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Two consecutive years of drought-reduced yields in 2018 and 2019, in

conjunction with steady growth in demand for organic fiber for personal care

North America products, has moved TOCMC from a substantial excess inventory position to a
pet food, and flowers). According to the
very tight supply/demand situation. A good production year will be required
Organic Trade Association’s 2019 Organic
USA | 2018/19 organic cotton in 2020 to meet the projected needs ofIndustry
Kelly Pepper
existingSurvey,
customers.
organic fiber product sales
production As of mid-May 2020, the demand forincreased
Manager
15 percent
TOCMC organic over
cotton has2017 to $1.8
not been
billion in 2018 - with most of those sales in
impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, although that could change with time.
organic cotton.
Perhaps the fact that a large majority of the fiber goes into personal care
USA due to the lack of a market at national Forecasts indicate that the amount of Texas Organic Cotton Marketing Cooperative (TOCMC)
prices, which are higher than elsewhere in organic cotton produced in 2019/20 will products rather than apparel is a significant factor in demand holding.
the world. However, a significant number increase substantially over 2018/19, with
of acres could shift to Pima in 2020/21, a limited number of in-conversion acres
which commands a higher price, as it also in the works and 20 more farmers
grows well in particular climates. While for coming on board. The organic cotton
the last several years only two farmers in market is also expanding. Organic Trade

Back to Contents • 47
North America
USA | Program insights

Funding from a 2017 National Institute for Food and Agriculture Organic
Agriculture Research and Extension Initiative award is helping Texas A&M
AgriLife Research in Lubbock, Texas, bring ten candidate varieties for organic
cotton production to the development phase by 2021.
Results from multi-year, multi-location testing show good yield potential
compared to standard check variety FM 958. Two of the candidate varieties
have a distinct leaf shape to distinguish from GMO varieties. Four candidate
varieties have exceptional fiber quality, and four show resilience to various pests
such as bacterial blight, Verticillium wilt, and root-knot nematodes. All the
candidate varieties have good adaptation to organic production in the Texas
High Plains, including good root systems, storm- proof bolls, and early maturity.
Breeder seed increases isolated from GMO and other cotton in 2019 suffered
hail damage, so seed quantity available for testing and foundation seed grow-
out in 2020 was limited.

Tests and increases in 2020 will hopefully provide enough information and seed
to select appropriate varieties and initiate grow-outs for eventual seed
production for commercial use. The research program continues to breed
cotton in new cross combinations to develop varieties suited for organic
production. Multi-year performance data from several new candidate varieties
will be ready for farmers to evaluate after the 2020 growing season, and we
will establish demonstration plots of potential new varieties with organic
farmers in 2021. The path forward is establishing the best strategy to get
improved seed into farmers’ hands.

Dr. Jane Dever


Cotton Breeder/Professor
Texas A&M AgriLife Research - Lubbock

Back to Contents
Photo (right): © Kayla Pepper 48
East Asia
Photo: © Rare, China

Back to Contents • 49
East Asia
the textile industry will be the main driving pre-announces a more reasonable
TEam insights force for organic cotton in China. targeted price (RMB186,000/ton in 2020),
which
Q What do you expect the short-
and long-term impacts of the
is used as the basis for dispensing direct
subsidies to cotton-producing farmers.
COVID-19 pandemic will be on
Jun Zhao Instead of procuring and stockpiling cotton
organic cotton farmers and
Textile Exchange Ambassador, at the targeted price, the government pays
production in China?
China farmers the difference between market
price and the target price when the former
ns prod ly the
on ucer case for

Q s those
W thi
h s inter whose
a reg view operation
t ion ed is a part
’s this of the
a or year global
r ga see value
e nic med chain,
cot very because
y ton conc of their
o pr erne highly
u od d concentra
r uct abou ted
ion t the productio
k an mark n in
e d et Xinjiang
y tre pros and the
nd pect reports of
o s? s in forced
b the labor that
The
s comi are
majo
e ng heavily
rity
r year impacting
of
v s. the
Chin
a This market.
ese
t is
orga The
i parti
nic recent
o cular
Back to Contents • 50
outbrea sudd one seaso la t ant , it has In Xi , the
k of en ema n of c t dairy since the nji domesti
COVID- canc il. producers farmi k o proce decert sho an c
19 has elati Suc now have ng o n ssing ified rt g cotton
exacerb on h to worry with f p comp some run (8 price
ated of a imp about non- m r any of its , 6 (CCInde
this larg acts their organi o o that organic cot pe x3128B)
situatio e are survival, c m d purch dairy ton rc droppe
n. The num likel since they practi e u ased farms. far en d to
outbrea ber y to are more ces is n c organi This me t RMB12,
k has of be vulnerabl suffici t ti c implies rs in 195/to
little orde prof e due to ent to u o cotton that see 20 n,
impact rs. oun the high dama m n seed the m 19 RMB3,3
on For d investmen ge the in b as deman to ). 85/ton
cotton exa and t and organi m y feed d for be Th lower
growing mpl long overhead c ai t from organic una e than
activitie e, a - costs. farms n h the cotton ffe CO what it
s; maj lasti They are which t e existin seed cte VI was a
howeve or ng. in a have ai o g will be d D- year
r, it will prod Org dilemma; been ni r linked reduce by 19 ago.
have a ucer anic despite devel n g organi d the ou The
serious com cott there oped g a c signific vir tb demand
impact plain on being over a n cotton antly.1 us re for
on ed significant many n i farms Given so ak locally
internat that uncertaint years d c has this, it far. als produce
ional its y around and e d experi is Chi o d
buyers’ main purchase with x a enced expect na’ hit cotton
decision buye orders in heavy p ir huge ed s th was also
- r the invest a y losses that, cot e negativ
making canc coming ments n s from in the ton co ely
. The eled years, . d e its forese pro tto affected
wide- abo they have in c organi eable duc n .
spread ut More g t c milk future, tio pri Accordi
no choice
lockdo 80 over, o o busine n ce ng to
but to
wn on perc it r r ss hig . China
keep
oversea ent seem g . since hly In Cotton
investing
s of s a T 2018. con Ma Associatio
in the
market its that ni h To cen rc n,
organic
s has orde there c e reduc tra h compared
cotton
resulte rs is c g e tes 20 with
farm.
d in the by also o i losses 20 February
Even one- in
a

Back to Contents • 51
2019, in far on hly i l n s in s : lly
Februar mer sub volatile. s i u n fro
y 2020, s sid In 2014, g f b er a ( m
the see y the l i a si s r 1 pla
consum m poli Chinese o b r d wi e ) yer
ption of una cy, governm w l m y th s in
domesti ffec whi ent e e e s in l d the
c cotton ted ch introduc r r y th i e glo
was and pro ed the f s s e k c bal
only the vid so-called t o t sp e l val
7.82 y es Target- h r m e e l i ue
million hav sti Price a u m ci y n cha
tons, e mul Subsidy n r s , fi i in;
reducin alre us Program e t a e t n (2)
g by ady to (TPSP) t c n d o g risi
0.2 star far in h e r d ti ng
million ted me e i e s m b d cos
tons or the rs v g e e e e t of
3.1 ne to l i i ll p m agri
percen w gro a n s t e a a cult
t, and 202 w t g t h ri f n ural
cotton 0/2 cot t e e o f d inp
import 1 ton e t r ir d. e uts;
s gro by r h c c d (3)
droppe win sec . e t o In t o uns
d to g uri o t th e w tab
1.88 sea ng I s t e d n le
million son the n u t o lo s sub
tons, . ir b h n n b t sidy
decrea Thi inc o s e t g- e r poli
sing by s is om r i o ru c e cy
0.1 to a e, d d g t n, a a due
million larg esp e i o h h u m to
tons or e eci r e v e o s , tigh
8.3 ext ally s e c w e ter
percen ent wh t , r e ev e stat
t.2 a en o n r er o s e
res the c m ti , f p bud
Howev ult ma b o e fi fa e get
er, so of rke e t n e r t c ;
far, the t is t t d m h i (4)
cotton cott hig e o g er e a lim
Back to Contents • 52
it i ; (in y ) .
e t par 1
Source: Xinjiang. Under
d h a ticu ht t p: / / ww w. yt pp .c o the TPSP, the
m .c n/ da t a / 2 01 9- 04 -
r n lar, 01/ 59 01 7. ht m l ; government
http://www.ce.cn/cysc/s
o t d foo p/info/201809/27/t2018
0927_30391110.shtml
o h d 2
Source:
m e ( sec http://www.xinhuanet.c
om/fashion/2020-
in 6 uri 04/21/c_1125878510.ht
m
n t ) ty
a r has
ti a t no
o d h w
n e e be
al co
st w c me
o a o a
r r m ser
a p iou
g b e s
e e t con
; t i cer
( w t n
5 e i aro
) e o un
u n n d
n the
c C f wo
e h r rld,
rt i o and
ai n m pri
n a ces
t o for
y a t ma
a n h ize
ss d e hav
o r e
ci t ris
a h c en
t e r dra
e o ma
d U p tic
w S s all
Back to Contents • 53
What are the biggest challenges
Q climate change poses to organic
cotton production in China?
growers); (2) rotating cotton and wheat/
soybean (common among large growers)
and non-tillage; and (3) recycling cotton
Warming temperature is the biggest residual. These measures all have the
challenge and threat. It leads to more potential of reducing emissions and carbon
frequent and complex pest and disease footprints, while improving soil fertility,
incidence, as well as faster decomposition attracting and nourishing natural enemies,
of soil organic matter and soil water and increasing cotton yield and carbon
depletion. Organic cotton farmers are likely sequestration.
to incur greater production costs as a result
because they have to (1) look for organic
alternatives to control pests and diseases,
Q Any other observations or
comments to add?

and (2) meet the increasing demand of the For the textile industry, in addition to
plants for nutrients and water. COVID-19, the reports of forced labor
in Xinjiang is a serious concern. Many
Q What are some of the main
adaptation measures you see being
leading international brands have already
announced that they will not source
used by organic farmers?
products produced in Xinjiang, and BCI
The measures mainly include: (1) growing has suspended activities with licensed
varieties that can better adapt to climate cotton farmers in the region. Recently,
change; (2) use of biological pest and the US has passed the Uyghur Forced
disease control technologies, for example Labor Prevention Act, which bans the
applying biopesticides, introducing natural import
enemies, using sex baits, and planting of any products produced in Xinjiang,
chrysanthemums; (3) applying formulated/ including clothes, unless approved by US
balanced/precise fertilization and irrigation Customs and Boarder Protection. Given
technologies; and (4) deep plow. the importance of Xinjiang in China’s cotton
production, all Chinese players along the

Q Are organic cotton farmers taking


cotton supply chain will undoubtedly be
affected. When I interviewed organic cotton
measures to mitigate climate producers, all of them were concerned
change? about the forced labor issues. They are
open to social audits and hope that a third
Yes. Such measures mainly include; (1) party can do something to help them. This
intercropping cotton with beans, peanuts is a very complex issue.
and other crops (common among small

Back to Contents
Photo (right): © CottonConnect, China • 51
East Asia REGIONAL PRODUCTION

China | 2018/19 organic cotton production 41,247

98 2
XINJIANG
Organic cotton fiber (MT)
19,464 GANSU
1,279 Organic certified land (ha) 7% 40,645 MT
Organic farmers Fiber (MT)
year-on-year growth
581 MT
710
Organic in-conversion land (ha)

17.2%
Share of global organic cotton produ

M, L 0.68%
Fiber lengths grown NA of China's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20 5-
Y
E
A
R
P
R
O
D
U
C
TI
O
N
T
R
E

1
N
Organic Fiber Production (MT)

5
0

4
3
0
2
2 1

M
T

10,000

2015 2016-17 2017-18 2018-19


-16

B
a
East Asia
China | 2018/19 organic cotton production

2018/19 was a year of growth for organic Back to Contents


those who found it not financially viable government cotton subsidy program that is
cotton in China. The total area of organic
to continue growing organic cotton to applicable to all cotton production. Some
cotton increased from 18,710 ha in
withdraw. Noticeably, it turns out that all producers had plans to further expand their
2017/18 to 19,162 ha in 2018/19, an
such producers are small farms - or organic production or integrate downward along
increase of 2.4 percent, and the total
large the supply chain to reap greater
output of organic cotton lint increased
farms with small plots of land dedicated to
from 38,586 MT to 41,247 MT, an
organic cotton growing as pilot projects.
increase of
A few of them completed their conversion
6.9 percent.
period but failed to sell their produce as
The growth was, to a large extent, driven by organic cotton to any downstream players
the need for organic feed from the organic of the organic cotton supply chain.
dairy industry. In particular, two large
Today, most organic cotton producers in
producers grew organic cotton to supply
China are large commercial farms. The
organic cotton seed to local dairy farms
farms have built up solid experience in
owned by a giant dairy company. The total
growing and marketing organic cotton to
area of their organic cotton farms exceeded
capitalize on the economies of scale of the
8,600 ha, accounting for 44.3 percent of
type of organic cotton production system
the total area of organic cotton farms in
that they have worked hard to establish
China.
over the years, involving: propagation of
Overall, in 2018/19, the Chinese organic non-GM cotton seed; contract farmers/
cotton sector became more concentrated. hired labor; access to credit extended
Geographically, 98.5 percent of the by financial institutions; and
organic cotton production took place in development of strong ties with brands,
Xinjiang. The total number of organic especially international brands.
cotton producers reduced from 16 in
Despite the competition from Indian
2017/18
counterparts, in 2018/19, the market
to 11 in 2018/19. All except one organic
was promising for most of the Chinese
cotton producer were certified to the China
commercial organic producers, and
National Organic Program. EU and/or
they were able to sell their produce at a
NOP certifications, which are typically wholly
favorable price differential, especially those
or partly certified in parallel for organic
who focused on the domestic market.
production, reduced to three farms in
One producer indicated that the
2018/19.
differential was between 10 and 18
This is largely due to the phase-out of percent higher than non-organic cotton -
external funding and support, leading on top of the
East Asia
value from the supply chain. For instance,
Huafeng invested in a quilt factory with a
capacity of 15,000 quilts per year and got
it organic certified.

ed labor in the Xinjiang region of China, where most of China’s organic cotton is grown, as well as reports of forced and child labor in other parts of the world that have occurred over the past several years.

on that has been submitted to us, analyzed, and cross-referenced in accordance with our . We include the data received from every producing country in the Organic Cotton Market Report to create a complete pictur
e on-the-ground program work regarding the production of organic cotton or any other fiber in any country, nor make recommendations for preferred sourcing locations.
n industry resource. Because China, and Xinjiang in particular, is a key producing region, leaving its reported production out of this report would result in the report not being truly representative of the global organic cott
practices in the textile value chain. This goes hand-in-hand with social responsibility expectations to ensure that the rights of all people, particularly workers, are respected.

• 53
East Asia
China | Initiative insights

We believe that more farmers will adopt climate-smart agriculture (CSA)


practices at scale if soil improvement practices are more intentionally
promoted within both BCI and organic systems. The methods should also be
tied to short term impacts (physical soil improvements visible to farmers) and
longer-term effects (soil organic matter). Based on a rate of adoption of 8-15
percent on two BCI farms in China, which have started transitioning
towards organic, our report shows that adopting composting and improving
windbreak tree systems can lead to a total
emission reduction of between 36,548 and 73,433 tons of carbon dioxide
equivalent over five years. A carbon insetting model as outlined in the
"Sustainable Cotton towards A Low Carbon Future" report by Kering, South
Pole and Rare offers a potential roadmap that can meet the needs of both farmers
and brands towards having a positive impact.

Veronica Yow
Senior Manager
Rare
Hear more from Veronica in our Insider Series interview.

Back to Contents
Photo (right): © Mariano Mejía Valenzuela for South Pole 54
EMENA,
Central &
Western Asia

Photo: © Cotonea

Back to Contents
• 55
EMENA, Central & Western Asia REGIONAL PRODUCTION

REGIONAL OVERVIEW 2018/19 organic cotton production

33,313

2 38 39S
GREECE TURKEY KYRGYZSTAN
1,577 Organic certified land (ha) 32%
Organic farmers Fiber (MT)
year-on-year growth 1,168 MT
22,
60,110 11,069 25.07% M, L

G
Organic cotton fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production Fiber lengths grown

22%
Estimated growth in fiber production

3.98%
of this region's cotton is organic

5-
Y
E
A
R
P
R
O
D
U
C
TI
O
N
TRENDS

2
5

1
2
Organic Fiber Production (MT)

T
1 A
JI
1 K
IS
5
T
A

20
N

12
,1
78
M
T

201 2016-17 2017-18 2018-19


5-
16

B
a
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
TEam insights
the struggle against COVID-19, workers
should abide by the protective regulations Q What are some of the main
adaptation and / or mitigation
in order not to be victims of the pandemic, measures you see being used by
and discrimination against those who have organic cotton farmers?
been infected with the disease should
Sustainable water management is the only
Atila Ertem be prevented. Several NGOs work on
solution for adaptation; however, training
Textile Exchange Ambassador, awareness campaigns and have started
for this is not provided by the Government
training programs. Mobile health teams
Turkey & Central Asia nor by buyers of the organic cotton.
distribute informational leaflets to make sure
Farmers are left alone with this problem
residents know how to keep safe and are
able to identify the symptoms of COVID-19. and only farmers who are financially well-off

W and an le foods
Q h
a
lon
g-
d
pr
(such as
rice,
t ter od cereals,
m uct lentils,
d im io and
n
o pac chickpea
tre
ts nd s) as a
y of s result of
o the in COVID-
u CO thi 19, the
VI s expectati
e D- re ons of
x 19 gi
cotton
on
p pan growers
?
e de have also
c mi Wit increase
t c h d. If the
wil the cotton
t l pric price
h be e does not
e on incr rise to
org ease the same
s ani s extent
h c seen (approxi
o cot in mately
r ton Turk 15-20
t far ey percent),
- me for organic
rs stap farmers
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
in bl gro from g isis ul particularly
this b m y
Turkey e win moveme a and tu at risk,
bears e e o
will to g nt n wo ra with living
at the a of u
choose he are restricti i rki l conditions
same s har
to plant lp, as. ons, c ng w that make
time s ves h
to
food as Alt or both
high u t. a
crops in tra hou c im k social
risks m Ma v
the vel gh o pro er distancing
for e ny e
coming res sea t ve s and
outbre d cer a
year. tri son t eco a frequent
aks of t tifi n
This cti al o no n handwashi
COVID- h cati y
could on agr n mi d ng a
19 a on c
potentia s icul th challenge.
among t bod g resi
lly lead du tur f ei The ILO
the t ies o
to a e al a lie r office in
tent h hav o nce
substant to wo r fa Turkey has
settle e e d
ial CO rk m and mi warned
ment si star e saf
decreas VI is li that, in
reside t ted e egu
e in the D- con r es
nts. u rem x ard
area 19 sid s ,
a ote a ing
under mi ere a w
No ti aud m
organic gh d r in ho
long- o its p
cotton. t ess e lig no
term n and l
pr ent ht r
effec w are e
With ev ial c of m
ts are il ext s
harves en and o CO all
antici l end t
t time t , p VI y
pated h ing o
getting wo agr i D- liv
from a the
closer, rk icul n 19? e
the v vali s
farmer ers tur g in
prese e dity h S
s are fro al te
nt e of a e
worrie m wo w nt
suspe a the r a
d tra rke i settl
nsion s org e s
about vel rs t emen
of e ani o o
having ing hav h ts
physi d c f n
enoug to e durin
cal b cer h a
h th be t g the
inspe y tifi o l
season e en h work
ction t cat w a
al co exe e seaso
s as h es. g
worke tto mp n,
it e o ri
rs c
Q
n- ted can Do r c are
availa ti r
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Residen hal part g a major examp c e s r m
ts are len of negative le, less a r v t p g e
informe ge the impact on rain n a a r a n
d about s sout the during c r i a n t
proper cli hern availabilit the i a i n c i i
hygiene ma belt y of water harves n t o a t z n
and te of for t v c u b i a g
handwa ch Medi agricultur period e h s l c t
shing an terr al means s m e a i s
techniq ge anea productio that t e i l o u
ues po n n. Cotton Turkey n n c n s
that ses Euro uses a is in i t i o a s t
can to pe, large the n t t s a
help or the amount of positio b i t p n i
prevent ga coun water n to t a a o e e n
transmi nic try both to produc h s t n c e a
ssion of cot is produce ea e i i t d b
the ton alre and to higher i n v p s i
virus. pr ady process. quality r s e r t l
od facin Besides of . s o a o i
W
h
uct
ion
g an
obse
water
scarcity,
Q
cotto
n.
o
w
Any
d
d
Q
u
r
e d
t
y
a in othe
rved farmers n e c e
t thi r
war are also a t o a o
s obse
ming affected w l i f l n
a reg rvati
tren by e i o t
r ion ons
d in occasiona l n n e m t
e ? or
temp l l g , n o h
com
eratu excessive s r e
t Turk men
ey is res, rains. It w h n e
h ts
and should o i o e f
e high add?
ly a fall not go r t w g w i
in unnoted T h e l i e
b vuln
erab preci that r h v e t l
i
pitat climate a e m e c h d
g le
to ion change i r o r t
g
- tre might also n e r , e i b
e clim
ate nds bear e d m y
s
that certain w a t . p
t cha
nge are advantage a r s h l s
havin s: for t e u e O e u
c . As
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
p t i eivi o a r t'
p t c ng p n t s
o o trai p i b
r n c nin o z i e
t o g r a m c
i g t or t t p l
n r t con u i r o
g o o sult n o o s
w n anc i n v e
f e y t s e r
a r p and y m t
r s r sus t e o
m o tai f o n t
e - j nab o t h
r e ilit r s s e
s t c y is u . s
h t oft o p o
w e s en r p L il
i onl g o e !
t g i ya
h e n phr
re n ase B
a
sp e T .
ec r u Thi
tiv a r s
e l k situ
co e ati
ns m y on
ult o is a
in d - hug
g e e
se l a cha
rvi r lle
ce o e nge
s. f n but
Co o ope
nt o t ns
ra r up
ct g r an
ed a e are
co n c a of
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Egypt | 2018/19 organic cotton production

219
18
Organic certified land (ha) 34.4%1
Fiber (MT)
Organic farmers year-on-year growth

287 0 0.12%
Organic cotton fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production

M, L, ELS 0.26%
Fiber lengths grown 21% of Egypt's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20
ced in Egypt should be organic; we believe that this is the only way to go forwards. We try to motivate more farmers, and we think that the farmers who try organic will see the benefits and continue. Next to this, we want
build integrity with the farmers. With this certificate, farmers can tell their story and show that when, for example, the GOTS certification is too difficult to get because of pollution, this is a problem beyond their own power

Organic cotton in Egypt is grown by


of its existing systems, such as switching
SEKEM and of Cottonforlife, the latter being
to renewable energy, zero waste projects,
a private sector initiative of FILMAR SpA
water-efficient irrigation management
to support the growth of long and extra-
systems, and producing its own organic
long staple organic cotton in Damietta in
seed and biodynamic preparations for
partnership with SEKEM.
cotton. SEKEM planted its own organic
SEKEM hopes to scale up organic cotton cotton seeds for the first time in 2020.
production in Egypt in the coming years, Read more about SEKEM’s work from Juni
while also focusing on the improvement van Kleef at Naturetex (a subsidiary under
SEKEM Holding), opposite. Juni van Kleef Merchandiser Naturetex

1
Please note that revisions have been made to Egypt’s historical organic cotton production figures after it was realized that our reporting cycle was one
year ahead. In summary: Egypt’s 2015/16 organic cotton fiber production was 459 MT; 2016/17 was 635 MT; 2017/18 was 438 MT, and 2018/19 was
287 MT.

Back to Contents 58
Photo (top right): Greening the desert - Wahat El-Bahareyya farm, Egypt. © SEKEM / Naturetex.
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Greece | 2018/19 organic cotton production

1,460
No data
Organic certified land (ha) 12%
Fiber (MT)
Organic farmers year-on-year growth

1,168 2,592 0.49%


Organic cotton fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production

M 0.39%
Fiber lengths grown 0% of Greece's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20

Certified organic cotton has been grown


Committee, organized by the Greek
in Greece for many years, but, at present,
Ministry, has started trying to include
it is not separated at the gin due to the
organic cotton production as part of the
quantities rarely reaching processing
Greek Cotton Trademark strategy.
minimums. It is therefore sold as
conventional cotton. 2018/19 saw a 12 percent growth in the
production of organic cotton in Greece.
In the 1990s, Thrakika Ekkokkistiria S.A.
A large area of land growing cotton is
cotton ginning mill was producing and
also in-conversion to organic - more than
processing organic cotton, but that
the current total land area - signaling the
ceased due to the high labor costs
potential for significant growth in certified
required by organic production methods.
organic cotton production in the coming
These days, the cotton grown organically
years. However, as it stands, it's likely
in Greece
that this production will also be sold as
is done so largely due to European conventional cotton.
subsidies providing an incentive to do
so; approximately 500€/ha. The Cotton

Photo (right): An Egedeniz farm in Turkey © Tessa Holding for Mungo 59


Back to Contents
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Kyrgyzstan | 2018/19 organic cotton production

12,852
220
Organic certified land (ha) 6%
Fiber (MT)
Organic farmers year-on-year growth

23,637 103 9.86%


Organic cotton fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production

M
Fiber lengths grown 1% Unknown% 1
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20 of Kyrgyzstan's cotton is organic

The increase in organic cotton production


attracted by the fertility of the land and the
that we have observed from Kyrgyzstan in
affordability of labor in Kyrgyzstan. Most
recent years continued in 2018/19, with
of this production is exported to Turkey to
total production of organic cotton fiber
be processed after ginning, though the
reaching 23,367 MT. All of Kyrgyzstan’s
organic and Fairtrade cotton produced by
organic cotton production takes place in
ACSC Bio Farmer - the initial pioneer of
the regions of Osh and Jalal-Abad.
organic cotton in Kyrgyzstan and previously
This growth trend is fueled largely by supported by HELVETAS - goes mainly to
projects implemented by Turkish mills in Eastern Europe.
mills,

1
This data point is derived from the difference between Textile Exchange's reported organic cotton production and ICAC's country total for cotton
production. In the case of Kyrgyzstan, there is a significant discrepancy between the two, with ICAC estimating 11,535 MT fiber, while organic
cotton is estimated at 23,637 MT. We are trying our best to understand more about this discrepancy. In summary, Textile Exchange's methodology
involves collecting and triangulating data from farms and traders, certification bodies, and government officials. You can learn more about Textile
Exchange’s data collection methodology here, and about the sources of ICAC’s cotton statistics here.

Photo (right): Farmers of the organic and Fairtrade cooperative, ACSC Bio
60
Back to Contents Farmer, during harvest © Cotonea.
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Tajikistan | 2018/19 organic cotton production

8,114
955
Organic certified land (ha) 35%
Fiber (MT)
Organic farmers year-on-year growth

12,178 2,226 5.08%


Organic cotton fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production

M 11.93
s (seed, organic fertilizers, and organic pest controls) to farmers. The cooperative decided to use its profit gained in 2019 and%its Fairtrade Premium to support farmers [during this crisis]. Protection masks, disinfectants, and
ertilizers. Fiber lengths grown 23 % of Tajikistan's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20

Tajikistan experienced a significant


However, a slowdown in production is
35 percent growth in organic cotton
anticipated in the coming years due to
fiber production in 2018/19.
unfavorable cotton prices and the impacts
As is the case in Kyrgyzstan, much of of the recent COVID-19 crisis on demand.
this growth is a result of increased
The longstanding organic and fairtrade
demand from Turkish mills, meaning
cooperative, Bio-Kishovarz, remains very
much of it is exported to Turkey. Again,
active and is working hard to support
the primary attraction from these Turkish
farmers during the COVID-19 crisis, and
mills is the availability of fertile lands and Sherzod Abdurakhmanov
to support women-led initiatives. Read
affordable labor in Central Asia. Advisor
more about these on the right from
Bio-Kishovarz Cooperative
Sherzod Abdurakhmanov of the Bio-
Kishovarz Cooperative.

Back to Contents Photo (top right): Inspection day for farmers of the Bio-Kishovarz Cooperative in
61
Tajikistan © Bio-Kishovarz Cooperative
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Turkey | 2018/19 organic cotton production

10,668
384 Organic certified land (ha) 77%1
Organic farmers Fiber (MT)
year-on-year growth

22,839 6,148 9.52%


Organic cotton fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production

M, L 2.34%
Fiber lengths grown 36% of Turkey's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20

2018/19 was a record year for organic


similar increases in land area and yield.
cotton in Turkey, with total fiber production
At the same time, however, consumption
rising 77 percent1 to reach 22,839 MT;
showed a decrease due to the economic
the highest level seen since 1991 when
difficulties faced by the textile and fabric
organic cotton production first started in industry. Consequently, Turkey’s cotton
the country. The majority of this growth is
imports decreased considerably
in EU/ NOP certified production, rather than
TR certified production. Now, however, with cotton prices showing
slow growth and even a small decline,
The story is quite different for conventional
combined with the added impacts of the
cotton production in Turkey. Between 2015
COVID-19 crisis, a decrease in Turkey’s
and 2018, Turkey saw a steady rise in
total cotton production is expected in the
overall cotton production (738; 756; 882;
coming years, which may also be reflected
and 977 thousand MT, respectively) and
in the production of organic cotton.
1
Please note: this takes into account a revision made to Turkey's 2017/18 production as reported in our 2019 Organic Cotton Market Report, which
was revised from 11,652 to 12,894 as a result of a retrospective correction submitted by a data provider.

Photo (right): An Egedeniz contracted farmer in Turkey during a visit by South


Back to Contents African textile company, Mungo © Tessa Holding for Mungo
62
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Turkey | Spotlight on SANKO

Join us for the 3rd Regional OCRT for Turkey, Central Asia & Egypt

udes environmental (regenerative) highest and the cotton quality amongoutcomes, social and cultural, as well the finest. Textile mills, manufacturers,as economic outcomes for farmers to brands, and retailers the world

The regenerative and sustainable development opportunities associated with organic cotton in Turkey are significant. Textile Exchange and SANKO would welcome hearing
Join us for our virtual Organic Cotton Round Table “in Turkey.” While we have had to postpone our in-person meeting and farm visits
this year, we are hoping to bring you something just as engaging and very special. More detail on the Turkish and other Regional Organic Cotton Round Tables is coming soo
Contact OCRT@ TextileExchange.org to register your interest.

Transparency is key to trust

other internal control systems,


demonstrated
alongside during
staff the
training,
globaltopandemic
ensure all employees are competent contributors to the integrity of SANKO systems.
has been developing a traceability system that
- when will link
SANKO from the
ensured the final product
ongoing back to the
employment cotton
status field.
of all The team
workers has also
and turned tobeen reviewingand
governments logistics,
industrywarehousing, and
to better understand how they could help with emergency textiles su
gowns, personal protective equipment, and uniforms.

Loyalty and commitment are important to SANKO’s owners with the most recent example of what the company stands for

Back to Contents Photo: ©SANKO • 63


EMENA, Central & Western Asia
Uzbekistan | New initiative

A new GIZ project is underway in Uzbekistan supporting the production of organic cotton.
The first year of certification was 2019/20, which falls under our next reporting cycle, so
production data is not counted in this report. Learn more about the project from GIZ below.


Given its relevance as well as its contributions to the achievement of several
SDGs (1, 2, 5, 8, 9, 12, and 17), fostering the Uzbek cotton sector and assisting
with the ongoing reforms by the Uzbek government has become a major concern
for the international community – and thus for GIZ. The GIZ project “Sustainability
and Value Added in the Cotton Industry in Uzbekistan” is part of the global
program “Sustainability and Value Added in Agricultural Supply Chains,” which
is a multidimensional program that targets sustainable progress in the social, textile sector, which focused on occupational health and safety measures,
ecological, and economic aspects of different crop industries worldwide. The employer protection and social conduct at the workplace. The outcomes
component in Uzbekistan started in September 2019 and focuses on the serve as the basis for the training of employers and workers on corporate
cotton and textile industry only. It comprises all steps of the value chain, which social responsibility, occupational health and safety, and on workers’ rights.
fall into three interrelated areas of action.
3. Finally, linking the Uzbek cotton and textile sector to the international
1. The primary cotton production – GIZ commissions agricultural experts to markets - here, traceability instruments, and most of all, sustainability
inform and train cluster managers and farmers on sustainable farming standards (e.g., BCI, organic), play a big role as they require high ecological
practices such as organic cotton or BCI cotton and to act as farm and social conditions. In return, they increase the credibility of the cotton
advisers. Farmers hence get assistance in the application of improved farm and textile value chain with respect to responsible sourcing. Certifications
management practices and business models as well as in the introduction thus facilitate the market access and export promotion to new markets,
of innovative technologies. Moreover, GIZ cooperates with international increasing the range of new and conscientious clients. Within this frame,
organizations, NGOs, and local decision-makers to promote dialogue about GIZ has furthermore planned an incubator and accelerator program for
workers’ rights, social sustainability and the benefits of worker unions. local entrepreneurs with a focus on women entrepreneurs. Now, dialogue,
exchange, and cooperation within the Uzbek fashion community is
2. The improvement of local processing in textile clusters – where creation of
strengthened, which can have a positive impact on the overall perception
sustainable jobs and increased income in the processing industry stand in
and self-confidence of the sector.
the focus. A shift towards better paid and more qualified jobs is decisive for
the economic, regional and demographic development. Simultaneously, the
negative consequences of mechanization are outbalanced by the creation of
Florian Nitzinger
new jobs. The inclusion of more processing steps furthermore creates new
income opportunities and employment prospects within the cotton economy. Project Manager
Finally, support in market access underlines the sustainability of the created GIZ
workplaces and promotes a shift towards markets that request sustainable
value chains as well as responsible sourcing and production conditions.
Ba nts
GIZ has recently conducted a survey on the training needs assessment of ck Photo
(top
the to right)
C :
on Mem
bers
te of the
EMENA, Central & Western Asia
T
T
G
Cl
us
te
r,
U
zb
ek
ist
an
©
G
IZ
South & Southeast
Asia

Photo: © Joerg Boethling for bioRe Foundation

Back to Contents
• 65
South & Southeast Asia REGIONAL PRODUCTION

REGIONAL OVERVIEW 2018/19 organic cotton production

100
PAKISTAN MYANMAR

303,698

1
170,829
123,072 40,892
Organic certified land (ha) 44% In-
Organic Conversion
Organic cottonfarmers
fiber (MT)1 Organic in-conversion land (ha) Fiber (MT) 5
year-on-year growth
1
.
3
2
%
S

S, M, L, ELS
Fiber lengths grown 3 1
%
Estimated .
7
1
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o
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5-
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99
140,00 E INDIA
0 A
R
120,00
P
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R 122,668

1
MT
T
Organic Fiber Production (MT)

100,00 O
0 D India Pakistan H
U A
Thailand
80,000 C I
T L
60,000
I A
40,000 O N
N D
T
R
E 6
N
D M
S T
1

20,000

0
2014-15
20 2015-16 1
Please note that organic cotton in
15 Thailand is produced under the
Participatory Guarantee System
- 2018-19 (PGS), rather than third-party
16 certification.

B
a
South & Southeast Asia
TEam insights
result in changes to consumer behavior
and to decisions made by brands and Q Any other observations or comments
to add?
retailers to support their supplier
chains. Innovative business models have the
potential to resolve all issues, including
Amish Gosai
South Asia Manager,
Q What are the biggest challenges
climate change poses to organic
those brought about by COVID-19. They
should ensure:
cotton production in South Asia?
Textile Exchange • direct business relations with
South Asia is home to some of the most farmers/ farm groups;
climate change-vulnerable countries in the
world. • direct payment with transparency;

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South & Southeast Asia
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South & Southeast Asia
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South & Southeast Asia
India | 2018/19 organic cotton production

302,863 land that they allocate to cotton from an


average of 54 percent to 70 percent. Every
terms of organic lint cotton
production, experiencing a growth of
166,767 Organic certified land (ha) 43% state showed an increase in production of 42 percent to reach 34,990 MT of
Organic farmers Fiber (MT)
organic lint cotton, with the exception of organic fiber
year-on-year growth
Karnataka, which had greater crop rotation production in 2018/19, followed by Gujarat
activity. (28,556 MT), Maharashtra (27,944 MT),
Madhya Pradesh (23,675 MT); Rajasthan
122,668 23,251 51.15% Volumes of organic cotton increased 43 (6,205 MT); Telangana (619 MT); Tamil
Organic cotton fiber (MT)Organic in-conversion land (ha) Share of global organic cotton production
percent in 2018/19 compared to the Nadu (391 MT) and Haryana (287 MT).
previous year. Over the next three years,
it is estimated that production will This trend is reflected in the wider organic
increase a further 12-24 percent. movement in India too, with increases
seen in other organic crops. Overall, there
S, M, L, ELS 2.29% Organic cotton was grown on a total of was 3.56 million ha of land under organic
Fiber lengths grown % 3
of India's cotton is organic 211,863 ha in India in 2018/19. Every production in India; 1,398,221 ha of which
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20 state, except for Karnataka, showed an was cultivated and 1,490,418 ha of which
increase in production, with increases was wild harvest area. This was carried
ranging from 25-124 percent. Odisha out by 3,488 ICS and 2,371 Individual
continued its significant leadership in producers, involving a total of 1.5 million
Total cotton production in India decreased Organic farming in India is certified under farmers.
4.8 percent in 2018/19, despite the Indian the National Programme for Organic
government increasing the minimum Production (NPOP). In 2018/19, more
support price (MSP) by 15 cents per kg than 166,767 farmers were part of Internal
of seed cotton. The 2018/19 MSP was Control Systems (ICS)2 that had both
51.50 INR/kg; 28 percent higher than in NPOP and NOP certification. In 2018/19,
2017/18. In 2019/20 and 2020/21, it will 302,863 ha of land was certified organic,
increase further, to 52.55 and 55.15 INR/ with approximately 211,863 ha (70
kg, respectively.1 All prices mentioned here percent) dedicated to organic cotton.
are for medium staple cotton variety. Between 2014/15 and 2018/19, farmers
have changed the proportion of organic

1
Source: https://farmer.gov.in/mspstatements.aspx
2
“An Internal Control System is the part of a documented quality assurance system that allows an external certification body to delegate the periodical
inspection of individual group members to an identified body or unit within the certified operator. This means that the third- party certification bodies
only have to inspect the well-functioning of the system, as well as to perform a few spot-check re-inspections of individual smallholders.”
[IFOAM - Organics International].

Back to Contents
Photo (right): Preparation of organic pesticide © Dinesh Khanna for Laudes Foundation • 68
South & Southeast Asia INDIA PRODUCTION BY STATE
India | Program insights

1
HARYANA

287 MT MADHYA

5 19
RAJASTHAN PRADESH

S9
6,205 MT 23,675 MT

23
GUJARAT

28,556 MT

23
MAHARASHTR

29
ODISHA
A

27,944 MT 34,990 MT

1
TELANGANA

1
TAMIL
NADU
619 MT

391 MT
Back to Contents • 69
South & Southeast Asia
India | Program insights | COVID-19 responses

In the short-term, activities such as land preparation are being delayed and, due
to social distancing requirements, farmers are being forced to use tractors for
land preparation, which comes at an additional cost.

Almost all farmers depend on other, non-farm income streams to cope with
their day to day expenses (e.g. through milk/input sales or through women-led
self-help group activities), but these have come to a standstill.

Suminter has distributed facemasks, soaps, and hygiene products to all the
villages where we work. We have also distributed essential ration items worth
Rs700/ to each farmer in need. Our field staff is engaged in giving proper
training to villages on social distancing and personal hygiene. A few women
self-help groups working in our project area are involved in making reusable
Action for Social Advancement (ASA), in partnership with Laudes
face masks.
Foundation, is working on expansion of organic cotton in the tribal region of
In the longer term, farmers are concerned about prices and demand. Most of Madhya Pradesh with a key emphasis on the value chain integration of producers
them are in a dilemma about how cotton as a product is going to perform in through farmer producer collectives.
the coming harvest season.
It is difficult to predict the future of funding possibilities right now. The
need is to think innovatively and quickly. We are seeing farmers distress selling
Ishwar Ilanchezian because of the lack of demand, which market assessments indicate won’t
Director - Textile Division normalize until November 2020. We quickly realized
Suminter India Organics Pvt. Ltd. that this challenge is an opportunity to strengthen farmer institutions to help
their own community. The best way to help the farmers is material
Hear more from Ishwar in our Insider Series interview.
procurement at a comparable price to last year.

Ashis Mondal
Director
Action for Social Advancement (ASA)
Hear more from Ashis in our Insider Series interview.

Back to Contents Photo (right): © Dinesh Khanna for Laudes Foundation • 70


m groups in India.
engagement, market linkages, and support to Indian organic cotton producing farm groups through the OCA Farmer Engagement and Development (FED) Programme and Textile Exchange reports and activities. Results

South & Southeast Asia


g better terms of trade for producers while creating visibility on the impact and integrity of the organic fiber for buyers.
tton Round Table.
Indiainformation
improved market | Program insights | Climate impacts & actions
and linkages.

The biggest threat related to climate change and organic farming is the
timing of the sowing season. Historically, cotton is sown in early June but,
due to climate change, monsoon season has become more unpredictable,
making it harder for farmers to plan their production cycles. There has been
an increase in natural disaster conditions, and most organic cotton is rainfed.
When your partner is nature, your entire
livelihood is dependent on managing your crops in conjunction with the
weather; the climate situation is getting more concerning to our RESET farmers
and other farmers worldwide.

Marci Zaroff
Founder/CEO
ECOfashion Corp/MetaWear
Hear more from Marci in our Insider Series interview.

bioRe® organic cotton is CO2 neutral. The compensation is achieved through


the construction and operation of biogas facilities and efficient stoves in the
bioRe® growing regions of bioRe® India Ltd. and bioRe® Tanzania Ltd. The
special feature of this model is the approach of compensation within the own
supply chain, thus creating added value for the organic farmers instead of
investing in anonymous climate projects somewhere in the world.

Christa Suter
CEO
bioRe® Foundation
Hear more from Christa in our Insider Series interview.

Back to Contents Photos: (left) © RESET and (right) © Joerg Boethling for bioRe® Foundation • 71
South & Southeast Asia
India | Program insights | Climate impacts & actions

For next year, along with improving organic practices, we will focus on
strengthening farmer resilience to cope with shocks such as COVID and climate
change. We will work on building transformative partnerships with stakeholders.
To help farmers face climate change-related challenges, we will promote bio-
dynamic (BD) farming practices, including the use of more acceptable and
Welspun, in collaboration with MIT media lab - Open Ag, is working on a
sustainable BD products. We will work on select biofortified crops for crop
project to grow specialty cotton (long to extra-long staple) sustainably in the
nutrition. We will supplement our training with risk-mitigation plans to boost
semi-arid region of Kutch District in Gujarat, India. This area is better known for
biodiversity, support the environment, and build more resilient cotton farming.
growing medium staple cotton in open fields. This collaboration was undertaken
We will roll out more comprehensive interventions to include health, hygiene,
to support farmers by developing appropriate cotton production technologies
and enterprise development for holistic farming community development.
that factor in current challenges related to climate change. Today, resources like
healthy soil, water, and farm biodiversity have become scarce. This scarcity
makes it challenging for farmers to sustain their livelihood as they can easily
Ravindra Narayanaswamy Senior become trapped in vicious cycles of debt caused by unpredicted rains
Director- Farm Operations (drought/floods), pest problems, and the availability of genuine quality inputs.
CottonConnect The technology that we are using is Hydroponic. Initially, we started it in a reefer
Hear more from Ravindra in our Insider Series interview. container using a completely controlled environment and providing artificial
Read CottonConnect's new research on the impact of light
COVID-19 on farming communities. to grow cotton. Now we have taken it to a bigger scale and are using natural
light. Natural light is available in abundance and can help to bring down the cost
of electricity in a greenhouse, which provides a controlled environment using a
fan pad system. The temperature inside the facility is maintained between 25 and
38° C.

Mahesh Ramakrishnan
Senior Vice President - Sustainable
Cotton Welspun Group
Hear more from Mahesh in our Insider Series interview.

Back to Contents Photos: (left) © CottonConnect and (right) © Welspun Group • 72


South & Southeast Asia
India | Program insights | Non-GM seed
As seed forms the starting point of agricultural value chains, the growth of the
organic cotton sector depends on the availability of quality organic cottonseed.
We have now launched the second phase of our non-GM seed hybridization In India, OCA aims to boost organic cottonseed systems
project in India. Fairtrade is working in partnership with Pratibha Syntex, and by investing in Seeding the Green Future: the country’s leading organic cotton
the project is funded by TRAID. The objective is to develop new non-GM breeding program, led by FiBL in close partnership with farm groups and
hybrids that have the cotton fiber parameters that the fashion and textile State Universities. The program is developing a new portfolio of improved
industry needs. The resulting seeds will be commercially produced and made cotton cultivars well-suited for organic farming conditions, while scaling up
available to farmers. The breeding program has already produced some cultivar testing and seed multiplication across different Indian states. More
strong results following the initial pilot phase, when around 1,500 cotton recently, OCA also facilitated the development of guidelines for non-GM
farmers were given access to 9,200 organic seed packets produced by their cottonseed production to help seed producers prevent GMO presence at the
own co-operative. The very start of the organic cotton supply chain - the production of seeds
second phase of the project will see the development of new parent lines and we marketed to organic cotton farm groups.
will share learnings more widely across the sector. Yet, the limited availability and quality of organic cottonseed is not an issue
unique to India alone. It is a global issue. Therefore, OCA has started
planning for the expansion of our Seed, Integrity and Community Investment
Subindu Garkhel
(SICI) Programme to other key producing countries.
Senior Cotton and Textiles Lead
Through our Global Seed Task Force we are turning the input of local seed
Fairtrade
experts and learnings from our Indian program into a strategic plan that can
Hear more from Subindu in our Insider Series interview.
effectively improve the genetic diversity and availability of organic
cottonseed for farmers by using levers such as capacity
building, advocacy and communications at a local and global level; while
leveraging the many existing networks and initiatives already present. In this
way, we hope to continue planting the seeds for meaningful change across the
globe.

Mathilde Tournebize
Programme Officer
Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA)
Hear more from OCA in our Insider Series interview with Bart
Vollaard, Executive Director.

Back to Contents Photo (left): © Fairtrade International • 73


South & Southeast Asia
Pakistan | 2018/19 organic cotton production

781
Organic certified land (ha) New
4,003 Fiber (MT)
Organic farmers year-on-year growth

398 17,632 0.17%


Organic cotton fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production

M 0.02%
Fiber lengths grown 0% of Pakistan's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20

poor linkages between seed companies, local seed dealers, and programme farmers, which has limited access to quality, GMO free cotton seed. Overall, this may impact the quantity and quality of the next harvest. Similarly
2018/19 saw Pakistan’s first harvest of
These organizations are also working with
certified organic cotton, with production
local textile players to improve supply chain
totaling 398 MT fiber grown on 781 ha
mechanisms and motivate them to support
of land.
the scaling up of organic cotton cultivation
This production is a result of the partnership in Balochistan.
between WWF Pakistan, Laudes
Learn more about this project from
Foundation, Directorate of Agriculture
Hafiz Muhammad Bakhsh of WWF
Extension - Balochistan, and CABI, which
Pakistan (opposite) and in our Insider
is promoting organic cotton in selected
Series. Hafiz Muhammad Bakhsh Manager Organic Cotton Project WWF Pakistan
areas of Balochistan.

Back to Contents
Photo (top right): © WWF Pakistan 74
South & Southeast Asia
Thailand | 2018/19 organic cotton production

46* 46*
Organic farmers Organic certified land (ha) 9%
*all producing under PGS1 *all farmed under PGS1 Fiber (MT)
year-on-year growth

6* 0 0.003%
Organic Cotton Fiber (MT) Organic in-conversion land
Share
(ha) of global organic cotton production
*all produced under PGS1

S 0.51%
Fiber lengths grown 18% of Thailand's cotton is organic
Estimated growth in fiber production 2019/20

Thailand in late March 2020 and, as things seems to get better, the restrictions are gradually being relaxed. Now [as of June 2020], the situation inside the country is almost back to normal. There appears to be very little im
cantly. It is hard to see when or whether the sale will pick up again.

Thailand’s organic cotton is grown along


This mirrors the drop in the number of
the banks of the Mekong river in Rim
farmers (from 55 to 46) and land area (from
Khong by farmers of the Green Net
96 to 46 ha). Nevertheless, the project
Cooperative. The production uses the
provides an additional income for these 46
Participatory Guarantee System (PGS),1
traditional fishing families.
rather than
third-party certification. The cooperative reports a minimal impact
of COVID-19 on this fishing community,
Please note that the figure for 2017/18
so far. Hear more on the right from Vitoon
production has been adjusted from 2 Vitoon Panyakul
Panyakul of Green Net Cooperative.
to 7 MT after an error was realized in Director
the reporting system. Compared to this Green Net Cooperative
revised 2017/18 figure of 7 MT, production
declined slightly in 2018/19, totaling 6 MT.

1
Participatory Guarantee Systems (PGS) are an alternative to third-party certification. As per IFOAM - Organic International’s definition, PGS are
locally focused quality assurance systems that certify producers based on the active participation of stakeholders and are built on a foundation of trust,
social networks, and knowledge exchange. IFOAM - Organics International has a list of recognized PGS programs.

75
Back to Contents
Photo (top right): © Green Net Cooperative, Thailand
South & Southeast Asia
Myanmar | In-conversion

As announced in last year’s report, a new


The Source Trace app is being used to
organic cotton project is underway in
record real-time information on key project
Myanmar - a partnership between
details.
Welspun India Ltd. and Sense Organics
Import & Trading GmbH, implemented with In April 2019, one non-GM seed variety
Pure Sense Organics Myanmar Ltd. was registered with the Ministry of
Agriculture and Irrigation. A further three
In 2018/19, the program had 8 ha in-
varieties were being trialed on government
conversion to organic, with 13 farmers
farms and were due to undergo certification
engaged in this production in the Mandalay
in 2019/20.
region of Myanmar. The program reports
that this is expected to grow to 65 ha
and 75 farmers by 2019/20, with the
production area being part of a larger 300
ha organic system, rotating cotton with
crops such as black gram, green gram,
sesame, groundnut, pigeon pea, and
onion.

Back to Contents 76
Photo (right): © Pure Sense Organics Myanmar Ltd.
Standards &
Certification

Back to Contents • 77
Standards & certification
OCS & GOTS certified facilities 2019 1

GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE


ORGANIC CONTENT TOP 10 COUNTRIES USING OCS & GOTS
STANDARD (GOTS)
STANDARD (OCS)
In 2019, GOTS had 7,765 certified units across 70 countries, while OCS had 6,181 units across 54 countries.
7,765
(2019) This map shows the top 10 countries for each and their respective number of certified units.

6,181
(2019)
5,760 Other Countries Italy Germany Turkey Bangladesh China South Korea
(2018)
4,642 5,024
GOTS: 1,043 • OCS: 532 444 565 858 • 1,262 1,194 • 1,139 448 • 880 243
4,179 2
(2016) (2017) (2018)
3,814 3,661 3,643
(2015) 3,126 (2016) (2017)
(2015)

7,765 (🡑 35 %) 6,181 (🡑 48 %)
Certified Facilities 2019
Certified Facilities 2019

1 India : 🡑22% 1 India : 🡑37%


2 Bangladesh : 🡑73% 2 Turkey : 🡑123%
3 Turkey :🡑65% 3 Bangladesh :
🡑10%
4 Germany : 🡑13% 4 China : 🡑23%
5 China : 🡑49% 5 South Korea :
🡑7%
6 Italy : 🡑31% 6 Pakistan : 🡑75%
7 Portugal : 🡑40% 7 Japan : 🡑43%
8 Pakistan : 🡑16% 8 Portugal : 🡑138% USA Spa Portug Pakista India Hong Japan • GO
9 USA : 🡑16% 9 in al n Kong TS
Hong Kong :
147 83 301 • 276 • 2,411 • 104 78 • • OC
1
Please note that the figures detailed on this page reflect the number of facilities certified to produce GOTS/OCS products in 2019, which may differ from the number that actually produced GOTS/OCS certified products that year.

Back to Contents • 78
Standards & certification
2
Please note that this number has been revised since the 2019 Organic Cotton Market Report, which stated 4,179 OCS certified facilities in 2018, due to the finalization of reported numbers by some certification bodies.

Back to Contents • 79
Organic Content Standard

each buyer and seller of OCS certified • Organic wool inputs must be non- Content Claim Standard 3.0
product. The ending result is a consumer- mulesed (according to the non-
facing logo and claim about the organically mulesed definition of the Responsible The Organic Content Standard (OCS) uses
grown content. Wool Standard) or from a farm with the chain of custody requirements of the
ceased- mulesing status. Content Claim Standard (CCS). The CCS
The OCS also allows labeling of verified ensures a robust chain of custody system
in-conversion or in-conversion organically • Certified organizations must now from the source to the final product.
The Organic Content Standard (OCS) is grown material in order to provide those maintain technical specifications for all
an international, voluntary standard that farmers that are required to wait two OCS materials. Textile Exchange recently launched a
provides chain of custody verification for to three years when switching from • Number of OCS certified facilities revision of the CCS, for which the
materials originating on a farm certified to conventionally grown crops with an increases 48 percent in 2019. open feedback period has just
recognized national organic standards. The incentive to do so. concluded.
• 2019 saw record growth for Organic You can find a summary of the feedback
standard is used to verify organically grown
Launch of Organic Content Standard 3.0 Content Standard (OCS) certified received here.
raw materials from the farm to the final
facilities. The total number of facilities
product.
Following a revision period for the OCS grew 48 percent, from 4,179 in We are now requesting stakeholder
Originally released in 2013, the goal of 2.0 in 2019, Textile Exchange launched 2018 to 6,181 in 2019. In terms of participation in the CCS International
the OCS is to increase organic OCS 3.0 on March 1, 2020. All audits actual number of facilities, the largest Working Group (IWG) to assist in the
agriculture production. The OCS aims to conducted after February 28, 2021, shall contributors to the global growth were development of the CCS 3.0. If you are
deliver this goal through three key be conducted using OCS 3.0. Turkey (+697 facilities), India (+374), interested in joining the IWG, please read
objectives: and China (+167). See previous page this quick guide and email Standards@
The updates to the standard include: on certified facilities for further details. TextileExchange.org.
1. Provide the industry with a tool to verify
the organically grown content of the • The former OCS Implementation Manual
products they purchase. is now divided into two documents.
The OCS User Manual provides
2. Provide companies with a trusted tool to The Organic Content Standard was our first standard and the basis of
interpretation and guidance for users of
communicate organically grown content the standard while the OCS Certification establishing our Chain of Custody, which is the backbone for all of our
claims to the industry. Procedures details requirements standards. I am proud of the evolution of the OCS through the revision process.
3. Provide organic farmers with broad certification bodies must follow. It remains a key tool for supporting and stabilizing organic fibers.
access to the global organic market for • More robust traceability between the
their products. farm and first processor.
The OCS requires certification of the entire • GMO testing for organic cotton must La Rhea Pepper
supply chain starting at the first processor occur in accordance with Textile Managing Director
of organically grown material through to Exchange’s OCS-103 GMO Screening Textile Exchange
the final business-to-business seller. It also of Organic Cotton.
requires transaction certificates between
Global Organic Textile Standard

The Global Organic


GOTS registers highest growth rate in
Textile Standard
2019 GOTS recognizes the challenges companies are currently facing [due to the
(GOTS) is a voluntary
global standard for the covid-19 pandemic] when it comes to keeping operations running while
In 2019, the number of GOTS certified
entire post-harvest facilities globally grew by 35 percent, from maintaining certification without on-site in-person audits. GOTS developed
processing (including 5,760 to 7,765 located in 70 countries. measurements accordingly. Recertification dates have been extended, and
spinning, knitting, This growth was seen in both production virtual audits are now allowed under certain
weaving, dyeing, and manufacturing) of and consuming regions. The highest circumstances. In the long term, consumers will have had time to reflect on the
apparel and home textiles made with increases in the number of certified facilities harmful effects of “Fast fashion” on our planet. They are seeing clear water and
certified organic fiber (such as organic were reported from Bangladesh (+505), less smog, and hopefully will consider more ecological choices going forward.
cotton and organic wool), and includes India (+438), and Turkey (+339). See map
both environmental and social criteria. Key on certified facilities page for further details In the US, short term, the domestic manufacturers are working in high gear,
provisions include a ban on the use of of the ten countries with the most GOTS- manufacturing masks, gowns etc. to meet the tremendous need for the medical
genetically modified organisms (GMOs), certified facilities in 2019. In total, more community. Some GOTS-certified companies have reported that state and
highly hazardous chemicals (such as azo than 3 million workers working in GOTS- federal contracts were granted to them because of their proven traceability
dyes and formaldehyde), and child labor, certified facilities were reported in 2019 by
systems.
while requiring strong social compliance the 17 accredited independent Certification
management systems and strict Bodies.
wastewater treatment practices. GOTS was
developed by the international standard GOTS 6.0 released
setters, including Organic Trade Association
GOTS version 6.0 was released in March Lori Wyman
(USA), Japan Organic Cotton Association,
2020. Key requirements such as certified Representative for North America
International Association Natural Textile
organic fiber content, the ban on toxic and Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
Industry (Germany), and Soil Association
harmful chemicals, conventional cotton,
(UK) to define globally recognized
and virgin polyester have been maintained.
requirements that ensure the organic status
The relaxation for additional regenerated
of textiles, from field to finished product.
fibers and virgin polyester has been
withdrawn. Social compliance management
has been strengthened to include OECD
Guidelines and a living wage gap. Find out
more about the changes in GOTS V.6.0.
Methodology &
Disclaimer

Back to Contents • 82
2020 methodology & disclaimer

Textile Exchange is in the unique position of being


slightly from country to country but common to all is remaining residues left in the soil from past volume and 68 percent cotton producing countries. In
the only organization currently reporting on the
the avoidance of the use of toxic and persistent conventional practices. Land undergoing the first, all, 34 of the 50 cotton producing countries have
global organic cotton supply and trends on an
synthetic agrichemicals (pesticides and fertilizers) and second, and third year of this conversion period is been identified as potentially relevant for organic
annual basis. Our priority is to ensure the accuracy
genetically modified seeds. referred to as Year 1 (Y1), Year 2 (Y2), and Year 3 cotton production and covered by an independently
and quality of our data, management systems, and
(Y3) In-Conversion Land, respectively. verified systematic data process. This identification
reporting. In 2018, with the
Seed cotton: Seed cotton is the raw cotton, including process has been based on data collected, publicly
sponsorship of C&A Foundation, Textile Exchange
fiber and seeds (i.e., pre-ginning cotton). Yield: Yield refers to the amount of cotton produced available records, interviews and correspondence
achieved independent third-party verification
(in kilograms) per hectare (ha) of land farmed. Yield is with various stakeholders.
on its organic cotton data processes to the Global
Reporting Initiative (GRI) standard and Cotton Fiber/Lint: Cotton fiber/lint is cotton that typically measured at two levels: Seed Cotton Yield
Accountability Principles for the Organic Cotton has gone through the ginning process to remove (i.e., pre-ginning) and Cotton Fiber Yield (i.e., post- Standards (Cultivation): Textile Exchange applies a
Market Report (OCMR). Textile Exchange has since seeds, leaves, and casings (i.e., post-ginning). ginning). complete list of all standards accepted in accordance
adhered to the same verified process for its organic with “IFOAM Family of Standards.” A systematic
cotton data collection. The following sections set Cotton In-Conversion: For cotton to be certified Metrics (ha, kg, MT, m, b): This report uses the metric completeness check was carried out on all data
out the abridged methodology used to collect, organic, it must be grown organically on land that system for measurements and units have been collected against published data by 53 Certification
analyze, and crosscheck the data on the production has undergone a three-year conversion period from abbreviated as follows. Local units are converted into Bodies across 46 IFOAM Family of Standards.
of organic cotton fiber in 2018. conventional practices (note the conversion period international, harmonized units: ha
may be reduced in certain circumstances). = hectare (1 hectare = 2.47 acres); kg = kilogram (1 Data sources
While no toxic chemicals are allowed during this kg = to 2.20 lbs. = 0.0045929637955183 US
Key terms & definitions bales = 0.005882353 Indian bales); MT = metric ton
time, the conversion period is required to Organic cotton data is collected from governmental
eliminate remaining residues left in the soil from (1,000 kg); m = million (1 m = 1,000,000 kg); b = agencies, certification bodies, organic cotton
Organic Cotton: Organic Cotton is cotton that is
past conventional practices. Cotton produced billion (1 b = 100,000,000). producers, gins and initiatives/ brands. Wherever
produced according to the IFOAM Principles of
Organic Agriculture and certified to the IFOAM during the three-year conversion period is termed possible, data from each country is collected from
Family of Standards at the farm level. At present, the Cotton In-Conversion. Reporting boundaries, completeness, and more than one source and validated against each
main farm standards include the EU Organic other. In selected cases where data can only be
accuracy
Regulations in Europe (EU-Reg), USDA National Organic Certified Land/Land Area Certified To obtained from one source, triangulation and
Organic Program (NOP) in the USA, and the Organic: Organic cotton must be grown on land area Reporting Period: The data are collected over a validation of data may not be possible and the data is
National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP) certified as organic to the IFOAM Family of 12-month cycle and are based on the accepted as it is. While primacy is given to data
in India. Organic cotton production from Participatory standards. However, as organic cotton is grown International Cotton Advisory Council (ICAC) supplied by government agencies and certification
Guarantee System (PGS) that falls outside of within a rotation system to build soil fertility, harvest year of August 1 to July 31. In 2020, data for bodies, data from organic cotton producers
IFOAM’s PGS recognized programs are specifically depending on soil and climatic conditions, the same the 2018-19 harvest year were collected. In countries, continues
mentioned. piece of land may also grow a variety of other crops such as Tanzania, where the cotton is picked between to play an important function for cross-validation
such as groundnuts, maize and beans. As the scope July 2018 and August 2019 (i.e. covering 2 ICAC and to understand farm level scenarios, as
of organic certification covers the variety of crops years), the data is allocated to the first year (e.g., certification body data is limited to a small set of
Organic cotton is grown as part of a production
grown, the land area recorded during a certification 2018). In countries, such as the USA, where the indicators. Collection method range from public
system that sustains the health of soils, ecosystems,
process is referred to as Organic Certified Land. cotton is picked in October 2019 to December 2020, database search, telephone interviews, site visits and
and people. It relies on ecological processes,
the data to the previous calendar year (e.g., October email correspondence between February and July
biodiversity and cycles adapted to local
In-Conversion Land: In-Conversion Land refers to 2018 – December 2018) is reported. 2020. The following table provides a breakdown of
conditions, rather than the use of inputs with
land that is undergoing the required three-year data sources used for each of the 34 countries
adverse effects, and is grown in rotation with other
conversion period from conventional to organic as covered in OCMR 2020 alongside a confidence level
crops that replenish the soil. Organic cotton Cotton Producing Countries/Production: In 2020,
required by all organic standards. While no toxic on the data received based on results of
requires a third-party certification from an Textile Exchange’s systematic collection, review and
chemicals are allowed during this time, triangulation.
independent, accredited Certification Body reporting of organic cotton production covers more
(CB). Organic cotton growing practices may vary the conversion period is required to eliminate than 96 percent of overall cotton production

Back to Contents • 83
GOV = government agency; CB = certification body; OCP = organic
Country G C O G Ot
cotton producer; P = primary data source; S = secondary data source. For the 2020 Organic Cotton Market Report, the likely to be based on actual production, whereas data
O B C i her final organic cotton production data was based on reported by Certification Bodies is likely to be based on
V P n data sourced from Government Agencies estimated production. Production volume collected from
Argentina P (15 percent), Certification Bodies (35 percent), varying data sources is reported in OCMR on an as-is basis
Organic Cotton Producers (41 percent), Ginners (3 and does not account for any variance between estimated and
Australia P
percent), and Others (9 percent). Note that actual production.
Bangladesh P in some countries, data may be combined from
Benin P more than a single source. Historical or Average Yields: Where data is only provided for
Brazil P P land area but not the production volumes, historical yields
Data analysis and checks known for the specific project or locality or annual national
Burkina P
average yields (as agreed by the government and applied by
Faso
Textile Exchange makes every attempt to obtain a certifying bodies) have been used to calculate the production
China P P P
single complete data set per country from volume.
Colombia P Certification Body, a secondary data source from an
Egypt S P Organic Cotton Producer, and where possible, a third Land Area Certified to Organic: In selected cases where the
Ethiopia S P data source from alternative stakeholders. The land area under organic cotton is reported and total land area
different data sets are harmonized for metric certified to organic is reported, the latter is estimated to be
Greece P consistency, and in the case of missing data equal to the former.
India S P S or data deviation, scenarios, or average data are
Israel P used. Collecting data from multiple sources allows Ginning Outturn: Where only seed cotton data is available, lint
Textile Exchange to triangulate the information production is estimated using the ginning outturn known for
Kyrgyzstan P
from different providers and cross- check against the country.
Mali P data reported in the past. In the case of
Mexico P inconsistencies, rationales for decision- making are Estimation for Intercrops: Where only total certified land
defined in a systematic process and documented. area was reported, the average rate of intercrops was
Myanmar P
In case of data gaps, where possible historical data applied to derive fiber production (e.g., in India, the
Nicaragua P and industry averages are inferred. Where data gaps estimate is 33 percent as per Certification Body
Pakistan P S cannot be filled, methodology).
partial data is reported and marked as a general
Paraguay P
indication. The final aggregates are proofed by
Peru S P Land In-Conversion: In selected cases where in- conversion
industry experts.
organic cotton fiber production from land area in-conversion
Senegal P is reported and land area in-conversion is not reported, the
South P Special remarks - supply side yield is applied as the divisor to derive land area in-
Africa conversion.
Tajikistan S P Production Volume: A Certification Body
estimates the production volume of an Organic
Tanzania S P
Cotton Producer at the time of audit. Within the
Thailand P certification process, a variance of up to 10
Turkey S P percent is permitted between estimated production
Uganda S P (at time of audit) and actual harvest
(post-audit). As at time of data collection, Organic
USA S S P Cotton Producers would have realized its harvest, data
Uzbekistan S P collected from Organic Cotton Producers is
Zambia P
Reporting limitations
• The integrity of organic cotton is
assumed addressed through the
certification process and that all
organic cotton production data
provided by data sources are
certified.

• Production data provided by data


sources are accurate, true and complete
to the reporting period specified.

• The variance between estimated


production captured at audit by a
Certification Body and the actual harvest
volume reported by Organic Cotton
Producers is acceptable (per the
certification process).

• Research findings are dependent on


publicly available data and it is the
responsibility of Certification and
Accreditation Bodies to make available
all pertinent data and information.
2020 methodology & disclaimer

2017/18 data revisions


Certain organic cotton data reported for 2017/18 in
some of our data providers. Revisions were also made
our 2019 Organic Cotton Market Report have since
to historical data for these countries prior to
been revised as per the figures in the table below,
2017/18.
after having received corrections from

Organic Organic seed Organic cotton


Organic farmers
certified cotton fiber
Countr
land (ha) (MT) (MT)
y
Report Adjust Report Adjuste Reporte Adjust Reporte Adjuste
ed ed ed d d ed d d
Greece 1,153 1,306 2,500 3,166 850 1,045
Egypt 19 20 777 1,184 287 438
Thailan 4 19 2 7
d
Turkey 266 322 5,418 6,433 29,130 32,236 11,652 12,894
USA 10,644 8,397 14,520 14,573 5,082 5,101
GLOBA 182,876 182,933 356,131 355,052 481,391 485,638 180,871 182,482
L

Table: Revisions to 2017/18 organic cotton production data reported in the 2019 Organic Cotton Market Report.

Disclaimer
Textile Exchange collects and reports production of replace these values with best estimates from
certified organic cotton data from Accreditation historical or comparable proxies. Data reported may
Bodies, Certification Bodies, Organic Cotton change due to corrections or updates from data
Producers as well as other stakeholders on an as- is sources.
basis. Data reported is intended as a snapshot of
production and makes no representation on total For the purpose of the OCMR, organic cotton does
supply. While Textile Exchange carries out a systematic not include any uncertified naturally grown cotton, nor
completeness and accuracy check on its data does it make any statement regarding the integrity
collection process; we rely on our data providers for beyond its certification, and reported numbers, as
data accuracy and integrity. Where data gaps exist, reported by our data providers.
Textile Exchange attempts to

84
Back to Contents Photo: © PAN Ethiopia
Appendices

Back to Contents • 85
Appendices
Textile Exchange membership

About Textile Exchange


Membership Supply Network Brand/Retailer Suppo Friend
Founded in 2002, Textile Exchange is a global Levels & Partner Partner rter

non-profit 501(c)3 with more than 425 members


Pricing $12,500 $12,500 $3,000 $500
that represent leading brands, retailers, and Access to The Hub - Member Portal
suppliers in the textile industry. The organization Annual Conference Ticket(s) 3 (Value $6,000) 3 (Value $6,000) 1 (Value $2,000) –

works to create leaders in the sustainable fiber Annual Conference Exhibit Area 1 (Value $3,000) – – –
Annual Conference Recordings
and materials sector by providing learning
Annual Conference Members Only Event Open to all participating Open to all participating Open to all participating Open to all participating
opportunities, tools, insight, standards, data, members members members members
Access to Regional Events Open to all participating Open to all participating Open to all participating Open to all participating
measurement, and benchmarking-and by building members members members members

a community that can collectively accomplish what Material Snapshots Library (29 Publications)1 Unlimited Unlimited Unlimited –
Fiber Quick Guides (Biosynthetics, Organic Cotton, and more)
no individual or company can do alone. Unlimited live Unlimited live Unlimited live Unlimited live
Webinars
access and access and access and access and
recordings recordings recordings recordings
Benefits of membership Unlimited live Unlimited live Unlimited live Unlimited live
Annual Member-only eLearning Series + Report Briefs
access and access and access and access and

Textile Exchange membership connects you Corporate Fiber and Materials Benchmark Participation
recordings
Anticipated Pilot 2020
recordings
Open to all
recordings
Open to all
recordings
Open to all
Banchmarking

to a powerful community of brands, retailers, Corporate Fiber and Materials Benchmark Private Brand Report Anticipated Pilot 2020

and companies, large and small, from Corporate Fiber and Materials Advanced Report Card Anticipated Pilot 2020 $2,000 $1,000

across the textile world - all seeking to Corporate Fiber and Materials Benchmark Report Card Anticipated Pilot 2020
Industry Research Reports

Annual Preferred Fibers Market Report


create a more Corporate Fiber and Materials Benchmark Sector Overview
sustainable and responsible fiber and materials Corporate Fiber and Materials Benchmark Sector Report

industry. Members gain access to learning Organic Cotton Market Report

opportunities, tools, relevant data, insight reports, Special Annual Reports

industry networks, and connections and, above


Standards Benefits

Certifcation Toolkits

all, the opportunity to take action, individually and Sourcing Guides (not all Standards)

collectively. Labelling Guide

Brand and Retailer Toolkit

Standard-specific Webinars and Access to Recordings


Contact us
Supplier or Brand/Retailer Training – –
Access to Round Tables Open to all Open to all Open to all Open to all
Services

Céleste Lilore Access to Round Table Summits

Director of Industry Engagement Access to TEam Members; In-Person meetings2 – –

Celeste@TextileExhange.org Access to Learning Center3


Member Spotlight – –
Recognition

Logo on our website, with links

Certificate of membership

Back to Contents • 86
Taylor Bittenbender Membership Coordinator Taylor@TextileExchange.org

Back to Contents • 88
1. Value $250 each; Total Value $7,250. Updates scheduled for 2020.

Back to Contents • 89
2. Meetings subject to availability and geography.

Back to Contents • 90
3. Member access via The Hub. Non-member access via store.textileexchang

Acknowledgments

It has been a privilege to work alongside the committed community of organic cotton farmers, manufacturers, brands, and retailers to generate this report. We
would like to extend our sincere gratitude to all that have contributed data, expertise, updates, and photos for their continued and valuable co-operation:

Action for Social Advancement (ASA) • Alliance Ginneries Ltd • APEDA • ARMEDANGELS • Bergman Rivera • Bio-Kishovarz
Cooperative• bioRe® Foundation • BioSustain • Control Union • Cotlook • CottonConnect • Cotonea / Gebr. Elmer &
Zweifel GmbH & Co. KG • ECOCERT • ECOfashion Corp/MetaWear • ecos • EMBRAPA Algodão • ESPLAR • Fair
Cert • Fairtrade • FENABE • GIZ • GOTS • Green Net Cooperative • ITOCHU Corporation • Laudes
Foundation • Naturetex • OneCert • OBEPAB • Organic & Fairtrade Cotton Coalition (CCBE) • Organic Cotton Accelerator • Organic
Cotton Colours • Pesticide Action Network (PAN) Ethiopia • Pure Sense Organics • Rare • Remei AG • SANKO • SEKEM • Soil & More
Impacts • Soil Association • Stay True Organic • Suminter India Organics Pvt Ltd • Texas A&M AgriLife Research • Texas Organic Cotton Market
Cooperative • UNPCB • USDA Foreign Agricultural Service • Welspun Group • WWF Pakistan

Report production team Regional data collection team


Lisa Barsley
Sub-Saharan Africa: EMENA & Central South & Southeast
Phil Bettany (design)
Asia: Asia:
Silvère Tovignan, Lazare
Alice Dos Santos Atila Ertem Amish Gosai
Yombi, Leonard Mtama
Amish Gosai
Suet Yin Siew
Latin America & the
Evonne Tan China: USA:
Caribbean:
Jun Zhao Sandra Marquardt
Liesl Truscott Silvio Moraes

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Textile Exchange envisions a global textile industry that
protects and restores the environment and enhances lives.
www.TextileExchange.org

To learn more about organic cotton, visit Textile


Exchange’s dedicated microsite:
www.aboutorganiccotton.org

For the latest news and trends in the wider preferred fiber
and materials landscape, check out Textile Exchange’s
2020 Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report.

Back to Contents • 92

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