Craft Document

कोलHAPURI CHAPपल

Document By:
Students of
B.F.Tech Department
(2019-23)
 Declaration

We students of "B.F.Tech Department" hereby declare that the craft cluster study on craft
"KOLHAPURI CHAPPAL" submitted to 'NIFT MUMBAI' is a record of secondary research by us
under the guidance of 'Ms. KAVITA PATHARE' is our mentor for craft cluster study.
 Certificate
All the data provided in this document is sourced from authentic sources and sites and is
true to our knowledge. No part of this report is forged in any digital form. The output of
this report is for academic research only. No commercial value should be derived out of it.
 Acknowledgement

We are grateful to the sanctum of "NIFT Mumbai" for providing an excellent platform to pursue our project
work in good spirit.

Our profound gratitude to our mentors Ms. Kavita Pathare and Mr. Ranjan Kumar Saha, for the constant help
and support and for permitting us to carry out this research work. We also thank them for timely suggestions
and encouragement at every step, which helped us to complete the work successfully.
We thank all our friends for their constant support and valuable feedback on surveys without
which the successful completion of this report would not have been possible. We also thank the craftsmen of
Kolhapur who have been immense support. We thank all the teaching and non-teaching staff of our B.F.Tech
department for their constant support.
 Abstract
Documentation of the Craft Cluster study done by B.F.Tech Department (2019-23) students of the
National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Mumbai (Campus) on Crafts of Kolhapuri Chappal in
the academic year 2021.
Through an in-depth study of the processes, techniques, current scenario of the crafts and the socio-
economic conditions of the craftsmen and interaction with the craftspeople, this cluster intervention
sensitized the student towards the craft and the artisans. It was also aimed to give students an insight
into regional sensibilities, diversities, resources & the environment. Further, the intervention provided a
window to the student on methods to work in the crafts sector with artisans and aid them to promote
themselves through various means of design & technology that they have learned.
KOLHAPUR - A City in Maharashtra situated
on the banks of Panchganga surrounded by
beautiful Sahyadri mountain ranges.
 August 1-13 (2021)
Contents
01 02 03 04 05 06
TOURIST
ABOUT KOLHAPUR CLIMATE INTRODUCTION MAKING PROCESS TOOLS & MATERIAL
ATTRACTION
PAGE-1 PAGE-3 PAGE-4 PAGE-7 PAGE-8 PAGE-11

07 08 09 10 11 12
PRODUCTS CRAFT SIZE EXPORT SWOT/ USP CRAFTSMAN GOVT. INITIATIVE /
PROFILE POLICIES
PAGE-14 PAGE-15 PAGE-17 PAGE-18 PAGE-21 PAGE-23

13 14 15 16 17
GI & QC MARKET & STATUS &
ISSUES & CHALLENGES FUTURE PROSPECTS ERGONOMICS
MARKETING CHANNELS WASTE MANAGEMENT
PAGE-25 PAGE-28 PAGE-30 PAGE-32 PAGE-34 PAGE-35
MUMBAI - KOLHAPUR
Mumbai- Kolhapur
DISTANCE
376.5 KM.
 1
About Kolhapur

ओ
On the banks panchganga river, kolhapur is one of the most ancient and
historic city of India, Maharashtra. In southern maharashtra it is the
administrative headquarters , also before independence Kolhapur was
ruled by bhosale chhatrapati (of maratha empire)
Myths about demon in kolhapur are well written in the history and the city
was named after that demon ”KOLHAPUR”. Goddess killed the demon but
his last wish was to name the city after his name. Thus the name derived
‘kolha’ name of the demon nd ‘pur’ means city.
This city is located in southwest region in maharashtra state , 373 km (232
mi) south of Mumbai & 228 km (142 mi) south of Pune,(330 mi) west of
Hyderabad, 615 km (382 mi) north-west of Bengaluru, and 530 km ,
Chandgad is considered to be the most coolest place in kolhapur.
 2
How ToReach

म क ड
RAILWAY ROAD AIRPORT
Mumbai-Kolhapur is linked Kolhapur city is located on NH4 AND Domestic airport of Kolhapur ,
via Chhatrapati shahu NH204 . This city has three state bus Chhatrapati Rajaram Maharaj Airport,
maharaj terminus railway stands namely Central Bus Stand (CBS), is located on the distance of 9 km.
with express service to Pune , Rankala Bus Stand and Sambhajinagar south east of Ujalaiwadi city in
Mumbai ,Delhi, Bengaluru. Bus Stand. Kolhapur Municipal Maharashtra.
Shuttle service connects Transport (KMT) which provides local Daily flights from kolhapur-hyderabad
kolhapur and main railway bus service. CBS Kolhapur is one of the and bengaluru are operated by
hub of miraj on central busiest roadways in western alliance air . Nearest international
railways daily. Maharashtra with 50,000+ commuters airport of kolhapur are Pune
per day. international airport which is(240km)
and goa international airport(220km)
 3
Climate
सी
Climate of Kolhapur is a blend of costal and island atmospheric
conditions which is very common in many regions of Maharashtra.
Summers in Kolhapur are comparatively cooler, with a mixture of
humidity.

Kolhapur city receives abundant rainfall in rainy season which starts

from June to September and temperature remains low as 19-30
degrees Celsius.

In winter season from November to February the temperature

remains a little higher than other cities but humidity content remains
less .
 4

Places To Visit

कKolhapur is known for its historical forts, temples and royal palaces. It is one of the best places to explore the
splendor and magnificence of India. The district of Kolhapur has several places for tourists and depending
upon their interest they can explore this exotic place. It is well connected by buses, trains, and airplanes.
 म
Mahalakshmi Temple (Ambabai Mandir), is a

प
Panhala Fort also known as Panhalgad is a fort located 5
MAHALAKSHMI TEMPLE
temple where Goddess Mahalakshmi is
at Kolhapur district. The word Panhala means “the

PANHALA FORT
worshipped mostly by the hindu people. This
house of the serpents”. This Panhala fort is 20 km
temple is located in the centre of the historic
northwest in Kolhapur. The fort is a great example of
city of Kolhapur. It is believed that this temple
the ancient Indian heritage and also marks the reign of
is one of the 51 shakti peethas, scattered
Shivaji maharaj here. The fort is constructed in a way
around India. Built in the 7th century,the
that the Sahyadri mountain ranges are visible from the
Chalukya empire is considered as the architect

ज
fort. This mountain pass is one of the main trade routes.

र
of this temple.
Jyotiba temple is believed to be one among the 12

JYOTIBHA TEMPLE
Rankala Lake is situated on the western side of
RANKALA LAKE

Jyotirlingas, which are located all over India. Other

Ambabai temple. It is a beautiful evening spot
names of the temple are Kedarnath and Wadi Ratnagiri.
and is also used as a recreation centre. The lake
It is situated to the north of Kolhapur. The temple was
was constructed by the late Maharaja Shri
originally built in the year 1730 by Navajisaya. It is 330′
Shahu Chhatrapati. Shalini Palace is in the
high from sea-level. The interior of the temple is very
backside of the lake. It is the only star-rated
primitive and ancient and the idol is four-handed. On
Hotel in Kolhapur district. Chaupati, a place in
the day of Chaitra Poornima(full moon in month of
the surroundings of the rankala lake is very
chaitra) a big fair is held here. Many people visit this
famous for Bhel-Puri and Ragda-Patties and
temple at this time.
various food items.
6
 7
An Introduction

व
Worn by everyone, from the Maharaja of Kolhapur to rural folk, these
chappals have a story that dates back to four hundred years. These are
Comfortable, hardy, and aesthetically designed as they express the very
essence of a traditional craft. Kolhapuri Chappal originated from
Kolhapur, which was specially made for the people of this place. Chappals
that are made of the hardcore are for the farmers and fancy chappals for
the office bearers in the courts of the king as per their need were made.

The Chamar community does the hereditary occupation of tanning and

leatherwork. Chappals are usually flat with intricate patterns made of
leather as the base and finer leather for the strips to decorate the upper
portion. The cords used to stitch the chappals were usually made of the
tail part of the buffalo/ cow leather, but nowadays nylon threads are used.
They are traditional chappals with a toe strap, decorated with golden
cords and leather braids.
 8
Process Of Making
The entire process of chappal making can be divided into three stages, tanning of leather,

ट
preparing the chappal, and strap making.
Tanning of Leather:
• Outer skin of the aged cow/buffalo is kept in a tank of salt and limestone for four days, which makes the skin softer
and easy to remove hair from the skin.
• It is then stitched with sisal leaf into a bag form.
• Mixture of Hirada (Myrobalan fruits) pieces, Babul pieces with water are mixed in a wooden bucket for about five
days.
• This mixture is filled in a bag for 7-8 days and again the mixture is filled to the lower portion and tied for about 8
days.
• The skin is turned inside out and the process is repeated for the upper and the lower portions. The skin is fully
immersed in the five feet deep tank of the solution for 7 days.
• In the end the skins are kept on the bed of Babul and Hirada under direct sunlight to dry, and later, stored in a
closed room.
म स
Making of the Chappal:
• The rough surface of the leather is shaved till it becomes
smooth.
• The tanned leather is cut as per the form of the slipper
according to the size.
• Face part of the skin is used for the footbed of the
chappal and the other parts of the leather for the sole
part of the chappal.
• The thick part is used for making the sole by regular
beating with the Asti.
• Sole and the cut pattern pieces are stuck with the local
adhesive.
• Shoe cream, color (yellow or red) mixed with little water
is brushed in stages to get yellowish or reddish color.
• The straps are attached to the base of the chappals, toe
straps are attached and extra plaited straps for
ornamentation purposes are done.
• Chappals are dried in diffused sunlight for 30 minutes.
Strap Making : 9
• The side patti’s of the chappal is made of goat
leather.
• It can be curved to any shape as per preference.
• The skin of the sheep, that is sheep leather is cut
into thin strips and plaited which is later fixed on the
side strap and kept aside for drying.
• Base of the chappal was usually stitched with skin
part (hide of the buffalo/ cow) of the tail, but
nowadays it is stitched with nylon threads.
*Whole process of preparing a pair of
"chappal" takes around 6-8 hours *
 11
Tools &Material

ट
• Country Hammer: It is used to thud the sole and footbed.
• Punches: Used to punch out designs and numerals.
• Stamps: Stamps for stamping logo.
• Rappi (Knife): Rappi is used to cut the leathers to the appropriate designs.
-TOOLS-

• Asti (hammer): A metal hammer that is used to beat leather.

• Machine: It is used to cut bubbles or hirda.
• Sewing Machine: It is used to sew the braids together.
• Chandini Punch (Star Pogar): This tool is used to create a pattern.
• Thodapaekapathi: Thodapaekapathi creates a wave effect or zigzag pattern.
• Grinder: Grinders are used to finish raw materials by smoothing them down.
• Palagana (Gargoti stone): Palagana assists in the removal of the outer hair
from buffalo or cowhides.
• Kurpa (hasiya) and Setall (aari): These knives can also be used to cut leather.
• Rubber Powder: Rubber Powder is used to adhere the leather to the surface.
• Wooden Sponge: The wooden sponge is dipped into the rubber solution and
applied to the leather for pasting.
 र • Sisal Leaf (Cactus): During the bag tanning process,
Sisal Leaves are utilized to stitch the buffalo/skin cows
together.
• Nylon Threads: Nylon Threads are used to stitch the
12

chappal to the specifications of the buyer.

-RAW MATERIALS -

• Shoe Cream: It is used to shine shoes.

• Buffalo leather: It is the most common raw material
used in the production of Kolhapuri chappals.
• Seeds (vinchu) Tree: To generate sound while
walking, a specific sort of seed is kept between two
layers of sole.
• Chunna (limestone): Chunna is used in the bag
tanning process to smooth the leather.
• Red Flower: This flower is used to decorate the
chappal.
 GOAT / BUFFALO
LEATHER 13
PUNCHING MACHINE

RAPI & KURPA KNIFE

SISAL LEAF (CACTUS)
FOR CUTTING

NYLON THREAD STAMPING TOOLS

LIMESTONE POWDER

SHOE CREAM
 14

Products

ट
The more the braids more the cost(max 9 braids).
Decorations made with zari or red sponges are usually worn
on special occasions. Price Range: Rs. 500-5000 Other use
of leather - belts, wallet, etc.

Design names for men: Designs for ladies:

• Kapsae
• Korwnda • Banthe
• Paper Kapsae • Nachemaruie Chappal
• Venivala Chappal • Ladies Panchingpoda
• Poda Kapsae • Slipper Patavedi
• Shahu Maharaj • Ladies Paper
• Mogadi-Half Shoe • Agutapata
• Maherban • Gadarpata
• Original-Kapse

Craft Size
ट
The Sales and Production in Kolhapur have
been involved with this craft for many years.
The items are popular all over the world,
despite the fact that it is mostly a small-scale
cottage enterprise. The majority of the industry
involved in the production of Kolhapuri
footwear is made up of cottage industries, and
the people who work in them are members of
the cobbler community. Every member of the
Kolhapuri chappal artisan's family is involved in
the manufacturing process, as seen here with
the Kolhapuri chappal. They cut the leather,
stitch the Patta' (strap/belt), and weave the
Veni', among other things (braid). The artisan's
family participates in the manufacturing
process.
15
The males in the family usually cut the leather,
while the women stitch the upper and lower
soles in their leisure time or after completing
household chores, while the children and
occasionally the women weave the 'Veni
(braid) for adornment. The entire family puts
in long hours, and they typically produce 30 to
40 pairs of chappals per week. These
chappals are sold to wholesale dealers or
shopkeepers in Kolhapur, with artisans
earning between Rs. 200 and Rs. 700 each
pair, depending on the quality of the leather
used and the style of the chappal.
 16
Presently, there are about 5633 units engaged in the manufacture of Kolhapuri
chappals employing 22500 artisans of which 10% are women artisans. Nearly 80
percent of the leather artisans manufacture Kolhapuri chappals for the
middlemen who supply raw materials to them. The leather artisans work for the
dealers or middlemen on a wage basis, which provides required raw materials
to manufacturing units. Most of the Artisans work for 8-10 hours per day or
accordingly as per the order requirement.

The current cost of production has increased due to an increase in the prices of
raw materials. Hence, higher investment is required. Most craftsmen invest
roughly between Rs. 5000-10,000 in the leather occupation. One-fourth of the
craftsmen invested approximately Rs.10.000-20.000 while 3 percent of the
craftsmen invested as much as Rs. 30,000.

Kolhapuri chappals are not only the favorite of the natives but are also liked by
people across the globe and thus have a great demand in the international
market. These are mostly available at an economical price.

Export
ट
The government has made steps to help the sector, but
they are not being properly executed. Export demand
exists in all major nations, including Europe, the United
States, and Australia, but we are unable to meet it on a
significant scale. Work on the standards is also required.
Because of the presence of Indians in all nations, people
are aware of these products.
These chappals are made from natural leather and are
handcrafted. During the months of April to August 2020-
21, these chappals were exported for a total of Rs 68.5
lakh. Shipments totaled Rs 1.74 crore in 2019-20. Australia,
France, Korea, Malaysia, Nepal, Mauritius, Singapore, and
South Africa are among the most popular export
destinations.
17
This product is in high demand both domestically and
internationally. Upskilling craftsmen in areas like correct
design and color usage can aid them in more effectively
promoting their products.The government has already
given the handcrafted Kolhapuri chappals a
Geographical Indication (GI) badge in order to promote
them. A geographically identified product (GI) is primarily
an agricultural, natural, or manufactured product
(handicrafts and industrial items) that originates from a
certain geographical location. Typically, such a name
offers a sense of quality and uniqueness, which is largely
due to the location of its origin. Once a product has this
tag, no one or corporation can sell a product with the
same name.
 18
SWOT Analysis

स
Strengths
Availability of skills
High demand during festival
seasons such as Ganapati, Diwali,
व
Weaknesses
and others
Work done from home
Not limited to any one
community's day-to-day wear
and tear.
These are long-lasting and come
in different colors.
Natural and polished - both
finishes are available.
There are no iron nails in them.
Raw material availability: Leather is prohibited in India, thus it is no
longer available locally. They must be purchased from other states
(Chennai).
The raw material of poor quality: The raw material is of poor quality.
The tanneries in Chennai and other parts of the country supply the
craftspeople with second or third-quality leather.
During the rainy season, extra care is essential to preserve the
product against fungus caused by dampness.
Lack of Technology: Craftsmen may have skills, but they lack
technological backing, which explains why output rates are so low.
Reliance on traders: Due to limited production, craftspeople are
financially vulnerable and hence unable to obtain raw materials on
their own.
ओ ट
Opportunities Threats 19
The months of non-working days can be used to create A ban on cow leather, which is a primary raw
prototypes for new concepts. material for chappals, would raise demand for
Product diversification: Instead of focusing just on other leathers, raising raw material prices.
chappals, craftsmen could expand into other product Kolhapuri chappals are being displaced by
categories like belts, purses, and bags, resulting in a similar leather chappals from other parts of
growth in the cluster's non-traditional market. the country.
Technology: With the help of technology, such as the
installation of equipment, production may be multiplied
and economies of scale can be realized.
Outside of India, there is a large demand for Kolhapuri
chappals that has yet to be met. Only a few pairs are
shipped, but with sufficient marketing and logistical
support, the artisan market may be multiplied.
The government has set aside land for the community's
settlement, although it has yet to be used. This area can
be used to establish a leathercraft training institute,
tannery, and research and development institute.
 20
USP

इ
*USP stands for Unique Selling Proposition*
Except for minor embellishments and stitches, Kolhapuri Chappals are
entirely composed of leather.
It features hand-stitched leather and punching that is done by hand. The
most common leathers are buffalo, goat, and ox.
The colour of the chappals comes from the protective polish that is
given to them. The primary colours are black, orange, yellow, and beige.
By combining different polishes, new shades of these colours can be
created.
According to myth, these chappals keep the feet and eyes cool, making
them ideal for hot weather.
The most recent models on the market are carefully constructed with
gold cords, zari strips, pom poms or gonda, and other embellishments,
and can be worn on events such as weddings and parties, giving the
wearer a regal, royal appearance.
 21
Craftsman Profile
Name: Kundan Satpute
Age: 63 years

फ
For more than 40 years, Mr. Satpute has been involved in the
manufacture of Kolhapuri chappals. He makes a living off of the sales
and profits he makes from these leather goods (mainly Kolhapur
chappals). He is currently the only one in his family who works and
earns money. On a small-scale production level, he creates high-
quality kolhapuri chappals and sells them to a nearby merchant. Since
he comes from a poor background, he is scared to try new ways to
market his product, therefore he only sells to a single merchant. He
wants to alter things up and try new things to build his firm, but he is
unaware of government assistance and schemes.
 He also wants to sell his items in other Maharashtra cities, but he can't afford 22
the travel costs and is wary about introducing middlemen. He has a vast
knowledge of the skill, and he makes the chappal's base and Patti, while his
wife sews the chappal together. She is the one who sews the stitches on the
chappal. They prefer to sell their chappals to local retailers since they pay
them all upfront, even before any sales are made. This not only assists them
in running their family but also in obtaining raw materials for future
manufacture. His main wish is for a better platform on which to market his
goods and diversify his business.
 23

Government Association

ल
Leather Industries Development Corp. of Maharashtra (LIDCOM)
To promote and uplift the leather industry LIDCOM was formed on 1st May 1974. The head office is
located in Mumbai. LIDCOM has been brought under the control of the Social Welfare, Cultural Affairs,
and Sports Department. The decision was taken to give financial assistance to the community which is
engaged in the development of the Leather Industry.

The corporation has four production centers in Maharashtra State located at Amaravati (Daryapur),
Hingoli, Kolhapur, and Satara.

Also have six Shops situated at Mumbai, New Mumbai, Dhule, Jalgaon, Solapur, and Nanded.
 24
Government Initiatives

सCentral Leather Research Institute (CLRI) – Technological Support.

Asian Centre for Entrepreneurial Initiatives (ASCENT) – Social Support Ascent – an NGO that works on the
method of working
National Leather Development Programme (NLDP) – Sponsors the craft by revamping the trade
Leather Technology Mission (LTM) – Sponsors artisans and the craft in the innovation of technology and
design.
 25
GI
GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION (GI)

आ
A geographical indicator (GI) is a name or sign that appears on items and refers to a specific region. It serves as
proof that the product meets specified criteria and is produced using traditional methods.
India approved the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999, as a member of
the World Trade Organization (WTO), which took effect on September 15, 2003. The WTO Agreement on Trade-
Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights defines GIs in Article 22(1).
India approved the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999, as a member of
the World Trade Organization (WTO), which took effect on September 15, 2003. The WTO Agreement on Trade-
Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights defines GIs in Article 22(1).
 26
Quality Control

ट
There are not many quality controls in the Kolhapuri Chappal but some of them are;
The quality of leather: The quality of leather depends on the type of animal you are chosen. So, hard leather is
recommended for the sole and a softer one from the goat is recommended from the veni.
Interactions with the artisan-made we realize that the craftsman doesn’t find many quality control issues in the
leather except for the one, i.e., the chappals tend to get fungus in the rainy season that is the period between April
to July. Now during that period they majorly make soles as not many people buy Kolhapuri because of the same. So
in their lag period, they make soles in storage for the next Ganesh Chaturthi season that is going to come.
If in the season any of the soles catch fungus the general procedure is to clean it up with a nice clean cloth and
leave it in Sun for 6 to 10 hours and the chappal is as it can be.
The color fastness: In terms of the unorganized sector there is no quality issue as the natural dyes don't have
colorfastness properties and sun protection but for organized sectors, these are important for them to import
hence they are looking into it and using permanent dyes.
The vinchu seeds sound
The strength of the polyester thread that stitches the chapel together
The strength of glue solution
27
 28
Market / Marketing Channels

MARKET ANALYSIS ' KOLHAPURI CHAPPAL "

क
Kolhapuri chappal being one of the most famous ethinc wear footwear for men and women across the country
is facing lot of issues in market scenario. After Covid-19 hit the countries economical status this craft has
experienced hard time keeping up with the original market . After interacting with the artisans we found out that
they are in contact with the market dealers for their sale of chappal and are facing hard time with the sale of
chappal. sourcing for the production of kolhapuri chappal also became expensive due to Covid -19 hit. More
than 300 households in the region depend on the trade . Artisans are facing drastic 40% decline in the market
scene .
MARKETING CHANNELS ' KOLHAPURI CHAPPAL " 29

ट ट
Subcontracting Units
The special varieties of Chappals
or leather products are directly
linked to these types of units.
These units provide the necessary
raw materials in defined quality
levels and also market the finished
leather Chappals and related
items. At the moment, the
divisional office of LIDCOM in
Kolhapur serves in this capacity.
According to demand, Kolhapuri
Chappals are delivered to Chennai
and Kanpur markets. These
Chappals are made for export and
are not available for purchase in
the local market.
Traders/Shopkeepers
The majority of Kolhapuri
Chappal makers are located in
the Kolhapur area.
After exhibiting samples to the
dealers, they supply Kolhapuri
Chappals of various styles and
qualities to some traders or
dealers. Small producers buy or
borrow raw materials (leather) on
credit and sell their finished
goods (Chappals) to traders or
shops.
स
Local Marketing
Some Chappal producers do not maintain
relationships with traders or shopkeepers
and instead sell their products directly to
consumers in retail stores, local sales, or
retail markets. Village leather artists in the
Kolhapur district make Chappals and sell
them for income not only locally but also
in the Kolhapur market. They don't have
any dealings with shopkeepers or traders.
The majority of Chappal manufacturers
have their own unique designs. Because
of their popularity in TV serials, specific
sorts of Kolhapuri Chappal designs such
as (Devyani, Sangram, etc.) are sometimes
manufactured. These carfts are highly
popular
 30
Issues and Challenges

क
Kolhapuri Chappals are beautiful. They are renowned all over the world and people love
them a lot. They are very pretty and fashionable. Yet, despite all these demand factors,
some say that this art is nearing extinction every day, the artisans practising the art are
determined to not let their kids do what they are doing.
Here we have written about the main problem that the artisans have conveyed.

Kolhapuri Problems
Finance - The artisans feel like this line of work is getting lesser and lesser profitable day
by day. They do not have the sales and marketing education neither are they financially
literate. The artisans barely know how to read and write and thus want to send their kids
to schools to study. The artisans work very hard on making these slippers but have to sell
them at meagre prices to shop owners and retailers which is not fair. Beside is a picture
of an artisan telling the price of one piece of kolhapuri chappals and the kolhapuri
We sell for 100-200
chappals being sold at extremely high margins on other platforms.
rupees
 31
Impact of veganism

व
Veganism and beef ban in Maharashtra
Ban of beef in Maharashtra and veganism has been paining a lot on the pocket of
the craftsman. As there is a decline and there is a hike of rate in the making of
Kolhapuri chappal.
As the beef ban in Maharashtra was implemented it caused a lot of problems for
the artisans since they are not able to source it locally, they have to pay a little extra
and are not able to increase the cost of the product with the market competition in
hampering their profit percentage
Now as far as veganism goes from our interaction with the craftsman there haven’t
been any issues with that nationally and in unorganized areas, as of yet but in the
international markets and organized sector a lot of companies have started using
Terracotta leather and rubber sole for the vegan and cruelty-free product.
We sell for 100-200
rupees
 32
Status Of Craft

स
Shopkeepers in Kolhapur's famous chappal road now shout out to
passers-by, enticing them to buy Maharashtra's legendary footwear brand.
Kolhapur's chappal road is dotted with about 50 businesses offering
handcrafted footwear. Hundreds of shops, artists, and small-scale
manufacturers, meanwhile, have been severely harmed as a result of the
lockdown.
Kolhapuri chappal has a total revenue of Rs 9 crore. Around six lakh
chappals are produced each year by the 10,000 artisans who operate in
the city's manufacturing district of Subhash Nagar. Almost a third of the
chappals are exported. The transport of raw leather from a government-
approved facility in Chennai has nearly ceased since March 2020.
Craftsmen are concerned about their livelihoods because there are no
sales and no raw materials available.
 33
Sustainability & Scrap Management

स
Sustainability and scrap management
The craft of Kolhapur chappal uses mostly natural products hence they are not bad for the environment.
Now the scraps of the leather produced are used in the soles at times majorly by craftsmen and in the
small detailing of the chappal. Though in organized companies they use the scrap for making a different
product out of it as well like bags, wallets, bags, etc.
The making of the chappal doesn't include many chemicals except for the pasting solution that is not
wasted even a single drop and the die which is natural dyes, though they do through the waste in the
water body nearby them or in the sewer while not harming the environment.
The only thing that is not sustainable and eco-friendly is the elastic polyester threads used for stitching
which was are earlier used to be done by the hide of the tail of the animal.
The tools used are made of iron and have a long life with regular maintenance so they don’t pose any
serious threat as well

Future Prospects
इ
It's been a struggle for the Kolhapuri chappal (footwear)
industry, which dates back to the 12th century, to keep up
with market trends and serve worldwide markets, but the
Covid-19 ban has been a big hindrance for manufacturers
and craftspeople. This is a thriving industry that has
experimented with its products to find out what works best.
A few months ago, we began a campaign to bring Kolhapur
shoes to market. It is our firm belief that the product will
find a market on the international market. There is a
marketplace for Kolhapuri chappal within the worldwide
market. Even though it's unclear how long it'll take for the
industry to recover from recent setbacks, the artisans are
continuously working on new ideas. Kolhapur artisans have
produced new designs for their chappals in the past, while
also changing the classic chappals to suit their tastes.
34
Aesthetically attractive Kolhapuri chappals are known
for their ornate woven pattern on the upper bands.
Produced using traditional methods and tools, this
footwear is crafted from vegetable leather that has
been tanned. Artisans today manufacture diverse
variations of these designs while introducing new
colors. We need to come up with new ideas for the
advancement of this unique art form, and we need to
do it quickly. Five-star hotels might enter into
partnerships with manufacturers of Kolhapuri chappals
to keep this footwear in the almirah of the bedrooms.
Afterward, customers could test them out and, if they
liked them, purchase them. Could be a fantastic boost
for a declining craft.
 35
Ergonomics

ट
The entire manufacturing process is divided among male and female workers of the house.
Female workers are mostly involved in less forceful activities i.e., strap making and stitching but they generally have a
bad posture which leads to MSDs. They don’t have a proper workstation and generally work on the floor bending
with the major light source being sunlight as well.
There is an urgent need for effective implementation of the intervention program and some changes are required
immediately concerning their current work areas. Further, it has been identified that there is a high prevalence of
musculoskeletal pain among female workers at the low back followed by neck, knee, and upper back. Further in
understanding the relationship between the postural load and types of musculoskeletal pain, it was found that low-
back pain is prevalent.

Male workers of the family work on the making of the sole and the assembly. Now similar to women they also have
bad posture and they stay in that for approximately 10 hrs a day. They undergo bending, pounding, vibration, etc.,
daily which in turn leads to shoulder aches, arm pain, numb body parts, etc. . With the lack of proper lighting and the
detailing that goes into assembly they often get eye problems in the long run with symptoms of increasing eye
pains.
 36
Questions & Answers
*These are the answers to the questions we asked our artisan from the previous
questionnaire *

ARTISANS LIFESTYLE/ CRAFT

Artisans lifestyle
How is the next generation in the family, looking up to Are there any work traditions that you
business and craft? follow?
My son is doing a job in Pune and he won’t continue with this No
business. Who are your customers?
Who are your competitors? I sell my Kolhapuri Chappals in bulk order
All the local sellers of the Kolhapuri Chappal in the Kolhapur quantity to traders but if someone is interested
market. in buying a single pair, they can also buy.
Which is your best sale season? How do you spend your day?
August-November I work from 8AM-6PM daily.
How many artisans work alongside at a time?
I usually work with my wife.
About craft 37
How is Kolhapuri Chappal different from other leather What are the classic designs that you sell?
chappals? Depends on the buyer.
It’s purely made of leather without using any iron nails or Would you be able to recognize the product
rubber. that you have created after a long time?
Has there been any difference in the past few years on Yes, I have several numerical stamp marks which I
the use of craft? punch on it.
No Is there a trademark style that you have that
Has there been any problem that you faced in terms of differentiates you from other kolhapuri
selling the craft because of the vegan movement? chappal artisans?
No No
How much time would it take to make a pair? How do you store your crafts? Where and
6-8 hrs why?
What are the changes have you made in terms of design I store my Kolhapuri Chappals in my house only.
in recent years? And why? Is it an online business or physical business
I make the Chappals according to the designs approved by the or both?
buyer. Physical business
 ERGONOMICS 38
While working in the same posture for a long time Do you have to move a lot while preparing the
with continuous bending are there any long term craft?
issues like back pain or other serious health issues? No
Yes, I have back pain and wrist issues. How do you arrange your tools?
Would you like to change anything in your work I keep it together so that it is easily accessible.
area and why? Is there any common disease that you as a
Do you have enough space to work with or would community are facing?
you like more? Yes, severe back pain.
I have enough space. Have you felt any discomfort while handling
How many lights do you have? What is the power of your tools?
that? Are there any vibrations that the tool makes?
1-2 No
Is there proper ventilation? Does it take a lot of strength to make one
Yes chappal?
How do you normally work (sitting or standing)? Yes
Sitting work mostly.
 TOOLS & TECHNOLOGY
TOOLS
Does the material of tools affect the craft quality?
It may affect the craft quality, since I’ve been using the
same tools from the very beginning and haven’t tried any
other material tool.
Are there any alternatives to the tools which you
use?
No
Have you changed some of the designs of the tools?
No
39
TECHNOLOGY:
If there has been technical intervention in the
craft tools and techniques, what are they and
how have they affected the craft and its
market?
No technical intervention has been there.
If you were to change something in terms of
the technology you have what would you like
to add?
N/A
Do you have waste management systems?
No
 SUPPLY CHAIN
40

Is it easy to get the raw materials and labor? Do you get a better deal exporting with
Yes international buyers?
Where do you get your raw materials from? N/A
The main raw material is leather, which comes from Is there any difference in the product that
Chennai, India. you export and sell nationally?
Do you export your product outside India? N/A
We just sell the required order to the shopkeepers at What changes have you experienced in the
Kolhapur. We are not responsible for exporting. business after getting the GI tag in 2019?
Do you think if you increase your profit margin N/A
there would be an effect on the sale?
N/A
Where do you feel more comfortable in selling your
product, nationally or internationally?
N/A
If you export how do you connect with the buyers?
N/A
 COVID EFFECTS 41

How Covid-19 affected the cluster?

It has affected the cluster badly.
Difference between sourcing the material before and after covid?
No
Has Covid changed business for you?
Yes, the business completely stopped during the corona period and is slowly resuming now.
Have there been any changes in the export business as well for you?
N/A
Has there been any help that the government is providing in terms of sourcing with covid?
No
 42
Reference
www.google.com. (n.d.). Redirect Notice. [online] Available at: https://www.google.com/url?
sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolhapuri_chappal%23:~:text%3DThe%2
520origin%2520of%2520Kolhapuri%2520Chappals [Accessed 10 Aug. 2021].
CONTENT REFERENCE

springerprofessional.de. (n.d.). Analysis of Posture Adopted by Female Kolhapuri Chappal (Footwear)

Manufacturing Workers India. [online] Available at: https://www.springerprofessional.de/en/analysis-
of-posture-adopted-by-female-kolhapuri-chappal-footwear/16002134 [Accessed 12 Aug. 2021].
neeru (2015). Tools and Raw Materials. [online] D’Source. Available at:
https://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapuri-chappal/tools-and-raw-materials [Accessed 09 Aug. 2021].
L, P. (n.d.). Kolhapuri Chappal: A Journy from Robust to Delicate. www.academia.edu. [online] Available
at: https://www.academia.edu/7084132/Kolhapuri_Chappal_A_Journy_from_Robust_to_Delicate
[Accessed 4 Aug. 2021].
www.craftandartisans.com. (n.d.). Leather Kolhapuri Chappals/Sandals of Maharashtra | The Craft and
Artisans. [online] Available at: http://www.craftandartisans.com/leather-kolhapuri-chappals-sandals-of-
maharashtra.html [Accessed 20 Aug. 2021].
 43
Reference
National Skills Network. (2020). How this entrepreneur is restoring the lost glory of Kolhapuri
chappals. [online] Available at: https://www.nationalskillsnetwork.in/how-this-entrepreneur-is-
CONTENT REFERENCE

restoring-the-lost-glory-of-kolhapuri-chappals/ [Accessed 24 Aug. 2021].

https://mssidc.maharashtra.gov.in/?page_id=44
www.learnandearn.in.net. (n.d.). Account Suspended. [online] Available at:
https://www.learnandearn.in.net/kolhapuri-chappal-original-information [Accessed 7 Aug. 2021].
Yeh Hai India. (2020). Traditional Indian Footwear, Ethnic Footwear, Popular Indian Footwear.
[online] Available at: https://yehaindia.com/indian-footwear-from-different-parts-of-the-country/
India, H. (2017). The art of Sole Dressing- Kolhapuri Chappals. [online] Heritage India Magazine.
Available at: https://heritage-india.com/art-sole-dressing-kolhapuri-chappals/ [Accessed 5 Aug.
2021].
Shiprocket Social Blog. (2016). The In & Out of Kolhapuri Chappals – History, Facts, Fashion &
More. [online] Available at: https://shiprocket.social/blog/the-in-out-of-kolhapuri-chappals-history-
facts-fashion-more/ [Accessed 4 Aug. 2021].

.
 44
Reference
CONTENT REFERENCE

Jun 23, B.M.B. / U., 2019 and Ist, 06:00 (n.d.). Chappal therapy. [online] Bangalore Mirror. Available
at: https://bangaloremirror.indiatimes.com/opinion/sunday-read/chappal-
therapy/articleshow/69909706.cms [Accessed 5 Aug. 2021].
Anon, (n.d.). Kolhapuri Chappal | Kolhapur | India. [online] Available at:
https://kolhapur.gov.in/en/kolhapuri-chappal/ [Accessed 5 Aug. 2021].
Discoveredindia.com. (2020). [online] Available at:
http://www.discoveredindia.com/maharashtra/arts-and-crafts/kolhapuri-chappals.htm.
www.craftandartisans.com. (n.d.). Leather Kolhapuri Chappals/Sandals of Maharashtra | The Craft
and Artisans. [online] Available at: http://www.craftandartisans.com/leather-kolhapuri-chappals-
sandals-of-maharashtra.html.
 45
Reference

Inc, D. (n.d.). Kolhapuri chappal Stock Photos, Illustrations and Vector Art | Depositphotos®.
IMAGE REFERENCE

[online] Depositphotos. Available at: https://depositphotos.com/stock-photos/kolhapuri-

chappal.html?filter=all&qview=463571130 [Accessed 27 Aug. 2021].
www.shutterstock.com. (n.d.). Kolhapur Images, Stock Photos & Vectors | Shutterstock. [online]
Available at: https://www.shutterstock.com/search/kolhapur?
kw=non%20copyright%20pictures&c3apidt=p19241817341&gclid=CjwKCAjwmqKJBhAWEiwAMvG
t6D7GEmkDWkQ2D3sNWgi-
1iqMHt6IoRH5CzBYc38haxjt1aaCQ9J0khoCT2oQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds [Accessed 27 Aug. 2021].
neeru (2015). Making Process. [online] D’Source. Available at:
https://www.dsource.in/resource/kolhapuri-chappal/making-process [Accessed 27 Aug. 2021].
 BHAVYA SODVADIYA
DHRUV KUMAR GUPTA
ISHIKA MALU
HIMANSHI
HIMANSHU SARAF
PRAKRITI GORAI
RIYA PREMI
TATHAGAT NARAYAN

B.F.Tech Department

Batch (2019-2023)