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Textile Exchange - Organic Cotton Market Report - 2020 20200810
Textile Exchange - Organic Cotton Market Report - 2020 20200810
conjunction with steady growth in demand for organic fiber for personal care
North America products, has moved TOCMC from a substantial excess inventory position to a
pet food, and flowers). According to the
very tight supply/demand situation. A good production year will be required
Organic Trade Association’s 2019 Organic
USA | 2018/19 organic cotton in 2020 to meet the projected needs ofIndustry
Kelly Pepper
existingSurvey,
customers.
organic fiber product sales
production As of mid-May 2020, the demand forincreased
Manager
15 percent
TOCMC organic over
cotton has2017 to $1.8
not been
billion in 2018 - with most of those sales in
impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, although that could change with time.
organic cotton.
Perhaps the fact that a large majority of the fiber goes into personal care
USA due to the lack of a market at national Forecasts indicate that the amount of Texas Organic Cotton Marketing Cooperative (TOCMC)
prices, which are higher than elsewhere in organic cotton produced in 2019/20 will products rather than apparel is a significant factor in demand holding.
the world. However, a significant number increase substantially over 2018/19, with
of acres could shift to Pima in 2020/21, a limited number of in-conversion acres
which commands a higher price, as it also in the works and 20 more farmers
grows well in particular climates. While for coming on board. The organic cotton
the last several years only two farmers in market is also expanding. Organic Trade
Back to Contents • 47
North America
USA | Program insights
Funding from a 2017 National Institute for Food and Agriculture Organic
Agriculture Research and Extension Initiative award is helping Texas A&M
AgriLife Research in Lubbock, Texas, bring ten candidate varieties for organic
cotton production to the development phase by 2021.
Results from multi-year, multi-location testing show good yield potential
compared to standard check variety FM 958. Two of the candidate varieties
have a distinct leaf shape to distinguish from GMO varieties. Four candidate
varieties have exceptional fiber quality, and four show resilience to various pests
such as bacterial blight, Verticillium wilt, and root-knot nematodes. All the
candidate varieties have good adaptation to organic production in the Texas
High Plains, including good root systems, storm- proof bolls, and early maturity.
Breeder seed increases isolated from GMO and other cotton in 2019 suffered
hail damage, so seed quantity available for testing and foundation seed grow-
out in 2020 was limited.
Tests and increases in 2020 will hopefully provide enough information and seed
to select appropriate varieties and initiate grow-outs for eventual seed
production for commercial use. The research program continues to breed
cotton in new cross combinations to develop varieties suited for organic
production. Multi-year performance data from several new candidate varieties
will be ready for farmers to evaluate after the 2020 growing season, and we
will establish demonstration plots of potential new varieties with organic
farmers in 2021. The path forward is establishing the best strategy to get
improved seed into farmers’ hands.
Back to Contents
Photo (right): © Kayla Pepper 48
East Asia
Photo: © Rare, China
Back to Contents • 49
East Asia
the textile industry will be the main driving pre-announces a more reasonable
TEam insights force for organic cotton in China. targeted price (RMB186,000/ton in 2020),
which
Q What do you expect the short-
and long-term impacts of the
is used as the basis for dispensing direct
subsidies to cotton-producing farmers.
COVID-19 pandemic will be on
Jun Zhao Instead of procuring and stockpiling cotton
organic cotton farmers and
Textile Exchange Ambassador, at the targeted price, the government pays
production in China?
China farmers the difference between market
price and the target price when the former
ns prod ly the
on ucer case for
Q s those
W thi
h s inter whose
a reg view operation
t ion ed is a part
’s this of the
a or year global
r ga see value
e nic med chain,
cot very because
y ton conc of their
o pr erne highly
u od d concentra
r uct abou ted
ion t the productio
k an mark n in
e d et Xinjiang
y tre pros and the
nd pect reports of
o s? s in forced
b the labor that
The
s comi are
majo
e ng heavily
rity
r year impacting
of
v s. the
Chin
a This market.
ese
t is
orga The
i parti
nic recent
o cular
Back to Contents • 50
outbrea sudd one seaso la t ant , it has In Xi , the
k of en ema n of c t dairy since the nji domesti
COVID- canc il. producers farmi k o proce decert sho an c
19 has elati Suc now have ng o n ssing ified rt g cotton
exacerb on h to worry with f p comp some run (8 price
ated of a imp about non- m r any of its , 6 (CCInde
this larg acts their organi o o that organic cot pe x3128B)
situatio e are survival, c m d purch dairy ton rc droppe
n. The num likel since they practi e u ased farms. far en d to
outbrea ber y to are more ces is n c organi This me t RMB12,
k has of be vulnerabl suffici t ti c implies rs in 195/to
little orde prof e due to ent to u o cotton that see 20 n,
impact rs. oun the high dama m n seed the m 19 RMB3,3
on For d investmen ge the in b as deman to ). 85/ton
cotton exa and t and organi m y feed d for be Th lower
growing mpl long overhead c ai t from organic una e than
activitie e, a - costs. farms n h the cotton ffe CO what it
s; maj lasti They are which t e existin seed cte VI was a
howeve or ng. in a have ai o g will be d D- year
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have a ucer anic despite devel n g organi d the ou The
serious com cott there oped g a c signific vir tb demand
impact plain on being over a n cotton antly.1 us re for
on ed significant many n i farms Given so ak locally
internat that uncertaint years d c has this, it far. als produce
ional its y around and e d experi is Chi o d
buyers’ main purchase with x a enced expect na’ hit cotton
decision buye orders in heavy p ir huge ed s th was also
- r the invest a y losses that, cot e negativ
making canc coming ments n s from in the ton co ely
. The eled years, . d e its forese pro tto affected
wide- abo they have in c organi eable duc n .
spread ut More g t c milk future, tio pri Accordi
no choice
lockdo 80 over, o o busine n ce ng to
but to
wn on perc it r r ss hig . China
keep
oversea ent seem g . since hly In Cotton
investing
s of s a T 2018. con Ma Associatio
in the
market its that ni h To cen rc n,
organic
s has orde there c e reduc tra h compared
cotton
resulte rs is c g e tes 20 with
farm.
d in the by also o i losses 20 February
Even one- in
a
Back to Contents • 51
2019, in far on hly i l n s in s : lly
Februar mer sub volatile. s i u n fro
y 2020, s sid In 2014, g f b er a ( m
the see y the l i a si s r 1 pla
consum m poli Chinese o b r d wi e ) yer
ption of una cy, governm w l m y th s in
domesti ffec whi ent e e e s in l d the
c cotton ted ch introduc r r y th i e glo
was and pro ed the f s s e k c bal
only the vid so-called t o t sp e l val
7.82 y es Target- h r m e e l i ue
million hav sti Price a u m ci y n cha
tons, e mul Subsidy n r s , fi i in;
reducin alre us Program e t a e t n (2)
g by ady to (TPSP) t c n d o g risi
0.2 star far in h e r d ti ng
million ted me e i e s m b d cos
tons or the rs v g e e e e t of
3.1 ne to l i i ll p m agri
percen w gro a n s t e a a cult
t, and 202 w t g t h ri f n ural
cotton 0/2 cot t e e o f d inp
import 1 ton e t r ir d. e uts;
s gro by r h c c d (3)
droppe win sec . e t o In t o uns
d to g uri o t th e w tab
1.88 sea ng I s t e d n le
million son the n u t o lo s sub
tons, . ir b h n n b t sidy
decrea Thi inc o s e t g- e r poli
sing by s is om r i o ru c e cy
0.1 to a e, d d g t n, a a due
million larg esp e i o h h u m to
tons or e eci r e v e o s , tigh
8.3 ext ally s e c w e ter
percen ent wh t , r e ev e stat
t.2 a en o n r er o s e
res the c m ti , f p bud
Howev ult ma b o e fi fa e get
er, so of rke e t n e r t c ;
far, the t is t t d m h i (4)
cotton cott hig e o g er e a lim
Back to Contents • 52
it i ; (in y ) .
e t par 1
Source: Xinjiang. Under
d h a ticu ht t p: / / ww w. yt pp .c o the TPSP, the
m .c n/ da t a / 2 01 9- 04 -
r n lar, 01/ 59 01 7. ht m l ; government
http://www.ce.cn/cysc/s
o t d foo p/info/201809/27/t2018
0927_30391110.shtml
o h d 2
Source:
m e ( sec http://www.xinhuanet.c
om/fashion/2020-
in 6 uri 04/21/c_1125878510.ht
m
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a r has
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o a o a
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( w t n
5 e i aro
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rt i o and
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t o for
y a t ma
a n h ize
ss d e hav
o r e
ci t ris
a h c en
t e r dra
e o ma
d U p tic
w S s all
Back to Contents • 53
What are the biggest challenges
Q climate change poses to organic
cotton production in China?
growers); (2) rotating cotton and wheat/
soybean (common among large growers)
and non-tillage; and (3) recycling cotton
Warming temperature is the biggest residual. These measures all have the
challenge and threat. It leads to more potential of reducing emissions and carbon
frequent and complex pest and disease footprints, while improving soil fertility,
incidence, as well as faster decomposition attracting and nourishing natural enemies,
of soil organic matter and soil water and increasing cotton yield and carbon
depletion. Organic cotton farmers are likely sequestration.
to incur greater production costs as a result
because they have to (1) look for organic
alternatives to control pests and diseases,
Q Any other observations or
comments to add?
and (2) meet the increasing demand of the For the textile industry, in addition to
plants for nutrients and water. COVID-19, the reports of forced labor
in Xinjiang is a serious concern. Many
Q What are some of the main
adaptation measures you see being
leading international brands have already
announced that they will not source
used by organic farmers?
products produced in Xinjiang, and BCI
The measures mainly include: (1) growing has suspended activities with licensed
varieties that can better adapt to climate cotton farmers in the region. Recently,
change; (2) use of biological pest and the US has passed the Uyghur Forced
disease control technologies, for example Labor Prevention Act, which bans the
applying biopesticides, introducing natural import
enemies, using sex baits, and planting of any products produced in Xinjiang,
chrysanthemums; (3) applying formulated/ including clothes, unless approved by US
balanced/precise fertilization and irrigation Customs and Boarder Protection. Given
technologies; and (4) deep plow. the importance of Xinjiang in China’s cotton
production, all Chinese players along the
Back to Contents
Photo (right): © CottonConnect, China • 51
East Asia REGIONAL PRODUCTION
98 2
XINJIANG
Organic cotton fiber (MT)
19,464 GANSU
1,279 Organic certified land (ha) 7% 40,645 MT
Organic farmers Fiber (MT)
year-on-year growth
581 MT
710
Organic in-conversion land (ha)
17.2%
Share of global organic cotton produ
M, L 0.68%
Fiber lengths grown NA of China's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20 5-
Y
E
A
R
P
R
O
D
U
C
TI
O
N
T
R
E
1
N
Organic Fiber Production (MT)
5
0
4
3
0
2
2 1
M
T
10,000
B
a
East Asia
China | 2018/19 organic cotton production
ed labor in the Xinjiang region of China, where most of China’s organic cotton is grown, as well as reports of forced and child labor in other parts of the world that have occurred over the past several years.
on that has been submitted to us, analyzed, and cross-referenced in accordance with our . We include the data received from every producing country in the Organic Cotton Market Report to create a complete pictur
e on-the-ground program work regarding the production of organic cotton or any other fiber in any country, nor make recommendations for preferred sourcing locations.
n industry resource. Because China, and Xinjiang in particular, is a key producing region, leaving its reported production out of this report would result in the report not being truly representative of the global organic cott
practices in the textile value chain. This goes hand-in-hand with social responsibility expectations to ensure that the rights of all people, particularly workers, are respected.
• 53
East Asia
China | Initiative insights
Veronica Yow
Senior Manager
Rare
Hear more from Veronica in our Insider Series interview.
Back to Contents
Photo (right): © Mariano Mejía Valenzuela for South Pole 54
EMENA,
Central &
Western Asia
Photo: © Cotonea
Back to Contents
• 55
EMENA, Central & Western Asia REGIONAL PRODUCTION
33,313
2 38 39S
GREECE TURKEY KYRGYZSTAN
1,577 Organic certified land (ha) 32%
Organic farmers Fiber (MT)
year-on-year growth 1,168 MT
22,
60,110 11,069 25.07% M, L
G
Organic cotton fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production Fiber lengths grown
22%
Estimated growth in fiber production
3.98%
of this region's cotton is organic
5-
Y
E
A
R
P
R
O
D
U
C
TI
O
N
TRENDS
2
5
1
2
Organic Fiber Production (MT)
T
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IS
5
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N
12
,1
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B
a
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
TEam insights
the struggle against COVID-19, workers
should abide by the protective regulations Q What are some of the main
adaptation and / or mitigation
in order not to be victims of the pandemic, measures you see being used by
and discrimination against those who have organic cotton farmers?
been infected with the disease should
Sustainable water management is the only
Atila Ertem be prevented. Several NGOs work on
solution for adaptation; however, training
Textile Exchange Ambassador, awareness campaigns and have started
for this is not provided by the Government
training programs. Mobile health teams
Turkey & Central Asia nor by buyers of the organic cotton.
distribute informational leaflets to make sure
Farmers are left alone with this problem
residents know how to keep safe and are
able to identify the symptoms of COVID-19. and only farmers who are financially well-off
W and an le foods
Q h
a
lon
g-
d
pr
(such as
rice,
t ter od cereals,
m uct lentils,
d im io and
n
o pac chickpea
tre
ts nd s) as a
y of s result of
o the in COVID-
u CO thi 19, the
VI s expectati
e D- re ons of
x 19 gi
cotton
on
p pan growers
?
e de have also
c mi Wit increase
t c h d. If the
wil the cotton
t l pric price
h be e does not
e on incr rise to
org ease the same
s ani s extent
h c seen (approxi
o cot in mately
r ton Turk 15-20
t far ey percent),
- me for organic
rs stap farmers
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
in bl gro from g isis ul particularly
this b m y
Turkey e win moveme a and tu at risk,
bears e e o
will to g nt n wo ra with living
at the a of u
choose he are restricti i rki l conditions
same s har
to plant lp, as. ons, c ng w that make
time s ves h
to
food as Alt or both
high u t. a
crops in tra hou c im k social
risks m Ma v
the vel gh o pro er distancing
for e ny e
coming res sea t ve s and
outbre d cer a
year. tri son t eco a frequent
aks of t tifi n
This cti al o no n handwashi
COVID- h cati y
could on agr n mi d ng a
19 a on c
potentia s icul th challenge.
among t bod g resi
lly lead du tur f ei The ILO
the t ies o
to a e al a lie r office in
tent h hav o nce
substant to wo r fa Turkey has
settle e e d
ial CO rk m and mi warned
ment si star e saf
decreas VI is li that, in
reside t ted e egu
e in the D- con r es
nts. u rem x ard
area 19 sid s ,
a ote a ing
under mi ere a w
No ti aud m
organic gh d r in ho
long- o its p
cotton. t ess e lig no
term n and l
pr ent ht r
effec w are e
With ev ial c of m
ts are il ext s
harves en and o CO all
antici l end t
t time t , p VI y
pated h ing o
getting wo agr i D- liv
from a the
closer, rk icul n 19? e
the v vali s
farmer ers tur g in
prese e dity h S
s are fro al te
nt e of a e
worrie m wo w nt
suspe a the r a
d tra rke i settl
nsion s org e s
about vel rs t emen
of e ani o o
having ing hav h ts
physi d c f n
enoug to e durin
cal b cer h a
h th be t g the
inspe y tifi o l
season e en h work
ction t cat w a
al co exe e seaso
s as h es. g
worke tto mp n,
it e o ri
rs c
Q
n- ted can Do r c are
availa ti r
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Residen hal part g a major examp c e s r m
ts are len of negative le, less a r v t p g e
informe ge the impact on rain n a a r a n
d about s sout the during c r i a n t
proper cli hern availabilit the i a i n c i i
hygiene ma belt y of water harves n t o a t z n
and te of for t v c u b i a g
handwa ch Medi agricultur period e h s l c t
shing an terr al means s m e a i s
techniq ge anea productio that t e i l o u
ues po n n. Cotton Turkey n n c n s
that ses Euro uses a is in i t i o a s t
can to pe, large the n t t s a
help or the amount of positio b i t p n i
prevent ga coun water n to t a a o e e n
transmi nic try both to produc h s t n c e a
ssion of cot is produce ea e i i t d b
the ton alre and to higher i n v p s i
virus. pr ady process. quality r s e r t l
od facin Besides of . s o a o i
W
h
uct
ion
g an
obse
water
scarcity,
Q
cotto
n.
o
w
Any
d
d
Q
u
r
e d
t
y
a in othe
rved farmers n e c e
t thi r
war are also a t o a o
s obse
ming affected w l i f l n
a reg rvati
tren by e i o t
r ion ons
d in occasiona l n n e m t
e ? or
temp l l g , n o h
com
eratu excessive s r e
t Turk men
ey is res, rains. It w h n e
h ts
and should o i o e f
e high add?
ly a fall not go r t w g w i
in unnoted T h e l i e
b vuln
erab preci that r h v e t l
i
pitat climate a e m e c h d
g le
to ion change i r o r t
g
- tre might also n e r , e i b
e clim
ate nds bear e d m y
s
that certain w a t . p
t cha
nge are advantage a r s h l s
havin s: for t e u e O e u
c . As
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
p t i eivi o a r t'
p t c ng p n t s
o o trai p i b
r n c nin o z i e
t o g r a m c
i g t or t t p l
n r t con u i r o
g o o sult n o o s
w n anc i n v e
f e y t s e r
a r p and y m t
r s r sus t e o
m o tai f o n t
e - j nab o t h
r e ilit r s s e
s t c y is u . s
h t oft o p o
w e s en r p L il
i onl g o e !
t g i ya
h e n phr
re n ase B
a
sp e T .
ec r u Thi
tiv a r s
e l k situ
co e ati
ns m y on
ult o is a
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g e e
se l a cha
rvi r lle
ce o e nge
s. f n but
Co o ope
nt o t ns
ra r up
ct g r an
ed a e are
co n c a of
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Egypt | 2018/19 organic cotton production
219
18
Organic certified land (ha) 34.4%1
Fiber (MT)
Organic farmers year-on-year growth
287 0 0.12%
Organic cotton fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production
M, L, ELS 0.26%
Fiber lengths grown 21% of Egypt's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20
ced in Egypt should be organic; we believe that this is the only way to go forwards. We try to motivate more farmers, and we think that the farmers who try organic will see the benefits and continue. Next to this, we want
build integrity with the farmers. With this certificate, farmers can tell their story and show that when, for example, the GOTS certification is too difficult to get because of pollution, this is a problem beyond their own power
1
Please note that revisions have been made to Egypt’s historical organic cotton production figures after it was realized that our reporting cycle was one
year ahead. In summary: Egypt’s 2015/16 organic cotton fiber production was 459 MT; 2016/17 was 635 MT; 2017/18 was 438 MT, and 2018/19 was
287 MT.
Back to Contents 58
Photo (top right): Greening the desert - Wahat El-Bahareyya farm, Egypt. © SEKEM / Naturetex.
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Greece | 2018/19 organic cotton production
1,460
No data
Organic certified land (ha) 12%
Fiber (MT)
Organic farmers year-on-year growth
M 0.39%
Fiber lengths grown 0% of Greece's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20
12,852
220
Organic certified land (ha) 6%
Fiber (MT)
Organic farmers year-on-year growth
M
Fiber lengths grown 1% Unknown% 1
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20 of Kyrgyzstan's cotton is organic
1
This data point is derived from the difference between Textile Exchange's reported organic cotton production and ICAC's country total for cotton
production. In the case of Kyrgyzstan, there is a significant discrepancy between the two, with ICAC estimating 11,535 MT fiber, while organic
cotton is estimated at 23,637 MT. We are trying our best to understand more about this discrepancy. In summary, Textile Exchange's methodology
involves collecting and triangulating data from farms and traders, certification bodies, and government officials. You can learn more about Textile
Exchange’s data collection methodology here, and about the sources of ICAC’s cotton statistics here.
Photo (right): Farmers of the organic and Fairtrade cooperative, ACSC Bio
60
Back to Contents Farmer, during harvest © Cotonea.
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Tajikistan | 2018/19 organic cotton production
8,114
955
Organic certified land (ha) 35%
Fiber (MT)
Organic farmers year-on-year growth
M 11.93
s (seed, organic fertilizers, and organic pest controls) to farmers. The cooperative decided to use its profit gained in 2019 and%its Fairtrade Premium to support farmers [during this crisis]. Protection masks, disinfectants, and
ertilizers. Fiber lengths grown 23 % of Tajikistan's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20
Back to Contents Photo (top right): Inspection day for farmers of the Bio-Kishovarz Cooperative in
61
Tajikistan © Bio-Kishovarz Cooperative
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Turkey | 2018/19 organic cotton production
10,668
384 Organic certified land (ha) 77%1
Organic farmers Fiber (MT)
year-on-year growth
M, L 2.34%
Fiber lengths grown 36% of Turkey's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20
Join us for the 3rd Regional OCRT for Turkey, Central Asia & Egypt
udes environmental (regenerative) highest and the cotton quality amongoutcomes, social and cultural, as well the finest. Textile mills, manufacturers,as economic outcomes for farmers to brands, and retailers the world
The regenerative and sustainable development opportunities associated with organic cotton in Turkey are significant. Textile Exchange and SANKO would welcome hearing
Join us for our virtual Organic Cotton Round Table “in Turkey.” While we have had to postpone our in-person meeting and farm visits
this year, we are hoping to bring you something just as engaging and very special. More detail on the Turkish and other Regional Organic Cotton Round Tables is coming soo
Contact OCRT@ TextileExchange.org to register your interest.
Loyalty and commitment are important to SANKO’s owners with the most recent example of what the company stands for
A new GIZ project is underway in Uzbekistan supporting the production of organic cotton.
The first year of certification was 2019/20, which falls under our next reporting cycle, so
production data is not counted in this report. Learn more about the project from GIZ below.
“
Given its relevance as well as its contributions to the achievement of several
SDGs (1, 2, 5, 8, 9, 12, and 17), fostering the Uzbek cotton sector and assisting
with the ongoing reforms by the Uzbek government has become a major concern
for the international community – and thus for GIZ. The GIZ project “Sustainability
and Value Added in the Cotton Industry in Uzbekistan” is part of the global
program “Sustainability and Value Added in Agricultural Supply Chains,” which
is a multidimensional program that targets sustainable progress in the social, textile sector, which focused on occupational health and safety measures,
ecological, and economic aspects of different crop industries worldwide. The employer protection and social conduct at the workplace. The outcomes
component in Uzbekistan started in September 2019 and focuses on the serve as the basis for the training of employers and workers on corporate
cotton and textile industry only. It comprises all steps of the value chain, which social responsibility, occupational health and safety, and on workers’ rights.
fall into three interrelated areas of action.
3. Finally, linking the Uzbek cotton and textile sector to the international
1. The primary cotton production – GIZ commissions agricultural experts to markets - here, traceability instruments, and most of all, sustainability
inform and train cluster managers and farmers on sustainable farming standards (e.g., BCI, organic), play a big role as they require high ecological
practices such as organic cotton or BCI cotton and to act as farm and social conditions. In return, they increase the credibility of the cotton
advisers. Farmers hence get assistance in the application of improved farm and textile value chain with respect to responsible sourcing. Certifications
management practices and business models as well as in the introduction thus facilitate the market access and export promotion to new markets,
of innovative technologies. Moreover, GIZ cooperates with international increasing the range of new and conscientious clients. Within this frame,
organizations, NGOs, and local decision-makers to promote dialogue about GIZ has furthermore planned an incubator and accelerator program for
workers’ rights, social sustainability and the benefits of worker unions. local entrepreneurs with a focus on women entrepreneurs. Now, dialogue,
exchange, and cooperation within the Uzbek fashion community is
2. The improvement of local processing in textile clusters – where creation of
strengthened, which can have a positive impact on the overall perception
sustainable jobs and increased income in the processing industry stand in
and self-confidence of the sector.
the focus. A shift towards better paid and more qualified jobs is decisive for
the economic, regional and demographic development. Simultaneously, the
negative consequences of mechanization are outbalanced by the creation of
Florian Nitzinger
new jobs. The inclusion of more processing steps furthermore creates new
income opportunities and employment prospects within the cotton economy. Project Manager
Finally, support in market access underlines the sustainability of the created GIZ
workplaces and promotes a shift towards markets that request sustainable
value chains as well as responsible sourcing and production conditions.
Ba nts
GIZ has recently conducted a survey on the training needs assessment of ck Photo
(top
the to right)
C :
on Mem
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EMENA, Central & Western Asia
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IZ
South & Southeast
Asia
Back to Contents
• 65
South & Southeast Asia REGIONAL PRODUCTION
100
PAKISTAN MYANMAR
303,698
1
170,829
123,072 40,892
Organic certified land (ha) 44% In-
Organic Conversion
Organic cottonfarmers
fiber (MT)1 Organic in-conversion land (ha) Fiber (MT) 5
year-on-year growth
1
.
3
2
%
S
S, M, L, ELS
Fiber lengths grown 3 1
%
Estimated .
7
1
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o
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99
140,00 E INDIA
0 A
R
120,00
P
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R 122,668
1
MT
T
Organic Fiber Production (MT)
100,00 O
0 D India Pakistan H
U A
Thailand
80,000 C I
T L
60,000
I A
40,000 O N
N D
T
R
E 6
N
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S T
1
20,000
0
2014-15
20 2015-16 1
Please note that organic cotton in
15 Thailand is produced under the
Participatory Guarantee System
- 2018-19 (PGS), rather than third-party
16 certification.
B
a
South & Southeast Asia
TEam insights
result in changes to consumer behavior
and to decisions made by brands and Q Any other observations or comments
to add?
retailers to support their supplier
chains. Innovative business models have the
potential to resolve all issues, including
Amish Gosai
South Asia Manager,
Q What are the biggest challenges
climate change poses to organic
those brought about by COVID-19. They
should ensure:
cotton production in South Asia?
Textile Exchange • direct business relations with
South Asia is home to some of the most farmers/ farm groups;
climate change-vulnerable countries in the
world. • direct payment with transparency;
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a d w 19 will
t lo ill no
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e e issues Content the har eme on we will impa glo is an
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Howev n n groups are r . t etail
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South & Southeast Asia
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u r r guid 67
s y e
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South & Southeast Asia
India | 2018/19 organic cotton production
1
Source: https://farmer.gov.in/mspstatements.aspx
2
“An Internal Control System is the part of a documented quality assurance system that allows an external certification body to delegate the periodical
inspection of individual group members to an identified body or unit within the certified operator. This means that the third- party certification bodies
only have to inspect the well-functioning of the system, as well as to perform a few spot-check re-inspections of individual smallholders.”
[IFOAM - Organics International].
Back to Contents
Photo (right): Preparation of organic pesticide © Dinesh Khanna for Laudes Foundation • 68
South & Southeast Asia INDIA PRODUCTION BY STATE
India | Program insights
1
HARYANA
287 MT MADHYA
5 19
RAJASTHAN PRADESH
S9
6,205 MT 23,675 MT
23
GUJARAT
28,556 MT
23
MAHARASHTR
29
ODISHA
A
27,944 MT 34,990 MT
1
TELANGANA
1
TAMIL
NADU
619 MT
391 MT
Back to Contents • 69
South & Southeast Asia
India | Program insights | COVID-19 responses
In the short-term, activities such as land preparation are being delayed and, due
to social distancing requirements, farmers are being forced to use tractors for
land preparation, which comes at an additional cost.
Almost all farmers depend on other, non-farm income streams to cope with
their day to day expenses (e.g. through milk/input sales or through women-led
self-help group activities), but these have come to a standstill.
Suminter has distributed facemasks, soaps, and hygiene products to all the
villages where we work. We have also distributed essential ration items worth
Rs700/ to each farmer in need. Our field staff is engaged in giving proper
training to villages on social distancing and personal hygiene. A few women
self-help groups working in our project area are involved in making reusable
Action for Social Advancement (ASA), in partnership with Laudes
face masks.
Foundation, is working on expansion of organic cotton in the tribal region of
In the longer term, farmers are concerned about prices and demand. Most of Madhya Pradesh with a key emphasis on the value chain integration of producers
them are in a dilemma about how cotton as a product is going to perform in through farmer producer collectives.
the coming harvest season.
It is difficult to predict the future of funding possibilities right now. The
need is to think innovatively and quickly. We are seeing farmers distress selling
Ishwar Ilanchezian because of the lack of demand, which market assessments indicate won’t
Director - Textile Division normalize until November 2020. We quickly realized
Suminter India Organics Pvt. Ltd. that this challenge is an opportunity to strengthen farmer institutions to help
their own community. The best way to help the farmers is material
Hear more from Ishwar in our Insider Series interview.
procurement at a comparable price to last year.
Ashis Mondal
Director
Action for Social Advancement (ASA)
Hear more from Ashis in our Insider Series interview.
The biggest threat related to climate change and organic farming is the
timing of the sowing season. Historically, cotton is sown in early June but,
due to climate change, monsoon season has become more unpredictable,
making it harder for farmers to plan their production cycles. There has been
an increase in natural disaster conditions, and most organic cotton is rainfed.
When your partner is nature, your entire
livelihood is dependent on managing your crops in conjunction with the
weather; the climate situation is getting more concerning to our RESET farmers
and other farmers worldwide.
Marci Zaroff
Founder/CEO
ECOfashion Corp/MetaWear
Hear more from Marci in our Insider Series interview.
Christa Suter
CEO
bioRe® Foundation
Hear more from Christa in our Insider Series interview.
Back to Contents Photos: (left) © RESET and (right) © Joerg Boethling for bioRe® Foundation • 71
South & Southeast Asia
India | Program insights | Climate impacts & actions
For next year, along with improving organic practices, we will focus on
strengthening farmer resilience to cope with shocks such as COVID and climate
change. We will work on building transformative partnerships with stakeholders.
To help farmers face climate change-related challenges, we will promote bio-
dynamic (BD) farming practices, including the use of more acceptable and
Welspun, in collaboration with MIT media lab - Open Ag, is working on a
sustainable BD products. We will work on select biofortified crops for crop
project to grow specialty cotton (long to extra-long staple) sustainably in the
nutrition. We will supplement our training with risk-mitigation plans to boost
semi-arid region of Kutch District in Gujarat, India. This area is better known for
biodiversity, support the environment, and build more resilient cotton farming.
growing medium staple cotton in open fields. This collaboration was undertaken
We will roll out more comprehensive interventions to include health, hygiene,
to support farmers by developing appropriate cotton production technologies
and enterprise development for holistic farming community development.
that factor in current challenges related to climate change. Today, resources like
healthy soil, water, and farm biodiversity have become scarce. This scarcity
makes it challenging for farmers to sustain their livelihood as they can easily
Ravindra Narayanaswamy Senior become trapped in vicious cycles of debt caused by unpredicted rains
Director- Farm Operations (drought/floods), pest problems, and the availability of genuine quality inputs.
CottonConnect The technology that we are using is Hydroponic. Initially, we started it in a reefer
Hear more from Ravindra in our Insider Series interview. container using a completely controlled environment and providing artificial
Read CottonConnect's new research on the impact of light
COVID-19 on farming communities. to grow cotton. Now we have taken it to a bigger scale and are using natural
light. Natural light is available in abundance and can help to bring down the cost
of electricity in a greenhouse, which provides a controlled environment using a
fan pad system. The temperature inside the facility is maintained between 25 and
38° C.
Mahesh Ramakrishnan
Senior Vice President - Sustainable
Cotton Welspun Group
Hear more from Mahesh in our Insider Series interview.
Mathilde Tournebize
Programme Officer
Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA)
Hear more from OCA in our Insider Series interview with Bart
Vollaard, Executive Director.
781
Organic certified land (ha) New
4,003 Fiber (MT)
Organic farmers year-on-year growth
M 0.02%
Fiber lengths grown 0% of Pakistan's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20
poor linkages between seed companies, local seed dealers, and programme farmers, which has limited access to quality, GMO free cotton seed. Overall, this may impact the quantity and quality of the next harvest. Similarly
2018/19 saw Pakistan’s first harvest of
These organizations are also working with
certified organic cotton, with production
local textile players to improve supply chain
totaling 398 MT fiber grown on 781 ha
mechanisms and motivate them to support
of land.
the scaling up of organic cotton cultivation
This production is a result of the partnership in Balochistan.
between WWF Pakistan, Laudes
Learn more about this project from
Foundation, Directorate of Agriculture
Hafiz Muhammad Bakhsh of WWF
Extension - Balochistan, and CABI, which
Pakistan (opposite) and in our Insider
is promoting organic cotton in selected
Series. Hafiz Muhammad Bakhsh Manager Organic Cotton Project WWF Pakistan
areas of Balochistan.
Back to Contents
Photo (top right): © WWF Pakistan 74
South & Southeast Asia
Thailand | 2018/19 organic cotton production
46* 46*
Organic farmers Organic certified land (ha) 9%
*all producing under PGS1 *all farmed under PGS1 Fiber (MT)
year-on-year growth
6* 0 0.003%
Organic Cotton Fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production
*all produced under PGS1
S 0.51%
Fiber lengths grown 18% of Thailand's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20
Thailand in late March 2020 and, as things seems to get better, the restrictions are gradually being relaxed. Now [as of June 2020], the situation inside the country is almost back to normal. There appears to be very little im
cantly. It is hard to see when or whether the sale will pick up again.
1
Participatory Guarantee Systems (PGS) are an alternative to third-party certification. As per IFOAM - Organic International’s definition, PGS are
locally focused quality assurance systems that certify producers based on the active participation of stakeholders and are built on a foundation of trust,
social networks, and knowledge exchange. IFOAM - Organics International has a list of recognized PGS programs.
75
Back to Contents
Photo (top right): © Green Net Cooperative, Thailand
South & Southeast Asia
Myanmar | In-conversion
Back to Contents 76
Photo (right): © Pure Sense Organics Myanmar Ltd.
Standards &
Certification
Back to Contents • 77
Standards & certification
OCS & GOTS certified facilities 2019 1
6,181
(2019)
5,760 Other Countries Italy Germany Turkey Bangladesh China South Korea
(2018)
4,642 5,024
GOTS: 1,043 • OCS: 532 444 565 858 • 1,262 1,194 • 1,139 448 • 880 243
4,179 2
(2016) (2017) (2018)
3,814 3,661 3,643
(2015) 3,126 (2016) (2017)
(2015)
7,765 (🡑 35 %) 6,181 (🡑 48 %)
Certified Facilities 2019
Certified Facilities 2019
Back to Contents • 78
Standards & certification
2
Please note that this number has been revised since the 2019 Organic Cotton Market Report, which stated 4,179 OCS certified facilities in 2018, due to the finalization of reported numbers by some certification bodies.
Back to Contents • 79
Organic Content Standard
each buyer and seller of OCS certified • Organic wool inputs must be non- Content Claim Standard 3.0
product. The ending result is a consumer- mulesed (according to the non-
facing logo and claim about the organically mulesed definition of the Responsible The Organic Content Standard (OCS) uses
grown content. Wool Standard) or from a farm with the chain of custody requirements of the
ceased- mulesing status. Content Claim Standard (CCS). The CCS
The OCS also allows labeling of verified ensures a robust chain of custody system
in-conversion or in-conversion organically • Certified organizations must now from the source to the final product.
The Organic Content Standard (OCS) is grown material in order to provide those maintain technical specifications for all
an international, voluntary standard that farmers that are required to wait two OCS materials. Textile Exchange recently launched a
provides chain of custody verification for to three years when switching from • Number of OCS certified facilities revision of the CCS, for which the
materials originating on a farm certified to conventionally grown crops with an increases 48 percent in 2019. open feedback period has just
recognized national organic standards. The incentive to do so. concluded.
• 2019 saw record growth for Organic You can find a summary of the feedback
standard is used to verify organically grown
Launch of Organic Content Standard 3.0 Content Standard (OCS) certified received here.
raw materials from the farm to the final
facilities. The total number of facilities
product.
Following a revision period for the OCS grew 48 percent, from 4,179 in We are now requesting stakeholder
Originally released in 2013, the goal of 2.0 in 2019, Textile Exchange launched 2018 to 6,181 in 2019. In terms of participation in the CCS International
the OCS is to increase organic OCS 3.0 on March 1, 2020. All audits actual number of facilities, the largest Working Group (IWG) to assist in the
agriculture production. The OCS aims to conducted after February 28, 2021, shall contributors to the global growth were development of the CCS 3.0. If you are
deliver this goal through three key be conducted using OCS 3.0. Turkey (+697 facilities), India (+374), interested in joining the IWG, please read
objectives: and China (+167). See previous page this quick guide and email Standards@
The updates to the standard include: on certified facilities for further details. TextileExchange.org.
1. Provide the industry with a tool to verify
the organically grown content of the • The former OCS Implementation Manual
products they purchase. is now divided into two documents.
The OCS User Manual provides
2. Provide companies with a trusted tool to The Organic Content Standard was our first standard and the basis of
interpretation and guidance for users of
communicate organically grown content the standard while the OCS Certification establishing our Chain of Custody, which is the backbone for all of our
claims to the industry. Procedures details requirements standards. I am proud of the evolution of the OCS through the revision process.
3. Provide organic farmers with broad certification bodies must follow. It remains a key tool for supporting and stabilizing organic fibers.
access to the global organic market for • More robust traceability between the
their products. farm and first processor.
The OCS requires certification of the entire • GMO testing for organic cotton must La Rhea Pepper
supply chain starting at the first processor occur in accordance with Textile Managing Director
of organically grown material through to Exchange’s OCS-103 GMO Screening Textile Exchange
the final business-to-business seller. It also of Organic Cotton.
requires transaction certificates between
Global Organic Textile Standard
Back to Contents • 82
2020 methodology & disclaimer
Back to Contents • 83
GOV = government agency; CB = certification body; OCP = organic
Country G C O G Ot
cotton producer; P = primary data source; S = secondary data source. For the 2020 Organic Cotton Market Report, the likely to be based on actual production, whereas data
O B C i her final organic cotton production data was based on reported by Certification Bodies is likely to be based on
V P n data sourced from Government Agencies estimated production. Production volume collected from
Argentina P (15 percent), Certification Bodies (35 percent), varying data sources is reported in OCMR on an as-is basis
Organic Cotton Producers (41 percent), Ginners (3 and does not account for any variance between estimated and
Australia P
percent), and Others (9 percent). Note that actual production.
Bangladesh P in some countries, data may be combined from
Benin P more than a single source. Historical or Average Yields: Where data is only provided for
Brazil P P land area but not the production volumes, historical yields
Data analysis and checks known for the specific project or locality or annual national
Burkina P
average yields (as agreed by the government and applied by
Faso
Textile Exchange makes every attempt to obtain a certifying bodies) have been used to calculate the production
China P P P
single complete data set per country from volume.
Colombia P Certification Body, a secondary data source from an
Egypt S P Organic Cotton Producer, and where possible, a third Land Area Certified to Organic: In selected cases where the
Ethiopia S P data source from alternative stakeholders. The land area under organic cotton is reported and total land area
different data sets are harmonized for metric certified to organic is reported, the latter is estimated to be
Greece P consistency, and in the case of missing data equal to the former.
India S P S or data deviation, scenarios, or average data are
Israel P used. Collecting data from multiple sources allows Ginning Outturn: Where only seed cotton data is available, lint
Textile Exchange to triangulate the information production is estimated using the ginning outturn known for
Kyrgyzstan P
from different providers and cross- check against the country.
Mali P data reported in the past. In the case of
Mexico P inconsistencies, rationales for decision- making are Estimation for Intercrops: Where only total certified land
defined in a systematic process and documented. area was reported, the average rate of intercrops was
Myanmar P
In case of data gaps, where possible historical data applied to derive fiber production (e.g., in India, the
Nicaragua P and industry averages are inferred. Where data gaps estimate is 33 percent as per Certification Body
Pakistan P S cannot be filled, methodology).
partial data is reported and marked as a general
Paraguay P
indication. The final aggregates are proofed by
Peru S P Land In-Conversion: In selected cases where in- conversion
industry experts.
organic cotton fiber production from land area in-conversion
Senegal P is reported and land area in-conversion is not reported, the
South P Special remarks - supply side yield is applied as the divisor to derive land area in-
Africa conversion.
Tajikistan S P Production Volume: A Certification Body
estimates the production volume of an Organic
Tanzania S P
Cotton Producer at the time of audit. Within the
Thailand P certification process, a variance of up to 10
Turkey S P percent is permitted between estimated production
Uganda S P (at time of audit) and actual harvest
(post-audit). As at time of data collection, Organic
USA S S P Cotton Producers would have realized its harvest, data
Uzbekistan S P collected from Organic Cotton Producers is
Zambia P
Reporting limitations
• The integrity of organic cotton is
assumed addressed through the
certification process and that all
organic cotton production data
provided by data sources are
certified.
Table: Revisions to 2017/18 organic cotton production data reported in the 2019 Organic Cotton Market Report.
Disclaimer
Textile Exchange collects and reports production of replace these values with best estimates from
certified organic cotton data from Accreditation historical or comparable proxies. Data reported may
Bodies, Certification Bodies, Organic Cotton change due to corrections or updates from data
Producers as well as other stakeholders on an as- is sources.
basis. Data reported is intended as a snapshot of
production and makes no representation on total For the purpose of the OCMR, organic cotton does
supply. While Textile Exchange carries out a systematic not include any uncertified naturally grown cotton, nor
completeness and accuracy check on its data does it make any statement regarding the integrity
collection process; we rely on our data providers for beyond its certification, and reported numbers, as
data accuracy and integrity. Where data gaps exist, reported by our data providers.
Textile Exchange attempts to
84
Back to Contents Photo: © PAN Ethiopia
Appendices
Back to Contents • 85
Appendices
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Acknowledgments
It has been a privilege to work alongside the committed community of organic cotton farmers, manufacturers, brands, and retailers to generate this report. We
would like to extend our sincere gratitude to all that have contributed data, expertise, updates, and photos for their continued and valuable co-operation:
Action for Social Advancement (ASA) • Alliance Ginneries Ltd • APEDA • ARMEDANGELS • Bergman Rivera • Bio-Kishovarz
Cooperative• bioRe® Foundation • BioSustain • Control Union • Cotlook • CottonConnect • Cotonea / Gebr. Elmer &
Zweifel GmbH & Co. KG • ECOCERT • ECOfashion Corp/MetaWear • ecos • EMBRAPA Algodão • ESPLAR • Fair
Cert • Fairtrade • FENABE • GIZ • GOTS • Green Net Cooperative • ITOCHU Corporation • Laudes
Foundation • Naturetex • OneCert • OBEPAB • Organic & Fairtrade Cotton Coalition (CCBE) • Organic Cotton Accelerator • Organic
Cotton Colours • Pesticide Action Network (PAN) Ethiopia • Pure Sense Organics • Rare • Remei AG • SANKO • SEKEM • Soil & More
Impacts • Soil Association • Stay True Organic • Suminter India Organics Pvt Ltd • Texas A&M AgriLife Research • Texas Organic Cotton Market
Cooperative • UNPCB • USDA Foreign Agricultural Service • Welspun Group • WWF Pakistan
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Textile Exchange envisions a global textile industry that
protects and restores the environment and enhances lives.
www.TextileExchange.org
For the latest news and trends in the wider preferred fiber
and materials landscape, check out Textile Exchange’s
2020 Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report.
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