TVL AFA Organic Agriculture11 - Q2 - Module1

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7
11
TVL – ORGANIC
AGRICULTURE
Quarter 2 – Module 1
Produce Organic Fertilizers
Photo credited from Sikatuna National Agricultural High School, Talibon, Bohol
LEARNING OUTCOME 1
Prepare Composting Area and Raw Materials
LEARNING OUTCOME 2
Compost and Harvest Fertilizer
Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 1

TVL – Grade 11
Alternative Delivery Mode
Quarter 2 – Module 1: Produce Organic Fertilizer
First Edition, 2020
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Published by the Department of Education

Secretary: Leonor Magtolis Briones
Undersecretary: Diosdado M. San Antonio
Development Team of the Module
Writer: Eudoxio P. Munalem, Leonora S. Auza, Lydia O. Bajao, Evelina R. Tiempo

Anecita M. Remedio
Editors: Marifel Bernales, Grace P. Mendez
Reviewers: Zenaida P. Miano, Gina B. Castaňares, Delia G. Rafols, Delilah C. Atup
Leah Vanessa Aton, Restilou Q. Artiaga Ph.D., Armingol M. Estremos
Jocelyn T. Rotersos
Illustrators:
Layout Artist:
Management Team: Bianito A. Dagatan Ed.D CESO V
Casiana P. Caberte Ph.D CESE
Marina S. Salamanca Ph.D CESE
Carmela M. Restificar Ph.D
Grace P. Mendez Ph.D
Department of Education – Region VII, Division of Bohol
Office Address: 50 Lino Chatto Drive, Barangay Cogon, Tagbilaran City
Telefax:
E-mail Address: deped.bohol@deped.gov.ph

What I Need to Know
This module was designed and written with you in mind. It is here to help you
understand Organic Agriculture. The scope of this module permits it to be used in many
different learning situations. The language used recognizes the diverse vocabulary level of
students. The lessons are arranged to follow the standard sequence of the course.
The module covers the ways and steps in producing organic fertilizer.
After going through this module, you are expected to:

LO 1. Prepare composting area and raw materials
1.1 Select site based on compost fertilizer production requirement
1.2 Prepare site layout based on location
1.3 Prepare bed according to production requirements
1.4 Gather materials for organic fertilizer based on production requirements set by
the Philippine National Standard.
The module covers the Introduction/ Learning Objectives, Pre-Assessment, Lesson Proper,
Generalization, Application, Post Assessment, Additional Activity (optional).
What I Know
Let us determine how much you learned about producing organic fertilizer. Take this
test.
I - Prepare composting area and raw materials

Direction: Enumerate the following.
1 - 5. Characteristics of composting area

6 -10. Tools used in composting
11-15. Materials used in producing organic fertilizer

What’s New
Importance of composting
Sangalang, et.al (1977) claim that the composting process involves the
decomposition of organic materials to form small bits of organic matter called compost.
The whole process is done by organisms that use organic matter principally as a source of
carbon and secondarily as a source of nitrogen and other elements for their growth and
reproduction.
If the organic matter contains little or no N, the microorganism gets it from the soil.
A majority of the decomposers are microorganism. Microorganisms such as earthworms,
termite, and other insects also contribute in breaking down organic materials. Therefore,
the two requirements for the process to occur are (1) composting materials and (2)
decomposers to speed up the process. The composting materials must be easy to
decompose, and the needs of the microorganisms must be adequately supplied.
What do compost organisms need?
According to INGO (2005), the needs of the compost organisms are:

1. Balanced diet of compost materials
 “Browns” – Browns are compost materials that are brown and dry.
Examples of which are sawdust, dried leaves, straw and small twigs, and
others. “Browns” are high in carbon, which for microbes are energy food.
 “Greens” – Greens are compost materials that are green and moist like
kitchen wastes, grass cuttings, and the like. “Greens” are high in nitrogen,
which microbes need to make proteins
Composition of a balanced diet of compost organisms
If you add about 3 parts of browns to 1 part of greens, then the compost
organisms will have a balanced diet.
2. Right amount of air and water

If there is the right amount of oxygen and moisture, microbes can rapidly
grow and multiply. If there is too much or too little water, then the microbes die.
Compost materials should have a thin film of water around them, and many
pore spaces filled with air.
3. Right temperature
Organic materials will eventually decay even in a cold compost pile. However,
the decay process is sped up in a hot compost pile. When bacteria and fungi grow
rapidly, they burn a lot of food, and give off a lot of heat. If the compost pile is big
enough, the heat will build up inside the pile. Bacteria that grow well at high
temperature take over and speed up the decay process.

Site selection in Organic Compost preparation
The space is most important requirement for composting preparation.

1. A shaded flat piece of land is most ideal for compost preparation.
2. Site space should include a sorting place and proximity to water source.
3. Labor requirement in Organic Compost preparation
After selection of site, the most important is a labor intensive activity and labor
requirement need to be planned for carefully taking into each step of compost
preparation. It is necessary to consult with someone with good knowledge in compost
preparation.
What I can do
Performance Task No. 1
Answer the following questions:

1. As claimed by Sangalang, what is involved in the composting process?
2. What are the two processes of breaking down the composting materials?
3. Describe how site selection of composting area done?
Proposed Conceptual Site Design
In the review, many factors were considered with an 1 awareness for budget
limitations and space constraints. I proposed common methods to increase the
throughput of the operation.
The use of chamber walls eliminates void space between piles, saving space.
Additionally, forced aeration reduces the need for aisle space for equipment to manually
turn the piles.
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www.asiafarming.com/organic-compost-preparation-methods
Developing a stage approach to composting gives the farm a framework to follow.
Piles are constructed in two stages: 1 chamber composted for 3 to 4 weeks. After that,
material in Stage 1 is transferred to a Stage 2 chamber. Again, after 2 to 3 weeks the
Stage 2 pile moves to a curing chamber. After piles have cured, they can be screened to
various product sizes and stored for use or sale. Dedicated bays are provided for browns
storage. Browns storage have access to both sides to allow for a “first-in-first-out” flow of
materials.
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What I can do
Matching Type: Match column A with B. Choose the letter of the best answer and write it
on the answer sheet.
Column A Column B
1. Use of chamber walls a. composted 3 to 4 weeks
2. Chamber 1 b. eliminates void space between piles, saving space
3. 2 to 3 weeks after c. for a first- in-first-out flow of materials
4. Cured composted piles d. piles move to curing chamber
5. Use of brown storage e. screen to sizing and stored for use

Preparation of bed in Organic Compost preparation
Prepare a bed with a concrete, wood or plastic sheet bottom and construct walls 20
cm to 30 cm in height using wood, logs, stones or any appropriate material especially if
recoverable from the waste. Place a wooden board across the bottom and line
with chicken wire for better handling and aeration.
The layering procedure resembles the windrow composting. You should place a 10
cm to 15 cm layer of coarse organic materials such as banana trash, coffee husks, maize
stover and other crop / plant residues on top of the chicken wire. The materials must not
contain chicken manure as the uric acid is harmful to the worms.
Composted poultry manure is however suitable as feed.
Place a 5 cm to 10 cm layer of manure on top of the coarse material. Cattle,

pig, sheep and goat manures are suitable and preferred. Green manure, such as tree
leaves or grass cuttings may be used as well. Mixing grass cuttings, bean threshing, maize
or wheat bran and brewery waste are recommended. If the fine material is in short supply,
then apply it to specific areas where the earth worms are placed in the compost pile.
Add water to material in Organic Compost preparation
Moisten the organic materials prior to the introduction of the worms. Sufficient
water should be applied so that pockets of dried material remain. Wet materials such as
banana trash and fresh manure need little watering while dried materials may require as
much as 30 liters per m3 of bed.
Cover the bed with Organic Compost preparation
Cover the bed with plant materials or dark polythene sheet. Make sure to check the
bed at regular intervals during composting phase for moisture and plant residues or
leaves used to cover the bed as earthworms can eat the older organic materials.
Earthworms do not like direct light, control this by keeping the beds covered. Ants will
usually leave the bed if the underlying chicken wire is violently and repeatedly shaken.
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Urban Composting Site Design | Conscious Compost (conscious-compost.com)

What I can do
Word Select: Choose the best answer in the box and write it in your answer sheet.
appropriate material chicken manure chicken wire

green manure height plant residues preferred manure windrow composting
___ 1. Construct wall 20 to 30 cm using wood, logs, stones or any appropriate material
___ 2. Use of wood, logs, and stones
___ 3. For better handling and aeration
___ 4. Resembles layer coarse of organic material
___ 5. Materials such as banana trash, coffee husks, or maize residue
___ 6. Uric acid is harmful to the worms
___ 7. Layer of manure on top of the coarse material like cattle, pig, sheep and goat
___ 8. Tree leaves, or grass cuttings, or bean threshing
Requirements in gathering composting materials
Almost any organic material is suitable for composting.

Your composter or compost pile needs a proper ratio of carbon-rich materials, or
“browns,” and nitrogen-rich materials, or “greens.” Among the brown materials are dried
leaves, straw, and wood chips. Nitrogen materials are fresh or green, such as grass
clippings.
Mixing certain types of materials or changing the proportions can make a difference
in the rate of decomposition. Achieving the best mix is more an art gained through
experience than an exact science. The ideal ratio approaches 25 parts browns to 1 part
greens. Judge the amounts roughly equal by weight. Too much carbon will cause the pile
to break down too slowly, while too much nitrogen can cause odor. The carbon provides
energy for the microbes, and the nitrogen provides proteins and kitchen scraps.
Leaves represent a large percentage of total yard waste. If you can grind them in a
gas or electric leaf shredder or mow over them, they will reduce in size making them
easier to store until you can use them in the pile, and they will decompose faster – an
issue with larger leaves. They are loaded with minerals brought up from the tree roots and
are a natural source of carbon. A few leaf species such as live oak, southern magnolia,
and holly trees are too tough and leathery for easy composting. Avoid all parts of the black
walnut tree as they contain a plant poison that survives composting. Eucalyptus leaves
can be toxic to other plants.

Grass Clippings break down quickly and contain as much nitrogen manure. Since
fresh grass clippings will clump together, become anerobic, and start to smell, mix them
with plenty of brown materials. If you have a lot of grass clippings to compost, spread
them on surface to bake in the sun for at least a day. Once it begins to turn pale or straw-
like, it can be used without danger of souring. Avoid grass clippings that contain pesticide
or herbicide residue, unless a steady rain has washed the residue from the grass blades.
Kitchen Refuse includes melon rinds, carrot peelings, tea bags, apple cores,

banana peels – almost everything that cycles through your kitchen. The average
household produces more than 200 pounds of kitchen waste every year. You can
successfully compost all forms of kitchen waste. However, meat, meat products, dairy
products, and high-fat foods like salad dressings and peanut butter, can present
problems. Meat scraps and the rest will decompose eventually, but will smell bad and
attract pests. Egg shells are a wonderful addition, but decompose slowly, so should be
crushed. All additions to the compost pile will decompose more quickly if they are
chopped up some before adding.
Wood Ashes from a wood burning stove or fireplace can be added to the compost
pile. Ashes are alkaline, so add no more than 2 gallon-sized buckets-full to a pile with
3’x3’x3′ dimensions. They are especially high in potassium. Don’t use coal ashes, as they
usually contain large amounts of sulfur and iron that can injure your plants. Used
charcoal briquettes don’t decay much at all, so it’s best not to use them.
Garden Refuse should make the trip to the pile. All of the spent plants, thinned
seedlings, and deadheaded flowers can be included. Most weeds and weed seeds are killed
when the pile reaches an internal temperature above 130 degrees, but some may survive.
To avoid problems don’t compost weeds with persistent root systems, and weeds that are
going to seed.
Spoiled Hay or Straw makes an excellent carbon base for a compost pile,

especially in a place where few leaves are available. Hay contains more nitrogen than
straw. They may contain weed seeds, so the pile must have a high interior temperature.
The straw’s little tubes will also keep the pile breathing.
Manure is one of the finest materials you can add to any compost pile. It contains
large amounts of both nitrogen and beneficial microbes. Manure for composting can come
from bats, sheep, ducks, pigs, goats, cows, pigeons, and any other vegetarian animal. As a
rule of thumb, you should avoid manure from carnivores, as it can contain dangerous
pathogens. Most manures are considered “hot” when fresh, meaning it is so rich in
nutrients that it can burn the tender roots of young plants or overheat a compost pile,
killing off earthworms and friendly bacteria. If left to age a little, however, these materials
are fine to use.
Seaweed is an excellent source of nutrient-rich composting material. Use the hose

to wash off the salt before sending it to the compost pile.

What I can do
A. TRUE/FALSE: Write the word true if the statement is correct and false if it wrong.
Write your answer in the answer sheet.
1. All organic materials are suitable for composting.

2. Compost piles need only carbon-rich materials.
3. Composts are browns and green materials.
4. Nitrogen materials are fresh or green, such as grass clippings.
5. Mixing certain types of materials can make a difference in the rate of
decomposition.
B. Matching type: Match column A with B. Write the letter as best answer in the
paper.
Column A Column B
6. The ideal ratio of compost materials a. can cause odor
7. To determine the amount composting
ratio b. cause the piles decompose slowly
8. Too much carbon composts c. provide energy for the microbes
9. Too much nitrogen composts d. provide proteins
10.The carbon composts e. 25 parts brown to 1 part green
f. weight
C. Answer the questions below.
11. What are grass clippings?
12. Name at least three kitchen refused used as composts.
13. Wood ash is one of the compost materials used in composting. What is in the
wood ash that benefit the plant to grow?
14. Weeds and weed seeds are killed and decomposed when the pile reaches an
internal temperature above 130 degrees. Why do seeds with persistent root system
and weeds going to seeds not advisable to use as compost materials?
15. Manure for composting can come from bats, sheep, ducks, pigs, goats, cows,
pigeons, and any other vegetarian animal. Why manures from carnivores are
discouraged to use in composting?

3
What I Need to Know
This module was designed and written with you in mind. It is here to help you
understand Organic Agriculture. The scope of this module permits it to be used in many
different learning situations. The language used recognizes the diverse vocabulary level of
students. The lessons are arranged to follow the standard sequence of the course.
The module covers the ways and steps in producing organic fertilizer.
After going through this module, you are expected to:
LO 2. Compost and harvest fertilizer

2.1. Apply appropriate composting method based on production requirements
2.2. Monitor compost based on PNS indications of fully decomposed fertilizer
2.3. Check quality of harvest based on PNS indications of fully decomposed
fertilizer
2.4. Carry out processing of compost fertilizer based on production requirements
What I Know
Let us determine how much you already know about producing organic fertilizer.
Take this test.
1 - 5. Materials used in harvesting compost fertilizer

6 -10. Tools used in harvesting compost fertilizer
11-15. Storage requirements in harvested compost fertilizer
3
AFA 10 Horticulture LM Module 5
What’s New
Harvesting, Drying, and Storing.
After 45-60 days the vermi compost can be harvested by passing the composted
materials through a sieve to separate the worms from the decomposed leaves. The worms
can be recycled into other composting beds or made into vermi-meal. The compost should
be spread-over to dry for one day ready for sale. The vermi-cast is then prepared for
packaging. The final products are placed in bags ready for storage, distribution or for use.
TIPS:
Compost is ready to use when it is dark brown, crumbly, and has an
earthy smell.
 Manual extraction. Pick worms by hand and transfer them to a new wormbed.
The vermicompost may be allowed to dry in the shade for a few days
 Pyramid of Egypt. Under the shade, pile the vermicompost in such a manner
that it looks like a pyramid. After a day, you can harvest the top part easily
because the worms have gone to the bottom of the pile. When you reach the
bottom of the pile, you can extract the worms manually.
 Migration. Move the contents of the whole bed to one side. Fill the empty half
with new substrate as food. Allow the worms to move freely to the new food.

Methods of composting
Composting is the rotting down of plant and animal residues before it is applied to
the soil. The following are the different methods of composting adapted from
http://www.compostjunkie.com/composting-techniques.html.
What I can do
Sheet Composting
“Sheet composting, also known as sheet mulching, can be a great way to add
organic matter back into your soils. Essentially, this composting technique entails
spreading thin layers of organic materials (i.e. compost ingredients) on top of the soil
surface. Some also consider this technique to be "composting in place." Using green
manure is another means of sheet composting. This technique is often used on a large
scale; however, it can also be done successfully in your backyard.”
Procedure:
1. Spread organic matter in layers over the garden area to be composted, similar to
traditional composting, and allow it to compost where it sits. The area can be
large or small even just a single row. Potatoes are fond of organic rich soil and
like ground prepared in this fashion so it is an excellent way of fertilizing
potatoes

1. Perform sheet composting at home and follow the procedures. Support your
work activities with videos or pictures as mode of verification. Send these in our
learning group chat.
In-vessel Composting
“In-vessel composting is becoming more and more popular with large-scale compost
producers. This method involves composting within an enclosed containment system,
often a large cylindrical-shaped container. The equipment involved in setting up an in-
vessel composting system is typically quite expensive, and therefore usually limits it's
usage to industrial-sized composting operations. There are numerous benefits of in-vessel
composting, such as an increased processing speed, year-round composting, and a highly
controlled environment.”
Procedure:
In-vessel composting (IVC) can be used to treat food and garden waste mixtures. These
systems ensure that composting takes place in an enclosed environment, with accurate
temperature control and monitoring.
How does in vessel composting work?
In vessel composting has three stages before the compost is screened for use.
Photo
Stage 1
The food waste, which comes primarily from local authority waste collections, either
separate or already mixed with garden waste, as well as commercial and industrial
sources, is delivered to an enclosed reception area.
Firstly, any contamination such as plastic bags or metal cans are removed before it
is shredded to a uniform size and loaded into what is known as the first ‘barrier’, which

will be a bay/tunnel etc. depending on the system used. All the material delivered to a
facility, plus the first barrier stage, is considered a ‘dirty area’ under ABPR. The
regulations ensure that strict procedures are in place to prevent cross-contamination of
‘clean areas’ (where product is processed and stored) from ‘dirty areas’.
The composting process is kick-started by naturally occurring micro-organisms

already in the waste. They break down the material, releasing the nutrients and in doing
so they increase the temperature to the 60-70ºC needed to kill pathogens and weed seeds,
and meet the regulations for processing ABP material.
Stage 2
Stage two normally lasts between seven days and three weeks. The material is
transferred to the second ‘barrier’, where the composting process continues.
Processing in two stages ensures that all parts of the composting mass reaches the
required temperature. The oxygen level, moisture and temperature are carefully
monitored and controlled during both composting stages to ensure the material is fully
sanitized.
Stage 3
Once the sanitization process is complete the compost is left to mature in an open window
or an enclosed area for approximately 10-14 weeks to ensure stabilization.
[ CITATION www201 \l 1033 ]
Answer the questions below.

1. What is In-vessel composting?
2. Answer briefly. How is this In-vessel composting done?
3. Is In-vessel composting applicable in our locality? If yes, how? If not, why?
Anaerobic Composting
“Anaerobic composting describes the biological breakdown of organic materials by

living anaerobic organisms. This may not be the most odor composting method, but it can
4
https://www.zerowastescotland.org.uk/content/what-vessel-composting

be quite effective. Some of the benefits of composting anaerobically include the following:
it is one of the most basic means of producing compost; it can be done on a small scale;
and it typically produces more humus per unit of starting material than most other
composting methods.”
Procedure:
Select a sunny site with good drainage. Sunshine helps raise the bin temperature
and keep the microbes happy. Drainage is crucial to ensure the correct moisture level. If
you have only heavy, clay soils, build a mound of dirt incorporating plenty of pebbles and
situate your digester on top.
Source: Anaerobic Composting. RecyclingMakesSense.org
1. Perform anaerobic composting at home and follow the procedures. Support your
work activities with videos or pictures and send these in group chat.
Trench Composting
“Trench composting involves digging holes in your garden soil and burying raw
compost ingredients. Some people swear by this method, whereas others want nothing to

do with it. Similar to anaerobic composting, this method of decomposition is quite simple;
however, the materials tend to take longer to breakdown than when using other
composting techniques.”
Procedure:
Step 1: Find a Location

You'll want to find a good location; preferably a place where it is easy to get to from
where you'll be producing the biodegradable material (often from your kitchen) and where
you want the soil to be enriched (like a garden or future garden).
Step 2: Dig a Hole
Dig a hole big enough to put some biodegradable material

into. You're going to want to make it deep enough so that at least 6
inches of dirt ends up on top of your matter so make it 10-20
inches deep.
It is very efficient to pre-dig and do a long trench.
Photo credited from the web
Step 3: Set Displaced Dirt Aside
Be sure not to scatter the dirt that you're digging up. Set it aside in a pile for
covering up your compost later.
Step 4: Save Scraps or Yard Waste
If you haven't done so already, save up veggie peels and other food scraps to put in
the hole. You'll get lots of advice about what you can and can't put in compost, but we put
almost everything in there.
From what I understand, it is dangerous to use feces of animals that are capable of eating
meat (so not even feces of vegetarian dogs).
I know people who put used facial tissue or paper towels in there. I'd also stay away from
newspaper and other printed papers; again, think about what goes into the material and
make your own choices.
Step 5: Cover Up the Biodegradable Material with the Reserved Dirt
You can put dirt on the biodegradable material as you go, or do a bunch at once.
You might want to keep a shovel by the trench.

Step 6: Let It Be!
Let the microbes and worms and insects do their job! Depending upon your soil
type, how much water gets in there and the temperature, you should have beautiful earth
in less than a year.
When we trench, I'll plant small seed flowers or a 'green manure' crop on top of it the first
year and rototill it in the next spring. Read more about green manure crops; they're
amazing.
Trench Compost : 7 Steps - Instructables
1. What is trench composting?

2. Perform this trench composting at home and follow the procedures. Support your
work activities with videos or pictures. Send these in group chat.
3. Is trench composting applicable in our locality? Why?
Bokashi Composting
“Bokashi is a Japanese term meaning fermented organic matter. Therefore, bokashi

composting describes the making of compost via fermentation. To achieve optimal
results, your compost materials are inoculated with a microbial starter culture, and
placed inside a sealed container. These starter cultures consist of several different
species of microorganisms, all of which thrive in anaerobic conditions. One of the most
popular microbial inoculants is called Effective Microorganisms or EM.”
Procedure:
Bokashi One

1. Position the plastic grate on the ledge near the bottom of the bucket with the knob
upright. Make sure the tap is in the off position.
2. Place your kitchen waste in the bucket and sprinkle a handful of Bokashi One Mix
over every layer of waste. As a guide, use approximately 1 tablespoon of mix for
every cup of waste. Use more Bokashi One Mix when adding high protein foods, eg
meat, fish, cheese and eggs. Check that the lid is closed tightly at all times.
Photo credited from www.bokashi.com

3. Regularly drain the Bokashi juice produced using the tap at the base of the
bucket.
4. Repeat this layering process until the Bokashi One bucket is full.
5. Once full, the waste is ready to be buried.
6. If you have two Bokashi One buckets, begin the process again in your second
bucket, allowing the contents of the first bucket to continue to ferment. Continue to
drain off the bokashi juice regularly.
7. Wash your Bokashi one bucket after each use.
1. What is Bokashi?
2. What is Bokashi composting?
3. How is Effective Microorganism or EM used in Bokashi composting?
Composting Barrels

“Composting barrels, or compost tumblers, are a great composting technique for
backyard growers. They are self-contained, clean, and if big enough, can produce a fair
amount of compost in a short period.”
“You can buy composting barrels from a commercial supplier or you save your
money and make one yourself.”
Procedure:
1. Clean your barrel garden hose, soft-bristle brush and mild dish detergent.
2. Let the barrel air-dry.
3. Drill holes in your barrel to allow for air

circulation.
4. Add water to the compost barrel until it become

moist, but not soaking wet.
5. Take your compost barrel off the wooden

platform every three to five days and roll it
around. This adds oxygen and encourages
decomposition.
6. Set your barrel up on a wooden platform in a

location that receives direct sunlight. The sun
will heat up the contents in the barrel, helping
them to decompose at a faster rate.
7. Fill your compost barrel with organic material.

This can include grass clippings, leaves, kitchen scraps, shredded newspaper, cow
manure, horse manure and hay.
www.gardenguides.com/120497-compost-barrel.html
[ CITATION Ali17 \l 1033 ]
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Alicia Bodine 21 September, 2017

1. What is composting barrels?
2. Is this composting barrel applicable in our locality? If yes, how? If not, why?
What I can do
Vermicomposting
Composting is the process of converting organic materials like leaves and

animal manure into “humus” an organic matter through decomposition by the action
of microbes and other organisms. Humus is rich in nutrients and contributes to soil
texture and water retention.
According to Lomat (undated), normal decomposition of grass cuttings can
take up to six months. However, this can be accelerated to as short as 30 – 45 days
by the use of earthworms to digest the organic materials. This is called
vermicomposting (vermis in Latin) that yield beneficial by-products known as
vermicompost or vermicast. In a single process, two products are produced: the
vermicast which is pure worm excreta and the worm biomass.
The production of vermi compost is timely since inorganic fertilizer is now
becoming very expensive and there is also an increasing demand for organically
produced agricultural crops. An added benefit is that the earthworm can be made into
high protein animal and fish feed supplement.
Procedure:
Steps in vermicomposting
a. Gathering of materials
Composting materials such as rice straw, grass, leaves, kitchen
wastes, animal manure, and used mushroom substrate will be
collected and shredded as the earthworm may not be able to digest
them effectively. After which, some animal manures will be added to
increase the nitrogen content of the materials.
b. Selecting the site
The site should be airy, dry, near water source, and raw materials for
the food of the earthworms. The temperature of the area should be around
260C
c. Selecting the worm housing

Vermi bed/Wormbed, Courtesy of Bukig National Agricultural & Technical School (BNATS-Aparri)
Vermi bed/wormbeds may be made out of different materials like iron bars, old plastic
basins, split bamboo, or hollow blocks.
Windrows
Windrows are piles of substrates that are decomposed before feeding them to the
worms. They are usually about one meter wide and at least a meter high and can be of
any length as desired.
Preparation of beddings
Bedding is the living medium for the worms and also a food source. A wide variety
of bedding materials can be used including newspapers, sawdust, rice straw, pre
composted manure, and dried leaves. After preparing the bedding materials, they should
be subjected to either anaerobic or aerobic decomposition.
Anaerobic decomposition (10-14 days)
Arrange the bedding materials or substrate into a bed about two (2) feet high under
partial shade like a tree. Cover the bed with plastic for two weeks for anaerobic
decomposition by bacteria and fungi present in the material until the temperature will
rise to about 70°C
Aerobic decomposition (30-35 days)

Remove the plastic cover when the temperature of the bed cools. The media should
smell sweet.
Maintenance of the worm beds

When the bedding materials reached the moisture content of about 60-80%
(when a fistful is squeezed a few drops of water should fall), the earthworms will be
placed on top at the rate of 1 kg per square meter. Put sidings of hollow blocks or
sawali. Protect against birds, cats, rats etc., as well as heavy rains as nutrients will
leach.
1. Select one among of the methods of composting applicable and recommended in

the locality and perform following the procedures. Support your work activities with

videos or pictures and send these to group chat.
What I can do
Methods of Harvesting Vermicompost fertilizer
Common methods of harvesting vermicompost or vermicast from a heap or pile are

briefly described below. Any method may be adopted exclusively by preference, subject to
some limitations. Otherwise, two or more methods may be applied on the same pile.
Except for the first method, the rest is intended for harvesting in bulk at one time.
1. Gradual, Manual Harvesting of Vermicompost

This method is practiced where a gardener wishes to collect small amounts of
vermicast just a few days after the compost pile is stocked with composting worms. This
becomes a resort when, for example, the gardener finds need of organic soil amendment
as ingredient in preparing a fertile potting mix. In this case the pile has not been fully
decomposed but the top is covered with a thin layer of vermicast.
The earthworm casts on top of the pile are simply gathered by hand or with a
trowel and transferred directly into a container. Otherwise, vermicasts are first moved to
the center of the pile to form a single heap and then scooped into a container.
Earthworms, if any, are picked individually and returned to the compost pile.
2. Bulk Harvesting by Pyramidal Heap

The vermicompost is first gathered to form a pyramid- or cone-like heap within the
composting enclosure provided that the heap is exposed to light. Otherwise, the
vermicompost is transferred on to a flat surface elsewhere in open sun over which a
plastic sheet or sack or some other substitute is spread.
This method of harvesting vermicompost takes advantage of the earthworms’

sensitivity to light (and heat). If the pyramid is exposed to bright light, the earthworms will
tend to move deep into the pyramid.
Vermicomposts from the bottom, sides, and top surface of the heap are then
collected by hand or with a trowel. A few minutes are allowed to pass to provide sufficient
time for the earthworms to move deeper and another cycle (harvesting-resting) is
commenced.

For faster rate of harvesting vermicompost, the original heap is better divided into
several smaller pyramids. Harvesting is rotated among the pyramids so that after
harvesting, one is rested and the next cycle goes to another pyramid.
3. Screening or Sieving
This method of harvesting vermicompost can be applied anytime of the day or even
at night. It also has the advantage of ease in
separating the vermicompost, undecomposed
substrates, and earthworms from each other.
This can be done manually using the
same fabricated tool used in screening out
rough sand for masonry work. This tool
consists of mesh wire nailed on wood.
A small portion of the pile is first
transferred into a screener (or sieve or sifter)
which is positioned above a container (for
example a wheelbarrow) or concrete flooring
or flat ground over which a sheet is spread.
The screener is shaken so that fine
vermicompost falls toward the ground. Any
undecomposed subtrates which are retained
in the screener and the earthworms are
separated manually.
Lyster Gaviola and Junmer Caceres harvested vermicompost
with the use of a screen.
4. Harvesting by Inducing the Migration of Earthworms

This method of harvesting vermicompost is based on earthworms’ ability to
detect sources of food. They also have the habit of abandoning the pile exhausted of
food and moving towards more palatable source.
[ CITATION Ben19 \l 1033 ]
Matching Type: Match column A with B. Write the letter as your best answer
in your paper.
Column A Column B
___ 1. This method is practiced where a. bulk harvesting
a gardener wishes to collect small
amount of vermicast
___ 2. The vermicompost is first gathered b. earthworms move deep into the
to form a pyramid- or cone-like heap pyramid
___ 3. The pyramid is exposed to bright light c. gradual, manual harvesting

___ 4. Fast rate of harvesting d. heap is divided to several
smaller pyramid
___ 5. Harvesting vermicompost is done anytime

of the day or at night e. harvesting by inducing migration
___ 6. The screener or siever is shaken
manually f. partial extraction with net bag
___ 7. Earthworms are abandoning the
exhausted piles to find out
other palatable source of food g. screening or sieving
___ 8. Harvesting technique by filling an
Onion bag with fresh food and bury it
In the middle of the bed h. to make fine vermicompost
falls toward the ground
Other way of harvesting vermicompost
Partial Extraction with Net bag
Procedure:
1. Fill an onion bag with fresh food and bury it in

the middle of the bed. After a week or so, the
bag will be filled with worms that you can empty
to a new worm bed. This facilitates the gathering
of worms.
Photo credited from DepEd AFA 10
Composting materials showing the presence of carbon and nitrogen

(http://eartheasy.com/grow_compost.htm)
Material Carbon/Nitrogen Information

table scraps Nitrogen add with dry carbon items
fruit & vegetable
Nitrogen add with dry carbon items
scraps
eggshells Neutral best when crushed
leaves Carbon leaves break down faster when shredded
grass clippings Nitrogen add in thin layers so they don't mat into clumps
garden plants -- use disease-free plants only
lawn & garden
Nitrogen only use weeds which have not gone to seed
weeds
shrub prunings Carbon woody prunings are slow to break down
straw or hay Carbon straw is best; hay (with seeds) is less ideal
green comfrey Nitrogen excellent compost 'activator'

leaves
pine needles Carbon acidic; use in moderate amounts
flowers, cuttings Nitrogen chop up any long woody stems
apply in thin layers; good source for trace
seaweed and kelp Nitrogen
minerals
only use ash from clean materials; sprinkle
wood ash Carbon
lightly
chicken manure Nitrogen excellent compost 'activator'
coffee grounds Nitrogen filters may also be included
tea leaves Nitrogen loose or in bags
newspaper Carbon avoid using glossy paper and colored inks
shredded paper Carbon avoid using glossy paper and colored inks
cardboard Carbon shred material to avoid matting
corn cobs, stalks Carbon slow to decompose; best if chopped up
dryer lint Carbon best if from natural fibers
high carbon levels; add in layers to avoid
sawdust pellets Carbon
clumping
wood chips /
Carbon high carbon levels; use sparingly
pellets
What I can do
The Philippine National Standard (PNS) for Organic Fertilizer was established and
adopted in 2008 with substantial inputs from the Fertilizer and Pesticide Authority and
advice from the Technical Working Group (TWG) created through Special Order 565 Series
of 2004. It was revised in 2013 to reflect the results of the studies and advances related to
organic fertilizers, compost / soil conditioner, microbial inoculants, and organic plant
supplements.
Herein below are some of the quoted provisions to observe in using organic
products.
4. Product Descriptions
4.1 Organic Fertilizer - any product in solid or liquid form, of plant (except
byproducts from petroleum industries) or animal origin that has undergone substantial
PHILIPPINE NATIONAL STANDARD PNS/BAFS 40:2016 Organic Soil Amendments 2
decomposition that can supply available nutrients to plants with a total Nitrogen (N),
Phosphorus (P2O5), and Potassium (K2O) of five to ten percent (5-10%). This may be

enriched by microbial inoculants and naturally occurring minerals but no chemical or
inorganic fertilizer material has been used in the production or added to the finished
product to affect the nutrient content.
4.2 Compost / Soil Conditioner - any product in solid or liquid form, of plant
(except by-products from petroleum industries) or animal origin, that has undergone
substantial decomposition that can supply available nutrients to plants with a total
Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P2O5), and Potassium (K2O) of 2.5 to less than five percent
(2.5-5%). This may be enriched by microbial inoculants and naturally occurring minerals
but no chemical or inorganic fertilizer material has been used in the production or added
to the finished product to affect the nutrient content. Compost and soil conditioner are
used interchangeably in this Standard.
4.3 Microbial Inoculant - biologically active products containing optimum
population of one or a combination of active strains of bacteria, actinomycetes, algae, and
fungi that are useful in different biological activities, such as, but not limited to: N2-
fixation, decomposition of organic residues, and enhancement of nutrient availability.
4.4 Organic Plant Supplement - any compound of organic origin in liquid or solid
form which in low concentration promotes or modifies physiological processes in plants.
Total N-P2O5-K2O is not lower than 0.5% and not more than 5% (0.5-
Multiple Choice: Choose the best answer. Write only the letter in your answer sheet.
1. Any product in solid or liquid form, of plant (except byproducts from petroleum
industries) or animal origin that has undergone substantial PHILIPPINE NATIONAL
STANDARD PNS/BAFS;
a. compost c. organic fertilizer
b. microbial inoculant d. organic plant supplement
2. Any product in solid or liquid form, of plant (except by-products from petroleum
industries) or animal origin, that has undergone substantial decomposition that
can supply available nutrients to plants with a total Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus
(P2O5), and Potassium (K2O) of 2.5 to less than five percent (2.5-5%);
3. Biologically active products containing optimum population of one or a combination
of active strains of bacteria, actinomycetes, algae, and fungi that are useful in
different biological activities;
4. Any compound of organic origin in liquid or solid form which in low concentration
promotes or modifies physiological processes in plants;
5. This compost product is enriched microbial inoculants and naturally occurring no

chemicals;
a. compost/soil conditioner c. organic fertilizer
What I can do
9.6 Methods of processing
9.6.1 Techniques used to process organic products shall be biological, physical,

and mechanical in nature. Any additive, processing aid, or other material that reacts
chemically with organic products or modifies it must appear in Annex E and shall be used
in accordance with noted restrictions. Any succession/addition/revision from relevant
standard setting bodies PHILIPPINE NATIONAL STANDARD PNS/BAFS 07:2016 Organic
Agriculture 23 (BAFS & FDA) shall be adopted and shall be in accordance with the criteria
established in Section 12 of this Standard.
9.6.2 Filtration equipment shall not contain asbestos or utilize techniques or
substances that may contaminate the product. Filtration agents are considered
processing aids.
9.6.3 Extraction shall only take place with water, ethanol, oil, CO2, N2, or
naturally occurring acids or bases provided that they are used in appropriate quantity
and process.
9.6.4 The use of ionizing radiation is not allowed for any ingredient or the final
product.
9.6.5 Substances and techniques shall not be used such that: - these reconstitute
properties lost by the processing and storage of organic products; - these conceal
negligent processing; - these may otherwise be misleading as to the true nature of these
products; and - water may be used for re-hydration or reconstitution.
1. What will you describe the organic products to process based Philippine
National Standard?
2. What is the provision in extracting compost products with water, oil, CO 2 and
N2?
3. Why does filtration equipment with asbestos or substances that contaminate
the products prohibited?

What I can do
9.7 Methods of cleaning

9.7.1 Operators shall take all necessary precautions to protect organic food against
contamination by substances prohibited in organic agriculture and handling pest, disease
causing organisms, and foreign substances.
9.7.2 Substances used for cleaning or disinfection of storage, transport, and
processing facilities are listed in Annex F. Any succession/addition/revision from relevant
standard setting bodies (BAFS & FDA) shall be adopted and shall be in accordance with
the criteria established in Section 12 of this Standard.
9.7.3 Operations that use cleaners, sanitizers, and disinfectants on food contact
surfaces shall use them in a way that maintains the organic integrity of the food. Unless
otherwise noted in the Annex F, the operator is required to perform an intervening event
between the use of any cleaners, sanitizers, or disinfectant and the contact of the organic
food in that surface. Acceptable intervening events include a hot-water rinse, a sufficient
flush of organic product that is not sold as organic product, or adequate time for the
substances to volatilize.
9.7.4 Operators shall prevent the residues of boiler water additives from direct
contact with organic food by the use of entrained water, filters, traps, or other means that
prevent steam in contact with organic foods from carrying such compounds.
9.7.5 Handlers and processors shall make a plan and maintain a report of cleaners,
disinfectants, and sanitizers used by certified organic handling and processing operations.
This report should include a list of the cleaning, disinfecting, and sanitizing agents
currently used in certified organic facilities.
9.8 Packaging
9.8.1 Organic products must be not packed in reused bags or containers that have
been in direct contact with any substance that would likely compromise the integrity of
the product or ingredient placed in those containers, unless reusable bags or containers
have been thoroughly cleaned and pose no risk of contamination. PHILIPPINE NATIONAL
STANDARD PNS/BAFS 07:2016 Organic Agriculture 24
9.8.2 Plastic materials made of plastic and paper should be from virgin materials
while packaging materials made of glass shall be sterilized before use. Use of packaging
materials from biodegradable, recycled, or recyclable sources is encouraged.
Answer the question that follows.
1. Describe briefly the provisions that set by Philippine National Standard in

cleaning methods of organic products.

What I can do
Rubric in making composting

LEVEL 4 LEVEL 3 LEVEL 2 LEVEL 1
CRITERIA
(5 points) (4 points) (3 points) (1 point)
1.Collaborative Willingly Needs Requires No involvement
effort participates in encouragemen prompting to
group work t to work with the
participate group
with group
mates
2.Skills/Processes a. Needs a. No attempt
a. Handling of a. Proper use a. Good use assistance in to handle
materials of materials of handling of tools.
b. Following b. Follows all materials b. No attempt
tools.
steps steps b. Missed to do the
b. Does not
correctly. some steps follow the work.
steps
correctly.
3.Safety Use of PPE all Uses PPE Requires No PPE to use.
Measures the time sometimes prompting to
use PPE
4.Use of Uses complete Fail to use 2 Fail to use No materials to
materials and specific specific more than two use.
materials. materials. specific
materials.
5. Timeliness Finishes work Finishes 75% Finishes 50% Finishes 25%

before the of the work. of the work. of the work.
deadline.
Construct a 1 x 1 x 1 meter compost pit/pile in your area. Follow the steps in

composting. Your performance will be rated using the rubric above. Support your work
activities with videos or pictures and send to group chat.

References:
Agriculture, Department of. www.organic.da.gov.ph/. 2016.
http://organic.da.gov.ph/images/downloadables/PNS/PNS-Organic-Soil-
Amendments-PNS-BAFS-40-2016.pdf (accessed November 28, 2020).
Bodine, Alicia. www.gardenguides.com/120497-compost-barrel.html. September 21, 2017.
https://www.gardenguides.com/120497-compost-barrel.html (accessed November
24, 2020).
Education, Department of. K to 12 Basic Education Curriculum. Learning Materials,
Manila: DepEd, 2013.
Martig, Erik. conscious-compost.com/urban-composting-site-design/. April 16, 2019.
https://conscious-compost.com/urban-composting-site-design/ (accessed
November 28, 2020).
Organic Compost Preparation and Methods | Asia Farming. n.d.
www.asiafarming.com/organic-compost-preparation-methods (accessed November
28, 2020).
www.bokashi.com.au/Bokashi+One. 2014. https://www.bokashi.com.au/Bokashi+One
(accessed November 24, 2020).
www.instructables.com/Trench-compost/. n.d. https://www.instructables.com/Trench-
compost/ (accessed November 24, 2020).
www.zerowastescotland.org.uk. n.d.
https://www.zerowastescotland.org.uk/content/what-vessel-composting (accessed
November 24, 2020).

TVL AFA Organic Agriculture11 - Q2 - Module1

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[ CITATION Dep13 \l 1033 ]

Prepare Composting Area and Raw Materials

Compost and Harvest Fertilizer

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 1

Borrowed materials (i.e, songs, stories, poems, pictures, photos, brand

Published by the Department of Education

Development Team of the Module

Writer: Eudoxio P. Munalem, Leonora S. Auza, Lydia O. Bajao, Evelina R. Tiempo

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 2

After going through this module, you are expected to:

I - Prepare composting area and raw materials

1 - 5. Characteristics of composting area

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 3

What do compost organisms need?

According to INGO (2005), the needs of the compost organisms are:

2. Right amount of air and water

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 4

The space is most important requirement for composting preparation.

Performance Task No. 1

Answer the following questions:

Proposed Conceptual Site Design

Performance Task No. 2

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 6

Place a 5 cm to 10 cm layer of manure on top of the coarse material. Cattle,

Add water to material in Organic Compost preparation

Cover the bed with Organic Compost preparation

[ CITATION MrR18 \l 1033 ]

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 7

Performance Task No. 3

appropriate material chicken manure chicken wire

Requirements in gathering composting materials

Almost any organic material is suitable for composting.

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 8

Kitchen Refuse includes melon rinds, carrot peelings, tea bags, apple cores,

Spoiled Hay or Straw makes an excellent carbon base for a compost pile,

Seaweed is an excellent source of nutrient-rich composting material. Use the hose

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 9

Performance Task No. 4

1. All organic materials are suitable for composting.

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 10

What I Need to Know

After going through this module, you are expected to:

LO 2. Compost and harvest fertilizer

1 - 5. Materials used in harvesting compost fertilizer

Harvesting, Drying, and Storing.

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 12

Performance Task No. 1

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 13

How does in vessel composting work?

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 14

The composting process is kick-started by naturally occurring micro-organisms

[ CITATION www201 \l 1033 ]

Performance Task No. 2

Answer the questions below.

“Anaerobic composting describes the biological breakdown of organic materials by

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 15

Source: Anaerobic Composting. RecyclingMakesSense.org

Performance Task No. 3

Producing Organic Fertilizer Page 16

Step 1: Find a Location

Step 2: Dig a Hole

Dig a hole big enough to put some biodegradable material

Photo credited from the web