HERBAL

CoSMETICS
Handbook
 6.7 DEPILATORIES
Products used for the removal of unwanted hair
by chemical
agents are commonly called depllatories. The requlrements of a depila-
tory are that it should be (1}nonirritating and innorcuous, (2) efficient
in action, removing hair within a 10 min perlod, anf (3) be without odor
or have tha pleasant odor of the perfume.
The activity of the depilatory substance depends upon (1) the
nature of the depllating or denaturing agent, (2) the duration of the
action, (3) the pH of the cosmetic medium, and (4) the temperature of
the reaction.

The depilatory most widely used today is based on calctum

thioglycolste in a strongly alkaline medium, pH ca 12.3. It also con-
tains a small amount of a wetting agent, a filler, enough slaked lime
to attain the required pH, and alkali stable perfume. The commercial
products are sold elther as thin or very thick pastes, packaged ina jar
or collapsible tube.

A typlcal formula for depilatory is: 69.0 wt% base cream [60.10
wt% distilled water (solvent); 32.00 wt% calclum carbonate (filler); 6.15
wt% cetyl alcohol (bodytng agent for cream); and 1.75 wt 6 product G-
2135 (wettng agent and emulstfler): 15.0 wt% distilled water; 6.8 wt%
calctum bydroxtde (pH control; 5.4 wt% calctum thoglycolate (deplating
agent); 3.4 wt% strontum hydroxtde (pH control): and 0.4 wt% per-
fume. Perfumes used for deplatorles have to be spectlally formulated
to overcome the intense product sulfide odor and be stable In the high
pH medlum of 12.3.

In manufacture the following precautlons must be observed: (1)

avotdance of metal contamination from Iron or copper or other heavy
metals, pure stainless steel is satisfactory: (2) avoldance of unneces
sary exposure to air as oxidation reduces product strength; (3) pH
376 Herbal Cosmetics Handbo
control at ca 12.3, which should be checked before nan
choice of packaging, pure tin is best,
proper wax-lIned lead jng. 1
glass. and polyethylene packaging are satisfactory. tubes
The removal of unsightly hairs from certatn parts of the
beautifies. A depilatory, therefore, is correctly classed as body
It has been confirmed through market surveys that about one auart
metlc.
of the feminine population of the country remove superfluousha
al
either by mechanical or chemical methods. The reason for the grourth
of superfluous hair has not been definitely determined. Often this
condition does detract definitely from one's personal appearance. Women
particularly do not wish to appear mannish by having halr prominent
particularly on the face. Then too, the spread of contemporary fashions
which dietate the use of sleeveless gowns and bathng suits and ether
sheer or cosmetic stocking dictate the removal of hair under the arms
and on the legs.

Since hair removal involves a few words regarding the

compost
tion of hair is in order. Hair consists mainly of amonio acids some of
which contain sulfur and cystine, the most prominently present amino
actd in halr. These actds are frequently referred to as keratin whlch Is
a term to indicate the constiution of the protelns in the horny part of
hair, feathers, nails, hoofs and horns. Protein, as is well known, is the
name given to a great. number of nltrogen contalning substances
found in plants and anlmals. Thelr molecular welghts are very hign
(between 34,000 and 200,000) and they yield amino acids upon hy
drolysis.
This composition of halr was
rather forclbly impressed upon U
when we recently saw a
pen of poultry which was part o
thelr nitrogen feeding recelving as
supplement in the form of feather proteln m
tially rendered edible by dissolving halr and
same
feathers very much in the
way as chemical depllatorles remove halr from the human body.
Hair is aresistant materlal whlch
Is not
destroyed and hence requlres careful readily dlssolvedor
If It is cut off it continues to conslderatlon for remeving It.
grow, some
authoritles malntain this
growth is more luxurlant and coarser. If it Is
If It is destroyed by X- Ray the tissues are pulled out it grows agaln.
trolvsis is a suitable method for adversely effected. Elec
permanent removal but is slowand
cOstly. When chemical removal ls used
danger of irritatlon ts present,
 377
Depilatories

of the hair is closely related to the make-up of

since the composltion
t h e epidermis.

question of unsightly halr on varlous parts of the body is

The
means. It may be disgulsed by coverlng it with
dealt with by various
powder, it may be bleached, it may be
a flesh-coloured liquld or

or it may be removed by chemical action. While

removed mechanically
brlef comments on the other methods
we are only interested in the last,
are of interest.

or too dark, coverlng it with

If the hair is not too long, too coarse,
a sultable liquid powder or regular powder suffices as a rapld tempo-

rary expendient to make it less noticeable. Men particularly take a

the hair stuble on their faces wlth a coloured
"quick shave" by covering
men's talc or other powder when not wishing to shave. Women resort
to cake make-up and the lHquld powders to disguise. hair. In certain
cases where the hair is dark ladies will bleach downy growth by
bleaching the cleaned parts with soap and water, followed by the use
of peroxides and diluted ammonia water.

The mechanical methods whlch are used to remove undesired

hair are shaving electrlcal methods which include X-Ray, high fre-
quency currents and galvanism and epilation or pulling out the hair.
The last rightfully falls Into the cosmetic field while the other two are
really devices. Shaving of halr hardly needs any further comment as
the process is so well understood. Removal of hair by X-Ray is very
dangerous as the rays also destory the tissue and skin surroundingit.
This method is not to be recommended. The other electrical methods
consist ofthe use of a galvanlc current and high frequency current. The
galvantc method conslsts of passinga direct current through one or
several speclally made needles Inserted at the hair follicle and caustng
a chemtcal reacton to destroy the hair permanently. This method
tnough slow has met with good results over a long perlod of years. More
hair ls being permanently removed by the use of high fre-
cenuycurrrents which set
yuency up waves akin to radio waves. These waves
are passed through a needle which is stuck into the hair follicles which
t 1s desired to destory. Unlike-X-Ray these rays are qulte sare and

satisfactory.
waxng Another quite generally emploved method of removing
Wanted hair is by the use of epllating waxes. This method is pallful
 378 Herbal Cosmetics Handbo
though rapld. Most of us at some time or other have Handbook
ha a plaster
removed from out chest, and winced at the procedure. The
epilating waxes particulatly if used over large area is even actlon d
more seye
They consist of a mixture of waxes which melt at
temperatu evere
a
enough to be applied to the skln in a semisoild form. In congeal re low
occlude the halrs. By stripping the layer of congealed waxfrom thethey
s
the hair is pulled out by the roots with the wax film. Because skin
of
pain occasioned in this stripping process these waxes are not use.the
ed as
often as chemical depilatories.

The manufacture of epilating waxes occasions no particular

dit.
ficulty. Sometimes small quantitles of castor oil and turpentine with
alcohol and flexible collodion are used for the same purpose to form
a quickly congealing product to produce a flm which will trap and
firmly hold it. This pulls out the hair the same as the waxes do. It ls
also customary to add benzocaine, a local anesthetic, to certain formu-
lations to reduce the pain.
Varlous formulas follow:

No. 1 EPILATING WAXES

Light coloured rosin 52.0
Yellow beeswax 25.0
Paraffin 17.0
Petrolatum 5.0
Perfume 1.0
100.0
Melt the rosin and the waxes, mix and add the petrolatum, then
when the temperature drops to about 60° C. Add the
perfume and pour
the melted mass into sultable molds. When this wax Is used it Is melted
and palnted over the surface to be dehalred.

No. 2
Rosin
42.0
Yellow beeswax
37.0
Carnauba wax
6.0
Mineral oll
14.0
Perfume
1.0
100.0
Same as Formula No. 1.
Depilatones 379

Chemical Depllatorles are useful in temporarlly removing any

undeslred hair from tme to time that projects above the outer surface
of the sktn. Since there is an Irltating actlon, due to the development
of a strong base, during the depllating process, these products should
be so formulated as to complete their reaction in not over five minutes.
In the majority of cases the halr Is softened, swelled and
dispersed by
the action of the chemicals. The active chemicals most generally used
are the metallic sulfides of which barlum, calctum and strontum are
most often employed. Other chemicals like tin salts, calcium
thioglycerol
and calctum thioglycollate are also used. In certaln cases
patent rights
for the use of certaln ingredients and comblnations exist. This
point
must be taken Into consideratlon.
Very often dermatitis causecd by the use of a depilatory is due not
somuch to idiosyncrasies as to improper use of the materlal. Any
women with a healthy skin can
depilatory without irritation
use a
provided it is not left in contact with the skin too long, and also
provided she does not suffer from an allergy. Since the composition of
the hair Is related to that of the
epidermis, it is abvious that any
substance which will dissolve hair wll exert a similar action the upon
epldermis in this way causlng irritatlon.

For this reason the directions the

on
depilatory package should
be very explictt in regard to its The user should be advised to make
use.
a reaction test on a part of her arm whlch is devoid of hair
by applying
a little of the depllatory and leaving it on for about five
minutes. If the
subject has a sensitivity toward depillatorles or an unusually sensitive
skin she wll observe an acute
hyperemla or possibly some evldence of
a more severe dermatitles
and at the same time she will suffer from a
stinging sensatlon. No person sufferlng such a reaction should use a
chemical depllatory. Following such a test the depilaroty should not be
applled the same area agaln because the outer or
over
the epidermis will have been softened to horny layer of
such a degree that a second
application of a depllatory to the same spot may cause irrltation
The
directions should further emphaslze that a
skin is not healthy should avoid the person whose
use of a
should indicate that the skin to be depilatory, and also
dehaired should be cleansed
thoroughly and dried. Then the depilatory should be applied and
allowed to remain on the skin for about five minutes, the time being
 380
Herbal Cosmelics Hand
governed by the thickness of the halr. It Is manifest
will require a longer perlod of that
off with warm
time. The depllatory should
should coarse
abe wast
soapywater, theskin patted
dry and treated
cream. In the event that not all the hair is
removed followinswith
th
co
application, the user should be warned not to repeat the the fi
for several days. app
Chemical deplatories are sold in the forms of
liqulds, Dastes
powders. The most popular types of depilatorles are the pastes a
and
powders.
The most popular depilating chemical is barium sulfide. It ha
excellent depilating properties without being excessively harsh.
S
dium and potassiumn sulfides are altogether too strong, in view
of whie-
their use is usually confined to liquid depilatorles which
contali
glycerin or other substances to offset irrtation. The depilating proper-
tles of calclum sulfide will often do serlous injury unless the
matertal
is freshly made aswlll be explatned hereafter. Thallum acetate
was
suggested by an eminent dermatologist as an effective depilatory In a
concentration of 1%. His views have been shown to be entirely wrong
Thallium acetate is not a depilatory at all. It removes hair by killing the
root and causing It to fall out. Because it act through the blood stream.
its action is not confined to the area to whlch it Is applied, and hence
ts continued use may be followed by the loss of hair all over the entire
body. Because of Its highly toxic properties It Is illegal to use.
Owing to the unpleasant odor of depllatorles when they are
applied to the skin it is very difficult to obtain a perfume whlch wll be
of value. The perfume materlals used are aromatic
alcohols, ketones,
1onones, anise, safrol and rose. The perfume employed should not bite
when touched to the tongue.

The formulas for powder depllatoriles constst

and a carrler, whlch when molstened, will form a
of a depllating agent
moderately viscous
past. The materlals for the carrler are corn starch, talc, titanium
dioxide, terra alba, barlum sulfate, and zinc oxide. Some times a small
quantity of pulverized soap Is added to act as a blnder, but It Is not
necessary when starch Is present. To these baslc materlals a local
anesthetic such as benzocalne or menthol is at times added. The
material is then perfumed.
 381
Depilatornes

The mafacturtng
procedure Ivolved in making powdered depila
very stmple. equlpment needed conslsts of a dry mixer
The
tortes is
a sifter
stmilar to an ordinary face powder nixer and
which may be
that the mixer be extermely tight because the depllatory
I ts essential
In contact with ar, As soon as the product is
finlshed
will break down
and the package used should have a very
1t should
be packaged at once
tught seal

are more difieult to make than the powders

Depilaroty pastes
whlle
because the depllating actlon of the paste mnust not be Impalred
ttme the body of the paste must possess
sufflclent fluldity
at the same
comblne these propertles In a paste
to make
Its application easy. To
One
hard on the storekeeper's shelves Is not too easy.
that will not get
a depllatory paste
Is to make calclum sulf-hydrate by
way of making
reactlon is
sulfide gas Into lIme water. When the
passtng hydrogen
wll have preclpltated out. But
completed the calclum sulf-hydrate
It Is customary to leave It In the
instead of removing the preclpitate,
suffictent quantity of Inert materlals such as
zinc
mbxture and to add a
tltanlum dloxlde, starch, precipltated
stearate, talc, colloldal clay,
sultable comblnatlon of these to make a paste
of
chalk, etc, or a
other method conslsts In maklng a powdered
requlslte conslstency. An
stated formulas and making it Into a paste
depllatory according to the
mixture of glycerln, water and soft soap. Still another
by adding a
to add
method 1s to take qulck lIme and
slake It wlth water and then
tmes as much sulfur. More water
the slaked lime about two and a half
Is added and bolled until the
sulfur dissolves. The water lost by
mixture ls made into a paste by the
evaporatlon Is replaced and the
described above.
addition of inert materlals such as those
barlum or strontium sulfide Is
Sometimes a small quantity of
added. It 1s true that although pastes made by passing hydrogen
sullide Into lime water are sald to be most satislactory from every polnt
will find
of view, persons lacking experlence and technlcal tralning
follow as a
them somewhat difficult to make. With the formulas that
Before
gulde It should be possible to make an effective deptlatory paste.
record
placing a depllatory paste on the market, however, patent
should be searched to avold conflict with patented products.
the
"In the formation of a successful marketable cream depllatory
in the
chemist is confronted with one of the most difflcult problems
 382 Herbal Cosmetics Handboo
cosmetic fleld. This product must do its work and do tt co
a very short
time. It must be strong enough chemically to da. ompletely 1
vet it is necessary to make it from chemicals that are eastly
and subject to change. Its odor should not be objectilonable vet Oxidlze
of the chemicals that meet the above hair removing requirem
It should not cake in the cuh
possess very disagreeable odor.
a
some of the usual ingredients have the property of "setting" an slh

oxidation and subsequent hydration. It formulated t

should be
white, clean appearng cream yet the slightest impurity in any ofthe
the
materials will cause a discolouration to greenlsh muddy colour

"Cream depilatorle are not creams and properly should be mar.

keted as paste depilatories. They are not emulsilons, do not contans
an aqueous solution of
sulfides with other inert
greases or oils but are
materials or fillers properly incorporated so as to give a smooth spread.
be selected from materials that wll not
ing paste. The fillers should
If a white product is
react with the sulfied, even on long standing.
soluble metallic salt that
desired they should be free from iron or any
blanc fixe, hydrates calctum
forms black sulfides. Titanium oxide,
kaolin may be used in
sulfate or barium sulfate are sultable. Talc and
coloured pastes. Depllatories using calcium
sulfide contain calcium
from the iron whlch
hydrate and are usually coloured a muddy green
calclum hydrate. Sometimes a paste made from
is impurity in
an
as the base for
tragacanth or agar with starch and wheat flour is used
paste. This makes an agreeable paste."
Depilatory liqulds are easy to make. As already stated, depilatory
Hqulds are mixtures of strontlum or sodlum sulflde, water and glycerin
to which, sometime, starch, colloldal clay or saponln are added.
The usual types of chemical depllatorles are represented by the
following typlcal formulas

No. 1 Depilatory Powder

Titanium dioxlde 23.0
Barlum sulfide 35.0
Wheat starch 40.0
Menthol 0.2
Perfume 1.8
Depilatornes
383

Dissolve the menthol in the perfume oll; rub it up with a little of

the starch. Sift the tiltanlum dioxide and bartum sulfide into the mixer.
Mix and sift in the remalnder of the starch, then sift in the menthol-
nerfume mixture. Mix the entire batch for about half an hour and then
fill containers.

No. 2 Depilatory Powder

Barlum sulfide 28.0
pulverized neutral soap 5.0
Wheat starch 40.0
Rose geranisum perfume 1.8
Zinc oxide 25.0
Benzocaine 0.2

100.0
Mix the benzocaine and perfume and rub it up wlth a little of the

starch. Sift the barlum sulfide and the zinc oxide and the remainder
of the starch into the mixer and mix. Add the pulverlzed soap and the
perfume mixture. Close the mixer and mix for about half an hour. Fill
at once.

No. 3 Depilatory Powder

Strontium sulfide 35.0
Corn strach 35.0
Talc 28.0
0.2
Menthol
1.8
Perfume
100.0

Make by same method as Formula No. 1

No. 4 Depilatory Powder

Strontium sulfide 25.0
Barum sulfde 10.0
Corn starch 35.0
28.0
Calcium Carbonate
2.0
Perfume
100.0
 384
Herbal Cosmetics Handbo
No. 5
Depilatory Powder
Barlum sulflde
Strontium sulfide
Talc 150
Calctum carbonate 20.0
Corn starch 14.0
Lavender oll 24.0
25.0
2.0
Proceed as with the
previous formulas. 100.0
No. 6
Strontium sulfide
Depilatory Powder
Corn starch
30.0
Prectpitated chalk 15.0
Glycerin 15.0
Water 10.0
Perfume 29.0
1.0
Add the 100.0
glycerin to the water. Mix
solution has been effected mix in the strontium sulfide. When
the strach, then and sift in the
is obtained. The
add the
perfume. Mix thoroughlyprecipitated
until
chalk and
a smooth
of the strach andconsistency of thls paste can be paste
chalk mixture. regulated by means
No. 7.
Strontium sulfide
Depilatory Paste
Barium sulfide 15.0
Talc 15.0
Corn starch 10.0
Glycerin 20.0
Water 18.0
Perfume 20.0
2.0
100.0
Mix the barium and
erin. Mix the starch and strontlum sulfides with the water and
the talc; sift the
solution. Mix well and add the dry materials into the
su
perfume.
Depilatories 385
No. 8 Depilatory Paste
Fresh sulfurated lime 25.0
Collotdal clay 5.0
Corn starch 15.0
Prectpltated chalk 35.0

Glycerin 19.0
Perfume 1.0

100.0
Make the sulfurated lime as follows: Take 16 parts of qulcklime
95 parts of sublimed sulfur, 1500 parts of water. Add a small quantity
of the water to the lime suffcient to slake it. Bol the remalnder of the
water. Mix the slaked Iime and the sulfur and gradually add the bolled
water. Then boil this mlxture with frequent agitation until a sufliclent
amount of water has been driven off by evaporation to make the
mixture equal a thousand parts. Keep the mixture at the boillng potnt
for an hour, adding whatever water may be lost in order to do this.
Then allow the mbxture to stand until cool and strain it. Thls wll gve
a solution which will be clear brownish red in color. Take the amount
of sulfurated lime of the formula, mtx in the gycerln. Sift and add the

dry materials until a paste of the proper consistency is formed. Add the
perfume.

No. 9 Depilatory Powder

Barlum sulflde (light gray) 10 kgs

Venetain red 1"

9 gms
Sodiurn blcarbonate
Terra alba 100 kgs
Perfume 8 gms

No. 10 Depilatory Powder

Barlum sulfide 20 kgs

20
Zinc oxlde
Soap neutral powder
Honey 80
"

Talc
Perfume
 386
Herbal Cosmetics Handbo
Sodium sulfide
No. 11
Depilatory Liquids Hancdbork
Honey
Water 9.0
Alcohol 100
Perfume 78.5
2.0
0.5
Dissolve the sodium sulfide in half
of the water; add
100.0
and mix. Add the remainder
of the water and fînally add thethe dh.
dissolve in the alcohol. Mix well and filter.
The strength of perfun
tory can be increased by this denl
but in
increasing the percentage of sodtum deplla-
no case should it exceed 10%. sulfide
No. 12
Sodium sulfide
Starch 10.0
Honey 10.0
Water 10.0
Alcohol 67.0
Perfume 2.5
0.5
100.0
Dissolve the sodium sulfide in half the
water. Make a paste with
the glycerin and the starch and
add thls to the sulfide solutlon, then
add the remainder of the water
and the perfume dissolved in the
alcohol. Mix throughly. In this
formula the starch is optional. Some
prefer to omit it.