SUBMITTED TO: NEHA DAS

SUBMITTED BY: SUBHASMITA CHAMPATIRAY

COURSE: FASHION DESIGNING (2 YEAR)
 ACKNOWLEDGMENT
I would like to express my special thanks of gratitude to my HOC
teacher “Miss. Neha Das”for their able guidance and support in
Completing my project. and providing me with all the facility that
was required

DATE:25/05/2021 Subhasmita champatiray

Fashion designing (2 year)

INTRODUCTION:
 The Victorian era of the United Kingdom and its overseas Empire was the period
of Queen Victoria's rule from June 1837 to 1901. 
  The era was preceded by the Georgian period and succeeded by the Edwardian
period.
  This was a long period of prosperity for the British people, as profits gained from the
overseas Empire, as well as from industrial improvements at home, allowed a large,
educated middle class to develop.
 The era is often characterized as a long period of peace, known as the Pax
Britannica, and economic, colonial, and industrial consolidation, temporarily
disrupted by the Crimean War. In fact, Britain was at war every year during this
period. 
 Towards the end of the century, the policies of New Imperialism led to increasing
colonial conflicts and eventually the Anglo-Zanzibar War and the Boer War. The
empire's size doubled during the era. 
 The latter half of the Victorian era roughly coincided with the first portion of
the Belle Époque era of continental Europe and other non-English speaking countries
within Europe.
CULTURE:
The middle of the nineteenth century saw The Great Exhibition of 1851, the first World's
Fair and showcased the greatest innovations of the century. At its center was the Crystal
Palace, an enormous, modular glass and iron structure—the first of its kind. It was
condemned by critic John Ruskin as the very model of mechanical dehumanization in design,
but later came to be presented as the prototype of Modern architecture. 

 The emergence of photography, which was showcased at the Great Exhibition, resulted in
significant changes in Victorian art with Queen Victoria being the first British monarch to be
photographed. John Everett Millais was influenced by photography (notably in his portrait of
Ruskin) as were other Pre-Raphaelite artists.

Gothic Revival architecture became increasingly significant in the period, leading to the
Battle of the Styles between Gothic and Classical ideals. Charles Barry's architecture for the
new Palace of Westminster, which had been badly damaged in an 1834 fire, built on the
medieval style of Westminster Hall, the surviving part of the building. 
EVENTS:
1832 
Passage of the first Reform Act[4]
1837 
Ascension of Queen Victoria to the throne.
1840 
New Zealand becomes a British colony, through the Treaty of Waitangi
1842 
Massacre of Elphinstone's Army in Afghanistan.[5]
1842 
The Mine Act banned women and children from working
in coal, iron, lead and tin mining.
1845 
The Irish famine begins. Within five years it would become the UK's worst human
disaster, with starvation and emigration reducing the population of the entire
country by 7.5 percent. The effect of the famine permanently changed Ireland’s
demographic and became a rallying point for nationalist sentiment that pervaded
British politics for much of the following century.
1846
Repeal of the Corn Laws.
1848 
Death of around 2,000 people a week in a cholera epidemic.
1850 
Restoration of the Roman Catholic hierarchy in Britain.
1851 
The Great Exhibition (the first World's Fair) was held at the Crystal Palace, with great
success and international attention.
1854 
Crimean War: The United Kingdom declared war on Russia.
1857 
The Indian Mutiny, a widespread revolt in India against the rule of the British East
India Company, was sparked by sepias (native Indian soldiers) in the Company's
army. The rebellion, involving not just sepias but many sectors of the Indian
population as well, was largely quashed within a year. In response to the mutiny, the
East India Company was abolished in August 1858 and India came under the direct
rule of the British crown, beginning the period of the British Raj.
1858 
The Prime Minister, Lord Palmerstone, responded to the Rosin plot
against French emperor Napoleon III, the bombs for which were purchased in
Birmingham, by attempting to make such acts a felony, but the resulting uproar
forced him to resign.
1859 
Charles Darwin published On the Origin of Species, which led to various reactions.[6]
1861 
Death of Prince Albert; Queen Victoria refused to go out in public for many years,
and when she did she wore a widow's bonnet instead of the crown.
1866 
An angry crowd in London, protesting against John Russell's resignation as Prime
Minister, was barred from Hyde Park by the police; they tore down iron railings and
trampled on flower beds. Disturbances like this convinced Derby and Disraeli of the
need for further parliamentary reform.
1875 
Britain purchased Egypt's shares in the Suez Canal as the African nation was forced
to raise money to pay off its debts.
1882 
British troops began the occupation of Egypt by taking the Suez Canal, in order to
secure the vital trade route and the passage to India, and the country became a
protectorate.
1884 
The Fabian Society was founded in London by a group of middle class intellectuals,
including Quaker Edward R. Pease, Havelock Ellis, and E. Nesbit, to
promote socialism.
1888 
The serial killer known as Jack the Ripper murdered and mutilated five (and possibly
more) prostitutes on the streets of London.
1870-1891 
Under the Elementary Education Act 1870 basic State Education became free for
every child under the age of 10.
ENTERTAINMENT:
 Popular forms of entertainment varied by social class. Victorian Britain, like the
periods before it, was interested in theatre and the arts, and music, drama,
and opera were widely attended.

 There were, however, other forms of entertainment. Gambling at cards in

establishments popularly called casinos was wildly popular during the period: so
much so that evangelical and reform movements specifically targeted such
establishments in their efforts to stop gambling, drinking, and prostitution.

 Brass bands and 'The Bandstand' became popular in the Victorian era. The band
stand was a simple construction that not only created an ornamental focal point, but
also served acoustic requirements whilst providing shelter from the changeable
British weather. It was common to hear the sound of a brass band whilst strolling
through parklands. At this time musical recording was still very much a novelty.

 Another form of entertainment involved 'spectacles' where paranormal events, such

as hypnotism, communication with the dead (by way of medium ship or channelling),
ghost conjuring and the like, were carried out to the delight of crowds and
participants. Such activities were more popular at this time than in other periods of
recent Western history.
FASHION:
 Victorian fashion consists of the various fashions and trends in British culture that
emerged and developed in the United Kingdom and the British Empire throughout
the Victorian era, roughly from the 1830s through the 1890s.
 The period saw many changes in fashion, including changes in styles, fashion
technology and the methods of distribution. Various movement in architecture,
literature, and the decorative and visual arts as well as a changing perception of the
traditional gender roles also influenced fashion.
 Under Queen Victoria's reign, England enjoyed a period of growth along with
technological advancement. Mass production of sewing machines in the 1850s as
well as the advent of synthetic dyes introduced major changes in fashion.[1] Clothing
could be made more quickly and cheaply.
 Advancement in printing and proliferation of fashion magazines allowed the masses
to participate in the evolving trends of high fashion, opening the market of mass
consumption and advertising.
 By 1905, clothing was increasingly factory made and often sold in large, fixed-price
department stores, spurring a new age of consumerism with the rising middle class
who benefited from the industrial revolution
WOMEN’S FASHION:
 During the Victorian Era, women generally worked in the private, domestic sphere.
[2]
 Unlike in earlier centuries when women would often help their husbands and
brothers in family businesses and in labour, during the nineteenth century, gender
roles became more defined.
 The requirement for farm labourers was no longer in such a high demand after
the Industrial Revolution, and women were more likely to perform domestic work or,
if married, give up work entirely. Dress reflected this new, increasingly sedentary
lifestyle, and was not intended to be utilitarian.
 Clothes were seen as an expression of women's place in society,[3] hence were
differentiated in terms of social class. Upper-class women, who did not need to
work, often wore a tightly laced corset over a bodice or chemisette, and paired them
with a skirt adorned with numerous embroideries and trims; over layers
of petticoats. 
 Middle-class women exhibited similar dress styles; however, the decorations were
not as extravagant. The layering of these garments makes them very heavy. Corsets
were also stiff and restricted movement. Although the clothes were not comfortable,
the type of fabrics and the numerous layers were worn as a symbol of wealth.
Neck-line

 Bertha is the low shoulder neck-line worn by women during the Victorian Era. The cut
exposed a woman's shoulders and it sometimes was trimmed over with a three to six-inch
deep lace flounce, or the bodice has neckline draped with several horizontal bands of fabric
pleats. However, the exposure of neck-line was only restricted to the upper and middle
class, working-class women during the time period were not allowed to reveal so much
flesh. The décolleté style made shawls to become an essential feature of
dresses. Corsets lost their shoulder straps, and fashion was to produce two bodices, one
closed décolletage for day and one décolleté for evening.

Boning 

Corsets were used in women's gowns for emphasizing the small waist of the female body.
They function as an undergarment which can be adjusted to bind tightly around the waist,
hold and train a person's waistline, so to slim and conform it to a fashionable silhouette. It
also helped stop the bodice from horizontal creasing. With the corset, a very small tight
fitting waist would be shown. Yet, corsets have been blamed for causing many diseases
because of tight lacing, but the practice was less commonplace than generally thought
today (Effects of tight lacing on the body).
Sleeves 

Sleeves were tightly fit during the early Victorian era. It matched with the tight fit women's
small waist in the design, and the shoulder sleeve seam line was drooped more to show a
tighter fit on the arm. This eventually limited women's movements with the sleeves.
However, as crinolines started to develop in fashion, sleeves turned to be like large bells
which gave the dress a heavier volume. Engage antes, which were usually made of lace,
linen, or lawn, with cambric and broderie analgise, were worn under the sleeves. They were
easy to remove, launder and rest itch into position, so to act as false sleeves, which was
tacked to the elbow-length sleeves during the time. They commonly appear under the bell-
shaped sleeves of day dresses.

Silhouette

 Silhouette changed over time supported by the evolution of the undergarment. In earlier
days, wide skirts were supported by fabrics like linen which used horsehair in the
weave. Crinolines were used to give skirts a beehive shape, with at least six layers petticoats
worn under the skirt, which could weigh as much as fourteen pounds. Later, the cage
crinoline was developed. Women were freed from the heavy petticoats, and were able to
move their legs freely beneath the cage. Silhouette later began to emphasise a slope toward
the back of the skirt. Polonaise style was introduced where fullness bunched up at the back
of the skirt. Crinolines and cages also started to disappear with it being more dangerous to
working-class women. Tournures or bustles were developed.
MEN’S FASHION:
 During the 1840s, men wore tight-fitting, calf length frock coats and a waistcoat or
vest. The vests were single- or double-breasted, with shawl or notched collars, and
might be finished in double points at the lowered waist. For more formal occasions,
a cutaway morning coat was worn with light trousers during the daytime, and a dark
tail coat and trousers was worn in the evening.
 Shirts were made of linen or cotton with low collars, occasionally turned down, and
were worn with wide cravats or neck ties. Trousers had fly fronts, and breeches were
used for formal functions and when horseback riding. Men wore top hats, with wide
brims in sunny weather.
 During the 1850s, men started wearing shirts with high upstanding or
turnover collars and four-in-hand neckties tied in a bow, or tied in a knot with the
pointed ends sticking out like "wings". The upper-class continued to wear top hats,
and bowler hats were worn by the working class.
 In the 1860s, men started wearing wider neckties that were tied in a bow or looped
into a loose knot and fastened with a stickpin. Frock coats were shortened to knee-
length and were worn for business, while the mid-thigh length sack coat slowly
displaced the frock coat for less-formal occasions. Top hats briefly became the very
tall "stovepipe" shape, but a variety of other hat shapes were popular.
 During the 1870s, three-piece suits grew in popularity along with patterned fabrics
for shirts. Neckties were the four-in-hand and, later, the Ascot ties. A narrow ribbon
tie was an alternative for tropical climates, especially in the Americas. Both frock
coats and sack coats became shorter. Flat straw boaters were worn when boating.
 During the 1880s, formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a
dark waistcoat, a white bow tie, and a shirt with a winged collar. In mid-decade, the
dinner jacket or tuxedo, was used in more relaxed formal occasions. The Norfolk
jacket and tweed or woollen breeches were used for rugged outdoor pursuits such
as shooting. Knee-length topcoats, often with contrasting velvet or fur collars, and
calf-length overcoats were worn in winter. Men's shoes had higher heels and a
narrow toe.
 Starting from the 1890s, the blazer was introduced, and was worn for sports, sailing,
and other casual activities.[13]