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An
Assignment
On
Lasting constructions & machines
At
FDDI (Ankleshwar)
Submitted by:-
Bhaweesha kalsi
Roll no. : - 04
Subject:-
Footwear lasting
Technique-ii
B.Sc. (FDP)
Under the guidance of:-
Vikas Bhatia

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
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I respect and thank Mr. VIKAS BHATIA for providing

me an opportunity to do the journal work in and giving us
all support and guidance which made me complete the
project duly.

I am extremely thankful to him for providing such a nice

support and guidance, although he had busy schedule
managing the corporate affairs. The success and final
outcome of this project required a lot of guidance and
assistance from many people and I am extremely
privileged to have got this all along the completion of my
project.

All that I have done is only due to such supervision and

assistance and I would not forget to thank him.

DECLARATION
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I hereby declare that, this work is done by me with

faithfully at lasting department, under the guidance of
Mr. VIKAS BHATIA.

Place: FDDI ANKLESHWAR

Date: 27TH MAY 2019

Signature of student
BHAWEESHA KALSI
B.Sc. (FDP)
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INDEX
SR. TITLE PG. NO. REMARKS
NO.
1. Introduction 5-6
to lasting &
constructions.
2. Cemented 6-7
construction
3. Sequence of 7-8
operation for
cemented
construction.
4. Machines 8-9
used for
cemented
construction.
5. Machines 9-44
parts, safety,
operating
&setup
perimeters

Lasting
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 Lasting is the term related to the process involved in

stretching the upper material over the last and securing it.
The upper will conform to the Contours of the last and
when, the last is removed, upper retains much of the shape.
 There are many variations in the way which footwear can
be made from the lasting point of view. This is known as
lasting Constructions.

What is construction?
 Construction is defined as the method of attachment of sole
with upper. There are many ways to attach the sole to the
upper but commercially only a few methods are preferred.
Shoes where traditionally made by molding leather to a
wooden last. Modern technology has introduced many new
materials and mechanism and much of the manufacture.

 Based on the methods of construction issues can be

categorized in three groups:
1. Cemented shoes
2. Stitched shoes
3. Molded shoes
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Cemented construction
In recent years there have been many development in
machineries used for lasting in the cemented construction.
The result has been that cemented lasting has been
considerably in simplified. Many firms now completely last
the shoe in three stages. There are many systems available,
this being of react advantage to the footwear manufacturer
has he can select a system which is suitable for his
particular product. Factors such as heel height, waist
curvature, whether it is lasting for men’s women’s or
children’s work will all have a consideration.
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Sequence of operation for cemented construction

Upper checking
Insole attachment with masking tape.
Toe-puff attachment
Counter molding
Lacing
Toe conditioning
Toe lasting
Heel conditioning
Seat & side lasting
Heel Crowning
Heat setting
Wrinkle chasing
Sole marking
Roughing and scouring
Adhesive application first Coat
Drying
Adhesive application second coat
Drying
Heat reactivation
Sole spotting
Sole pressing
Edge cleaning
Chilling
De-Lasting
Finishing
Final QC
Packing
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MACHINEs USED FOR Cemented

CONSTRUCTION
1. Toe-puff attaching machine
2. Counter molding machine
3. Mulling machine (toe conditioning)
4. Toe-lasting machine
5. Heel conditioning machine
6. Seat & side lasting machine
7. Heel crowning machine
8. Heat setting machine
9. Pounding & hammering machine
10. Roughing & scouring machine
11. Sole marking machine
12. Heat reactivator machine
13. Sole pressing machine
14. Chiller machine
15. De-lasting machine
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Machines parts, safety, operating & set-up

perimeters

1. TOE-PUFF ATTACHING MACHINE:

The purpose of toe puff attaching machine is to attach the

thermoplastic toe puff with the upper material.
The main parts of the machines are follows.
 The top plate is the only heated part of the machine.
It has a Teflon coating so that the toe puff does not
stick to the plate.
 The bottom plate remains in room temperature
provides support to the upper so that the toe puff can
easily be activated and attached.
 Machine setting parameters:
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 Temperature – 100-110 degree centigrade

 Dwell time – 12 to 15 second

 Air line pressure – 60 PSI

 Machine safety parameters:

1. Do not touch the thermal units when machine is
switched on .
2. Do not put your hand in between thermal unit and
bottom plate.
3. Concentrate on job while operating machine .

 Operation:
1. Switch on the air compressor before switching on
the machine.
2. Switch on the machine and set time at 15 second
and temperature at 130 C.
3. Wait for at least 30 minutes before starting
operation.
4. Make sure the thermo plastic coated toe puff is
properly skived.
5. Place toe puff in between upper and lining keeping
its edge 8-10m.m away from upper edge.
6. In this posture place the upper under the clamp and
press foot pedal.
 P a g e | 11

2. COUNTER MOLDING MACHINE

The purpose of toe counter molding machine is to

attach the thermoplastic counter stiffener with the
upper material and also give shape to the back part of
the upper similar to the last. However machines are
available in various designs to suit different counter
stiffener (Like pre molded leather board, TPU
counter stiffener), most popular machine is equipped
with hot and cold treatment of the counter stiffener.

The main parts of the machines are:

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Heated mould- Consists of an aluminum mould in the

bottom and a rubber mould on the top. The concave
cavity of the rubber mould exactly fit the convex surface
of the aluminum mould thus ensuring even application of
heat to the entire counter stiffener for activation.
The cold mould- This mould has distinct shape of the
last. Frozen at sub-zero temperature, to ensure fast setting
as per last shape.
Flanging device- Flanging device turn the lasting margin
and the part of the stiffener inward determining the
correct back height of the shoe prior to lasting operation.
The thermoplastic counter stiffener is inserted between
upper and lining pocket in the heel area of the upper then
the upper is placed on the hot mould.
Machine setting parameters:
 Temperature of hot mould – 100-110 degree centigrade
 Temperature of the top hot mould – 100-130 degree

centigrade
 Temperature of cold mould – -10 degree centigrade

 Dwell time hot mould – 12 to 15 second

 Dwell time cold mould – 12 to 15 second
 Air line pressure – 70 PSI
Safety
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1. Do not touch the heated moulds when machine is

switched on.
2. Do not put your hand in between moulds and
pincer vertical movement adjustment screw.
3. Concentrate on job while operating machine.

Operation:

1. Switch on the air compressor before switching on

the machine.
2. Switch on the machine and set time at 15 second
and temperature at 130° C.
3. Wait for at least 30 minutes before staring
operation.
4. Make sure the thermo plastic coated counter
stiffener is properly skived.
5. Insert counter centrally in between upper and
lining up to the top line and place the heel grip in
position and clear the heel grip from any pleats.
6. In this posture place the upper between the hot
moulds and press knee press.
7. Press top mould activating button and pick up the
second upper and repeat the same thing to feed the
other hot mould.
 P a g e | 14

8. Once one hot mould release upper, pick up and

mount on the cold mould. Check back height and
place back seam centrally.
9. Activate pincers by pressing foot pedal.
10. Press cold mould activating button to complete
machine cycle.
11. After the machine release the upper check for
following points:
Counter is properly stuck with upper and lining

Lasting margin evenly flanged

No pleats in the lining and heel grip.

 P a g e | 15

3. MULLING MACHINE (TOE

CONDITIONING):

The toe mulling machine has top and bottom heated

thermal unit. The top thermal unit is perforated and
covered with felt through which steam is ejected.
There are two switches which when pressed
simultaneously closes the heated plates and the upper
is pressed between them. Then the steam is ejected
from the top plate on the upper which makes the
leather soft. The heat of the bottom plate makes the
toe puff soft.

Machine setting parameters:

 Temperature of top plat – 120-130 degree
centigrade
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 Temperature of bottom plate – 100-110 degree

centigrade
 Timer to control the steam flow – 4-5 seconds
 Dwell time – 8 to 10 second
 Air line pressure – 60 PSI
 Control panel has switches to adjust the
temperature and time.

Safety:
Do not the thermal units and any other heated and moving
parts while operating machine. Concentrate on job while
operating machine.

Operation:

1. Switch on the air compressor before switching on the

machine.
2. Switch on the toe conditioning machine and set
temperature at 600 C and time at 15 seconds.
3. Wait for at least 30 minutes before starting operation.
4. Set machine as per upper material and design.
5. Place prepared upper on the last and condition in the
upper conditioning machine.
6. The machine working pressure must be between 3 &4
Bars.
 P a g e | 17

4. TOE LASTING MACHINE:

A forepart pulling and lasting machine is designed to pull

the upper over the last using combined draft pull around
the entire toe region. The machine is equipped with
multiple pincers instead of only one pincer used in hand
lasting. Several machine parts function in a sequential
manner to pull the upper over the last and subsequently
attaching the lasting margin on the insole. The machines
are capable to last wide range of footwear of different
styles and shape.
 P a g e | 18

Machine setting parameters:

 Temperature of injector (Adhesive) – 250-260 degree
centigrade
 Temperature of wiper plate – 100-110 degree centigrade

 Dwell time 3rd phase – 5 to 6 second

 Air line pressure – 80-90 PSI for pneumatic toe lasting

machine

Safety:

1. Do not touch the Pincer, Applicator, thermal units and

any other heated and moving parts while operating
machine.
2. Concentrate on job while operating machine.
3. Do not operate the machine without a Last and upper

.
Operation:

1. Switch on the air compressor before switching on the

machine.
2. Switch on the Toe lasting machine and set time at 7
seconds and temperature at 2400 C.
3. Wait for at least 30 minutes before starting operation.
 P a g e | 19

4. Make sure the upper is prepared according to design

and insole is attached to the last.
5. Set machine as per upper material and design.
6. Immediately place the upper and last in the lasting
machine, feed lasting margin in the front pincer and
initiate 1st phase by pressing right pedal.
7. Initiate 2nd phase after feeding upper in the rest of the
pincers and check shape of the lasted upper.
8. If found ok initiate 3rd phase by pressing button.
9. After the machine release the lasted upper check
following points.
 P a g e | 20

5. SEAT CONDITIONING MACHINE:

Machine setting perimeters

 To reactivate the stiffener materials.
 To soften the upper and lining materials.
 To avoid wrinkles on the uppers.
 Temperature: - 70 - 80
 Air Pressure: - 4 – 6 bar
 P a g e | 21

 Dwell Time: - 8 – 10 sec

Safety:

1. Do not the thermal units and any other heated parts

while operating machine.
2. Concentrate on job while operating machine.
Operation: -

1. Make sure that the machine is connected to the main

line.
2. Make sure that the machine is connected to the
compressed air supply.
3. Set the required temperature using the adjustment
switch.
4. Wait till the mould is heated to the required
temperature.
5. Wait the required time and then remove the shoe upper.
 P a g e | 22

6. SEAT & SIDE LASTING MACHINE:

The machine is equipped with 2 or 4 pincers for side

lasting. Several machine parts function in a sequential
manner to pull the upper over the last and subsequently
attaching the lasting margin on the insole of the heel and
waist area. The machine runs primarily in combination of
Hydraulic or pneumatic system.

Machine setting parameters:

 Temperature of Extrusion Nozzle – 220-2300 C

 Temperature of wiper plate – 65-700 C

 Dwell time – 6 to 8 second

 Air line pressure – 80 PSI

 P a g e | 23

Safety:-
1. Do not touch the Pincer, Extrusion nozzle, heel band,
side pads and any other heated and moving parts while
operating machine.
2. Concentrate on job while operating machine.
3. Do not operate the machine without a Last.

Operation:-
1. Switch on the air compressor before switching on the
machine.
2. Switch on the machine and set time at 7 seconds and
Date temperature at 2100 C.
3. Set machine as per heel height.
4. Set pincer pull as per material.
5. Set adhesive quantity.
6. Place toe lasted upper on the spindle after setting back
height and feed the machine. Press initiation button to
start machine cycle.
7. After the machine release the lasted upper check
following points as stated in the given handout.
 P a g e | 24

7. HEEL CROWNING MACHINE:

Automatic heel seat crowning machines is used for

pounding shoes heel seat after lasting, with the hot plate
heats and press the heel seat area, the conical rolling
wheel to automatically find heel part of upper and vibrate
and press it to achieve effect of pounding to remove
wrinkle and of distinct outline. It is suitable for any men
and ladies shoes.

This Heel Seat Crowning Machine is suitable for any

kinds of leathers, such as lambskin, cowhide and PU, etc.
upgrade the quality and the aesthetics of the shoe.
 P a g e | 25

Machine setting parameters:

 Temperature – The heated plate temperature 80 – 900 C
(depending on upper material)
 Dwell time – 5 to 8 sec

 Top plate pressure – 4-5 bars

 Rolling wheel pressure – 2 bars (depending on upper

material)
 Air line pressure – 6-8 bars.

Safety:
1. Concentrate on job while operating machine.
2. Do not operate the machine without a Last.
3. Keep your hands away from the last bottom while
operating machine.
4. Keep your hands away from the last bottom while
operating machine.
5. Ladies must keep dupatta / shawls tied back firmly.

Operation:-
1. Switch on the air compressor before switching on the
machine.
2. The machine supply pressure is 6 bars. Set the
temperature at 1100 C.
 P a g e | 26

8. HEAT SETTER MACHINE

It is the machine used for shape retention of the lasted

upper. In other words it is used to relax the stress applied
on the upper due to lasting pull and make the upper
assuming permanent shape of the shoe. Retention of
shape of shoe is the result of good heat setting. If the
lasted upper is not going to the process shape retention
will time consuming. This machine uses super-heated
steam and High Velocity Air that rapidly relax the lasting
stress. It is provided with special stainless steel heating
chamber. The convection of hot air and steam in the
chamber can relieve the stress inside the upper and make
it more closed to the last. The adjustable temperature
controller can set the optimal temperature in light of shoe
materials.
 P a g e | 27

Machine setting parameters:

 Temperature – 80-140 degree centigrade depending on

upper material
 Dwell time – 5 to 7 min

 Air line pressure – 70-80 PSI for pneumatic toe lasting

machine.

Safety:
1. Do not put your hand within the tunnel when machine
is running.
2. Do not raise heat setting temperature more than 140°C
for leather Upper.
3. Ensure that there is enough water in the tank before
switching on the machine. Use distilled water only.
4. Concentrate on job while operating machine.

Operations:

1. Switch on the air compressor and the machine at least

20 minute before operation.
2. Set conveyor movement to 4 minutes.
3. Set temperature at 120°C from select button.
4. For leather upper press steam button on.
 P a g e | 28

9. POUNDING MACHINE

To make feather edge of the upper at neat and clean at

Toe, Side area.

Machine setting parameters:

 Temperature: - 70 – 80
 Dwell Time: - 8 – 10 sec

Safety:
 P a g e | 29

1. Keep your hands away from the last bottom while

operating machine.
2. Use work rest while working.
3. Ladies must keep dupatta/shawls tied back firmly.
4. Concentrate on the job to avoid serious accidents.
5. Only one person in the machine at a time.
Note: Avoid wearing loose clothing from the next time.

Machine operation:

1. Do not hold the lasting margin against roller for too

long.
2. Do pounding of the top lasting margin only.
3. Start from the edge of the margin with heavy. Pressure
and gradually move towards featheredge by reducing
hand pressure.
4. Keep moving your hand. At the end of the Operation
you must have reduced pleats and properly defined
feather edge.
 P a g e | 30

10. ROUGHING & SCOURING MACHINE:

Both operations are conducted on the roughing machine

and prepare the upper for bonding by raising fibers of
upper.

Scouring operation removes the excess material on the

lasting margin and flattens the surface before the surface
is roughed. Over scouring damages the material. Scouring
is performed using emery paper belt/ring.
 P a g e | 31

The roughing operation removes the grain surface of the

leather and raises the fibers for good adhesion. Roughing
operation is performed on the wire brush fitted in the
machine.
The machine is equipped with a reverse rotation switch
for sharpening of wire brush. Sharpening is performed
with.

Machine setting perimeters:

 A basic scouring and roughing machine is completely

mechanical in nature.

 Therefore no adjustment is needed. 28-36 grit emery

paper shall be used for scouring uppers made of cow or
buffalo leather.

 Whereas 36-40 grit emery paper shall be used in case

the upper is made of delicate leather like goat or sheep
skin.
 P a g e | 32

Safety & operating:

1. Switch off the machine when not in use.

2. Switch on the dust extractor while operating the
machine in order to prevent spreading of harmful leather
dust.
3. Check the machine for the fire spark before and after
the machine operation. Do not switch on the dust
extractor while sharpening wire brush, which may cause
fire.
4. Ladies are required to tie their Dupatta of similar loose
part of their dress at their back.
5. Do not work more than one person in the machine.
6. Switch on the headlamp while operating the machine
for proper illumination
7. Sprinkle water in the dust collection tray to prevent
possible fire hazard during scouring.
 P a g e | 33

11. SOLE MARKING MACHINE:

This operation is done after scouring and before roughing.

This operation is required for mark of the lasted upper
with cup sole for roughing purpose in order to remove the
grain layer of upper leather. This can be done by holding
the lasted upper after scouring with sole and marking
done. Marking machines could be also used for this
process. Sole marking with help of marking machine is
faster and more accurate.

Bottom Filling (Attach Filler)

 On the majority of direct stuck shoes cavity remains
within the perimeter of the lasted upper which needs
to be filled to a level surface.
 P a g e | 34

 This can be done buy using pre-shaped fillers of felt,

foam or scrap cases, the filler may be stuck to the
insole using the bottom cement.
 In some cases, the filler may be stuck to the sole
instead or occasionally this is made with extra
substance in its center, thus obviating the need for
filler.
 It is important that the filler is of correct substances
and a size and is positioned.

Sole Preparation:
 Scour surface lightly. Use of brushing operation to
remove all traces of dust. Apply special EVA
primmer by brush. Ensure a minimum of 10 minutes
between wiping and cementing.
 Apply polyurethane (PU) adhesive.
 It is important that the cemented sole be allowed to
dry for at least of 30 minutes before sole pressing.
 Heat reactivates the adhesives film to 85-90 degree
Celsius. When using special EVA primer, correct
heat reactivation of the adhesive films a must.

SPECIAL EVA PRIMERS:

 Ensure a minimum of 10 minutes wiping and
cementing for a special primer but apply cement
before the end of the working day.
 P a g e | 35

12. HEAT REACTIVATOR MACHINE:

The machine is used to reactivate the adhesive film on the

lasted upper and the sole. The adhesive on sole and the
upper must be heated at 80-85deg centigrade before
attaching. The temperature of the machine may be higher.

Machine setting parameters:

 Temperature of top heater – 60-70 degree centigrade
(depending on upper material)
 P a g e | 36

 Temperature on the sole surface 70-850 C for

different sole units
 Dwell time of IR lamps – 6 to 8 sec

Safety: -
1. Heat reactivation machine must not be touched while it
is switched on.
2. Nothing should be kept unattended or for long period
on the Heat reactivator to avoid damage.
3. Do not operate machines without understanding
functions of its various parts
4. Consult the concerned faculty before operation.
5. Do not touch the sensor of conveyor sensor.

Operation:-

1. Switch on the air compressor and the heat reactivation

at least 15 minutes before operation.
2. Set heat reactivation temperature on sole with an
independent gadget. For Neoprene 700- 800 C and for
Polyurethane 850- 90°C. Set time for 6-8 Seconds.
Increase shoe bottom temperature at moderate level.
3. The operator must pay very careful attention while
working on this machine at all times.
 P a g e | 37

13. SOLE PRESSING MACHINE:

The main purposes of these operations are to press the

sole and the shoe bottom together so that they may not
come apart in wear. In the traditional type of presses the
lasted upper is held in position by two last support posts,
one at the forepart and the other at the back of the last,
while hydraulic pressure is applied to the sole. In simplest
machines the pressure is applied mechanically.
 P a g e | 38

Machine setting parameters:

 The pressure unit used in bars, PSI or Mega Pascal
depending upon the manufacturer. Basic pressure
parameters are 3 – 5 bars (depending on soling
material and its hardness) which is equivalent to 250-
600PSI
 Dwell time – 10 to 12 sec.

Safety:-
1. Do not touch the control panel.
2. Concentrate on job while operating machine.
3. Do not play with or operate the machine without last.
Breach of instruction will Cause serious physical injuries

Operation: -
1. Switch on the air compressor before switching on the
machine.
2. Concentrate on job while operating machine.
3. Do not play with or operate the machine without last.
Breach of instruction will Cause serious physical
injuries .

Operation: -
1. Switch on the air compressor before switching on the
machine.
2. Ensure line air compressor at least 6-7 bar or at least 90
psi.
 P a g e | 39

3. Ensure sole pressing machine 1st and 2nd pressure at 4

and 6 Bar Respectively Set time at 15 seconds by 1st and
2nd pressure timer.
4. Set the last height adjustment post as per last used that
makes sure last seats, horizontally and upside down. Place
aluminum plate and rubber plate according to ladies,
gents and children's footwear.
5. After activation take out both and spot the lasted upper
centrally within the sole Cavity. Ensure the lasted upper is
not displaced from heel, waist and toe.
6. Immediately place the shoe in the sole press upside
down and toe towards yourself and press start button.

Warning: -
It is important to ensure that the positions of the last and
the sole are correct in relation to the rubber pad and the
shoe tip support, because if there are any cracks or slits
where the rubber can enter during the first pressing
operation, there is a danger that the membrane will break.
 P a g e | 40

14. CHILLER MACHINE:

It is important to remember that during the shoe making

process, the lasted upper undergo various heat treatment
which warms up the plastic last. This lasts unless allowed
to cool down will keep the thermoplastic toe puff, counter
stiffener soft and the sole attaching adhesive will not gain
desired strength, resulting poor green strength and shape
loss of shoe after delasting.
 P a g e | 41

Therefore, the last needs to be given adequate cooling

time before delasting. Introduction of chiller accelerate
this process and reduces last engagement time which
helps in achieving higher productivity.
Machine setting parameters:
 Temperature: -15
 Dwell Time: 5-7 minutes.

Safety:-
1. Switch off the machine when not in use.
2. Concentrate on job while operating machine.
3. Keep your hands away from the conveyor while
operating machine.

Operation: -
1. Switch on the air compressor at least 15 minutes before
operation.
2. The operator must pay very careful attention while
working on this machine at all times.
3. Set the required temperature using the adjustment
switch.
4. The operator must pay very careful attention while
working on this machine at all times.
5. Set the conveyor rotation time 1 minute and
temperature – 15.
 P a g e | 42

15. DE-LASTING MACHINE:

The machine consists of a hydraulic post on which the

thimble of last is placed and a rubber pad. Upon
completion of pivotal movement of the post the upward
movement of the rubber pad lifts the counter of the shoe
upward. The operator push the forepart of the last, thus
the last is pulled out of the shoe. This machine is used for
connectional hinged last only.
 P a g e | 43

Quality check points in lasting section

Pre-Production Check:

It is very essential to go for pre-operation checks

before lasting which are given as follows:

Ensure that all machines are working properly.

The working instructions are displayed on each
machine.
Ensure that 6-7 bar pressure available for Mulling or
Conditioning, Moccassin Pre-forming, Counter Moulding,
heat setting, sole press, Chiller, De-lasting.
Ensure that Toe-band, Crown/ Injector, Heel band
and Wiper plate fits well with the last perfectly.
Check the temperature of the heat setter, Hot air
Blower, Heat Re-activator and chiller with the digital
display screen for accuracy.
Check the insole, one pair in each size for correct fit
and moulding.
Check for the counter moulding and flanging
regularly.
Perform the carbon paper test for lasted upper on sole
press regularly daily basis.
 P a g e | 44

Halogenate TPR sole at least one hour before

applying the adhesive.
Wiping the PU, PVC sole at least 10 minutes before
applying the adhesive.
Before starting production, produce 1 or 2 pairs per
size for checking fit of insole/ upper/ sole/ toe-puff/
counter.
Check the all material available for the production
before the starting the work as per specification sheet.