24, 25].

Land Preparation in eucalyptus farming

Basically the land selected for eucalyptus cultivation should be free from weeds and any previously
cultivated crop roots.
Soil requirement for eucalyptus farming:
The eucalyptus required wide range of soil. Basically the tree required deep, rich, and well drained
loamy soil with sufficient moisture for best growth and yield. Eucalyptus are grown in high alkaline
and saline soils with PH range of 6.0- 7.5.

Some designers are very conscious about health and environment so they use a waste flower to
make truly magical clothing.

Page24
By Jamie feldmen: she collects these waste flowers to dye the garment. A graduate of the Chelsea
College of arts and design in London, piazza credits her work with natural, sustainable product to
workshop [26].

Figure 4: By Jamie feldmen collection

Green is the new black: Eco-friendly Indian designers who have started a fashion revolution
[27-31].

Anupama Dayal- Anupama Dayal is an Indian designer. Her fashion label is ‘Anupama’ which is
fully natural with her vibrant prints. Dayal prepared a collection of earliest hand-printing, different
needle-craft techniques and dyeing. Her creations were made with the use of vegetable dyes and hand
carved wooden blocks which were prepared by master craftsmen. Her some collection is exhibited in
Fig.5.

Figure 5: Anupama Dayal collection

Bhoomki

Page25
The label of this Indian-American designer was born out of a sense of disillusionment with the sheer
waste taking place in the conventional fashion industry of effort and resources that went into
producing large collections that often went unsold. Her desire to create long-lasting, ethically
produced fashion in ways that preserved the environment and promoted disappearing textile traditions
led to the birth of Bhoomki. With her offerings, she not only advocates, but practices recycling, re-
purposing and up cycling. She launched a collection of coats made from recycled bottles and organic
cotton last year and says, “These coats will have the lowest carbon footprint vis-a-vis competition in
America.

Dr. Surabhi Mahajan in 2009 explored about eco-clothing to popularize green clothing in fashion.
A survey was done by two leading textile manufacturing units and got response of 200 customers
from all zones of Ludhiana city. The survey report revealed that more than two-third customers were
ignorant about eco-clothing. He elaborated the awareness about green clothing, how to make them
available to the customers and how to afford the cost to make them popular among the common
people [24].
Chanoknart Mayusoh in 2015 had accompanied many studies on tie-dyeing methods such as tying,
folding, pleating, wrapping. Cracked to create news patterns in dyeing by using colourful scarves.
Anita Dongre took effort on natural fiber and eco-friendly dyeing. Introduced haute-couture line of
eco-friendly fibers, natural exclusive with hand block prints. She customized the traditional dyeing
techniques of Rajasthan with chikankari embroidery from Lucknow, badhani and leheriya shown in
Fig. 6.

Page26
 Figure 6: Anita Dongre collection
Paramita Banerjee Paramita Banerjee has redefine handlooms as they widen the scope for as they
widen the scope for innovation and also the production is time consuming. The global recognition has
eventually contributed to the rural artisans. The eponymous Japanese folk practice of designing cloth
from rags/scraps has been extended to her brand boro creating an incredible mix of fashion and
culture. Handspun, Hand-woven and natural dyed fabric like khadi in easily identifiable among her
collection.
Anaka Narayananan an economic analyst in a New York City began her work in a Chennai based
venture. With a focused work on traditional textile, natural dyeing, she has designed clothing with
Ajrakh and hand-woven fabrics, significantly for Brass tacks. The use of natural dye wakes the
clothes for environment with colours like off white, indigo, grey black or madder-red.

Figure 7: Anaka Narayanan collection

Amrich- It’s a brand which basically works on tie- dye technique with hand embroidery of ikat and
jamdani. It mainly focuses on the traditional craft from different states like Bengal, MP, AP and
Kutch etc with natural dyeing, printing, embroideries in fig 8.
Figure 8: Amrich Brand collection

Page27
Bhu: sattva – Is an Indian brand with natural clothing with natural clothing with natural sanity and
mystique. He believed in preserving the beauty of nature. Bhu: sattva is a Gujarat based organic
clothing brand which works in natural fibres and which try to create a natural magical force. It
emphasizes a flowy and feminine silhouette with soft colour palette. Eco-friendly clothing is gaining
more eminence around the world, and has totally got mixed with our current trends in fashion. This
is shown below in Fig. 9.

Figure 9: Bhu: sattva Brand collection

Tvach–It is a global apparel brand which uses organic and skin friendly fabrics that are made out of
natural dyes as shown in Fig. 10. The fabrics are made from organic cotton, silk and bamboo or as
well as isolated from turmeric, madder, indigo, pomegranate, Myrobolan, beetroot etc.

Page28
 Figure 10: Tvach Brand collection
Forty Red Bangles – Ramona Saboo’s forty red wedding bangles which is an international brand
which is inspired by traditional natural sources. It’s an innovative organization which makes clothing
out of herbal textile and dye. It offers wide range apparel for men, women and others as shown in
Fig.11.

Figure 11: Forty Red Bangles collection

Indigreen- It is an international brand with 100% eco-friendly products. It emphasize on organic
cotton, bamboo fabric and organic khadi which are eco-friendly colors as shown in Fig.12. The
dresses prepared by Indigreen are also used in Bollywood. The company is ethical and provides
decent working conditions to the painting artists and others [27]

Page29
Figure 12: Indigreen Brand collection

3. RESEARCH OBJECTIVES
This project is concerned with a systematic study of dyeing of cotton, silk, nylon, polyester and wool
fabric with eucalyptus leaves with the help of natural mordants and chemical mordant such as
Pomegranate peel, Harda, Amla powder, alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate [32, 33]. The
specific objectives can be defined as follows:
1. Optimisation of dye extraction in water.
2. To study the dye ability of various textile substrates as well as optimization of dyeing recipe.
3. To study the effect of various chemical and natural mordant in improvement of fastness and shade
variations.
4. To study the fastness properties of dyed cotton, nylon, wool, polyester silk fabric with eucalyptus
leaves extract.
5. To analyze the L*, a*, b* and K/S values of dyed samples.
6. To use eucalyptus leaves extract dyed fabric in apparel construction.
To evaluate the functional properties of eucalyptus leaves extract.

Page30
4. PROJECT SIGNIFICANCE
The aim of the project is to check the feasibility of dyeing with eucalyptus leaves extract on cotton,
Silk, Wool, Polyester and Nylon fabrics [34]. The known advantages of application of Natural dyes
on textiles and apparels are-
o Save to the environment.
o Basically that is obtained from renewable source.
o They are simple and coordinate with nature.
o In generally they have poor to moderate fastness ratings but have sober appearance.
o They are cost effective.
o In case of natural dyes by using various mordant different shades of colour can be obtained.

Main aim of my project is Sustainability. Basically the Synthetic dyes are harmful to human body
and our environment. Due to this various problem occurs in human body like skin allergy, irritation,
etc. In India the textile and garment industries have larger job area. People are working or leaving on
this field with exposure of toxic effluents which may be very dangerous to their health. The uses of
natural dyes are not harmful for health and also eco-friendly. Thus there is dire need to employ
natural resources for dyeing of textile materials. Hence in present research one of the natural dye
based on eucalyptus erythrocorys leaves were selected for dyeing of various textile materials [35].

Page31
5. MATERIAL AND METHODS

5.1 RAW MATERIAL

Source: Leaves of dark green variety of eucalyptus erythrocorys were collected from BPSMV,
Khanpur Kalan, Sonipat,, Haryana, India. These were grinded into powder with the help of grinder
after shadow drying for 20 days as shown in fig. 13.

Figure 13: eucalyptus leaves and grinded powder

Punicagranatum (Pomegranate Peel) was collected from nearby juice corner in Khanpur Kalan,
Sonipat and converted into powered form. Amla powder and Harda powder was purchased from
market and used as it is as mordant.

Figure 14: Pomegranate peel with grinded powder and amla powder

Substrate: Bleached woven fabrics were procured from Nehru place market, Delhi and used in
present study after definishing by mild soaping treatment. There fabric specifications are mentioned
in Table 15.

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 . Table 15: Specifications of fabrics used
Silk Weave -
EPI – 108
PPI - 114
GSM - 52 gram
Wool Weave -
EPI – 94
PPI - 82
GSM –106 gram
Cotton Weave -
EPI – 61
PPI - 84
GSM – 100 gram
Nylon Weave -
EPI – 120
PPI - 120
GSM - 18 gram
Polyester Weave -
EPI – 75
PPI - 80
GSM - 89 gram

5.2 Instruments used in the Present Study:

• Weighing balance
• Water bath for dyeing
• Hot air oven
• Colour fastness equipments- Crock meter, Laundrometer, Xenon lamp based light fastness
tester
• CCM- Premier Colour Scan (SS5100A)

Page33
 • Brothers sewing machines
5.3 SAMPLE PREPARATION
5.3.1 Definishing: Cotton; silk, nylon, polyester, and wool were washed with 2 gpl soap solution for
25 min, keeping the material to ratio at 1:20 prior to mordanting and dyeing.
5.3.2 Extraction of dye
Dye powder was extracted using 15 gm of eucalyptus leaves in 450 ml of distilled water for 90
minute at 100º C. Extract was filtered and dried to obtain the natural dye in powder form.
5.3.3 Mordanting Recipe:
Chemical and natural mordant’s namely Alum, Copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate, Pomegranate peel,
Harda and Amla powder were used with following recipe-
Mordant: - 20% owf
MLR: - 1:30
Temperature: - 100º C
Time: - 90 minutes
This mordanted material was squeezed and dried at room temperature. Mordanting was carried out by
following techniques: Pre-mordanting
In pre-mordanting the material is first impregnated directly with the mordants (Pomegranate peel,
Harda, Amla powder, Alum, Copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate) and then dyed with eucalyptus leaves
extract in the separate bath.
Simultaneous mordanting
In this method the fabrics were mordanted and dyed simultaneously in the same bath.
Post-mordanting
In the case of post-mordanting, mordanting is carried out after the dyeing step.
5.3.4: Dyeing
Dyeing was performed using following recipe -
Dye Concentration:-20%
MLR:-1:30
Temperature:-100º C
Time: 90 minutes.
PH: 5-6

Page34
Dyeing of polyester
Dye Concentration:-20%
MLR:-1:30
Temperature:-120º C
Time: -90 minutes.
PH: -5-6
Dyeing was performed using conventional exhaust dyeing method on water shaker bath. After
completion of dyeing fabric samples were washed thoroughly with tap water and then.
5.4 ASSESSMENT OF COLOUR FASTNESS AND COLOUR MEASUREMENT
PROPERTIES OF DYED SAMPLES
Introduction: : Colour fastness means any change in colour characteristics or transfer of colorants
from dyed textile material to other textile materials during its use or washing, dry cleaning, etc or
exposure to heat, light, etc. Fading means changes in the colour with loss of depth of shade. Bleeding
means the colour is transferred from dyed material to washing or soaping liquor and work as dyeing
bath.].
5.4.1 Quality assurance test of dyed samples:
The dyed materials were tested for wash, rubbing and light fastness as per ISO standards IS: - 3361-
1979, IS: - 2485-1985 Test III IS: - 766-1988, respectively after dyeing for quality assurance purpose.
Colour fastness is a measure of two different properties of a textile i.e. changes in colour when
subjected to a wash treatment at standard condition and tendency to cause staining to adjacent fabrics
during washing treatment. The colour fastness properties of a textile substrate is dependent on type of
fibres, the construction of the material and which type of dyestuff is used with method by which it has
been applied. Fastness properties depend on the strength of the attractive forces between the dye and
the fiber.
Washing Fastness Test: washing fastness test is commonly used to check colour fastness of textile
materials to washings. For washing fastness, the dyed samples were washed in Laundrometer as per
standard of IS: 336-1984 (ISO-2). Standard gray scale was used to check the fading in dyed sample
and staining in adjacent bleached fabrics.
Light Fastness Test: The light fastness analyzed by xenon lamp. Samples were placed directly to
the xenon lamp for 60 hours light exposure. Afterwards exposed sample in light source was

Page35
compared to unexposed sample to assess how much colour is faded or changed. Rubbing Fastness
Test: Colour fastness to rubbing means the resistance of colour of dyed materials to wet and dry
rubbing. Take a crock instrument and put the sample after that give a 10 cycles and check the fading
by using AATCC-8 test method.
Scores for wash fastness and rubbing fastness: 5-Excellent, 4-very Good, 3- Fair to Good, 2- Poor,
1- Very Poor.
Scores for light fastness: 1- Very Poor; 2-Poor; 3- Moderate; 4- Fairly good; 5-Good; 6- Very good;
7- Excellent; 8- Outstanding.
5.4.2 Measurement of colour attributes:
Colorimetric values L, a*, b* and K/S of different dyed samples were measured according to CIE
system using Premier colour scan and software interfaced with computer. Illuminant D 65, observer
10 and CIE 1976 were used. The instrument was standardized with a white tile. CIE co-ordinates of
the samples are as follows:-
L signifies lightness (L+ --lighter, L- -- darker)
a signifies redder or greener (a+ -- redder, a- -- greener)
b signifies bluer or yellower (b+ --yellower, b- -- bluer)
K/S = [{(l-R)2 / 2R}]
Colour Strength = [(K/S) Batch / [(K/S) Standard] x 100
The Kubelka- Munk theory gives the above said relation between reflectance and absorbance, where
R is reflectance, K is absorbance and S is scattering.
After completion of dyeing process dyed fabric samples were used for preparation of dresses.
Recipes giving the highest K/S or suitable values were used for dyeing the fabric in bulk. But the
various measurements and other details of the dresses are given in Table 16.

Page36
 Table 16: Details of developed dresses

Children wear
1. kaftans Measurement Length- 15”
Top Width- ”
Shoulder- 12”
Neck depth- 3”
Fabric Silk and nylon dyed by meta mordanting
with eucalyptus dye and pomegranate peel as
a mordant
Trims and Off white pearls and sewing thread
accessories
2. high Measurements Front Length- 20” back length-18”
low Shoulder- 14”
hem top Neck depth- 5”
Bust- 34”
Waist- 24”
Hip- 36”
Fabric Wool and nylon dyed by meta mordanting
with eucalyptus dye and Harda as a mordant
with tie & dye technique

Trims and Off White pearls and sewing thread

accessories
( Teenager wear)

3. Peplum Measurement Length- 30”

dress waist- 24”
Bust- 36”
Two adjustable Strapped top”-15
Hip- 36”
Fabric 100% undyed polyester and wool, silk dyed
by meta mordanting with eucalyptus dye and

Page37
 amla as a mordant
Trims Off White pearls, sewing thread, ribbon and
accessories lace, bow dye with polyester.
4. Angel Measurement Length- 31”
wings Shoulder- 14”
dress Hip-36’’
Off shoulder two adjustable strapped”-15
Bust- 36”
Waist- 28”
Fabric Wool and nylon dyed by post mordanting
with eucalyptus dye and pomegranate peel
as a mordant
Trims Sewing thread, lace and pearls
5. Cut out Measurement Length- 34”
waist one Waist- 24”
piece Bust-34”
Hip-35”
Fabric Cotton fabric only dyed with alum mordant
Trims and Pearls off white, sewing thread, dyed bow of
accessories polyester

6. Two Measurement Length- 22”

piece Bust-34’’
bottle Hip-36’’
dress tube Waist-24’’
Fabric Silk dyed by meta mordanting with
top
eucalyptus dye and pomegranate peel as a
mordant
Trims Sewing thread, hook, eye and laces
Skirt Measurement Length- 30”
Waist- 36”
Fabric Polyester fabric dyed with only eucalyptus
dye
Trims Zipper, pearls and sewing thread

Page38
By the help of conventional exhaust dyeing method the dyeing was done. Polyester was dyed by
HTHP (High temperature high pressure) in 100º C. When the dyeing processes was complete, by
using cold water wash a dyed sample and dried at room temperature. By the help of the open water
bath technique in Dyeing & coloration Lab of BPS Mahila Vishawavidyalya, Sonipat.

6. RSULTS AND DISCUSSION

Page39
6.1DYEING WITH SAMPLES
Dyeing of Various Fabrics by Eucalyptus Erythrocorys’ Leaves Extraction Eucalyptus
erythrocorys’ leaves extraction was found in brown shades of yellow-red colour. Mordant plays a
very important role in imparting colour to the fabric. The results indicate that there were many shades
of yellow-brown colour obtained after dyeing the cotton, wool, nylon, silk and polyester fabric with
eucalyptus erythrocorys’ leave extract using different mordanting techniques
Dyeing of Silk Fabric

Initially dyeing of silk was performed using chemical mordant. The L, a, b values, k/s and shade of
samples are tabulated in Table 17. It can be observed that the dyed sample with eucalyptus’ leaves
extract without any mordant was in yellow red colour coordinates. Colour variation were observed
when chemical mordants such as alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate were applied to silk
fabric although all dyed sample were laying in brown shades of yellow red colour coordinates except
the meta and post mordanting with ferrous sulphate where value of “a” coordinate shifted slightly
towards the negative side is greenish side.

S. No. Fabric Mordant Process k/s L* a* b* Shade of Sample

Page40
 1 Silk Undyed 0.317 86.178 0.113 14.101

Dyed sample with eucalyptus leaves extract ( 20% 3..635 44.957 2.942 6.432
shade ) without mordant

Alum, 20 % Pre- 4.342 39.327 0.148 2.406

mordanting

Meta- 2.35 54.509 1.82 9.982

Mordantin
g
Post- 1.728 55.645 3.15 5.901
mordanting

Copper Sulphate, 20 % Pre- 4.62 41.54 2.019 6.346

mordanting

Meta- 3.277 49.007 2.218 9.423

Mordantin
g
Post- 3.047 49.448 1.872 8.496
mordanting

Ferrous Sulphate, 20 % Pre- 3.641 42.085 0.162 2.262

mordanting

Meta- 3.479 42.786 -0.5 2.055

Mordantin
g
Post- 3.661 41.662 -0.25 1.892
mordanting

Table 17: Dyeing of silk fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract (20% shade) using different
chemical mordants and mordanting techniques

Dyeing of silk fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract were also performed using natural mordants. The
obtained L. a, b values, k/s and shade of dyed samples are tabulated in Table 17.1. It can be observed
that similar to chemical mordant varied shades of brown in yellow red coordinates were obtained for
all the natural mordant too. It can be compared from Table 17 to Table 17.1 that in case of dyeing
with natural mordants colour value of b is significantly higher than dyed samples with chemical
mordants. It shows that dyed samples with the help of natural mordants are rich in yellowness.

Page41
Similarly L values of dyed samples with natural mordants are higher than L values of dyed samples
with chemical mordants thus they are significantly lighter in colour tone.

S. No. Fabric Mordant Process k/s L* a* b* Shade of

Sample
Silk Pomegranate Rind, 20 % Pre-mordanting 4.892 45.194 2.733 10.561

Meta-Mordanting 1.451 65.717 5.354 13.88

Post-mordanting 2.747 59.811 4.754 17.305

Aamla, 20 % Pre-mordanting 2.905 51.177 3.15 9.206

Meta-Mordanting 2.609 61.787 5.465 18.891

Post-mordanting 1.785 59.664 3.168 10.046

Harda 20% Pre-mordanting 3.425 54.51 3.676 14.268

Meta-Mordanting 1.95 67.02 4.334 19.057

Post-mordanting 2.633 61.637 3.67 18.111

Table 17.1: Dyeing of silk fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract (20% shade) using different
Natural mordants and mordanting techniques

Dyeing of Wool Fabric

Page42
Dyeing of wool fabric was performed using chemical and natural mordants. The L, a, b value, k/s and
shade of dyed chemical mordanted samples are tabulated in Table 18. It can observed that the dyed
wool sample with eucalyptus leaves extract without any mordant was in yellow red colour
coordinates. Colour variation were observed when chemical mordants such as alum, copper sulphate
and ferrous sulphate were applied to wool fabric although all dyed sample were laying in brown
shades with all + b values ( yellow coordinate) whereas a values are very less and in certain cases
deviating slightly towards red (+ a) to greenish side (-a).

S. No. Fabric Mordant Process k/s L* a* b* Shade of

Sample
2 Wool Undyed 0.401 85.353 -0.117 8.959

Dyed sample with eucalyptus leaves extract ( 20% 2.21 57.402 3.088 11.811
shade ) without mordant

Alum, 20 % Pre-mordanting 1.888 60.048 0.609 11.027

Meta- 2.1 61.654 4.018 16.682

Mordanting

Post-mordanting 1.879 60.43 0.786 11.307

Copper Sulphate, 20 % Pre-mordanting 3.794 50.787 -0.943 12.67

Meta- 3.558 49.37 -1.639 15.319

Mordanting

Post-mordanting 5.058 45.276 0.265 11.722

Ferrous Sulphate, 20 % Pre-mordanting 3.914 47.19 0.399 9.125

Meta- 3.978 43.946 -0.171 3.489

Mordanting

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 Post-mordanting 4.451 42.088 -0.097 5.347

Table 18: Dyeing of wool fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract (20% shade) using different
chemical mordants and mordanting techniques.

Dyeing of wool fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract were also performed using natural mordants.
The obtained L. a, b values, k/s and shade of dyed samples with eucalyptus leaves extract and natural
mordants are tabulated in Table 18.1 It can be observed from the Table …that colour of all the wool
dyed samples with eucalyptus and natural mordants are laying in yellow red coordinates. The value
of a colour coordinate varied from 1.904 to 4.976 whereas value of colour coordinate b varied from
5.347 to 24.835.

Similar to silk dyeing it can be also observed from wool dyeing that dyed samples with natural
mordants have higher L values than dyed samples with chemical mordants. Thus natural mordanted
dyed samples are lighter in shades.

S. Fabric Mordant Process k/s L* a* b* Shade of Sample

No
.
2 Wool Pomegranate Rind, 20 % Pre-mordanting 2.114 67.267 3.524 18.718

Meta-Mordanting 3.558 62.281 4.186 23.765

Post-mordanting 5.361 58.66 4.954 5.347

Amla, 20 % Pre-mordanting 1.721 66.322 4.277 17.546

Meta-Mordanting 2.602 62.637 4.976 19.425

Post-mordanting 3.201 56.875 4.315 16.543

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 Harda 20 % Pre-mordanting 3.624 56.756 1.904 18.036

Meta-Mordanting 4.939 58.761 4.677 24.835

Post-mordanting 3.554 62.341 4.336 23.319

Table 18:1 Dyeing of wool fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract (20% shade) using different
natural mordants and mordanting techniques.

Dyeing of Nylon Fabric

After completion of dyeing of natural protein fibres dyeing of nylon was performed with eucalyptus
leaves extract using chemical and natural mordants. The L, a, b value, k/s and shade of samples dyed
using chemical mordants are tabulated in Table 19. It can observed that the dyed sample with
eucalyptus leaves extract without any mordant was in yellow red colour coordinates with less L
values (36.762) than other dyed samples using mordants. Colour variation were observed when
mordants such as alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate were applied to nylon fabric although
all dyed sample were laying in brown shades of yellow red colour coordinates.

S. No. Fabric Mordant Process k/s L* a* b* Shade of Sample

3 Nylon Undyed 0.118 83.858 0.21 0.429

Dyed sample with eucalyptus leaves extract ( 20% 6.811 36.762 3.243 7.674
shade ) without mordant

Alum, 20 % Pre-mordanting 3.969 43.717 3.804 6.75

Meta-Mordanting 3.31 48.258 3.949 8.88

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 Post-mordanting 4.484 43.717 3.804 5.468

Copper Sulphate, 20 % Pre-mordanting 4.484 41.224 2.591 5.568

Meta-Mordanting 8.476 40.256 3.167 16.999

Post-mordanting 5.079 43.43 3.773 10.875

Ferrous Sulphate, 20 % Pre-mordanting 3.216 51.027 2.799 18.238

Meta-Mordanting 3.964 44.979 0.368 6.742

Post-mordanting 5.432 39.435 5.269 7.087

Table: 19Dyeing of nylon fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract (20% shade) using different
chemical mordants and mordanting technique.

Dyeing of nylon fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract were also performed using natural mordants.
The obtained L. a, b values, k/s and shade of dyed samples are tabulated in Table19.1 It can be
observed that similar to chemical mordant varied brown in yellow red coordinates were obtained do
all the natural mordant too.

S. No. Fabric Mordant Process k/s L* a* b* Shade of

Sample

Page46
 Nylon Pomegranate Rind, 20 % Pre-mordanting 9.855 41.192 8.529 18.238

Meta-Mordanting 6.406 44.18 6.994 14.571

Post-mordanting 6.386 46.002 7.679 16.329

Amla, 20 % Pre-mordanting 6.344 43.163 5.338 13.245

Meta-Mordanting 6.177 44.059 8.367 14.604

Post-mordanting 5.212 45.316 7.766 13.273

Harda ,20 % Pre-mordanting 9.001 41.691 7.552 17.852

Meta-Mordanting 6.773 43.614 7.44 14.604

Post-mordanting 6.993 43.937 7.529 13.273

Table 19:1Dyeing of nylon fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract (20% shade) using different
natural mordants and mordanting techniques.

Dyeing of Polyester Fabric

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Dyeing of polyester was performed using chemical and natural mordant and their L, a, b value, k/s
and shades of samples are tabulated in Table 20 and Table …, respectively. It can observed from both
the tables that the dyed samples with eucalyptus leaves extract without any mordant as well as
chemical and natural mordant were in yellow red colour coordinates. It can be compared from data of
previous tables that polyester has less affinity for eucalyptus leaves extract than wool, silk and
nylon as obtained k/s values of polyester dyed samples is comparatively lesser in values. Further
polyester dyed samples with chemical as well as natural mordants were obtained in paler (lighter)
shades as obtained L values are at higher end.

S. No. Fabric Mordant Process k/s L* a* b* Shade of Sample

4 Polyster Undyed 0.026 93.233 -0.264 1.437

Dyed sample with eucalyptus leaves extract 0.398 76.339 2.093 5.836
( 20% shade ) without mordant

Alum, 20 % Pre-mordanting 0.637 72.924 1.26 6.844

Meta-Mordanting 1.022 64.475 4.462 13.253

Post-mordanting 0.605 71.569 1.107 4.98

Copper Sulphate, 20 % Pre-mordanting 0.46 74.573 3.024 5.89

Meta-Mordanting 1.017 66.829 13.76 4.33

Post-mordanting 0.327 76.091 2.186 2.737

Ferrous Sulphate, 20 % Pre-mordanting 0.713 70.792 1.612 6.475

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 Meta-Mordanting 0.821 66.211 1.535 4.939

Post-mordanting 0.4 75.006 3.114 4.097

Table 20 Dyeing of polyester fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract (20% shade) using different
chemical mordants and mordanting technique.
S. No. Fabric Mordant Process k/s L* a* b* Shade of Sample
4 Polyster Pomegranate Rind, 20 Pre-mordanting 0.358 76.807 2.159 4.911
%

Meta-Mordanting 0.678 69.523 1.732 5.36

Post-mordanting 0.419 75.154 2.332 5.111

Aamla, 20 % Pre-mordanting 0.458 75.164 2.134 5.965

Meta-Mordanting 0.419 76.543 1.657 4.98

Post-mordanting 0.637 74.687 1.742 6.844

Harda 20 % Pre-mordanting 0.449 76.292 2.446 7.616

Meta-Mordanting 0.639 71.147 1.744 2.711

Post-mordanting 0.323 76.275 3.407 3.238

Table 20:1 Dyeing of polyester fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract (20% shade) using
different natural mordants and mordanting techniques.

Dyeing of Cotton Fabric

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After completion of dyeing of protein and synthetic fabric dyeing attempts were performed on cotton
fabric. Initially dyeing of cotton was performed using chemical mordant. The L, a, b value, k/s and
shade of samples are tabulated in Table21 It can observed that colour of dyed sample with eucalyptus
leaves extract without any mordant was in yellow red coordinates. Colour variation was observed
when mordants such as alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate were applied to cotton fabric
although all the dyed samples were laying in brown shades of yellow red colour coordinates.

S. Fabric Mordant Process k/s L* a* b* Shade of

No. Sample
5 Cotton Undyed 0.096 90.513 0.615 -4.132

Dyed sample with eucalyptus leaves extract ( 20% shade ) 1.112 65.616 3.159 8.375
without mordant

Alum, 20 % Pre-mordanting 0.707 71.322 3.538 8.504

Meta- 1.263 67.068 4.544 13.227

Mordanting

Post-mordanting 0.435 75.805 1.3 5.648

Copper Sulphate, 20 % Pre-mordanting 1.312 62.924 3.349 9.261

Meta- 2.018 63.007 4.897 17.18

Mordanting

Post-mordanting 0.819 71.616 0.712 10.02

Ferrous Sulphate, 20 % Pre-mordanting 1.315 62.888 3.396 9.222

Meta- 1.119 63.523 0.81 4.891

Mordanting

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 Post-mordanting 1.057 66.293 1.153 8.229

Table 21 Dyeing of cotton fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract (20% shade) using different
chemical mordants and mordanting technique.

Dyeing of cotton fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract were also performed using natural mordants.
The obtained L. a, b values, k/s and shade of dyed samples are tabulated in Table 21:1. It can be
observed that similar to chemical mordant varied brown colour in yellow red coordinates were
obtained for all the natural mordant too. It can be observed that over all k/s values for dyed cotton
samples are varied from 0.435 to 2.018 which is lesser in values than k/s values obtained for wool,
silk and nylon dyed samples. Thus it can be analyzed that cotton has less affinity similar to polyester
fabric for eucalyptus leaves extract than silk, wool and nylon.

S. No. Fabric Mordant Process k/s L* a* b* Shade of Sampl

5 Cotton Pomegranate Rind, 20 % Pre-mordanting 0.95 72.95 3.991 14.386

Meta-Mordanting 0.715 77.212 3.082 14.183

Post-mordanting 0.752 76.795 2.214 14.227

Aamla, 20 % Pre-mordanting 0.905 69.709 2.837 10.475

Meta-Mordanting 0.467 78.973 3.118 10.486

Post-mordanting 0.449 77.141 1.476 7.002

Harda 20 % Pre-mordanting 0.8113 74.256 4.044 13.475

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 Meta-Mordanting 0.826 75.847 2.943 14.754

Post-mordanting 0.841 76.363 1.599 14.951

Table 21:1 Dyeing of cotton fabric with eucalyptus leaves extract (20% shade) using different
natural mordants and mordanting techniques.

Washing, Light and rubbing fastness rating of eucalyptus dyed Cotton, wool, nylon, polyester
and Silk fabrics samples.

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 Washing Fastness Light Rubbing fastness
Fastness

S. no. Fabric Mordant Process Stain on silk Stain on cotton Change in wet Dry
colour

1 Silk Without mordant with eucalyptus 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4

Alum Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 4 4 4

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 5 4 4 4-5

Copper sulphate Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 5 4 4 4

Meta-Mordanting 5 5 4-5 4 4 4

Post-mordanting 4 4 4-5 4 4 4

Ferrous sulphate Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4 4

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 4

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4 3-4

Pomegranate Pre-mordanting 4-5 4 4-5 3-4 3-4 4

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 3-4 3-4 3-4

Post-mordanting 5 4-5 5 4 4 3-4

Amla Pre-mordanting 4 4-5 4/5 3-3 3-3 4

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4 4-5 3-4 3-4 3-3

Post-mordanting 4-5 5 5 3-4 3-4 3-4

Harda Pre-mordanting 4 4-5 4 3-4 3-4 3-4

Meta-Mordanting 5 4-5 5 3-4 3-4 3-4

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3 3 3-4

3

Washing Fastness Light Rubbing fastness

Fastness

S. no. Fabric Mordant Process Stain on silk Stain on Change in wet Dry
cotton colour

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2. wool Without mordant with eucalyptus 4 4 4-5 5 3-4 3-4

Alum Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 3-4 3-4 3-4

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4 4-5 3-4 3 3-4

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 3

Copper sulphate Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3 3-4 3-4

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 3 3-4 3-4

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3 3 3-4

Ferrous sulphate Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 3 3-4 3

Meta-Mordanting 4 4-5 4-5 3 3 3-4

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 3-4 3-4 3

Pomegranate Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 4 3-4

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 3-4 4 4

Post-mordanting 4 4 4-5 3-4 3-4 4

Amla Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 4 3-4

Meta-Mordanting 4 4-5 4 3-4 4 4

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3 4 4

Harda Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 3-4 4 4

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4 4-5 3 4 4

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 Shade 3 4

change

Washing Fastness Light Rubbing fastness

Fastness

S. no. Fabric Mordant Process Stain on Stain on cotton Change in Wet Dry
nylon colour

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 3 nylon Without mordant with eucalyptus 4-5 4-5 4-5 6 4-5 4-5
Alum Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 Shade change 4-5 4-5

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 6 4-5 4-5

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 5 Shade change 4-5 4-5

Copper Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 5 6 4-5 4-5

sulphate
Meta-Mordanting 5 5 4-5 5 5 4-5

Post-mordanting 4 4 4-5 6 4 5

Ferrous Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 Shade change 4-5 4

sulphate

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 6 4-5 4-5

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 Shade change 4-5 4-5

Pomegranate Pre-mordanting 4-5 4 4-5 Shade change 4 4-5

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 Shade change 4-5 4

Post-mordanting 5 4-5 5 Shade change 4-5 4-5

Amla Pre-mordanting 4 4-5 4/5 Shade change 4-5 4-5

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4 4-5 Shade change 4 4-5

Post-mordanting 4-5 5 5 Shade change 5 4

Harda Pre-mordanting 4 4-5 4 Shade change 4-5 5

Meta-Mordanting 5 4-5 5 Shade change 4-5 4-5

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 Shade change 4-5 4-5

Washing Fastness Light Rubbing fastness

Fastness

S. no. Fabric Mordant Process Stain on silk Stain on cotton Change in wet Dry
colour

4. polyester Without mordant with eucalyptus 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

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 Alum Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4

Copper sulphate Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Ferrous sulphate Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Meta-Mordanting 5 4-5 4-5 5 4-5 4-5

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5

Pomegranate Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5

Post-mordanting 4 4 4-5 4 4 4-5

Amla Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4

Meta-Mordanting 4 4-5 4 4 4-5 4-5

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

Harda Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4-5

Meta-Mordanting 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4

Washing Fastness Light Fastness Rubbing Fastness

S. no. Fabric Mordant Process Staining on Staining on Change Wet Dry

wool cotton in colour
5 cotton Without mordant with eucalyptus 4 4-5 4-5 4 3-4 4

Alum Pre-mordanting 4 4-5 4 3-4 4 4

Meta- 4 4-5 4-5 4 4 4
Mordanting
Post-mordanting 4 4-5 4-5 3-4 4 4
Copper Pre-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3 4 4
sulphate Meta- 4 4 4-5 3-4 4 4

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 Mordanting
Post-mordanting 4 4 4-5 4 3-4 4

Ferrous Pre-mordanting 4 4-5 4-5 3-4 4 4

sulphate
Meta- 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 3-4 4
Mordanting
Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 3-4 4

Pomegranate Pre-mordanting 4 4 4-5 3-4 4 4

Meta- 4-5 4-5 4 4 3-4 4

Mordanting
Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4 4 3-4 4

Amla Pre-mordanting 4 4-5 4/5 3-4 4 4

Meta- 4 4 4-5 3-4 4 4

Mordanting
Post-mordanting 4 4 4 3-4 3-4 4

Harda Pre-mordanting 4 4-5 4 3-4 4 4

Meta- 4-5 4-5 4 3 4 4

Mordanting
Post-mordanting 4-5 4-5 4-5 3 4 4

It can observed that all the dyed samples with eucalyptus leaves extract have fair to good wash
fastness and moderated rubbing fastness properties. The dyed samples have poor to fair light fastness
properties. It can be analyzed that natural mordants also gives comparable colour fastness properties
to chemical mordants. Most of the chemical mordants are toxic being heavy metals and causing
severe pollution. Thus natural dyeing can be performed sustainably without using any chemicals by
the use of natural mordants.

Scores for wash fastness and rubbing fastness: 5-Excellent, 4-very Good,
3- Fair to Good, 2- Poor, 1- Very Poor [21].
Scores for light fastness: 1- Very Poor; 2-Poor; 3- Moderate; 4- Fairly good; 5-Good; 6- Very good;
7- Excellent; 8- Outstanding.

6.2 DEVELOPED DRESSES USING EUCALYTUS DYED TEXTILES:

Various sustainable dresses were prepared from different fabric samples dyed with eucalyptus leaves
extract using Pomegranate peel, Harda, Amla powder, alum, copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate as
mordants. The present study is inspired from Indian designers and national and international brands.
[22,23]
Which were fully natural with their soothing colors .The methods of dress creation are explained
below:

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High low hem top- The wool and nylon fabric was used as the base material for making high low
hem top. The base material was dyed by Meta mordanting with pomegranate peel and eucalyptus.
The pearls were used on dress for decorative purpose such as round neckline. The stylish high low
hem top is inspired by Indian one piece party wear dress. It is soft, smooth and restful to human eye.
This party wear high low hem top is shown in figure 22. The dress is developed by using the sample
having highest colour values as explained in table. It is prepared for the persons of 18-20 age groups.

Figure-22 Dyes with colours extracted from eucalyptus by Meta mordanting with pomegranate
peel

Peplum dress- – wool, silk and polyester fabric was dyed by Meta mordanting with amla powder and
eucalyptus dye. The dyed fabric was used as the base material to prepare a peplum inspired by
western clothing. The off white colors of pearls were attached on the front part of peplum dress for an
attractive look. The peplum dress was developed according to suitable colour choice as all the
obtained dyed shades were attractive. Beside this, a bow was prepared using polyester this designed

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dress is developed for the persons of 18-20 age groups in fig.23.

Figure 23: Eucalyptus dyed wool, silk and polyester fabric based Peplum dress

Angel wings dress- The angle wings dress was prepared from wool and nylon fabric. The fabric of
angle wings dress was dyed by eucalyptus dye using Harda via Meta mordanting method this angle
wings dress is inspired by party wear dress. It has a modernalized look and was prepared for the

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persons of 18 - 20 age groups. Nylon fabric dyed by Meta mordanting with Harda and eucalyptus dye
was used for draping. The sketch by which dress was inspired and actual dress is shown in Fig.24

Figure-24 Eucalyptus dyed wool and nylon based Angle wings dress
Kaftans top-silk and nylon fabric was used as the base material and dyed with colour extracted from
eucalyptus by Meta pomegranate peel as a mordant. The designed kaftans was inspired by hanker
chief cut dress shape in Fig. 25.The dyed fabric was used for making a kaftans top. After completion
of kaftans top, edges were made by natural dyed silk fabric using pearl. The kaftans top is soft and

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smooth with sophisticated colour. It is prepared for the persons of 6-9 age groups. -

Figure-25 Eucalyptus dyed silk and nylon fabric based Kaftans top

Cut out waist one piece dress- cotton fabric as the base material was used to make a cut out waist
one piece dress. The fabric was dyed by Meta mordanting with alum and eucalyptus dye. The dyed

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fabric was selected according to choice because all the obtained shades of dyed cotton were beautiful
and different to each other. The peals were attached to one piece dress for an attractive appearance.
The designed dress is inspired by western party wear styles. It falls under the category of occasional
wear. It is developed for the persons of 18-20 age groups. The designed dress is soft, smooth and
lustrous which is shown below in Fig 26.

Figure-26 Eucalyptus dyed cotton based cut out waist one piece dress
Two piece bottle dress- Silk fabrics was dyed by eucalyptus leaves extract using Meta mordanting
with pomegranate peel and used for preparing upper blouse of the dress. The polyester fabric
swatches which were used in dress were dyed by eucalyptus leaves extract using meta, pre and post
mordanting methods with all six mordants. The dyed fabric was used according to suitability as all
the obtained colour shades of dyed fabric were different to each other and beautiful. It is prepared for
the persons of 18-20 age groups. This casual designed dress is inspired by party wear dress as shown
in Fig.27.

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Figure–27 : Eucalyptus dyed silk and polyester fabric based two piece bottle dresses
Tube top- Nylon fabric as the base material was used to make a tube top inspired by Indian party
wear. Nylon fabric was dyed by Meta mordanting with pomegranate peel and eucalyptus dye. The
cotton dyed fabric was used as a stripe on neckline of tube top. Various pearls were used on dyed
stripes of top. The tube top was prepared for the persons of 18- 20 age group as shown in Fig. 28.

Figure-28 Eucalyptus dyed Nylon fabric based Tube top

4. CONCLUSION

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The result of the study shows that eucalyptus leaves extract can be used successfully for dyeing of
cotton, silk, wool, nylon and polyester. It was found that silk, wool and nylon have better affinity for
dye as compared to cotton and polyester. It can be concluded from the above study that renewable
eucalyptus leaves which are a huge wastage can be better attributes for sustainable textile dyeing.
Natural mordants like pomegranate peel powder, Harda and amla powder are also renewable and
make the process more eco-friendly. All the dyed samples with eucalyptus leaves extract have a wide
range of brown colour shades in yellow-red colour coordinates with moderate to good fastness
properties. Dress designs from the above dyed textiles can make a pioneer in eco/green fashion.
Therefore eucalyptus leaves extract can work as wonders in sustainable dress design.

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