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Point Allocation Based Quality Control A
Point Allocation Based Quality Control A
1
Assistant Professor, State University of Bangladesh (SUB),
chowdhury_noman@yahoo.com
2
Industrial Analyst, shabab.haque@group-qa.com
Abstract
Since inception from 1970, Bangladesh’s garments export industry showed consistent growth and has become one of
the driving forces of the country’s economy. To sustain this position in global competitive environment, improving
and maintaining of quality is indispensible. Defects in products challenge the value creation process of any assembly
line of a factory. Garment manufacturing is no exception. Having an efficient quality control practice ensures fewer
defective garments products and reduced wastage of resources expensed for re-works. This paper suggests point
allocation based quality control method over other methods and presents a comprehensive study on types and
frequencies of defects that occur in shirt manufacturing process the objective of which is to provide management with
an insight regarding the nature of defects mostly experienced by workers. This would eventually help management in
planning for defect-detection training and would provide clearer picture regarding scope and priorities of quality
control training programs.
Key Words: Garments, Defects’ Analysis, Point Allocation System, Quality control, Woven, Shirt manufacturing
1 INTRODUCTION
Thanks to many macroeconomic factors, Bangladesh has placed itself as one of the leaders in
garments domain in the world. Since the inception of its garments export industry in the late
1970s, its RMG export levels grew steadily and has become a top with around USD 15 billion
in export value in calendar year 2010. With 12 percent annual growth rate clothing exports are
the key driving force behind GDP development (7% CAGR from 1995-2010) [1].
In order to sustain this position in global competitive environment, improving and
maintaining of quality is indispensible. Improved quality accounts for customer satisfaction
and consistent customer demand.
Every assembly operation in an apparel floor adds value. Defects in products challenge this
value creation process. Having an efficient quality control practice in place and efficient
detection of defects in products ensures fewer defective garments products and reduced
wastage of resources expensed for re-works.
This paper presents study on a renowned garments factory’s sewing section. This study tries
to conduct a comparative analysis over different quality control approaches with respect to
level of motivation they create among workers, resource cost involved with each of the
approaches. The study also conducted a comprehensive study on types and frequencies of
defects that occurs in shirt manufacturing process in order to provide management with an
insight regarding the nature of defects mostly experienced by workers. This would eventually
help management in planning for defect-detection training and would provide clearer picture
regarding scope and priorities of quality control training programs.
1.1 Problem Definition and Methodology
As stated in the preceding chapter, the objectives of this study are as follows:
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
There are numerous factors that need to be considered while defining quality of a product.
Appearance, design, measurements, safety, relevance, price etc. are some quality factors.
There are some other factors which are related to processes as well. Man, Machine, Material,
Method and Money (i.e 5M) addresses quality of processes.
2.3 Inspection
Inspection routines must be operated to check whether an item or operation meets the specific
range of acceptable quality. The ultimate goal of inspection is to find out the faults in the
earliest phases possible.
In garments industry, inspection is mainly performed in three stages:
(i) Inspection of raw materials
(ii) In-line inspection
(iii) End-line inspection
On reception of raw materials like fabric, zipper, labels, thread etc. from vendors, this first
phase of inspection is conducted. In-line inspection is in-process inspection and done while
the process is on or during intervals of consecutive processes. Traffic Light System, an in-line
inspection process is becoming popular over the last few years. End line inspection is
conducted at the end of processes focusing on overall inspection for all types of faults. In the
following chapters some of the inspection methods are discussed.
2.4 Four-Point System
Four-point system is related to Fabric inspection. As soon as the vendor supplies fabric, the
role of fabric is unwinded and passed over a special inspection table and then two inspectors
inspect the fabric.
2.5 Traffic Light System (TLS)
Traffic Light System (TLS), a statistical approach, is widely used in in-line inspection. If
appropriately implemented, TLS creates motivation or quality awareness among the workers.
In this system, each operator is given a job card with quality points. A TLS job card is shown
in Table 2-1.
Table 2-1: TLS Job Card
In this factory where the study was conducted, a Quality Control Inspector (QCI)
takes 7 pieces of sample from a bundle and checks those pieces. If there found a
single defect, the operator is penalized with a red or yellow mark on the TLS Card.
This way, each operator is checked 4 times a day - 2 times at AM and 2 times at PM.
For an error-prone worker, the frequency may be higher (that's why there are 4 boxes
instead of 2 for each of AM and PM in the TLS Card).
Evaluation of a worker in the TLS is done in the following ways:
If the current grade is Green, next fault would cause it to be Yellow, otherwise
the code would remain Green.
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
If the current grade is Yellow, next fault would cause it to be Red, otherwise
the code would remain Yellow.
If the current grade is Red, next ‘no-fault’ would make it Yellow and next 3
‘no-fault’ would yield it to Green. Any single fault in the next 3 samples
would yield it to Red again.
After one month, the performance would easily be evaluated. More red marks
definitely mean bad performance.
TLS has some demerits. It has tendency to evaluate tough-job-operators poorly while
awarding easy-job operators. Uniform sampling from all the operations should yield
better results.
2.6 Acceptance Sampling
Before the shipment of finished garments, it is necessary (for the buyer/consumer) to
inspect the lot. The objective of this inspection is to find out whether to accept the lot
or reject it. Accepting a lot without inspection is unusual in garments industry. On the
other hand, sometimes it involves 100% inspection where every single item is
inspected. Though 100% inspection naturally means high quality, at the same time, it
involves cost and time.
Acceptance sampling method is a very popular and widely accepted method in
inspection. This method decides sample sizes and criteria for accepting or rejecting
the lot in statistical method. In acceptance sampling, a sample is taken from the lot,
and some quality characteristics of the units in the sample are inspected. Then, a
decision is made regarding lot disposition. Usually the decision is either to accept or
to reject the lot.
Some aspects of acceptance sampling are needed to be kept in mind. Its purpose is to
'sentence' lots, not to estimate the lot quality. Most acceptance sampling plans are not
designed for estimation purpose. Again acceptance sampling plans do not provide any
direct form of quality control. Acceptance sampling simply accepts or rejects lots.
Even if all lots are of same quality, sampling may accept some lots and reject others.
This is unlike process controls which are used to control and systematically improve
quality.
In comparison to 100% inspection, acceptance sampling has some advantages. It is
usually less expensive and involves less handling of the products. Fewer personnel are
involved in inspection activities. It often reduces the amount of errors in inspection.
Sometimes the rejection of entire lots as opposed to the simple return of defectives
often provides a stronger motivation to the vendor for quality improvements.
There are some disadvantages of acceptance sampling, as well. There are risks of
accepting ‘bad’ lots and rejecting "good" lots. Less information is usually generated
about the product or about the process that manufactured the product. Acceptance
sampling requires planning and documentation of the acceptance sampling procedures
whereas 100% inspection does not require this.
2.7 Types of Sampling Plans
There are number of different ways to classify acceptance sampling plans. One major
classification is by attributes and variables. Variables, of course, are quality
characteristics that are measured on a numerical scale. Attributes are quality
characteristics that are expressed on a "go, no-go" basis.
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
Sampling plans can also be classified on how many samples are to be taken from the
lot. Thus, sampling plans can be classified as - single sampling plan, double sampling
plan and multi-sampling plan. Multi-sampling plan is not used commonly in the
garments industry.
A single sampling plan is a lot-sentencing procedure in which one sample of n units
is selected at random from the lot, and the disposition of the lot is determined based
on that sample. For example, a single-sampling plan for attributes would consist of a
sample sized n and an acceptance number c. If there are c or fewer defectives in the
sample, accept the lot, and if defective items in that sample are more than c, then
reject the lot.
Double-sampling plans are somewhat more complicated. Following an initial
sample, a decision based on the information in that sample is made either to accept or
reject the lot or take a second sample. If the second sample is taken, the information
from both the first and the second sample is combined in order to reach a decision
whether to accept or reject the lot.
A multiple-sampling plan is an extension of the double-sampling concept, where
more than two samples may be required in order to reach a decision regarding the
disposition of the lot. Sample sizes in multiple sampling ate usually smaller than they
are in either single or double sampling.
The ultimate extension of multiple sampling is sequential sampling, in which units are
selected from the lot one at a time, and following inspection of each unit, a decision is
made either to accept the lot, reject the lot, or select another unit.
3 PROJECT WORK
On completion of the study on all the process and quality control system in the sewing
section of a shirt manufacturing floor, we have proposed Point Allocation System
(PAS) based quality control. The Sewing Section addressed in this study uses Traffic
Light System (TLS). For an effective PAS in practice, workers need to be trained in
defects’ checking. As the number and types of defects found in a sewing section is
quite large, management can opt for staring with the most frequent defects. For this a
comprehensive study has been conducted on 6 months’ data on defect types. After
analysis, this paper lists the operations in a sewing section that are the most defect
prone as far as Average Defect Rates (ADR) are concerned. Then this paper puts light
on those most defect-prone operations in order to list the defect types that are most
frequent.
3.1 Point Allocation System (PAS)
In the proposed method, Point Allocation System (PAS), workers themselves will be
considered as quality controllers. They will evaluate their own work and will make
sure that they produce defect-free products. Eventually, they would act more carefully
and would be trained for having clearer picture regarding specifications and necessary
treatments for each fault.
The required training and awareness will be provided to the workers. Special care
would be taken for tougher job operators so that their defect-rate reaches close to that
of easy-job workers. They should attain the capability of understanding requirements
merely by observing the sample and specifications hanged in the line.
For this, Quality Circles may be introduced. Each Quality Circle will include
operators of similar type of jobs led by the most skilled and experienced operator or
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
even by a production supervisor. Members of the Quality Circles will sit once in a
week to discuss their jobs, problems faced as well as share the solutions with
management. Every meeting should have tangible outcome with problems defined
and solutions proposed. Provision might be introduced for rewarding the best
effective or creative solution.
Thus required number of Quality Control Inspectors (QCI) and Supervisors would
become less. The floor supervisor will act like a floating Quality Controller and look
after all the line activities and the operators will consult with him as soon as they find
any problem. Each of the workers will be provided with a PAS Card (Figure 3-1).
Also, the Quality Supervisor will bear some tokens.
faults by finding faults committed by others, there will be less chance for a
defective item to pass out.
Every worker now plays a role of quality checker, which will be a motivating
factor for the workers.
There will be significant cost savings due to decrease of number of Quality
Inspectors.
3.3 Finding Critical Operations
Sewing Section is divided into two main sections according to functionalities: Make
Section and Body Section. Make Section is responsible for producing collar and cuff
while the Body Section assembles the collar and cuff with the main body and sleeve
of the shirts. Different parts of a shirt are demonstrated in Figure 3-2.
Pocket Rolling
Lower Front
Rolling
Cuff Mark +
Back Tuck + Care Main Label Attach Sleeve Mark
Label Attach (at Yoke)
Collar Joint
Cuff Attach
Bottom Hem
Hole Stitch
Button Attach
Thread Cutting
Lining
Ironing
Fusing
Collar sewing
Collar turning
Cuff fusing
Cuff Rolling
Cuff sewing(&
Inlay cutting
Hole Stitch
Button Attach
At the end of every month, the TLS Card for every operator is evaluated and the
Average Defective Percentage (ADP) is calculated. ADP is calculated with the
following formula:
ADP = ( # of defectives found / Total # of units inspected) X 100 %
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
ADPs are used to find out critical operations with high defect rates. Operations having
Average ADPs below 3% are usually considered as satisfactory. Our study shows
that, the critical operations having Average ADPs above 3% are as follows:
Collar Band Joint - 3.44%
Front Placket-3.83%
Main Label -3.37%
Pocket Attach - 5.53%
Placket Attach Sleeve – 5.79%
Sleeve Joint - 6.12%
Arm-hole Top Stitch -7.16%
Side-Seam - 7.96%
Collar Joint – 7.17%
Cuff Attach - 8.43%
Collar Joint Top Stitch - 5.99%
Bottom Hem - 7.07%
3.4 Study and analysis of Most Frequent Defects
Now, the critical and fault-prone operations are sorted out, the training program
should be designed giving importance on them.
For every critical and error-prone operation listed above, six months’ comprehensive
data on reports of different types of defects were collected in following paragraphs.
From those tables, one can easily get idea regarding types of defects that are most
common for each of the operations [Table 3-1].
Table 3-1: Common Defect Types
# Operation Defect type
Collar Band Nose Up Down
1
Joint Width Irregular
2 Front Placket Skip Stich
Slip of Stich
Check Bias
Skip Stich
C/L Reverse
6 Sleeve Joint
Open stich
Puckering
C/L Displaced
Raw Edge
Arm Hole Top
7 Width Irregular
Stich
Top side loose
Raw Edge
Pleat
Skip Stich
8 Side Seam
Intersection Point
U/D
Width Irregular
Allowance Uneven
9 Collar Joint
Puckering
2-PKT Up-down
Width Irregular
Check Bias
1 Improper back
Cuff Attachment
0 Stich
Pleat
Projection
Slip of Stich
Figure 3-6: Pareto chart with common Defects in for Collar Band Joint
From Pareto chart of defects, we can see that Nose Up-Down is the most frequent
defect in Collar Band Joint, the reason of which includes lack of adequate skill in
operators, defects in the shape of pattern and also defects in stiches made by top-stitch
operators.
Figure 3-8: Pareto Chart with common defects in Main Label attachment
Label Bias is the most frequent defect in Main Label Attachment operation which
might be caused mainly due to lack of attention while handling label and fabric,
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
Figure 3-10: Pareto Chart with common defects in Placket Attach Sleeve
Defects of Uneven Point in Sleeve Placket are caused mainly by inadequate ironing,
mal-handling by the operators, lack of care by Placket Attach Operator.
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
Figure 3-12: Pareto Chart with common defects in Arm-Hole Top Stich
Defects of raw-edge in arm-hole top stitch are mainly caused by unskilled operators,
mal-adjustment between folder & fabric and defects in sleeve joints.
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
Figure 3-16: Pareto Chart with common defects in Collar Joint Top Stitch
Uneven allowance in Collar Joint Top Stich is mainly caused by inadequate lack of
skill and concentration by the operators and defects in Collar Joints.
Published in Dhaka University Journal of Management; Vol 5, Nos 1 & 2; Jan-Dec-2013
some operations (i.e. Front Placket, Main Label Attachment, Sleeve Placket, Sleeve
Joint operation), awareness needs to be build up among operators to be careful while
handling fabrics. Also training needs to be focused on some special skills like pattern
making, applying even tension while feeding fabric for stitching, accurate
adjustment of stitching guide etc.
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